Mother Jones

YEAST OF BURDEN

Instead of 9 million dairy cows, Americans might soon be milking billions of microscopic creatures.

WE SEEM TO HAVE come full circle on milk. First people began spurning cow’s milk in favor of soy, which they then swapped for almond or rice. Soon, baristas began touting hemp and coconut instead—nondairy milk sales have soared 30 percent since 2011. But the next trend for the beverage isn’t a plant-based alternative: It’s cow’s milk—with a twist. Though nearly identical to the stuff you grew up drinking, this milk is produced

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