On the Bayou
In this floating city, water soaks every aspect of daily life—from our car-insurance premiums to our music to our fears of the future—but you can go weeks without seeing it. The Mississippi River slouches behind the wharves that line most of New Orleans’ 12-mile length. The oceanic expanse of Lake Pontchartrain is available to anyone who clambers over the levee, but most New Orleanians rarely make it up there. You see
