Mark Carwardine's Guide To Whale Watching In Britain And Europe: Second Edition

breaching.

WHALES, DOLPHINS AND WHALE WATCHING

How to Watch Whales, Dolphins and Porpoises

In theory, it is possible to see whales, dolphins and porpoises almost anywhere in coastal Europe. They occur in the wilds of the High Arctic, in the warmest waters of the Mediterranean, within sight and sound of towns and cities, along shallow coastlines, in deep waters far out to sea and almost anywhere in between.

All cetaceans (the collective term for whales, dolphins and porpoises) have to come to the surface to breathe. They do so on and off all day and all night, though the amount of time they spend on the surface does vary depending on whether they are resting, socialising, feeding or travelling. So you might expect them to be relatively easy to find. But that’s not necessarily true – without some prior knowledge and research, not to mention a little luck, you could easily spend hours staring at an apparently empty sea. Many cetaceans live only in particular areas at certain times of the year and their distribution varies weekly, daily and even hourly, according to sea and weather conditions, food availability and many other factors.

Fortunately, this can work to your advantage. It means that to a degree you can predict where and when to look. Decide which species you would like to see, select the best country and research the peak time of year; then consider the precise location and even the exact time of day (a pod of dolphins might be well known for swimming past a particular beach at midday, for instance). There are other factors to take into account, too, such as tide times. Close to shore, Minke Whales, Bottlenose Dolphins and Harbour Porpoises, for example, all take advantage of fast-moving tidal currents to hunt their prey, which can make their local movements surprisingly predictable.

The trick is to do your homework. Increase your chances substantially by using this book to find out where to go, when to go and how to go about it.

Choosing a whale-watch operator

The simplest way to see cetaceans is provided by commercial whale-watching trips. Most have a pretty high success rate because they tend to concentrate on well-known cetacean populations, and are operated in the appropriate seasons. However, it can be difficult to choose an operator when there are so many organised trips on offer. How do you pick the right boat?

If you are unable to get a firm recommendation, there are a number of considerations. What is the boat like? Does it look well maintained? Is there plenty of deck space, with 360-degree views, so you will not miss anything? Does it have shelter from the sun, rain, wind and spray? Are there lavatory facilities on board (something you will appreciate more and more the longer the trip)? Bear in mind that small vessels offer a relatively intimate experience because they are shared with few people and you can get quite close to the animals, while large vessels tend to provide the most comfort and stability. What is the operator’s success rate at finding whales? It is a good sign if they offer a free return-trip guarantee if there are no sightings.

A Humpback Whale puts on an unforgettable show for whale watchers in the Azores.

There are a few more important considerations. First, does the boat have a naturalist on board? The best trips include knowledgeable naturalists who are skilled at finding the animals and provide interesting and informative commentaries to keep everyone well informed. Their knowledge can add tremendously to the experience.

Second, does the operator emphasise the fact that it adheres to local whale-watching regulations or guidelines? It is sometimes easy to forget that we are uninvited guests in the world of whales, dolphins and porpoises. We are privileged to see them and do not have a divine right. In fact, we have a responsibility to cause as little disturbance as possible – which is why whale watching should always be an eyes-on, hands-off activity.

Fortunately, many whale-watch operators care about the whales, and their guests, and do a good job. They are well versed in whale etiquette, abiding by local regulations or codes of conduct and putting the welfare of the animals before everything else. They take care not to disturb or injure them by manoeuvring their boats carefully, slowly and not too close, then leaving before the whales show signs of distress.

Some operators, however, are not so careful and cause a great deal of unnecessary stress. Not only are the animals forced to steer clear of boats, or possibly even to abandon their preferred feeding or breeding grounds, but collisions and other accidents can cause serious injury and even death.

The best whale-watch operators also put something back to benefit the whales. They help to raise money for whale conservation, for instance, or provide free places for biologists to do urgently needed research. The researchers help to find the whales, provide a running commentary and answer questions, in return for doing their own photo-ID research and collecting other valuable data; they also drum up public support for whale conservation. Running a dedicated research boat is beyond the budget of many research groups, so the arrangement benefits everyone.

Whale-watching code of conduct

Whether on their feeding or breeding grounds, or on migration, whales, dolphins and porpoises can all be sensitive to disturbance by intrusive whale watching and poor boat handling. In the worst cases they can be injured or even killed by propellers or collisions.

Some operators have formed their own associations to devise self-imposed codes of conduct, but most wait for researchers or conservation groups to suggest guidelines, or for governments to impose official regulations. Consequently, many parts of the world have no guidelines at all for whale watching, some have voluntary codes of conduct and a few have very strict regulations governed by law.

CAREFUL AND SENSITIVE WHALE WATCHING

There is no universally accepted ‘good practice’ for whale watching and the details will inevitably vary according to the location and species. Some existing regulations are quite lenient, for example allowing an approach to within 30 metres, while others are much stricter (no closer than 300 metres). In very broad terms, here is a simple code of conduct:

•Observe the animals carefully before approaching, to evaluate their behaviour and direction of travel.

•Approach from a position slightly to the rear and to one side.

•Never approach head-on, from immediately behind or from an angle of 90 degrees.

•Approach slowly (at a ‘no-wake’ speed) and continue along a parallel course.

•Do not go nearer than 100 metres (let the animals come to you if they want to).

•Avoid sudden changes in speed, direction or noise (avoid gear shifts and reversing, unless it is absolutely necessary to back away slowly).

•Avoid loud noises.

•Never pursue, overtake, head off or encircle the animals, or cause groups to separate.

•If the animals show avoidance behaviour, leave them alone.

•Exercise extreme caution if they are feeding, if there are calves present and around socially active groups.

•Never have more than three boats around a single whale or group of whales.

•Do not stay too long (20–30 minutes is a reasonable time, depending on circumstances, unless the animals choose to spend longer with you).

•If an animal approaches the boat (unless it is wake-riding or bow-riding, of course) keep the engine in neutral, especially if your propellers are unguarded.

•Avoid switching off the engine, especially if you are near large whales that are breaching, because it is important for them to know exactly where you are at all times.

•When leaving, move off slowly (at a ‘no-wake’ speed) until the boat is at least 300 metres away.

Signs of stress may include blowing bubbles underwater, lobtailing, irregular or uncharacteristic dive sequences, prolonged dives and obvious avoidance behaviour, though bear in mind that some of this behaviour occurs naturally as well.

Whatever you do, don’t be tempted to put pressure on the skipper to get closer and closer (and, finally, too close) to the whales. Careful and considerate whale watching is not only better for the whales; it is also better for the whale watchers. The probability of a close and prolonged encounter increases the more relaxed the animals are. Do not feel shy about complaining if you think the skipper is stressing the animals. Few places have ‘whale police’, so we must all help to make sure that whale watching is conducted responsibly, and that, if applicable, local guidelines are being followed.

Preparing for a whale-watch trip

What you will need for your trip obviously depends on where, when and how you intend to watch whales, but here are a few suggestions.

Seasickness remedies Seasickness patches (placed behind the ear), wrist-bands and tablets should be applied or taken at least an hour before the trip, if you have any doubts about suffering from seasickness. Be aware, however, that they may make you feel drowsy. If you’d rather not use medication, try eating ginger, which is a natural remedy for nausea; ginger ale containing real ginger can be effective. As an extra precaution, avoid excessive alcohol, caffeine, dairy products and rich, spicy or fatty foods. Stick to light meals: crackers, bread, rice, bananas and green apples are good. Try to find a seat, or stand, where you will experience the least motion (lower down, near the middle). Avoid sitting within smelling distance of engine fumes. Do not read, write or look at a laptop. Drink plenty of water to keep hydrated. Most of all spend as much time as possible on deck, out in the fresh air, looking towards the horizon to maintain your equilibrium. There is a lot of evidence that merely worrying about seasickness will increase your chances of feeling ill – so take these preventative measures, then forget all about mal de mer and concentrate on looking for whales. If you do succumb and feel really bad, lie down. But get up if there is a sighting: it is amazing how often a close encounter with whales or dolphins cures people of seasickness almost instantly.

Anti-sunburn aids Suntan lotion and a sun hat are essential to avoid sunburn and sun-stroke, especially around midday. Because you are more likely to burn at sea than you are on land, use a high-factor lotion.

Sunglasses Polaroid sunglasses help to reduce the sun’s glare and are excellent for seeing through reflections on the surface of the water, in order to view whales and dolphins underwater if they approach your boat. Remember to attach them to a safety cord so they don’t fall off when you’re leaning over the side.

Waterproof bags These are essential for keeping all your stuff dry (especially to protect binoculars, cameras and other equipment from salty spray).

Waterproof clothing A waterproof jacket and trousers are important if sea conditions are likely to be rough or if you are expecting rain (whale watching often involves getting wet). Spending a day, or even half a day, soaked through to the skin can ruin an entire trip.

Warm clothing Warm and windproof clothing is essential if you are whale watching in cold weather. Remember that it is often windier, and therefore much colder, at sea than it is on shore. Be careful not to underestimate how many layers you are likely to need. Even if it is T-shirt weather in the harbour, take plenty of warm clothes regardless (wear layers, which you can add or remove as necessary). Remember that if you have to stay inside the cabin just to keep warm, you won’t see much and you’ll be more prone to seasickness.

Work hard for more cetacean encounters.

Shoes Rubber-soled deck shoes are important in case the deck gets wet and slippery.

Writing aids A field notebook and pen are invaluable – keeping notes is a great help in improving your spotting and identification skills.

Field guides Identification guides are useful for identifying the cetaceans you encounter. Consider taking guides to the birds, seals, fish, and other local wildlife as well.

Binoculars These are crucial for finding cetaceans, as well as for identifying them, studying their behaviour and simply getting better views. Choose image-stabilised binoculars, or a normal pair with a magnification of 7–10x (anything higher will be difficult to hold sufficiently steady while you are rolling around on a boat at sea). Get a pair with a broad field of view, which enables you to scan a large area of sea at a time.

Telescope One with a tripod can be useful for whale watching from shore, or from the relatively stable platform on a large expedition cruise ship, but the high magnification makes it virtually unusable on smaller boats.

Cameras Camera equipment adds a whole new dimension to the whale-watching experience. Capturing photographs of cetaceans can be incredibly challenging and frustrating, but immensely satisfying when you get it right. It is possible to take good pictures with the simplest equipment, but if you’re going to take photography seriously use a DSLR camera with a variety of lenses (wide-angle, medium zoom such as a 70– 200mm or 80–200mm, and a longer zoom or telephoto lens up to about 400mm). Always shoot on motordrive – the more frames per second the greater your chances of getting that perfect shot.

Whale watchers on a commercial trip from Husavik, north Iceland, enjoy a close encounter with a Humpback Whale.

Hydrophone, or underwater microphone Few whale watchers carry hydrophones because they are quite expensive and can be tricky to use. To hear clearly the skipper will need to cut the engines, for a start, and may even need to switch off the generator. However, they can help to find some whales by sound, as well as adding a new and exciting dimension to the whale-watching experience.

Safety equipment This should be provided by all organised whale-watching trips. It might include life jackets, life rafts, flares, a VHF radio and first-aid equipment.

How to find whales, dolphins and porpoises

Now that you have chosen your whale-watch operator, are well prepared and have all the right gear, there is the small matter of finding the whales, dolphins and porpoises. Searching a vast, seemingly empty sea for signs of life can be quite daunting at first, especially when you do not know exactly what you are looking for. It is easy to lose your concentration, or to get disillusioned.

There is a lot of luck involved, of course, but equally there is no escaping the fact that people with more experience tend to have more cetacean encounters. They instinctively recognise all the tell-tale signs – the slightest clues that give away the presence of cetaceans – and their minds automatically flag up anything out of the ordinary.

With a large whale the first clue is often its blow or spout. This is more visible in some weather conditions than others, but it can be surprisingly distinctive. It may look like a flash of white (especially against a dark background), a smudge or a more gradual puff of smoke. Blows are easy to miss, however, especially since there is often a considerable gap between each one, and just a little wind can literally blow them away.

Alternatively, you may catch a glimpse of the head and back of a whale as it breaks the surface. This often resembles a strange wave that, somehow, does not look quite right. Anything suspicious, even if nine times out of ten it does turn out to be a wave, is worth investigating. Or, sometimes, your eye catches a brief glint of light, which could be the sun bouncing off the head or back of a whale as it surfaces. As soon as you notice anything unusual have a closer look with your binoculars.

Splashes are also good clues. They can be caused by a large whale breaching, flipper-slapping or lobtailing, or by dolphins. A group of dolphins in the distance frequently looks like a patch of rough water, resembling lots of whitecaps and little breaking waves.

The presence of seabirds can be another tell-tale sign, particularly if they seem to be feeding or are concentrated in one particular area. They can usually be seen from a great distance and it makes sense that if they have found a school of fish, there could be whales or dolphins feeding underneath.

When you are searching for cetaceans, get as high above sea level as possible by standing on the highest deck. The higher your vantage point, the further away the horizon, and the more you can see. Don’t forget to look everywhere – in front, behind and to both sides. Scan the horizon with binoculars and use the naked eye to check nearer the boat. While many cetacean encounters begin with distant sightings near the horizon, it is not uncommon for cetaceans to sneak up on boats and ships totally undetected. It is amazing how often people miss dolphins bow-riding right in front of them, or are suddenly surprised by a whale surfacing alongside, because they are too busy looking far out to sea.

Finally, whatever you do, do not stop looking. An occasional glance out to sea, followed by a cup of coffee and a chat, is unlikely to produce many sightings. Even the ride back to shore can be interrupted with unexpected encounters, so don’t give up until you are actually back in the harbour. Slowly scan the sea with binoculars… then do it again, and again and again. Keep searching the same area of water, even if you did not see anything the first time. There can be long gaps between surfacings (many species dive for several minutes and a few for more than an hour), and even a large whale can be surprisingly easy to miss.

The golden rule is to be patient. The more you look, the more you will see.

Look for flocks of seabirds in the distance – there may be whales and dolphins feeding underneath.

The Challenges of Identification

Identifying whales, dolphins and porpoises at sea can be enormously satisfying, but also quite challenging. In fact, it can be so difficult that even the world’s experts are unable to identify every species they encounter, and on most official surveys at least some sightings have to be logged as ‘unidentified’.

There are a number of problems in identification to overcome. The first, quite simply, is being on a boat: making detailed observations while trying to keep your balance on a rolling, slippery deck can be difficult at the best of times. Adverse sea and weather conditions, such as a heavy swell, whitecaps, high winds, driving rain or even glaring sunshine, add to the difficulties by making it almost impossible to get a good view and an accurate impression of the main features of the animal.

Then there are the whales, dolphins and porpoises themselves. They spend most of their lives underwater, and even when they come to the surface to breathe they frequently reveal little more than a brief glimpse of their dorsal fins and backs. Even a good view can be confusing, since many species look alike. It takes a trained eye to tell the difference between a Pygmy Sperm Whale and a Dwarf Sperm Whale, for example.

At the same time, individuals of the same species vary so much that they are rarely identical. Their dorsal fins are shaped differently, and they show variations in their colouring, behave differently and even occur in a range of sizes. Adult Bottlenose Dolphins, for example, vary in size from just under 2 metres to nearly 4 metres.

However, despite all the potential pitfalls, it is quite possible for anyone to recognise the relatively common and distinctive species, and eventually many of the more unusual ones as well. It just requires a little background knowledge and practice. It is worth it, because being able to tell one species from another is incredibly satisfying.

Key identification features

The easiest way to identify cetaceans is to use a relatively simple process of elimination. In the early 1990s, while researching and writing one of the first cetacean field guides, the artist Martin Camm and I spent a huge amount of time in the field and meeting with cetacean experts all over the world, specifically to develop a workable identification technique. We came up with a mental checklist of 14 key features to run through every time a new animal is encountered at sea. It is not often possible to use all these features together, and one alone is rarely enough for a positive identification. The best approach is to gather information on as many features as possible before drawing any firm conclusions.

1. Geographical location There is not a single place in the world where all 93 cetacean species have been recorded. In fact, there are not many places with records of more than a few dozen species. This immediately helps to cut down on the number of possibilities. You are highly unlikely to see a Pacific White-sided Dolphin in Europe, for example, because it occurs only in the North Pacific; but you could well see an Atlantic White-sided Dolphin, which occurs in the North Atlantic. (Do bear in mind, however, that cetaceans have a habit of turning up in the most unlikely places – a classic example being the Grey Whale that turned up off the coast of Israel in May 2010.)

2. Habitat Just as Cheetahs live on open plains rather than in jungles, and Snow Leopards prefer mountains to wetlands, most cetaceans are adapted to specific marine or freshwater habitats. For example, Harbour Porpoises are less likely to be encountered far out to sea, while Sperm Whales are unlikely to be seen in shallow water close to shore. In this respect, marine charts can be surprisingly useful identification aids. Knowing the underwater topography could help you to tell the difference between a Minke Whale (normally found over the continental shelf) and a superficially similar Northern Bottlenose Whale (more likely to be encountered in deep waters offshore).

One of the easiest cetaceans to identify: a Beluga.

3. Size It is difficult to estimate size accurately at sea, unless a direct comparison can be made with the length of the boat, a passing bird or an object in the water. Moreover, remember that only a small portion of the animal (the top of the head and back, for example) may be visible at any one time. Larger species don’t necessarily show more of themselves than smaller species, so size can be quite deceptive. Therefore it is better to use three simple size categories: up to 3 metres, 4–10 metres and more than 10 metres. In this way, simply by deciding whether an animal is small, medium or large helps to eliminate a wide range of possibilities. Practise judging distances at sea, because this will make it easier to judge the size of a cetacean. You need to take distance into account: the further away the animal is, the smaller it appears. Start by estimating how far away the horizon is. This depends on the height of your eyes above the sea (you can see further if you’re higher up). As a rough guide, if you are standing on a deck 5 metres above the sea the horizon is about 8 kilometres away, and if you are 15 metres above the sea it is about 14 kilometres away.

4. Unusual features Some cetaceans have very unusual features, which can be used for a quick identification. These include the extraordinary long tusk of the male Narwhal, the enormous dorsal fin of the male Orca and the wrinkly skin of Sperm Whales.

5. Dorsal fin The size, shape and position of the dorsal fin varies greatly between species and is a particularly useful aid to identification. Some fins are tall and triangular, others are rounded, a few are little more than a hump, some have broad bases, others have narrow bases, some are curved, others are upright, and there is every possible combination in between; and, of course, a few species have no dorsal fin at all. The relative size of the fin and its position on the animal’s back – in the middle, towards the head or towards the tail – is also a useful identification feature. Also do not forget to look for any distinctive colours or markings on the fin.

6. Flippers The length, colour and shape of the flippers, as well as their position on the animal’s body, vary greatly from one species to another. They range from small and narrow to large and spatulate. It is not always possible to see them, but flippers can be useful for identification in some species. In the Humpback Whale, for example, they are unmistakable.

7. Body shape Much of the time, cetaceans do not show enough of themselves to provide an overall impression of their shape. Sometimes, however, this can be a useful feature. They occur in many shapes, from long and slim, to short and stocky. The shape of the melon (forehead) can also be a good identification feature.

8. Beak The presence or absence of a prominent beak is a particularly useful identification feature in toothed whales. Broadly speaking, river dolphins, beaked whales and half the oceanic dolphins have prominent beaks, while porpoises, Belugas and Narwhals, Orcas and their allies, Sperm Whales and the remaining oceanic dolphins do not. There is also great variation in the beak length from one species to another. Try to see if there is a smooth transition from the top of the head to the end of the snout (as in Rough-toothed Dolphins, for example) or a distinct crease (as in Atlantic Spotted Dolphins).

9. Colour and markings Many cetaceans are surprisingly colourful, and have distinctive markings such as body stripes or eye-patches. Fin Whales have creamy-white ‘chevrons’, for example, while Risso’s Dolphins are usually covered in white scratches and scars. Unfortunately, more subtle markings can be difficult to use for identification purposes, because colours at sea vary according to water clarity and light conditions. Also, bear in mind that an animal can appear much darker than normal if it is viewed against the sun.

10. Flukes The flukes can be important features for identifying larger whales. Some species lift their flukes high into the air before they dive, while others do not, and that alone can help to tell one from another. Minke and Sei Whales generally do not, for example, while Humpback and Sperm Whales frequently do. It is also worth checking the shapes of the flukes, looking for any distinctive markings and noticing whether