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    Let's Go London, Oxford & Cambridge: The Student Travel Guide
    Let's Go London, Oxford & Cambridge: The Student Travel Guide
    Let's Go London, Oxford & Cambridge: The Student Travel Guide
    Ebook444 pages2 hours

    Let's Go London, Oxford & Cambridge: The Student Travel Guide

    By Harvard Student Agencies, Inc.

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    About this ebook

    Welcome to London, Oxford, and CambridgeLet’s Go style. Discover some of the best-kept culinary secrets in London’s West End. Pay a visit to Oxford, whose halls have churned out the likes of WH Auden and Albert Einstein, or Emma Thompson’s alma mater, Cambridge, where the studentnot the touristis king. Whether you’re visiting for a summer or a semester, there’s time to take in all the coolest theaters, galleries, and most spectacular historical landmarksand without breaking the bank.

    Let's Go publishes the world's favorite student travel guides, written entirely by Harvard undergraduates. Armed with pens, notebooks, and a few changes of underwear stuffed in their backpacks, our student researchers go across continents, through time zones, and above expectations to seek out invaluable travel experiences for our readers. Let's Go has been on the road for 50 years and counting: We're on a mission to provide our readers with sharp, fresh coverage packed with socially responsible opportunities to go beyond tourism.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherLet's Go
    Release dateApr 30, 2013
    ISBN9781598809114
    Let's Go London, Oxford & Cambridge: The Student Travel Guide

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      Book preview

      Let's Go London, Oxford & Cambridge - Harvard Student Agencies, Inc.

      DISCOVER LONDON, OXFORD & CAMBRIDGE

      When To Go
      What To Do

      ANORAK ATTACK

      STEEPLECHASE

      BRAVO, BRITAIN

      BEYOND TOURISM

      Suggested Itineraries

      BEST OF LONDON, OXFORD, AND CAMBRIDGE (2 WEEKS)

      THE BEST OF THE OUTDOORS (4 DAYS)

      CAMPUS CRASHING: OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE (2 DAYS)

      How To Use This Book

      CHAPTERS

      LISTINGS

      ICONS

      OTHER USEFUL STUFF

      PRICE DIVERSITY

      MAP LEGEND

      Rain? Pish posh. What’s a light drizzle when you’re a romantic and abroad? It’s fuel for the fire, that’s what it is. Raindrops fall upon the streets in time with Big Ben’s chime and quench Oxford and Cambridge’s thirsty greenery. It’s said that the people of England are the most enthusiastic in the world, and how could they not be? Galvanized by the pulsating murmur of their cultural metropolises, it’s a wonder the British are able to contain themselves enough to fit into those restricting, red phone booths. So much more than what meets the (London) eye, London, Oxford, and Cambridge offer a place to love, actually.

      when to go

      There is really no wrong time to go to London, Oxford, and Cambridge. Tourists take this to heart, with a steady flow of travelers making their way across the region year-round. That said, the high season here tends to be from June through August, and the low seasons are in the spring and fall. While flights will often be cheaper during the low season, be warned that sights and accommodations may have reduced hours during these times of the year.

      While you are in London, Oxford, and Cambridge it will rain—it is practically unavoidable, no matter the time of year. But that shouldn’t deter you; despite the droplets, the weather is actually quite mild. Extreme weather is so uncommon, in fact, that the slightest bit of snow warrants snow angels from enthusiastic university students and older gents pretending to be young again. And in the spring you can expect daffodils galore. So frolic away, but pack your galoshes, just in case.

      what to do

      ANORAK ATTACK

      Nerd alert, nerd alert. We say that with nothing but love and affection, of course. Admit it, one of the reasons you’re visiting Britain is to hit up its literary and academic hotspots. So while the British (or the jaded) may point to you as an anorak (British slang for an enthusiastic geek of sorts), we tip our hats to you. In fact, we give a big thumbs up to the following literary treasures.

      •  MISERABLE ORPHANS: Make pit stops at London landmarks like Bernard’s Inn and Newgate Prison, famously featured in Charles Dickens’s novels of the gritty city.

      •  MAGICAL ORPHANS: Harry Potter enthusiasts flock to such London sights as Leadenhall Market, the Boa Constrictor tank at London Zoo, and Platform 9¾ at King’s Cross Station (you know, for when you’re out of Floo Powder).

      •  BILLY SHAKES: Hit up a performance at Shakespeare’s Globe (click here) in London, and you might be lucky enough to get a pre-show serenade.

      •  WHO’S AFRAID?: Meander through Bloomsbury (click here) in London where Woolf and her Modernist cohorts shot the intellectual breeze.

      •  NOTABLE AND QUOTABLE OXONIANS: Eleven of Britain’s poet laureates studied at Oxford. Among the university’s literary luminaries are John Donne (Hertford), Richard Lovelace (Merton), Percy Bysshe Shelley (University), TS Eliot (Merton), WH Auden (Christ Church), Oscar Wilde (Magdalen), Aldous Huxley (Balliol), and Dr. Seuss.

      •  ALES AND TALES: Oxford alums JRR Tolkien and CS Lewis contrived wizards and wardrobes over pints at The Eagle and Child (click here).

      •  POETIC CANTABRIGIAN PUPILS: Drop by the alma maters of Cambridge’s particularly well-versed graduates including Edmund Spenser (Pembroke), Christopher Marlowe (Corpus Christi), John Milton (Christ’s), William Wordsworth (St. John’s), Samuel Taylor Coleridge (Jesus), Sylvia Plath (Newnham), and Ted Hughes (Pembroke).

      •  METHODICAL CANTABRIGIAN PUPILS: Evolutionary revolutionary Charles Darwin (Christ’s) is a Cambridge alum, along with Sir Isaac Newton (Trinity), James Watson (Clare) and Francis Crick (Caius), who announced the discovery of DNA at the Eagle pub (click here).

      •  DEEP IN THE HUNDRED ACRE WOOD: At Cambridge University, visit Trinity’s Wren Library (click here), which houses handwritten copies of AA Milne’s Winnie the Pooh books.

      student superlatives

      •  BEST PLACE FOR MONK-Y BUSINESS: Westminster Abbey (click here).

      •  BEST PLACE TO GET AN ARSE-ACHE: Shakespeare’s Globe (click here).

      •  BEST WAY TO REPLACE YOUR STAIRMASTER: Climbing to the dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral (click here).

      •  BEST PLACE TO GET YOUR STICK STUCK IN THE MUD: The River Thames at Oxford or the River Cam at Cambridge (click here).

      •  BEST PLACE TO SMELL THE FLOWERS: Oxford Botanic Garden (click here).

      •  BEST PLACE TO GET ROW-DY: The Boat Race between Oxford and Cambridge.

      STEEPLECHASE

      From jockeys to altar boys, Seabiscuit to communion, placing bets to giving alms (the odds of the latter resulting in good fortune equal to the odds of the former), the British certainly can’t get enough of two things: horse racing and churches. The two have nothing in common, you say? Check the headwear, my friend. The British love them some silly hats.

      •  IT’S ST. PAUL OUT OF THE GATE: There is no way that Christopher Wren was sent to the glue factory after designing St. Paul’s Cathedral (click here). Brilliantly ornate, with a dome that can be seen throughout London, this church wins by more than a nose.

      •  WITH CHRIST CHURCH COMING UP ALONG THE INSIDE: Christ Church Chapel (click here) requires a photo finish not because its awesomeness is uncertain, but precisely the opposite. This Oxford cathedral’s roles are neck and neck—it’s both a cathedral and a college chapel.

      •  BUT HERE COMES GREAT ST. MARY’S UP THE BACK STRETCH: As the tallest in its class at Cambridge, Great St. Mary’s Church wouldn’t make a very good jockey. But its bells can mark the start of your race up the stairs. And they’re off!

      •  COMING DOWN TO A PHOTO FINISH: Saddle up for the annual Royal Ascot horse race, a train ride or 1hr. drive from London. Dress code depends upon where you’re sitting for the events. Want to come looking like a frump? Neigh!

      BRAVO, BRITAIN

      London is known for vibrant, sparkling theater. Pardon—theatre. And who ever said thespians couldn’t be studious? Oxford and Cambridge also feature hip performing arts scenes, perfect for the theater- and music-hungry traveler.

      •  GO WEST, YOUNG MAN: From Billy Shakespeare to Billy Elliot, you’re bound to find a show that tickles your fancy in London’s West End, where the bustling theater community rivals that of Broadway.

      •  ’TIL THE FAT LADY SINGS: Classical music aficionados flock to the London Coliseum (click here), home of the English National Opera, and the Royal Opera (click here) in Covent Garden.

      •  ALL THAT JAZZ: Head to Jazz Cafe (click here) in London’s Camden Town for some quality crooning.

      •  UNDERGROUND SOUND: Pry yourself away from the library (yeah, right), for a pit stop at Oxford’s The Cellar, a basement venue with rock, indie, and electro-themed nights (click here).

      •  GRADUATES AND PRIMA DONNAS: Oxford’s Romanesque Sheldonian Theatre (click here) houses student recitals, graduation ceremonies, and top-shelf opera performances.

      •  BARDY PARTY: The Cambridge Shakespeare Festival takes place every year throughout July and August and features several plays by the Bard himself.

      less than tuppence a bag

      •  SAATCHI ART GALLERY: Not only is this art fine, it’s free. Admire the collection without spending a cent (click here).

      •  THE REGENT’S PARK: Frolic among the pigeons and locals in these flower-filled 50 acres. Nothing like a little free fresh air and the sweet aroma of the Sexy Rexy (click here).

      •  THE NATIONAL GALLERY: Leave your wallet in your pocket: no need to lose any pounds to see this impressive sight. Spend hours awe-struck by the monstrous collection (click here).

      •  ALL SOULS COLLEGE: Find yourself wandering the Great Quad without coughing up a dime (click here).

      •  SCOTT POLAR RESEARCH INSTITUTE: You don’t need to pay a thing, much less be a polar explorer, to enjoy this expedition-inspired museum (click here).

      BEYOND TOURISM

      Those craving an international adventure that involves more than just sightseeing ought to explore the study, work, and volunteer opportunities available in London, Oxford, and Cambridge. Especially in Anglophone countries, it’s possible to dive into academic and professional programs headfirst and get a full immersion experience.

      •  STUDY ABROAD: Whether you’re a Shakespearean or a biologist, you’re bound to find a titillating program at one of London, Oxford, or Cambridge’s premier universities. Get your econ on at LSE (click here), or be supervised in one of Cambridge’s (click here) small tutorials.

      •  VOLUNTEER ABROAD: If you’d rather get in touch with your philanthropic side, fear not. There are countless possibilities from offering urban families financial advice to creating sustainability projects (see Volunteering, click here).

      •  WORK ABROAD: If you want to rake in any kind of dough during your time abroad, you should plan ahead. With the right qualifications you might wind up teaching your subject of choice at a British grammar school or working an au pair for a British family.

      suggested itineraries

      BEST OF LONDON, OXFORD, AND CAMBRIDGE (2 WEEKS)

      LONDON (1 WEEK). First, be inspired to belt out a riveting rendition of God Save the Queen at Buckingham Palace. At Westminster Abbey, pay homage to Tennyson, Dickens, and Hardy in the Poet’s Corner. While you’re in the neighborhood, take a gander at the Houses of Parliament, where all those guys in wigs make important decisions. Straddle a lion in Trafalgar Square. Then visit the Impressionist exhibit in the National Gallery. Marvel at St. Paul’s Cathedral, Wren’s domed marble masterpiece. Next, trek over to Bloomsbury and The British Museum, where the Rosetta Stone isn’t even the climax. Enjoy an interactive medieval experience at the Tower of London.

      OXFORD (4 DAYS). Hit up each of the colleges oozing with history—from Christ’s Church to Queen’s to Trinity. But don’t be sheisty, or the bulldogs will getcha. If they reprimand you, book it to Oxford Castle. Castle? Prison? Restaurant, theater, and luxury hotel complex? Yes, yes, yes, yes, and yes. If you’re feeling studious and whimsical, skip on over to the Bodleian Library, the best place to go down the rabbit hole.

      CAMBRIDGE (3 DAYS). The colleges are surprisingly identical to those of Oxford, but with their own pasts to brag about, including Henry VI, Henry VIII, and Winnie the Pooh. The second oldest building in Cambridge, Round Church outdates even the university. Meanwhile, Great Saint Mary’s Church provides awesome views of the city, but pray that its 12 bells don’t ring while you’re schlepping up the 123 spiral steps.

      THE BEST OF THE OUTDOORS (4 DAYS)

      While fully embracing the beer gardens and Octopus’s Garden, few travelers take advantage of the green space and open air that London, Oxford, and Cambridge have to offer. So put down the pint, get out of the middle of Abbey Road, and go embrace nature.

      LONDON (2 DAYS). Take the Tube to northern London and head to Hampstead Heath, the best place for simultaneously frolicking on the hills and spotting celebs. Closer to the center of London, in the posh part of town (and certainly not without their spice), are Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens. Hear proselytizers and politicos at Speaker’s Corner and visit the iconic Peter Pan statue. Do you believe in fairies? Yes! Clap, clap. Finally, Regent’s Park is the perfect place for prim and proper dallying. Don’t miss Queen Mary’s Gardens or Primrose Hill. The famous Open Air Theatre hosts Shakespearean productions May-September.

      OXFORD (1 DAY). Take a good whiff of the university botanic garden. Then, gambol along the path connecting the garden to Christ Church Meadow and catch a glimpse of the Thames and the cricket grounds on the opposite bank. Take to the water and go punting on the Thames. It’s like the British version of a gondola.

      CAMBRIDGE (1 DAY). With over 8000 plant species, Cambridge University’s botanic garden offers the best kind of aroma therapy. After a jaunt in the garden, get your poles ready for action and go punting on the Cam. If you’re here the third week in June, screw the library and head to the Midsummer Fair.

      CAMPUS CRASHING: OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE (2 DAYS)

      OXFORD. 9am: Start the day with a bit of reflection at University Church of Saint Mary the Virgin. 10am: Dawdle through Christ Church Meadow. Noon: Grab a fresh bite to eat at Gloucester Green Market. 3pm: Go punting on the River Cam. 5pm: Hit the books in Bodleian Library. 7pm: Satisfy your appetite (no need to analyze—we’re talking dinner) at Freud, an interesting combination club, bar, cafe, and art gallery. 8pm: Grab a pint at Purple Turtle Union Bar. 9:05pm: Head to Tom’s Quad to hear the 7-ton bell, Big Tom, toll 101 times. Then dabble in a little lily-pond dunking.

      CAMBRIDGE. 9:30am: Take a moment to meditate in King’s College Chapel. 10am: At Trinity College, walk through Nevile’s Court and sit by the fountain—but we don’t advise you bathe nude, even if it was a favorite pastime of Lord Byron. Noon: Munch on lunch at The Regal, the largest pub in the UK. 3pm: Go punting on the River Thames. 5pm: Get your study on at The Wren Library. 7pm: If you’re willing to splurge a bit, grab some grub at CB2. 8pm: Join your fellow pupils for a pint at The Maypole, where students gather for late nights and great fun.

      how to use this book

      CHAPTERS

      In the next few pages, the travel coverage chapters—the meat of any Let’s Go book—we begin with London. After a visit to Big Ben and romp through Hampstead Heath, we venture to Oxford and Cambridge, the world’s most famous college towns.

      But that’s not all, folks. We also have a few extra chapters for you to peruse:

      LISTINGS

      Listings—a.k.a. reviews of individual establishments—constitute a majority of Let’s Go coverage. Our Researcher-Writers list establishments in order from best to worst value—not necessarily quality. (Obviously a five-star hotel is nicer than a hostel, but it would probably be ranked lower because it’s not as good a value.) Listings pack in a lot of information, but it’s easy to digest if you know how they’re constructed:

      ESTABLISHMENT NAME

      type of establishment $$$$

      Address

      phone number website

      Editorial review goes here.

      Directions to the establishment.

      Other practical information about the establishment, like age restrictions at a club or whether breakfast is included at a hostel.

      Prices for goods or services.

      Hours or schedules.

      ICONS

      First things first: places and things that we absolutely love, sappily cherish, generally obsess over, and wholeheartedly endorse are denoted by the all-empowering Let’s Go thumbs-up. In addition, the icons scattered at the end of a listing (as you saw in the sample above) can serve as visual cues to help you navigate each listing:

      OTHER USEFUL STUFF

      Area codes for each destination appear opposite the name of the city and are denoted by the icon.

      PRICE DIVERSITY

      A final set of icons corresponds to what we call our price diversity scale, which approximates how much money you can expect to spend at a given establishment. For accommodations, we base our range on the cheapest price for which a single traveler can stay for one night. For food, we estimate the average amount one traveler will spend in one sitting. The table below tells you what you’ll typically find at the corresponding price range, but keep in mind that no scale can allow for the quirks of all individual establishments.

      MAP LEGEND

      You’ll notice that our maps have lots of crazy symbols. Here’s how to decode them.

      LONDON

      Orientation

      THE CITY OF LONDON

      THE WEST END

      WESTMINSTER

      THE SOUTH BANK

      SOUTH KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA

      HYDE PARK TO NOTTING HILL

      MARYLEBONE AND BLOOMSBURY

      NORTH LONDON

      EAST LONDON

      SOUTH LONDON

      WEST LONDON

      Accommodations

      THE CITY OF LONDON

      THE WEST END

      WESTMINSTER

      THE SOUTH BANK

      SOUTH KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA

      HYDE PARK TO NOTTING HILL

      MARYLEBONE AND BLOOMSBURY

      NORTH LONDON

      EAST LONDON

      SOUTH LONDON

      WEST LONDON

      Sights

      THE CITY OF LONDON

      THE WEST END

      WESTMINSTER

      THE SOUTH BANK

      SOUTH KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA

      HYDE PARK TO NOTTING HILL

      MARYLEBONE AND BLOOMSBURY

      NORTH LONDON

      EAST LONDON

      SOUTH LONDON

      WEST LONDON

      Food

      THE CITY OF LONDON

      THE WEST END

      WESTMINSTER

      THE SOUTH BANK

      SOUTH KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA

      HYDE PARK TO NOTTING HILL

      MARYLEBONE AND BLOOMSBURY

      NORTH LONDON

      EAST LONDON

      SOUTH LONDON

      WEST LONDON

      Nightlife

      THE CITY OF LONDON

      THE WEST END

      WESTMINSTER

      THE SOUTH BANK

      SOUTH KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA

      HYDE PARK TO NOTTING HILL

      MARYLEBONE AND BLOOMSBURY

      NORTH LONDON

      EAST LONDON

      SOUTH LONDON

      WEST LONDON

      Arts And Culture

      THEATER

      CINEMA

      COMEDY

      DANCE

      POP AND ROCK

      CLASSICAL MUSIC

      JAZZ

      FESTIVALS

      Shopping

      BOOKSTORES

      ART

      MUSIC

      MARKETS

      DEPARTMENT STORES

      Essentials

      PRACTICALITIES

      EMERGENCY

      GETTING THERE

      GETTING AROUND

      Most people have a well-defined idea of London: staid tradition, afternoon tea, stuffy Englishmen with cultured accents, heavy ales, and winding lanes—all of it decorated in styles that were popular back when high foreheads were also fashionable. People with this notion of London can easily complete their vacation in 3min. by working their way to the bank of the Thames and staring pointedly at the gilded heights of Big Ben, but to employ this tactic is to miss the true charm of the foggy city.

      Despite London’s weighty history and culture, the city today is not all ghost tours, beefeaters, and double-decker buses. In London, there’s always an underground scene to be found, and a modern pulse beats behind every beautiful old surface.

      History is written on the face of every Blitz-scarred building, but take the time to wander and talk to the people inside them. Immerse yourself in the culture, especially if you’re from a superficially similar English-speaking country; the difference will only be more poignant when you realize it. Now, finish your pint and Let’s Go.

      greatest hits

      •  ALL THE KING’S MEN. Visit the tombs of English kings going back to Edward the Confessor at Westminster Abbey, and don’t forget to stop by Dickens, Chaucer, Darwin, and Newton (click here).

      •  FRIDAY I’M IN LOVE. Hit up The Borderline club in the West End to get your Joy Division, Smiths, and Cure fix (click here).

      •  PLEASE, SIR, I WANT SOME MORE. Sample classic British pies and inventive twists on the same at Pie Minister (click here).

      •  BE A GROUNDLING. Make a pilgrimage to Shakespeare’s Globe before making all London your stage (click here).

      student life

      Face it: over the past few centuries, Parliament’s lost its funk. To experience the best of London’s student life, head to Bloomsbury, home to University College London and countless backpackers looking for cheap accommodations. Bloomsbury has some of the best ethnic restaurants and one of the most vibrant bar scenes in the city, to boot, so study-abroaders can satisfy their wanderlust without leaving the ‘hood. Other student hotspots can be found in London’s cheaper outer neighborhoods, such as Camden in the north and the dodgier neighborhoods of east London, particularly around hipster-nightlife-rich Shoreditch and Old Street and curry-filled Brick Lane.

      orientation

      To say that London is a sizeable city is to adopt the infamous British tendency for understatement. London is bloody massive. The central knot of museums, historical sights, shopping, and entertainment stretches along the Thames from the City of London (yes, a city within a city) through the West End to Westminster. The luxurious residential neighborhoods of Chelsea, Kensington, Notting Hill, and Marylebone lie to the north and west. Add in the university neighborhood of Bloomsbury and the culturally prominent South Bank and you’ve got the whole of central London in a nice package.

      Now for the fun bits. With sky-high rents in the city center, the beating heart of city life has migrated a few miles out from the center. North London is the most upscale, East London is home to the city’s hip and artsy, and South and West London are defined by their large immigrant communities (and great ethnic cuisine).

      Navigating the sprawl of London can be incredibly frustrating. Fortunately, the ever-obliging Brits plaster the city center with maps, which can be found reliably at bus stops. If you don’t want to leave your direction to chance, you can always shell out for the all-knowing A-Z city map.

      THE CITY OF LONDON

      One of the oldest and most historic parts of London, the City of London, often referred to as the City, is home to many of London’s finest (and most crowded) tourist attractions as well as the city’s financial center. The City holds many

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