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DINING REVIEW
Holstein s breadcrumbed veal tenderloin topped with a sunny side up egg, herb butter, capers and anchovies served with spatzli. Photos by Tom McCarthy Jr.
hen people drive up to Vero from Miami just to visit a favorite restaurant, youd have to guess it must be mighty good. And you would be guessing right in the case of the Melody Inn, an attractive Old Europe restaurant located off the quaint Seminole Courtyard in downtown Vero. Since relocating here in 2004 from Coral Gables, where it had been serving classic French Swiss dishes for a quarter of a century, the Melody Inn has only gotten better and over the years, a number of its South Florida fans have made the trek north for a nostalgic dinner. For beachside residents, its much easier to pay a visit, as we most recently did on a Thursday evening in early December. For starters on this visit, my husband went with a long-time favorite, the escargots bourguignon ($8.75), while I enjoyed the evenings special salad and our companion had Margarets Young Spinach Salad ($7.75). The Melody Inns escargots are a
classic rendition of this dish, flambed with cognac, baked in herbwine butter, served out of the shell, tender, and well-seasoned with garlic. You will enjoy mopping every last drop out of the escargot crockery. The special salad, as one might expect, was extremely tasty, and Margarets Young Spinach Salad is a delicious light salad with poppy seed dressing, bacon, currants (tiny black seedless grapes), and sliced onions. We were also glad to see that a special entre which we had sampled on a previous visit appears to have won a regular spot. This dish, also served in baby escargot crockery, consists of small mushroom caps, each of which holds
a nice chunk of Florida lobster, baked with a seasoned cream cheese topping sprinkled with parmesan. A very rich and very tasty combination. For entrees on this visit, I ordered the veal filet medallion with morels ($30.75). My husband had one of the evenings specials, a filet mignon au poivre. Our companion had the breast of chicken Caprino ($19.75). The veal medallions were pan sauted in butter and topped with a morel mushroom flamb with Cognac in a Champagne sauce. It doesnt get any better than this. The filet (two filets, actually) was perfectly prepared medium rare and served in a delicious au poivre sauce. The chicken Caprino, broiled chicken breast that then is baked with sundried tomatoes and goat cheese with a white wine butter sauce, also got raves. All entrees come with a choice of vegetables. These include rosti potatoes, spatzli, red cabbage, and cold beets prepared in a vinaigrette. The beets alone are worth the trip. For main courses on previous