TYPES OF TEST

 The Non technical Test

 FEELING TEST
 BURNING TESTS

 The Technical Test

 MICROSCOPIC TEST
 CHEMICAL TEST
Tests for identification

 Handle/Feel Test
 Visual Examination
 Burning test
 Twist on Drying
 Floatation Test
 Microscopic analysis
 Chemical Analysis
Requirements for tests:

Preparation of test specimen

Apparatus for microscopic examination
Reagents used for chemical tests
Other tools and equipment
THE NON-TECHNICAL TESTS
 Feelingtest
 Burning test
FEELING TEST
 The feeling test requires perception if
it is to be of any value.
 Skilled perception is acquired only
after handling many different fabrics
over a period of time.
 Limitations of this test become
apparent when examining and
comparing fabrics of different fiber
content.
BURNING TEST

To recognize the composition of fabrics by

the burning test ,the sample of fibre, yarn of
fabric should be moved slowly towards a
small flame and the reaction to heat
carefully observed .One end of the sample
should be put directly into flame to
determine its burning rate and
characteristics. The burning odour should be
noted and the characteristics of the ash
such as amount ,form, hardness and colour
should be examined.
IDENTIFICATION OF FIBRES THROUGH BURNING
TEST

Cotton
When ignited it burns with a steady flame
and smells like burning leaves. The ash left
is easily crumbled. Small samples of burning
cotton can be blown out as you would a
candle.
Linen
Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabric
closest to the ash is very brittle. Linen is
easily extinguished by blowing on it as you
would a candle.
Silk
It is a protein fibre and usually burns readily,
not necessarily with a steady flame, and
smells like burning hair. The ash is easily
crumbled. Silk samples are not as easily
extinguished as cotton or linen.
Wool
It is also a protein fibre but is harder to
ignite than silk as the individual "hair" fibres
are shorter than silk and the weave of the
fabrics is generally looser than with silk. The
flame is steady but more difficult to keep
burning. The smell of burning wool is like
burning hair.
Man Made Fibres
Acetate
Acetate burns readily with a flickering flame
that cannot be easily extinguished. The
burning cellulose drips and leaves a hard
ash. The smell is similar to burning wood
chips.
Acrylic
Acrylics burn readily due to the fibre content
and the lofty, air filled pockets. A match
dropped on an acrylic blanket can ignite the
fabric which will burn rapidly unless
extinguished. The ash is hard. The smell is
acrid or harsh.
Nylon
Nylon melts and then burns rapidly if the
flame remains on the melted fibre. If you
can keep the flame on the melting nylon, it
smells like burning plastic.
Polyester
Polyester melts and burns at the same time,
the melting, burning ash can bond quickly to
any surface it drips on including skin. The
smoke from polyester is black with a
sweetish smell. The extinguished ash is
Rayon
It is a regenerated cellulose fibre which
is almost pure cellulose. Rayon burns
rapidly and leaves only a slight ash.
The burning smell is close to burning
leaves.
LIMITATION OF BURNING TEST
 Itis apparent that many fibers have
similar burning reactions that might
cause doubt and occasional
confusion.
TECHNICAL TESTS
There are certain technical tests performed
for identifying various fibers. These tests req
uire high technology laboratory equipment a
nd are much more reliable than the non tech
nical fibre tests.
Technicals tests require high skilled personn
el and technical know how of handling chemi
cals and their accurate analysis. These tests
are very valuable for those fabrics that are a
blend of different yarns and also have certai
n special properties including flame retardan
ce etc.
TYPES OF TECHNICAL TEST
 Microscopictest
 Chemical test
MICROSCOPIC TEST
 Microscopic test is a technical test that involves
identifying the fabric with the help of a microscop
e with a magnification of minimum 100 power.
 The test can easily distinguish between fibers.
 The test identifies the natural fibers more easily
as compared to man made ones.
 Synthetic fibers are very similar in appearance
and the increase in the number of varieties, make
s it a little tough to distinguish the fibers even un
der a microscope.
MICROSCOPIC TEST FOR NATURAL
FIBERS
COTTON:
 It is a single elongated cell.
Under the microscope, it
resembles a collapsed,
spirally twisted tube with a
rough surface.
 The thin cell wall of the fiber
has from 200 to 400
convolutions per inch.

LINEN:
 Under the microscope, the
hair like flax fiber shows
several sided cylindrical
filaments with fine pointed
ends.
 The fiber somewhat
WOOL:
 Under the microscope , wool’s
cross section shows three
layers- epidermis, cortex and
the medulla.
SILK:
 It appears somewhat elliptical
and triangular in cross section
when we see under the
microscope.
 It is composed of fibroin,
consisting of two filaments,
called brin which is held
together by sericin.
MICROSCOPIC TEST FOR MANMADE
FIBERS
RAYONS:
 Rayon fibers have a
glasslike luster under the
microscope and appear to
have a uniform diameter
when viewed
longitudinally.

ACETATE:
 The cross sectional view
has a bulbous or multilobal
appearance with
indentations.
 These indentations appear
as occasional markings or
NYLON:
 The basic microscopic
appearance is generally fine ,
round, smooth, and
translucent.
 It is also produced in
multilobal cross-sectional
types.

POLYESTERS:
 Generally, polyester fibers are
smooth and straight and the
cross-section is round.
 This general characteristics
may be altered to achieve
 ACRYLICS: The methods of manufacturing of the
acrylic fibres differ, the appearances vary
accordingly.
 ACRILAN ACRYLIC: It has a bean-shaped cross
section, its longitudinal appearance is straight
and smooth.
 ORLON ACRYLIC: It has a flat, nut-shaped cross
section.
 CRESLAN ACRYLIC: It has an almost round cross
section.
 MOD ACRYLICS: it is of two types verel modacrylic
and SEF modacrylic
 SPANDEX: Spandex fibers are unique in
appearance, they appear to be groups of fibers
fused together.

 GLASS: The fiber is smooth, round, translucent,

highly lustrous, and quite flexible.

 Asbestos fibre
CHEMICAL TESTS
 Chemical tests are another technical means of
identifying fibers. But chemical tests are not
intended for the general consumers.
 Different types of chemical tests are undertaken
to establish the identity of the fibers used.
 These tests give accurate and precise analysis.
 The tests are conducted in research laboratories.
TYPES OF CHEMICAL TEST
Stain Test:
Also known as the Double Barrel Fibre Identification
(DBFI), the test is based on the theory that each
fibre has its own distinct two- colour reaction when
treated with stain.
A fibre will turn to a particular colour in the
presence of dilute acetic acid and to some other
specific colour when stained in the presence of a
mild alkali.
Solvent Test:
The test involves treating the fibres in certain
solvents for identifying them. The technical test is
becoming difficult to conduct as most of the
manufactured fibres and their blends are chemically
similar. There is no individual chemical or solvent
test for separating or identifying the fibres in
combinations.
 Distinguishinganimal from vegetable
fibres with an acid
As strong alkali destroy animal substances, a 5%
of soda lye solution in water can be used to
eliminate wool and silk fibers from a sample that
contains a mixture of fiber. The vegetable fibres
will not be affected by this solution.
 Distinguishingvegetable from animal
fibres with an acid
As dilute acid destroy vegetable fibers, a 2%
sulphuric acid solution can be used. A drop of
solution is placed on the sample, which is then
pressed with a hot iron. The spotted area will
become charred if the sample is cotton linen or
rayon.
DISTINGUISHING SILK FROM WOOL:
The use of concentrated cold hydrochloric acid will
dissolve the silk and the wool fiber swells.

DISTINGUISHING NYLON FROM OTHER

FIBRES:
If the fabric is thought to contain nylon, the fabric
may be immersed in a boiling solution of sodium
hydroxide. The nylon is insoluble in such a solution.
DISTINGUISHING POLYESTERS FROM
OTHER FIBRES:
Polyester is soluble in hot meta cresol; however ,
unlike acetate it is not soluble in acetone, and
unlike nylon it is not soluble in concentrated formic
acid.

DISTINGUISHING ACRYLICS FROM

OTHER FIBRES:
Acrylic fibers will dissolve in 70 percent solution of
ammonium thio cyanate at 130 degree Celsius but
the other fibers will not.
DISTINGUISHING LINEN FROM COTTON
Cotton and linen are immersed in a 1% solution of
fuchsine in alcohol to give red rose colour. Later ,
they are washed and immersed into ammonia, linen
retains the red coloration but cotton does not.

DISTINGUISHING GLASS FIBERS FROM OTHER

FIBRES:
There are two specific solvents for quick
identification of glass fibers, they are hydrofluoric
acid and hot phosphoric acid.
This technical fibre identification test has the following
advantages and limitations

Advantages

• More reliable than the non technical tests.

• Used for both man made fibres and natural fibres.
• Easily conducted.

Limitations

• Certain manufacturing and finishing processes like

mercerizing, affects the appearance of the fibres under
the microscope.
• Very dark coloured fabrics cannot be identified under
microscope.
• Dye stuffs must be removed from fabrics.
 Fiber Identification
Soda ash Caustic Sodiu Hydro Nitric Nitric Sulphur Sulphur Burning in Microscopic Remarks
40% sol. soda m hypo chloric acid acid ic acid ic acid Flame View
test 25% sol. chlorid acid 15% 70% 15% 70%
e 40%
fiber

Cotton swells Swells& Whitened Turns Opens &looses Dissolves Dissolves Burns Longitudinal Resistance to
Shines yellowish up strength on heating quickly continuously twists. alkalis.
leaving grey ash
Dissolves of burning paper
slowly smell

jute -do- -do- -do- --- --- -do -do Dissolves -do Longitudinal -Rough handle
irregular lines
-

Coir --- --- Color --- --- --- Dissolves Dissolves -do- Opaque thick serations
turns on slowly black ash Brittle & resistant
pale prolonged to chemicals
heating

Viscose Swells Swells & Gets Turns Dissolv Dissolves Dissolves Dissolves Burns Longitudinal Soft filaments
slowly weakene yellow es on continuously regular lines good luster
quickly leaving grey ash
dissolves d heating
of burning paper
smell

Silk Looses Dissolves Dissolve --- --- Dissolves --- Dissolves Self extinguishing Densed centre coating
strength s slowly partial;ly Leaves crushable line Uneven Delicate
Black beads lustrous
filaments

Wool -do- -do- Dissolves --- --- Dissolves --- Dissolves Self extinguishing Scales Rough crimpy
slowly slowly Leaves crushable structure fibers
Black beads
Fish

Polyeste --- --- --- --- --- Dissolves transpera Dissolves Burns& stops Translucent& Resistant to
r slowly on nt hard slowly leaving semi uniform chemicals
prolonged beads.
treatment

Acrylic --- --- --- --- --- Looses --- Turns Dissolves & Burns & stops Translucent&
strength yellowish Turns yellowish Out of flame uniform
& dissolves brown brown Leaving dark Lofty & more
slowly hard beads voluminous

Nylon --- --- --- --- --- Looses --- Dissolves Burns & stops Translucent& Strong
strength slowly Out of flame uniform More elastic
Leaving dark
hard beads
THANK YOU