Iolani Palace

Iolani Palace
Iolani Palace
U.S. National Register of Historic Places
U.S. National Historic Landmark

Iolani Palace is the hallmark of Hawaiian renaissance architecture

Location
Coordinates

Honolulu, HI
211823.84N 1575132.25W

[1]

Coordinates: 211823.84N 1575132.25W [1]

Area

10.6 acres (4.3ha)

Built

1879

Architect

Thomas J. Baker, Charles J. Wall, Isaac Moore

Architecturalstyle American Florentine

Governing body

State of Hawaii

Part of

Hawaii Capital Historic District (#78001020)

NRHPReference# 66000293
Significant dates
Added to NRHP

October 15, 1966

DesignatedNHL

December 29, 1962

Iolani Palace, in the capitol district of downtown Honolulu in the U.S. state of Hawaii, is the only royal palace
now a part of the United States. It was used as an official residence of the reigning Hawaiian sovereign and is now a
National Historic Landmark listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Two monarchs governed from Iolani
Palace: King Kalkaua and Queen Liliuokalani, although Kamehameha III, IV, V, and William Charles Lunalilo
had their main residences here as well. After the monarchy was overthrown in 1893, the building was used as the
capitol building for the Provisional Government, Republic, Territory, and State of Hawaii until 1969. The palace
was restored and opened to the public as a museum in 1978.

Iolani Palace

Background
Pohukaina
In the early 19th-century, this area was known as Pohukaina, probably from pohu ka ina which in the Hawaiian
language means "the land is calm". It may also been named for the chief of the same name (sometimes spelled
Pahukaina) who according to legend chose a cave in Kanehoalani in the Koolau Range for his resting place. The
land belonged to Kekauluohi, who later ruled as Kuhina Nui, as her birthrights.
The missionary Hiram Bingham I was allowed to build a missionary compound of his house and what became the
Kawaiahao Church outside of the old town. Some thatched huts were built for royalty to be near a school that the
missionaries ran for the royal family at the church. Another missionary William Ellis built his home there, and Prime
Minister Kalanimoku decided to build the first stone house on the site, naming it "Pohukaina". After Kalanimoku's
death, the building, often referred to as a palace, became the meeting hall for the council of chiefs. The present
palace grounds consist of many different homes for other aliis; Kekanoa build his house Haliimaile and Keoni
Ana lived in Knau Hale, which was later converted into the residence of the royal chamberlain, on the site.
Oral history told of an ancient heiau (temple to the Hawaiian religion) called Kaahaimauli that was destroyed in the
area.[2]
After 1825, the first Western-style royal tomb was constructed for the bodies of
King Kamehameha II and his queen Kammalu. They were buried on August 23,
1825. The idea was heavily influenced by the tombs at Westminster Abbey
during Kamehameha II's trip to London. The mausoleum was a small house
made of coral blocks with a thatched roof. It had no windows, and it was the duty
of two chiefs to guard the iron-locked koa door day and night. No one can enter
the vault except for burials or Memorial Day, a Hawaiian national holiday
celebrated on December 30.
Pohukaina burial site with old palace
behind

Although Kamehameha III lived in the compound for a while, he had no

permanent capital, and left in 1837 for Moku`ula on Maui., which became the
capital until 1845. Over time, as more bodies were added, the small vault became
crowded, so other chiefs and retainers were buried in unmarked graves nearby. In 1865 a selected 20 coffins were
removed to the Royal Mausoleum of Hawaii called Mauna Ala in Nuuanu Valley. But many chiefs remain on the
site including: Keawekekahialiiokamoku, Kalaniopuu, Chiefess Kapiolani, and Timothy Haalilio.
After being overgrown for many years, the Hawaiian Historical Society passed a resolution in 1930 requesting
Governor Lawrence Judd to memorialize the site with the construction of a metal fence enclosure and a plaque.
Tradition holds that the tomb was on the site of a former cave.

Iolani Palace

Hale Alii
The Iolani Palace structure that exists today is actually the second to
sit on the grounds. The original one story wooden building called
Hanailoia was built in July 1844, only one-third the floor area of the
present palace. Mataio Kekanoa, who was long-time Royal
Governor of Oahu, built it for his daughter Princess Victoria
Kammalu. It was purchased by King Kamehameha III from
Kammalu (the King's niece) when he moved his capital from Lahaina
to Honolulu in 1845. Kekanoa built his own house directly to the
west, and Kekuluohi built hers to the south near the Pohukaina
mausoleum.

A rare photograph of the original Iolani Palace,

the grandest house of its time in Honolulu

It was constructed as a traditional alii residence with only ceremonial

spaces, no sleeping rooms. It just had a throne room, a reception room, and a state dining room, with other houses
around for sleeping and for retainers. Kamehameha III slept in a cooler grass hut around the palace. He called his
home Hoihoikea in honor of his restoration after the Paulet Affair of 1843.
The palace building was named Hale Alii meaning (House of the Chiefs). During Kamehameha V's reign it was
changed to Iolani Palace, after his brother Kamehameha IV's given names (his full name was Alexander Liholiho
Keawenui Iolani). It literally means "royal hawk." The Palace served as the official residence of the monarch during
the reigns of Kamehameha IV, Kamehameha V, Lunalilo, and the first part of Kalkaua's reign. The original
structure was very simple in design and was more of a stately home than a palace, but at the time, it was the grandest
house in town. The palace was largely meant for receiving foreign dignitaries and state functions; the king preferred
to live in grass huts on the palace grounds.
Theodore Heuck, who had earlier designed the new Mausoleum, designed a building called Iolani Barracks,
completed in 1871, to house the royal guards. Over time the other houses on the grounds were removed and replaced
with grass lawns.

Aliilani Hale
King Kamehameha V envisioned a royal palace befitting of the sovereignty of a modern state. He commissioned the
construction of Aliilani Hale to be the official palace of the Hawaiian monarchy. The building was constructed
across the street from the original Iolani Palace structure. It was named after himself (his full name was Lot
Kapuaiwa Kalanikupuapaikalaninui Aliiolani Kalanimakua) it means "House of the heavenly King". At the time,
Hawaii sorely needed a government building, since the government buildings of the time were small and cramped.
Ultimately, Aliilani Hale became an administrative building instead of a palace, housing the judiciary of the
Kingdom of Hawaii and various other ministries.

Iolani Palace

Kalkaua's Iolani Palace

By the time David Kalkaua assumed
the throne, the original Iolani Palace
was in poor condition, suffering from
ground termite damage. He ordered the
old palace to be razed.
Kalkaua was the first monarch to
travel around the world. While visiting
Europe, he took note of the grand
palaces owned by other monarchs.
Like Kamehameha V, he dreamed of a
royal palace befitting of the
sovereignty of a modern state such as
Hawaii. He commissioned the
construction a new Iolani Palace,
directly across the street from
Aliilani Hale, to become the official
palace of the Hawaiian monarchy.

The palace shortly after construction

Design and construction

Thomas J. Baker designed the structure, Charles J. Wall added details, and architect Isaac Moore. The cornerstone
was laid December 31, 1879 during the administration of Minister of the Interior Samuel Gardner Wilder.:204 It was
built of brick with concrete facing. The building was completed in November 1882 and cost over $340,000 a vast
fortune at the time. It measures about 140 feet (43m) by 100 feet (30m), and rises two stories over a raised
basement to 54 feet (16m) high. It has four corner towers and two in the center rising to 76 feet (23m). On February
12, 1883 a formal European-style coronation ceremony was held, even though Kalkaua had reigned for 9 years. The
coronation pavilion was later moved to the southwest corner of the grounds and converted to a bandstand for the
Royal Hawaiian Band.
Iolani Palace features architecture seen nowhere else in the world. This unique style is known as American
Florentine. On the first floor a grand hall faces a staircase of koa wood. Ornamental plaster decorates the interior.
The throne room (southeast corner), the blue meeting room, and the dining room adjoin the hall. The blue room
included a large 1848 portrait of King Louis Philippe of France and a koa wood piano where Liliuokalani played her
compositions for guests. Upstairs are the private library and bedrooms of the Hawaiian monarchs. It had electricity
and telephones even before the White House.
It served as the official residence of the Hawaiian monarch until the 1893 overthrow of the Kingdom of Hawaii.
Beside Liliuokalani, Queen Kapiolani and other royal retainers were evicted from the palace after the overthrow.

Iolani Palace

Royal imprisonment and trial

The trial of Queen Liliuokalani was held in the Throne

Room of the palace

Upon the overthrow of the monarchy by the Committee of Safety

in 1893, troops of the newly formed Provisional Government of
Hawaii took control of Iolani Palace. After a few months
government offices moved in and it was renamed the "Executive
Building" for the Republic of Hawaii. Government officials
carefully inventoried its contents and sold at public auctions
whatever furniture or furnishings were not suitable for government
operations. Queen Liliuokalani was imprisoned for nine months in
a small room on the upper floor after the second of the Wilcox
rebellions in 1895. The quilt she made is still there. The trial was
held in the former throne room.

When a proposed annexation treaty up for ratification, the

Hawaiian Patriotic League held a protest rally at the palace on
September 6, 1897. They gathered petition signatures in an effort to demonstrate the treaty did not have popular
support. On August 12, 1898 US troops from the USSPhiladelphia came ashore and raised the Flag of the United
States at the palace to mark the annexation by the Newlands Resolution. The Queen and other Hawaiian nobles did
not attend, staying at Washington Place instead. The building served as the capitol of the Territory of Hawaii, the
military headquarters during World War II, and the State of Hawaii. During the government use of the palace, the
second floor royal bedroom became the governor's office, while the legislature occupied the entire first floor. The
representatives met in the former throne room and the senate in the former dining room.

Archives
After annexation, there was a fear that all records would be moved to the mainland. Since an 1847 effort by Robert
Crichton Wyllie, a set of archives had been kept of all kingdom records. A new fireproof building was built in 1906
on the grounds just to the southeast of the palace. It included a vault 30 feet (9.1m) by 40 feet (12m) with steel
shelves. At first it was to be called the Hall of Records, but the name Archives of Hawaii made it clear the
documents included those from the kingdom. A new Kekuluohi building provides digital access to some of the
collections.

Palace Restoration
In 1930 the interior of Iolani Palace was remodeled, and wood
framing replaced by steel and reinforced concrete. The name Iolani
Palace was officially restored in 1935. During World War II, it served
as the temporary headquarters for the military governor in charge of
martial law in the Hawaiian Islands.
The Hawaiian soldiers of Japanese ancestry who were accepted for
service in the US Army became the core of the 442nd Infantry
Regiment. Before leaving Hawaii for training on the mainland, they
were sworn in during a mass ceremony on the grounds of the Palace.[3]

Iolani Barracks housed the Royal Guards of

Hawaii

Through more than 70 years as a functional but neglected government

building, the Palace fell into disrepair. After Hawaii became a state, Governor John A. Burns began an effort to
restore the palace in the 1960s. The first step was to move the former Iolani Barracks building from its original
position northeast of the palace. It now serves as a visitors center for the palace.

Iolani Palace
Iolani Palace was designated a National Historic Landmark on December 29, 1962 and added as site 66000293 to
the National Register of Historic Places listings in Oahu on October 15, 1966. Government offices vacated the
Palace in 1969 and moved to the newly constructed Hawaii State Capitol building on the former barracks site. In
preparation for restoration, the Junior League of Honolulu researched construction, furnishings, and palace lifestyle
in nineteenth-century newspapers, photographs and archival manuscripts. Overseeing the restoration was The
Friends of Iolani Palace, founded by Liliuokalani Kawnanakoa Morris, grand-niece of Queen Kapiolani. Two
wooden additions were removed and the interior was restored based on original plans.
Through the efforts of acquisitions researchers and professional museum staff, and donations of individuals, many
original Palace objects have been returned. Government grants and private donations funded reproduction of original
fabrics and finishes to restore Palace rooms to their monarchy era appearance. Iolani Palace opened to the public in
1978 after structural restoration of the building was completed. In the basement is a photographic display of the
Palace, the Hawaiian crown jewels, orders and decorations given by the monarchs, and regalia worn by the high
chiefs of the islands.
The grounds of Iolani Palace are managed by the Hawaii State Department of Land and Natural Resources but the
palace building itself is managed as a historical house museum by the Friends of Iolani Palace, a non-profit
non-governmental organization. The birthdays of King Kalkaua (November 16) and Queen Kapiolani (December
28) are celebrated with ceremonies.

Recent events
On January 17, 1993, a massive observation was held on the grounds of Iolani Palace to mark the 100th anniversary
of the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy. A torchlight vigil was held at night, with the palace draped in black.
On April 30, 2008, Iolani Palace was overtaken by a group of native Hawaiians who called themselves the Hawaiian
Kingdom Government to protest what they view as illegitimate rule by the United States. Mahealani Kahau, "head of
state" of the group, said they do not recognize Hawaii as a U.S. state, but would keep the occupation of the palace
peaceful. "The Hawaiian Kingdom Government is here and it doesn't plan to leave. This is a continuity of the
Hawaiian Kingdom of 1892 to today," Kahau said.
In response, the Friends of Iolani Palace released a statement that while they "respect the freedom of Hawaiian
groups to hold an opinion on the overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom, we believe that blocking public access to
Iolani Palace is wrong and certainly detrimental to our mission to share the Palace and its history with our residents,
our keiki (children), and our visitors." The statement clarified that the original seat of government of the Hawaiian
Kingdom was not Iolani Palace. The Palace was used as the royal residence while government activities were
carried out in the original courthouse (now demolished) and later in Aliiolani Hale.

In fiction
Iolani Palace plays a significant role in the Harry Turtledove books Days of Infamy and End of the Beginning as the
seat of the Japanese puppet government of Hawaii.
A movie titled Princess Kaiulani about Princess Ka iulani was filmed at the palace in 2008.
A fictional character claiming to work for the Iolani Palace restoration project and trying to recover presents Queen
Kapiolani gave to Boston residents on her stay there in 1887 plays a significant role in Charlotte MacLeod's
detective fiction The Withdrawing Room (1981).Wikipedia:Citation needed
In the episode "Yapper" from Lilo & Stitch: The Series, Pleakley and Jumba visit Iolani Palace as part of Pleakley's
sight seeing tour of Honolulu. In the same episode, Lilo enters Stitch in a dog show in hopes of beating Mertle and
Gigi (Experiment 007).

Iolani Palace

Images

Iolani Hawk, the high flight of the hawk signified

Hawaiian Royalty.

Coronation Pavilion for King Kalakaua and Queen

Kapiolani in 1883

Iolani Barracks

Iolani Palace

An 1883 public notice announcing a reception at the

Iolani Palace

References
[1] http:/ / tools. wmflabs. org/ geohack/ geohack. php?pagename=%CA%BBIolani_Palace& params=21_18_23. 84_N_157_51_32.
25_W_region:US_type:landmark
[2] (extracts of address at cornerstone ceremony in 1879)
[3] Coffman, Tom et al. (2006). The First Battle: the Battle for Equality in War-time Hawaii, (http:/ / thefirstbattle. com/ index. html) Script, Act
II. (http:/ / thefirstbattle. com/ film-script. html#act2)

External links
Photo essay on residences of Hawaiian Kings (http://www.fmschmitt.com/travels/Hawaii/Hawaiian-History/
index.html)
Friends of Iolani Palace (http://www.iolanipalace.org)
Iolani Palace oral history on Pacific Worlds (http://www.pacificworlds.com/nuuanu/native/native4.cfm)
Iolani Palace and the Overthrow of the Monarchy on Pacific Worlds (http://www.pacificworlds.com/nuuanu/
memories/memory2.cfm)
Coffman, Tom, (2006).David Hoole; Nyla Fujii; Eric Nemoto and Gary Ontai. (2006). The First Battle: the Battle
for Equality in War-time Hawaii. (http://thefirstbattle.com/index.html) San Francisco: Center for Asian
American Media. OCLC 72700683 (http://www.worldcat.org/title/
first-battle-the-battle-for-equality-in-war-time-hawaii/oclc/72700683)
Historic American Buildings Survey (HABS) No.HI-1, " Iolani Palace, King & Richards Streets, Honolulu,
Honolulu County, HI (http://loc.gov/pictures/item/hi0047)", 57photos, 23measured drawings, 2data pages,
3photo caption pages
HABS No.HI-2, " Iolani Bandstand, King & Richards Streets, Honolulu, Honolulu County, HI (http://loc.
gov/pictures/item/hi0045)", 8photos, 3measured drawings, 6data pages, 1photo caption page
HABS No.HI-3, " Iolani Barracks, Richards & Hotel Streets, Honolulu, Honolulu County, HI (http://loc.
gov/pictures/item/hi0045)", 17photos, 6measured drawings, 6data pages, 1photo caption page

Article Sources and Contributors

Article Sources and Contributors

Iolani Palace Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?oldid=611258015 Contributors: 293.xx.xxx.xx, Acalamari, Acroterion, Ahawaiiguy, Ajithchandra, Ali'i, Alicekim53, Alileng, Ann
Stouter, Aoi, Appraiser, Arbor, Bluemoose, Burschik, Catapult, Chester Markel, CommonsDelinker, Cristo Vlahos, Cuwcadet08, Dabomb87, Delirium, Dgowre, Domino theory, Doncram, Droll,
Drpickem, Dthomsen8, Ebyabe, Edward, Elagatis, Enkyo2, Eoghanacht, Erianna, Foofbun, Fourthords, Geologyguy, Gerald Farinas, Ghirlandajo, GrahamHardy, Grenavitar, Gryffindor,
Hannanco, Hmains, Hokulani78, Ipoellet, JHunterJ, JLaTondre, Jamesx12345, Jiang, Jllm06, Joel Bradshaw, KAVEBEAR, Kaihsu, KeithH, Kintetsubuffalo, LordAmeth, LurkingInChicago,
Lvklock, Magioladitis, Man vyi, Mark Miller, Marox79, Marshman, Maya, Mestesso, Mitchazenia, Ncox, Neutrality, Nyttend, Olborne, PamD, Paris1127, Paul Chester, Pcpcpc, Phoenix1867,
RJSchmitt, Raymond1922A, Rich Farmbrough, Richard Weil, Rjwilmsi, Rockypedia, Ryulong, Sallicio, Senjuto, Ser Amantio di Nicolao, Sertrel, Sgt Pinback, Sherool, Steve03Mills, TDogg310,
TexasAndroid, Thedjatclubrock, Travis.Thurston, Ttwaring, Vegaswikian, Vegaswikian1, Viralxtreme14, W Nowicki, WPPilot, Wmpearl, Xeworlebi, Zscout370, , , 78
anonymous edits

Image Sources, Licenses and Contributors

File:Iolani Palace Oahu Hawaii Photo D Ramey Logan.JPG Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=File:Iolani_Palace_Oahu_Hawaii_Photo_D_Ramey_Logan.JPG License:
Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 3.0 Contributors: WPPilot
Image:Pohukaina and old Iolani Palace.jpg Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=File:Pohukaina_and_old_Iolani_Palace.jpg License: Public Domain Contributors: Hugo
Stangenwald (1829-1899)
File:Former Iolani Palace.jpg Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=File:Former_Iolani_Palace.jpg License: Public Domain Contributors: credited to Hawaii State Archives
File:Iolani Palace in 1885.jpg Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=File:Iolani_Palace_in_1885.jpg License: Public Domain Contributors: unknown photographer
File:Trial of Liliuokalani (PP-98-12-007).jpg Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=File:Trial_of_Liliuokalani_(PP-98-12-007).jpg License: Public Domain Contributors:
unknown
File:Iolani Barracks.jpg Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=File:Iolani_Barracks.jpg License: Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 3.0 Contributors: User:Travis.Thurston
File:Io on takeoff.jpg Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=File:Io_on_takeoff.jpg License: Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 2.0 Contributors: Kanalu Chock
File:Iolani Palace (1326).JPG Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=File:Iolani_Palace_(1326).JPG License: Public Domain Contributors: User:Jiang
File:Iolani Palace (1325).JPG Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=File:Iolani_Palace_(1325).JPG License: Public Domain Contributors: User:Jiang
File:Iolani Palace Public Notice.jpg Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=File:Iolani_Palace_Public_Notice.jpg License: Public Domain Contributors: Alicekim53, Auntof6,
Peu386

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