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Niihau
Niihau
Geography
[1]
Location
2154N 16010W
Area
69.5sqmi (180km2)
Area rank
Highestelevation
1250 ft (381m)
Highestpoint
Mt. Pnau
Country
United States
Symbols
[2]
Flower
Color
Keokeo" (White)
[3]
Demographics
Population
Density
1.9/sqmi (.7/km)
Niihau
Niihau or Niihau (/niha/; Hawaiian: [niihu]) is the seventh largest of the inhabited Hawaiian Islands in the
U.S. state of Hawaii, having an area of 69.5 square miles (180km2). Niihau lies 17.5 miles (15.2nmi; 28.2km)
southwest of Kauai across the Kaulakahi Channel. Several intermittent playa lakes provide wetland habitats for the
Hawaiian Coot, the Black-winged Stilt, and the Hawaiian Duck. The island is designated as critical habitat for
Brighamia insignis, an endemic and endangered species of Hawaiian lobelioid. The United States Census Bureau
defines Niihau and the neighboring island and State Seabird Sanctuary of Lehua as Census Tract 410 of Kauai
County, Hawaii. Its 2000 census population was 160;[4] As of June 2009, the population was 130.
Elizabeth Sinclair purchased Niihau in 1864 from the Kingdom of Hawaii and private ownership passed on to her
descendants, the Robinson family. During World War II, the island was the site of the Niihau Incident: A Japanese
navy fighter pilot crashed on the island and terrorized its residents for a week after the attack on Pearl Harbor. The
people of Niihau are known for their gemlike lei pp (shell lei) craftsmanship, and speak Hawaiian as a primary
language. The island is generally off-limits to all but relatives of the island's owners, U.S. Navy personnel,
government officials and invited guests, giving it the nickname "The Forbidden Isle." Beginning in 1987, a limited
number of supervised activity tours and hunting safaris have opened to tourists. The island is currently managed by
Bruce and Keith Robinson.
Geography
See also: List of beaches in Niihau
Niihau is located about 18 miles (29km) west of Kauai, and the tiny, uninhabited island of Lehua lies 0.7 miles
(0.61nmi; 1.1km) north of Niihau. Niihau's dimensions are 6.2 miles by 18.6 miles (10km x 30km). The
maximum elevation (Paniau) is 1,280 feet (390m). The island is about 4.9 million years old, making it geologically
younger than the 5 million year old neighboring island of Kauai to the northeast. Niihau consists of one extinct
volcano that had a large landslide to the east.
Climate
The island is relatively arid because it lies in the rain shadow of Kauai, and lacks the elevation needed to catch
significant amounts of trade wind rainfall. Niihau therefore, depends for its rain on winter Kona storms, when more
northerly weather systems intrude into the region. As such, the island is subject to long periods of drought. Historical
droughts on Niihau have been recorded several times, one in 1792 by Captain James Cook's former junior officer,
George Vancouver, who had been told that the people of Niihau had abandoned the island because of a severe
drought and had moved to Kauai to escape famine.
Niihau
Several bird species thrive on Niihau. Intermittent playa lakes on the island provide wetland habitats for the alae
keokeo (Hawaiian Coot), the eo (Black-winged Stilt), and the koloa maoli (Hawaiian Duck). The critically
endangered Hawaiian monk seal (Monachus schauinslandi) is found in high numbers on Niihau's shores. Robinson
states that Niihau's secluded shoreline offers them a safe haven from habitat encroachments. According to Robinson,
conditions there are better than the government refuges of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. When the Robinsons
originally purchased Niihau, no monk seals were present, because they lived in the northwestern part of the
Hawaiian island chain, Necker and Midway islands. They have been relocated to the main Hawaiian island chain by
NOAA fisheries over the past thirty years, and some have found homes on Niihau.
Big game herds, imported from stock on Molokai Ranch in recent years, roam Niihau's forests and flatlands. Eland
and aoudad are abundant, along with oryxes, wild boars and feral sheep. These big game herds provide income from
hunting safari tourism.
History
Prior to the unification of the Kingdom of Hawaii under Kamehameha
I, Niihau was ruled by the alii. Kahelelani was the first of the Niihau
alii. His name is now used to refer to the Niihau kahelelani, the puka
shell of the wart turbans (Leptothyra verruca), used to make exquisite
Niihau shell jewelry. Keoklani was a ruler of northern Niihau who
unified the island after defeating his rival, a chief named Kawaihoa. A
stone wall (Pphaku) across a quarter of the island's southern end
marked the boundaries of the two chiefs: Keo's land was identified by
Map of Yam Bay and Niihau, Captain George
black stones and Kawaihoa's by white stones. Eventually, a great battle
Dixon's Journal, 1788.
took place, known as Pali Kamakaui. Keo's two brothers from the
island of Maui, Kaiana and his half-brother Kahekili II, the King of Maui, fought for Keo and Niihau was united
under his rule. Kawaihoa was banished to the south end of the island and Keo moved to the middle of the island to
govern. Keo married the Queen Kamakahelei and a future king of Niihau and Kauai named Kaumualii was born
in 1790. Kauai and Niihau are said to have carried the "highest blood lines" in the Hawaiian Islands.
Kamehameha managed to unify all of the islands by 1795, except for Kauai and Niihau:[5] Two attempts to conquer
those islands had failed, and Kamehameha lost many men: bodies covered the beaches on Kauai's eastern shores.
Finally, in 1810, Kamehameha amassed a great fleet, and Kaumualii, the last independent alii, surrendered rather
than risk further bloodshed. Independence again became feasible after Kamehameha's death in 1819, but was put
down when Kamehameha's widow Kaahumanu kidnapped Kaumualii and forced him to marry her. Thereafter
Niihau remained part of the unified Kingdom of Hawaii.
Niihau
Elizabeth
McHutchison
Sinclair
(18001892) purchased Niihau and parts of
Kauai from Kamehameha V in 1864 for
$10,000 in gold. Sinclair chose Niihau over
other options, including Waikk and Pearl
Harbor. By around 1875, Niihau's
population consisted of about 350 Native
Hawaiians, with 20,000 sheep. This era
marked the end of the art of Hawaiian
matweaving made famous by the people of
Niihau. Makaloa (Cyperus laevigatus), a
native sedge, used to grow on the edges of
Niihau's three intermittent lakes. The stems
were harvested and used to weave moena
A group of villagers at Puuwai Beach settlement, Niihau in 1885. Photograph
makaloa (mats), considered the "finest
taken by Francis Sinclair, son of Elizabeth McHutchison Sinclair.
sleeping mats in Polynesia". The mats were
valued by alii and foreign visitors alike, but
by the end of the 19th century, Hawaiians had stopped weaving makaloa due to changes in population, culture,
economics, and the environment.
In 1915, Sinclair's grandson Aubrey Robinson closed the island to most visitors. Even relatives of the inhabitants
could visit only by special permission. Upon Aubrey's death in 1939 the island passed to his son Aylmer, and in
1968 to Aylmer's youngest brother Lester. Upon Lester's wife Helen's death, the island passed to his sons Bruce and
Keith Robinson, the current co-owners. (See Owners' family tree)
Niihau played a small role during the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941. In what has come to be called
the Niihau Incident (or the Battle of Niihau), an off-course Japanese pilot crash-landed on the island and was
captured by locals. The pilot escaped with the assistance of local Japanese residents, but was later recaptured and
killed.[6]
Despite its self-imposed isolation, Niihau has a long-standing relationship with the U.S. military dating from 1924.
There is a small Navy installation on the island. No military personnel are permanently stationed there, but the U.S.
military has used the island for training special operations units, which included hiring Hawaiians that live on
Ni'ihau as "enemy" trackers.[7]
Society
Politics
See also: Politics of Hawaii
The island of Niihau was considered as a possible location for the United Nations headquarters in 1944 by Franklin
D. Roosevelt. Roosevelt had visited Hawaii in 1934. Under Cordell Hull, Roosevelt's Secretary of State, the State
Department seriously studied the proposal.
In 2004 President George W. Bush received all but one of the 40 votes cast on the island. The remaining vote was
cast for Green Party nominee David Cobb. 51 registered voters did not cast ballots.[8] In 2006 Dan Akaka received
33 votes in the 2006 Senate election to Cynthia Thielen's 3.Wikipedia:Citation needed In 2008, Niihau's precinct
was one of only 3 of Hawaii's 538 precincts to vote for John McCain over Barack Obama. McCain received 35
votes, Obama received 4, and Cynthia McKinney received 1.[9]
Niihau
Population
Niihau has approximately 130 permanent
inhabitants, nearly all of whom are Native Hawaiians
who live in the island's main settlement of Puuwai.
Some support themselves largely by subsistence
fishing and farming, others depend on welfare,[10]
and generally lead a rural, low-tech life. All residents
live rent-free, and meat is free. Niihau has no
telephone service, no automobiles and no paved
roads. Horses are the main form of transportation;
bicycles are also used. There are no power lines;
solar power provides all electricity. There is no
plumbing or running water on the island. Water
comes from rainwater catchment. The Robinson
family established most of these conditions. There is
no hotel or general store; barges deliver groceries
from Kauai, often purchased by relatives, with free
shipping.
Residents speak the Hawaiian language as their first language, in part encouraged by terms in the original purchase
contract which obligated the new owners to help preserve Hawaiian culture and tradition. The Niihau dialect differs
from modern Hawaiian in that, for example, [t] and [] are the most common realizations of the phonemes /k/ and /l/.
Niihau is the only island where Hawaiian is spoken as a primary language; Linguistic evidence and oral tradition
maintain that the Niihau dialect is closer to the Hawaiian register spoken during the time of European contact.
English is the second language.
Some residents have radio and television sets, although limited reception effectively limits the latter to watching
VHS tapes and DVDs. Niihau is subject to regular droughts that occasionally force the population to evacuate to
Kauai temporarily, until rainfall replenishes their water supply. Residents commonly also commute to Kauai for
work, medical care, or school, and many of them call both islands home. To avoid a long boat ride, the island's
owners maintain an Agusta A109 helicopter for emergencies and for transporting Navy contractors and residents to
and from Kauai. Helicopter tours and safaris help offset the costs of this service.
A form of ipu art is known to have developed solely on the island of Niihau. In this method, after a design is carved
in the skin of a fresh gourd, it is filled with dye which, after several weeks, changes the color of the uncarved
portions of the surface where the skin is intact. Hawaiian music plays a central role on the island, with a cappella
singers making use of only two or three tones and changing rhythms. Ukulele and guitar playing is nearly ubiquitous
among the islanders, and there are three separate styles of slack-key music, with an older style originating from
Kohala.
Education
The Hawaii Department of Education operates the Niihau School, a K-12 school. Academic subjects and computer
literacy are combined with teaching students to "thrive from the land." The school is powered entirely by solar
power. The number of students varies from 25 to 50 since families often travel between Niihau and Kauai.
Schoolchildren may stay with relatives in west Kauai, where they attend one of two Niihau-focused public charter
schools. At the Ke Kula Niihau o Kekaha school, students speak primarily the Niihau dialect through the early
elementary grades, and then Hawaiian and English through grade 12. The school has a digital recording and video
system, which helps to preserve and teach traditional Niihau and Hawaiian culture. At the other west Kauai school,
Niihau
Kula Aupuni Niihau a Kahelelani Aloha (KANAKA), English is used in all grades, while still supporting the
Niihau dialect. Both schools foster the culture, values, and spirituality of Niihau.
Economy
Approximately 80% of Niihau's income comes from a small Navy installation atop 1,300-foot-high cliffs.
Remote-controlled tracking devices are used for testing and training with Kaua'i's Pacific Missile Range Facility.
Modern missile defense tests are conducted at the site for the U.S. and its allies. The installation brings in millions of
dollars a year, and provides the island with a stable economic base without the complexity of tourism or industrial
development. The sale of shells and shell jewelry is an additional source of income. Its beaches are known for their
pp, tiny shells that wash onto shore during winter months. Species used for shell leis includes momi (Euplica
varians), laiki or rice shells (Mitrella margarita) and kahelelani (Leptothyra verruca). The shells and jewelry are so
popular that Governor Linda Lingle signed a bill in 2004 to protect lei pp o Niihau (Niihau shell leis) from
counterfeiting.[11] A single, intricate Niihau shell lei can sell for thousands of dollars.
Tourism
Niihau's owners have offered half-day helicopter and beach tours of the island since 1987, although contact with
residents is avoided and no accommodations exist.[12] Since 1992, hunting safaris provide income via tourists who
pay to visit the island to hunt eland, aoudad, and oryx, as well as wild sheep and boars. Any meat the hunters do not
take with them is given to the village.
Niihau
Francis W. Sinclair
(1797-1846)
Charles B.
Robinson
Helen Sinclair
Aubrey Robinson
(18531936)
Aylmer Robinson
(18881967)
Lester Beauclerk
Robinson
(19011969)
Keith Robinson
(b. 1941)
Elizabeth
McHutchison
(18001892)
Jane Sinclair
(d. 1916)
Thomas
Gay
(d. 1865)
Alice Gay
Francis
Gay
Anne Sinclair
(1839-1922)
Valdemar
Knudsen
(18191898)
Eric Alfred
Knudsen
(18721957)
Helen Matthew
(19102002)
Bruce Robinson
Notes
[1]
[2]
[3]
[4]
Niihau
References
Beekman, Allan (1995) [1982]. The Niihau Incident. Honolulu, HI: Heritage Press of Pacific.
ISBN0-9609132-0-3.
Fisher, Harvey I. (JanFeb 1951). "The Avifauna of Niihau Island, Hawaiian Archipelago". The Condor (Cooper
Ornithological Society) 53 (1): 3142. doi: 10.2307/1364585 (http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/1364585). ISSN
0010-5422 (http://www.worldcat.org/issn/0010-5422). JSTOR 1364585 (http://www.jstor.org/stable/
1364585).
Macdonald, Gordon A.; Agatin T. Abbott; Frank L. Peterson (1983) [1970]. Volcanoes in the Sea: The Geology of
Hawaii (2nd ed.). Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press. ISBN0-8248-0832-0.
Mitchell, C.; C. Ogura, D.W. Meadows, A. Kane, L. Strommer, S. Fretz, D. Leonard, and A. McClung
(2005-10-01). Hawaii's Comprehensive Wildlife Conservation Strategy. Chapter 6: Island Conservation Needs Niihau (http://www.state.hi.us/dlnr/dofaw/cwcs/files/NAAT final CWCS/Chapters/CHAPTER 6 Niihau
NAAT final !.pdf) (PDF). Final. Department of Land and Natural Resources. Retrieved 2009-03-23.
Morgan, Joseph R. (1996). "Kaua'i and Ni'ihau". Hawai'i: A Unique Geography. The Bess Press.
ISBN1-57306-021-6.
Nordyke, Eleanor C. (1989). The Peopling of Hawaii. University of Hawaii Press. ISBN0-8248-1191-7.
Shearer, Barbara Smith (2002). State Names, Seals, Flags, and Symbols: a Historical Guide (http://books.
google.com/?id=nCA0UuGlJG8C&lpg=PP1&pg=PA99#v=onepage&q=) (3 ed.). Greenwood Publishing
Group. ISBN978-0-313-31534-3.
Sommer, Anthony (1999-05-14). "Niihau: Opening Up" (http://archives.starbulletin.com/1999/05/14/news/
story1.html). News (Honolulu Star-Bulletin). Retrieved 2009-07-23.
Tabrah, Ruth M. (1987). Niihau, the last Hawaiian island. Press Pacifica. ISBN0-916630-59-5.
Tava, Rerioterai; Keale, Moses K. (1998). Niihau, the traditions of a Hawaiian island (http://www.
mutualpublishing.com/bookinfo.aspx?bookID=242). Mutual Publishing. ISBN0-935180-80-X.
Wichman, Juliet Rice; St. John, Harold (1990). A Chronicle and Flora of Niihau. National Tropical Botanical
Garden. ISBN0-915809-14-1.
Further reading
Barnhart, Sky (July 2008). "The Flowers of Niihau" (http://www.mauimagazine.net/Maui-Magazine/
July-August-2008/The-Flowers-of-Niihau/). Maui N Ka Oi Magazine 12 (4). Retrieved 2009-08-17.
Clark, John R. K. (1990). Beaches of Kauai and Niihau. Honolulu, Hawaii: University of Hawaii Press.
pp.79102. ISBN0-8248-1260-3.
Conover, Adele; Gary Braasch (November 1996). "A Onetime Rancher Wages Lonely War to Save Rare Plants".
Smithsonian (Smithsonian Institution) 27 (8): 114.
Daws, Gavan; Timothy Heap (October 1962). "Niihau a shoal of time" (http://www.americanheritage.com/
articles/magazine/ah/1963/6/1963_6_48.shtml). American Heritage (American Heritage Publishing Company)
14 (6). Retrieved 2008-05-06.
Laracy, Hugh (September 2001). "The Sinclairs of Pigeon bay and the Romantic 'Pre-history' of the Robinsons of
Niihau". Journal of Pacific History (Routledge) 36 (2): 183199. doi: 10.1080/00223340120075560 (http://dx.
doi.org/10.1080/00223340120075560).
Licayan, Emalia; Nizo, Virginia; Kanahele, Elama (2007). Kanahele, Elama; Armitage, Kimo; NeSmith, Keao,
eds. Aloha Niihau: Oral Histories. Waipahu, Hawaii: Island Heritage Publishing. ISBN1-59700-209-7.
May, Ernest R (1946-11-02). "They Never Leave This Real Shangri-La". The Saturday Evening Post 219 (18):
2867. ISSN 0048-9239 (http://www.worldcat.org/issn/0048-9239).
Meyer, Philip A. (1998). Niihau - Present Circumstances and Future Requirement in an Evolving Hawaiian
Community. Ni'ihau, Hawai'i: Hoomana Ia Iesu Church.
Niihau
Paul, Caroline (2007). East Wind, Rain. Harper Perennial. ISBN0-06-078076-2.
Stepien, Edward R. (1988) [1984]. Niihau, A Brief History 1. Honolulu: Center for Pacific Islands Studies,
School of Hawaiian, Asian, & Pacific Studies, University of Hawaii at Manoa. pp.1134. hdl: 10125/15544
(http://hdl.handle.net/10125/15544).
Stepien, Edward R. (1988) [1984]. Niihau, A Brief History 2. Honolulu: Center for Pacific Islands Studies,
School of Hawaiian, Asian, & Pacific Studies, University of Hawaii at Manoa. pp.135268. hdl: 10125/15544
(http://hdl.handle.net/10125/15544).
Coordinates: 2154N 16010W (http:/ / tools. wmflabs. org/ geohack/ geohack. php?pagename=Niihau&
params=21_54_N_160_10_W_type:isle_scale:500000)
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