Colt Revolvers Workshop Manual Vol 1 - Jerry Kuhnhausen PDF

Acknowledgements
A special thanks to the following manufacturers who were generous enough to contribute items of reader
interest, including: photographs, artwork, illustrations, phantom illustrations, cross-sectional drawings,
parts diagrams, exploded diagrams, and technical data.
Colt Industries Inc., Firearms Division
Ransom International Corp.
Clymer Manufacturing Co., Inc.
Gun Parts Corporation
Millett Sights
Colt has not published shop manuals on the mechanics of their revolvers, possibly on the belief that shelf
availability of mechanical information might allow the untrained and/or unqualified to "fix", or otherwise
tinker with, Colt firearms which were not in need of repair in the first place. But, with or without books
on the subject, (and the cautions and safety warnings contained therein) tinkerers, being irrepressible, will
tinker, just the same. In the absence of specific model training programs, we believe professional
armourers, gunsmiths, and revolversmiths will be better served by the data in this shop manual than by no
data at all- and they might be helped even more by the safety warnings, cautions, and maximumminimum specifications given. As we see it, it's also only fair that non-professionals have ready access to,
and benefit of, as many of the very same cautions, safety warnings, and specifications as possible. In this
way, perhaps a caution might be read and heeded before the fact of an unsafe act, mishap, injury, etc.
Hopefully, the very complexity of this subject might convince the nonprofessional to take his revolver to
a Colt qualified revolversmith for repair, if, or when, repair is needed.
These days, U.S. manufacturers are under a heavy liability load. The problem is even greater for
manufacturers with independent field repair networks. That field repair stations exist to offer regional
customer service provides the manufacturer no relief.
With factory liability in mind, the following disclaimer is included at Colt's request:
"The content of this book reflects the writer's experience and is not necessarily the recommendation of
Colt. Colt, therefore, shall not be liable for the content of this book nor for any mishap claimed to result
from the use of this published material. Colt instructions for users are contained solely in its manuals,
which are available free from its factory, (P.O. Box 1868, Hartford, Connecticut 06102)."
The Colt logo, Rampant Colt, Serpentine Colt, and Rampant Colt in a circle, used in this publication to
identify Colt products, are registered trademarks of Colt Industries, Inc.
4
Contents, Section I
Page
Introduction ........................................................................................................................................... 6
About Colt's D, E, & I Frame Revolvers ................................................................................................. 7
Historical ............................................................................................................................................... 8
Early Model ..........................................................................................................................................13
Intermediate & Late Models ..................................................................................................................16
About Gunsmithing the Colt D.A. Revolver ..........................................................................................17
D, E, and I Action Safety Features.........................................................................................................19
Gunsmith's Safety Rules........................................................................................................................20
Disassembly Pre-checks ........................................................................................................................21
Disassembly .........................................................................................................................................22
Pre-check Safety Assembly ...................................................................................................................33
Early and Late Style Crane/Cylinder Assemblies ...................................................................................38
Detail Cleaning Before Inspection .........................................................................................................43
Frame and Barrel Inspection ..................................................................................................................46
Damaged Frames ..................................................................................................................................47
Damaged Forcing Cones .......................................................................................................................50
Damaged Barrels ..................................................................................................................................51
Begin Parts Checkout & Reassembly.....................................................................................................52
Critical Parts .........................................................................................................................................54
About Early & Late Cranes ...................................................................................................................55
Check Early Style Crane/Frame Fit .......................................................................................................57
Check Late Style Crane/Frame Fit .........................................................................................................59
Check Crane Alignment ........................................................................................................................60
About Cylinder Service Procedures .......................................................................................................61
Cylinder Checks ...................................................................................................................................62
Check Early & Late Ejector/Ratchets ....................................................................................................63
Early & Late Ejector Rods ....................................................................................................................65
Cylinder Reassembly ............................................................................................................................67
About Headspace, Endplay, & Barrel Clearance ....................................................................................70
Headspace and Clearance Table ............................................................................................................71
Three-Way Headspace/Endplay/Gap Relationship .................................................................................73
Gauge Check Headspace .......................................................................................................................74
Cylinder Bolt Inspection and Fitting ......................................................................................................76
D, E, and I Triggers...............................................................................................................................82
Safe Trigger Pull ...................................................................................................................................84
Hammer Push-Off .................................................................................................................................85
Safety Assemblies, Early and Late.........................................................................................................87
D, E, and I Hammers.............................................................................................................................90
Firing Pins and Firing Pin Problems ......................................................................................................91
Firing Pin Protrusion .............................................................................................................................93
Check D.A. Hammer Strut ....................................................................................................................94
Hammer-Trigger Pre-check ...................................................................................................................96
About D, E, and I Hands .......................................................................................................................97
About Rebound Levers ....................................................................................................................... 102
High Rebound Cam............................................................................................................................. 103
Low Rebound Cam ............................................................................................................................. 106
Rebound/Hammer Problems................................................................................................................ 107
Other Rebound Related Problems ........................................................................................................ 108
5
Before Timing Bolt Drop .................................................................................................................... 109
About Bolt Drop Timing ..................................................................................................................... 110
Before Top & Bottom Hand Fitting ..................................................................................................... 111
Top & Bottom Hand Checks & Fitting ................................................................................................ 113
Stretch Short D and E/I Hands............................................................................................................. 117
About Ratchet Lug Fitting ................................................................................................................... 118
Bottom Hand & Ratchet Seating.......................................................................................................... 119
Hand/Shell Head Clearance ................................................................................................................. 120
Mainsprings & Trigger Pull................................................................................................................. 121
Test S.A. & D.A. Trigger Pull ............................................................................................................. 123
Safety and Common Sense .................................................................................................................. 126
Troubleshooting Guide........................................................................................................................ 129
Factory Lubrication Specifications ...................................................................................................... 137
Contents, Section II, Shopwork ......................................................................................................Page
Sights and Sight Work ........................................................................................................................ 140
Replace Trigger/Hammer Frame Pins .................................................................................................. 146
Replace Recoil Plate ........................................................................................................................... 148
Align/Straighten Crane, Old Method ................................................................................................... 149
Align/Straighten Crane, New Method .................................................................................................. 150
Misfit Cylinder Bolts .......................................................................................................................... 152
Replace Cylinder Bolt ......................................................................................................................... 153
Replace Trigger .................................................................................................................................. 154
Basic Sear Fitting Angles/Trigger Pull................................................................................................. 155
Replace Hammer Assembly ................................................................................................................ 156
Replace Cylinder Hand ....................................................................................................................... 157
New E/I Hand Fitting Points ............................................................................................................... 158
New D Hand Fitting Points ................................................................................................................. 159
Fitting New or "Unequal" Ratchet Lugs............................................................................................... 160
Misfit Rebounds & Why Rebounds are Replaced................................................................................. 161
New E/I Rebound Fitting Steps ........................................................................................................... 162
New D Rebound Fitting Steps ............................................................................................................. 163
More on Fitting New Rebound Levers ................................................................................................. 164
Why Cylinder Collars are Stretched..................................................................................................... 166
Why Cylinder/Ratchet Assemblies are Replaced .................................................................................. 168
About Early D & E Cylinders .............................................................................................................. 169
Set Cylinder Headspace ...................................................................................................................... 171
Set Ratchet Length (Set Endplay) ........................................................................................................ 172
Ratchet/Hand Clearance ...................................................................................................................... 173
Why Barrels are Replaced ................................................................................................................... 174
Remove Barrel .................................................................................................................................... 175
Barrel Requalification or Set-Back ...................................................................................................... 176
Final Check Barrel Fit & Torque Barrel............................................................................................... 178
About D, E, and I Model Forcing Cones .............................................................................................. 179
Cut and Gauge Forcing Cone .............................................................................................................. 180
Recut Barrel Crown ............................................................................................................................ 182
Plug Gauge/Range Rod Check ............................................................................................................ 183
Tuning Factors in Match Actions......................................................................................................... 184
Drag Elimination in Match Actions ..................................................................................................... 186
Test Firing 6x6 for Match Accuracy .................................................................................................... 188
Parts Diagrams.................................................................................................................................... 190
Factory Discontinued Parts Section ..................................................................................................... 202
6
INTRODUCTION
This book was reprinted from a series of highly detailed, loose-leaf gunsmith training manuals written by
gunsmith Jerry Kuhnhausen for the original purpose of training and shop use by his personnel. See about
author, inside rear cover.
The Colt Double Action Revolver- A Shop Manual, Volume I, is one of several VSP shop manuals
written by Jerry Kuhnhausen on Colt's revolvers, and the first of the Colt revolver series to be released.
Volume I covers D, E and I frame revolvers in great detail. With their inherent design similarity, models
built on these frames group quite naturally. The later Mark III, Mark V and AA model revolvers are of an
entirely different design and form their own separate group, discussed in Volume II. Colt's much older
single action revolvers form yet another grouping, and are the subject of another manual.
For reader convenience, the printer has resized this manual to standard book size, retaining the author's
original photographs, illustrations, and instructions. Additional supplemental artwork, drawings, and data
have been supplied by courtesy of Colt Industries, Firearms Division.
Due to the similarity between Colt's D, E, and I frame revolvers, Volume I combines them, and covers the
majority of the many models built on these frames. However, the author strongly points out that, even
though the smaller D frame models can be considered similar to the larger frame E and I models in many
respects, they are not the same. The text clearly details the differences.
Although, for the most part, Kuhnhausen's manuals were originally assembled with shop training in mind,
they soon became exceptionally valuable as easy gunsmithing references when questions came up at the
bench, as they inevitably do. These informative shop manuals are presented in a step by step sequence,
just as you would normally go through fitting or refitting work at the bench.
The Colt Double Action Revolver. A Shop Manual. Volume I- is a practical repair manual, and a package
of ready information. The first section covers disassembly, inspection, basic checks, parts identification,
and interior servicing. It then goes on with reassembly, fitting and refitting details, further parts checks,
and basic repairs. A troubleshooting guide is included. D, E, and I model differences are discussed and
illustrated throughout. Safety and common sense are continually stressed.
The heavily detailed second section contains the most often requested shop work, and discusses the fine
points of advanced bench and shop gunsmithing techniques. In this section, the author devotes more
attention to the details of frame, barrel, crane, and cylinder work. Forcing cone work, and the tools
needed to do it, is covered as well. Parts diagrams for current, intermediate, and older models are included
at the back of the manual.
This manual covers nearly everything the gunsmith or armourer needs to know about repairing and
refitting Colt's D, E, and I frame double action revolvers. It is the most complete gunsmithing work on
these models we have ever seen.
-The Editors
7
About Colt's D, E, and I frame double action revolversThe events of history tell us that the swing-out cylinder double action revolver was a very difficult critter
to invent- that is, difficult for everybody other than the design department people at the Colt Firearms
Company.
A double action revolver with a cylinder that would swing out for loading and unloading was still a
science fiction writers' dream in the year 1876. At that time, inventors and arms firms in Europe were
working largely on single action swing-out cylinder ideas. Only a few advanced arms designers were
toying with concepts that could actually lead to production swing-out cylinder double action revolvers.
But, most of those concepts involved cumbersome modifications of earlier single action revolvers.
Meanwhile in the U.S., Winchester was also experimenting with double action swing-out cylinder
designs. As it turned out, the sum of the efforts on both sides of the Atlantic amounted to very little. In the
language of today, I imagine the various projects ran out of their respective R&D budgets, and were
finally dropped, favouring other, better paying work.
This interesting situation left the entire job of inventing a marketable, swing-out cylinder, double action
revolver to the Colt Firearms Company. And that's exactly what they did.
The first Colt principle patents were issued sometime in December 1881.
The first prototype patent was assigned to Colt's Firearms Co., in August 1884.
Colt's first production double action, swing-out cylinder revolver was the Model of 1889. Colt designated
this revolver the Model 1889 Navy.
The 1892, 94, 95, 96, 1901, and 1903 models followed. Essentially, all of these revolvers were
improvements on the original Ml889. Even the rare USMC Model of 1905 was basically a Model 1889
Navy, with improvements.
These early Colt revolvers were the evolutional forerunners of the later medium size E frame revolvers
such as the Army Special, Official Police, Officer's Model Target, and Officer's Model Match. The very
first of this series, the Army Special Model [introduced in 1908], standardized medium frame hand and
sideplate position on the left side of the frame. This standardized medium frame cylinder rotation in the
clockwise direction. Earlier models were opposite rotation. In turn, the original Trooper model, the .357
Magnum model, and finally the Python, evolved from the E, and were designated as I frame models.
Colt's smaller D frame revolvers also evolved directly from an ancestor called the New Pocket Model .32
of 1893. Interestingly enough, manufacturing changes in these revolvers had actually standardized
clockwise cylinder rotation in the small frames in 1903, well before standardization occurred in the
medium E type frames. Incidentally, the "D"-frame designation was not used by the factory until 1947.
No one I've talked to at Colt seems to remember just when the "E" model designation was assigned.
8
In 1905, the positive lock system was introduced across the existing Colt double action line. This addition
created the Pocket Positive .32, and the Police Positive in both .32 and .38 calibres. These revolvers were
followed by the Police Positive Special [.38 special, with 1 5/8" cylinder] in 1908, and later by the
Detective Special, Bankers' Special, Cobra [first aluminium D frame], Air Crewman, Courier, Agent, and
Border Patrol models. The last D frame variation was the Diamondback model, introduced in 1966. The
first medium frame incorporating the positive locking system was the Army Special, introduced in 1908.
Colt's superb large frame revolvers, although not included or mechanically discussed in this book, are
mentioned because of their historic design similarity, shared features, and direct relationship to both the
small and medium frame models. They are, in fact, a chunk of the same development history. These large
frame double action revolvers originated with the New Service Model of 1898. By the end of production,
they had been manufactured in numerous model variations and chambered for 18 different cartridges.
New Service revolvers manufactured after 1905 and the introduction of the positive lock system are
referred to as "new" or "improved" models. Best known New Service Model variations are the Ml909
Army, Navy, and USMC models, the Shooting Master, and the M1917 U.S. Army model, in .45 ACP.
Production ended in 1944. Colt has not produced a large frame double action revolver since that date. The
absence of this model is truly a pity, particularly since the .45 Colt cartridge has been re-discovered by a
new generation of sport shooters and by law enforcement agencies, as well.
A chronology of Colt D.A. revolvers and improvements:
1877 -Colt Lightning Model, Colt's first double action
1878 -Colt D.A. Frontier Model 1881 -D.A. swing-out cylinder patents 1884 -Prototype model patented
1889 -New D.A. Navy Model
1892 -D.A. cylinder bolt slots added
1892 1894, 1895, 1896, 1901, 1903 Army and Navy Model updates
1893 -New Pocket Model .32 1896 -New Police Model .32
1898 -New Service Model/Shooting Master
1903 -New Pocket Model, cylinder revolution clockwise
1904 -Officer's Model
1905 -USMC Model [Updated variation of 1889 Navy] 1905 -Introduction of positive lock system
1905 -Improved New Service Model
1905 -Pocket Positive Model
1905 -Police Positive .32 and .38
1908 -Clockwise rotation standardized, medium frames
1908 -Army Special
1908 -Police Positive Special [.38 Spl., 1 5/8" cylinder]
1909 -Large frame Ml909 Army, Navy, USMC models
1910 -Police Positive .22 Target
9
1917
1921
1927
1927
1928
1942
1949
1950
1951
1952
1952
1953
1953
1954
1954
1955
1966
1969
1969
1977
1984
1986
-Large frame M1917 U.S. Army, .45 ACP

-Camp Perry Model
-Official Police Model
-Detective Special Model
-Banker's Special Model 1930 -Official Police .22 Model 1930 -Officer's Model Target 1933 Pequano Model
-Commando Model [WW II]
-Officer's Model Special Target
-Cobra L.W. aluminium frame
-Aircrewman [experimental series]
-Officer's Model Match
-Border Patrol Model
-Courier Model
-.357 Magnum Model
-Marshall Model
-Trooper [original model]
-Python Model 1962 -Agent Model
-Diamondback Model
-Mark III [J frame series] introduced
-Mark III Officer's Model Match
-Viper Model
-Mark V series introduced
-King Cobra Model introduced
-Colt Python product photo courtesy Colt Industries, Firearms Division

The Colt logo is a registered trademark of Colt Firearms
The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I
10
Ammunition Chart for Colt Arms
Figure A- Historical ammunition listing reprinted from an early Colt catalogue, circa 1930. Standard
chamberings for many of the early Colt models are listed. Other calibres/chamberings were available on a
special order basis. The majority of the above models and chamberings are now factory discontinued.
-Photo courtesy Colt Industries, Firearms Division
11
How Colt Fire Arms are Made

Every bar of steel used in Colt Fire Arms manufacture is compounded and rolled at the Steel Mills in
accord with Colt specifications. Materials are not only carefully selected but are subjected to the most
scientific analyses and tests by trained engineers and heat treated by expert
metal hardeners. Parts are micrometer gauged for absolute accuracy, finishing
operations carefully checked and assembly of arms accomplished by expert
workmen. Finally, each arm is adjusted, proof tested, and shot or targeted by
experienced marksmen to determine accuracy and exactness of operation,
before it is put through the final inspection and is entitled to have stamped
upon it the little triangular "Verified Proof" mark.
A brief description of some of the thousand operations necessary to produce a Colt Revolver or
Automatic Pistol will suffice to show what infinite care and skill is given to every step in their
manufacture. From a forge a workman draws a bar of glowing steel. Under a thudding drop forging
hammer it goes. The die descends with a force of several tons and the frame of a
revolver or automatic pistol is roughly shaped. Blow after blow it receives, each
fixing more firmly the fibres of the steel. Deftly the metal is turned over and over as
the descending die beats the tough steel into an unbreakable mass. Similarly, but of
different steels, each selected for its peculiar properties of toughness or hardness,
are forged the hammer, trigger, crane and other parts.
In another department a skilled mechanic operates a machine which cuts the
blanks from which revolver cylinders are made. This same automatic machine,
which operates with uncanny dexterity, trues up the outer surface of the blank and
bores the center hole; the chambers are then machine-reamed, grooved and
counter-bored for ratchet and coupling and then the final operation of hand reaming
is performed.
To follow the progress of a revolver barrel through its many delicate operations
from one skilled workman to another is to repeat the experience of the cylinder. In
rifling the barrel, a feature of vast importance, Colt's acknowledge no equal. By an
ingenious method the rifling of the barrel is spiralled in a direction opposite to the
thread that fastens it to the frame so that a bullet passing through the barrel tends to
keep the barrel tight in the frame.
-Courtesy Colt Firearms
12
The Colt One-Piece Frame which constitutes practically the entire bulk of the Arm,
is forged from one solid piece of steel into the forward end of which the barrel is
permanently fastened by means of a tapered thread. There are no joints or hinges to
impair its strength or disturb the permanent alignment of cylinder chambers with
barrel. This construction insures absolute rigidity and unusual durability.
All Colt Revolver cylinders turn right. This feature alone marks the Colt as the
greatest achievement in revolver manufacture. Years ago Colt's discarded the left
revolving cylinder as impractical because of liability to force the cylinder chamber out of line with the
barrel causing a certain amount of the bullet to be sheared off by the barrel. No Arm can possibly be
accurate unless the chamber and barrel are in perfect line. Right turning holds the crane tightly against the
frame the cylinder chamber and barrel always in absolute line for every shot.
THE COLT POSITIVE LOCK
The Colt Positive Lock operates automatically between the frame and the face of the hammer in all Colt
double-action revolvers. It requires no manipulation by the operator, hence the
expression: "You can't forget to make a Colt Safe." When the trigger is drawn back
as the hammer is cocked or drawn to a rearward position the positive lock or safety
is drawn downward permitting the full blow of the hammer to fall directly upon the
primer of the cartridge if the trigger is held in this position. At all other times the
Positive Lock prevents the hammer nose from coming into contact with the primer.
Figure B- Early two page Colt advertisement discusses the, by-now obvious, quality of Colt's double
action revolvers. The above reference to the "Colt one- piece revolver frame" [plus sideplate] points out
the difference in strength between solid frame revolvers and hinged break top types. Colt's aim was to
supply the best, and make sure the customer knew the difference.
13
14
15
Figure E- Illustration shows intermediate and late Colt D, E, and I model revolvers. The original Trooper
model, shown, is an I frame. Later Mark III Troopers were built on J and V frames. -Courtesy Colt
Firearms, Colt logo is a trademark of Colt Firearms
16
Colt's Police Python
Model 1-3 specifications

Calibre
Barrel
Lgth.
Over- all
Lgth.
Wgt. (Ozs.)
Sights
Trigger
Hammer Spur
Stock
Finish
.357 Mag
25"
75"
39
925"
1125"
41
44
Adjustable rear sight.

Ramp-type front sight,
Grooved
4"
6"
Fast-cocking wide-spur, Checkered walnut, square butt,

checkered
target stocks, "gold" medallion.
Service stocks on 25"
Colt
Royal
Blue
Nickel
plate
optional
at
additional
cost.
BALLISTICS PERFORMANCE
CARTRIDGE
VELOCITY- FEET PER

SECOND
BULLET
Wgt.
Grs.
158
158*
158
Style
Muzzle
Soft Point 1550

Metal
1410
Point
Lead
1410
50 Yds.
100 Yds.
1380
123C
ENERGY- FOOT
POUNDS
50
100
Muzzle
Yds.
Yds.
845
665
530
1240
1120
695
540
1240
1120
695
540
MID-RANGE
TRAJECTORY
TEST BARREL
LGTH.
50 Yds.
100 Yds.
0.5"
2.5"
8375
440
0.6"
2.8"
8375"
440
0.6"
2.8"
8375"
Figure F- An early Colt Police Python specification sheet. This model, now simply called the Python, is
the only I frame model in production at this time. In my estimation, the Colt Python stands as the ultimate
double action revolver design. -Courtesy Colt Firearms
17
About gunsmithing the Colt double action revolverBefore 1950, virtually every revolversmith was familiar with the fine points of operation, repair, and
action timing of Colt's double action revolvers. In those days, a revolversmith who didn't know his Colts
was thought not to know very much about anything. Not that much repair work was needed. Colt
revolvers left the factory then, as now, well fit and finished, detail inspected, and stamped by both the
builder and final inspector. Reputations were on the line.
Revolversmiths and general gunsmiths alike owned Colts, and couldn't help but be familiar with them.
From the beginning, revolversmiths were fascinated by the excellent design, high quality steel, and
incredibly well made parts. Colts were brought in for re-bluing, custom trigger and sight work, or for an
occasional lost part, jiggered screw, broken spring, or new holster. Owners survived by and swore by Colt
revolvers, and knew that you couldn't really wear one out. You'd have to throw your revolver in the creek
to damage it- and nobody in his right mind would do that.
Probably this overall familiarity with Colt's revolvers had as much to do with their long and successful
history [starting with the Patterson Model of 1836] as did their superb product quality and reliability. All
this had been going on for so long that, by WW II, this knowledge had become even more than just a
tradition, it was the way things were: it was reality.
But the emergence of WW II changed this aspect of history, as it did everything else. And, of necessity,
military contracts preoccupied the factory through the M-16/AR-15 era, causing Colt's market
aggressiveness in both the civilian, and law enforcement market areas to wane. This left the majority of
such sales to other companies and products.
By the mid-1980's, revolver smithing traffic had largely vested in other brands and models. The old Colt
revolver familiarity was almost gone. Forty years had passed since the end of WW II. Retiring armourers,
gunsmiths, and law enforcement people had taken most of their practical Colt knowledge with them.
By now, Colt's D, E, and I model double action revolvers seem complicated to many otherwise fully
competent gunsmiths. Some even hold Colt's D.A. revolver actions, and particularly the Python action, in
a sort of mechanical awe, thinking of them as unfathomable "Swiss watch" mechanisms.
Other than a single brief pamphlet intended primarily for law enforcement armourers, the factory has
never put out a service manual on their double actions, or on any of their revolvers, for that matter. Early
on, since just about everybody seemed to know how they worked, manuals didn't seem necessary.
In actuality, Colt D, E and I frame actions are basically straightforward and simple. They may seem
complicated at first, but are very quickly learned by closely observing the basic interaction of the parts;
such as cylinder bolt and rebound lever, trigger and safety linkage, hand and ratchet, etc. In fact,
observing both correct and incorrect bolt and rebound function in a cutaway revolver is the best way to
familiarize yourself with this pivotal action function.
18
The real value of cut-away revolvers in all aspects of revolver

smithing, action work and training is never more evident than on the
subject of D, E and I model revolver rebound lever fitting and bolt
timing. A cutaway revolver can visually and simply explain all action,
and action timing, problems. Nearly every parts interaction can be
fully demonstrated. For example, a cut-off rebound lever can easily
demonstrate "hammer on" and "hammer off" the rebound lever- and
related fitting requirements, at a glance.
19
Figure S1- Action safety features are shown in a late model stainless steel Python. The inset illustrationcourtesy Colt Firearms, shows the positive lock safety system used by Colt since 1905. This basic design,
used throughout D, E, and I production, has been updated to accommodate later style hammers.
A. The trigger actuated upper safety [or safety hammer block] stays in place between the hammer
and frame, until physically lowered by:
1. Cocking the hammer in single action
2. Squeezing the trigger in double action mode
After firing the revolver, or indexing the action, the returning trigger, by way of the connected safety
lever, returns the upper safety to its positive hammer block position.
B. The rebound lever cycles [or rebounds] the hammer back after firing, and:
1. Withdraws the hammer and firing pin to a safe rear position behind the frame [or recoil plate in
D and E models]
2. Returns the trigger and cycles the safety lever and upper safety [hammer block] into the positive
lock position between frame and hammer
C. The bottom arm of the mainspring is also a part of the safety system in that it supplies rebound
lever spring pressure, which in turn:
1. Rebounds the hammer, withdrawing the firing pin
2. Returns the trigger and hand
3. The trigger, in turn, cycles the safety lever and the upper safety back to the positive lock,
blocked hammer position
To be doubly safe in the field, load one round less than a full cylinder, and then make 100% sure the empty chamber
is under the hammer. This conservative habit dates back to frontier single action days- and helps demonstrate that the
best safety feature is a careful owner. This is true, without exception, even though no firearm of any style or brand
has been known to point or function on its own. It's a simple matter of cause and effect. Somebody has to do the
causing...
20
REALLY NOW, WERE YOU GOING TO SKIP THIS PAGE?

A Gunsmith's Safety Rules- Or How To Stay Out Of Trouble, And Out Of Court, At The Same Time.
1. NEVER alter, or remove, any safety feature from any gun, EVER. If the owner
insists, let him do it, then it's strictly his liability- and not yours.
2. DON'T work on any gun with a safety part removed, unless the work includes
correct reinstallation of the safety.
3. FOR your protection, always keep records of work done.
4. IF you begin work on a gun that you determine is not reliably repairable (or even
just inspect a gun not in good working order) even if it's for a best friend (or for
free) always write "WARNING- NOT SAFE TO FIRE" on the shop ticket.
5. DON'T do patch-job repairs. Do it right, or skip it.
6. DON'T work for people who insist on substandard work. These are the ones who
will want it redone later (and for nothing) and will probably sue you for any
mishap.
7. NEVER trust anybody, THAT GUN IS ALWAYS LOADED!
8. NEVER hand, or take, a gun- unless you have personally checked its
chamber(s).
9. NEVER point any gun, except at a target.
10. NEVER believe what someone says about the condition of any gun, until you
have fully inspected it yourself.
11. NO dry firing without spent shells, or snap caps, no matter WHO says it's O.K!
12. NEVER forget to check for barrel obstructions or bulges. Just do it- it's only
common sense.
13. FOLLOW these safety rules, after all, the life you save may be your own.
14. THINK it through first, it always saves time later.
If you violate these simple rules, you will, sooner or later, pay the price for it.
21
BEFORE DISASSEMBLY
Don't disassemble a revolver brought in for servicing or repair before you have gained an overall idea of
what could be right or wrong with it, and what work might be needed. Experienced armourers and
gunsmiths always take the necessary few minutes to pre-check a revolver, generally following a list much
like the one below. Before the sideplate is removed, a detailed pre-check sequence helps them focus on
the action area, or part, that may be causing a problem. Usually, a few minutes taken in the beginning will
save a lot of time later.
Also, something else to watch for is the little chip, broken-off corner, or piece of hard grit that has lodged
somewhere inside and is creating problems. In a hurry, you might drop out a small particle such as this as
you remove the sideplate, missing where it came from, and as well, any possible damage that it may have
caused. In some cases, these small particles have been found to be sharp fragments or corners broken off
sears or hammer engagement ledges. Of course, the broken part must be replaced. Any damage caused by
contact with the fragment should be found and corrected. For these reasons, it's not a bad idea to take a
few minutes to read through the following pre-check list:
Before Disassembly Pre-Check List:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
Move cylinder latch- sticky? open- close OK?

Check cylinder- open and close OK? rough? smooth?
Spin cylinder- sticky? OK? is the ejector rod straight?
Twist ejector rod or rod head- loose? OK?
Push ejector rod- smooth? drag? returns OK?
Examine ejector star, pins, and ratchet- sideplay on pins? OK?
Check cylinder front- barrel hits? nicks? other? OK?
Check cylinder fit- endplay OK? is bolt lock-up OK?
Check bolt- instant pick-up? is drop on time?
With cylinder open, check feel of single and double action- OK?
Close cylinder, repeat S.A. & D.A. check- stiffer? or about the same?
Slow and fast D.A. check- does cylinder bolt lock before hammer falls?
Feel mainspring- seem weak? OK? any hand/cylinder bind? OK?
Check hammer push-off, from rear and both sides- OK?
Check trigger pull- as specified for model?
Visual internal safety check- is it installed? drags? OK?
Check barrel fit in frame- loose? tight? at 12:00 O'clock?
Inspect forcing cone, hand, recoil plate, and firing pin extension- OK?
Inspect bore- obstructed? bulged? scored? visible wear? rust? OK?
Inspect muzzle crown- nicked? dented? recut? OK?
Check trigger, hammer- drag marks? firing pin bent? OK?
Note sideplate condition- removed before? played with? screws OK?
Check sights- modified? loose? are pins and adjusting screws OK?
Note general appearance- worn? scratched? dents? rusty? like new?
Likely as not, it will take you the better part of a half hour the first time you go through the above list
seriously, with a revolver in hand- but make it a habit, anyway. Make pre-checking second nature just like
it is with all good revolversmiths. Later on, you'll do it in minutes.

MAKE SURE YOU SEE
DAYLIGHT THROUGH ALL
CHAMBER POSITIONS
CYCLE EJECTOR ROD
22
PULL BACK
CYLINDER
LATCH
VISUALLY
CHECK
CHAMBERS
Figure 1- The illustration shows the cylinder open- and the

revolver's unloaded status being positively verified. This basic
step is always first in firearms handling and revolver smithing.
Viewing a closed cylinder from the side is as unreliable as
taking someone's word that the revolver is unloaded. Never
rely on a side view.
Figure 2- Shows a Colt target style revolver grip. The stock

screw nut is located in the right panel. A stuck screw can twist
the nut loose inside the grip panel. A drop of penetrating oil
can help loosen stuck threads. Service and target style grip
screws are shown below. Pre- grind screwdriver blades to fit
screw slots.
Begin Disassembly
Always start with a clean bench. Get
rid of any sharp chips that may be left
over from earlier drilling, milling, or
filing. Carefully remove any polishing
grit or other surface damaging
material. Customers, and even friends,
become rightfully irate when scratches
accompany repair work. That you
didn't charge for the scratches makes
very little difference. Best bench
covers for finish protection are:
reversed leather, felt, or 3/16" outdoor
carpet. All are equally useful, but only
to the extent that the working surface
is kept 100% clean. As you
disassemble, box all parts with their
original frames: otherwise, mated and
specially fit action parts can be mixed
up, and screws, pins, and springs
misplaced.
Warning: Before starting work, or
moving the hammer or trigger, always
confirm unloaded status. Don't work
on it until daylight is visible through
all six chambers. The hazard created
by a crimped .32 revolver or .380 auto
round pushed part way down a
chamber is very real. If a cylinder like
this was placed in a hot bluing tank,
the accident potential could be great.
A gunsmith can miss this kind of thing
by just not expecting to see it. Remove
Grip [Stock] Screw If not well ground
and fit, frozen grip screw threads can
cause a screwdriver blade to roll out,
damaging the slot. See figures 2 and 3.
Rusty threads may cause the stock
screw nut to spin inside the grip. Prelubrication helps.
23
Remove Grips
Colt grip screws have been made in
two styles: service type [small heads
with wide slots], and target type [large
heads with thin slots]. See figure 2.
Avoid both grip finish and screw slot
damage by using correctly ground, full
slot fitting screwdrivers. Inexpensive
grinding fixtures are made for this
purpose. See figure 3.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Dress screwdriver blade edges

[width], as required to prevent
grip finish damage.
Then, while holding firm down
pressure, loosen the grip screw
and twist out.
When resistant, first pre- lube the
threads with a thin penetrating
oil, then rap the handle of the
screwdriver sharply before
rotating.
Don't attempt to pry grips off.
Once the grip screw is loose,
instead, push it back in with the
screwdriver tip. This pushes the
grip off the frame on the back
side, and without marking.
Remove the opposite grip from
the inside.
Figure 3- Shows a screwdriver tip being hollow ground to

correct slot fit on a bench grinder using an MMC blade fixture.
This excellent and handy fixture easily produces precision,
parallel faced blades and perfectly square tips. This is a
necessary pistol smithing step. Some screw slots won't give
you a second chance.
Frozen Grip Screws

Sometimes, grip screws are frozen or
rusted to the extent that they spin the
stock nut inside the grip. If the grips
are to be salvaged, there is only one
workable remedy:
1.
Carefully centre punch and drill

out the frozen screw threads.
Prevent spin by holding and
backing up the screw head with a
Magnatip screwdriver bit
chucked in a drill press vice.
This method can save serviceable
grips.
2.
After removing the screw,
push the opposite grip off with a 1/16"
punch.
Figure 4- Shows the right grip being removed by correctly

pushing it off the frame with the grip screw. A frozen grip
screw can be drilled free of a spun stock nut. If overall
condition makes the stocks worth saving, a replacement stock
nut can be retained by cementing it in with Microbed or
Acraglas bedding compound.
24
Remove Crane Lock Screw [Early
Style]
Early style crane lock detents are
easily identified by their side
positioned, interlocking detent screws.
See figure 6. This original locking
system was used by the factory for
over 50 years. Colt replaced this
system with the much simpler present
design, as a first step in what became
the late style crane and cylinder
assembly update package. With the
older Colt double action models now
becoming even more collectible, extra
care in preserving finish is suggested.
For this reason, correct, hollow ground
screw drivers are an absolute must.
1.
Figure 5- Shows an early style crane lock screw and crane lock
detent. The two interlock and fit the frame with almost zero
clearance. For this reason, dried oil varnish tends to glue the
lock detent in place, making the screw seem frozen. Inset
illustration shows correct hollow ground blade contact at the
bottom of the screw slot.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Figure 6- Shows an early style crane lock screw and crane lock
detent body, after removal. The detent extractor ring machined
into the screw [looks like a washer] withdraws the detent body
as the screw rotates out. Ring damage can bind the lock screw,
making twist out difficult. A few drops of oil around the screw
head helps.
Adjust screwdriver blade grind to

bottom blade contact as
illustrated in figure 5. This helps
prevent flaring the screw slot
and/or chipping the edges of a
plated finish.
While holding firm down
pressure, rap the screwdriver
handle impact driver style, and
rotate the screw out.
If resistive, place a few drops of
penetrating oil on and around the
screw, wait a few minutes, then
twist out.
In cases where either the lock
screw or lock detent [or both] are
stuck, don't attempt to force the
screw. Instead, use the screwjack
or drill press frozen screw
removal method as discussed in
detail in figures 9 and 10.
Always use a support and
levelling block similar to the one
illustrated in figure 8. Whether
early or late model, the crane
lock screw is the single most
visible screw on the entire
revolver.
25
Remove Crane Lock Screw [Late

Style]
Late type crane lock screws are
counterbored, and have shallower
screw slots than the older style. For
this reason, screwdriver fit is just as
important with late style lock screws:
though wider, there is less available
screwdriver slot depth. Although all
late D and E/I lock screw thread
diameters are the same, D model crane
lock screws run .015-.020" shorter,
and can, with lot variations, have
smaller blade engagements. As a rule,
these fine [.250"- 40 TPI] screws will
come out with very little resistance.
But when thread damaged, galled, or
rusted, they will not. Screwdrivers roll
out, slots damage easily, and nickel
plated screws look all the worse. With
late crane lock screws, a good rule is:
when stiff or resistant, skip the impact
step- use the drill press or screwjack
method to get them out. See figs.
9&10. A Handy Bench Block You
may get only one chance to remove a
stuck screw. A bench block-levelling
support is needed when using screw
slot impact and/or screw slot pressure
to loosen a thread. The work must be
held at 90 degrees to the screwdriver
bit, so the working force is not
weakened or diverted. A non-abrasive
bench block placed under the frame
can also help preserve the finish. The
block is easiest made from nylon or
Teflon, but much longer lasting when
made from aluminium. See figure 8. A
two-sided block handles D and E/I
frames.
Figure 7- Shows a late style crane lock screw installed in a late

model frame. These screws are larger in diameter and are
recessed on the inside to receive and guide the late type lock
detent and spring. The detent and spring are located directly
under the lock screw. The late crane lock subassembly is
illustrated below.
Figure 8- Illustration shows a bench and shop levelling support

block used to hold the frame at 90 degrees to the screwdriver
blade when impact loosening resistive screws, or when using a
screwjack or drill press to remove frozen screws. These blocks,
easily made from plastic or aluminium, also help protect frame
finish.
Figure 9- Shows a frame set up on a drill press table for stuck

screw removal. The frame is supported on an aluminium
levelling block. A correctly fit hollow ground Magna-Tip
screwdriver blade is chucked in the drill press and held in the
slot with firm down pressure. The screw is then hand twisted
out. See Fig. 10.
26
Removing Stuck Screws
Generally, most stuck and resistant
screws aren't rusted, galled, or cross
threaded at all, but just cemented in
with a mixture of dried oil varnish and
hardened dirt. With the tougher
resistive cases, begin by preimmersing the entire revolver [less the
grips] in a penetrating oil. Typically, a
really frozen screw will be found with
damaged and/or rusted threads as well.
With these, the removal methods
shown in figs. 9 & 10 are the only way
to get the job done. When screw slots
have been damaged, but enough of the
head still remains, use an extra narrow
cape chisel to re-establish the slot.
Caution: Don't use heat to loosen
stuck or frozen screws. Warming the
frame slightly before immersing it in
oil has seldom helped. If taken too far,
heat treat will be altered and frame
finish damaged. Removing Broken
Screws Occasionally, you may find a
severely damaged or broken screw
head left behind from a previous
removal attempt. If what's left of the
head won't rotate, nothing can be done
until it is removed. These are the
remedies:
1.
2.
3.
Figure 10- Shows a bench set-up for frozen screw removal,

using a basic screwjack. This tool removes any screw with
enough slot area that can be addressed at 90 degrees and that is
not rust welded. The top section of this screw jack is from BSquare. The base was replaced with a larger plate to hold a
levelling block.
For sideplates and old style crane

screws: align the frame and mill
to the bottom of the original
counterbore.
With late style crane screws: first
allow for thread diameter, and
then mill just enough to release
the detent inside. After that, mill
only enough to clear the old
screw
Then, on exact original centre,
drill to tapping size and re-tap
the threads.
27
Remove Crane and Cylinder

Assembly
When the crane is fully open, rearward
movement of a Colt D, E, and I frame
cylinder is additionally limited by the
cylinder stop lug on the outer wall of
the sideplate. This is particularly true
with late style cylinder assemblies.
With these, when the front section of
the ejector rod has been unscrewed,
the stop lug is the sole retainer when
the cylinder is swung out. Colt D, E,
and I model crane and cylinder
assemblies were designed for removal
while together by simply drawing the
combination forward and off the
frame, after removing the crane lock
detent. For this reason, Colt's D.A
revolver cylinder flutes are just a bit
longer than other revolvers. Flute
lengths will vary between models and,
as well, between early and late
cylinder types, but are always just
long enough to allow for crane guide
clearance at the front of the frame.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
After the crane lock screw and

detent have been removed, hinge
the cylinder open until the crane
stop rests on the frame.
Rotate the cylinder to align the
closest flute with the raised crane
guide at the front of the frame.
Then draw the assembled crane
and cylinder straight forward and
out.
If necessary, lift up slightly as
the crane stem clears the frame.
If the crane stem is resistant,
loosen by working in a few drops
of oil before drawing the stem
out.
Figure 11- Shows a Colt Diamondback cylinder and crane

hinged out 90 degrees, with the crane stop against the frame.
The assembly is now ready for removal. When the sideplate is
on, Colt D, E, and I frame double action revolver design
requires that the crane and cylinder assembly be removed from
the frame together.
Figure 12- Shows an early Colt Official Police model cylinder

at the 90 degree open position. The bottom cylinder flute recess
is lined up with the crane guide extension on the frame, so that
the cylinder will clear as it is withdrawn. The crane and
cylinder assembly are now ready to pull straight forward, and
off the frame.
28
Remove Sideplate Screws
Sideplate screws are found in every
possible condition and tightness.
Screws with heads intact will usually
unthread easily. Removing sideplate
screws with rounded-off heads or
blurred or otherwise damaged
screwdriver slots always requires extra
care.
1.
2.
3.
Figure 13- Shows an I frame revolver ready for sideplate screw

removal. The screwdriver blade shown below has been hollow
ground to exactly fit the screw slots. The blade edges have
been trimmed and dulled to prevent damage to the sideplate.
Circular gouges around sideplate screws are both
unprofessional and unsightly.
Figure 14- Shows the correct strike zone for removing snug
Colt revolver sideplates with impact vibration. The grip frame
is rapped sharply to set up the vibration necessary to overcome
the mechanical friction holding the sideplate in position.
Warning: prying sideplates off can flare edges and may bend
the plate.
Grind screwdrivers to fit before

use. See figs. 3 & 13.
If a screw is resistant, add oil
around the head. Rap the
screwdriver handle and then
twist, applying firm down
pressure with the blade held
squarely in the screw slot.
When stuck or frozen, see figures
9 and 10 for removal.
About Sideplate Removal

Since the removal of any double
action revolver's side plate is a basic
and simple job, it might seem that
very few would be found in a flared,
dented, or otherwise damaged
condition. But that isn't always the
way it is. Non-professionals still
manage to pry and drop damage side
plates with some regularity. And,
sometimes, the problem is worsened
when damaged plates are reinstalled
without straightening or refitting.
When a damaged sideplate is forced
back on, particularly one with an edge
dent, repair becomes a bit more
involved because the original damage
then transfers to the frame. Early Colt
revolver sideplates are hand fit and
must be removed with care. The rule
is: Never pry on a sideplate. See
figures 14, 15, and 16. Since the
beginning, the best sideplate removing
tools have been: a wooden hammer
handle and your left thumb.
29
Remove Sideplate
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
After the screws have been taken

out, begin side plate removal by
holding the frame firmly, with
the plate side facing up.
Place your thumb on the
sideplate and latch to prevent
bounce, parts loss and sideplate
damage. See figure 15.
Hold the revolver over the bench
to prevent damage. In the event
the sideplate escapes your grip, it
won't land on the floor.
Sharply rap the grip frame, using
the wood handle of a 6 or 8
ounce ball peen, or brass
hammer, as shown in figures 14
and 16. When correct impact is
used, the sideplate will easily
vibrate up and out of its frame
recess without edge damage.
Damaged, forced and/or oil stuck
sideplates usually require much
sharper impact vibrations to
loosen. Being harder, a plastic
screwdriver handle will impart a
higher vibration and do the job.
Figure 15- Shows thumb retaining both latch and sideplate,

with the plate ready for removal. A light pressure keeps the
sideplate and latch from bouncing off. In this way, plate
damage is prevented, and the latch, spring, and guide will not
be dropped or lost. This tension also holds the sideplate and
prevents frame edge nicks.
About Early & Intermediate D, E,

and I Sideplates
Even though machined, these
sideplates were factory hand fit to a
hairline junction with their frames.
Some of these sideplates may have
been in place since the beginning of
the century, and will require higher
impacts to loosen. Without thumb
pressure on the sideplate, they can be
easily chatter nicked as they separate.
This caution is of particular
importance with early collectibles,
since the extremely flat sides and
unforgiving mirror finish on many
early models will show even the
slightest blemish.
Figure 16- Shows a frame being held in the "latch retained"

position. A wooden hammer handle is used to impact loosen
the sideplate. The wood handle creates a softer vibration,
which helps minimize edge damage as a tight sideplate springs
free. This is important with highly finished early and
intermediate models.

Compress early wide-knee mainsprings before removing.
Figure 17- Shows a late type E/I mainspring being slipped

sideways at the spring knee for removal from the frame. Except
for size, late D and E/I mainsprings are quite similar. Early D
and E mainsprings [wider at the knee] should be compressed,
as shown, before removing. Offset needle nose pliers are useful
for this job.
30
Remove Mainspring
With the sideplate off, the next step is
to remove the double leaf mainspring.
Late type mainsprings are easily
removed by first pushing the spring
knee out of the frame, and by then
catching the spring's rebound leg with
a thumb. With early wide knee type
mainsprings this is difficult to do, and
is not recommended, because it places
undue torque on both the main spring
connector fingers and the hammer's
stirrup. Being hardened, the
mainspring fingers are the first to
fatigue and break. Compressing the
spring first allows removal without
bind or torque. See figure 17.
1. Compress old style springs at
centre, and just enough to allow
easy movement.
2. Hold compression, and unhook
the connector fingers from the
hammer stirrup. Then remove the
spring.
Remove Cylinder Hand
Once the mainspring has been
removed, the rebound lever and hand
are no longer under tension.
But, with well fit actions, the rebound
lever's cam will be in contact with the
actuator tip at the bottom of the bolt
tang. The hand is removed at this time
to drop the rebound lever away from
the bolt actuator tip. See fig. 18. The
hand is easily removed by lifting the
rebound lever and drawing the hand
up and out of the frame. Since we're
dealing with critically fit action parts,
always make sure the hand is kept
with its parent frame and other mated
parts.
Figure 18- Shows cylinder hands now ready for removal in an I

frame, at left, and a D frame, at right. Tension on the hand is
relieved by lifting the rebound lever slightly. Removing the
hand at this time drops the rebound lever and its cam away
from the cylinder bolt tang, and makes rebound removal easier.
31
Remove Rebound Lever and Precheck Pivot Pin Fit

The rebound lever should be removed
after the hand. Taking the hand out
first relieves all tension from the lever
during removal of the rebound pivot
pin, and allows a pre-check of rebound
pivot pin fit in the frame. A tight, or
extra tight, pivot pin usually indicates
that the pivot pin hole is distorted or
the frame is slightly bent or tweaked at
the pin hole. There are two rebound
pivot pin sizes: E/I frame pivot pins
measure about .120" in diameter,
while D frame pins measure just at
.100". Examine these pins closely.
When undersized or short, pins can
slip to one side of the frame- and
especially in the thinner grip frame D
models. Also, incorrect and poor
fitting grips may let a loose pin move
to one side. When this happens, the
usual result is that mainspring pressure
then cants and binds the partially
unsupported rebound lever. At that
point, action function frequently
becomes erratic. In some cases, action
jams can result. This subject is
discussed now, because pin fit must be
checked at this time, and particularly
if the revolver has a history of odd
action problems, jams, or was found
erratic on the original action precheck. The usual cause of odd rebound
problems with D frames is a wrong
pin and/or poor fitting grips.
Sometimes, a loose pin, if long
enough, will be retained on centre if
the correct grips hold it in place.
Figure 19- Shows a late I frame positioned on a bench block.

The snug rebound pivot pin is set up for drifting out with a
1/16" punch. Pivot pins can range from snug enough to need a
tap to get them out, to slightly loose. Most can be punched out
by hand. Distorted frame pin holes are the usual cause of tight
rebound pivot pins.
Before reinstalling the rebound, frame tight pivot ends must be

corrected
Figure 20- Shows close views of E/I and D type frames with
rebound pivot pins pushed out. The pivot ends of both rebound
levers are offset, out of their frame slots, and now ready for
lifting out. Caution: When a pivot pin is found loose or too
short, make note of it, since the pin will have to be replaced on
reassembly.
32
Remove Hammer
All D and E/I type hammers remove in
the same way:
1. Roll the hammer back far enough to
clear the frame.
2. Draw the hammer up and off the
frame pin.
3. If resistant, place a drop of oil on
the pin and wobble the hammer up off
the pin.
About E & I Hammers-
Figure 21- Shows a close view of an E frame and hammer after

the rebound lever and pivot pin have been removed. The
hammer assembly has been rotated back far enough for firing
pin clearance and is now ready to lift up and out of the frame.
Being very similar, D and E model hammers remove in the
same way.
The I frame hammer is a modified,

updated version of the older, standard
E type hammer and a very workable,
proven design in both service and
competition. It was top end
remodelled by the factory in the
1950's for use in the original model
Trooper, .357 Magnum, and Python
actions. A larger, target positioned
S.A. thumb spur was added, and the
hammer mounted E type firing pin
was removed. The new hammer face
was redesigned to operate an inframe, inertial type firing pin, and yet
retains nearly the same safety stop
position. The E model upper safety
was updated for use with the new I
model hammer.
Early & Late D HammersD frame hammers divide into two
basic subtypes: an early and a late
style. This is discussed here because
there is a corresponding [early and
late] difference in the safety, or
hammer blocking arm, of the safety
system that secures these hammers.
Early D type hammer safeties can be
used only with early D hammers, and
late style D safeties only with late
style D hammers. They don't mix.
Watch for mismatched or make-fit
safety system modifications. Replace
any that you find.
Figure 22- Shows a close view of a late style D frame action

interior after the hammer has been removed. The trigger, safety
lever, and late style upper safety [safety hammer block] are still
in place. Late style hammers require that matching late style
upper safeties be used. Early and late style safeties are shown
above.
33
Pre-Check Safety Assembly

Considering the upper safety
variations [hammer blocks] that have
been used in Colt's D, E, and I frames,
and with both safety and practicality
in mind, make the following safety
and linkage pre-checks while the
trigger and safety parts are still in the
frame:
1.
Does the safety assembly run

free, both in the frame and at the
boss pivot point?
2. Any drag or catch marks found
on the safety linkage, on the link
pins, or on the frame side of the
hammer?
3. Is the hammer pin boss low?
[Hammer riding safety?]
4. Is upper safety [hammer block]
position correct? Is alteration or
mis-fitting by others visible?
If any safety system problems are
found, replace the parts on
reassembly.
Figure 23- Shows a late I frame with hammer removed, ready

for safety assembly pre-check. E and I frames have used the
#50489 safety lever throughout production. A small change
made in the original E upper safety to fit I model hammers
created the #51657 upper safety used in the Python and original
Trooper.
Remove Latch Pin, Trigger, and

Safety Assembly
1.
2.
3.
If not already removed, take the

latch pin out now.
Lift up on the trigger and wiggle
the trigger and safety linkage up
out of the frame.
If the trigger and/or safety
linkage is sticky or resistant, add
oil, turn the frame over on the
bench, and rap the outside of the
frame sharply with a plastic
mallet. Never pry on a safety
part.
This leaves the cylinder bolt, pivot

screw, and spring still in the frame. If
bolt function was correct on precheck, and if a detailed cleaning is all
the work that was intended, these parts
may be left in the frame. Otherwise,
they will be removed next.
Figure 24- Shows an E frame trigger and its connected safety

assembly linkage ready to lift out of the frame. Remove the
latch pin first to get it out of the way. Caution: if the trigger
and/or safety linkage binds, or doesn't lift out easily, don't use
force. Instead, turn the frame over and rap it sharply with a
plastic mallet.
34
Remove Cylinder Bolt Spring
The small, 1/2 round groove milled
into the frame just above the trigger
window is the cylinder bolt spring
seat. Bolt spring position is fully
retained when the trigger is installed
in the frame. Remove spring as
follows:
1.
2.
Lift the bottom of the spring up,

out of the frame, while holding
the end with a finger. See figs.
25 and 26.
Slip a small screwdriver blade
between the coils, and then draw
the spring out.
Remove Bolt Pivot Screw
Figure 25- Shows a close view of an E/I type cylinder bolt,

pivot screw, and bolt spring ready for removal. The bolt spring
is taken out first. Best tools for this job are a very small screwdriver and an index finger. The screwdriver lifts the spring out
of its frame slot, and your finger tip prevents it from getting
lost.
The only possible difficulty involved

with this usually very simple job
hinges on the condition of the cylinder
bolt pivot screw. These thin screw
heads and shallow slots need more
than a little care. A correctly fit
screwdriver blade is required, as well.
This little screw usually gives you
only one chance at it before the slot
blurs out.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Grind your screwdriver to a

perfect slot fit.
Place a few drops of oil around
the bolt assembly, install the
screwdriver, rap the handle, and
twist loose.
If resistant, don't try hand
loosening the screw.
Soak the frame in a thin
penetrating oil mixture. Then
sharply rap the outside of the
frame with a plastic mallet.
[Vibration usually helps.]
Then, use a screwjack or press to
get the screw out.
Remove Cylinder Bolt
Figure 26- Shows a close view of the smaller D cylinder bolt

assembly. A thin jeweller's screwdriver can be used to lift out
the bolt spring in this frame. Note: with very little room to
work in, the D bolt spring is easier removed after the bolt pivot
screw has been taken out. D type pivot screws are larger and
easier to unscrew.
With the spring and bolt pivot screw

taken out, push the bolt head back
through the frame, and then lift out.
35
About I Frame Firing Pins

The I type, inertial firing pin is
removed before re-finishing the frame
and also when the revolver is
disassembled for detailed parts
inspection and refitting work. Just
making an external firing pin tip
inspection is not enough. Checking
extended firing pin length by pushing
the pin forward and measuring tip
protrusion is a necessary step, but
useful only with the right pin. Nothing
can substitute for proper visual
inspection of the firing pin, spring,
and stop plate assembly. Periodically,
careless gunsmiths have been known
to mis-install the small diameter
#580451 [J frame] firing pin in I
models; either because the pin will
easily drop in, or because their parts
stock has been hopelessly mixed up.
For whatever reason this is done, this
parts switch is one way only- the I pin
is too large in diameter to fit in J
frames. Also see figure 121.
Remove I Frame Firing Pin
Figure 27- Shows a Colt Accro adjustable rear sight, used on

both I frame and Diamondback models. With I frames, the rear
sight leaf body is removed first to gain access to the inertial
firing pin, spring, and retaining stop plate mounted just
underneath. Remove the firing pin assembly with an 1/8"
punch, as shown.
Remove the I frame firing pin as

follows:
1.
2.
3.
While holding medium thumb

pressure on the rear sight body,
loosen, or fully back out, the
elevation screw.
Drift out the mounting pin and
remove the sight leaf body. See
figure 27. Watch for the two
elevation springs as you remove
the sight.
Depress the firing pin with an
1/8" punch, just enough to clear
the stop plate, and then draw the
plate up. Catch the pin and
spring with your thumb as they
clear the stop plate.
Figure 28- Shows a detailed view of an I frame firing pin

tunnel, after the firing pin has been removed. The firing pin.
spring, and stop plate are shown, at right. Don't skip this
disassembly step. The firing pin must be checked both for
condition and to be sure it is the correct part [not a substituted,
smaller diameter, J pin].
36
Remove Latch, Latch Spring and
Guide
Figure 29- Shows an early style cylinder latch being removed

from the sideplate. The back of the thumbpiece on early style
latches was factory fit to the sideplate with very little
clearance. Latch friction marks usually appear on the sideplate
just to the rear of the thumb piece with the latch in the closed
position.
Figure 30- Shows a sideplate and late style latch assembly. The
latch spring and latch spring guide are shown still in the frame.
With late style latches, friction and drag have been eliminated
by increased clearance at the back of the thumbpiece and by
factory installation of a nylon bearing insert under the
thumbpiece.
If, on initial pre-check, the latch

seemed sticky or was too tight, always
look for rust under the latch and/or
friction marks on the sideplate,
especially when dealing with closely
fit older style cylinder latches. See fig.
29. Also, dried, impacted oil and dirt
build-up around the latch pin and in
the guide slots of the sideplate can
cause a latch sticking problem. Later,
when all parts are detail cleaned, give
extra attention to these inside areas.
Look for mechanical friction and drag
marks. If marking is present, and the
latch is too tight, or the sideplate slots
or latch rails appear to have been
peened, make a note of it. Note it also
if the latch is too loose. In both cases,
latch refitting or replacement could be
required. See later sections on cylinder
latch fitting. With late style latches,
make sure the nylon bearing insert is
still in place under the thumbpiece.
See figure 30. Remove the latch spring
and guide and place them in the parts
box with the latch. Note if the latch
spring was overly tight or hard to get
out of the sideplate. If resistance was
not caused by dried oil or grease, the
pin tunnel may require clearance
reaming on reassembly. After latches
have been fit, and particularly if once
tightened, always keep them with their
correct sideplate and frame. Mixing
them up creates extra refitting work.
37
About D, E and I Frame Pins

From the beginning of model
production, Colt's D, E, and I revolver
frame pins have been factory
installed by press fitting them into
their frames.
Extra precision
machining steps are involved in
manufacturing revolvers in this way,
rather than by simply brazing the
pins in. The result, subject to the
later condition of the frame, is a field
serviceable, and re-buildable,
revolver. Even with this easy
replacement factor built in, these pins
are so well dimensioned and fit that
the bearing surfaces seldom wear
out with average use. Don't remove
frame pins at this time unless the pins
are rusty, pitted, damaged, or
excessively worn and require
replacement. See Section II for frame
pin removal. If the revolver is
being disassembled for re-finishing, I
suggest hand polishing the frame and
pin extensions, rather than
removing the pins. Leaving the
pins in place prevents unnecessary
frame pin hole wear. Caution: When
frame pin holes are found loose,
return the frame to the factory for
inspection and installation of an "SK"
or oversized pin.
Figure 31- Shows an I model with trigger and hammer frame

pins remaining after all action parts have been removed. D pins
are similar except smaller in diameter and on nominal 1.00"
centres versus the nominal 1.250" centres used in E and I
models. Frame pins are removed at this time only if worn
undersize, or defective.
About Pinned Front Sights

The rule is: Leave pinned sight
blades as they are unless replacing
them. This helps limit wear
enlargement of the barrel's pin
holes. When re-finishing, I suggest
sand blasting and re-bluing with
sight and pins still in place.
Neutralizing solutions handle bluing
salt bleed-out.
Figure 32- Shows the double retaining pin front sight system
used on all Pythons. Sight blades on 6" Diamondbacks are
retained with one pin. Except O.M. Target and Match, other D
and E models, including the 4" Diamondback, have forged, or
welded and ground, blades. Remove sight pins only when
replacing the sight blade.
38
Figure 33- Shows a half-sectioned cutaway view of a typical early style cylinder assembly. Early style
ejector rods combine the forward rod and a multi-splined ejector stem in a single piece. The raised spring
flange at about midpoint serves the same purpose as the rod bushing does with late style rods. Warning:
Prevent damage by identifying early D, E, and I ejector rods- before attempting to twist out a nonexistent
front half section. The best identifier with early rods would be the shape of the rod head, and the fact that
the head unscrews. With early cylinders, the ejector star/ratchet is unscrewed to separate the crane/ejector
assembly from the cylinder. Intermediate stem guides are pinned in place.
Figure 34- Shows a half-sectioned cutaway view of a late style cylinder assembly; identified by its premachined and pressed-in stem guide. Late style D, E, and I ejector rods are built in two sections: a front
rod with fixed head, and a separate ejector stem with one spline and a fixed ejector star/ratchet at the rear.
With this design, only the front half of the rod needs to be unscrewed to separate the crane assembly from
the cylinder. The ejector star/ratchet should not be unscrewed. A separate ejector rod bushing is used with
late style rods, since the raised spring flange is no longer part of the rod stem.
39
Disassemble Early Style Crane and

Cylinder Assembly
Before disassembling an early style
crane and cylinder, see illustration and
caution about one piece rods in figure
33.
Remove Ejector Rod Head
1.
2.
3.
4.
Secure the ejector rod head

between bronze vice jaws so that
it can't slip. See figure 35.
Loosen and remove the ejector
rod head by turning the cylinder
body counter- clockwise [as
viewed from the rear of the
cylinder].
If the head is rust stuck, or the
rod feels springy- and about to
shear, soak assembly in
penetrant. Break rust bond by
sharply rapping the top of the
ejector rod head with an 8 ounce
brass hammer.
Then, repeat step #2.
Figure 35- Shows an early style crane and cylinder assembly,

ready for rod head removal. Clutch the head between bronze
vice jaws, and use the cylinder body as a handle to increase
thread leverage. Loosen the rod head by turning only in the
above direction. Prevent rod bend by centering cylinder and
rod when twisting.
Note: As an assist when dealing with

stuck rod heads, even though all early
ejector rods were made with multiple
stem splines to take the load, always
insert empty shells in every other
chamber to help cushion the twisting
force.
Remove Ejector/Ratchet
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Secure the cylinder between

aluminium vice jaws, or chuck it
in a cylinder clamping fixture.
See fig. 36
Push the ejector rod up, holding
the fingers just high enough to
clear the cylinder. Install the
ratchet wrench.
Then, unscrew ratchet in a
counter clockwise direction [as
viewed from the top].
With resistant threads, soak
cylinder in penetrant, then rap
the closed ratchet face with a
brass hammer.
Repeat steps 1 through 3.
Figure 36- Shows an early style crane/cylinder assembly

chucked in a clamping fixture, now ready for ejector
star/ratchet removal. A ratchet wrench is shown above. This
tool allows the revolversmith to see the ratchet as it turns, and
exerts even pressure on the ratchet base without compressing
the ejector star fingers.
40
Remove Crane/Ejector Rod
Assembly
In early style cylinders, the crane,
ejector rod, and spring subassembly is
retained in the cylinder by the
threaded ejector star/ratchet.
1.
2.
3.
Figure 37- Shows an early crane and ejector rod assembly
being taken out of the cylinder after the ejector star/ratchet has
been removed. Sometimes, the ejector stem is found slightly
compression flared where it joins the back of the ejector star.
Unless dressed, the stem may resist being drawn through the
spline guide.
4.
Once the ratchet has been

unscrewed, the crane can be
drawn forward and out of the
cylinder. See figure 37.
If the end of the ejector stem
catches on the cylinder's spline
guide as it is pulled out, it is
likely that the end of the stem
has been enlarged a bit by
compression flaring. Don't try to
force it out.
Instead, push the stem back
through the guide and lightly
dress the flared material back to
flush with a fine Arkansas stone.
Then, clean and oil the ejector
stem and slip the crane out of the
cylinder.
Check Crane Bushing

1.
2.
3.
First, check condition of the

spanner slots machined into the
end of the bushing. See figure
38.
Next, check for rust. Soak in
penetrant if present.
If the slots are blurred or
damaged, they may require
careful redefinition with a thin,
specially ground chisel. When
doing this, remember to relieve
the inside corner of the chisel to
protect threads inside the crane.
Note: Using pin punches to rotate

crane bushings out is the usual cause
of both bushing slot and inside crane
thread damage. Don't use punches.
Instead, always use a bushing spanner
wrench for this job. See figure 39.
Figure 38- Shows a close cutaway view of an early style crane
barrel and threaded crane bushing, before the bushing is
unscrewed. Note that early style one piece ejector rods extend
past the crane bushing. A counterbored spanner is required.
Condition of the bushing's spanner slots must be checked
before bushing removal.
41
Remove Crane Bushing

If the crane bushing is not rusted, and
spanner slots are in good condition,
bushing removal is an easy job. See
figures 38 and 39.
1. Place a drop of oil in each
bushing slot to lubricate the
threads inside the crane.
2. Insert the appropriate D or E/I
size bushing wrench.
3. Push the wrench in to seat
spanner studs, then twist the
crane bushing out in a counter
clockwise direction.
4. If the bushing is resistant, soak
the crane assembly in penetrant.
Then, repeat steps 1 through 3.
Disassemble Late Style Crane and
Cylinder Assembly
Late style crane and cylinder
assemblies separate quickly by
unscrewing the forward portion of the
ejector rod. See figure 40.
Usually, when ejector rods are kept
moderately snug, cylinder rotation
alone will prevent loosening. Unless
an ejector rod has been over torqued,
most are easily removed by either
turning the rod clockwise, or turning
the cylinder opposite normal rotation.
See fig. 40.
Figure 39- Shows a crane bushing spanner wrench, or "bushing

wrench" for short, being correctly used to unscrew an
early/intermediate crane bushing. A combination D/E/I
[double- ended] bushing wrench is shown above. The two
wrench sizes fit all D, E, and I model crane bushings. Check
spanner slots before using.
Caution: The ejector/ratchet stem

spline must be fully supported when
loosening a late style ejector rod that
has been overly tightened or is
otherwise resistant or stuck. Back-up
support is provided by installing a
dummy or empty shell in every other
chamber to support the spline while
twisting the rod loose.
Figure 40- Shows a late style ejector rod at top. A late cylinder
and crane assembly is shown below, ready for ejector rod
removal. I suggest chambering dummy rounds to protect the
single spline used in late style cylinders. Rotating the cylinder
counter clockwise, or the rod clockwise, [viewed from the rear]
will loosen the rod.
42
Remove Late Style Crane Assembly
Once the ejector rod has been
unthreaded, late style crane assemblies
are no longer held captive in the
cylinder, and can be drawn out easily
with your fingers. See figures 40 and
41.
Remove Late Style Ejector, Ratchet,
and Stem
With the late style ejector rod
unthreaded and removed, the late
ejector star/ratchet and stem can be
drawn out, also with fingers.
Remove Crane Bushing, Late Style
Crane Assembly
Figure 41- Shows removing a late style crane from the

cylinder, at "A", above. At "B", a late style ejector star/ratchet
and stem is being drawn out of the cylinder. It's a good idea to
pre-check the condition of the ejector star fingers and note
whether both ejector star guide pins are in place as the star is
being removed.
Throughout production, Colt has used

only two standard crane bushings.
Early and late D and early and late E/I
bushings remove in the same way with
the same tooling. See figures 38, 39,
and 42.
Remove Dried Oil Varnish
If the frame, cylinder, crane or any of
the action parts are varnish coated,
pre-soak them in solvent at this time,
so they will be ready for detail
cleaning and inspection which comes
next. Note: Dried oil varnishes and
impacted dirt can be very difficult to
remove with standard cleaning
solvents. With adequate ventilation, an
acetone bath can dissolve even the
toughest and most resistant coatings.
But, don't leave parts immersed more
than an hour or two, due to rust
potential from solvent moisture
absorption.
Warning: Don't allow coloured sight
inserts, or other plastic parts, to come
in contact with such solvents. Always
wear rubber gloves.
Figure 42- Shows a late style crane assembly removed from the
cylinder. Except for a few early I models, the same crane
bushings are used in early and late cranes, #56099B for D
frames and #50349 for E and I frames. In late style cranes the
threaded bushing retains only the ejector rod bushing and
ejector spring.
43
Figure 43- Shows an I frame revolver with all parts removed except barrel, front sight, and frame pins.
These remaining parts are removed only when replacement makes it necessary. A cutaway frame and
cylinder are used to show extra detail. The indicated areas are common to all D, E, and I frame revolvers.
Impacted dirt, dried oil residue, and varnish must be removed, and all surfaces and recesses well cleaned
before a detailed inspection of the frame, sideplate, and cylinder can be made. Important areas are
identified by number, below. Also, see figures 44, 45, and 46 for removal of heavy lead fouling.
1.
Barrel, forcing cone, and surrounding frame area
2.
Cylinder bolt window, underneath window, and inside the frame
3.
Firing pin tunnel, recoil plate, and firing pin stop slots [I frame]
4.
Latch pin tunnel and ratchet recess
5.
Milled safety linkage slots and recesses
6.
Milled cylinder bolt recess
7.
Crane stem tunnel and crane lock recess
8.
Frame screw threads, all locations
9.
Sideplate slots, latch recess, and spring tunnel
10. Front cylinder face, around chambers

11. Cylinder crane tunnel and splined stem guide
12. Ejector star recess and around ejector guide pins
13. Chamber leads/throats
Figure 44- Shows a Lewis Lead Remover ready for use in a

.357 barrel. This superb tool uses brass screen patches over an
expandable rubber head and mechanically removes even the
heaviest leading without the use of abrasive materials or
poisonous chemicals. Lewis Lead Remover and rod are shown
separately, below.
44
Heavy Lead Removal
When soft lead and soft alloy bullets
are fired, a certain amount of bore
streaking is normal and unavoidable.
This is still the case when bullets are
correctly sized and lubricated. Normal
streaking presents little problem, and
is easily removed with standard
solvents and cleaning brushes. But
heavy leading and build- ups, of the
type that make bores look like the
inside of a lead pipe, shouldn't be
allowed to happen in the first placebore rifling becomes useless, bullets
tear, accuracy is lost. The remedy for
this problem is prevention: Don't
accelerate soft alloy lead, even when
well lubricated, faster than 850 or 900
fps. For .38 special target use, 700 to
750 fps. is optimum. With proper
bullet lube, bore leading is usually
minimal.
As magnum velocities are approached,
the much higher gas temperatures
vaporize the backs of lead alloy
bullets and coat the inside of the
barrel. Since reloaders insist on
loading high velocity soft lead
ammunition, the removal problem
continues to exist. The following
barrel de- leading method is still best:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Figure 45- Shows a Lewis tapered forcing cone head installed

and set up for lead removal. It works by rotating the brass
screen covered head while pulling forward on the rod. In
magnum revolvers, forcing cones may be subjected to extreme
combustion temperatures, pressures, flame erosion, and
carburizing. See figure 52.
Install the correct bore size

Lewis Lead Remover expander
head and brass screen patch. See
figure 44.
Draw the patch through slowly,
with the rubber expander head
set just at lead build-up size.
Then, expand the head slightly
with each drawing of the patch,
increasing bite.
Continue until all fouling has
been flaked off.
45
De-lead .357 Cylinders

The lead and/or carbon rings that
usually build-up from firing .38 spl.
rounds in .357 cylinders should be
removed regularly- for three reasons:
1.
2.
3.
When .357 rounds are fired in

minimum headspace revolvers,
the accumulated lead and/or
carbon ring can act as a crimping
shoulder. Bullet deformation and
dangerous, excessive gas
pressures are typical results.
Even small carbon rings can vary
pressures when .357 ammunition
is fired.
Moisture tends to absorb into the
carbon layers, pitting the
chamber walls.
Detail Inspect Cylinder

At this point, we are only
concentrating on the body of the
cylinder. Other cylinder parts will be
checked later. Make the following
checks:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Figure 46- Shows a half-sectioned cutaway cylinder and

interior chambers. Arrows show leading zone. When .38
special cartridges are fired in the longer .357 magnum
chamber, lead and carbon build up between the .38 special case
mouth and the chambers' exit throats. A Clymer de-leading
reamer is shown at bottom.
Inspect the cylinder collar. The

shoulder must be square, smooth
and unaltered.
Check the front of the cylinder
for nicks, dents and "cylinderhits-barrel" rings.
Check the cylinder face at exit
throats for scrub-out, or
rounding, from abrasives.
Inspect chamber interior
condition for pits or damage.
Check that both ejector star
guide pins are there, are high
enough, and undamaged.
The spline guide should be
undamaged. Late style press- fit
guides must be tight.
Inspect cylinder bolt slots- all
must be like new.
If enough material remains, cylinder

collars can be refit after stretching.
Ejector star pins can be replaced. If
any of the other problems are found,
replace the cylinder.
Figure 47- Shows front, rear, and inside cylinder inspection

points which must be checked after the cylinder has been
cleaned and de-leaded. This necessary, overall inspection will
determine whether or not the cylinder can be used as it is, or
whether fitting work and/or cylinder replacement will be
required.
46
Figure 48- Shows frame and sideplate completely cleaned and ready for close inspection before
reassembly. Carefully inspect and detail all areas listed below, as necessary. Frames and sideplates that
are in substandard condition due to internal rust, alteration, cracks, or other damage, will not produce a
safe, quality product, and must not be used. Also, see figures 49, 49A, 50, 51 and 52.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
Firing pin tunnel or slot- check for hammer flanging, remove burrs
Latch pin tunnel- inspect for alteration, remove edge burrs
Bolt window- inspect for alteration, remove burrs, do not oversize
Forcing cone- check condition, if eroded or cracked, see figure 52
Recoil plate, D&E- check plate, firing pin port for flush, level as needed
Crane tunnel- inspect, lightly dress with Craytex rod, don't oversize
Frame pins/bosses- check tightness, correct pin type, alteration, or wear
Frame threads- inspect all threads, re-tap any in question
Frame sideplate recess- check edge condition, remove nicks or burrs
Rebound pivot pin holes- check for moderately snug pin fit
Sight/firing pin stop slots, I frame- inspect, remove edge nicks, burrs
Barrel/frame fit- check that barrel is at 12:00, and tight in the frame
Sight condition- inspect blades, pins, and screws as applicable
Crown and bore- check crown for nicks, dents, damage- inspect barrel for wear, rust, bulges or
obstruction See figures 53 and 54
15. Interior frame condition- inspect interior slots and recesses, remove burrs and level high contact
areas
16. Sideplate- check for straightness, check latch slots, remove any burrs
47
Figure 49- Shows close views of a ratchet-peened frame. Peen marking is most often found in magnum
revolvers, but can also occur in .38 spl. steel and aluminium alloy frame revolvers when over pressure
ammunition is used.
The use of hot, high pressure curve loads, alone, can create excessive cylinder endplay. The forces and
pressures involved can stretch frames and compress cylinder collars in fairly short order.
Excess endplay, when combined with the continued use of heavy loads, sets the stage for the beginning of
ratchet peening problems. With heavy loads, ratchet indentations begin to appear quickly after excess
cylinder endplay develops; just how soon is subject to now much inertia the cylinder is forced to pick up.
With high pressure loads as the driving force, the determinants are: how far the cylinder is allowed to
move forward (existing endplay), how hard it strikes the frame (cylinder collar compression and more
endplay), and, finally, how much energy the cylinder has on return when it impacts against the back of the
frame.
Early style D and E frames were made to use standard velocity ammunition. Per the factory, aluminium
alloy D frame revolvers were made for standard velocity ammunition but can fire +P rounds on a very
limited basis. Keep in mind that alloy frame revolvers were originally designed primarily for lightweight,
law enforcement concealment purposes. No revolver of this type by any manufacturer was made for
continued use of even standard velocity ammo. Reasonably, if the use of +P ammunition is this restricted,
then it logically follows that none of the above revolvers were designed to fire even one round of + P+ (or
similar) ammunition. Caution your customers about this.
The following are the basic mechanics of ratchet peening:
1.
2.
3.
Shell casings push back on the recoil plate on pressure rise. Expanding gas then accelerates the
cylinder forward. The faster the pressure curve, the greater the speed and energy the cylinder
will develop.
At the end of forward travel, the cylinder collar impacts the frame.
At about this time, the bullet exits the cylinder and enters the barrel. Hot, expanding, high
pressure gas is suddenly vented out through the barrel/cylinder gap. The cylinder is shot
backward, and the ratchet strikes the frame with high energy, very much like a punch press die.
The frame then dents, or is "peened" at the points of ratchet contact.
The rule is: Don't begin refitting work on any revolver with ratchet peening indentations. Send the
frame to the factory for inspection and/or replacement.
48
Figure 49A- Shows two frames with evidence of moderate ratchet-peening at the ratchet seat. But,
interestingly enough, both frames have been pressure distorted and pushed back. Extreme over pressure
loads have exerted enough force to push the backs of both frames out of shape. As is many times the case
when such loads are fired long enough to heavily peen the ratchet seat, frame warpage also distorts
sideplate fit. The steel frame and sideplate, at left, are similarly distorted. Fortunately, it's not often that
you will see an aluminium frame in the condition shown, at right. But when you do, the frame will be
cracked in other places, as well.
If not for Colt's superb frame strength, the safety factor built into most cartridge cases- and probably
dumb luck, the gross overpressures necessary to do the above kinds of damage might not have been
contained. What the owners did with both revolvers was to simply pressure-destroy the frames before
they could ratchet- peen them to death.
Usually, by the time the moderate ratchet-peened stage is reached, most pressure abused revolvers are
found to have other pressure related problems, making frame replacement economically unrealistic.
Typical additional damage is:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Excessively stretched and/or cracked frames and tweaked sideplates

Compressed cylinder collars and sprung cranes
Damaged cylinder ratchets, guide pins, ejectors, stem splines, etc.
Eroded, cracked, and/or blown forcing cones
If, from a liability viewpoint, there is any question about the condition of a frame, or about saving an
individual frame, I suggest shipping the revolver to factory service for inspection and an official opinion.
Stress the importance of this to your customer- since his safety is involved.
Generally, people who ruin revolvers can generate countless reasons to explain how "it" happened. These
characters seldom admit error. But, on the off chance that reality might filter through, show them pictures
in a book like this and chew them out. Who knows, it might work! Also see safety warnings at the end of
this section.
49
Figure 50- Shows an aluminium alloy frame with a broken top strap and with cracks under the barrel and
under the recoil plate. Alloy frame cracks just under the barrel can be caused by use of incorrect
barrel/frame removal tooling in the field. However, the kind of frame damage shown above was caused
by firing rounds which exceeded the manufacturer's ammunition recommendations. Pressures generated
by these loads force barrels forward and expand frame threading. Alloy frames were not designed for
continuous use at all- or for more than occasional use with +P ammunition. Even one round of +P+
ammunition and/or similar over pressure reloads can rupture cylinders and produce frame cracks in both
lightweight and non-magnum steel frame revolvers.
Figure 51- Shows a steel frame revolver with top cylinder chamber and frame strap blown. The frame is
also cracked at the rear, and frame pins loosened. This damage was caused by firing a single round of
+P+ ammunition, which was abject foolishness. The fact is that high pressure/velocity +P+ rounds are
"restricted use only" ammunition. These loads are intended only for magnum revolvers and/or magnum
revolvers with .38 Special chambers. Remember, in any firearm, built by any manufacturer, there is a
physical limit to material strength. Closely inspect all frames. Don't reassemble or refit any revolver with
a cracked frame. Note that "frame is unserviceable" on the repair order.
50
Figure 52- Shows a close view of a severely flame eroded and cracked forcing cone. The above barrel
was fired continually with hot, high pressure reloads. Setting back the barrel and re-cutting the cone did
not remedy the problem.
Most major commercial ammunition manufacturers load the .357 magnum cartridge with fast burning
powders in pressure ranges between 25,000 and 40,000 PSI [copper units of measurement], with many
commercial loadings considerably below 40,000 PSI.
Some reloaders are inclined to load the .357 magnum cartridge to even higher pressures and velocities,
raising chamber temperature dramatically. With high and extreme pressures, gas temperatures jump
sharply, reaching well in excess of 3000 degrees F even on a cool day. On a hot day, the same loads can
generate even higher temperatures and pressures, and, if not already dangerous, can become so.
This is the primary cause of forcing cone flame erosion and failure. These unreasonable loads abnormally
heat the forcing cone. With hot, high pressure loads, a problem in heat dissipation is reached at some
point in any magnum revolver- specifically, the inability of the mass to dissipate excess heat quickly
enough. The thinner outer areas of the forcing cone and rear barrel face suffer most. Carburization
brittleness, caused by slower burning powders and carbon from partial combustion reaching the forcing
cone, further weakens the cone and adds to the overall deterioration problem.
Caution: Closely inspect all forcing cones, particularly in magnum revolvers- when found cracked or even
moderately eroded, the barrel must be replaced.
51
Figure 53- Shows a swelled barrel exterior and its half-sectioned front half, just below. The above barrel
was bulged when a .38 Spl. reload (with primer only- no powder) lodged a bullet partway down the bore.
Then, a second .38 Spl. round was fired into the obstruction. With obstructions in mind, don't fail to
inspect every bore. Also, always check bores for pitting, scratches, and/or possible wear at the thrust sides
and tops of the lands. Generally, worn lands appear shallow, shiny, and sometimes excessively concave.
But the real test for wear is made by either slugging, or casting the bore with Cerrosafe casting alloy and
then measuring the slug. Replace barrels with worn, pitted, internally scratched, bulged or otherwise
damaged bores. See barrel replacement, Section II.
Figure 54- Shows a close view of two muzzle crowns. The I model crown, at left, shows no irregularity or
damage, and is in excellent condition. The other barrel shown at right is also in excellent internal
condition. But, the crown has several small nicks and a dent extending into a rifling groove that will
seriously affect accuracy. This muzzle will require re-crowning before completion of work. See recrowning in Section II. Don't fail to make this important inspection.
52
Begin Parts Checkout and Reassembly

This section details basic Colt D, E, and I frame revolver reassembly, while stressing the importance of
thorough frame and internal action parts pre- inspection. Parts fitting and refitting are fully covered, with
heavy emphasis on checking correct function and correct interaction of the parts. Replacement of worn,
misfit, and/or damaged parts is also discussed in this section. Additional parts replacement details are
included in Section II.
The information in this section covers late model D and I frame revolvers, as well as earlier and
intermediate D and E frame models. Where early and late style parts and mechanical differences exist,
they are illustrated and discussed in detail.
The fact is; when basic fitting [and refitting] work is done with care and precision, the final product can
be mechanically "as new" once again. And, when maximum attention is given to the same fitting details,
a revolver of match grade, or "blueprint" precision can be produced.
Factory non-availability of early style parts may limit repairs of some earlier models. For example, brand
new early style cylinders, cranes, and hammers are no longer made or available from the factory. Where
earlier model and collectible factory discontinued parts are concerned, such as E model firing pins, check
with specialty parts suppliers such as GPC, West Hurley, New York. Fortunately, most late style parts, if
not direct replacements in their own right, will retrofit as parts assemblies within their respective models
and frames.
Always install new parts with extra care when fitting to older frames and to other, previously fit parts.
Even though current parts are 100% correct for their intended purpose, retro-fitting into older frames
usually requires much more attention to detail. Remember, we are talking about revolvers made as long
ago as 1905. Since then, there have been many downstream updates as well as slight variations in both
setup and gauging standards in the manufacture of both frames and action parts.
Parts originality, including correct finish, is important when repairing collectible and semi-collectible
early model revolvers. Dealers in older parts may be able to supply many needed items, but you must be
very specific about the exact model the part is for and the finish style and condition that is desired when
ordering such parts. I've had very good luck with GPC. They probably maintain the world's largest
inventory of factory discontinued parts.
A great deal of factory consideration goes into manufacturing new parts that have the capability of retrofitting and replacing older similar parts. But there could be very little, if any, factory expectation that
early, non-current parts [i.e. those that are 30, 40, 50, even 80 years old] would be used in much later
models. For this reason, I strongly suggest that the use of such older parts [even if still in like new
condition] be limited strictly to the restoration and maintenance of the older models they were originally
made for.
53
Why all the emphasis on parts and parts checks?

Aside from excellent original design, materials, and metallurgy, the remaining factor that has made Colt
D, E, and I frame revolvers function so well and last so long is the superbly manufactured and well fit
parts that have been used in these models. Generally, very little actually goes wrong with unaltered
revolvers of these types. When it does, it is usually a simple thing- easy for the experienced revolversmith
to find and correct. But, sometimes the job is made harder by other items that may have been stoned,
misfit, and even rendered unsafe by experimenters and non-professionals.
Since the beginning, all Colt action parts have been designed for multiple, yet simple function, with safety
and durability being of first importance. It is fair to guess that the main design theme must have been a
"John Browning style" economy of motion coupled with a minimum number of small parts to
manufacture. For this reason, D, E, and I frame revolvers use an absolute minimum of supplemental
springs, plungers, levers, pawls, dogs, and etc. Even the standard vee style mainspring used in these
models is responsible for three important functions: it spring loads the hammer, spring loads the rebound
lever, and also supplies trigger return pressure.
The rebound lever is another remarkable multiple function part. Its jobs include: disconnecting the
cylinder bolt on trigger/hammer command, supplying forward ratchet pressure to the hand and return
pressure to the trigger, and lastly, rebounding the hammer rearward into the safety clearance position as
the trigger and safety return.
That the rebound is usually the most misunderstood part in this system is probably because its installed
position obscures half of its function. To the unfamiliar eye, it is very likely that the unusual shape and
multiple function of the rebound lever makes it seem complicated. But it isn't.
The seeming complexity of these very simple parts tempts the non-Colt qualified to go on guesswork with
these revolvers. For this reason, from time to time you will see one part, or another, altered by
experimental stoning. Sometimes, still continuing on guesswork, parts are experimentally changed. Often,
in these cases, the new parts are still found to be in need of final fitting. In a number of instances, by the
time you see the revolver the original problem is still there; and worse, several new problems may be
piled on top of it.
Sooner or later you will see one of these compounded mistakes, but don't let it throw you. If the frame is
still serviceable, the revolver can be repaired. The sure road out of the mess is to follow these basic rules:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Always fully pre-check the action before disassembling.

Always keep parts separated, and with their original frame.
Always inspect individual parts for wear, alteration, and fit.
Always check proper mating and function of the parts as you reassemble- just as if you were
building a revolver from all new parts.
Always do a full function and safety check after reassembling.
If you find anything wrong on recheck- locate it, go back, and fix it.
54
Figure 55- Shows critical D, E, and I frame action parts. Any part that is either directly or indirectly
safety related, or that requires any amount of fitting to interact and operate safely and correctly with other
action parts, is a critical part. D and E/I mainsprings are included as safety related items because of their
direct interaction with the rebound lever- and secondary interaction with the cylinder bolt, hand, trigger,
and hammer safety assembly.
When ordering parts for D, E, and I frame revolvers, always specify model, finish, and the correct part
number. Read all update notices, particularly when late style, updated parts and assemblies are ordered.
Also, check parts lists for any supplemental, additional parts that may be required, such as the correct
safety assembly to match a late style D hammer, etc.
While some parts, such as D, E, and I model bolts, hands, mainsprings, etc., have been used throughout
production of their respective models, other items such as crane lock detents, cylinder assemblies,
hammers, safeties, and some frame pins, have been updated.
Once a frame and barrel have been detail cleaned and have passed close inspection, reassembly and
checkout of cylinder and action parts can begin. However, if the barrel must be replaced, complete that
first, before beginning any other work. See barrel work, Section II.
Note: When replacing barrels, remember to leave excess barrel face material for later barrel/cylinder
clearance adjustment.
55
About Late & Early CranesEarly cranes are primarily identified

by their square cut detent slots. See
fig. 56 & 57. D and I cranes were
finally updated with the introduction
of the new style cylinder in the mid
1970's. Python model cylinders
updated officially at s/n #36190E.
However, a quantity of lower serial,
pre- produced I frames left the factory
with updated, late crane/cylinder
assemblies. D model production
updated with the depletion of old style
cylinder stock. E frame production
ended in 1969 with the original
Official Police Model- well before the
late style cylinder update. Earlier
revolvers having late features will
have been updated at some time.
Check Early Style Crane
Before installing the crane:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Inspect crane flange for nicks or

dents. Lightly stone high spots.
Don't undersize.
Check lock detent slot. Remove
nicks or burrs. Dress lightly, do
not undersize.
Check crane bushing threads
inside crane barrel.
If bushing will not thread in
easily, replace the bushing.
If crane bushing is still resistant,
chase threads with: .286"-48 tap
Std. D/E/I thds. .318"-48 tap for
SK o/s thds.
Figure 56- Shows views of an early style crane, identified by

the square crane lock detent slot in the stem, and the standing
flange where the front of the crane barrel meets the frame. D
and E/I cranes were updated in two steps. Intermediate cranes
use the bevelled new style detent slot, yet retain the crane
barrel flange.
Check Late Style Crane

1.
2.
3.
4.
Check frame end of crane barrel.

Remove nicks, burrs, don't
undersize.
Inspect crane closure for frame
contact. Lightly dress.
Check crane lock vee notch for
nicks or damage. Lightly dress as
necessary.
Check crane bushing threads.
See #4 & #5, above.
Figure 57- Shows views of a late style crane. With the early
crane barrel flange removed, the longer, late style cylinder
collars now headspace directly on the frame itself, rather than
first bearing on the older crane barrel flange. The late style
crane stem has a vee-shaped notch to receive the late style
crane lock detent plunger.
56
Check Crane Lock Detent Assembly
The most common problem with crane
lock assemblies is damaged threads,
see figures 58 and 59. However, the
following important areas should be
checked as well:
1.
2.
Figure 58- Shows both early and late style crane lock detent
assemblies. Checkpoints are given above. Take extra care in
checking and reinstalling old style crane lock detents and
screws- these parts are no longer made. Since there is a risk of
thread damage, always start crane lock screws with your
fingers.
3.
With early style detent

assemblies, make sure the lock
screw's extractor ring fits
correctly in the detent's receiving
slot. If nicked or dented, carefully
clean the extractor ring and/or slot
with a thin flex stone.
Check fit of the detent's
engagement shoulder where it
meets the crane stem. If an early
style detent is worn, and a
replacement is not available, the
detent tip can be built up by TIG
welding and then re-faced. Also
see figures 60, 61, and 62.
Check the mechanical fit of the
lock screw and lock detent in the
frame.
Warning: never install an early detent

in the frame without the screw. If the
detent is pushed in all the way without
the lock screw, it can be difficult to
remove.
Chase Lock Screw Threads
If the crane lock screw was tight or
resistant on removal, or the screw will
not readily hand start, lubricate, and
then clean the threads with a tapered
starting tap.
1.
2.
Figure 59- Shows a drill press installed tap aligning tool being
used to chase blurred frame threads. The frame is on a levelling
block. This method is used in chasing crane lock screw threads,
as well. Early style standard crane lock frame threads are
cleaned with a tapered .123"- 36 tap, and late style with a
.250"-4(J tap.
If a tapered starting tap will

thread in easily with fingers, clean
the threads by hand, then re-clean
with a bottoming tap.
If the tapered starting tap will not
finger start, chase threads on a
drill press, using a tap aligning
tool and frame levelling block.
See fig. 59.
57
Check Early Style Crane- Frame Fit

Checking correct crane/frame fit is the
first reassembly step. See figure 60.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Install the crane, crane lock

detent, and lock screw. Then,
snug the lock screw.
Check endplay with crane open.
Then, close the crane, taking up
slack with slight forward
pressure. On closing, the crane
flange should brush the back of
the frame, but not hit the corner.
See fig 61.
Check the crane guide for nicks,
dents, or drag marks. Lightly
dress high spots until drag is
gone. Don't undersize.
Check the front crane-to- frame
joint. The crane should close
easily, without applying pressure,
and rest against the frame with a
hairline fit.
If fit is questionable, see crane
alignment, Section II.
About Crane-Open Endplay and

Early Style Cranes
Figure 60- Shows early crane/frame fit check points. On

closing, the flange at "A" should lightly contact the inside of
the frame, but not hit or drag. At "B", the bottom of the crane
should clear the crane guide without contact or drag. The crane
arm at "C" must close easily and fit 100% against the frame
without a gap.
A small amount of open crane endplay

is normal and necessary in all early
style D, E and I model cranes.
1.
2.
3.
If the crane flange slides by the

frame without striking or
indenting the flange as the crane
closes, open crane endplay is not
excessive.
Refitting is necessary if the crane
barrel flange hits on closing; is
already dented or marked from
previous frame strikes; if wear is
present at the crane stem's detent
engagement face, at the crane
lock detent tip, or at both. See
figs. 61, 62, 63.
After fitting, level any raised
material at the strike marks on the
flange- but do not bevel, thin, or
undersize the crane flange, or
frame.
Figure 61- Shows excess open crane endplay in an early style

crane. This is caused by crane stem detent engagement surface
wear and/or wear on the detent itself, and allows the crane
barrel flange to hit the corner of the frame as the cylinder
closes. Inset illustration at bottom shows wear points that cause
this problem.
58
Fit Early Style Crane Stem Detent
Engagement
The only part of the stem's detent
engagement wall that is tightened in
peening is the approximate 1/4 that
lines up with the crane lock detent tip
when the crane is opened and closed.
See figure 62. The best tool for this
job is a 6 oz. ball peen hammer, with a
perfectly smooth, flat face.
1.
2.
Figure 62- Shows an early style crane stem positioned on a
bench block, ready for peening and tightening of the stem's
detent engagement surface. An aluminium pad is placed under
the stem to prevent flattening on the back side. Peen only that
part of the stem that contacts the detent tip as the cylinder is
closed.
Peen the edge of the stem's detent

engagement wall using light to
medium taps only. Don't round
off or indent the corner of the
detent engagement wall, since
crane lock detent tip overlap only
runs about .035 to .040".
An alternate method is to TIG
weld and build up the detent
engagement tip and then refit it to
the crane slot.
About Closed Crane Endplay In

Early Style CranesLoose, worn cranes will allow closed
crane endplay. If loose enough,
[particularly with a very weak latch
spring] the ratchet will drag and/or
strike the edge of the frame when the
cylinder is closed. When crane/frame
bearing junction wear exists, peening
and refitting the crane stem pulls the
crane flange back and leaves it
unsupported. Headspace is also
affected. Replacing worn, early cranes
is difficult with early parts
unavailable. To replace worn material,
a useful alternative is to install a
stainless steel bearing washer at the
crane- frame bearing junction. This
repositions the crane flange on the
frame and allows the cylinder to
correctly headspace on the flange.
See fig. 63 and section on headspace.
Figure 63- Illustrates closed crane endplay at the crane/frame

bearing junction. When wear exists here, re-fitting the detent or
crane stem pulls the crane flange back, away from the frame,
leaving the crane flange unsupported. This also closes
headspace. Insert a .002, .003, or .004" bearing washer to
compensate for wear.
59
Check Late Style Crane- Frame Fit

1. Install late style crane, and check
stem fit inside the frame. Then, install
the crane lock detent, spring, and
crane lock screw. Snug the screw.
2. Then, check for correct spring
pressure. The lock detent spring must
exert only enough pressure to maintain
positive crane position. To eliminate
detent spring bind, shorten the spring
one turn.
3. If crane hinges loosely, replace
spring and/or detent.
4. Check that the front of the crane
barrel just clears the frame on closing.
5. Inspect closed crane for a hairline
crane/frame joint. If fit is
questionable, see crane alignment,
Section II.
About Late Cranes & LocksThe late style crane lock design update
first appeared in production revolvers
near the end of WWII. By simply
locating the crane stem's bevelled
plunger slot slightly forward, the
spring loaded crane lock detent
plunger easily maintains a positive
pressure on the stem, keeping it drawn
back against the frame bearing. This
system eliminates crane endplay. With
the late style cylinder update of 1976,
the crane barrel flange was eliminated,
allowing the new style longer cylinder
collars to headspace directly on the
frame. This unloaded the crane,
freeing it to act only as a pivot. Except
for realignment of bent or sprung
cranes, these basic changes have
virtually eliminated all crane related
field service problems.
Figure 64- Shows a close view of a late style crane and frame.
Notice, at "A", that the crane barrel flange has been factory
eliminated so that the cylinder collar can now headspace
directly on the frame. At "B" the old style crane guide has been
set back into the frame to provide room for a wider, stronger
crane arm.
Figure 65- Illustration shows a late style crane, crane lock

detent, spring, lock screw and frame in half and cross-sectional
views. Placement of the bevelled crane stem slot, in this
excellent design, is slightly forward of the detent tunnel in the
frame, enabling the detent plunger to hold constant back
pressure on the crane stem.
60
Check Crane Alignment
With other crane work done, the next
step is to check crane alignment.
Although most of the cranes you
check will be straight, a number won't
be- and for that reason all cranes must
be checked. See figures 66 and 67.
Including the example shown, there
are four basic bend directions. Bent or
sprung cranes may or may not show a
gap at the front, since both the
direction and amount of bend will
vary in each case.
Gauge Check Alignment
Figure 66- Shows a sprung crane with a crane- to-frame joint

gap at "A". Cylinder impact bent this crane inward. It no longer
fits the frame correctly. The arrow at "B" indicates bend
direction. The back of the crane barrel, in this classic and
extreme misalignment example, is to the right when the
revolver is held down-range.
Crane alignment is probably very

close, or correct, if, during the before
disassembly pre-check, the cylinder
latch easily engaged the ratchet in all
six chamber positions under latch
spring pressure alone, without
resistance and/or the need to push on
the cylinder.
The thimble alignment gauge test is
simple and positive. See figure 67.
With this method, the exact position of
the gauge tip in relation to the latch
pin tunnel can be seen as the crane
closes. Two gauges are needed: one
for E/I models, and a second for
smaller D model cranes. Check
alignment as follows:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Figure 67- Shows a crane with a thimble gauge installed and

ready for the crane alignment check. When the crane is
straight, the thimble gauge tip easily drops into the latch pin
tunnel just as the crane is closed. This test positively
determines whether the crane is straight and in agreement with
frame and latch pin centreline.
Install the thimble gauge on the

crane barrel.
Place the revolver on the bench,
pointed straight up.
Close the crane. The thimble
gauge tip should drop in to the
latch pin tunnel with the crane
closed.
In cases where the gauge tip won't
drop in unless the crane is pushed,
the crane is sprung. See crane
alignment in Section II.
61
About service procedures and Colt D, E, and I model cylindersService procedures are based on experience and developed for checking, refitting, and/or replacement of
parts or parts assemblies. Tolerances, working clearances, wear limits, and etc., are determined by
blueprint. Heat treating to design specification determines the working toughness or hardness of the basic
steels used. From there on, wear, abnormal wear, and/or abuse take over. These factors have everything to
do with how cylinders are inspected and function checked. With this in mind, most of the reasons behind
service procedures with Colt cylinders are easy to see when the manufacturing steps are known.
Late style Colt revolver cylinders are manufactured as follows:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
The cylinder body is fully machined, but with chambers reamed only to the semi-finished stage.
The internal spline guide insert is machined and pressed into the back of the cylinder.
Ejector star/ratchet guide pins are pressed in and end chamfered.
The ejector stem and ejector ratchet are assembled and staked.
The ejector/ratchet/stem assembly is installed, aligned, and fit on the cylinder's guide pins.
The chambers are finish reamed with the ejector star in final seated position. This mates the ejector
star fingers with the cylinder.
Both ratchet shoulder height and cylinder collar length are left oversize for final fitting into either a
new production frame, or for later parts use as a replacement cylinder assembly.
The completed cylinder assembly is then finally heat treated to blueprint specification as a unit. The
assembly is then finished.
For these manufacturing related reasons, cylinder guide pins and late ejector star/ratchet/stem assemblies
are factory replacement only. Factory service procedure requires that cylinders needing this work be sent
back through the cylinder manufacturing line before refitting in the service department.
Correct service procedures require cylinder replacement when any of the following conditions are
found:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
The cylinder collar is beyond reasonable stretch limits.

The internal spline guide is altered or damaged.
Bolt slot cuts are worn, altered, buffed out, or damaged.
The front or rear of the cylinder is altered or damaged.
Chamber or overall cylinder condition is not acceptable.
Exterior/interior rust pitting is present.
For liability reasons, field service procedures should be no less strict.
62
Check Cylinder Bolt Slots
Bolt slot cuts must be detail checked
before the cylinder can be used. See
figure 68. Worn, loose, and/or altered
bolt slots may allow locked cylinder
misalignment. Slot corners that are
over polished or "pulled-out" on a
buffer, may not have enough surface
area left for positive bolt lockup.
Nicked, dented, or otherwise edge
damaged bolt slots can interfere with,
and in some cases prevent, full
cylinder bolt engagement.
1.
2.
3.
Figure 68- Shows checking cylinder bolt slot cuts by using the
cylinder bolt as a gauge. In making this check, be sure the bolt
is correctly aligned. The bolt must drop into each slot without
resistance. There should be virtually no sideplay with the bolt
engaged. Nicks, and slot damage, can interfere with bolt
engagement.
4.
5.
6.
Check slot cuts using the original

bolt head as a gauge.
Slots are acceptable if there is no
bind or sideplay.
If the slot engagement is loose
with the original bolt, recheck
with a new cylinder bolt. If the
new bolt solves the problem, tag
the part for replacement on
reassembly.
When slot fit is still loose, replace
the cylinder. Note: Don't attempt
peening or tightening cylinder
slots- alignment can be affected.
Lightly nicked cylinder bolt slots
can be carefully dressed with a
fine pattern file or a thin flex
stone strip.
Always check slot size against the
bolt head when dressing. Don't
oversize.
Check Ejector Guide Pins

1.
2.
3.
Figure 69- Shows early and late style ejector star guide pin
locations. Early pins position just at the tips of the ejector star
fingers. Late bevel-head pins are placed closer to the centre of
the cylinder. If nicked or tip burred, late style pins can be rechamfered with a guide pin dressing tool. Tool is shown
separately, at right.
There are two ejector star guide

pins. Though seldom loose or
missing, make sure both are in
place. See fig. 69.
Nicked or dented pins can be
dressed providing ejector fit is
correct and the fingers don't
overlap the chambers.
Replacement guide pins are not
factory listed. If loose or missing,
they can be made from std. pin
stock.
63
Check Early and Late Style

Ejector/Ratchets
After cylinder body checks have been
completed, and the guide pins
checked, aligned, dressed, or replaced,
etc., the ejector/ratchet is then ready
for close inspection, fit check, and
detailing.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Check the latch pin recess inside

the ratchet. The latch pin should
bottom without resistance and fit
with no more than about .001"
play.
If fit is looser, recheck with a new
latch pin.
Inspect ratchet lugs, guide pin
recesses, and ejector star, and
lightly deburr as needed. See
figure 70.
Check stem tightness with late
style ejector/ratchet assemblies. If
loose, re-stake the thread joint
with a prick punch. Early style
ratchets are staked after the
cylinder is assembled. Never
reuse misfit, altered, or damaged
ejector/ratchets. With early style
cylinders, [subject to parts
availability] replace the ratchet.
With late style cylinders, send the
cylinder to factory service for
ratchet and stem replacement and
refitting to the cylinder.
Figure 70- Shows close views of both sides of an early E frame

ejector/ratchet, at top. A late I frame ejector/ratchet and stem is
shown just below. Detail points are indicated. Pin recesses at
"A" may need deburring. Inside corners of star fingers at "B"
may require chamfering. Ratchet edges at "C" may need light
de-burring.
Check Ejector Star Fit in Cylinder's

Ejector Recess
1.
2.
3.
Drop the ejector/ratchet into its

cylinder recess and check fit. See
figure 71.
If ejector star finger tips bind,
lightly dress tips and cylinder
contact areas.
Make sure the star slips easily
over the guide pins, and selfaligns as it bottoms. At rest, the
top of the ejector star should be at
flush with, or just slightly below,
the level of the cylinder.
Figure 71- Shows two views of a late style D frame

ejector/ratchet being fit checked inside its parent cylinder.
When ejector guide pins are straight, ejector pin recesses deburred, and ejector star finger tips correctly end chamfered, the
star should easily bottom in the cylinder's receiving recess just
at, or slightly below, flush.
64
Check Ejector Star Sideplay and
Overlap
Figure 72- Shows ejector star sideplay check in a Tate style

cylinder. There is no specification for ejector sideplay- but it
should be little, and not enough to allow ejector star fingers to
overlap into chambers. In early cylinders, it should be near
zero. A finishing reamer or burnishing tool is used to remove
any extra finger material.
When ejector/ratchet detail work has

been finished, and the ejector star
smoothly and positively self aligns
and bottoms in the cylinder, both
ejector star sideplay on the guide pins,
and star finger overlap can be
checked. Early pinned tip ejectors
were originally factory fit to zero
sideplay and overlap. Unless pins
are missing, the ejector is damaged,
or a replacement has been misfit, it
probably won't require more than an
inspection. However, late style
ejectors are clearance fit to self align
on chamfered guide pins. This
design requires only a small amount of
sideplay to work correctly. See fig. 72.
Star fingers must be adjusted to agree
with inside chamber walls when they
are found to overlap into chambers or
are rough from some previous
ejector/ratchet replacement.
Adjust Extractor Overlap and
Burnish Chamber Walls
Overlapping and/or rough extractor
star fingers, and chambers with
machine lines inside, possibly left by a
dull reamer, may require a finish
reaming step before final inside
polishing with a ceramic
burnishing tool. Small amounts of
overlap and light chamber machine
lines can be eliminated at the same
time by burnishing. See fig. 73.
Chamber burnishing can also improve
case extraction. The best procedure
is to rotate the burnisher while
moving it in and out, much like using
a cylinder hone.
Figure 73- Shows a ceramic burnisher used to adjust ejector

star roughness left from previous ejector fitting and/or overlap
caused by ejector sideplay. Full size dummy rounds, or fired
cases, are inserted in every other chamber to position the star
fingers. Chambers are then burnished in rotation until there is
no overlap.
65
Check Early and Late Style Ejector

Rod and Stem
Before cylinder reassembly, early and
late ejector rods must be runout
checked, then straightened and dressed
as needed. The ejector rod and spring
in older revolvers are usually found to
be heavily gummed or varnish coated.
Detail clean ejector rods and springs
before checking. In late style
cylinders, the ejector rod bushing
collar picks up the ejector spring and
supplies ejector return pressure. See
figure 74.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Check ejector spring end crimp.

The end of the spring must fit into
the rod flange slot, or on the late
bushing collar, tightly enough so
that the spring can't slip over the
rod flange or bushing rim.
Inspect, deburr threads, clean rod
with a brass brush.
Check ejector stem spline, or
splines. Lightly dress any nicks or
burrs found at spline corners. Do
not undersize.
If stem or splines have been
altered or damaged, replace
ejector rod, or stem.
Figure 74- Shows check points for early and late ejector rod
assemblies. The ejector spring crimping point is shown, above.
Rod threads, spline slots, spline edges, and rod runout, or bend,
should be checked. The typical rod bend point is indicated
below. With late cylinders, make sure the ejector rod bushing is
installed.
Check Ejector Rod Runout

Early and late ejector rods bend just at
the point the rod enters the crane.
While Colt ejector rod design is more
forgiving than rods in most other
revolvers, bent ejector rods can stick,
make ejection hard, and in extreme
cases, even interfere with opening and
closing the cylinder. Ejector rod
runout is easily checked using either
method shown in figure 75.
Rods with compound or Zee- bends
are pre-straightened on a bench block.
See fig. 76.
Figure 75- Shows two basic ejector rod runout checking

methods. The lathe and dial indicator method at "A" is fastest,
and most accurate, for both rod checking and straightening.
The drill press and reference point method at "B" is slow, but
as accurate as drill press bearings will allow. Rods that are
"Zee-bent" will require peening.
66
Peen/Straighten Ejector Rod
Generally, most bent ejector rods are
only slightly bent and are easily
straightened.
1.
2.
3.
Figure 76- Shows an early style ejector rod being peened and
pre-straightened. Best tools for this job are an 8 oz. brass
hammer and a steel bench block. Care should be taken not to
further stretch the rod. Rotate and lightly tap high spots until
the hump or Zee bend is gone. Finish straightening on a lathe
or drill press.
4.
Chuck late style ejector rod, or

early style rod stem. Rotate and
check the end against a dial
indicator or reference point. See
fig. 75.
Hand adjust the rod as indicated.
Then, recheck runout. Adjust as
necessary, until the rod runs true.
Rods that are severely bent are
stretched on one side. Those that
have been field straightened tend
to stretch again, and form a hump,
compounded bend, or Zee in the
rod. Further attempts to hand
straighten will likely ruin these
rods.
The best straightening procedure
with stretched rods is to rotate and
tap the rod until the hump, or Zee
is level. Finish straightening on a
lathe or drill press. This helps to
minimize work hardening. See
fig. 76.
Polish Ejector Rod Stem

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Figure 77- Shows hand spin polishing the outer surface of an
ejector rod stem with #600 sand cloth. Only high spots and
sharp edges are dressed. Stem fit is then tested by temporarily
installing cylinder, stem, and rod on the crane, and then
checking for any remaining drag with the stem in actual
operating position.
Lightly polish rough stem edges

and high spots with #600
sandcloth. See fig. 77.
Check late ejector stems by
placing the cylinder on the crane,
slipping in the ejector stem, and
twisting in the front part of the
rod.
Then, function check for any
remaining ejector stem drag.
Lightly re-polish the stem as
needed.
Pre-assemble early style one piece
ejector rods and cylinders, and
make a similar function check.
With fitting completed, the crane
and cylinder are ready for
reassembly. See figures 78
through 83.
67
Figure 78- Shows early style crane/cylinder reassembly sequence: A. With early style one piece ejector
rods, the crimped end of the ejector spring is positioned in the rod flange slot, against the raised flange in
the middle of the rod. Caution: a loose fit may allow the end of the spring to slip over the flange, resulting
in a loss of return spring pressure and, in some cases, may also bind the ejector. B. The ejector rod and
spring are then installed in the crane. C. The crane bushing is hand started before screwing it in with the
bushing wrench. D. The cylinder is installed on the crane barrel. E. The ejector ratchet is carefully hand
started on the ejector rod threads. See figures 80 and 81 for ratchet aligning and tightening. F. The ejector
rod head is threaded on to just finger tight- plus about l/8th turn. Do not overtighten.
Figure 79- Shows late style crane/cylinder reassembly sequence: A. The smaller, tighter end of the ejector
spring is slipped onto the ejector rod bushing collar. Note: If spring fit is not snug enough on the collar,
lightly crimp the last coil to
prevent the end of the spring from slipping over the top of the bushing collar flange. B. The ejector rod
bushing and spring are positioned inside the crane. C. The crane bushing is hand started before screwing
it in with the bushing wrench. D. The cylinder is installed on the crane barrel. E. The ratchet/stem
assembly is then inserted in the cylinder. F. The ejector rod is threaded in to finger tight, plus about l/8th
turn. Caution: When tightening rods in late style cylinders, install full size dummy rounds or fired shell
casings in every other chamber to help support the single ejector stem spline. Do not overtighten.
68
Re-torque Early Style
Ejector/Ratchet
Once the crane and cylinder are fully
assembled, and the ejector has been
hand started and threaded to finger
tight, the ejector/ratchet can then be
tightened and aligned.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Figure 80- Shows a ratchet wrench being used to tighten an
early style ejector/ratchet. Being progressive, as well as factory
staked, ejector rod threads tighten as the ratchet is rotated on. If
ratchet is loose from previous unthreadings, see figure 82.
Don't twist the ejector star past the correct alignment point, as
shown in fig. 81.
5.
Secure the cylinder body between

aluminium vice jaws, or in a
clamping fixture. See figure 80.
Push the ejector rod up and hold it
just high enough to allow the
ejector star fingers to clear the
cylinder.
Install the correct D, or E/I model
ratchet wrench. Carefully tighten
the ratchet until only about 1/8
rotation remains. See figure 81.
Final rotate the ratchet, slowly,
just a bit at a time. Closely watch
the rod staking marks inside the
latch pin recess, the ejector guide
pins, and the tip slots at the edges
of the star fingers.
Stop at the exact point that the
star finger tip slots line up
perfectly with the cylinder's
ejector guide pins. See figure 81.
Note: Just at, or before, the correct

ejector star alignment point, the
ejector/ratchet should be reasonably
tight on the ejector rod's threads. If
not, re-staking may be required. See
figure 82. When rod threads are still
loose after re-staking, the ejector rod
must be replaced. Caution: Rotating
the ejector star past the alignment
point can flare and/or compression
damage the rod shoulder and stretch
damage the threads, as well. This is
one of the major causes of rod
damage.
Figure 81- Shows a close view of an early style ejector/ratchet

as it is being carefully fine adjusted to exact alignment with the
cylinder's ejector guide pins. The tip slots at the ends of the
ejector star fingers must correctly centre over the guide pins to
prevent star finger drag, or bind, as the ejector is cycled and
lowered.
69
Re-stake Loose Ratchet-Rod Thread

Junction
Early style ejector rod and
ejector/ratchet threads can loosen
slightly with initial removal and reinstallation. Generally, loosening
increases with later removal. Late type
ejector/ratchets are not made to be
field removed, and will rarely loosen
by themselves. Since the ejector star
must positively self-align with the
cylinder on closing, re-staking the
thread junction becomes necessary if
the ratchet is no longer tight at exact
alignment with the guide pins in the
cylinder. See figure 82. Unless the
ratchet has been grossly over twisted
during a previous replacement, inside
threads are seldom damaged. Careless
over-twisting usually compresses the
ejector rod shoulder while also
stretching the rod threads. When this
is done, the ratchet can't be reliably
staked. Replace any ejector rod in this
condition. Caution: A certain amount
of material is always flared and raised
in the staking process. Since it's
possible that full entry of the cylinder
latch pin could be limited, flared areas
must be levelled. Face reamers for
dressing the bottoms of staked D and
E/I ratchet latch pin recesses in either
a mill or drill press are very easily
made by slightly modifying std. 3/16"
and 1/4" end mill bits. Undersize and
dull the O.D. of the last 1/4" of an end
mill bit, to provide safe, no-cut
clearance while inside the latch pin
recess. Warning: Do not lower depth
or enlarge inside diameter of the latch
pin recess.
Figure 82- Shows re-staking the ratchet-ejector rod thread

junction with a staking punch. Prick punches can be used, as
well. Ratchets are best secured by lightly staking at four pointsthis also raises minimum material at the bottom of the latch
recess. Bench blocks with centre relief holes provide rod and
cylinder collar clearance.
Figure 83- Shows two views of ejectors being rechecked after

final assembly and/or re-staking work. At "A", the ejector is
closely inspected to make sure that it easily self aligns over the
guide pins and that the star fingers bottom just at, or slightly
below flush. At "B", the stem is rechecked for drag free travel
in the cylinder.
70
About Headspace, Cylinder Endplay, and Barrel/Cylinder Clearance

Keep in mind that here we are discussing only Colt's D, E, and I frame double action revolvers- and not
other models, brands, or types. And, there are specification differences, as well, between D, E, and I
frame revolvers. See the "Headspace and Clearance Table" on the next page for currently available
factory specifications and data on various model and calibre variations.
Headspace- is set at the factory by face-milling the cylinder collar to a finished length that just allows
entry of a minimum specification headspace gauge between the back of the cylinder and the frame, or
with D and E models, where the recoil plate is pressed into the frame. For example, Python model factory
minimum headspace specification is .062", and maximum headspace is .070". Setting headspace to the
.062" minimum, rather than toward maximum, is naturally safer, and allows for some amount of normal
seating, wear, and possible later cylinder endplay adjustment.
Cylinder Endplay- after cylinder collar length and headspace are established, endplay is set by surface
grinding ratchet shoulder length to the point that the cylinder assembly just fits in the frame. Fitting the
ratchet in this way leaves minimum cylinder endplay with the cylinder closed. With this fitting method,
the cylinder is "spaced" in the frame by the finished shoulder of the cylinder collar, at front, and the
finished ratchet shoulder, at the rear. Any room left over is endplay. Historically, almost all of the new D,
E, and I frame revolvers that I have examined appear to have left the factory with .001", or less, in-frame
cylinder endplay. Maximum cylinder endplay specified for D, E, and I frame revolvers is .003". See
"Headspace and Clearance Table".
Barrel/Cylinder Clearance- after the cylinder collar and ratchet shoulders have been fit, final
barrel/cylinder gap is set by adjusting the finished length of the rear barrel face to the correct cylinder
clearance. Most standard, factory new D, E, and I revolver barrel/cylinder clearances I have checked
measure between .004" and .006". Factory minimum barrel/cylinder clearance specification is .003" for
these models. Factory maximum clearance specification for all D, E, and I frame models is .008".
Once factory set, anything that causes or allows cylinder movement beyond original specifications
creates some amount of cylinder endplay, and changes both headspace and barrel/cylinder clearance, as
well. Specifically, any of the following will affect the three-way clearance-tolerance relationship between
the barrel, frame, and cylinder:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Normal wear or seating, and frame/cylinder collar/ratchet polishing

Frame stretching and/or ratchet peening [high and overpressure loads]
Cylinder collar compression [high and overpressure loads]
Cylinder substitution, miss-fitting, altering/undersizing the cylinder collar
Ratchet substitution, mis-fitting, altering/undersizing the ratchet shoulder
Mis-fitting the rear barrel face and/or cylinder alterations
Also see figures 84 through 88, and cylinder replacement in Section II.
71
Headspace and Clearance Table- D, E and I Frame Revolvers 71

Frame
Size
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
E
E
E
E
E
E
E
E
E
E
E
E
I
I
I
I
I
I
Calibre
Model
.22 LR
.32 NP
.38 SW
.38 CS
.32 NP
.32-20
.38 C
.38 Spl
.38 Spl
.22 LR
.38 CS
.38 SW
.38 Spl
.38 Spl
.22 LR
.32 NP
.38 Spl
.22 LR
.32 NP
.38 Spl
.38 Spl
.38 Spl
.38 Spl
.22 LR
.38 Spl
.32-20
.38 C
.38 Spl
.41 C
.22 LR
.38 Spl
.38 Spl
.38 Spl
.38 Spl
.38 Spl
.22 LR
.38 Spl
.357 M
.22 LR
.38 Spl
.357 M
.38 Spl
.357 M
Police Positive
Police Positive
Police Positive
Police Positive
Police Pos. Spl.
Police Pos. Spl.
Police Pos. Spl.
Police Pos. Spl.
Border Patrol
Banker's Special
Banker's Special
Banker's Special
Detective Spl.
Commando Spl.
Cobra
Cobra
Cobra
Courier
Courier
Courier
Agent [early]
Agent [Late]
Viper
Diamondback
Diamondback
Army Special
Army Special
Army Special
Army Special
Official Police
Official Police
Commando [WWII]
Marshall
Officer's Model
Officer's Special
O.M. Target
O.M. Target
.357 Magnum
Trooper [Orig]
Trooper [Orig]
Trooper [Orig]
Python
Python
Headspace
Min. Max
.043- .048"
.055- .062"
N.A.
N.A.
.055- .062"
N.A.
N.A.
.060- .065"
.060- .065
N.A.
N.A.
N.A.
.060- .065"
.060- .065"
.043- .048"
.055- .062"
.060- .065"
.043- .048"
.055- .062"
.060- .065"
.060- .065"
.060- .065"
.060- .065"
.043- .048"
.060- .065"
N.A.
N.A.
.060- .065"*
N.A.
N.A.
.060- .065"*
.060- .065"*
.060- .065"*
.060- .065"*
.060- .065"*
N.A.
.060- .065"*
.062- .070"
N.A.
.062- .070"
.062- .070"
.062- .070"
.062- .070"
Endplay
Max.
.003"
.003"
.003
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
.003"
Barrel Clearance
Min. Max.
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
.003- .008"
The above models/frames have been manufactured in more chamberings than shown, but the vast
majority of production has been in the standard chamberings listed above.
The "D" frame designation was adopted in 1947 and is also used here to identify similar models made on
the same basic frame manufactured before 1947.
The "E" frame designation was first adopted during manufacture of the Official Police model, and is used
here to identify medium frame revolvers originating before I designated models.
.41 C = .41 Colt, .38 C = .38 Colt, .38 CS = .38 Colt Short, .32 NP = .32 New Police/.32S&W Long
Some factory armourer data sheets show intermediate .38 Spl. E frame model maximum headspace
specification changed to .068" max. However, I suggest staying with the original, more conservative
.065" limit.
N.A.= Headspace data not available from the factory at the time of printing.
Where headspace safety data is not available for earlier revolvers- centerfire cartridge minimum
headspace can be roughly estimated at factory shell head thickness dimension plus .005- .006" maximum,
as an allowance for shell head clearance. "No-go", or max. headspace, in most centerfire revolvers,
averages .004- .005" over minimum headspace. (This data is for reference only- not a specification.)
If there is any headspace or safety question about any older Colt revolver- don't fire it, send it to factory
service for inspection.
72
Half-sectional illustrations show D and I model measuring points for headspace and barrel clearance gap.
-Drawings courtesy Colt Industries, Firearms Division
73
Most cylinder headspace-endplay problems are caused by frame stretching. Stretching, in turn, results
from use of over pressure loads and/or continuous use of heavy loads. Increased headspace and endplay,
in some cases, are purely the result of mis-fitting. Also see figures 49 and 49A.
Illustrations are exaggerated for example

Figure 84- Illustration demonstrates the basic three-way clearance-tolerance relationship between cylinder
headspace, cylinder in-frame endplay, and the barrel/cylinder clearance gap, in Colt D, E, and I frames.
Anything done with the cylinder collar or ratchet shoulder that changes one of the above clearances
always affects the others. Frame stretching and ratchet seat damage also affect all three.
1A. When headspace is excessive [open]- the back of the cylinder is too far from the frame. On firing,
cases push back to the extent that they may not be well supported. Risk potential for case splitting,
ruptures, etc. is increased.
1B. When headspace is too little [closed]- the back of the cylinder is too close to the frame. Shell heads
may drag and bind the action. With closed headspace, an otherwise normal firing pin protrusion can
puncture primers. Particularly under magnum firing pressures, primer jackets may flow back into the
firing pin port and drag, stiffen, or stop the next cylinder rotation. Primer jacket material can jam the
action, or make the action feel rough.
2A. When cylinder endplay is excessive- both headspace and barrel/cylinder clearance are affected. The
cylinder moves forward on firing, opening headspace and decreasing barrel/cylinder clearance. In
extreme cases, the front of the cylinder can strike the rear barrel face.
2B. When cylinder endplay is too little- not enough cylinder-frame clearance exists. The cylinder can
drag on opening and closing. Low clearance may also cause the ratchet to strike the frame on closing. For
match accuracy, near zero clearance is desirable, providing the cylinder opens and closes easily. For
service duty use, about .001" endplay is considered optimum.
3A. When barrel/cylinder clearance gap is too great- the large gap allows excess pressure drop, heavy
powder flash, particle spitting, and etc. Performance is adversely affected. Undersized ratchet shoulders,
cylinder endplay, incorrect trimming of the rear barrel face, and stretched frames all increase
barrel/cylinder in-frame clearance.
3B. When barrel/cylinder clearance gap is too small- lead and/or firing residue build-up on the front of
the cylinder and at the barrel face can cause cylinder drag or bind. In worst cases, on rotation, the cylinder
drags the barrel.
74
Gauge Check Headspace
Headspace in most revolvers crossing
the revolversmith's bench will
measure within factory specification.
Only a small number will not gauge
correctly. But, for that reason, all
cylinders must be carefully headspace
checked. Check headspace even if the
revolver has less than .003" endplay,
since low endplay gives only an
estimate of overall condition. The fact
is, without headspace gauge checking,
you can't tell what cylinder conditions
really exist in the revolver. It can't be
done by feel or by eye.
1.
2.
Figure 85- Shows an early style cylinder in the frame, ready for
headspace gauge checking. The crane is straight, the crane
barrel flange fits tight to the frame, and the cylinder collar is
de-burred and clean. The recoil plate has been checked for
nicks, dents, and raised areas. Flaring at the firing pin port has
been levelled.
3.
4.
5.
Check "Headspace and Clearance

Table" for correct model and
calibre headspace.
To prevent false gauge
measurements, always pre-check
both crane and frame condition.
See figure 85.
Position and gauge check cylinder
as shown in fig. 86.
Minimum headspace must not be
under specification for model and
calibre. The correct minimum
gauge must enter the space
between the frame and the rear of
the cylinder. Clearances of .001".003" beyond minimum
headspace are not unusual in well
used revolvers.
Recheck the revolver with a
maximum headspace gauge. The
gauge must not enter. The
difference between max. and min.
headspace is usually about .005".
See "Headspace and Clearance
Table".
Note: Most revolvers easily pass

headspace gauge tests. If one does not,
make checks in figs. 87 and 88 and see
cylinder work in Section II.
Figure 86- Shows gauge checking cylinder head space in an I

frame revolver. The revolver is held muzzle down with the
cylinder collar tight to the frame- this would be tight to the
crane flange with old style revolvers. Gauge width must be
narrow enough to keep the insert from binding between the
frame and ratchet edge.
75
Barrel/Cylinder Clearance
When the cylinder has passed the
headspace check, the next step is to
check maximum and minimum gap
size, or clearance, between the front of
the cylinder and the back of the barrel.
See figures 87 & 88. Most current
standard production revolvers leave
the factory with clearances somewhere
between .004" and .006". Normal
wear-in and seating will change this
clearance, somewhat.
1.
2.
Hold the cylinder back, insert

feeler gauge and check the gap.
Clearance must not exceed the
maximum limit of .008". See
Clearance Table.
Then, holding cylinder forward,
again measure gap. Clearance
must not be less than specified
minimum of .003". See Clearance
Table.
About Cylinder EndplayTo determine the amount of cylinder

endplay that is actually present, deduct
the minimum gap measurement from
the maximum gap. Generally
speaking, with cylinder headspace
factory set just at minimum, and
barrel/cylinder clearance at .006", an
endplay increase of .002" would take
barrel/ cylinder clearance just to the
specified .008" maximum. If the .002"
increased endplay is caused by frame
stretch, and both the cylinder collar
and ratchet are still as factory fit- the
.002" will show as increased
headspace when the cylinder collar is
against the front of the frame. For
more cylinder data, see Section II.
Figure 87- Shows measuring maximum barrel to cylinder

clearance with a standard feeler gauge. The cylinder is held
back with the ratchet hard against the ratchet seat. The
maximum factory specified clearance for all Colt D, E, and I
frame revolvers is .008". Insert the gauge from both sides to
check evenness of rear barrel face.
Figure 88- Shows measuring minimum barrel to cylinder

clearance, also using a standard feeler gauge. In this check, the
cylinder collar is held forward against the frame; in early
revolvers, against the crane barrel flange. Subtract minimum
from maximum clearance to find the existing amount of
endplay in the revolver.
76
Inspect D, E/I Cylinder Bolt
After cylinder/frame checks are
complete, return cylinder assembly to
the parts box. Bolt timing was very
likely close if the cylinder locked and
unlocked properly at the initial precheck. But just the same it's a good
idea to make sure the bolt is 100%
correct. Check as follows:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Figure 89- Shows both E/I & D cylinder bolts, springs, and bolt
pivot screws. All indicated points must be checked for wear,
mis-fitting, or alteration. Bolt springs and pivot screws must be
correct and in good condition. Comparing all three parts to new
factory replacements gives a fast reference- and is a
worthwhile first step.
Detail inspect the bolt head, stop

shoulder, and bolt actuator tip for
signs of excess wear, alteration,
or mis-fitting. See figure 89.
Check bolt spring length and
condition. Part numbers are: D50381 & E/I- 50435.
Closely check pivot screw slot,
threads, and shoulder.
Comparison check the bolt,
spring, and screw against new
Colt replacement parts. Replace
any item that shows signs of
excess wear, mis-fitting, and/or
alteration.
Fitting the E/I Bolt Head

When cylinders have more than the
usually very slight "bolt riding line"
around the outside [from normal
closing and rotating against a raised
bolt], typically, the top point of the
cylinder bolt will be found riding, and
gouging, the cylinder. With the correct
riding point on the lower side of the
bolt, it will follow rather than gouge.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Figure 90- Shows important E/I cylinder bolt head fitting

points. The bolt head should match the contour of the bolt slot
leads milled in the cylinder. Bolt head side bevel is about
.008"- .010". Head profile is slightly curved, placing the
cylinder contact, or riding point, 2/3 to 3/4 of the way down on
the lower side of the head.
Check bolt head contour.

Dress head contour to fit cylinder
slot leads.
Check both bolt head side bevel
and head profile. Curve profile for
proper cylinder riding point
position.
Final polish head bevel with #600
sand cloth. Lightly break sharp
corners at high and low head
points.
77
Fitting the D Bolt Head

Fitting the D frame bolt head is a bit
more critical due to the D cylinder's
narrower bolt slot cuts and the D bolt's
correspondingly smaller bolt head.
Smaller D head size makes a cylinder
riding point closer to the lower bolt
edge necessary. When fitting and
polishing this bolt head, extra care is
needed. Rounding off or over curving
the lower bolt corner can allow the
cylinder to back-roll to the left, or lead
side, and off the bolt head. While the
tendency to back-roll is overcome by
the hand when the hammer is cocked
in either the single or double action
mode, back- roll is an incorrect
condition and is evidence of either
excess wear or poor fitting. If the bolt
head is not excessively worn or
rounded off, head engagement can be
improved by raising the top of the bolt
and refitting the head. See figure 100.
Check Bolt Head Top Corner and
Cylinder Riding Point
Figure 91- Shows a close view of a factory fit D frame cylinder

bolt head. This smaller, offset bolt head is slightly narrower
than the E/I type [approx. .073" vs. .099"] and is top bevelled
only about .005". Forming the D bolt cylinder riding point
requires a more pronounced profile curve at the lower edge of
the bolt. Don't over curve.
If the angle at the top of the bolt

causes the top corner of the bolt head,
or top point, to contact or ride on the
cylinder or gouge the bolt slot leads, it
should be polished and slightly curved
until the point just clears the cylinder.
With D bolts, this slight crowning
effect moves cylinder contact to the
other side of the bolt head. Hand
check for top point clearance by
sliding the bolt down the leads and
into the cylinder's bolt slot cuts. With
the bolt installed, the top point must
just clear the cylinder at all times. See
figures 91 and 92.
Figure 92- Shows hand checking the bolt head cylinder riding
point after polishing the bolt head. The head must slide down
the bolt slot lead without gouging, and drop easily into the bolt
slot. The bolt head must fit the slot with minimum side
clearance. Inset shows clearance at top point with correct
crown at riding point.
78
Bolt Head Width and Frame
Window Fit
The sides of most previously fit bolt
heads may require no more than light
polishing with #600 sandcloth. Frame
windows seldom need more than light
corner de-burring. Refitting problems
are found when bolts have been poorly
replaced and when worn bolt windows
have been peened incorrectly, or, with
older frames, weren't adjusted at all.
See figures 93 & 94. There are two
basic fitting rules covering cylinder
bolts and bolt window width:
1.
2.
Figure 93- Shows close views of E/I and D bolt heads. Normal
travel polishing on the sides [light, shiny marking] usually
indicates a zero sideplay head fit inside the frame window.
With correct bolt head fit in the cylinder, heavier drag marks
may indicate that the bolt window is rough or burred.
Inspection points are shown.
From the above rules, it also follows

that:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Figure 94- Shows a close inside view of an I frame cylinder

bolt window and bolt stop ledge. The bolt window can be
lightly de-burred or re- squared if left uneven from a previous
fitting. Do not oversize the bolt window or alter the bolt stop
ledge. Arrows show punch peening zones for adjusting, or
closing, bolt windows.
The bolt head must fit freely and

easily into each of the cylinder's
bolt slot cuts, and with near zero
sideplay.
Short of restricting travel or
binding the cylinder bolt head, the
bolt window in the frame should
control cylinder bolt position and
allow no sideplay at the bolt head.
When a cylinder bolt head is

worn, misfit, or loose in the
cylinder's bolt slots, the bolt must
be replaced.
When cylinder slot fit is correct,
but the frame's bolt window
allows side movement, the
window should be adjusted to
eliminate play.
Windows are adjusted by
carefully punch-peening the
frame area just to the left of the
bolt window. See fig. 94.
Protect frame window by placing
a backup gauge insert inside,
before peening. Caution: bolts
that are loose on their pivot
screws deflect, and only appear
loose in the frame window. Check
before adjusting window. See fig
96.
79
Check Bolt-Pivot Fit

This is an important, and yet
sometimes ignored, fitting step.
Correct bolt pivot screw fit and the
resulting light tension placed on the
bolt body holds it firmly against the
frame. This, in turn, allows the right
side of the bolt to correctly align and
lock the cylinder. At the lower end of
the bolt tang, this solid body position
also helps maintain a consistent bolt
actuator tip location above the
rebound lever cam, necessary for
correct rebound pick up [drops the
bolt] and bypass [snaps it back up].
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Temporarily install the cylinder

bolt and bolt pivot screw in the
frame. Do not install the bolt
spring.
Thread in the bolt pivot screw.
Tightly seat the screw shoulder
against the frame.
Then check fit by hand working
the bolt.
When the bolt is fit correctly [still
without the bolt spring installed],
screw head tension on the bolt
and frame should cause the back
of the bolt to drag slightly when it
is moved by hand.
If the screw head is too tight, bolt
friction will be excessive, and the
bolt will bind on the frame.
Lightly stone the friction area at
the back of the bolt. See fig. 96.
If bolt fit is loose, lightly relieve
the bolt pivot screw shoulder
contact area inside the frame with
a piloted shoulder counterbore[5/32" O.D. X .095" pilot].
Do not fit the bolt pivot screw. If
it shows evidence of alterationreplace it.
Figure 95- Shows an E/I cylinder bolt [without spring]

temporarily installed in the frame to check cylinder bolt body
to frame fit with the bolt pivot screw fully seated. When the
bolt body and frame are correctly fit, [less spring] the back of
the bolt should drag lightly against the frame when the pivot
screw is tightened.
Figure 96- Shows stoning-polishing areas on the back sides of

D and E/I cylinder bolts, at "A", where friction areas are lightly
stoned to reduce pivot bind. At "B", the frame is lightly
counterbored to increase pivot screw seating depth and
tighten a loose cylinder bolt. The 5/32" counter bore used for
this work is shown at right.
80
Once locked, the cylinder must not
roll, or back roll, out of the locked
position.
Final Install Cylinder Bolt, Spring
and Bolt Pivot Screw
In D, E, and I frames, the easiest way
to install the bolt spring [without
losing it] is:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Figure 97- Shows close views of an E/I model bolt spring,

above, and a D model bolt spring, below. Both springs run
approx. .076-077" in diameter. The E/I spring is slightly
"coiled-in" and rounded at the bottom, and measures about
.340" in length. The shorter D spring is rounded at both ends
and measures just at .310", overall.
Drop the bolt in the frame and

position it at the top of its milled
recess.
Insert the spring into its tunnel at
the bottom of the bolt, rounded
end down.
Slip the base of the spring into its
seat in the frame.
Then, align the bolt, hold the
spring, and install and seat the
bolt pivot screw. Caution: Bolt
springs must be strong enough to
hold the locked cylinder bolt
position, but not so long that the
coils stop the bolt before it can
clear the cylinder. D, and E/I bolt
springs are coiled-in, or rounded
at the bottom to fit the frame's
bolt spring seat.
Check Cylinder Bolt Lockup
Figure 98- Shows checking bolt engagement and lock-up after

the bolt, bolt spring, and pivot screw nave been installed. The
cylinder is then locked in all six positions and the latch pin
inserted. The bolt head must engage about 1/32" [.032"- .035"].
In D, E, and I frames, the bolt

provides both cylinder lockup as well
as rotational alignment with the barrel.
The hand provides secondary lockup,
and prevents cylinder back-roll. See
figure 98.
In most frames, high point [right side]
cylinder bolt engagement will run
about .032-.035" [or just at 1/32"]. To
provide this engagement, the bolt head
in D, E, and I revolvers extends about
.080" above the frame, or just a little
over 5/64". Measuring bolt head
height above the frame is a useful
reference, but can't guarantee correct
bolt head engagement in the cylinder.
The bolt must lock the cylinder, hold
alignment, and prevent the cylinder
from rolling out of locked position.
See figure 98.
81
Elevate E/I Frame Bolt Head

When the cylinder bolt head is worn,
misfit, or has been overly corner
dressed on the low side, [the cylinder
back- rolls] and enough bolt head
material remains, the head can be
raised by filing or stoning the stop
area below the head. See figure 99.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Estimate the amount the bolt head

must be elevated.
File approximately half the
estimated amount from the bolt
stop shoulder.
Temporarily reinstall the bolt, and
re-measure height.
Repeat 1-3 until the bolt head is at
the correct height. Caution: Filing
or stoning the frame's bolt stop
ledge is incorrect and can damage
the frame. Remember: as the bolt
head is raised, the actuator tip
lowers. The rebound lever will
require adjustment. See figures
141 through 152.
Figure 99- Shows a close view of an E/I type cylinder bolt head
and stop shoulder. Bolt heads are elevated by carefully filing
and/or stoning the top of the stop shoulder, a little at a time,
until correct head height is reached. The bolt stop ledge in the
frame needs no fitting beyond very light de-burring. It must not
be altered.
Elevate D Frame Bolt Head

Two different D model bolts are
found. The later [flat stop shoulder]
replacement type is elevated in much
the same way as the E/I bolt. With the
earlier style, the stop shoulder step is
usually the first contact point. With
this type bolt, slight lowering of the
step raises the bolt head. Take extra
care not to file or stone the side of the
bolt head. See figure 100. Some
stepped-stop type bolts will have
frame seated and/ or may have been
previously refit. Stop contact may be
found in the flat area above the step. If
enough material remains with these
bolts, adjust the upper step first. After
elevating, always check and refit bolt
heads.
Figure 100- Shows two different styles in D frame cylinder bolt

stop shoulders. The bolt shown at "A" is an earlier type which
features a combined bolt stop and stepped bolt aligningadjusting shoulder. The later replacement bolt, at "B", has a
single, flat stop surface. D bolts are also elevated by stop
shoulder adjustment.
82
Figure 101- Shows close views of both sides of a late I model trigger. Side and end views of an early E
trigger are shown, at right. Important surfaces are identified. In Colt D, E and I revolvers, the trigger is a
multi-function part, directly responsible for timing hand, rebound lever, and safety linkage positions. Via
the rebound lever, the trigger also sequences the cylinder bolt and rebounds the hammer. For these
reasons, the condition and dimensions of all trigger surfaces are critical.
Figure 102- Shows close views of both sides of a late D model trigger. While this smaller trigger is very
similar to the E/I, it is not exactly a scaled down version. Hand pivot pin position, hand operating angle,
and single and double action hammer release points are slightly different with this trigger. Full
understanding of trigger function has always been the real key in troubleshooting any double action
revolver. This rule is especially true with D, E and I frames.
83
Detail Inspect D, E, and I Single

Action Sears
1. The sear point must be sharp and
straight, with the edge at 90 degrees to
the side of the trigger. If the sear is
chipped, pitted, damaged, or misfit,
replace the trigger.
2. The sear point correction bevel at
the top of the sear must not be over
cut, or over polished. See figs. 105 &
106.
3. The top of the S.A. sear extension
just behind the sear correction bevel
[D.A. strut cycling surface] must be
smooth for correct function.
4. The sear face must be smooth. The
bottom hammer engagement corner
must not be cut short. See figures 105,
106 and 202, in Section II.
5. The single action trigger cycling
shoulder [under sear extension] must
be polished for correct S.A. function.
Inspect Safety Linkpin Head
1. Safety link pins must be undamaged
and secure in the trigger. Pin heads
must not be altered beyond the slight
fitting necessary to prevent head drag
as the pin cycles the safety lever inside
the cylinder bolt recess. See figs. 103,
104, and 111 thru 115.
2. If the link pin head shows evidence
of drag marking, check to make sure
the pin is fully seated in the trigger.
3. If fully seated, lightly stone the
head and recheck for cylinder bolt
contact.
4. Whether the safety link pin required
fitting or not, always check pin head
fit in the safety lever slot. Once
installed, the head must not slip out of
the engagement slot in the safety
lever.
Figure 103- Shows a close view of an E/I type S.A. sear and
safety link pin. Inspection points are: 1. sear point, 2. sear face
surface, 3. S.A. trigger cycling shoulder [under sear extension],
4. safety link pin and bevelled head, 5. D.A. strut cycling
surface. If any of these areas are damaged, pitted, or misfit,
replace the trigger.
Figure 104- Shows a view of the sear side of a D trigger.

Sear and safety link inspection points are the same as E/I
model triggers. With D triggers, the safety link pin is square
cut rather than bevelled, and the inside corner of the single
action trigger cycling shoulder is radiused for correct S.A.
timing- don't alter.
84
D, E, and I Single Action Sears and
Trigger Pull
Figure 105- Shows an I model SA sear. As sear angle is moved

from zero to "A", the bottom engagement corner, or "sear seat",
at "C", rides lower in the cocking notch, and the sear point
rides lower. Both engagement and pull increase. As angle is
changed toward "B", the higher seat raises the engagement
point, decreasing SA pull.
Figure 106- Shows a D type SA sear. Pull is set in the same

way, mechanically; however, in finishing, the much thinner D
sear requires extra caution to prevent overcutting and/or
shortening the sear face. Short triggers can mis-time DA
hammer release early, and cause "strut-hits-trigger" problems
in single action.
In D, E, and I models, the exact

finished angle of the single action sear
face is not fixed. In final fitting, sear
angle will vary somewhat with the
individual frame and hammer. Sear
face angle has two basic functions:
first, the resulting bottom corner, or
sear seat position, determines just how
high the sear point will ride in the
hammer's SA cocking notch- after
that, the face angle then provides
clearance for the hammer toe on
release. In this design, the hammer's
cocking notch over-engages the sear
by a number of degrees. The rule is:
The higher the sear contact inside the
hammer's cocking notch, the lower the
force, or pull, that is needed to
overcome the rest of the notch. See
figs. 105 and 106.
Safe S.A. Trigger Pull
Factory minimum safe trigger pull is
listed as 3 lbs. for D and E frames, and
2 1/2 lbs. for I frames. To be safe,
hammers must not "push-off" at these
specifications. With D, E, and I model
sear engagements, correct trigger pull
works out to be approx. 2/3 sear
engagement fitting and 1/3 mainspring
pressure. Typically, factory fit single
action sear point engagements are set
about 2/3 of the way up the hammer's
SA cocking notch, and normally
provide the best single action trigger
pull without push-off. Caution: The
above is based on hammer cocking
notches in original factory condition.
Do not alter cocking notches.
85
Push-Off Caused by Trigger Sear

Mis-fitting
When a hammer in original factory
condition is single action cocked, and
the S.A. cocking notch can't overhaul
[over engage] the single action sear
with the sear point below the over
engagement ledge, the hammer will
push off. See figure 107. Depending
on surface polish, spring pressure, and
other variables, misfit triggers may or
may not hold S.A. cocked position at
all, and when they do, it is largely by
friction. Note: Sear point engagements
just at, or fractionally below, the
beginning of the over engagement
ledge, are not reliable- and may still
allow hammer push-off. Sear points
that are cut on an angle may ride, or
straddle the engagement ledge- and
also cause push-off.
Hammer Alteration
When the hammer's cocking notch is
altered, the hammer can't catch the
single action sear point below the
cocking notch over engagement ledge,
because the ledge has been either
changed or eliminated. While I have
never seen a brittle D E, or I hammer,
it's always possible that a re-heat
treated hammer might exist. A broken
engagement ledge could also cause
push-off. Part of the safe trigger pull
definition states: "the hammer must
not push-off". This includes push-off
from either side, as well as the back.
Push-off conditions could cause an
early single action discharge, and are
potentially unsafe for that reason.
Figure 107- Illustrates the main cause of hammer "push-off".

The mis-cut sear face shown places the sear point above the
over engagement ledge in the hammer's single action cocking
notch. In this extreme example, the sear face is both over-cut
and at the wrong angle. With too little sear over engagement,
hammers push off.
Figure 108- Shows a close view of an altered E model hammer

SA cocking notch. The edge of the over engagement ledge has
been stoned and rounded off. This single action cocking notch
can no longer over-engage. Even a well fit sear can't safely
hold this hammer. The rule is: leave SA cocking notches in
original condition.
86
Check Trigger-Frame Fit
If the particular revolver and internal
parts being checked are still factory
original, very likely the trigger is just
as initially fit. A simple, quick
inspection for drag marks and correct
frame pin fit is generally all that is
needed. But, when parts have been
replaced, and especially when late
parts have been installed in earlier
models, make the following checks.
1.
2.
3.
Figure 109- Shows E/I model trigger-frame fit inspection
points. Frame pin diameter and trigger fit on the frame pin are
checked at "A"; bolt drag inside the trigger's bolt clearance
recess is checked at "B"; safety link pin head clearance is
checked at "C"; and bolt contact [mostly in early E models] is
checked at "D".
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Figure 110- Shows D model trigger-frame fit inspection points.

At "A", frame pin diameter and trigger fit on the pin are
checked; at "B" and "C", drag at contact surfaces of both
trigger and bolt is checked; and safety link pin head contact is
checked at "D". D frame pin drag is usually found only when
link pins aren't seated.
Inspect the inside of the trigger

and the side of the cylinder bolt
for drag.
When trigger drag is found,
carefully dress the bottom corner
of the E/I bolt. See figure 109.
With D models, lightly dress drag
areas on the inside of the trigger
and on the side of the bolt. See
figure 110.
Check safety link pin heads for
drag marking. When present, seat
the pin.
If the pin is already seated and
still drags, lightly stone the head.
Remember; the pin head must be
large enough to hold the safety
lever captive, once engaged.
Check for bearing surface drag
marks on both sides of the trigger
indicating possible excess trigger
width or a tight sideplate fit.
Shiny, self polishing marks are
normal, and do not require
additional bearing surface
dressing.
If bearing surface drag marking is
present, check the sideplate for
raised areas and/or burrs at trigger
location. Level any found.
Also, lightly polish the left,
sideplate side, of the trigger on
#600 sand cloth.
87
Detail Inspect E/I Safety Assembly

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Inspect the safety lever and upper

safety. Both parts must be straight
and unbent.
Check safety lever pin slots at
both ends. Inside slot bevels must
be intact. Both slots must hold
safety link pins positively, once
engaged.
Inspect both hammer and upper
safety link pin for pin head
contact or drag.
If indication of drag is present,
lightly dress head of the link pin
and recheck fit. Don't undersize
the pin head. The head must not
come out of the slot, once
engaged.
Check positioning ring. It must be
unaltered and fit the outside of the
hammer boss without bind or
sideplay.
Inspect the 90 degree hammer
block extension on top of the
upper safety. The blocking
extension must be at full factory
width of .100"- .101" to
effectively block the hammer. Do
not under size the hammer block
extension. Warning: Don't fail to
detail inspect all safety system
parts. Replace any part that is
incorrect, worn, or shows any
sign of alteration.
Figure 111- Shows a close view of a connected I model safety

lever and safety. A closer side view of the safety, at right,
shows the hammer block and bottom link pin. Arrows indicate
inspection points. Safety assemblies should be closely checked
against correct factory parts. Replace any questionable safety
or safety part.
About E and I Safeties

The E type upper safety was used
from the beginning of the Army
Special Model to the end of Official
Police production in 1969. The E
upper safety was slightly modified for
use in the I model variation in the
early 1950's. This created a new and
separate part number. I frame upper
safeties are quickly identified by their
plated finish.
Figure 112- Shows an E model safety lever and safety. For
comparison, the I safety is shown at right. Both E & I models
use the same #50489 safety lever, but upper safeties are
different. I frames use a #51657 upper safety. E models now
use the #50372 replacement assembly since the original upper
safety is no longer supplied.
88
About D Frame Safety Assemblies-
Figure 113- Shows a connected late D model safety lever and

upper safety. A side view of a late upper safety is shown, at
right. At top, D trigger and safety link pins show the D model
safety link pin head style. In fitting, always compare safety
parts against correct factory new parts. Always replace
questionable parts.
Inspection points with D frame safety

assemblies are basically the same as
with E/I models. See figures 111, 113,
and 114. Early D frame upper safeties
function and look very much like
slightly shorter versions of E model
upper safeties. Also see inset
illustration in figure S-l. When the
new D frame hammer replaced the old
design, the original safety hammer
block extension was simply extended
a bit further upward [about .100"] to
engage the new hammer's higher
safety hammer block seat. The new
extension was slightly offset so that
frame modification was unnecessary
either in production- or for parts
replacement. What this amounts to is
that early and late upper safeties do
not mix or interchange.
When a late style hammer is installed
in an early D frame, the safety
assembly must also be replaced
because the early style upper safety
hammer block extension is .100" too
low and cannot stop a new style
hammer.
Late and intermediate D hammers
were manufactured with a milled
clearance recess for the upper safety
link pin, eliminating the possibility of
drag or contact at that point. When a
late style safety hammer block
extension is not correctly fit, or is bent
even slightly forward, it may drag or
bind against the frame as it tries to
move into the blocked hammer
position. This is sometimes mistaken
for a rebound seat problem.
Figure 114- Shows both early and late D model upper safeties.
The #56094 D safety lever used throughout production is
shown, below. Upper safeties are not available separately, but
only as a part of the correct assembly. With old style hammers,
use the #56171B safety assembly, and with late hammers use
the #56614 assembly.
89
Check Trigger and Safety Assembly

Linkage in Frame
After the trigger, trigger safety link
pin, safety lever, and upper safety
have been individually detail checked,
they should be installed in the frame
and then function checked as follows.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Check trigger and safety for

correct, no-drag fit at the hammer
boss and inside the frame's milled
upper and lower safety recesses.
The safety assembly must move
freely in the frame without
lubrication and with no noticeable
drag or bind.
If the upper safety arm, or the ball
at the end of the arm, drag while
inside the frame slot, lightly stone
safety contact points until drag is
gone. Don't undersize the safety
hammer block.
With hammer in frame, check
upper safety position. See fig.
115. Also, check hammer skirt
safety link pin clearance. Chamfer
hammer skirt as necessary.
Figure 115- Shows, at "A", operation of an I safety assembly

being checked after installation. Arrows show locations to
check for drag in the frame. An I frame hammer is temporarily
installed at "B" to check correct safety [hammer block] position
between the frame and the hammer when the trigger is fully
forward.
Check and Install Latch Pin

The cylinder latch pin has the primary
job of latching and then holding the
cylinder closed. But, subject to
existing vertical tolerance, it also
maintains the rear of the cylinder on
centreline, and holds this position
during the hand up, locked cylinder,
firing phase. Since there is the
tendency for a slightly long bottom
hand to push up on the back of the
cylinder during firing, latch pin fit
should be as close to zero clearance as
possible. Latch pins showing even a
small amount of wear should be
replaced. See figure 116.
Figure 116- Shows micrometer checking a latch pin, at "A"

before installing it in the frame at "B". Latch pins should fit
frames with near zero clearance. E/I frame latch pins measure
just at .250" diameter, and D frame latch pins measure in at
.199" diameter. When any amount of wear is evident, always
replace the pin.
90
Figure 117- Shows close views of E and I model hammers. Inspection areas and sub-part names are also
shown. Although the I hammer evolved from the E, differences in firing pin design and location make the
two hammers non- interchangeable. Otherwise, these hammers are so similar that the #50486 D.A.
hammer strut, #50454 strut spring, #50453 strut pin and #56105 hammer stirrup fit both hammers.
Figure 118- Shows close views of left and right sides of a late style D model hammer. Sub-part names
and inspection areas are shown. The D hammer has more machining detail on it than any other Colt
hammer. Early style D hammers are no longer available, but are replaced with late style hammers,
providing the matching late style #56614 safety assembly is installed with the hammer update. The same
#56107 D.A. strut, #50400 strut spring, #55105 stirrup, and #56108 strut/stirrup pin have been used
throughout D model production.
91
Check D and E Model Firing Pins

D and E firing pins semi- float on the
hammer's firing pin rivet. This style
pin must be both straight enough and
vertically free enough to self align as
the tip passes through the cone just
inside the recoil plate.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Check firing pin for free

movement in the hammer. If
resistant or stuck, soak the entire
hammer assembly in penetrant or
acetone.
If the tip is bent and strikes
primers to the right or left,
remove the firing pin and
straighten it on a bench block
with a brass hammer.
Reinstall firing pin, replace rivet,
peen, and then resurface sides of
hammer.
If primer indentations are low,
elevate by stoning the top back
edge of the firing pin. See figure
120.
If primer indentations are high,
stone the bottom back edge to
lower the firing pin. Note:
Marking the tops of shell casings
with a felt tip pen will provide a
helpful directional reference.
Figure 119- Illustration shows a top view of a D model recoil

plate and a bent firing pin. Except for overall size, D and E
firing pins are nearly identical. For correct function, firing pins
must be perfectly straight and free to vertically self align in the
hammer as the tip passes through the opening in the recoil
plate.
In addition to weak mainsprings and

excessive headspace, bent or
misaligned blade type firing pins are
one of the three main causes of
misfiring and erratic primer ignition in
D.A. revolvers. Primers must be
indented at a point fairly close to the
centre of the anvil inside the primer
for consistent, even ignition. Firing
pin strikes just at the edge of the anvil
may or may not generate enough
internal heat to fire the primer. See
figure 120.
Figure 120- Illustrates the two areas used in adjusting D and E

vertical firing pin alignment. Stoning the back of the pin, at
"A", rolls the tip further upward as it passes through the recoil
plate; stoning at "B" lowers the tip. Using only tired shell
casings as reference, align firing pins by adjusting pin strikes to
centre of primers.
92
Check I Model Firing Pin
Figure 121- Shows both I and J type, in-frame inertial firing

pins with correct, matching springs. Both I and J parts are
shown here for purposes of identification, since the longer,
thinner J model pin will drop into an I frame. Before installing,
be sure that the firing pin and spring are correct and in good
condition.
With I models, the firing pin should be

checked for tip condition and evidence
of separation [and, as well, to make
sure it's a correct part]. Most I frame
firing pins and springs checked will be
factory correct. However, now and
then you will find a wrong firing pin
installed. In a classic example, an I
frame [Python] was brought in with a
primer puncturing problem. Primers
showed no real indication of abnormal
pressure. Headspace was correct, but
pin protrusion measured in at .065"far in excess of the .056" factory
specified I model maximum. After
some discussion, the customer finally
told us that he had broken the original
firing pin during dry firing practice,
and then had taken the revolver to a
repair shop. The man rummaged
around in a box, found a spring and
pin, and dropped them in. As it turned
out, the pin was a J frame Colt part,
but the spring was unidentifiable. Use
only the correct #51231 firing pin and
#51232 firing pin spring in I frame
revolvers. The J model firing pin
shouldn't be used even temporarily for
the following reasons: the pin is too
long; diameter is too small; and tip
position is erratic in I frames.
Install I Firing Pin
1.
2.
3.
Figure 122- Shows correct installation sequence for the I model

firing pin and spring. Even though some parts diagrams show it
reversed, the large end of the tapered I model firing pin spring
should face the bottom of the I frame firing pin tunnel. Always
make sure the frame tunnel is clean and free of dried oil
residue.
Drop in firing pin and spring. See

figs. 121 and 122.
Start firing pin stop plate in the
frame.
Punch depress the pin head. Slide
stop plate down until firing pin
head snaps into place in the pin
port.
93
Check Firing Pin Protrusion

The fact is that firing pin protrusion
should always be checked during
refitting. Reassembly is the logical
time to gauge check and/or correct a
long or short firing pin problem.
Checking firing pin protrusion is an
easy, but much too frequently skipped,
inspection step. See fig. 123. When
too long, firing pins can puncture
primers. When too short, misfires can
result. Check firing pin protrusion
against the following table:
Frame/Cal.
Min.
Max.
D/22L.R.
.030
.035"
D/32N.P.
D/38Spl.
E/22L.R.
E/38Spl.
I/38Spl.
I/357M
.042
.042
.030
.040
.042
.042
.056"
.056"
.040"
.050"
.056"
.056"
Check Hammer Stirrup and

Rebound Seat
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Figure 123- Shows gauge checking for correct firing pin

extension with a firing pin protrusion gauge. This tool
measures how far the firing pin extends past the recoil plate.
The firing pin displaces the inner stem of the gauge; extension
is then measured with a micrometer; the amount of extension
equals firing pin protrusion.
Visually check stirrup. The arm

must be straight. The crosspin
should be in good condition and
filed to a width slightly narrower
than the body of the hammer, but
not narrower than the mainspring. If questionable, replace.
See figure 124.
Check the stirrup pin for tightness
in the hammer. If loose, replace
the pin.
If stirrup pin is still loose, lightly
stake the pin on both sides. Level
raised material.
Closely inspect rebound seat. The
seat should show rebound contact
marks only.
If the rebound seat has been
altered in any way, replace the
hammer.
Figure 124- Shows a close view of an E/I type hammer stirrup,

stirrup pin, and rebound seat. Although appearance is
somewhat different, inspection points with the D model
hammer are the same. Beyond staking loose pins and light side
polishing, the body of the hammer, and the rebound seat, must
not be altered.
94
Check D.A. Hammer Strut
Even a well fit DA strut can be a
problem if it's oil stuck.
Figure 125- Shows a close view of an assembled I model

hammer, D.A. hammer strut, strut pin, and spring. For smooth
double action function, the bottom tip of the strut can't be flat,
squared off, or rough, but must be finished to a sharp point,
then polished and rounded slightly with #600 sandcloth. Do not
shorten the strut.
1. The strut must snap back instantly

when released.
2. If return is sticky or slow, clean
parts in solvent, check the spring,
reassemble, and recheck strut return.
3. The strut tip must be pointed and
long as possible.
4. If strut tip is not smooth and lightly
rounded, polish the tip with #600
sandcloth.
5. Drop hammer assembly in the
frame and check SA-DA function and
strut let-out.
6. Let-out is increased by very lightly
filing the stop shoulder at the top of
the strut. If let-out is already
excessive, replace the strut. See
figures 125 & 126.
7. If the strut pin is loose, stake the pin
to the hammer body side with a
rounded staking punch. Level staking.
About Strut Let OutThe factory rule about strut let-out is:
the strut should be as long and as far
away from the hammer as possible,
but must not interfere with the sear
when the hammer is S.A. released.
Adjust strut let-out only when bolt
timing is correct. The strut must
release the hammer in D.A. mode only
after full cylinder lock up. Check strut
function in both slow and fast D.A.
Then, check in S.A. mode to make
sure the tip of the strut easily clears
the sear point as the hammer is
released. Caution: If the bottom hand
[second finger] is long, it may hold the
sear point low, possibly causing
contact with an extended strut. Correct
problem by fitting the hand.
Figure 126- Shows examples of factory fit I and D model DA

struts. Struts should be fit only to specific triggers. If let out too
far, the strut may contact or strike the sear on SA release. If letout isn't enough, DA hammer release can be early [before
cylinder locks]; firing pin strikes can be light and off-time;
misfires can result.
95
Check Single Action Cocking Notch

and Hammer Toe
D/E/I single action cocking notches
are designed to overhaul [over
engage] a correctly fit sear point. With
the sear point engaged, the ledge at the
top of the cocking notch extends past,
or overhangs, the sear, forming a
combined angle of less than 90
degrees. As the trigger is squeezed,
the sear pushes the engagement ledge
back slightly to escape the cocking
notch. Without the sear, the cocking
notch angle is greater than 90 degrees.
Some take this to mean that modifying
the SA notch is O.K. and won't hurt
anything. This is a gross error. Any
alteration of the notch can destroy the
over- engagement feature, and can
render the hammer unsafe.
Hammer Toe Fitting
When polished, the flat trigger pickup
surface above the toe, and the
chamfered corner at the forward edge
of the surface help make single action
trigger pick-up and cocking much
smoother. The 45 degree chamfer at
the top forward corner of the toe cuts
cycling drag by allowing the toe to
clear the bottom corner of the sear
easier. The bottom bevel, just above
the engagement ledge, helps cam the
single action sear point into cocked
position. Anything greater than very
light polishing at the bottom bevel
reduces the engagement ledge and, in
fact, alters the cocking notch.
Hammers with thin toes, over-cut
chamfers, bevels, and/or cocking
notch alteration must be replaced.
Figure 127- Shows a close view of an E/I type hammer toe.

Inspection areas are shown. Except for light contact polishing
from normal use, all surfaces should be in original factory
condition. The flat area at the top of the toe is polished and top
corner chamfered for smooth S.A. operation. No other fitting is
done.
Figure 128- Shows a close view of a D model hammer toe.

Inspection points are the same as with E and I hammers.
However, these surfaces are much smaller and harder to see.
Good lighting and a magnifying glass are needed for this job.
D, E and I hammers are heat treated, but do not require case
hardening.
96
Hammer-Trigger Pre-check
The following steps pre-check for
correct single action sear engagement
and release, and correct double action
strut pick-up and hammer release.
1.
2.
Figure 129- Shows an I model hammer and trigger, now ready

for mating/function pre- check after final SA sear and DA strut
fitting and inspection. This test is done in D, E, and I models
by cycling the trigger and hammer while simulating mainspring
pressure with fingers. This rules out most trigger/hammer
problems.
3.
4.
5.
Simulate spring pressure on

hammer and trigger, and slowly
SA cock the hammer until the
sear cams into the single action
cocking notch.
While holding forward pressure
on the trigger, try to push the
hammer out of the notch by
applying pressure to the hammer
spur. The hammer must not push
off. [The assembled action pushoff test is done later with sideplate
installed.]
Hold forward pressure on the
hammer spur and slowly squeeze
the trigger. The sear should
separate crisply.
Check DA by maintaining
forward pressure on hammer, and
slowly squeezing trigger until
strut by-passes trigger.
Then return the trigger and make
sure the double action strut
returns over the sear. If sear work
is needed, see figure 202, Section
II
Check Hammer Fit in Frame

1.
2.
3.
Figure 130- Shows an I hammer installed and ready for frame
fit checks. Possible frame- hammer drag check points common
to D, E, and I hammers are shown above. When latch pins or
safety assemblies have been replaced, always check for contact
or drag where the hammer block crosses the back of the latch
pin.
The hammer should pivot freely

on the hammer boss without
contact on the frame side, and
should clear all safety linkage and
safety link pins. I hammers
require "undercutting", or
chamfering the skirt, to prevent
catching safety link pin heads.
The hammer stirrup must be
straight and the crosspin must
clear the frame.
Lightly dress any contact marks
on sides of hammer, and remove
burrs and high spots in the frame.
See figure 130 for fitting areas.
97
About D, E, and I HandsIf, at initial pre-check, hand function

seemed normal, and the hand rotated
the cylinder to bolt index, it's very
likely that hand fit is either correct or
is in need of only slight adjustment.
The sections that follow cover this
subject in detail.
Nearly every surface of the hand has a
specific job. With this in mind, it's a
good idea to first discuss basic hand
function and fitting points. See figures
131 & 132.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
The hand's pivot pin connects the

trigger and hand and times them
together.
The tensioning cam at the bottom
of the hand's rebound lever slot
converts downward rebound lever
pressure to forward hand tension.
The front of the hand, or let-out
shoulder, controls the angle of the
hand's upward travel and
determines ratchet engagement.
Hand thickness, and/or a slight
bend just at midpoint, keeps the
hand in positive position at the
ratchet, and eliminates bind, or
gouging at frame or sideplate.
The top hand [or "top finger"]
engages the ratchet first and
rotates the cylinder.
The bottom hand ["second
finger"] picks up rotation and
indexes the bolt, and then
becomes a secondary cylinder
lock under the ratchet.
Both the top and bottom hand are
adjusted for correct cylinder
rotation and index.
Various hand edge bevels and
chamfers provide the necessary
shell head and hand operating
clearances.
Figure 131- Shows close views of a factory fit E/I model

cylinder hand. Inspection and fitting points are indicated. The
#50487 I hand also replaces the narrower #50456 original E
hand. When fit to an E frame, the wider I model replacement
hand requires less inward bend for correct ratchet contact and
frame clearance.
Figure 132- Shows close views of a factory fit D hand.

Inspection points for D, E, and I hands are the same. In fitting,
D, E, and I hands are bent very slightly at mid-point for correct
frame clearance and proper ratchet contact. This step provides
operating clearance, eliminates hand gouging, and controls side
play.
98
Check Hand Guide Surface
Figure 133- Shows a late D frame's hand guide surface. To

prevent hand interference, level raised edges found at the
ratchet recess corner with a fine stone and lightly break the
sharp corner. Level any ridges in the guide surface high enough
to interfere with the hand- but do not lower or otherwise alter
the guide surface.
Sometimes, a fairly new revolver may

be found with noticeable frame-hand
drag as the cylinder is being rotated.
With this particular problem, drag
generally starts after the hand has
lifted part way. Drag may, or may not,
continue through the rest of hand
travel. This is a bit different than
gouging caused by a mis-adjusted
hand. In a still assembled revolver, a
fast test to rule out whether there is
another cause of drag or bind [such as
a long hand or thick ratchet lug], is to
open the cylinder and cycle the hand
by itself. But, if drag was noticed on
initial pre-check, and the revolver is
already disassembled, closely inspect
the frame's flat hand guide surface and
also the edge where the hand travels
forward past the corner of the ratchet
recess. See figs. 133 and 134.
Typically, the following cause frame
related hand drag:
1.
2.
The frame guide surface is left

ridged or rough from dull tooling.
The hand must overcome a
machining ridge or ratchet
peening marks at the forward
corner of the ratchet recess.
Hand Drag & Polishing

Frame drag caused strictly by the hand
usually is because:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Figure 134- Shows a late I frame ratchet recess and hand guide
surface. The sideplate's hand slot is shown at left. The same
surfacing steps apply, except the E/I frame is large enough that
the corner of the ratchet recess should be lightly chamfered.
When well fit, the hand will leave a shiny contact mark in the
sideplate slot.
The hand is over-bent, making it

drag either the frame, sideplate, or
ratchet.
The top hand corner is
unchamfered and sharp.
The hand is too thick, causing it
to bind or drag between frame and
sideplate.
The sides of the hand have not
been polished.
99
About Hand Let-Out, D, E, and I

ModelsHand fit is critical in D, E, and I
revolvers. New factory replacement
hands are made somewhat oversize so
that enough surface material is
available for final fitting. In order for
a revolversmith to fit the hand to do its
main job of rotating the cylinder to
index with the cylinder bolt, the first
job is to pre-fit the hand to function
with the frame and, after that, with the
action. The last step is to adjust top
and bottom hand length. Differences
in frame post positions and thickness,
as well as slight differences in
triggers, make fitting let- out the first
step. Except for chamfering and
polishing the flat sides of the hand,
other fitting steps follow let-out. See
figures 135 and 136.
Let-Out Adjustment
The only real difference in letting out
D and E/I hands is that the smaller D
hand elevates on a greater angle. It
enters the ratchet faster and a little
further back than E and I model hands.
In letting-out hands, a good fitting rule
is that the hand's lower front adjusting
surface should be carefully filed until,
at full hand elevation, the top hand is
let out as far as possible, but short of
tip or forward point contact at the
bottom wall of the ratchet. This rule
applies even when the top hand is too
tall. When in the lower rest position,
the tip of the top hand cannot extend
past the frame's ratchet recess.
Figure 135- Shows a hand that wasn't let out enough. The front
edge of this hand correctly rides the frame post, but extra width
holds it back. Although the bottom hand lifts to a near normal
secondary lock position, the top hand skips by, misses the
ratchet, and can't rotate the cylinder. Let-out adjustment is
needed here.
Figure 136- Shows the let-out fitting area at the front of the
hand, at "A". The fitting area starts where the hand contacts the
frame's hand post, and continues to the bottom of the hand. The
upper hand area, at "B", is fit only when more shell head
cycling clearance is needed. D, E, and I hands are let out in the
same way.
100
Check D, E and I Model Forward
Hand Tension
Some amount of hand tension is
needed to keep the hand engaged in
the ratchet as the cylinder rotates.
When a hand or rebound lever is
replaced, the lever may not load the
hand's tensioning cam at the right
point. The result is low tension. See
figures 137 and 138. Check as
follows:
1.
2.
Figure 137- Shows an I model action with the hand installed to

check forward hand tension. The rebound lever is also installed
for this check, and spring pressure is thumb simulated. While
there isn't an exact specification for forward tension, it must be
at least enough to hold positive hand-ratchet engagement.
3.
4.
5.
Install hand in the trigger. Make

sure the pivot pin is straight and
not undersized.
Install the rebound lever and trial
pivot pin. Position the rebound
lever on the hand's tensioning
cam, then simulate mainspring
pressure.
Draw the hand back approx. 1/8"
with fingernail, and then release
it. It should snap back against the
frame post. Usual forward tension
is several ounces, or more.
If tension is too light or
nonexistent, carefully adjust
tensioning cam. See fig. 138.
If tension remains light, repeat
steps 3 and 4.
Caution: Hand tension is easily

increased by adjusting the tensioning
cam angle, as shown in fig. 138. But
first, make sure that forward hand letout is correct. Carefully adjust the
cam, and only as necessary. The cam
surface directly affects rebound lever
position. A changed rebound position,
in turn, affects cylinder bolt timing.
Replace misfit and/or overfit hands.
Nearly every fitting step involving the
bolt, trigger, and hand, will affect the
close relationship with these parts and
the rebound lever. Checking and/or
refitting the rebound lever is next.
Figure 138- Shows the action sides of D and E/I hands. As the
angle of the rebound lever's camming surface is changed
toward +, forward hand tension is increased. Make sure hand
let- out is correct before adjusting cam angle and forward
tension. A very small change in cam angle will increase
forward hand tension.
101
Check D, E, and I Hand- Sideplate

Fit
If the flat sides of the hand weren't
polished earlier to remove drag marks,
lightly polish them now using #400
sandcloth on a flat surface and #600
sandcloth to finish. If no drag marks
are found, polish only with #600. Do
not undersize the hand. Polish sides
just enough to eliminate drag. See fig.
139. Then, install the sideplate, cycle
the hand, and check fit.
Replacement Hand Width
As finished replacement parts, D and I
model hands are somewhat oversize,
and must be adjusted to correct width
and frame fit by polishing the sides
with #400 sandcloth. Top corners and
edges are chamfered for latch and
ratchet clearance. Also see figures 131
through 134. The #50487 I hand
replaces the original, and slightly
thinner, E model hand.
Figure 139- Illustration shows correct I model hand fit between

sideplate and frame guide surfaces. Little hand sideplay should
exist between the two. Adjusting bend centres the lower half of
the hand between frame and sideplate, helps eliminate drag and
gouging, and keeps the hand in positive ratchet contact.
Early E Model Hand Width

When being polished and refit, the
slightly thinner, original E model hand
may require a bit more bend, or offsetting, at midpoint for correct
alignment between frame and
sideplate. Caution: Off-setting hands
may slightly shorten overall hand
length. Stretching may be needed. See
figs. 165-166. Replacing E Model
Hands When original E hands are
replaced, the later I model hand is
used. Wider I replacement hands can
be fit to minimum sideplay in most E
frames with very little bend
adjustment. Polish both flat sides to
eliminate drag, as with I frames.
Figure 140- Shows a hand adjusting fixture, used for bending

D, E, and I model hands at midpoint to align the hand,
minimize sideplay, and improve ratchet contact. Bending the
hand too much, or too high, will bind the ratchet. The base of
the hand is off-set, a little at a time, with a brass drift and six
ounce hammer.
102
About The Rebound Lever-
Figure 141- Shows a D and I rebound lever. The original E

rebound is no longer available, but the #50462 I model rebound
is so close that it is used as a replacement by factory service.
The four rebound lever inspection areas are shown. The
vertical position of the rebound's cam is critical in that it
determines bolt timing.
Figure 142- Shows a cutaway view of an I type rebound and

bolt actuator tip. The oldest rule in fitting rebounds is: there
can be no clearance between the cam and bolt actuator tip,
otherwise, the bolt may not pick up in time. But, if the cam is
long and/or the front triangle is mis-fit, the bolt may be unable
to bypass and drop.
Long or short top and bottom hands

can't be realistically checked, or, for
that matter, finally adjusted, without a
direct reference to cylinder bolt
timing. The cylinder bolt is operated
and timed by the position of the
rebound lever. The rebound lever rides
the tensioning cam in the hand, and is,
itself, timed by the position of the
trigger. In this way, a well fit rebound
lever begins to move upward [and
instantly begins to pick up the bolt]
when the trigger is moved in double
action, and almost instantly when the
hammer is moved in S.A. The rebound
cam, located just at the inside
midpoint of the rebound lever, [see
figures 141 and 142] must be
positioned high enough in the frame to
correctly engage the cylinder bolt
actuator tip and, in turn, begin
lowering the cylinder bolt, instantly,
as the trigger is moved. But, the
rebound cam must not be so long, or
tightly fit, that it prevents the bolt
actuator tip from bypassing over the
bypass bevel at the front of the cam,
and dropping [snapping back] the bolt.
See fig. 142. What this amounts to is:
If the bolt can't pick up on time- the
cylinder can't be rotated. If the bolt
can't drop [or snap back up], there is
no bolt timing point. This is why the
rebound is always checked and
adjusted, etc., before beginning final
top and bottom hand fitting work.
Doing this any other way involves
guesswork, and can cause mis-fitting.
103
Check Rebound Lever

If bolt timing was correct at the initial
pre-check, and the same parts were
used with very little surface refitting,
the rebound could still be correct, but
must be checked. However, if action
parts were replaced, or the bolt head
was raised and refit, etc., the rebound
lever will have to be rechecked- and
will almost always require adjustment.
In checking the rebound, we are
asking the following basic questions:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Does the rebound cam pick up the

bolt actuator and cause the bolt to
respond instantly? (Is pickup
instant?)
Or, is the cam low (has clearance)
and bolt pickup is late? (Is pickup
delayed?)
Is the cam high? (The cam won't
let the actuator tip return back
over the rebound cam for the next
cycle.)
Is bolt timing correct? For
rebound adjustment, see the
following pages, and also rebound
work in Section II.
Figure 143- Shows an I model action with the rebound lever

installed for the rebound function check. The easily installed
and removed trial pin, above, is used during fitting, since the
rebound is usually taken out a number of times for fitting. The
cylinder is set aside until top- bottom hand adjustment and bolt
timing check.
If Rebound Cam Is Too High

When a rebound cam is only slightly
high, bolt response will be instant, but
the bolt actuator tip can hesitate, or
have trouble returning over the outside
corner of the cam. If the rebound cam
was just a bit higher, the actuator tip
couldn't return at all. With one of
these, if you finally pick up the
actuator tip with a high rebound cam,
it will hold the bolt slightly depressed.
In this case, the actuator tip might
appear slightly long- but is not. Do not
alter the bolt. The real problem is a
high rebound.
Figure 144- Shows a close view of the rebound cam and bolt
actuator tip in a cutaway I frame. The height of the rebound
cam relative to the bolt actuator tip is easily seen. Cam position
was just at a no clearance fit. After bolt head elevation the cam
is now a bit too high, since the tip is lowered by the elevation
amount.
104
Rebound Cam High, Cont.
Lower rebound cams by:
1.
2.
3.
Figure 145- Shows the three rebound lever lowering areas,

above. #1 and #2 are most often used; area #3 is fit mostly with
new rebounds. The bolt return fitting areas under the cam are
shown below. Lightly polish the outer (right) side of the cam.
With E/I rebounds, only, lightly break the upper front triangle
corner
Poor Bolt Actuator Return

When rebound cam height is correct,
but the bolt actuator tip drags or
doesn't return to correct action cycling
(pick- up position) at the top of the
cam, further rebound fitting is usually
required.
1.
2.
Figure 146- Shows typical bolt actuator tip return positions,

above. Slight bending of the bolt tang improves actuator tip
return position at the top of the rebound cam, and times bolt
drop. Small differences in parts fitting and internal frame
dimensions require fine tuning actuator tip position. See figs.
153 through 155.
Filing or stoning the rebound

extension lever where it contacts
the hand's tensioning cam. This is
a fine adjustment, only.
For larger adjustments bend the
main body of the rebound lever,
lowering the level of the cam. See
fig 215.
Slight rounding at the top front
bypass bevel corner- for E/I
models only. This is an initial
cam fitting step only, used to
improve bolt drop. But, the cam
may act as if too high or long
without it. Use caution here: the
cam surface will be undersized if
the front bypass bevel corner is
moved too far back. This also
quickens bolt drop.
Lightly polish the outer (right)

side of the cam. With E/I
rebounds, lightly break the sharp
upper front triangle corner. See
figure 145.
Then, cycle and recheck for
correct bolt actuator tip return
position. See fig. 146.
Warning: Bend bolt tangs at this timeonly if bolt act- actuator tip return is
poor due to existing adjustment. At
this point, we are dealing only with
bolt actuator tip return. Don't make
further adjustments at this time. Final
adjustment of the bolt actuator tip is
for bolt timing only, and is done after
the completion of rebound work.
105
Figure H- Shows views of an E/I type rebound lever cam, front bypass bevel bypass bevel corner, front
triangle, and front triangle corner. Always use good light and a magnifying glass when checking or fitting
the rebound cam.
A good measure of care and respect is needed in checking and fitting rebounds- and an extra measure
when it comes to final fitting, adjusting, and tuning the above critical cam surfaces. See figure 211 for D
model rebound data.
Old revolversmiths get an almost reverent look in their eyes when discussing this subject, and tell you, in
confidence, that rebounds are "touchy", and that if you are like the rest of us you will probably ruin a few
before you get the hang of fitting them. They are 100% right. Always go very slowly with rebounds, and
double check your steps. Be sure to keep extra replacements in parts stock. Murphy's law tells us that the
part you don't have in back up stock is always the one needed. With rebounds, it couldn't be truer.
One of the biggest mistakes made when a rebound is nearly fit, or is being finally adjusted, is to jump to
conclusions and do one of the following: finish the front of the cam at an angle; over-cut the bypass
bevel; round-oft the front triangle corner at the top; or over-cut the front triangle.
Any one, or a combination, of the above can cause two problems:
1.
2.
The bolt actuator tip bypasses too soon (the bolt snaps back up early).
The bolt actuator tip slips off and bypasses over the side of the front triangle, rather than over the
front bypass bevel corner (again, bolt snaps back up early).
When a rebound cam is over-cut, there is rarely enough material left to save it. In nearly every case, the
rebound lever will have to be replaced. Also see rebound replacement in Section II, this manual.
106
If the Rebound Cam is Low
Low rebound cams can be elevated or
repaired by:
1.
2.
3.
Figure 147- Shows a low rebound lever and cam. Clearance
between the top of the rebound cam and the bolt actuator tip
will cause delayed bolt pick up. Without instant bolt pick up,
the cylinder bolt head can slot-drag or jam cylinder rotation.
The bolt head must fully clear the cylinder before the hand
begins rotation.
Bending and arching the lever

body slightly upward. See figure
214. Caution: there are definite
limits to rebound adjustment. See
figure 148.
A useful method to keep working
parts original in early collectible
models, is to TIG weld a mild
steel 3/32" bead at the thin, lever
end of the rebound, and then reface and refit the lever. Copper
heat sinks are used in this process
to control heat.
Or, replace and refit the rebound
lever. See rebound replacement,
Section II.
With slightly low rebounds, refitting

the cylinder bolt head can remove a
small clearance at the rebound cam.
Note: Because refitting low rebounds
is labour intensive and costly, factory
service almost always replaces them.
From the viewpoint of fitting time,
labour charges, and etc., this is a wise
judgement call.
Hammer-Safety Interference
The problem with bending, or arching,
the body of a previously fit rebound
lever is that the rebound's hammer seat
surface [which rebounds the hammer]
is also moved upward in the process.
Past a certain point, the hammer seat
can't rebound the hammer enough to
clear the upper safety hammer block.
The safety can't slide into position
between the frame and hammer. In
this case, what usually happens is that
the hammer "catches" the safety and
blocks its travel. See figure 148.
Figure 148- Shows correct rebound contact at the hammer's

rebound seat, at "A". When the hammer rebounds correctly, the
safety easily moves into position. The rebound is bent so far
upward, at "B", that its hammer seat misses the hammer's
rebound seat. The hammer is too far forward and stops the
safety below the hammer.
107
Hammer Seat Problems

When a rebound is replaced, or when
refit lower, three problems can come
up having to do with incomplete
fitting:
Trigger Sear Can't Clear The D.A.
Hammer Strut
In this case, the rebound's flat hammer
seat surface is still too long where it
should contact the hammer heel, or
rebound seat. The remedy is to
carefully file the rebound's flat
hammer seat surface back, until the
hammer rebounds closer to the safety,
leaving about .005-.010" safety
clearance. Somewhere before this
point, the sear will clear the hammer
strut.
Rebound Drags on Hammer
This is usually caused by an incorrect
hammer seat angle and will show as
drag on the hammer heel/rebound seat.
Adjusting the angle corrects the
problem. See figure 150.
Figure 149- Shows an I model action with an incorrectly fit

rebound. The flat hammer seat area is correctly cut, but the
bottom bevel is not. The extra corner material rides the
hammer heel and holds it too far back. There isn't enough heel
clearance to allow the rebound to correctly engage the
hammer's rebound seat.
Rebound Rides on Hammer

1.
2.
3.
Check by holding the trigger back

and pushing forward on the
hammer [with hammer down].
Check for "hammer bounce"- a
sign that the upper hammer heel is
deflecting the rebound lever.
Adjust hammer seat length. See
warning below.
Dress bottom hammer seat corner
at approximately 45 degrees. See
figs. 149 & 150.
Hammer Catches The Safety

This is caused by a misfit [short]
hammer seat. The rebound must be
replaced.
Warning: The hammer seat must not
be undersized or cut at such an angle
that the rebounded hammer position
can no longer provide safety
clearance. Never fit or alter the
hammer's rebound seat.
Figure 150- Shows rebound hammer seat and clearance bevel

fitting areas. If the hammer seat is too long, or cut at a wrong
angle, the rebound will ride the hammer. If the bottom
clearance bevel isn't cut deep enough, the rebound will still ride
the hammer; if too deep, the hammer seat can't rebound the
hammer.
108
Other Rebound Related Problems
Sometimes, after a precision job of
rebound replacement, or bolt, rebound,
and hand refitting, the hand/rebound
lever junction will get sticky. Also,
after close fitting, and test firing, the
cylinder bolt can seat-in, making the
bolt actuator tip drag or stop returning
over the rebound cam. Although both
can be head scratchers, they are very
easily handled.
Rebound Lever/Hand Drag
Figure 151- Shows the three common rebound lever/hand

surface drag areas. Drag at "1" or "2" is most common, and can
range From slight resistance to enough drag to stick the trigger
and prevent hammer rebound. Drag at "3" is caused by rough
lever bevels and/or a rough or sharp top corner at the hand's
tensioning cam.
If the rebound lever drags inside the

hand, the action will feel slightly
rough. When drag is extreme, the
trigger can stick and will hold the
hammer forward. See figure 151.
Look for drag marks and clearance the
appropriate surfaces. Polish contact
areas only as necessary to eliminate
drag. Don't undersize contact surfaces
or alter correct rebound lever fit.
Actuator Tip Stops Returning
When this occurs, the rebound cam
will seem slightly high, again. But,
what has actually happened is that the
bolt has seated against the frame's bolt
stop shoulder. This, in turn, lowers the
bolt actuator tip. Also, during seating,
the tip flares slightly at the left corner.
Depress the rebound to test for bolt
seating and bolt actuator tip return. Fit
rebound lower.
While fitting, a way to check for this
problem [and seat the bolt] is to rock
the hammer 50 plus times, causing
rapid bolt drop and actuator return. A
half box of test rounds through the
revolver usually produces the same
result.
Figure 152- Shows rebounds and bolt actuator tips in a cutaway frame. The tip at "A" stopped returning over its zero
clearance rebound cam after 30 to 40 bolt cycles. This was
caused by bolt/frame seating, and slight flaring at the actuator
tip bottom corner. On the other hand, the rebound at "B" is just
too high.
109
Figure 153- Shows rebound cam areas in 1 through 5 that must be well fit before the cylinder bolt tang
can be pre-adjusted or final adjusted to correct bolt timing as discussed in 6, 7, and 8.
1.
Cam surface- the front bypass edge of the cam must be square and kept at 90 degrees in all D and
E/I models to prevent "slip off" and early bolt drop.
2.
Bypass bevel corner- with E/I models, bolt drop may not occur, or may be late, when the bypass
corner of the cam is too far forward. Normally, with E and I models, the front bypass bevel corner
is slightly rounded for correct bolt drop. With smaller D model cams, the bypass corner is not
rounded.
3.
Bolt bypass bevel- bolt drop will be early if the front bypass bevel face is too far back, or, with E/I
models, the top corner has been over-rounded.
4.
Front bypass angle- this surface is normally adjusted only on D rebounds. If angle is incorrect, the
bolt tip may drag on bypass or be "hard-over-the-cam".
5.
Front triangle corner and lower front triangle- the bolt actuator tip can slip off and drop early if the
top outside corner of the front triangle is more than slightly broken. D model top triangle corners
are left square. Incomplete front triangle fitting can cause bolt tip hesitation or failure to escape the
front bypass bevel. If the lower triangle surface is over-cut, the bolt will drop early.
6&7. Bolt tang- the actuator tip will escape at the front triangle and drop the bolt early if the tang isn't
bent inward enough. When adjusted (bent) toward the rebound, the actuator tip tracks a greater
distance down the bypass bevel face before escaping over the front triangle. This delays bolt drop
timing.
8.
Bolt actuator tip- edge flanging and/or burrs at the tip can delay bolt drop and also prevent tip
return over the top of the cam. Actuator tips that have been altered, shortened, or worn overly
round will drop early.
Closely examining bolt timing will tell you if any of the above surfaces might need fine adjustment.
Long, and slightly off-time, rebound cams are easily refit. To fine adjust the bolt return area (right side)
and front bypass bevel face, polish with #400 sandcloth. For correct drop timing points, see figures 154
and 155.
When bolt drop timing is slightly late, and/or when the cylinder "throws by", some gunsmiths compensate
by increasing forward double action strut let-out. This procedure is not a recommended remedy. Adjust
bolt drop timing first, and then, only if necessary, adjust the strut to time the hammer. Short, overfit
rebound cams, and worn bolt actuators, drop bolts early and must be replaced.
110
About Bolt Drop TimingPreconditions: Correct bolt height,
head contour, and profile; instant bolt
pick-up; the bolt fully clears the
cylinder before rotation; and all
rebound work completed. Note: The
terms "bolt drop" and "bolt drop
timing" are from the original factory
bolt fitting/inspection procedures that
place the revolver on its left side, with
grip frame up. This points the bolt
head down. In this position, the bolt
"picks up" as it retracts into the frame,
and "drops" to engage the cylinder.
E/I Bolt Drop Timing
Figure 154- Shows I model bolt slot leads, and the ideal,
middle 1/3, cylinder bolt drop timing zone. At left, index marks
indicate maximum allowable early and late bolt drop positions.
Always time drop within the ideal zone of the lead. With
original, shorter lead E cylinders, time bolt drop to the approx.
centre of the lead.
For best results, time I model cylinder

bolts to drop into the middle 1/3 of the
longer I type cylinder bolt lead.
Ideally, E model bolts drop time best
between 1/3 and 1/2 way into the lead.
See figs. 154 & 155. Remember, the
riding point of the bolt marks the lead.
Because older bolt marks may not
provide a correct current reference,
always directly check bolt drop
position by eye, holding revolver in
hand, right side up. If drop timing
requires adjustment, see figure 153.
D Bolt Drop Timing
Bolt drop timing in .38 calibre D
models is ideal at the centre 1/3 of the
cylinder bolt lead, but can be timed
slightly earlier than I models. See
figures 154 and 155. In .22 calibre D
models, bolt drop timing is correct
only when inside the middle 1/3 of the
bolt lead. See figure 155. If bolt
timing is early or late, see figure 153.
Figure 155- Shows D model .38 and .22 cal. bolt timing limits.
When bolt drop is late, [too close to the bolt slot] fast rotation
of the cylinder in rapid fire may cause cylinder throw-by [bolt
can't enter bolt slot in time]. Misfires can result. With early
drop, the bolt head drags against the body of the cylinder.
111
Figure 156- Shows an I model frame, action, and cylinder. A summary is given
below of checks and fitting work that must be done before the cylinder is reinstalled for top and bottom
hand checks and/or hand fitting:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Cylinder work is done, headspace and endplay are correct.

Sear and hammer are correct, without push-off; trigger return is smooth.
Hand let-out is correct.
Forward hand tension is correct.
Hand/frame fit is correct, without drag between frame and sideplate.
Instant pick-up is present (rebound picks up bolt in time for rotation).
Rebound lever rebounds hammer with safety clearance.
Rebound's hammer seat does not bind, drag, or "bounce" the hammer.
Safety system clears action parts without drag.
Bolt drop timing (or pre-timing*) is correct.
Bolt actuator tip returns correctly over the rebound cam.
Important note: *When the bottom hand is new, or bottom hand length is unknown bolt drop can be pretimed, only. See inset copy and illustration, above. Bolt drop timing can be fine adjusted only after
bottom hand fit is correct.
In this manual, keep in mind that we are discussing D, E, and I models already in use- and earliest to
latest production, as well. Logically, depending on the model being serviced, certain checks and fitting
steps have to be done first, otherwise, one step tends to get in the way of another. It's probable that,
without a correct fitting sequence, parts might have to be refit.
To some revolversmiths already fully qualified in Colt D, E, and I frame action work, it may seem that a
few of the above listed fitting steps could be done in a slightly different sequence. If you have a safe,
reliable system, or fitting sequence, that saves time, prevents parts damage, and repeated parts fitting, by
all means use it. However, the top hand cannot be checked or fit without instant bolt drop, and the bottom
hand can't be checked or fit unless bolt drop timing is correct (or very nearly correct).
112
Figure 156A- Shows a cylinder and ejector ratchet, that, from the viewpoint of fitting a top and bottom
hand, are in reject condition. The ejector has excess sideplay and is loose on the cylinder's ejector guide
pins. Also, one of the guide pins has been chamfered so low that it can no longer hold or align the ejector.
Top and bottom hands cannot be reliably fit when excess sideplay exists. In this case, the ejector star
fingers overlap into the chambers. When shell casings are chambered, the star and ratchet are placed in
one position, and when chambers are empty, the ejector and ratchet float. With this cylinder, the ratchet
lugs do not take the same exact position twice. This means there could be no correct top and bottom hand
length unless the ejector star was undersized at the chambers to prevent cartridge case interference, and
each ratchet lug was then individually adjusted to work with the hand. This would amount to a whole lot
of work to attain very poor results. The correct approach is to reject such cylinders, and fit hands only to
ejector/ratchets with near zero sideplay.
Top and Bottom Hand Fitting Caution:
In figures 156 through 168, we are discussing fitting top and bottom hands to ratchets that have been
previously fit. Specifically, the ratchets we're talking about already have been fit to agree with their
cylinders, and have ratchet lugs that have been adjusted before. Presumably, these ratchet lugs are more
"equal" than would be the case with new and unfit ratchets.
With new ratchets and/or new cylinder/ratchet assemblies, top and bottom hand fitting requires extra
caution. This is because the new ratchet lugs have not been adjusted yet. As far as the hand is concerned,
the new lugs are, to some extent, "unequal". The problem is that hands can be over-cut [this makes a short
hand] if top and bottom hand are pre-fit to the wrong lug. For this important reason, the procedure for
fitting the top and bottom hand to a new, or unfit, ratchet is a bit different. See hand replacement and
cylinder assembly replacement in Section II.
113
E/I Top & Bottom Hand Fit

Check E/I Top Hand
Preconditions: fig. 156 & top- bottom
hand caution, 156A.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Be sure bolt pivot screw is seatedif it loosens, bolt timing will

become erratic.
Reinstall the cylinder. Centre lock
with latch pin.
Check top hand length by rocking
the hammer at each ratchet
position. If the top hand is long,
early rotation can slot-drag, or
bind the bolt. When drag is
present, make sure it isn't at the
upper safety and latch pin.
When the top hand is long,
carefully reduce the top surface,
without changing the angle, until
the bolt clears the cylinder
without drag. Make sure the bolt
isn't high.
A low, or thick ratchet lug will
make a well fit hand seem long,
and bind at that lug position only.
See fig 167.
With a short top hand, cylinder
rotation is delayed, also, the
bottom hand may bind or drag
against the 2nd ratchet lug.
Caution: Lug bind can be caused,
also, by a long bottom hand.
Always check this before
stretching or replacing the hand.
Figure 157- Shows correct E/I hand function. The top hand, at
"A", begins cylinder rotation. The bottom hand picks up the
second ratchet lug about half way between the chambers, and
supports rotation. At "B", the top hand clears the ratchet at
about 95% rotation. The bottom hand carries the cylinder to
positive bolt index.
Check E/I Bottom Hand

1.
S.A. cock the hammer very

slowly, watching the bottom
hand. It should pick up the 2nd
ratchet lug just at, or slightly
before, the half rotation point.
The bottom hand must be long
enough to carry the cylinder to
positive index. If short, the hand
will have to be stretched, or
replaced. When long, the bottom
hand can prevent single action
sear overhaul.
Figure 158- Shows a well fit E/I bottom hand. After bolt index,
and the sear/hammer notch is engaged, the bottom hand will
just clear the second lug by the amount of sear overhaul. At
trigger squeeze, the bottom hand lifts the second lug just
enough to remove bolt/slot/lug clearance and becomes the
second cylinder lock.
114
Check E/I Bottom Hand,
Continued2.
3.
4.
Figure 159- Shows an I model hand and ratchet. In this

example, the top hand is long and tries to rotate the cylinder
before the bolt fully clears the slot. The bolt slot-drags. If the
hand was slightly longer, the bolt would jam rotation. A high
bolt head or low rebound can also cause this problem. Correct
both before hand work.
Figure 160- Shows a short I bottom hand. This hand can't rotate
the cylinder quite enough to index the bolt. If the cylinder is
not aligned, a potentially dangerous condition, the forcing cone
is loaded unequally, bullets are upset, and pressure curves
affected. Most short hands can be stretched and refit on a one
time basis.
5.
If the bottom hand is just slightly

long, it may cause the S.A. sear to
hold low and drag against, or
bump, the hammer toe on S.A.
release. And if much longer, the
cylinder can ratchet drag or bind
just at half rotation.
When the cause of ratchet bind is
in question, recheck for a short
top hand before adjusting the
bottom hand. Note: A long
bottom hand can also cause rough
SA sear release, and when very
long, prevent S.A. sear overhaul.
Carefully file, and then stone, the
bottom hand until the bottom
hand rotates the cylinder to full,
positive bolt index somewhat
before single action sear
engagement in the hammer's
cocking notch. Do not change the
original hand engagement surface
angles.
The bottom hand should be left
just a bit long for bench seating.
[S.A. overhaul will be slightly
stiff.] The reason for extra length
is: after test firing, the hand and
ratchet will seat. The hand that
was originally fit at the bench just
to perfect length then winds up
slightly on the short side. See
figure 169 hand/ratchet seating,
and fig. 164, short hand warning.
Warning: Bottom hand/lug fit and
bolt index must be detail checked
at all six ratchet lug positions.
Otherwise, a well fit bottom hand
may not be able to rotate the
cylinder to full bolt index against
an over-cut or misfit ratchet lug.
Damaged, misfit ratchets or
cylinder/ratchet assemblies must
be replaced.
115
D Top & Bottom Hand Fit

Check D Top Hand
Preconditions are same as E/I. See fig.
156 and top- bottom hand caution,
156A.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Be sure bolt pivot screw is seated.

If it loosens, bolt timing will
become erratic.
Reinstall the cylinder. Centre lock
with latch pin.
Check top hand length by rocking
the hammer at each ratchet
position. If the top hand is long,
early rotation can drag or bind the
bolt head. A low ratchet lug will
make a closely fit hand seem
long, and bind at that lug position
only. See figure 168. When drag
is present, make sure the safety
isn't dragging at the back of the
latch pin.
If the top hand is long, carefully
reduce top surface, without
changing angle, until the bolt will
just clear the cylinder without
drag. If there is any question
about bolt drag, first recheck bolt
height before fitting hand.
A short top hand, if combined
with a low bolt or rebound, may
allow the bolt to clear without
drag. But, with the cylinder's
rotation delayed, the bottom hand
may bind or drag against the 2nd
ratchet lug. Caution: Bind also
can be caused by a too long
bottom hand. For this reason,
always check bottom hand length
before stretching or replacing
hand.
Figure 161- Shows correct D hand function. At "A", the top

hand picks up the ratchet lug and begins rotation. The bottom
hand engages the next lug at about 90% rotation and carries the
cylinder to bolt index. At "B", the bottom hand becomes the
second cylinder lock, maintaining positive lock position during
the firing cycle.
Check D Bottom Hand

1.
SA cock the hammer very slowly,

watching the bottom hand. It
should first pick up the 2nd
ratchet lug just at, or slightly
before the approx. 90% cylinder
rotation point.
Figure 162- Shows a well fit D bottom hand. As with E/I

hands, after bolt index and S.A. sear/hammer notch
engagement, the bottom hand will just clear the second lug by
the amount the hammer toe needs to overhaul the sear. On
trigger squeeze, the bottom hand lifts the 2nd lug, eliminating
bolt/slot/lug clearance.
116
D Bottom Hand, ContinuedThe bottom hand must be fit long
enough to carry the cylinder to
positive index. If short, the hand will
have to be stretched, or replaced. See
figures 161 through 164.
2.
3.
Figure 163- Shows an I hammer toe dragging the S.A. sear on

hammer release. Sear-hammer toe bumping or drag is nearly
always caused by a long D, or E/I bottom hand, and less often
by a long sear extension or a rough, unbevelled hammer toe.
Pre-checking both sear and hammer toe can prevent
overcutting the bottom hand.
4.
If the bottom hand is just slightly

long, it may cause the SA sear to
hold low, feel rough, or drag
against the hammer toe on S.A.
release. Note: When very long, a
bottom hand can also prevent
S.A. sear point overhaul.
Carefully file, and then stone, the
bottom hand until the bottom
hand rotates the cylinder to full,
positive bolt index somewhat
before single action sear-cocking
notch engagement. Depending on
let out and angle, D bottom hands
may require a slight angle
adjustment for correct ratchet lug
engagement.
The bottom hand should be left
just a bit long for bench seating.
[When long, S.A. overhaul will be
stiff.] The reason for this is: when
bottom hands are bench fit to
what seems a perfect length,
sometimes, after test firing, the
hand and ratchet will seat and
wind up slightly on the short side.
See figure 164 for short hand
warning, and 170 for hand/ratchet
seating.
Warning: Bottom hand/lug fit and bolt

index must be detail checked at all six
ratchet lug positions. Otherwise a
correct bottom hand may not be able
to rotate the cylinder to full bolt index
against an over-cut or misfit ratchet
lug. Replace damaged, misfit ratchets
or cylinder/ratchet assemblies.
Figure 164- Shows a D model with a short hand problem. Here,

the hammer's single action cocking notch is on the verge of
overhauling the single action sear, but the short bottom hand
can't fully rotate the cylinder to positive bolt index before the
sear is overhauled. This hand must be stretched and refit, or
replaced.
117
Stretch Short D or E/I Hand

When hands are found short from long
wear, slight over- fitting, or from
hand-ratchet seating, overall length
can be increased, in most cases, by
peening and stretching the hand. See
figs. 165 and 166. Factory service
procedures do not call for annealing
the hand or stretch area inside the
rebound slot, before or after peening.
Although some gunsmiths stretch
hands a second time, the practice is
not recommended, since work
hardening and crack potential are
increased with peening. There are
several stretching methods, including
the direct peening of the stretch area
with a cross-peen hammer, but the
best approach is to:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Estimate stretch length that is

needed by inserting a feeler gauge
strip between the bottom hand
and ratchet.
Measure hand length. Add stretch
length for new overall refitting
size.
Place hand, outside down, on a
solid steel bench block. Block
surface must be 100% flat and
smooth. See fig. 166.
Install stretching punch inside the
hand's rebound slot. Then, strike
moderately with an 8 ounce ball
peen. Change punch position and
re-measure with each strike.
Stretch hand slightly over actual
length needed to allow for final
fitting and seating. Don't increase
overall hand length by more than
.010".
Before fitting, always closely
inspect the hand for possible
beginning cracks.
Then, refit the hand. See hand
fitting sections, and also figures
169 and 170.
Figure 165- Shows the thin peening area inside the hand's
rebound slot. Hands are peened only on a one time basis.
Typical stretch requirement is about .002"-.005"; with stretch
limit at .010". Depending on hand thickness, previous bending,
etc., there is always the risk that a hand may work harden or
crack, and have to be replaced.
Figure 166- Shows basic tooling for stretching the hand- a flat
peening/stretching punch and polished steel bench block. The
punch is ground from a cold chisel. The face is stoned smooth.
Increased contact area expands and stretches more of the hand
surface at one time, with less work hardening, decreasing crack
potential.
118
About Ratchet FittingIf the top hand is still a bit tall, the bolt
will be draggy, and the cylinder will
tend to jump into rotation just as the
bolt clears. Further light top hand
fitting is required. If the bolt is still
draggy at one cylinder lug, that lug
may be low. Confirm this possibility
by engaging and locking that lug with
the bottom hand.
Low or Thick Ratchet Lug
1.
2.
3.
Figure 167- Shows E/I model ratchet lugs and fitting areas.
When a lug is rough, too thick or slightly off index, its position
is usually low compared to the other lugs. This lug may cause
the cylinder bolt to slot-drag or even jam the cylinder. With a
low lug, the hand will seem long, but only at the lug, or lugs, in
question.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Mark the possible low lug with a

felt tip pen.
Cycle check and re-mark the
questionable lug several times to
eliminate error.
Inspect the marked lug for nicks,
dents, or burrs. With the tip of a
fine flex stone, lightly dress the
lug's hand engagement surface .
Then, recheck bottom hand/lug
engagement.
If only the marked lug binds lockup, causes sear drag, etc., file a
very small amount from the lug
surface with a fine cut barrette
file. Keep the lug surface flat and
at the original factory angle.
Lightly dress the filed area and
then recheck lug function with
bottom hand.
If necessary, repeat above steps 4,
5, and 6.
Over-fit Ratchet Lugs

An over-fit lug is too short to allow
the hand to carry the cylinder to bolt
index. This is a potentially unsafe
condition. Remedies are:
1.
2.
Figure 168- Shows D model ratchet lugs and lug fitting areas.
Since the D top hand does not bypass, this ratchet has no
bypass clearance bevel. With fewer set-up and machining steps
involved, lug position is seldom off index. Fine cut 4" barrette
files and fine flex stones are the best tools for D and E/I ratchet
lug adjustment.
If over-fit is slight, stretch or

replace hand and then
individually fit each lug.
If over-fit is more than slight,
replace the ratchet and cylinder
assembly.
Caution: Recheck bolt index timing

before ratchet work.
119
Bottom Hand Seating

Some amount of bottom hand seating
always occurs after fitting, and during
test firing. When ratchets are new, or
have been newly adjusted, lug
surfaces also seat during firing. This
seating adds to bottom hand seating,
creating a condition called "bottom
hand short". See figure 169.
Seating is most evident when, after a
half box, or more, of test ammunition,
the bottom hand that was just right at
the bench is then slightly short.
Usually, little will be wrong with the
hand fitting job, except that no
allowance was made for surface
seating.
Hand, Hand/Ratchet Seating
The best ways to seat hands and
ratchets involve fitting the bottom
hand just slightly long. You can then
either:
Seat by Test Firing Method1.
2.
Figure 169- Shows ratchet areas where the lug undersurfaces

seat from bottom hand contact. The bottom hand engagement
will also seat. Machine and file fitting marks on both contact
surfaces are flattened in seating, and slightly undersized as a
result. Initially, bottom hands should be fit a bit long, for this
reason.
Fully assemble the revolver,

function check, and then test fire
each chamber four or five times.
If bottom hand still seems a bit
long, disassemble, stone lightly,
and repeat test fire.
Seat by Impact Method1.

2.
3.
4.
5.
Install the sideplate.

Place the trigger guard on padded
bench top.
S.A. cock the action; let hammer
down; pull trigger back; hold
hand hard against the ratchet lug;
then sharply rap the top back of
the frame with a rawhide mallet.
Impact at all six chamber
positions. Repeat as needed.
Recheck hand function.
Don't skip hand fitting steps. Never fit

the hand slightly on the long side, then
leave final seating to the owner.
Figure 170- Shows the bench hand/ratchet seating method,

worked out by revolversmith Al Sholes. With this system, the
bottom hand is fit slightly long and held hard against the
ratchet lug at each chamber position. Then, the top of the frame
is rapped with a rawhide mallet. This is the bench equivalent of
seating by test firing.
120
Hand/Shell Head Clearance
At minimum headspace and cylinder
endplay, .38/.357 shell head clearance
averages just at .005-.006". With small
variations in hand let-out and wear at
the frame's hand post surface, the front
corner of the top hand and/or the front
area just below the bottom hand may
drag or bind against shell heads during
cylinder rotation. A small amount of
additional hand fitting is necessary to
provide clearance between the front of
the hand and chambered shell cases
during cylinder rotation. See figures
171 and 172.
1.
2.
3.
Figure 171- Shows dummy .38 shells installed for shell head
clearance check. The front corner of the top hand, at "1", is
filed and polished for shell clearance. The forward edge, at "2",
is lightly dressed when it interferes with or drags shell heads.
The inside hand surface is polished, at "3", to eliminate drag at
back of the ratchet.
4.
1.
Install three fired [empty] shell

cases in cylinder.
Slowly S.A. cock hammer.
Check for shell contact at top
hand point, and at front surface
below bottom hand.
Bevel and polish corner of top
hand as needed for clearance. See
figure 171.
5. File and polish shell head
contact area below bottom
hand. See figs. 171 and 172.
Polishing the Hand for Smooth

Action
After peening and shell head clearance
work, some areas of the hand may not
be as smooth as they should be.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Figure 172- Shows hand's shell head clearance fitting areas at

"A", and smooth action fitting areas at "B". Slight hand
irregularity, after peening, may cause drag or bind at sideplate
or rebound lever. After peening, check and polish the rebound
recess and the outside of the hand. Break sharp edges and
bottom hand corner.
Closely inspect rebound recess

and file any raised material left
from peening.
Level any peening marks on the
outside of the hand.
If not already done, lightly break
the front corner of the bottom
hand.
Then, lightly chamfer all sharp
edges and top corners that might
contact or drag the frame and
sideplate.
121
Check D, E and I Mainspring

The easily identified #56090 D model
mainspring is somewhat smaller than
the #57122 mainspring used in I
model production. The #57122 I
mainspring replaces the much earlier
#50359 E mainspring. Closely inspect
the arms and ends of the mainspring.
If the mainspring is altered by
grinding, filing narrower or thinner,
has been twisted, has excessive
recurve, or shows evidence of other
damage, do not use it- replace the
spring. Weak or incorrectly tensioned
mainsprings can cause light, possibly
unsafe, single action trigger pull,
misfires, poor rebound function, and
trigger return problems, as well.
Factory Specified SA PullModel Min.
Max.
D/22
3.0 lbs
5.0 lbs
D/32
3.0 lbs
5.0 lbs
D/38
3.0 lbs
*5.0 lbs
E/32
3.0 lbs
4.5 lbs
E/38
3.0 lbs
4.5 lbs
I/38
2.5 lbs
4.5 lbs
I/357 2.5 lbs
4.5 lbs
*Factory specified maximum pull for
late Agent is 7 lbs.
Figure 173- Shows an I model mainspring and tensioning

point. D and E/I mainsprings tension by bending upward at
approx. 7/8" to 1" from the middle of the stirrup seat. The
factory I model mainspring clamp, shown below, is used
primarily in rebound adjustment, but can be used as a
mainspring installation tool, as well.
If overly strong, or poorly adjusted,

the mainspring will produce heavy,
increased S.A. and D.A. trigger pull.
See figs. 173, 174, and 177.
Set mainspring tension to not more
than factory specified maximum D.A.
trigger pull:
Factory Maximum DA PullD/22
14 lbs max.
D/32
14 lbs max.
D/38
14 lbs max.
E/32
14 lbs max.
E/38
14 lbs max.
I/38
12 lbs max.
I/357 12 lbs max.
Figure 174- Shows using a small straight shank drift to "back
bend" and adjust an over-strong mainspring. The hammer is
S.A. cocked with the drift installed inside the spring. This puts
a slight recurve in the mainspring. Drift shank dia. determines
recurve and the amount spring tension is reduced; increase
diameter as needed.
122
Check Cylinder Latch, Latch
Spring, and Guide
Before the sideplate can be installed in
the frame, the latch, latch spring, and
guide must be checked for proper
sideplate fit. The latch spring must
supply correct forward latch pin
tension.
1.
2.
3.
Figure 175- Shows front and rear cylinder latch fitting areas,
above. Below, the latch spring, guide, and spring tunnel are
checked in the sideplate. The latch spring must not bind or drag
inside the spring tunnel; otherwise, full spring pressure will not
be available to centre- lock the latch pin in the cylinder.
4.
5.
6.
7.
The latch spring must be full

length and full strength. To be
sure, check it against a new
replacement part.
The spring tunnel inside the
sideplate must be clean, and must
not bind the spring. See figure
175.
If the spring binds in the tunnel,
ream just enough to allow free
spring movement.
Check cylinder latch fit in
sideplate slots.
If the latch drags, stone the
bottom and/or guides for sideplate
clearance.
If an early style latch is loose,
carefully peen latch slot guides to
improve fit.
7. With loose late style latches,
replace nylon insert.
Install Sideplate
Prevent unnecessary frame- sideplate
edge marking and/ or edge damage by
installing the sideplate as follows:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Figure 176- Shows sideplate being reinstalled in the frame. The
latch, latch spring, and guide are pre-installed in the sideplate.
The latch is held back just enough to line it up with the latch
pin inside the frame. Once the latch pin is engaged, the
sideplate is started, pushed down, and then bottomed in the
frame.
5.
6.
Inspect and lightly stone any

nicks found at the edges of the
sideplate.
Hold the sideplate straight over
the frame. Don't try to start it on
an angle.
Push the latch back just enough to
align it with the latch pin inside
the frame.
Once the latch has picked up the
latch crosspin, lower the sideplate
in the frame.
Push the sideplate straight down
until it bottoms.
Install sideplate screws.
123
Test SA and DA Trigger Pull
Both single and double action trigger
pull must be checked after action
work, and when mainspring tensioning
adjustments are made; and again at
final test after the revolver has been
fully assembled.
See page 121 for factory SA and DA
pull specifications, and figures 173
and 174 for mainspring adjustments.
Final sear point engagement position,
squareness of the sear point, and
spring tension primarily determine
S.A. pull in D, E, and I model actions.
However, action drag, being
cumulative, always adds resistance to
trigger pull.
D, E, and I model D.A. pull is mostly
determined by mainspring tension but
added to by factors such as: a rough
D.A. strut, hand drag, etc.
When mainspring tension is adjusted
to reduce double action trigger pull,
there are two limiting conditions:
1.
2.
Single action trigger pull must not

be reduced below factory min.
specifications.
Hammer fall should not be
lightened to the extent that
misfires result.
Remember, the definition of a safe

trigger is: DA and SA trigger pull is
within factory specification and the
hammer does not push off the sear.
Final Push-Off Test
Figure 177- Shows testing single action trigger pull using the
NRA type weight method. With trigger pull below 6 to 7 lbs.,
this system is more consistent than others. By adding and
subtracting fractional weights, it can be used as a sear and
mainspring adjusting aid. For best results when single action
trigger pull is above 7 lbs., or when checking any double action
pull, I suggest using a precision pull-weight recording trigger
scale [see inset below].
The final push-off test is done after the

sideplate has been installed. The
hammer is S.A. cocked, with the sear
point fully engaged in the hammer's
S.A. cocking notch.
The hammer must not push off when
pushed from either side or from the
rear.
124
Figure 178- Shows a Colt Python set up for test firing in a Ransom Master Series Machine Rest.
Individual grip inserts are used to mount the specific revolver model to the main body of the rest. After
firing, the revolver and upper rest are returned to original firing position by depressing the return lever
next to the elevation screw. The basic Master Series Rest is adjustable for elevation. Optional windage
base, shown above, provides windage adjustment. -Photo courtesy Ransom International Corp.
A good machine rest is a valuable aid to the revolversmith in isolating and solving cylinder,
cylinder/barrel alignment, timing, and sight related problems. Machine rests eliminate both guess work
and hand held error factors- and make problem correction easier.
After all safety and function checks have been completed- install the revolver securely in the rest. Then
make the following firing tests:
1.
2.
3.
Using factory ammunition, paper target test for consistent points of impact at a range of 50 feet or
more. If groups are not satisfactory, impact pattern is dispersed, or keyhole bullet markings are
found, see sections on barrel work, forcing cones, and plug gauge [range rod] checking, in Section II.
Check cylinder for smooth, normal rotation with each round, and for correct shell case ejection after
firing. Check for correct firing pin/primer indentations.
Revolvers with adjustable sights- adjust windage and elevation settings to centre bullet impact on the
target. If adjusting screws are stuck or resistant, and/or the sight blade won't move or shows signs of
damage, etc., see adjustable sights, Section II. Note: The rear sight blade notch should be at
approximate centre of the sight leaf body after zeroing adjustment.
125
Summing It Up
In this first section, we have covered the majority of shop inspection and general fitting work that could
come across a revolversmith's bench. The non-gunsmith may find the information somewhat tedious, or
of limited interest. But the fact is that, as a revolversmith, you will see revolvers of every age and possible
level of condition: from those needing a simple cleaning to those requiring complete rebuilding. And,
from time to time, you will even be asked to repair revolvers that are beyond reasonable repair.
For safety and liability reasons- always operate from a "worst condition" scenario so that nothing is
overlooked. Even though you may not have included the cost of a detailed overall inspection, including
safety system parts and operation- spend the time and do it just the same. It may be that your work order
notes and cautionary advice to your customer could protect both of you from harm.
No matter what work a revolver may require, do it thoroughly and then recheck it. While working,
carefully protect the finish on your customer's gun. Finish damage is evidence of poor craftsmanship.
Common sense, a clean work bench, and careful handling will reduce finish damage to near zero.
Now and then, a beginning revolversmith may find himself in doubt as to some aspect of the job at hand.
When this happens, have the problem, or your work, checked by a senior Colt qualified gunsmith. Don't
fog the problem over and send it on its way, as if magically corrected. It is the smart man who knows
when he has a problem- but it's the wise revolversmith who gets a second opinion, when needed. The
even wiser shop supervisor watches for those who can be depended upon to do things safely and well.
In this time of impossible product liability and, for many, nearly unobtainable insurance, the
revolversmith has to be careful to the point of the ridiculous. There is no such thing as too much caution.
We all owe it to each other to preserve our industry, and careful workmanship is a good place to start.
Good training, thoughtful customer advice, and competent safety instruction will also help a lot.
126
Figure S2- Shows a destroyed Python. The forward half of the barrel was filled with jacketed lead slugs to
the point shown. The barrel ruptured where the last bullet impacted the obstruction.
While it's difficult to know the real facts, one thing is clear- the owner was a reloader, and was firing his
own creations. It appears that the first five bullets were driven into the bore by magnum primers, only,
and- by all indications, the last by a double magnum charge.
Just for the sake of discussion: let's say that a reloading book lists a load at 43,500 PSI (copper) based on
eight grains of a given powder. If, for example, 5% more of the same powder (or only .4 grain) jumps
chamber pressure past the industry maximum for the .357 magnum case- it seems that only a fool would
load that extra .4 grain. This being the case, what on earth do you call a fellow who follows five empties
with a double magnum charge?
127
Figure S3- Shows a 2" Cobra (alloy frame) destroyed by firing what, at first, appeared to be a single
(restricted use) +P+ round. And it may have been. But, this owner was also a reloader. Although he
insisted the round fired was not a reload, he was seen chambering this, and other rounds, from a box of
obviously reloaded ammunition. A wise rangemaster confiscated several of the rounds, just in case the
"accident" turned out to be a "sue everybody" event.
How would you like to be standing at the firing line next to the kind of character who does this? It's
enough to ruin your sight picture, isn't it?
128
Figure S4- Shows further examples of the laws of physics in action. These items are shown, not to
belabour the point that revolvers can be damaged, but to stress the fact that there are people who actually
do this kind of thing- and sometimes more than once. These same people have a hard time being
responsible for their actions. Since it's impossible to know who these characters are until after the fact, the
revolversmith and gunsmith must be very careful in both work done and records kept. People who destroy
firearms have been known to sue the manufacturer, the gunsmith, the rangemaster, and the horse he rode
in on, over mishaps they, alone, caused.
129
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
Half-sectioned .357 magnum shell case and stainless steel Python crane/cylinder assembly show chamber,
ejector rod, and ejector/ratchet details.
Figure J- Shows a right side view of a cutaway Python revolver used for gunsmith training. This side
shows rebound lever/cylinder bolt functions, and inertial firing pin operation.
130
131
Figure K- Shows the left side, and a three quarter view of a cutaway Python gunsmith training revolver.
The left side shows double and single action operation, barrel threads, forcing cone details, crane
operation, and cylinder/ejector rod function.
132
WHERE?
WHAT IS IT?
CHECK FOR:
REMARK:
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Barrel
Heavy leading
Heavy leading
Heavy leading
Leading
Leading
Leading
Rusty
Bulged
Slug stuck
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Loose in frame
Loose in frame
Loose in frame
Threads damaged
Not straight
Visibly dented, bent
Crown damage
Forcing cone eroded
Forcing cone eroded
Forcing cone mis-cut
Forcing cone mis-cut
Forcing cone cracked
Forcing cone leaded
Rear face crooked
Rear face crooked
Cylinder gap small
Cylinder gap small
Spits lead
Spits lead
Spits lead
Lead velocity too high?

Velocity O.K.?
Lube O.K.?
Soft alloy?
Soft alloy?
Soft alloy?
Rust inside?
Stuck slugs?
Barrel O.K.?
Crown damaged?
Bore irregular?
Bore oversize?
Forcing cone problem?
Damaged forcing cone?
Cylinder aligned?
Shoulder misfit?
Thread problem?
Frame cracked?
Frame threads O.K.?
Crane/cylinder O.K?
Frame O.K?
Bore O.K?
Light flame erosion?
Medium erosion?
Bbl. not re-qualified?
Bbl. already re-qualified?
Heavy loads?
Hot lead loads?
Gap acceptable?
Gap near maximum?
Headspace open?
Collar/headspace O.K?
Crane/cylinder aligned?
Excess cylinder gap?
Excess cylinder gap?
Check loading
Check bullet lube
Check bullet diameter
Adjust alloy
Adjust lubricant
Use Lewis Lead Remover
Replace barrel
Replace barrel
Replace if swelled
Recut crown
Plug gauge test
Slug and measure barrel
Gauge test cone mouth
Replace barrel
Thimble/plug gauge check
Re-qualify barrel
Replace barrel
Replace frame
Replace barrel
Replace barrel
Replace barrel
Recut crown and lap
Requal. barrel, re-cut cone
Replace barrel
Requal. barrel, re-cut cone
Replace barrel
Replace barrel
Use Lewis Lead Remover
True barrel face
Re-qualify barrel, re-face, etc.
Stretch collar/adj. headspace
Adjust barrel face
See crane/cyl. alignment
Check cylinder endplay
Re-qualify barrel
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Loose (early style)

Loose
Loose
Loose
Loose
Loose
Loose
Loose
Rusty
Won't open
Hard opening
Hard open/close
Hard open/close
Rotation stiff
Rotation stiff
Rotation stiff
Rotation stiff
Rotates hard
Rotates hard
Won't rotate
Won't rotate
Won't rotate
Won't rotate
Won't rotate
Won't rotate
Binds
Binds
Binds
Crane moves front-back?

Cylinder endplay?
Cylinder endplay?
Cylinder endplay?
Sideplay on crane?
Sideplay on crane?
Crane stem loose?
Crane stem loose?
Pitted?
Latch resistant?
Ejector rod bent/drags?
Hand let out too far?
Ratchet damaged?
Hand binds shell heads?
Recoil plate high?
Plate seated O.K?
Dried oil residue?
Ejector rod bent?
Fired shell head drag?
No instant bolt pick-up?
Instant pick-up O.K?
Instant pick-up O.K?
Hand skips by?
Hand backs up?
Hand skips/deflects?
Hand binds shell heads?
Top hand short?
Bottom hand long?
Crane/detent worn
Check collar/ratchet
Adjust collar, headspace
Replace cylinder/ratchet
Cylinder O.K.?- replace crane
Crane O.K.?- replace cylinder
Frame O.K.?- replace crane
Crane O.K.?- replace frame
Replace cylinder
Check latch, oil stuck/rusted
Check, straighten rod
Replace hand
Replace ratchet
Adjust hand for clearance
Is recoil plate seated?
Level recoil plate, high spots/burrs
Detail clean
Straighten/replace rod
Check minimum headspace
Fit rebound and check bolt tang
Check bolt head height
Check top hand long
Adjust hand let out
Increase let out.
Adjust tensioning cam angle
Adjust hand
Stretch or replace hand
Fit bottom hand
133
WHERE?
WHAT IS IT?
CHECK FOR
REMARK
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
Cylinder
DA mid-rotation hard
End of rotation hard
End of rotation hard
Rotates past lock
Rot. short at hammer drop
Rot .short at hammer drop
Rot. short at hammer drop
Shaves lead
Shaves lead
Shaves lead
Shaves lead
Shaves lead
Shaves lead
Hits closing (old style)
Hits on closing
Hits on closing
Top hand long?

Bottom hand long?
Sear extension long?
Bolt timing late?
D.A. strut tip short?
Strut let out short?
Bottom hand short?
Crane bent?
Clearance excessive?
Yoke & clearance O.K?
Bolt worn/thin?
Bolt slots loose?
Cone mouth undersize?
Crane bearing wear?
Tight endplay?
Long top handpoint?
Adjust top hand

Fit bottom hand
Refit sear/hand
Check bolt/rebound
Replace strut
Adjust let-out
Stretch/replace hand
Align crane
Re-qualify barrel
Check forcing cone
Replace bolt
Replace cylinder
Recut forcing cone
Install bearing washer
Fit ratchet
Dress top hand point
Ejector
Ejector
Ejector
Ejector
Ejector
Ejector
Ejector
Ejector
Ejector
Ejector
Ejector
Ejector
Ejector
Rod sticks
Rod sticks
Hard eject
Hard eject
Hard eject
Hard eject
Star sticks
Star sticks
Rough
Star loose on pins
Star loose on pins
Won't return
Won't return
Rod bent?
Dried oil, dirt in crane?
Rod bent?
Eject, star drags cyl.?
Guide pins rough?
Eject. star overlap?
Guide pins nicked?
Burrs, nicks?
Rough stem spline?
Overchamfered pins?
Oversized pin holes?
Spring wrong/missing?
Spring over flange?
Check/straighten rod
Clean crane, rod stem, etc.
Check/straighten rod
Refit star fingers
Dress/chamfer pin heads
Burnish fingers/chambers
Chamfer pins
Dress star fingers
Dress or replace rod
Replace cylinder
Replace star/cylinder
Replace spring
Crimp end of spring
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Cyl. Bolt
Sticks
Sticks
Sticks
Delayed pick-up
Slot drags
Slot drags
Slot drags
Snaps back early
Snaps back early
Snaps back early
Drops late
Drops late
Drops late
Hard over cam
Hard over cam
Won't return
Won't return
Won't return
Won't return
Function erratic
Falls back
Loose in cylinder
Loose in cylinder
Won't hold lock
Won't hold lock
Allows back-roll
In frame window?
In cylinder slot?
In cylinder slots?
Rebound low?
Bolt head too high?
Top hand tall?
"Unequal" ratchet lug?
Bolt timing problem?
Misfit rebound?
Altered bolt actuator?
Too much inward bend?
Cam bypass bevel long?
E/I cam not rounded?
E/I cam slightly long?
D cam angle incorrect?
Cam too high?
Cam height O.K?
Bolt tip burrs?
Tang bend incorrect?
Loose on pivot screw?
Spring problem?
Head worn?
Bolt head O.K?
Bolt head low?
Head height O.K?
Head overchamfered?
Fit/deburr window
Check slot for burrs
Check stop head width
Adjust rebound
Adjust bolt head
Adjust top hand
Adjust hand/lugs
Adjust bolt tang
Replace rebound
Replace bolt
Adjust bolt tang
Adjust bevel
Slightly round front of cam
Lightly stone front bypass bevel
Change angle (don't alter cam)
Adjust rebound
Polish front triangle
Carefully deburr
Adjust bolt tang
Adjust to snug pivot fit
Replace spring
Replace bolt
Replace cylinder
Adjust head higher
Re-contour/profile head
Refit bolt head
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
No return/sticky
No return/sticky
No return/sticky
No return/sticky
No return/sticky
No return/sticky
Frame/sideplate bind?
Hand/frame bind?
Hand/sideplate drag?
Rebound drags hand?
Hand's slot rough?
Reb. drags sideplate?
Polish left bearing surface

Refit hand
Refit hand
Dress lever end and side
Polish hand's rebound slot
Polish side of rebound
134
WHERE
WHAT IS IT?
CHECK FOR:
REMARK:
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
Trigger
No return/sticky
No return/sticky
No return/sticky
No return/sticky
Stiff
Too light
Heavy
Light
Creeps
Creeps
Creeps
Hesitates
S.A. overhaul stiff
S.A. overhaul stiff
S.A. overhaul rough
S.A. overhaul rough
S.A. overhaul rough
D.A. rough
D.A. rough
D.A. heavy
Hits D.A. strut
Hits D.A. strut
E/I link pin drags
E/I link pin drags
Sear erratic
Sear erratic
Sear erratic
Rebound drags hammer?

Rebound drags hammer?
Reb. rides hammer heel?
Hand backs up rebound?
Low sear point?
High sear point?
Sear point O.K?
Sear point O.K?
Stiff mainspring?
Mis-cut sear?
Sear O.K?
Action drag?
Long sear point?
Long bottom hand?
Rough under sear ext.?
Rough top hammer toe?
Frame stops hammer?
Strut tip rough?
Trigger pick-up rough?
Stiff mainspring?
Sear point long?
Sear point O.K?
Link pin high?
Pin seated O.K?
Loose on pin?
Pin undersize?
Frame pin O.K?
Polish inside lever extension

Refit rebound's hammer seat
Complete rebound fitting
Adjust hand let out
Adjust sear point position
Adjust sear point position
Adjust mainspring
Adjust mainspring
Adjust tension
Adjust sear/replace trigger
Check hammer notch/repl. hammer
Eliminate drag
Adjust sear
Refit bottom hand
Polish surface
Polish top surface
Clearance frame
Point and polish strut
Polish top of sear ext.
Adjust tension
Adjust sear point
Replace D.A. strut
Seat link pin
Dress link pin head
Check against new pin
Replace trigger pin
Replace trigger
E/I Safety
E/I Safety
E/I Safety
Safety
Safety
Safety
Safety
Safety
Safety
Safety
Link pins drag

Upper link pin catches
Upper link pin catches
Lever drags hammer
Drags in frame recess
Drags latch pin
Catches hammer
Catches hammer
Misses hammer
Missing
Pin heads high?

Pin head high?
Pin head flush?
Lever high at boss?
Burrs, nicks?
Burrs or pin high?
Rebound overfit?
Hammer altered?
Wrong upper safety?
All or part not there?
Dress to flush with lever

Dress to flush with lever
Undercut/chamfer hammer skirt
Resurface with boss hub cutter
Deburr, do not oversize recess
Deburr frame, dress latch pin
Replace rebound lever
Replace hammer
Replace safety assembly
Replace safety assembly
Hand
Hand
Hand
Hand
Hand
Hand
Hand
Hand
Hand
Hand
Hand
Top Hand
Top Hand
Top Hand
Top Hand
Top Hand
Top Hand
Bot. Hand
Bot. Hand
Bot. Hand
Forward at rest
Forward at rest
Backs up/deflects
Skips ratchet
Lazy/skips
Sticks
Sticks
Sticks
Sticks
Sticks
Sticks
Short
Short
Long
Long
Long
Catches ratchet
Short
Long
Long
Over let-out?
Excess let-out?
Frame post thick?
Otherwise O.K?
Forward tension weak?
Bend incorrect?
Too thick?
Frame burrs?
Sideplate slot burrs?
Pivot pin rough?
Rebound slot rough?
Binds at 1/2 DA rotation?
Binds ratchet?
Cylinder jams
Bolt slot drags
One chamber drags?
Extends past frame?
Cylinder doesn't lock?
Action won't S.A. cock?
Sear drags at S.A. cock?
Dress top hand tip

Replace hand
Increase let out
Increase let out
Adjust hand cam
Adjust bend
File, polish outside
Lightly dress frame
Dress sideplate slot
Carefully dress pin
Stone/polish slot
Adjust top hand
Fit top hand
Fit top hand
Fit long ratchet lug
Stone tip
Adjust bottom hand
Adjust bottom hand
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Jammed, won't cock

Jammed, won't cock
Jammed
Catches upper safety
Rebound loose on pin?

Bolt doesn't return?
Skirt catches safety?
Low safety clearance?
Check/replace reb. pivot pin

Adjust rebound/bolt tang
Clearance skirt/safety
Replace rebound
135
WHERE
WHAT IS IT?
CHECK FOR:
REMARK:
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Hammer
Misses upper safety

Hits frame
Drags
Drags
Drags
Strut sticks
Strut sticks
D.A. rough
D.A. drags
Early D.A. drop
DA strut hits sear
Strut won't return
D/E firing pin drags
Primer strikes high
Primer strikes low
Misfires
Misfires
Misfires
Misfires
Primers ruptured
Pushes off
Pushes off
Pushes off
Stirrup pin catches
Strut pin drags frame
Won't rebound
Won't rebound
Wrong hammer/safety?
Prevents SA overhaul?
Frame high spots?
Skirt uneven?
Too wide?
Oil stuck?
Pin overstaked?
Strut tip rough/square?
Sear extension rough?
Strut let out short?
Let out too far?
Let out O.K?
Pin tip bent?
D/E firing pin high?
D/E firing pin low?
Pin protrusion short?
Pin protrusion O.K?
Pin protrusion O.K?
Headspace open?
Pin protrusion long?
Cocking notch altered?
Cocking notch damage?
Mis-cut sear?
Stirrup pin loose?
Strut pin loose?
Hammer heel altered?
Hammer heel O.K?
Install correct parts

Clearance frame
Deburr/level high spots
Polish and level skirt
Polish sides
Solvent clean
Refit/replace hammer
Point and polish strut tip
Polish top of sear extension
Correct strut let out
Replace strut
Check rebound hammer seat
Straighten or replace pin
Clearance bottom back of pin
Clearance top back of pin
Replace firing pin
Check for bent firing pin
Check/adjust weak mainspring
Check/adjust headspace
Adjust/replace firing pin
Replace hammer
Replace hammer
Adjust sear/replace trigger
Replace/stake pin
Replace/stake pin
Replace hammer assembly
Replace rebound
I firing pin
I firing pin
I firing pin
I firing pin
I firing pin
Misfires
Erratic
Misfires, erratic
Punctures primers
Punctures primers
Firing pin broken?

Wrong pin installed?
Wrong spring installed?
Wrong pin installed?
Protrusion long?
Replace firing pin

Replace firing pin
Replace spring
Replace firing pin
Dress/replace firing pin
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Rebound lev.
Binds
Binds
Won't pick up bolt
Won't pick up bolt
Won't pick up bolt
Won't pick up bolt
Won't pick up bolt
No instant pick up
No instant pick up
No instant pick up
Bolt won't drop
Bolt won't drop
E/I bolt drags
D bolt drags
Bolt slips off
Bolt drops off
Bolt drops off
Bolt drops off
Pivot pin loose?

Pivot pin part way out?
Cam too high?
Burrs on bolt tang?
Front triangle rough?
Front triangle thick?
Bolt tang mis-adjusted?
Cam too low?
Bolt tang mis-bent?
Bolt tang altered?
Front of cam long?
Front of E/I cam sharp?
Hard over cam?
Hard over cam?
Bolt tang mis-bent?
Front of cam not 90* ?
Front triangle over cut?
Front of cam short?
Replace pivot pin

Replace with longer pin
Adjust rebound lower
Carefully remove burrs
Polish triangle
Reduce slightly and polish
Adjust bolt tang
Adjust rebound higher
Adjust bolt tang
Replace bolt
Adjust cam
Slightly round corner
Clearance front of cam
Change front cam angle
Adjust bolt tang
Mainspring
Mainspring
Mainspring
Mainspring
Mainspring
Mainspring
Mainspring
Mainspring
Drags top of rebound

Stirrup saddle drags
Too strong
Weak
Weak
Knee
Altered
Over-bent
Bottom end sharp?

Saddle corners wide?
Over tensioned?
Spring bend O.K?
Won't re-tension?
Cracked, checked?
Ground, thin?
Too much recurve?
Radius bottom mainspring corner

Dress to clear frame/sideplate
Adjust recurve
Re-bend/re-tension spring
Replace spring
Replace mainspring
Replace mainspring
Replace mainspring
Bolt Spring
Bolt Spring
Limits bolt travel

Soft, weak
Too long?
Wrong spring, short?
Adjust spring
Replace bolt spring
136
WHERE
WHAT IS IT?
CHECK FOR:
REMARK:
Crane
Crane
Crane
Crane
Crane
Crane
Crane
Crane
Crane
Crane
Crane
Crane
Crane
Stem loose
Stem loose
Stem binds
Stem binds
Early stem endplay
Early stem endplay
Late detent stiff
Hard closing
Hard closing
D arm/stem loose
D arm/stem loose
Bushing won't start
Threads damaged
Frame O.K?
Crane O.K?
Dirt/oil stuck?
Burrs, machine ridges?
Detent loose?
Detent O.K?
Spring too long?
Bent or sprung?
Fails gauge test?
Pin missing?
Pin in place?
Crane threads damaged?
Won't re-tap?
Replace crane
Replace frame
Clean stem and frame tunnel
Dress stem/tunnel I.D.
Replace/refit detent
Peen or install bearing washer
Check/shorten spring
Thimble gauge check
Align crane
Replace pin or crane
Replace crane
Re-tap if possible
Replace crane
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Frame
Pins worn
Pin loose in frame
Recoil plate loose
Recoil plate loose
Recoil plate loose
Ignition erratic
Ignition erratic
Barrel loose
Barrel loose
Barrel loose
Barrel loose
Threads tight
Finish worn
Rust (light)
Rusty (outside)
Tweaked, twisted
Cracked
Altered
Stocks loose
Trigger/hammer loose?
New pin loose also?
New plate fit tight?
Is new plate loose?
New plate is loose?
D/E pin port oversize?
I pin port altered?
Shoulder/threads O.K?
Barrel thread problem?
Frame threads O.K?
Frame thds. damaged?
Is screw correct?
Otherwise O.K?
Interior O.K?
More than light pitting?
Cylinder misaligned?
No further check.
No further checks.
Grip pin missing?
Replace frame pin

Factory oversize S.K. pin
Install new recoil plate
Factory oversize S.K. plate
Factory crimp recoil plate
Replace recoil plate
Replace frame
Re-qualify barrel
Replace barrel
Replace barrel
Replace frame
Clean/chase threads
Polish/re-blue
Polish/re-blue
Replace frame
Replace frame
Replace frame
Replace frame
Replace pin
Sideplate
Sideplate
Sideplate
Sideplate
Sideplate
Slight tweak
Tweaked, bent
Resistant fit
Hand drags
Drags hammer
Frame O.K?
Frame O.K?
Edge nicks?
Hand slot burrs?
High spots, raised nos.?
Flatten/straighten sideplate
Factory replace plate
Dress edges
Dress slot, edges
Level and dress inside surface
Rear Sight
Rear Sight
Rear Sight
Rear Sight
Rear Sight
Rear Sight
Blade damage
Won't elevate
Won't lower
Won't lower
Crooked
No windage adj.
Leaf body O.K?

Elev. screw problem?
Elev. screw stripped?
Frame thds. damaged?
Leaf body problem?
Screw stripped?
Replace blade screw

Replace screw
Replace screw
Re-tap/inst. oversize screw
Replace sight assembly
Re-tap or replace sight leaf
The following checks are based on machine rest test firing to rule out hand held and misc. factors:
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Inaccurate
Erratic ignition?
Headspace O.K?
Mainspring O.K?
Protrusion O.K?
Ammo problem?
Ammo problem?
Ammo problem?
Ammunition O.K?
Sight on angle?
Shoots low?
Shoots high?
Sights O.K?
Forcing cone O.K?
Barrel dia. test O.K?
Check open headspace

Check mainspring tension
Check firing pin protrusion
Check for bent firing pin
Replace ammo
Inspect reloads
Review reloading procedure
Inspect sights
Straighten/replace sight
Adjust high front sight
Replace/stretch low front sight
Check forcing cone
Slug barrel diameter
Plug gauge test alignment
137
WHERE
WHAT IS IT?
CHECK FOR:
REMARK:
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
Inaccurate
Misfires
Misfires
Misfires
Misfires
Misfires
Misfires
Misfires
Misfires
Alignment O.K?
Firing pin short?
D/E firing pin bent?
Hammer falls early?
Hammer falls early?
Bolt index late?
Reb. drags hammer?
Reb. stops hammer?
Mainspring weak?
Carbon ring in chamber leads?

Replace firing pin
Straighten/replace firing pin
Adjust D.A. strut let out
Replace short D.A. strut
Adjust bolt timing
Adjust rebound
Adjust rebound
Adjust/replace mainspring
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
The Revolver
Shaves lead
Shaves lead
Shaves lead
Shaves lead
Shaves lead
Shaves lead
Shaves lead
Spits lead, etc.
Barrel/cyl. misaligned?
Barrel/cyl. misaligned?
Bolt head O.K?
Undersize forcing cone?
Excess barrel gap?
Excess barrel gap?
Fires out of time?
Damaged forcing cone?
Align crane
Replace worn bolt
Replace worn cylinder
Recut cone
Correct endplay
Re-qualify barrel
Refit hand/bolt/strut
Replace barrel
Bullets
Bullets
Bullets
Bullets
Bullets
Bullets
Keyhole
Keyhole
Keyhole
Keyhole
Keyhole (2"bbl.)
Keyhole (2"bbl.)
Oversize forcing cone?

Muzzle crown problem?
Over diameter bore?
Fires out of time?
Incorrect bullet style?
Bullets O.K?
Requal. barrel/recut cone

Recut crown
Replace barrel
Refit hand/bolt/strut
Check different bullet
Try lower velocity
Action Lubrication Data:
Factory specified lubricant- Chemlube 303 by Ultrachem, Inc.

Factory specifications require action lubrication at the following points:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Hand and rebound contact points

Hammer/hammer pin
Trigger/trigger pin
Frame safety slots and recesses
Sear and top/bottom sear extension surfaces
Rebound cam and bolt actuator tip
Hand surfaces and frame post
Frame/rebound pivot pin
Hammer heel/rebound hammer seat
Trigger/hammer bearing surfaces
SECTION
II
The Colt DA Revolvers, Section II
139
Section II
Editors Note:
Jerry Kuhnhausen has written several individual shop manuals on Colt's double action revolvers. These
books include most model variations from 1903 to date. This manual (Volume I) combines his revolver
smithing data on Colt D, E and I frame double action revolvers.
The first section covers detailed inspection, parts checks, refitting, and basic repair. The Troubleshooting
Guide, included at the end of the first section, is retained from the original D, E, and I model shop
manuals. It is an easy reference, regardless of ability level.
In editing this second section, we have taken an assortment of specific revolver smithing jobs from the
author's D, E, and I frame manuals. We have included the majority of the most frequently asked for shop
gunsmithing work, and have given extra details on some of the more everyday bench work. In this section
there are also examples of some of the most complex jobs revolversmiths are asked for. As in Section I,
basic tools and shop tools needed are shown with the work being done.
The work shown in this manual follows current factory service procedures except where special "factory
only" type tooling and fixtures are used. In these cases, due to field non-availability of such tooling,
parallel procedures adapted for easy use by field armourers and revolversmiths are suggested.
With Sections I and II of The Colt Double Action Revolver- A Shop Manual. Volume I, you have at hand
more detailed information about the workings of Colt D, E, and I frame double action revolvers than has
ever before been published in any single book.
140
About Front Sight BladesFront sight blades used with Colt
Accro and Elliason adjustable rear
sights are easily identified by eye. The
taller, .190" Patridge front blade is
used only with the Elliason rear sight.
In Colt revolvers, this combination is
used only with the Python model.
Python front blades have two retaining
pin holes. The 25" Python's extra
short sight radius requires a narrow
1/10" front sight blade for a correct
sight picture. All other barrel lengths
use the standard 1/8" blade.
The 6" Diamondback front sight
blade is actually a standard 1/8"
Python blade, but with only one pin
hole.
Figure 179- Shows a sight ramp slot typical of Python and 6"
Diamondback models. The higher Patridge sight [.190" above
the ramp], at right, is used with the Elliason rear sight. The
#51345 replacement sight pin, illust. at top, is used in both
Python and 6" Diamondback models. The older Officer's
Model Match uses #50060 pins.
The Officer's Model Match and earlier

target versions use special front blades
designed only for those models.
Sight Blade
Diamond/6"
Python/25"
Python/25"
Python/3-8"
Python/Red
Patridge
O.M. Match/38
O.M. Match/22
Part Numbers
#56624
#53647
#53647N
#51868
#55405B
#53960B
#51362
#51364
Check Sight Blade Fit

If front blade has sideplay:
1.
2.
Replace the blade.

If still loose, squeeze sight ramp,
[with blade, no pins] between
bronze vice jaws.
If sight pins are loose:

1.
2.
Figure 180- Shows Python front sight blades, at top, identified
by their double mounting pin holes. The 2 1/2" Python uses a
1/10" front sight blade, while all others use the standard 1/8"
blade. The 6" Diamondback front blades [also 1/8"], below, are
identical except for their single pin hole. All std. blades are
.160" high.
3.
4.
Replace sight pins.

Or make an oversize pin. Dimple
the pin full length.
Use a punch slightly smaller than
pin diameter when removing sight
pins.
When installing sight pins, use a
1/8" diameter punch to prevent
slip-off damage.
141
Colt Accro Adjustable Sights

The late Colt Accro sight uses a
slightly taller Micro- type rear blade.
Windage clicks are also machined into
the face of the adjusting screw. But,
Micro similarity ends there. The leaf
body of the Accro sight was designed
to provide more than enough
elevation. This makes it possible for
the sight to be used throughout the
Colt line without the need to change
standard front or rear blades. See
figures 183 through 186 for
disassembly and assembly.
Accro Sight Assy. NumbersStandard
White Line
#51693
#54402B
Early Colt Accro SightsThis discontinued sight is similar to

the late style Accro. See figs. 181 and
182. Three parts for this sight are still
listed: the #51193 windage spring, the
#51194 elevation spring, and #51195
detent ball. For other early Accro
parts, contact suppliers of
discontinued parts such as GPC, West
Hurley, N.Y.
Figure 181- Shows an exploded view of Colt's standard Accro

adjustable rear sight, used on Python, Diamondback, J, V, AA
and Ace .22 models. Turning the windage screw clockwise
moves the sight to the left. Turning elevation screw clockwise
lowers the sight. Bullet point of impact is moved in the same
direction.
About Colt Elliason SightsThe large back of the Colt Elliason

match sight is the adjustable rear
blade. With this sight design, the
windage screw threads directly into
the sight blade. The screw is then held
captive in the leaf body by the staked
windage screw nut on the left side. If
windage adjustment is oil stuck, the
windage screw can be freed by
soaking the sight in penetrant, or in
acetone. Only two parts are factory
listed for this sight: the #53739
elevation screw, and #51194 elevation
spring. Assembly number is #94093.
Figure 182- Shows an exploded view of the early style Colt
Accro adjustable rear sight, used on O.M. Match and early I
frame models. Early Accro sights are identified by their
rounded front leaf shape. This sight used a #51191 elevation
screw, #51195 detent ball, #51192 windage screw, and #51189
blade.
142
Remove Accro Sight Blade
Well machined Accro sight leaf bodies
plus the stronger windage springs
used, make Accro blade adjustment
more consistent than many others of
similar type. But, sometimes, this
can make the rear sight blade a little
difficult to remove. See figure 183.
To remove the sight blade:
1.
2.
3.
Figure 183- Shows a Colt Accro sight blade being removed

after the windage screw has been taken out. The easiest way to
remove most Accro sight blades is to first pull the blade back
against the spring with a thumbnail. Then, slip a 3/64" punch
underneath to further compress the spring- and rock the blade
up and out.
4.
Unthread and remove the windage

screw.
Draw the sight blade to the left,
and hold it hard against the
windage spring.
Then, rock the sight blade up and
out of the leaf body. Be prepared
to catch the spring and blade if
necessary.
If the blade will not lift and clear
the leaf body, insert a 3/64" punch
under the leaf, compress the
spring, and tip the blade up and
out of the slot in the leaf body.
Install Accro Sight Blade

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Figure 184- Shows a white outline Accro sight blade and
windage spring, above. The rounded bottom left point of the
blade picks up the spring. The blade is being installed in the
leaf, below. The sharp right point faces the windage screw. The
blade is pushed in to compress the spring, and then down into
the leaf slot.
Clean and de-grease the sight leaf

slot.
Check the windage spring against
a new replacement. If the spring
is weak, it may not hold a positive
blade position. When short or
weak, the spring must be
replaced.
Check windage adjustment screw.
To hold detent, slots at the end of
the screw must be sharp. If slots
are blurred or questionable,
replace the windage screw.
Install the windage spring.
Insert the rounded bottom point of
the sight blade and engage the
windage spring. Compress the
spring and snap the sight blade
down into place. See figure 184.
Install windage screw.
143
Remove Accro Rear Sight Elevation

Screw
Thread damage is the usual reason
elevation screws are replaced.
However, if the sight is hit when
elevated, the bottom of the pin slot
skirt can break off where it meets the
elevation pin.
Remove the elevation screw as
follows:
1.
2.
3.
Push out the elevation pin with a

1/16" punch.
Hold the sight assembly over a
small parts box.
Place thumb over the top of the
screw and slowly push it out from
the back. Do not lose spring and
detent balls. See figure 185.
Install Accro Elevation Screw

1. Remove dried oil and dirt from the
leaf detent recess.
2. Check detent spring tension.
Replace if weak.
3. Coat the detent spring with
assembly grease and install in the
elevation screw.
4. Place leaf upside down on the
bench; preposition the elevation pin
and screw.
5. Grease tip of 1/16" punch and pick
up one ball.
6. Insert the ball at one end of the
detent spring and start the screw into
the hex recess.
7. With the 1st ball in place, tip the
elevation screw just enough to take the
2nd ball.
8. Depress the second ball, push in the
elevation screw until it lines up with
the pin. Then push in the elevation
pin. See figure 186.
Figure 185- Shows removal of an Accro rear sight elevation

screw pin. This pin retains the elevation screw, detent spring,
and two detent balls in the leaf body. Take extra care to prevent
loss of detent parts as the elevation screw is removed from the
leaf. I suggest removing the assembly over a parts box.
Install Sight In Frame

Pre-install elevation springs with
assembly grease. Then, pin the sight
leaf body in the frame. Hold the leaf
down while threading the elevation
screw into the frame.
Figure 186- Shows installing an Accro rear sight elevation

screw and detent assembly in an upside down sight leaf body.
During handling, mechanical assembly grease helps hold detent
spring and balls in place. For easy assembly, line up the detent
spring and balls across the hex corners of the elevation screw
recess.
144
Colt Improved Sights

As you look over your revolver to sight it the front sight should just fill the rear notch, the top of the front
sight should be even with the top of the bar of the rear sight with an even distribution of light on each side
and both sights in line with the spot on the target just below the point you wish to hit. Colt revolvers are
sighted at 15 yards to place the shots 3/4 inch above the point of aim. At 10 to 12 feet hold ON the object
you want to hit. There is a false belief that the shooter must guess how much to allow for
the flip of his pistol. It is true there is a recoil, but the shooter doesn't have to do any
guessing. When Colt arms are tested the sights are adjusted and allowance is made for the
upward flip due to the recoil. If the Arm is properly grasped and the sighting is correct the
shot will be accurately placed.
The standard front sights furnished with Colt Revolvers and Automatic Pistols designed for
regular Police, Military, home and other protective service as well as for the hunter, tourist
and general outdoor use are of the "fixed" variety, that is, they are not adjustable. The front
sight is so constructed that the Arm may be easily drawn from the pocket or holster. It is
strong and carefully made, firmly welded into a slot cut in the front of the barrel, or slide,
and tapered at the top to a width that has proven best for all around shooting.
Rear sights in Colt Revolvers are formed by a groove along the top of the frame cut to proper width to
correctly catch the front sight. Rear sights of all Colt Automatic Pistols are movable except the Cal. .25
Pocket Model which is machined as an integral part of the slide. The "Woodsman" model, .22 calibre rear
sight is adjustable for windage.
The standard sight equipment of Colt Target Arms New Service Target, Officer's Model Target and
Police Positive Tar- get Revolvers, "Camp Perry" Model Cal. .22
single shot Target Pistol and "Woodsman" Model .22 calibre
Automatic Pistol is the square or "Patridge" front and square cut
rear as shown in the accompanying illustration. Regulation Bead
sights will be supplied on any of these models when so specified,
at no extra cost. Ivory Bead or Gold Bead front sights may be had
at a nominal additional cost. Unless otherwise specified, the
square or "Patridge" sights will be fitted to all Target Arms
ordered.
Figure L- Early Colt data discusses sight geometry. Later adjustable Accro and Elliason rear sights
provide even more flexibility. -Courtesy Colt Firearms
145
Figure 187- Shows a Millett Series 100 Adjustable Rear Sight with white outlined blade, installed on a
Colt Diamondback. With 6" barrels, Series 100 sight adjustment is 5/16" per click at 50 yards, and 5/8"
per click at 100 yards. This sight can be used on all Python and Diamondback models and with either
original factory front sight blades or with Millett's 1/8" white or orange bar front ramp sights. Standard
rear blade height is .312", with .360" and .410" rear blades also available. Exploded parts illustrationcourtesy Millett Sights
146
Replace Trigger or Hammer Frame
Pins
If there is any doubt about the cause of
a loose trigger or hammer, always
check the questionable trigger and/or
hammer pin hole against a new
replacement frame pin before pressing
the existing pin out of the frame.
When looseness follows the pin, or
when pins are visibly worn, rusty, or
undersized, they must be replaced.
Remove Frame Pin
1.
2.
Figure 188- Shows removing a frame pin with an arbour press.

The press ram has been drilled to receive the shank of the
frame pin chuck. The correct diameter pin removal insert is
installed in the chuck. The inserts are hollow ground to prevent
slip-off, and slightly under pin diameter to prevent frame pin
hole damage.
3.
4.
5.
Install the correct pin removal

insert in the frame pin chuck. See
figure 188.
Place frame on aluminium
levelling plate, and position on
arbour press bed.
Press out frame pin.
If pin is resistant, support frame
wall with a brass or aluminium
reinforcing block.
Always use the frame support
block when pressing pins out of
alloy frames.
Install Frame Pin

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Install the frame pin chuck in the

arbour press ram.
Then, install the correct frame pin
in the chuck.
Position the frame on an
aluminium levelling plate. See
figure 189.
Coat frame pin hole and pin with
antiseize compound.
Align the frame, start the pin, and
press into place.
About Loose Frame Pins
Figure 189- Shows a new replacement hammer pin being

pressed in with a bench arbour press. The hammer pin holder,
shown below, fits into the press ram and holds the hammer pin
at 90 degrees to the frame. To prevent frame and pin hole
damage, the frame is held across the press bed on an
aluminium levelling block.
When frame pin holes are loose,

confirm by pressing in a new
replacement pin. If pin shank fit is still
loose, ship the frame directly to
factory service for installation of an
oversize, or SK, trigger or hammer
pin. In this way, the correct frame pin
centres will be preserved.
147
Frame WorkRe-facing the Ratchet Seat

Due to the cost involved, and because
cylinder endplay is increased with the
removal of surface material, the
ratchet seat is re-faced, in the field,
only as a part of ratchet or
cylinder/ratchet replacement and
barrel work. See figures 190 & 191.
Also, see barrel- cylinder replacement
sections and barrel set-back work.
With steel frames [only] the following
judgement factors apply in ratchet refacing:
1.
2.
3.
Can the seat surface be cleaned at

.003", or less?
Cost of parts, materials, and etc.plus cost of labour.
Is the revolver worth it? Warning:
Do not attempt seat refacing in
alloy frames- the risk of frame
damage during barrel removal is
too great.
More About Ratchet Peening
Figure 190- Shows an I frame with a slightly rough ratchet

seat. Seats can be re-faced [with ratchet, cylinder/ratchet
replacement work only] providing that the surface will clean at
.002 - .003" below original factory seat depth. Don't re-face
seats in ratchet-peened frames, or in alloy frames. Indicate
surface, before cutting.
While it's true that very lightly peened

steel frame ratchet seats may clean up
at less than .003", keep in mind that
when ratchet peening is found, other
frame damage is usually present that
would, in itself, reject the frame.
Ratchet peening can range from light,
sometimes shiny, seat marking- all the
way to indented, bent, and cracked
frames. Severity of the problem
depends mostly on degree of misuse,
whether the frame is steel or alloy, and
the size of the frame.
Ratchet peening very quickly work
hardens aluminium alloy frames,
causing brittleness and increasing the
potential for cracks, [if peening hasn't
already cracked the frame].
Figure 191- Shows a facing cutter and frame set up for spotfacing and cleaning the ratchet seat surface. The cutter isn't
piloted so the frame can be fed to the cutter. Since cylinder
endplay is increased by this work, it is done only as a part of
cylinder/ratchet assembly replacement. Barrels are removed for
this step.
148
Frame Work, Cont.Replace Recoil Plate
D and E model recoil plates that have
been altered, or that have firing pin
ports enlarged from misalignment of
the firing pin, must be replaced.
Enlarged firing pin ports can allow
primer cup material to backflow into
the port. This can make actions seem
rough, or, in extreme cases, jam
cylinder rotation. This effect is made
worse when the recoil plate is also
flared or "puckered" at the pin port.
Although pin port enlargement is
usually found only in centerfire recoil
plates, it is sometimes found in
rimfires. Plates in this condition must
be replaced.
Figure 191A- Shows an E frame recoil plate being pressed out

on an arbour press. A relieved aluminium block aligns and
holds the frame and recoil plate at 90 degrees to the contoured
punch insert installed in the press chuck. Replacement recoil
plates are then pressed into the frame. The recoil plate is then
re-crimped.
After replacement, a recoil plate that is

not at the same level as the surface of
the frame will affect headspace. If the
plate is too high, it must be dressed to
agree with frame level. See figures
191A and 191B.
Model/Cal.
D/.22
D/.38
E/.22
E/.38
Part number
#56137
#56523
#50477
#50445
About Loose Recoil PlatesIf the replacement recoil plate seems

loose before crimping, recheck parts
stock for another plate that may be
.001" or larger in diameter. If the
larger diameter plate is also loose,
check with factory parts for
availability of an "SK", or oversized
plate.
Bent Firing Pins
Figure 191B- Illustration shows an E frame after recoil plate

replacement and re-crimping. The cross hatched area, see
arrow above, must be stoned to remove flaring and/or burrs.
The recoil plate must be level with the frame. High spots can
make the action feel rough, interfere with rotation, and close
headspace.
Be sure that frozen, or bent, firing pins

are corrected after plate replacement.
149
Figure 192- Shows the older field service crane aligning system, developed for early style, screw-on
ratchet type cylinders. The direction the crane had been sprung was determined by closing the cylinder
and then pushing it either right, left, up, or down, until the latch pin dropped into place. Then, the cylinder
was impacted in the same direction with a plastic or rawhide mallet [see above] until the latch pin entered
the ratchet recess. This method is still workable, but only to the extent that the cylinder, ejector star, and
latch pin recess are on exact crane centreline. If the ejector star, guide pins, or ratchet do not agree, or are
off centre, for any reason, the crane can't be correctly aligned the old way. Instead, I suggest using the
current factory thimble gauge method with both early and late style revolvers. Results are 100% positive.
Ejector/ratchet problems are easily identified. See figures 193 through 196.
150
Align or Straighten Crane
Figure 193- Shows the crane open with thimble gauge still
installed after first alignment check. In this case, the crane
barrel must be moved in the direction shown by the arrow,
above. This is done by tapping or striking the crane, where
shown, with a plastic mallet or round lead bar. Check crane
alignment between adjusting taps.
When sprung, Colt revolver cranes

usually require only slight corrective
alignment. A few cranes, and
especially those in revolvers that have
been dropped or abused, may be
extremely bent to the left or right. But,
the majority are easily realigned as
shown in figures 193 through 196.
Unless beyond repair, it is possible to
straighten even a crane that has been
bent hard to one side by first clamping
the closed crane and frame between
brass vice jaws, and then realigning
the crane barrel while in that position.
There are four basic crane aligning
steps. The correct combination of
these steps will move the crane in any
required direction. Make adjustments
carefully to prevent over-bending. The
following rules apply:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Always keep the thimble gauge

on the crane barrel while tapping
or striking the crane. Tap the
body of the gauge, not the crane
barrel.
Prevent over-alignment by rechecking thimble gauge position
after each impact.
Keep the aligning wedge smooth
by filing or sanding the surface as
needed. Before using wood
wedges, I suggest rubbing the
surface on a paraffin block to
keep it smooth and non-resistant.
Don't tap or strike the wedge or
thimble gauge if the gauge tip is
still inside the latch pin tunnel.
The alignment wedge shown in figures

195 and 196 is easily made from a
piece of 1 1/8" x 5" hardwood.
Figure 194- Shows the tap, or strike direction needed to move

the crane barrel as shown in the inset, above. Movement in this
direction requires an impact where indicated on the crane
barrel. In this step, alignment is best controlled with the frame
placed on its side on a wooden bench block. Strike lightly,
recheck alignment.
151
Crane Alignment Steps

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
When doing the yoke open,

downward strike, step shown in
figure 193, place the butt of the
revolver on the bench while
holding the barrel firmly. Then
strike the body of the thimble
gauge with a plastic hammer or
lead bar, at the location shown.
When moving the yoke barrel by
striking it while inside the frame,
tap the body of the thimble gauge
with the end of a wooden hammer
handle or lead bar, where shown
in figure 194. This step is made
much easier by placing the frame
on a wooden bench block before
crane adjustment.
The aligning wedge is used for up
and down crane barrel
adjustments. Remove thimble
gauge when making wedge
adjustments, and then reinstall it
to recheck crane alignment. Place
the wedge at the end of the crane
barrel and against the inside back
of the frame, as shown in figures
195 and 196. Tap the wedge
gently; the ramp shape generates
a lot of leverage. When hit too
hard, the wedge will move the
crane more than the estimated
amount.
Carefully adjust, or repeat
adjustment, in any of the four
steps until you have perfect crane
alignment.
When crane barrel alignment is
correct, the tip of the thimble
gauge easily enters the latch pin
tunnel on exact centre just as the
crane closes. The gauge will slip
in smoothly, without having to
apply pressure on the crane arm
or crane barrel.
Figure 195- Shows an aligning wedge being used to lift the

crane barrel up, after gauge checking the crane. See inset
above. Installing the wedge on the left side of the frame secures
the crane arm while the crane barrel is being moved upward.
Cranes may need adjustment, or a final re-adjustment, in a
second direction.
Figure 196- Shows the aligning wedge being used again to

move a crane barrel downward. See inset, above. When a crane
has been aligned correctly, the tip of the thimble gauge will
easily enter the latch pin tunnel on exact centre, just as the
crane closes, and without the need to exert pressure on the
crane arm or crane barrel.
152
Figure 197- Shows an E/I cylinder bolt that is worn out at the actuator tip, although it may not seem so at
first glance. A "guesser" attempted to refit this bolt. By now, it has everything imaginable wrong with it.
See list, below.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Bolt head width- was polished too thin for correct cylinder bolt slot fit- and is also loose in the frame
window. When the bolt head is thin, either from wear or mis-fitting, it should be replaced, for that
reason alone.
Bolt head width- was further narrowed by re-polishing the left side of an already too thin bolt head.
Bolt head width- was reduced even more by over-polishing the frame side (back) of the cylinder bolt
body.
Bolt stop shoulder- was over-filed; this, in turn, raised the head and lowered the bolt actuator tip too
much. By itself, this is a cause for bolt replacement.
Bolt head contour- is wrong and no longer matches the cylinder's bolt slot leads. Elevating the bolt
head too much shifts head contour somewhat off centre.
Bolt head height- was readjusted, and is now too low for correct cylinder slot engagement. Also, the
head still has the above off-centre contour.
Bolt tang- was over-bent, re-bent, and hardened- by itself a reason for replacement. This was
probably an attempt to solve a worn actuator tip problem.
Bolt actuator tip- was shortened, probably in an attempt to re-square a worn- round actuator tip. Keep
in mind that the main cause for bolt replacement is wear rounding at the rear corner. Altering or
modifying the tip never works.
Bolt actuator tip- the side was altered, probably in an attempt to solve a "no return" problem.
Any alteration of the bolt actuator tip, aside from burr removal and slight, careful bending to improve bolt
drop timing and return, will destroy the bolt tip. When such bolts are found, replace them. Don't try to
repair misfit bolts with further modification.
Before replacing a rebound lever, always check to see if the rear corner of the bolt actuator tip is
excessively worn (heavily rounded off). Since a worn bolt will have to be replaced, anyway, it's a better,
faster, and, by far more economical practice to replace the bolt first, and then fit the rebound only once.
153
Replace Cylinder Bolt

Normally, cylinder bolts wear at the
right side of the head, at the top riding
point, and at the actuator tip. In many
cases, a worn original bolt can be
elevated and refit if refitting is
correctly done. But when the bolt is
loose in the cylinder from wear, or has
been misfit too narrow, the bolt must
be replaced. Fit new bolts as follows:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Always check new bolt heads

against cylinder slots.
Lightly polish left and right sides
with #400 sand cloth. But, do not
undersize.
Dress left side if bolt head drags
in frame window.
Check bolt pivot screw tension.
Without the spring, bolt must
lightly drag frame with pivot
screw fully seated.
Check and adjust final bolt head
height, contour, and riding point.
See figure 199, & bolt fitting,
Section I.
With earlier D frames, check the
stepped bolt stop in the frame. If
the step is intact, an early style
bolt may be installed. Otherwise,
level the step and install a late
non-stepped D bolt. See stop
cross-section in fig. 199.
Install bolt and spring. Seat pivot
screw, then check position of bolt
actuator tip vs. rebound cam.
Rebound adjustment is almost
always necessary and must be
done before adjusting bolt timing.
See rebound fitting sections.
If bolt drops early with correct
rebound, bend bolt actuator tip
toward rebound.
If bolt drops late, bend tip back
slightly or check bypass bevel at
front of rebound. See bolt timing
data, Sect. I.
Figure 198- Shows Colt E/I and D replacement bolts. These

well made parts are sized at full pre-fit dimension, or a tad
oversize if compared to most already fit parts. This sizing helps
compensate for frame and bolt slot wear, and can sometimes
help a low rebound. Bolt tangs must be adjusted for correct bolt
timing.
Figure 199- Shows checking bolt engagement in an I frame, at

left. E/I bolts should enter cyl. slots 1/32", or approx. .033" on
the high side, and a min. of .005" on the low side. Actual bolt
engagement is checked with feeler gauge strips at the bolt stop
or with Prussian Blue. Gauge testing is difficult with stepped D
model stops.
154
Replace Trigger
D, E and I triggers should be replaced
when the frame pin hole is worn,
loose, or the SA sear has been cut too
short. Triggers that have been altered
by over polishing [are too thin] can
move sideways when squeezed, cause
hand problems, and variable sear
releases, as well. Replace these
triggers, also. See figure 200. Fit
replacement triggers as follows:
1.
2.
3.
Figure 200- Shows I & D replacement triggers. Fitting points
are shown. Critical areas are left at full fitting size. Although it
isn't usual, sears can be a bit long. If not adjusted at fitting, a
long sear will engage at a slightly lower trigger- hammer
position. This can cause sear-hammer drag or "bump" at single
action hammer release.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Check trigger/frame pin fit. Ream

trigger pin hole, if tight on pin.
See figure 200.
Clearance the frame side of the
S.A. sear and safety link pin head.
See fig. 201.
Install trigger, safety lever and
safety. Check for link pin drag
and/or upper safety drag inside
the frame recess.
If drag is present, lightly stone the
rear edges of the upper safety, but
only until it runs free in frame
recess. Warning: Do not alter the
original thickness of the safety
hammer block.
Check trigger width between
frame and sideplate.
If the trigger fits tight or drags in
the frame, dress the bearing
surface at the left side of the
trigger with #400 sandcloth, until
it runs free.
Single action sear fitting and
adjustment is last. See figure 202.
Sear note: Final trigger and hammer

dimensions may vary a bit with each
set-up and parts production run. For
this reason, all sears must be carefully
checked. Sear fit must be adjusted to
correct hammer notch engagement and
safe trigger pull.
Figure 201- Shows the safety link pin in an E/I model

replacement trigger. The narrow frame side of the single action
sear is lightly filed, or stoned, for safety lever clearance. To
prevent frame drag, the head of the safety link pin is dressed
until just flush with the safety lever. Warning: do not undersize
the link pin head.
155
Figure 202- Shows basic sear fitting angles and sear point correcting angles. Once engaged, the bottom
corner of the single action sear (sear seat) rests on the lower surface of the hammer's single action cocking
notch. Sear seat position is important, since the angle of the sear face from there up, toward either (+) or
(-) determines just how high or low the sear point will be when it contacts the cocking notch engagement
ledge. What this amounts to is that the location of the sear engagement point is important, but the exact
sear angle is not. The bottom corner of the sear is also important and should not be moved (unless the
trigger is long) because sear point engagement starts from there.
With the cocking notch engagement ledge actually over-engaging the sear, the higher the sear point
contacts the ledge, the lower the trigger pressure that is needed to move the sear the remaining distance to
release. And, the lower the position of the sear point, the greater the pressure needed to push back, and
overcome the ledge.
The "Zero Line"- Sear point position, on the line illustrated above, places sear engagement at approx. 1/3
of the way below the cocking notch over-engagement ledge. Typically, trigger pull would be moderate.
The Minus Line- Changing sear angle in this direction (without moving the sear seat) raises the sear
contact point, and reduces single action trigger pull.
The Plus Line- Changing sear angle in this direction lowers the sear contact point, and increases single
action trigger pull.
The C1 Line- Bevelling an E/I sear at this approx. angle, can lower a slightly high engagement point.
Very little of the top need be removed.
The C2 Line- Bevelling a D sear at this much flatter angle also lowers the engagement point. Sometimes,
the lightest polishing will do the job.
Fitting sears requires a very light touch. Over-cutting the sear makes trigger replacement necessary.
Never alter the S.A. cocking notch. Best tools for sear work: a good bench light, magnifying glass, hard
white Arkansas stones, and a tool maker's vice or sear fixture. See trigger pull specifications and figure
177.
156
Replace Hammer Assembly
Hammers are replaced when frame pin
holes are worn or oversized, when the
cocking notch has been altered, or the
hammer has been otherwise damaged.
The frame pin hole can be easily
checked against a new replacement
pin.
If only the double action strut is worn
or misfit, the hammer assembly need
not be replaced. E/I models use the
#50486 strut and #50454 spring. D
models use #56107 struts and #50400
springs.
Figure 203- Shows I and D model replacement hammer

assemblies. Fitting areas are indicated. Before hammer
replacement, check the old hammer for evidence of drag from
possible high spots inside the frame. The old double action
strut should also be checked for unusual let-out; a sign of
possible timing problems.
Figure 204- Shows checking an I replacement hammer in the

frame. Pin fit is checked first. When necessary, the hammer's
frame pin hole is reamed for correct fit. The frame must not
stop the hammer before picking up the SA sear. Also, check for
rebound clearance, and hammer interference at the upper
frame/sideplate joint.
New replacement E model hammers

and firing pins have been discontinued
by the factory, and are no longer
available. Dealers in used and
discontinued parts are the only
remaining source.
1.
Check new hammer fit on

existing frame pin. Ream the
hammer pin hole if pin fit is tight.
2. Pre-polish both sides of hammer
on #400 sandcloth.
3. Install both hammer and
sideplate. Check drag.
4. Re-polish and level sides until
drag is gone. Do not undersize
hammer width.
5. Check for correct SA sear pick-up
before the hammer contacts
frame. Adjust frame as needed.
See figure 204.
6. Check for hammer drag at
frame/sideplate joint.
7. Dress frame and sideplate to
eliminate hammer drag.
8. Check SA sear engagement, pull,
and push-off.
9. Polish and check DA strut. See
earlier sections on strut let-out
and bolt timing.
10. Check safety clearance. With E &
I model hammers, edge chamfer,
or "under cut" the hammer skirt,
as needed.
157
Replace Cylinder Hand

Most hands are replaced when they
are short and have been stretched once
before- or because the hand broke
while being stretched. Some are
replaced because they have been
altered or damaged by incorrect
fitting. Reverse filing the hand's
tensioning cam is one of the worst
alterations. This rounds off, or angles,
the top of the cam forward and causes
the hand to back up and stick the
rebound. The rebound, in turn, sticks
the trigger.
The only valid hand modification is
stretching and then refitting the top
and bottom hands. Beyond this, the
hand must be replaced.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Install and hold the hand flat

against side of trigger. Check
hand/frame clearance.
Adjust hand to a slight frame
clearance by bending or flattening
the body of the hand as needed.
See fig. 206.
Polish the inside [frame side] of
the hand with #400 sandcloth for
smooth action.
Check hand width against the
frame's hand post. Hand must be
lower than post.
If hand is too wide [thick] file the
outside surface, then polish with
#400 sandcloth. Don't undersize
the hand.
Install the sideplate, snug the
screws, and check for tip and side
hand drag between the frame and
sideplate.
If drag or bind is present, adjust
clearance by slight re-bending
and/or dressing the outside of the
hand.
Note: Before further fitting, the hand

must move freely between frame and
sideplate.
Figure 205- Shows new D and E/I replacement hands. Fitting

points are shown in figures 207 and 208. Parts replacement and
production hands are made at full fitting size. Extra height and
overall dimensions provide enough fitting material to allow for
frame and ratchet wear, and for individual frame fitting
requirements.
Figure 206- Shows slight hand bend necessary for positive

ratchet function. A new hand may bear too much toward either
the frame or sideplate and need bending or flattening so it
won't dig into the frame or bind on the sideplate. To prevent
sideplate drag, the side of the hand must be slightly lower than
the frame post.
158
Figure 207- Illustration shows views of a new E/I model replacement hand. Pre-fitting and final fitting
areas are detailed, above.
New replacement hands are manufactured extra wide and extra tall. However, finished part sizes can vary
from lot to lot. Generally, as a pre-adjustment step, one to four light file strokes can be taken off the top
hand surface. Previous seating of existing ratchet lug surfaces also affects the amount that can be removed
from the top hand. Caution: Go slowly. Don't overcut the hand.
At rest position, or bottom of travel, the tip of the top hand must be even with the front edge of the
frame's ratchet recess. If let out further, the hand will drag or catch the ratchet as the cylinder is opened
and closed.
The rebound must be adjusted before final fitting and adjustment of the top and bottom hand. Instant
cylinder bolt pick-up must be present for top hand timing, and bolt drop timing must be correct in order to
time the bottom hand. Also see earlier top and bottom hand refitting sections.
Top and bottom E and I hand angles must not be changed from factory original.
When top and bottom hands are being fit to a new, and previously unfit ratchet, the lugs may be
"unequal". Fitting to the wrong lug may lead to overcutting the hand. See page 160 for "unequal" ratchet
fitting procedures.
159
Figure 208- Illustration shows views of a new D model replacement hand. Pre- fitting and final fitting
areas are detailed, above.
New replacement hands are manufactured extra wide and tall. However, finished part sizes can vary from
lot to lot. Generally, as a pre-adjustment step, two to six light file strokes can be removed from the D
model top hand surface. Use caution. Don't overcut the hand.
At bottom travel position, the forward tip of the top hand must be even with the front edge of the frame's
ratchet recess. When let out further, the hand will drag or catch the ratchet as the cylinder is opened or
closed.
The rebound must be adjusted before beginning final fitting and adjustment of the top hand, since instant
cylinder bolt pick-up must be present to prevent cylinder rotation from jamming the bolt. Bolt drop timing
must be correct in order to adjust the bottom hand. Also see earlier top and bottom hand refitting sections,
and sections on rebound work and bolt timing.
With both D and E/I hands, the top hand angle must not be changed. However, unlike E and I hands, at
let-out and first fitting [only], the engagement angle of the bottom hand surface is changed and adjusted
to agree with the ratchet. Once correctly set, this angle is maintained thereafter.
Although the smaller D model ratchets tend to be more uniform than the larger E/I type, some amount of
ratchet lug inequality can be present. As with E/I models, initial fitting to the wrong lug may lead to
overcutting the hand. See the next page for "unequal" ratchet fitting procedures.
160
Fitting Top and Bottom Hands to New or "Unequal" Ratchet LugsPrimarily, the following procedure applies with new ratchets that have not been previously fit, lug
adjusted, and/or lug seated by either the bench or test firing seating methods.
Once the new ratchet has been checked for correct cylinder fit, adjusted to correct shoulder length, deburred, and cleaned, (and, with E/I ratchets, 45 degree clearanced for hand bypass) top and bottom hands
can be fit.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Find the one ratchet lug engagement surface that runs lower (or is thicker) than all the others.
Pre-adjust the top hand to fit slightly tight against the lowest ratchet lug. Then, check top hand fit
against all remaining lugs. This pre-fitting step usually makes top hand length fairly close at the other
lugs.
Very carefully adjust, or equalize, the above low lug, and recheck top hand function at each lug
position. Dress top hand as needed for smooth cylinder rotation.
Then, find the one ratchet lug engagement surface that runs higher (or is thinner) than all other lugs.
Pre-adjust the bottom hand to index the cylinder and S.A. cock the action with a slight drag at the
highest lug. After this, check the bottom hand against the remaining lugs. If the remaining lugs are
typical, the bottom hand will be slightly long with most.
Very carefully adjust and equalize only the necessary lugs. For best long term bottom hand fit (with
lug seating in mind at this point), the bottom hand should bring the cylinder to positive bolt index in
all six chamber positions, with the positive feel of single action sear overhaul, but with a slight
cocking drag just as the hammer toe clears the S.A. sear point.
This sets up the bottom hand and ratchet in a slightly long bottom hand condition, and ready for
hand/ratchet seating by either the bench, or test fire method discussed in Section I. Because the above
method equalizes high and low ratchet lug extremes, it is a time saver. It works very well with all but the
rare irregular or off centre ratchet.
Caution: Before top and bottom hand fitting, all rebound adjustments must be made, and instant bolt pick
up must be present. Bolt drop timing must be correct. Normally, a #2 barrette file is used in ratchet lug
adjustment, and very little metal is removed in this work. Use extreme caution. Don't let your file touch
any other surface when filing an individual ratchet lug.
161
Figure 209- Shows an E type rebound, at top, that was factory fit in 1920. The rebound cam shows a little
wear where the bolt actuator tip bypasses over the front of the cam, but bolt drop timing, having been
correctly set, is still not too early. Just below, three views of very badly misfit I model rebounds are
shown. These rebounds have almost everything wrong with them. If not for the rebound lever, D, E, and I
actions would seem extremely simple. The best way to learn the fine points of rebound cam
troubleshooting and fitting is to closely examine both misfit and correct cams as they operate (or
malfunction) with a correctly fit bolt. Use a good magnifying glass. An enlarged view of the cam helps.
Why Rebound Levers are Replaced- see examples, above.
1.
2.
3.
4.
1.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
The front of the cam has been misfit short- the bolt drops early.
The front triangle corner was rounded too high- the bolt slips off.
The top of the cam has been filed or stoned lower- this, also, shortens the cam and makes the bolt
drop early.
The cam's front triangle corner was moved back by incorrect adjustmentthis makes the bolt slip off and drop early.
The front corner of the cam and/or front bypass bevel have been angled back from the correct 90
degrees- this makes the bolt fall off the edge of the cam and drop early (or drop, in some cases,
almost instantly).
The hammer seat has been overcut- this rebounds the hammer too far forward. The front of the
hammer binds or catches the safety hammer block.
The clearance bevel angle is wrong, and/or over cut- this makes an otherwise correctly fit hammer
seat inoperative.
End of rebound lever was filed short- this cam is now too low for instant bolt pick-up; if re-bending
can't cure the problem, the lever must be replaced.
Front lever was cracked or broken by incorrect bending.
Note 1: Before replacing a rebound, make it a practice to check for a misfit or altered cylinder bolt or bolt
actuator tip. Note 2: Being smaller, the D model rebound cam is even more unforgiving of mis-fitting
than the E/I.
162
Figure 210- Shows E/I replacement rebound fitting steps. The #50462 rebound is listed for the I model,
but is also used by factory service as an E replacement.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
Polish pivot sides of the rebound lever for free movement inside the frame.
Straighten and polish the lever extension to prevent hand or trigger drag.
Cut front triangle surface for bolt escape, also polish upper triangle and right side of cam for bolt
return.
When needed, lightly break the front bypass corner for bolt drop clearance.
If needed, slightly break the front triangle corner for bolt actuator tip return.
Polish the front bypass bevel face for smooth bolt bypass.
Keep both the front of the cam and the extension lever angles at 90 degrees.
Adjust rebound hammer seat to provide .005-.010" hammer/safety clearance.
When needed, file 35 to 45 degree clearance bevel to provide rebound- hammer heel clearance and/or
trigger return clearance. File only the minimum amount needed to correct the problem. See figures
212 and 213.
Adjust the rebound cam for instant bolt pick up. See figures 214 and 215.
When needed, file lever only enough to slightly drop the cam. This is a fine adjustment step, only.
Larger adjustments are done by bending the rebound.
Polish edge of extension lever, corner, and sharp edges with #400 sandcloth.
Stone or polish bypass bevel (front of cam) to cure a "hard over cam" or slight bolt bypass drag/bind
condition. Don't change the original factory angle.
Stone bypass bevel face or slightly round top corner to correct late bolt drop.
163
Figure 211- Shows D model replacement rebound fitting steps. The #56091 rebound lever is used
throughout the D model line.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Polish pivot sides of the rebound lever for free movement inside the frame.
Straighten and polish the lever extension to prevent hand or trigger drag.
Polish the outside of the rebound lever body to prevent sideplate drag.
Cut front triangle surface, as needed, for bolt tip escape and return.
Lightly polish the right side of the cam and upper front triangle for smooth bolt return. Warning: use
an extra light touch and keep the top cam square.
Keep both the front of the cam and the extension lever angles at 90 degrees.
Adjust the hammer seat to provide .005 to .010" hammer/safety clearance.
When needed, file a 35 to 45 degree clearance bevel to provide rebound- hammer heel clearance
and/or trigger return clearance. File only the minimum amount needed to correct. See figures 212 and
213.
With D cams, don't file or round-off the upper front bypass bevel corner.
Adjust the cam for instant bolt pick up. See figures 214 and 215.
When needed, file lever just enough to slightly drop the cam. This is a fine adjustment step, only.
Larger adjustments are done by bending the rebound.
Polish edge of extension lever, corner, and sharp edges with #400 sandcloth.
Change D bypass bevel angle to cure a "hard over cam", or slight bypass drag/bind condition. Don't
change the position of the top front bypass corner.
164
Fitting New Rebound Levers
After deburring/polishing the lever
extension, and pre- fitting the front
triangle, install the rebound with trial
pin, hand, and action parts.
Replacement rebound lever hammer
seats and clearance bevels are made
long for fitting, and will ride on the
hammer heel, to some extent. Called
"hammer on the lever", this desirable
beginning condition provides enough
material for proper fitting. From here,
the first step is to fit the rebound's
hammer seat and clearance bevel to
bring the hammer close to the correct
.005-.010" hammer-safety clearance.
See figures 212 and 213.
Figure 212- Illustrates the basic "hammer on lever" rebound

condition. With the hammer "on the lever", and the trigger held
back, the hammer will feel springy, or "hammer bounce"
against the bottom corner of the rebound, if pushed forward.
This prevents full trigger return, and holds trigger/hand
position high.
Caution: File very little surface

material at a time from the hammer
seat and bevel surfaces. When overfit,
the hammer will rebound too far
forward, and drag or catch the safety.
High and Low Rebounds When either
of the following extreme rebound
conditions are found, always adjust
the rebound lever first, to prevent
over-fitting or undersizing the hammer
seat.
1.
2.
Figure 213- Shows a sectioned rebound lever and the correct

hammer-rebound [hammer seat] position. A 35 to 45 degree
clearance bevel takes the hammer "off the lever". Then, final
fitting of the hammer seat brings the hammer's safety stop just
to .005-.010" safety clearance position; trigger and hand can
then fully return.
The rebound is too low, and there

is no instant bolt pick up, because
clearance exists between the
rebound cam and the bolt actuator
tip.
The rebound lever is too high, and
is not in contact with the hammer
heel. This too long lever, or over
arched rebound must be lowered
to fitting range before the hammer
seat can be adjusted. Also see
rebound re-fitting work in Section
I.
165
Adjust Rebound for Instant Bolt

Pick-Up and Return
After the rebound's hammer seat has
been correctly fit, [which will adjust
out any remaining "hammer on lever"
condition] the rebound will return
from firing position smoothly, draw
the hammer back to the correct safety
clearance, and allow full trigger and
hand return. The rebound lever is then
at rest position. If rebound cam
position is correct at this time, the bolt
actuator tip will then return over the
right side of the cam and snap into
position at the top of the cam, ready
for the next cycle. At this point, there
should be zero visible clearance
between the top of the cam and the
bottom of the bolt actuator tip. But,
when the cam is low, the clearance
between cam and bolt tip will delay
instant pick-up [the bolt head must
begin downward movement instantly,
when the trigger is moved]. If the cam
is low, the rebound must be carefully
bent, or arched upward until no
clearance remains. See figure 214.
Figure 214- Shows bending, or arching, the rebound lever

higher to adjust rebound cam position. This is done by placing
the rebound lever on a bending fixture [or across steel blocks],
holding it straight, and then tapping with a brass hammer. Bend
rebounds carefully. Use light taps. Install and recheck between
taps.
If the cam is even slightly high, the

bolt actuator tip will drag, or refuse to
return. In this case, the end of the
extension lever can be filed or stoned
just enough to provide bolt return
clearance. If taken lower, instant pickup will be destroyed. When the
rebound is higher than can be adjusted
out with two or three light file strokes,
it should be bent lower. See figure
215. Final bolt drop timing is adjusted
last.
Figure 215- Shows bending a high rebound lever down. This is

done by holding the rebound lever straight on a steel bench
block and tapping the top of the rebound with a brass hammer.
When bending rebounds up or down, always use caution;
rebound levers break easily. Check cam position between each
adjusting tap.
166
Figure 216- Shows a half-sectioned Python cylinder with excess cylinder/frame endplay. In this example,
the increased endplay was caused by heavy loads which resulted in a stretched frame and seating of the
cylinder collar. Headspace at "A" measures Just at .066" [or half way between the Python maximum of
.070" and minimum of .062"], with the cylinder collar held forward against the frame. Cylinder endplay,
at "B" measures over limit, at .004". With these readings, we can estimate that the cylinder was probably
at near zero endplay and at minimum headspace of .062" when the revolver left the factory.
Why Cylinder Collars Are StretchedSubject to the frame and cylinder collar limitations discussed below, stretching and refitting the cylinder
collar will:
1.
2.
3.
Adjust the cylinder back to the minimum headspace setting.

Correct cylinder endplay, in many cases.
Or, allow correction for an over-fit [undersized] cylinder collar shoulder.
But, there is a limit to the amount that any collar can be, or should be, stretched. And, stretching the
cylinder collar is not a remedy for all cylinder in-frame problems. Some collars will stretch even less than
the suggested .006-.008" pre- trim limit, before work hardening. Trying to stretch these collars further
will, very likely, damage the collar. In these cases, if frame condition is acceptable, the cylinder assembly
should be replaced. Once headspace and endplay have been corrected by either stretching the collar or
replacing and refitting the cylinder, barrel-cylinder gap must then be remedied if excessive. See figures
217 and 218, and barrel work, this section.
Frames that have been stretched and allow cylinder endplay of more than several thousandths may have
other pressure related problems that might suggest frame replacement- or make it necessary. Adjusting
cylinder collars and/or replacing cylinders in excessively stretched frames is not a sound practice.
167
Stretch Cylinder Collar

Most cylinder collars can be stretched
on a one-time only basis, providing
they are not taken past the suggested
.006-008" max. stretch limit. Beyond
this, risk of thinning the walls, or
deforming and damaging the collar, is
too great. Stretching collars a second
time increases the possibility of
damage and is not recommended.
Collars should not be stretched in
cylinders having non-integral, pressed
in, etc., collars.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Estimate amount collar length

must be increased to return
cylinder to min. headspace and
correct endplay.
If length needed is within stretch
limits, secure cylinder and
mandrel in the swaging fixture,
and stretch carefully in steps. See
figure 217.
Minimize work hardening by
swaging slowly, and by rotating
the cylinder 180 degrees with
each step. Do not over-stretch the
collar. Warning: Don't use heat on
collar. The cylinder's factory heat
treat will be altered.
When pre trim length has been
reached, chuck and align the
cylinder in an aluminium
clamping fixture. Trim collar
length to correct min. headspace.
See fig. 218.
Caution: Don't fit cylinder under
min. headspace even if slight
endplay remains.
Lightly counterbevel the inside of
the newly trimmed collar shoulder
to prevent drag at shoulder and
frame. Note: The cylinder collar
also can be trimmed on a lathe,
but is done faster on a mill, as
shown in figure 218.
Figure 217- Shows a cylinder set up in a collar

swaging/stretching fixture. Once the collar is secured in the
fixture, the jaws are installed and then compressed in a
hydraulic press. After stretching, the cylinder collar will have a
slight swaged down appearance, or reduction in O.D. as shown
in the example, above.
Figure 218- Shows the cylinder chucked in an aluminium

clamping fixture. The collar is then milled to length with a
piloted facing cutter. To prevent over-cutting, estimate the
exact collar length needed, then cut only half that amount on
the first pass. Recheck headspace, and final trim the collar to
correct length.
168
Figure 219- Shows a cylinder/ratchet assembly that was replaced for the four following reasons; any one
of which, by itself, would have been reason enough for replacement: the cylinder collar, at "A", was
altered and cut too short, increasing headspace and endplay beyond maximum limit; on firing, the
cylinder then hit the barrel, marking the cylinder face with circular indentations at "B"; the ratchet lugs, at
"C", have been badly misfit and damaged, and the ratchet shoulder is crooked; also, the guide pin holes in
the ejector star, at "D", were enlarged, allowing excess ratchet sideplay on the cylinder's guide pins.
Why Most Cylinder/Ratchet Assemblies are Replaced1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Interior or exterior of the cylinder pitted, excessively worn, or damaged.

Bolt slot cuts in the cylinder worn, altered, buffed-out, or damaged.
Cylinder collar damaged, or short and beyond stretching.
Spline/stem guide inside the cylinder altered or damaged.
Ejector star and/or guide pins misfit, altered, or damaged.
Ratchet lug, or lugs, misfit, altered, or damaged.
Ratchet shoulder misfit, too short, or damaged.
Cylinder face/chamber exits rounded, buffed-out, or damaged.
Chamber walls, exit throats altered or damaged.
Note: When a frame's ratchet seat has been spot faced to clean up a slightly rough seat, new
cylinder/ratchet assemblies must be installed. After setting headspace, the new ratchet is then fit to correct
cylinder endplay.
169
About Early D and E Model Replacement Cylinders and RatchetsThe great number of cylinder variations found in early style, and intermediate, Colt double action
revolvers, could serve to confuse an otherwise extremely simple parts history. This is particularly true
with the small frame models. A brief summary may help.
In 1943, with the press of heavy WW II production, Colt's short cylinder/small frame models, originally
made for the older, shorter cartridges such as the .38 S&W, .38 Colt Short, .32 NP, and etc., were
discontinued.
The longer cylinder [and frame] Police Positive Special, Detective Special, and later, similar model
variations, continued in production. In 1947, this long cylinder version was then designated the "D"
frame, and was manufactured continuously at Colt's Hartford plant, until some time in 1984.
Otherwise, with the exception of the late style D model hammer update (and resulting safety change), and
the crane and crane lock update, D model internal parts have remained much the same.
Cylinder/ratchet/rod assemblies were updated in the 1970's to what is now called the "late style".
The earlier small frame cylinders (before the "D" designation) were made in three basic size variations:
1.
2.
3.
Short cylinders- made in 1 1/4" length for shorter frame models such as Police Positive and Banker's
Special, chambered for .32 NP, .38 S&W, and other short cartridges.
Long cylinders- made in the longer 1 5/8" length for the .38 Spl. Police Positive Special Model, etc.
Small diameter cylinders- these were a slightly smaller diameter version of the 1 1/4" cylinder and
were used in the Pocket Positive Model.
Other production and custom cylinder/calibre variations were not uncommon. These include small frame
calibres like the .32 NP chambered in medium frame, E revolvers, and short cylinder calibres chambered
in long cylinder models.
It's likely that medium frame models were given the "E" designation sometime during the Official Police
Model production run. The I model cylinder evolved from the original E cylinder, and runs about .050"
longer in body length. E model cylinders in all calibres, and I model cylinders in .38 Spl. calibre are now
factory discontinued.
As far as cylinder and related replacement parts are concerned, the only cylinder/ratchet replacement
assemblies that are factory available at this time are the late style D model in .22 LR and .38 Spl., and the
late I model in .357. Early style ejector rods and rod heads are still listed.
Parts specialists such as Gun Parts Corp. (formerly Numrich Arms) have purchased most of Colt's new
discontinued factory parts as well as parts stocks from armouries all over the world. Availability can be
unpredictable with discontinued and obsolete parts; nonetheless, GPC probably has the largest known
selection of discontinued new, and serviceable used, Colt parts. GPC also manufactures some factory
discontinued replacement items such as E model firing pins and Colt M19l7/New Service bolts, etc.
When ordering non-current cylinders, the above model and cylinder variations must be taken into
consideration. Always specify exact model, calibre, and cylinder type.
When ordering factory discontinued [new] "screw-on" type ratchets, remember that ratchets must be fit
first to the cylinder and then to the frame. When ordering used ratchets, you run the risk that the ratchet
received may be shorter than the one being replaced. For this reason, minimum ratchet height should be
discussed at the time of ordering. Used ratchets will also require fitting. See factory discontinued parts
section.
170
About Late Style Cylinder
Assembly ReplacementsWith early and intermediate D
cylinders no longer factory available,
only late style D cylinders are shipped.
Currently, the late D model #56557,
#56557N, #58801 [matte] .38 Spl.
cylinders and #56560B .22 LR
cylinder are supplied for replacement
use. These replace all D model
cylinders of .38 Spl. length.
Figure 220- Shows a #53382R I model replacement cylinder

assembly. The #53382R (or N) replaces late type I carbon steel
cylinders. Intermediate I (pre s/n #36190E) #51237R (N)
cylinders are still catalogued, but the #51662 is not. Some early
I frames may require the rod bushing, spring, and crane
bushing kit shown.
Late I cylinders, after S/N 36190E,

directly replace all late .357 I model
cylinders. See figure 220. .38 Spl. I
cylinders are discontinued. E model
cylinders are no longer factory
available in any calibre. And, Colt's
parts department indicates no future
plans for production.
The I #56721 stainless steel cylinder
began after change- over to late style
production, and is a direct
replacement.
Warning: Do not, under any
circumstances, alter an E model to
receive any I .357 cylinder. Consider
the result if a .357 round was fired.
If original type D/E cylinder
replacement is necessary, and the
condition of the frame, barrel and
internal parts warrants the work, check
with suppliers of new factory
discontinued [and also used] parts,
such as GPC, West Hurley, N.Y.
Note: With any new or used
replacement cylinder/ratchet
assembly, always check for correct fit
at the ejector star, guide pins, and stem
spline, before beginning fitting work.
Pre-check and return any cylinder
assembly not in serviceable condition.
Figure 221- Shows an early style crane aligned and chucked in

clamping blocks, and ready for crane barrel flange removal.
The crane is aligned with a dial gauge placed in the mill tool
holder. This update is part of the installation of late style D and
I model cylinders; afterward, the cylinder headspaces directly
on the frame.
171
Set Cylinder Headspace

New D and I replacement cylinders
are built with extra long collars for
head-spacing in both early and late
model frames. Set as follows:
1. Install cylinder on crane, without
ratchet and stem. Make sure crane
lock is snug.
2. Close cylinder, measure headspace
at top rear of the cylinder. Make sure
there are no dents or nicks in the
cylinder or frame to alter the accuracy
of the measurement.
3. Trim the cylinder collar. Start by
removing only half the estimated
amount. Then, recheck headspace
after each cutting pass. See figure 218.
4. Headspace is correct when a min.
headspace gauge will just fit between
the cylinder and frame [or recoil plate]
with light drag. See fig. 222 and
headspace table, Sect. I.
Set Cylinder Endplay
Once headspace has been set, cylinder
in-frame endplay is controlled by
ratchet shoulder length. See figure
223.
Figure 222- Shows the cylinder in the frame with collar

trimmed to the correct minimum headspace. Headspace is
determined by gauge at the rear of the cylinder, as shown. The
collar can be trimmed to size on a lathe, or on the mill using a
piloted facing cutter. Use the "rule of halves when cutting
critical surfaces.
The ratchet shoulder must be square

and parallel with the frame. The
ratchet can't be free-hand cut. The best
way to adjust the shoulder is on a
surface grinder. But, with care, a good
job can be done at the bench with a
ratchet length adjusting fixture and a
flat mill file. See fig. 225A.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Install ratchet in cylinder, and

cylinder on the crane.
Then, estimate ratchet shoulder
reduction needed to allow the
cylinder to close.
Remove only half of the
estimated reduction amount.
Recheck cylinder fit.
Then, repeat steps 2 and 3, until
cylinder just closes.
Figure 223- Shows a new, uncut ratchet, set up in the frame for
shoulder measurement. Fit the ratchet shoulder to a near zero
in-frame endplay for match use. Approx. .001" endplay is
probably better for general service, or duty use. Always use the
"rule of halves" when adjusting ratchet height. See figs. 224 &
225A.
172
Setting Ratchet Length
Both of the ratchet fitting methods
shown in figure 224 and 225A
produce a well fit ratchet shoulder that
is flat, smooth, and free of burrs.
Surface Grinder FittingThe easiest way to trim ratchet
shoulders with late style, fixed stem
ejector- ratchets, when you have the
use of a surface grinder and magnetic
chuck, is to:
1.
2.
3.
Figure 224- Shows one of two methods for trimming ratchet
shoulders to correct height. The above late style ratchet/stem
assembly has been magnetically chucked in a stem block, and
is ready for surface grinding to correct shoulder height.
Finished ratchets must be square and parallel with the frame's
ratchet seat.
True a steel block, then drill a

.215" hole to receive the ratchet
stem. See fig. 224.
Dress and square a #100 grit
wheel, then insert ratchet stem in
the steel block.
Energize the mag. chuck, reduce
the shoulder .0005" at a time,
until the correct ratchet length is
reached.
Bench Fixture FittingWith bench ratchet shoulder fitting

fixtures (see fig. 225A), adjustment is
made by hand with a flat mill file.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Clamp fixture between bronze

vice jaws. Install the ratchet in the
fixture.
Cut in .001" -.0005" steps. Adjust
height by selecting correct
elevating washer.
Install draw down screw and
secure ratchet.
Reduce shoulder height to flush
with the top of the hardened
fixture with a flat, fine cut mill
file.
Repeat steps 2, 3, 4, until
shoulder length is correct.
Note: After cylinder/ratchet assembly

replacement, two other important
checks must be made:
Figure 225- Shows a replacement cylinder fit to correct
headspace and with near zero in-frame endplay. With cylinder
work done, barrel- cylinder clearance, or gap, must be checked.
Frame stretch always adds to barrel/cylinder gap. Maximum
factory allowable gap is .008". If in excess of .008", barrel
must be re-qualified.
1.
2.
Check hand-ratchet fit and

operation. Adjust long lug, or refit
hand, if needed.
Check barrel/cylinder gap. See
figure 225.
173
Ratchet Lug/Hand Clearance

With E/I type ratchets, hand clearance
bevels are cut at the tips of the ratchet
lugs after the ratchet has been fit to the
cylinder body, and the ratchet
shoulder has been finally adjusted and
trimmed to correct in-frame endplay.
Suggested cylinder in-frame endplay
for service duty revolvers should not
exceed .001". Competition revolver
endplay should be as close to zero as
possible.
E/I type ratchet lug tips must be
bevelled at approximately 45 degrees
for top hand cycling clearance. See
figure 225B.
Warning: Adjoining ratchet lug
surfaces must not be hit or nicked
when filing clearance bevels.
1.
2.
3.
Chuck the ejector star in a tool

maker's vice for this work. To
make fitting easier, position the
ejector star at an angle so that the
45 degree lug cut will be made
parallel to the top of the vice.
Use a barrette file positioned with
the dull side toward the ejector
star finger, and the cutting edge
well clear of the adjoining ratchet
lug surface.
Make each cutting pass at a 45
degree angle to the lug being cut.
Cut away from the ejector and
adjoining lug.
Figure 225A- Shows a hardened, precision ground ratchet

fitting fixture designed by the author for bench use, and built
by tool maker Bob Fillippini. Half-thousandth size elevating
washers provide correct ratchet fitting position. The ratchet is
filed and then stoned to exact length; fixture provides a 90
degree shoulder.
About D RatchetsSince the top hand stays engaged with

D style ratchets, no lug bevelling or
clearancing is required.
Figure 225B- Shows a close view of an E/I type ratchet and

correctly cut hand clearance bevels at the tips of the lugs. The
illustrations at right show ratchet lug clearance bevel details.
Always use caution when cutting clearance bevels. Do not
contact the ejector star or other ratchet lug surfaces when
filing.
174
Figure 226- Shows barrel damage conditions, in items 1, 2, 3, and 7, that make barrel replacement
necessary. The key word here is "damage". Without exception, the forcing cone problems shown in 1 and
2 are caused only by the combination of extreme temperatures and pressures. Some only moderately
eroded and/or edge cracked forcing cones may appear to clean up at .025"-.030"- or just at a one thread
barrel set-back. But, after this punishment, the unknown and questionable condition of the steel makes
trying to reuse such barrels an unsound, and possibly unsafe, practice.
The usual conditions that make barrel set back, or re-qualification, necessary are shown in items 4, 5, and
6. Barrel replacement is also recommended when the conditions in 4 and 5 are found in an extreme formwhere setting the barrel back one turn from original factory installation will not clear the problem.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Forcing cone- is eroded, carburized, and brittle. This is caused especially by heavy over
pressure/temperature loads with slow burning powders.
Forcing cone- is cracked, blown, and/or internally damaged.
Barrel- is bulged or barrel bore has another internal irregularity such as a dimple or flattened area, etc
Altered forcing cone- has a compound, or double cut forcing cone angle- or the mouth opening
diameter has been cut too large.
Rear barrel face- is mis-cut on an angle- and more than can be straightened within maximum
barrel/cylinder gap clearance limit of .008".
Barrel/cylinder gap- is beyond factory limit of .008" maximum.
Bore- has internal rust, pitting, scratches, or other defects.
175
Remove Barrel
When barrel re-qualification or
replacement is necessary with
aluminium alloy frames, don't attempt
barrel removal in the field. Without
proper equipment, risk of cracking, or
other damage, is too great. With steel
frames, barrel removal damage isn't
found very often. Invariably, steel
frame damage in the several examples
I've seen, has been caused by poor
tooling. The possibility of stuck
threads, and/or galling at the framebarrel torque shoulders make correct
barrel blocks and a good quality barrel
wrench an absolute necessity.
Don't attempt barrel removal with a
hammer or axe handle through the
frame- no matter who says its O.K.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
When dealing with older models,

or resistant barrels, pre-soak the
barrel and frame in a thin mixture
of kerosene and oil for one or two
days.
Break thread and residue bonding
by sharply rapping the framebarrel junction with a plastic
mallet.
Secure both the frame and barrel
in correct tooling. See figures 227
and 228.
Re-tighten tooling if barrel or
frame move or flex.
Apply even pressure in the
direction shown in fig. 228.
Lightly bump wrench handle
when needed to break torque.
Note: at this point, most barrels
break shoulder torque and twist
loose. But, if still resistant, [or if
the frame feels springy with
medium wrench pressure] repeat
1-5 until barrel can be removed.
Figure 227- Shows contoured aluminium barrel blocks, used

for removing and installing Python and Diamondback style
shrouded barrels. These blocks can be used either in a barrel
press, or in a 5" jaw or larger bench vice, as shown, below. The
heavier the vice, the better. Use bronze, or steel angles to
support the blocks.
Warning: Do not use heat to break

barrel/frame bonding.
Figure 228- Shows a frame being untorqued and twisted loose
with an MGW barrel removal wrench. Before attempting to
move the frame, the barrel must be tightly secured so that it
can't move. When using a bench vice instead of a barrel press,
prevent flex by using as large a vice as possible- and in no case
less than 5".
176
Estimate Shoulder Setback
Some amount of shoulder adjustment
or barrel setback is always needed,
even when new barrels are being fit to
a frame. Re-qualifying a barrel
requires machining a one thread
revolution setback from the shoulder.
With Colt's .5634-32 tapered (.017"
tpi) threads, a turn is approx. .035"
and 1/2 turn = .0175". With a 50/50
torque shoulder and crush relief area
ratio, barrel shoulders are final fit to a
hand tight contact at 30 to 45 degrees
remaining- or at approx. 1/8 to 1/10
turn to the 12:00 position. Match
barrels in .22 LR and .38 Spl. are best
fit at approx. 1/10th turn remaining to
12:00.
Frame Shoulder Preparation
Figure 229- Shows barrel fitting points that are checked and
adjusted when installing a new barrel or setting back an
existing barrel. Frame clearance areas are shown at C. The
torque shoulder is shown at T, and the crush relief area at R.
Distance from the barrel shoulder to the first full thread can't
exceed .100".
The frame's barrel shoulder should be

checked and trued before threading in
the barrel and estimating barrel fitting
requirements. See figure 230.
1.
2.
If surface galling build- up is

present, carefully level the
shoulder with a 1/2" x 1/2" fine
cut stone.
Level and remove raised torque or
compression ridges found at the
frame's barrel shoulder if the new
shoulder contacts the raised area.
Frame and Barrel Threads

Closely inspect both frame and barrel
thread condition before installing the
barrel.
1.
2.
3.
Figure 230- Shows barrel torque shoulders on E and I revolver
frames. Shoulders must be flat and at 90 to bore centreline.
Level any galling marks and/or raised torque ridges to prevent
interference with the new, or re-qualified, barrel's shoulder.
Deburr and dress the inside edge to prevent thread and/or
shoulder galling.
Brush and solvent clean frame

and barrel threads.
Check barrel fit in frame. If
threads run tight, or bind, chase
frame threads with a .5634-32 six
flute finish tap.
If the barrel is still thread tight,
carefully clean thread bottoms
with a wire brush.
177
Lathe Cut Barrel Shoulder

The rule of halves is never more
important than with barrel work [i.e.
cut only half of your estimate,
recheck, re-cut, etc.]. Always proceed
carefully when cutting. New barrel
shoulders will vary; some may require
trimming of only a few thousandths to
final fit. When too much is removed
from the shoulder, the barrel will be
loose, and correct torque point will be
beyond top dead centre.
The fixture shown in fig. 231 allows
easy barrel removal to check frame fit
between cuts.
Cut Crush Relief Bevel
With shoulder and threads fit, check
barrel for 30 to 45 degree hand-tight
position:
1.
2.
Then, return the barrel to the lathe

fixture and secure.
Set tool at a slight angle and cut
an .002" clearance bevel into the
inside 50% of the new barrel
shoulder.
Figure 231- Shows lathe trimming the barrel shoulder to

setback position. With first barrel thread starting at .100" inside
the frame, threads are not adjusted forward. A chucked
centering fixture, aluminium driving doe, and live centre are
used here. This fixture allows easy removal and barrel return
during fitting-checking steps.
Note: Don't overcut- for a correct

torque fit, about 50% of the correctly
adjusted barrel shoulder must remain
as cut- at 90 degrees.
Pre-clearance Barrel
1.
2.
3.
Screw barrel in to hand tight and

estimate how much must be
removed from the rear barrel face
to allow the cylinder to just close.
Then, adjust rear barrel face to
that measurement. Note: The
barrel will be longer than the
estimate when torqued to
position. I suggest pre-adjusting
in this way to prevent overcutting.
After trimming the barrel face,
trim off the last thread, then cut a
45 degree cylinder clearance
bevel at the outside barrel corner.
See figure 232.
Figure 232- Shows the barrel shoulder after set back

adjustment. The three remaining steps are:
1. Cut an approx. .002" max. depth crush relief bevel into the
inside 50% of the shoulder.
2. Pre trim the rear barrel face, cut the cylinder clearance
bevel, and remove last thread. And,
3. Mill shroud about .010" for frame clearance.
178
Final Check Barrel Fit
Before torquing the barrel, make the
following checks:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Figure 233- Illustrates final hand-tight position for barrels with
correctly cut shoulders and crush relief bevels. The 90 degree
portion of the barrel shoulder should agree with the frame. Fit
should not vary more than .001", and is easily checked with a
feeler gauge. Use a good anti-seize compound when installing
barrels.
Torque Barrel
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Figure 234- Shows the barrel installed in barrel blocks and the
barrel wrench reinstalled on the frame. Barrel vice and wrench
fittings must be tight to prevent slippage and torquing past top
dead centre. Estimate distance the wrench will travel. Staying
short of that amount until the final adjustment helps prevent
over-twisting.
Feeler gauge check the 90 degree

portion of the barrel shoulder
against the frame. There should
be no more shoulder variation
than .001". See figure 233.
If high spots are present, locate
with Dykem Blue. Then, stone
high areas until surface is within
.001" limit.
With shrouded barrels, check the
upper non-relieved half of the
shroud for frame bind. Lightly file
or stone the surface to prevent
galling.
With rib type barrels, lightly stone
the top [frame side] of the rib for
clearance. Leave the bottom half
intact- it's part of the shoulder.
Always begin by applying a

coating of commercial antiseize
compound [or a paste made 50/50
of graphite and grease] to barrel
and frame shoulders, and barrel
threads.
Screw the barrel into the frame
until it is hand tight.
Install barrel in blocks, and
reinstall barrel wrench.
Tighten the barrel wrench on the
frame, and the barrel blocks in the
barrel vice.
Then, rotate the barrel wrench,
torquing the barrel- frame joint
carefully, a little at a time, while
watching the position of the frame
vs. the front sight. See figure 234.
Warning: If the frame is over torqued

and taken beyond the correct barrel
alignment point at 12:00, or top dead
centre, the barrel then must be
removed and refit.
179
D, E, and I Model Forcing Cone Data
Model
D
D
D
E
E
E
I
Calibre
.22 LR
.32 NP
.38 Spl.
.38 Spl.
.22 LR
.22 Mag.
.38/.357
Mouth
Min.
.238"
.330"
.370"
.363"
.238"
.238"
.370"
Mouth
Max.
.243"
.335"
.383"
.378"
.243"
.243"
.376"
Colt's D, E, and I model forcing cones are factory cut on a .160" taper per
inch. This works out to about 9. These cones use a 9 included angle forcing
cone cutter. However, the matching 9 tapered plug gauge, shown at right,
isn't used to check angle, at all, but instead, to check mouth opening
diameter. Ideally, when the correct plug gauge is used, forcing cones should
gauge midway between the maximum gauge level at 1, and the minimum
gauge level, at 2. Mouth diameter should not exceed maximum gauge
diameter. As an option after gauging, an 82* cutter can be used to lightly
relieve sharp edges at the forcing cone mouth.
Illustration is exaggerated for example.
Forcing cone mouth diameter, at "D", is critical, and must not be greater than, or less than the factory
specified minimums and maximums for the model and calibre as listed above. Bullet deformation is kept
to minimum in revolvers with correct forcing cones.
Figure 234A- Illustration shows barrel/forcing cone cross section, forcing cone angle and mouth diameter
caution. In revolvers, the diameter of the forcing cone mouth opening is more important than the exact
forcing cone angle.
180
Set Barrel/Cyl. Clearance
When barrel installation or requalification is complete, and cylinder
headspace and endplay are at
specification, barrel-cylinder clearance
can then be set. See figure 235.
While a file can be used for this work,
some gunsmiths have difficulty
keeping the barrel face parallel with
the cylinder. For this reason, I suggest
using a piloted facing cutter. With
careful handling, this tooling will cut
the face smoothly and exactly at 90
degrees to bore centreline.
Figure 235- Shows a frame with replacement barrel installed.

The rear face was left long for final adjustment of
barrel/cylinder clearance. A facing cutter is shown installed in
the barrel. For a correct surface finish, select a cutter a bit
larger than barrel face O.D. With hand tooling, use light cutting
pressure to prevent scalloping.
Factory min. clearance is .003" and

max. is .008". With re-qualified or
new barrels, I suggest a clearance of
.005" with the cylinder at near zero
endplay. If clearance is set at or below
.004", firing residue may necessitate
too frequent cleaning. Some match
wadcutter shooters set clearance just
at the limit of .008" to allow for bullet
lube build-up.
Cut Forcing Cone
A correctly cut forcing cone preserves
basic accuracy by preventing
excessive bullet deformation. Rough
cut, off centre, and too large or small
cones destroy accuracy. Key- holing
can be caused by over size mouth
openings and/or compounded cone
angles.
D/E/I barrels are made with 9 forcing
cones. See data on previous page.
With custom barrelling, a steeper 18
cutter is probably best for jacketed
bullets, while an 11 is near optimum
for hollow base wadcutters. Forcing
cones cut at 9, 7, or 55 are more
gradual, and are cut longer to obtain
the correct mouth diameter.
Figure 236- Shows cutting a forcing cone using a Forcing cone

cutter, bore centering pilot, and guide. Cut slowly, with light
drawing pressure to avoid catching a rifling lands and
chattering the cut. Remove very little metal with each cutting
pass. Check mouth opening frequently with a tapered plug
gauge. See figure 237.
181
Cut and Gauge Forcing Cone

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Begin by gauge checking the

existing forcing cone.
When angle is unknown, hand
spin [dry] brass lapping heads
inside the cone, trial and error,
until full brass contact identifies
the angle.
Install the rod, guide, and the
correct pilot and cutter.
Slowly rotate the cutter,
maintaining a light and very even
drawing pressure. Clean and
gauge the cone between cutting
steps. See figure 237.
Repeat cutting/gauging steps until
the desired mouth diameter has
been reached.
Note: As an accuracy step, since

barrels vary somewhat, the mouth of
the finished forcing cone can be set so
the lower level of the plug gauge rests
flush with the barrel face. Thereafter,
the mouth can be enlarged, as
necessary. But, for general use, the
best setting is just at mid-point of the
gauge. See figure 237.
Figure 237- Shows a tapered plug gauge used to check forcing

cones. The gauge shown measures mouth size when a 9
included angle cutter is used. Other cutter angles require
separate gauges. The gauge must not drop past the upper level
in a finished cone. Mouth opening is ideal when gauge stops
midway between gauge levels.
Lap Forcing Cone

Polishing forcing cones to a high gloss
serves no practical purpose. However,
the walls should be lapped just enough
to remove cutting ridges. Silicon
carbide compounds, available either as
a premixed paste or powder, are very
workable; the abrasive sticks to the
much softer brass lapping head,
making it a precision sander. A #320
or #400 polish will reduce the
tendency toward lead build- up in the
cone, and make cleaning easier. See
fig. 238. Note: After lapping, clean the
forcing cone and barrel thoroughly
with kerosene and a brass brush.
Figure 238- Shows a brass lap installed in the forcing cone

after the final gauging and cutting step. The lapping head must
match the cutter (i.e., use only a 9 degree lap, after a 9 degree
cutter). Brush apply a thin coating of #320 or #400 lapping
paste directly to the lap, to prevent the excess from entering the
bore.
182
Recut Barrel Crown
Accidents, careless handling, and
improper transport, etc., can create a
wide variety of exterior nicks, dents,
and general damage. Barrel crown
damage is one of the worst of this
category. See fig. 239. Once barrels
and frames have been assembled, recrowning on a lathe is more than a
little difficult. For this reason, most
tooling available to the armourer is
self-piloting and designed to be used
after the barrel has been installed.
1.
Figure 239- Shows a barrel crown that is both nicked and

dented. Even the smallest nick at the edge of the bore will
engrave bullets, allow pressure blow-by and deflection, and
affect accuracy to some extent. "By eye", and freehand
attempts at re-crowning nearly always make crown problems
worse. Use correct tooling.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Figure 240- Shows a mill set-up for installed barrels using a 45

degree, piloted re-crowning cutter. For this work, the barrel is
held in a contoured aluminium clamping fixture. The hand
cutter with self aligning pilot, shown below, is similar in
design. When used carefully, this tool will produce acceptable
results.
When re-crowning on the mill,

first align the barrel and secure it
in an aluminium clamping fixture.
Then centre the cutter pilot [usual
pilot- bore clearance is .002.004"] in the bore. This produces
a perfect crown and provides
room for chip clearance.
Lube, and cut the crown slowly,
until the dent or nick is just
removed. Trim, at least, to the
bottom of the rifling grooves.
Remove the cutter and install a
brass lapping head of the same
angle.
Brush the lap with a thin coating
of #400 silicon carbide lapping
paste and lightly polish the crown.
Unclamp the revolver. Clean the
bore with a brass brush and
solvent. All traces of lapping
compound must be removed from
the bore. Note: When using hand
type cutters, point barrel downward, clamp barrel between
aluminium vice jaws, then lube
from the inside. This prevents
irregular hand cutting chips from
getting between pilot and bore
and scratching the interior.
183
Figure 241- Shows the plug gauge, or range rod check. Before gauging, barrels and cylinders must be
clean- and 100% free of lead, copper fouling, or other residue. Pre-check crane alignment with a thimble
gauge before making this check. Since this is the basic test for cylinder/barrel misalignment, the crane
must be perfectly straight. Plug gauge check as a routine part of barrel work, cylinder replacement, and
always with accuracy related problems. Plug gauges detect irregularities, only, and cannot measure or
check barrel diameter.
Bore (and lands) diameters can vary somewhat in D, E, and I models. Factory lands specifications at the
muzzle for .38 diameter D and I models run between .345" min. and .348" max., and .346" min. and .347"
max. for E models. Since lands diameter determines gauge head size, a variety of range rod heads should
be stocked to accurately check barrel-cylinder alignment.
Lands I.D. determines test gauge size in any given revolver. For example:
If the lands measure .348", a service diameter gauge head would measure .0015" less, or .3465". A match
diameter gauge would measure .001" less, or .3470".
At the opposite extreme, with the lands at .345", -.0015" would give us a .3435" service gauge head, and
minus .001" a .3440" match gauge head, and etc.
It is unrealistic to expect a service duty revolver to pass the match diameter gauge test with the extremely
small gauge clearance involved.
With straight cranes, even small things such as a slightly loose (undersize) stem, or flaring around the
serial number inside the crane, can hold the crane slightly off centre and cause interference as the plug
gauge enters the cylinder. In some instances, these cranes will just allow thimble gauge/latch pin tunnel
entry.
A worn cylinder bolt and slightly long bottom hand and/or low ratchet lug may also cause gauge
interference. A loose latch pin can add to this condition.
Compression dimpling inside the bore at the barrel shoulder/frame joint, and/or slight flattening from
squeezing the barrel in a bench vice, can cause gauge interference inside the bore. Avoid compression
dimpling by careful barrel thread and shoulder preparation before installation, and by always holding
barrels with contoured blocks. Always pre-test replacement barrels before fitting.
184
Figure 242- Shows a close view of a factory tuned Python model action. When examining custom factory
actions, you will find that fine tuning is basically just a matter of degree. This work involves careful hand
fitting to a high level of action smoothness, precision sear and strut work, and tuned, lightened springs
and trigger pull for .38 Spl. match and competition use.
Tuning Factors Necessary in Match Actions1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Instant bolt pick up and correct bolt drop timing.

Correct hand/ratchet fit and "equal" ratchet lug surfaces.
Perfect crane/cylinder/barrel alignment.
Barrel and cylinder must pass the plug gauge test.
Single action sear set for not less than minimum safe pull, without push-off.
Strut pick-up surface at top of sear is polished for smooth D.A.; top of hammer toe, and S.A. pick-up
surface under sear is polished for smooth S.A.
All action drag factors are eliminated. See figure 243.
Mainspring tension is correctly adjusted. See figures 173 and 174.
Also, in factory tuned Pythons, cylinder bolt springs are slightly shortened.
Warning: When mainsprings are adjusted to minimum factory trigger pull specification, tension is
lowered on both sides of the spring. But, the most obvious effect is that mainspring pressure is less at the
trigger. When mainsprings are adjusted to lower tension, or when lighter custom springs are used, the
force of firing pin impact is also reduced. Lightened mainsprings and correspondingly light trigger pull
make match tuned actions impractical and unsuitable in both field and service duty use for two basic
reasons: the possibility of hammer release before the revolver is on target; and, secondly, lower mainspring energy may deliver questionable performance with standard ammunition.
185
Figure 243- At right, shows possible action drag areas that may require adjustment or polishing to
improve overall action smoothness for match or competition use. Colt has a long standing reputation for
superb "out of the box" production revolver actions. But, custom tuning takes action smoothness to the
point of near perfection.
After final tuning the S.A. sear, D.A. strut, and adjusting mainspring tension, the rest of action tuning is
simply refinement, i.e., the careful elimination of factors that cause drag. Drag and friction are always
additive; a little friction here, a little drag there, can add up to a fair amount of resistance. Action drag
areas, and contributing causes of friction, are listed in the order usually found:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
Hand- when incorrectly bent, insufficiently edge chamfered, etc., the hand may drag, dig into the
frame, or catch the sideplate. When a hand is too thick, or has rough sides, it will bind or drag
between frame and sideplate.
Hand- when let out too far, the forward point of the top hand may extend past the ratchet recess and
drag as the cylinder is opened and closed. The hand may interfere with shell heads when front surface
fitting is incomplete.
Hand pivot pin- if bent, or damaged by vice jaws, can make the hand sticky.
Bottom hand- when long, can hold single action sear position low and cause the hammer to drag or
bump the sear on release. Caution: this also can be caused by a long sear extension.
Hand's tensioning cam- if mis-cut at a wrong or reverse angle, can drag, back up, bind the rebound,
and stick the trigger.
Hand's rebound slot- when rough, the surface can drag or bind the side of the rebound lever. This also
makes the trigger sticky.
Rebound lever- when bent, rough, and/or too wide, the lever can drag the frame, sideplate, and handand may also prevent trigger return.
Rebound lever- if misfit, the hammer seat may rebound the hammer too far forward, and cause safety
drag and/or safety interference.
Hammer- may drag the frame or sideplate if too wide, and/or when the sides and skirts have been
unevenly polished. When the hammer pin hole is tight, the hammer may drag on the pin.
Hammer skirt- inside edge may drag or catch the safety. The hammer skirt may need slight
chamfering on the frame side for safety/link pin clearance.
Frame- high spots, ridges, and/or burrs may drag the hammer or trigger. A nick or burr at the inside
of the sideplate joint may drag the hammer.
Frame- a sharp edge or machining ridge at the ratchet recess corner can interfere with the hand and/or
ratchet. Safety recess burrs may drag the safety.
Safety- high or misfit link pin heads may drag. The safety lever may drag against the trigger. The
upper safety may drag inside its frame recess.
Latch pin- the back of the latch pin may drag against the upper safety as it cycles.
Trigger- when the bearing shoulder is too wide on the left side, trigger will drag between frame and
sideplate. Without side clearance, the right side of an I model sear may drag the safety lever. If the
trigger pin hole is tight, the trigger may drag on the frame pin.
DA strut- a flattened point and/or incorrect strut let-out can produce rough DA release. Also, when
the strut is tight or sticky in the hammer body, the strut can slow or stop trigger return.
Mainspring- excess tension overloads, and drags, the SA sear point. A sharp bottom spring end may
drag the rebound.
186
187
A Few Last Words About Action Tuning and Custom Work . . .

Times have changed for the craftsman. These days, if you do action tuning and custom work, you brush
shoulders with a bad dream come true called product liability, in much the same way as would a
manufacturer. If you are not already familiar with this subject, it might be worthwhile to talk it over with
your attorney. Product liability could be defined as "the modern road to riches." With the help of crafty
lawyers, more and more jerks are now retiring early- and on your nickel.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Remember that custom gunsmithing is creative, and therefore different than basic mechanical repair
work. When you enter this field, you are the designer.
Don't do patch work, ever. When you know that a trigger, barrel, cylinder, frame, etc, actually
requires replacement- replace it and be done with it.
When doing machine work, make all set-ups carefully and on an individual basis. Remember that,
with mass produced products, no two are precisely the same. Always recheck the set-up, before
cutting.
Never alter a safety system. Replace mis-matched safety parts. And, always recheck safety function,
since you may be sued for any mishap, thereafter.
Do only custom work that you know is safe and properly useful. Turn down odd requests for things
such as extremely light trigger pulls, cutaway trigger guards, and etc.
Turn down every "opportunity" to perform low quality work. Whatever work you accept, do it well.
However small, every job you do becomes a part of your reputation.
Do only the highest quality custom work, and price it accordingly, as quality work. In this way, you
will develop a high quality clientele.
Be selective, work only for those who can appreciate fine work. Remember that high quality custom
gunsmithing goes beyond craftsmanship; somewhere along the line, it becomes an art form.
The very best things have always been made by hand: the finest automobiles, the best shotguns, and the
most accurate target revolvers. Well crafted firearms, when properly cared for, will last and can be
enjoyed by generations.
188
Figure 244- Shows a match tuned Colt Python set up in a Ransom Master Series Machine Rest with I
frame grip inserts. The optional base shown provides windage adjustment. -Machine rest photo courtesy
Ransom International Corp.
Set sights on the vertical centreline of the target and at the 6 o'clock hold position. Minimum test firing
distance is 50 feet. The 6x3 test, discussed earlier, uses standard factory, or service ammunition. The 6x6
match accuracy test uses match grade wadcutter loads.
Six rounds are fired through each chamber. The cylinder is marked with a white grease pencil, and that
chamber is always fired first. Uniformity (or repeatability) is the rule: ammunition must be from the same
lot so that all bullets, cases, powder, primers and shell crimp are the same.
Check all six targets. Points of impact should be well grouped, similar, and with no more variation than
would be standardly produced by the ammunition used. Problems having to do with the sights, or a
specific chamber or ratchet lug, etc., are easily detected. Also see figures 178 and 241.
PARTS
190
DIAGRAMS
The following intermediate and late Colt D, E, and I model parts diagrams were used in the author's
original manuals to provide a quick and easy reference at the bench. In keeping with the original shop
manuals, we have included the same parts diagrams here.
These drawings provide typical examples of model types, but may not exactly depict all features of a
specific variation at the bench. Individual parts drawings do not exist for every sub-type and model
variation. This is particularly true where barrel and cylinder variations are concerned.
At the back of this section, for reference, we have included model specifications and parts illustrations on
many of the early style Colt small and medium frame double action revolvers (pre-D, E, and I model
designations). These drawings show the basic similarities between early, intermediate, and late models.
Although this shop manual does not cover Colt's large frame, double action revolvers, parts illustrations
and specifications for the New Service Model (the M1917 U.S. Army Model is basically the same) are
included to show the close design similarity between large frame and pre-D, E, and I designation small
and medium frame revolvers.
191
Parts Description
1. Barrel
2. Cylinder Bolt
3. Bolt pivot Screw
4. Bolt Spring
5. Crane
6. Crane Bushing
7. Crane Lock Detent Plunger
8. Crane Lock Screw
9. Crane Lock Spring
10. Cylinder Assy.
11. Ejector Rod
12. Ejector Rod Head
13. Ejector Spring
14. Firing Pin
15. Firing Pin Spring
16. Firing Pin Stop
17. Front Sight Blade
18. Front Sight Pin
19. Frame
20. Hammer Assembly
21. Hammer Pin
22. Hammer Stirrup
23. Strut Pin
24. Hammer Strut
25. Hammer Strut Pin
26. Hammer Strut Spring
27. Hand
28. Latch
29. Latch Pin

30. Latch Spring
31. Latch Spring Guide
32. Mainspring
33. Ratchet
34. Rear Sight Blade
35. Rear Sight Det. Ball
36. Rear Sight Det. Spring
37. Rear Sight Elev. Screw
38. Rear Sight Elev. Screw Pin
39. Rear Sight Leaf
40. Rear Sight Leaf Elev. Spr.
41. Rear Sight Leaf Pin
42. Rear Sight Windage Screw
43. Rear Sight Windage Spring
44. Rebound Lever
45. Rebound Lever Pivot Pin
46. Safety (Upper)
47. Safety Lever
48. Sideplate
49. Sideplate Screw (Front)
50. Sideplate Screw (Target)
51 & 52. Stock Assy.
53. Stock Pin
54. Stock Screw (also Target)
55. Stock Screw Nut
56. Trigger
57. Trigger Pin
Python and
Police Python
.357 Magnum & .38 Special
192
Trooper
(Original Model)
.357 Magnum & .38 Special
193
.357 Magnum Model

.357 Magnum
194
Officer's Model Match

.38 Special & .22 L.R.
195
Official Police and

WW II Commando Model
196
Diamondback
197
Police Positive Special

.38 Special & .22? L.R.
198
Detective Special,
Agent
199
Cobra
Viper
.38 Special
200
201
The Colt Elliason adjustable rear sight was designed like other match competition type sights, so that the
entire back of the sight is an enlarged rear blade. The blade is canted slightly rearward to shadow and
darken when held on target. The entire rear blade moves for windage adjustment. Point of bullet impact is
moved in the same direction.
At this time, aside from the elevation screw and spring, given above, no other Elliason sight part numbers
are listed, or are available for field replacement.
The Elliason rear blade, windage screw, and windage screw nut are permanently staked after factory
assembly. For this reason, if rear blade or internal sight repair work becomes necessary, the sight must be
shipped to factory service Tor inspection and repair.
202
FACTORY DISCONTINUED PARTS SECTION

With all model variations considered, I would estimate that there are probably more than a million early
and intermediate Colt double action revolvers either still in service or being kept in drawers. Based on
production numbers, the majority of these revolvers will be pre-D and E designation small and medium
frames, as well as large frame New Service Models.
With these numbers in mind, we have included the following discontinued parts section and early
specification sheets for the purpose of model/type identification- and, as well, to advise owners,
collectors, and revolversmiths of an excellent source for Colt factory discontinued parts for many of these
models.
When parts are needed for early and intermediate Colt double action revolvers, check with Gun Parts
Corporation, West Hurley, New York. While GPC is probably the world's largest supplier of discontinued
parts, they tell us that inventories change, and that all parts may not be available at a given time.
Early and Intermediate Colt Double Action Revolvers:
Pocket Positive
Police Positive
Police Positive Special
Banker's Special
Detective Special, Early
Agent, Early
Commando, WWII Model
Army Special
Camp Perry Model
Officer's Model
Official Police, Early
New Service
New Service, Target
M1917, U.S. Army, etc.
204
205
Figure Q- The above page is reprinted from an early Colt Parts Catalogue, circa 1920, and features rare
phantom views of Colts' long discontinued M1917 large frame revolver and 1903 Hammerless Automatic
Pistol. The M1917 and New Service model revolvers are much like larger editions of medium frame
Army Special or Official Police revolvers. -Courtesy Colt Firearms
Figure R- Specification from early Colt Catalog. Courtesy Colt Firearms
206
Figure S- Specification from early Colt Catalog. Courtesy Colt Firearms
207
208
Figure T- Specification from early Colt Catalog. Courtesy Colt Firearms
209
Figure U- Specification from early Colt Catalog. Courtesy Colt Firearms
210
Figure V- Specification from early Colt Catalog. Courtesy Colt Firearms
211
212
Figure W- Specification from early Colt Catalog. Courtesy Colt Firearms
213
Figure X- Specification from early Colt Catalog. Courtesy Colt Firearms
214
Figure Y- Specification from early Colt Catalog. Courtesy Colt Firearms
215
216
Figure Z- Specification from early Colt Catalog. Courtesy Colt Firearms
217
Figure AA- Specification from early Colt Catalog. Courtesy Colt Firearms
218
Figure BB- Specification from early Colt Catalog. Courtesy Colt Firearms
219
220
221
222
-Drawings,. Courtesy Colt Firearms
223
Colt Firearms
-A Heritage of Fine Craftsmanship
-Colt Python product photo courtesy Colt Industries, Firearms Division

The Colt logo is a registered trademark of Colt Firearms
224

Colt Revolvers Workshop Manual Vol 1 - Jerry Kuhnhausen PDF

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Colt Revolvers Workshop Manual Vol 1 - Jerry Kuhnhausen PDF

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Acknowledgements

-Large frame M1917 U.S. Army, .45 ACP

-Colt Python product photo courtesy Colt Industries, Firearms Division

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

Ammunition Chart for Colt Arms

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

How Colt Fire Arms are Made

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

Colt's Police Python

Model 1-3 specifications

Adjustable rear sight.

Fast-cocking wide-spur, Checkered walnut, square butt,

VELOCITY- FEET PER

Soft Point 1550

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

The real value of cut-away revolvers in all aspects of revolver

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

REALLY NOW, WERE YOU GOING TO SKIP THIS PAGE?

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

Move cylinder latch- sticky? open- close OK?

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

CYCLE EJECTOR ROD

Figure 1- The illustration shows the cylinder open- and the

Figure 2- Shows a Colt target style revolver grip. The stock

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

Dress screwdriver blade edges

Figure 3- Shows a screwdriver tip being hollow ground to

Frozen Grip Screws

Carefully centre punch and drill

Figure 4- Shows the right grip being removed by correctly

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

Adjust screwdriver blade grind to

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

Remove Crane Lock Screw [Late

Figure 7- Shows a late style crane lock screw installed in a late

Figure 8- Illustration shows a bench and shop levelling support

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

Figure 9- Shows a frame set up on a drill press table for stuck

Figure 10- Shows a bench set-up for frozen screw removal,

For sideplates and old style crane

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

Remove Crane and Cylinder

After the crane lock screw and

Figure 11- Shows a Colt Diamondback cylinder and crane

Figure 12- Shows an early Colt Official Police model cylinder

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

Figure 13- Shows an I frame revolver ready for sideplate screw

Grind screwdrivers to fit before

About Sideplate Removal

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

After the screws have been taken

Figure 15- Shows thumb retaining both latch and sideplate,

About Early & Intermediate D, E,

Figure 16- Shows a frame being held in the "latch retained"

The Colt DA Revolvers, Section I

Figure 17- Shows a late type E/I mainspring being slipped