ast and Altered States, Ofdinary MiraclesAFRICA Altered States, Ordinary Miracles Richard Dowden PUBLICAFFAIRS New York‘To Penny who let me go and weleamed me home and Isabella and Sophie who endured my tong absences. pyright © 2009 by Richard Dowden. Foreword copyright © 2009 by Chinta Achebe. Hardcover first published in 2008 in Great Britain by Portobello Books, Published in 2009 in the United States by PublicAffairs™, a member of the Perseus Books Group. Paperback first published in 2010 by Publica All rights reserved, Printed in the United States of America, No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. For information, address Public {Tairs, 250 West 57th Street, Suite 1321, New York, NY 10107. Publica fairs books are available at special di purchases in the U.S. by corporations, institutions, and ather organizations, For more information, please contact the fat the Perseus Books Group, ite 200, Philadelphia, PA 19103, call (800) 810-4145 x5000, oF email special. markets@perseusbooks.com, ounts for bulk ‘Text designed and Typeset in Galliard by Avon DataSet Ltd, Bidiford on Avon, Warwickshire Library of Congeess Preassigned Control Number: 2008940270 Hardcover ISBN 978-1-58648-753-9 Paperback ISBN 978-1-58648-81 6-1 10987654321Contents Map Acknowledgements Foreword by Chinua Achebe 1 Africa is a night flight away: Images and realities 2 Aftica is different: Uganda I 3. How ir all went wrong: Uganda IL 4. The end of colonialism: New states, old societies 5 Amazing, but is it Africa? Somalia 6 Forward to the past: Zimbabwe 7 Breaking apart: Sudan 8 A tick bigger than the dog: Angola 9 Missing, the story and the sequel: Burundi and Rwanda 10. God, trust and trade: Senegal 11 Dancers and the leopard men: Sierra Leone 12 The positive positive women: AIDS in Aftica 13. Copying King Leopold; Congo 14. Nor just another country: South Africa 15 Meat and mor 16 Look out world: 17 New colonists or old fri Eating in Kenya igeria is? Asia in Africa 18 Phones, Asians and the professionals: The new Africa Epilogue Further Reading Index vi-ix xi xiii i. 38 Sl 90 127 158 199 223 255 284 321 353 380 415 439 484 509 543 551 554ALGERIA SAHARA MAURITANIA MALI Tombouctou (Timbuktu) Buagadoug. BURKINA FASO ‘Ssakoro Nidjamena, Kano NIGERIA D'IVOIRE Yamoussoukro Abidjan: ATLANTIC OCEANDESERT Massawa sAasinara CHAD ‘= Addis Ababa ETHIOPIA Pept sala Equator REPU 4 NC BS INDIAN TANZANIA Kanangas edamae OCEAN ‘bar es Salaam Lucapal OLAConakry’ Freetown NIGERIA COTE at D'IVOIRE 5 Ab nani Yamousspukro 5 ‘Abigan Lagos Harcourt ‘Malabo, Gulf of Guines EQUATORIAL Cumen Equator ATLANTIC OCEAN Windhoek «Equator fagankusu a, Kisangan! ewocaric Fy wa AEFUBLIC OF CONGO vo coma to (aire) Bujumbs ome aN OCEAN bar es Salaam & comers, << Nacala MADAGASCAR IMBABWE 5, Beira Blawave: A (Tshwane) Pretoria faputo Johannesburge waz Axo SOUTH AFRICA Durban cose, Cape Town Port ElizabethAcknowledgements y life in Africa began with the Lule family in Uganda and they M:: always made me welcome in Kampala, particularly Michael Nsereko — Webale » Afri . L would also like to thank the many s, from drivers and market women to professors and presi- dents, who helped me to understand why Africa is the way it is. Without their patience and many kindnesses, this book would not have been possible. 1am deeply indebted to the late Anthony Sampson who believed T could write this book and told me to get on with it. A particular thank you to fellow journalists Koert Lindyer, my travelling, com- panion for many years, as well as Karl Maier, Michacl Holman, Michela Wron: there in bad places at bad times and still — in varying degrees — love Peter Sharp and William Wallis, who were also and believe in Africa, Stephen Ellis sh ed his striking insights into the continent and refined the manuscript. This book covers many years of travelling in Africa as a journal- ist so I would like to thank those who helped me go there: Ivan Barnes at The Times, Andreas Whittam-Smith, Stephen Glover and especially the late Nick Ashford at the Independent, and Billxii Acknowledgements Emmott at The Econonrist. Thanks too to all at the Royal African Society for their patience as I finished the manuscript. ‘The following also contributed, wittingly or ur tingly, to its creation: Peter Adwok, Bernard Awazi, Nickson Bahati, Zainab Bangura, John Battersby, Maria Burnett, Cecil Cameron, Chukwu Emeka Chikezie, Abdi Dahir, Alex de Waal, Susana Edjang, Hona Eveleens, Chris and Rhoda Gibbons, John Githongo, Robin Gorna, William Gumede, Heidi Holland, Jocl Kibazo, Donu Kogbara, Matthew Kukah, Daniel Large, Margaret Lindyer, Ali Mazrui, Smangaliso Mhkatshwa, Miles Morland, Nkosana Moyo, Ben Okti, Dapo Oyewole, Trevor Page, Tajudeen Abdul Raheem, Adam Roberts, k Smith, Henry Toulmin, Pat Uromi and Alan Andrew Rugasira, Betty Senoga, Tim Sheehy, Patri Ssemanda, Alfred Taban, Camilla Whiteside. ‘Thanks also to my editor at Portobello, Philip Gwyn Jones, and to Jonny Geller and Gordon Wise at Curtis Brown.Foreword frica is a vast continent, a continent of people, and not a place of exotica, ar a destination for tourists. In Africas Altered States, Ordinary Miracles, it is clear that Richard Dowden under- stands this, and one could not ask for a more qualified author to explore Africa’s complexity, [t helps a great deal that he has travelled extensively in Africa, his work having taken him to nearly every African nation, and that throughout his distinguished career he has committed himself to Africa’s advancement as teacher, journalist and executive of the Royal Africa Society in London Affica, as most people are aware, has endured a tortured history, and continues to persevere under the burden of political instability and religious, social, racial and ethnic strife. Many chroniclers of the African condition often find Aftica overwhelming. As R. K. Naravan ones said about new stories: ‘there are often too many storics out there to be told.” The writer is often faced with two choices: turn away from the reality of Aftica’s intimidating, complexity, or conquer the mystery of Africa by recognizing the humanity of African people. © choice. In Afvica: Altered States, Ordinary Miracles, he tackles Africa’s problems without fear, Richard Dowden makes the bra sentimentality or condescension, The work benefits from Dowden’sxiv Foreword deep knowledge of African history, and his writing is often most powerful when he delves into Africa’s struggle with corruption, poor leadership, poverty and disease. The treatment of the impact of colonialization on Africa is particularly novel, and the analysis of the continued foreign apprehension about Africa is inspiring, His dissee- tion of familiar themes such as the collapse ef nation states like Nigeria, the role of post-colonial political ineptitude and oppression, particularly under tyrannical regimes, is presented with a fresh per- spective. Before [ am accused of preseribing a way in which a writer should write, let me say that I do think decency and civilization would insist that the writer take sides with the powerless. Clearly, there’s no moral obligation to write in any particular way. Bur there is a moral obliga- tion, I think, not to ally oneself with power against the powerless. [ think an artist, in my definition of thar word, would not be someon! who takes sides with the emperor against his powerless subjects. The triumph of the written word is often attained when the writer achieves union and trust with the reader who then becomes ready to be drawn deep into unfamiliar territory, walking in bor- rewed literary shoes so to speak, towards a deeper understanding of foreign peoples, cultures and situations, In this and so many other respects, Richard Dowden’s Africa: Altered Stare, Ordinary Miracles, succeeds marvellously, and is a welcome addition to the growing library of serious critical analysis of Aftica Chinua Achebe Annandale-on-Hudson, New York June 2008Africa is a night flight away Images and realities have watched the sun set, shrunken and mean, over a cold, drab London street and steod outside a mud hut next morning on a Kenyan hillside and seen it rise in glory over the Bast African plains. Af is clase Few go there. Africa has a reputation: poverty, disease, war. But when outsiders do go they are often surprised by Aftica’s welcome, ed for entranced rather than frightened, Visitors are welcomed and c: in Africa. If you go you will find most Africans friendly, gentle and infinitely polite. You will frequently be humbled by African generosity. Africans have in abundance what we call social skills. These are not skills that are formally taught or learned. There is no click-on have-a- nice-day smile in Africa. Africans meet, greet and talk, look you in the eye and empathize, hold hands and embrace, share and accept from others without twitchy self-consciousness. All these things are as nat- ural as music in Africa, Westerners arriving in Africa for the first time are always struck by its beauty and size — even the sky seems higher, And they often find themselves suddenly cracked open. They lose inhibitions, feel more alive, more themselves, and they begin to understand why, until then, they have only half lived, In Africa the essentials of existence —20 Africa isa might flight away light, carth, water, food, birth, family, love, sickness, death — a more immediate, more intense. Visitors suddenly realize what li 5 8 for. To risk a huge generalization: amid our wastefial wealth and time-pressed s we have lost human values that still abound in Africa, Back at home in London I sometimes ask visiting Africans what strikes them most about the way Londoners live. Suni Umar, a jour- nalist from Sokoto in northern Nige! gives a typical answer: ‘People walk so fast. And they do not talk to cach other. Even first thing in the morning they do nor greet cach other, I came to the office in London and the people working there did not even greet me or cach other.’ And the most puzzling thing? ‘1 was lest and [ walked up toa man and asked the way, He did not reply, He did not even look at me. He just walked away. Like that.” When Suni goes home to Nigeria ad tells that tale they will not believe him, There they know that some Europeans are not kind to Africans, but to be so trivially inhuman to each other is shocking. Even in London or New York or Paris, Africans do not easily lose the habit of catching your eye as you pass. Raise an eyebrow in greeting and a flicker of a smile starts in their eyes. A small thing? No. It is the prize that Africa offers the rest of the world: humanity This is not what most outsiders associate with Africa, The i age Africa conjures up in most people’s minds is the Dark Continent, the heart of darkness, a place of horrific savagery: inhumanity. You can find that in Africa too, Hell has scized parts of the continent in recent times. In the mid 1990s thirty-one out of Africa’s fifty-three countries were suffering, civil war or serious civil disturbance. Hundreds of thousands of people died, not from bullets, but from hunger, bad water and disease. In ch wars the armies, be they government or rebels, live by looting. They target civilians and vil- lages, The direct combat casualty rate is often low; the incidentalImages and Realities 3 death and destruction rate horrifically high. Only a tiny number of been internal — n differ- these wars have been between count most have 8 battles for power and wealth within states, usually betw ent ethnic groups. These wars diminished in number after the turn of the millenni- um, but their chief cause = the lack of a comman nationhood = remains, Affica’s nation states were formed by foreigners, lines drawn by Europeans on maps of places they had often never been to. They carved out territor h several ethnic groups. Some, like Nigeria and Congo, harness to- s, cut up kingdoms and societies of which they d little idea. All but two of Africa’s concocted countries combine gether hundreds of different societies with their own Jaws and languages. They lack what we take for granted: a common concep- tion of nationhood. Ber th the surface of Africa’s weak nation states lic old cultures, old societi sand communities and a deep sense of spiritual power. ‘This is not a residual superstition, the vestige of religion. Nor is it a neurosis induced by insecurity or poverty, The spirit world, Muslim, Christian or traditional, lies at the heart of many African societies, a core belief in the power of spirits that can be harnessed by mediums. This beli f partly explains Africans’ lack of political or social agency. It can undermine personal responsibility and weaken communal sol- idarity. At worst it can inspire the most horrific brutalities — though not on the scale of mass murder inspired by fascism, Communism and nationalism in twenticth-ccntury Europe. But such beliefs also provide immensely powerful defences against despair and hopelessness. Amid Aftica’s wars and man-made famines and plagues, I have found people getting on with life, rising gloriously above conditions that would break most of us. In Africa even in the worst of times you do not hear the tones of doom and despair that characterize some Western media reports on the state of4 Africa isa night flight away Africa. Africa always has hope. I find more hopelessness in Highbury where I live in north London than in the whole of Afri a ‘I's the fiult of the media,’ says the young PR man. ‘The image they give of Africa is just wars and famine and disease. We ean change that. What Africa needs are success stories. We are going to re-brand Africa.” A smartly uniformed waiter - a Ghanaian from his accent - wheels the breakfast trolley to our table and offers us paw paw, mango, pineapple and other African fruits. And of course that African drink: coffee. Our tip for the waiter for bringing us that cof: fee pot will be more than a week's income for the family in Africa a smart London who grew the coffee. We are having breakfast i hotel with starched white tablecloths and heavy silver cutlery. So that’s the way to change the world, If you don’t like one image, find another one, Changing reality is as easy as flicking channels on TY. ‘The recent campaign to change Africa’s image accuses the media of creating, a false impression of Africa’s reality. Some even suggest there is a conspiracy against the continent by foreign journalists. Say ‘Africa’ to people who have never been there and they will describe a sick and starving child and men with guns, The news of Africa has been almost exclusively about poverty, wars and death. Would it be better if journalists did not cover the bad news out of Africa? As a reporter on The Times in 1984 1 received a call from a contact at Oxfam who warned me that a huge famine was building in Ethiopia. I asked the editor, Charles Douglas-Home, if] could go. ‘IT don’t think people want to read about starving Africans,’ he drawled, ‘We saw quite cnough of that in Biafra,’ Later that year The Times was forced vo scramble another reporter to Ethiopia to catch up with what was one of the biggest stories of the decade. At that moment I vowed to try to get the reality of Africa’s wars and faminesImages and Realities 5 covered in the press as well as they would be if they happened in any other part of the world. Now, more than twenty years on, [ find myself accused of giving ‘Did 1 ange the reality — not Aftica a bad image. My first reaction as a journalist is to sa make this up?” My second reaction is to say: *Ch ce is that it feeds on news of wars and the image.’ The media’s def disasters. The ordinary gets ignored in Africa as it does in Asia or South America. Normality is nice but it does not — as they say = sell newspapers. You need to go ne farther than Yugoslavia to see the truth of this, We all know about Bosnia, Croatia, Serbia and Kosove because they were engulfed by war. Bur how many people know about Slovenia? That is the one bit of former Yugoslavia that broke ts no media away, stayed peaceful and became very successful. So it g attention It is the same with most of Africa, Not all Africans are fighting or starving. Millions of Africans have never known hunger or war and lead ordinary peaceful lives. But that is not news. Editors want breaking news but have little interest in explanations, let alone explanations from an African perspective. Journalists are sent to get ‘the story” — or not, if the editor is like Douglas- Home. And even if they do go, editors and journalists do not dig into the complexities of Africa, ‘Keep it simple’ is the message. All the rich history, culture nissed. Few in the media have felt the and complexity of Affica is need to dig deeper into Africa. It is easier to describe it as chaos. Africa may often look like chaos and madness but there is abways a comprehensible — if complex — explai ion. A group of us, journal- ists who covered Affica full time, decided that we would ban the word chaos from our reporting and never give up the search for rational explanations for what was going on, Our watchword was, ‘If you describe it as chaos you haven’t worked hard cnough.’ That worked well enough until I teld a erian editor of our pact, ‘It6 Africa is a night flight away does not work here,” he said. ‘Nigeria is chaos. But the chaos is cre~ ated, organized by the government. Chaos allows it to stay n power.” Africa has many realities. The media image dismissed by the young PR man is not untrue, but itis only one African reality, incom- plete. Stories of war and disaster are not made up, but they are only a slice of the reality of Africa, The new realities of Africa = mobile phones in the village, Chinese suits in the market, African multi- national companies — have been ignored. The media’s it gives us only that image of the continent. We hav problem is that, by covering only disasters and wars, no others. When we sce floods causing havoe in New Orleans we do not think that all of America is permanently under water, er when we sce troaps marching in Indonesia we do not think all of Asia is at war. We know from other images we sce and stories we read that there is a functioning and thriving America and a peaceful and successful Asia. But we have no ather ideas of Affica, no sense of ordinary Aftica. Persistent images of starving children and men with guns have accumulated into our narrative of the continent: Africans are gun- toting, mindless warriors or hopeless, helpless victims who can do nothing for themselves, doomed to endless poverty, violence and hunger. Only foreign aid and foreign aid workers ean save them. The endlessly repeated images of guns, oppression, hunger and disease create the impression thar this is all that ever happens in Africa. The story of ababwe and Darfur and all their predecessors has become the story of Africa, We think all of Aftica is like that ~ always, By their nature vietims need pity, not respect or understanding, ‘They are just like us but without money,’ we are told to believe. ‘Give moncy and all will be well,” Aid and development agencies, from the smallest NGO to the World Bank and the United Nations behemoths, have little inter t in understanding African difference, hew Africa works, But aid agencies, Western celebrities, rock starsImages and Realities. 7 and politicians cannot save Africa, Only Africans can develop Affica. Outsiders can help but only if they understand it, work with it. Africa’s history and culture, Aftica’s ways, are the key ta its develop ment, but they are as little acknowledged and understood now as they were in the nineteenth century when Europe colonized the continent. Some would argue that disregard far Africa and Africa’s voice in its own development is as destructive today as territorial imperialism was 150 years ago. The policies the aid and development agencies have for Africa arc not always bad ~ they often represent the | take no account of the human reality on the ground. From the social- shest aspirations and idealism of the rest of the world — but they ist and statist models of the 1960s, to the free market ideology of the 1980s, the Washington consensus of the 1990s, and the aid-driven development of today, there has always been a missing clement: the Africans. So journalists are not the only ones to blame. ‘The aid industry too has an interest in maintaining the image of Africans as hopeless victims of endless wars and persistent famines, However well- intentioned their motives may once have been, aid agencies have helped create the single, distr ing image of Africa, They and jour nalists feed off each other, The deal, mostly unspoken but well understood, is that aid workers tell journalists where disaster is break- ing. The aid agencies provide plane tickers, a place to stay, vehicles, a driver, maybe a translator — and a story. In return the journalists give the aid agencics publicity, describing how they are saving Africans and using images of distress and helplessness to raise money. ‘This deal excludes the efforts of the local people to save themselves. It is casi and more lucrative ~ to portray them as victims depend- ent on Western charity In the early 1990s, several aid agencies appointed attractive young Women to act as press officers in disaster zones to appear on8 Africa isa might flight away TV and raise income. A decade later, they went further and invited celebrities to visit these places, bringing the media along to follow rock singers and film stars wandering through refugee camps, hug: ging starving children and pleading for more aid. Celebrities are even less well equipped than journalists to provide a coherent understand- ing of what is happening in Africa, but it worked for the aid agencies. ‘Saving Aftican babies’ is now big, business, but it has also become the entry point from which the rest of the world sees the continent. Bob Geldof first experienced Africa in Ethiopia when he bullied the world into delivering food aid to the starving. Twenty years on, he resurrected that crusade and persuaded Tony Blair to join it. Though he had paid only a fleeting official visit to the continent, Blair pro- on for Africa’, He referred to it as a ‘scar on the con- claimed a ‘pa science of the world’, deeply offending many Afticans. His messianic mission to save Africa Was reminiscent of the nineteenth-century missionary zeal. That set teeth on edge. It sounded like saving, Africa from the Afticans. Life - as John Lennon sang - is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans, Travelling around Africa since the carly 1970s I began to glimpse deeper truths abont the continent, caught out of the corner of my eye as T went in search of the big storics, History books will tell you about momentous events and complex politics. Memoirs and travel books give you the feel of a place from personal experiences. In this book 1 have tried to com- bine the broad history with the local and personal, telling stories of incidents, actions, characters that hopefully gi : something of the feel of Africa, demonstrate its huge diversity of peoples and places, and go some way to illuminating why Africa is the way it is, both positive and negative nt and themselve: L hope Africans will recognize their contin in these pages, but Iw ¢ chiefly for outsiders, those who have not beenImages and Realities 9 to Africa but would like to know more about it. The best way to find out is to go, not as a tourist ina bubble of Western luxury and safety, bur as a traveller to meet people and ngage with them. It is easily done. But beware. Africa can be addictive. Les fous @PAfrigue, the French call them, those who become mad about Aftica This is a book about Africa south of the Sahara, | have not written about North Africa: Islamic, Arab-influenced and bordering, the Mediterrancan, The history and culture of the countries of the Maghreb have only tenuous connections with the rest of the eonti- nent. The Mediterranean linked North Africa with Europe, the Sahara desert blocked the route south to the rest of Africa, Few North Aff with Afiiea’s islands and archipelagos, seven of which are independ- as African. Nor does this book deal ent countries, including Madagascar — two and a half times the size of the United Kingdom and a world apart with its own unique char- acter. While influenced by Africa and counted as part of the African region, these islands too are different his is not to imply that Africa south of the Sahara is all the same, On the contrary, it is the most diverse zone of planet Earth. From the rainless deserts of Namibia to the diminishing snows of Kilimanjaro, from the Sahelian scrublands to the lush trepical forests of the Congo basin, Africa has an extraordinary range of eli mates, flora and fauna. And it is among African peoples that the greatest diversity occurs, Africa has more than 2000 languages and cultures and, despite the fact that we all share a single African woman as the mother of the human race, there is more human genctic diversity in Africa than in the rest ef the human race combined. Africa is often spoken of as if it were one small uniform country. Yet in comparison, Europe is homogenous, America monotonous.10) Africa is a night flight away Who would dare make generalizations about Asia based on Bangladesh? Or about Europe exists as a piece of earth defined by the oceans, a mere shape on a map whose peoples and cultures have as much in common with other parts of the world as they do with each other, Even if you divide Africa in thre: Africa north of the Sahara, South Africa and its orbit, and the zone in between, there are few common factors within these regions. What is Africa then? Not even the distinctive pale terracotta soil of Africa covers the whole continent. The lean brown African dog is common but not ubiquitous. Music? Ma ybe. I have yet to find an African community — or an Aftican — which does not celebrate with music, But music is universal and African music varics widely, Africa’s social systems, beliefs and culture are as diverse as its peoples and as disparate as its climates. West A\ East Africa ‘a feels quite different from and even within West Africa you could never mistake Nigeria for Senegal. And neither of them seems on the same planet as Mali break, From every generalization y Every time you say ‘Africa is. . .? the wards crumble and ‘ou must exclude at least five coun- tries, And just as you think you have nailed down a certainty, a defin- ing characteristic, you find the opposite is truc in other places. Africa is full of surprises.Africa is different Uganda I I is hard to remember what images of Africa 1 grew up with, In the early 1950s my grandfather went off to Ghana, then called the Gold Coast. We were told he had gone to ‘count the natives’, He had worked in the Births, Deaths and Marriages office at Somerset House in London for most of his life and came out of retirement in his late sixties to do something different. He returned a year later a rich brown colour and brought back beautifull silver spoons with an emblem of an elephant and a palm tree. He told tales of camping out in the bush and being stoned by an angry crowd. Later I learned that he had insisted on going third class in a steamer, sleeping in a ham- mock in a communal cabin, and had been carried ashore on an African’s back at Accra. At school aged six I remember a nun from Congo. She had a lovely smiling face and smelt wonderful but she could be very severe. I loved her and feared her in equal measure. k brown radio told of murder and some horror called Mau Mau in n the early 1960s, I heard tales of mayhem and massacre in the Congo. Along with Throughout the late 1950s the solemn BBC news from our enya’ — as it Was pronounced then, Later, Korea, Malaya and Cyprus, Africa seemed distant and dangerous. Soon afterwards a wave of colonial exiles invaded Worcester,12. Africa is differcat where my family lived. Tanned, smart and very particular about social etiquette, they had been district officers and policemen in Keny: Uganda or Ghana. The men wore blazers with gold buttons, club ties and moustaches and drawled in accents of superiority, The women wore flowery cotton dresses and heavy perfumes and were haughty and complaining, ‘They all whinged endlessly and pompously about the ‘natives’ or ‘the Aftican’. Over and over again I heard: ‘They just aren’t ready for independence,” usual followed by tales of bloody revolution, Communist take-over and servants stealing the sugar, But these pompous, frightened people also exuded a huge sense of sadness and Loss. As their skins paled in the chilly Worcestershire climate, their souls burned with a yearning for Africa, their lost Eden. Their arrival coincided with my own teenage breakout from these domineering old bores and I naturally identified with anyone also oppressed by them, They were the generation who had won th Second World War and they behaved as though they ran the world. In a muddled sort of way | identified my search for personal teenage freedom with the ‘FreeeeeDOM" all of the African crowds I heard on the radio news. These colonial administrators had been defeared by Africa, and to my mind that made Africa powerful and alarming. After the Labour victory in the 1964 General Election, these old colonials were as terrified by the prospect of being ruled by social- ists as thi as should rule in Africa. y had been by the idea that Afri Many went back to Africa, but to Rhodesia, as Zimbabwe then was, or to South Africa, where the natives were still kept in their proper led yone else who went to university in 1968, I place and civilization pre Like almast ever became further radicalized by the Vietnam War but I felt too self conscious to go on marches and wave banners. Nor could I bring myself to believe demonstrating would make a difference. [ wanted to do something real about poverty and suffering. I believed thatUganda 13 to change the world you had to go there, live with the poorest and change th lives. But after three years of learning about European history, what did I know that could possibly be of use ta Aftica? The only thing that my education qualified me for was passing it on: teaching. Government-run urban schools were too puch part of the ‘system? for me and J imagined that out in the rural areas I would find the ‘real’ Africa. I was looking for freedom and authenticity. In London I met a group of White Fathers, Catholic priests whe work in Africa, They were cheerful, kindly people, but with a radical streak. I felt inspired by their love of Africa and their life-long commitment to it. Through them I found a place as a teacher in a village schoo! in Uganda. ] arrived in Aftica on 18 May 1971. My new home was a tiny house on the edge of a hill called Kabuwoko in south-west Uganda. From my window I could see Lake Victoria shining, in the distance across rolling green hills of banana plantations and forests. This part of Uganda is like English downland, only bigger and always green. It has two rainy seasons, but the huge lake creates the weather here and brings rain all year round. In the September rainy season. massive ‘Then the dark stormy mass suddenly rushes inland, flinging lightning around meringue-puff clouds bubble up from the glistening wat the sky and burying the hills and valleys in thunder and rain, But within an hour or two all is ch ar and still again and the warm sun returns. You never mind get g wet in Uganda. Unlike English downland, the bottoms of the valleys are swamps, and so people live on the lower slopes. They don’t live together com- munally in villages but dotted around on smallholdings. Homes are rectangular mud huts with thatch or = in richer houscholds — corru> gated iron roofs, each set in its awn grove of bananas, with coffee plantations and a kitchen garden. The ground around cach hut is bare, swept meticulously clean every day, Approach a home through14 Africa is differcat the grove of bananas and coffee and you drown in the luscious per- fume of col flowers, wood smoke and the dull scent of steaming bananas. You do not walk up and knock at the door. You stand a few yards away on the swept carth and call out a greeting, There is always someone to welcome you ‘Eradde?* the Baganda say. ([t rhymes with day.) ‘Is the lake cal ‘Eradde — The lake is calm.” Greeting, in Luganda, a Ugandan language, is an age-old pattern of question and answer, of iteration and reiteration, Irs rhythms establish relationship and order and peace, the replies repeating the questions in different tones: “Bwera?’ — Is there plenty of millet? *Bwera’ — There is millet. eful wher ‘Mirembe?* Is it pea ou are coming from? ‘Mirembe? = It is peaceful. “Balamu?’ - Are your people in good health? ‘Balamu’ - Th in good health. ‘Kulika ekkubo’ — Thank you for coming. ‘Awo’ —[ have made it. ‘Wasnze otyanno’ — Good morning, ‘Musula mutya?? — How are you? ‘Bulungi. Ggwe osula otya?”— I’m OK, and you? ~ ‘Bul Ev ngi.? if you are at death’s door the replies are the same. Bad news onl emerges later, discreetly, in conversation, You do not greet peo- ple with anything except good news Uganda has the perfect climate, and since it is a microclimate cre- ated b The Baganda have never known anything else y the lake, it is not yet clear how global warming will affect it. nd, whatever else is going on beneath the surface, they live as iflife is always good. Being with people, talking, making others laugh arc what matter. Their lan- guage, Luganda, sounds sweet and subtle, its rhythms punctuated by cooing and hums. An carly British visitor, keen to bring the Christian virtues of progress, civiliz zation and hard work to the Baganda,Uganda 15 protested that they had little need to work since nature provided food with minimum human effort, They spent their days, he com- plained, drinking beer, dancing and gossiping. This pious visitor was infuriated that when God had cast Adam and Eve out of the Garden of Eden, he had somehow allowed this charming but good-for-noth- ing people to remain, Meanwhile his Chosen People, obviously the g, God-fea a wretched faraway island to suffer the miseries of British weather. hardworl ring, Protestant English, had been dispersed to us — and irritating. Mle: are left for herds of long-horned Ankole cattle — direct descendants je the people live in ve s, the tops of the steep, grassy hills of those great beasts you sce in comb paintings from carlicst times in Egypt. An attendant flock of pure white egrets follows the cows, perching, on their backs or darting, around their hooves, stabbing at ticks and insects, When I a ved the hill also hosted a pair of crested rr cranes — the country’s national symbol — and a hammerkop searched for frogs in the pond that formed near the house in the rainy season, Traditionally the hillrops, close to the sky, were left to the spirits, Near my house was a strange lump of rock the size of a tall bar stool protruding from the ground like a menhir. It was called the Nkokonjero, the White Cock. The students told me that a young, giel was swallowed up by it when she was going to her wedding, She was still inside it and no-one should go near it as the rock might be hun- gry for more victims. I used to sit on it, but I never found out whether I, as a forcigner, was regarded as immune from the local spirits or whether they thought I was very stupid but very lucky. F y IB y stup Y y At Kabuwoko, as elsewhere in Uganda, the Christian missionaries set their churches on hills, perhaps to colonize the citadcls of the spirits as firmly as their political counterparts had taken over the land. ‘They buile a great barn in pale red brick with gothic touches her there and a bell tower at the eastern end, It made the hill hab16 Africa is differcat by providing water, channelled offits great corrugated iron roof into huge tanks, Without them it was a long steep climb down to a spring in the vall The missionaries also planted the hill with flowering trees and lawns, built a clinic and school blocks and levelled a football pitel, In color | times the Churches and their surrounding parishes became powerfull centres, political and social as well as religious. When the European missionaries handed over to African priests and nuns that rele continued. All over Africa the parish today means schools, health clinies, workshops and an indigenous postal service. In most of Africa the Churches have delivered more real development to people than all the governments, the World Bank and aid agencies combined. Affica’s networks of priests, nuns and Church workers are one of Affica’s more effective organizations. When states like Congo, Gb nd Uganda itself collapsed, the self na, Angola, Mozambique a sufficient parishes used their moral authority to provide protection. Like the monasteries in Europe during the Dark Ages, they kept civ- ilization going, But the missionaries not only imported a new religion, educa- tion, Western medicine and football. They also brought their own insane history to Africa and to Kabuwoko, The Catholics took one end of the hill, the Anglicans the other, In 1911, Catholics and Protestants fought a terrible battle on the ridge in the middle. Fifty years later at independence this religious conflict had been reduced to a ficree annual football match between the rival schools and a few weekend scuffles between pupils in the trading centre at the bottom of the hill, But there is still more than a whiff of Northern Ireland’s religious divisions in Ugandan politics. I shared the house for a while with another British teacher and a nephew of the parish priest, Henry Ssemanda, Most whites in Uganda, teachers in state schools, doctors and aid workers, kept theirUganda 17 distance from Africans. They showed no inclination to challenge their position n society and live like the people. Many distrusted Af ans deeply. I could not work out whether this position was accorded out of politeness or inherited or demanded by most whites. I decided to try to break down the barrier. My diary from my first months in Africa shows an obsessive campaign to join African society, become part of Africa. ‘Everyone seems to have accepted the prison the Africans have made for the wazungu (white people) here and everyone is continu- ally playing to an Affican audience,’ I wrote after one month, I certainly intend to test the walls of the prison to check for myself if they are solid bur it is so hard to confront Africans without insulting, them or losing face and thercfore their respect,” When I c: and prosperity was reaching a dizzy climax. The students at the an dream of a future of wealth me to Uganda the Affi school were mostly the children of subsistence farmers, desperately — too desperately — keen to get education certificates. Coffee growing gave their families enough to provide the £15 a term school fees for one or two children, The size of the school roll varied accordii is to the coffee harvest, Many could not come until the crop was paid for and the school fees settled, Boys were in the majority as they pro- vided a better return on investment in education than girls, Ages varied from about twelve to pwenty-two in four forms which occu- pied the five rooms of a single long block. Each had a blackboard, desks and chairs, but there were almost no books or other teaching, equipment, Some of the students walked five miles to school every morning, five miles back in the evening, and not all could afford ean- dies or an oi] lamp to study by at night. The students had a terrifying misconception of what the school was for. They came from families who grew what they ate and ate what the grew. Chickens scratched around outside the house and a s. Th cow might be tethered under the tr only source of inca ce18 Africa is differcat —unless they worked for cach other or sold extra food crops — was coffee. Each shamba - piece of farmed land - had a few coffee bushes, and the harvest was sold to pay for the extras of life: sugar and salt, clothes and oil for the evening lamps. Most Ugandans never drink coffee, though some keep a tin of Nescafé for visitors. School fees, like weddings, were predictable expenses. The unpredictable and often devasta g expenses that everyone faced sooner or later were medicine and funerals. The latter were very costly. The dead are important and their spirits demand a good send-off. A big funcral can cost half a ye rs earnings. That is another ason wh HIV/AIDS has been so devastating in Africa. Families, already impoverished by the long sickness of parents in the prime of life, have been ruined by the cost of funerals. The Churches in Uganda new urge families not to spend too much on them But that was all in the future in 1971, The coffe price was good and the new hard-top road from Kampala had opened up the area. ‘There was poverty but there were also possibilities for anyone who worked hard, To me, life here seemed like rural heaven, But my stu- dents disagreed. They called the village ‘primitive’, ‘uncivilized’, Was that their own concept or had someone teld them that? And if some~ one had told them that, why did they believe it? To them, the good life ~ or high life, as they called it - was to wear a suit and tie, carry a briefcase and drive a car to an office in town. Escape. Africans dreamed of a modern Western utopia in those days. My shoeless students were going to be airline pilots, surgcons, astronauts and bishops, At the very least they would work in an office job in town. ‘They were certainly not going to learn a craft like carpentry or build- ing because that meant getting your clothes dirty. Nor could they go back home and dig the shamba. It was not a matter of escaping from the grinding boredom of peasant subsistence — compared to the lives of peasants in pre-industrial Europe, life here was far easier,Uganda 19 The students simply despised all work on the land. They wanted a city life The headmaster, Joseph Lule, could sce that most of them would never get jobs in town and would have to stay on the land. He believed that firming and growing food for the school should be a school activity. He would try to lead by example, picking up a hoe himselfand slamming it into the earth with great vigour. But even he found it very frustrating trying to get the students to do manual labour, The other teachers would quictly disassociate themselves from Mr Lule’s attempts at getting farming onto the school timetable. This was not helped by the fact that digging, was also a severe punishment. Not that it was rough working the carth with a hoe under a midday sun, It was humiliation, Digging was simply beneath their dignity as students. For them, that was precisely why they were at school: so they would never have to work with their hands. Students with pale skins and soft hands were envied by others because these were signs that they did not have to dig in the sun. bl Like everyone else, black people do turn darker in the sun and paler our of it. One very black boy called Katongole, who had no shoes, was mocked because he wi s black and poor, They called him ‘coal- man’, With extraordinary charm Katengole rolled with it. He laughed with them and was the only student who cheerfully worked the garden. ‘I am poor and black. I’m not proud of it bur that’s who Tam,’ he seemed to be saying. Most students we ¢ embarrassed by their origins. I told them I grew up on a farm, but they immediately asked if there were trac- tors there, When I admitted there were, they gave that knowing look which said: “Well, there you are then, That’s different,” I sent home for posters or pictures that showed white people digging Th ashamed of the with shovels. ‘y were met with incredulity. Many students were parents who had to work with their hands. We20° Africa is different tried to set up a meeting with them, but the parents were even more in awe of the school than their children, and few came, Oni day the father of one of the pupils arrived during the day to pay school fees for his daughter, He was without shoes and bowed and scraped and endlessly hummed and thanked and blessed. I felt furi ous with the students for despising their parents who had slaved to give them schooling, One day some students asked me how much I sent home to ny parents every month, [was then carn g £25 a month, slightly more than the African teachers in the school. Nothing, I told them. They were puzzled. ‘You are the one with a job in your family. Why don’t you help them? they asked. Smugly I pointed out that it was rather the other way round. Both my parents worked. They were sceptical about this. Later I learned from Henry Ssemanda that many thought I was lying, Others wondered darkly why, if I was from such a rich family, should [ have left home. Why was I cruel to my parents, refus- ing to help them with money? Had I done something terrible that I had to go so far from home and live in Africa? 1 decided that if my students were to believe that I was either a murderer or a missionary, it was better to be a missiona Like most outsiders arriving in Africa for the first time I was con- fused by the way people referred to their families. When a pupil wrote about his mothers and fathers, I corrected him, He promptly corrected me, pointing, out that he lived in a house with three fathers and two mothers. “Yes, but you ha only one father and one mother,’ I told him. ‘No, I have three fathers and two mothers at our havse,’ he mother’s sister and one of the replied, ‘One of my mothers is m fathers is her brother.’ In Africa any relative who looks after you as a child is a mother or a father, Even cousins several times removed are called brothers and sisters.Uganda 21 Family is central to life in Africa, but the African family is nothing like the neat nuclear family of Europe. Africans find the European family a paltry, cold affair, In Africa — the whole of Africa ~ the family extends to relations Europeans would no longer have any knowledge of, And you hold onto the family especially when they are old, Grey hairs are respected and obcyed in Africa. The eld- erly are not pushed aside as they are in Western countries. The down- side of respect for age is thar the old retain power over their families until they dic. A young individual cannot kick over the traces of tra- dition and make a fresh start The self-made man does not exist in Africa. If the motto of Europe is individualism; ‘I think therefore I am,” Africa’s would be communal- ism: ‘I relate, therefore I am.? In Zulu there is a saying: ‘One is a per- son through others,’ or, as John Mbiti, the Kenyan theologian, put it: ‘Lam because we are and, since we are, therefore | am.’ Africans know whe is family and know where they come in it, both vertically and horizontally, A man without a family is no-one. He is nothing. Families impose duties and obligations, so it is important to gather as many people to you as pessible. Extending your family is the best way, but Africans are also great joiners of brotherhoods and sororities, Clubs, freemason lodges, religious organizations, Rotary Clubs, co-operatives, political parties are all hugely popular, Yeu join vs as many societies as you can because membership of a group is alw rewarding. That extends to the fimily too. Traditionally in Europe when a daughter married and left her family, she was given a dowry a pay-off to settle her elsewhere. In Africa the money goes the other way, A suitor must pay bride price, He is not just ensuting, since she is valuable, that she will be respected and treated well, he is also bind- ing their families together. In Burope families shed people, in Africa families acquire people Perhaps this is because European socicties had too many people and220 Africa is different not enough land, whereas in Africa there was always plenty of land burt not nough people to control it, In crowded, bloody Europe people stood and fought for land. In Africa wars were fought for pil- lage: for slaves, for cattle, for control of trade. Very rarely did peop fight for a piece of land. It ws not necessary, There was always lots of space. If villagers did not like a chief they tended to move away and walk over the hill to start afresh. As personal identity could be expressed only by membership of the group, so ownership of land was always communal, not individual, Several different people, farm- ers d pastoralists, for example, can claim the same piece of land for different purposes. Wandering cattle keepers who might compete with settled farmers for land or water sources could strike a deal thar allowed each to use the same piece of land according to the seasons. ‘The downside of the family is that distant relatives can claim from richer members, Any money that ene member earns is expected to be distributed throughout the rest of the extended family, Distant cousins can call on someone with a salary for money — for medicine or school fees or a wedding or funeral, At that time it could not be refused, Franco, a teacher at Kabuwoko and barely out of secondary school himself, with a salary of less than £20 a month, was expected to pay the school fees of two cousins. The school had football and netball teams and we encouraged students ro stay on at the end of lessons and practise. Most of the students had a long way to walk home and only one set of school had shoes, In a socie! clothes, Only a fe where ‘putting on smart? was all-important, they were unwilling to risk getting their precious shoes diety or damaged. We set up a volleyball court and played a hilarious kind of thirty-a-side volleyball cach evening, but if anyone fell over or muddied themselves they would hurry off in distress. We small tree for them, But nature holds sway in Uganda, One post so tried to make new goal posts for the football pitch and cut aUganda 23 grew and turned into a tree. The other was caten by termites, at only the inside of the wood, not the bark, so no-one noticed until a visiting striker hit the post with a devastating, shot. The post disappeared in a puff of dust and the crossbar came down, nearly putting our goalkeeper in hospital. That was typical of the sort of delicious insanity that enlivened life in Uganda. These stories might seem patronizing to some. Langhing at African foolishness? But the laughter was all theirs — gigantic, handslapping, fall down, helpless, luxurious laughter. Ir was a clash of civilizations all right, but one that resulted not in hostility bur hilarity. The jam fermented and became alcoholic. We had a record player that went faster and faster the closer the needle got to the centre of a record. And we had a small dog and a white cockerel that were blatantly racist and chased Africans from the house to our intense embarrassment and to the amuse ent of everyone else except the person being chased. Laughter at someone else’s expense is no crime in Africa. ve had an owner who did not want We assumed the dog must ha visitors or hated Africans, but the cock? Later it died in a horrific invasion. I had heard about marcher ants but had seen only the smaller version — little lines of skittering ants that sometimes crossed the paths on the hill, One night I was woken by the sounds of scuf- fling and a shout from Henry Ssemanda who slept in a room eppo- site our front door. He had heard our new-born puppies crying. He grabbed a torch and its beam picked out a secthing river of black and red monsters the size of earwigs flooding into the shed where the puppies were. They were yelping pathetically, their eyes a wriggling mass of ant pincers. We rushed to the hut and grabbed the puppies, nipping and tugging the ants away and getting some nasty bites ow ‘Ants were beginning to climb up our legs. Stamping on the column did nothing to deter it, More and more ¢ame hurr24 Africa is different on. Henry knew what to do. He ran off and found some lengths of rubber and built a small fire with them and then flung them, burn- ing, imo the column by the hut doer, Eventually the column like a giant snake turned back on itself and began to mave away from the house. We saved the puppies but in the morning we found the cock- crel half eaten. Instead of the harsh life I expected to be sharing with poor Africans, I found myself treated as a god. The freedom [ had imagined I would find was an illusion, Instead I found a society more restricted by tradition and Catholie prudishness than Victorian England, whose values Africans seemed to admire. I imagined that the immense welcome of dancing and clapping and speeches when I arrived was mer traditional formality and that afterwards I would get down to real life. It never happened. Real life turned out to be the formal, man- nered relationship that Afri poses on strangers. I could reject it or damage it but I could never escape from it. ‘You are a muzungu —a white man,’ it said. ‘And you must think like one, behave like one. You must be respected, bowed to, blessed, fawned on, presented with gifts, pampered and begged from. And kept firmly apart.’ As the impossibili disillu: of getting closer to Aftica dawned on me, my jonment turned to fury. I raged at the whites for refusing to recognize it as an issue and I raged at Africans for keeping me out. My attempts at ‘being myself”, an important part of the cultural bag- gage I had brought with me, were disastrous. In my early enthusiasm to identify with local people [ bought a kavs, a long plain white robe intreduced to the Baganda by Muslim traders in the nineteenth century, Kanzus are worn by Baganda elders with a tweed of linen jacket over it, Anyone wearing a kanzu is accorded unquestioned honour and behaves with corresponding dignity. I was encouraged to wear one to formal meetings. Also living on the hill were Rwandan exiles, Tutsi cattle keepers who had been driven out of RwandaUganda 25 by the Hutu uprising in 1989 and now worked as day labourers, mainly looking after cattle for richer Baganda, The Tutsis wore brightly coloured wraps called Likoys. The Baganda~Tutsi relation: ship was a complex one. The Baganda looked down on the Tutsis because they were foreign and poor. The tall, proud Tutsis looked down on the Baganda because they were unreliable, lazy — and shore. On ny first big, gathering of local bigwigs at the school I wanted to show Twas unaware of this mutual lack of respect for cach othe! how much | identified with my new world. I ware a kanzu with a kikoy over it. The effect was alarming. Some laughed, some were insulted, and all thought I was crazy. Mr Lule gently told me it would be better to dress nermally, On another occasion I went to visit a village some way off the road. They knew I was coming and decorated the path to it with banana leaves and sprigs of bougainvillaca, the usual welcome for a “Big Man’. Elders lined up to greet me; the long handshake, leaning forward ina deferential bow, the left hand holding up the wrist of the shaken hand as if it might be enfeebled by the touch of such a great man, Women fell forward onto their knees before me. This deference was not reserved exclusively for white forcigners; the bishop, the local district commissioner and any powerful man, Ugandan or for- cign, got the same deferential treatment. I was then placed on a dais on a special guest’s chair with the priest, the headmaster of the local primary school, the chief and an old man with service medals from the Second Werld War pinned to his kanzu. There was bottled beer and local beer in calabashes and kiganda dancing, a gorgeous display of women flicking their bottoms from side to side while they walked slowly back and forth, the rest of their bodies hardly moving. The best dancers could do it balancing a bottle of beer on their heads. The people sang and clapped in time as the drummers beat out the rhythm louder and louder and fa ter26° Africa is different and faster and the bottoms flew back and forth more and more vigorously until th dance rose to an orgasmic climax. Then suddenly i stopped and everyone fell about laughing and slapping hands with cach other, There followed a huge lunch of goat stew, beef stew, roast chicken, groundnut sauce, greens, potatoes and heaps of steam- ing masoote, the banana mash which is the staple food of the Baganda. Indeed, matooke is more than a staple. It means food. IF you have not eaten matooke you have not eaten. Then there were long speeches of praise for everyone, God, the government, me — Europe nis in general. Finall y it was time to go, and I was presented with a live chicken trussed by the legs. This village was poor, The Innch they had already provided must have severely strained their resources. A crowd of poor people hung around the dining table looking longingly at the leftovers. As 1 was leaving I picked the poorest person I could see and handed him th chicken. The reaction was startling. Smiles fell away from faces; peo- ple who had greeted me warmly averted their eyes and would not look me in the eye. The farewells were abrupt and perfunctory. They were insulted and, for once, showed it. They had laid on the best the village could offer and treated me like a king and I had given their present away to a Worthless person, I had treated them and their gift as if they were net good cnough. Tr was one of many incidents that showed the gulf in understand- ing,. The simplest of actions could be misinterpreted. I was trying, to understand Africa but it did not eccur te me to imagine how my own behaviour could be misinterpreted. I assumed what I did was ‘nor mal’ and obvious. Once I went for a walk down the and through the shambas scattered along the hillside and swamps. It was partly for inquisitiveness and partly for exercise. At every hut I passed I was ‘Eh! Muzu-ungu? Eh! Eh! Osibie Otyanno,” and requests to come and sit down, Mostly [ showered with astonished grectingsUganda 1 27 refused. That evening a puzzled Henry Ssemanda came and asked why I was looking for workers. I discovered that my walk had been interpreted as a search for people to come and work on my shamba. No-one would believe that anyone went for a walk just for the sake of walking. Thanks to hours spent talking to Mr Lule and Henry Ssemanda I was beginning to get my mind around some of the atti- tudes and beliefs and learn how to behave. Other cultural guifs tormented me. One was the lack of personal privacy, Like most (We stern) people, I like to be on my awn some- times. In Africa to be on your own me; ins you are sick or upset. If I went and sat alone in the sun, people would ask me what was the matter and no-one thought anything of coming to my house and waking me once the sun was up. [t was a social duty to make sure that I always had company. Another was the contrast between the social formality and apparent Catholi¢ — almost Victorian — morality about sex and the extraordinarily sexually explicit traditional dancing. I was all for keeping traditions alive, but was there a connection between the sex-with-clothes-on dance and the number of girls who left through pregnancy? I discussed these issues with Mr Lule and he discouraged me from trying to be part of African life. The best contribution, he said, was to be a teacher and be myself, Mr Lule contradicted the Baganda stereotype. The Baganda tend to be heavy, slightly overweight. He was tiny, bird-like. They move with languid grace, he bounced around with jerky, electric movements. They have a tendency to dis: course in mellifluor s bullshit. He was abrupt and blunt to the point of rudeness. Resignation would typify most Bagandas’ attitude to life. Mr Lule was a man of boundless action based on perpetual opti- mism, Ask him how things are going and he wo Id pause and think, then give one of two answers: ‘Things are improving’ or ‘Things will improve soon,”28 Africa is different In 1985, when Uganda was in ruins and much of Kampala bad been sacked by murderous, looting soldiers, I visited him at his home on the outskirts of the capital. Some soldiers had come to his house late a few nights before and banged on the door. He, his wife and children were on their knees praying while the soldiers rampaged around outside commanding them to open the door or else they would shoot. The family stopped praying and fled to another room and waited in silence in the dark. Then, inexplicably, the soldiers left and attacked and killed their neighbours instead. When I asked Mr Lule how things were going, the pause was slightly longer than usnal, bur the answer was the same: “Things are improving.’ Then he added; ‘Glory be to God.’ Ap of that generation which benefited hugely from Western education, cher all his life, he admired learning and discipline. He was health and administration, but he was no apologist for colonialism, His attitude to the British before independence was, “Thank you, but how treat us as equals and do not stay on to oppress us.’ He had thirteen children and made sure evi one, girl and boy, got as much education as possible. Each one has been successful in one way or another. His eldest daughter, Josephine Namboze, was Uganda’s first woman doctor, one son the local head of a trans- national corporation, another an architect, another the official doc- tor of the Uganda sports teams That family represents what Africa could have, should have become, In two generations the Lule family produced world-class professionals and had confidence and a sense of worth. It was the answer to Frantz Fanon’s thesis that the most damaging, effect of colonialism was psychological. Fanon argued that Africans and black people in general were so deeply scarred by the experience af white imperialism that they had lost their pride, their self-respect. Until they stood up, proud of being, black and African, they would alwaysUganda 29 be — or make themselves — vietims, and fail. Here was a family who proved Fanon wrong. n 1970 and fifte Amin’s rule, Mr Lule’s grandchildren were headed for Uganda’s nightmare began decade of Idi a lifestyle more like that of his own parents, The professional classes years later, after a fled. Uganda’s institutions withered, Subsistence survival seemed the best most Ugandans could hope for, Across Kampala and other towns little vegetable gardens started to spring up in municipal flowerbeds and other urban spaces. A generation was lost, Only today, nearly forty years later, ean Mr Lule’s grandchildren and grear- grandchildren pick up the potential and possibilities thar he had. Although he was enly eleven or so, Ssemanda had an instinctive understanding of Europeans and their peculiar ways. He taught me Luganda and interpreted for me. More important, he explained the thinking, of local people. He told me how they would interpret what I did and said. Gradually 1 was acclimatized to Ugandan culture and ways of thinking. It was a painful process, My youthful arrogance lay not in thinking I knew better, but believing that principles such as equality were universal and self-evident. I had believed thar truth was more important than politeness, but now I began to learn how to live in a deeply unequal society where politeness ranked far higher than truth, Mr Lule, being an old man and deeply respected, could get away with being blunt and straightforward. I could not. I had to play by local rules The rules were complex and I realized I would never learn them fully, never become part of society except on its terms. But I learned how to get by without causing, offence. That meant, first, avoid con- frontation, Teasc, joke, cajole, don’t demand or command. Don’t always seek a defi te resolution of a problem; sometimes it is better to leave things unresolved. Don’t expect the truth and don’t blurt it out, Hint at . work round to it, leave it understood but unspoker30 Africa is different Never, never get angry. Anger never works and loses you respect. me in Afri Above all be patient. Everything takes more a than else where. Good-hearted outsiders, idealists who truly want to help Aftica, often find themselves mysteriously impeded by Africa because, in their enthusiasm to get things done, they come across as rude or domincering. These lessons have saved me a lot of trouble. They do not apply to Somalis, to white South Africans or in parts of Nigeria. Gradually I began to learn to live in my gilded cage and put up with the Awning and gift-giving. It was not easy. ‘What am I doing here? Iam giving nothing to Africa. Iam merely swirled around by it I wrote in my diary, and my letters home became less and less informative about what Uganda was really like. I just could not find points of reference that my fumily and friends would understand. Life in Africa was very, very different. Tewas hard to see how Uganda or Affica itself could develop with- out a transformation of those attitudes and belief systems. Africa might be able to produce the best, talented and capable, but could they operate in Africa as they would in America? For example, in Africa & football ga ry event has a spiritual cause or actor, Success in cxams or and disasters such as disease or death, all have agents, human or divine. There is no such thing as chance. Wealth and progress are obtained with the help of spirits or magic medicine. A Big, Man has power, and that power cannot be challenged or ques- tioned because behind his wealth or position lies spiritual power that enables him to accrue wealth and an important job. That sense of spi itual power is common to almost all of Africa, a whole dimension that outsiders ignore at their peril, Another aspect that outsiders find difficult is the responsibil that come outsider, [ received a constan with being a wealth stream of requests from people coming to my house asking forIndex 9/11 attacks, 193, 278 419 seams, 446-8 Abacha, Sani, 85, 272, 430, 445, 453, 465, 468-72, 531; and African government, 71, and clites, 468-9; and magical powers, 469; death, 4712 Abani, Chris, 468 Abdi, Dr, 105-6 Aberdare Mountains, 415 Abgal sub-clan, 100-1 Abidjan, 67 Abiola, Mashood, 470 Aboriginal Australians, 392 abortion, 345 Abubakar, Atiku, 477 Abuja, 463-6, 471, 476 Accra, LL, $19-20 Achebe, Chinua, 68, 79, 316, 359, 421, 440, 445, 511, 536, 542 Acholi people, 46, 71 Addis Ababa, 90, 178 Aden, 58, 94 Adjumani camp, 174 Adwok, Peter, 178-80, 182-8 Afar people, 93 Afghanistan, 100, 197 Africa: Another Side of the Coin (Sardanis}, 271 African Central Bank, 533 African Chitd, The (Laye), 316 African diaspora, 260-1, 535-6 African National Congress (ANC), 61 130-1, 141, 152~ 400; ideology, 154, 392-5. elections, 238-9, 403-4; leaders in exile, 383, 402; leadership imprisonmed, 394-6; and Black Consciousness, 396-7; in government, 405-6, 410; constitution and presidential election, 410-14, 532 African Peer Review Mechanism, 254, 436, 534-5 African Unies nism, 63, 154, 208, 392-4, 406 AFRICOM, 508 Alfikaans, 384 Afrikaner Chamber of Commerce, 407 Afrikaners, 61, 131-2, 201, 884, 390-3. Afier the Party (Feinstein), 342 Afwerke, Issaias, 280 agriculture, 68, 87, 268, 357-8, 536-7 Aguer, Peter, 166 Ahmed, Sharif Sheikh, 126 Ahmed, Yakubu, 482 aid, 6-8, 263, 266-9, 275, 279, 526-30, 534; aid-dependency, 49,totals, 80, 220, $15; and ation of wars, 109, 167-8; China and, 487, 490, 492, 500, 504, 507, 526; aid, 529 agencies, 6-8, 16, 33, 496, 508, 527, $44; and Somalia, LO7-9, 115; and continuation of wars, 109, 167-8; and Sudan, 165-9, 173; and Rw: genocide, 168, 249; and economic failure, 266, 279; and Congo, 369 Aideed, General Mohammed, 100-1, 106-8, 110, 113-14 AIDS, see HIV/AIDS Akol, Lam, 179, 191 Albright, Madeleine, 237-8 Aleppo, 186 Algeria, 5, 58, 61, 390, 424 Alier, Dr Ajak Bullen, 181 Al-Qaeda, 278, 330, 427 Amadu Bamba Mbakke, Cheikh, 255-9, 261 Americas, 85, 205, 392; ser ato Latin America; United States of America in, Idi, 29, 37-80, 78, 82, 272, 531, 533, $46; as stereotype dictator, 38, 47, 151; rise to power, 40-4: Israeli support for, 42-3, 46, 88; downfall, 43; exercise of power, 44-50; and African government, 71; cannibalism accusations, 319 Amsterdam, 446 ancestors, 314, 317, 326; and AIDS, 339; Samburu, 418 Anglican Church, 190 nglo American company, 300 Anglo-Leasing fraud, 433 Angola, 82, $5, 100, 130, 154, 199-232, 241, 305-6, 310, 390; and state collapse, 16, 36,282, 310; Portuguese legacy, 61, 201, 203-4, 207-9, 220; and oil, 84, 209, 211, 216-17, 220-2, 281, 297, 538; and Cubans, 84, 131, 141, 199, 209-10, 212, 216; elections, 88, 217, 2215 and front-line intervention, LOY, 196; mesticas, An Index 555 201, 212; peace agreement and civil war, 209, 217; and Russians, 209-10, 212; racism in, 210; economy, 210-11, 220, 281, 514, 522; hostage release, 213, 215; and Congo, 218, 251-2, 362, 368; and corruption, 219-22, 279, 282, 449; health and education, 220-1; and China, 221, 487, 489-91, 495, 497, 503-4, 506; 295, 297, 300; ‘child witches’, 317; and South Africa, 394, 4005 and Zimbabwe, $32 Animat Form (Orwell), 144 animal sacrifice, 314 Ankole cattle, 15. Annan, Kofi, 237, 530 Anne, Princess, 47 Ansar, 161 retroviral drugs, 323, 326, 329-31, 346, 408, 529, 540 Antwerp, 294, 300 42-3, 163-4 meka, 158 nd diamor ant apartheid, experiences af, 385-9 Arabs, 365; Arab cause, 42, 46, 164; traders, $3, 195; in Sudan, 159, 187, 193-4, 196-8; slave traders, 160, 162, 193, 195, 202 Arabic, 189, 194 Argentina, 372 Arta, 122 Arusha peace accords, 238-40, 242-3 As oldfields, 272 Ashanti kingdom, Asia, 5-6, 68, 261, 276, 466, 498, 512; economies, 49, 87, 264-6, 408-9, 538; dictatorships, 79; and shive trade, 201; share of world trade, 267; and manufacturing, 268-9, 536; and plague, 333; and Africa, 484-508, 514, 526; and capital light, 834; and African diaspora, 535 asiente, 204 Atlantic Oce 292 Ato, Osman, 110 nti 203, 206, 209, 290,556 Index Australia, 47, 58, 115, 119, 392, 807 Azapo (Azanian People's Organization), 396 Babangida, Ibrahim, 445, 470, 472 475 Baganda people, 14-15, 24-7, 40-1, 434, 47, 73, 547 Bahima people, 228 Bahiru people, 228 Baidoa, 123, 125 Bakiga people, 64 Banda, Hastings, 271-2, 401, 531 Bangladesh, LO Bangui, 363 Bangura, Alusine, 301 Banjul (Bathurst), 202 banking system, and corruption, 429-30, 538 Bantu languages, 93 Banyamulenge people, Baol region, 255 Bar el Ghazal, 184 Bar Lev, Colonel, 43 Barber, Professor James, 73 Barnett, Tony, 339 Barre, Sind, 85, 90, 98, 97-101, 216 Rasankusu, 374~5 Batswana people, $23 Batwa pygnnies, 223, 227-8 Bayelsa state, 456-7 beer, 25, 188, 308, 390 Beijing, 372, 486, 494, 496, 498-9, 505-6 Beira, 129, 137, 142 Beja people, 164, 194 Belgium, 107, 371; and Africa, 60-1; and Congo, 79, 365-6, 368; and Rwanda and Burundi, 115,227, 229-30, 232-3; economy, decolonization, 389 Bemba, Jean-Pierre, 363, 370, 376, 379 Bead ir the River; A (Naipaul), 364 Benguela, 205 Benin, 80 Benjamin, John, 301 Berbera, 119 Berlin conference, 54, 57 ‘Omar, 193, 196-7 , Paul, 834 Biafra, 4, 168, 305 Bible, 312, 316, 384 Bight of Benin, 455 Biko, Steve, 63, 154, 313, 394-5, 397 bin Laden, Osama, 160, 178, 193 bin Talal, Prince Alwaleed, 520 Bindi, Dan, 289, 293, 308-11 Bio, Julius Maada, 303 Birmingham University, 303 Biwort, Nicholas, 429, 432, 436 Biya, Paul, 78, $8 Black Book, The, 189 Black Consciousness Movement, 154, 394-7 Black Death, $33 Black Hawk helicopt Blair, Tony, 8, 150 Blakeney Management, 515-16 Bo, 289, 308, 311-12, 315 Bokassa, Jean-Bedel, 34, 39-40, 71, 85-6, 151, 319 Bond, Catherine, 240 Bongo, Omar, 88 Bonny, 449 Bophutatswana, 400 Bor, 158 Boromo, 95 Bosnia, 5, 238 Botha, P. W., 131, 141, 398-401 53, 79, 87; and diamonds, dependence, 65; and s, 114 South Affica, 141-2, 394, 400; and Zimbabwe, 151, economy, 265, 281; ethnicity, 281; and AIDS, 328-9, 331, 383, 350, 540; old age pensions, 348; and 5034 Boy, King, 455 Brazil, 265, 332, 392, 536 bride price, 21 Bridgland, Fred, 211 Bristol, 291 Britain, 80, 275, 278, 285, 508, 541; Amin visits, 46; and Ugandan Asians, 47; and Second World War, 57; nd a, Suez crisis, 58; anddecolonization, 58-9, 62, 208, 389 and South Africa, 61-2, 136, 141-3, 150, 154, 389-91; and Affican leaders, 66, 88; imperial rule, 70, 203-4, 365; and Som: 94-6, 98, 107; and Rwanda, 115; and Rhodesia/ Zimbabwe, 129, 131-6, 140, 144-5, 147-51, 153, 157, 531; and front line states if Traq war, 150; and Sudan, 159-62, 182, 197-8; and Leone, 202, 238, 290-3, 303, 320; and Euro-Aftican traders, 203-4; and slave trade, 206, 290-3; and Angolan hostages, 213; and Burundi and Rwanda, 236, 242; and African businesses, 274; and American war, 290-1; Bience Gawanas and, 305-6; Mbe 410; and Kenya, 423, 425-4 and corruption, 450, 538— Nigeria, 452, +76, 478; and Nigerian elites, 466: protectionism, 538 British Petroleum, 129 Brogderbond, 383 Brussels, 363, 365, 368 Buckingham Palace, 46, 467 Bucknor, Kofi, 19-21, 536 Buganda kingdom, 40-1, 71 Bujumbura, 223 Bunce Island, 292, 320 Bunia, 238 Burkina Faso, 80 Burma, 39 Burnt-Out Case, A (Greene), 364 Burundi, 126, 223-34, 238-9, 242-4, 520; and state collapse, 36; and fron intervention, 109; Hucu-Tutsi divide, 224-32 massacres, 224, 231, 235-6; army, 224, 232; colonial history, 227-8; precolonial history, 228-9; independence, 230-1; elections, 23041; and invasion of Congo, 252 Bush, George, 211 Bush, George W., 110, 150, 345 and, 5 430; 5 and Index 557 businesses an, 74-8, 273-5; multinational, 6; Chinese, 75, 274; European, 273~4; and corporate responsibility, 501-2 Buthelezi, Chief Mangosuthu (Gatsha), 238-9, 401-4 Caetano, Marcelo, 208 Cairo, 197, 487 Calabar, 202 Calderisi, Robert, 506 Cambodia, 100, 507 camels, 91, 96-7, 116-17, 119-20, 194, 196, 417 Cameroon, 61, 78, 88, 333, 491, Canada, 47, 391, 800, 392 cannibalism, 212, 285, 302, 319 Cape af Good Hope, 201 Cape Town, 466, 487, 542 Cape Verde, 209 capital flight, 534 capitalism, 83-4, 157, 266, 393, 490 Cardiff, 94 Care, 48 Caribbean, 290 Casamance province, 262 Catholic Church, 230, $49-30; belief in teansubstantiation, 319; and, AIDS, 336-7; in Congo, 369 Gatholies, 16,41, 390-1 Central Africa, 218; and slave trade, 205; and traditional religion, 312; and AIDS, 323 Central African Empire, 34, 40, 85-6 Central African Republic, 198, 363, 297 Césaire, Ai Ceuta, 61 Chad, 195-6, 198, 252 Chalker, Lynda, 143, 237 Chambishi mine, 501 Cheney, Dick, 449 Chesoni, Zaccheus, £30 Chevron, 217 abuse, 329, 336 Chimutengwende, Chen, 144 China, 58, 463; and Africa, 53-4, 86, 484-508, 514, 516, 525-6, 529; 38 395558 Iudex and Zimbabwe, 127, 189, 490; and Sudan, 197; and Angola, 221, 49 economy, 264-5; and South Afric: 394; and corruption, 446, 495, economic reforms, 491; African traders in, 493, 500-1; and loans, 497; and manufacturing, 500, 508, 536; and governance, 501-3 international reputation, 505-6; and globalization, 506 China Development Bank, 494 China National Gil Corporation, 493 Chissano, Joaquim, 143, 180 Chokwe kingdom, 200 Choudry, Maximilian L., 72 Christian Bellowship Trust, 382-3 Christian Institute, 383, 389 Christianity, $4, 312-13; evangelical, 193, 312, 316, 337; and polygamy, 336-7; and AIDS, 337, 345; in Nigeria, 452-3; fundamentalist, 512, and African identity, $40 Churches, 16, 549 Churchill, Winston, 36, 216, 424-5 CIA, 123, 211, 218, 348 circumcision, 333, $41, 418 Girillo, Peter, 187 Cirillo, Thomas, 187 Ciskei, 400 wars, 2-3, 69, 88, 209, 524 ay, Edward, 529 see global wan Clinton, Rill, 114, 236-7, 242 Clun, river, 287 Coca-Cola, 371, 375 cocaine, 302 Cocepwa (Coping Centre for People Living with AIDS), 330, 352 cocoa, 66, 267, 269, 437, 536 Coetzee, Gerri, 384, 400 coffee, 4, 17-18, 206-7, 217, 269, 361, 536, 544 Coben, Herman, 275 Cold War, 44, 46, 62, 79, 83-5, 272-3, 486; end of 86, 275, 497; and Angola, 209, 212-13, 216-17; and diamonds, 298; and Congo, 457, 460, 485 368; China and, 490-1 Collier, Paul, 263 Colonial Office, 87 coltan, 364 COMESA (Common Market for Eastern and Souther: Affiea), 500 Commission for Africa, 150 49, 87, 267, 499, commodity price 526 Common Market for Eastern and Southern Africa, 500 Commonwealth, 142, 151, 155, 430 Commonwealth Development Corporation, 49 Commonwealth O: cammunalism, 21-2, 35 Communauté frangaise d'Afrique, 60 Communism, 3, 84, 209, 275, 490-1; and Rhodesia /Zimbabwe, 131-2; and South Africa, 398-401, £03 Compaore, Blaise, 81 Concorde, 34, 362, 371 condoms, 336-8, 345 Congo (DRE and Zaire), 11, 85, 140, 152, 180, 198, 208, 310, 353-79; ethnicity and languages, 3; and state collapse, 16, 36, 282, 310, 379, 511, 529; independence, 60, 67-8, 78-9, 82, 366; Mobutu’s rule, 67, 78, 366-70, 451; elections, 89, 368, 378-9; and front-line intervention, 109, 196; and aid agencies, 168; overthrow of Mobutu, 218, 361-2 Banyamulenge Tutsis, 228 Burundian gangs in, 231-2; UN intervention in, 238, 545; and Rwandan genocide, 242, 248, 362; Rwandan and Ugandan invasion, 249-52, 254, 281, 360-2; palm oil production, 269; businesses in, 274; and corruption, 278, 368-9, 379, 449-50; and diamonds, 297, 364, 428; ‘child witches’ , 317; and child soldiers, 3295 resources and nportance to Africa, 363—4; and origin of AIDS, 364; war casual 364-5; life expectancy, 365; size of,365; political parties, 369-705 peace agreement, 378; patriotism, 379; and China, 491, 493, 504; tragil of, $29, $31 Congo, river, 365 Congo Brazzaville, 68, 88, 218, 109, 281 Conservative Party, 132, 429 copper, 368, 427, 489, 491, 507 Coriolanus (Shakespeare), 411 Cornwall, 308 corruption, 219-20, 277-9, $02, $25, 538-9; and oil, 282; and diamonds, 294; and Nigeria, 446-81; and China, 446, 495, 504 Cote d'Ivoire, 34, 65, 238; and state collapse, 36, 441; independence, 62, 66-7; popular uprising, 81; and 109; palm oil production, 26%; economy, 270; and AIDS, 343; expatriates in, 527 cotton, 206, 217, 267-8 cricket, 145 Croatia, § Cubans, 84, 181, 141, 199, 209-10, 212, 216 currencies, 60, 87-8, 211; callapse of, 276, 278-9 Cushitie languages, 92 Cyprus, 11, 58 Czechoslovakia, 213 front-line intervention a, Vaseo, 488 abir, Abdi, 11-12, 114 dahiras, 256, 260 Daily Telegraph, 44 Dakar, 257-8 Dallaire, Gs 239 Dambarta, 482 dams, 493, 498, 503 dancing, 27, 50, 200, 286-7; kiganda, 25-6; devil dancers, 311; Ogle dance, 458 Danga, Henry Stephen, 186-7 Dar ex Salaam, 123, 234, 489 Darfarr, 6, 194-8, 238, 505, 529; ‘ral Re Index 559 ethnicity, 194-8; African Union and, $34 Darade clan, 123 De Beers, 297-300 de Gaulle, General Charles, 86 de Klerk, E.W., 410 de Waal, Alex, 331 debt reduction, 477-8, 491-2, 515, 534 Deby, Idriss, 198 tion, 88-62, 68 democracy, 71-5, 86-9, 275-6, 280, 282, 423,531, 534; and Cold War, 83, 86-7, 272; China and, 86, 495, 497, 503; and economies, $15; and oil, 538-9; see also elections Deng Xiaoping, 491 Depart Development, 496 depression, 286, 329-30, 540. diamonds, 53,211, 217, 281, 283, 294-300; and Sierra Leone, 288, 294-7, 300, 304, 309; min 295-6; monopoly on supply, 297-300; prices, 298; ‘blood diamonds’, 300; and river blindness, 310; and Congo, 361, 365; Kenyan fraud, 428, 431 Dinka people, 158, 164-5, 167 Diouf, Abdou, 259, 262 Dispartehes front a Fragile Consinent (Harden), 76 Djibouti, 93, 122 Dlamini, Sonnyboy, 328 Dongo, 373, 375 dos Santos, José Eduardo, 85, 217, 221 Douglas: Home, Charles, 4-5 drugs trade, 444-8, 539 Dubai, 258, 409, 429, 466 Durban, 403 Durumi, 463-5, 542 Datch, 204; and South Alfica, 61, 390-1; and slave trade, 293 Datch Reformed Church, 383 decolor for International East Africa, 10, 36, 44, 49, 173, 261; and Chinese visitation, 53, 486-560 Index and animal peaching, 95; businesses in, 274; and traditional religion, 312; and AIDS, 323; and Kitengi cloth, 88 Eastern Europe, 86, 265, 275-6, 447 Ebola, 364, 546 economies, Affican, 75-6, 87, 262-83, 509, 514-15, S38-9; reasons for failure, 49, 266-83; loss of market shar 276-7; and war on terror’, 278; and currency collapse, 278-9; and AIDS, 326, 330, 345-6; and African diaspora, 535 Economist, 283 ECOWAS (Economic Community of West African States), 303, 500 iucation, 16-17, 28, 37, 498; Western, 66; and AIDS, 326-7, 329; in South Africa, 386, 397, 405, 407 Egypt, 15, 158, 178, 189, 195; and Suez Canal, 58, 160; pyramids, 82, 368; and Sudan, 160-2, 197; manufacturing industries, 202 1, Christopher, 314 Ekiti state, 479-80 Ekuphakameni secondary sehool, 334 Ekwueme, Alex, 473-5 elderly, respeet for, 21, 289, 358 Eldorer, 4 Elizabeth II, Queen, 46, 145, 301 Elsa the Lianess, 422 England rugby team, 404 Entebbe, 360-1, 545 cntreprencurs, African, 271-2 ronmental standards, 492, 495, 501-2, 504 lity, in African societies, 29, 82 inca, 60, 495, 514, 538 Britrea, 122, 128, 180, 164, 177, 197-8; economy, 280-1 Essien, Michael, 510 opia, 65, 130; favine, 4, 85 and state collapse, 36; and Som 92-3, 95, OL, 112, 122-3, 198, 530; language, 93; and Sudan, 164, 177-9, 197; and aid agencies, 267-70; economic reforms, 168; source of Blue Nile, 188; anc Tutsis, 245; forcible resettlements, 273; economy, 280-1, $14; and China, 492-3, 496 Eto’, Samuel, 510 Euro-Afrieans, 202-7 Europe, 3, 9-10, 468, 483, S14; in, 16; peasant life in, 18; and individualism, 21; and land, 22; and settlers, 31-2, 200-1; and ism, 81-2; and imperial rule, 3-8, 62, 70; industrial revolution, 37; and world wars, 57; continuing influence in Africa, 59, 63; and democracy, 74; and mixed economy, cultural subsidies, 268; trade 268-9; and adapration of environment, 288; and Enlightenment beliefs, 313; and plague, 383; backing for Mobutu, 366; and immigration, 399; and Kenya, 436-7; and corruption, 446, 449; and China in Africa, 485, 488, 494, 497-8, 500, 505, 507, 526; manufretured goods, 493; expatriates, 527: and Atti diaspora, $35-6, 541 European Union, §2, 122, 497-8 Evening Standard, 515, Extractive Industries Transparency Initiative, 449, 502 Eyadema, Gnassingbe, 81 n Fabre, Chief Ralph, 460-1 Falkland Islanders, 293 familics, extended, 20-2; and AIDS, 327, 336-7; and land reform, 536-7 Fanon, Frantz, 28-9, 395 Farah, Nuruddin, 92 farm animals, 357 Fascism, 3, 403 Fashoda incident, 161-2 Feinstein, Andrew, 342 Financial Times, 44, 516 First World War, 57, 140, 182, 227, 43 Fitides (Greck businessman), 361, 363Flower, Ken, 135 NLA (National Front for the Liberation of Angola}, 208 FOCAG (Forum on China-Afriea Co- operation Conference), #94, 499 Foceart, Jacques, 59-60 football, 16, 22, 33, 510 Foreign Office, 42, 44, 143, 236 Fort Hare, 128 Fort Portal, 517 Fourah Bay College, 302 Fox, Eleanor, 298 France, 80, 275, 278; and Africa, 56-7, 89-60, 365, 508; and Second World War, 57; and Suez crisis, 58; and decolonization, 62, 208, 389; and Affican leaders, 65-6, 68, 85; and Cate d'Ivoire, 66-7, 238; imperial rule, 70, 203-4; and Zaire, 79; and Togo, 81; and Somalia, 98, 107; and Fashoda incident, 161-2; and Euro-African traders, 203-4; and Rwanda, 242; and Amadu Bamba, 255=6, 258; and African businesses, 274; and Sierra Leone, 292; and slave trade, 292; and Tonge, 368 Franco, Serge, 376-7 free market principles, 7, 75, 87-8, 272, 278, 277, 279-80, 282, $34 and telecoms, 115; and apartheid, 132; and China, 497-8; and protectionism, 538 Freetown, 202, 289-90, 292-3, 301, 303-4, 307, 320 ime, 128, 131, 154 Is, L8, 22, 285, 287, 326, 367, 466, 544 Fur people, 164, 194 Gabon, 88, 208, 285-6, 501, $38 Gaborone, 141, 331 Gaddafi, Colonel, 46, 195, 278 Gaillard, Philippe, 242 Galkayo, 11 Gambia, 79, 202, 335 Garang, Colonel John, L63-5 183, 187-8, 191 178-9, Index 561 Gawanas, Bience, 305-6 Gazankulu, 400 Gbadolite, 362, 369-73, 377; palaces, 371-8, 491 Gbagbo, Laurent, 81 Geldof, Bob, 8 Gemena, 374-5 Geneva, 108, 429-30. German East Africa, 227 Germany, 365, 429; Nazi, 216; and Rwanda and Burundi, 227, 229, 232 visser, Mark, 411 ana, 11-12, 66, 89, 128, 154, 187, 216, 310; and state collapse, 16, 310; independenee, $8, 62, 187; economy, 265, 280, 519-20; and entrepreneurs, 272, 519-20; Kente cloth, 388; and C! clections, 524; and oil Gibralrarians, 293 Githongo, John, 432-4 Giwa, Dele, $73 Global Fund to Fight AIDS, Malaria and TB, 345 global warming, 14, 459, 511, 839 globalization, 488, $02, 506, 537 Goal, 169 God's Window, 321 gold, 52, 54, 202-3, 288, 300, 364-5; prices, 406; Kenyan fraud, 428-9, 431 Gold Coast, see Ghana Goldenberg frand, 428-33 Goldie, George, 450 Goma, 241, 248-9, 362 Gordon, General Charles, 160 gorillas, 238 Government They Deserpe, The (Khalid), 163 Gewon, Yakubu, 462 Great Lakes region, 228 Greece, 10 Greeks, 274 ariots, Group of Eight, 527 Guangdong province, 494 Guardian, 527562 Index Guei, General Robert, 81 Guelleh, Ismael Omar, 122 Guinea, 56-7, 59, 68, 316, 530, 533, 5a8 Guinea-Bissau, 61, 209, 530 Gulf of Guinea, 217 Gulf War, 110 Habr Gedir sub-elan, 100 Habyarimana, Juvenal, 234, 239-40, 242-3 Haggar, Anis, 186 Hain, Peter, 130 Halliburton, 449 Hani, Chris, 410-11. Hanley, Gerard, 92, 99 Harare, 130,137, 141, 187 Harden, Blaine, 76 Hargeisa, 91, 94-5, 116, 118, 123 Hassan, Mohammed Abdille, 91 Hausa people, 452-3 Havana, 204 Hawiye clan, 100, 124 Hawkins, John, 290, 320 Hazoumé, Romuald, 80, 93 Heart of Darkness (Conrad), 364 Heath, Ted, 44 Henry V, King, 487 Bill, *Pa’, 307 Hitler, Adolf, 249 HIV/AIDS, 37, 184, 821-52, 408, 529, 540, 546; and funcrals, 19; infected blood stories, 190; and spirit world, 315, 334-5; infection rates, 340-1; and life expectancy, 323, 346; and demography, 326; and starvation, 326; stigma of, 828-9; and depression, 329-30; political consequences, 329-31; awareness and prevention campaigns, 331-5, 338-41, 345; and sex education, 333-4; belies concerning, 335-6; and business, 344, 346; women activists, 347-52; 01 364 Hlophe, Siphiwe, 348-9 Hochschild, Adam, 489 nin Congo, Holland, Heidi, 145 Holland, 268; see also Netherlands Homer, 314 Hong Kong, 258, 440 Houphouét-Boigny, Félix, 65-7, 80-1, 85 Houston, Whitney, 308 Hu Jintao, 484, 494, 507 Huguenots, 390 Hunzvi, Chenjerai, 146-7 Hurd, Douglas, 149, 236-7 Hussein, Saddam, 150, 178 Hutus, 25, 224-34, 236-7, 239-43; 245-6, 249-50, 361-2; and post- conflict Rwanda, 253-4 identity, African, 63~ Igbo people, a1 IMF (International Monetary Fund), 87-8, 115, 146, 497, 514, S18; and Angola, 220-2; and African economies, 266, 276-7, 280-2; and AIDS, 343; backing for Mobutu, 878; and Congo, 379; and Kenya, 429 imperialism, 32, 54-8, 62-3, 70, 84, 203; Portuguese, 204, 207; and African eeonomies, 266; China and, 496 Independent, 112, 243 India, 162, £52, 463; independence, 8; route to, 94, 160; economy, 264; and Mauritius, 281; and corruption, 446; and Africa, 485, 502, 526, 529; and agriculture, 336 Indian Ocean, 101, 122, 187, 142, 281, 401, 422, 488 Indians, 274 Indonesia, 6, 126, 4 infrastructure, Chine: 526 Inkatha movement, 238, 402-4 mwe, 240-1, 249, 251 ional Criminal Court, 196, 304, 379 5-6, 485, 536 and, 498, 508,International Institute for Environment and Development, 539 Internet, 88, 447, 520, 823, 525 Trag, 150, 178, 197 Ircland, 263, 890-1, 540-1 Irish nuns, 169-71, 180, 389 Irish Republican Brotherhood, 391 Isaley airstrip, 124 Isiaku, Ibrahim, 473-5 Islam, 53, 255, 312; and Somalia, 97, 124-5; and Sudan, 159-60, 177-8, 193, 198, 197; and Darfur, 193; and trading systems, 261; and traditional religion, 315; see ale Muslims: Sufi Islan Islamic Courts Union, 123-6, 530 Isracl, 42-3, 46, 85; and Sudan, 42-3, 164; and Afiican rulers, 85; and Angola, 85, 218; and Rwanda, 253, and nuclear weapons, 401-2 Italy, 96, 98, 365. ivory, 202, 206, 217, 365, 536 Iwatoka farm, 186 Jackson, Rev, Jesse, 303 Jamaica, 293 Jansba, 213-14 James II, King, 390 Jammeh, Yahya, 335 Janjaweed, 195-6 Japan, 126, 317,484, 545 Jarumi, Chief Shapra, 463-4 Jeddah, 119 Jesus Christ, 312, 314, 316, 319 Tiang, in, 486 Jigawa state, 482 Johannesburg, 130, 243, 32 387, 389, 396, 515; dany 139-90; stock exchange, 300; miners and AIDS, 338 Jehnson-Sirleaf, Ellen, 66 Jonah, James, 272, 294 Jonglei Canal, 158 Jos, 473-4 Juba, 164, 178, 183-4, 187 Juba valley, 94 Kabaka, 40-1, 547,547 Index 563 Kabaka Yekka party, 73 Kabale, 248 Kabbah, Ahmed ‘Tejan, 303 Kabila, Joseph, 378, 379 Kabila, Laurent, 85, 250-2, 361-3, 377-8, 446 Kabuwoko, 13, 15-16, 47, 545-6 KADU (Kenyan African Democratic Union), 426 Kagame, Paul, 233, 244, 249-50, 252, 280-1, 362 Kagera, river, 44-5 Kaiser Foundation, 339 Kajo Keji, 174 Kalenjin people, 4, Kambia, 56 Kamitaru, Olivier, 370-1, 373 Kampala, 45, £7, 172, 174, 177, 184, 243, 247, 375, 5175 road to, 18, 545; sack of, 28-9; and Amin, 38, 43; and L 1, 543-5 Kampala Rugby Club, 39, 44 Kamakunji, 423 Kananga, 213 Kangwane, 400 Kano, 479-82 KANU (Kenyan African Nat 6, 438 Je's finer Union), 426 Kanu, Nwankwo, 510 Kanyoru, James, 429 hanzus, 24-5 Kaplan, Robert, 283 Karamoja, 72-8 Kargho, Captain Karefa, 301 Kariuki, J. M., 422 Karongole, 19 Katsina state, 481 Kaunda, Kenneth, 65, 153, 129, 270-1 Kayonza, 244 Keliko language, 186 Kennedy, John F., 301 Kenya, 12, 40, 43-8, 55, 78, 84, 310, 383-4, 415-38; and Mau Mau uprising, LL, 58, 61, 66, 305, 425-6, 435; elections, 89, 422-3, 428, 430-2, 435-6, 525; and Somalia, 93—£, 108, 110, 125564 Index US embassy bombing, 123, 330; and Sudan, 171, 198; white settlers, 201, 424-8; land purehases, 269-70; economy, 270-1, 278, 431, 483; and corruption, 178, 428-33, 436; and AIDS, 323, 341, 343; topography, 416-17; inequality, 421, 433-4; repression and torture, #224; ethnicity and violence, 425-6, 434-8, SL1, 530-1; independence, 425-7; and foreign aid, 427-8, 528-9; Anglo- Leasing fraud, 433; and China, 496, 506 Kenya Central Bank, 429-30 Kenyatta, oma, 43, 66, 84,135, 423, 426-7 Kenyatta, Uhuru, 431 Khalid, Mansour, 163 Khama, Seretse, 65 Khama clan, 65 toum, 42, 163, 188-92, 441 rebellion in, 81; government in, 159, 168, 168, 179, 183, 187, 191, 194, 197, 803, 508; siege of, 160-1; US bombing of, 178: Acropole hotel, 192; and ruling elite, 193-4, 197-8 bat, 96, 117-18, 12041, 124 Kibaki, Mwai, 89, 431-4, 436-7, 528 Kibera, 421, 435, 437, 542 kidnapping, 455, 458, 524 Kiev, 361 Kigali, 234, 237, 239, 242-8, 246. 249, 251 Kiganda ceremonies, 549 Bikoys, 25 Kikuyu people, 66, 425-6, 434-8, 525 Kimberley, 297 Kincaid, Jamaica, 286 King Leopold's Ghast (Hochschild), 489 King’s African Rifles, 39 Kingsolver, Barbara, 71 Kinnoek, Nei Kinshasa, 213, 366, 368-9, 371, 376, 379, 489; and Rwandan invasion, 250-2, 362; slums, 263 Kinyarwanda language, 247 Kisangani, 252, 361, 369 Kisumu, 43 Kitchener, General Herky Kiwanuka, Benedicto, 46 Kiyingi, Willie, 33-4, 77 Kongor, 170 Kony, Joseph, 524 Koran, 120-1, 185, 256, 259-60, 312 Korea, 11, 265, 484-5 Koroma, Jobnny Paul, 303-4 Kosowe, 5 Kouroussa, 316 Krebs, Verena, 100 Krio English, 202 Kroll Associates, 433 Kukah, Father Matthew, 445, 473 Kulei, Joshua, 429 Kuria, Gibson, 424, 432 Kuti, Beko Ransome, 472-3 Kuti, Fela, 472 Kuwait, 100, 107,178 KwaZuhi Natal, 238-9, 321, 402-4; and AIDS, 335, 339 Labour Party, 150, 499 Lagos, 38, 439-40, 509-10, 821-2, 527; dangers in, 189-9 population of, 440; airport, 441-45 and elites, 466-8; prisons, 468; and elections, 479 Lagos Business School, 463 Lake Tanganyika, 228 Lake Victoria, 13, 162, 435 Lancaster House Agreement, 133, 136-7, 139, 146, 400 land: availability of, 22; anti-colonial struggle for, 40; loss of tenure, 61; and agriculture, 6%; investment in, 269-70; reform, 531, 536-7 Lander, Richard and John, 455, 458 Langi people, 46 languages, African, 52, 286 Latin America (South America), 5, 265, 276, 408-9, 486, 512, 535 Laye, Camara, 316 League of N.Leahy, Sir John, 213 Lebanese, 274, $26; and diamonds, 294, 300, 309 Lebowa, 400 Lee Kuan Yew, 272 Leintwardine, 287-8 Lemarchand, René, 231 Menpard men’, 302-3 Leopold 1, King of Belgium, 67, 79, 365-6, 450 lepers, 287 Lesori (Samburu Jforan), 416-19 Lesotho, 64, 394, 401 Libenge, 375. Liberia, 66, 82, 294, 530; and stare collapse, 86, 282, 441, 529; and front-line intervention, 109, 196; and aid agencies, 168; constitution, 202; and ‘leopard men’, 302; and child soldiers, 329 Libuti, General Frank, 110 Libya, 46, 198 Lindyer, Koert, 415-16, 419, 437 Lisbon, 203, 207, 498 Lissala, 373 Lissamba, Pascal, 218 Liu Guijin, 505 Live Aid, 327 Liverpool, 94 Lo, Ahmadon, 257, 259-60 Loango National Park, 501 Lobito, 213 Lokichoggio, 171-2 London, 44, 50, 80, 130, 138, L444, 339, 365, $21, 527; Africans in, 2; Somali community, 94; ‘arrest’ of Mugabe, 150; Angolan ambassador, 210; former slaves in, 291; diamond market, 298-300; ANC meeting, 402; and Goldenberg fraud, 429-30; and 419 scams, 446-7: and corruption, 450-1; and images of Africa, 815, 527; and telecoms, 517, 519-20, 525; and African diaspora, 5.35 London School of Economics, 77 London University, 128 Lord of the Flies (Golding), 325 Index 565 Lord's Resistance Army (LRA), 198, 524 Louis XIV, King, 78 Lozi people, 64 Luachino, Luanda, 199-2 bombing of, 217; US embassy, 217; housing in, 220; Chinese rebuilding of, 498 Lubumbashi, 376 Lucapa, 295 Luganda language, 14, 29, 348 Lule, Joseph, 19, 25, 27-9, 33- 270, 336; death and funeral, ‘Olumbe, 845-80 Lule, Michael, 543, 46-7, $49 Lule, Victor, 549 Lumumba, Patrice, 67, 251, 362, 370 Luo people, 426, 435-6, 438 Lusaka, 141 Lutaaya, Philly Bongole, 342 Luvuci, river, 219 Luxembourg, 541 Maathai, Dr Wangari, 334 macawiis, 91,98, 117 McEvedy, Calin, 206 Machar, Riak, 165, 179 Machel, Samora, 133, 135 Mackenzie, Bruce, 43, 44, 84, 426 Madagascar, 9 Maddison, Angus, 262 Magal ceremony, 258, 261 Maghreb, 9, 53 Mahdi (Mohammed Ahmed Ibn Sayyid Abdullah), 160-2 Major, John, 237, 242 Makeba, Miriam, 388 Makgoba, William Malegapuru, 343 Makani, Simba, 156 Malakal, 158 malaria, 322, 833, 358, 465 270-1, 323, 401 Malaya, 11, 58 Malaysia, 265, 269, 485, 507 Mali, LO Maliamungu, Major, 48, 50566 Index Malinke (Mandingos}, 273 Man af the People, A (Achebe), 68, 359, 440 Maneham, James Mandarin, 493-4 Mandela, Nelson, 65, 132, 305, 382, 403-8, 414; and African leader: 77-8; and Mugabe, 152; rejecti 62 of racism, 153, 404; and Burundi, 231; and AEDS, 3445 imprisonmer 394, 396; and ANC succession, 410-12, 532 Manifesto Group, 101, 107 Mansfield, Lord, 290 manufacturing industry, 202, 267-70, 500, 508, 537 Mao Zedong, 489, 491 Maoris, 392 Maputo, 142, 277 marabouts, 257-9, 315, 318 Marburg, 364 Marehan clan, 99) Marlow, 355, Maroons, 292 Marxism, 63, $4, 14, 208, 217, 392-5, 406, 497 Masaka, 48-9 Masekela, Hugh, 388 Masiywa, Strive, 271 Mass Democratic Moven Matabeleland, 139 Matale, 543-4 Mathari Valley, 421, 437 matooke, 26,547 Mau Mau, 11, 305 Mauritania, 61, 256, 493, 530 Mauritius, 265, 268, 281 Maxamed [braahim, 96 Mbarara barracks, 46. Mbeki, Thabo, 151-5, 405-9, 531-3; and AIDS, 330, 342-3, 409, 532; and ANC succession, +10-13, 5 and China, 500 Mbiti, John, 21. Mboya, Tom, 422, 427 MDC (Movement for Democratic Change), 147, 149, 155-7 Médecins Sans Frontieres, 103 ine, 16, 18, 22, 335, 536; magic, 30; Chinese, 484, 493; see alsa anti- retroviral drugs Meditertanean, %, 53, 160, 162, 535 Melilla, 61 Mengistu Haile Mariam, 177, 273 Merowe, 503 Mhone, Helen, 350, 352 MI6, 43, 84,426 Micombero, Michel, 230 middle classes, African, 266, 392, 516, 526-8; Kenyan, 422, 438, 52: Ghanaian, 521; and Zimbabwe, 532; exodus of, 835-6 Middle Bast, 53, 94, 101, 261; stock markets, 515-16 migration, from Africa, 535-6, 538 itary coups, 80-1, 85, 87, 303, 534 Millennium Development Goals (MDGs), 222, 253, 527-8 missionaries, 201, 270, 312, 365 Mitchell, Harry, 56-7, 73 Mitterrand, Frangois, 242 Mkapa, Ben, 150, 501 Mkhatshwa, Eather Smangaliso, 380-2 Mlambo, Philile, 334 MLC (Movement for the Liberation of Congo), 370, 373, 376-8 mobile phones, 88, 122-3, 247, 264, 516, 518-20, 541, 547, 550; andl nomads, 119, 519; and civil wars, 524; and elections, 524-5 Mobutu, Bobi, 371 Mobutu, Joseph Désiré (Mobutu Sese Scko), 34, 71, 85, 213, 272, 366-73, 451; and African values, 67, 78-9; palaces, 80, 371-3, 491; aura of power, $2, 368; overthrown, 218, 361-2; and Rwandan genocide, 248, 280-1, 362; and his wife, 371 Mobutu, Marie Antoinette, 372 Mogadishu, 90, 95, 99-114, 124, 126; weapons market, 101; Digter hospital, 103-6; aid agencies, 107-9; American invasion, 110-14; Chinese and, 488 metMogae, . Mohammed, Ibrahim, 481 Mohammed, Murtala, 441, 445, 453 Moi, Daniel arap, 78, 80, 272, 319, 422-4, 426-82, 435, 528; and Goldenberg fraud, 428-30 Moi, Gideon, 428, 436 Moi, Phillip, 428, 436 Mokaba, 287-8, 294, 299, 306-7 Molepolole, 328 Momoh, Joseph, 294, 301 Monsengwo, Archbishop Laurent, 369-70 Moore, Bill, 104, 106 Movans, 417-19 Morland, Miles, 515-16. Moraceo, 61, 219, 372 Morris, Harvey, 243 Moscow, 83, 154, 204, 209, 365, 393, 515 Mount Kenya, 415 Mount Kilimanjaro, 9 Mountains of the Moon, 517° Mouride community, 255-62, 273 Moyo, Nkosana, 86 Moyo, Onnie, 380-2 Mozambique, 61, 180, 154, 241, $10, 390; and state collapse, 16, 36, 3105 and front-line intervention, 109, 196; and Zimbabwe, 128-9, 181, 138, 137; and South Africa, 141-3, 394, 400; army, 142-3; and aid agencies, 168; economic reform, 277; and China, 489, 493, 501 MPLA (People’s Movement for the Liberation of Angola), 84, 154, 199, 207-8, 210, 212-18, 217, 219, 221, 490-1 Mowati III, King, 64 Mthemba, Jacob, 381 MTN Group, 818 Mubarak, Hosni, 178 Mugabe, Robert, 78, 86, 89, 127-57, 272, 389, 531-2; and African government, 71; background and upbringing, 128-9, 145; imprisonment, 128, 135 independence, 134 5 speech at and the Index 567 British, 136-7, 143, 145, 147, 157, 531; assassination attempts, 137; and white Zimbabweans, 138; war an Ndebele, 18840, 147; and opposition, 146-9; and land ownership, 148-50, 156; attempted ‘arrest’ in London, 150; and Mbeki, 151-5; and Mandela, 152; and China, 490 Mugabe, Sally, 128, 136-7 Muite, Paul, 424 Musenyi, 225 Museveni, Yoweri, 73-4, 80, 233-4, 250, 252, 362; and economy, 280-1; and AIDS, 387, 340-1 musie, 10, 200, 285-6; Congolese, 45, 49, 388; South African, 388; Zul and Xhosa, 388 Muslims, 97, 125; traders, 24; in Sudan, 189, 191-2; in Darfur, 19: and AIDS, 341; Nigerian, 452 and African identity, 540 Mutesa, Frederick, 41, 44 Mathare Valley, 421 Mrsi, 317 Muzorewa, Bishop Abel, 131 Mwanawasa, Levy, 507 My African Jorrrney (Churchill), 36 Nacala, $01 Nairobi, 99, 179, 184, 239, 361, 383, 420-4, 527; US embassy bombing, 123; dangers in, 189-90, slums, 263, 421, 435, $42; Karen Club, 420-1; torture and robbery in, demonstrations, 423-4, d Goldenberg, fraud, 429-30, 433; and ethnic divisions, 437 Namboze, Professor Josephine, 28, 546-7 Namibia, 2, 180, 140, 214, 400; land ownership, 150; basters, 201; and invasion of Congo, 252; and diamonds, 297; independence struggle, 305-6 nation states, 3, 52, 54, 63-4, 267 National Africa Company, 450, 4545G8 Index National Party (South Affi 400 National Resistance Army, 233 nationalism, 3, 62-3, 66, 130 black, 386, 899; Zulu, 403. nationalization, 75-6, 270-1, 273, 405 natural resources, 55, 68, 266-7, 515, 536; ‘resource curse’ theory, 53, 296; and wars, 300; China and, 486, 495, 500, 504, 508, 526 Naude, Dr Beyers, 383 Nuadaye, Melchior, 224, 231, 239 Nuebele people, 138-40, 400 Nuola, 493 Ndore, Major, 246-7 Neilson, Trevor, $29, 345 NEPAD (New Partnership for Mf Development), 152, 254, 503, Netherlands, 390; se¢ erfro Holland Nevirapine, 343 New Brighton, 386 New Orleans floods, 6 New York, 80, 339, 440, 466, 515, 527, 547; Africans in, 2; Mobutu and, 34, 371; Mouride community, 260-1; 9/11 attacks, 278; diamond market, 298; and Goldenberg fraud, 429-30; and African diaspora, $38 New Zealand, 392 Nguesso, Sasso, 88 Nicholson, Kevin, 307 Niger, river, 454-5 Niger Delta, 449, 454-6, 459-61, 476, 501,524 Nigeria, 10, 30, 71, 85, 89, 262, 310, 459-83, 510; ethnicity and languages, 3, 63, 452-45 and state collapse, 3-6, 262, 310; military coups and rule, 38, 80-1, 83, 453, 462; independence, 68; returned slaves, 202: and oil and gas, 263, 282, 441, 445, 454-63, 475-8, 493, 802, 538; palm oil production, 269, 454-5, 460; economy, 271, 282, 462, 465, 521-4; production, 275; and corruption, 282, 446-51, 466, 476-8; and Sierra Leone, 303-4; and Biafran ), 62, 389, 2675 ce war, 305; and witcherafi, 313: and population, 441, 45 drugs trade, 444-5; sense of identity, 451-2; elections, 452, 470, 472-3, 478-83; and religion, 452-2; reputation for violence, 45 constitution, 462, 477; inequ. and poverty, 463-6; and clites, 466-8, 472; debt write-off, 477-8; and China, 493, 497-8, $04; and telecoms, 518-19, 522; fragility of, 531; and agriculture, 536 Nigerian Central Bank, 445, 452, 471 Nile, river, 40, 46, 160-2, 188-9, 198, 198; White Nile, 158, 189, 192, Blue Nile, 163, 188-9; Chinese dam projeer, 503 Nixon, Richard, 491 Njonjo, Charles, 426 Nkokonjero, 15 Nkomo, Joshua, 133, 139-40, 154, 389, 490 Nkondo, Curt Nkroful, 66 Nkrumah, Kwame, 57-8, 64, 66, 69, 135, 184 Nkurunziza, Pierre, 231-2 nomads, 91, 97, 116-21, 519; and education, 120; women, 120-1; and Darfur, 194-5 Norman, Hinga, 304 North Africa, 9, 195 North Koreans, 139, 376, 485 Northern Ireland, 16, 382, 390 Norway, 449 Norwegian People’s Aid, 180 Notting Hill, 127, 130 Nova Scoria, 291-2 Neambya, 543-4, 546 Nsengiyaremye, Thadée, 239 Neeturuye, Jean-Baptiste, 225-6 nuclear weapons, 401-2 Nuer people, 165-6 Nujoma, Sam, 150 Numeiri, Jaafar, 43, 81 Nuyon, William, 165 Nyanga, 143 Nyerere, Julius, 42, 65, 68, 75; 396-7and army mutiny, 84-8; and Mugabe, 129, 138; and Burun; 281; and economy, 270 Oakley, Robert, 110 Obasanjo, Olusegun, 446, 448, 450, 453, 464, 473-80, 522, 533 Obie, King, 455 Obote, Milton, 41-7, 65, 517 ocadas, 52 Ocean and Oil Holdings, Odi, 76 Odinga, Oginga, 426-7, 431 Odinga, Raila, 431-2, 434-5, 437 Ogaden, 93, 125, 492 Ogadenis, 120 Ogoni people, 456 oil, 53, 107, 278, 514, 536; and Angola, 84, 209, 211, 216-17, 220-1, 281-2, 297; and Sudan, 192-3, 195-8; and enclave economies, 222; and Ni 63, 282, 441, 445, 454-63, 475-8, 493, 502; price of, 267, 445, 476; and Kenya, 428, 427; China and, 493, 495, 303-4, 808; and democracy, 538-9 Okonjo-Ipweala, Ngozi, 477 Obri, Ben, 314, 318 Olanari, Nelson Aziba, 456-62 Ollina, Sister Marie, 375 Olubiri, 455, 459, 464 Omdurman, 186, 189, 192; battle of, 161 one-party states, 75-6, 79, 87, 275 Oppenheimer family, 300 Organization of African Uni orphans, 324, 327-30, 343, 347, 540 Osifo, Osaze, §21-2, 536 Ottoman rulers, 159-60, 162, 197 Otuasega, 457 Quko, Robert, 422, 432 (Out af Afric (Dinesen}, $22 Ovimibundu people, 208 Oxtim, 4, 248, 272 Oye, 480 Oyugi, Hezekiah, 432 Index 569 Pahadl, Essop, 411 Paisley, Ian, 391 Palermo, 365 Palestine palm oil, 202, 269, 454-5, 460 Pan Africanist Congress, 154, 392, 394 Pan-African Investment, 520 Panama, 429 Panyagor, 158-9, 165-6, 171 Paphos, 361 Papua New Guinea, 499 Parajok, 176 parastatal companies, 270-1 Paris, 2,80, 161, 255, 339, 363, 371, 36 Parkinson, Lord, 428 Paton, Alan, 321 Patni, Kamlesh, 428-30, 432 Perry, Ruth, 66 Persian Gulf, 361 Philippines, 265 Phillips, Mr, 387 Pityana, Barney, 396-7 Please, Stanley, 273 Pliny the Elder, $11 Plymouth, 291 poetry, Somali, 91-2, 96-7 Poisoniwood Bille, The (Kingsolver), 71 Pol Pot, 157 political geography, 266-7 political parties, 21, 70, 73-5 Polokwane conference, 412-13, 532 polygamy, 336-7 population growth, 539-40 Poro, 302 Port Elizabeth, 401, 456, 462 Port Harcourt, 313, 459 Portugal, 535; and Africa, 86, 60-1, 203-4, 206-9, 365, 488; and Angola, 61, 201, 203-4, 207-9; and Mozambique, 61, 128, 20% army, 180; and slave trade, 203-4, 206, 293; and decolonization, 389 Portuguese Communist Party, 207 Portuguese language, 200 pottery, Chinese, 486, 488 Powell, Colin, 444 press freedom, 88, 497570 Index 87-8, 279, Prophet Mohammed, 312 Protestants, 16, 41, 390-1 proverbs, 272, 358 Punia, 250 Puntland, 90, 128 10, 518 Qwaqwa, 400 railways, 266, 452; Chinese and, 489-90, 500, 526 Ramaphosa, Cyril, 410-11, 413 rape, 188, 282, 284, 289, 302 Rawlings, Jerry, 216, 272 Reagan, Ronald, 132, 211, 334 recone 134, 138,154, 254, 305, 401, 436, 540 Red Cross, 99, 108-9, 215, 219, 242, 248 Red Se 160 religion, traditional, 312-20, 549-50, Remote Carners (Mitchell), 56 Renamo, 131, 137, 141-3 Resim, river, 415, 419 Responsibility to Protect, 238 Rhodes, Ceeil, 144-5 Rhodesia, 12, 73, 127-36, 201, 389, 3,85, 94, 101, 119, 122, 400, 424; army, 129-31, 133; UDI, 129, 138; and British sanctions, 129, 133, 145; elections, 131 133-4; land ownership, 134, 146; and South Africa, 151; see ato Zimbabwe Ribadu, Nuhu, +77 Ribeiro, Alberto, 199 rice, 268, 275, 484 Rift Valley, 228, 435, 437 Rio Tinto, 506 river blindness, 310, 315 Riyadh, 119 Riza, Syed Iqbal, 237, 240 Robben Island, 396 Robertson, John, 220 Roman Empire, 53, 56-7 Romania, 220 Rorich, Bishop Gabriel, 190-1 Royal African Company, 208 Royal Air Force, 4 y, 129, 292 RPE (Rwandan Patriotic Front), 234, 239, 242, 244-5, 249, 252 rubber, 202, 206, 217, 365, 489, 536 RUE (Revolutionary United Front), 289, 294, 301-5 rugby, 390, 404 rule of law, 87, 272, 277, 503, 534 rulers, African, 34, 44, 55; post- independence, 51, 63-89, 143-4 and dictatorship, 70-1, 151, 272-3; Big Men, 76-8, 82, 318, 336; and childhood poverty, 77-8; military dictators, 80-1; and aura of power, 81-2; and patriarchy, 82a; and Cold War, 83 colonial powers, 86; end of dictators, 87-9; and economic failure, 266, 270-3, 282; and traditional religion, 318; and AIDS, 345; and infrastructure projects, 498 Russia, and diamond production, 300; see also Soviet Union far, 83-5; and former front tervention, 109: genocide, 109,115, 168, 187,224, 30, 235-50, 252, 254, 524, 529-30; and aid 228, 252-4; colonial history, 227-8; precolonial history, 228-9; Hutu-Tutsi divide, 232-4, 252-4; land ownership, 232. independence, 233, elections, 233; failure of world leaders, 237-8; murder of Belgians, 238, 243; army, 249-80, 283: invasion of Congo, 249-52, 254, 362; health and education, 253; justice system, 253-4; economy, 280-1; war crimes trials, 304; fisture of, 528 Rwigema, Fred, 233 Sahara desert, 194-5, 455, 535; Africanorth of, LO, 5: 208; see also sub Sahel, 9, 237 Saho peaple, 93 Saitoti, George, 429 Salazar, Antonio de Oliveira, 208 Salisbury, see Harare salt, 18, 116-17, 121, 361, 457, $44 Samburu people, 415-1 passage, 417-18; religion, 418 Sampson, Anthony, 396 San Francisco, 296, 339 Sangolo, Jean Bosco, 369 Sangomas, 317 Sani, Ahmed, 445, 452-3 Sankara, Captain Thomas, 80-1 Sankoh, Foday, 302-4 Sao Tomé, 203 Sardanis, Andrew, 271 Sardinia, 375 Sarkozy, Nicolas, 60 Saro-Wiwa, Ken, 456, 501-2 Sata, Michael, 501 Saudi Arabia, 85,97, 119, 195 Save the Children Fund, 45, 102-8 Savimbi, Jonas, 82, 84, 199, 211-19, 222, 297, 490 school fees, 17-18, 20, 22, 33, 285, 329, 367, 465-6, 536, 544 Schulte, Father Dieter, 135 Second World War, 12, 25, 39, 66, 92, 207, 230, 233, 265, 425; Africa and, 57; lan Smith and, 132; Afrikaners and, 389 Schssic, Haile, 65 Senegal, 10, 62, 68, 79, 161-2, 208, 255-62, 268, 310; elections, 257, 262; Mouride population, 261 273; economy, 262, 270, 273, and AIDS, 340-1; dress in, 388; and China, 487, 493 Senghor, Leopold, 68, 208, 262 Serbia, § Setswana language, 281 sexual morality, 27 vychelles, 62 Shaband, 126 slave trade, 195, Saharan Africa rites of Index 571 Shakespeare, William, 314, 411 Shanghai, 486 Sharia law, 124, 452 Sharjah, 361 Sharpeville massacre, 383 Shearer, David, 102 Shell oil company, 458, 460-1, 501-2 shell states, 366 Shilluk people, 165, 179 Shintoism, 317 Shona people, 188-40, 149 Short, Clare, 150 Sibanda (healer), 322 Sierra Leone, $6, 238, 241, 284-97, 301-12, 320, 530; and state collapse, 36, 282, 441, 529; elections, 73, 303; and front-line intervention, 109, 196; returned slaves, 202, economy, 271, 293-4, 514; diamonds, 288, 294-7, 300, 304. 309; boy soldiers in, 288-9, 302; British settlement, 290-3; Saturday cleaning, 301; seeret socicties and ‘leopard men’, 302=3; war crimes trials, 304-5 307; and tradi 315, 320, and telecoms, Singapore, 42-3 Sisulu, Walter, 411 Slater, Richard, 43-4 slavery and slave trade, 82, 54, 62, 93, 201-7, 211, 217; Arabs and, 160, 162, 193, 195, 202; Portuguese and, 203-4, 206; profits from, 205; within Africa, 205, and Rwanda and Burundi, 228; and Sierra Leone, 290; and Congo, 365; and South Africa, 391; and Nigeria, 448, 455 Slovenia, 5 Smith, Jan, 128-9, 131-3, 135, 137-9, 144, 151, 157, 389 Soames, Christopher, 133, 135-6, 145 *Sobels', 289 Sokota, 2 Somaia, Ketan, 428 Somalia, 90-126, 216, 241, 519; and state collapse, 36, 53, 94, 99-101, co-nperative movement,572 Index 262, 511, §29-30; strategic importance, 8, 101; topography, 90-1, 116; ethnicity and language, 93, 97-8, 2815 clan politics, 97-8, 115, 122-4; interim government, 101; famine, 105, 1105 aid ay and, 107-9, 115 intervention, 109; American invasion, 110-15, 236; economy and front: Courts, 123-5; and aid agencies, 168; trading system, 261-2; and 6,128 Somalis, 30, 53, 90-8; physiognomy, 90, 93; and camels, 91, 96-7, 1205 women, 91, 96-7; language, 92-3; xenophobia, 93; and Africans, 94, 96; and animal poaching, 95; and religion, 97, 12 a, 122; individualism, 124; trading spstem, 261-2; Chinese and, 488 Somerset case, 290 South Attica, LO, 12, 64, 80, 128, 215, 241, 380-414, 424; white South Africans, 80, 389-92, 40 lee Sor apartheid era, 32, 42, 44, 62, 85, 132, 136, 138, 140-3, 150-1, 154, 200-1, 209, 344, 380-402, 421, 427,456, 489, 504, 529-30, 533; and necklacing, 35; colonization by race, 61-2; black resistance, 81, 130-2; and African leadership, 86; clections, 88, 238-9, 243, 40: and Rhodesia/Zimbabwe, 12! 181-4, 137, 139-42, 147, 151-5, 476, 532; army, 130, 143; and Angola, 131, 141, 209, 212, 214, 216, 222, 490; British and, 136, 141-3, 154; and Namibia, 140; and Mozambique, 141; economy, 141, 263, 265, 398-9, 404-9, 413, 509, dl front line states, 141~: 30; land ownership, 148, 153; post-apartheid, 152-3, 238-9, 305, 403-14; Coloured” population, 201, 392, 398, 400; settlers, 201-2; manufacturing industries, 202, 268, 500, $05; and diamonds, 297-8, 300; and traditional religion, 317; and AIDS, 321-2, 328, 330-1, 334, 338, 340, 342-6, 408; and old age pensions, 347-8; sporting boycott, 384; declaration of republic, 389; demography, 390, 392, 398; Indian population, 392, 398-9; liberation ideologies, 392-7; homeland policy, 398, 400-1; nuclear weapons, 401-25 foreign investment, 405-6; crime and policing, 408, 413; power cuts, 408-9, 509; xenophobia, 409-10, 533; constitution, 414, $33; and 419 scams, 447; and China, 488-9, 493, 498, 500, 505; and NEPAD, cons South Afri South African Communist Party, 393 South African Council of Churches, 307 South America, see Latin America South Adantic, 401 Southern African Des Community, 142 Soviet Union, 51, 88-9, 154, 253; and Cold War, 83-4, 272-3; and Angola, 84, 199, 209, 215-16, 368, 394; collapse of, 86, 423; and Somalia, 101; and Zimbabwe, 154; and Rwanda, 233; and diamonds, 298; and Mozambique, 394; and South Africa, 3945 and Kem 426-7; and China, 490-1 349, 385, 398; uprising, 131, n Club, 387-8 Jopment Sowel ind Africa, 60-1, 36: n, 389 Special Eeonomie Processing Zones, 508 spirits and spirit world, 3, 18, 18, 30, 71, 312-20; and aura of power, 82, 3118; and traditional religion,312-20; and ancestors, 314, 317, 326, 4185 and cannibalism, 319 panda, Henry, 16, 20, 23-4, 27, 29 Stalin, Josef, 216, 249, 364 Standard Bank, 506 Stellenbosch University, 493 Stevens, Sinka, 271, 293-4 Strasser, Valentine, 301, 303 Straw, Jack, 496 Structural Adjustment Programme (SAP), 276 sub-Saharan a Ss 1 9-10; conquest of, 83-8: elections in, 38-9; economic production, 263, 267-8, 281-2; and AIDS, 322-8; and power of ancestors, 314; population of, 441; demography, 540 Sudan, 42, 81, 158-98, 241, 310; Anya-Nya rebellion, 42-3, 163-4, and front-line intervention, 109; history, 159-63; hnicity and languages, 159; north-south divide, 159, 162, 191, 194; and religion, 162, 177-8, 193; independence, 163; separatist wars, 163-5, 186, 191, 194; army, 164, 179, 196-7. and aid agencies, 165-9, 173; Triple Accamps, 174-5; and terrorism 178; air force, 180-1; front lines, 184-5; and oil, 192-3, 195-8; coups, 192-3; north-south peace 194-5, 530; and Darfur, 194-8; elections, 198; and of Congo, 252; businesses in, 274, and state collapse, 282, 310; and China, 495, 497, 503-6; fragility of, 530-1 Sudan People’s Liberation Army (SPLA), 163-6, 168-9, 174-7, 178-84, 187-8, 191; reernitment and training, 178-9; local officials, 186-7; and rape, 188; and Darfur, 195; and black Africa, 198 Sudd, the, 158, 166, 169 Suez Canal, 58, 160 Sufi Islam, 97, 124, 255 sugar, 203, 217, 267, 281, 544 wasion Index 573 Suharto, 465, SWAPO (South West Africa People’s Organization), 130, 305-6 Swaziland, 64, 394, 401; and 328, 333, 348 Switzerland, 372 ‘Tanganyika, 202, 543 Tanzam Railway, 489-90 Tanzania, 65, 68, 135, 150,231, 244-5; and Amin, 42-3, 47; elections, 78; US embassy bor 123, 380; and Kabila’s exile, 362; economy, 270; and China, 501; fishermen, 519 tassawnf Sufism, 255 Tatchell, Peter, 150 Tate, John, 384 Tax Justice Network, 53 taxes, 277, 501; tax farming, 367 Taylor, Charles, 82, 294, 304, 319 20 telew telexes, $1 7-18 Thailand, 332 ‘Thames, river, # ‘Thatcher, Margaret, 132-3, 136-7, 141-3, 145, 154, £03, 406, 427 ‘The Hague, 305 Theroux, Paul, 33 third world, 265-6, 512, 546 iananmen Square, #91, 494 Tibaijuka, Anna, 155. Tigray, 177 timber, 202, 283, 361, 365 Timbuktu, 455 Times, The, 4, 238, 240 Togo, 81 Tokyo, 527 Tom, King, 291 Touba, 257-61 Toulmin, Camilla, 539 Touré, Ahmed Sekou, 68, 533 trade, 87, 266-7, 273-4; and China, 486-8, 493, 497, 500~ 515; removal of barriers, 534, trade unions, 401, 412, 500 jon, 124; satellit and aid, 8574 Index Transkei, 400 ‘Transparency International, 446, 47: 535 ‘Treatment Action Campaign, 342 tribalism, 51-3, 97-8, 281 Troon, John, 432 Trout, Tony, 158, 165-6, 171-2 Trujillo, Cardinal Lopes, 336 trust, lack of, 255, 260-1, 274 Truth and Reconei jon Commission, ‘Tshabalala-Msimang, Manto, 344 ‘Tshwane, 382 Morgan, 147, 154-6 Tswana people, 53, 45, 281 tuberculosis, 322, 324 ‘Turabi, Hassan, 177, 193 Tutsis, 24-8, 115, 224-84, 236-7, 239-43, 250, 362; intermarriage, 227-8; and precolonial Africa, gs of, 245-6; survivors, 249; and post-con 253-4, 530 Tutu, Archbishop Desmond, 344, 397, 399 Tyson, Mike, 301 ict Rwanda, Ubangi, river, 383, 373 Ubogu, Vietor, 404 igjali, 841 Uganda, 11-50, 64, 71, 85, 94, 126, 130, 187, 269, 382, 386, 533; climate and topography, 13-14; Christian missionaries, 15-16; and state collapse, L6, 28-9, 36-7; fertility, 22-3, 288, independenee, 28, 39-42, 64; Churchill's visit, 36; army, 39, 41-3, 46-8; ethnicity demography, 40-1, 228; ane democracy in, 42; Asian community, 43, 47; and mixed relationships, 45, 48; self-sufficiency, 49; and aid, 49, 527-8; clections, 72-3; and Somalia, 126; and Sudan, 174-5, 198; and front-line intervention, 196; and Reanda, 233-4, 242, 244, 247-8, 250; and Congo, 250-2, 370, 375, 377; coffee production, 269; economy, 280; and AIDS, 323, 336-7, 840-2; and child soldiers, 329; and China, 484, 487, 493; reaction to new things, $13-14: and telecoms, $17; author’s return, 544-6 Ukraine, 361 Ulster, 390-1 Umar, Suni, 2 Umkhonto we Sizwe, 130, 410 Unilazi, 403 United Nations, 6, 59, 128, 283, 535-6; decolonization resolutions, 61, 140; and Somalia, 95, 10: 114-18, 118; and Rwanda, 115; and Iraq war, 150; and Zimbabwe, 155; and Sudan, 165, 167-9, 176, 178, 180, 191; and Darfur, 196-7, 505; planes shot down, 219; and Burundi, 231; and Rwanda, 236-7, 240, 242, 248, 250; and African economies, 263-4; troops captured, 304; and Kenya, 427, 437; and Nigeria, 440; China and, 487, 495; Congo peace-keeping operation, 545 UN Human Development Index, 220, 263 UNAIDS, 322 Unicef, 328 UNITA (National Union for the Total Independence of Angola), 142, 154 199-200, 208, 211, 212-19, 221, 251, 297 United African National Congress parry, 131 United Democratic Front, 382, 397 United States of America, 6, 51, 80. 278, 278, 285, 483; and Ugandan Asians, 47; and European imperialism, 57; and Suez. crisis, 5 and decolonization, 62; and Cold War, 83-4; and Ango 209, 211-12, 216-19, 490-1, 49: and Affican rulers, 85; and Somali 101, 107, 110-15, 123-5, 236, 530; and Rwanda, 115, 236, 249,253; and ‘war on terror’, 124-5, 278, 4275 and Rhodesia/Zimbabwe, 131-4, 181, 157; and South Africa, 141, 181, 154; and Sudan, 164, 177-8, 193-4, 196-7, 530; returned slaves, 202; and slave trade, 205; oil imports, 217; Congo, 249, 251; trade with Africa, 268-9; and Sierra Leone, 304; and AIDS, 334, 345; backing, for Mobutu, 366, 386, and native Americans, 392; and immigration, 399; and Kenya, £23, 427, 4375 corruption, 446, 449; and Nigerian elites, 466, £68; and Nigeria, 476, 478; and China in Attica, 48: 491, 497-9, 504-5, 507-8; manufactured goods, 493; and African diaspora, $35-6, 541; and protectionism, 538 US Congress, 217 US Drug Enforcement Agene US Fifth Fleet, 125 US Navy Seals, 111-12 unity, African, 267 Urundi, see Burundi Utomi, Pat, 463 nd invasion of a4 Valence (RPE fighter), 246-7 van Boxelaere, Wim, 107 Vancouver, 115 Vaughan Williams, Ralph, 102 fonda, 400-1 Venice, 260 Vietnam, 12, 40, 58, 106, 269, 507 Virgin Mary, 67 rginity, 336 Vorster, John, 151 Wabenzi tribe, 518 Wade, Abdullai, 262 Wohabi Islam, 97, 124, 160 ‘ala, Brigadier, 219 alls, General, 135 Wamala, Cardinal Emma Warriors (Hanley wars, Affican, 22; and world attention, Index 575 and genocide, 241; and forgiveness, 305; and child soldiers, 330; reduction in, 529-30; see miso civil wars Washington consensus, 7, 277 weddings, 18, 22, 285, 544 Wen Jiaban, 494 West Africa, 10, 71,83, 291, 441, 530, $36; European land grab, 545 France and, 66, 68; and slave trade, 208; and oil, 217; and trade, 260, d corruption, 278; and traditional religion, 312, 314-15, 318; and AIDS, 323; and 419 seams, 447; economic opportunities, West Nile, West Side Boys, 303-4 Western media, ane nationalist Western Whaserer Happened to the Jewel (Schultz), 135 Whisky Delta, 172-7 White Fathers, 13 White Mischief, 422 Whiteside, Alan, 339, 342, 347 William ITI, King, 390 Williams, Dr Dennis, 309-10 Williams, Ishola, 472 Williams, Ruth, 65 Winterveld, 380, 382, 386 witch doctors, 315, 317, 335 witcherafi, 212, 313, 315, 317-19, #18, 550 Wolof kingdom, 255 wood, se timber Woods, Donald, 394 Worcester, 11-12 Worki Bank, 6, L@, 37,80, 115, 489, nd African economies, 75, 87, 263, 266, 270, 272-3, 276-7, 280-2, 515; backing for Mobutu, 79, 378; and Kenya, 429, 431, 436, 528; and China in Africa, 497; estimates of capital flight, 534-5576 Index World Food Programme, 172, 174, 244,247 World Health Organization, 329, 546 World Trade Organization, 487 World Vision, 248 Xhosa language, 340 65, 238, 404 Xhoss people, Xuscen, Cumar (‘Ostrect "), 96, 119 Yamoussoukro, 67 Yar'Adua, Umar, 453, 478-9, 481-2 ‘hu, 478-9 Yar"Udua, Si Yemen, 100 Yoane, Commander Abraham Wana, 184-5 Yoruba people, +52-3 Youlon, Fulbert, 68 Yugoslavia, former, 5 Yussuf, Abdul Samadu, 481 Yusuf, Abdillahi, 90, 123, 126 Zagawa people, 198 . se Congo Za Zambe ADS Zambia, 36, 65, 128, 140, 153; independence, 64; and Rhodesk 133; and South frien, 141-2, 400; white settlers, 201; power station bombed, 218; economy, 270-1 witchcraft, 318-19; and China, 489-90, 493, 501, 505, 507; and Zimbabwe, 532 Zamfara stat ZANLA (Zimbabwe African National eration Army), 133 Zimbabwe African National Union), 127-8, 130-1, 133-4, 137, and 139-40, 144, 147, 153-4, 156-7, 490 Zanzibar islands, 202 ZAPU (Zimbabwe African Peop! Union), 130, 133, 139-40, 154, 490 Zenawi, Meles, 280 Zheng He, 487-8 Zimbabwe, 6, 61, 86, 127-87, 409, ; Neil Kinnock and, 725 elections, 73, 89, 133-4, 138-9, 155-7, 24-5; independence, 134-6, 148, 156, 305; repressive laws, 187; air foree, 137; white farmers, 138, 140, 143, 146, 148-9, 152, 157, 426; ethnicity, 138-40; Matabeleland massac 139; economy, 141, 145, 147, 149, 155-6, 271; and South Africa, 141-2, 400; army, 142-3; Heroes’ Day, 146; ‘war veterans’, 146-9, 156-7; opposition movement, 147; constitutional referendum, 147, 149; land ownership, 148~50, 153, 156; Operation Murambatsvina, 155; and front-line intervention, 196; and invasion of Conge, 251-2, 362; and entrepreneurs, 271-2; and AIDS, 341; and China, 490, 493, 803; parli Afeican Union and, 534; see ao Rhodesia Zimbabwean Fifth Brigade, 139 ZIPRA (Zimbabwe People’s Revolutionary Army}, 1 Zulu empire, 71 Zulu language, 21, 340 Zulus, 238, 402 412 Zuma, Ja nent, 51 3, 139 raditional dres cob, 343-5, 412-13, 532 1 324-6 King, 404 Zungu, Zwveletin