le SPRING 2014 Bur FOCUS ON FABRIC Professional care tips, sewing products for every fiber, and perfect stitch settings STYLE GUIDE mm, Asimple zip-up ~ to wear 3 ways Fashion Sewing Pattern Inser +23 more styles to download! ROCK 'N} ROLL Fashion designs that follow a modern beat hy 9105 Figure- flattering wardrobe 1 | | | | : | basics | Easy styles fora mid-seas warm-weather getawayHi j) y fe , 20 gail ai very sewist knows: ‘The difference is in the details. Make your sewing shine with gorgeous -and easy-embroidery from Janome. Choose from a range of features and prices—and Janome's legendary reliability always comes standard. Memory Horizon Memory Craft 15000 Memory Craft 9900 Craft 9900 + 480 builtin embroidery designsincluding | 175 built-in embroidery designs, a So ee | designer excuses, inudingdesignsby Jane Spoar of + Witeles connection to PCand iPad” (uittPoetry for design transfer and 2 avalable + AcuGuide Automatic Cloth Gude for S iPad® apps: Acudit and AcaMonitor precision perfect seams nee + 500 built-in stitches induding + 200 built-in itches including — 1B one-step buttonholes one-step butonholes I Tofndan uted lame desler arya inthe USA sane co or 1-80-76 EWS) onus on Facebok TiterBurdaStyle C O ry) FROM THE EDITOR Sr sha ao aso eo kere CT Pere tert Eni eran Osan) Pe MOTTA: ERO an tatiana See UCS FeO NNR a Cc ze ONLINE LEARNING TUNE IN TO INTERACTIVE EMINARS, DOWNLOAD DRIAL, AND FIND THE REAMING VIDEOS YOUR SKI EXCLUSIVE TECHNIQUE KITS LOOK FOR LIMITED: MONTHLY KITS THAT BUNDLE BEST-SELLING WEB SEMINARS, DETAILED J INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEOS, PATTERNS, AND MORE, i TION 80 YOU TRICKY T al WE y OUR MEMBERS! Look for member profiles, featured projects, sewing competitions, and photo galleries. Join our community! TREND SPOTLIGHTS WE BREAK DOWN THE MASH-UPS See your favorite patterns from the magazine, remixed by burdastyle editors! seaino 2018 burdasivleSPI 014 BurdaStyle Sammars = fashion ‘a camera teady update “COVER STORY 48. SAIL AWAY Pack your bags with thesodressed-up styles that aro caling fra vacation “COVERS ME RETRO ROMANTIC BACK TO BASICS Spring colors straight from the garden Simple cuts and everyday detals. Page 40, “coven SOR” - diy trends 4 & styling Py rionerre 16 vinner F Blue buds Add an unexpected fringe using bring tis an old Tshirt sess tote 18 HEAD BANDS Page 12 Complete your ‘do with a IY stylzod band DEEP-V HIGH STYLE Complete your lok with on trend | avcossories, Take the plunge with @notce-me Page 38 neckline 21. RADIANT AMETHYST Adon ae th shining shades of llac 22 REAUTY Spring makeup colors and porfect hair 58. AN APFAIN TO REMEMBER Turquoise m season's hotest a 46 CASUAL FRIDAY avcessoris that wil yond 910 STEP IT UP Casual gots elevate. Page 40 take you 60 CooL mL. Style a zip-up in thre ttorant ways “COVER STORY Re i ag 2. burdasiyle.com sPniNe 20741 RIGKIAMANTICIPAL UA a 7 ANIIN haat) ANOVO Was aed pd AA), . rads PL ae yet NUE flagship BERNINA sewing, embroidering and § quitting machine. tt boasts plenty of space, high speeds and an extra-large work surface, Unleash your inner artist by creating your ‘own stitch patterns using Stitch Designer. Be more creative by changing the look of stitch patterns with the Distortion function. Experiment with color # using the Color Wheel before embroidering.inside SPRING 2014 READY TO ROCK DIY gemstone adornments, Page 21 sewing The latast sowing products, RENEGADE ROMANCE Retro gets a pretty twist. Page 54 ial ender Tips and techniques for purchasing and caring for fabric senses eh in every issue Setting and accessories fr " 9 Tor 10 sewing diferent labrics The unique sewing tol you cant OVER STOR ve without 108. SEW THIS — RUBBLE TOP. 112 TIMELESS Your siap-by-step guide to seainga =: REFINERY Avintage dress stays sweet bubble blouse Daytime shapes soften for spring. Page 32 ina dating floral pant PERPECY PALETTE Stock your best beauty bao Page 22 ‘Separates made for rocking ou Page 26 COVER STOR! 4 burdasiyle.com sPnine 2074ROWAN Classic Colors. Timeless Sophistication. ee Hapi Voile Any Butler1 5 Tt EAS N for warm: thoughts, new beginnings, and a focus on what matters. Here at BurdaStyle, it's sewing that brings us joy and makes us giddy, and in this issue, fabric gets top priority! , If you're a sewer, chances are you have a strong love affair with fabric. The colors, the prints, the feel, the drape. We're dedicating this, entire issue to fabric, the foundation of sewing and fashion. In your hands, you'll find the latest roducts with a fabric focus (p. 10 and 12), a a guide J, a 1 é bric (p. 102-104), a se machine ‘Ym enjoying some down-time between classes at The Sewing Studio Now York c et for working with various fabrics (p.106-107), plus runway inspirations and 4 9 purdabtgie d k | welcome you to dive into our second issue of BurdaStyle US. Want to get involved? Check out our Giveaway on p. 105 (the prize is worth over $500!), and read your fellow BurdaStylers’ top sewing tips on p.9. Don’t forget to upload photos of the garments you sew from this issue on BurdaStyle.com so we can all get inspired by your skills as well as your creativity. Still learning? Che There, you'll find our growing bank of educational Raina Seitel and ae ming a technique and project videos hosted by me and eae eee our Online Editor, Meg Healy. New videos are - added each week, and you can watch just one ee ) or subscribe to the whole batch & ‘ | want to thank each of you for your support and encouragement (and your positive feedback) following our premier issue! We love @ , sewing and we're so glad that you do, too. Enjoy your spring, and enjoy this issue as well! “Denice Denise Wile Editorial Director, BurdaStyle US Meg Healy is prepping the set for our streaming videos at the BurdaStyle Cincinnati studio. a TwaRejoice! Now you can cut fabric with ease. Never before has cutting fabric been so simple! With ScanNCut, a revolutionary new home and hobby fabric cutting machine with a built-in scanner, you can now cut all original fabric pieces and custom quilt blocks with both precision and ease. There is no need for scissors, a rotary cutter or even a ruler! With a range of features available, your sewing, quilting and appliqué projects are now easier to create than ever before. + Add seam allowances in 1/4" increments to assist you in piecing together fabric pieces for quilts, clothing and more. + Draw in sewing guidelines to see exactly where your seam should be each time, ensuring virtually perfect placements of your stitches, + Say goodbye to fussy-cutting. Cut and prep any type of appliqué you want, add a seam. allowence and you're ready to appliqué! Scart>Cae See how easy itis to make this Project and more at ScanNCut.com aur el Eee Mie CaS aun ats) at your side as egBurdaStyle SPRING 2014 Moca. dhol intrest com 8 burdasiyie.com sPniNe 2016WE ASKED, YOU ANSW NAA atom At rosciE unique sewing tool you can’t live w thick. It can be used © j onjesn hemiines — and it also works when I'm | S8wing thick things and even matching French seams, | See, Wipe, Canada 1. AJean-A-Ma- dig allows you to | jump the bumps J where seams are | 2. Atiny gadget called a needle | applicator. The working end has a | Role to grab machine needles when | changing them. | used to loathe the fiddle of changing needles | 8nd dropping them. No more. = Lesey dane L, Tunbridge Wel, | Unteckiraon | 3-Tissue paper.» itis super cheap but | Makes great pattern paper. Easy to see | through for tracing patterns, easy to cut, | and did | mention super cheap? — Monique H, Denver, Colorado 4. My favorite | sewing tool is a hemming foot. it | _ folds the edge of your fabric evenly | 88 you sew, saving you the time of measuring, pinning, and pressing your hem — Samson Z, Shanghai, Cina “ ERED! ithout? re ned aaa 5. Frixion pens. Allight touch of a warm iron will erase the pen marks, so can use a black or blue pen on fine - fabric knowing that it wil disappear —Geleries., rece, Colorado needle. | put a little g ‘soap on the point, which helps the needle slide through the fabric easier. Becky M, Toronto, Cenada 6. Hand-sewing thick fabric can be painful because it's difficult inserting the Want to share your insider tip? For our next issue, What organizing tip are you most proud of in your sewing space Visit burdastyle.com/blog/top-10-organizing-tips to share what it is! top 10 7. My Seam | Allowance Guide! Itattaches to the | side of your scissors withamagnetand [i | an adjustable band === is used to measure how much | seam allowance you need 10 add to the pattern. Ialsofindit | very handy for making length additions to patterns and when — | making clothes copied from store-bought items. | —Holie 8, Canberra, Australia | 8. luse toothpicks to help create the | perfect button shank, | secure @ | button by hand with a toothpick between | the button and fabric, then I side the toothpick out when lam ready to finish the shank. \ Leandra, ake, ara 9. After sewing a spaghetti strap or | fabric button loop, luse a loop tumer | to turn the fabric right-side out. = Insert the rod into the fabric, latch the hook to the end of the: | tube, and pull the fabric through itself. I asia New Yr, NewYork 10. | discovered \ pastel crayons | inthe art supplies | store and now | I have at least a | dozen of them in different colors. | always have the perfact crayon to mark every fabric just a tone lighter or darker! They wash out, and you | can erase the light ones with your fingers. | = Nathalie, Queretaro, Mexico we want to know: = SPRING zo burdasiyie.com 9Fabric and Textiles, tools, and reads for your varied sewing needs HOME SCHOOLING i POM: PVE E Intociné Introductory | Bil sl senng eunatn or atance SEAVI SEWING? | sours by leaming base sening fabric fundamental, ané garment sewing anytime, Garrnt S, Leann te Su 34 anywhere. LoveSewing DVD, $25 each, MAKE THE CUT, To protect your beloved fabric shears trom ‘the wear of epeatedl trimming thread ‘ends, keep a pair of embroidery scissors on-hand. These come with «ladybug thread cufer that attaches to your sewing machine. ‘Greate Notions Hearts Scissor Se, $30. FROM THE EDITOR ee SPRING INTO SEASON Infuse warm-weather prints into your wardrobe with soft wateroolors, fresh lorals, and contemporary stripes. Spring treet by Dear Silia Design, $t1/yard FINding sat. sd sTiTcn iT Pick up this thread for ‘topstitching, coring, butionholes, and sewing thick, heavy fbries. The thread weight is 15, so use 2 large size topstitching needle, Goats & Cark Dual Duty XP Heavy, $2. sf TWO FOR ONE THIS 150-DECORATIVE- STITCH SEWING MACHINE EASILY CONVERTS TO AN EMBROIDERY MACHINE THAT FEATURES 100 BUILT-IN DESIGNS PLUS. A USB PORT FOR ADDING YOUR OWN. BERNETTE CHICAGO, $1399. 10 burdastyle.com sPrING 2014Perfection star's here.” What makes it SO perfect? Ofiginal IDT™ system — The ultimate in sewing perfection! * Perfect seams on all fabrics, from light to heavy weight ero Toxo eee ea ey eect eee Lae ire RE S'Regrated, no teporaie } attachments needed : '¢ Available on most PFAFF™ B machines ee * A large assortment of presser feet for o variely of techniques Perfect for on-the-go sewers. Perfect for serious sewers Perfect for the | The Original - embroiderer. only from PFAFF®. | | For over 45 years. i: nf) i IDTA% en = I) Absolutely even fabric J feed from both the top and the bottom,new & now PINE PIBERS Looking to elevate the quality of your garments? Seek high-end tertiles direct ‘om Peru including alpaca wool shown) and Pima cotton (nicknamed Peruvian sil), wwasolalpaca.com, prices range mise READING RAINBOW ‘wom Finally! Color-coded machine "es needlesindieate the needle woe type and needle size with a wes quick lance. SCHMETZ Color Coded Needles, $3-86. ca JEAN MACHINE C PRE-WASHED AND READY TO SEW “* MEANS AMY BARICKMAN’S NEW DENIM LINE IS SUITABLE FOR BOTH FASHION ~ AND ACCESSORIES, AS WELL AS CRAFT AND HOME DECOR. CROSSROADS DENIM, $14 PER YARD. Book Worm FASHION MEETS 5 THE PERFECT SkINT FUNCTION © rroncr STYLE BurdaStyle editor Detailed steps and For those who Denise Wild mixes patterns for sewing ‘ove vaition and reference with simple, trendy ‘reat, But who inspiration to bring you projects including ned the how-to ‘a mending and repair basic garments and as well as the reference manual accessories, fabric inspiration, this book ‘ied with fashion-DIY containers, and shows you how to ‘ideas for elevating existing garments. family-frienaly projects and décor. make 17 diferent skirts from one basic sewing Mend & Make Fabulous, $20. Sew Quick Sew Cute, $20. pattem. The Essential A-Line, $27 12 burdastyle.com sprINa 2014with the New Juki eS = ae es Air-Powered Push Newly Designed Button Threading Knife System tate Automatic Needle Easy Threading Ports Threader Breeze through projects with the ease of air-powered threading with the most dependable, yet affordable, air thread serger on the market. + Newly designed knife system for perfect curves! + 2/3/4 Thread options for a wide range of stitch variations! Use decorative threads with the effortless power of air! Visit www.jukihome.com to locate your local Authorized Juki Dealer for additional information and a demonstration on the MO-1000! — a ILERCE Join the Fun! JUKI AMERICA, INC.SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION fabrictrends The warmer weather means it’s time to get hands-on, and what better way than to immerse yourself in a number of beautiful, fashionable sewing projects? First on your to-do list: Find some inspiring fabrics that will be the perfect match with your burdastyle garments as well as personal designs. MICHAEL MILLER www.michaelmillerfabrics.com our its otetonis xq wth its sui shinmeting chon ana dos Gold metalic in unempected pattems, sic es the pertet amount of az Inettecrenm tae, hee pts can sow op anyre om ean tein seeps ta oder dy ro cecal rec. ths mx and mah line, you don't have tobe a visionary to wwii iia creat someting magical COLOR ME HAPPY www.modafabrics.com “When I hink of my favorite colors, the color scheme of this line fallin ‘that category. The simple designs andthe colorful palette make me Aer happy and make me smile every ‘ime I work with this ine. I hope it colors your fabric stash and projects happy, 2 wel’ — Vanessa Christenson ‘Ack for Moda fabri at your {avert qui or speciaty store, Follow son FB forte atst happenings, inspraton tree pattems and more. 14 burdastyle.com sPrino 2014SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION SARAH JANE FOR MICHAEL MILLER FABRICS www.sarahjanestudios.com www.michaelmillerfabrics.com Ph: 212-704-074 Frosh and whimsical fabri ine Woe Wander by Sarah Jane for Michael Miler Fabrics celebrates the wandering spin of a child with spring color and charming design. Sarah Jane ilustrated 21 coordinating paces which lata the mage of summer pay chasing fireflies inthe summer, climbing ttees, ding horses and taking fog walks in the woods. Bursting wit gorgeous jes, inks, corals, and bes, this collection is gorgeously sft, ideal for apparel and {wulting alk, Take a wander through Sarah ‘Jane's blag for a tour of projets featuring tree patterns like this Wee Wander Dress made specially fortis collection ICONIC FABRIC COLLECTION, BY CAMELOT FABRICS http:/camelotfabrics.com/designers/ camelot-design-studioficonic.html ‘THE MOOD: 1960s Goco Chanel, Jacke 0. ‘THE TREND: Classic mod and ‘reppy shapes; soft pink with taupe and navy. SIGNATURE LOOK: A boxy pleated tp, a string of pearls, unshakable confidence ‘TAKE ME HOME: Furnish hhame and office with che ‘ge0-print plows. Afem= inne tablet cover miaes work and style with ease. IDENTITY: You're elegant, Independent and classic. ‘THE MOMENT: Celebrate ‘he first year of your starl-ups suecess with ‘champagne, macaroons and afew close fiend. ROWAN FABRIC wwwaowanfabric.com Rowan Hapl vole by Amy Butler is alve story rooted in an Egyptian holiday Itretlects the soullul grace and exuberance of warmth grounded in its ancient culture, Hap the Egyptian God ofthe valley andthe ile. It isthe pure expression of the idea of flow and creativity flowing from our hearts and hands. Pictured is siapanese Dress 2 ftom Easy, Cute, Straight Stitch Sewing by yoko Tsukori nity scart from Amy Buter Hap Creative Suite patter. Rowan Hep is avalabe in 100% cotton, 100% cotton voile and 55% linen/45% cotton, ‘sPrina zo burdastyle.com 15runway diy UPCYCLE AN OLD T-SHinT INTO.A CREATIVE FLOUNCE caer ght skirt turned couture, oe) ees MATERIALS One men's J ard.one women's pain si, } cisappearing fabric marker, | safety pi, scissors, straight | pins, aL _ ‘STEP 2 On the women's si, ‘measure 10° (25 em) up from the | } ee | hem and draw a straight ine | srs tshirt ator de | Sea pr nt alge ne creating long stp of fabric 16 burdasty “a tigen mie ose, re: had it pe a | Al / | iad i {| i i | , 7 & 1 | \ WHITE HOT ‘fabulous ‘one-shoulder to made by combining ‘wo colon T-shirts. ’ STEP 1 Use the dsappearing marker to draw a diagonal ‘ne-shoulder neckline plus armhole onthe men's shirt cut sng the marked ines. ¥ i STEP 2 Seuth stip tothe ddagonal neckine %" 2 cr fom te edge. Make a (1.3 cm) along the cut edge. Thread elastic trough the casng, Create an eastied waistine casing using eta fbi.oe Overtock netuces 1 1-2-3 CruwConn STOANEEILES News this } f For years, I've experienced serger bliss. My Baby Lock threaded itself, and I never had to adjust the tensions. Now with these BIG features, my serger bliss as turned into an experience worthy of an Ovation, How could Baby Lock sergers get any better? Go Bigger! The Baby Lock Ovation tives me five inches to the right of the needle, ‘That's more than any other serger ‘out there. Plus, the knee lift and speed control give me a smoother hands-on, experience, The only way to truly appreciate the / _ aiferene eto try one for our t baby lock your la authored eae, They Aodertand i yu fe compeed se arctad FOR THE LOVE OF SEWING Come experience the Ovation at your Frunway diy hide bad hair ceed a pretty, pol ala) to your tela 18. burdastyle.com srina 2018 {I e It | use wine anp | Diconative RrADs MCHENTE A UNIQUE | HANEACCESSORY 1 BOW TIE | Adaticate, pretty \ | bons an easy DY | aetna | thera pin i ead ban \ B | i | | \ ' wrarren ol | This ed band i spain | , tomeke using stn ton a | ovat meapine yo Serene | omtjoraee becca wuwuehl? braied to create this stand-out A) \ AW i\ i | headband. ¥ 4 , | aa: f y~ | } 4 ] | 4 ~~ ] a f , i = | @@ = i e a | | MATERIALS Fostsor STEP 1 Guta wies 19% 60 | evelerswireinfoureolrs, _emplong. Bend one eno ach | embrcidr tread oc rang intoa smal op. Trond beads | beads, jeter, ambroery ono wires ano te open ant | trea, ape meas Nake tee error thea brads he Stad eac Kol nds. | } | | | | STEP 2Pairsiwies and one STEP 9 Bente end ofeach | emtrory tread sector: bra! 3° (cn) we pice a op | together Tend ach endlop/ and ben the ene age brad | kotor 3c) te wth nla ead tad shape 1 beads betwen, il } : 3WWW.SIMPIICItY.COM | 92014 simplicity creative Group + 4050 Dona Woy « Antioch TN 37073 = USArunway diy PINISH A.V CUT-OUT WITH! NTRASTING BIAS TAPE, Peo eat Berta TICKLED PINK This plunging neckline is tice ‘as ice with a contrasting bound edge. MATERIALS Tankiop nar STEP 1 From thetop'scener| ‘a measuring tape straight prs, fron neeine edge, mak 1 ion, scissors, doube-fold bias (4m) to the eft and ight, ard | tape, tread, alors chalk. measure" (20.5 en) down from the centerpoint. Draw the Vandcut = itout Atthelmest point cult 9° = (4. stig don. 5 Tera) _ Vole liNi¥ Se eerie) i Oe ies STEP 2 Encase the neckandcut STEP 3 Toth the point of eV, cris with bis tae nd pin tin tun the shit inside-out Atte pec. Eigesich i place. straigllower end place oe ice of tape ontop ofthe cer. Stich cose tothe ees andthe ends of the tape together aan angie 20, burdastSrimway di eB ‘THIS Is HOW THE KISSABLE | CRYSTALS ARE SET Upcycle an empty ONTO THE BRACELET lnstick tube into «stylish pendant \ with a ite DY. This cellphone case (HAM) “C is extra fab with its POWER CUFF ‘Add some sparkle with an edgy accessory by wite-wrapping crystals onto a leather bracelet. ¥ ae MATERIALS Amethyst, STEP 1 Punch holes in each crystals 1 (@ mim-thickeather, end ofthe leather and insert two snap fasteners and snap ool, the snaps. Punch another six siver wir, lather le punch, hoes in the center to attach tape measure, scissors. the gems, sd a» — "s ar STEP 2 Wrap lengths of wire STEP :Pusheachof the wire ends | around the stones until they ‘through al. Tit the ens rly : ate secure, beginning atthe around eachother onthe back, center and leaving both wire securing the stones, Pl the ends to tends extending from the stone, the rent gan and bend them in Place lore insring them doom, sPrINa 2016 burdasiyie.com 21AEC enull-cr sins ences uehuric tev alse 4. 1N THE MOOD. Go bold day or nightin he daring halle Burbery Multi-Use Kaal Crayon in No, 02 Diblo0d, $33. 2. LIPS TO LOVE Its all abot eolr th sdas0n, an this o righton the mark. Maybeline New York ‘olorSerseioralVnids LipColor in Shocking Coral, $10, 3. TOUEH-UP: Hadcrattepiosbrushesmake al the de. In aplication, MAKE UP FOR EVER Artisan Brush +#412 (Mediu Pain Brush and #210 (Small Round Shader Brust). $49 and $25, 4. PASTEL POWER Flirt up wath barelyther@ Spring oye coors, ‘The Body Shop Colou Crush Eyeshadow in Pink Crush, Chat-Up Lime, Lavender Love, and Boyfriend Jeans, $10 sac 5. RASPRERRY ROGUE Spokesmode|Ri-i knows how ta tdck frosted redpout. MLA Lipase Vie Glam hanna, 6, SWEET CHEEKS ‘Apply ust oné fue occombin ater. Dr: Hausohka Maile Shininer Blush T9, $42 vF LENGTHS 358 and volume in one qulck stroke Lancbime Hypa Drama Mascara in Exc Black, $31. Pee Noam ote ayPerfect Hair Bring your locks ba 2 organi amp packed with Clear prod bul Roche Rin Vinegar, $8 sinule mask eek wl Recent ee comesExpert DENISE WILD Build your confidence an a sewing machine, * Learn a variety of stitches and seam finishes. * Prevent your machine from jamming and your thread from bunching up. * Get pro tips while you build a solid sewing foundation and sow two projects from start to finish. Expand beyond basic skills to fake your sewing to the next level. * Learn how to read and adjust a pattern. * Learn fabric fundamentals that will make your projects = = even better. * Sew a custom skirt from scratch in three different styles: A-line, fi pencil, gathered oe Tea)ree eet: rere some pet Peco ten A nets fe = PEuS eet] gets PaO Cunii co) ee Be eue eats styles auras iene ort Rselel tee eaiecee|Ralaisy A touch of retro ERTS oun eee Seema \So)(o Rnd (role ale icoll| A Tuam te gta of your jeans insite out Gl push the igitlegint the et eg. Now oneleg 2 Fins the oer th wrong ses together. Pinte to igs tog, making sur tl arelng at aganst each oer Marke dese Jengoljourstots with chk and vt a marked, STEP 3 Open p aside seam of your short, Sfating tne over edge and stopping 3 (2 on) abwthe pocket. Cut across the ont of your eens é tan angle to create cutoff Pin th ace Aderneth the cut-out and hand- or mechine-sew tin place Fish off your ner ok by throwing your sors inthe asher forthe periat faye hem! your ean seams re double siched, i the orion ears fhe sea fra tla joing. ‘SPRING 2014 burdastye.com 25burda fi Biker jackets, batik tops, and br@ezy floral dresses: the casual-cool pleces recep Aone SR mcs octal ogee RCC and feminine silhouettesafe turned into fashion that rocks! Pea ee hee AO cC cence Uy gre. Eo et eee CeaiS omees Uo Laan a alo 4 SOLA errre sae} g a Ct. | oes et Se bolero. Add a fun, youthful Pres Nis) Te ay) Pe euas enero] ro hc) pairing it with boots ora biker Jacket to toughen up crs a yi Ua DANSE |) Preteen) oT) Peres) ee | Deen ta eeeeiey |) empire waistline Bind fll Pray ey Poesia) rene Ue2. WOODSTOCK Aare ene Reece ng eu Pao Moron) pera eT] rhc Poe ee eed A Coy ont 28 burdastyle.com sPriNa 2014‘aS ro ay CASUAL COOL > TOP 128¢-022014-US Heading out and have ‘or make a solid color version for work FABRIC & NOTIONS: Jersey. Headphones: burda fashion ~DESC Padded quilting on the elbows, shoulder tabs, and. ore) Sey ago! Ber ae ore Eins UU be ROR es coe CeeR ces Pa ee ey Hook-and-loop fastenings and a visored hood keep eee es ‘And a drawstring waist allows you to cinch in the slyle for a more fitted silhouette, Ueeee ean] easy SMe Intec ceient) effortlessly cool in the hot hot heat Catena CU VaTnCicicts Cena CR feet (ecereclt Ng Culiticed iter’ Pie mmeuenesied eee PRODUCTION: ANASTASIOS VOULOaRIS ry} jOO Aare Deere ac) princess seams, this Premera aes Pe Ry eee or rounded neckline make it the Pee ecco Newitt hint ee) ree Cae professional finishBring a sweet and folksy feel to this blouse by adding embroidery i} ‘tothe yoke ar as BLOUSE 122-022014-US Even under scorching temperatures, this breezy silk blouse will keep you looking coo! and collected, ‘The wide yoke and front bleating detall add polish and poise to this style. FABRIC & NOTIONS: ‘ripe de Chine, buttons.DE rca Eo eone attention with this Be ues Der ere! Seen Pane eevid aed Cen ag along the neckline and hem, eo Reese Te eeeburda fashion OLIVE OIL, SKIRT 121-022014-US pxrvenn mse BURDA SIZES 26 ~ 44 This flared, knee-length skit f simple to make and dresses up any occasion, The contoured waistband ‘ensures a flattering fit, and the neutral color Keeps it professional. Keep it classic by patting it with a ‘outton-up blouse and a sephisticated belt Fabric & notions: /*]"\ Nechiabe: Marin ina: Bangles: Marina Rai | (orn, bee Agta guy Bet Roper Vie. SIMPLE SHIFT H DRESS 117-022014-US ‘BUROA SIZES 26-44 “Take acue from Coco We're going back to basics with ‘Chanel and adda touch {nis classic shift dress sewn in a ofhaute-couture with soPhisicated linen fabric, We've them. Use contrasting ‘FABRIC & NOTIONS: py thread to make the Linen, iavisible zipper. Scart: | {race a sng Michael Kors. 36 burdastyie.com sPrina 2014Ths ronal ote aii Jain at a abric or fine ‘stripes, LIFE IS BEAUTIFUL TROUSERS 112-022014-US ‘unDA Si2Es 24-48 ‘These classic slacks area timeless addition to any wardrobe. We've used a woo! satin, and have omitted the Walstband for a fresh, new look. The long, wide legs and ‘ont patch pockets add the appearance of curves toa narrow frame while acontuating your waist, and an invisible zipper closes the trousers along the center back seam. FABRIC & NOTIONS:accessorize CATWALK COUTURE The Runway watch swith its boytiend- inspired shape and turquoise face, is a fashionable lesson in how-to-wear @ masculine timepiece Michael Kors, $235, GOLDEN EYE, Add a hit ofthis beautiful bue/green hue with a chi rng Forever 21, $8, SILVER LINING = AN AFFAIR ‘errodcing fe cen ‘to your everyday ltestyle; eta tinshes have reer ben ater. Tomy Hite, $90, Stay stylishly in step this season with accessories to suit your favorite feminine look SOLE ADDICTION ) FLOWER Walk it ot along the POWER poo! in these sexy, A show-stopping strappy Giarmia heels, . GH piece at anytime, Call Spring, 68, QE) wth the way the 2 h pool water bounces ofthis gorgeous Fleur cut Eddera, $165) 38 burdastyle.com sprina 2014a For uM Spoi ira wth 1a green leather hands-ee, cross-body bag, sohe can tote his essentials anywhere Lacoste, $95 BETTER IN LEATHER ‘The rich texture ofthe Rory clutch, contrasted by the pale trim, make fora stand-out daytime or eveing bag. Pudsak, $138. x e BEAUTIFULLY BESEWELED Chunky gold bracelets with intresting etal, ke these turquoise and whe oversized jewels creat a seasonal appropriate arm pay, A, S18, Mako a statement with this turquoise necklace. PRETTY & PLAITED Perfect for cinching your favorite caftan, or a nice addition to lose, high ‘waisted pants, this braided beit i a definite mult-tasker, Reitmans, $16 CARRIED AWAY ‘Aday-to-evening clutch, this beauty Is a quality spring staple. Lacoste Live, $95. ‘SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 39burda woman eT erties raga ass) Beane) 40 burdastyle.com sPriNa 2014ow, cropped trousers. ‘made ina comfortable stretch sateen. Prost PAGE Dita A Wi) Hoey > Etta: eons aie ee t+ + SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 41burda woman 'T ON 5 141-022014-US / _BURDA Sis 44-52 “The perfect photo op. ‘The camera wil love you inthis strking shift dress ‘that features unexpected | deta nutog a iunaing Veneckline and contrasting “oposite exc HERRY CRUSH DRESS 198-022014-US ths fabulous frock. ‘chosen a fabric in 42 burdastyie.com sPrina 2014burda woman BURDA SIZES 44 ~ 52 Ever fallen in love wit a great book? You're sure to feel the same about this stunning blouse! We've mixed matte and shiny fabrics to up the intrigue ofthis sophisticatedRED HOT DRESS 143-022014-US ‘BURDA SIZES 4452 This dress is built for suecess. The button-up bib inset, standing colar, and cuffed sleeves are Ideal forthe office, \while the silky red fabric hhas you all set for after-work drinks FABRIC & NOTIONS: Weld Heinzondort A little self-conscious | of your upper arms? Sew the sleeves slightly longer and skip the cuff. SPRING 2018 burdastaccessorize THIN 1S LN It you're not one fora thicker, menswear- inspired watch, a dainty but fabulous timepiece isa ice, feminine addition to your ensemble. Fossil, $135, STEP BY STEP ‘The Calder platform is as versatile a heel as you'll get. Wear with day dresses, skits of any length, and dress pants fora suitably ‘ashian-forwara ook Michael Kors, $188, CASUAL FRIDAY Springtime dresses and relaxed slacks call out for stylish updates this season, like hits of gold, and '70s-inspired footwear BY MICHELLE BILODEAU CAN YOU DIG IT? The pale platform Dwiade heel Is inspted bythe 70s in all the right places. Aldo, $110 AROUND THE WAY Ammust-have fr every woman, gold hoop earings are a ‘lassie update to your closet Reitmans, $7 46 burdastyle.com sprina 2014STACK THE BLOCK Looking for something more structured and serious? Then grab a color-blocked leather handbag like this one Lacoste, $385, YE SPY On-trend frames can update your look, whether the lenses ate prescription or not FYSHUK, $246, HIGH FASHION MUST The Edisto bag is part backpack, part purse, and al perfect This light brown cary al, with its black contrasting accents, will complement casual or dressier laoks.Palthorp, $275, SHINE A LIGHT Bring the sparkle back to daytime dressing vith a crystal- Incrusted cocktail ring. Dress this one own by playing it against a fun color, REE CR eoR suet a ped or ‘iator-style sunnis are a go-to Swacstah, 8200, in any weather, and these are Fight on point. Forever21, 87. PRETTY BIRD Not one to wear sky-high heels? The Oniradian bird flats ae feminine slip-ons that won't make your feet ache. Preity shes such as these deserve to be on oe csplay witha fancy fock or relaxed trousers. Sheliys London, $80. SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 47burda fashion Come along on a trip to the Greek isles, _ where we were inspired to create these sophisticated, bohemian-style looks, complete” with beautiful white lace, cool shades of blue, = and unique detailing PHOTOGRAPHY: PAUL GERARD PRODUCTION: ANASTASIOS VOULGARIS. 2° HIGH TIDE DRESS 126-022014-uS sunna sEs36—43 ie This adorable'mini dress in embroldered Tae is quick to make and the perfect ‘oulfit fora day on the town. The ruffles, along the hem add a feminine charm, FABRIC & NOTIONS: Peeka-boo fabric is often summertime fevrit, but fora mre suble fish, ete or colored lining iderneath.teow COOL AZURE BLOUSE 1208-022014-US SKIRT 1178-022014-US. Emanating a chic ‘60s vibe, this cropped wraparound blouse and printed skirt remind us of sexy starlet Brigette Bardot, Inverted pleats give shape and style to the skirt, while the blouse stands out wit its lapel collar and 3/4-lenath sleeves. ‘ays. Te attached te bet ches the dress, creating beaut sthaucte, FABRIC & NOTIONS: Wolfe ‘lasses: Ray-Ban, Smee tone || ichaolnors. LI SPRING 20m burdastyie.com 49burda fashion SHORE THING DRESS 108-022014-US neckline pleats contour perfectly around the bust, and allow fora departure from standard bust darts FABRIC & NOTIONS ‘Add a contrast © 30" burdastyle.com senna 2014DANCING QUEEN DRESS 1098-022014-US ‘Simply step into this sexy, sleeveless dress, and you'l be looking like royalty Glamorous beads and gemstones adorn the neckline of tis slightly ited Douce shit. Perfect for any night out fasricanorions JU Aotel, invisible ipper, hooks ‘ SAIL AWAY LAGE SHORTS 102:1-022014-Us These ace short-shrts ae bth feminine and atl it sporty, The underayer of cre sti is soft against your skin wile deep pleas atthe front and back ders aoa the shorts to drape beautifully FABRIC & NOTIONS:burda fashion WHITE HOT STRETCH DRESS. 127-022014-US ‘unDA sizes 24-42 This form-fitting dress in white stretch lace and chiffon gleams almost as brightly asthe lowing Greck sun, The extravagant design is perfect for those seeking adventure, with its eye-catching gathered diagonal seam and asymmetrical neckline and hem FABRIC & NOTIONS: a gates ime onan ricooy ve setae sse eran sper ToA DAY AT SEA TUNIG 124-022014-US BURDA SIZES 26-44 | ‘This casual-yet-efined pullover | ith raglan sleeves Is for afternoons spent high seas. The ecg, lve and bem banding adds a tone-on-tone embelishment to thesook sPRINa 20M burdastyie.com 52‘unoa sizes 26 just because the sun coes down doesn't Mean you have to, Siip on this basebal-siyle Zip-up wien the ar gets. ile cooler. Made ‘na lightweight, delicate vole the knit fibbing atthe hem and wrists adds a touch of contrast and warmth to the jacket. ao & NOTIONS anon te AMO) tie B a We can thank singer Lana Del Rey for Tee Raa Uae eon anco ee A eRe Ce Eee malo alt a es aes charming capris, and flirty zip- Cola eMart on ayaa Pace C CCS meeburda fashion Ae Emer Rrceyetrey eee Payee Serer conn ocr} ee noe) ie Pe) reece pee Oe as Pui thburda fashion |, This style {| is available | inpetite | sizes 17-21 36 burdastyle.com sPrinazo14 SPANISH STYLE ‘CORSET TOP 115-022014-US [BURDA SES 26-44 SKIRT 122-022014-US. Flaunt your feminine side inthis fitted corset top, complete with an enticing sweetheart rnecktine. Up the glam factor in a flared skit this one decorated with floral adornments and gemstone appliqués. FABRIC & NOTIONS:Tounded hem and piped edges, make this outfit ‘rly and fun. ons SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 57Ae CUS Parra aCe Pret F Sie) blouse with a single-button rey Peed flirtatious addition to any ero SUN ut this dazzling sequined mini. ne ce) Ce oe Creer nes eo enc OUTSburda fashion FEMININE TOUCH DRESS 116-022014-US The sweetheart cut isa style favorite of many women, and lust lke the corset top on page 56, the neckline on this sheath dress is both / flattering and feminine. With a concealed side seam, closure, sleek dart shaping and grosgrain cestyle savvy uit oF GIRL ABOUT cHAIN Sida tt TOWN Neclace, satan 1044, nate, burdastle com BLUE ‘This zipup sa fasblon must thls SHADE summer Mal with lightweight Surlses, fabric, I provides breezy, casual Ray-Ban cover-up alternative to your favorite leather or denim jacket. The beauty in ‘his zip-up top lies in its versatility, and there are so many options for styling it- Close it up and pair it with a brocade skirt and vibrant gold accessories for a classy evening look, or wear ito the office with suhte accessories, wide-leg trousers, and a slmple blouse. BURDASTYLE GERMANY'S EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DAGMAR BILY SAY: $6 For a casual, sporty look, | wear this jacket with jeans and sneakers, jazzing it up with trendy accessories. ? ABOUT TIME Watch, z Nae by z JACKET ’ waetacs (OF earreny 123.1-022014-08 : Y stan i ; Proven : Sneakers, Converse 60 burdastyle.com SPRING 2014af 5 fe z SIMPLY WHITE Bouse, cua HARD METAL Padcase, slander sky SCRAPER, Hooks, Yes Saint Laurent % aN OLDEN SUMMER srectace |] NIGHTS Glass 03s orange EMERALD. DROP Earrings, Accessorize FINE DETAILS Burda skirt pattem 105A, 3/2010, burdastye.com PRENCH BRAID Necklace, | Mare Cain | sver EBB AND ir up FLOW Hee's, i Burda trousers, Valentino, 1188, 2/2012, stylebop.com FE uraastyecom SPARKLE SHINE “7 Ring, Roberto Cava Rees oe ae Nesey sae GLITTERING coup hutch, sPRING 20M burdastyie,com 61Sewing techniques for all levels Patternmaking and drafting Garment construction BurdaStyle projects | ( | Discover the SIU eles) ay im Video Vault L— Download any single video and own it forever! burdastyle.com/videodownloadsALL STYLES AT A GLANCE Pty an pastel mess vintage Paps S458 \eean-ready vacation styles, Pagos 48-53 EW THIS — 8 Bubble top. _ Pages 108-110 : Bal , N Separates made for racking out. Pages 26-31 Page 112 INS Camera-ready simple detals. Pages 40-45 LOVE STORY Sihouettes that ow. Pages 32-37 uae ve wo 105 ve ay 5 i 8 SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 6sBurdaStyle Instructions I youve never sed a Burda pattern befor or you nee tle Additional reminder thse valuable hints wil hep make your garment a sure jon: sts ur pattens sight tert tn cer ond soread_MFormation: though these instructions thoroughly before you begin your project. ml The fabric requirements given Som ofthe pattems inthe magazin wll be found onthe pater are hased onthe fabric sed in insert sheets that are stapled nto the magazin. To access those our orga dasigns. These pats trie sup open remove ests ten dese thera you ie dovnload at BuraSyiecem Yose te ful RL este he net arent wih pattern number inthe following instruction pages. poh chim layouts included Patterns on the insert sheets. Show our enemendel way Burda patterns available on the insert sheets include seam to place the pattern pieces. and hem allowances. ‘Aluvays fold the fabric in half In the garment's pattem overview box in the sewing instruc- with the right sides together, tions, you'l find the colar ofthe pattem line (ed, blue, areen, bringing together the opposing ‘or black), the pattern sheet location (A-D), the pattern piece selvages. When cutting from a numbers, the size outlines, and the pattern piece flats single fabric layer the ight side [To find the pattern pieces, look foreach pattern piece number of the fabric should face up. in the stated color along the edge ofthe appropiate pattemn Ml Pater pices shown inthe sheet. For example, if your garment has its patter in green on cutting layout with broken sheet C and includes pieces 1—7, look along the edges of outlines should be pinned to pattern sheet C to find the number 1 written in green. Once the fabric with the printed, you've found that, use it as your starting point to follow an le facing down, imaginay line perpendicular tothe pattem sheet edge ut Pattern pieces show inthe you point tothe gen 1 along a pattem piece cutting ine. cutting layout with shading That’ the patter pce you need, Do the same forthe require inttfacing, Shaded remaining pttem piece numbers areas of a lager pattern piece 1mSome pattem pieces may have been spin two in oder to ft requite interfacing fr that cn the pattem inset sheets. hss the case the pattem piace particular partion, rub (1 for example wl be seen on te inccated sheets eos wal I Tansferthe pater piece with the letters “a” and “b". You wil combine piece 1a with ngs othe wrong side ofthe piece Th by lining up the cred “X"s on each piece edge ‘abvicwith alo’ hak Hand race the pattem pieces onto pattern pape. beste along placement ines fe. 1 Copy all markings and sear numbers onta your new paper for pockets or center font) to pattem pices. Check them against the crawings inthe make them visble onthe ight instructions to ensure they were copied correct side of the fabri. Patterns available as downloads Burda patterns avaiable as digital downloads do not include seam and hem allowances We recommend adding %" (1.5 cm) for seams and 11" @.8 cm) for hems, Instructions may inl cate otherwise, but fot, this isthe standard To download the pattern piees needed, go to the URL listed in the sewing instructions and find the appropriate garments POF. Print your pattern POF (using the latest version of Adobe Reader) on 81" x 11° (Ad) paper. Be sure to pint the POF at its actual size Im Assemble your PDF pages following the instructions included with the download. Fabrics may shrink when laundered forthe first time, especialy those made of cotton, linen, and rayon, To avoid shrinkage of the finished garment, these fabrics should be pre-treated (washed and dried before cutting out the fabric piece). Use the ‘temperature settings you plan to use for the finished garment. If you want to test the ‘amount of shrinkage of your fabri, cut square ofthe fabric and measure it exactly. Finish the edges, then wash it, and compare the size after washing with the original size. 4 burdastyle.com serve 2014 Symbols Ambole markings ‘eserma nero re es iit ewes oe When thesiene Btn Broken ine Inet tr Eee (0 EE eae [Ese zs ages ution utonhole Eyelet opening x 4 Folding tnthe pert vere = — —— — Bon ts roken ne eis that th patirn Sian Joining ne {Large ate pees ht cornet fiton fae patter insert Set reine pce Te pa Five Geen wads pen ape Adachi ohcte the [Big tine and al angie tae ah pot lect eshte ewe theater ser shee, you wll need idighentanenjostncete | faactolecenspltemeee, | | pe ree cate pec rena Beret | Fo] reser foot ‘A peser foot imagelndiates seam Sa topattehing hes Scioe inca sah ines, ich as tek plat openings (or cou, — Se — IGsadbe pore ssnrs nate ‘pesto Beart witout an aedes ‘Seam allowance) Socom [7d Co féearte he cuting re inate ages to be anced: Mach the sm mma to.one snot Seam numbers 2 Dajocant pattern pecs ‘that must be seu I {eget are inated y wistheehese | ‘hh the seme nombre slllacket mark “Tamale ine hat Tanacethecutng ine indates beginning or Sorte aerpd “Ta following abo wil ony be found on the tts ce sn te paterson Doe nthe dan inercehett and onthe ddowniondae pator pees the word are fee AAA ‘ater Stretch veTAKING MEASUREMENTS For the bes ft, t's important to take precise measurements. Measure you «garments, and have someone assist you If needed. Use a flexible measuring {s taut but not tight and paral! to the floor. Stand upright with a related ps “Bust: teasue around the ules pat of your bust. Neck Circumference: Weasue the creunference atthe base ofthe neck ad above the collarbone 22 Waist: Measure around your natural waist, the nartonest part. Hips: Measure horizontal round the fullest part of your bttom. ad oper thighs Additional measurements: 13 Front wast length: hieasure from he side hase of the neck ove the apex ofthe bust tothe natural waistline. Bust depth: Measure fromthe Should 4 Back waist length Measue from the base of your neck tothe ratual waistline. Back width: Measure haizortall bewween your 2m attache points '5 Shoulder: Measure fom the base f your neck to the tip of your body while wearing underwear or clase-fiting tape to measure around your body, ensuring the tape osture, and breathe normally wile you measure. ide base ofthe neck othe apex of he bust. Upper arm: Messize around the test part of you upper am, 66 Arm length: With your am slighty ben, measur from the tp of your shoulder over the elaw to the natural waistine , WOMEN'S SIZE CHART (Regular inches taportant cone er BURDASE 3234 36 «3840474445 48 SO S254 565850 ody measurements: tothe: G6 66K 66 GON GOA GON 66H GN 65% BON O6l GON 66M GOW GO appropriate Burda size chart 303133 Hh 36K 37H I AA AGA 4850 SP 55ST here or on BurdaStyle.com. Hi 29h 30H BPH 34 36-3 aL Circle each of your body SiS 36h 31 36% OK AT A 8 BOTS ‘measurements on the size 151616 16 16H 1617 17M TT ATH 18 18 18, 18H chart since you may want SLEEVELENGTH 297, 290 25% 29d ss a ED to adjust yur pattern to ft NECK WIDTH 13 13H 194 Taw 15 15H THIGH 1617 17H 17H 18h 18% 2 rage of Sizes. Xue Bugs LENGTH 39% a0 40h 40% 141 ath ails anh ane ath ADK 42h aah ans size will be different trom HOR ST — your regular store-bought LENGTH 1617 17% 1M 18H 18h 10 19% 19% 20% 20% 21 20H 21m 29% clothing size. USTPONT 9H 9H 10K 10% TA A WR WH WK TS GH 1ak a Wa 1S GRCUMFERENCE 9% 101 10% 1h 11K 17h 2A 12H 1s 14h 1S 18H 16H 17H 18K WOMEN'S SIZE CHART (Petite) inches WOMEN'S SIE CHART Tal) inches * These es are Burda petite sizes and dite inheight rom the regula ses, || * These izes are Burda al ies an fern hight from the regular sizes. The Theheight easements ae fom 63 o 66% inches. you are tale than 66%4_ || height measurements 63% inches and p. you are shore than 68% inches, inchs, you can make alterations to helength othe garment, thesleee lnath, || you can make ateralens othe length ofthe garment, the sieve length, eto fe to fit your measurements. Tityou measurements, BURDA SIZE 7 m2 _ 2223 _| | BURDASIE 668% eo HEIGHT @ 8 68 663 263 @ || HEIGHT 69k 69 60 69k 69H Gam 69K 69H BUST 303133 336k 37H 30% at_ || BUST 303133 34K 30M 37k 39a WaIst 232426 27K pou 30% 56 —34__| | WAIST 23,262 DOH OES HIP Sob 4435s sa a0 aT aa || HIP 303435) 97 38 au BACKLENGIN 15 515% 15K 16 tee te 16A || BACKLENGTH tov Tox 17 17h W777 19 SLEEVE LENGTH 22% 2% 22; 2323-73 —73_75/_| | SLEEVELENGTH 2a 24-28 ays 20h Dee DL DH NECK WIDTH 1354 13k Tek ia 15 15% _15u_| | NECK WIDTH a1 ais SIDELEG LENGTH ass sex 39 uv, G0 30% SOK || SIDELEGLENGTH ai 41x ain azn 2a DA FRONT WAIST FRONT WAIST LenaTH 15% 16K 16% 717% 17 18% 18% _| | LENGTH Wu 1 reve 1e% 19 19% 19% 204 BUST POINT gh si 9% 10k oe WA 11s 11 _| | BUSTPOINT ‘Th TOR 10% Wh Te 1k a UPPER ARW UPPER ARM CIRCUMFERENCE 9% 10% 10% TK 1 1 aie 17% | |CIRCUMFERENCE 9% 10% 0% Mh IN 1 1H a Burda pattern skill levels © Quick and easy, great for beginners Intermediate difculty for advanced learners @0 Easy 1 sew, with simple features 1© Advanced level sewing, with special features (@0 £23) 10 sew, but mote time-consuming Challenging, detaled and time-consuming ~ for pros OO Easy 0 intermediate level SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 65SEWING INFORMATION EASE PLEAT ost and eck Inings rece some exe toll or movement, andthe simplest ay to rovie tat sky ading an eae leat at he centr fsck ofthe fring Before cating your fabri, add 94 (2. cents back eam or ces back ld of the pam, so yout actualy ading a teal of 112" (G8 cr) of ena far or ease Wah ight ies ‘gether 34” (on nay fom the center back ede, sith atthe top ad botom ofthe Bac pice pall to the center back edge fr 2” (cn) Bact at the eam ends. In beter those permanent stiching lines bast along the 34° (2c in. ress he ease leat to one sie and bast acres the top and ‘otto to hold the plat in lace Once the ings sean into the arent remove te basting to open the ese let, INTERFACING Host Buda garments use usbie imerlacing, end he peces that equ ineracing ae indeed on he cating layt by ry shag, He {abr rtcompatble wih fusible nteraing ‘bts sew in. Fallon the mondacie’s insuuctons fr al ube mts, 35 some ‘equite moisture for proper sing and ote donot Alas test inteacing on a cap of your garment {abr to be sure its compatible ad ads the needed ‘ody and tay. INVISIBLE ZIPPER Many Burda designs Festa an inl 2iper—she easy nstal and na topstitching shows onthe fished application, vain fo a dean, sooth seam. Yu wil need 3 special iil per foo for nstalaton an ‘they avalable whee appers ae sold Bese to get the version that ts your mactne model isle “oper arise hefore the ea is se, uke ‘enventonal ope where the seam seun to the ‘pening an then he Zope instal. NOTIONS Each gate indicates ncsins spectro ‘that desion In asitin you vil equi abc scissor prs tal’ chal, matching treads, and cer seeing eset plus too fr tracing pati lcs indung pape Ssor ules te, nd pattern paper. Games wth pes require the we (of appr foto your machine—elthe a andar aot fer regular pes, ofa isle 2ippe fot for iil pers ‘SEAM FINISHING i ays 2 good es to rsh ‘seam aw edges on ve fabric, ut ks do not sual requtefrising, Seam allnarces should be ‘ined separately ures ober inated sean covered gag of overcast sth fishing, © serge a eps Lined garments general not requte seam fnshing as seams wl be encase by then UNDERSTITCHING Underschng involves edge sttchng the seam allowance othe garment underside that he ning ot fcing remains on the inside ofthe gament ard does'trol out To undesstch,pess the seam alowancs toward the liting ar facing, hen trim and rade the seam llovances and clip carves f need rom the fic ‘igh side, edgesch onthe ningfacng side sening treugh al sar allances to hold ther in place Undestiztngis nt vibe on te outside of he ‘gament ais most common ound along neckines ‘and armholes, To install an invisible zipper, follow these steps: sper hcp rd ch ack oh ou tubal eel teseanlne manner the agp tape ane a Fle oper pt ie sono te ibe ih cl nweeninn etm slap eve spe seolne sing ‘hh absentee ete wil Seon these de ste ab eae) in thespner tne lee oro nt apr al etd pose aed perio ed Pehl per et oe he apes teclisinore othe rots nde aed ne it te ‘eons She ern pe om he ‘iota Ch ie (Place theater pe tae rights down cn thesis ofthe arc ofthe oppose opening edge Algn, pr and sew the athe side ofthe zperin place js 5 you ci in the previous step, Clese the zppet. Isic the sam blow the zope om the tom tothe top. As you approach the bottom ofthe app ute os loner end of he pe ut ofthe way. Stich close as pose tothe last stiches of the _ipper seams Teper al resins lose ‘ide he garment, or ou can im and ind the ends ceed GLOSSARY O F TERMS AND TECHNIQUES BACKSTITCH Sitchin in eversefot a sot ddstance athe beginning and end of sean to secur thestithes: Mest machines havea buon or ‘of this uncon (also cae bcktac BASTING Using loa, ase stiches to hold something in place ergot To baste by machin, we the longest tight sth ngth avaale on yourmachineTo baste by hand, se stitches at lest 1X (6mm lng, Use a convasing ead to make the stiches easier to spot fer emoval BIAS The cecton acs faba slated ata <5-degee ange fom the lenthwse or sone gan Te bas as igh seth ar very dep, DART This sitched wlangua fold used 0 give shape and form to the abc ot body cures. EDGESTITCH A sor ftps laced ey cose (fei [2-3 mm) toa ede oan evn seamine FABRIC GRAIN The tans crestedna woven abc bythe threads that ie! ese and cossnise Te gts an urs pal the ehoae he cossise ri stold anys be pspendcar i the lense tends nt bis teense 66 burdastyle.com sens 2014 (ln us ng he ves (ibs), parle tothe <6 wth he css ginning long the ses (especie wales, GGRAINUINE & patem marking shoaing the ‘iecion of he ain. Make sine the nine rake onthe patom rns paral tothe lenathaise gain of yout foi, ness the gainlne Is specially marked as aosniseo bis, INTERFACING Matera ued stale or nore fac Fuse tracing tas an adhesive cating an one se that adheres a fabric when ior. RIGHT SIDE Te fon side, che see that shoul ben the ude of a frshed garment. On 2 print fabric he pit be suonger on theright se of the fai. RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER Th ht sds of to Fariclaers shuld be facing ach ates SEAM ALLOWANCE The amount of abc betwsen thera edoe andthe seamie. SEIVAGE Ts the ighty woven border onthe lenathnise des o woven fabric and te ished leogtise edges of kit bc STITCH INTHE DITCH Ly the gare ioht-side ‘punde the presser foot and se det on the seamlie" atch.” The siches wll been the tw fabric peces and dsappeat ito the Sean. TOPSTITCH Used io hold pieces imi in place an tr tad a decorate feta optic ssp 2 Sitch that can be seen onthe outside othe danmert of lc. To tpstch, maka line of ‘thing on he ouside iat sie ofthe pece aly 2st tance frm an esting sea ot de. LUNDERSTITCHING A neo siches paced ona facing (or nn) very nea the acglgaent seam. Udestiching used olde seam allowances and facing tagether and to prevent the ‘acing rom olin toward the curse ofthe aimee. WRONG SIDE The voong sl ofthe fic isthe underside, ofthe de tat shouldbe onthe ide af frished garment. Ona prin fabric the pint wb Ege o es obvious on he wong side ot the fabri {6 2014\eriag Aenne Burda GmbH & Co.KG, Hubert Burd Pate 27762 Ofenbur. Gann All sigs are copyrighted Copying or commer purposes prohibited.102- 022014-US Dress PATTER AUALASLE on mses Burda sizes 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 ‘on page 32 Length from waist! 24%" (63 em) Materials Silk jacquard, 54" (137 em) wide: 294 yes 2.1m) forall sizes Interfacing Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 9* (23 em) lena, 2 sew-on pin backs Black pattern line, sheets crc! Pattern pieces 1 t0 8 Size 17 sesso ee Size 18 ———— Size 19 ——— Size 20 Size 21 Vt Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation Trace pleces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Cut cut al paper pieces. Thepleataronscon pce 1 ae marked for sae 17, forthe saz, remark pest entows according to Size lines. Cutting Lay out the pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Silk jaca Tiront, cut 2 center back, cut 1 on fold 3 side back, cut 2 4 nght tron ski, cut 1 5 left tron skirt, cut 1 6 back skirt, cut 1 on fold 7 font facing, cut 1 on fold 8 back facing, cut 1 on fold For the flowers: 2) 20 circles, 3%" @ cm) diameter, and 1) 12 cices, 4" (10 cm) diameter Interfacing CCut from shaded areas on cutting layout, Construction fm Pleats: On frant piece, work trom fabric right side to lay shoulder pleats in rection of arrows. Baste pleats in piace For each pleat on lower front edge, fold ‘ont so that pleat lines meet, right sides together. Pin pleat lines together, from lower edge to pleat arrow, and site, Lay pleats in irection of arrows and baste to lower edge. Cutting layout Silk jacquard, 54° (137 cm) wide Sizes 17 to 21 Fold a? selage sehage Pr eee ratte I Stitch side backs to center back; prese seam allowances open, Stich bodice front to bodice back at right side seam; press seam allowances open, IH Neck facing, shoulder seams: On facing, stitch right side seam as mirror Image of bodice seam. Press seam allowances open. Finish lower facing ledge. Press seam allowances on shoulder edges to facing wrong side Sew facing to neck and armhale edges, beginning and ending exactly at marked shoulder line, Tim seam allowances and Clip curves. Tur facing to inside, pushing shoulder edges down between facing and dress. Press neck edges. Sew bodice front to badlice hack at shoulder seams, leaving facing tre. Press seam allowances open and slide them under facing edges. Hand-sttch shoulder edges of facing together. Stitch skirt carts, beginning at upper ledge, Press darts toward center front and center back I Stich front skirt sections together; press seam allowances open 1 Work from skirt fabric right side to lay smal pleats in direction of arrows. Baste pleats to upper skirt edge. Lay large pleats in direction of arrows and baste I Stitch right side seam and press seam allowances open. Stitch skirt to bodice, matching seamlines. Press seam allowances toward bodice Insert invisible zipper in et side seam; follow instructions on page 66. Sew seam from lower edge to zinger opening. Fold top ends of zipper tapes over upper Aight sides together on Alouble fabri ight side Up onsingle layer of fabric Lay the front Dlece and the ‘gmmmetrc front sire Diseeron fabric right Sie prince ices up. SPRING 2016 burdastyle.com 67project instructions seam allowance edges and sew to armhole facings, together with seam allowances, Finish lower edge of skirt and hem. 1 Flowers: Hand-sew a circle of running stiches in center of each fabric arcle Pull threads to gather circle to a flower shape; tie off threads, Lay flower pieces together and sew painted ends together. Sew flowers to pin backs. ‘Attach flowers to shoulder and to skirt attachment seam, over pests ae. il Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 ‘on page 51 Side length: 12° (20 em) (Including waistband) Materials Lace fabric with two scalloped eds, 50° (127 cm: sizes 36, 38, 40: 1 yd (9 i); sizes 42, 4a: 1A ye (1 m) ‘Créne-back satin (ining), 54” (137 cm} Sizes 36, 38: 7 ya (85 my, sizes: 40, 42, 44:1 yd (9 m) Interfacing Notions: 1 zipper, sizes 36, 38, 40: 5 (12 em); sizes 2, dd 6° (14 cm); 1 seve (on hook fastener; 1 flat button, 102.1- 022014-Us Lace Shorts #ee PATTERUAILABLE OnInseR SET Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and intraductory information. Preparation Trace pieces 21-26 from pattern sheet. ‘Trace facing from piece 23 as a separate pattern piece, The sttcring In at the ipper opening is rmatked forsee 35, For sizes 38 44, mack the stiching ine the same dstance rom center fronts for siz 36, noting length of opening ‘Seam and hem allowances 7A Green pattern line, sheets B82 Pattern pieces 21 to 26 Size 36 Cutting layouts Lace, 50" (127 cm) wide scallopec-tdge ripe-ock satin, sear end wile fed Fold the fabric ax shown in the cutting layout right sides together Bin Scalloped lace edges together exactly Match scallops at side seams 26 back waistband, cut 2 Lay hem edges of pieces 21 and 22 on the scalloped edge of the lace CrBpe-back satin 21 shorts front, cut 2 22 shorts ack, cut 2 23 side hip yoke with Integrated pocket piece, cut 2 24 pocket, cut 2 25 front waistband, cut 4 26 back waistband, cut 4 2) left underiap, sizes 36, 38, 40: 5 (13 em), sizes 42, 4d: 6" (15 em) long, and 324" (9.5 cm) wide (including sear allowances) Cut lining pieces on lengthwise grain Jnterfacing: ‘Cut from shaded areas on pattern layout Construction Fin lining pieces to corresponding shorts front and back lace pieces wih fight side of fining facing wrong side of lace. Press lower edges of lining pieces to ‘wrong side, along inner edge of lace scallops. Finish lower ining leg edges vith closely spaced zigzag stitching Baste lace waistband pieces to lining pieces. with wrong side of lace facing Fight side of lining. Baste lace facings to hin yoke lining pieces and stitch inner edges in place. reat these pieces as one layer of fabric for construction. 1m Stich darts in shorts backs and press toward center back. Fold pleats in shorts fronts in tection of arrows; baste. Hin yoke pockets Stitch pocket pieces to shorts front pocket opening edges, right sides together. Tutn pocket pieces up and stitch to seam allowances, close 10 Seams. Turn packet pieces to inside Pin pocket opening edges to side hip yokes, a placernent lines, On inside, Stiteh pocket pieces together. Baste pocket pieces to shorts front wrong side, first trimming away seam allowance of Fight pocket piece along center front 1 Stich site seams and inside leg sears. Fressseam alliances open. Stich center ‘ont seam from opening mark to inside leg 1 Zipper: Press self-lacings on opening edges to inside ~ along center front on the right and ¥" (5 mm) before center No hem allowance on lower leq edge of following numbered pieces shorts Lace fabric: 21 shorts front, cut 2 22 shorts back, cut 2 23 facing for side hip yoke, cut 2 25 front waistband, cut 2 front on the left Siten zipper under left slit edge (underlap), stitching clase to Zipper teeth. Pin opening closed, matching center fronts. Stitch loose Zipper tape to right facing, without catching shorts piece. Baste facing in Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the 68 burdastyle.com SPRING 2014place. Topstiteh opening trom upper fecige to 12" (3 cm) before end, as marked. Fold underlap piece lengthwise, Fight sides together. Sitch across lower fend. Turn right side out. Lay underiap under left opening edge and pin te facing, Stite facing to underiap, clase to zipper attachment seam. Lay opening Closed again and topstiteh to the end, ‘atching underiep. Waistband and center back seam: Stiteh side seams on walstbands, Stitch ‘outer waistband to shorts upper edges, leauing right waistband end extending from center frant and stitching left waistband end to sit underlap. Prese attachment seam allowances taward ‘waistband pieces, Fin inside waistband fn attacheo outer waistband, right sides together. Stitch across front waistband fends (at center frant on the ight) and ‘along upper waistband edges. Thm seam allowances, trimming comers diagonally, In back, turn inside waistband pieces up ‘and press seam open al upper waistband ledge 4” (10 crn) long. Stitch center back seam, stitching across waistband ends. Press seam onen from upper edge to beginning of crotch curve. Da not press seam allowances flat along crotch curve Turn waistband right side out, turn inside cedige under, and baste over attachment seam, Work from auter side of shorts to stitch in the diteh along seam line 1m Sow hook fastener to waistband. Work a buttonhole in left waistband eng, Sew autton to inner side of waistband, 106-022014 -US Trousers soee PATTERN AVAILABLE AS ‘A DOWNLOAD At ip: yoska Burda sizes 36, 38, 0, 42, 44 ‘on page 31 Side length: 4314" (110 em) Leg circumference: 14° (25 cm) Upper ecige sits 11%" (3 cm) below waist Materials Lamb nappa leather: To make this style in size 26, you will ned 3 leather skins vith a total of approximately 28 sa f(1 sq. ft = 30x 30 cm). Ask your leather dealer about larger sizes since leather skins can vary greatly Take paper pattern with you when purchasing leather Lining, 54* (137 em) wide: 1 yes (1.2 m) forall sizes Fusible interfacing Notions: batting, 12* x 16" (30 x ‘40 em); zipper, sizes 36, 38, 40: 5° (14 cm) long; Sizes 42, 48: 7° (16 cm) Jong; 3 flat Buttons, 4° (1.2 cm); glue stick Notes on working with leather (or faux leathery We recommend frst making ‘garment from inexpensive cotton, then transfer any required alterations to paper pattern pieces before cutting out leather. Ayoid basting leather and ripping seams since needles holes may be permanent, Press leather from wvtang side (cover with 2 pressing cloth) with maderate heat and without steam; test a scrap fst. f you are working with very soft leather, fuse 27 (1 em) interfacing strips to seamline vurong sides Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation Trace pieces 21-25, 28, and 29 from patter sheet, joining pieces 22 and 223, together as marked, Cut pieces 21 and 22 apart an marked seamline. Cut out all paper pieces. To cut lining, glue cut-apart pieces together again The stitching line at zipper opening is rmatked for size 36. For sizes 38- 44, ‘mark stitching line same distance from center front as for size 36, nating enh cof opering. The packet lines on piece 21 are marked in full on pattern for size 36 only. For sizes 38- 44, complete pocket lines accordingly. ‘Seam and hem allowances Cut lower edge of trouser legs without hem allowances; trouser legs are let lunhemmed Cutting Cut the following numbered pieces: Leather 21 front trouser cut apart, cut 2 22 back trouser, cut apart, cut 2 23 font facing, cut 2 24 back facing cut 1 on fold 25 ltt underlay, cut 1 28 ip, cat 4 2 welt tris, 694° (17 cm) x 1%" (em) wide (neues sears) nin: POR ca Teaco Cn 21 to lining tine and without opening allowance 22 ta lining tine 25 left underlap, et 1 29 pocket, cut 4 (2 just to lining fine) 2 rectangles, size 36:9 (24.cm) size 38: 1072" (25 em); size do: 101" (26 cm); size 42: 10%" (27 em) size Aa 1A" QB cm) wide, and 20° (25 em) long Interfacing (Cut and fuse interfacing to facings, right opening facing, one underiap piece, anc outer flaps, Batting: Baste batting to wrong side of lining rectangle. Construction I Glue tning rectangles with batting on ‘wong side of unper end of lower front -rouser pieces (ning side up) as backing for topstcing.Topstich rouse paces as marked, Tim exerting edoes of ing batune. I Stitch horizontal seams on front and back trouser nieces, Topsttch lower pigces close to seams I Stitch front darts and press to side 1 Construct bound buttonhales in interfaced flap pieces: For each Buttonhole, cut fo binding strips trom leftover leather, %" (2 cm) longer than finished buttonhole and '6* (1.2 cm) ‘wide, Fold binding strips in hait lengthwise, wrong side together, and slue exges together. Lay binding strips, (on flap pieces so that glued lengthwise edges meet over buttonhole marking, Stitch binding strips in lace, within buttonhole lenath, stitching exactly along middie of strips. Stash between stitching lines and cip diagonally toward teach last stitch, cutting only flap. Place folded edges of binding sips together and pull ends to inside. Turn under small ‘triangles at opening ends and stich to binding ends 1 Flaps: Stitch each interfaced flap piece to a non-interfaced fap piece leaving attachment edge open. Turn right-side fut. Topstitch flaps cose to edges. Stitch ‘long lines of buttonhole binding attachment seams. Work from wrong side, cut buttontiole open close to stitching 1m Pockets with flaps: Stitch flaps to fant trouser pisces along attachment line with flap points up. Wrong sides together, fold welt strips lengthwise and press, Lay folded welt strips on front SPRING 2016 burdastyle.com 69PN emer Lacy trouser so that fold edges lie %* (2 em) below flap attachment seams. Stitch welts in place 4" (1 cm) from fold edge Slash between stitching lines and clip diagonally toward each last stitch, cutting only trouser. Turn welts up and press, Lay flaps over pocket openings {and press, Turn small triangles at pocket ‘opening ends to inside and stitch to ‘welts, from seam end to seam end. Stitch leach shorter pocket piece to welt attachment seam allowances, Turn pocket pieces dawn and press. Topstiteh Irouser pieces close to ends of welts and Welt attachment seams, Stitch longer pocket pieces to fiap attachment seams Stitch pocket edges together. Topstteh trouser pieces close to flap attachment seam and dart seam, I Stretch inside feg seam edges of back trouser pieces above marking; press to ‘match corresponding edges on front trousers. 1 Stitch back darts, Cut darts open along center to 17" ( em) above points. Press darts open, pressing points tat Glue dart seam allowances down, 1 Stich side seams and inside leo seams. Press seam allowances toward ‘rouser front, Topstitch close to seams, Stitch a continuous seam from center {ont below zipper opening mark around to center back waistline. Press seam allowances onto right trouser pieces. 1m Stitch darts and seams of lining, leaving zipper opening %" (2 em) longer than on trousers, Hem trouser lining Stich side seams of facing, Lay facing on Upper edge of lining, with wrong side facing right side. Stitch close to lower {20ge and stitch unper edge to seam allowance, 1 Zinper and upper trouser edge: Press self-facings on opening edges to inside along center front on right and ie" (G mm) befare center front on right Stitch zipper under left opening edge (underiap) close to teeth. Fin opening closed, matching center fronts. Stitch loose Zipper tape to right facing only (not catching trouser piece). Stitch both Lnderlap pieces together, leaving straight attachment edge open. Tim sears dllowances. Turn underlap right-side out and press. Stitch buttonhole. Lay Lnderlap under left opening edge and pin to facing, Stitch facing to underlap, close to zipper seam. Pin upper facing with Jining to upper trousers edge, right sides together. At right opening edge, turn narrow front facing edge back on 70 burdastyle.com SPRING 2014 rmatked stitching ine and pin to upper ledge. At left opening edge, turn narrow font facing edge back at underlap attachment seam and pin, Turn right facing to outside and pin to upper trouser edge. Stitch along unper trouser edge. Turn zipper facing to inside. Turn Upper facing with lining up. Topstich right opering edge vertically, ftom unner edge to 114" @ cin) before end, as marked, catching facing. Close opening and tapstitch to end, catching underian, Topstitch right half of trousers close to center seam. Turn facing and lining to Inside. Topstiteh %" (6 mm) frem upper ‘trouser edge. At left opening edge, tuin ‘acing and lining edges under and sew to underlap attachment seam. At right ‘pening edge, turn facing and lining ledges under and sew to zipper stitching line 2%" (7 cm) long, beginning at upper edge. Leave remainder loose, 106.1- 022014-US Dress @ PATER AVAILABLE AS ‘ADOALGAD AT: tienen Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, fon page 35 Lengtn from walst: 412" (106 em) Note: For this dress the auter fabric is aso used as ining, Materials Satin print, 60° (152.5 em) wide: 4 yds (2.60 m forall sizes Pain satin, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: % yd (65 m) forall sizes Fusible interfacing Notion: ¥ invisible zipper, 16° (40cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation Trace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Glue pieces 1 and 1a and 2 and 2a together a5 marked and lengtnen as indicates Cut out all paper pieces Seam and hem allowances Cut lining pieces with 4" (1.5 em) hem allowances Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and gin in place. Cut the {ollowing numbered pieces: Print satin 1 front with cuton left sleeve, cut 1 2 back with cut-on let sleeve, cut 1 3 lining front, cut 1 4 lining back, cut 1 3) bas stip for et armhole (ining), size 36: 171A" (4d cm) size 38: 18) (46 cm); size 40: 18/4" (47 cm); size 42 19)" (49 em); size 4A: 19%" (50 cm) long, and 1%" (4 cm) wide (including seam allowances) Plain satin 5 front neck band, cut 1 6 back neck bang, cut 1 7 front sieeve band, cut 1 2 back sleeve band, cut 1 Interfacing: Cut fom shared areas on cutting layout Fuse Yo" (2 cm-avde stp to wrong side of 2per opening edges Construction 1m Gn front piece, stitch right bust dart. Prose dart down, 1 Nock bands: On lower edge of each heck band, press seam allowances to wrong side. Baste front band to upper front edge, with wrong side facing right side, Baste back band to upper back ledge in same manner. Edgestitch lower ‘edges in place, 1 Sleeve bands: On narrow lower end ‘and on inside edge of each band, press seam allowances to wrong side, Working ‘rom inside, pin each band to lower edge ff cut-on sleeve, with right side facing ‘wrong side. Stich along seamline at lower end stitching exactly to corner (earn number 3). rim seam allowances ‘and clip side seam allowances into ormet, Turn bands to outside and baste Press lower sleeve edges. Edgestitch turned-under andl edges in place, |W Sew invisible zipper to right side edges, see instructions on page 66. Stitch right side seam fram lower edge to Zipper. 1m Sitch let side seam. Abowe seam, stich ‘ont and back together on marked stching line as fra seam mark, wong sides together. 1m Sew lining: Stitch darts in lining front, Press darts down. stiten shoulder seam, Fold bias strip lengths, wrong sides together, and press. Pin folded bias sip 10 armhole edge so that folded stripledge lies on garment piece, %* (1 em) past seamline. Sutch along marked seamline. Tim seam allowances. Turn bias strip to inside. Topsiten armhole ledge. Finish lower lining edge. Stich left side seam of lining, leaving opening in fight side seam. 1m Face neck edge with lining: Pi ining to dress neck edae, right sides together ‘Stith along neck edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn lining up and Uunderstiteh. Tur lining to inside and hand-stitch to zinger tape edges, Wi Hana-stiteh dress her in place 108- 022014- USDress © PATTER AMLIB on ser seer Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 ‘on page 50, Length trom walst: 23° (58 em) Materials Crépe-back satin, 94° (137 cin) wide Sizes 36, 38, £0,210 yds (2.2 mj sizes 42, 44: 2% yas (2.25 m) fusible interfacing Notion: fusible bias stay tape Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation Trace peces 21-24 from pattern sheet Trace packet piece from piece 21 as ¢ separate pattern piece, marking the weit ‘tachment line, Cut out all paper pieces, The pleat arrows on piece 21 are marked {or ze 36. For remaining sizes, remark the pleat arrows according to size ines, ‘Seam and hem allowances Neck band and band attachment edge, A (6mm) Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Crépe-back satin 2 front, cut 1 on fold 21 pocket, cut & @ only to welt attachment tine) 22 back, cut 1 an a fold 23 front neck band, cut 1 on Fold 24 back neck band, cut 100 fold 2)2 weit strips, 7¥* (18 cm) long, and 1 5° (cm) wide (including seam allowances) 1) 2 bias armhole binding strips, size 36: 19° (a8 em); size 38: 1914" (49 cm) size 40: 1934" (50 cin); size 42: 20%" (51 cm); size 44: 20%" (52 em) long, and 1A" 3 cm) wide (including seam allowances) (optional tie belt size 36: 802%" (205 em), szes 38, 40: 8234" (210 cm): size 42: 8474" (215 cm) size 40: B64" (220 cin} long, and 214" (6.5 cm) wide including seam allowances) Interfacing Cut from shaded areas on pattern layout. Also fuse 1/4" (3 emwide strips, to wrong side of fabric, aver pocket ‘markings. Fuse stay tape to wrong side of front shoulder seam edges. Construction 1 Front single welt pockets: Mark placement line %" (Irn from each welt attachment line (finished welt width, Foic welt strips lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Baste folded welt strips to welt attachment lines so that folded edge of each welt meets placement line and open long edges lie between pocket lines, stitch welts in place along welt attachment ines. Stitch langer pocket pieces to pocket ‘attachment lines. lash betveen lines of Cutting layout CCrépe-back satin, 5 old sehage Feld Pr eee ratte stitching and clip diagonally toward each last stitch but do not cutting into welts oF pocket piaces. Turn welts toward pocket opening and turn pocket pieces to inside. Stitch remaining pocket pieces 1 seam allowances of welt attachment seams Fold small triangles at pocket ‘opening ends to inside and stitch to ‘welts and pocket pieces, from seam end to seam end. Stitch pocket pieces together WE Lay front neck pleats in direction of arrows and baste, Also baste pleat folds 4" (em) long, Stitch shoulder seams, beginning exactly at marked armhole edges, irish seam allowances together and press toward back i Stitch neck band shoulder seams Press seam allowances open. Working ‘rom inside, stitch neck band to neck ledge, right side facing wrong side. Turn band to outside, turn edge under and edgestiteh in place 'W Armholes and side seams: On front and back, clip seam allowances at mark Blue pattern line, sheets cd Pattern pieces 21 to 24 ‘Size 36 Size3g —— Fold the fabric shown in the cutong layout right Ses together on a double layer of fabric right side upon asingl ayer: SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 71Pea mn a Cae CIS rear seam number 3, then trim away seam allowances along armhole edges. Press binding strip as described for neck edge, Unfold pressed stip and pin to armhole edges, from seam marks, right sides together Leave ends extending at ‘eam marks, Stitch binding in place, (6 mm) from edge, along pressed fol. Tum ends of binding up and pin. Stitch side seams, Finish seam allowances ‘together and press toward front. Remave pins from binding. Fold binding over armhole edges to Inside, turn edges Under, and hand-sitch to attachment seams, Sew ends of binding in place 1 Press hem allowance to inside ant sew in place by hand. At vist level, make 17° @ emblong thread loops, over side seams. For each loop, stretch’3~4 threads then cover them with Buttonhole stitch Im Fold tie belt lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch %" (1.5 cm from folded lege. Turn belt rightsside out and press. ‘um open belt ends to inside and hand stitch closed, 109B- = 022014- i a UsDresses | : ° raven aout on ser ier Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 fon page 51 Length from waist: 2014" (52 em) Materials Boucle, 60° (152.5 cm) wide: 1% yds (1-1 mi forall sizes ning, 54° (137 cm) wide: 1% yds (1.1 m) {or all sizes Interfacing Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 16° (40 em) ong, 2 hooks and eyes; three 2° (5 cmong sevvon oval ems; bout 45 sew-on gems inassorted shapes and sizes; seed beads. Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation “ace pieces 21-24 trom pattern sheet Lengthen pieces 21 and 22 as insleated Cutout all paper pices. 72 burdastyle.com SPRING 2014 Black pattern line, sheets AVAZ Pattern pieces 21 to 24 Size 34 Cutting layouts Boucle, 60" (152.5 cm) wide fold Lining, 54° (137 em) wide ol. Fold te fabric shown inthe ‘iting layout right sides together. ‘To cut lining, lay pieces 21 and 23, and pieces 22 and 24 together. Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Boucle: 21 front, cut 1 on fold 22 back, cut 1 on fold 23 front neck band, cut 1 on fold 2A back neck band, cut 1 01 fold Linina: 21 + 23 front lining, cut 10n fold 22+ 24 back lining, cut 1 on fold Jnteracing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout, Construction Stich bust darts, Press darts up, Stitch front neck band to front and stiteh back neck band to back. Tim seam allowances and press seam allowances toward neck bands. 1m Stich darts in lining front. On back piece, mark slit at center back with basting thread, fuse a %* (2 em-wide Strip of interfacing to wrong side, over siitmark, 1 Neckline finishing: On lining pieces, ess shoulder seam allowances to wrong side. Pin lining pieces to front and back, fight sides together. On front, stitch along neck and armhole edges. On back, stitch along marked neck edge, then stiteh closely around sit mark, and along ‘second half of neck edge. Stitch along back armhole edges. Trim seam allowances and slash sit between stitching lines. Turn lining to inside and press edges. Stitch dress shoulder seams, leaving facings fee, Press seam allowances open and slide sear allowances under lining edges. Hand: stiteh shoulder edges of ining together. 1 Stich right side seam of dress fabric, not catching seam allowances at armboles. Then stitch sige seam of lining separately 1 Atleft armhole edge, turn lining up again, Sew invisible zipper to left ‘opening edges, see te instructions on age 66. Tur in upper ends of zipper ‘apes. Stitch left side seam from hem edge to zipper Stitch lining left side seam below opening mark. Turn lining edges under and sew to zipper tapes. 1m Turn dress hom allowance to inside, baste, and press. Hand-stitch in place.Turn lining hem allowance to wrong side, turn edge under, and stitch so lining is 24° (2 am shorter than dress. Tack lower lining edge to each side sear with @ thread bar. mL At back slt edge, make two thread loops on let. Sew hooks and eyes to ‘opposite edges. 1 Gems and beads: Sew three oval gems to center front neck edge. Pace various ‘other gems on front as you like and sew in place. String seed beads onto along thread. Place the string of beads around the gems and sew in place. Hide thread ends, 112- 022014-US Trousers #@ PATER AVAL On mses SHEET Burda sizes 34, 36, 38,40, 42, 44 ‘on page 37 Side length: 43" (109 crn) Hem circumference: 24° (60 cm) Upper edge sits %” (2 cm) below waist Materials Wool satin, 60° (152.5 em) wide: sizes 34, 36. 1¥ yds (1.4 my, sizes 38, 40: 1. ys (1.45 m); sizes 42, 44; 2 yas tm Interfacing Notion: 1 inisblepper 9° 22 am) long Read Burda instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and inerSduetory information Preparation Trace pattern pleces 3-7 trom pattern sheet. Lengthen pieces 5 and 6 a5, indicated. cutting Lay out patter pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces 3 front acing, cut 1 on fold 4 back facing, cut 2 5 font trouser, cut 2 6 back trouser cut 2 7 pocket, cut 4 Intertacing Cut fom shaded areas on cutting layout. Extra pattern, shaded pink Cutting layouts Wool satin, 60° (152.5 cm) wide Sizes 34-40 Sehages Cut trom a double layer of fabric, right sides together Pr eee ratte Construction I Stitch darts in trouser fronts and backs and press toward center. Stitch side Seams, Press seams open, Patch pockets: For each pocket, stitch ‘wo pocket pieces right sides together, Jeaving an opening for turning, Turn pockets right-side out. Sew openings Closed. Pin pockets to trouser legs, over side seams, following placement lines. Stitch /A" (6 mm from pocket edges, Stitch inside leg seams. 1 Sew invisible zipper to back opening ledges; see mnatructions an page 66. Stitch center frant and back seam a8 a continuous seam up to zipper. In front, press center seam open, from upper edge to beginning of crotch curve. Do not press seam allowances flat along eurve. I Stitch facing side seams and press seam allowances open WW Upper edge of trouser Pin facing to ‘touser upper edge. At zipper openina, turn facing ends back Me" (5 mm) before ‘opening edge, and pin to upper edge. “Turn seam allowances on trouser opening ledges to autside and pin to upper edge, ‘ve facing. Stitch along upper edge Turn seam allowances at opening edges to inside. Turn facing up and understitch a5 far as possible, Turn facing to inside ‘and sew to zipper tapes and to seams 1m Press hom allowances to inside and hhand-stitch in place 112B- 022014-US. Balloon Top ¢€ Pare avaABLE on se Hee Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 ‘on page 55 Length from waist: 6* (15 em) Materials Voll, 54” (137 em) wide: sizes 34, 36, 53:2 yas (1.9 m); size 40, 42: 214 yds mn Notion: elastic" (6 mm) wide: sizes 34, 36:1 yd (9 my); 1 yds (9 m) Read Burda instructions (on page 64) {for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 73project instructions Preparation cutting “ace pieces 1-4 from pattem sheet. Cut Lay out pattrn pieces on fabric as out all paper pieces shown and pin place Cut the folowing The pleat arfows for bottom pleats on numbered pieces: pieces 3 and 4 are for size 34 forthe Vile Sther sizes, matk arrows accordingly. ——Vinne front, cut 1 on fold Seam and hem allowances 3 outer front, cut 1 Cut seams and edges %" (Tem upper 4 outer back, cut elgg of ort ana back, 4" (cm lower 3)? straps size 34: 8 (21 em): sizes erg, 58" (1.5 em. 36, 38: 876° 22 cm); size 40,42: 86 fees ee a Pattern pieces 1 and 2 (@3 cm) long, and" (10 em) wide (including seam allowances) 2 bias strips for armholes, 17%" (45 cm) long, and 1%" (4 cm) wide . Construction See detailed instructions for style BY 112A-022014-US on page 108 of the Green pattern line, Sheet At, magazine. H . ‘A2, BI, B2, C1, C2 Pattern pieces 1to 4 113- 022014- US Trousers youts o ‘Stretch denim, 60" (152.5 cm) TERM AMAAOLE wide onsen set sizes 34-38 Burda sizes 34, 36, 38,40, 42, 44 fon page 57 Side length from waistband seam: 25%" (65cm) Leg hem circumference: 16" (40 em) Waistband seam sits at natural waist Materials Size 40 Sueich denim, 69" (1525 cm wide: fold Cutting layout Sree 3 36,3690 9 mane A Vole 51cm wie omen (el cee Finny i sontestng ear see e214 ates Ys ity tues 36°38, 40: Ye yes 12 y toy ses a2 4 1 9051.3) nebo sage Notion: 1 zipper 8° (20 cm long; ready made piping: size 34: 1% yds (1-4 my); sizes 36, 38, 40: 174 yds (1.2 my size 42, 448: 1 yBs (1.3 m) Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information, sehvage Rightsie together on a double fabric Preparation sehager ‘ayer ight ste ap on 3 single fri Trace pieces 1-2 trom pattern sheet. Cut Cut froma double layer of layer Place asym pecs 3nd 4 ae 2 contac ght, printed sie) Up ‘out all paper pieces Saleh a eseede 74 burdastyle.com sPriNa 2014Hem allowance Cut hem %" (1.5 em) Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as, shown and pin in place. Cut the fellowing numbered pieces: Stretch denim front trouser, cut 2 2 back trouser, cut 2 ‘a)wastband, sie 34: 25%" (65 cm); sie 26 27'A" (69 cm size 38:28" (73 cm); size 440: 504" (77 em; size 42: 32° (BI cm); size 448: 33147 5 cry long, 34" (95 cm) {including seam allowances) Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout. Construction I Stretch seam edes: Lay back trouser pieces together, right sides together, Press inside leg edges above seam with steam Iron of under a damp cloth 12 suetch them to match corresponding front edoes IM Stitch darts and press toward center. Stitch inside leg seams. Press seam allowances open, 1 Lay piping along edges of lower sits and leg openings so that piping cord les ‘on garment piece. At sit marks, fold ‘ends of piping out of way, over seam allowance, Use a zipper foot to stitch clase to piping cord. Trim seam allowances close to piping flange anc finish edges together. Turn piping cord downto side, turning seam allowances ta inside, and prese Stitch side seams, leaving opening in lett side seam for zipper. Press seam allowances open, 1m Pull ane trouser leg into the other, fight sides together. Stitch center front ‘and center back seam a5 continuous seam, Press center seam allowances ‘open, fram each unper edge to beginning of crotch curve. Da not press seam allowances flat along cure. Fold waistoand in half lengthwise, \verong sides together Press upper waistband fold, Untold waistband; stitch ‘waistband to upper trousers edge. Press seam allowances toward waistband 1m Press zipper opening seam allowances to inside. Beginning at upper waistbang folded edge, stitch zipper under opening leciges so that zipper teeth are covered Fold waistband to inside again and sew ta zipper tapes. Topstitch waistband ‘lose to attachment seam 113.1- 022014-US Shirt °¢ Pave ALE ONINSERT SET Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 fon page 33 Back length: 24° (60 em) Materials Stretch Lycra knit, 60° (152.5 cm) wide Sizes 34, 36, 38: M6 yd (8 rm), sizes a0, 42, 8: 1 ye (9 mn) Notion: twin needle Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and Introductory information. Preparation Trace pieces 1-4 from pattern sheet. Cut ‘ut all paper pieces. Seam and hem allowances ‘Sleeve hems, 24" an) Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces ‘front, cut 1 on fold 2 back, cut 1 on fole 3 side piece, cut 2 Asleeve, cut 2 2) facing strip for neck edge, size 34: 23" (58 cm); size 36: 23%" (60 cm), size 38: 2418" (62 cm); size 40: 2514" {64 em); size 42: 26° (66 cm); size 44 2634" (68 cr) long, and 13s" (4mm) wide {including seam allowances) 12 facing strips for armhole edges, size 3a: 5" (12.5 em) size 36: S's" (13 cm) size 38: 5%" (13.5 cmp size 40: 5A" (14 em); size 42: 5%" (14.5 em): size 4a: 6" (15.cm) long, and 134" (4.em) wide (including sear allowances) Construction [Note: Stitch seams on stretch fabrics with 2 special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or with a serger. Stitch hems with a twin needle to keep them stretchable. I Stitch side pieces to fant, easing ‘ont trom dot to dot. Stitch side pieces, to back. Press seam allowances toward center, Im ttch right shoulder seam. Press seam allowances open. Pr eee ratte “il Black patter ine, sheets DLD2 Pattern pieces 1 tod panne Cutting layout ‘Stretch lyera knit, 60° (152.5 em) wide fos Fala the fabri a shown, jn te cutting layout ight des together Im Fold neckline facing strip lengthwise, ‘wrong sides together, and press. Fin {folded facing strip to neck edge so that folded edge af strip lies on garment, Jo" (er) past seamline. Stitch along marked neck edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing strip to inside and press edge. 1 Open facing strip and stitch lett shoulder seam, joining stnp ends together, Press seam allowances open. “Turn facing stip to inside and topstiten (6 mm) from neck edge 1 Turn sleeve hem allowances to inside and stitch, Stitch sleeves to armhole ledges between section seams SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 75PN emer Lacy 1 Armholes: Fold armhole facing strips Inhalt lengthwise, wrong sides together, {and press, Pin Folded facing stips to armhole edges below sleeves so that strip folded edge lies on garment, 7" (ci) past seamiine, and strip ends le ‘over lower sleeve edges. Stitch along marked arole edges. him seam allowances. Turn facing strips to inside and press edges. Below sleeves, topstitch "(6 min) from armhole edges ~ at beginning and end of stitching, sew horizontally as a continuation of hem stitching line. 1m Press hem allowance to inside. From Fight side, use twin needle to stitch 14" (2.2 cm) from lower edge. 115-022014- US Corset Top ° PATTER AVLABLE AS ‘A DoweLoAD at ey ora Burda sizes 36, 38, 40,42, 44 fon page 56 Materials Pique, 54° (137 em Jaya (8 rm) forall Interfacing, Motion: hook-and-eye tape: 10° (25 cm) Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation “race pieces 1-6 trom pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces. cutting Lay out patter pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Pigus Teenter front, cut 2 2 side front, cut 2 3 center back, cut 1 on fold 4 side back, cut 2 5 front facing, cut 2 6 back facing, cut t on fold Interfacing Cut ftom shaded areas on cutting layout, 76 burdastyle.com SPRING 2014 Construction I Switch bust darts and press up, 1 Stitch front section seams, beginning exactly at upper seam mark. Stitch back section seas in same manner. Press seam allowances open Neck and armhole edues, shoulder seams: Press seam allowances on facing Shoulder seam edges to wrong side. Pin facings ta front and back pieces, right sides together. Stitch along neck edges, interrupting stitching at section seams and leaving section seam allowances ftee. Stitch facings ta armhole edges Tim seam allowances and clip curves, Clip facing seam allowances into corners. “Turn facings to inside and press edges, Understitch as far as possible. stitch shoulder seams, leaving facings fre. Press seam allowances open and slip seam allowances under facings. Hand- stitch shoulder edges of facings closed At armhole edges, tur facings up again. Stitch side seams as continuous seams. Turn facings to inside again. Sew Inside facing edges to sears. 1m Press hem allowance to inside and stitch © (2 em) from lower edge Fastening: Pin hook tape face down fon right front edge, so that the tape portion without hooks lies on seam allowance. Turn in ends of tape. Stitch tape to front seam allowance, close to hooks using zipper foot. Fo tape in half. Turn seam allowance with tape to inside. Edgestitch tape in place. Pin tape with eyes face down to let front edge, 0 thatthe tape stitching line atthe eves lies at marked front edge — eyes lie on sgarment piece; align positions with hooks. At upper and lower edges, turn ends of tape under and sew in place. Stitch eye tape to marked front edge, Carefully stitching over eyes, Turn seam allowance ta inside and exgestitch in place. Leave other half of tape extending, as underia, 116- f 022014- US Dress #@ PATERNAL onsen SET Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 ‘on page 59 Length tram waist 23° (58 em) Materials Stretch piqué, 54" (137 em): sizes 36, 38. 1/8 yds (1.30 mn); sizes 40, 42, 44 Weyds (1.4 m) Interfacing Nowons: Grosgrain ribbon, 2" (1 cm) wide sizes 36, 38, 40: Via ys (1 my, sizes 2, a4 ‘We y65 (1.1 minis ipper, 167 40cm) Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation ‘Trace pieces 1-8 fram the pattern sheet Cut out all paper pieces. Cutting Lay out patiern pieces on fabric as shown and gin in lace. Cut the following numbered pieces: steich orque Y center font, cut 1 on fold 2 side front, cut 2 3 center back, cut 1 on fold 4 sie back, cut 2 5 front facing, cut 1 on fold 6 back facing, cut | on fold 7 front skirt panel, cut 1 on fold & back skirt panel, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on curting layout Construction Stitch ust darts. Press darts up. Stitch front section seams, beginning ‘exactly at top seam mark, Stitch back section seams in same manner. Press seams open. Nec and armhole edges, shoulder seams: Press seam allowances on facing shoulder seam edges to wrong side. Pin ‘acings to front and back pleces, right Sides together, Stitch along neck edges, interrupting stitching at section seams and leaving section seam alawances fee. Stitch facings to armhole edges.Blue pattem line, sheets AY-A2 Cutting wide Sizes 36, 38 Fold Em iy Stretch piqué, 54° (137 cm) ba4 Fold Fold {Fold the fabric shown n the cutting outs. Fold ‘selvages layout right sides together. ‘rim seam allowances and clip curves CCip facing seam allowances into corners and at front neck point. Tun facings to Inside and press edges. Understtch as far 25 possible, Stitch shoulder seams, leaving facings tree, Press seam allowances open and slip seam allowances under facings. Hand-stitch shoulder edges of facings closed Stitch Fight side seam, turning facing at armhole edge up to do so. Turn facing to inside again, (Foi pleats infront skit panel in rection fof arrows and baste. Stich darts in back shit panes, Press darts toward center Sotch center bac seam of skit, leaving vent area open Pres center seam apen and press eft vent facing to inside. Lay right vent under ‘owa left skirt panel. Above vent, press right skit panel seam allowance under tapering as you go to avo ciping, Nertowdy hem vertical undeiap edge Sitch right side seam on sit. 1m Stich skirt to dress bodice. Press seam allowances up. Pin grosgrain ribbon to bodice right side along skirt attachment seam; edgestitch in place, AY eft armhole, turn facing up again. Sew invisible zipper ta lft side opening ledges, ftom armhole; see instructions on page 66. Turn top ends of zipper tapes Lnder and pin, Stitch let side seam from lower edge t0 zipper Turn facing down and sew to zipper tapes. Sew inside facing edge to seams. At hem edge, turn back vent facing back again, Press hem allowance to inside and hanc-stiten in place. Turn facing to inside again and sew to hem allowance. At top of vent, topstitch left skirt back at an angle, as marked, catching underlap. Cut a7" (18 cm) piece of grosgrain ribbon and form to a 2° (5 cm) bow. Weap a 1%" (3 em) piece of ribbon ‘around bow center and sew ends together on underside. Trim bow ends at fan angle, Sew bow to center front neck ecige Pr eee ratte 117- = 022014- US Dress @ PATTER ANALA@LEAS ‘ADoWLoAD a Ib moecae Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 fon page 36 Length from waist: 23° (58 em) Materials Linen or linen blend, 60° (140 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 1% yds (1.35 m); sizes 20, 42, 48: VA yds (1.7 m) Fusibie interfacing Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 16" (60 cm) long, buttonhole twist oF topstitching thread in contrasting colar Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and Intreductory information. Preparation Trace pieces 1-4 and 6-7 from pattern sheet. Lengtien pieces 1 and 3 as indicated. Cut out al paper pieces. Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as Shown and pin in place. Cut the foliowing numbered pieces Linen or linen biend 1 front, cut 1 on fold 2 side front, cul 2 3 back, cut Ton fla 4 side back, cut 2 6 front facing, cut 1 on fold 7 back facing, cut 1 on fold lntrfacng: Cut from shade areas on cutting layout Fuse 1” (3 cmj-idestps to neck and armhole edge wrong ses, Also fuse small pieces of interacing to wrong side of front an back pieces, over nsel seam Construction I Stitch side fronts to frontpiece and side backs to back piece, clipping seam allowances of front and back inte corner. Press seam allowances open, On facing pieces, ress shoulder seam allowances to wrong side. Pin front ‘acing to front and hack facing to hack Stitch along armhole edges and neck edge. Tim seam allowances, clipping Several times along curves. Turn facings SPRING 2016 burdastyle.com 77project instructions to inside. Press edges. Stitch shoulder seams, leaving facings tre. Press seam allowances open and slide under facing pieces. Hand:slitch shaulder edges of facing together 1m At right armhole edge, turn facing up. Stich right side seam through facing as Continuous seam. Press seam allowances open. Im Sew invisible zipper to let side ‘opening, beginning at armhole edge; see instructions on page 60. Leave upper fends of zipper tapes loose. Fold upper lends of zipper tapes down and sew in place, Stitch let side seam from lower ledge to zipper. Sew facing to zipper tape and to right side seam, 1m Turn hem allowance to inside, bast, and press. 1 Decorative hand stitching: Use ‘outtonhole twist to hand-sew running stitches, %" (2 em) from neck and armhole edges, and 1!" (3.2 em) above hem edge; use a stitch length and spacing of Hc" (& mm). 117A- 022014- US Skirt ¢¢ PATTERN ANLABLEAS ‘ADonaLoAD a igo Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 fon page 58 Skin length: 16%" (41 em) Materials Sequin ace fabric, 40° (100 em) wide Ye ys (1m) forall sizes Lining, 54° (137 cm) wide yl (50m) for allszes Notions: grosgrain ribbon, 1° (2.5 em) wit, for waistband: sizes 36, 38: 1% yes (1.35 mj sizes 40,42: 1A yd (1.7 my size ‘M8: 2 yas (1.8 m); 1 nsible zipper, 9° (22 em) long; 1 sew-on hook-ane-bar fastener Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and intraductory information, Preparation ‘Trace pieces 7-8 from pattern sheet. Cut cut all paper pieces. 78 burdastyle.com SPRING 2014 Sequin fabrics “There ae cifferent types of sequin fabrics and care requirementscan vary gteaty The sequins may be embroidered, glued or printed on the fabri. The sewn fabric backing may also vary, from delicate organza to chiffon or strotch jersey Whatover type of sequin fabric you have chosen, remember the following: 1m Ure a fine needle and sewing thread for basting. Also use a fine sewing machine needle (size 70) with a sharp point Cutting Lay out pattern pleces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the ‘ollowing numbered pieces Sequin lace fabric 7 skirt front, eut 1 on fold B skirt back, cut 2 nina: 7 skirt front, cut 1 on fold B skirt back, cut 2 Construction I Fold pleats in skirt front in direction at arrows and baste to upper edge. Stitch Garis in skirt back and press toward center, I Stitch side seams, Press seam allowances open. 1 Sew invisible zipper to back skit ledges; see instructions on page 66. Stitch center back seam fram lower edge to zipper. I Such darts and seams of lining. Fold pleats and baste Im Place lining inside skit with wrong sides facing, Turn lining edges under and Sew t0 zipper tapes. Baste lining to Upper skirt edge: Tur under one end af grosgrain ribbon, %" (1 cfm), and press. Measure and mark: size 36°28" (715 cm); size 38: 29%" (75.5 cmy size 40: 31%" (79.5 emp; size 42: 327A" (83.5 cm) size 444. 3495" (87-5 cm) fom folded end. Lay ‘g1asgrain«ibbon on inside upper skirt edge seam allowances so that pressed- Under end extends past noht back opening edge 1° (2.5 em)and marking 1m Should sequins come off or break, hand-sew on individual sequins to replace them. Use the same sewing thread as used for the other sequins or ‘monofilament thread. 1m Press the fal ic carefully. Too hot an iron may melt the sequins or discolor them, Use moderate heat (rayon setting) and press only from the wrong side using a dry pressing cloth. Always test iron a scrap of your fabric first meets let opening edge. Edgestitch lower eage of ribbon in place. Fold ribbon out over left opening edge and pin ribbon edges together, catching seam allowance of skirt in between, Turn ribbon end under Edgestitch ribbon edges together. Sew hook-and-bar ‘astener to waistband ends, 1m Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Above skirt hem, pina lining fod, %* (1 cm) deep. Turn lining edge under and hand-sew ta hem allowance. Remave pins from fold and lay extra ining length down, 117B- 022014- US Skirt ATER AVRLABLE AS ‘ADomLOHD A, repuyass2t Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 ‘on page 49 Skirt length: 19%" (50 em) Materials Matelasé. 60° (152.5 emp % yo (8 m) for allsizes Lining, $4" (137 em) wide: % yd (.55 mi) forall sizes Interfacing Notion: ive zipper, 9° (22cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and intreduetory information.Preparation Trace pieces 7-8 from pattern sheet. Cut ‘out all paper pieces. Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces Matelassé 7 skirt front, cut 1 on fold B skit back, cut 2 2} waistband, size 36: 27°" (69 em size 38, 28% (73 cm), size 40.2015° (77 cm), Size 42: 32" (Bl cm) size 4: 33/2" (@5 cm) tong, and 173" (4.em) wide ning: 7 skirt front, cut 1 on fold skirt back, cut2 Interfacing: Fuse to waistoand wrong side Construction 1 Fold pleats in skirt front in atection of arrows and baste to upper edge. stitch ‘ars in skirt back and press toward center I Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances open. I Fold waistoand in half lengthwise, verong sides together Press upper waistband edge. Unfold waistband and stitch ane edge to upper skirt edge. Press seam allowances toward waistband Sew inuisible ziger to back opening cexiges and to outer waistband; see instructions on page 66. Stitch center back seam from vent to zipper sit. Press center back seam open and press left Vent facing to inside, Lay vent underlap of right skirt onto left skirt. Above vent, press seam allowance of right skit piece under, tapering seam allowance as you {99 to avoid clipping 1 Stitch lining side seams, darts, and center back seam, leaving 2/pper opening and vent unstitched. Lay pleats in ining ‘and baste, Stitch lining to inside waistband edge, right sides together. Fold waistuand half to inside and pull lining into skirt, wrong sides facing Work from outer side of skirt to stitch ‘along attachment seam, catching inside ‘waistband edge, Turn back ining edges Under and sew to zipper tapes. im Atyent, turn left facing back again Narrowly hem vervcal edge of underlap fn right skirt ack, Press hem allowance ta inside and sew in place by hand. Sew lett vent facing to hem edge. At top of vent, topsttch left skirt back at an angle ‘as marked, catching underlag, Hem lining 4° (2 cm) shorter than skirt. Pin lining to vent top. Turn lining lnder at vent underlap edge of right skit back and pin. Trim ather lining edge 10 %" (1 em) before hemmed underlap lege. Clip %* (1 cin) diagonally into top comer. Turn lining edge under and pin to left vent facing. At vent upper end, turn lining edge under and pin to underap. Hand-stiteh lining edges in place Cutting layouts , 54" (137 em) wide selvages | tigi \ {ogetheron ee \ inyeror ‘aright | Sie cpana Single abric | layer | nit tulle, 54° (137 em) wide selvage SS selvage Pr eee ratte 118- 022014- US Skirt #© PATTERN PATTERK TO DRAFTED AS DETALED se.00 Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 fon page 55 ‘Skirt length: 23" (58 cm) Materials Voll, 54” (137 em) wide: sizes 24, 36, 38: 2 yas (1.8 m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 2 yas (185m) Knit tulle lining), 54° (137 cm) wide size 34 Te yds (1 mi sizes 30, 38,40, 42 Va yes (1.1 mie da 1% ys (1-15 em) Drafting details see34 81 (207 em) Sze 36 84" 22cm) Size 38. 914° 032 omy seea0. 998 ase Sze 210% 57cm) seas 108° 70%) See 9078" (727 em) sxe 36:31" oon) Sie 38-3178" (81 2om se 0: 321° asen) Sige a2: 3278837 omy se 332° son) Follow dagtam to make a fulsice pattern piece or shire panel (a) 2s follows: On a large square of pattern per (upper edge ad right edge must forma nght angie) stretch a sting ror Upper eight commer ta mark rive (for Upper edge of ki (aie) ane rade (Rb for her edge. oF measure the length of te skirt down from walt feige at several points and then connect {he polos nan ven curveto atk hers edge, SPRING 2016 burdastyle.com 79PN emer Lacy Waistband interfacing Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22 em) long; T button, 4 (1.3 em); pattern paper Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information, Preparation Draft piece (a) as described above in the drafting clagram. Add the standard Ys" (15 cm) seam allowance and 1 2" (38 mm) hem allowance to the drafted pieces before cuting from fabric. 2) skirt panel, cut 2 ') waistband with 2" (2 em) underlap, size 34-26" (66 em), size 36: 27%" (70 cm); size 38: 29%" (74 cm) size 40 3014" (78 cm); size 42: 32%" (82 em) size 44: 34° (86 cm) long, and 3" (8.5, cm) wie (including seam allowances) Knit tule aycut2 Interfacing: Fuse to waistband wrong sie, Construction Stitch right side seams of skirt and skit lining, Press seam alawances open, Mm For zipper, measure and mark 2° (20 cm) down trom waist edge on lett sid skirt edges. Lay skirt ning on skirt, with ight side facing wrong side, Baste lining ta upper skit edge and ta side ‘opening edges. Sew invisible zipper in place; see instructions on page 66. Stiteh left side searns of skirt and lining separately, clipping seam allowance of skirt at end of opening to da so. Press seams open. I Stich waistband to upper skirt edge, leaving underlap extending at back ‘opening edge. Press seam allowances of attachment seam and of other long Waistband edge toward waistband. Fold waistband lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch across ends, Turn right- side out, Hand-sew inside edge in place {and sew underiap edges together. Stitch Buttonhole in front waistband end, Sew ‘button on underia. 1 Einich tower skirt edge: Prese hem allowance to fabric wrong sie. Stitching ‘rom fabric right side, sew along folded ledge with small, closely spaced zigzag (On inside, trim hem close to stitching. Tm aay seam allowance on skirt lining lower edge 80 burdastyle.com SPRING 2014 119- 022014- US Blouse PATTERN AvALABLE AS A DOWLOAD oy acUeus Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 ‘on page 57 Back length: 2244" (57 em) Materials iiss, 5" (145 er) wide: sizes 34, 36: yds (1-20 m; sizes 42, 48: 1e yas (4m Interfacing Notions: fusible bias stay tape; 2 buttons, mar (1-5.cm) Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information, Preparation Trace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Cut cout all paper patterns ‘The pleat arows on pieces 1 and 3 are marked for sae 34, For remaining sizes, remark pleat arows accordingly. Seam and hem allowances Cut hems 2" 2 em Cutting Lay out pattern pleces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Piss ont, eut 2 2 back, cut 1.07 fold 3 sleeve, cut 2 ‘front facing, cut 2 5 back facing, cut 1 on fold 2) bas strip for 2 loops, 4¥4* (12 a) long, and 114" (3 cm) wide (including seam allowances) b)2 tle hands, 13%" (35 em) long, and 1" (crm) wide (including seam allowances) 1©)2 sleeve bands, size 34: 12° (30 cm); size 36: 1214" (31 em) size. 38,1293" (22 cm); size 40: 13°" (4 cm) size 42: 134" G5 cm size 44: 1414" (37 cm) Jong, and 514" (14 em) wide Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas an cutting layout. Fuse bias stay tape to wrong side of armhole edges and front shoulder seam edges. Construction | Work from wrong side to stitch pleats in fronts, up to each arrow marking. Fold pleats in direction of arrows. Press pleat seams. Baste pleats to tront edges. Stitch hack darts and press toward center. 1 Stitch shoulder seams on blouse and fon facing. Trim seam allowances, finish together, and press toward back. 1m Fold bias stip for loops lenathwse, fight sides together. Stitch Ye" @ mim) {rom folded ede. Trim seam allowances. Turn strip right-side out and press. Cut strip into 2 equal pieces ard form loops ‘that match button size. Baste loops to ‘ront edge of blouse right front, below neck edge corner On each tle band, turn one end under Fold tie bands lengthwise, right sides together Stitch 2" (1 cm) from folded edge. Turn te bands right-side out and press, Sew turned-under ends closed Baste one tie band to let Front edge, below corner of neck edge 1m Pin facing to blouse, catching tle band {and loops. Stitch along frant and neck edges. Trim sean allowances, clipping ‘comers diagonally. Lay facing on seam allowances and understtch as tar a5 possible at comers, Turn facing to inside. Press exiges. Sew facing to shoulder 1m Stich side seams. Lay second tie band fn inside of right front, 8° (20 cm) from, hem line, and stitch to side seam allowance. 1 Gather lower sleeve edges to match sleeve bands, Stitch sleeve bands to lower sieeve edges. Press sear allowances toward sleeve bands. stitch seams of sleeves and sleeve bands, Fold sleeve bands in half wrong sides together and turn edge under aver attachment ‘seam. Stitch from outside, cose to seam, catching inner edge of sleeve band, Fold sleeve band up to meet attachment I Fold sleeve cap pleats in direction of arrows and baste, Set in sleeves, 1 Athem edge, unfold facings. Press hem allowance to inside, turn under by half wiath, and stitch, Turn facings to inside again and sew to hem edge. Lay right blouse fronton let front, matching center fronts. Mark button placement postions. Sew buttons in place, catching smal interfacing squares ‘on wrong side for reinforcement,119B- 022014-US Hooded Cape PATTERN UALABLE AS ‘DOWLOAD py/1080U6 Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/48 ‘on page 31 Back length: 2214* (82 em) Materials ‘Canvas, 60° (152.5 cm) wide size 34/36 3A yds (320 mi size 38/40, a2/44 3A yos 3.3 m) Fusibie Interfacing Notons:1 separating zippet, 26° (65 cm) (Go be shortened for sizes 34/36 and 32/40, see nstuctons on page 82}, cord AP (Gr) diameter: se 3436: 5¥ ys (48 my ‘ze 3840: 5/4 ys (Sm) Se AZIM: Se (6.2 m) yf fusible hookeandtaon tape, (ean) wide: ya (25 my wal tape, 4° (cm) wide: 4 yd (10m), 2 hammeron eyelets, Yc" (8 mm); 4 D-rings, Ye" (1.5 cm) 2 rivets; glue stick; topstitching thread Read Burda Instructions (on page 68) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information, Preparation Trace pieces 21-21 trom pattern sheet Trace pocket from piece 21 twice—once to flap attachment line and once to welt attachment line. Cut out all per pieces cutting Lay out patter pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pices Canvas 21 front, cut 2 21 pocket (arge), cut 2 21 pocket sma, cut 2 22 back, cut2 23 sleeve, cut2 20 font hood, cut 4 25 side hood, cut 2 26 back hood, et 10m foe 27 visor, cut2 28 fap, cin 23 tront facing, cut 2 30 front hem facing, cut 2 31 back hem facing, cut 2 2) 2welt strips: BY (22 em) long, and 196" (4.em) wide (including seam allowances) by) blas back neck facing strip: 10 (25 em) long, and 196" (4 em) wide {including seam allowances) 2 bias upper casing facing strips: size 34/96. 4114" (105 cm); size 38/40: 4314" (110 emy size 42/44: 45" (114 cm) long, ‘and 2/4" (6 em) wide including seam allowances) 6) 2 sleeve bands: size 34/36: 14%" (36 em); size 38/40: 1512" (39 em) size 42/44: 1610" (41 erm) Fong, and 115" ( em) wide 2 tabs, 37° (9.mm) long and 1)2 tabs 23° (7 em) long, each 1st em wide Interfacing. Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout, Also cut and fuse 196" (4 c)-wide strips 10 wiong side of pocket markings Construction 1 Hand-baste along flap and weit attachment line, pleat and placement lines, and also stitching ines for casing band and hook-and-loop tape (flap and front hood piece) to make these lines vaible on fabric right side lap Fackets'Stitch each interfaced flap 10 a nom-interfaced tia, leaving attachment edges open. Trim seam allowances, and cip corners dlagonaly Tum flaps right-side out. Press and topstitch close to edges. From hook-and: Joop tape, cut two pieces, each 14 (em) long; fuse to tap wrong side Topstiten flap trom right side. Fold welt strips in half lengthwise, wrong sides togethor, press. ‘Mark a placement line, 2° (1 em) ftom each welt attachment line. Pin welts to front, wit folded edge a placement line; open edges lie between pocket ‘markings. tih each welt in place from wrong side of tront. Fold sear ‘allowances over attachment seam and Bin in place. Pin each fla to attachment Tine ~flap points toward side edge and curved flap end points up. Stitch fap in place. Cut cape layer only betwaen lines ff stitching, stopping %" (1 cm) before tends of welt attachment seams and clipping diagonally toward each last stitch, to form small fabric trangles. Do ‘not cut into pocket pieces. Turn welts toward pocket openings and lay flaps forward, Press seam allowances of welt attachment seams forward and press Seam allowances af flap attachment toward side edge Pin smaller pocket pieces to welt seam allowances, right sides together and with pocket pieces Pr eee ratte pointing toward side edge. Work fram Inside to stich seam allowances of welts to pocket pieces, close to attachment seam. Press pocket pieces forward and pin in place. Fold small tangles at pocket opening ends to inside. Topstitch each front close to welt attachment seam and pocket ends, Mark attachment edges {or loop side of hook-and-loop tape on each front. Fuse loop side tape to each font at markings. Edgesttch all edges in place, catching packet piece, On inside, pin large pocket pieces ta seam allowances of flap attachment seams and stitch in place as described for small, pocket. Fin and stitch pocket pieces together. Finish all edges of pocket piaces. Topstiteh fronts close to flap attachment seams, 1 Pin twill tape to left front at placement lines, turning ends under. Edgestitch twill tape edges in place. Insert rivets at tape center, spaced 4° (2emyand 14" (4 em) from tape ends, 1m Center back seam, slit Press seam allowances on slanted slit edges to Inside, turn in to a width of 4" (1 cm) and baste in place. Do not topstitch yet ‘With right sides together lay backs together. Stiten center seam from upper ledge to sit mark. Finish seam allowances together and press to ane side. Working fom right side, topstitch close to seam. I Stitch each sleeve to front and back places. Finish seam allowances together and press away trom sleeves. Topstitch fonts and back close to sleeve attachment seams and again 4" (6 mm) away Upper drawstring casing: Fuse a small interfacing square Under eyelet markings Cn fronts, insert eyelets as marked Stitch facing strips together for casing, Press seam allowances open. Press facing strip edges to wong side 1° «1-2 cm) so finished strip width is 114° (3.5 em) Lay facing strip on inside of cape over marked lines, wrong sides together. Fin only lower edge in place. (Cut cord as follows: size 24/36: 3% yes (G mp; size 38/40, 42/44: 314 yas (3.2 m). Lay cord under facing strip and thread lends through eyelets to outer garment Pin remaining facing edges in place. From cape right sie, stitch along marked stitching lines, being careful not to catch Cord. Knat ends of cord. WW Zinger: For sizes 24/36 and 28/40 ‘shorten zioner, see instructions on page 82. Open zipper. Pin each zipper tape face down on right side front edge so SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 81PN emer Lacy that zipper teeth begin ust below siagonally down to edge of seam ross seams open. Press seam allowances ‘marked neck edge and lie on front piece allowance. Tim seam allowances, cp __on upper facing edges to inside. Remove boy Hc" (5 mm), with zipper tape on seam corners diagonally. Turn inside hood to basting at back sit edges and open seam allowance. Turn zipper tape upper end inside and press edges. Fin edge of inside allowances out flat again. Pin hem down at an angle, toward seam hood unit over attachment seam, facings to lower cape edges, removing allowance edge and pin, Stitch zipper in Topstitch front hood close to attachment pins at front facings and laying hem place along marked front eage. seam and close to edges. facing under them, Thm away lower 1m Hood: Stitch side hoods to back hood PIN Hood to neck edge between markings eiges of front facings, 4° (1.5 cm) ieee eam umber 31, Presssaam (seam number 5). Baste hood in place. above marked hem line Pin remaining Sones twa Hack Hod Wat Turn faced front hood edges back and __ffont facing edges in place again. Stitch lower seam allowances tote" (Sm). along hem edge then stitch remaining Tun edges of upper seam allowances ‘MI Eacing. neck edge: On front facings, front facing edge in place. lnier to v4" (1em) and baste in place, _tinishinside and upper edge seam ‘Tim seam allowances ~ including those Topstiteh back hood close to seams and allowances by pressing to inside and fon neck and front edges. Clip seam WW" (6 mm) from seats, encasing seam edgestitching in place. Lay facing on allowances diagonally cross corners. At allowances fronts, over zipper tapes and oad, Stiten back sit edges, turn facing down and Stitch hood front center seam in both «#09 Front and neck edges. press allowances of facing attachment seam open for 2" (S em). Fold seam pais: press seam allowances open, Pin Fold facing strip for back neck edge in ‘one front hood unit to side hood (seam half lengthwise, wrong side together. allowances on slit edges to inside again. umber ) and back hood, matching,” Press. Pin facing strip to back neck edge, "ESS NATOW facing edges to msde and ‘markings on front hood pieces to hood ‘over hood, so that folded edge lies on ‘turn raw edges under. Topstitch ‘4’ seams. Stitch; press seam allowances hood and ends lie on facings #4" (1 cm) {6 mm) from back slit edges. tonaré font noo (tem Bas snp ends accordingly) Lay codon he facings. Ste cog Stith sor curved edges together, Working from wrong side, stiten along 05 to seam allowances of front edges, leaving attachment edge open. Trim front edges (exactly along zipper 2%" (1 em) above facing attachment Seam allowances Turn wsor right-side stitching line) and neck edge, beginning 3a. Gut and press; fopsteh else fo edges and ending 4” (10 cn) above lower cape ‘Turn hem facing, front facings and and again 14" (6 mm) from edges. Pin edges. Do not turn facings to inside. ‘facing strip on back neck edge to inside. Visor to outer nood front edge betwean Lay fronts on back and pin side seams _—_‘Baste edges and press, Lay cord under markings (Geam number 6) and lower eeve hem facings. Baste upper edges of hem On inside front hood facing, press seam seams, up to corner at seam number 7, facings in place Blowance on attachment edge to wrong as continuous seams. Stitch; finish Topstitch YA" (6:mm) ftom front and neck Side Ly inside hood on outer hood, seam allowances togetner and press ges, a continuous ine of stitching Tight sides together in lower edges, forward “opsttch 1" (2.5 em) from hem edges as ‘beginning at seam mark {seam number Hemline drawstring casing: Stitch side ™arked on pattern, catching side facing 5), front edges, and face opening edge. seams of hem facings (eam number @), $098 2nd leaving cord fee. Stitch, at each eam mark stitching Sew upper facing edges to seam How to shorten a zipper ‘Separating zippers are available in variety of lengths in 2* (cm) increments, generally up 0 32" (81.5 crn) long. If you need a different length, purchase the next longer zipper and shorten its follows: Measure the edges ofthe garment from the beginning to the end of, oe the zipper opening. Measure the same length on the zipper, beginning atthe lower end. ‘Mark the length on the zipper tapes. Always shorten zippers from the top. aay ‘Metal zippers: Carefully pry the stoppers open above the zipper teeth. Remove the stoppers and set ther aside. Use pliers to remove the unneeded teeth to %e" (5 mm) below the ‘marking on the ipper tape, Then reattach the metal stoppers tothe zipper tapes and press firmiy to secure Plastic zippers: Use pliers to remove the stoppers atthe top ofthe zipper and also remove the unneeded teeth. To prevent the slider from slipping off, sew bars of heavy thread across the top ends of the zipper tapes at the new length. ‘Ver fine plastic zippers have a coil instead of teeth, The top ofthese zippers should ‘immed to the required lencth plus 2" (2m). The top ends can then either be caught in the seam or turned down diagonally to finish. 82 burdastyle.com sPriNa 2014allowances of back sleeve attachment ‘At back sit edge, lay cord ina loop and knot. Wm Sioove bands: Working from right side, fold pleats in lower sieeve edges in direction of arrows and baste, Stitch ‘ends of each sleeve band piece together, press seam allowances open, Fold sleeve bands in half, wiong side together and press folded edge. Unfold sleeve bands {and pin to lower sleeve edges, matching seams to side seams, Stitch, Press seam allowances toward sleeve bands. Press seam allowance on unstitchea edge of ‘each sleeve band to wrong side. Fold sleeve bands on pressed fold and pin inside half over attachment seam; taptitch in place Tabs: Fld each tab piece in half lenathwise, right sides together. Stitch ‘across one end and both long edges 7A" (1.5 crm) from fold, Trim seam allowances, clipping corners diagonally Turn tabs right-side out and press. Topstiten close to tab edges. Fold seamed ‘end of each short tab through 2 O-rings, ‘and stiteh in place. Pin open tab ends each to pleats on sieeve bands so that ‘open edges point toward each other and tab pieces with rings point toward back sleeve attachment seams, Stich ends of tabs in place, Tim seam allowances to 3" (5 mm) wide. Lay tabs over attachment seams and stitch again, Yet (6 mm) from attachment edges, Ht Hook-and-loop tape, tront hood ‘edges: From hook-and-loop tape, cit 3 pieces, each 2” (5 em) long, Fuse hook halves of tape to inside of right hood lecige, next to one another, over marked stitching lines. Fuse loon halves of tape 10 outside of let fastening edge, In each ‘ase, lopsttch hood from other side of hood, a marked. 120- : 022014-US | Mini-Skirt #6 PATTERN AVAILABLE AS Don oaD a bp. b80.00 Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 0, 42 fon page 27 Start length: 17%" (45 cm) Upper edge sits 14° (2 cm) below waist Materials Cottoninen blend, 60° (152.5 cm) Wide: sizes 34, 36: 1% yds (1.20 m) sizes 38, 40, 42: 1% yds (1.25 m) Lining, 54* (137 cm) wide: % yd (3 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 9* (22 em) long) Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and wtraductory informa’ Preparation “Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Cut cut all paper pieces, cutting Lay out patter pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces 1 front yoke, cut 2 on fold 2 back yoke, cut 2 on fole 4 upper flounce, cut 2 on fold 5 middle fiounce, cut 2 on fold 6 lower flounce, cut 2 on fold Ling: 3 skirt panel, cut 2 on fold interfacing Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout, Interface outer yokes Construction 1 Stitch right side seam of yoke units stitching seam af inside yoke ae mierar Image of outer yoke. Stitch right side seams of upper flounce and skit ining pane! separately, Press seam allowances open. 1 Lay upper flounce on sti lining, with vwirong side facing eight side, Baste to left side opening edges and upper edge. Stitch yoke to upper edge of skirt panel Press seam allowances toward yoe. Pr eee ratte Fabrics made of cotton, linen and. ‘yon may shrink when laundered forthe frst time. To avoid shrinkage ‘of the finished garment, these fabrics should be washed before ‘cutting, Use the temperature seting you plan to use forthe finished ‘garment. To test for shrinkage of your fabric, cut a rectangular piece and finish the edges. Measure it ‘exactly, Wash it, and compate the Sze after washing withthe ogra 1 Sew invisible zipper to left opening edges; see instructions on page 66. Clip flounce seam allowances at lower end of ‘opening, Stitch lower flounce and skirt lining let side seams separately I Stitch middle and lower flounce side seams separately. Stith lower flaunce to lower edge of skirt lining. Press seam allowances up. Stitch middle flounce to skirt lining, along attachment line, IN Tim seam allowances on flounce hem ledges to 2" (5 mm), finish edges, press to wrong side, and stitch Wm Face upper skirt edge: Right sides together, lay inside yoke on skirt. Pin to Upper skirt edge, AL zipper opening, turn yoke back Yc" (5 mm) before opening ledge, and pin to upper edge. Turn sktt ‘pening edge seam allowances to outside and pin to upper skirt edge, over yoke. Stitch along upper skirt edge. Turn seam allowances to inside, Sew yoke 10 Zipper tape edges. Lay inside yores fat lover attachment seam (not turned in) and pin. Topstiteh yoke close to attachment seam, SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 83project instructions 120A, B- 022014- US Blouse ¢# PATTERUANALABLEAS A pownoaD a poy esq patysexm Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 View A on page 58, view B on page 49 Back length: 20° (50 cm) ‘Three-quarter sleeves, 19° (48 em) long Materials View A: Youle, 54° (137 crn) wide: sizes 36, 38, 440, 42: 1 yds (1.3 my) size 4a: 1% yds (1.45 mm) View. Stretch poplin, 54° (137 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40, 42: 114 yds (1.3 mj; size 44 Ti yes (1.45 m) Interfacing. Notion: 1 button, Sem) Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation “Hace pieces 21-25 fom pattern shee. Trace front facing with coll from piece 2138 2 separate patten piece. Cut out al paper pices. ‘Seam and hem allowances Edges and hem, "(1.5 em) Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as shown an pin in lace. Cut the following numbered pieces: Voile or stetch pootin 21 Front with Integrated collar, cut 2 21 front facing with Integrated collar, cut 2 22 back, cut 1 on fold 2B sleeve, cut 2 Interfacing’ Cut from shaded area on pattern layout Construction Stitch darts in back and press toward center back. 1 Stitch shoulder seams. Clip seam allowances of fronts into each carner ‘between shoulder and coll. Finish seam 84 burdastyle.com sPriNa 2014 allowances together and press toward back. Stitch center back seam of Integrated collar pieces. Press seam allowances open. Stitch collar 10 back heck edge, from corner ta corner. Press seam allowances toward collar. I Suich side seams. Press tem allowance to inside, turn aw edge under, and stich in pace On integrated collar pieces of front ‘facings, stitch center back seam. Clip seam allowance on inside edge, nto fach corner between facing and collar. Fish front seam allowances an inside ‘acing edges and press to inside. With right sides together, stitch facing to front and colar edges. Tim seam allowances. Turn facing to inside. Turn collar right- side out. Turn inside collar edge under and baste over attachment seam, Work ‘rom garment outside to stitch along seamline. Below facing, turn front edge seam allowances to inside, turn edges Under, and stitch. Stitch lower facing ends to tromts, View A only: On wrong side of each sleeve, ly elastic cord along marked! ine Zigzag over elastic, beginning and ending execly at marked hem line. The stitch should be just wide enough to miss caiching elastic, otherwise it cannot be pulled to shir fabric I Soitch sleeve seams, Turn sleeve hems to inside, turn edges under, and stitch I Set in sleeves. 1H Work buttonhale in right frant and sew button on left font. 121- 022014- US Skirt eee PATTERN AYALIOLE ‘sear siceT Burda sizes 36, 38, 40,42, 44 fon page 36 Skirt length: 2514" (64 em) (ineluding walstband) Waistband edge is" (2 cr) below waist Materials wil, 60" (152.5 em) = Wye (1.2 m) for allsies Fusible intertacing Notion: 1 invisible 2ip, 9° (22 em) Green pattern line, sheets C1-C2 Pattern pieces 21 to 25 Size 36 Cutting layout Twill 160" (152.5 em) wide Fold selvages Cut from a double layer of fbr right Sides together Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation “ace pieces 21-25 trom pattern she. “Trace packet from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece, Cut out all paper peces Cutting Lay out patter pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: wl: 21 front skirt panel, cut 221 pocket, cut 2 22 side hip yoke with integrated pocket, cut 2 23 back skit panel, cut 2 24 front waistband, cut 2 on fold 25 back waistband, cut 4 2) 2 welt strips, 6* (15 cm) long, and 176" (4 cm) wide (inclucing seam | allowances) ) 4 pocket pieces, 6” (15 em) wide, and 40° (12 cm) long (including seam allowances) © G belt carriers, a total of 22° (54 em) tong, and 154" (2 cm) wide (including seam allowances) Interfacing Cut from shaded areas on pattern layout. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of outer ‘waistband pieces. Also fuse 1%" (4 cm) wide strips of interfacing to wrong side ‘of back skirt panels, over pocket markings. Construction 1 Stitch center front seam, Press seam allowances toward right skirt front. Topstiteh "(6 mm) trom seam: Hip yoke pockets stitch pocket pieces te pocket opening edges on front skirt panel, right sides together. Turn to inside. Topstiteh &" (6 mn) from pocket ‘opening edges. Pin pocket opening ‘eiges to side hip yokes, at placement lines. Stitch inside edges of pocket pieces together. Baste pockets to skirt front wrong side 1m Sew single welt pockets on back skirt panels: Mark a placement line for each ‘weit, 24° (T em) trom welt attachment lin (finished wiath of welt). Fold welt string lengthwise, wrong sides together, ‘and press, Baste each folded weit strip ‘over welt attachment line sa that folded ‘edge meets placement line. Stitch welt to ‘welt attachment line. Stitch one pocket piece to pocket piece attachment line Siash between lines of stitching and clip diagonally toward each las stitch; do not clip welt or packet piece. Turn welt into pocket opening and pull pocket piece to inside. stitch remaining pocket piece to weit attachment seam allowances, Topstiteh skirt back close to welt attachment seam. Turn small fabric triangles at packet opening ends to inside and stitch to welt and pocket piece, from seam end to seam end, Tim pocket pieces evenly and stitch together. Topsiteh skirt back close ta pocket ends and pocket attachment sear. Stich side seams, Stitch side seams fn inside and outside waistband units separately. Press seam allowances open. 1m Fold belt cartier stip lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch ¥" (1 em) from folded edge, Turn nght side out and press, Topititch clase to edges. Cut strip Into 6 equal length pieces. Baste belt Caters to upper skirt edge, with one belt carrier 24" (7 cm) before each side ‘seam in front and two belt cariers on teach side of center back, spaced 3" (@ Cam) andl 434" (12 em) from center back. fm Stitch outer watstband Unit to uppet skirt edge Press seam aliowences toward waist. im Sew invisible zipper to outer waistband to back opening edges, see instructions on page 66. Stitch center back seam from lower edge to Zipper Lay inner waistband an outer waistband, right sides together. At zipper ‘opening, turn inside waistband eages back fs" (5 mm) before opening edges, and pin to upper skirt edges. Turn sear allowances on skirt opening edges to ‘outside and pin to upper edge, over inside waistband pieces, Stitch along Lpner waistband edge, Turn seam allowances on opening edges to inside and turn waistband right side out. Lay inside waistband flat over atachment seam and pin in place. Sew to zipper taps. Topstitch waistband close to attachment seam and close to upper ecige Stich across belt carriers, 24° (1 em) below waistband attachment seam, Turn bolt carers up, turn ends under, and stitch to upper waistband edge 1 Press hem allowance to inside and baste. Topstitch 14° (3.7 em) and 16" (G cm) from nem edge. 122. 022014- US Skirt ¢ PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWLOAD at: rotyrigmdae Burda sizes 17, 18, 19, 20,21 fon page 56 Skirt length: 23° (58 em) Materials Broadeloth, 45° (114 em) wide: 1% yds (12 m) for all sizes Knit lining fabric, 54° (137 em) wide sizes 17, 18: 174 yds (1.10 m); sizes 19, 20, 21: Va yds (1.201) Interfacing Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 16" (40 cin) long, twill tape, Ye (2 cm) wide:sies 17, 18, 19: eye (8 my sizes 20, 21: 1 ya 9 mi, bias tape, 156° cr) wide: sies 17, 18,19: %yd (8 mszes 20, 21° 1 yd (91) organza ribbon with sequins and beads, 1" (2.5 cm) wide: size 17: 174 yds (16 em; size 18: 174 yds (1.70 mn); size 19: 2 yds (1.8 mi size 20: 2% ys (19 ey size 21: 2% yds (2m); 12 large and 3 smal sewron fabric flowers, ound Sea-on crystals, 4" (1.5 em) diameter: size 17: 20; sae 18: 21; size 19:22; size 20: 24; size 21: 25; 6 oval stones, 3 (1.5 em) long; (optiona seed beads Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and intreduetory information. Preparation Trace pieces 2-5 fom pattern sheet. Lengthen piece 5 as indicated and join fend points. Measure down from the center of straight edge, then draw the curved hem edge: sizes 17 and 18: 314" (em); sizes 19 and 20: 334" (85 emy size 21: 314° (9.cm).. Cut out all paper pisces. Seam and hem allowances Forsizes 17, 18 19, cut hem allowance 1" (Gem, for sles 20 and 21,4" (1 Sen), Cut ining wath" (1.5 cn) wide hem allowances Cutting Broadcloth: 3 front watstband, cut 2 on fold A back waistband, cut 4 5 skirt panel, cut 1 on fold SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 85PN emer Lacy Unina: skirt panel, cut 1 on fold Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout, Construction 1H Fold bas tape in haf lengthwise and press. Baste folded bias tape to upper Skit edge so that folded edge lies on {garment piece, #a" (5 mm) past marked Seamiline. Stitch waistband side seams Such outer waistband to upper skirt edge. Press seam allowances toward waistband 1& Sew invisible zipper to edges of outer Waistband and back opening edges, see Instructions on page 66. Zipper teeth begin at marked upper waistband edge. Stitch center back seam from lower edge to zipper. Tim away zipper %" (2 cm) below opening and bind with a ining scrap. 1 Stitch center back skit lining seam, leaving opening for zipper slightly longer than skirt opening, Stiteh lining 10 lower ege of inside waistband, right sides together. Press seam allowances toward waistband, Lay inside walstband/skt lining over attached outer waistband. At zipper ‘opening, tur inside waistband back, ict (S mm) before opening edge, and pin to Upper edge. On outer waistband, turn ‘opening allowances to outside and pin to Upper edge, over inside waistband, Stitch along upper waistoand edge. Turn inside Waistbandining to inside and sew to ipper tapes. Working from the right side, stitch along waistband sear, Catching inside waistoand edge 1 Press hem allowance to inside andl hand-stitch in place, Hem lining (em) sharter than skirt Baste organza ribbon under both edges of twill tape so that beads lie as {far as possible on twill tape. Lay remainder of organza ribbon aside ~ beads and sequins will be removed from it later On the basted:-together nian, ‘measure length of waistband plus %” (1.5 cm) allowance at both ends. Remove beads and sequins from seam allowances land anchor threads, Turn seam allowances to wrong side. Pin ribbons to skit waistband, with lower organza ribbon at waistband attachment seam ‘and with turned-underrinbon ends ‘meeting back sit edges. Hand-sew twill tape edges in place, catching organza ribbons. Sew round gem stones to twill tape, spaced 1%" (3 cm) apart Pace 86 burdastyle.com sPriNa 2014 flowers on skirt as ilustrated and sew in place. Sew oval gems betaeen the flowers. Remove beads and sequins from remainder of organza ribbon and sew to skirt, tween flowers. Optional: Sew Sequins in place with seed beads. 122.1- 022014- US Blouse © PATTERN AVALABLE AS DOWLOAD at gy" Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 fon page 34 Back length 26° (65 em) Materials Cape de Chine, 54° (137 em) wide VA yds (17 my forall sizes Interfacing, Notions: 2 small round buttons Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation Trace pieces 1-4 from pattern sheet. Cut ‘ut all paper pisces cutting Lay out patter pieces on faded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces 1 front with integrated sleeve, cut 1 on tole 2 back with integrate sieve, cut 1 on tole 3 front yoke, cut 2on fla 4 back yoke, cut tntertacing Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout Intertace outer yokes. Construction On front, hand-baste along marked fuck fold lines to make them visible on right side of fabric. Fold front on frst ‘tuck line, wrong sides together. Press suck and topstiteh as marked on pattern, Pross and topstitch remaining tucks in sequence. Press tucks from sides toward center front. On each sleeve area stitch upper seam. Trim seam allowances to 1" (6mm), finish edges together, and press toward back. Gather neck edge betiveen dots on front to: size 36: SY" (13.5 cm size 38: 5%" (13.8 em); size 40: 514" (14 cm sizes 42, Ad: 5%" (14.5 em); on sieeve to 31 (B am), and on back to 4* (10 em). 1 Stich shoulder seams on outside and Inside yokes. Press seam allowances ‘open. Stitch inside and outside yokes together along back and neck edges ‘Tim seam allowances, clipping carers diagonally. Turn yoke right-side out. Press edges. Baste open yoke edges together. Stitch euttonholes in right back yoke as marked. Lay right back yoke on left back yoke, matching center backs, and baste lower edges togethor. Stitch yoke to gathered neckline opening. Tim seam allowances to 4" (6 mm), finish together ‘and press toward yoke, 1m Stich side seams beginning above sit ‘mark, then continue stitching to sieeve edges. Press hem allowance to inside, turn edge under by half width, and stitch in place. Tur sit allowances to inside and turn edges under. Stitch 4" (6 mm) from silt edges and across top. Above sil finish seam allowance edges together and press toward back. Turn sleeve hem allowances to wrong side and stiteh in place 1 Sew buttons at back neck yoke123- 022014- US Skirt #6 area WALAOLE On sear SET Burda sizes 34, 36, 38,40, 42, ‘on page 28 Skirt length: 42%" (107 em) Upper skirt edge sits 24" (2 cm) below waist Materials Vile in tree different prints, $4" (137.5 em) wide fabric punt { (yoke and top ter: sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: A ya (7 m); size 42: Va yds (1.05 m) fabric aint 2 (middle ter: sizes 34, 36 Ye ya (7 mn) size 38, 40, 42: 1% yds 1.05 my fabri print 3 (bottom ter): 198 yds am Interfacing Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 9* (22 cr) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information, Preparation Trace pleces 1-2 trom pattern sheet. Cut ‘out all paper pieces. Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the Tollowing pieces Fabric orint 1 Vfront yoke, cut 2on fold 2 back yoke, cut 2 on fold 2) top ter, sips to make the following total length: sizes 34, 36: 60%" (1-54 mp; sizes 38, 40: 67° (1.7 mm); size 42; 72'4° (1.84 m) wide, and 12% {@2 cm) long Fabric print 2 b) middle tie, strips to make the following total length: size 34, 36: 106%" (2.70 my); sizes 38, 40.118" Gm size 42: 130%" (2.3 m) wide, anc 123%" (22 cm) tong, Fabric print 3 © bottom ter, strips to make the following total length: size 24, 36: 16114" (2.1 m); sizes 38, 20: 177%" (45 my size 40: 193° (4.9 m) wide, and 12%" (32 cm) tong Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on Pr eee ratte - Cutting layouts 7 rm Voile, 54" (137.5 cm) wide i ! Fabric print 1 Sizes 34~ 40 size 42 Fale Salvage o |e | ros Black pattern ne, sheets At I] > | Pattern pieces t and 2 Sire 3h eee aes sie 36 —--——— | site 38 —— — Fold Sslege size 40 s size 42 on sizes 38-42 mG on cating layout. Interface outer yokes, Construction eyed. Stitch right side seam of yoke uit, stiching seam of inside yoke as miror image of euter yoke, Site pieces for top skirt ter tagetner to fxm one long ge Sevage piece. Press seam allowances open, I Gather top tier and stitch to yoke Fabric print 3 Press seam allowances toward yoke Sizes 34-42 Topsiten yoke close to attachment seam, sehage 1 Sew insole zioper to ett opening fdges ee instructions on page 6B. Sitch left sie seam trom lower edge to zipper i Face upper skirt edge: Right sides together, ay inside yoke on skit. Pin to effec] oper skirt edge. At zipper opening, urn yoke back Yc" ( mm) betore opening e2ige, and pinto upper edge. Turn skit opening edge seam allowances to Outside ond pin to upper skit edge, over Sehage Ror alowances tome. Senyoteto” ali acssbow ate cating hs fayout—right sds together an double Zipper tape ees. Lay inside yokes flat ‘ver attachment seam (not turned in) and pin. Topstiteh yoke close to ‘attachment seam 1m Stich seams of middle and bottom tiers. Gather upper edge of middle tier land stitch to lower edge of top tiet ‘Gather bottom tier and stitch to lower edge of middle tier. Press seam allowances up. Topstitch cose to seams 1m Trim hem allowance on lower edge to er (5 mm) and finish edge; press to Inside and stich, layer right side up on single ayer. SPRING 2016 burdastyle.com 87PN emer Lacy 123.1- = 022014- US Jacket 9 | PATTEM ANABLEAS oomania a b yeratyiecreny Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 fon page 54 Back length: 21%" (55 em) (including hem band) Materials Voile, $4° (137.5 cn} sizes 26, 28 1M yas (1.30 my; sizes 40, 42, 48: 1% yds (1.35 m) ‘Tubular tb tnt, 30° 76 cr) wide (double Sizes 36, 38, 40,42; Yoyo (35 m); sie A ya ¢50m) Notion: 1 lightweight separating zipper, 22° (55 cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 68) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation “race pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. ut out al paper pices. ‘Seam and hem allowances Cut front edges: 3" (2 em); hem band, sleeve bands, and respective attachment edges: 24° (1 cr), cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in lace, Cut the Tollowing numbered pieces: voile: 21 front, cut 2 22 back, cut 1 on fold 23 sleeve front, cut 2 2A sleeve back, cut 2 a) bias strip far neck edge, size 36: 2514 (G4 cm); size 38: 2514" (65 cn) sze 40. 26° (66 cm); size 42: 26%" (6B cm); size 44: 27%" (69 cm) long, and 114" (3 cm) wide (inluding seam allowances) ib ent: 2 front hem bands, size 36: 77s" (19 cm); size 38: 7A" (20 em) size 40: BA" (21 crn, size 42: 8%" (22 cm size 44: 9° (23cm) long, and 1 back hem ‘band, size 36: 15° (38 cm) size 38 1514" (40 cm size 40: 16%" (42 cm) size 42-17%" (A er); size 4a: 1844" (45 cin) long, and each 4%" (12 crm) wide © 2steeve bands, size 36: 74" (19a; size 88 burdastyle.com sPriNa 2014 238: 8° (20 emi size a0: BHA" (21 cm size 42. 814" 22 am; size 44 914" 23 an) long. and 424" (12 em) wide, and 44 (12 cn) wie 1 neck band, size 36: 2514" (64 cm): size 38: 2574" 65 cm); see 40: 26" (66 cm); size 442 26%" (68 cm), size 48: 27%" (69 em) Jong, and 3" (15 em) wide (including seam allowances) Construction I Stitch side seams. Finish seam allowances together and press toward back. Im Suitch underarm sleeve seams, Stitch sleeves to fronts and back. Press seam allowances toward sleeves, up 10 beginning of underarm curve Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams, Neck edge: Baste band to neck edge 50 that it les on garment piece, Ye" (Sm) past marked seam line. Fold bias neck strip lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. in folded bias strip te neck edge, aver band, so that folded edge of stip lies on garment piece, %" (61mm) past seamline. Stitch along marked neck edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias stip to inside and turn band up. Tepstiteh ic" (5 mm) trom neck edge I Suich side seams of hem band. Press seam allowances open. Fold hem band in half lengthwise, wrong sides together Stitch hem band edges to lower edge of ‘ons and back, svetching to mach, Turn seam allowances toward jacket. For sizes 36 — 40, shorten zioper to match front jacket finished length: See instructions an page 82, I Press front seam allowances to inside, turn edges under leaving Ye" (1 crn) wide; baste. Baste zipper under edges so that teeth are covered. Fald upper ends of zipper tapes over seam allowance. ‘Topstteh 14" (6 mm) from front edaes, Sleeve bands: stitch ends of each sleeve band together Fold sieeve bands In half, wrong sides together. Stitch folded band to lower sieeve edges, stretching sleeve bands to fit. Sleeve band seam should align with underarm sleeve seam. Turn seam allowances rowaid sleeve, 124- es 022014- US Tunic #@ FATTERN LADLE on sen seer Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 ‘on page 53 Back length: 28° (70 cm) Materials Chalis, 54" (137 cm) wide: 2% yds (2.05 rm) for all sizes Notion: Pre-folded bias tape, "(2 crm) Wide: size 36: 1% yo (1.1 mj sizes 38,40, 482: 1% yb (1.2 mize 44 1Y2 ye (1.25 Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) {for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation ‘race pieces 21-24 trom pattern shet Cut out all paper pieces. Cutting Lay out patlern pieces on folied fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: 21 front, cut 1 on fold 22 back, cut 1 on fold 23 sleeve front, cut 2 2A sleeve back, cut 2 4) bias hem band, 2 pieces, each: size 36: 21" (53 em size 38.21%" (85 cm size 0: 2218" (57 cm) sie 42: 2394" (59 cn, size 44:24" (61 cm) long, and 54" (14 em) wwige 1) 2 bias sieeve bands: size 36: 1234" (32 cm); sizes 38,40; 13° (33 em) size 42: 130" (34 cm), size A: 1350 G45 am) long, and 4%" (12-emy wide «bias neck band: size 36: 2314" (89 cm); size 38; 2314" (60 cm size 40: 2A" (61 cm); size 42: 243" (63 em): size 444; 2514" (64 cm) long, and 3/4" (B cm) wie Construction 1 Stitch side seams. Finish seam allowances together and press toward back. I Stitch underarm sleeve seams, stitch sleeves fa tunic front and back and press seam allowances toward sleeves, up to Deginning of underarm curve I Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams,Blue pattern line, sheets B1-B2 Pattern pieces 21 to 24 Size 36 Size 38 —— —— ——_ Size 40 — Cutting layout Challis, 54" (137 em) wide a LA) secrete cohirs oe eu ee 1 Stitch neck band ends together. Fold neck band in half, wrong sides together. Stitch neck band edges to tunic neck fexige, matching seam ta shoulder seam. Finish seam allowances tagether and press toward tunic, Topstich front, sleeves, and back 1" (6mm) from sleeve band attachment seam: For piping at hem band and sieeve bands, cut the pre-folded bias tape lengthwise along the center. Use one piece for the hem band. From the remainder, cut two pieces, forthe sleeve bands. 1 Hom band: Baste bias tape to lower edge of tunic front and tack so that stip folded edge lies on garment piece, “" (3 mm) from seamline, Turn in ends of bias tape at one side seam Stitch side seams of hem band. Fold hem ban in half, wrong sides together. Stitch hem bbanci edges to front and back lower edge, catching bias tape in seam, Press ‘seam allowances toward tunic I Baste bias tape to lower sieeve eae, turning in ends at underarm seam. Sitch seams of sleeve bands. Fold sleeve bands In half, wrong sides together. Stiten sleeve band edges 10 lower sieeve edges, ‘matching sleeve band seams to underarm sleeve seams, Press seam allowances toward sleeves, 125. 022014-US Maxi Dress eee PATER AVALABLE AS ADO#NLOAD patna Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 fon page 49 Length from waist: 43° (109 cr) Materials Voile, 54° (137 cm) wide: 4 yds (3.6 m) Tor all sizes ning, 60° (152 cm) wide: 2% yds (23m) {or al izes Interfacing [Nations elastic thread for shiring. 6 small fabric-covered buttons Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation Trace pieces 21-24 from patern sheet. Lengthen piece 23 as indicated. Cut out al paper pieces. The attachment ines on pieces 21 and 22 are marked for size 36. For sizes 38-44, mark lines same distance {rom edges as fr size 36. The markings for loops on piece 21 ate fr size 36. For sizes 38-44, move top merking up according to neck point. The bottom ‘marking is same for al sizes, space other 2 oops evenly betwen Seam and hem allowances Long bare edges, 3° (1c) hem 3" (15. Pr eee ratte Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces voile 21 front, cut 4 22 back, cut 2 on fold 23 skirt panel, cut 2 on fold 24 neck band, cut 2 2) 2 armhole bands, size 26: 32° (a cm); size 38: 331" (85 cm) size 40 34M" (BT em); size 42: 34" (88 cm); size 4d: 2514" (90 cm) long, and 114" (em) wide )2 te bands, 2814" (72 cm) long, anc 5A" (14 em) wide ) bias strip for 6 loops, 14%" (36 em) long, and 2 cm (in) wide (including seam allowances) Lining 22 skirt panel, cut 2 on fold Interfacing, Cut from shaded areas an cutting layout Interfacing should extend past attachment line by " (2 cm). Construction Stich shoulder seams of dress bodices. Lay nner and outer bodices right sides together. Stitch along neck and armhole edges. Tim seam allowances. Turn right-side out and press ledges. Baste together along side and lower edges. 1 Hand-baste along attachment lines for bands, %" (2 cm) from neck and armhole ledges, to make these lines visible on bodice right side. Fold neck band on fold line, wrong sides together, and press. Fold armhole bands in half, wrong side together and press. Unfold bands again I Gather inside haif of each band close t0_pressed fold Stitch a ine of machine basting (longest stitch seting) next to edge and leave ends of Uiead hanging Do not yet pull gathering threads. Lay neck bands right sides together ana stitch center back seam, Fold bands again, wrong sides together, opening Center seam allowances flat, Gather ‘pen long edges of ands tagether to match corresponding attachment ines. Stitch long band edges along attachment lines, with outer side facing down — folded edge lies towars garment. Turn bands toward neck and armhole edges. Side folded edges together along ‘gathering threads to length of each ledge. Sew fold edges in piace loosely by hana SPRING 2016 burdastyle.com 89PN emer Lacy 1 Loops and center front seam: Fold bias loop strip lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch Me" ( mm) from folded ledge. Turn right-side out. Do not press fabric tube fat. Cut fabric tube into 24" (6 cm-iong pieces and form loops. Pin loons to right front edge as marked Stitch center front seam Lay loops toward left front and press seam allowances toward right front, 1 Use tailor’schale to marie shitring lines on inside of front and back, Lay elastic along each chalk line and stitch lover ftusing 4 narrow zigzag—stitch should be just wide enough to not catch the elastic, otherwise i cannot be pulled. Pull elastic to sher the fabric to a wieth Of: size 36: 1214" (31 cm) size 38: 13° (G1 cm); size 40: 13%" (35 cm size 42: 14Vs" (87 em see 4a: 1515" (29 em) Knot ends af elastic securely. Im Fold tie bands lengthwise, right sides together. Trim one end of each at an angle. Sttch along fong edges and Angled ends. Trim seam allowances. Turn tie bands right-side out and press. Baste bands to side seam edges of front, below seam mark, with seam allowance extending at lower edge. I Stitch bosice side seams. Press seam allowances toward back. Stitch side seams on skirt and skirt lining separately. Pull lining into skirt, \arong sides together, baste upper edges together, Gather upper skirt edge between dots as follows: font to: size 36: 1614" (42 om); size 38: 17%" (45 cam; size 2: 19 (28 cm); size 42 20M" (51 cm); size 4d. 2114" (54 em). Gather pack to: size 36: 1614" (42 cm); size 38: 171" (44 cm) size 40; 18% (46 cr); size 42: 19° (4B cm); size 44 19%" (50 em). stiten skirt to bodice, stretching elastic shiring Wm Flaih bem edge: Press hem allowance to.wrong side. Working trom right side, stiten along fold edge with closely spaced zigzag stitching, On inside, trim hem allowance close to stitching. Hern Hining %" (2 em) shorter than des. Im Sew buttons for loops to eft front. 90 burdastyle.com SPRING 2014 126- 022014- US Dress #6 PATTERN Aaa. AS “ADOWMLOAD a igo rating Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 fon page 48 Leng from waist: 21 (63 em) including rule Materials Embroidered lace, 54” (137 cm) wie: 2A yds. (2 m) forall sizes Notion: pre-olded bias tape, 's* (12 mm) wide: % yal(.75 m) Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information, Preparation Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet Lengthen pieces 21 and 22 as indicated Cut out all paper pices Seam and hem allowances Edges %" (1.5 cm); rule seams 14" (1m), Cut rutfle long edges without seam allowances, slong pattern of fabric 35 edges are unfinished cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as showin and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pices Embroidered lace 21 front eut 1 on fold 22 back, cut 1m fold 23 sleve, cut 2 2)2 hems 50%" 128 on) ong, and 6" (15 em) wide 1) 2 sleeve ruts, 317° (80 em) on, and 3%" (8 em) wide Construction I Such bust darts and press downward Stitch side seams, shoulder seams, and sleeve seams. Tim seam allowances ta %" (6 mm) wide, Frsh together, and press toward back. 1 Trim aviay seam allowance on neck edge. Cut a piece of pre-folded bias ‘ape, size 36: 2614" (68 cm size 38: 27%" (0 cm) sie 40: 2816" (72 em}; Size a2: 28%" (73 cm) size dd 2934" (75 cm) long. Fold bies tape in halt lengthaise and press. Unfold bias tape Stitch ends together, 6° (1 em) from ediges. Press seam allowances open ‘Work from inside to stitch bias tape to neck edge, stitching %* (6 mn) from edge, along oressed fold. Tun bias tape ‘over neck edge and baste. Working from right side, edgestiteh binding in place. Stitch side seams of hem and sleeve ruffles, Press seam allowances open, Mark a line #4" (15 cm) from upper edge ‘ofeach ruftle. Gather tufts along marking and %4" (3 mm) above, to match length of lower edges of dress and sleeves, Stitch hem ruffle to lower dress edge, along gathering line, with wrong side facing right side and seam allowances matching. Sich sleeve ruffles 1 lower sleeve edges in same manner. Set in sleeves. Tim seam allowances 10 4° (6 mm) wide, finish edges, and press toward sleeve. Do not press allowances flat along underarm curves. 127-022014- i US Stretch j dross PATTERN A¥ALABLE AS ‘A DOWMLOAD A Se Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 ‘on page 52 Length from center back waist: 19%" (50cm) Sleeves: 4° (9 cm) longer than normal Materials ‘SMueich ace, 60° (1524 em): size 34. Vh yds (1.75 m); sizes 36, 38, 40, 42: 2 yds (1.8 m) ‘Stuich chiffon, 54° (137 cm): sizes 34, 36, 238: 1% yl (1.55 m); sizes 40,42: 1 ys 7m Notion: bias stay tape Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation Trace places 21-24 trom pattern sheet. For piece 23, fold the tracing paper and lay the fold edge on the marked "fabric fold” line. Trace pattern piece, turn paper aver, and transfer lines to back side. Unfold the paper. Note aifferent lines for right and left back half. Cut out all paper piecesCutting Lay out pattern pieces on single-layer fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces stretch lace 21 right front, cut 1 2 lett front, cut 1 23 back, cut 1 on fald 2A sleeve, cut 2 ‘Stretch chitfon 21 right front, cut 1 22 left front, cut 1 23 back, cut 1 on fold 2) bias stip for neck edge, size 34: 291" (75 cm); size 36: 3008" (77 cm); size 28: 30¥4" (78 cm); size 40: 31%" (80 cm) Size 42: 3212" (82 cr) long, and 1" @ cm) wide (including seam allowances) b) bias backing strip, size 34: 2734" (JO.cm), size 36: 28° (71 cm), size 38: 2814" (72 cm); size 40: 2874" (73 cm), Size 42: 2914" (74 em) long, and 2 (2 cm) wide (including seam allowances) Bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong sie of armhole eiges on titfon pieces Construction 1m Baste front and back lace pieces to corresponding chiffon pieces, with wrong sides facing right sides |W Stitch back darts and press toward center Gather front pieces along section seam edges between dots to: size 34 26%" (68 cm) size 36: 2714" (69 cm), ‘ize 38: 27%" (70 cm size 40: 28° (V1 cm); size 42: 28%" (73 cm) Lay backing stnp under one gathered edge {and pin. Sich front section seam, beginning at upper edge, exacly at seam mark, Press seam allowances open. Stitch side seams and shoulder seams. Fold neck bias strip lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Pin folded bias Strip to neck edge right side with folded stip eige on garment, 14" (6 men) past seamne. Stitch strip to neck edge, beginning at upper end of section seam ‘and turning seam allowance towacd neck ‘edge again, Tim seam allowances, Turn Strip to inside and turn ends under Hand- Stitch inside edge of bas strip in place. I Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stiteh in place W Set in sleeves, 1m Press nem allowance to inside and hand-sttch in place. 128A, C- 022014- Us Top ee arn 2ALABLE ss hoomnuon a iy 8B fare 2 AVAL oer set Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 View A on page 27, view Con page 29 Back lanath: A, 17° (83 em), C, 26" (65cm) Sweater knit, 60° (152.5 cm) wide: 7 yo (7m) torall sees (Chiffon: 22” x 32° (55 x 80 em) Views Jersey, 60° (152.5 cm) wide: 1% yds (my forall sizes Notion: twin needle Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation ‘ace pieces 1-2 fram pattern sheet. Follow lines and deta for view & OR view C, Cut out all paper pieces, Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place, Cut the following numbered pieces for the view you're making View A Sweater knit: front, cut 1 on fold 2 back, cut 1 0n fole Chiffon bias strip for back neck edge, size 34 12%" (32 cm) size 36: 13° (33 cm, size 38: 1374" (34 cm); size 40: 1314" (25 cm); size 42: 144" (6 cm) size 44 14%" (37 cm) long, and 1%" (4 cm) wide (including seam allowances) 1 2 bias strips for armholes, size 34: 20%2" (52 cm); size 36: 2114" (54 cm) Size 38: 21%" (54 cm) size 40: 2214" (85 cm); size 42: 23° (56 cm); size 44 2314" (89 cm) long, and 15" (4 em) Wide (including seam allowances) I bias strip for hem, piece strips to ‘make a total of: size 24: 38/4" (97 cm} size 36: 39%" (101 cm); size 28. 41) Pr eee ratte Blue pattern line, sheets Diz Pattern pieces 1 and 2 Size 34 Size 36 2 af Ir 1 Cutting layout View ¢ Jersey, 60° (152.5 cm) wide Sizes 34-44 Fold the fabri as shown inthe cuting layout right sides together (105 em; size 40; 4216" (108 cm); size 442: aa" (112 em); size aA: 5% (116 cm) tong, and 1's" (4.cm) wige {including seam allowances) View ¢ densey: "front, cut 1 on fold 2 back, cut 1 on fold 2) back neck facing, size 34: 1236" (52 em); size 36: 13° (33 cmy size 38: 13/7 G4 em size 40: 1344" (35 cm) size 42: 1414" (36 cm) size ad 1415" (27 cm) long, 4 cm (13% ins) wide (including seam allowances) SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 91project instructions Construction Mote: Stitch seams on streteh fabrics with 2 special stretch stitch, @ narrow zigzag fr with a serger Stitch hem allowances with twin needle to keep them Stretchable. View A @ Back neck edge: Fold bias stip lengthwise and press: Pin folded bias Strip to back neck edge so that folded edge lies toward garment, %° (1 cm) past seamline. Stich along neck edge. “im seam allowances. Tum bias strip to inside and press edge. Topstiteh Ma (6 mm) from neck edge. 1 Shoulder seams: Pin back shoulder {edges to front shoulder edges. Lay front self-facing an back at fod line, and pin to shoulder edges, Stitch shoulder seams, ‘nm seam allowances. Pull back out of tront. ress shoulder seams but da not press fold edge on front. Baste facing to ‘armhole edges. Im Face armhole edges with bias strips as for neck edge Im Sitch sie seams, Fish seam allowances {agether and press toward back Sew upper tends of seam allawances to armholes by han. 'W Face hem edge with bias stip, beginning and encing at one side seam. Tum under sip end at joining View ¢ Back neck edge, see view A. Use facing strip instead of bias strip 1 Shoulder seams, se view A, Im Press sear allowances on armholes to Inside and turn raw edges under: Work {rom right side and use twin needle to stitch Ma" (6 mm) ftom each armhole cage I Sitch sie seams. Fish seam allowances together and press toward back. Sew upper tends of seam allawences to armhces by hanes 1 Turn hem allowance to inside Working from right side, use twin needle to stitch %" (6mm) from fold 92 burdastyle.com SPRING 2014 131- 022014-US fess Dress eee aTenuaVALOLE on msext suceT Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 fon page 26 Length from waist: 25%" (65 em) Materials Rayon chalis, 54° (137 cin) wide: 254 yas (2.3 m) forall sizes Fusible interfacing Notion. 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60 cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) {for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation “Trace pieces 1-10 trom pattern sheet Cut out all paper pices Cutting Lay out pattern pleces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Rayon chal 1 inside front, cut 4 inside back, cut 4 3 front with integrated sleeve, cut 2 {ut rom a double layer of fabric folded ight der together 4 back with integrated sleeve, cut 2 5 center front skit panel, cut 1 on fold 6 side front skirt panel, cut 2 7 center back skirt panel, cut 2 8 side back skit panel, cut 2 9 front neck facing, cut 2 10 back neck facing, cut 2 22 straps, sie 36: 12%" (31 em) sizes 38, 40. 12%" (32 cm size 42, a4: 13° (@3 cm) long, and 4° (2 em) wide fusible interfacing: Cut rom shaded areas on cutting layout. Also fuse 4" (1 cin)-wide strips to wrong Sie of front shoulder seam and zipper fopening edges, Construction Stitch center seam on inside fronts beginning at upper edge, exacty on marked neck edge. Stitch front darts and press toward center. Stitch side seams of Inside pieces (seam number 1). Press seam allowances open, Pin inside front {and back pieces to outer pieces, right sides together. Stitch along neck and armhole edges. Tim seam allowances. Turn eight-side out an press edges Baste along back and lower edges, |m With right sides together, fold straps lengthwise, Stitch long edges together and across one end using 2 Ys" (6 mm) seam. Tur straps right-side out. Sew seamed front strap ends to Innerside of neck front corners, Fin ack strap ends Under back corners of neck edge. Red pattern line, sheet B1-82 Pattern pieces 1 to 10 Size 36 ee Sei eaWith right sides together, lay fronts ‘with integrated sleeves togetner. Stitch ‘enter front seam, beginning exactly at marked point of neck edge, Press seam allowances open. Stitch front darts and tess toward center. Stitch shoulder seams (seam number 2), 1 Stitch facing center front seam, beginning at upper edge, exacty at marked neck edge. Stiten facing shoulder seams. Stich facing to neck edge. Trim seam allowances, Turn facing up and Understith. Turn facing to inside and press edges, Baste facing to lower edge 1 Finish sleeve edges: Press hem allowance to wrong side, Working from fight side, stitch along fold edge with ‘closely spaced 2igzaq stitching. On inside, trim hem allowance close to stitching W Lay front and back pieces on inside unit, with wrong side facing right side, ‘and baste lawer edges together, matching sleeve edges and side seams. Baste back edges together Stitch section seams and side seam of skit, Stiteh skirt 0 bodice, Press seam allowances down, 1 On back pieces, turn neck facing up ‘again, Sew invisible zipper to back ‘opening edges; see instructions on page 166. Such center back seam from lower ‘edge t0 zipper. Turn facing down, turn ‘edges under, and sew to Zipper tapes. Sew inside facing edge to shaulder I Finish hem edge with closely spaced zigzag stitching, as for sleeves. Ty on dress, adjust strap length, and sew back strap ends in place, 134- 022014- US Dress 0 PATTERN AVALABLEAS ‘A downoa0 a: goa Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 fon page 112 Length fram waist: 2414* (62 em) Materials Voile, 54° (137 em) wide: 1% yds (1.7 rm) for al sizos Interfacing Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 16° (40 em) eng Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation Trace pleces 1-8 from pattern sheet Lengthen piece 4 as indicated. Cut out al paper pieces ‘Seam and hem allowances Bandi seam allowance: ‘4° (I cm) cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place, Cut the following numbered pieces: Voile: upper front, cut 2 2 lower front, cut 1 on fold 3 side, cut 2 4 back, cut 2 5 front neck facing, cut 2 6 back neck facing, cut 2 7 front armhole facing, cut 2 B back armhole facing, cut 2 2)2 bias bands, size 36: 17" (44 em); size 38: 18%" (46 cm) size 40. 19° (48 em); size 42: 19%" (50 cm); size 44 2012" (52 em) long, and 1/4" (3 em) wide 1) bow, 8%" (22 em) long, and 1 (cm) wide bow knot, 2%" (6 em) long, and 114" (Gem) wide Interfacing Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout, Construction I Sutch darts in upper fronts and press toward center. Stiteh shoulder seams. Stitch neck facing shoulder seams and press seam allowances open. Stitch facings to neck edges, trim seam allowances. Turn facings up and Uunderstitch Turn facings to inside and sew to seams. Baste front facing ends in place. I Stitch darts in fawer fant and press toward center. On upper point of front, told seam allowance down horizontally and press. Stitch upper fronts to lower front with neck edges meeting at center font, Press seam allowances dow, WW Stitch darts insides. Prose carts toward back. Stitch ides to front and back pieces Im Fold bands in haf enathwise, wrong sides together, and press. Lay each band, fold edge up, on lower fron, along section seam, and mark center front on band end, Thm front band ends at markings, turn under %* (1 cm), and press, unfolding bands again to do so, In front, pin bands to dress, 4" (1 em) below section seam, and then along attachment line, with folded band edge pointing down, Stitch bands in place, ‘hen press up over seams (pressed-under fends of bands meet at center front) Handsstiteh folded edges of bends in place. I Sew invisible zipper to back opening edges, see instructions on page 66. Fold Upper ends of zipner tapes down and sew in place. Stitch center back seam ‘rom lower edge to zipper. I Stitch armhole facing shoulder seams and side seams. Stitch armhole facings to ‘armholes; tim seam allowances and clip Cures. Turn facings to inside and press edges. Sew inside facing edges to seams 1m Press hem allowance to inside and hhand-titch in place. 1 Fold bow and bow knot each lengthaise, ight sides together. Stitch long edges. Tum right side out and press. Fold bow ends to center and sew ‘together, Gather center of bow, Lay knot piace around bow center and hang-stiten to underside. Sew bow to dress center ‘ont SPRING 2014 burdastyle.com 93project instructions 135- "i bring line 022014-US 3 side from, cut 2 4 minus facing width and adding a %* Jacket (21cm) ease pleat at conter back PATTERN AVALABLE 5 side back, cut 2 onsen set B upper sieeve, cut 2 9 under sieeve, cut 2 Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 ocean CCut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Also cut 114" (3.8 cm)-wide strins for hem allowances, ‘on page 30, Back length: 22° (55 em) Green pattern line, sheets D1-02 Pattern pieces 1 to 12 Size 36 Batting jez ag Se Materials . Fuse 4° (10 cm of ating to side tront sos ol or wool blend, 60° (152.5¢m) and hack wrong sides above hem line eae wide: 17 ya (1.70 m) for al sizes (n upper sleeves, on batting to wrong ceo Luning, 54° (137 em) wide: 1% yas side, over marked stitching line, so that ve (1.3 m) forall sizes batting extends %e" (1 cmi past Upper Interfacing and lower ines. » Notions: Fusible batting: 1 two-way Separating zipper, sizes 36, 38:22" Construction (85 cm); sizes 40, 42, 4: 24° (60 em) long; 2 hammeron snap fasteners I Stitch middle fronts ta side fronts, Topstitcn middle front close to seams. Stitch center fronts to mide fronts and Read Burda instructions (on page 64) ssh center fronts to side fronts, below ' q if for general sewing guidelines and ng middle pieces. Topstitch center fronts Sncrodiccory lafoemaden, aiong seams. Stitch side backs to center back. Topstiteh center back along seams. Preparation Trace pieces 1-12 fram pattern sheet IW Suten side seams, shoulder seams, Curpotall sepa? penta and facing seams. Press seam allowances The loop markings on pieces 2 and 4 are OPE Cutting layouts {or size 36. For other sizes, remark loops a With right sides together, fl loop. according to siz lines. strip lengthwise. Stiteh #4" (1 em) from fold edge. Turn right-side out. Topsiten Cutting close to edges. Cut into 2 equal pieces, Layutouk pater peo foto “Turn loop ends under so finshed length fabric as snown and pin in place, Cut the is 2° {5 cm). Lay each loop across a following numbered pieces shoulder seam. Edgestitch ends of loops Lar wal in place. 1 center front, cut 2 Lay each interfaced tab on a non- 2 middle front, cut 2 interfaced tab, right sides together. 3 side front, cut 2 Stitch iong edges together and pointed ‘center back, xt on td fend of tab. Turn right-side out. Topsiten 5 side back, cut 2 tabs close to edges. Slip tabs through shoulder loops and baste to arminole 6 front facing, cut 2 7 back facing, cut 1 on fold eciges fappermese cura Wh For sizes 36 40,42, nd 4, shorten S ecleion? pel Be Rabuclastob papa 10 cata, eat? on fold I Separate zipper. Tur n upper ends of 1 cela stan cut 2 on fold ise tres Pt aes cea prartoee Pecohaee tn ones Ee acwaiyng. bmasionanbestiorerestinttmh sg sccncegeines cmenmmarits a zlaops orl of 7 (ecm) ona. TZ ganent ee and appa tape hes MN together, Such col stands allowances) fon seam allowance, Stitch Zipper t@Pes press open, Topstitch close to each side Lining: ‘Sy een alle: ‘of seams. Stitch collar pieces together on Cente ont nin: ty pieces" ard'2__w Notched call and ron edaes Fin gue edpes,bullangs ite exra {ogetter Pointed bottom end of ece 2 facing to acket, ight ses ogeter Pn) fulness nt tp cole and begining RODMOM AMAT ONDE I aid IopeCedlniesteuere, utiained” SM ching ceca gestae oF Thing nes meet at bust level The small exta fullness into lapel corners Stich attachment edge Tarn colar nigntside spacewhih omsin between can be. facing to lapel age rom marking 0. gut ay calor between eck ene ‘gnored. Trace center frant lining, up to font edges. Leave facing hing on jacket, facing. Stiten undercolar to jacket neck 94 burdastyle.com SPRING 2014‘edge, from each marking to corner. Clip ‘seam allowances of fronts into cornet. Stitch long edge of undercollar to neck fecige of jacket. Stitch top collar to facing. Clip seam allowances of facing into corners. Press seam allowances of collar attachment seams open. Turn facing to inside. Pin collar attachment seams together exactly. Turn back facing Up and understitch close to collar ‘attachment seam. Turn facing down, 1 Atnem edge, unfold facings forward, Turn hem alowance to inside, baste, and press, Topstitch 1" @2,5 em) from hem ledge. Turn facings 1 inside and sew to hem allowance. Topstite close to front, ‘olla, and lapel edges. Above stitching for hem, topstitch side tront and back pieces with 3 more rows spaced 1" (25 em) apart On upper sleeves, hand baste along topstitching lines to make these lines visible on right fabric side. Topstitch Upper sleeves as marked. Sitch sleeve seams, Press sleeve hem allowances 10 inside and stitch in place 1" 2.5 cm) from lower sleeve edge Wi Set in sleeves 1m Fasten shoulder tabs to shoulder seams with one snap each so they extend past sleeve seams by %" (2 cm). 1 Sew lining: On lining back, stitch ease pleat along center back 2° (5 cm) at both top and bottom, and baste pleat between. Press pleat to one side. Stitch ling seams. Set in sleeve linings. WH Sew lining in jacket: Stitch lining to inside facing edge, leaving 314" (8 cm) ‘open at lower edge, Lay lning inside jacket with wrong sides facing, pulling fining into sleeves. Above jacket hem, pin 2% (1 cm) fold in lining. Turn in lower lining edges and sew to her allowance. Remove pins: Lay extra lining length down and press lightly Sew remaining front ining edges to facing 138- 022014- US Dress #¢ PATER AVAILABLE AS ADowoaD a pays Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 fon page 43 Length fram waist: 2514* (64 em) Materials Crépe de Chine, 54" (137 em): size ad Vyas (1-7 m, sizes 46, 48, 50, 52 2H yds (2'5 m) Fusible interfacing Notion: 1 invisible zip, 16° (40 em) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Cut ‘out all paper pieces. Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place, Cut the “ollowing numbered pieces Crepe de Chine: upper front with cut-on sleeve.cut 1 (on fold 2 upper back with cuton sleeve, cut 1 ‘on fold 3 lower front, cut Yon fold 4 lower back, cut 1 on fold 5 front neck facing, cut 1 on fold 6 back neck facing, cut t on fold Interfacing Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout Fuse 24" (2 cmpwide sips ta wrong side of zipper opening edges. Construction fm Stich shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams. Finish seam allowances together and press toward back. Stitch back neck facing to trent facing at shoulder seams. Im Stich neck facing to neck edge. Tim seam allowances. At neck edge, turn facing up and understiten, Tuen facing to Inside and press edge, Sew inside facing ledge to shoulder seams, I Stitch darts and press toward center front and center back. Stitch upper front land back pieces ta corresponding lower Pr eee ratte places. Press seam allowances down I Sew invisible zipper to left side edges between opening marks; see instructions ‘on page 66. Leave upper ends of zipper ‘apes loose. Stitch let side seam trom lower edge to zipper: Stitch right side seam below opening mark. Press seam allowances open. im Press sleeve hem allowances to inside, turn hem width in half, and stitch in place, Fold upper ends of zipper tapes own and sew in place Im Press hem allowance to inside and hand-titch in place 139- a 022014- \ US Skirt PATTERN LADLE nine et Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 fon page 40 Skirt length: 251 (64a) Materials ‘Sikcponlin. 54" (137 am) wide: 17 ys (1.65 m) forall sizes Fusble interfacing Notions." invisible zipper, 9° (22cm) long; 1 button, 14" (1.3 cm) Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation ‘Trace pieces 21-23 trom pattern sheet. Gus pieces 21 and 213 together as marked. On piece 22, trace the packet piece Up to marked placement ine. Cut out all paper pieces. Cutting Lay out pattem pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: ‘sk papi 21 front skirt panel, cut 1 22 side hip yoke with integrated pocket, cutz 22 pocket, cut 2 23 back skit panel, cut 1 on fold 4) waistband with 1° (3 em) underlap: size dd: 3494" (88 cm} size 46: 2614" (02 cm); size 48. 38%" (98 cy size 50: ‘SPRING 2014 burdastyle.comproject instructions Black pattern line, sheets D1-D2 Pattern pieces 21 to 23 Size 44 Sizeas —— Size 48 — Cutting layout Silk poplin, $4* (137 em) wide seivage Fold [23 ee selvages ald the fabric 2¢ shown in the pattern layout right ses fagether an a double layer, "ight se up on a single layer {by the asymmetric ont shirt panel an the fabric right side, Printed side up. 441° (104 em); size 52: 4396" (110 cin) long, anci 2%" (7 em) wide (including seam allowances) Interfacing: Fuse to skirt waistband. Construction 1 Lay pleats infront skitt panel in 96 burdastyle.com SPRING 2014 direction of artows and press. Baste pleats to upper edge. For the top pleat, fold front skirt panel on pleat fod line, wrong sides together, place fold at placement line, and pin in place. Baste pleat to upper Skirt panel edge Hip voke pockets: Sutch pocket to pocket opening edges of front skirt panel. Turn pocket pieces up and Understitch close tg seam. Turn packet pieces to inside. Fin pocket opening edges to side hip yokes, at placement lines. Stitch edges of pocket pieces together. Baste packets ta wrong side of front skint panel Ww Stitch back darts and press toward center hack. Stitch right side seam. Press Seam allowances open 1 Sew invisible ipper to let opening edge; see Instructions on page 66. Stitch left side seam from lower edge t0 zipper. Stitch waistband to upper skirt ede, leave underlap extending at back pening edge. Press seam allowances owaid waistoang, Press other long waistband edge toward walstband. Fold ‘waistband lenathwise, right sides together and stich across ends. Turn right-side out. Hand-sitch inside edge in place and Sew underiap edges together Stitch a buttonhole infront end of ‘waistband 1H Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place, Sew button under buttonhole 140-022014- US Blouse ° PATTERN AWALABLE ‘sear SET Burda sizes 44, 46, 48,50, 52 fon page 44 Back length: 30%" (77 em) Materials Crepe, 54° (137 cmp: sizes 4, 46: Ta yds (1-5 mi, sizes 43, 50, 82:2 yes (am) Crape-back satin (contrast, 54’ (137 cm) wide. sizes 44, 46, 48: % yd (5 my sizes 50, 52: % y0 55m) Interfacing Notion! 1 invisible zipner, 16° (40 cm) long | Black pattern 8 Pattern pieces 1 to 8 Size 44 Size 46 — Size 48 Size 50 Size $2 ———_— a yA L* LAIN te We bes Cutting layouts Crepe, 54° (137 cm) wide sizes 44 and a6 seloge cls sehoue Sizes 48 - 52 fold sohages répe-back satin, 54° (137 cm) wide Sizes 44-52 sold S| Rightsies Bp ‘together ona ‘ouble layer of ‘ ‘abr Right side LS upon a single ayer i of fabric Cutright ‘nae sever ae SposaRead Burda Instructions (on page 64) {for general sewing guidelines and introductory information, Preparation “ace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet, “ace facing fom piece 1 2s a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper peces. ‘Seam and hem allowances Cut sleeve hems %4* (1.5 em). cutting Lay out patter pieces on fabric as shown and pis in place. Cut the following numbered pieces Creve 1 fiont, cut 1 on fold 1 front neck acing, cut 1 on fold 2 back, cut 1 on fold 6 sleve front, eut2 7 sieeve back, cut2 & back neck facing, cut 1 on fold (crépe-back satin: 3 font insert, cut 1 on fold 4 sleve front, eut2 5 sleeve back cut2 Use the shiny satin side of the fabric as the right fabric side interfacing: Cut fom shaded areas on cutting layout. Construction 1 Stitch bust dats. Trim dart allowances ta A" (1 cm) wide, finish edges together, and press down, I Stitch shoulder seams on blouse and ‘on neck facing. Press seam allowances, open. Neck eige: Pin facing to neck edge ‘Stitch along neck edge. Trim seam allowances and clip at center front. Turn facing up and undestitch, Turn facing to inside and press edge. |W Fold front insert at upper edge (fabric {old line}, wrong sides togetner, and press. Baste edges together. Lay frant on insert, with wrong side facing right side, neck edge meeting placement line and ‘seam mark meeting upper insert edge, Pin insert to facing Only, leaving front free, Lift front and stitch facing to insert, 4% (1am) from neck edge I Stiteh ight side seam. Sew invisible Zipper to left opening edges; see instructions on page 66. Stitch left side seam from lower edge to zipper. Close Zipper. Press seam allowances open on sleeve pieces of erépe and crepe back satin, separately stitch upper seams, each above sit mark, and stitch lower sleeve seams. Press seams open. Press seam allowances on slit edge to inside. Finish hem and slit edges of sleeves ‘Work from right side to stiten along folded edge with closely spaced zigzag, stitch. On inside, carefully tim allowance ose to stitching. Pull crépe sleeves over cidpe-back satin sleeves, with wrang side ‘acing right side, and baste upper edges together: I Set in sleeves. Finish seam allowances ledges together and press toward sleeve 1m Press blouse hem allowance to inside fand hand:-tith in place. 141- 022014- US Dress 9¢ PATERNAL ONINSERT SET Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 fon page 42 Length ftom waist: 2415" (62 em) Materials Cotton poplin, 54° (137 em) wide: sizes 444, 46: 1% yds (1.5 my; size 50: 2 yds (1.8 my; size 52: 2% yas (2 m) Intedacing ation: 1 invisible zipper, 40 cm (16 ins) ona: grosgrain ribbon, 1° (2.5 cm) wide: VA yds (1.55 m) Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation Trace pieces 1,2, and 8 fom the pattern sheet. Lengthen pieces 1 and 2 as Indicated. Trace the facing from piece 1 25 separate patter piece. Cut out al paper pieces Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Cotton poplin ‘front, cut 1 on fold 1 front neck facing, cut 1 on fold 2 back, cut 10n fold & back neck facing, cut 1 on fold Pr eee ratte ra Black pattern line, sheets Pattern pieces 1,2, and & Cotton poplin Size 44 4 1 2 7 Le 1 1 Fel, fl Cutting layouts ens yen Aight side together on a double layer if fabrie ighs side up an 3 ingle ayer Of fabric For sizes 40 and 46, cut the ‘lars [ae tfom single ayer of fabric Sizes 48 -52 Selvage sehage SPRING 2016 burdastyle.com 97PN emer Lacy 4) 2 bias armhole edge strips: size 4 2204" (57 ci); size 46: 23" (5B cm); size 448: 2354" (60 cm); size 50. 24° (61 em); size 52-24%" (63 em) long, and Tet (4m) wide {incluciing seam allowances) Interfacing: Cut ftom shaded areas on pattem layout. Construction 1m Stitch bust darts. Tim dart allowances 10 4" (1 cm) wide, finish edges together, and press down, 1m Pin grosgrain bbon to front and back Filine as marked. Edgestich rsbon in place IW Stitch shoulder seams on dress and on facing. Press seams open Neck edae: Pin facing to neck edge Stitch along neck edge. Trim seam allowances and clip at center front. Turn facing up and understitch. Turn facing to Inside and press ede. For the back neck edge, cut arosoain ribbon: size 44: 13° 33 crn), izes 65, 8: 13%" (4 ey sizes 50, 52: 13%" 35 em). Lay grosgrain ribbon on pattem piece for back neck facing and ion to shape. Mark angles of shoulders and tim ends of ribbon 10-4" (fc) fom shoulder sant Fold remainder of rsbon to hal its lath, Pin pattern piece for front facing to non 30 that battam comer of facing meet fold edge. Stic ribbon together along front facing edge (center from ikea Gat. Press dart open, pressing point of dart fat. Tim ‘extending nbon edges Fold ribbon in hal {agin and ion to shape, to match font neck ledge. Mark angles of shoulders and trim ribbon ends 4° (1 cm) from shoulder slants. Stitch shoulder sears on ron, Press seam allowances epen. in rbben to neck edge ‘and edgestiin nlbben edges in place 1m Armoles: Fold bias strips in alt lengthwise, wrong ides together, and press, Stitch flded bias strips to armhole ledges so that folded edge ofeach sip lies fon garment plese,’ (1 cm) past seam line. Thm seam allowances, Turn strips to Inside. Topstitch 1" (6 mm) trem edges 1m Stitch right side seam. Sew invisible Zipper to left opening edges; see instructions on page 66. Begin at armhole edge and leave zipper tapes extending at the top. Stitch left side seam from lower edge to zipper. Press seam allowances open. Lay upaer ends Of zipper tapes over seam allowances and baste in place. Sew ends of seam allowances in place by han 1m Press hem allowance to inside andl hand-titch in place. 98 burdastyle.com SPRING 2014 142- 022014- US Tunic © aTeRuaVALOLE on seer seET Burda sizes 44, 46, 48,50, 52 fon page 41 Back length: 3114" (80 cm) Materials rte de Chine, 4° (137 cm) wide: sizes 44, 46: Dh yds (2.4 m); sizes 48, 50, 52: 2% yd (2.50 m) Fusibleintertacing Notion: fusible bias stay tape Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and Introductory infarmation. Preparation ‘Trace pieces 1-5 trom pattern sheet. Cut ‘out all paper pieces. ‘The stitching lines atthe sits on pieces 1 and 3 ate marked for size 4 For sizes 4652, remark the stitching lines according to the size lines. Seam and hem allowances Seve hems 2* (5 cm) and side sits 1% Gem, cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place, Cut the following numbered pieces: (Coie ge Chine: front, cut 1 on fold 2 front yoke, cut 2 on fold 3 back, cut 1 on fold ‘back yoke, cut 2 on Told S sleeve, cut 2 2) sleeve vent facings, 9%" 23 cm) ona, and 2° (5 cm) wide (including seam allowances) )2 front te bands, 24” (60m) long, and 14" (em) wie (including seam allowances) 6) 4 sleeve tie bands, 14° (35 em) long, and 1%" @ em) wide including seam allowances) Invertacing Fuse (1.5 empwide sips to slash line ‘wrong sides. Fusible bias stay tape Fuse to wrong side of neck edges on outer yoke pieces Red pattern line, sheets C1-C2 Pattern pieces 1 to5 Size 52 an) (oe e ' Cutting layout Crépe de Chine, 54° (137 em) wide Fold Fold the fabric as shown inthe cutting Iayout—right side together on a double layer of fabric right side up on single layer Cutright and letsleeves as opposites Construction On front, lay pleats in direction of arrows and baste, Stitch shoulder seams (seam number 1). Press seam allowances ‘open. 1 Fold te bancls lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch %" (5 mm) from folded edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn bandsright-side aut and press, Stitch shoulder seams on outer and inner yoke. Use tailor’ chalk to mark sit ‘on both front yoke centers. On one front yoke, mark attachment positions for tie bands, %* (1.5 em) and %* ( em) above fend of slit. Pin yokes, ight sides together, around sit markings. Stitch closely atound slit marking, leaving 4c (G mm) open on right and lett edge of slit at positon for each tie bands Continue stitching along neck edge. Slash slit between stitching lines. Trim sear Sllowences on neck edge. Turn inside yoke up and understiteh as tar as possible at slit Turn yoke right-side aut Slide tie bands to inside through ‘openings and stitch openings closed, Press sit edges Baste open yore edges togetrer Stith yoke to front and back. Press Seam allowances away from yoke. IW Stich side seams above slit marks Press seam allowances open. Press erm allowance on front and back to inside, turn in, and stitch as marked, Press sit allowances to inside, turnin, and stitch ‘3s marked, 1m Press both long edges of sleeve vent facings toward center and press. Lay ‘each facing on sleeve, over vent marking and pin ~ turned-under facing edge up. Work from rong side to stitch closely ‘rund marking, leaving openings for te bands on both vent edges, between seam marks, Slash between stitching lines. Turn facing to inside. Side tie bands to inside, through openings, and stitch openings closed. Topstich V4 (6 mm) from sit edges and across unger sit end 1m Stitch sleeve seams, Turn sleeve hem allowances to wrong side and baste Work from right side to stiteh as marked, ‘Sew hem allowances ta sit edges. Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps 143- 022014- US Dress eee PATTERN AVALABLEAS ‘A ownoa0 a: payee Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 fon page 45 Length fram waist: 254° (6 em) Materials Swill $4* (137 em) wide: size 4a: 2% ye (2.5 m); sizes 46, 48: 2% yas (2.6m) sizes 50, $2: 3 yds (2.7 m) Interacing Notions: 4 small fabric-cavered buttons Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information. Preparation Trace pleces 1-6 from pattern sheet Lengthen piece 3 as indicated. Trace the pocket piece from piece | a5 2 separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces, “The markings for loops on piece 2 are for size 4A, For sizes 45-52, move top ‘marking up accordingly, The bottom ‘marking is the same forall sizes. Mark 2 loops evenly between Hem allowance Cut hem 2° (5 cm) Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces ill ‘ont, cut 1 on fold 1 pocket, cut 4 2 front yoke, cut 4 2 back, cut Ton fold 4 back yoke, cut 1 on fold Sleeve, cut 2 6 standing collar, cut 2.07 fold 2) bias strip for 4 loops, 8° (20 em) long, and 14" (3 cm) wide (including seam allowances) Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout, Construction Stitch darts in back. Press darts roward center, Lay pleats in front in direction of arrows and baste, Stitch shoulder seams, Press seam allowances Pr eee ratte open I Stich shoulder seams on outer ang inner yokes W Lay collars right sides together, Stitch along front and upper edges. Tim seam allowances. Turn colar rightside out and press, Baste collar edges together to neck edge of outer yoke, from seam mark I Fold bias strip for loops lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch Ye" (@ mm) ‘rom folded edge. Trim seam allowances +10 Yo" (5 mm) wide, Use a thread loop to turn loops right-side out. Do not press fabric tube flat. Cut tube inta 5 equal pieces. Form each piece inta a loop. Baste loops to right frant edge of outside ‘yoke as marked - test loop size with buttons. Lay outer and inner yokes right sides together. Above seam mark, stitch along front and neck edges, catching loops and collar. Tim seam allowances, clipping comers diagonally. At seam mark, turn Inside front yoke up anc pin. Stitch center front seam on outer yoke and Inner yokes separately, Turn yoke right- side out. Press edges and press center seams open. Baste open yoke edges, together. Stitch yoke to font and back. Press seam allowances away trom yoke. Stitch sie seams, leaning pocket openings free WW lnseam nackets: Fin pockets to seam allowances of pocket opening edges, Tight sides together, and stitch in place, directly along marked seam lines. Press pockets forward and stitch together, 1m Tum hem allowance to inside, turn in edges, and stitch. Stitch sleeve seams, Turn lower sleeve edges to inside on marked fold lines “Turn edges under ana stich in place Fold lower edge of each sleove up 2° (Sem) to form culf, and press. Tack tutned-up sleeve edges to seains with a few hand stitches, I Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps 1 Sew buttons in place SPRING 2016 burdastyle.com 99project instructions 144. 022014- US Trousers PATTERN AVAILABLE AS ‘ADownLoA0 at pea ETC Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 fon page 41 Side length: 4118" (105 em) Hem circumference: 16° (40 cen) Upper waistband sits %" (1

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