Professional Documents
Culture Documents
FRAMEWORKS
Attacking and Defending Moyos
by
Fujisawa Shuko
Translated by
John Power
PREFACE
The aim of a reducing move is similar to that of an invasion, in that
it tries to prevent the opponent from enlarging his area. Limiting the
expansion of his territorial framework (moyo) or reducing its size may
not bring you actual profit locally, but in the overall context it maintains territorial balance, so it is a large-scale strategy. That means that
you have to make a cool assessment of the overall position and that you
have to articulate a strategy of defence and offence that applies to the
whole board.
The reducing move is not directly a fighting technique. However, it
often serves as preparation for fighting elsewhere or provokes a counterattack that makes fighting unavoidable. In contrast to the concreteness
of an invasion, both the aim and the execution of a reducing move are
abstract. Rather than local tactical skills, an overall strategic vision is
called for, but for this very reason it is necessary to master its basic
concepts and techniques. It may not be a fighting technique, but you
must always be ready to fight.
The first chapter of this book discusses the basic concepts of the reducing move. The next three chapters give a systematic presentation of
the important patterns or josekis. The fourth chapter attempts to give
the reader a feeling for how reducing manoeuvres function in the context of whole-board planning by examining the strategic choices involved
in deciding between reducing and invading, between surrounding and
expanding territory. The final chapter looks at examples, presented as
pick-the-next-move problems, taken from my games. The most difficult stage in a game of go is the transition from the opening to the
middle game. To steer your course safely through this stage, a sound
grasp of the theory and practice of reducing and invading is essential,
and acquiring such a grasp is the first step towards giving your game
greater profundity.
I would like to acknowledge the invaluable assistance of the go
writer Aiba Kazuhiro in putting together this book. I would also
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like to express my gratitude to the Ishi Press for making an Englishlanguage version available to go fans around the world. I hope that it
can make a contribution to your understanding and appreciation of
the game.
October 1977 and June 1986
Fujisawa Shuko
TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE
With the publication of this book, the Ishi Press comes one step
closer to achieving its goal of providing a complete coverage of the
various fighting techniques of go. Reducing Territorial Frameworks
is intended to complement the coverage of invasion techniques presented in Enclosure Josekis. The two books are closely related because
in the fighting of the early middle game a player usually has to make a
direct choice between the two techniques of invading and reducing.
His choice, of course, profoundly influences the subsequent course of
the game.
This book was written by Aiba Kazuhiro, a leading go writer, in
close collaboration with Fujisawa Shuko, Honorary Kisei. In my
opinion, it presents the best and most systematic analysis of reducing
techniques available in Japanese. It should serve not only as a valuable
reference guide but also as a textbook in the techniques involved in
reducing manoeuvres and in the underlying strategic concepts. Not
only does it explain the tactics involved in reducing moves, it also
attempts to provide the reader with the theoretical understanding
necessary for making the correct choice between reducing and invading.
As Shuko points out, there are intuitive elements involved in any
strategic decision that can only be learnt from actual play, but I am
confident that this book will provide the reader with a firm basis for
experimentation in his own games.
June 1986
John Power
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Preface
Translator's Preface
vi
viii
1
1
2
16
21
23
25
27
28
35
42
65
72
75
78
88
93
102
102
114
120
124
129
129
137
144
170
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CHAPTER ONE
The Basics of Reducing
Reduce or invade?
The traditionally established order of priority in the fuseki is:
1. empty corners, 2. enclosures or approach moves, 3. extensions,
4. checking extensions (tsume), 5. jumps. This traditional order is not
always observed nowadays, with the popularity of moves such as the
3 - 3 and 44 points that occupy the corner in one move and dispense
with the need for enclosures. Such moves arise from Black's desire to
start early fighting. Nevertheless, in fundamentals, fuseki strategy still
hews to the traditional order.
A reducing move (keshi also known in English as an 'erasure') has
the same value as the fifth move listed above, the jump. In the same
sense in which an enclosure and an approach move have the same value
(with the difference that the former is steady, the latter aggressive), a
jump and a reducing move have the same value. The jump expands
territory, the reducing move cuts it down in size. Likewise, a defensive
move surrounding territory and an invading move have the same value.
Dia. 1. When White has played the
marked stone, expanding territory with
Black 'a' and solidifying it with Black 'b'
have the same potential value. If it is
White's turn to move, reducing with 'a'
and invading at 'c' or 'd' are worth the
same.
When the opponent neglects to expand
or defend his territory one takes advanDia. 1
tage of his omission to invade or reduce his moyo. Both sides have to
take the whole board into account when planning the local strategy. In
most games, an invasion or a reducing move will mark the transition
from the opening to the middle game, from the fuseki to the fighting.
Since the chances are that you'll be fighting inside your opponent's
sphere of influence, you have to be very careful about your timing.
- 1 -
Dia. 2
5. Creating a foothold for an invasion
6. Mutual reduction
7. Building centre territory
8. Taking aim at defects in the opponent's shape
9. Maintaining the balance of influence
10. Reinforcing weak stones
11. Making preparations for an attack
12. Following a shinogi strategy (i.e. leaving a weak group
exposed to attack).
The above by no means exhausts the list of possibilities. In most
cases, a move will probably combine several of these objectives. How
these tactics work out in actual play will be analysed in Chapters 5 and
6; here we will just make a quick survey of the above list. The positions
are taken from professional games.
Dia. 3 (maintaining territorial balance) (next page)
White has secure profit in four corners, but Black has a large moyo.
Considering the menacing influence of Black's thickness in the upper
right, his moyo would probably turn into untouchable territory if he
were allowed to enclose it with 'a'. This is the right time to play 1.
White has to maintain the territorial balance; rather than preventing
Black from expanding his moyo, he is preventing him from expanding
his secure territory.
3-
Dia. 3
Dia. 4 (the continuation)
When Black attaches at 1, he is hoping for a fight with White 4, Black
8, White 9, Black 3, White 'a', Black 10. However, White makes a hane
at 2, in spite of the fact
that the ladder is unfavourable, then makes
shape with the crude but
effective sequence to 12.
Instead of Black 13, attacking with Black bWhite 'a'-Black 14 is
probably better.
Dia. 4
_4_
Dia. 5
Dia. 7
Dia. 8 (the continuation)
Black counterattacks with 1, aiming to make White heavy. White
slides into the side with 2
and 4, laying waste to
Black's moyo and cutting
off a stone. He is satisfied.
However, the fact that
Black's position on the
left side has been strengthened means that the white
stones at the bottom have
been weakened, so White
now does not have time
to spend a move enclosing the right side. This
was the aim of Black's
strategy.
Dia. 8
-6
-12-
Dia. 21 (reinforcing)
White 1 reduces the right-side moyo and, if Black 'a', also aims at
strengthening the white
group above with White
'b', Black'c', White'd'. If
White settles that group
he will at one stroke take
the lead: a group which
should have become a target for attack would have
instead been transformed
into thickness. White 1 at
'e' would be more solid,
but Black would probably
ignore it and play at 'f'.
Dia. 21
Dia. 22 (the continuation)
Defending on the side would only help the opponent, so Black counterattacks, splitting White
with 1. Plunging in at 2 is
natural. Black looks like
getting a double attack
(karami) with 5 and 11,
but the game should be
favourable for White if
he can rescue both his
groups without suffering
serious damage. Fights
following from reducing
moves often develop into
whole-board warfare.
Dia. 22
-13-
Dia. 25
Dia. 26 (the continuation)
White attempts to capture Black by intercepting with 1. White would
probably fall behind in
territory if he defended
at 8 with 1, letting
Black backtrack to 'a'.
Considering how tightly
hemmed in he is, a ko
with 2 to 8 is probably
the best that Black can
hope for. A trade followed later, with White
playing a ko threat at 'b',
then capturing the four
black stones there.
Dia. 26
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Where to reduce
As mentioned earlier, reducing manoeuvres are made during the transition from the opening to the middle game. At this stage the player has
to choose, taking careful stock of the whole board, among the four options open to him: surrounding, expanding, reducing, and invading.
If you play a reducing move too early, you may just help the opponent
to strengthen his position; if too late, the opponent may counterattack
instead of defending.
At the same time, the success of a reducing manoeuvre is determined
by where you choose to reduce and by the overall state of the game. If
you miss the vital point, so far from achieving your objective, you may
become subject to an attack; if you go wrong in your evaluation of the
overall position, you may miss the decisive moment or have your lead
upset.
From the point of view of the player whose moyo is being reduced,
you have to judge where to obtain compensation for the interference
with the expansion of your moyo. If you make the wrong decision, you
may give the opponent more profit than he deserves. The success or
failure of a reduction depends upon the evaluation of time, place, and
overall position. To keep the loss suffered from a reduction to a minimum, you have to devise the most appropriate defence.
Dia. 27. White 1 is the key point for reducing: it stops Black from
expanding his moyo by jumping to 5. If Black 2, White 3: White keeps
one step ahead, so he is
in no danger of being
attacked. Since the marked white stone is not at
'a', White does not appreciably weaken his own
position on the side.
Instead
Dia. 27
Dia, 28. A move like 1 will get White into trouble, as it invites Black
to attack with 2 and 4. However, playing 1 at 3 would let Black secure
a large territory with 'a'.
How, then, does one establish the vital point for reducing?
-16
Dia. 28
The vital points for reducing moves can be categorized according to
their locations in the corners and on the sides and also according to the
criteria of shape.
Reducing moves are most often played on the side; moreover, they
are usually directed against the opponent's extensions along the third
line. This is because the third line is the key line for extensions; the aim
of reducing is to prevent the opponent from proceeding to the next
stage in the formation of a moyo, namely, making a jump towards the
centre.
Dia. 29. White 'a', preventing Black from jumping to the same point,
is the vital point for reducing. White 'b' and 'c' are points with a directional bias, so the choice
of these moves would be
determined by the location of Black's moyo.
White would only attach
at 'd' in special cases, as
that move makes it easy
for Black to counterattack.
Dia. 29
Depending on the position, moves at 'e' and 'f' are also possible.
Dia. 30. (next page) If the opponent's extension is on the fourth line,
an invasion rather than a reduction is more likely to be called for. Even so,
when the opponent has a large, box-like moyo, you may have no choice
-17-
Dia. 30
When the opponent has a deep moyo you may have to make a high
move, reducing from 'midair' the kind of move professionals refer to
as 'one's best guess' (see Section 9, Chapter 2). However, most reducing
moves are aimed at an extension by the opponent. The fighting these
moves start is analysed in Chapters 2 to 4.
The basic principles of reducing moves in the corner are exactly the
same as those on the side. For example, in Dia. 31 both White 'a' and
'b' treat the marked black stone as a third-line stone, and the same can
be said for White 'c', which strikes at the shoulder of the stone below.
Dia. 31
Dia. 32
Dia. 32. When the marked black stone is on the fourth line, White 'a'
or 'b' would let Black take too much territory. White usually plays at
'c', hoping to be able to exploit Black's open position on the side, White
of course varies his approach depending on whether there is a white or
black extension in the neighborhood, but if you bear in mind that an
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invasion has the same value as a reducing move, there is no need to insist
on making a reducing move.
Even when playing in the centre, the same points may be valid for a
reduction when one is concerned with a solitary opposing stone. To wit
Dia. 33. In confronting the marked black stone, White 'a', 'b',and
'c' are the vital points for reducing, just as they would be if the black
stone were on the side. However, when the moyo is of this scale, White
'd' to 'g' are also worth considering. The vital points for an invasion are
very limited, but in contrast there are a large number of possible reducing moves; moreover, as long as you don't go in too far, no reducing
move is going to be a
fatal mistake. However,
the feature of the reducing move is that you will
be able to evaluate it
quantitatively and judge
whether it was the most
appropriate move in the
light of the overall position.
Dia. 33
When the opponent has a deep moyo, the question of depth takes
precedence over finding the vital point. If you go in too deep, you will
come under attack; too shallow and you help the opponent secure
enough territory to upset the territorial balance and spoil your game.
Dia. 34. White 1 is too
deep. When Black plays
on top at 2. White will
get a bad result even if he
lives.
Dia. 34
-19-
Dia. 35. When the opponent has no particular weakness in his moyo,
the safety zone ends with the outer rim of his moyo, that is, the line
linking the two marked
stones. However, if a
black answer at 'a' is going to put White behind
in territory, he has to
take the plunge and invade, attaching at 'b', for
example, rather than reducing.
Dia. 35
Dia. 36. From the point of view of shape, White 'a' becomes the vital
point when White has the
marked stone close up to
the marked black stone.
Even without the marked
white stone, 'a' will often
be the vital point, seeing
that Black does not have
a tight connection. Similarly Dia. 36
Dia. 37. White 'a' is the vital point vis-a-vis the marked black stone,
but if there is no need
for White to go in so deep,
he can treat the black
stone like one on the third
line and reduce with 'b'
or 'c'. When Black's moyo
is located on the left side,
'd', 'e', and 'f' become
the vital points.
Dia. 3 7
-20-
Dia. 39
Priority in reducing
Priority is, of course, determined by the whole board, but as an aid
in making up your mind, it may help to learn how to evaluate relative
size in the local context.
First, what is the scale of the moyo or territory the opponent will
get if you don't reduce?
Dia. 40. (next page) White 1 obviously becomes a much bigger move
if Black has a stone at 'a'. Needless to say, the value of 1 changes again
if there is a white or a black stone at 'b'. In other words, the size of a
reducing move depends not just on the size of the enemy moyo being
reduced but also on the moyos in the background.
The next factor determining the size of a reducing move is the value
of the follow-up moves it creates for you or, conversely, the follow-up
aims it creates for the opponent.
-21 -
Dia. 40
Dia. 41. White 1 not only limits the size of Black's bottom moyo but
also provides a foothold for invading Black's position on the right side.
If Black had a stone at 'a', meaning that White had nothing to aim at
there, the value of White 1 would be greatly reduced, for then it would
only affect the bottom.
Moreover, if White had a
moyo around 'b', provoking Black 2 and 4 would
be a minus, as Black
could then aim at plunging in on the left. In that
case, White 1 would
clearly be too deep.
Dia. 41
Another factor affecting the value of reducing moves is the relative
thickness (strength) and thinness (weakness) of the neighbouring positions. White 1 in Dia. 43 is much more severe than White 1 in Dia. 42.
The presence of the marked white stone in Dia. 42 might seem irrelevant
at present, but it will turn out to have a bearing on the problem if
White 1 comes under attack.
In conclusion, however-, one must repeat that the key factor determining the suitability of a reducing move is the whole-board position.
-22
Dia. 42
Dia. 43
Making preparations for reducing
In the basic sequence of fuseki operations, reducing moves are preceded by checking extensions (tsume, i.e. extensions that check extensions by the opponent). At that stage, you need to start mapping out
your strategy and to decide whether you are going to aim next at
reducing or invading.
Dia. 44. If White
makes the conservative
extension to 1, he is
clearly aiming at the
shoulder hit at 'a'. If he
played 'a' after extending
to 'b', Black would push
up at 'c', whereupon
White 'b' would become
a bad move too close to
Dia. 44
2 3
a strong enemy position. Furthermore, White 1 has the effect of making Black 'd' less attractive for Black; in contrast, if White 1 were at 'b',
Black 'd' would have good follow-up moves, such as jumping sideways
to 'e' and invading at 'f'. The conservative extension of 1 makes these
moves uninviting for Black.
Dia. 45. White 1 aims
at invading at 'a'. If
Black subsequently expands his position with
2, White either competes
territorially with 'b' or
reduces from a different
direction with 'c'.
Dia. 45
Before reducing, you may want to make preparatory manoeuvres to
make the reduction most effective. In Dia. 46, beginning with the
shoulder hit at 3 is bad;
Black builds thickness by
pushing up at 'a'. However, if White first forces
with 1, strengthening his
corner, then 3 is good.
Black 'a' now would
probably make Black
overconcentrated.
Dia. 46
There are also standard probes that one can play.
Dia. 47. White 1 is a typical probe (see Enclosure Josekis, page 2).
White intends to switch elsewhere, but first he wants to see how Black
responds, so that he can decide whether to aim at reducing or invading
later on. If Black 'a', White is satisfied with getting 'b' for later; he would
probably stop worrying about the black moyo and switch to 'c', strengthening his position there.
-24-
If Black answers 1 at 'b', the hane at 'a' becomes possible; that makes
it easy to invade at 'e', so White can switch to 'd'.
If Black answers 1 at 'f', then White can use the contact play at 'g'
to reduce Black's moyo;
if instead at 'h', White
crosscuts at 'a', setting
up various forcing moves.
Naturally White has to
watch the timing of 1; if
he gets it wrong, he just
helps the opponent to
strengthen himself.
Dia. 47
Dia. 48. The 3-3 contact play is another well-known probe. If
Black 'a', White aims next
at 'b' or 'c'; if Black 'b',
White will be satisfied
with having created the
aji of White 'd', so he
will now focus on the
side, reducing at 'e', for
example.
Dia. 48
There are many other possible probes. For example, you can peep
at the opponent's weak points to see whether he connects or counterattacks, or you can play on the outer margin of his moyo to see whether
he defends it or counterattacks.
Whatever you do, you should at least investigate the possibility of
making preliminary manoeuvres or playing suitable probes in order to
maximize the efficiency of your reducing moves. Just because it is safe,
a reducing move should not be played too facilely.
Conclusion
To round off our discussion, let's review the main points.
First, it is only natural to observe the basic fuseki priority of playing
extensions and checking extensions (tsume) first; if the opponent has
defects in his defences, you have to decide whether to invade or reduce
-25-
-26-
What action should White take against the black moyo? At this stage,
with the game so open, there are plenty of possibilities, including the
extension to 'a', the approach move at 'b', and the reducing moves 'c',
'd', and 'e'. Here we will limit the discussion to 'c', the deepest reducing
move; we will deal with 'd' and 'e' later, but here let's just note that
these two moves would also aim at expanding White's own moyo.
Basic Diagram
Joseki 1
White 1 aims not just at reducing the bottom area but also at holding
Black's right-side moyo in check. When Black has just one solitary stone
being attacked, he first pushes up at 2 to make White heavy, then plays
4 to stop him from getting a base on the side. This is the set pattern.
Extending at 3 gives
White a foothold for attacking the right side, so
he is content to backtrack with 5, which helps
his left-side moyo, or alternatively to jump towards the centre with 'a'
or 'b'.
Joseki 1
The subsequent fighting depends on the overall position. Black must
strive to make the three white stones a target for attack; for his part,
White will be very happy if he can make them operate as thickness.
-28
Dia. 1
Dia. 2
Dia.3
Dia. 4
-29-
Dia.5
Dia. 6
Dia. 7
Dia. 8
-30-
Dia. 9
Dia. 10 (a fight)
If White immediately
blocks at 2, then the
problem is whether Black
should start a fight by
cutting at 3.
Dia. 10
Joseki 2
The aim of White 3 is
to settle the group (i.e.
get sabaki) as lightly as
possible. Black usually
hanes in at 4 quite early,
thus settling the shape.
Playing 7 at 'a', 'b', or
'c' is also conceivable.
Joseki 2
The main point of contention after the joseki is whether Black can
turn the white group into a target for attack or whether White can use
it as thickness. In the local context, Black continues after 7 by linking
up to the right with 'd' or by developing new territory with 'e' or by
competing for centre influence with 'f'. If Black does nothing here,
White can continue by building a base with 'd' or by taking command
in the centre with 'f'; alternatively, he might split open the right side
by invading. Compared to Joseki 1, this pattern has both good points
and drawbacks.
-31 -
Dia. 12
Dia. 13
Dia. 14
-32-
Dia. 15
Dia. 16 ( thick but.. .)
Cutting at 1 is about
the best move Black has,
but White now breaks
into the right side. The
question is how much
use Black can make of his
centre thickness.
Dia. 16
Dia. 17 (crawling)
In most cases, crawling
at 2 is submissive and insipid. Black may connect
underneath with 4, but
he gets a low position and
bad aji. He can no longer
expect to be able to
attack White.
Dia. 17
Dia. 18 (just territory)
If Black keeps crawling
with 1 and 3, his territory
is unimpressive. Now it
is White who builds thickness.
Dia. 18
-33-
Dia. 21
Joseki 1
Black 2 is the standard reply to White 1. If
White 3, Black does his
best to avoid becoming
overconcentrated
by
moving out with 4, which
makes correct shape.
Playing 2 or 4 at 'a' would
Joseki 1
make Black overconcentrated, as the space between the two-stone wall
and the marked stone would be too narrow.
White moves out with 5: he has his eye on an invasion of the right
side. Depending on the surrounding positions, White might also play
5 at 'b'.
Black usually switches elsewhere next, as White 5 is considered as
concluding the joseki, but continuing here immediately by harrying the
white group might be a powerful strategy. Territorially speaking, Black
'c' is a big move, as it links up the black groups and stops White from
getting a base; however, Black's group is already settled, thanks to the
marked stone, so linking up a safe group would be a little slack.
Dia. 1 (spoiling White's shape)
One standard procedure for attacking White
is to try to spoil his shape
with 1 etc. The aim is to
make White heavy and to
reinforce the right side
during the course of the
subsequent fighting.
Dia. 2 (steady)
Black 1, at the 'ear' of
White's shape, is a vital
point: it menaces White's
connection. If White defends at 'a', Black continues with 'b'.
Dia. 2
-36-
Dia. 5
Dia. 6 (light connection)
Black 1 and 3 also make Black overconcentrated, so they are not to
be recommended. White
defends lightly with 4 or
'c' or 'd', assuming that
the Black 'a'-White 'b'
exchange may be made
at any time. If Black
omits 3, White 3 makes
White strong.
Dia. 6
-37-
Joseki 2
Even when Black has
the two-space extension,
2 and 4 still make good
shape. If White 5, Black
jumps to 6. White 5 aims
at reducing Black's liberties; jumping to 'a' in-
Joseki 2
slack. The hane at 'b' instead of 6 would, in most cases, just help White
to strengthen himself with 'c'.
Compared to Joseki 1, this joseki takes more territory and scoops
out White's base; the drawback is that Black cannot expect to mount
much of an attack on White later. Even if White tenukis after 6, Black
has no severe follow-up. However, White can make good shape with
White 'd', Black 'e', White 'f'. If White is feeling really aggressive, he
might stake the game on an invasion of the right side instead.
Dia. 11 (preparing for an aerial attack)
Pushing up an extra move with 1 before sliding to 3 is also a powerful
strategy: Black is aiming
at attacking on top at 'a'.
This threat may persuade
White to jump to 4. As
always, the drawback for
Black is that the marked
stone is overconcentrated.
Dia. 11
Dia. 12
-39-
Dia. 14
Dia. 1
Dia. 2
-42-
Joseki 1
Black 2, which follows the proverb, 'answer the capping move with
the knight's move', is the standard answer. Black of course has to
analyse the neighbouring positions or the overall position when deciding
whether to play 2 on the right or on the left. The following are some
of the criteria influencing his choice:
play on the side where you can take the bigger or the more secure
territory;
play on the side where it would hurt you more to have the opponent
drive a wedge through your territory;
play on the side where you want to develop towards the centre.
Experience in actual play is the only way to develop your ability to
make the correct decision.
Black 2 aims at attacking White with 'a' or at
taking territory with 'b'.
White's follow-up is to
break up Black's territory
with 'c' or to emphasize
the centre with 'd' or 'e'.
Joseki 1
He could also flee lightly with 'f', postponing his decision about what
to do at the bottom. We shall examine all these options in order.
Dia. 3 (shallow)
If Black has solid neighbouring positions, White
will be satisfied to force
once more with 1 before
dropping back into the
centre with 3. In some
Dia. 3
positions, this might be sufficient to maintain overall balance.
Dia. 4 (the ladder?)
White plunges boldly
into the side with a view
to keeping the black groups
to the left and to the right
separated. If the ladder is
Dia. 4
unfavourable for White, then Black has the threat of 'a'.
-43-
Dia. 5 (invading)
White 1 is the correct
point at which to invade.
Black 2 is the standard
response. If White continues with 3, however,
his group becomes heavy
after Black 4.
Dia. 5
Dia..6 (extending sideways)
If White 3, Black 4
spoils White's shape. If
White 'a' next, Black
plays 'b'.
Dia. 6
Joseki 2
Once having attached at 3, White must continue with the crosscut of
5, which is a tesuji for settling a group. This enables White to fix up his
shape; the drawback is that Black also strengthens himself. Ideally, White
would like to play 3 and 5 after making some preparatory manoeuvres
to lead Black into an overconcentrated shape.
Black 6 is the usual
answer to 5. White's sacrifice gives him two forcing
moves at 7 and 9, so next
he can fix up his shape
with 11. There are, of
course, other ways of
connecting besides 11,
and on occasion White
Joseki 2
might even switch elsewhere.
There are other sequences, but this is the most basic pattern. However, the result to 11 is ideal for White, so Black might make one of the
various counterattacks available to him along the way.
-44-
Dia. 7
Dia. 9 (unattractive)
The atari on top at 1
is not appealing. Even if
White just submissively
follows orders with 2 and
4, Black loses too much
territory.
Dia. 10 (reverting to
Dia. 8)
White can also counter
with 2, aiming at the result in Dia. 8. If Black 3
at 4, White is happy to
extend at 3. Note, however, that playing 2 at 4
would give Black the option of connecting at 2.
Dia, 10
-45-
-46-
Dia. 18
-47-
Dia. 19 (crude)
In most cases, cutting
bluntly with 2 and 4 does
not work well. White
builds a base with 5 and
7: he is taking territory
during the course of the
fight, so his prospects
look good.
Dia. 20 (frontal clash)
Resisting directly with
1 and 3 is just what Black
wants. White's moves are
too blunt.
Dia. 22 (tenuki)
If the centre takes
priority, Black may ignore 1 to attack at 2. If
Black 2 is a good move,
that means that White 1
was a bad strategic mistake.
-48-
-49-
-51 -
Joseki 3
Black attaches at 2
when he wants to expand
his bottom territory on
this side. He accepts that
White is going to get
centre influence.
White 3 is the standard
answer. Black 4 reinJoseki 3
forces the bottom area and forces White to defend at 5. Later Black can
enlarge his territory with 'a' or secure the bottom with 'b', giving White
carte blanche in the centre.
If Black does nothing, White can make a thick shape with 'c'. He can
also aim at reducing the bottom area by attaching at 'd'. The point to
bear in mind about this joseki is that Black attaches at 2 when he
doesn't mind letting White strengthen himself in the centre.
Dia. 35 (simple expansion)
Black 1 and 3 build
territory on the 6th line,
but White gets so much
extra influence that this
might not be profitable.
If playing Black 5 at 'a'
is feasible, White will
keep 4 in reserve.
Dia. 36 (good shape)
White 4 and 6 make
good shape. In this position, however, White 4 at
'a' feels right.
Dia. 36
-52-
Dia. 37(seizingsente)
The two-step hane of
1 and 3 is an aggressive
measure to take sente.
White 4 and 6 are good
style, but Black achieves
his aim with 7 and 9.
However, White builds
thickness, so the evaluation of this result depends on the overall
position.
Dia. 38 (protecting territory)
The exchange of Black
1 for White 2 is also common. Black 1 at 'a' or 'b'
is also possible.
Dia. 39 (diagonal connection)
White 1 works better
in the centre, though it
weakens the threat of
White 'a'. The continuation to 10 is possible,
in which case White 11
looks good.
Dia. 40 (large-scale)
Black 2 is just right
for defending the side.
White will aim at attacking with White 'a', Black
'b', White 'c' later.
-53-
Dia. 41 (checkingBlack's
expansion)
White extends at 1 if
he wants to stop Black
from expanding the bottom area, but then Black
2 is severe. If fighting
with White 'a' is not
feasible, then White 1 is
probably dubious.
Dia. 42 (compliant)
Black 2 is just what
White wants. White makes
light shape with 3 for an
ideal result.
Dia. 43 (extending sideways)
The merits of Black 4
are
determined
by
whether or not White 7
is feasible.
Dia. 44 (what Black
wants)
If White has to compromise with 1, Black extends at 2 and is satisfied.
If White wants sente, he
plays 1 at 3, followed by
Black 1, but then the
bottom becomes so large
that the value of sente
is diminished.
-54-
Dia. 45 (passive)
If Black continues
after Dia. 43 by defending at 1, White is more
than satisfied. In most
cases, White 2 rather
than 'a' will be the proper reinforcement.
Dia. 46 (strengthening
White)
Black can take territory with 1 and 3, but
strengthening White like
this is reprehensible.
Black cannot expect to
do well in the fight
when he cuts at 5. The
aji of White 'a' remains
a nuisance.
Dia. 47(challenge)
Will cutting immediately work? When White
counters with 2 and 4,
Black resists with 5 and
7. The result to 11 is
satisfactory,
providing
the ladder works.
Dia. 48 (centre fight)
If White 2, Black
reduces his liberties by
connecting at 3. Everything will be decided by
the centre fight.
-55-
Dia. 49 (avalanche)
Sliding into the bottom area with 3 and 5
effectively reducesBlack's
territory. White is happy
with his shape after 7. If
Black 6 at 'a', White plays
'b', Black 6, White 7.
White 7 at 'c' is bad because Black 7 makes his
position cramped.
Dia. 50 (most unreasonable)
Cutting at 1 is unreasonable. White can
settle himself with 2 and
4 (or 2 at 'a') regardless
of the ladder relationship.
Dia. 51 ( hane on top)
Black 1 leads to a difficult fight after 2 and 4.
If the fight is unreasonable for White, an alternative is to make shape
with 2 at 3, Black 2,
White 'a'.
Dia. 52 (counters to the
contact play)
White can choose between 'a' and 'b' when
Black attaches at 2, but
before making up his
mind one feasible strategy
is to do something in the
bottom right corner with
a view to making the
hane at 'c'.
-56-
Joseki 4
The aim of thrusting
up at 2 is to secure the
profit at the bottom and
to deny White the chance
to create any aji. White's
only option is to extend
in either direction, but
then Black will play 4
Joseki 4
and 6 on the other side.
In this shape, there is nothing tricky that White can try. Locally, his
continuations are to split open the bottom with 'a' or 'b', to push along
on top with 'c', or to reinforce his shape with 'd'.
Black 2 is not very aggressive, however, so there is a strong possibility that White will ignore it and switch elsewhere. In this position,
for example, a good plan would be for White to invade at 'e' the instant
Black starts to surround the bottom territory.
Thrusting at 2 is not a move one plays unless one has to.
Dia. 53 (very submissive)
If Black 1, White
jumps to 2. Black may
secure the bottom territory, but White gets centre influence.
Dia. 54
-57 -
-58-
-59-
-60-
Dia. 67(counter-cap)
If Black has strong
neighbouring positions,
he may return tit for tat
by capping at 2. In some
positions he might even
have a chance of capturing White.
Dia. 68 (attacking from
the outside)
Black might also ignore the bottom in favour
of building strength in
the centre by attacking
with moves like 2.
Dia. 69 (where to defend)
The capping move hits
at the centre of a moreor-less symmetrical shape,
so the defender is faced
with the problem of deciding which side to
answer on. With the
knight's move we enunciated some principles for
Dia. 69
the defender: surround the larger or more secure territory, leave open
the side where a splitting move won't hurt you, play on the side where
you want to move out into the centre, etc. (see page 43).
The problem in the position here is that the position is not perfectly
symmetrical. Black's answer will have a big effect on the development
of the game, so we should review the possibilities. A further complication is that one has to take into account the subsidiary aims of the
reducing move, such as reinforcing the opponent's position, preparing
for an attack, and so on. These aspects will be analysed in detail in
Chapter 5, but here we can look at the basic points.
-61 -
Dia, 74 (attaching)
Black can also take
sente with 2 and 4, then
defend at 6. However,
the overall picture is not
so interesting for Black:
White builds centre thickness and continues at 7.
Dia. 75 (attaching on the
other side)
If Black 2 and 4 on
this side, White should
extend at 5. If Black
cuts at 'a', White sacrifices with White 'b' to
Black 'e', then invades
at 'f'.
Dia. 76 (thrusting up)
If Black 2, then White
has to choose which side
he wants to play on. The
left side looks bigger, so
White 3 is correct. White
waits for Black to surround territory with 4
and 6, then invades at 9.
Dia. 77 (giving up the
right)
If White 3, Black
abandons any idea of
turning the bottom right
corner into territory (because 3 has limited its
potential). Black 6 at 'a'
also looks good.
Dia. 77
-63-
-65-
-71 -
Dia. 2
-72-
Joseki
The standard counter
for frustrating White's
plan is the shoulder hit at
2. If White 3, Black can
choose between 'a' and 4,
but
extending
into
White's moyo with 4 is in
the spirit of 2 and is the
Joseki
standard move. White 5 builds central influence and relieves the pressure
on his group; in this position, Black might perhaps defend at 6 next.
The aim of playing Black 4 at 'a' would be to make miai of the twostep hanes on either side of White's two stones: if White 'b', Black 'c',
and vice versa. The drawback is that Black is going out of his way to
help White build influence. That is not very appealing in a position like
this, in which Black has a star-point stone in the bottom right corner:
after Black 'a', White 'b', Black 'c', entering the corner at 'd' would be
perfect for White.
Note that if White plays 5 at 'b', Black hanes at 'e'.
Dia. 3 (plunging in)
If White wants to invade, 1 is correct shape.
When Black pushes up
with 2 and 4, the question
arises of how effectively
the players can utilize
their respective influence,
but in the local context
White can easily settle
his group.
Dia. 4 (push and cut)
Black has the frightening counter of 2 and 4. In
most cases, White will be
forced into a disadvantageous fight.
-73-
Dia. 5 (tenuki)
Since White has no
really severe follow-up to
1, Black could placidly
defend elsewhere, at 2,
for example. White then
either uses 1 as a foothold for breaking into
the right side or sets
about taking control of
the centre.
Dia. 6 (another tenuki)
In some positions, extending to 2 might be
quite adequate. Giving
the opponent a chance to
tenuki is the drawback
of 1.
Dia. 7 (an example)
In this professional
game, Black answered 1
at 2. White played 1 because of his judgement
that in this position
White 'a' would lead to
a tough fight.
Dia. 8 (continuation)
White 1 to 5 followed.
White
5 not only
strengthens the centre
but also aims at 'a'.
Dia. 8
-74-
6. The Ear
Basic diagram
-75-
-78-
Joseki 1
Black 2, above all else,
keeps things simple; it is
also aggressive, so we can
consider it the standard
reply. In this position,
however, White has a
severe follow-up at 3,
which splits Black into
Joseki 1
two and makes full use of the marked stone. After 7, Black 'a' through
'e' would probably follow; whether that is playable for Black can only
be decided on the basis of an assessment of the overall position.
Note that jumping to 5 is a crucial move; if instead White plays at 7,
Black might choose not to push up at 6. White 5 makes Black 6 mandatory because White 6 next would be such good shape. At first glance,
White 7 at 'f' might seem lighter, but actually it would make White too
thin: his shape would crumble after Black 'g'.
Dia. 3 (dubious)
White 3 is dubious
when the marked black
stone is in place. Black
gets excellent shape with
4 and 6.
Dia. 4 (playing lightly)
In cases like this, capping at 3 may be an appropriate strategy. The
12 exchange is a gain
for White, provided that
it has no major negative
effect on White's position on the right side.
Dia. 4
-79
Joseki 2
The aim of Black 2 is
to make White heavy so
that Black can attack him
later. However, in this
position, with the marked
black stone isolated,
Black's strategy may not
be as effective as he
Joseki 2
might wish.
If Black 4, White must turn at 5 or he will not be able to play strongly
in the continuation. As a rule, Black 6 and White 7 could be expected
next. In the local context, the marked white stone is working well and
Black looks like coming under attack, but in the overall context this
way of playing might be feasible for Black.
Note that pushing an extra space with 4 at 5 makes it more difficult
for Black to get a good result: White simply extends at 'a', weakening
the marked black stone.
Dia. 5 (a risky forcing
move)
If Black can play the
forcing move of 4, then
connecting at 6 will be
just right. However, there
is a danger that White
will counterattack at 'a'
with 5.
Dia. 6 (quasi-joseki)
Black 4 is a little
timid, but it may prove
to be effective. It sets up
the connection with 6. If
next White 'b', aiming at
'a', Black plays 'c'.
-80-
Dia. 7 (concentrating on
shinogi)
If Black has played
the marked stone, then
White does not mind
solidifying Black's position. After Black 4 or 'a',
White could move out
with 5 and 7. If next
Black 'b', White plays 'c'.
Dia. 8 (White dodges)
Dodging to 3, inviting
Black 4, is a light move.
If Black takes further
action here, he will push
up at 'a', leading to
White 'b', Black 'c'.
Dia. 9 (counter-hane)
White may counter
with 3 in an attempt to
burrow under Black's
position. Black must
answer with care: 4 here
is very submissive.
Dia. 10 (the cut)
Blocking at 1 defends
the corner more effectively, but then White
can atari at 2, giving
Black an inferior result
in the centre.
-81 -
-82
Dia. 15 (submissive)
Black 2 is submissive.
White falls back to 3 and
is very satisfied.
Dia. 16 (splitting Black)
White could also resort
to strong-arm tactics, separating the black stones
with 3. Giving way with
2 has only given Black
bad aji.
Joseki 3
Black 2 is a safetyfirst move designed to
link up Black's stones,
White will get thickness,
but Black will secure
profit. White naturally
blocks at 3, so Black
cuts at 4; he then
pushes up at 6, following
the proverb, 'push on the
side you cut'. Black's
aim is to make shape up
to 12.
Joseki 3
White of course expected this. He builds centre thickness and still
has some aji left on the side, not to mention the still-remaining aji of the
3 - 3 invasion, so he does not mind letting Black solidify himself.
This pattern has many variations; in particular, there are many pitfalls for Black. Considering that the initiative for playing these variations
lies on White's side, Black has to take a careful look at the overall
position.
-83-
-84-
Dia. 5 (ponnuki)
Using the atari of 2 to
split Black is not worth
it, as Black gets too
much thickness.
Dia. 7
Dia. 8 11: ko
-85 -
Dia. 12
-86-
Joseki 4
White 9 makes miai
of pushing through at 10
and capturing two stones
with 11. This reverses the
result in Joseki 3: now
Black gets thickness and
White profit.
Black 10 at 11 incurs
Joseki 4
a major loss: White 10, Black 13, White 12. Connecting at 10 to set up
the squeeze with 12 etc. is the key point of this variation. Playing the
second atari at 14 before pressing at 16 is also important; playing 14
at 18 immediately is not good enough, as it has little effect on the
marked white stone.
Black has lost all his side territory, but in compensation he has built
up powerful centre influence and has also struck a severe blow against
White's right-side position, so he has no reason to be dissatisfied with
the trade.
Dia. 13 (after the joseki)
Black continues with
the throw-in at 20, then
hanes at 22. Attacking
White by playing 22 at
'a' is also good, but not
22 at 'b', as White would
ignore it.
Dia. 14 (spiral ladder)
Bear in mind that if
Black has the marked
stone in place, he can get
a ladder by playing 14 in
Joseki 4 at 1 here.
-87-
8. Attaching on Top
Basic diagram
Moves like White 1
force the opponent's
hand and can create
something
out
of
nothing. The aim may be
to play a ladder block, to
make a diversionary attack, to play a probe or
Basic Diagram
to reduce a moyo: the possibilities are varied. This contact tesuji has
a broad range of applications, but here we will restrict ourselves to its
function as a combined probe and reducing move.
In the position in the diagram, White can easily aim not only at both
33 invasions but also at an invasion of the bottom. The drawback is
that if he lays waste to one part of Black's position, the remainder
will be solidified. White 1 aims, as far as possible, at reducing that
drawback.
Dia. 1 (strengthening the
rest)
If, for example, White
invades at 1, Black takes
sente with 4 and 6 and
switches to 8, Alternatively, he could expand
his position with 'a'
or 'b'.
Dia. 2 (large moyo)
Black could also intercept with 4 and 6, his
aim being to build up a
large moyo at the
bottom.
-88-
Dia. 3 (slack)
With this shape, capping at 1 is slack. Black
may answer by securing
a corner with 2 or 'a'. If
White 3, Black counters
strongly with 4.
Dia. 4 (nothing to aim at)
Attaching at 1 also
just helps Black to secure
a large bottom territory.
There are now no weak
points for White to aim
at.
Joseki
Black answers 1 at 2
or 5, depending on which
side he wants to make
territory. If White 3, he
takes sente with 4 and
switches to 6.
Playing 4 at 'a' just
helps the opponent to
defend a cutting point;
assuming White 5 and
Joseki
Black 4 follow, White then pushes up at 'b', getting much greater
thickness than in the joseki.
After the joseki, White either takes aim at the weak points in Black's
shape at 'c', 'd', and 'e', or builds centre thickness with 'f', depending
on which strategy is called for by the overall position. If Black dislikes
the prospect of 'f', he can exchange Black 'g' for White 'h' before
switching to the corner.
-89-
Dia. 5 (complications)
Black 1 is certainly
the vital point for attack,
so Black might play there
instead of 'a'. However,
White will force with 2
and 4, then jump out
with 6. It's unlikely that
Black could face this
fight with confidence.
Dia. 6 (example from a
game)
The continuation here
has been played. White
makes shape with 1 to 5;
next, 6 and 7 are miai.
Dia. 7 (hurrying out)
White hurries out into
the centre with 1 instead
of 5 in the joseki when
he attaches more importance to the centre
than to the bottom left.
Black defends the corner,
biding his time before
attacking.
Dia. 8 (playing lightly)
White 1 makes light
shape. Black 2 and 4 aim
at attacking White on a
large scale.
-90-
Dia. 4
Dia. 5
-94-
Reference Figure 2
If Black plays 17 at
'a', the marked stone becomes a very slack move,
but if Black blockades
White with 'b', the cutting
point at 'c' becomes a
burden. On top of that,
giving White the next
move is very painful in
the context of the competition between the
white moyo on the top
left and the black moyo
at the bottom. The idea
behind Black's strategy
Reference Figure 2
with 17 is that if he builds up Black's moyo while at the same time reducing White's, the cutting point at 'c' will be reduced to the status of
a minor defect.
Dia, 9 (ladder block and reducing move combined)
The usual move when one wants to apply pressure to a stone on the
third line and expand
one's own moyo is the
knight's move of 1. If
White 2, Black further expands his moyo with 3,
but in this position a reducing move at 4 will be
ideal for White, as it sets
up a ladder block for
when White attacks at 'a'.
In effect, what Black does
with 17 in Reference
Figure 2 is to play first at
3 in this diagram, his aim
being to come back to 'b'
if White answers at 2.
Dia. 9
9 6 -
Dia. 11
-97-
Reference Figure 3
I naturally answered
with 18 and 20, moving
in the direction of Black's
moyo. Blocking White's
path with 21 is also
natural. If next White
goes for profit with 'a',
Black's moyo will become
a real threat with 'b'. This
is White's chance to reduce. What looks best?
Reference Figure 3
Dia. 12 (mutual reduction)
Playing 20 in Reference Figure 3 at 1 here
is not interesting, as it
provokes Black 2. White
naturally continues with
3 and 7, but at this stage
Black's moyo is still so
low that White can't
damage it badly, while
Black 8 not only lays
waste to the left side but
also threatens White's
thin position at the top.
Dia. 12
-98-
Reference Figure 4
My invasion at 22 was
too deep. This game
shows how hard it is to
make one's 'best guess'.
When Black attacks at 23,
White has to escape towards the right, as that is
the only direction that is
open, but the marked
black stone lying in wait
promises to make things
a little difficult for him.
When you consider that
Black has the threat of
'a', it's clear that White
has missed the central
point of Black's moyo.
Reference Figure 4
Dia. 13
-99-
Reference Figure 5
I intended to settle
myself lightly with 24,
which made miai of 'a'
and 'b', but instead Black
attacked me on a large
scale and made me heavy.
Preferable would have
been attacking at 'c', aiming at making shape
quickly with Black 'd',
White'e', Black'f', White
'g\ If Black answers
White 'c' at h, White
jumps to 1' and will
probably have no trouble
settling the group.
Reference Figure 5
Dia. 14 (a severe attack)
If White plays 1 without making the White 'a'
Black 'b' exchange,
Black will launch a severe
attack with 2. White 5
runs into the marked
stone, so White's position
is cramped. Of course,
the whole white group
will not be captured, but
if Black strengthens his
centre position, Black 'c'
will turn the right side
into a large moyo that
it will be difficult for
White to touch.
Dia. 14
-100-
Reference Figure 6
When Black blocks
White's path with 25,
White has to scramble ignominiously to settle his
group. I should at least
have played 26 at 'a' or
'b', being prepared to
make a furikawari (exchange). Black 27 secures
the bottom area while attacking White. Black
drives White out and in
the process also starts securing the right side.
Black is doing well.
Reference Figure 6
Dia. 15 (an oversight)
I thought that I could
attack with 1, but if Black
resists with 2 and 4, the
best White can do is to
play 5 etc. The position
becomes simplified and
White loses any chances
of winning. If Black 2 at
'a', White gets an ideal result with 'b', but expecting this showed how selfindulgent my analysis
was. Coming on top of
my mistake with the reducing move, this made
my disadvantage in the
game decisive.
Dia. 15
-101 -
CHAPTER THREE
Reducing Corner Enclosures
In principle, the technique of reducing is the same whether it is directed against the side (that is, an extension from a corner enclosure) or
against the corner (that is, an enclosure), but there are enough differences between the two cases to make it worth devoting a separate chapter to corner reductions.
When we talk of reducing a corner enclosure, we mean of course a
moyo based on a corner enclosure. First of all, we have to choose between invading and reducing; if the latter, we then have to decide
whether to focus on the enclosure itself or on the extension from it.
Finally, we have to search for the weak points in the opponent's position.
Basic Diagram
The same point of 'a' is the vital point for reducing the moyo. In
some positions, the shoulder hits at 'b' and 'c' are also strong moves.
Depending on the overall position, White might choose to focus on the
side, playing 'd' or 'e'; to help him make up his mind between reducing
and invading, he might also play a probe at 'f'. Our analysis will focus
on 'a', 'b', and 'c'.
- 102-
Joseki 1
White strikes a blow at the vital point
with 1. If Black 2, he can cut into the
bottom area with 3 and 5, then make shape
by moving out lightly with 7. White 3
looks crude but is essential: it forces Black
to answer 5 at 6. White 7 is reducing the
side on which Black has defended (with 2);
depending on the position, White might
prefer to focus on reducing the bottom area by moving out with 7 at 'a' or 'b'.
White 'c' is heavy; in most cases, it would
be bad.
Dia. 1 (after the joseki)
Black attacks on a large scale with 1,
inviting 2 so that he can reinforce with 3.
White 2 might seem inefficient, but if
Dia. J
White attaches at 'a' instead, Black's attack gains momentum with 'b'
Dia. 2 (capturing is bad)
If Black 1 and 3, White will be only too
happy to discard his three stones. If you
compare Black's ten points of profit with
White's wall of steel, it's obvious that Black
has lost out badly in the exchange. If Black
tries to be a bit trickier, peeping at 5 with
1, attaching on the outside at 6 is the
tesuji for sabaki. If then Black 3, White
resolutely sacrifices as before, playing 4.
The result is again bad for Black.
Dia. 3 (helping White)
Black's intention in pulling back at 4
might be to avoid playing submissively, but
actually this makes it easier for White to
settle his stones. The defect of 'a' will
always be a burden for Black.
103-
Dia. 16
Joseki 5
The aim of Black 2 is to settle the shape
by putting pressure on White and to secure
the corner profit. Black can answer White 3
aggressively by extending at 4; the best
White can do is to make shape with 5 and 7.
Even if White plays 5 at 6, he can't cut at
'b' after Black 'a', so he has no choice but
to atari at 5 anyway. That being the case,
it's wisest simply to hane at 5 to begin with.
Dia. 17 (depending on circumstances)
Depending on the neighbouring positions, White might try descending at 1.
Black naturally cuts at 2, but if White 3
and 5 give him an uninteresting result, then
he has to reconsider playing 2 in Joseki 5.
Note that if Black had a stone at 'a', White
1 would be dubious, as Black would attack
with 2 at 3.
Dia. 18 (territory on both sides)
In the local context, pulling back at 4 is
submissive, but on occasion it may be
effective, as it secures the corner territory
and makes it difficult for White to invade
on either side. White continues with 'a'
or 'b', neither a very forceful move, but he
has achieved his aim of reducing the moyo.
Dia. 19 (slack shape but. ..)
White 3 makes a slack shape, while 4
makes perfect shape for Black, but even so
it is not out of the question if White wants
to build influence towards the centre. White
develops rapidly with 5, which makes miai
of 'a' and 'b'. This approach emphasizes
the whole over the part, influence over
territory.
-108-
Dia. 30
Joseki 7
Black 2, building a wall with a hole in it,
looks like a strange answer, but actually it
is sometimes an effective way of expanding
Black's bottom moyo. White will force
with 3 and 5, then make shape with 7,
after which Black hopes to be able to solidify the bottom area while continuing his
attack. Black might try to achieve the same
aim by playing 2 at 'a'; if White still plays
3 and 5, Black gets a better result, but the
ominous threat of White 'b' would give
Black very bad aji.
Dia. 31 (concentrating on attack)
The cap at 2 focuses mainly on attack;
if White 'a' after 3 and 5, Black cuts at 'b'.
However, if White reinforces at 'c' instead,
Black will have to add a stone at 'd'.
Dia. 32 (going in deep)
The shoulder hit at 1 makes a deep intrusion into Black's sphere of influence, so
the danger that White will be subjected to
an attack is correspondingly greater. The
usual answer is Black 'a'; Black 'b' aims at
building thickness; Black 'c' expands the
right side; Black 'd' aims primarily at attack. In this pattern, there are no sequences
sufficiently established to be called josekis.
Dia. 33 (low position)
Black 2 and 4 run no risks, but linking
up with such a low position is not satisfactory. White gets a good follow-up for reducing the right side with 5 and 7. Black
may secure profit, but White gets good influence.
- 112-
Dia. 31
Dia. 32
Dia. 33
Dia. 34 (a quasi-joseki)
Instead of 4 in Dia. 33, expanding the
right side with 1 or 'a' seems superior. If
White blocks at 2, Black attacks with 3.
One could call this pattern a quasi-joseki.
Dia. 35 (even more submissive)
White plays 3 when he wants to settle
himself lightly. He is inviting Black to play
4 and 6. This gives White an even more
comfortable result than in Dia. 33. After 8,
White could play 'a' or he could first secure
the safety of his group with 'b', then invade
more deeply at 'c'. Instead of 4, Black
should attack at 'd'.
Dia. 36 (heavy)
Pushing up at 2 is a cumbersome move,
but it's hard for White to ignore it, as
Black 3 next would make good shape. If
White 3, Black plays 4. Black's aim next is
to attack - if White 'a', Black 'b'; if White
'c', Black 'a'. White 'd', making miai of
'c' and 'e', would be one way for White to
settle himself lightly.
Dia. 37 (Black falls behind)
White 3 is a light move and in this case
is clearly superior to the extension at 3 in
Dia. 36. Black will play 4 to forestall White
4 or 'a', but now Black has no severe attack
even if White switches elsewhere. If White
continues here, he will play 'b'; if White
tenukis, one vital point for attacking him is
Black 'c'.
-113-
- 115-
Joseki 1
Black 2 is natural: it secures the corner
profit while building centre influence and
making White heavy. If White 5, Black
hanes at 6 and moves out into the centre
one step ahead of White. However, White
can drive a wedge into the right side with
11, forcing Black 12, then expand his influence at the bottom even further by
pushing up at 'a'. Black 12 is an efficient
answer to 11, but later, after extending
along the side, White can exchange 'b' for
Black 'c', then block at 'd', aiming at
White 'e'.
Dia. 5 (unbearable)
If Black omits 'a', then his corner will
be stripped naked with White 1 and 3.
Black 2 at 3 fails because of White 2, Black
'b', White 'c'.
Dia. 6 (not helping White)
Black 2 is possible, but it is usually considered slack, as it is a little submissive.
White extends to 3, hoping to play 'a' in
sente later. On the right side, White plays
'b', followed by 'c'. However, this strategy
is possible for Black when he does not want
to help White make shape as in Joseki 1.
Dia. 7 (helping White)
Black 2 will probably make it easy for
White to settle himself. The two-step hane
of 3 is good style. If next Black 'a', White
'b', Black 'c', White 'd', then the pattern
more or less reverts to Joseki 1, with the
difference that Black has made the bad exchange of 2 for White 3. If instead Black
Dia. 7
plays 2 at 'c', then his result is even more submissive than Dia. 6.
-116-
Joseki 2
White can play 9 one space closer than
in Joseki 1. This has the merit of reducing
the size of Black's corner territory but the
drawback of being closer to Black's thickness. If White plays 9 after he has pushed
up with 11, then he will be in for a tough
fight when Black counterattacks at 'a'.
After the joseki, White extends along the
Joseki 2
side, then waits for a chance to play White 'b' through 'f'.
Dia, 16 (a sente seki)
The counterattack at 1 is possible even
when the White 'a'Black 'b' exchange
has not been made, but the exchange of 2
for 3 of course loses points for Black. White
gets a seki in sente in the corner, an unbearable result for Black. White could also
attempt to live with White 4 at 7, Black 4,
White 10.
Dia. 17 (a hollow shell)
If Black connects at 3, then attacks at 5,
White easily lives with 6 and 8. White has
not only taken all the corner territory but
also played on the outside, so Black's position is a hollow shell.
Dia. 18 (preparing for the attack)
Building strength on the outside with 5
before attacking is a more effective approach. If White 6, Black 7 now works well.
If White 'a', Black plays 'b'; if instead
White tries to live in the corner with 'c',
Black prevents him from doing so with 'd'.
Consequently, White will have to use 6 to
add a reinforcement in the corner, so Black
will be able to atari at 6. Black loses
Dia. 18
a lot of territory, but his centre thickness is sufficient compensation. If
Black is not happy with this trade, he should follow Joseki 2.
- 119-
Dia. 1
Dia. 1
Dia. 6 (strongest)
Black 1, utilizing the solidity of Black's
corner position to counterattack, offers the
strongest resistance. If White resists strongly
in turn with 2, large-scale moyo warfare
follows. White 2 at 4 is what Black wants:
he collapses when Black connects at 2. If
Black cannot face this fight with confidence, he captures at 4 with 3, then connects the ko in answer to White 3, thus
reverting to Dia. 5; alternatively, he could
cut at 'a' and fight the ko.
Dia. 7 (tenuki)
Ignoring White 1 can work surprisingly
well. Even if White gets another move here,
it has no effect whatsoever on Black's
rock-solid corner.
Dia. 8 (losing points)
To go back a little, answering the probe
with Black 2 loses a lot of points. When
White invades the 33 point with 3, Black
cannot hope to capture him unless he has
exceptional thickness on the outside. Black
4 and 6 are a strong attacking combination,
but White uses the sacrifice of 7 to live up to 15. (Note that if White
played 7 at 13, he would die when Black pulled back at 11.) Except for
when outside influence is the paramount consideration in the overall position, Black 2 is a slack move.
Dia. 9 (living without the support of allies)
Black 2 and 4 give a similar result to the
previous diagram. When White plays 5, Black
cannot hope to kill him. If Black plays 4
at 'a', White lives with 'b' through 'f'. If
Black follows 'a' with the two-step hane of
White 'b', Black 'd', White can go for a
Dia. 9
trade with White 'c', Black 4, White 'g'. In either case, it is painful for
Black to have White live after an unsupported invasion.
-126-
Dia. 11
Joseki 2
Exchanging 1 for 2 before reducing at 3
is another standard technique. If Black 4,
White jumps lightly to 5 and has achieved
his objective. Since 4 helps White to make
shape, Black could also consider playing it
at 'a'. The stone at 1 seems to constitute a
loss for White, but it is not yet completely
dead. For example, White can play a probe
at 'f', utilizing the aji of White 'b', Black 'c',
White 'd', Black 'e'.
Dia. 12 (bad aji)
Jumping to 2 creates bad aji. If Black
'a' after 5, he cannot avoid a ko after White
'b', Black 'c', White 'd'. This is where the
preliminary probe in the corner proves its
value.
-127-
Dia. 12
CHAPTER FOUR
Reducing the Chinese-Style Fuseki
The distinctive feature of the pattern known as the Chinese-style
fuseki is that it does not attach absolute importance to corner enclosures.
This new concept was developed by Yasunaga Hajime and Kajiwara Takeo.
It attracted the interest of the Chinese during a Japanese tour of China,and
from China it was later imported back into Japan, where it enjoyed a boom.
As with the sanren-sei (three star-point stones in a row) pattern, Black
plays first on the large points on the side and tries to use the advantage
of having the first move to establish a lead in the fighting that follows.
However, one of the features of this pattern is that it is not directed exclusively towards influence: the 34 stone in one corner maintains territorial balance. The way fighting develops varies depending on White's
position and in any case Black is playing on a whole-board scale right
from the start, so we cannot expect to find any definitive patterns.
In this chapter, we intend to present a general survey, based on an
examination of professional games, of the most popular and most
researched patterns connected with reducing territory in the Chinesestyle fuseki. The nature of the moyo, of course, changes completely
when Black plays the high move on the side.
Basic Diagram
Dia. 5
Dia. 6
Dia. 15
Dia, 16
Dia. 21 (emphasizing
the bottom)
White can play at 1
if his main concern is
to reduce the bottom
moyo. If Black 2 at 3,
White plays 2: this
would be what White
wants.
Dia. 22 (circumstances
alter cases)
When Black has the
marked stone in place,
White 1 is dubious, as
Black expands his
bottom moyo with 2.
Dia. 21
Dia. 22
Dia. 23
-135-
Dia. 24
Dia. 25
Dia. 26
Dia. 26 (using the peep as a foothold)
In some games, White has crawled at 1 (instead of 5 in Dia. 25) so that
he could use the peep at 3 as a foothold for breaking into the right side.
Dia. 2 7 (playing lightly)
The light reducing
move of 3 has also been
seen. If Black 4 at 'a',
White will switch elsewhere, satisfied with
having played a forcing move.
Dia. 28 (reduce before
invading)
In this game, White
first capped at 3, then
invaded at 5; the presence of the stone at
1 makes this combination possible. The
resulting exchange is even.
Dia. 27
-J36-
Dia. 28
Dia. 29 (frustrating
White's strategy)
In this game, White
intended to switch to
the top if Black
answered 3 at 5, so
Black countered with
a tenuki.
Dia. 30 (the two-space
high approach move)
When White kept
his distance with 1,
Black tried to get an
attack going with 2
and 4.
Dia, 29
Dia. 30
Basic Diagram
Dia. 4
Dia. 5 (crosscut)
White attaches once
at 3, then crosscuts
with 5 and 7 to get
sabaki - this is a
technique invented by
Ishida Yoshio.
Dia. 6 (Black thrusts)
If Black thrusts up
at 1, White makes
shape with 2 and 4.
White could also play
4 at 'a', Black 'b',
White 4; White aims
next at sliding to 'c'.
Dia. 5
Dia. 6
Black 1 at 'b' is just what White wants, as he can atari at 1.
Dia. 7 (counterattack)
If Black counterattacks with 1, White
counters in turn with
2. Territorially, this
seems inadequate for
Black. After Black 7,
White uses the cut at
'a' to settle his group.
Dia. 8 (emphasizing
the centre)
Black's aim with 1
is to confine White to
the corner. In some
positions, this could
Dia. 7 5: connects
Dia. 8
be an effective strategy. White lives in sente in the corner, then switches
to a reducing move.
-139-
Dia. 9 (preventing
sabaki)
The aim of 4 is to
prevent White from
settling his group by
forestalling the contact play at 10. However, Black 8 is slack,
as White settles himself with 9 to 13;
Black should attack at
'a' or 11 instead.
Dia. 10 (the contact
play)
White gets stylish
Dia. 9
Dia. 10
shape if he can make the contact play at 5. In this shape, Black 'a' does
not work.
Dia. 11 (the two-space high approach move)
When Black has
played the high move
(the marked stone),
White will have trouble
settling himself after 1.
Dia. 12 (profit v.
influence)
In this game, the
aim of White 1 was to
build centre influence
while yielding the corner profit to Black.
The precondition, of
course, is that White's
influence works well
on the left.
Dia. 11
- 140-
Dia. 12
-141-
19
(extending
first)
White first extends
to 3, then seeks sabaki
with the tesuji of 9.
This is an effective
strategy. White aims
at invading at 'a'.
Dia. 20 (double knight
moves)
If Black makes a
second knight's move
at 4, White plays
Dia. 19
Dia. 20
lightly with 7 and takes aim at the bottom right corner. When Black
has defended with 6, White seeks a foothold for his invasion at 'a'.
-142-
CHAPTER FIVE
Attack and Defence
Reducing in the context of the overall position
Compared to invasion josekis, the number of reducing josekis is
small and the variations limited. In the context of the whole board,
however, the reverse may be true: there is a wide range of reducing
techniques and the risk of making a mistake in the direction of play
is considerable.
Reducing manoeuvres must be based on a sound assessment of the
overall position, but these manoeuvres are executed in the opening,
when such an assessment is most difficult. Not only do you have to make
an approximate comparison of the size of the territories, you also
have to judge the relative strength and weakness of each player's
groups and evaluate his thickness. Even professionals go astray in trying to juggle all these elements, and assigning numerical values to them
is almost impossible.
That means that, in the final analysis, you have to rely on your
intuition. If we try to explain 'intuition' in words, we run the risk of
losing sight of its real meaning, so in this chapter we will just show
you a large number of examples from professional games in the hope
that you can absorb them visually, not intellectually. If you go wrong
in the overall judgement of a reducing manoeuvre, you can lose one or
two dozen points without even realizing that you are bleeding.
Attack and defence: two sides of the same coin
In view of the fact that the fighting arising from a reduction tends to
spread all over the board, it is difficult to give a systematic presentation.
A reduction on one side is an attack on the other; an attack on one part
of the board is a reduction in another; reducing leads to enclosing; a
ladder break becomes a reduction. There may be times when it is better
not to reduce, other times when an invasion works better.
- 144-
From the viewpoint of the defender, there are times when he has to
attack the reducing stone, others when ignoring it is correct, but the
only way to determine which is which is to look carefully at the whole
board.
The aim of this chapter is to give a synthetic analysis of wholeboard attack and defence focused on reducing manoeuvres. The examples are taken from professional games, but we recommend you to
ignore the names of the players and just try to get a feel for the way
reducing manoeuvres are executed in actual play. In go terms 'intuition'
resolves itself into a feel for the efficiency of the stones one plays.
Reducing, surrounding, attacking, defending all hinge upon this basic
concept of efficiency.
-145-
Relative depth
A difference of one line
turns a good reduction into
a bad one. In Dia. 1, Black
made a deep invasion at 1.
He was aiming at- the contact play at 'a', but when
White attacked with 2 and
4, he found it surprisingly
difficult to settle his group.
The sequence to 10 is good
for White: he has turned
the three black stones into
a target for attack.
Dia. 1
White: Fujisawa Shuko; Black: Rin Kaiho
Dia. 2. Black should
have held back one line
with 1. If you bear in
mind that White's moyo is
open at the sides - Black
can reduce it with 'a' and
'b' there is no need to
invade deeply. Black 1 also
takes aim at White's thin
position, so the proper
answer (honte) for White
is 'c'. Black could now
either go in further with
'd' or drop back to 'e',
satisfied that he has struck
a blow at the core of
White's moyo.
Dia. 2
-146-
A leaning attack
A reducing move usually
has a subsidiary aim, as explained in Chapter One. In
Dia. 1, White forces with 1
to 5, then caps at 7. This
is an efficient sequence; he
is reducing Black's moyo
while also aiming at the
black group on the left.
That group may not be
vulnerable to an immediate attack, but the threat
does place some constraints
upon Black's freedom of
action.
Dia. 1
White: Rin Kaiho; Black: Kato Masao
- 149
Planning a counterattack
One can make either a
direct or an indirect counterattack against a reducing
move. In Dia. 1, Black has
played a probe at 1, then
reduced at 3. White does
not feel like answering at
'a' or 'b', so he wants to
counterattack. If he attacks
directly at 'c', however,
Black will defy him by
jumping to 'd', so White
would only be helping
Black to settle himself.
Dia. 1
White: Ishida Yoshio; Black: Ohira Shuzo
Dia. 2. White 1 threatens
to attack on a large scale.
White 'a' next would be
troublesome, so Black
drops back lightly to 2. If
Black 2 at 'b', the ladder
after White 'c' is bad for
him. White 3 both menaces
the centre and sets up a
squeeze after White 'd'.
Black indirectly reinforces
the centre with 4, whereupon White opens hostilities with 5. In the subsequent fighting, White will
be looking for a chance to
attack in the centre.
Dia. 2
-150-
Dia. 2. Attaching at 3
immediately would have
kept the position more
open. Black will secure his
corner with 4 and 6, but
the result is that White has
extended his moyo along
the bottom and can aim
at expanding further with
Dia. 2
-151-
Dia. 2
-152-
Dia. 1
White: Go Seigen (giving 2 komi); Black:
Ohira Shuzo
Declining to reduce
When you are leading,
doing nothing is sometimes the best policy.
Black 1 in Dia. 1 is an allout move: it reduces White's
moyo at the top while also
aiming at the white groups
on the left side and in the
centre. However, White
seizes the opportunity to
do something in the top
left, sacrificing his centre
stones. This confuses the
issue and throws Black's
lead into doubt.
Dia. 1
White: Magari Reiki; Black: Fujisawa Shuko
Dia. 2
-154-
Dia. 1
Dia, 2
-156-
An overhasty attack
Attacking feels good,
but you run the risk of falling behind in territory.
White 1 in Dia. 1 is a perfect reducing move. Attacking at 2 looks unreasonable: White has no
weak groups in the vicinity,
so Black cannot make a
'leaning' attack. White easily looks after his group,
forcing with 3 to 9, then
making miai of 'a' and 'b'
with 11. White still has the
threat of 'c', so Black cannot single-mindedly conDia. 1
tinue his attack. Black 2 White: Otake Hideo; Black: Kato Masao
was overhasty.
Dia. 2. Black should
defend once at 2: this aims
at attacking at 'a', so it
forces White to do something with his stone. Black
2 is a calm steady move: it
secures profit and aims at
getting the opponent to
create a bigger target for
him to attack. If Black 2
at 'b' in this position,
White 'c' will be severe; if
at Black 'd', White can reduce his territory with 'e',
so 'd' does not accomplish
much.
Dia. 2
-158-
Creating aji
When neither an invasion nor a reducing
move works well, the contact play is a good way of
conjuring something up
out of nothing. When
Black solidly blocks the
way at 1, White cannot
hope to expand his leftside moyo any further, so
he plays a probe at 2. This
exquisite move creates a
lot of aji. If Black 3, White
crosscuts at 4, creating the
dual threats of 'a' and 'b'.
White attaches lightly at 6,
forcing Black 7, then moves
out at 8. He has destroyed
one half of Black's moyo,
Dia. 1
White: Kajiwara Takeo; Black: Shimamura Toshihiro
Dia. 2
-159-
An overplay
There is no need to
make a deep reducing
move when you are ahead.
Black 1 in Dia. 1 is an
overplay; White intercepts
with 2, setting up a splitting
attack on 1 and the black
group below. Black reduces
White's territory with 3 to
7, but he does not secure
a base; when he tries to
escape through the centre,
his group below will immediately suffer. If next
Black 'a', White emphasizes
attack with 'b'.
Dia. 1
White: Takemiya Masaki; Black:
Fujisawa Hosai
Dia. 1
White: Ohira Shuzo; Black: Fujisawa
Shuko
Dia. 2
-162-
A voiding reducing
Sometimes expanding
one's own moyo will be
the biggest move on the
board, bigger than invading or reducing. White 1
in Dia. 1 was an overplay:
it shows that White was
too concerned about his
opponent's moyo. White's
thickness in the top left is
rendered ineffective when
Black reduces with 4 and
6. This is not an interesting result for White.
Dia. 2. The majestic
move of 1 is the best strategy. If Black tries to
counter moyo for moyo,
then White 3 occupies the
key point for expanding
both moyos, giving White
a reasonable result. Assuming White answers Black 'a'
at 'b', White's moyo is a
match for Black's. White
has so much thickness
that White 1 at 'c' would
fail to make proper use of
it. On the other hand, playing 1 at 'd' would let
Black exchange 'e' for
White 'f', Black 'g' for
White 'h', then reduce
the moyo with 'c'.
Dia. 1
White: Fujisawa Hosai; Black: Handa
Dogen
Dia. 2
-163-
Neglecting to reinforce
Dia. 1. Continuing from
the previous example, going for territory with White
1 was a slack move. Black
attacked once with 2, forcing White to move out
awkwardly with 3, then
broke into the left side
with 4 to 8. If White 9 at
'a', Black ataris at 'b' and
builds up a moyo at the
bottom.
Dia. 1
Dia. 2
- 164-
Dia. 1
White: Kajiwara Takeo; Black: Hashimoto Utaro
Dia. 2
- 165
A sacrifice strategy
White can also reduce
at the border line of the
opponent's territory. Depending on the opponent's
response, he will either pull
out the stones he already
has there or sacrifice them.
In Dia. 1, Black plays 2 to
create some aji, then tries
to capture the white stones
with 6. Black anticipates
that the white position
at the bottom will be
strengthened, so he makes
sure that he can force with
Black 'a', White 'b', Black
'c'. For his part, White can
use his sacrificed stones to
squeeze, so he has a thick
shape at the bottom. He
switches to the invasion
at 13.
Dia. 1
White: Ohira Shuzo; Black: Sakata Eio
Dia. 2
-166-
Dia. 1
White: Otake Hideo; Black: Ohira Shuzo
Dia, 2
-168-
CHAPTER SIX
Problems
Large-scale forcing moves
In the local context, reducing moves restrict the opponent's moyo,
but from an overall point of view, they have a big influence on the
fighting in other parts of the board. Sometimes they build influence
directed towards the centre; at other times they act as forcing moves
that also cut off the opponent's retreat or function as ladder blocks.
The subtle workings of reducing moves cannot be learnt from a
book but have to be absorbed from actual experience on the go board.
A reducing move is not just a local technique but rather an important
element of the fuseki or the middle game. In the whole-board context,
the majority of reducing moves are forcing moves, and you have to
work out how to use them as a bridge to the next stage of your strategy.
This chapter, based on problems from my games, attempts to explain the varied and complex functions of reducing moves. Before
proceeding, I would like to emphasize once again that the positional
judgement on which a reducing manoeuvre should be based involves
not just a comparison of territories but also an overall assessment of
the relative weakness and strength of all the groups on the board.
-170-
Answer to Problem 2
-172-
Answer to Problem 3
Answer to Problem 4. Opening hostilities
White 1 is a probe. Black
hopes to make White heavy
with 2 and 4, but the latter
succeeds in making shape
up to 11. He then answers
12 by starting a fight in
the corner. His reducing
manoeuvre has achieved
its goal.
Answer to Problem 4
- 174-
Problem 5. Black is
ahead in territory, so he
has to hold in check the
expansion of White's moyo
on the left.
Answer to Problem 5
Answer to Problem 6. Thus far and no farther
White 1 is as far in as
White can go. If White 'a',
Black cuts off his escape
route with 'b'. If Black
answers 1 at 'c', White
plays 9; if instead Black
'a', White plays White
'd', Black 9, White 'e'.
Black doesn't want White
to get a moyo in the
centre, so he makes a
'leaning' attack with 2
and 4.
Answer to Problem 6.
-176-
Problem 7. If Black
does not invade White's
enormous moyo, he will
lose. If he can chop it
down to size, he has a
chance. Remember that
White 'a' is sente.
Answer to Problem 7
Answer to Problem 8
178-
Answer to Problem 9
Answer to Problem 10. Creating complications
White hopes to complicate the game with 1.
Black 2 is the steadiest
answer; if Black 'a' instead,
White plays 'b'. After
White attacks at 3, Black
simplifies with 4 and 6,
but the sacrifice tesuji of
'c' is better. After 6, White
'a' makes the game close.
Answer to Problem 10
180-
Answer to Problem 11
Answer to Problem 12. Too hasty
If White is going to
reduce, White 1, which
also reinforces his stones
on the left, is the move,
but Black 2 makes White's
overall thinness painfully
apparent. White should
have built thickness with
'a', without worrying about
Black's centre area.
Answer to Problem 12
-182-
Answer to Problem 13
Answer to Problem 14
184-
16.
Black
Answer to Problem 15
Answer to Problem 16
-186-
Answer to Problem 17
Answer to Problem 18. A leisurely reduction
White judges 1 to be
the central point of Black's
moyo, so he seizes it first.
When Black defends at 2,
White plays 3 to prevent
Black from attacking there.
He then creates some aji in
the corner with 5 and 7
before jumping out to 9.
He has made a leisurely
reduction while also aiming at the three black
stones on the top right.
Before playing 4, Black
should have exchanged 'a'
for White 'b'.
Answer to Problem 18
-188-
Answer to Problem 19
Answer to Problem 20. Mounting a challenge
White's aim in attaching
at 1 is not only to start a
fight here but also to
deny Black an opportunity
to invade the left side.
Black 2 and 4 are the best
answer: Black tries to
make White heavy and
turn him into a target for
attack while also aiming
at 'a'. However, White
more or less succeeds in
making shape with 5 and
7.
Answer to Problem 20
-190-
Answer to Problem 21
Answer to Problem 22. Creating a foothold
Black reduces with 1. If
White 'a', Black can use 1
as a foothold for invading
at 'b'. In the ensuing
fighting, Black might be
able to engineer a double
attack on the white group
at the top and the one
underneath, so White
dodges to 2. Black destroys
the side territory with 3,
then switches to attack
with 5 and 7.
Answer to Problem 22
-192-
Answer to Problem 24
-194-
Answer to Problem 26
196-
Answer to Problem 27
Answer to Problem 28. Rhythmical reductions
White plays a probe at
1; if 2, he attaches once
more at 3, then switches
to 5. As he expected, Black
chooses a joseki that defends his territory, so
White attacks with 9, then
continues on the right
with 11. His rhythmical
series of forcing moves
there is working perfectly.
Answer to Problem 28
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Answer to Problem 29
Answer to Problem 30. The overall picture
Black 1 reduces the
white moyo and expands
the black moyo at the
bottom: it is the key
point overall. Black has
the 1113 tesuji ready for
the ensuing fight. When
he jumps to 19, the
initiative is completely
in his hands.
Answer to Problem 30
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