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This diagram would also apply to connecting the (-) outputs of two sensors, such as a glass mic and an impact
sensor, to one input of an alarm.
If you have two or more positive triggers to isolate, simply connect the anode side of each diode to each trigger
and the cathode sides to the positive input of the alarm.
Unless specified, all diodes seen in these diagrams are rated at 1 ampere (1N4001/L).
When the coil of an SPDT relay (Figure 1) is at rest (not energized), the common terminal (30) and the
normally closed terminal (87a) have continuity. When the coil is energized, the common terminal (30) and the
normally open terminal (87) have continuity.
The diagram below center (Figure 2) shows an SPDT relay at rest, with the coil not energized. The diagram
below right (Figure 3) shows the relay with the coil energized. As you can see, the coil is an electromagnet that
causes the arm that is always connected to the common (30) to pivot when energized whereby contact is broken
from the normally closed terminal (87a) and made with the normally open terminal (87).
When energizing the coil of a relay, polarity of the coil does not matter unless there is a diode across the coil. If
a diode is not present, you may attach positive voltage to either terminal of the coil and negative voltage to the
other, otherwise you must connect positive to the side of the coil that the cathode side (side with stripe) of the
diode is connected and negative to side of the coil that the anode side of the diode is connected.
SPST Relay: (Single Pole Single Throw Relay) an electromagnetic switch, consist of a coil (terminals 85 &
86), 1 common terminal (30), and one normally open terminal (87). It does not have a normally closed terminal
like the SPDT relay, but may be used in place of SPDT relays in all diagrams shown on this site where terminal
87a is not used.
Dual Make SPST Relay: (Single Pole Single Throw Relay) an electromagnetic switch, consist of a coil
(terminals 85 & 86), 1 common terminal (30), and two normally open terminals (87 and 87b). Dual make SPST
relays (Figure 4) are used to power two circuits at the same time that are normally isolated from each other,
such as parking lamp circuits on German automobiles.
The diagram below center (Figure 5) shows a dual make SPST relay at rest, with the coil not energized. The
diagram below right (Figure 6) shows the relay with the coil energized. The coil is an electromagnet that causes
the arms that are always connected to the common (30) to pivot when energized whereby contact is made with
the normally open terminals (87 and 87b).
Diodes are most often used across the coil to provide a path for current when the current path to the relay is
interrupted (i.e. switched off, coil no longer energized). This allows the coil field to collapse without the voltage
spike that would otherwise be generated. The diode protects switch or relay contacts and other circuits that may
be sensitive to voltage spikes.
Why do I want to use a relay and do I really need to? Anytime you want to switch a device which draws
more current than is provided by an output of a switch or component you'll need to use a relay. The coil of an
SPDT or an SPST relay that we most commonly use draws very little current (less than 200 milliamps) and the
amount of current that you can pass through a relay's common, normally closed, and normally open contacts
will handle up to 30 or 40 amps. This allows you to switch devices such as headlights, parking lights, horns,
etc., with low amperage outputs such as those found on keyless entry and alarm systems, and other components.
In some cases you may need to switch multiple things at the same time using one output. A single output
connected to multiple relays will allow you to open continuity and/or close continuity simultaneously on
multiple wires.
There are far too many applications to list that require the use of a relay, but we do show many of the most
popular applications in the pages that follow and many more in our Relay Diagrams - Quick Reference
application. If you are still unclear about what a relay does or if you should use one after you browse through
the rest of this section, please post a question in the12volt's install bay. (We recommend Tyco (formerly Bosch) or Potter &
Brumfield relays for all of the SPDT and SPST relay applications shown on this site.)
Resistors, like diodes and relays, are another of the electronic parts that should have a section in the installer's
parts bin. They have become a necessity for the mobile electronics installer, whether it be for door locks,
praking lights, timing circuits, remote starts, LED's, or just to discharge a stiffening capacitor.
Resistors "resist" the flow of electrical current. The higher the value of resistance (measured in ohms) the lower
the current will be.
Resistors are color coded. To read the color code of a common 4 band 1K ohm resistor with a 5% tolerance,
start at the opposite side of the GOLD tolerance band and read from left to right. Write down the corresponding
number from the color chart below for the 1st color band (BROWN). To the right of that number, write the
corresponding number for the 2nd band (BLACK). Now multiply that number (you should have 10) by the
corresponding multiplier number of the 3rd band (RED) (100). Your answer will be 1000 or 1K. It's that easy.
* If a resistor has 5 color bands, write the corresponding number of the 3rd band to the right of the 2nd before
you multiply by the corresponding number of the multiplier band. If you only have 4 color bands that include a
tolerance band, ignore this column and go straight to the
multiplier.
The tolerance band is usually gold or silver, but some may have
none. Because resistors are not the exact value as indicated by the
color bands, manufactures have included a tolorance color band to
indicate the accuracy of the resistor. Gold band indicates the
resistor is within 5% of what is indicated. Silver = 10% and None
= 20%. Others are shown in the chart below. The 1K ohm resistor in the example (left), may have an actual
measurement any where from 950 ohms to 1050 ohms.
If a resistor does not have a tolerance band, start from the band closest to a lead. This will be the 1st band. If
you are unable to read the color bands, then you'll have to use your multimeter. Be sure to zero it out first!
Resistor Color Codes
Band Color 1st Band # 2nd Band # *3rd Band # Multiplier x Tolerances ± %
Black 0 0 0 1
Brown 1 1 1 10 ± 1%
Red 2 2 2 100 ±2%
Orange 3 3 3 1000
Yellow 4 4 4 10,000
Green 5 5 5 100,000 ± 0.5 %
Blue 6 6 6 1,000,000 ± 0.25 %
Violet 7 7 7 10,000,000 ± 0.10 %
Grey 8 8 8 100,000,000 ± 0.05 %
White 9 9 9 1,000,000,000
Gold 0.1 ±5%
Silver 0.01 ± 10 %
None ± 20 %
Power Door Locks info & diagrams
Single Wire Systems
There may be one, two, or three wires in the harness not counting the illumination wire(s), if any, and only changes in
voltage and /or resistance on one wire to lock and unlock. Some of these will open a circuit to lock and ground a wire to
unlock. Others will show a difference in resistance to ground or positive 12 V DC during lock or unlock or both. Vacuum
type locks will change polarity on a single wire to lock and unlock.
Nissan's Single Wire '91-'95 using 1 relay and 1 diode (Type F door lock)
On the '91-'95 300ZX and the '92-'95 240SX, locate the lock/unlock wire in the driver's kick panel or door
jamb. When this wire is cut, or opened, the doors will lock. When this wire is grounded. the doors will unlock.
If you have positive door lock outputs read next.
3 Wire Negative
There are three wires in the harness not counting the illumination wire(s), if any. One wire has continuity to ground at all
times. Another wire only shows continuity to ground during lock and (+) 12 V DC at rest. The last wire only shows
continuity to ground during unlock and (+) 12 V DC at rest.
3 Wire Positive
There are three wires in the harness not counting the illumination wire(s), if any. One wire has constant (+) 12 V DC at all
times. Another wire only shows (+) 12 V DC during lock and ground at rest. The last wire only shows (+) 12 V DC during
unlock and ground at rest.
3 Wire Positive Door Locks
This is one of the most common type of door lock switch configurations found in most vehicles. In most cases
you will not need to add relays for this type. Most of the newer alarms and keyless entries on the market today
have both positive and negative 200 ma door lock outputs that are usually capable of activating the factory
relays. Should you need to add relays for a "3 wire negative" door lock system, just change both normally
open terminals (87) from 12V(+) to ground. If your alarm or keyless entry has positive outputs only, you will
have to connect the other side of the coils to ground and connect your outputs as shown. The lock and unlock
wires below refer to the switch wires, not the motor legs.
4 Wire Reversal
There are four wires in the harness not counting the illumination wire(s), if any. One wire has constant (+) 12 V DC at all
times. Another wire has continuity to ground at all times. A third wire reads nothing at rest, and (+) 12V DC during lock
and continuity to ground during unlock. The fourth wire reads nothing at rest, and ground during lock and (+) 12V DC
during unlock.
5 Wire Alternating (+) 12 V DC
There are four, five, or six wires in the harness not counting the illumination wire(s), if any. One or two of the wires has
constant (+) 12 V DC at all times. One or two of the wires has continuity to ground at all times. Another wire reads
continuity to ground at rest, and (+) 12V DC during lock. The last wire reads continuity to ground at rest, and (+) 12V DC
during unlock.
3 Wire Positive Door Locks
This is one of the most common type of door lock switch configurations found in most vehicles. In most cases
you will not need to add relays for this type. Most of the newer alarms and keyless entries on the market today
have both positive and negative 200 ma door lock outputs that are usually capable of activating the factory
relays. Should you need to add relays for a "3 wire negative" door lock system, just change both normally
open terminals (87) from 12V(+) to ground. If your alarm or keyless entry has positive outputs only, you will
have to connect the other side of the coils to ground and connect your outputs as shown. The lock and unlock
wires below refer to the switch wires, not the motor legs.
Vacuum Type
There is no external switch (switch is contained in the drivers door lock actuator) or it has three wires not counting the
illumination wire(s), if any. One wire always shows continuity to ground. Another always shows constant (+) 12 V DC.
The third wire changes, reading continuity to ground or (+) 12 V DC depending on the position of the door locks.
Added Actuator(s)
The two wires of the actuator(s) will normally rest at ground, if wired as shown in this diagram, but may rest at (+) 12 V
DC. Polarity changes on one wire during lock and on the other wire during unlock.
*
If you are dealing with an aftermarket door lock system, locate and measure each coil wire of the lock and unlock
relays. Then connect to the wires that activate each relay accordingly. If the system has a relay module, it may also have
two wires (pig tail) that will energize the coils of the internal relays. These will usually be negative inputs. Some will have
both positive and negative inputs to work with any alarm or keyless entry without the need for additional relays.
Special
These applications will be similar to others, but will require additional connections, parts, or both.
The capacitor allows the coil of the relay to be energized until the capacitor stores a charge, thus de-energizing
the coil. The resistor bleeds off the charge of the capacitor when positive voltage is removed from the other
side of the coil. You can increase the output time by simply changing the value of the capacitor. This one will
give you about a 1/2 second output.
For each dual voice coil woofer that you want to change from series to parallel, you'll need two relays for
each. They can all be controlled from the same switch.
Switching from Stereo to Bridged Mono and Series to Parallel (link)
Combining the two configurations above with 4 woofers or 2 DVC woofers, you can change from stereo to
mono and from series to parallel. Switch A (-) is to switch between series and parallel. Switch B (-) is to
switch between stereo and mono. With both switches off, the amp is wired in stereo and each pair of woofers,
top and bottom, are wired in series. *If your amplifier configuration for stereo and mono are different than
shown, this obviously will not work. Be sure to check the specifications of your amplifier first.
One Channel to Multiple Outputs (link)
You can add multiple functions to an AUX output of an alarm or keyless entry by adding a relay in series with
the output wire as shown to any switch or accessory with an output. Only one output can be active at anytime,
the one first in the chain (bottom relay in diagram) will have priority, so if you wanted to have the ignition
from the key to have priority over the ignition from the remote start, you would connect it to the first relay and
the output of the remote start to the next and so on. Also pay attention to the top relay shown. Terminal #87a
(the default output) will be active only when none of the coils of the relays are energized. There are many
other accessories that can be used with this, including the remote turn on wire and/or power antenna wire of
your head unit.
Radio On Until Door Opened (Retained Accessory Power) (link)
If you wish to keep the radio (or any other device that is powered by an accessory circuit) on until a door is
opened, you can do so by creating a latch when the accessory is turned on with the relay shown below on the
left, then breaking ground to the latch when a door is opened as shown with the relay below on the right.
While this will keep the radio on, the entire accessory circuit will see 12V+ until a door is opened with the key
in the off position.
If you want to prevent 12V+ from feeding back into the accessory circuit or have more than one device on this
circuit and do not want all of them to stay powered, you can isolate the device you want to stay powered by
cutting the accessory wire going to it and adding two 1 amp diodes and an additional relay as shown below.
The first diode near the top left of the diagram is to prevent 12V+ from going back into the accessory circuit.
The second diode between terminals 87 and 86 prevents the radio from pulling current through the first diode.
If the second diode is not in place, the first diode will become toast. The additional relay is needed to prevent
the radio from turning off when the key is in the accessory position and a door is open.
Below is the same set up as above for positive door triggers.
Starter Interrupts
Normally Closed Starter Kill Relay
The basic starter kill relay diagram shown below, breaks continuity of the wire from the ignition switch to the
starter motor (or in some cases i.e.; Ford, to another relay), when the alarm is armed and the ignition is turned
on. This is the most commonly used application for disabling the starter. Click here for another starter kill
diagram.
You can substitute the switch with a number of others devices such as the amp turn on wire of your head unit.
Be sure to isolate it with at least a 1 amp diode. Turn the key to the run position. Allow the head unit to come
on or turn it on. Now start the vehicle. If you connected to the power antenna wire, make sure the tuner is on.
If you have a pullout or detachable face head unit, your vehicle will not start without it.
If you wish to use a device such as your horn, but do not want the horn to sound when you deactivate the
starter kill, yet still work when driving, you can use the same configuration above on both the horn and the
starter wire as shown below. The starter kill is deactivated by the positive output of the vehicle's horn relay
and the horn's interrupt is deactivated by the positive output of the starter wire from the key. You could
substitute the horn with other devices such as parking lights, brake lights, etc. where you do not want it to be
obvious that you used the device to disable the starter kill.
Flashing LED
The LED flasher circuits below operate on a single 1.5 volt battery. The circuit on the upper right uses the popular
LM3909 LED flasher IC and requires only a timing capacitor and LED.
The top left circuit, designed by Andre De‐Guerin illustrates using a 100uF capacitor to double the battery voltage to
obtain 3 volts for the LED.
Two sections of a 74HC04 hex inverter are used as a squarewave oscillator that establishes the flash rate while a third
section is used as a buffer that charges the capacitor in series with a 470 ohm resistor while the buffer output is at +1.5
volts.
When the buffer output switches to ground (zero volts) the charged capacitor is placed in series with the LED and the
battery which supplies enough voltage to illuminate the LED. The LED current is approximately 3 mA, so a high
brightness LED is recommended.
In the other two circuits, the same voltage doubling principle is used with the addition of a transistor to allow the
capacitor to discharge faster and supply a greater current (about 40 mA peak). A larger capacitor (1000uF) in series with
a 33 ohm resistor would increase the flash duration to about 50mS. The discrete 3 transistor circuit at the lower right
would need a resistor (about 5K) in series with the 1uF capacitor to widen the pulse width.
Requested Info: Head Unit Wire Harness
Disclaimer
*All information on this site is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied,
including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and
use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.
Here's the same configuration showing a negative output from an alarm or remote keyless entry used to
activate a trunk release solenoid that requires 12V+ to release the trunk.
Convert a Positive Output to a Negative Output
If you have a switch or an alarm or keyless entry that has a positive output that you wish to use to switch a
device that requires a ground such as a horn, dome light, parking lights, head lights, hatch release, etc., wire a
relay as shown below to convert the positive output (trigger) to a negative output.
Here's the same configuration showing a positive output from an alarm or remote keyless entry used to
activate a vehicle's parking light relay that requires a ground to turn the lights on.
American Wire Gauge (AWG): Diameter in Inches
Also see:
• Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes