Textiles: Fibres -wool (various weight; felted also known) Lloyd-Morgan, p98 -goat hair (for rough use

fabric use) Lloyd-Morgan, p98 -hares wool (one example-insole sock) Lloyd-Morgan, p98 -flax (up to 200 count-found in Egypt, may not be period in N. Europe) Lloyd-Morgan, p98 -fragment of fabric made of fibres secreted by Pinna Nobilis (a mollusc) Lloyd-Morgan, p98 -silk and cotton out of the reach of almost everyone at the time, but some extant Lloyd-Morgan, p98 -hemp, nettle (modern nettle fabric called ramie) Lloyd-Morgan, p98 -gold-shot fabric (Strabo on Gaulish aristocracy) Lloyd-Morgan, p101 -Iron Age: sheepskin (capes and caps) Lloyd-Morgan, p101 -silk textiles from east (Hohmichele tumulus; Heuneberg) Wells, p230 -gold embroidery (Greifenbuhl; 6-5th BCE) Jope, p388 -Chinese silk thread embroidery; Hohmichele Green, p. 72 Textiles: Colours -Hallstatt: white and coloured wool from undyed fibres Lloyd-Morgan, p101 -one white wool cloth had, woven in black or dark brown bands, like tartan Lloyd-Morgan, p101 -brown and black undyed sheepskin caps Lloyd-Morgan, p101 -Iron Age (Denmark) white sheepskin bag Lloyd-Morgan, p101 -grey sheep predominant in Iron Age Lloyd-Morgan, p101 -wool, in white, black, brown, grey, reddish, yellow or tan; all undyed (Pliny) Lloyd-Morgan, p100 -(Scythian, not Celtic) pink, blue, yellow, yellow/ginger, brown-woad:blue, oak bark:browns, madder and Ladys Bedstraw:orangy-red (Pazryk and Bashadar-c. 400BCE) Lloyd-Morgan, p101 -multi-coloured tunics (Dio Cassius on Boudicca) Lloyd-Morgan, p 101 -dyed and shot through with gold (Strabo on Gaulish aristocracy) Lloyd-Morgan, p 101 -mostly in reds (Martial on Gauls) Lloyd-Morgan, p 101 -coloured patterning on garments suggested by incised and punched decoration on extant sculpture Lloyd-Morgan, p 101 Dress: Clothing Bronze Age: -hairnets, tunics, cloaks, caps (Denmark) Lloyd-Morgan, p 98 Iron Age: -caps of sheepskin (Huldremose, Randers; Denmark) Lloyd-Morgan, p 101 -6-5th BCE: clothes embroidered with gold (Greifenbuhl) Jope, p388 -sets of earring (too many for ears), may have been worn fastened to headdress Champion, p413 Roman Contact: -multi-coloured tunic; thick cloak, fastened with brooch (Dio Cassius c. 60 CE) Lloyd-Morgan, p 103 -

Dress: Belts Hallstatt: - leather belts, with hooks, sometimes decorative plates attached, hooks for males usually iron, with little decoration, bronze hooks engraved with geometric designs Champion, p418 -early Iron Age: bronze belt-plates on wide leather belts Champion, p418 -rows of ornate stamped patterns (mostly geometric, some bird and flower motifs) Champion, p418 -reach width of 20cm, with length 60cm (one found was 1m long) Champion, p418 -found mostly on front of belt Champion, p418 -some belts from late Hallstatt decorated with rows of bronze studs Champion, p418 -cast bronze plates on wide-leather belts Green, p. 80 -found in both male and female graves Green, p. 80 -decorated with elaborate openwork vegetal or animal motifs Green, p. 80 -coral inlay Green, p. 80 La Tene I: - most common belt decoration highly decorated belt hook Champion, p419 -usually bronze Champion, p419 -frequently decorated with openwork of vegetal or animal design Champion, p419 -occasionally plastic designs, engraved or coral inlaid Champion, p419 -belt chain of bars with loop ends, joined by link-rings; sometime plain chains Champion, p419 La Tene II & III: -decorated belt-chains more wide-spread Champion, p419 -worn by women Champion, p419 -some just series of linked rings Champion, p419 -may have decorated elements involving red enamel in patterned cut-out areas Champion, p419 -cast bronze buckle late IA Ireland Green, p. 80 -triskele design Green, p. 80 Dress: Fasteners Iron Age: -clothes held together with fibulae, the fashions in which changed rapidly during period Wells, p220 -Hallstatt D: small fibula placed near head; may be fastening for headdress Champion, p418 -Hallstatt C & D: long pins near head; may hold hairstyle or hairnet or head covering Champion, p411 -La Tene 5th BCE: long pins elsewhere on body; possibly fasten clothes (or shroud) Champion, p411 -La Tene (early): more fibulae; pairs (sometimes with linking chain) at shoulders Champion, p418 -most graves; 2-3 fibulae, some more than a dozen, unlikely worn all at once Champion, p418 Roman Contact: -3rd BCE: clothing fastened with simple brooches (Gussage All Saints, Dorset) Jope, p393 -4-2nd BCE: middle class settlement with plain common iron involute brooches (Yorkshire) Jope, p394

Dress: Body Decoration -tattoos and body-painting not unlikely Champion, p419 -hinted at in Classical literature Champion, p419 -in Siberia in same time frame, evidence of elaborate tattooing Champion, p419 -recorded use of woad may indicate regularly used decoration Champion, p419 (personally, I find that unlikely, as it would not be practical on a regular basis) Champion, p419 Hair: Women -long Lloyd-Morgan, p 103 -advent of Rome affected hairstyles; hairpins now seen Lloyd-Morgan, p 103 -Osterby: woman with hair fastened in knot on right side of head Lloyd-Morgan, p 103 -York: one woman-auburn ringlets; one-hair in bun fastened with two pins Lloyd-Morgan, p 103 -Heuneberg: pin & coil headdress Jope, p383 -long-shanked pins near head, suggest hairpins, but may have fastened hairnet or headdress Champion, p412 -change in status hairstyles in 5th BCE suggested by lack of hairpins in burials Champion, p412 -small fibula by head, suggesting headdress fastener (Eberdingen-Hochdorf) Champion, p412 Hair: Men -shoulder-length, worn combed back Lloyd-Morgan, p 103 -clean-shaven, or with long mustache Lloyd-Morgan, p 102 Jewelry: Torques -appear as early as circa 361 BCE Lloyd-Morgan, p 102 -gold, bronze, copper alloy Lloyd-Morgan, p 102 -large number of torques from East Anglia (1st BCE) Wells, p 221 -some closed (most likely acquired as infants) Champion, p 413-4 -closing devices (if any) include mortise-and-tenon joint, hook-and-eye, covering sleeve, and complex key twist mechanism Champion, p 413-4 -worn by Celts from at least 6th BCE-2nd CE; also by Bronze Age ancestors Green, p. 73 -worn by gods in late pre-Roman and Romano-Celtic Iconography Green, p. 73 -metal, usually gold or bronze, occasionally silver or electrum Green, p. 74 -curves closely to fit around neck Green, p. 74 -plain or highly decorated; tubular, twisted bar, multiple wires twisted Green, p. 74 -terminals may be massive; decorated in high relief, making them uncomfortable to wear Green, p. 74 -before 3rd BCE gold and bronze torques most often found in female graves Green, p. 74 -stone sculptures show males wearing them Green, p. 74 -after 3rd BCE function seems to have changed; now found mostly in male graves Green, p. 74 -also more often found in votive offerings Green, p. 74

-may indicate increasing assoc. with symbols of sanctity, authority, prestige, power Green, p. 74 -decorations not specific to torque; but religious imagery may be recognized Green, p. 78 Hallstatt: -not common in Hallstatt period except in rich graves Champion, p 413-4 -often gold, decorated Champion, p 413-4 -found in both male and female graves Champion, p 413-4 -variations include hollow or solid, open or closed rings, twisted or smooth, engraved geometric decoration, cast relief, bronze, a few iron Champion, p 413-4 -Buffer terminals with curvilinear decoration around buffer Champion, p 413-4 La Tene I: -gold and bronze torque widespread Champion, p 413-4 - mostly associated with women, especially bronze Champion, p 413-4 La Tene II & III: - mostly gold Champion, p 413-4 -usually associated with males, when found in graves Champion, p 413-4 -this is period when most sculptures with buffer-end torque likely from Champion, p 413-4 -in Southwest Germany, Eastern France, Swiss Plateau: opaque red glass discs (3-5 normal); sometimes alternating with cast bronze knots or lobes, with deep-cut s or spiral decorations filled with same red glass Champion, p 413-4 -often occurred with matching fibulae and disc bracelets (1-4 discs) Champion, p 413-4 -in Germany, Hungary, and Northern France, similar torques with coral inlay pins, and small plaques of gold found Champion, p 413-4 -later La Tene appear tubular torques with wild rococo uncomfortable to wear Champion, p 413-4 -also with large loop or buffer-end; decorated with repousse or engraved Champion, p 413-4 -usually associated with ritual deposits Champion, p 413-4 -large number of torques from East Anglia (1st BCE) Wells, p 221 Roman Era: -late Iron Age and Romano-Celtic period; representations of deities wearing torques Green, p. 78-9 -deities most often assoc. with prosperity Green, p. 78-9 -may not be religious symbol themselves, but emblems of authority, rank and power Green, p. 78-9 Jewelry: Necklaces

Hallstatt: -necklace of strands of beads separated by spacers Champion, p 413-4 -jet, amber, bone, coral, bronze, glass Champion, p 413-4 -single strand necklaces have similar beads (often in combination) Champion, p 413-4

-glass beads include blue with white zigzags, yellow with blue and white eyes Champion, p 413-4 -amber beads include large lathe turned discs up to 6cm, bi-conical Champion, p 413-4 -coral beads spherical or, rarely, raw branches pierced length-wise Champion, p 413-4 -common combination of beads is blue with spherical or raw branches of coral Champion, p 413-4 La Tene I: -wider range of beads in La Tene I & II lead to polychrome rings in La Tene III Champion, p 413-4 La Tene II: La Tene III: -polychrome ring beads Champion, p 413-4 Roman Era Jewelry: Pendants and Amulets: -often hung in groups around neck Champion, p 414-5 -can be attached to solid neck-rings or incorporated into necklace Champion, p 414-5 -also found at hip or waist suggesting suspension from a belt Champion, p 414-5 -found in both male and female graves, but mostly associated with children Champion, p 414-5 -bronze pendant shapes include shoes, figure (often ithyphallic), faces, wheels, birds, baskets, axes, open triangles or squares Champion, p 414-5 -amber in large beads or shaped pieces Champion, p 414-5 -glass bracelets & bronze arm-rings in fragments, animal teeth, naturally pierced stones, pieces of stone axes, whole or broken glass beads Champion, p 414-5 -highly ornamented openwork discs (usually bronze) may have been pendants (suggested by double face), or sewn to garment (suggested by lack of wear common on pendants) Champion, p 414-5 -gold-decorated iron plaques & discs, coral and amber inlaid same problem Champion, p 414-5 Hallstatt: -use of raw branch coral may be intended to ward off evil eye as suggested by later Classical references Champion, p 414-5 La Tene I: La Tene II:

La Tene III: Roman Era:

Jewelry: Brooches & Fibulae -most often bronze Wells, p 220 -fashion in fibulae underwent rapid change in Celtic period, allowing good chronological markers for graves and archaeological sites Wells, p 220 -transmitted information on the status of the wearer Wells, p 220 -most widespread personal adornment of Iron Age Champion, p 417-8 -probably used to secure clothing, may have been used to secure shroud Champion, p 417-8 -one grave has fibula placed by head suggesting used to secure headdress Champion, p 417-8 -brooches and pins used to fasten clothes; pins also for hair Green, p. 80 -used for shrouds Green, p. 80 -pins found close to head suggesting used for hair Green, p. 80 -ring-headed pin with coral inlay found in N. England 4th-3rd BCE Green, p. 80-1 -fibulae: brooch with spring and pin like modern safety pin Green, p. 80 -bows often ornate with human or animal motifs Green, p. 81 -dream imagery (see: Celtic Design) Green, p. 81 -swirling curvilinear designs Green, p. 81 -has been some attempt to link design to sex and marital status but with little success Green, p. 81 -many brooches decorated with miniatures symbolic motifs Green, p. 81 -require great skill to produce Green, p. 81 -difficult to see except up close Green, p. 81 -may be private meanings to wearer and perhaps the gods Green, p. 81 Hallstatt: -early period: spectacle brooches (mostly found on women) Champion, p 417-8 -change to fibulae in Hallstatt D, beginning in Western Hallstatt Champion, p 417-8 -boat & leech type first to develop, as well as serpentine bow Champion, p 417-8 -unilateral, short bilateral spring or stop disc Champion, p 417-8 -these mutate into Certosa, kettledrum, double drum, and decorated foot varieties, with genuine or false springs Champion, p 417-8 -some inlaid with coral or amber but not highly decorated Champion, p 417-8 -more than one often found in graves of both men and women, but not as obviously paired as in later graves Champion, p 417-8 -inlay, and attached ornaments of enamel, glass and coral common Wells, p 220 -gold and silver rare Wells, p 220 -6th BCE: snake brooches appear Heuneberg fortress, and Hochdorf Jope, p 381 -beginning of softly curving shapes of mid 5th BCE

5th BCE: bird-headed brooch design Jope, p 399 -late period: mask brooches appear; representations of animals, animal faces, and human faces Champion, p 417-8 -both stylistic, and realistic Champion, p 417-8 -coral inlay in eyes or along top of bow of some Champion, p 417-8 -most bronze, few gold Champion, p 417-8 La Tene: La Tene I: -Southern Germany, Western Austria; mask brooches; tiny cast bronze Megaw, p 357 -decoration with horses, sheep, boars, nightmare creatures Megaw, p 357 -in industrial centers where salt wealth could afford the artisans Megaw, p 357 -greater numbers and styles of fibulae Champion, p 417-8 -pairs of fibulae; with linking chain sometimes, placed at shoulders Champion, p 417-8 -especially common is bilateral spring and returned foot type Champion, p 417-8 -decorated: plastic or profiled ornaments, discs, inlaid with coral Champion, p 417-8 -disc from 1cm-3cm, single piece coral, or three of four pieces; Champion, p 417-8 -highly decorated wedges of coral Champion, p 417-8 -coral and red glass (in certain areas) found in bow and pressed into s or geometrical cut-out areas Champion, p 417-8 -most graves 2-3+ fibulae, some up to a dozen Champion, p 417-8 -may be display of wealth i.e. whole jewelry box, not way worn in life Champion, p 417-8 -majority bronze, occasionally silver or gold, some iron (more common than silver or gold) but found singly in male graves Champion, p 417-8 La Tene II: -common characteristic, foot reaches back and is joined to bow Champion, p 417-8 -less decorated than La Tene I on Continent Champion, p 417-8 -more elaborate in Britain: inward curving bow, expanded plate with engraving, plastic, or inlaid Champion, p 417-8 La Tene III: -bow and foot cast together -catchplate sometimes had pierced ornamentation, but bow had little or no decoration until near Roman era when polychrome enamel inlaid disc & cut-out areas Champion, p 417-8 -penannular & annular developed in later La Tene in Ireland & Britain but much lesser on Continent Champion, p 417-8 -uninterrupted development of style through early centuries CE resulted in massive & highly ornate silver quoit brooches with long pins and inlays of precious stones Champion, p 417-8

Roman Period: -iron fibulae common in mens graves Wells, p 220 Jewelry: bracelets and Armlets

-most commonly bronze, some iron Wells, p 221 -gold rings in rich graves & hoard deposits from 150 BCE Wells, p 221 -glass rings came into fashion after mid 3rd BCE Wells, p 222-3 -frequent in womens burials Wells, p 222-3 -saprolite bracelets common burial goods Wells, p 222-3 -bronze, iron, lignite, shale, occasionally gold, glass Champion, p 415-6 -gold usually from rich graves, frequently male, where found singly Champion, p 415-6 -when found in female graves, usually found to pairs, like bronze Champion, p 415-6 -bronze arm-rings in wide variety; hollow or solid, bands or bangles (closed ring) Champion, p 415-6 -narrow bangles with engraving worn in sets Champion, p 415-6 -some suggestion of armbands being worn on upper arms by both male and female Champion, p 415-6 -small number of iron arm-rings found; mostly male graves Champion, p 415-6 -single armlets in male graves; paired armlets in female graves Green, p. 79 -long-lived popularity Green, p. 79 Hallstatt: -status significant burial item Wells, p 383 -late Hallstatt arm-rings similar to neck-rings Champion, p 415-6 -beaten gold with linear decoration Champion, p 415-6 -many open with expanded terminals; cast decorations, or geometric engraving Champion, p 415-6 -barrel armbands; bronze, occasional jet/lignite Champion, p 415-6 -E France, SW Germany, Switzerland Champion, p 415-6 -bronze barrel bands as high as 20cm Champion, p 415-6 -heavily decorated with engraved geometric design Champion, p 415-6 -in some cases clearly could not have been removed in lifetime Champion, p 415-6 -many show signs of repair, but would be almost impossible to work in Champion, p 415-6 -jet or lignite rarely decorated, found further east into Austria than bronze Champion, p 415-6 -shale bracelet in simple rounded cross-section found into Britain Champion, p 415-6 -bracelets of beads (glass, coral, amber); late Hallstatt to early La Tene Champion, p 415-6

La Tene I: -5th BCE some with animal or human head detail, or early La Tene style Champion, p 415-6 -many similar to Hallstatt (cast & engraved decoration), also twisted & serpentine, open and closed rings with curvilinear designs Champion, p 415-6 -glass arm-rings appear in France and Switzerland Champion, p 415-6 La Tene II: -glass arm-rings spread and become diverse Champion, p 415-6 -white, green, blue, yellow, raised decoration in different colour Champion, p 415-6 La Tene III:

-gold arm-rings reappear with decoration similar to contemporary neck-rings Champion, p 415-6 -bracelets with attached discs of red opaque glass in Swiss & SW German graves Champion, p 415-6 -very heavy armbands from N England & S Scotland into Roman Era Champion, p 415-6 -cast decoration and areas of coloured enamel at terminals Champion, p 415-6

Roman Era: Jewelry: Leg-rings: -normally plain bronze Champion, p 416 -hollow or solid Champion, p 416 -usually closed; heavy hinged worn on E Central Europe Champion, p 416 -worn in pairs Champion, p 415-6 -only female graves (though any grave with leg-rings classified as female without further sexing) Champion, p 416 -assumed to be female preserve, but skeletons with anklets rarely sexed independent of jewelry Green, p. 79 Hallstatt: La Tene I: La Tene II: La Tene III: Roman Era: Jewelry: Finger-rings -gold, silver, bronze, occasionally iron Champion, p 416-7 -both male and female Champion, p 416-7 -found in graves of both sexes Green, p. 79 Hallstatt: -rare in Hallstatt Champion, p 416-7

La Tene I & II: -more numerous in La Tene I & II (especially in Switzerland) Champion, p 416-7 -gold, silver, electrum Champion, p 416-7, Green, p. 79 -silver rare in Iron Age Europe Champion, p 416-7 -bent or elbow ring (characteristic of Swiss, but also in Britain) Champion, p 416-7 -meander ring, wire ring with a knot, plain or decorated bronze bands Champion, p 416-7 -La Tene II also a few intaglio rings inlaid with glass, amber or stone Champion, p 416-7 -bronze amulet rings (human figure) Celtic Art and Cultures -janus form ring; in male grave Green, p. 79 -worn singly or grouped ornaments Green, p. 79 La Tene III: Roman Era:

Jewelry: Earrings -found in both male and female graves Champion, p 412-3 -more frequent in female graves Champion, p 412-3 -generally worn in pairs; appear singly up to sets of six on average Champion, p 412-3 -up to sixteen; unlikely all worn in ears at once (perhaps in headdress) Champion, p 412-3 -found in both male and female graves Green, p. 79 -could be worn singly, paired or grouped Green, p. 79 Hallstatt: -hollow gold or bronze crescents; sometimes with attached pendants Champion, p 412-3 -bronze band rings with hook & eye fastenings, decorated with geometric or punched circle ornamentation Champion, p 412-3 La Tene I: -same as Hallstatt, but with upper side open to look like boats Champion, p 412-3 -sometimes decorated with curvilinear designs, or beaded lines like granulation Champion, p 412-3 La Tene II: La Tene III:

Roman Era:

Jewelry: Beads -glass beads in multitude of size, shape and pattern Wells, p 223 -mostly found in graves of women and children Wells, p 223 -also amber, bone, antler Wells, p 223 -amber from Baltic, coral from Mediterranean Wells, p 231 Hallstatt: -jet, amber, bronze, most common-glass (plain & with applied decorations), occasional gold Lloyd-Morgan, p 102 -jet, amber, bone, coral, bronze, glass Champion, p 413-4 -glass beads include blue with white zigzags, yellow with blue and white eyes Champion, p 413-4 -amber beads include large lathe turned discs up to 6cm, bi-conical Champion, p 413-4 -coral beads spherical or, rarely, raw branches pierced length-wise Champion, p 413-4 La Tene I: -wider range of beads in La Tene I & II lead to polychrome rings in La Tene III Champion, p 413-4 La Tene II: La Tene III: -polychrome ring beads Champion, p 413-4 Roman Era: Jewelry: Hair Pins -Roman influence affected hair styles; hairpins now seen-precious metal, copper alloy, bone, antler, glass, jet Lloyd-Morgan, p 103 -York; young woman found with hair fastened by two jet pins Lloyd-Morgan, p 103 Hallstatt: -long-shanked pins with varied head style Champion, p 412 -found near head in Hallstatt C & D Champion, p 412

-hollow head construction; two hemispheres of sheet bronze Champion, p 412 -solid head of amber, jet, coral Champion, p 412 -some with head as large as 4cm diameter (France & SW Germany) Champion, p 412 -amber decorated with patterns of concentric lines and inlaid dots Champion, p 412 -segments of Mediterranean coral in spheres Champion, p 412 -decorated gold foil Champion, p 412 La Tene I: -pins in La Tene graves not usually by heads, suggesting change in hair styles Champion, p 412 La Tene II: La Tene III: Roman Era: Other Facts: -iron ring-head pin & iron brooch 3rd BCE Wiltshire Jope, p 393 -early Iron Age iron was used for purely decorative status items Jope, p400 -art on mirror backs exclusive to Britain in 1st BCE-1st CE Green, p. 126 Resources: -5% of women at Hallstatt had gold in burial artifacts Jope, p 378 -gold barely appeared in Britain before 1st BCE Jope, p 378 -gold, silver, sometimes iron, amber, coral, enamel, glass, bone; for jewelry Green, p. 72 -coral (pink-red) appeared 5th BCE Jope, p 403 -soon after experiments began with man-made colour Jope, p403 -red enamel 5th BCE; yellow, red opaque, blue from cobalt during Iron Age Jope, p 403 Cultural implications: Status -Celts preoccupied with personal appearance and displays of wealth and status Green, p. 72 -most important personal display items, torques, armlets, bracelets, anklets earrings, fingerrings, brooches, belt ornaments Green, p. 72 -beads and pendants also worn Green, p. 72 -armlets, finger-rings, especially torques suggest rank and ritual practices Green, p. 72 -graves of 6th-4th BCE contain greatest displays of wealth through jewelry, especially gold Green, p. 72 -by 6th BCE gold had apparently become preserve of the nobility Green, p. 72 -men sometimes buried with single gold armband; perhaps a symbol of rank and prowess Green, p. 72

-gold janus-form ring with bearded face found in warriors grave Green, p. 72 -number of high-ranking female burials suggesting independent status for women Green, p. 73 -human in art often only head, rarely whole form; worked into and subordinate to design Green, p. 82-3 -in metalwork male and female seem to be equally common Green, p. 82-3 Hohmichele, Heuneburg: 6th BCE; male/female burial Green, p. 73 -woman: bead necklace of amber and glass; richly decorated belt Green, p. 73 -man: iron torque Green, p. 73 Vix: female princess; 500 BCE approx. Green, p. 73 -massive gold torque, bead necklace (amber, diorite, serpentine), coral inlay brooches, anklet, two bracelets (one bronze, one lignite) Green, p. 73 Reinheim: woman; approx 50 yrs old Green, p. 73 -matching torque and armlet with woman and bird of prey motifs Green, p. 73 -jewelry box in grave contained more than 200 items (brooches, finger-rings, amber and polychrome glass beads Green, p. 73