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British Columbia Estuary Mapping System Table of contents

Appendix A: Wave Exposure Calculation


Wave processes are the dominant controlling process for shore morphology and sediment redistribution and are probably the dominant control of biota that use the shore zone. Consequently, it is important to have an index of wave exposure for each shoreunit. Ideally wave exposure estimates would be based on the consideration of wave energy units; however, the calculation of wave energy for a particular shore unit would involve the use of complex wave climate models that use wave fetch characteristics, historical wind climate measurements from shore stations with over-the-water corrections for the area under consideration, wave generation routines, and wave refraction and shoaling routines. The application of these routines would be required for each shore unit. This method for estimating wave exposure is based on some standard engineering practices for estimating wave heights for a particular wind speed and direction. It was developed for the British Columbia Physical Shore-zone Classification (Howes et al. 1994). The method involves the consideration of the wave fetch window; that is, the open-water area offshore from the shoreunit over which waves can be generated by winds - the larger the fetch window, the greater the wave exposure. Estimation of wave exposure involves the consideration of two fetch indices: effective fetch and maximum fetch. The wave exposure estimates provided by this technique represent a first approximation of wave exposure. Important controls such as the associated local wind climate and wave refraction are ignored for the sake of simplifying the estimate. As such, the Wave Exposure estimates provide a first-order estimate of wave energy expended within the shoreunit. Intertidal biotic assemblages have been used as an index of wave exposure categories and have been found to agree reasonably well with the Wave Exposure estimates defined from the "fetch model". Analysis of detailed ground survey stations of intertidal biota showed about 75% agreement with the fetch model and about 85% agreement with video-imagery revisions of the "fetch model". In other words, the Wave Exposure categories defined as part of the fetch model agree with community assemblages observed in the field. Effective Fetch Effective fetch calculation involves the measurement of the fetch distance along several directions from a given point from the shore and is a standard engineering measurement for shore protection studies (CERC 1977). Wave fetch measurement values and exposure calculations Unit Shore Shore Left Right Max. Max. Effective Exposure

Normal Normal 45o (km) 45o (km) Fetch Azimuth Fetch Azimuth o () (km) (o) A B C 135 066 035 15.7 19.0 13.5 8.2 13.0 11.5 19.5 11.0 50 131 073 082

Fetch Fetch (km) (km) 29 40 75 14.6 14.9 23.6

Category

SP SP SE

To simplify the large number of measurements required for a mapping area (for example there are over 1,800 shore units mapped in the Southern Strait of Georgia), a "modified effective fetch" measurement was developed. The "modified effective fetch" technique involves the measurement of three fetch distances: the shore-normal or perpendicular to the general trend of the shore unit, 45o to the left of the shore-normal and 45o to the right of the shore normal. These three measurements are used to compute a modified effective fetch for the shoreunit based on the fetch equations:

Maximum Fetch The wave climate of a particular point cannot be characterized by effective fetch alone because waves may be generated in an area remote from the shore unit and propagate into the area of the shore unit. These waves are commonly refered to as swell. A good BC example is that of the Juan de Fuca Strait where waves are generated locally (indexed by effective fetch) and are relatively small, but large swell, generated in the open Pacific, can penetrate into the Strait. The maximum fetch of a shoreunit is intended to provide an index of the swell waves and, to a lesser extent, refraction effects. The Maximum Fetch is the maximum fetch distance in kilometres that can be measured from a centre point of the estuary. Wave Climate Fields for Calculation of Estuary Wave Exposure

There are several wave climate data fields that need to be calculated to determine the wave exposure of the estuary. These are defined below: Maximum Fetch Direction - the azimuth (in degrees from true north) of the direction of the maximum fetch. Maximum Fetch Distance - the distance in kilometres of the maximum fetch as measured along the Maximum Fetch Direction. Shore Normal Direction - the azimuth (in degrees from true north) of the normal to the general orientation of the shore unit. That is, if the general trend of the shoreline is from northwest to southeast with open water to the east), then the Shore Normal Direction would be 45o. Fetch Distances - the distances in kilometres as measured along a line 45o to the left of the Shore Normal, along the Shore Normal and along a line 45o to the right of the Shore Normal. Modified Effective Fetch - the distance in kilometres as calculated from the Fetch Distance Measurements. Exposure Category - the exposure category provides a summary indicator of wave exposure for the unit. The following classes of wave exposure have been utilized and are derived from knowledge of Maximum Fetch and Modified Effective Fetch. These are accompanied with the appropriate code for entry in the wave exposure attribute of the project and overview database, and definition. VP P SP SE Very Protected : Protected: Semi-protected: Semi-exposed : Maximum wave fetch less than one kilometre; usually the location of all-weather anchorages, marinas and harbours. Maximum wave fetch less than 10 km; usually areas of provisional anchorages and low wave exposure except in extreme winds. Maximum wave fetch distances in the range of 10 to 50 km. Waves are low most of the time except during high winds. Maximum wave fetch distances between 50 and 500 km. Swells, generated in areas distant from the shore unit create relatively high wave conditions. During storms, extremely large waves create high wave exposures Maximum wave fetch distances greater than 500 km. High ambient wave conditions usually prevail within this exposure category, which is typical of open-Pacific type conditions.

Exposed:

Effective and maximum fetch wave exposure Matrix Modified effective fetch (km)

Maximum fetch (km) <10 10 - 50 50 - 500 >500

<1 Very protected N/a N/a N/a

1-10 Protected Semiprotected Semi-exposed N/a

10 - 50 N/a Semi-protected Semi-exposed Semi-exposed

50 - 500 N/a N/a Semiexposed Exposed

>500 N/a N/a N/a Exposed

This procedure, although preliminary and subject to refinement, offers an objective, repeatable basis for estimating wave exposure. Wave exposure, in turn, is of critical importance in determining species distribution, sediment mobility and a variety of other shore processes.

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c Gravity Of General Materials Table

is a data information resource for the specific gravity of many common general materials. While the data is extremely useful for design samples will probably differ. Temperature and purity will often have a definite effect. As 1000kg of pure water @ 4C = 1 cubic meter, under 1000kg per cubic meter will float; more dense materials will obviously sink. Those materials have a specific gravity more than 1. C (the maximum density) was chosen as the accepted standard for specific gravity and given the value of 1. Some other standards set 0F as sg = 1 so it is more correct to state the base used. The specific gravity of all other materials are compared to water as a fraction n lighter density, no matter how small or large the fraction is. For example, ammonium nitrate has a specific gravity (sg) of 0.73 while d m sulphate has a sg of 1.13 (1130 kilograms/cubic meter). As specific gravity is just a comparison, it can be applied across any units. Th ater is also 62.4 lbs/cu.ft (pounds per cubic foot) and if we know that a sample of ammonium nitrate has a sg of 0.73 then we can calcu is 0.73 x 62.4 = 45.552 lbs/cu.ft. As general information, kg/cu.m divided by 16.01846 = lbs/cu.ft.

th the table, unit converters are included at the top of the chart. Enter values in either side of the equation.

lso be interested in the Specific Gravity And Viscosity Of Liquids Table ravity Of Liquids Table ravity Of Wood Table ravity Of Metals Table

Unit Conversions Grams


1

.001

Kilograms

Pounds per Cubic Foot

16.01846

Kilograms per Cubic Meter

Specific Gravity Table Material - powder, ore, solids, etc. Alfalfa, ground Alum, lumpy Alum, pulverized kg/cu.m 256 881 753

Alumina Aluminum, oxide Ammonia gas Ammonium Nitrate Ammonium Sulphate - dry Ammonium Sulphate - wet Andesite, solid Antimony, cast Apples Arsenic Asbestos - shredded Asbestos rock Ashes - wet Ashes - dry Asphalt, crushed Babbitt Bagasse

961 1522 0.77 730 1130 1290 2771 6696 641 5671 320- 400 1600 730- 890 570- 650 721 7272 120

Bakelite, solid Baking powder Barium Bark, wood refuse Barley Barite, crushed Basalt, broken Basalt, solid Bauxite, crushed Beans, castor Beans, cocoa Beans, navy Beans, soy Beeswax Beets Bentonite Bicarbonate of soda

1362 721 3780 240 609 2883 1954 3011 1281 577 593 801 721 961 721 593 689

Bismuth Bones, pulverized Borax, fine Bran Brewers grain Brick, common red Brick, fire clay Brick, silica Brick, chrome Brick, magnesia Buckwheat Butter Cadmium Calcium carbide Caliche Carbon, solid Carbon, powdered

9787 881 849 256 432 1922 2403 2050 2803 2563 657 865 8650 1201 1442 2146 80

Carbon dioxide Carbon monoxide Cardboard Cement - clinker Cement, Portland Cement, mortar Cement, slurry Chalk, solid Chalk, lumpy Chalk, fine Charcoal Chloroform Chocolate, powder Chromic acid, flake Chromium Chromium ore Cinders, furnace

1.98 1.25 689 1290-1540 1506 2162 1442 2499 1442 1121 208 1522 641 1201 6856 2162 913

Cinders, Coal, ash Clay, dry excavated Clay, wet excavated Clay, dry lump Clay, fire Clay, wet lump Clay, compacted Clover seed Coal, Anthracite, solid Coal, Anthracite, broken Coal, Bituminous, solid Coal, Bituminous, broken Cobaltite ( cobolt ore ) Coconut, meal Coconut, shredded Coffee, fresh beans Coffee, roast beans

641 1089 1826 1073 1362 1602 1746 769 1506 1105 1346 833 6295 513 352 561 432

Coke Concrete, Asphalt Concrete, Gravel Concrete, Limestone with Portland Copper ore Copper sulfate, ground Copra, medium size Copra, meal, ground Copra, expeller cake ground Copra, expeller cake chopped Cork, solid Cork, ground Corn, on the cob Corn, shelled Corn, grits Cottonseed, dry, de-linted Cottonseed, dry, not de-linted

570- 650 2243 2403 2371 1940-2590 3604 529 641 513 465 240 160 721 721 673 561 320

Cottonseed, cake, lumpy Cottonseed, hulls Cottonseed, meal Cottonseed, meats Cottonwood Cryolite Cullet Culm Dolomite, solid Dolomite, pulverized Dolomite, lumpy Earth, loam, dry, excavated Earth, moist, excavated Earth, wet, excavated Earth, dense Earth, soft loose mud Earth, packed

673 192 593 641 416 1602 1602 753 2899 737 1522 1249 1442 1602 2002 1730 1522

Earth, Fullers, raw Emery Ether Feldspar, solid Feldspar, pulverized Fertilizer, acid phosphate Fish, scrap Fish, meal Flaxseed, whole Flint - silica Flour, wheat Flue dust Fluorspar, solid Fluorspar, lumps Fluorspar, pulverized Fullers Earth - raw or burnt Galena ( lead ore )

673 4005 737 2563 1233 961 721 593 721 1390 593 1450-2020 3204 1602 1442 570- 730 7400 - 7600

Garbage, household rubbish Glass - broken or cullet Glass, window Glue, animal, flaked Glue, vegetable, powdered Gluten, meal Gneiss, bed in place Gneiss, broken Granite, solid Granite, broken Graphite, flake Grain - Maize Grain - Barley Grain - Millet Grain - Wheat Gravel, loose, dry Gravel, with sand, natural

481 1290-1940 2579 561 641 625 2867 1858 2691 1650 641 760 600 760- 800 780- 800 1522 1922

Gravel, dry 1/4 to 2 inch Gravel, wet 1/4 to 2 inch Gummite ( uranium ore ) Gypsum, solid Gypsum, broken Gypsum, crushed Gypsum, pulverized Halite (salt), solid Halite (salt), broken Hematite ( iron ore ) Hemimorphite ( zinc ore ) Hydrochloric acid 40% Ice, solid Ice, crushed Ilmenite Iridium Iron ore - crushed

1682 2002 3890 - 6400 2787 1290-1600 1602 1121 2323 1506 5095 - 5205 3395 - 3490 1201 919 593 2307 22154 2100-2900

Iron oxide pigment Iron Pyrites Iron sulphate - pickling tank - dry Iron sulphate - pickling tank - wet Ivory Kaolin, green crushed Kaolin, pulverized Lead, rolledtd> Lead, red Lead, white pigment Leather Lignite, dry Lime, quick, lump Lime, quick, fine Lime, stone, large Lime, stone, lump Lime, hydrated

400 2400 1200 1290 1842 1025 352 11389 3684 4085 945 801 849 1201 2691 1538 481

Lime, wet or mortar Limonite, solid Limonite, broken Limestone, solid Limestone, broken Limestone, pulverized Linseed, whole Linseed, meal Locust, dry Magnesite, solid Magnesium oxide Magnesium sulphate, crystal Magnetite, solid ( iron ore ) Magnetite, broken Malachite ( copper ore ) Malt Manganese, solid

1540 3796 2467 2611 1554 1394 753 513 705 3011 1940 1121 5046 3284 3750 - 3960 336 7609

Manganese oxide Manure Marble, solid Marble, broken Marl, wet, excavated Mica, solid Mica, broken Mica - flake Mica - powder Milk, powdered Molybdenum ore Mortar, wet Mud, packed Mud, fluid Nickel ore Nickel, rolled Nickel silver

1922 400 2563 1570 2243 2883 1602 520 986 449 1600 2403 1906 1730 1600 8666 8442

Nitric acid, 91% Nitrogen Oak, red Oats Oats, rolled Oil cake Oil, linseed Oil, petroleum Oxygen Oyster shells, ground Paper, standard Peanuts, shelled Peanuts, not shelled Peat, dry Peat, moist Peat, wet Pecan wood

1506 1.26 705 432 304 785 942 881 1.43 849 1201 641 272 400 801 1121 753

Phosphate rock, broken Phosphorus Pitch Plaster Platinum ore Porcelain Porphyry, solid Porphyry, broken Potash Potassium chloride Potatoes, white Pumice, stone Pyrite (fool's gold) Quartz, solid Quartz, lump Quartz sand Resin, synthetic, crushed

1762 2339 1153 849 2600 2403 2547 1650 1281 2002 769 641 2400 - 5015 2643 1554 1201 561

Rice, hulled Rice, rough Rice grits Rip-Rap Rock - soft - excavated with shovel Rosin Rubber, caoutchouc Rubber, manufactured Rubber, ground scrap Rye Salt cake Salt, course Salt, fine Saltpeter Sand, wet Sand, wet, packed Sand, dry

753 577 689 1602 1600-1780 1073 945 1522 481 705 1442 801 1201 1201 1922 2082 1602

Sand, loose Sand, rammed Sand, water filled Sand with Gravel, dry Sand with Gravel, wet Sandstone, solid Sandstone, broken Sawdust Sewage, sludge Shale, solid Shale, broken Shells - oyster Sinter Slag, solid Slag, broken Slag, crushed, 1/4 inch Slag, furn. granulated

1442 1682 1922 1650 2020 2323 1370-1450 210 721 2675 1586 800 1600-2180 2114 1762 1185 961

Slate, solid Slate, broken Slate, pulverized Smithsonite ( zinc ore ) Snow, freshly fallen Snow, compacted Soap, solid Soap, chips Soap, flakes Soap, powdered Soapstone talc Soda Ash, heavy Soda Ash, light Sodium Sodium Aluminate, ground Sodium Nitrate, ground Soy beans, whole

2691 1290-1450 1362 4300 160 481 801 160 160 368 2400 1080 432 977 1153 1201 753

Starch, powdered Stone, crushed Stone (common, generic) Sugar, brown Sugar, powdered Sugar, granulated Sugar, raw cane Sugarbeet pulp, dry Sugarbeet pulp, wet Sugarcane Sulphur, solid Sulphur, lump Sulphur, pulverized Taconite Talc, solid Talc, broken Tanbark, ground

561 1602 2515 721 801 849 961 208 561 272 2002 1314 961 2803 2691 1746 881

Tankage Tar Tobacco Trap rock, solid Trap rock, broken Turf Turpentine Walnut, black, dry Water, pure Water, seatd> Wheat Wheat, cracked Wood chips - dry Wool Zinc oxide

961 1153 320 2883 1746 400 865 609 1000 1026 769 673 240- 520 1314 400

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