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TISRI WAD
(Small, Black Hard-Shelled Clam Fritters/ makes 17-20 fritters) ABOUT THE DISH: These are so unusual you have to try this dish at least once. It's New Orleans meets India. I serve these wad as finger food without a sauce, just a squeeze of lime to highlight the flavour of the clams. Around 2-3 kg of clams will give you about 1 cup of clam meat.
Method:
the clams. Squeeze them several times. The liquid can be added to a fish curry or a seafood stock. Cover and reserve the drained clams in a sieve. Grind the spice paste ingredients to a coarse consistency without any water or oil in a food processor. Stir the clams into the spice paste with the rice flour and pulse just once to incorporate the clams and spices. Do not grind to a paste. The clams must not be whole but they must not be blitzed either. Remove and transfer to a bowl. Mix in the onions and salt to form a loose dough. Put the semolina on a plate. Make small balls, about " wide of the clam mix between your palms and pat each ball in the semolina. Flatten slightly between your palms, till the dough keeps its shape and holds together. Arrange on a plate. Pour 1" of oil into a non-stick frying pan and put it on medium heat. > When the oil is hot, but not smoking, fry the clam fritters till golden and crisp. Drain on paper towels and serve warm with a crisp
Ingredients:
1 cup freshly shelled and washed, raw clams or tisri 1 tsp rice flour 1 tbsp very finely chopped red or white onions tsp salt or to taste cup fine semolina or rava/sooji vegetable oil for frying
Tara Deshpande Tennebaums cookbook, A Sense for Spice explores the culinary treasures of the Konkan region on Indias West coast through a unique chronicle that whips up recipes, rare ingredients and family stories
SPICE PASTE
cup finely grated fresh; or frozen, defrosted, unsweetened coconut 2 tsp Karwari sambhar powder or methkoot or use a commercial sambhar powder tsp cayenne pepper powder or red chilli powder ? tsp turmeric powder tsp tamarind past
Author Tara Deshpande Tennebaum at a market in her ancestral hometown Karwar. PIC COURTESY / A SENSE FOR SPICE, WESTLAND BOOKS
KARWARI SAMBHAR
(Lentil and Vegetable Stew/ 6 servings) ABOUT THE DISH: My favourite lentil preparation, this is more like a stew than a curry. This sambhar is much thicker than its famous south Indian cousin with a variety of vegetables including drumsticks, pumpkin, baby aubergine and okra. Its a wonderful, nutritious meal. Serve it with plain, boiled white or brown rice. Kolombyo is another Konkani-style sambhar with a thinner consistency and fewer vegetables. 1"- 2" long, finely chopped 12 fresh curry leaves, torn 3 tbsp peeled, julienned fresh ginger root cup finely chopped white onions
DHARA VORA
dhara.vora@mid-day.com
Maharashtra, like other Indian states, has a long list of communities based on caste and clans; despite this difference, Marathi and its dialects happen to be the spoken language for most of them. But there is one group, which shares a culinary bond due to their geographic location Maharashtra, Goa and Karnataka (hence, different languages): the Konkan Coast inhabitants. A Sense for Spice by Tara Deshpande Tennebaum, aims to introduce readers to this culinary trail along Indias West coast that starts from Raigad in Maharashtra and ends in Mangalore in Karnataka. The author says that for purposes of the book, she has stuck to this region,; however, the exact geography of the coast is arguable (some research books refer to the coast in Karnataka as Kanara coast). Since, this strip spans these three states, each locality has added its local flavours and resulted in a long list of recipes. The author narrates instead of
merely doling out recipes, in story form of the times spent with her grandparents in Belgaum and Karwar. Tara gives a sufficiently deep insight into the history of the Konkan coast; the communities which live in these parts; the ingredients found in the region; and essential cooking terms and methods that one needs to know in order to get into the Konkan kitchen. If doubts remain, browse through the exhaustive, informative glossary so you can figure the difference between poh and pol.
Method:
Wash the dal and drain. Put the dal in a large heavy-bottomed pan that has a tight-fitting lid with the sambhar or Kumta masala powder, turmeric powder, sugar, tamarind paste and 8 cups of water. Cover and boil for about 50 minutes on medium heat, stirring occasionally. Alternatively, pressure-cook for 20 minutes with 6 cups of water on low heat after the cooker reaches full pressure. Add the potatoes and pumpkin and boil for about 5 minutes or pressure-cook for 3 minutes with 1-2 additonal cups of water.
Add the remaining vegetables and simmer till they are tender and the tomatoes and dal have disintegrated, or pressure-cook for 10 minutes. Put the ghee or oil for tempering in a skillet on high heat. Add the remaining ingredients, except the onions. Cook for 30-60 seconds, till the spices splutter and are fragrant. Add the onions and saut for 1 minute. Pour the contents of the skillet into the hot dal and stir well. Pour 1 cup of water into the skillet, mop up the spiced oil and pour it over the lentils. Simmer for another 10 minutes. Mix in the salt. Adjust the spices and sugar. Serve hot with plain, boiled, white or brown rice.
Ingredients:
250 gms husked, split pigeon peas or toor/arhar dal cup Karwari sambhar or Kumta masala powder 1 tsp turmeric powder 2 tsp granulated or coarse sugar 2 tbsp tamarind paste 3 potatoes, diced into 1" cubes, soaked in water 250 gms peeled, diced red pumpkin 8-10 pearl or sambhar onions, peeled (optional) 5 okra or bhindi, washed, dried completely, sliced lengthwise 8 baby aubergines, stalks removed, quartered cup finely chopped fresh coriander leaves 200 gms baby grape tomatoes or chopped red tomatoes 1 tsp salt or to taste
A Sense For Spice: Recipes and Stories from a Konkan Kitchen, Tara Deshpande Tennebaum, Westland, R495. Available at leading bookstores.
TEMPERING
5 tbsp ghee or vegetable oil 2 tsp black mustard seeds tsp cumin seeds a pinch of asafoetida powder 4 green chillies,