JUNIOR BACKHOE

Half-pint sidewalk superintendents will go ape for this boy-size, rugged, easy-to-build digger.
By C. L. Widdicombe
NY healthy lad can do wonderful A things with a little loose dirt but a boy with his own backhoe is an earthmoving hero. This stout, boy-size toy is rugged but it won't gouge rocks out of a quarry or do much of a job in hard clay. Spaded backyard earth or beach sand are its natural elements. The scoop can take out enough fill to
96

load the average toy truck, and the boom swings in a complete circle. The caterpillar treads rotate freely enough to permit moving the backhoe about. Begin with the caterpillar links (see first drawing). These are of maple or any suitable hardwood. The links are notched at either end to form a tongueand-groove joint. Corner cuts are sawed; surplus material between

Mechanix Illustrated

tongues is removed with a dado head. The side view of the link shows a 5/16 inch hole bored through the width at each end. This hole must be exactly the same and perfectly true in each link so it is wise to improvise a jig for the boring operation (no pun intended). The side view of each link also shows a 3/8 radius at each end. To get this, cut the corners at a 45 deg. Angle and

sand off excess material very carefully. Sand edges and corners and apply a liberal coat of clear shellac. Rub down with steel wool when dry and add three coats of black enamel. Assemble the treads with bolts, flat washers, spring Washers and nutsbut dont turn nuts down too tight as this might damage the joints. Wheels. (first drawing). Each wheel

June 1965

98

Mechanix Illustrated

assembly is made of two outer circles of 3/4-in. Novaply or plywood and one center circle of half-in. Novaply or plywood. The outer circles are 7 1/8-in. diameter; the inner circle is 6 1/8-in. diameter. Bore a half-in. hole through the center of each of the 12 wheel pieces. To assemble the wheels, spread glue on the surfaces to be bonded, pass a half-in.

bolt through the holes and clamp. Run in four 11/2-inch No. 10 flathead steel screws well countersunk and staggered. Shellac the wheels and enamel them red. Frame sides. (First drawing.) These are of 3/4-inch plywood. Tack together the pieces from which they are to be made and cut [Continued on page 128]

WHEELS are secured with 41/2x41/2-inch carriage bolts, flat washers, lock washers.

ARMS are sanded, then attached to spacer block. Bolt through pivot hole aligns them.

SEAT and boom assembly as it looks when complete. Seat back is of bent plywood.

SCOOP, assembled. Scoop will not dig in compacted earthit's for loose earth, sand.

June, 1965

Junior Backhoe
[Continued from page 99] them out as a single unit. This must be done twice because you need four of the frame sides (see drawing). Assemble two pairs of frame sides on spacer blocks as shown. Secure the wheels to the frames and mount the tracks on the wheels. Frame spacers are cut as shown and frame side and track assemblies attached. Make the swivel plate (the platform that rides on the frame spacers) and mount it on spacers. Make a plate ring of two thicknesses of 3/4-inch plywood and mount on swivel plate. Use glue as well as screws to mount ring on plate. Entire frame unit is shellacked and enameled red. The seat itself and the seat cap need no explanation; the second drawing makes construction of them plain. The seat back is another matter. Cut a piece of straightgrain, solid-core 3/4-inch plywood to the size shown. Bore the three 5/32-inch holes. Round off the corners. Take a sharp, thin plywood saw and make a series of vertical cuts as indicated in the drawing. These should be just deep enough to touch the veneer on the other side of the plywood. Start the cuts a half-in. to either side of the center of the seatback and make them about a quarter-in, apart for 5 inches to either side. These cuts permit the back to be bent as required. Assemble the seat as shown. Boom. (Second drawing.) This is made of two pieces of 3/4-in. plywood separated by a spacer block of the same material or of 3/4-in. solid stock. Cut the two boom sides from two pieces temporarily tacked together. While they are together bore the pivot hole and sand out saw marks and rough edges. Separate the two pieces and remove sharp edge on each. Attach them to spacer block with four 1 3/4-in. No. 10 flathead steel screws through each side. Boom base. Cut out as shown in second drawing and attach to boom with four twoin. No. 10 flathead screws. Make the boom base circle as shown and attach to boom base. Attach four two-in. diameter rubber-wheel casters to the corners of the boom base. Attach seat to boom. Shellac the entire unit and enamel yellow. Bucket and bucket arm details are shown on the first drawing, along with dimensions of the boom arm. Details of boom-arm lever, bucket-arm lever, connector and manner of assembling these components are shown on the second drawing. Levers should be of hardwood. This entire assembly should be shellacked and varnished, leaving it natural. Use a good spar varnish. Give the edge of the boom base circle a liberal coat of paste wax, as well as inside of the swivel-plate ring. Final step: hide in the attic until Christmas. When the day comes, tell the boy it's from Daddy. Let Santa Claus make his own way.

158

LAMINATED CONSTRUCTION gether to f o r m the c o m p l e t ed s h a p e , using a h a l f - l a p joint. You can use a r e g u l a r half l a p or one w i t h a center piece set in as i n d i c a t e d , the latter b e i n g s t r o n g e r . A joint is necessary to p r e v e n t s p l i t t i n g in the center. Foll o w the p h o t o s a n d d i a g r a m s in g l u i n g up the joint. The t o p surface is r o u n d e d a n d the b o t t o m is f l a t except at the tips w h e r e it is b e v e l e d . I f y o u t h r o w lefth a n d e d , b e v e l the corners opposite t h o s e indicated. N o r m a l f l i g h t is s h o w n below. The d i a g r a m s also show some of the results of f a u l t y construction a n d h o w to correct t h e m . In t h r o w i n g , use p l e n t y o f w r i s t act i o n f o r a f a s t s p i n , y e t not t o o m u c h , as i n d i c a t e d in the l o w e r left h a n d d i a g r a m . Test the b o o m e r a n g on a calm d a y as it is erratic in a breeze

LAMINATED CONSTRUCTION IS STRONG AND HOLDS ITS SHAPE

" \

RETURNS IN WIDE SWEEPING CURVE TO LEFT

a J

RETURNS TO THROWER NORMAL FLIGHT OF BOOMERANG

159

 JUNIOR'S EARTH-MOVING and road-building programs will be greatly extended with this toy power shovel. Comfortably seated on the cab, he pushes himself about and can swivel in any direction. One control lever operates the boom, another the shovel position, while a push rod opens and closes the shovel. There's also a winch to use as a "stump puller," and the cab opens to store valuables. Dummy traction treads are mounted on two pairs of holders, each pair fitted with spacers. The four pieces having rounded ends are stacked and clamped together so axle holes can be drilled in alignment. Two of these pieces are assembled to a T-shaped crosspiece with waterproof glue and screws. Then the spacers are glued and nailed on and the two outside pieces are attached similarly. The cleated treads are made from two strips of 3/8-in. white pine. Saw kerfs 5/16 in. deep, and spaced 3/4 in., are cut across them. The strips are soaked with water at points where they are to be bent over the rounded ends of the tread holders. The treads are cut out to fit around the ends of the chassis crosspiece, and are attached with waterproof glue and brads, two brads to each cleat. Treads project 1/4 in. beyond the outer tread holders. Ends of the axles come almost flush with the outer surface of the tread holders. Axles are drilled for cotter pins, then slipped through one tread holder, wheels and washers added, then slipped through the other tread holder, after which the cotter pins are installed. Use 5-in. rubber-tired wheels which will project % in. below the tread holders. Dummy drive and bearing wheels for treads can be made of cardboard (Bristol board) as shown in the lower right detail on page 2342. They are glued and bradded in place, later painted and then coated with spar varnish to seal out moisture. The bearing wheels also can

Little digger for junior engineers

By RON ANDERSON

Junior construction engineers can ride this toy power shovel that operates realistically by using hand controls

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2342

be cut from tin cans or from polyethylene-plastic food containers. Wooden side plates, projecting over the drive wheels and fitting between the bearing wheels, are nailed on. A 4-in. standard lazy-susan bearing is screwed to the chassis crosspiece. Later, after cab assembly, the upper plate of the bearing is screwed to the cab bottom, it being possible to drive the screws when the top plate is turned 45 deg. as shown in lower left detail on this page. If you can't get such a bearing, just use two 3-in. metal disks drilled centrally and greased to reduce friction, assembling these on a bolt with large washers under head and nut. The shovel arm, its two sides, and the control levers are made of 3/4-in. wood, while the back, bottom and front are 1/4-in. stock. A 1-in. angle bracket, twisted at one end, forms the mending plate on the hinge and connects to a push rod which opens and closes the bottom of the shovel.

The push rod passes through a screw eye which is turned down far enough to provide friction on the rod and prevents the shovel from opening by itself. A ball knob is drilled to fit on the end of the push rod and is pinned to it. Control levers and boom pivot on a bolt that passes through the boom mount, washers being used between the parts. The boom mount is drilled at both ends and is fastened to the cab bottom with screws, no glue being used. Front and back have two slots that fit over the boom mount. After assembling the cab it is set over the boom mount and on the bottom. Wood screws then are driven through the bottom into the sides. An ordinary door bolt on the cab side locks it to the chassis crosspiece. A screw hook on the cab front engages a screw eye on the boom-control lever to hold the shovel up when it is in traveling position. The winch is installed on the rear end of the

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boom mount. There should be enough clearance between the winch drum and the boom mount so the drum can move endwise permitting a bolt at the end of the crank to slide between two pins on the boom mount to lock the winch. Nylon cord is fastened to the drum and is provided with an S-hook made of No. 11 -ga. wire, for easy attachment to objects to be pulled. When not in use the cord is wound up on the drum and the S-hook is clipped in a screw eye on the cab. It is advisable to partly disassemble the unit for painting. The chassis is flat black; the treads and dummy wheels are aluminum and the side plates red. The cab is red as are the handles of the control levers. The rest of the levers are black, as are the doors, windows, boom mount and the ventilating grille, which is cut from ordinary screen and tacked in place.

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You'll love the old flipperdingers, whimmydiddles, and their country cousins now being made in the Southern mountains By Henry B. Comstock Hicks families. Could they turn out these toys in quantity, he asked, if he helped with patterns and found the outlets? Small initial orders, placed by gift shops throughout the Asheville-Great Smoky Mountains National Park area were followed quickly by big ones. Visiting youngsters from 50 states were going for the toys like corn pone. So were their fathers. Swinging a whizzer vigorously, one red-faced tourist puffed: "They've got the wrong name on this one. Back where I come from, we used to call it a bullroarer." Chase knows better than to argue. A

ODAY, a group of North Carolina mountain boys are busy carving a niche with their jackknives in the highly competitive toy industry. They all work in their homes around Beech Creek, a region just a whoop and a holler west of Boone, N. C. Their products are faithful copies of folk toys that have delighted children of the Southern Appalachians for two centuries or more. Wonderful gadgets are these, made of bits of laurel and rhododendron, seasoned hickory, red cedar, river cane, and acorn cups. The idea of reviving interest in, and a market for, these folk toys came from Richard Chase, authority on the folk traditions of the Appalachian South. One day Chase wondered if there wasn't still a place for such old-time favorites as the gee-haw whimmydiddle, flipperdinger, fly killer, whizzer, and cornstalk fiddle. With encouragement from the Southern Highland Handicraft Guild, he talked over the idea with his nearest neighbors Jack Guy, 31; Sam Ward, 70; Clint Harmon, 16; Dexter Stines, 16; Bill Stines, 14; Jerry Greene, 13; and the Guy and

CONTINUED

1 4 5

thorough researcher, he's found that none of these playthings are peculiar to the Appalachian South. The whimmydiddle, for example, has been reported from Sweden and China. And a Czechoslovakian book on early Central European toys describes many such items. The important thing is not who invented these toys, or what they're called. It's the fact that they are bringing employment to one small Southern mountain settlement. The profits of Folk Toys Industry, Beech Creek, N. C, go into the local work of the Council of the Southern Mountains, an organization dedicated to helping rural families. And now, just in case you don't know what a whimmydiddle isor a flipperdinger, fly killer, bullroarer, or cornstalk fiddlehere's a rundown: Gee-haw whimmydiddle, also called a ziggerboo (Tenn.), geehaw (Ga.),hoodoo stick (Cherokee Indians), and lie detector (Ohio). In the Folk Toys' version, it's made of rhododendron twigs, stripped to the smooth inner bark. Its two parts are a notched stick with a spinneror whirligigpivoted on one end, and a smaller rubbing stick. In operating the whimmydiddle, the
146 POPULAR SCIENCE MARCH 1960

object is to make the whirligig spin smoothly to the right (gee), or to the left (haw), seemingly at your spoken command. To do this, you must hold both parts lightly to produce maximum vibration. This vibration is set up when you stroke the rubbing stick rapidly back and forth across the notches. If, at the same time, you let the tip of your index finger slide along the far side of the notches, the whirligig will twirl unfailingly to the right. To reverse its direction, you simply bring your thumb to bear on the near side of the notches. With a little practice, you can switch contacts so inconspicuously that anyone who doesn't know the trick will have a hard time guessing why the whirligig responds. Flipperdinger. This is a hollow-reed blower with a plug in one end, and a nozzle, made of a smaller reed, projecting from it just behind the plug. In one model, an acorn cup with its center bored out is cemented over the nozzle. In another, a little "basketball ring" bent from copper wire is aligned with the nozzle about three inches above the tip. Both models come with a featherweight ball formed from cornstalk pith. To work the first flipperdinger, you

place the pith ball in the acorn cup and blow lightly but steadily into the open end of the larger reed. When done right, the ball rises slowly in a jet stream of air, hovers a few inches above the nozzle, and then as you ease off, settles back. The other flipperdinger is harder to master. Here the pith ball has a wire thrust through itone with a crook in one end. You hang the crook over the basketball ring. Then, with plenty of well-controlled lung power, you can unhook the ball, lower it through the ring, and, finally, blow it back up again and replace the crook on the wire. Fly killer. This potent and fairly accurate little weapon could almost be called a one-armed crossbow. It has a barrel made of a short elderberry stick with its forward end hollowed out, and a long slot cut through its side wall and into this cavity. Near the back of the barrel a strip of seasoned hickory is fastened in an angled notch with a wood screw. The other end of the hickory strip is slimmed down and bent in a permanent bow by soaking. In cocked position, the pointed tip of the bow is placed in the slot and drawn back until it enters a hole in the opposite side of the barrel.

This depresses a trigger made from a sliver of springy wood. To load the fly killer, you slip a flatheaded wood shaft into it. Pressing the trigger pops the bow tip out of the hole and sends it flying forward in the slot, snapping the missile out with enough force to shatter a window at 10 paces. Bullroarer. Simplest of the toys, the bullroarer (whizzer) is a thin cedar paddle attached to a rhododendron handle with a doubled length of stout cord. When it's swung in circles through the air, it makes an awesome, buzzing sound. A copper-wire swivel on the handle prevents the cord from winding around the wood. Cornstalk fiddle. Not even a tone-deaf Cherokee could confuse this with a Stradivarius. But for caterwauls that would make a mountain lion lift his eyebrows, you can't beat a two-string cornstalk fiddle. Instrument and bow have strips of their bark slit in such a way that, with "bridges" formed of twigs inserted beneath them, they become tensioned bow and fiddle strings. Properly rosined before it leaves the Folk Toys Industry workshop, a cornstalk fiddle is good for months of ear-piercing screeches. 1 4 7

This go-round puts kids in orbit

By DAVID A. GATTIS

You DON'T NEED NASA to put your kids in orbit. They'll really get a blast out of this attachment that adds whiz-around variety to the backand-forth motion of a set of swings. If your back yard is already graced with a sturdy swingset, you can add the whole pedal-plane unit at a cost of about $14 for materials. The only power tools you'll need: an electric drill and an arc welder. Don't own the latter? Then you can prepare all

If you have a backyard swing set, you can add this flyer to it and give it all the thrills of a big-time amusement park. No swing set? Then hang it from its own freestanding pole. Either way, you'll be the hero of the local merry-go-round set

pieces for assembly and take them to a welding shop. If you don't have a swingset now, you can erect the pedal-plane as a separate unit, taking a bit more care with the "planting" of the pivot pole, and adding prop-type supports. Roller and ball bearings eliminate virtually all drag, making the rotating mechanism surprisingly easy to operate. A three-year-old can "solo" at speeds up to 15 mph (circular miles) at an altitude of from 1 to 4 ft. The unit is designed for youngsters under 120 lbs., but additional supports could be added to adapt it for larger children. The truss and center post have been tested at over 200 lbs., but with this weight applied, only the most rugged swingset frames will provide necessary bracing. In the sketch on page 1693, we show a twoseater unit, for small youngsters, balanced by a single-seater for older kids. In this arrangement, you've got a double pedal action, with both drive belts bearing on the same bicycle rim. But as the sketch on page 1694 indicates, a single pedalplane unit will spin the structure nicely, and you can provide balance by hanging a baby swing, basket, hobby horse or what have you from the other end of the beam. Surprisingly, the extra weight is hardly noticed by the pedaler. front seat provides tension The front of the seat unit actually hangs on the endless beltits weight is what gives this drive loop enough tension against the pivoted bicycle rim to send the whole unit spinning. The belt (1/4-in. manila rope for economy) passes around the pedal pulley, up through guide pulleys behind the wind-spun prop, up past pulleys on the end of the support beam and across to the central rim. The front chain is merely a safety factor, since the drive belt is subject to wear and could, in time, break; a small spring between a few top links keeps this chain taut in normal use. The rear chain is, of course, what holds the back of the plane up. It attaches about 2 ft. above the center of gravity, for stabilization. The belt is made by untwisting 12 in. of rope at one end and weaving the strands back through an untwisted portion of the other end. Trim off the loose ends and you've a splice that can't pull apart. To eliminate belt slippage, rubber electrical tape (or a strip of old inner-tube) is wrapped around the bicycle rim and a vacuumcleaner belt is snapped over the drive pulley. The plane unit itself is of the simplest possible

construction. The seat frame is a double bend of 1/2-in. water pipe; the size indicated is adequate for two seats for children 2 to 5 yrs. old, and the seat positions are adjustable. The fork of an old tricycle provides the drive mechanism. Remove the wheel, but leave the 1/2-in. shaft at the center. With the crank used, a 5/8-in. hole in the pulley just clears the elbows. After positioning the pulley shim the shaft with sheet-metal strips and, to eliminate slippage, drill the shaft to provide a seat for a setscrew. If no tricycle fork is available, suspend a bicycle crank between two hangers of steel plate, welded to the frame's front bend. make plywood pulleys Guide pulleys are made from %-in. waterproof plywood, with an old auto generator ball bearing epoxied in the center. Not owning a lathe, you can turn pulleys on a portable drill. Just insert a bolt through the center of each rough disk and chuck it in the drill, which is secured in an upright bracket. Then, with a round file, cut the edge groove about 3/8-in. wide and 1/2-in. deep. The bearing holes are cut with a circle cutter set for a diameter slightly less than that of the bearing. Degrease the outside of the bearing before applying epoxy and drive it into the hole; before the cement sets, align the bearing so the pulley will spin without wobble. The support post is 2-1/2-in. steel water pipethe length determined by the height of your swingset's top beam. Two U-bolts clamp the pipes together, and a length of 2 x 4 is bolted across the post's lower end to keep the pipe from sinking. Or you could provide a concrete footing. The hub and knuckle (spindle) were from an old Dodge front end; however, almost any type (except a ball joint) could be substituted. All parts attached to the hub and knuckle should be arc-welded to minimize heat distortion. You may have to modify the pipe to insert the knuckle shank. The knuckle-pipe weld should be as strong as possible. The main beams are two lengths of 1/2-in. pipe flattened on each end. These ends are bent and welded together after you weld the beams to the hub plates. If you want to add up-and-down motion, you could tilt the center pole or bolt the bicycle rim off center.

KITE TIME
R EQUIRING no tails to balance them in flight, here are three easy-to-make kites which will give you a lot of fun both in constructing and flying them. While dimensions given for the French war kite, Fig. 1, should be followed closely to assure perfect balance, the kite can be made any size provided the dimensions are increased proportionately. The sticks s h o u l d be lightweight wood such as bass, pine spruce

or ash. Slots V2 in. deep, to take the strings, are cut in the ends of each stick forming the outer edge of the kite. Now, begin assembling the pieces by laying the two upright sticks on the table, spacing them 12 in. apart, and lay the u p per crossbar over these in the position shown in Fig. 1. The sticks are notched 32 in. where they intersect and are c e mented with shellac and bound together in the m a n n e r shown. The lower crossbar is next notched to lap slightly over the uprights, being glued and bound as before. Now, to keep the kite from buckling, run a string through the slots in the sticks and lash the ends as shown. The center u p right is fitted in place, this being supported at each end with notched sticks to form a
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triangular shaped assembly. When dry, r u n a string around the inner edges of the triangles to support the covering and, then brace them with several cross strings
stretched on each side. Parchment or

lower triangle is made V2 in. wider than that on the upper one. This is done to correct balancing. The capacity of the wing surface should be smaller than the surface covering of the triangle. This prevents the kite from diving. T h e ends and center, you will notice, are left open. T h e wings are covered next, turning and gluing the edges over the strings as before. Do not pull the covering tight, but allow it to bag slightly to catch all the air currents. Protect the corners of the wings by reinforcing with an extra covering of paper. The bridle should be attached to the top and r u n to a point two-thirds the way down. T h e towing point should be 4 to 6 in. from the top. The simplicity of the bow kite, shown in Fig. 2, makes it very easy to construct. Here a cross strip, bowed 3% in. with a cord stretched through slots made in the ends, is notched %2 in. at midpoint as shown, to fit a similar notch cut in a center upright. When these two are joined a string is r u n around the outside of the kite and then the covering is applied as before. To make the box kite in Fig. 3, four slotted uprights of identical size are assembled into two pairs of corresponding units by notched cross sticks. The units are joined
then, into box-shape, and truss strings are

heavy-grade kite paper is the best covering material. Cellophane can be used also. Cover the three sides of the two t r i a n gles and fold and glue the edges of the paper over the string. The covering of the
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stretched from the corner slots to keep it rigid and straight. The paper covering is made V2 in. wider on the lower box than on the upper. The towing point should equal the length of the kite.

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Parachutes carried up to a lofty kite and automatically released when the carrier hits a cross stick tied in the kite line, will keep up a lively interest. The carrier must be lightweight and there should be very little friction on the line so that ascent of

the carrier will not be impeded. A cardboard sail and a parachute are held on a sliding member, which is pushed back when it strikes the cross stick, releasing sail and parachute. By going over the details you will see how the device -works.

Scale Markings on Kite String Aid in Measuring Distance

When a group of boys are flying kites in neighborhood competition meets to see who can pay out the most string and fly the greatest distance, it will help to m a r k the string with red .ink at intervals of 25, 50 or 100 ft. This is much better than the usual method of tying small ribbons to the string to serve as markers. Red is also highly visible and the marks can be seen for quite a distance, although the marks can be counted as the string is let out.

Novel Holder for Kite String

A wooden cleat riveted to a belt to go around your waist provides a novel holder for kite string. The string is wound on the cleat and is unwound as desired. If the end is tied to the cleat, there will be no danger of the kite getting away.

The hole saw is perfect for making the cutouts in the upper half of your Mancala board. If you don't have one, use a jigsaw for this job. To cut out scoring bins with a hole saw, make two overlapping hole cuts and trim the waste to leave a smooth side

Africa's most popular game has caught on in the United States. You can join in by making a playing board in your home workshop

Mancala
By VOLTA TORREY T H E NATIONAL GAME of Africa, known as "Mancala," has caught on with Americans. You can join in the fun by making a Mancala board in your home workshop. All you have to do is follow the details below. One of the oldest games in the world, Mancala is played by two people. The object is to capture the most counters. Each player places the same number of counters (coins, marbles, etc.) in six holes on his side of the board. You can start with six counters and use more as you gain proficiency. To begin the game, the first player picks up all the counters from any one of his six holes and distributes them to his right, placing one in each hole. If the last one lands in his scoring bin, he gets another turn, but otherwise the turn passes to his opponent.

If he has enough counters to go beyond his scoring bin, after dropping one there, he proceeds from right to left along his opponent's side of the board. When he can go around the other end (skipping the other player's scoring bin) and drop the last counter in any empty hole on his own side of the board, he captures all the counters in the hole opposite. The game of Mancala is over when all the holes on either side of the playing board are empty. The player with the most counters in his scoring bin is the winner. Mancala can be enjoyed by everyone except for the smallest youngster.

MERRY-GO-ROUNDS

BACKYARD MERRY-GO-ROUND
By Robert E, Wilson PRESENTING your youngsters with their very own merry-go-round will make you a very popular father, and your children will be the envy of every child in the neighborhood. Construction starts with digging a hole 20 in. square and 18 in. deep. In areas of severe cold, make the hole 30 in. deep. A form of 2 x 6s around the top of the excavation produces a concrete "pillar" that projects above ground level. Next obtain the front-wheel assembly from an autowrecking yard, including the spindle, bearings, backing plate and wheel. Be sure the bearings a r e in good condition. Drill four holes in the backing plate to accommodate four 1/2-in. bolts, 12 in, long. Suspend the spindle and backing plate, with the long bulls in place and nuts turned just hand-tight, over the excavation and fill it with concrete. After the concrete has seasoned several days, remove the nuts, install lock washers and tighten the nuts thoroughly so the backing plate is solid. Fit the inner bearing on the spindle, slip the brake drum in place and tighten the

large retaining nut. The wheel now is bolted to the drum. The next step is to build the 2 x 4 framework that supports the merry-go-round platform. Two pairs of 2 x 4s, 8 ft. long, are half-lapped as shown in the detail, and all joints strengthened with steel angles. Two 4 x 8-ft. sheets of 5/8-ln, exterior-grade plywood are nailed to the frame and bolted to the wheel. The intersection of diagonal lines from the comers of the platform locate the center from which is scribed an 8-ftdia. circle. Cut an opening at the center of the platform over the wheel nut. Power for the ride is supplied by a 1/4hp- electric motor. A 2-in. pulley on the motor is V-belted to a 4-in. pulley on the gearbox of an old washing-machine base. A 5-in. pulley is fitted on the vertical shaft of this gearbox. that originally rotated the wringer rollers. From this pulley a 56-in. V-belt is fitted around the car wheel. The platform on which the gearbox is bolted is hinged so the weight of the box keeps ten sion on the belt Speed of the ride is about 14 to 16 r.p.m* * *
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MERRY-GO-ROUNDS

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tical uses as well. In a store or other place where a person on duty cannot watch all parts of the establishment.

END

MIRROR

MIRROR

SIDE

VIEW

FRONT VIEW

This Simple Periscope Is Useful Both for Play and Practical Purposes

such a device is convenient in that it will reflect persons entering the door. As a toy or for experimental purposes the periscope shown has many possibilities, and will appeal to youngsters. It consists of a square box, 18 in. long, open at the ends. It is 3 in. wide and made of wood, .375 in. thick. A mirror is fitted at an angle of 45 near one end of the box or tube, as shown in the sketch. The front of the mirror is opposite a three-cornered opening in the box which extends across one side. The opposite end of the tube is also fitted with a mirror in the same manner, except that the front of the mirror faces to the opposite side of the box at which there is also an opening. In using this device, the user sights from the point indicated by the Useful Periscope Which a Boy eye. The image is reflected in the mirror at the top and thrown onto Can Make the lower mirror, where it may be seen Mention of periscopes is quite com- without exposing the head above the mon in the reports from European level of the lower opening. It is this battle fields; such a device in a simple application of reflection by mirrors that form can be made easily by boys who makes it possible for soldiers to see dishave fair skill with tools. The illus- tant objects without exposing themtration shows a periscope which may selves to fire, by the use of the peribe used for play, and has other prac- scope.

Kid-powered "squaris" wheel

DESIGNED PREPARED DUBBED A "SQUARIS WHEEL" by its designer By By ROBERT W. CLYDE WOOLSON LAMMEY

because of its square wheel, this pint-sized backyard version of its big brother, the ferris wheel, will bring safe carnival fun right to your own home. Braced to make it as sturdy as possible, the wheel is designed to operate on "kid power." That is, each time around, each passenger gives the wheel a backward push with his feet. There

If you'd like to start a carnival in your own yard, here's an unusual ride that can be fun for up to eight tots

The shafts on which the balanced bucket seats pivot also serve as safety bars. The mending plates on the side panels save wear at the shaft holes

is no danger of traveling too fast for safety, and no danger of falling out of the bucket seats, since the small riders are held in by a safety bar. Another safety feature is a set of wheel locks, which prevent the toy from being used when mom or dad can't be around to supervise getting on and getting off. As a first step in construction, carefully look over the pull-apart drawing on page 968. Note that many of the individual assemblies are detailed in the drawing on page 969. If you follow these details with care, the assembly will not be difficult. One word of caution: The base, the A-frames and the wheel spider are made of 2 x 4s. It is very important that you obtain clear, straight stock for these parts. There must be no knots, no weakening blemishes and no crooked pieces, as otherwise you may have trouble building and operating the wheel. wheel must run true The wheel must run true after assembly, and A-frames must stand plumb with the base leveled. The stand, which consists of the base and A-frame, must be set up and leveled on a solid foundation, made either by pouring a couple of narrow concrete slabs on a tampedgravel fill or two rows of concrete blocks placed on a tamped gravel fill. Then you level the structure by shimming up the low corners. Wooden shingles are just the thing for shimming. Although standard 2 x 4s are held to quite close sectional sizes, you may occasionally find some variations in widths and thicknesses. Usually it's a good idea to check before cutting stock as any appreciable variation might affect some of the dimensions given. no glue in assembly After you have a proper foundation, make the base, which consists of two lengthwise members and three cross members, the latter mortised the full thickness into the lengthwise members and joined with bolts. No glue is used in the entire assembly; only bolts and lagscrews. Next, you make the A-frames, joining at the top ends first as shown in one of the pulled-apart assemblies on page 969. When cutting the top ends of the A-frame members, or legs, lay out according to the detail and saw outside the line in the waste. This permits planing the cut surface to a smooth fit against the filler. The hole pattern on the inside and outside plywood gussets is identical except for the upper 1/4i-in. hole in each outside gusset. This hole takes

Pivoted wheel locks are provided as a safeguard to prevent use when no adults are present

the bent end of the pin, the lower end of which passes through a cross hole drilled near each end of the wheel shaft, preventing the latter from turning or working out of place. The shaft holes in both inside and outside gussets should be carefully located, but location of the bolt holes is not critical; just locate them uniform distances from the edges. To assure register of all bolt and shaft holes, drill the shaft holes first through both gussets and the filler piece, then insert the shaft, clamp the parts together and drill through all three thicknesses. Remember to check beforehand the diameter of the pipe which is used as a wheel shaft. With the top ends of the A-frames joined, bolt the legs to the base, plumb with a level and brace temporarily until you can install the permanent braces. The lower ends of the latter are joined to the center cross member of the base with lagscrews, the washered heads seating in pockets cut into the wide face of the brace with a chisel and gouge as indicated in the assembly view, A. The carriage-bolt heads at the top ends of the braces are seated in shallow counterbores, the large diameter of the latter being slightly larger than the bolt head. Tighten the bolts before releasing the temporary braces. Then check again for plumb. Next, make the wheel spiders, noting that in the pulled-apart view on page 969 each consists

968

of three members joined at the center to a plywood gusset, making four equally spaced spokes of equal length. Note also that there is a spacer between each wheel gusset and the inside gusset at the top end of each A-frame. These spacers can be band-sawed round as detailed or they can be squares center-drilled to a free fit on the wheel shaft. Assemble the wheel spiders on the shaft with the spacers in position, making sure that both turn freely. Then locate and drill the holes for the lagscrews which hold the four spreaders as in the detail, D. It's important to cut the ends of the spreaders square and all pieces to exact length. Drill a 1/4-in. hole edgewise near the end of each spoke, insert and tighten a carriage bolt in each of the holes to prevent the spoke ends from splitting. Then drill the 5/8-in. holes in the spokes for the shafts on which the seats pivot. The 1 x 2 wheel-spider braces are installed later. Assembly of the seats, sizes of the parts and the method of pivoting each seat are shown in detail. Cut four bottoms and four backs to the sizes given from 1/2-in. plywood, then eight end pieces from 3/4-in. plywood to the size given. Smooth all cut edges with sandpaper and then round them slightly. Be sure there are no slivers. Then note that the backs and bottoms are buttjoined to the ends with steel inside "corner irons" as they are often referred to, nine corners being required for each seat. The ninth corner is attached to the bottom and back at the center of the seat. Precise spacing of the corners at the ends is not important; just equalize the spacing. steel plate bearings The method of pivoting the seats is shown in the assembly, E. Spacers and two washers are placed between the ends of the seat and the wheel spokes as indicated. The shaft on which each seat pivots is held in place by shaft collars, one at each end. A steel mending plate is placed over the shaft at each end of the seat as shown. These plates serve as metal-to-metal bearings and when screwed in place they also prevent any possibility of the plywood end piece splitting. In one seat detail metal corners of the type used on suitcases and machinist's tool boxes are suggested. These are essentially ornamental and can be attached to all four corners of each seat, to the two back corners only or may be omitted entirely if desired. At this stage the wheel braces, of 1 x 2 stock, and the platform of plywood

covered partially with corrugated rubber or plastic matting can be installed. To finish the job you need two wheel locks, one on each A-frame and attached to the A-frame cross member. One of the two units is shown in the assembly, B. The units are duplicates with one exception which is the installation of an eyebolt in one or the other of the locks. The eyebolt permits locking one unit in the down position with a conventional bike lock, thus preventing the wheel from turning. The hole for the eyebolt is drilled in one handle in approximately the position shown at A in the assembly, B. use outdoor plywood As the wheel will be exposed to weathering all plywood parts should be of the grade known as "outdoor plywood." Plywood parts should have the exposed edges filled with wood putty or other suitable filler and should be primed and painted in the color of your choice. On the original wheel plywood parts and the 1 x 2 wheel braces were painted a bright red with gold striping. All other parts were coated with a sealer and finished in the natural color with spar varnish. When operating the wheel in your yard, it is likely that you will have riders of varying ages and weights, and probably plenty of them. Because of this, you will have to balance the wheel so that it will rotate easily. To do this, purchase some heavy weights5-lb. lead weights, ingots of the type used by plumbers, or old window sash weightsand keep them handy. To load the squaris wheel, release the wheel locks and hold the wheel steady. Admit two riders to the lowest car, remembering to instruct the riders to duck their heads under the shaft on which the seat is pivoted and which serves as a safety bar. Now swing the wheel a quarter turn and admit two more riders. Continue the procedure until the wheel is loaded and ready to run. Now remove your hands and let the wheel roll on its own for a minute. You will be able to tell which seat is the heaviest because it will swing to the bottom. When that happens, balance the wheel by putting one or more heavy weights on the seat opposite the heavy one. Fasten the weights securely so that they cannot fall from the seat during the ride and injure the tiny passenger in the opposite car.

in Your Own Back Yard

Scaled down t o fit your plot and pocketbook, but big enough t o carry grownups, midget trains offer fun for t h e whole family. By Harry W a l t o n

and you'll share in the fun, Backyard railroatlin~ is a man-sized hobby for all the family. Once you handle the throttle of a midget engine and feel the thrust of drivers on rails, ordinary lnoclel railroading becomes a spectntor sport.

IVE the kids a train they can ride,

plate cousins, it can grow up along with the children from year to year. You don't need a big lot. One type of track can be laid in a circle as small a\ 12' across. Intercsting layouts can be put on a city lot. Here's what it takes: A reasonably levcl space, preferably at least 30' by 40'. As much cash as a modest electrict l , i i t i I . i y u ~ ~YOU^^ t cost.

A passenger-carrying pike costs than you may think. It can give scope for as I I I L I C ~ or as little time skill as you care to invest. Like its

less you and tin-

Ordinary garden and hand tools. One or more children so that you can clnirn that you're doing it for tltcrn. What will it cost? For as little as $20
AUGUST 1956

147

Either wood or metal rail can start you on the right track

F U R R I N G - S T R I P R A l L is c5nsy to I;I!. in notchctl tics I ' :rl):~rt. 'l'oc~~ail it ill \\,it11 (itl. g,;~lv:unizetl lillishi~~g nails. Creosote the ties for longer life. Fill hollo\vs ill grountl to yrovicle :I solitl rnntlI>ctl. For curves. set one rail into tics I' apart, Iwnd ant1 lloltl it to the r:~tlius wilntecl ( 12' is :~l>out the snl;~llcstpossible) ant1 tl1c11hcntl and press the otller rail in pl:lce.

is Illc re;d Illil~g,c:11cd tics. it I'orlns sections :IS tlo\vn. \\'it11 ;~lirminrl~n nl,o\;c. l'hcse call I)e laid or talien rip like to!.tr;~intrack. \let;~lstraps (fislll)l:~tes)are I>oltecl :Icross the joints. Dr~r:rl rnil can ;llso be houglit 11:. t l ~ c foot ;ultl spiked to creosotetl wootlen ties \\.it11 roofing 11;lils. The best ro;ltll)ecl for tics is ;I 2" I:~ycr of gr;lveI or cinders.
T-SECTION D U R A L R A l L

to 840 !.ou c:111 p r ~ t tlonw track ant1 get tlo\vn strap-iron rail ; I I N ~;I 11~1ntl-cranked car rolling o n it. T h c !~o1111gstcrs \\,ill car. This is light enollgh for tots to proenjoy ptlsl~ingc,i~cllothcr ;lror~ndon the pc.1, ):ct 1i11sky c11ougI1 to convert to ciu or coastin!!, . tlo\vl) ;un incline. T h e tlic- ~ , o \ \ ~ e later. r Various :~ccc:ssoricbs.i n c h ~ d st.1 strc~;~rnlinc.r, 1)ritlgcs ant1 otllcr trim- ing po\vcr locolnoti\lt~sarc nvailnlde for this trnck. minss ci111 I,c ntltlctl a s yo^^ scc fit. You II;IVC' il choice of r ~ s i ~ c;~sIi i g or innztrrcl scrrle rnil. D c l u s e track can gclluity for rnilll!, of tlicsc improvc~nc,nts. IIO m ; ~ t l c \\lit11 this, spiked to wootlen ties Gas or c~lcctric loco~notives c an b e I > o ~ ~ g l i ti ~ n t ljoined with fishp1;ttes. It's light and ~11 r eatly to highball. O r yon call 1 ~ 1 y r ~ ~ s t p r o o 1)ut f corrles to 25 cents ;I foot in only tho piwts ! . ~ I Ican't ~ i ~ ; ~ c h ii~ ~in ed , 100' lots, plrls shipping costs. Evcn so, b r ~ i l d):our o\vn cllgine \vith 11othing b u t yor~ can lay 50' of trnck. l)r~iltl a c;lr from 1l;uitl tools. If you can ~ilacliinc some nn rlnmacliinc~tltruck kit (\vliicli yo11 c;un p;~rtsh-o~ncastings, t h e cost will be lcss. mncl~ilicon a tlrill prcss) ;111tlstill stay W/tich prrrcpa is host? 1,ivc-stei~rn insitlc n 8.50 I ~ ~ ~ t l g e t . F~oorletz rail. F o r rnt1c.11 lcss money, cnthusi;~sts1,nrrrl along l)c:lii~ltl cilitlcryo11 can In): onc-l)!~-t\vo furring strips on s1)itting little e n g i ~ i e s on :3%" trnck. tirs c u t from t\vo-l)y-fours. Five tlolli~rs X~nusrmc~~~t-p ; ~ r k r u n 1111 to 15" roads gauge is a good \vill 1)11y newr Irlml~crfor :~l)ont40' of garlgc. For holne t ~ s c7%" , tr;lck, ;inti sc~contlli;~ntl wood, it' ovailal~le, compromise,; it's I)ig c.no~~lgli for cvcn
;I
~I.O\VI~LIL>S

t o ~ r i c l c C O I I I ~ O ~ I ~~111~1 I I J I1 ~1, 1 ~

cost is reuso~i:~l)lc. T-Ierc is \vlr;~tyou can rlse to lay 7%" track: f'refnh s l r t ~ p rc~il. F o r $40, you g c t n l)fickage t l r ; ~ l : n 12' circle of knockctl-

148

POPULAR SCIENCE

use notched ties, or nail b ~ o c k soutside rails. If you have it circular saw, mount a tlaclo 11e;itl ancl cut one notch in all the ties. Then fit n block into the miter-gauge ~ t heail as sl~o\vn.Drop first notch on block to c ~ seco11t1.
W I T H W O O D E N RAIL,

W I T H A H O M E WELDER, you can make rail from %':-by:% , or larger, strap Iron. Bolt plates across joints.

wider on curves. The homen~nde t rack gauge shown does this nutomntically if used with its wide end on the outsicte rail. To join rail lengths, nail the two adjoining encls to n common tic.

SPACE RAILS % "

RAIL

TRUCK
WHEELBASE

THREE POINTS SPACE RAILS

Easily finished k i t of castings m a k e s car trucks and couplers

ASSEMBLED like the fir~ishedtruck aho\re, these 1'01. ?I.'' iixlcs :111d;I Ic\\. 11i1ls units can b c mot~ntetl on n ply\vootl floor to is all it t:tkes t o finis11 tllcse castings. The 47.11,. m:tke any kind of car. Fittccl \\,it11 sprockets casting set ~nnkcstwo cnr trucks, t w o \ r o r k i ~ ~ g or pulleys, they mily hc used in a locomotive. knucklc couplers ntitl n I~rnkc \vhcel. DRILLING HOLES
AUGUST 1956

149

1'2' in diameter plus the Iinntl-crankcd car ;rhove costs about 440. T h e trailer car is $16. The power loco~notives on the facing page can he run on the same track.
A CIRCLE OF TRACK

..

W O O D TIES C O M E SLOTTED

a n d strap-iron rails prerlrilled for wire clips. These are bent as shown to assemble the track in either straight or curved form. Extra track runs 419 for 40'.
S W I T C H O R T U R N O U T comes right hand or left. I t is spring-lontled so that wheels running into a n open switcl~can trail through the points. Switches are $15 each a n d the crossings $10.

will halve even this very modest cost. Unpowered cars will roll nicely 011 wooden track, but powered wheels may tend to climb the soft edge corner. You can lick this by shoeing the rails with strap iron when you have R Iocnrnotive. Other m i l . \Vith a slnall welder, you can make low-cost rail out of strap iron by weldinq on foot plates, spacing them like ties. Track has also been made of angle iron, pipe, and conduit. How nborrt rolling stock? You have several choices, from buying ready-made cars to building your own. You can, for instance: Buy a trailer car to ride on the prefab strap rail. Price is $16. Get a casting kit to make realistic 1%"-scale car trucks. hlount these 011 a plywood floor, and you have a play push car that can later be convertccl into a caboose, box, tank or cattle car. Unfinizllecl c < ~ \ t i l i g b ( t l ~ e y n e r d 0111~ h c ~ l e \

drillecl in them) cost $15; ready to assernble, the kit is $32.50. Buy castings for the \vheels only, and make the truck sides and bolsters (50 POPULAR SCIENCE

o r ~of t steel plate, angle iron or liartl~\~ood. ;Nofive power. This is the lilost thrilling part of railroatling, m ~ dyou're lim- * : + , \ itcd only I,y your butlget at one entl or LL' your ingenuity at the other. There's plenty of room in between. For up\v;lrtls of $200 you can buy a <;I\ or electric encine reatlv to run. . -. . . ,A s~vitch-engine chassis, fittetl wit11 ELECTRIC-POWERED "DIESEL" ~ ; L C I Cfor llse on strap-iron rail comes rrntly to roll. It has two electric clri\;e, can Ile for $150. Yoll forward and two reverse speerls. A trickle build the hotly yourself. R y adcling a is 1,ro,7itletl to ~ , the ~ ~ ~ - ~ allto ~ ~ ltt trailer unit later. vou can convert this hntterv From the house circiiit overniaht. - Both this alld thc fils-po\vered locomotive 1,elow are into a super streamliner. equippet1 wit11 an electric horn a11c1 headlight. \lachinet1 vower trucks, tl.nnsmission nntl clt~tcllassemblies, cast body parts, iuid so forth are available intlividually or as package deals. You can buy what you cannot make or improvise yourself. The little handcar niatle for strap rail could be powered wit11 a lawn-mower encine or a battery and arito starter. If the power plant leaves no room to ride, the cngiliecr can perch on a trailer car. One of tlw car trucks described (pagc 119) call 1)e fittetl with sprockets or pullcvs for locomotij~e use. A centrifugal clutch or ;I belt-tightening arrangement, plus one or more jackshafts, will gcar donin a gas cngine to drive it. Battery power. Ford starter motors A FOUR-CYCLE T W I N po\vers this gi~s-tlri\~en are \vidclv used for electric drive. A hat- locomotive. The throttle is spring-tensioned to tery ch:~rgegives several hours' run be- snnq, shut when not heltl, l?rovirling il "tleadcause the motor is cut in only at intervals, man control for safety. P r ~ c e dat $22.5 each, both engines above Iiave botlies mnde of pressed \\lhile the loconlotive co;lsts bet\veen steel ant1 fiher-gloss, finished in rctl and silver. I~oosts.A home charger is, of course, a must. Electric power is popular because ON A P O W E R CHASSIS, you can niount a boil:, cliildre~icall safely operate it tinsuper- of your own choice i ~ n t l construction. Plywootl, cans, rot1 nncl tuhing, and even parts from \lised. Starter solenoitls, controlled hy a tin EXD oltl toys can atltl up to n realistic engine. spring-toggle switch that snaps to 08 if ~ i o I~eld, t carry the heavy noto or current. If yo11 go for steam locomotives, you can buy 8" driving \vhecls, side rotls ancl other parts in the form of castings, h u t 1 , c lxepared to machine them yourself.
L .

<+

-\

R e a l i s t i c stc-iil~l-typt.e l l g i ~ ~ c 11;1vc: s 1~)eeu

\vliackc.cl up from foocl cans, sheet metal and hard1,oard. I F you're really on thc l d l , you can find a \vny to synchronize sound and smoke with the drivers.

I . :