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In the beginning, there was foodat least according to the creation stories of many religious traditions. From Brahman cooking the world into existence to Adam, Eve, and the apple, religious peoples have related to their gods, each other, and the world through food. They have made meaning while making dinner, whether in rituals such as Christian Communion and Hindu deity feedings or in eating everyday according to the kashrut or halal codes of Judaism and Islam. They continue to do so, often spicing up the old stories with new ingredients in season for new cultural and historical contexts. Thus there is almost always something fresh on the menu for those interested in the relationship between food and religion, as well as much worth chewing over again and again. Food was important at the beginning of the academic study of religion too. Among its formative works in the early twentieth century were the lectures of William Robertson Smith on the origins of ancient Hebrew religion. The first of those lectures focused on the importance of feasting to the development of communal identity, including the communitys relationship to its deity.1 Scholars in religion have rarely followed that early interest in food. It has been left largely to colleagues in anthropology and sociology to tell us about the relationships between religion and food. Mary Douglas is the most influential. Her theories on the relationships of food and purity and particularly the social meanings encoded in Hebrew dietary laws have come to shape the study of food. They have even shaped the study of religion. Yet while her works are on every (good) religious studies programs reading list, few students of religion have applied them to studying food.2 Where Douglass work has propelled interest in religion and food, it has taken a very different trajectory from Smiths for the most part. Douglas, like Smith, is primarily interested in the connections between food and communal identity. (So is almost everyone writing about food and religion since, if not before, her.) Smith began with feasting, but Douglass early work particularly underlined the importance of food abominations. Scholars in anthropology and out these days are far more fascinated with fasting and forbidden food than with calorie-laden religious foodways. The compelling nature of Douglass theories aside, this is not surprising in a cultural context that might be defined by its own obsessions with dieting. An obvious place for the beginning student to turn for all-things-religion is the Encyclopedia of Religion. The entry on food in the 2005 edition begins with religious food customs characterized narrowly as dietary laws, food taboos, and the religious and social environments that have molded them. And while the essay goes on to cover a broader range, beginning and ending with sections that feature ancient taboos, modern alcohol prohibitions, and contemporary vegetarianism illustrate how the relationship between food and religion has become primarilyand narrowlyunderstood.3 As estimable a food scholar as E. N. Anderson, in his introduction to food and culture, writes almost exclusively about taboo in his chapter on religion.4 That Anderson even devoted a chapter to it is remarkable, however. For another tendency has been to ignore religion or talk about it as something else. One of the best collections of essays on food, an entry point for many students into the study of food in the United States, contains articles on foodways in religious communities, sacred spaces, and holidays but most give no attention to their religious contexts or character.5 The same thing happens in food journalism and popular writing. One well-respected food writer quotes from the Upanishads and the Bible to show how food has been used for illuminating broader subjects, especially sexuality. Despite his sources, he never mentions religion.6 More than being overshadowed by a fascination with sex (but not unrelated to it usually), religions relationship to food has been reduced to bad influence. This is particularly true in the United States, where scholarly and popular volumes on food blame bad food on Puritanism in the cultures guilt-ridden, sin-obsessed religious history. It all came home to me a few years ago, when I posted a notice about a project on the list-serve of the Association for the Study of Food and Society. Having very carefully explained that I am studying, not advocating, certain religious phenomena, I still got the following responses: an angry diatribe about the evils of religion from a scholar whose parents have joined a Jewish-vegetarian cult, several queries about fasting (not the topic of the post), and one sympathetic warning about food people being uncomfortable with religion.
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Bibliography
Arnold, Philip P., ed. Religious Dimensions of Food. Special Issue of Journal of Ritual Studies 14, no. 1 (2000). Bynum, Caroline Walker. Holy Feast, Holy Fast: The Religious Significance of Food to Medieval Women. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1987. Greenspoon, Leonard J., et al, eds. Food and Judaism . Studies in Jewish Civilization 15. Omaha, NE: Creighton University Press, 2005. Griffith, R. Marie. Born Again Bodies: Flesh and Spirit in American Christianity . Berkeley: University of California Press, 2004. Khare, R. S., ed. The Eternal Food: Gastronomic Ideas and Experiences of Hindus and Buddhists . Albany: State University of New York Press, 1992. Khare, R. S. Anna. In The Hindu World, edited by Sushil Mittal and Gene Thursby, 40728. New York: Rutledge, 2004. Kraemer, David. Jewish Eating and Identity Through the Ages . New York: Rutledge, 2007. McGowen, Andrew. Food, Ritual, and Power. In A Peoples History of Christianity: Late Ancient Christianity , edited by Virginia Burrus, 14564. Minneapolis: Augsburg Fortress, 2005. McKenzie Pearson, Anne. Because It Gives Me Peace of Mind: Ritual Fasts in the Religious Lives of Hindu Women. Binghampton: State University of New York Press, 1996. Miles, Margaret R., ed. Food and Religion. Special Issue of The Journal of the American Academy of Religion 63, no. 3 (1995). Sack, Daniel. Whitebread Protestants: Food and Religion in American Culture. New York: St. Martins Press, 2000. Smith, Dennis E. From Symposium to Eucharist: The Banquet in the Early Christian World. Minneapolis: Augsburg Fortress, 2003.
Notes:
(1.) W. R. Smith, Lectures on the Religion of the Semites: Their Fundamental Institutions , 3rd ed. (London: A. & C. Black, 1927). A good summary of Smiths influence and the historiography on food in biblical studies appears in Nathan McDonald, Not Bread Alone: The Uses of Food in the Old Testament (New York: Oxford, 2008), 117. (2.) Among the relevant works are Mary Douglas, Purity and Danger (New York: Oxford, 1966); idem, Deciphering a Meal, in Myth, Symbol and Culture, ed. Clifford Geertz (New York: Norton, 1971), 6181; idem, Leviticus as Literature (New York: Oxford, 1999). (3.) James E. Latham (1987) and Peter Gardella (2005), Food, in Encyclopedia of Religion, ed. Lindsay Jones, 2nd ed. (Macmilan Reference USA, 2005), 5:316775. For another introduction to the topic, see Corrie E. Norman, Religion and Food, in Encyclopedia of Food and Culture, ed. Solomon Katz (New York: Scribners, 2003), 3:1716. [Online]. Available: http://www.enotes.com/food-encyclopedia/religion-food. [November 20, 2010]. (4.) E. N. Anderson, Everyone Eats: Understanding Food and Culture (New York: NYU Press, 2005), 15561. (5.) Carole M. Counihan, ed., Food in the USA: A Reader (New York: Rutledge, 2002). For more on this and writings on food and religion in the United States, see Corrie E. Norman, Reading Foodways as Faithways in Contemporary America in Faith in America: Changes, Challenges, and New Directions , ed. Charles H. Lippy (Westport, CT: Praeger, 2006), 2:21336, esp. 21720. (6.) Mark Kurlansky, Choice Cuts: A Savory Selection of Food Writing from Around the World and Throughout History (New York: Ballantine, 2002), 12. (7.) Caroline Walker Bynum, Holy Feast, Holy Fast: The Religious Significance of Food to Medieval Women (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1987). (8.) For example Jonathan Z. Smith, Imagining Religion (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1982). Latham and Gardella, Food, 3167. (9.) The Journal of the American Academy of Religion 63, no. 3 (1995). (10.) American Association of Religion [Online]. Available: https://www.aarweb.org/Meetings/Annual_Meeting/Program_Units/PUCS/Website/main.asp?PUNum=AARPU181. [November 20, 2010]. (11.) Philip P. Arnold, Religious Dimensions of Food: An Introduction, Journal of Ritual Studies 14, no. 1 (2000): 45. (12.) In journalism, see for example Samantha M. Shapiro, Kosher Wars, New York Times Magazine, October 9, 2008 [Online]. Available: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/12/magazine/12kosher-t.html. [November 11, 2010]. On religion in food magazines, see Norman, Reading. For example, H.C. Chehabi, How Caviar Turned Out to be Halal, Gastronomica 7, no. 2 (2007): 1723; and Leah Koenig, Reaping the Faith, Gastronomica 8, no. 1 (2008): 8084, on two Muslim farmers and the connection between their faith and sustainable foodways. Number 70 of the 2010 Saveur 100 is a church dinner: Theresa Wolke, Sacred Heart Church Ravioli Dinner, Saveur (January/February 2010): 62. (13.) Anna Meigs, Food, Sex, and Pollution: A New Guinea Religion (New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press, 1988); Philip P. Arnold, Eating
PRINTED FROM OXFORD HANDBOOKS ONLINE (www.oxfordhandbooks.com). (c) Oxford University Press, 2013. All Rights Reserved. Under the terms of the licence agreement, an individual user may print out a PDF of a single chapter of a title in Oxford Handbooks Online for personal use (for details see Privacy Policy). Subscriber: CUNY Hunter College; date: 02 January 2014
PRINTED FROM OXFORD HANDBOOKS ONLINE (www.oxfordhandbooks.com). (c) Oxford University Press, 2013. All Rights Reserved. Under the terms of the licence agreement, an individual user may print out a PDF of a single chapter of a title in Oxford Handbooks Online for personal use (for details see Privacy Policy). Subscriber: CUNY Hunter College; date: 02 January 2014
PRINTED FROM OXFORD HANDBOOKS ONLINE (www.oxfordhandbooks.com). (c) Oxford University Press, 2013. All Rights Reserved. Under the terms of the licence agreement, an individual user may print out a PDF of a single chapter of a title in Oxford Handbooks Online for personal use (for details see Privacy Policy). Subscriber: CUNY Hunter College; date: 02 January 2014