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Summer 2014

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels


inyourpocket.com
N13 - FREE COPY
Amsterdam
Explore Noord
Take a free ferry across
the River IJ
Zandvoort
Discover Hollands most
popular seaside resort
Summer 2014 3 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Contents
E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
Foreword 4
A few words from the editor
Arriving & Getting Around 5
How to get to and from your hotel
Amsterdam Basics 8
Getting to grips with Amsterdam
Centrum 10
Canals, cafs & the Plantage
Nieuw-West 34
Lakes, parks and modern architecture
Noord 36
Rural landscapes and cutting-edge design
Oost 46
Modern islands and ethnic neighbourhood
West 48
Restaurants, pubs and the Westergasfabriek
Zuid 50
De Pijp and some of the citys best museums
Zuidoost 52
Colossal shopping centres and the home of Ajax
Gay Amsterdam 54
A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam
Cofeeshops 56
Where to smoke responsibly
Lifestyle Directory 60
Spas, doctors and other useful information
Amsterdam for kids 63
Interesting ways to spend the day with your ospring
Zandvoort 64
Discover Hollands most popular seaside resort
List of small features
Cash or credit? 6
Amsterdam in the movies 9
Bitter... balls? 15
Cafs & Cafeterias 16
Red Light streets 18
A farewell to pints 21
Cycling in Noord 38
Oldest gay bar 55
Higher education 56
Embracing the haze 57
In Your Pocket mobile 58
Looking up to the Dutch 61
Dutch highlights & Day trips 63
Maps & Index
Centrum: old centre map 31
Centrum: city centre map 32
Noord map 44
Netherlands map 66
Venue index 67
Here are just a few things you can do on the other side of the river
in Amsterdam Noord. Take a small river cruise on a boat that oers
an all-you-can-eat pancake buet, do some cycling in the pristine
countryside, bring swim trunks and take a dip at one of the areas
swimming pools or visit a festival and see why Noord has become
the sizzling new hub of Amsterdams creative community. Read
more on p.36. Photo of Ransdorp courtesy of Amsterdam Noord
Hollands most popular seaside resort is only a short train ride away
from Amsterdam. Read more on p.64. Photo courtesy of Zandvoort
4 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Foreword
Some travellers are content to just walk around a new city
hoping that theyll stumble upon something interesting. In
fact, when we were teenagers backpacking across Europe,
we would just take a peek at local postcards to see what
was worth looking at in every city we came across. Am-
sterdam is, in fact, so beautiful and alluring that you could
simply wander along its canals for days on end without
visiting any museums, but sooner or later everyone has to
eat and if youre like us, youd probably like to stop for a lo-
cal brew every once in a while, too. Thats where we come
in. Weve scoured the length and breadth of Amsterdam to
discover its best cafs, restaurants, pubs, clubs and summer
terraces and youll nd quite a few on the following pages.
Thats not to say, that we dont have extensive information
about sightseeing, because we do. And unlike other guides
to Amsterdam, this slim booklet covers all of the citys dis-
tricts, so intrepid travellers can discover parts of Amster-
dam most tourists will never see. Enjoy!
COVER STORY
Although cycling can be quite
stressful in Amsterdams city
centre, the wide open spaces
on the opposite side of the river
are perfect for riding a bike. Visit
Noords trendy cafs if youd like
to hang out with local hipsters
or do as the couple on this is-
sues cover did and explore the
districts charming villages like
Schellingwoude and its historic church, which is now
registered as a protected national monument.
Publisher
In Your Pocket Netherlands
Weikesstraat 21, 5335 LE Alem, The Netherlands
ISSN 2211-2480
Company Oce & Accounts
Tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, amsterdam@inyourpocket.com,
www.inyourpocket.com
Amsterdam In Your Pocket is printed by Microdot in the EU
Editorial
Editorial team Martins Zaprauskis & Theo Leerintveld
Layout & Design Martins Zaprauskis
Research Theo Leerintveld
Photography M. Zaprauskis & T. Leerintveld. Others courtesy
of Amsterdam city governments, Amsterdam Marketing and
various concert organisers.
Cover Museum Van Loon
Sales & Circulation
Theo Leerintveld, tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, theo.leerintveld@
inyourpocket.com
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket Netherlands. Maps
copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub-
lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
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ABOUT IYP
We have come a long way in the 22
years since we published the rst In
Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithu-
ania - so much so that we are today the
largest publisher of locally-produced
city guides in the world. The recent
publication of a guide to the islands of
the Dutch Caribbean - our rst in the
Western Hemisphere - has taken the
number of guides published each year
by In Your Pocket to well over ve milli-
on, spread across more than 100 cities
on three continents. And there is more
to come: make sure you keep up with all
thats new at In Your Pocket by liking us
on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpo-
cket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.
com/inyourpocket).
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Arriving & Getting Around
Arriving in Amsterdam is simple and no matter what mode
of transportation you choose nearly all roads lead to the
Amsterdam Central Station right in the heart of the city.
BY PLANE
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is located less than
10km southwest of the city centre. Its one of the busiest
airports in Europe receiving nearly 50 million passengers
each year, but its easy to navigate and pleasantly ecient.
Youll nd your luggage at one of 15 baggage belts and
luggage trolleys are abundant and free. Once you clear
customs youll enter the large arrivals hall, which is essen-
tially part airport, part train station, part shopping centre
and part food court. Although located under one roof, the
building is divided, nominally at least, into terminals 1 - 4.
Just walk straight to the main hall to nd most services that
you might need including transportation to the city. An of-
cial tourist information centre is available in terminal
2 (open 07:00 - 22:00). Luggage storage and lockers are
available downstairs between terminals 1 and 2. Lockers
cost 6/24hrs and you can pay with a card or with coins.
You can also leave your bags at the storage oce for the
same price, but its only open from 06:15 - 22:45. A small
bank of lockers is also available on the ground oor be-
tween terminals 3 and 4. Banks, currency exchanges
and ATMs are plentiful so you wont have any problems
getting money.
Getting to town: If youd like a taxi, then head to
the far right of the arrivals hall after clearing customs and
youll nd a Travel Taxi oce. Buses and hotel shut-
tles are available outside the terminal. Just walk straight
through the arrivals hall and youll see the stops outside
with the names of the citys biggest hotels that operate
their own shuttles. Each chain has its own schedule, which
is clearly marked at the stop. You can also take the blue
Connexxion Schiphol Hotel (www.connexxion.nl) shuttle
that stops at a number of large hotels along a planned
route. A very long list of hotels is posted at the stand. A
single ticket costs 15.50 and children 4 - 14 travel for half
price. If your hotel isnt listed its possible that it can be ar-
ranged. City bus Nr.197 departs regularly for Leidseplein in
the centre of Amsterdam as do other buses to a variety of
other destinations in Amsterdam.
If youre like most people you wont even leave the ter-
minal and youll head downstairs to catch a fast train that
will take you to Amsterdam Central Station in 15 minutes
for only 3.70. Just walk into the main hall to nd a list of
train departures. If you havent already bought a ticket you
can purchase one from one of the many ticket machines
with a credit card. Just choose English as your language on
the touch-screen then choose the following steps: single,
destination A.Centraal, 2nd class, full fare, valid today and
the number of tickets. Choose your method of payment,
insert your credit card, enter your PIN, conrm the price
and then wait for your ticket to be ed. Once you reach the
Central Station see Arriving by train. You can also buy train
tickets at the Train Tickets & Services oce but youll pay
an extra 0.50.
BY TRAIN
Amsterdams Central Station is a monumental building that
was completed in 1889. Although an incredible achieve-
ment in its own right, it was later criticised by urban plan-
ners for having cut o the city of canals from its most es-
sential waterway, the River IJ. Prior to its construction many
of the citys historic cafs were aorded an impressive vista
of ships masts bobbing up and down in the distance. To-
day, the massive edice and its surroundings are a bit of
a mess as the station is being renovated and retrotted to
accommodate a controversial new metro line.
Youll arrive at one of 15 platforms and then walk
downstairs into the central hall, which is full of newsstands,
kiosks, fast food restaurants and shops. A GWK Travelex
(www.gwktravelex.nl - open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 -
22:00) currency exchange and an ATM are available
near the south city centre side between platforms 1/2 and
4/5. For toilets that cost 0.50 you have to go up to plat-
form 2. At the far end of the same platform are a Burger
King, Ben & Jerrys, an upmarket restaurant called 1e Klas
(1st Class) and a bar, Caf Balkon.
For tourist information we recommend you exit
the building on the city centre side and walk across the
street to the ocial tourist information centre (see Tourist
information). Lockers for luggage storage are located
on the far east side of the station, but it might take a while
to nd an empty locker and even more time to gure out
how to use one. You can
only pay with a credit card.
Place your belongings in a
locker and close the door.
Find the nearest keypad
that corresponds with
the numbered section of
lockers you have chosen.
Conrm that the locker
number listed is the locker
you have chosen and then
swipe your credit card. Just
stick it in the slot and pull
it out. A ticket good for 24
hours will be ed. When you want to remove your luggage
just place the ticket into the slot and the door of your locker
will automatically open.
Getting to town: You are in the very centre of town
and all of Amsterdam lays before you. Many of the citys
best, and worst, hotels are only a short walk from here,
but if youre staying in another section of town such as the
Museum District you can take one of the many trams out-
side. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.60. He will activate
the card for you, but you have to place it up against one
of the ticket readers upon exiting the tram. If you plan on
using public transport frequently in Amsterdam it might be
worth buying an extended ticket. Exit the train station and
walk across the street to the GVB oce (open 07:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00) to the left of tourist information to
buy tickets. Free ferries to Amsterdam-Noord are available
on the north side of the station on the River IJ.
6 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Arriving & Getting Around
Amsterdam is a wonderfully walkable city and many of its
major sights are located in or near the city centre. Public
transportation is excellent and we dont recommend driv-
ing within the ring of canals. Naturally, cycling is the pre-
ferred Dutch method of travel and some would say its the
only way to truly experience the city.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
GVB (www.gvb.nl) is Amsterdams public transportation
company and it provides integrated metro, tram and bus
service throughout the city and its surrounding areas. Since
2010 a comprehensive OV-chipcard ticket system allows
you to travel on the metro, trams, buses and even trains us-
ing just one card. There are a variety of OV-chipcard options
and you can upload them with travel credits at special ma-
chines located at stations and even in most supermarkets.
You can purchase OV-chipcards for 24, 48, 72, 96, 120, 144
and 168 hours, which aord you unlimited travel on all
trams, buses, metros and night buses and an economical
way to explore the city. A one-hour OV card can be pur-
chased onboard from GVB drivers and conductors, but a
premium is charged for this ticket. It costs 2.70 for one
hour of unlimited travel on dierent buses and trains in
the city that begins once you board your selected mode of
transportation and check in by placing it next to the scan-
ners near the doors. You must also scan your card when
leaving the vehicle.
BICYCLE RENTAL
BLACK BIKES
A full day bike rental will set you back only 10 and it has the
longest opening hours in the city.QF-9, Lijnbaansgracht
282, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31, info@hetzwartefetsenplan.
nl, www.black-bikes.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 19:00. Also on Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat
88; Maasstraat 106 - 108; Tweede Helmersstraat 49;
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 146. TJA
HOLLAND RENT A BIKE
Although the name may not be the most original, this
companys service is outstanding. It rents and repairs
bikes, steps and scooters.QA-2, Damrak 247, tel. (+31)
206 22 32 07. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun
09:00 - 18:00. JA
RENT A DUTCH BIKE
This place has everything from bikes and scooters to
tandem, cargo or kids bikes. Deposit and ID required.
QE-8, Overtoom 45, tel. (+31) 206 83 33 69, www.
dutchbikeamsterdam.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also at
Reguliers Dwarsstraat 97. J
YELLOW BIKE
Yellow Bike has been renting bicycles and oering com-
prehensive bike tours of Amsterdam since 1990. You can
rent a bike for as little as 12/day, but if youd prefer a tour,
professional sta will guide you through the city centre or
take you across the IJ to explore the dikes, country cot-
tages and wetlands of Noord.QA-1, Nieuwezijds Kolk 29,
tel. (+31) 206 20 69 40, www.yellowbike.nl. Open 09:30
- 17:00. Also at Oudezijds Armsteeg 22. A
BOAT RENTAL
BOATY
Why take a canal boat tour when you can rent your own
boat and ferry around your friends? You dont even need a
licence to drive these electric powered vessels! The com-
pany is located near the Hotel Okura on the Jozef Israels-
kade.QJozef Israelskade, tel. (+31) 627 14 94 93, www.
boaty.nl.
SLOEP DELEN
This company rents 15 electric boats from two locations at
Nassaukade 69 and at Borneosteiger 1. You can reserve a
date and time online. All boats are powered by (environ-
mentally friendly) electricity and theyre easy to navigate
even without any prior experience.QC-6, Nassaukade
69, tel. (+31) 204 19 10 07, info@sloepdelen.nl, www.
sloepdelen.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 50/hour.
BUSES
City buses are primarily used to reach outlying suburbs or as
a nal option once the trams have stopped running. Night
buses operate from midnight until 07:00 with routes con-
necting Central Station, Rembrandtplein and Leidseplein.
You cant spit without hitting a bike in Amsterdam
CASH OR CREDIT?
That the Dutch are a frugal lot has never been up for
debate, but, as it turns out, this aects your lifestyle as
much as it does theirs. Although it could just be a much
deserved backlash against banking institutions in the
wake of the nancial crisis, more and more cafs are
reluctant to accept credit or bank cards at their estab-
lishments. In less extreme cases, restaurants require a
minimum bill of at least 10 - 20 to accept a card as
they have to pay a commission for these transactions.
Still other places only accept cash, while major super-
markets in the city centre such as Albert Heijn only ac-
cept local Dutch bankcards. Just make sure you always
have some cash on you because the Dutchman pour-
ing your beer behind the bar wants to save 0.50.
Summer 2014 7 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Arriving & Getting Around
CAR RENTAL
AVIS
Cars are divided in small, medium and large categories
and are available from 40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aank-
omstpassage 5), tel. (+31) 206 55 60 50, www.avis.nl.
Open 06:30 - 23:30. Also at E-8, Nassaukade 380. A
SIXT RENT A CAR
Straight opposite Central Station this company rents all
kind of cars and vans. Also at Schiphol Airport and other
Amsterdam locations.QF-5, Prins Hendrikkade 20a, tel.
(+31) 206 24 29 55, www.sixt.nl. From 33 a day.
FERRIES
Most Amsterdam ferries are available behind the Central
Station and connect the city centre with Amsterdam Noord
on the other side of the River IJ. In total there are six ferry
lines which transport pedestrians, bicycles and sometimes
mopeds. All of the lines are free.
AMSTERDAM PASSENGER TERMINAL
Amsterdam in particular and the Netherlands in general
have a long seafaring tradition. Passenger Terminal Am-
sterdam hosts more than 250,000 people every year. The
striking architectural monument is within walking dis-
tance of the Central Station and only 25km from the North
Sea. The cosy hallway oers a giant chess game, some
food venues, a functional kids corner and a luggage room
with instructions in six languages.QO-1, Piet Heinkade
27, tel. (+31) 205 09 10 00, fax (+31 ) 205 09 10 09, www.
ptamsterdam.com. TJAL
METRO
The metro is fast and ecient. Its a combination of under-
ground subway and light rail on the surface (sneltram). Only
some 3.5km of track between the Central Station and the
Amstel are actually located underground. The four metro
lines all depart from Central Station and head out to their
nal destinations at Westwijk, Gein, Gaasperplas and Iso-
latorweg. A new line to Noord will be added in the future,
hence all of the construction around town.
TAXIS
ELECTRIC TAXI COMPANY TAXI-E
This cab company uses environmentally-friendly electric
cars. Free wi- is included in the price, credit cards are ac-
cepted and it oers cheap rates to the airport.Qtel. (+31)
881 00 44 44, www.taxi-e.nl. AW
TCA TAXI
This 24-hour taxi company has stands at the Central Sta-
tion, Leidseplein, Stopera City Hall, Westermarkt, Frederik-
splein and Haarlemmerplein, but you can also call them
and order a cab any time of the day or night. Drivers are
safe and all of TCAs cars have permits that allow them to
ride on tram tracks, which is essential during rush hour.
Qtel. (+31) 207 77 77 77, www.tcataxi.nl. Open 24hrs.
WATERTAXI
Water taxis can pick you up and drop you o at virtually
any waterside address throughout Amsterdam and its en-
virons including the smallest of Amsterdam canals.QF-5,
Stationsplein 8, tel. (+31) 205 35 63 63, www.water-taxi.
nl. Prices: 1.75 - 2.25/minute. Maximum 8 people.
TRAINS
Train travel in the Netherlands is really the best option for
getting around and there are three types of trains available.
The High-Speed line covers larger distances quickly, which
is ideal when travelling to Germany, Great Britain or Bel-
gium, while the Stoptrein, not surprisingly, makes frequent
stops between bigger cities. Finally, the Intercity oers fast
connections between Dutch cities. Most of the stations are
centrally located. You can easily nd all train departures as
well as ticket price information at www.ns.nl. The yellow
timetables in the station show departure times and plat-
form numbers. The route is shown at the top of each board.
Tickets come in many forms. You have plenty of choices
varying from singles and day returns, a weekend return
or a day travel card. There are NS ticket machines at every
station. You can pay cash or use a Maestro PIN at the NS
Tickets & Service desk at major stations and the machines
at Schiphol Airport and Amsterdam Central also accept
credit cards.
TRAMS
Amsterdammers love their trams and you should, too! They
provide the best way of getting around the city and run
from 06:00 - 00:30. You shouldnt have to wait longer than
10 minutes at any tram stop. One-hour tickets for journeys
across the city can be bought from newsagents or tram
drivers. They cost 2.70, but if you plan on travelling a lot
youre better o purchasing a 24-hour ticket for 7. You
have to touch the scanner near the doors of the tram when
entering and exiting the vehicle.
Take the free ferry across the river to Noord M.Zaprauskis
8 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Amsterdam Basics
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
On public holidays shops and museums often close
earlier and some stay closed the whole day. Schools,
city councils, post oces and banks are closed and
some shops and restaurants may also take the day o.
January 1 New Years Day (Nieuwjaarsdag)
April 3, 2015 Good Friday (Goede Vrijdag)
April 5, 2015 Easter Sunday (Pasen)
April 6, 2015 Easter Monday (Pasen)
April 27, 2015 Kings Day (Koningsdag)
May 1 Labour Day (Dag van de Arbeid)
May 4 Remembrance of the Dead
(Nationale Herdenking)
May 5 Liberation Day (Dag van de Vrijheid)
May 9 Mothers Day (Moederdag)
May 13 Ascension Day (Hemelvaartsdag)
May 23 - 24 Whitsun (Pinksteren)
June 20 Fathers Day (Vaderdag)
June 26 Veterans Day (Veteranendag)
September 21 Budget Day (Prinsjesdag)
December 5 St. Nicolas (Sinterklaas)
December 25 - 26 Christmas (Kerstmis)
December 31 New Years Eve (Oudejaarsdag)
Read on and nd out why the Dutch allow people to smoke
joints, but not to operate a bicycle while intoxicated. Plenty
of other funny facts about the Netherlands are available
here.
ALCOHOL
Amsterdam is famous for its cafs and restaurants so youre
never far from a tasty brew or a glass of wine. Heineken,
Amstel and Bavaria are the nations biggest brewers but
other large local brands include Grolsch and Hertog Jan. A
wide variety of excellent Belgian brews are also on oer at
most bars, but keep an eye out for cafs selling beer from
Amsterdams own microbreweries t IJ and De Prael. No trip
to Amsterdam would be complete without a visit to one of
the ancient bars at the beginning of the Zeedijk that spe-
cialise in locally distilled liqueurs and Dutch gin known as
jenever. You must be at least 16 years old to drink beer or
wine and 18 to imbibe spirits. If you look too young youll
be carded, so always bring identication. This holds true
for supermarkets and o-licences, too. If youre a little too
tipsy youll probably be asked (rmly, yet kindly) to leave
the premises and if you dont cooperate you could end up
spending a night sobering up in a drunk tank.
CYCLING
Being one of the smaller nations in the world, which is basi-
cally as at as a pancake, the Netherlands is an attractive
country for cyclists. Add to that an unbelievable selection
of cycling paths and youll see why the Dutch love their
bikes so much. Unfortunately, riding a bike in big cities like
Amsterdam can still be a nerve-racking experience. Cars,
trucks, trams, buses, scooters and even pedestrians can all
serve as terrifying obstacles that seem to pop up into your
eld of vision from nowhere, but other cyclists can also be
just as dangerous. Although parents are condent enough
in bicycle safety to attach carts to their bikes to transport
their children around town, loads of other cyclists ignore
trac rules and basically ride wherever they like often caus-
ing mayhem on the streets.
MAIL & PHONES
All In Your Pocket guides list country codes before all tel-
ephone numbers. The Dutch country code is (+31), but
of course, you only have to use this if youre dialling from
abroad. If youre already in the Netherlands and want to call
one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+31) pre-
x, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number.
MONEY
Since 2002, a large part of the European Union has adopt-
ed the euro as its local currency and the Netherlands is
no exception. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There
are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 euro cents, and also of
1 and 2 euro. Banknotes are available with the following
values: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Although a collec-
tion of 200 and 500 bills in your wallet might make you
feel like Bill Gates, bear in mind that theyre almost never
accepted in shops or restaurants. You can exchange and
withdraw money at most large banks; there are plenty in
the centre of Amsterdam. All Dutch banks accept Visa and
MasterCard at their cash dispensers, but bear in mind that
ATMs are ridiculously scarce in Amsterdam often leading
to huge queues near hot spots like Leidseplein. At the
train station you can nd a GWK Travelex shop (Station-
splein, open Mon - Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00).
Many restaurants, hotels and shops accept Visa and Mas-
terCard, but to avoid disappointment, be sure to carry
some money with you as some bars only accept cash and
others require a minimum purchase of 15 - 20 to use a
card.
Decorate your bike or it will disappear among the thousands
Summer 2014 9 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Amsterdam Basics
PROSTITUTION
It may surprise you to know that the profession that has
helped to make Amsterdam a household word across
the globe, only became legal in 2000. For years, the
Dutch did what they always do when confronted with
a sticky social problem. The police simply turned a blind
eye to the practice and tolerated it. The cops in the Red
Light district only rousted sex workers if they became
too aggressive with passers-by showing off body parts
or tapping on the glass. Today, window shopping on the
Oudezijds Achterburgwal is a popular tourist attraction,
but please bear in mind that these ladies are there to
make a living and are not part of some open-air zoo.
Be respectful and, whatever you do, dont take any pho-
tographs up close. Use a zoom lens from a distance if
you want some photographic evidence of your visit to
Europes erotic pleasure capital. For more information
see Nightlife.
ROADS
Despite the excellent state of Dutch roads and cars (its
compulsory in the Netherlands to have your car checked
for faults at least once every two years) trac quite fre-
quently jams at a large number of bottlenecks. The ma-
jority of Dutch drivers never break the speed limit, and
considering the severity of trac nes, this seems wise
enough. Driving through a red light? This will cost you
160. Driving too fast within city limits? Be prepared
to pay 180! And as soon as you exceed the maximum
speed by 50km/h youll lose your driving licence and be
ned. Within city limits you must drive 50km/h, outside
city limits 80 and on motorways 100 or 120 (check the
road signs). In the Netherlands you must drive on the
right side of the road, and youre not allowed to cycle on
motorways! You dont want to know how many tourists
are plucked o the road by police each year.
SMOKING
Until recently, smoking was very popular in the Nether-
lands, but since the introduction of the smoking ban on
July 1, 2008, smoking has become a lot less common. This
is partially because the government started a huge cam-
paign to make people aware of the eects of smoking on
their health. These days you can have a wild night out and
come home without your hair and clothes reeking of ciga-
rette smoke. For some this is an enormous benet and oth-
ers (read: smokers) nd it a pain and banish themselves to
the many smokers rooms in the country. Thanks to unclear
rules you may suddenly nd yourself in a smoke-lled pub.
This is usually in bars with just a single sta member: the
boss. Or you may nd yourself in a pub that outs the ban
on smoking. This will not have any consequences for you.
If you light a cigarette in a pub and the manager tolerates
this, then the manager will receive a ne upon inspection.
The Netherlands is of course also known for its wafts of
marijuana (see Coeeshops).
AMSTERDAM IN THE MOVIES
Sure, Scarlett Johansson is pretty on screen. And Cath-
erine Zeta-Jones, shes okay too. But lm directors know
all too well that when shooting scenes in the Red Light
District or on its endless canals, Amsterdam is the real
star. The city has been the site of many Hollywood and
European art house productions. Below is a list of pretty
movie locations across town. Feel free to visit them and
honour the genuine movie star: Amsterdam.
Diamonds are Forever (1971)
Gorgeously made of white painted wood, the Magere
Brug (Skinny Bridge) in the city centre was made be-
fore World War II and, like its bigger brother the Blauwe
Brug, joins the two banks of the River Amstel. Deco-
rated with festive LED lights today, the bridge served as
a location for the James Bond classic Diamonds are For-
ever back in 1971. But our suave British hero, played by
the only real Bond, Sean Connery, galavanted around
other places in the Dutch capital, too. Take a walk along
the Reguliersgracht (where Bond Girl Tiany Case lived)
or visit the Brouwersgracht in the Jordaan, another fa-
mous location.
Girl with a Pearl Earring (2003)
This ctional tale by Tracy Chevalier about real-life
Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer is set in the Nether-
lands and named after a famous Dutch painting. So
why do the characters in Girl with a Pearl Earring speak
English? Ah, international appeal, of course. But you
have to give it to the producers for lming the major-
ity of the scenes in the Netherlands. In addition to the
Royal Palace on Dam Square, director Peter Webber de-
cided to grace Delft (famous for its blue Delftware) with
its prominent cast which included Scarlett Johansson
as the girl and Colin Firth as the painter.
Mindhunters (2004)
It is no coincidence that two Dutch actors, the late An-
tonie Kamerling and Danil Boissevain, played cameo
roles in the American blockbuster Mindhunters, which
was partly shot in Amsterdam. The cast of the Christian
Slater-starring thriller presumably had a great time
shooting in Amsterdam-Noord. Whereas Mindhunt-
ers is set on an island and tells about a traitor amidst a
group of FBI agents, the scene of Amsterdam-Noord is
less treacherous. Its usually ooded by hipster events,
so dont forget to wear a knit hat, even in summer.
Oceans Twelve (2004)
Apparently, everybody insists that Brad Pitt owns an
apartment in Amsterdam. Pitt has debunked the story,
but admits he still has an old bike parked somewhere
in the city from back in his youth (the movie star is, after
all, a very spry 50). The shooting of Oceans Twelve (the
sequel to heist movie Oceans Eleven), may attract you
to the Dampkring Coeeshop on the Handboogstraat
in the centre, but more famous are the scenes at the
Pulitzer Hotel at the edge of the Jordaan.
10 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Centrum
SYMBOL KEY
A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning
O Casino T Child-friendly
U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace
V Home delivery E Live music
B Outside seating X Smoking section
S Takeaway W Wi
Amsterdam Centrum is the district that most of the city's
visitors want to see and it's also the place where most
people end up arriving. The Central Station is the city's
most renowned and popular transport hub and all of the
city centre lies before it. Centrum, as it's called, is actually
quite large, so you may want to use public transportation
to get around, but with a comfortable pair of trainers all
of its sights and sounds can be covered on foot. The infa-
mous Red Light district with its bars and window shopping
is only a short walk across the square from the station as are
the Zeedijk with its restaurants and Chinatown. The world
famous belt of canals, or simply the Grachtengordel, is also
just a hop, skip and a jump from here not to mention the
Dam and Leidse Square (Leidseplein). The popular Jordaan
neighbourhood in the west is full of bohemian cafs, bars
and shops, while the Plantage area in the east is home to
some of the city's best attractions including the Artis Zoo
and the Hortus Botanical Gardens.
ARRIVING IN CENTRUM
If you're already in Centrum there's a good chance that you
arrived at the Central Station. From here you can take trams
No.1, 2 or 5 to the canals and Leidseplein. Trams No.13 and
17 will take you to the Jordaan, while tram No.9 will take
you to Rembrandtplein in the east and farther aeld to the
Plantage area.
ACCOMMODATION
Centrum has it all from hostels to award-winning design
hotels, but rates can be obscenely high so book in advance.
CREAM OF THE CROP
NH BARBIZON PALACE
One of Amsterdams premiere hotels, the Barbizon Palace
began its existence over 100 years ago when 19 historic
buildings were converted into elegant accommodation.
Due to its unique construction, some rooms make use of
their ancient timbers and oors, while others have a more
contemporary feel and the executive oor has been re-
cently renovated for guests that require a more modern,
minimalist dcor.QB-1, Prins Hendrikkade 59-72, tel.
(+31) 205 56 45 64, www.nh-hotels.com. 274 rooms.
PHARUFLGKDX hhhhh
NH GRAND HOTEL KRASNAPOLSKY
What began in the 19th century as a coee house on the
Warmoesstraat expanded over time into the massive ho-
tel you see now on the Dam. Due to its age and historic
signicance, the Krasnapolsky hasnt conformed to the
modern NH hotel group style and many of its 468 rooms
have retained some elements of their old world elegance.
That said, most of the accommodation includes huge at
screen TVs and king size beds and the rooms in the new
wing have a more contemporary look. .QA-2, Dam 9, tel.
(+31) 205 54 91 11, www.nh-hotels.com. 468 rooms.
PJHA6FLKXW hhhhh
BOUTIQUE & DESIGN HOTELS
HOTEL SEVEN ONE SEVEN
What do world renowned celebrities like Schubert, Pi-
casso, Tolkien, Shakespeare and Charles Dickens have in
common? All of these men have a suite named after them
in this boutique hotel. Although boutique hotels are not at
all scarce in the area, Seven One Seven is still a trend setter.
Its stylish and comfortable rooms oer big beds, free wi-,
climate control and a mini-bar stocked with complimen-
tary drinks, but bear in mind that luxurious surroundings
dont come cheap here. This historic canal house doesnt
have a restaurant, but the neighbourhood is teeming with
bars and cafs.QPrinsengracht 717, tel. (+31) 204 27 07
17, www.717hotel.nl. 9 rooms (rooms and suites from
350). PJHALGBXW hhhh
HOTEL THE EXCHANGE
The people who brought you the Lloyd Hotel in Amster-
dam East have expanded their unique hospitality concept
to the city centre. They believe, and rightly so, that style
should be available to all, so the hotel oers rooms of
varying sizes and levels of comfort for all budgets in one
building. Five-star rooms are more spacious and oer
more amenities than a one-star room, but all accommoda-
tion includes cutting-edge interior design. The New York
Times even praised the hotels designers writing: they ac-
cessorized each room as if it were a model.QDamrak 50,
tel. (+31) 205 61 36 99, www.exchangeamsterdam.com.
61 rooms (1-star from 82, 2-star from 88, 3-star from
92, 4-star from 115, 5-star from 138).
Many of Amsterdams hotels are located in historic buildings
Summer 2014 11 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Centrum
THE DYLAN AMSTERDAM
If you appreciate luxury and style and, more importantly,
you can aord them both, then look no further than The
Dylan, which is tucked away in an historic location beside
the Keizersgracht. All of its design rooms and suites include
at screen TVs, free wi-, Bose sound systems with iPod
docking stations, mini-bar, safe and private bathrooms,
not to mention bathrobes and slippers. You can also dine
on French cuisine at its Michelin-starred Vinkeles restau-
rant or have a meal at the more casual OCCO brasserie. A
courtyard garden terrace is also available, weather permit-
ting.QKeizersgracht 384, tel. (+31) 205 30 20 10, www.
dylanamsterdam.com. 40 rooms (doubles from 275,
duplex from 375, superior from 450, suites from 500).
PTJHAFGBKW hhhhh
MID-RANGE
HOTEL CITADEL
This three-star hotel located a short distance from the
Central Station looks like standard, tourist-class accommo-
dation thats been upgraded and modernised to reect
more contemporary tastes. That said, some rooms such as
the triples still look a bit old-fashioned, so we recommend
the doubles decorated in subtle greys with the occasional
ash of red for dramatic eect and a large black and white
photograph above the bed. Flat screen TVs, private bath-
rooms with showers and hairdryers, phone and safe also
come standard.QA-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 98-100,
tel. (+31) 206 27 38 82, www.hotelcitadel.nl. 38 rooms.
AKW hhh
HOTEL SINT NICOLAAS
Although this unique circular, tower-like building was
once used as the Amsterdam harbour oce in the 18th
and 19th centuries, it now houses an excellent, yet aord-
able design hotel a 3-minute walk from the Central Sta-
tion. The bar/reception area with its huge replace, fresh
owers and modern, but cosy furnishings including lap-
top stations for busy or bored guests will no doubt dazzle
you and its rooms, each designed in a dierent fashion,
range in style from downright funky to sober minimal-
ism. The sta are ultra-friendly.QA-1, Spuistraat 1A, tel.
(+31) 206 26 13 84, www.hotelnicolaas.nl. 27 rooms.
PAIW hhh
BUDGET
A-TRAIN HOTEL
If youre a rail enthusiast there really is no other option for ac-
commodation in Amsterdam than the kitschy A-Train Hotel.
Not only is it located across the street from the Central Station,
but a rail theme also dominates every aspect of the three-star
hotel including the breakfast area, where you dine in rail car
booths and the miniature train models and memorabilia cov-
ering every surface of the building. Rooms are small but oer
private bathrooms with shower and hairdryer as well as a TV,
phone and safe. The friendly sta complete the experience.
QA-1, Prins Hendrikkade 23, tel. (+31) 206 24 19 42, www.
atrainhotel.com. 34 rooms. JAKX hhh
BACKSTAGE HOTEL AMSTERDAM
Its really hard to nd good accommodation in Amsterdam for
a price that wont leave you feeling like youve been mugged,
but, somehow, this hip hotel manages to do just that. It keeps
its rates surprisingly low and its guests happy with free wi-,
iPod docking stations in each room, trendy Flight Case furni-
ture and a great location thats close enough to the bars and
clubs of Leidseplein, but just far enough away so you dont ac-
tually hear all of the nightlife thats associated with the square.
.QE-7, Leidsegracht 114, tel. (+31) 206 24 40 44, www.
backstagehotel.com. 22 rooms (22 Total rooms ). (singles
from 59, doubles/twin from 88, triples from 138, quads
and quintuples from 198). TJALGW hh
BED & BREAKFAST
LA VIE EN ROSE B&B AND APARTMENTS
Conveniently located in an historic Amsterdam building
between the Central Station and Dam Square, La Vie en
Rose oers two beautifully decorated and aordably priced
apartments that include loads of modern amenities like at
screen TV, stylish furniture and dcor, kitchenette and free
wireless internet access. Thankfully, many of the original
design features of the interiors have also been preserved
so you can enjoy the best of both worlds. Amsterdam has
some strange rules regarding its buildings, so a maximum
of only two people are allowed to stay in each apartment.
QA-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 90B, tel. (+31) 651 59
57 87, www.amsterdamapartmentlavieenrose.com. 2
rooms (2 apartments from 115). J6LNGW
HOSTELS
BOBS YOUTH HOSTEL
Only a short walk from the Central Station, this legend-
ary Amsterdam hostel is one of the few of its genre that
specialises in walk-in business, so as long as you show up
before evening theres a good chance youll get a bed here
even on a weekend. Rooms are basic with bunk beds, but
each dorm has its own washroom. Unfortunately, there
was no hot water when we stayed there. Perhaps it just
takes a really long time to reach the third oor.QA-1, Nieu-
wezijds Voorburgwal 92, tel. (+31) 206 23 00 63, www.
bobsyouthhostel.nl. 144 beds. A
A garbage barge removes sunken bicycles and boats from the canal
12 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Centrum
RESTAURANTS
Amsterdam Centrum has plenty of tourist traps, but the
following is a tiny selection of some of our favourite res-
taurants. For hundreds more restaurant reviews visit www.
amsterdam.inyourpocket.com.
BAGELS
BAGELS & BEANS
Were not exactly sure where the beans t into the equa-
tion, but if you like plain, whole wheat, tomato, everything,
cinnamon and even gluten-free (whatever that means)
bagels with a wide variety of toppings from hummus,
tuna salad or Parma ham to traditional cream cheese,
then head over to this popular chain of bagel bistros. You
can also drink freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices,
although, try as we might, we cant seem to nd the ap-
peal of cucumber juice. You can also take advantage of
free wi-.QA-2, Raadhuisstraat 18, tel. (+31) 206 38 07
88, www.bagelsbeans.nl. Open 09:01 - 17:32, Sat, Sun
09:58 - 18:02. Also at Keizersgracht 504, tel.(+31) 203 30
55 08; Haarlemmerdijk 122, tel. (+31) 203 30 41 02. Open
08:59 - 17:31, Sun 10:02 - 17:01; Ferdinand Bolstraat 70,
tel. (+31) 206 72 16 10. Open 08:31 - 17:32, Sun 08:58 -
18:01; and many other locations. (5). ASW
BARBECUE
CAF DE KLOS
Although this place looks like an authentic Dutch brown
bar with solid wood furniture, wood panelling and imi-
tation Dutch master paintings collecting dust on their
chunky frames, the sta assured us that its actually a
restaurant specialising in barbecued meat of all kinds. Or-
der huge servings of spare ribs, smoked chicken, sirloins,
t-bones, lamb chops and prime rib guaranteed to make
a vegetarian salivate. A decent selection of beer is also on
draught including microbrews from De Bekeerde Suster,
which is owned by the same people.QF-7, Kerkstraat 41 -
43, tel. (+31) 206 25 37 30, www.beiaardgroep.eu. Open
16:00 - 24:00. (12 - 22).
BRAZILIAN
DO BRASIL
A lot of cows sacriced their lives to create the interior of
this steakhouse and Brazilian restaurant. Although it ap-
pears that most people opt for the cheaper grilled meat
specials like unlimited spare ribs, some more authentic
dishes such as tut mineiro (grilled pork sausages, fried
eggs, rice, vegetables and black beans) can be had for
roughly 20. Real Brazilian Brahma beer is also available
for a tidy sum of money, so you might want to stick with
the Dutch stu. Photos of carnival stars and the old coun-
try line the walls, but its the furry hides covering all of
the seats that really grab your attention.QF-8, Lange
Leidsedwarsstraat 86, tel. (+31) 206 22 63 32, www.
dobrasil.nl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (15 - 20). ABW
CAFETERIAS
LA PLACE
ample food from several dierent buets that each has
its own speciality from seafood, pizzas and sandwiches to
steaks and Asian stir fries all cooked to order. You can also
drop by for delicious desserts and coee and enjoy them
on the balcony overlooking Amsterdams busiest shop-
ping street below. With seating for over 300 people you
can choose the style that suits you best such as antique
tables with marble tops or modern furniture in the atrium.
QA-1, Kalverstraat 201 - 203 / Rokin 164, tel. (+31) 206
20 23 64, www.laplace.nl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Sun
11:00 - 20:00. Also at H-4, Oosterdokskade 143, tel. (+31)
205 23 08 70. (5 - 12). AS
CHINESE
NAM KEE
In our estimation the best Chinese places have crispy duck
and pork hanging in their shop front windows and this
popular place located opposite the FGS He Hua Temple
in Chinatown certainly ts the bill. Order exotic dishes
with prawns or maybe some eel or just skip the culinary
shenanigans and stick with the aforementioned food
hanging in the window which is delicious and costs only
half of what you would spend on the seafood dishes. The
maitre d loves to sing to both the patrons and himself and
is often caught in the act of singing to no one in particular.
QB-1, Zeedijk 111 - 113, tel. (+31) 206 24 34 70, www.
namkee.net. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (10 - 18).
NEW KING
We were a little apprehensive when we encountered New
King, because unlike so many other restaurants in China-
town, this one actually looks stylish with light coloured
wood panelling, red banners of Asian comic book charac-
ters eating food and dark brown wallpaper that looks like
snakeskin. Thankfully, this wasnt a case of interior design
prevailing over substance. The Mandarin and Indonesian
cuisine is delicious and the prices are surprisingly reason-
able, too! Order whole sh, steaming bowls of seafood,
crispy duck and pork, dim sum and some more exotic dishes
like frog legs.QB-1, Zeedijk 115 - 117, tel. (+31) 206 25 21
80, www.newking.nl. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (12 - 18). A
Amsterdams Chinatown is full of great restaurants and shops
Summer 2014 13 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Centrum
COFFEE & TEA
GREENWOODS ENGLISH TEAROOM
Take a seat in its cosy, rustically decorated interior and
order a hot drink with something sweet, sample one of
its healthy sandwiches or try a delicious breakfast like the
omelette with mozzarella and chorizo sausage, full Eng-
lish or eggs Benedict. Space is limited, especially at the
weekend when droves of people come here for brunch,
so it would be wise to call ahead and make a reservation.
During the summer Greenwoods also has a lovely terrace
on the canal.QA-2, Singel 103, tel. (+31) 206 23 70 71,
www.greenwoods.eu. Open 09:30 - 17:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
09:30 - 18:00. (5 - 9). B
DINERS
SOUP KITCHEN
No, its not the kind of soup kitchen you might have in mind
where the homeless and drug addicts queue up for free
food. For 4.50 you can choose from six dierent soups
including French onion, tomato, mushroom, spinach, tom
kha kai or sweet potato. You can also try burgers, a weak
interpretation of an English breakfast, omelettes and lled
baguettes. If you stick to the soup youll be alright and its lo-
cation on a corner near the station guarantees good people
watching. QA-1, Nieuwendijk 50, tel. (+31) 205 28 71 75,
www.soupkitchen.nl. Open 11:00 - 20:00. (5). S
DUTCH
HAESJE CLAES
This classic Dutch restaurant spans six historic Amsterdam
houses, many of which still retain their original architec-
tural features including medieval paintings, stained glass
windows and tile tableaux. Order traditional dishes like
pea soup with sausages and salted herring, not to mention
three dierent kinds of stamppot (potato and vegetable
mash). The service is a bit sti and formal, but the selec-
tion of beer from local city breweries De Prael and t IJ is as
good as it gets. Naturally, a good wine list is also available.
QA-2, Spuistraat 273 - 275, tel. (+31) 206 24 99 98, www.
haesjeclaes.nl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (15 - 22). AB
T LIEVERDJE
This unpretentious caf and bar named after a famous
statue of a small boy located around the corner serves up
classic homemade Dutch dishes as well as Indonesian-
style fried rice for aordable prices. A good selection of
strong Belgian beers and the locally made De Prael brew
are also at your disposal but bear in mind that the resident
cat might choose to sit in your lap if youre male. Appar-
ently, it doesnt like women or so the owner claims. A
pleasant rustic interior with large brass candelabras and
even an antique chandelier guarantee a cosy stay here, but
remember that during peek eating times youll have to sit
at the bar if you only want a drink. Tables are reserved for
hungry patrons. QA-3, Singel 415, tel. (+31) 625 58 11
56, www.tlieverdje.nl. Open 11:00 - 21:00. (6 - 12). B
FAST FOOD
GRILL STEAKHOUSE MAMA
The exalted name is a little optimistic and the faux brick
walls arent fooling anyone, but the shoarma is pretty
good, even at a steep 5 for a small pita. That said, the
sauce is truly spicy and the sta are constantly in motion
cutting meat and serving inebriated pub crawlers in the
middle of the night.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 56,
tel. (+31) 206 20 48 28. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00
- 04:00. (5 - 7). S
MANNEKEN PIS
Named after the Belgian capitals favourite little urinat-
ing rascal, this fast food frites shack on the Damrak has
become an Amsterdam institution. Order your deep-fried
potatoes in three sizes for 2.50, 3.50 and 4.50 and one
of 16 sauces is included in the price from traditional may-
onnaise or ketchup to an Indonesian peanut satay condi-
ment. Other Dutch snacks like frikandel and kroket can also
be had.QA-1, Damrak 41, www.mannekenpis.nl. Open
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (3 - 5). S
ICE CREAM
IJSCUYPJE
Even boats dock nearby on the Prinsengracht to enjoy
some of Amsterdams best ice cream and sorbet and with
avours like marzipan, coconut and raspberry, you wont
mind the queue of salivating patrons either. Prices are
aordable, but theres no seating so youll have to take
it away. QE-6, Prinsengracht 292, www.ijscuypje.nl.
Open 13:00 - 21:00. TJS
METROPOLITAN DELI
Although most venues on Warmoesstraat lure you inside
with large beer selections, erotic gadgets or a whi of pot
smoke, Metropolitan Deli tempts passers-by with a ow-
ing chocolate fountain and a huge display of freshly made
gelato in dozens of avours from pistachio and hazelnut
to cheesecake and even stroopwafel (caramel cookie). You
can also buy gourmet chocolates and chocolate avoured
beer! Recommended.QWarmoesstraat 135, tel. (+31)
203 30 19 55, www.metropolitandeli.nl. Open 09:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. AS
Outdoor terrace in the Jordaan
14 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Centrum
INDIAN
KAMASUTRA
Although most people are too distracted by the coe-
shops, sex shops and bars in the Red Light District to no-
tice this Indian restaurant, this appropriately named place,
given its location, is well worth a visit for anyone craving a
curry or a vindaloo. Order a Kingsher or Cobra beer and
take your pick of delicious Indian cuisine, which is pre-
pared by Indian chefs. If you dont believe us just take the
stairs to the cellar downstairs and youll see them toiling
away in the kitchen.QB-1, Lange Niezel 9, tel. (+31) 206
26 00 03, www.restaurantkamasutra.nl. Open 12:00 -
24:00. (15 - 20). AV
INDONESIAN
KANTJIL & DE TIJGER
Stylish, yet casual, Kantijl & de Tiger is a good option if
youre in the mood for tasty Indonesian cuisine from local
favourites like a variety of rijsttafels and nasi goring to deli-
cious desserts such as the green Javanese pancake with
coconut and palm sugar syrup. The exotic smells of the
sauces and seasonings are the rst thing one notices upon
entering as meals are prepared in an open-plan kitchen to
the left. Although the place does include some traditional
design features like a tiger, palm trees and bamboo, the
interior is generally a more modern aair. On a hot day its
delicious organic juices or the lemongrass ice tea really hit
the spot.QA-3, Spuistraat 291 - 293, tel. (+31) 206 20 09
94, www.kantjil.nl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -
23:00. (10 - 25). AB
ITALIAN
ASSAGGI
With many cuisines a purely traditional menu is a sign of
poverty or laziness, but thats not true of Italian food. The
homemade pasta at Assagi is served in a wide variety of
styles and its seafood dishes are particularly good, not to
mention aordable. The sta is friendly, the atmosphere
is pleasant and the desserts are excellent. Make sure to
save some room for the divine lemon pie.QD-5, Tweede
Egelantiersdwarsstraat 6, tel. (+31) 204 20 55 89, www.
assaggirestaurant.nl. Open 10:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - 23:00,
Wed 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (19 - 22). JGB
KX
BAR ITALIA
This restaurant and espresso bar has a somewhat bipolar
re and ice character. Its both the hottest spot to eat Ital-
ian food this season and also the coolest place to hang for
after-work drinks. With personnel shouting in Italian and
exquisite chandeliers lighting your traditionally baked piz-
zas, this venue is a great exotic spot to take a date, unless
of course she chooses the lobster, which will set you back
at least 35.QA-3, Rokin 81 - 83, tel. (+31) 206 20 24 42,
www.bar-italia.nl. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 -
04:00. (21 - 26). PJAIGK
KOREAN
YOKIYO
Take the steps downstairs to the entrance of this authentic
Korean restaurant and you wont be disappointed. Serv-
ing dinner the Korean way, Yokiyo teaches you to share
and ll its DIY-wraps of lettuce with the little snacks of
your choice. This method of eating might not be perfect
for a date scenario (think of the horrors of Korean kimchi
between your teeth at the long and less than private
tables), but Yokiyo pleasantly surprises with its simplicity.
The arty metal lamps dont hurt either.QB-1, Oudezijds
Voorburgwal 67, tel. (+31) 203 31 45 62, www.yokiyo.nl.
Open 18:30 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PJAGKW
MEXICAN
LOS PILONES
Although quite colourful, and denitely not lacking in the
dcor department, Los Pilones chose to forgo the usual
embellishments of sombreros and cacti in favour of Mexi-
can wrestling memorabilia including a giant mural of one
of the sports icons. The menu is limited to tortillas, soft
shell tacos and enchiladas, but the food is good and the
salsa that comes with the gratis chips is surprisingly spicy.
Get here early or youll be stuck on the wrong side of the
border.QD-5, Eerste Anjeliersdwarsstraat 4 - 6, tel. (+31)
206 20 03 23, www.lospilones.com. Open 16:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. (20 - 25). PTJAGBK
PANCAKES
THE PANCAKE BAKERY
Although this cellar pancake house feels a bit like a tourist
trap, it serves scores of authentic Dutch pancakes and thats
pretty much it. Each of its marble-topped tables has a big
ceramic bucket of local syrup with a wooden spoon as well
as a container of powdered sugar, the walls are covered in
Amsterdam memorabilia and the low timber ceilings are
simply charming, but the aroma of pancakes on the griddle
can be a little overwhelming by the kitchen. Order them
with bacon, onions and cheese, with ice cream and cinna-
mon or dozens of other toppings either sweet or savoury.
QE-4, Prinsengracht 191, tel. (+31) 206 25 13 33, www.
pancake.nl. Open 12:00 - 21:30. (8 - 15)
People watching on Leidseplein M.Zaprauskis
Summer 2014 15 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Centrum
PIZZA
LA PERLA
A couple of guys frantically stoke a wood-fuelled brick pizza
oven to keep up with the large demand for thin-crust pizzas
that have locals queued up outside. But this isnt a fancy, sit-
down establishment, although it does oer two counters and
some stools, which are almost always occupied. On weekend
nights, people order their gourmet pizzas baked with real
Mozzarella di Bufala di Campana cheese and then sip a glass of
wine or an Italian Dolimiti micro brew outside until one of the
master bakers runs over with their order. QD-5, Tweede Tu-
indwarsstraat 14, tel. (+31) 206 24 88 28, www.pizzaperla.
nl. Open 17:00 - 22:00. (10 - 12). AW
QUICK EATS
CAF DECK5
Although you shouldnt expect haute cuisine, this caf
is located on the rooftop terrace of one of Amsterdams
most unusual buildings - Science Center NEMO. You can
order sausage rolls, hot dogs, sandwiches with tuna, ham,
eggs or cheese or sample one of four day-glow coloured
slush puppy drinks, while admiring an amazing view of
the city centre. Beer and wine is also available as well as
ice cream, but bear in mind that youll have to climb up
some stairs to get there, unless you want to buy a ticket
to the museum.QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32
33, www.e-nemo.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:45. Closed Mon.
(2 - 4). AB
FEBO
This chain of snack bars, or rather snack shops, oers deep-
fried croquettes, frikandel and burgers promptly placed into
vending machines right after being made, which probably
sounds strange to tourists and thats precisely why you
just have to experience it. We prefer a spicy Dutch sausage
(frikandel) with an order of frites and mayo before or after
a night on the town, but others swear by the satekroket.
The snack options seem limitless here so deposit your coins
and see what comes out. Also available at over 20 locations
throughout town.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 33, tel.
(+31) 206 26 03 60, www.febodelekkerste.nl. Open 12:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. (1 - 3). JGS
STEAKHOUSES
ARGENTINO LUNA
Uruguayan footballer Luiz Suarezs shirt decorates one
of the walls of this wonderful restaurant. Its not big and
the tables are really cramped, but that seems only to con-
tribute to the cosy atmosphere. South Americans from
all over the Netherlands come here for the imported
steaks prepared by Argentinian grill masters and a cold
Quilmes beer. We recommend the entrecote steak with
Roquefort sauce and the Argentinian coee with a shot
of Legui liquor. Enjoy live music on Fridays and Saturdays.
QD-5, Lindengracht 152, tel. (+31) 206 27 41 49, www.
restaurantluna.nl. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00.
(25 - 30). TJA6UENGBKS
LA BRASA
Its hard to choose a steakhouse in Amsterdam, as they
are located on nearly every street corner, but this one has
certainly tried to get a leg up on its competition as far
as interior design goes. Every square meter of this place
from the walls to the ceiling is covered in wide, roughly
cut wooden planks, wagon wheels serve as chandeliers
and cowhides dangle from every available surface like
the set of an old western. You can of course get steaks
of varying sizes and cuts, but we recommend a splurge
as the special is tasty, but on the small side. Tuna steaks,
prawns and other seafood are also on oer as well as
Argentine beer.QB-1, Zeedijk 97, tel. (+31) 203 30 63
31, www.labrasa.nl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
01:00. (12 - 24). A
Cafe Deck 5s rooftop terrace at Science Center NEMO DigiDaan
BITTER... BALLS?
The name bitterballen, or
bitter balls, conjures up all
kinds of images and not
entirely wholesome ideas
from sour edibles hardly t
for consumption to a sex
toy you might nd in the
Red Light district. In fact, these deep-fried morsels of
God knows what are a staple of Dutch cuisine and are
on oer in nearly every caf throughout the country.
Youll see rened people in suits gulping down these
breadcrumb encrusted snacks at gallery openings just
as often as you see construction workers slowly chew-
ing them with a beer after a days work. Why slowly you
might ask. The soft interior, a ragout of meat, parsley,
onion, spices and other mystery ingredients is often
served at a temperature usually only seen in magma
chambers beneath volcanoes. This always creates inter-
esting facial expressions, unusual sucking sounds and
the inevitable grasping for any cold liquid available. If
youre too scared to try this national treat, watch our
video at www.inyourpocket.com/Netherlands/Amster-
dam/Restaurants. If you do decide to give it a go, then
dont forget to dip it in some tasty Dutch mustard.
16 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Centrum
THAI
BIRD
This Thai restaurant was one of the rst ethnic eateries to
open at the Zeedijk in the 1990s and to this day it claims
to prepare authentic meals that are even better than the
stu youd get in Thailand. A bold statement to be sure,
but it might just be true. Waiters in traditional dress serve
some of the best fresh green and red curries you can get
in Amsterdam with as much white rice as you can eat. The
interior is rather less authentic, but even Christmas lights
mixed with plastic Buddhas cant spoil a truly satisfying
meal at Bird.QB-1, Zeedijk 72 - 74, tel. (+31) 206 20 14
42, www.thai-bird.nl. Open 17:00 - 23:00. (12 - 17).
PTJAGKS
CHAO PHRAYA
The popularity of this restaurant may owe more to its
prime location on the Nieuwmarkt, especially in summer,
than to its lacklustre service, which was curt and lacking
the smile for which the Thai people are so famous. The red
and green curries, seafood and assorted fried rice dishes
are, however, tasty and free wi- and sports on TV are also
nothing to sneeze at. The shrimp with noodles dinner was
huge, but a bit short on the delicious sea creatures.QB-2v,
Nieuwmarkt 8 - 10, tel. (+31) 204 27 63 34. Open 11:00 -
23:00. (12 - 18). ABW
TIBETAN
SNOW LION
The otherwise ordinary beige interior of this restaurant
is punctuated by colourful images of the Buddha on one
side and the Dalai Lama on the other. The waitress dressed
in traditional garb had decidedly Tibetan features, which
gave us our rst clue that we may have come to the right
place. Order classic drinks like butter tea or something
with a little more kick and then move on to vegetarian or
meat dishes with curry, noodles or rice or try the special
beef dish which was incredibly spicy just the way we like
it. But dont worry. The sta are kind enough to ask how
hot you like your food when they take your order. Compli-
mentary spicy, deep-fried noodles on each table were also
a nice touch.QE-4, Haarlemmerstraat 50, tel. (+31) 204
22 77 76. Open 16:00 - 22:00. (15)
TURKISH
GLLOGLU
All the goodies that the Turkish culinary tradition has to oer
can be found at this popular Amsterdam institution. Since
1871 Gllolu has used its secret family recipes to create
wonderful handmade desserts like baklava, Anatolias most
famous treat. The exquisite avour of these recipes have be-
come so beloved that Gllolu has the honour of calling
itself the biggest baklava baker in the world with establish-
ments in dozens of countries including Libya. You can also
enjoy other pastries, pies and cakes and all can be enjoyed
with real Turkish coee. QB-3, Reguliersbreestraat 7, tel.
(+31) 203 20 42 00, www.gulluoglu.nl. Open 09:00 -
22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. JKS
UPMARKET RESTAURANTS
&SAMHOUD PLACES
Israeli chef Moshik Roth has brought the fascinating world
of molecular gastronomy to the Oosterdokseiland, not far
from the Central Station. Although a three- or six-course
meal will cost you roughly the same as a one-night stay at a
fancy Amsterdam hotel, this chic hotspot is a must for true
foodies. If you appreciate good food, but not the price tag
then reserve a spot in the lounge, which has a much more
aordable menu. Did we mention that &Samhoud Places
has two Michelin stars?QG-4, Oosterdokskade 5, tel. (+31)
202 60 20 94, www.samhoudplaces.com. Open 12:00 -
01:00, Tue 18:30 - 01:00, Sat 15:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. (three-course meal 130). AL
Rembrandtplein is full of cafs and terraces M.Zaprauskis
CAFS & CAFETRIAS
The Oxford English Dictionary denes a caf as a small
restaurant selling light meals and drinks but also adds
that in North America its a bar or nightclub, while in
South Africa a caf is a shop selling sweets, cigarettes,
newspapers, etc. To add to this confusion it also men-
tions that the word is derived from the French mean-
ing coee or coee house. Obviously in Amsterdam
coeeshops are something entirely dierent. So per-
haps the Anglo-Saxons are to blame and simply cant
properly dene this most popular of establishments.
But surely the Dutch can, right? Well, not really. In fact,
locals often refer to bars as cafs and, to add even more
confusion to this complicated linguistic problem, they
call what the English consider a caf a lunchroom.
Americans would probably call these lunchrooms
cafeterias. Confused yet? In this guide weve tried to
simplify things by listing places where you put your
own food on a tray as a cafeteria and a caf as a laid
back venue thats good for a coee and a light meal or
breakfast. Weve also made a category for classic cafs
that includes historic institutions with lots of local col-
our. Naturally, you can nd many of these caf qualities
at a diner or a greasy spoon, too, but well refrain from
opening up that can of worms.
Summer 2014 17 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Centrum
CAFS
Amsterdam caf culture is simply fantastic. You can sit in
an historic establishment thats over 100 years old or sip a
special coee poured by a professional barrista.
CAF FONTEYN
The faded oral print wallpaper and wobbly chairs might
make one suspect that Fonteyn has fallen on hard times,
but that couldnt be farther from the truth. A laid back atmo-
sphere, a good selection of beers including one or two brews
from the IJ brewery and a huge summer terrace on the Nieu-
wmarkt make it popular with locals and tourists alike, espe-
cially bohemian 20-somethings. You can also order vitamin
drinks, 100% fruit juices like apple-rhubarb and cocktails after
16:00. Sandwiches and Dutch snacks can also be had, but it
doesnt serve proper dinners. An iced cappuccino does, how-
ever, hit the spot on a hot and sunny day.QB-2, Nieuwmarkt
13 - 15, tel. (+31) 204 22 35 99, www.cafefonteyn.nl. Open
10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. BW
CAF GEORGE
This stylish caf is the perfect place to spend a lazy day
with a good book. With views of the Leidsegracht outside,
an industrial interior of white tile walls, long leather bench-
es and even a dog area, not to mention great food from
eggs Benedict or eggs cooked any way you like to gour-
met sandwiches and salads, George has all bases covered.
Top shelf alcohol can also be had as well as Champagne.
QE-8, Leidsegracht 84, tel. (+31) 206 26 08 02, www.
cafegeorge.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (7 - 14). AB
CAF KOBALT
Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night cocktails,
this incredibly popular eating and drinking establish-
ment is located in a medieval building with, rough, worn
oors, ancient timber ceilings and columns and a typically
gabled exterior not far from the station. Locals know that a
table reservation is a wise choice in the evening and even
in the afternoon if one wants to enjoy aordable Dutch
and international cuisine not to mention a good selection
of draught beers from the Amsterdam IJ brewery. You can
also listen to DJs on Friday nights and live jazz on Sundays
from 17:00.QE-4, Singel 2a, tel. (+31) 203 20 15 59, www.
cafekobalt.nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00,
Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (8 - 15). AIEB
CAF SONNEVELD
Located on a busy intersection in the heart of the Jordaan,
this classic caf is always alive with the din of happy locals
sipping wine, beer and cocktails. Although a great pit stop
for a drink, Sonneveld also serves good food from break-
fasts and sandwiches to steaks and even seafood. The
huge wooden bar nearly separates the caf in two so you
can sit in the sunny area or in the slightly darker section on
the other side. Naturally, in summer a seat outside is your
best bet.QD-6, Egelantiersgracht 72-74, tel. (+31) 204
23 42 87, www.cafesonneveld.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Thu, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (8 - 15). AB
CLASSIC CAFS
BEURS VAN BERLAGE
If youd like to see where locals eat, drink and chat over
beer, wine, breakfast food and gourmet sandwiches, then
this little slice of history housed in the monumental Beurs
van Berlage building is the place to go. Not only can you
get a good meal, but you can also admire this legendary
example of Amsterdam School architecture and design
from the inside with its vaulted ceilings and characteris-
tic tile tableaux by Jan Toorop. The acoustics of the hall
makes for a boisterous meal among Amsterdammers.QA-
2, Damrak 277 (entrance from Beurseplein), tel. (+31)
205 31 33 55, www.beursvanberlage.nl/caf. Open 10:00
- 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (8 - 15). AB
CAF DE ZWART
This tiny, classic old world caf boasts an inticate, multico-
loured tile oor, dark wood panneling and inlaid parquet
table tops. A full bar of spirits is manned by a mustachioed
gentleman in a crisp white shirt from whom you can or-
der coee, tea and a good selection of local and Belgian
draught beers. Snacks like tostis and liverwurst sandwich-
es are also on oer as well as a large outdoor terrace with
great views of the hubbub on the square. Food and drink
are surprisingly cheap.QA-3, Spuistraat 334, tel. (+31)
206 24 65 11. Open 09:00 - 01:00. B
CAF SCHELTEMA
This classic Dutch caf, brown bar and beerhall is so au-
thentic its a virtual museum of Amsterdam eating and
drinking culture. Its worn wooden tables, oors and wall
panelling have been around for ages, not to mention the
antique memorabilia that seems to cover every available
space. An old stove in the centre of the room keeps pa-
trons warm on cold days or perhaps its the jenever and a
good selection of Low Country beers that keeps the chill
away. Snacks, sandwiches, soups and local main courses
are available as well as salads but we recommend the
French onion soup or one of its hearty country-style om-
elettes.QA-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 242, tel. (+31)
206 23 23 23. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. (7 - 18).
Canalside al fresco dining in the city centre
18 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Centrum
NIGHTLIFE
Once again, the following is but a fraction of the nightlife
reviews that weve covered in Amsterdam Centrum. For a
full list of pubs, clubs and Red Light hot spots as well as
videos visit www.amsterdam.inyourpocket.com.
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
CASA ROSSO
This iconic live sex theatre provides continuous action
for as long as you like. The programme varies over the
course of the evening and ranges in theme from simple
strip numbers and couples fornicating on a rotating bed to
lesbian lovers and vibrator acts. In fact, it seems that Casa
Rosso provides something for all of the popular fetishes
including a husky woman so as not to neglect the chubby
chasers among us.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 106
- 108, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.casarosso.nl. Open
19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Admission: 35; 50
including four drinks. A
THE BANANEN BAR & CLUB
Downstairs for 50 you can drink all you can swill for one
hour on the lounge bar with a variety of talented women
who can do all kinds of interesting things with ping pong
balls, markers and of course bananas. Upstairs is the club,
which has a, shall we say, more dignied atmosphere
where guests pay 10 admission to sit by the pole where
beautiful women show their moves in various states of
undress. Ordering drinks is mandatory.QB-1, Oudezi-
jds Achterburgwal 37, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.
bananenbar.nl. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 -
03:00. Admission: bar 45, club 10.
BARS
BIBLOS
It would take the better part of a day just to describe all of
the junk and clutter that hangs from the ceiling and walls
at Biblos, but here it is in a nutshell: two canoes, 100 or
so licence plates from around the globe, currency both
young and very old, boxing gloves, boat oars, ski poles,
bowling pins and lots and lots of vinyl records. What else
can we say about the atmosphere? Its smoky, packed with
both foreigners and locals and fun. Although plenty of
beers and cocktails are available, shots seem to be popular.
QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 243, tel. (+31) 206 26 21 70. Open
21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. AX
BRANDSTOF
Located across the street from the re department, Brand-
stof (ammable materials) is absolutely incandescent at
the weekend and given the huge crowds that congregate
here, this trendy caf-cum-club could denitely be a re
hazard. Youll have to wait a while until you nally reach
the bar, which is dimly illuminated by two large street
lamps, so order enough drinks to keep you wet for a while.
Although popular with a beautiful, yet casually dressed
clientele of 20- and 30-somethings in the evenings, its
also a good place for an early breakfast or a light lunch.
QD-6, Marnixstraat 357, tel. (+31) 204 22 08 13, www.
bar-brandstof.nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. AB
CAF DE KOE
We really like this laid back place where you can enjoy a
good brew or cocktail with a board game during the day
or attempt to mark your territory among dozens of rowdy
patrons at night. Its kind of like walking into a friends house
party except your best buddy probably doesnt have a gi-
ant white mural of a cow in his living room or glittering
wallpaper plastered to the ceiling above his bar. Alternative
rock tunes enjoy a prominent position here, which is a good
thing, but the tempting smells from the restaurant below
can bring on a premature case of the munchies.QE-7, Mar-
nixstraat 381, tel. (+31) 206 25 44 82, www.cafedekoe.nl.
Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. A
CAF SOUND GARDEN
Being old Seattle sound enthusiasts ourselves, we had to
come to this dive bar to see what all the fuss was about.
Would you believe it that as we walked in, Soundgarden was
blaring from the speakers? Okay, it was actually Audioslave,
but pretty damn close. If youd like to see what an old squat-
ters bar probably looked like before they sold out (but with
more Americans), then this is the place to go. You can play
pool or foosball inside or hit the private canalside terrace,
which must infuriate the posh neighbours next door in the
evenings when things heat up. Inside theres also a smok-
ing room, not to mention a huge painting of Henry Rollins
performing in naught but his undies.QD-6, Marnixstraat
164 - 166, tel. (+31) 206 20 28 53, www.cafesoundgarden.
nl. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. EBX
RED LIGHT STREETS
Dont be one of those tour-
ists fresh o the train that asks
the nearest local where the
Red Light District is located.
Its not hard to nd so just walk
straight down the Damrak, as
most people do, and make a
left at the Grasshopper. Then
just keep walking pretty much
straight ahead until you hit Ou-
dezijds Voorburgwal and, one
canal farther, Oudezijds Achterburgwal, which is the
main strip with lots of ladies and most of the sex thea-
tres. The area surrounding the Oude Kerk (Old Church)
is also chock full of working girls and you should de-
nitely walk down the tiny alleys of Trompettersteeg,
Bethlemsteeg and Goldbergersteeg nearby. Although
not as popular with tourists, theres also a street full of
red lights between the Spuistraat and the Singel on
Oude Nieuwstraat.
Summer 2014 19 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Centrum
CAF WIENER
Wiener is a real drinking mans bar, which is perhaps the
reason we stumbled in here on our way home from a long
night out. The area behind the bar is crammed with an-
cient cassette tapes and photos of half forgotten evenings,
while large sized panties and bras are stapled to ceiling
a memento of earlier days when buxom women once
frequented the place. Today its a venue for smoking ciga-
rettes, heavy drinking, darts and Ajax football. Its also usu-
ally open quite late.QB-1, Lange Niezel 8, tel. (+31) 206
24 58 09. Open . Closed Tue. X
LOUIS BAR (CAF DE DAM)
This place claims to be Amsterdams smallest bar and it
really is quite tiny. Hundreds of beer coasters adorn the
walls and just as many football scarves dangle from the
ceiling. American law enforcement patches and plenty of
Beatles memorabilia also contribute to the dcor of this
iconic watering hole where classic rock seems to dominate
the musical landscape and the beer selection is decent, if
a bit pricey. A sign reads Tipping isnt a city in China and if
you do decide to leave your bartender some coins hell put
them in a wooden Ajax shoe behind the bar.QA-2, Dam-
straat 4, tel. (+31) 206 24 53 31. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 03:00. BS
BEER BARS
BEER TEMPLE
The word temple isnt mere hyperbole. If youre into Amer-
ican craft brews you might just be tempted to drop to your
knees in awe and reverence at the sight of the huge black-
board that lists hundreds of beers by such brewing heavy-
weights as Samuel Adams, Saranac, Anchor, Brooklyn and
Flying Dog. Roughly 20 beers are available on draught,
including the house Tempelbier, but most are in bottles.
If youve had your ll of ales and IPAs, you can try some
rare and exotic libations like the 32% Tactical Nuclear Pen-
guin brew. Good pub grub like wings, burgers, hot dogs
and Trappist cheeses can also be had here.QA-2, Nieu-
wezijds Voorburgwal 250, tel. (+31) 206 27 14 27, www.
beertemple.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00, Sat
14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. ABW
IN DE WILDEMAN
Just look at the chalkboard above the door to see whats
on draught at one of Amsterdams best beer bars, which
is located in a former distillery. Even brew hounds like us
are a little overwhelmed in a place like this, but thankfully
the friendly sta can suggest one of the nearly 20 beers
available on draught or perhaps one of the 200 brews In
de Wildeman oers in bottles. If youre still not convinced,
the bartender will pour you a small sample to taste be-
fore you order. The spacious interior consists of the usual
wooden tables, but also a black and white tiled oor and
a long green bar. Traditional snacks from liverwurst and
cheese to frites are also available.QA-1, Kolksteeg 3, tel.
(+31) 206 38 23 48, www.indewildeman.nl. Open 12:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
BILLIARDS & POOL
THE POOL HOLE
Unlike most pool halls, this one also has plenty of areas
where you can sit down and relax without the unmistakable
clack-clack of billiard balls smacking into one another. That
said, this partially sunken cellar oers half a dozen tables
and a laid back Bohemian atmosphere with good tunes on
the sound system and lots of candlelight.QA-3, Voetboog-
straat 3, tel. (+31) 203 30 08 13, www.thepoolhole.com.
Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AB
BREW PUBS
DE BIERFABRIEK
This huge beer hall is so large it has entrances from two
parallel streets. Two of the brews on oer are produced
on the premises, the dark and slightly sweet Nero and
the reddish and fruity Rosso, while the pilsner is made by
the family-owned ALFA brewery. In addition to the usual
snacks and salads, a few main courses listed on the black-
board are available, but youd be mad not to try the Cor-
nish game hens, which you can see (and smell) roasting
behind a large glass partition. Whole peanuts are piled on
each table, too, but dont be afraid to throw the shells on
the oor. The sta actually encourages this! You can also
skip the middleman and choose a table with your own
beer tap.QA-3, Rokin 75, tel. (+31) 205 28 99 10, www.
bierfabriek.com. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00,
Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. A
PROEFLOKAAL DE PRAEL
Hidden in a narrow alley between two of the city centres
busiest pedestrian streets youll nd the tasting room of
the De Prael microbrewery. Sample all of the companys
beers in an atmosphere thats too hip and positively over-
whelming to describe. Three levels of old mismatched
furniture, white tiles, faux Persian rugs, wooden tables and
beer memorabilia await you in a space thats industrial,
old-fashioned and modern all at once, not to mention the
actual brewery itself visible behind a glass wall. Good pub
grub is also on the menu and rock tunes dominate the
soundtrack.QB-1, Oudezijds Armsteeg 26, tel. (+31) 204
08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. A
Proeokaal De Prael is a great place for a local brew
20 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Centrum
BROWN BARS
CAF CHRIS
Only a ve-minute walk from the Anne Frank House is a
place that claims to be Amsterdams oldest continuously
running caf. Its said that the place came into existence
in 1624 as a public bar for the Westerkerks construction
workers who recieved their salaries here and probably
left most of it on the premises too. The selection of beer
is nothing special in comparison to the curiousities of the
place itself like the old toilet pull chain on the wall outside
the bathroom.QE-5, Bloemstraat 42, tel. (+31) 206 24 59
42, www.cafechris.nl. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 -
02:00, Sun 15:00 - 21:00. JGB
CAF KARPERSHOEK
It could very well be that you have to be a person of the
male persuasion to appreciate this bar. Around since 1606
or 1629, depending on whom you talk to, it considers itself
to be Amsterdams oldest bar and after checking out the
shabby furniture and sand-worn oors it wont get any ar-
gument from us. Roughly 400 years ago sailors and other
rough characters could sit here and admire the view of the
ships on the IJ way before the train station cut o this port
city from the water. Today you can sip a local beer or jen-
ever here with middle-aged men who kiss one another on
the cheek in manly fashion.QA-1, Martelaarsgracht 2, tel.
(+31) 206 24 78 86. Open 11:00 - 01:00.
CAF PAPENEILAND
This unusual brown bar dating back to 1642 oers great
views of canals and church spires from its excellent posi-
tion at the picturesque intersection of the Prinsengracht
and the Brouwersgracht. Inside youll nd an antique in-
terior of wood furniture, old blue and white tiles on the
walls and a beautiful, if a bit dusty, Delft chandelier. Other
outstanding dcor features include copper bed warmers,
an ornately decorated cast iron stove and white Christmas
lights strung from the high ceiling. Unlike other bars of
its genre, Caf Papeneiland also oers seating above the
claustrophobic bar where patrons are allowed to smoke.
Sip a jenever with one of the old-timers or order one of a
handful of beers on draught.QE-4, Prinsengracht 2, tel.
(+31) 206 24 19 89, www.papeneiland.nl. BX
CAF PIEPER
According to the plaque on the wall, and the bartender,
this ancient bar on the picturesque Prinsengracht has
been around since 1665 and having a look around the
place the only things that would make you think other-
wise are the modern music, current events posters and the
shiny coee machine. Everything else in this classic brown
bar, including its worn oorboards, low timber ceiling and
faded stained glass windows, looks its age. Order a tasty
local beer or maybe a La Choue by the gas re on a typi-
cal wet and rainy Amsterdam day or grab a seat outside for
a little sunshine and a smoke.QF-8, Prinsengracht 424,
tel. (+31) 206 26 47 75. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 03:00. B
CAF SLIJTERIJ OOSTERLING
This wonderful bar has been serving thirsty Amsterdam-
mers since 1877. A mix of young and elderly patrons play
cards, sip jenever or knock back strong Belgian and Dutch
double bocks here under the shadow of a huge antique ad
for Oosterling liquors at the far end. Huge barrels of spirits
decorate the right-hand wall and hang precariously over
the heads of the local clientele, but the bars most curi-
ous feature is the height of its hip-high bar with match-
ing stools that look like a Tolkien-inspired tavern expect-
ing Hobbits for happy hour.QH-7, Utrechtsestraat 140,
tel. (+31) 206 23 41 40. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00
- 20:00.
DE DRUIF
Although the building supposedly dates back to 1585, the
bar opened in 1631 making it one of Amsterdams oldest.
The views have changed, but in all likelihood the interior
hasnt experienced much tampering over the centuries
and thats the way that the middle-aged to elderly patrons
like it. Wooden jenever barrels are lined up behind the bar
and the wooden table in the back room is covered with
a carpet in keeping with Hollands oddball interior design
traditions. A few interesting draught beers are available in
addition to local spirits and you can pu away on a cigar or
a cigarette with the rest of the old salts here.QI-4, Rapen-
burgerplein 83, tel. (+31) 206 24 45 30. Open 15:00 -
24:00. Closed Tue. BX
DE PILSENER CLUB (DE ENGELSE REET)
Tucked away in a tiny alleyway o the Kalverstraat, this
simple brown bar is perhaps best known for the fact that
it really has no bar to speak of. Polite male gentlemen in
neckties pour a wide variety of delicious brews from a
back alcove/closet area lending this dark room an odd,
yet old world atmosphere. The peeling wallpaper, wrin-
kled lithographs of Amsterdam and sand-covered oor
only add to the feeling that De Pilsener Club is a time
capsule that only locals and the occasional wayward
tourist bother to enter. But in our opinion, its a welcome
respite from the international chains and big brands that
line the citys main shopping artery outside.QA-3, Begij-
nensteeg 4, tel. (+31) 206 23 17 77. Open 12:00 - 01:00.
Closed Sun.
Knocking a few back at the Heineken Experience
Summer 2014 21 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Centrum
A FAREWELL TO PINTS
Unless youre at an Irish pub or
sports bar where you can get a
proper pint or half liter mug, beer
glasses in the Netherlands tend
to come in dainty sizes more
suitable for children or ladies
who lunch. This does take some
getting used to. A man of 6ft and
over holding a 0.25l glass of beer does look (how to put
it diplomatically?) a little eeminate. Back home in Eng-
land, Ireland, America or wherever if your mates spot-
ted you drinking from such a puny glass, youd prob-
ably feel like your sister just caught you trying on one
of her dresses, but in Amsterdam even longshoremen
and street tus swill their brews from these miniature
tea set receptacles. Relax. Youre in Holland now.
CASINOS & GAMBLING
HOLLAND CASINO
Located on the water between Leidseplein and the Ri-
jksmuseum, this stylish casino has plenty of eating and
drinking options and a great summer terrace. Inside youll
nd well-known games like poker, roulette, black jack and
loads of slot machines in two separate halls and focused
gamblers seated in expensive leather chairs doing battle
with machines with imaginative names.QF-8, Max Euwe-
plein 62, tel. (+31) 205 21 11 11, www.hollandcasino.nl.
Open 12:00 - 03:00. POJAUGKX
CLUBS
BARKODE
This club which opened at the end of 2012 calls itself the
home base of techno, tech-house and deephouse and
thats actually no exaggeration. A visit to Barkode is going
back to basics on the three levels. You might expect the
club, which is the successor of what was once Club Home
near the Amstel to be bigger, but the atmosphere is in-
timate and clearly for lovers of international techno acts
with parties like Raven is Leven and Nachtcollege. If you
like your music to be bubbly and smooth, this is not the
place for you.QB-3, Wagenstraat 3-7, tel. (+31) 206 20
13 75, www.barkodeamsterdam.nl. Open 23:00 - 04:00,
Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A
CLUB ESCAPE
Dont let the name fool you. When partying in Amster-
dam, theres no real escaping this large collection of clubs,
unsubtly situated at the Rembrandtplein. Since 1986,
Escape has been successfully run by twin brothers. The
shrill house music in Escape Club wont appeal to every-
one, but you can move on to four other separate areas:
Deluxe, Studio, Ca and Lounge. Feeling fooled anyway
because youre caught between high school students and
tourists? For more class, you can always escape to Jimmy
Woos.QB-3, Rembrandtplein 11, tel. (+31) 206 22 11 11,
www.escape.nl. Open , Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 -
05:00, Sun 23:00 - 04:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. AE
NACHTTHEATER SUGAR FACTORY
Were more at home at a punk rock show than a house
club, but even we could sense that something special
was afoot at the Sugar Factory. A diverse crowd of teens
through 40-somethings genuinely appreciate the profes-
sional international DJs from as far away as the States, who
know how to get a crowd moving here. The style is casual
so dont worry about your trainers and leave your D&G
gear at home. This isnt exactly the place for the supercial
glitterati. Sugar Factory is all about the music. Belly up to
the bronze-covered bar, order a drink and join the action.
Unlike the crowded faux clubs on Leidseplein blasting
Top 40, this place is the real deal.QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht
238, tel. (+31) 206 27 00 08, www.sugarfactory.nl. Open
Thu, Sun 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed. Admission: 5 - 12. AE
NYX
The numerous glow-in-the-dark stairs, the techno blasts
and live music on dierent levels as well as the wood,
rusty metal and concrete grati-clad walls of this gay-
friendly venue put one in mind of a Berlin squat, which is
a refreshing deviation from most of Amsterdams polished
hotspots. Visit NYX for an adventure and to mingle with
the clientele, which is neither exclusively gay or straight,
but beware of stealthy and not-so-stealthy looks.QG-8,
Reguliersdwarsstraat 42, www.clubnyx.nl. Open , Thu
23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. A
STUDIO 80
Every week, a long line of hipsters and art academy stu-
dents are checked by a door Nazi at the entrance of Stu-
dio 80 located at the busy Rembrandtplein. As one of the
places to be for contemporary electro music, the club has
weekly and monthly events aimed at the young music fa-
natic. Dance the night away in the big main hall or lounge
on the couches in the back. Apart from the music, the sight
of the long queue of well-dressed clubbers is also worth a
look.QB-3, Rembrandtplein 17, tel. (+31) 205 21 83 33,
www.studio-80.nl. Open Wed, Thu 23:00 - 03:30, Fri,
Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PJUG
WINSTON KINGDOM
The sleaziness of touristy Warmoesstraat, Amsterdams no-
toriously naughty street, might make one think twice about
a visit to Winston Kingdom, but that would be a mistake.
This dark grati-sprayed club actually oers decent dance
nights and smashing live performances from tomorrows
big indie acts like The Gaslight Anthem who have both
played here. Filled with a surprising mix of lost tourists and
music-loving locals, this is an excellent escape from the War-
moes, but theres plenty of sleaze to nd here too, if youre
really looking for it.QA-2, Warmoesstraat 131, tel. (+31)
206 23 13 80, www.winston.nl. Open 21:00 - 04:00, Fri,
Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Admission: 5 - 10. E
22 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Centrum
COCKTAILS
HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT
This prize-winning cocktail bar right at the edge of the city
centre oozes atmosphere from the brownish coloured bar
and the exclusive 1920s-style living room to the aptly named
cocktails (the Coco Chanel, the Pink Lady, the Brooklyn) and
the live music from the house band, not to mention the styl-
ishly dressed owners Guillermo and Vera. The place is often
packed and reservations are required if youre coming with a
group so its denitely no longer hidden.QH-5, Rapenburg
18, tel. (+31) 625 29 36 20, www.hpsamsterdam.com.
Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. A
SKYLOUNGE
One of the best views of the historic heart of Amsterdam
can now be found at SkyLounge. This trendy cocktail bar
on the 11th oor of the DoubleTree by Hilton is a purveyor
of delicious and expensive drinks, but the terric view of
the city centre is actually priceless. Fortunately, the sta
are a little slow at this altitude so you can make your elabo-
rate cocktail last quite a while at this breathtaking loca-
tion.QG/H-4, Oosterdoksstraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 30 08
00, doubletree.hilton.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 03:00. PJAULGBKXW
COMEDY CLUBS
BOOM CHICAGO
This is the only English-language comedy club in Amster-
dam. Every night you can watch an evening of improv and
skits la Saturday Night Live performed by the citys fun-
niest English-speakers in a theatre cleverly hidden by its
bar/restaurant. The admission is steep, but Amsterdams
American and British expats dont seem to mind as Friday
and Saturday nights usually sell out. You can also order
food and drink in the auditorium or just relax at the bar
downstairs and save yourself 20. Most performances
begin at 20:15, but visit its website for exact show times.
QF-7, Leidseplein 12, tel. (+31) 204 23 01 01, www.
boomchicago.nl. Admission: 20. AK
IRISH PUBS
MOLLY MALONES
Although this cosy cellar pub has had a Celtic makeover
with an Irish ag, Guinness memorabilia and the odd
shamrock, there are also plenty of old Dutch liquor casks
lined up against the wall like the ones you see at local
jenever joints. Order a Kilkenny and some Irish salmon or
spare ribs, watch football on SkySports and listen to oc-
casional live music on weekend nights here. Naturally,
plenty of whiskey is also on oer including some good
single malts. Although it has all the makings of yet another
tourist trap, its location on a quiet canal lends it a laid
back quality thats hard to nd at similar establishments.
QB-1, Oudezijds Kolk 9, tel. (+31) 206 24 11 50, www.
mollyinamsterdam.com. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:30 -
03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. AEB
JENEVER BARS
IN DE OLOFSPOORT
The historic building that houses this charming bar was
built in 1618 and replaced the 14th-century St. Olafs Gate,
hence its unusual name. The Olofspoort oers over 200
dierent spirits including traditional and exotic local jen-
evers, Dutch liqueurs and bitters as well as homemade
cherry and liquorice liqueurs. Beer drinkers wont be disap-
pointed either as the Belgian Aigem Double on draught
is delicious. Unlike other tasting rooms of it genre, this
one provides plenty of space for its patrons in two large
rooms, but make a note of its limited opening hours.QB-
1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 13, tel. (+31) 206 24 39 18, www.
olofspoort.com. Open 16:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 15:00 -
01:30, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. A
WYNAND FOCKINK
This ancient room that looks more like a neglected mu-
seum than a popular bar and tourist attraction has been
serving unique Dutch liqueurs and spirits with names like
Rose Without Thorns, Bridal Tears and My Aunts Water
since 1679. A thick layer of dust covers all of the empty
antique bottles as well as the full ones that cause the
wooden shelves to sag precariously above one another.
Unfortunately, its a little hard to nd as the Krasnapolsky
Hotel has enveloped it over the years, but if you do even-
tually get here dont forget to slurp your liqueur without
using your hands when you take your rst sip a local tra-
dition.QA-2, Pijlsteeg 31, tel. (+31) 206 39 26 95, www.
wynand-fockink.nl. Open 15:00 - 21:00.
LIVE MUSIC
ALTO JAZZ CAF
This legendary Amsterdam club is about as long as a train
car, but perhaps even narrower. Youll denitely have to
make some physical contact with other music enthusiasts
to get to the stage where live jazz, funk or salsa acts perform
every night in front of a packed crowd of hipsters, locals and
foreigners in the know. Its dark the way a jazz club should
be and has something of a clandestine speakeasy feel to it.
Theres no cover charge, but even simple drinks like a Jack
and Coke can set you back dearly.QF-8, Korte Leidsed-
warsstraat 115, tel. (+31) 206 26 32 49, www.jazz-cafe-
alto.nl. Open 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. AE
Lots of birds in the Red Light district M.Zaprauskis
Summer 2014 23 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Centrum
BOURBON STREET
This place actually looks a bit like a barn on the inside with
the exception of the musical instruments hanging from
the rafters and the chandeliers hanging above the bar. At
the weekend its hard to manoeuvre through the sea of
bodies assembled here to listen to blues and rock bands
and the bouncers dont seem to have any qualms about
letting as many people in as is physically possible, but at
least youre getting real entertainment for your 5 cover
and not the blaring Top 40 and techno at neighbouring
bars. If youd like to use the toilet, try coming on a week-
night. Live music every evening.QF-7, Leidsekruisstraat
6 - 8, tel. (+31) 206 23 34 40, www.bourbonstreet.nl.
Open 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission:
3 - 5. AE
PUBS
CAF THIJSSEN
Named after the bloke whose statue graces the square
outside, this friendly neighbourhood pub is frequented
by people of all ages and stripes and is known for its im-
pressive beer selection and huge, yet casual terrace that
instantly quadruples the bars capacity each summer. The
interior is pure bruin caf with a long bar that is only knee-
high on one side. No matter, tiny stools were added to
compensate for the lack of altitude. A huge cupboard is
stocked with board games from checkers and chess to Risk
and that old school classic Boggle. Some snacks, sand-
wiches and breakfasts can also be had and wi- is avail-
able, but bear in mind that Thijssen only accepts cash.QE-
4, Brouwersgracht 107, tel. (+31) 206 23 89 94, www.
cafethijssen.nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat
07:30 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. BW
DE KONINGSHUT
There are so many pubs, shops and cafs on the Spuistraat,
that its easy to miss this little gem, but denitely keep your
eyes open if you like cosy pubs with an excellent selection
of beer including the powerful Zatte from the Amsterdam
IJ brewery. The interior is not unlike a brown bar, with per-
haps the exception of the mounted stags heads, the TV,
which is only tuned on for local sporting events, and the
old leather headrests that line the wall. You can order a
full menu of classic Dutch cuisine and nger food from the
Haesje Claes restaurant next door.QA-3, Spuistraat 269,
tel. (+31) 206 24 99 98, www.haesjeclaes.nl. Open 16:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. AB
OLD SAILOR PUB
Just look for the neon Popeye sign to nd this popular
Red Light district pub. Inside you wont see sea captains
with eye patches or other old salts, but rather tourists and
stag parties drinking heavily or watching sports on TV or
both. If it werent for the crowds one might even admire
the maritime interior of model sailing vessels, chandeliers
made from ships wheels and nautical lamps. Most people,
however, come here for the cheap drinks.QB-1, Oudezi-
jds Achterburgwal 39A, tel. (+31) 206 24 77 39. AB
SPORTS BARS
TEASERS
Its rened motto babes and beer curiously neglects to
mention sports. The beer part is obvious. Youre on the
Damrak so a pint of Heineken will set you back 6.50 and
as far as the babes go well give you a hint. That doesnt
refer to the clientele, but rather the beautiful waitresses
in cheerleader outts that take turns dancing on the bar.
Teasers also has about a dozen TVs showing football most
of the day and a wide range of pub food from English fry
ups to steaks with prices betting the bars location.QA-1,
Damrak 35 - 36, tel. (+31) 204 21 84 11. ABX
WHISKY BARS
WHISKYCAF L&B
Look up at the nearly unending choices of whisky on oer
on the blackboard, take a deep breath and nd your favou-
rite scotch. The aptly named Whiskycaf has over 1500 dif-
ferent single malts, bourbons and sour mashes from around
the world including famous highland spirits as well as drinks
from obscure Japanese distilleries. Squeeze in around the
central bar and ponder the possibilities, but dont worry. You
wont get dirty looks from the sta if you order one of its
excellent beers or wines.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat
82 - 84, tel. (+31) 624 55 41 62, www.whiskyproeverijen.
nl. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. A
WINE BARS
MULLINERS WIJNLOKAAL
The rst thing we noticed upon entering this wine bar,
apart from the rened atmosphere, the polished wooden
bar and the green leather benches that put one in mind
of an English gentlemans club, was the smell of garlic. Es-
cargot was being prepared along with a myriad of other
delicious tapas, but Mulliners main focus is of course wine
in all its lovely incarnations. Order a bottle or a glass from
the months specials on the blackboard and relax in this
candlelit room to the soothing sounds of classical music.
QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 266/267, tel. (+31) 206 27 97
82, www.mulliners-wijnlokaal.nl. Open 17:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon. A
Drop anchor at a local cocktail bar
24 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Centrum
SIGHTSEEING
From historic canal houses and royal palaces to world-class
museums, Amsterdams city centre has it all.
ESSENTIAL CENTRUM
THE OLD CHURCH (DE OUDE KERK)
Although no one knows for certain, its believed that Am-
sterdams oldest stone building, the Oude Kerk, was erected
at the end of the 13th or possibly the beginning of the 14th
century. The important edice wasnt only used for religious
purposes and often served as a safe for precious docu-
ments, a treasury and also a homeless shelter. It was also
the place where couples had to register their intentions to
marry as Rembrandt and his bride Saskia did in 1638. Shes
buried on the far end of the building opposite the entrance.
The historic monument and its wooden ceiling were on
the verge of collapse in the 20th century and it was nally
closed in 1951 for lengthy restoration. In 1979 it was again
opened to the public and is now one of the citys most visit-
ed attractions.QB-1, Oudekerksplein 23, tel. (+31) 206 25
82 84, www.oudekerk.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00
- 17:00. Admission: adults 5, children 12 and under free.
CANAL TOURS
AMSTERDAM CANAL CRUISES
This company has been giving tours of the Amster-
dam canals for over 40 years. Its six boats depart from
the landing opposite the Heineken Experience..QG-8,
Stadhouderskade 550, tel. (+31) 206 26 56 36, www.
amsterdamcanalcruises.nl.
BLUE BOAT COMPANY
Exploring the UNESCO protected canals is often the high-
light of any trip to Amsterdam so why not take in the citys
best sights in a 75-minute canal boat tour for only 15?
You can also take a 90-minute evening cruise (17.50)
and enjoy the view with a drink in your hand or spoil your
signicant other with a luxurious 2.5-hour dinner cruise
(67.50). Visit its website for exact departure times and lo-
cations.QF-9, Stadhouderskade 30, tel. (+31) 206 79 13
70, www.blueboat.nl. (7 - 15). A
CENTRUM ATTRACTIONS
VENUS TEMPLE SEX MUSEUM
If, like most visitors, you arrived at the Central Station and
walked down the crowded Damrak you no doubt noticed
the Venus Temple, which is a bit tacky but also a classic Am-
sterdam attraction on four oors and a bargain at only 4.
You can take a look at ancient erotic woodcarvings from In-
dian temples, scrimshaw dildos and 18th-century silk paint-
ings of sexual acts from China and Japan. Youll also see
mannequins of ashers and prostitutes, old porno lms and
some provocative black and white photographs, including
a 100-year-old image of a woman with a gas mask, strap-on
and whip that proves that the human race has always been
perverted.QA-1, Damrak 18, tel. (+31) 206 22 83 76, www.
sexmuseumamsterdam.nl. Open 09:30 - 23:30. Admis-
sion: 4; entrance from16 years of age.
CHURCHES
NOORDERKERK
As the population of the new Jordaan neighbourhood
began to explode in the 17th century, the city decided to
build a new church for its lower class protestant residents.
Hendrick de Keyser, the illustrious designer of the nearby
Westerkerk, was tasked to create the building and it was -
nally completed in1623 in all its odd octagonal glory. Inside
the black gravestones that pave the oor have been pol-
ished smooth by centuries of foot trac from its devoted
parishioners.QE-4, Noordermarkt 48, tel. (+31) 206 26 64
36, www.noorderkerk.org. Open Mon 10:30 - 12:30, Sat
11:00 - 13:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30. Closed Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri.
THE PARROT: CHURCH OF STS. PETER AND
PAUL (DE PAPEGAAI)
In stark contrast to the non-stop racket heard from shop-
pers outside on the tireless Kalverstraat, this hidden church
is a small oasis of peace and quiet. Its clandestine appear-
ance is intentional as it was one of several underground
Catholic churches that had to conceal their existence from
Protestant persecution, hence its code name the Parrot.
Just look for the tile mosaic to nd the entrance.QA-3,
Kalverstraat 58, tel. (+31) 206 23 18 89, www.nicolaas-
parochie.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:45 - 13:30.
WESTERKERK
One of the symbols of Amsterdam, the Westerkerk was
consecrated in 1631 as a Dutch Reformed church and it
still tends to its Protestant ock to this day. Its Dutch Re-
naissance style is unmistakable and its massive tower em-
bellished with the crown of Austrian Emperor Maximilian
soars to a height of 85m above the city. The impoverished
painter Rembrandt was buried here in 1669, but no one
is quite sure exactly where, yet a plaque marks the ap-
proximate spot not far from his son Titus grave. The tower
bell is the largest in the Netherlands and weighs in at an
impressive 7,500kg. The Westermarkt square outside is a
popular meeting place.QE-5, Prinsengracht 281, www.
westerkerk.nl. Open 11:00 - 15:00. Tower admission: 6.
A canal boat tour is a good way to see the city
Summer 2014 25 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Centrum
MUSEUMS
ANNE FRANK HOUSE (ANNE FRANK HUIS)
There are very few people who arent acquainted with the
tragic story of Anne Frank a brave girl who dreamed of
becoming an author while in hiding from Nazi persecu-
tion. The diary of her time spent in the secret annex was
published in 1947 and later translated in over 65 languages.
The popularity of her work is reected in the huge queues
outside this museum that has been teaching Amsterdams
visitors about the Holocaust, the story of the Frank family
and their desperate struggle to survive and the evils of anti-
Semitism and racism since 1960.QE-5, Prinsengracht 263
- 267, tel. (+31) 205 56 71 05, www.annefrank.org. Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults 9,
children 10 - 17 years 4.50, children under 10 free. A
HET GRACHTENHUIS
This museum is dedicated to the evolution of Amsterdams
famous canal belt and the houses that sprung up along
them. Although the city oers other Golden Age muse-
ums that display renovated or reconstructed 17th-century
interiors, Het Grachtenhuis focuses on the development
of the city during its most prosperous era with a variety
of modern multimedia experiences and lms on the top
oors of the building, while still showing o its antique
grandeur of marble foyers, period furniture and paintings
by illustrious Dutch artists.QF-7, Herengracht 386, www.
hetgrachtenhuis.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission: adults 12, children 6 - 18 years 6. A
HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM (HET WOONBOOTMUSEUM)
The owner of this converted freighter that dates back to
1914 knows a thing or two about houseboats as he lived
onboard for 22 years before moving ashore with the rest of
the landlubbers in Amsterdam. He now runs this museum
which receives over 38,000 visitors each year who are cu-
rious to see how people can use a boat as a permanent
residence. View pictures and scale models and discover
interesting facts about the waterways of the city such as
the average depth on an Amsterdam canal (its 2.8m).QE-
6, Prinsengracht 296K, tel. (+31) 204 27 07 50, www.
houseboatmuseum.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission: adults 3.75, children 3.
MUSEUM OF BAGS AND PURSES
What began as Hendrikje Ivos obsession with purses blos-
somed into the worlds largest collection of handbags and
purses with over 4,000 exhibits spanning 500 years. Locat-
ed in a prestigious 17th-century home that once belonged
to the then mayor of Amsterdam, the museum begins on
the top oor where you can view satchels, boxes and let-
ter cases from the 16th - 19th centuries made from every
material imaginable including ivory, tortoiseshell, leather,
lace, silk, straw and wood. 20th-century exhibits include
funky Art Deco purses as well as bags made from exotic
animals like ostriches, crocodiles and, yes, even armadillos.
QH-7, Herengracht 573, tel. (+31) 205 24 64 52, www.
museumofbagsandpurses.com. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adults 9,50, children under 12 free. AK
26 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Centrum
ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM (KONINKLIJK
PALEIS AMSTERDAM)
Its hard to miss the Royal Palace on Dam Square. When the
building was rst opened to the public as the Town Hall in
1655, its lavish interior decorated with paintings by Ferdi-
nand Bol and Rembrandt was considered to be the eighth
wonder of the world. Louis Napoleon made it his personal
residence in 1808 when he briey served as the King of
Holland, but it later became the possession of the House
of Orange. After meandering through a few dull corridors
youll nally walk upstairs to the main hall where your jaw
is guaranteed to drop. Seldom have we seen so much pol-
ished marble in one place, not to mention six giant crys-
tal chandeliers hanging from the timber ceiling covered
in frescos high above the inlaid maps and nautical and
astronomical charts in the oor. The audio guide, which
is included in the price, is essential as none of the rooms
have explanations in any language. A short movie with
English subtitles is available before you take the tour.QA-
2, Dam, tel. (+31) 206 20 40 60, www.paleisamsterdam.
nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 10, children
under 18 free.
THE HASH, MARIHUANA & HEMP MUSEUM
Apart from the pleasant eects that it can have on your
mood and state of mind, cannabis has a thousand uses
you probably never heard of. During Hollands Golden
Age, Dutch East India Company ships made their ropes
and sails from hemp, while today hemp bre is still one
of the most durable and easy to use materials available for
making clothing. The Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum
displays the history of industrial hemp in its gallery, while
its main collection consists of items related to the history
of cannabis, the culture that surrounds it and its medici-
nal benets. Ancient hash pipes, 17th-century paintings
of medieval Dutchmen getting high, cinema posters of
Cheech and Chong, a guitar made of hemp and hundreds
of other unusual items make this a fascinating place to
visit. A small shop selling gifts and cannabis seeds is also
attached to the museum.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburg-
wal 148, tel. (+31) 206 24 89 26, www.hashmuseum.
com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Admission: adults 9, children
under 13 free.
VAN LOON MUSEUM (MUSEUM VAN LOON)
This magnicent building owned by the Van Loon family
trust has a rich and storied history and is one of the few re-
maining examples of authentic Dutch golden age homes
in Amsterdam. It was rented by renowned Rembrandt ap-
prentice Ferdinand Bol soon after its construction in 1671
but passed on to dierent owners over the centuries until
it was purchased in 1884 by the Van Loon family whose
most illustrious ancestor Willem van Loon co-founded the
Dutch East India Company. Although the family was one of
the citys wealthiest, they cultivated a tradition of opening
up their home to show o its splendour and this tradition
has survived to this day. View 17th-century portraits, pe-
riod furniture, 18th-century Dutch porcelain, spectacular
wall murals, a centuries-old working kitchen and a spa-
cious manicured garden all in the centre of Amsterdam.
QG-7, Keizersgracht 672, tel. (+31) 206 24 52 55, www.
museumvanloon.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.
Admission: 7.
PLACES OF INTEREST
BREWERS CANAL (BROUWERSGRACHT)
Although Amsterdam has no shortage of picturesque ca-
nals, this beautiful waterway is one of the citys prettiest
and in our opinion outshines other scenic stretches such
as the Golden Bend. The Brewers Canal began its exis-
tence in the 17th century but earned its name hundreds
of years later when many beer brewers chose to set up
shop on the canal. Unlike the busy canals in the centre, the
atmosphere here is laid back and relaxed. Most of the tiny
little houses along the way have brightly painted shutters
and the canal is covered in small bridges.QF-8, Between
the Singel and Lijnbaansgracht.
EASTERN ISLANDS (OOSTELIJKE EILANDEN)
Theres one thing at which the Dutch truly excel: turning
water into land. Large parts of the Eastern Islands (Katten-
burg, Wittenburg and Oostenburg) were reclaimed from
the River IJ in the 19th century and the Dutch East India
Company also had its headquarters here. Impressive build-
ings like the Maritime Museum stand alongside charming
homes, but bear in mind that the neighbourhood may be
pretty, but theres not much else to do here apart from ad-
miring the scenery.QI/J-4, Oostelijke Eilanden.
FLOWER MARKET (BLOEMENMARKT)
The Flower Market is a tourist attraction and a function-
ing market in one. Although its often called the worlds
only oating ower market, most of the browsing takes
place on dry land as the stalls are located on barges
moored on the Singel. The sellers will also send bulbs
to your home address abroad and they know which
countries dont allow the importation of plant materials,
so you dont have to worry about having your purchase
conscated at customs. Locals also buy owers here so
the prices are actually quite reasonable.QA/B-3, Singel
(Between Koningsplein and Muntplein). Open 09:00 -
17:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:30. A
Lots of bulbs for sale at the Flower Market
Summer 2014 27 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Centrum
GOLDEN BEND (GOUDEN BOCHT)
This stretch of the Herengracht is famous for its grand
manor houses that came into existence when Amster-
dams ber-wealthy built their dream homes here during
the Dutch Golden Age in the 17th century. Although it g-
ures prominently in city guides of all stripes, the buildings
are actually on the boring side and lack the narrow dimen-
sions and cosiness that most people associate with the
capitals architecture. Youll probably walk by on your way
to lots of local museums anyway, but otherwise you can
give it a pass unless you need to hire one of the prominent
law rms that have their oces here.QB-3, Herengracht
between Leidsestraat and Vijzelstraat.
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
FAST FLYING FERRY
The nearby town of Velsen-Zuid can be easily reached
within 30 minutes by the Fast Flying Ferry that travels at
65km/hour.QF-4, De Ruyterkade, tel. (+31) 900 92 92,
www.water.connexxion.nl. Tickets: one way 5.15, re-
turn 9.70; bike tickets 3.10.
KAROS CITYTOURS
Want to impress your loved one with a romantic ride? The
coachmen in front of the Royal Palace on Dam Square will
take you on a horse-drawn tour of the city from the com-
fort of a nostalgic carriage.QA-2, Veemarkt 50, tel. (+31)
206 91 34 78, www.karos.nl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Prices
from 35 (4 persons, 20 minutes).
MIKES BIKE TOURS
Two daily tours show you the hidden gems of the inner
city (16:00) or the enchanting surroundings of the Dutch
countryside (11:00). Dont expect boring guides who try
to pass the time by spouting dry facts. The entertaining
sta attempt to make the experience as fun as possible.
QF-7, Kerkstraat 134, tel. (+31) 206 22 79 70, www.
mikesbiketoursamsterdam.com. (15 - 22). JA
STATUES & MONUMENTS
NATIONAL MONUMENT
Its hard to miss the central monument on Dam Square
thats often occupied by people of all ages and nationali-
ties sunning themselves, reading books or just relaxing. The
brainchild of renowned Dutch architect J.J.P. Oud (1890
- 1963), the National Monument made of white travertine
was unveiled in 1956 as both a memorial to all Dutch men
and women who suered under the Nazi occupation of
the Netherlands and to the nations liberation. A number of
statues and reliefs symbolise the resistance expressed by all
members of society from labourers to the intelligentsia and
the lions on either side represent the Dutch nation. The gi-
ant pillar rises to a height of 22m.QA-2, Dam.
REMBRANDT STATUE
Rembrandt van Rijn (1606 - 1669) is considered to be one
of the greatest painters in Dutch history and King William III
had the honour of unveiling Amsterdams oldest statue in
1852. But thats not the end of the story. Over the next de-
cade at least 10 more statues will be erected along the route
that the illustrious painter used to walk from his house in
Amsterdam to to the outskirts of the city where he searched
for inspiration. Each statue will represent a certain period of
his life. A young Rembrandt, opposite the Amstel Hotel, is
the rst of these new statues. Statues of Rembrandt can also
be found at molen at Amstel at the end of Amstelpark and
Professor Tulpplein.QB-3, Rembrandtplein.
THE LITTLE DARLING (HET LIEVERDJE)
At the centre of the Spui, a small square surrounded by
some excellent beer bars and bookshops, is a stylised
brass statue of a boy with a naughty smile that hints that
hes up to no good. The Little Darling, Dear or Sweetheart
is the Dutch version of Dennis the Menace, Calvin (of Cal-
vin and Hobbes), Max and Moritz and countless other
ctional depictions of mischievous boys popular in all cul-
tures. Erected on the Square in 1960 with funds provided
by a tobacco company, the statue became a rallying point
for the Provos, a counter-culture movement that protested
against pretty much all of the successes and failures of the
1950s.QSpui.
Hanging around near the National Monument M.Zaprauskis
BREWERY TOURS
BROUWERIJ DE PRAEL
You can take a tour of the small premises in the Red
Light district and learn about the brewing process fol-
lowed by a beer in its new tasting room which has a
view of all the brewing action. The owners also con-
tribute to society by employing people who have a
tough time nding work elsewhere and you can see
them hard at work in the cellar where one lls the
bottles, another puts the cap on and a third person
attaches the labels. The brewery makes about eight
dierent beers and you can buy all kinds of De Prael
merchandise in its shop or taste them at their stylish
bar and restaurant.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 30,
tel. (+31) 204 08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. Open 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
28 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Centrum
PLANTAGE SIGHTSEEING
The Plantage has an incredible concentration of muse-
ums, historical monuments, cutting-edge architecture and
beautiful parkland all in one neighbourhood.
ARTIS ROYAL ZOO
Founded in 1838, the Artis Royal Zoo is the oldest zoo in
the Netherlands and home to roughly 700 species of fauna
and 200 species of ora. The sprawling park not only oers
a huge collection of exotic animals from near and far, but
also an impressive aquarium as well as a zoology museum.
Many of the strange beasts that inhabit the zoo live out-
doors so you can see camels lounging in the sand or Japa-
nese macaques jumping about. Walk past lions, elephants,
bualo and giraes in their enclosures or head over to the
top-notch reptile house to see pythons, giant tortoises and
crocodiles or all manner of creepy-crawlies in the Insect
House. You can also view nocturnal creatures in the Jungle
by Night exhibit, chimpanzees in the monkey house and
strange forms of life from the planets oceans in the aquari-
um.QI-5, Plantage Kerklaan 38 - 40, tel. (+31) 90 02 78 47
96, www.artis.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission: adults
18.95, children 3 - 9 years 15.50. AK
HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM
Russias most illustrious museum has a subsidiary in Am-
sterdam, which is housed in a beautiful 17th classical-style
building called the Amstelhof that was once a home for
poverty-stricken elderly women. Since 2009, the build-
ing has hosted periodic themed exhibitions that display
some of the Hermitages most prized possessions from
stunningly preserved artefacts of the ancient world to
masterpieces of European art. Permanent exhibits dedi-
cated to the Amstelhof and the origins of the Hermitage
Museum and the Russian royal family are also available.
The Hermitage is currently hosting an exhibition entitled
Expedition Silk Road that will be on display until September
5, 2014.QH-6, Amstel 51, tel. (+31) 205 30 74 88, www.
hermitage.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults
15, children 17 and under free. AU
HORTUS BOTANICAL GARDENS
Located in the quiet neighbourhood of the Plantage, the
Hortus Botanical Garden has been fascinating naturalists,
botanists and fans of beauty for over 300 years making it
one of the oldest such gardens in the world. Although only a
little over one hectare in size, Hortus boasts over 4,000 spe-
cies of plants from around the globe throughout its gardens
and greenhouses. It specialises in cycads, or palm trees, the
oldest of which was brought to the Netherlands on a V.O.C.
ship centuries ago and has had a home at Hortus since 1856.
You can wander around the grounds and view beautiful
owers, carnivorous orae and even a redwood tree. You
can also walk through the tropical and desert greenhouses,
but dont miss the buttery house. .QH-5, Plantage Mid-
denlaan 2a, tel. (+31) 206 25 90 21, www.dehortus.nl.
Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 8.50, children 5
- 14 years 4.50, children 4 and under free. HEK
NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM AMSTERDAM
(NEDERLANDS SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM AM-
STERDAM)
In the 17th century the Netherlands was one of the
wealthiest and most important nations in the world
and this was in large part due to its maritime prowess.
No other country in the world had as many ships sailing
the seas of the globe as Holland. After thorough renova-
tions, the Maritime Museum once again demonstrates
how the sea has dened Dutch culture. Stimulating, in-
teractive exhibits bring 500 years of maritime history to
life. The signicance of this industry in the modern age
is also explained in a clear and concise manner. Chil-
dren will also love the museum, especially the replica of
the famous VOC (Dutch East India Company) ship.QI-4,
Kattenburgerplein 1, tel. (+31) 205 23 22 22, fax (+31)
205 23 22 13, info@hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl, www.
hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admis-
sion: 15, children 5 and over 7.50. TJAL
SCIENCE CENTER NEMO
Look for the big green building jutting out into the water
to nd this fun science centre that will make you wish
you were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter
and unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of
levels where visitors can learn about science without the
boring textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles,
generate electricity or lots of other hands on activities.
You can also see how fuel engines work or touch a real,
4.65 billion-year-old meteorite; discover why teenagers
look, feel and act the way they do; see how our daily lives
will change in the future with new and advanced tech-
nologies; and lots of other interesting stu. You can also
bring your own lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or buy
some food on the top oor terrace caf that oers a great
view of the city. A good museum shop is also available
where you can buy science experiments and other fun
souvenirs for kids. QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31
32 33, info@e-NEMO.nl, www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00
- 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission: 15, children under
four free. AK
View of Science Center NEMO DigiDaan
Summer 2014 29 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Centrum
THE REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM
This historic house was bought by one of the Netherlands
most illustrious native sons in 1639 for the impressive sum
of 13,000 guilders. An audio guide will take you through
the house, which is reconstructed to look exactly as it did
when Rembrandt was at the peak of his career. Sta also
demonstrate how etchings were mass-produced using
copper plates.QG/H-5, Jodenbreestraat 4, tel. (+31) 205
20 04 00, www.rembrandthuis.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adults 10, children 6 - 17 years 3, children
5 and under free. A
JEWISH CULTURAL QUARTER
JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM (JOODS HISTO-
RISCH MUSEUM)
This extensive museum dedicated to Amsterdam Jewish
life opened in 1987 and is spread out over what used to
be four dierent synagogues. Begin your journey in the
oldest building erected in 1671, which was abandoned for
nearly 30 years after WWII until it was nally restored to its
former glory. This section of the museum chronicles the
earliest years of Jewish settlement in Amsterdam and you
can view an impressive array of religious items, holy texts
and ancient books as well as a giant silver menorah nearly
2m tall! .QH-6, Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1, tel. (+31) 205
31 03 10, www.jhm.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission:
adults 12, children 13 - 17 6, children 6 - 12 3, under
6 free. HAUKW
JHM CHILDRENS MUSEUM
A part of the Jewish Historical Museum, this museum on
three oors is designed to teach children about Judaism,
but from a childs perspective. Kids can visit a working
kitchen and learn about the kosher tradition and typical
Jewish cuisine or visit the Hollanders a ctional Amster-
dam Jewish family to see what their home life is like and
how it both diers from and resembles an average Dutch
familys day-to-day life.QH-6, Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1,
tel. (+31) 205 31 03 10, www.jhmkindermuseum.nl.
Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 12, children 13 -
17 6, children 6 - 12 3, under 6 free. TAUKW
PORTUGUESE SYNAGOGUE
As medieval Amsterdam prospered, its population grew
by leaps and bounds and among its many new arrivals
were Jews from around the continent looking for a bet-
ter life. They completed work on this synagogue in 1675
and since then it has served as a centre for Jewish life in
Amsterdam housing also offices, archives, ritual baths
and a rabbinate. The synagogue was completely re-
stored in 2011 and now its treasure rooms which house
unique ceremonial objects are open to the public as
well as Ets Haim, the oldest functioning Jewish library
in the world dating to 1616. QH-5, Mr. Visserplein 3,
tel. (+31) 205 31 03 10, www.portugesesynagoge.
nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.
Admission: adults 12, children 13 - 17 6, children
6 - 12 3, under 6 free. HAU
30 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Centrum
SHOPPING
You can shop for the big brands on the pedestrian Kalver-
straat, try the boutiques in the Jordaan or nd something
exotic in Chinatown around the Nieuwmarkt.
ANTIQUES & ART
ANTIQUARIAN HOOGKAMP
An excellent selection of antique prints, maps, cityscapes
and botanicals from the 16th - 20th centuries.QG-8, Spie-
gelgracht 27, tel. (+31) 206 25 88 52, www.prenten.net.
Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
ARONSON ANTIQUAIRS
Generations of the Aronson family have been selling
Dutch delftware and Chinese ceramics since 1881.QG-8,
Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 23 31 03, www.
aronson.com.
BOOKS
THE AMERICAN BOOK CENTER
Book lovers could spend days in this temple to English-
language literature. Skip the coee table books and maga-
zines on the ground oor and climb up to the next two
oors for novels, travel, history, sci-, fantasy, political sci-
ence and even manga.QA-3, Spui 12, tel. (+31) 206 25 55
37, www.abc.nl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 11:00 - 20:00,
Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. A
WATERSTONES
An outstanding selection of English language literature
including books on travel, history and politics not to men-
tion contemporary ction, classic novels, magazines and
newspapers on four oors.QA-3, Kalverstraat 152, tel.
(+31) 206 38 38 21, www.waterstones.nl. Open 09:30 -
18:30, Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 10:00
- 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
CHEESE
DE KAASKAMER VAN AMSTERDAM
The aroma of aged cheese can be overwhelming to the
uninitiated but fromage lovers will want to spend hours
here. In addition to hundreds of cheeses you can also
buy imported salamis, sausages and other meats as
well as wine.QE-6, Runstraat 7, tel. (+31) 206 23 34 83,
kaaskamer.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00,
Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
DELICATESSENS
EICHHOLTZ
This delicatessen has been in operation since 1888, but
now it specialises in food products from the US and UK
for homesick Americans and Brits. Buy anything from Fruit
Loops and A&W root beer to eggnog and Aunt Jemima
syrup for inated prices.QF-7, Leidsestraat 48, tel. (+31)
206 22 03 05. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
12:00 - 18:00.
MARKETS
NOORDERMARKT (BOERENMARKT)
Every Saturday this market in the Jordaan district positively
teems with life. Located on a lovely square in the shadow
of the unusual octagonal Norderkerk (North Church), you
can browse through stalls selling cheese, vintage clothing,
sausages, fresh produce, antiques and lots of other food
and fashion. If youre into seafood dont miss the oyster
stall where the friendly purveyor will prepare the tasty del-
icacies on the half shell to be consumed right on the spot.
QE-4, Noordermarkt, www.boerenmarktamsterdam.
nl. Open , Sat 09:00 - 16:00.
MUSIC SHOPS
CONCERTO
Possibly the citys, and perhaps the nations largest col-
lection of new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl spread
out across ve buildings: one for classical, another for
world music and jazz, one for pop/rock, one dedicated
to dance music and yet another to vinyl and used CDs.
Amazing!QH-7, Utrechtsestraat 52 - 60, tel. (+31) 206 23
52 28, www.concertomania.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. A
SECOND LIFE MUSIC
This second-hand music shop oers an eclectic collection
of music from punk rock to Spanish amenco and every-
thing in between. Most of the music is on vinyl, but it also
has a decent selection of CDs.QE-7, Prinsengracht 366,
tel. (+31) 206 20 52 00, www.secondlifemusic.nl. Open
13:00 - 18:00.
SPORTS & OUTDOORS
FJLLRVEN BRAND CENTER
This popular Swedish brand, which means arctic fox,
specialises in all kinds of outdoor gear from its signature
backpacks and camping essentials like tents to clothing,
hiking boots and all the apparel youll need to spend time
in nature. Its large brand centre in Amsterdam is conve-
niently located on the Rozengracht.QD-7, Rozengracht
219 - 225, tel. (+31) 204 28 17 60, www.fallravencenter.
nl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 -
20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JA
Amsterdams shops have something for everyone
Centrum Map
Centrum Map
34 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Nieuw-West
In the aftermath of WWII Amsterdam was in desperate
need of new housing. By 1951 work began on the garden
suburb of Tuinstad Slotermeer, the rst of ve new neigh-
bourhoods that were added to the west end of the city. To-
day, Slotermeer, Geuzenveld, Slotervaart, Overtoomse Veld
and Osdorp comprise the urban district of Nieuw-West. A
spacious design with plenty of greenery is characteristic of
these new neighbourhoods, which all surround the peace-
ful waters of the Sloterplas lake.
ARRIVING IN NIEUW-WEST
Nieuw-Wests main train station is Amsterdam Lelylaan,
which has great connections with Central Station and
Schiphol. The green metro line 50 is probably the easiest
way to get to Nieuw-West from the railway stations at
Zuid and RAI. Along the way it passes six metro stations
in Nieuw-West. Many trams also travel to Nieuw-West in-
cluding No.13 (Geuzenveld), Nos.7 and 14 (Slotermeer),
No.17 (Osdorp Dijkgraafplein), No.1 (Osdorp de Aker) and
No.2 (Nieuw Sloten). All, with the exception of Nos.7 and 14
(Dam), depart from Central Station.
ACCOMMODATION
BEST WESTERN BLUE SQUARE HOTEL
Although Best Westerns have a reputation for offer-
ing fairly standard, affordable accommodation, Blue
Square has separated itself from the pack by focusing
on modern ways to minimise its carbon footprint in-
cluding the use of solar panels and other green, energy
saving measures. This has earned them the right to call
themselves a Green Key hotel a prestigious title for
environmentally sound accommodation. 175 singles,
doubles, triples and quads are available with flat screen
TVs, free wireless internet access, safe, coffee/tea sets,
air conditioning and private bathrooms. Some also have
views of the Erasmus Canal. .QN-2, Slotermeerlaan 80,
tel. (+31) 205 06 37 17, www.bluesquarehotel.nl.
175 rooms (singles, doubles, triples and quads from
109). PALGKW hhhh
WESTCORD FASHION HOTEL AMSTERDAM
Located at the south end of the Rembrandt Park, this
four-star design hotel has plenty to oer the discern-
ing traveller who demands more than just a place to lay
his head. All rooms are stylish, yet playful and even cosy
unlike similar establishments that rely on minimalism to
be trendy. Naturally, the usual amenities are available in-
cluding at screen TV, climate control, mini-bar, phone,
coee/tea set, private bathroom and free wi-. And a
design hotel wouldnt be complete without a hot cock-
tail bar so head to the 10th oor to have a drink with the
beautiful people at the Skyy Bar. A large wellness centre
with a swimming pool and steam rooms is also at your
disposal.QN-3, Hendrikje Stofelstraat 1, tel. (+31) 208
10 08 00, www.westcordhotels.nl. 260 rooms (twin and
doubles from 119, triples from 179, suites from 385).
PHAUFLGBKDCwW hhhh
FOOD & DRINK
CAF RESTAURANT KERKZICHT
Sloten locals love Kerkzichts attractive terrace that lies
directly opposite St. Pancras Church, and with good rea-
son. Its a great place for an afternoon drink and once you
get hungry a selection of delicious meals including some
regional specialities is available. If youd like to sample
one of North Hollands most renowned meals, ask for the
Texels lamb. You cant go wrong with the beef tenderloin
either. It isnt hard to notice that the restaurant has been a
brown bar in a previous incarnation, as the interior is still
quite old-fashioned. Its setting in a cosy old village house
is also appealing.QM-4, Sloterweg 1209, tel. (+31) 206
15 39 04, www.caferestaurantkerkzicht.nl. Open 15:30 -
23:00. (18 - 20). GBKX
COCOS KEUKEN
Just good food in the neighbourhood is Cocos slogan. It
has to be said that this is quite a modest motto when you
consider that the food in this local restaurant is close to
perfection. With pure, healthy and fresh ingredients the
cooks create basic dishes with a creative are and all of
these are served by friendly sta in plain, yet cheerful sur-
roundings. Rumour has it that chef Youssef is your man if
you want something thats not on the menu.QN-3, Saskia
van Uijlenburgkade 170, tel. (+31) 207 67 03 87, www.
cocoskeuken.nl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Also at N-2, Gerrie
Knetemannlaan 170; N-3/4, Ottho Heldringstraat 13 d.
(10 - 14). T6UVENGBKSW
SKYY BAR
On clear days you can see the sea from here but on most
evenings the trendy Skyy Bar (their spelling) is a popular
haven for stargazers looking for celebrities here on earth.
The immediate surroundings of this hotel bar are pure
paradise for anyone who wants to catch a glimpse of the
fashion world. Whatever your reason for coming here its
a good place to visit even if you just want to have a look
at the beautiful girls in sexy outts while sipping a cock-
tail or some champagne. We recommend the surprisingly
aordable porn star martini, which is a tasty drink indeed.
QN-3, Hendrikje Stofelsstraat 1, tel. (+31) 208 10 08
00, www.skyybar.nl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 -
02:00. AULGKW
Cool o in the Nieuwe Meer on a hot summer day
Summer 2014 35 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Nieuw-West
SIGHTSEEING
Although Nieuw-West is a fairly new district of Amsterdam,
having only been created in the 1950s, it has more than its
fair share of sights and attractions. You can take your pick
of parks and gardens including the central Sloterpark and
its large lake or visit one of Amsterdams most impressive
windmills, which is open to the public every day. Nieuw-
West also has no shortage of modern architecture.
BROUWERIJ DE 7 DEUGDEN
Amsterdams latest addition to the beer brewing industry
is brouwerij De 7 Deugden (The 7 Virtues), which is tucked
away on the outskirts of New West. Although all of the ma-
chinery and equipment doesnt occupy more space than a
large garage, the beer is simply wonderful. Owner Garmt is
one of those guys who could no longer resist the tempting
call from his inner self and wed just like to personally thank
the beer gods for this fortuitous wake-up call. His contribu-
tion to a happier life for Amsterdammers is a selection of six
beers, all of which have a unique taste. The seventh brew,
which makes the name of this brewery sound more logical,
is a seasonal beer. This is largely reliant on the time of the
year, Garmts mood or whatever else inuences his creative
mind and palate. If youd like to take a tour of the place
you have to call ahead and arrive in a group of at least four
people. For 5/person you can taste all six regular brews
served with three types of cheeses. You cant go wrong
with that!QL-2, Osdorperweg 578 achter, tel. (+31) 651 64
81 15, www.de7deugden.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Mon, Fri
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ULNS
LAKE SLOTERPLAS (SLOTERPLAS)
The history of the Sloterplas goes back centuries. In 1644,
the Slootermeer, a shallow peat lake, was reclaimed with the
help of windmills. Over 300 years later the reclaimed land
was dug up and once again turned into a lake as part of the
1935 General Expansion Plan for the area. The excavation
was necessary to raise the surrounding area so new housing
estates like Slotermeer, Geuzenveld, Slotervaart and Osdorp
could be built. It also made it possible to create a large park
and recreation area in the middle of the new neighbour-
hoods. The fertile top soil of peat and clay was used to raise
the area around the lake. The Sloterplas is a popular body
of water, especially on the southeastern side, for sailing, ca-
noeing, shing and diving.QM-3, Sloterplas.
OEVERLOOS FERRY (VEERPONT OEVERLOOS)
If you cant swim 800 metres, or you dont want to, you
can safely cross the Nieuwe Meer by boat between April
and September. This seasonal ferry has been running since
1990 and thousands of people use it every year. The Am-
sterdam Forest, with all its bars and restaurants, tourist at-
tractions and natural beauty, is now a lot more accessible
for the residents of Nieuw-West due to this nostalgic ferry
crossing.QM-4, Anton Schleperspad 10, www.rederij-
oeverloos.nl. Open Sat 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00
from April 15 - October 15. Admission: adults 1, chil-
dren 0.50, bicycles 0.50. T
REMBRANDT PARK (REMBRANDTPARK)
One of Hollands most famous painters, Rembrandt van
Rijn, had a park named after him centuries after his death.
This spacious green space is located at the border be-
tween the old city and the estates of the 1950s and 1960s.
The park is cut in half by the Postjesweg and the many
lakes and open elds that surround it create a relaxed and
peaceful atmosphere. A great variety of sculpture, a zoo
and the best kids playground in Amsterdam are just some
of the attractions of this central urban oasis.QN-3, Ortel-
iuskade, www.rembrandtpark.org.
SLOTEN WINDMILL (MOLEN VAN SLOTEN)
Nearly 100 years ago, the Netherlands boasted over 10,000
windmills. This invention, which was originally Japanese, is
now internationally associated with Holland. Unfortunate-
ly, less than 1,000 are left, but several are still located on
the outskirts of Amsterdam and the surrounding region.
One of the most beautiful ones, Molen van Sloten, is locat-
ed at a picturesque spot on the edge of Nieuw-West. This
type of windmill, called a Stellingmolen, was used to keep
the water level low in the neighbouring areas. Its also the
only windmill in Amsterdam which is open every day and
even the disabled can take a tour of this beautiful build-
ing from 1846 by taking the lift to the upper oors. Many
couples have also been married at this Amsterdam land-
mark.QM-4, Akersluis 10, tel. (+31) 206 69 04 12, www.
molenvansloten.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. T
SLOTER PARK SWIMMING POOL (SLOTERPARK-
BAD)
Since it opened in 2001, the Sloter Park Swimming Pool
has been considered to be one of the best and biggest
swimming centres in the Netherlands. Its located at the
western edge of the Sloterplas and it also hosts two ex-
cellent festivals: Loveland in August and West Beach Film
Festival in September. Take tram No.7 or 14 from the city
centre to the pool.QM-2, President Allendelaan 3, tel.
(+31) 205 06 35 06, www.sloterparkbad.nl. Admission:
4.40. Opening hours vary so check its website for ex-
act schedules. TLNBKC
Enjoy some peace and quiet by the water in Nieuw-West
36 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Noord
SYMBOL KEY
A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning
O Casino T Child-friendly
U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace
V Home delivery E Live music
B Outside seating X Smoking section
S Takeaway W Wi
For centuries the north section of the city was an area that
most Amsterdammers weren't too keen on. It seems that
everything unwanted was 'dumped' here, from the gallows
in medieval times to the polluting ship building industry
much later. Extensive social housing projects attracted large
numbers of nancially challenged people exacerbating the
stigma that was already attached to Amsterdam's largest
administrative district. Today Noord, or simply North, is one
of the most vibrant areas of the Dutch capital. More and
more people have begun to appreciate the unique merits
of this territory beyond the River IJ. With this in mind we've
put together a small guide to this interesting urban and ru-
ral zone that's usually overlooked by most tourists. All you
need to do is to take one of the free ferries behind the Cen-
tral Station and 10 minutes later you'll be able to explore
Noord and its surroundings. Take a small river cruise on a
boat that oers an all-you-can-eat pancake buet, do some
cycling in the pristine countryside, bring a towel and swim
trunks and take a dip at one of the area's swimming pools
or visit a festival and see why Noord has become the siz-
zling new hub of Amsterdam's creative community. There
are three dierent ferries that will take you over the River IJ
in just a few minutes and bring you to Amsterdam-Noord
completely free of charge. The departure landing is located
just behind the Central Station.
ACCOMMODATION
From botels and cosy B&Bs to camping and luxury hotels,
the north side of the River IJ has plenty to oer.
UPMARKET
NH GALAXY AMSTERDAM
The NH Galaxy Hotel is true to its name, because the
worlds at your feet in this four-star hotel. The breakfast buf-
fet is well stocked and the spacious rooms not only have
cutting-edge interior design, but are also tted with king-
sized beds and luxurious bathrooms. The friendly sta and
its private parking also add extra value to this design hotel
and thanks to the shuttle bus, which is free of charge, the
centre of Amsterdam is only a short ride away. .QM-2, Dis-
telkade 21, tel. (+31) 206 34 43 66, www.nh-hotels.com.
PHAUFLBKXwW hhhh
THE FARALDA NDSM CRANE HOTEL AMSTERDAM
Crane 13 is a renowned industrial landmark and during
its heyday the 300-tonne monument could lift up to 40
tonnes of materials. However, after a complete restora-
tion it has a new function as a hotel and TV studio. The
rst of its three high-end design suites hovers at a height
of 13 metres, but a Jacuzzi oers incredible views of Am-
sterdams city centre from a height of 50m. Naturally, all
of this luxury comes at a premium, but believe it or not
youll have to add your name to a waiting list if youd like
to spend the night here.QM-2, NDSM-Plein 78, www.
faralda.nl. AULGW
MID-RANGE
BASTION DELUXE HOTEL AMSTERDAM / CEN-
TRUM - NOORD
Located next to the Volewijkspark and the Vliegenbos na-
ture area of Amsterdam Noord, youre never far from ora
and fauna when you stay at the Bastion Hotel. Standard
rooms live up to their modest name and include TV, safe,
private bathrooms and coee/tea sets, while deluxe rooms
oer a bit more space and have the added advantage of a
mini-bar. Although wi- is available throughout the hotel
for free, guests also have access to a computer in the lobby
if they dont have their own laptops. A restaurant, bar and
smoking lounge are at your disposal, not to mention free
parking a rarity in Amsterdam.QM-3, Rode Kruisstraat
28, tel. (+31) 206 32 31 31, www.bastionhotels.nl. 68
rooms (68 Total rooms ). ALGKXW hhh
BOTELS
AMSTEL BOTEL
This ship is safely moored at the NDSM pier. If you simply
need somewhere to crash after a night on the town and
youre looking for free parking, this is the place. Small cab-
ins with thin walls and claustrophobic bathrooms come
standard at this botel. The lack of luxury and privacy may
not be to everyones liking, but if you need relatively cheap
accommodation and you dont mind living on the water,
book a room at the back where you have a great view of
the River IJ. QM-2, NDSM-Pier 3, tel. (+31) 206 26 42 47,
www.amstelbotel.nl. 175 rooms (157 doubles 60 - 120,
18 triples 89 - 150). PTALGBKXW
The EYE Film Institute by night Iwan Baan
38 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Noord
BOUTIQUE HOTELS
BROOKLYN HOTEL
Opened in 2014, this wonderful design hotel is hard to miss
as it rises above the other structures on the NDSM wharf
that juts out from Amsterdam Noord far into the waters of
the River IJ. You can expect exceptional accommodation
decorated in neutral brown, beige and grey colours that
includes leather furniture, big beds, wireless internet access,
mini-bar and all of the other modern amenities no to men-
tion incredible views. We particularly liked the room where
you can shower and look out the oor-to-ceiling glass win-
dow.QM-2, NDSM-Plein 28, tel. (+31) 207 22 06 66, www.
brooklynhotel.nl. 88 rooms (standard doubles from 89,
deluxe rooms from 129). PALKW
BED & BREAKFAST
B&B HET OUDE DIJKHUIS
Located on one of Amsterdams most attractive cycling
routes, this spacious apartment can accommodate up to
four people. The furnishings are not exactly modern or cosy
and could best be described as old fashioned and boring.
On the other hand, the friendly owners and the more than
reasonable prices make up for the lack of dcor. The Old Dike
House even has a private entrance and a full sized kitchen. It
also rents bikesQN-3, Nieuwendammerdijk 443, tel. (+31)
204 94 18 42, www.hetoudedijkhuis.nl. 1 apartment (1
person 70, 4 persons 130). TLNGB
B&B HET ZUNDERDORPSKWARTIER
Het Zunderdorpskwartier is a new addition to the expand-
ing list of excellent B&Bs in rural Amsterdam. The hosts
have transformed a shed in the garden of their farmhouse
into an attractive guest room, which features a living room
with a well equipped kitchen and a separate bedroom. Al-
though a bit cramped, the house can be rented for up to
four guests and the attached garden makes it a good op-
tion for families with children. If its full you can try your luck
with the neighbours at B&B Biest-Stro.QM-4, t Nopeind
10b, tel. (+31) 623 74 05 60, www.zunderdorpskwartier.
nl. 1 rooms (70 - 75). iTLGBXW
CAMPING
CAMPING VLIEGENBOS
If youre tired of steep prices for accommodation in the city
centre, we suggest you take a 10-minute bus ride to Vlieg-
enbos, a 62-acre forest across the water from the Central
Station. You can pitch a tent, park your camper or rent
one of its cabins for a reasonable price during the spring
and summer months. A gift shop, restaurant, laundry and
other services are also available. During the day take bus
No.32 or 33 (06:00 - 24:00) or bus No.361 at night (24:00
- 06:00) from the Central Station to Vliegenbos. The camp-
site is only 200m from the bus stop.QN-3, Meeuwenlaan
138, tel. (+31) 206 36 88 55, www.vliegenbos.com. 30
cabins (4-person cabin 71 -74; tents 2 - 5; camper
sites 23 - 25). Open April - September. ALK
CAFS
Noord is very popular with Amsterdam hipsters, so it will
come as no surprise that the area has loads of great cafs.
BROOD NDSM
Three oors have been decorated with a mix of graphic
art, bright, splashy colours and an abundance of fresh
owers. The rooftop terrace oers great views of the IJ
and the Russian submarine thats moored right outside.
Downstairs at the counter youll encounter the addictive
aroma of freshly baked buns, pastries and bread and we
recommend the sandwiches slathered in typically sweet
Dutch llings like hagelslag and pindakaas.QN-2, Ms van
Riemsdijkweg 30, tel. (+31) 206 33 10 89, www.bbrood.
nl. Open 07:45 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 09:45 - 18:00. iT
JA6LGBKXSW
KOFFIEHUIS DE KLAPROOS (THE POPPY)
For over 50 years the De Klaproos coee house has been
serving food and drinks on the Klaprozenweg, one of the
busiest roads in Amsterdam-Noord. But for the past few
years this nostalgic living room-like pub, which you might
expect to nd in the middle of the Jordaan instead of next
to a public racetrack, has been run by Anita and Nancy.
The kitschy lights, bottles of Heineken and particularly
the loudspeakers that blast out the latest Dutch hits, cre-
ate a fun local atmosphere typical of Amsterdam. Hungry
guests can try the homemade meatball sandwich or the
steak Strogano served with bread.QM-2, Klaprozenweg
60, tel. (+31) 206 37 65 12. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun. 6LNBX
ONS VERLANGEN
Ons Verlangen (Our Desire) is a restful oasis far from the
noise and trac of the city. Theres a small army of ani-
mals at the farm which could almost rival the collection
of fauna at the Artis Zoo, but thanks to the cows most
Amsterdammers come here to buy fresh milk or some-
thing even tastier. This farm, which is spread out over 125
hectares, also makes delicious organic ice cream! Enjoy
the entire selection of avours in the spacious garden.
QM-4, Broekergouw 5, tel. (+31) 623 94 90 17, www.
zorgboerderijamsterdam.com. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. TLNBS
Noords latest boutique accommodation: the Brooklyn Hotel
Summer 2014 39 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Noord
RESTAURANTS
Noord has a little something for everyone from ultra hip
ne dining to a boat that serves pancakes.
ASIAN
WOK KING
The two statues of lions at the entrance, or shishi as Man-
darin speakers call them, make it plain that this massive
restaurant specialises in cuisine from the Far East, or to
be more precise, Chinese stir fried dishes. Although the
menu has plenty on oer, you can make things easy on
yourself and choose a set menu or the unlimited buet,
which includes free drinks. There is not much of a selec-
tion beyond the stir fried stu, but the friendly atmo-
sphere and service make this restaurant quite popular,
particularly for large groups.QM-3, Buikslotermeer-
plein 15, tel. (+31) 206 36 35 68, www.wokking.nl.
Open 16:30 - 22:30. (17 - 20). GK
FAST FOOD
FEBO
Looking for something cheap, fast and a step above the
stu youd get at typical fast food joint? With more than
20 outlets in Amsterdam, FEBO is the undisputed king of
snacks in town. Its also easy to spot as it still oers the
now legendary coin operated automated wall of food. We
recommend the unbeatable satekroket made with a sub-
stance which is hard to describe. Youll just have to take
our word for it.QM-3, Buikslotermeerplein 54, tel. (+31)
204 94 21 20, www.febo.nl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. Also at M-2, Vuurwerkerweg 15. Open
10:30 - 20:00, Thu 10:30 - 21:00, Sun 11:30 - 20:00. S
PIETJE FRIETJE
In our opinion theres nothing wrong with evening out
your cholesterol level after a long day of walking and
sightseeing. Pietje Frietje, an old-fashioned snackbar con-
veniently located in a grass eld at the corner of Schaaf-
straat and the busy Meeuwenlaan, is a good place to start.
All of the usual fries, croquettes and other deep fried foods
can be enjoyed in the open air.QN-3, Meeuwenlaan. (2
- 3). 6BS
Noord is a unique combination of the old and the new
CYCLING IN NOORD
A bike ride through North is essentially a trip back
through the centuries. Four centuries to be exact. Due
to the extensive peat lands and dangerous swamps, this
area remained uninhabited for ages. This unprecedented
and unspoiled piece of wetlands is the Netherlands at its
purest. The route along the Waterland Zeedijk dike from
Schellingwoude to the old shing village of Durgerdam
takes in the impressive IJsselmeer and the buiten-IJ with
its historic, sailing ships. Durgerdam is the most impres-
sive part of this magnicent landscape; a beautiful an-
cient shing village where the multi-coloured wooden
houses opposite the marina lean against one another
and oer views of the vast distances of the IJsselmeer
Lake. When the Zuiderzee was closed o in 1932, a large
part of the shing industry disappeared. Today the vil-
lage is a protected conservation area.
Ransdorp is one of those typical wetlands villages with
historic wooden houses and beautiful, traditional Dutch
stolp farmhouses tranquilly located on vast peat mead-
ows. Its unbelievable that this patch of peace and quiet
can be found within Amsterdams city limits! The village
is marked by a large, blunt tower visible on the horizon.
Ransdorp was home to Geertje Dircx, housekeeper and
later mistress of Rembrandt. One long bicycle route runs
to Holysloot, a picturesque village consisting of one
street, the Dorpsstraat. Along the way you can see all
kinds of farms with traditional Dutch farmhouses called
stolp. Here the houses, barns and sheds are all located
under one high, single roof in the shape of a pyramid.
Make sure to visit the Holysloter Die marina, owned
by the John family, which oers a famous bicycle ferry
to the other side in the direction of Broek in Waterland
(there are daily ferries between 09:00 - 17:00 in July and
August). Take the opportunity to stretch your legs at the
outdoor caf or hire a rowboat, canoe or whisper boat.
The nearby restaurant Het Schoolhuis and John marina
provide information about various tourist destinations.
Last, but not least, is the Volgermeer polder, which
functioned as Amsterdams city dump in the 20th cen-
tury. Since 2003, the area is part of a massive clean-up
eort that will eventually result in a scenic park area. If
nothing else, make sure to visit the beautiful church here.
40 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Noord
INDONESIAN
PUSPITA
Virtually every Indonesian restaurant in Holland is stued
full of wooden carvings, authentic wajang dolls and pic-
tures of rice elds. Fortunately Puspita is one of the rare ex-
ceptions. On the other hand, the interior puts one in mind
of a bourgeois Dutch pub with old fashioned chairs and hor-
rible lace curtains. As far as food goes, however, this small
restaurant gets top marks and the rice table is brilliant and
better than what passes for traditional Indonesian cuisine
in the centre of town. We recommend the bakso ikan sh
soup.QN-3, Purmerplein 5, tel. (+31) 206 36 82 15. Open
16:00 - 22:00. (8 - 15). TLGS
INTERNATIONAL
DE IJ-KEUKEN
In the Third World its not unusual to have dinner at some-
ones house for relatively little money. Although this is a
way for the people of those nations to make ends meet, in
Holland people do it because its trendy, yet practical and a
good way for locals to show o their love of food without
opening an expensive restaurant. One such Amsterdam
home chef is Tinda. In a pleasant terraced house in Noord
you can choose from Mediterranean, Far Eastern, North Af-
rican or Dutch cuisine. Its not particularly cheap, however,
as a four-course dinner will set you back about 45, but its
denitely something dierent.QN-2, Koperslagerij 51, tel.
(+31) 206 71 17 28, www.ij-keuken.nl. (45). TLG
EYE BAR-RESTAURANT
This restaurant is located inside the impressive EYE lm
institute. The terrace provides incredible views of the River
IJ and the wait sta are friendly and attentive, but the food
isnt as impressive as the building in which this establish-
ment is housed. The EYE Bar-Restaurant is in fact more of
a restaurant than a bar, although wed feel more comfort-
able recommending it as a good place to have a beer or a
cocktail. In any case, even if youre not planning to eat or
drink here, the modern building in the shape of an eye is
worth a visit.QN-2, IJpromenade 1, tel. (+31) 205 89 14
02, www.eyebarrestaurant.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 10:30 - 23:30. (10 - 15). PTAULBXW
THT
Although there are many reasons to visit this trendy
eatery, its fantastic patio overlooking the River IJ would
have to be at the top of the list. Theres nothing better
than enjoying a cold craft brew on this amazing terrace
on a hot and sunny day. That said, THT also serves small,
tasty international dishes which are meant to be shared
among friends. This interesting concept allows each din-
er to taste more than one dish.QN-2, Buiksloterweg 5c,
tel. (+31) 207 60 48 20, info@tht.nl, www.tht.nl. Open
10:00 - 01:00. (6 - 10). AB
VERONICASCHIP
As the name would suggest, this restaurant, caf and live
music venue is hidden aboard a ship named Veronica,
which is conveniently moored at the NDSM-Pier. You can
stop by for a cup of coee, a beer and some snacks or a
proper lunch. The chefs specialise in Dutch and interna-
tional cuisine, but you can also just enjoy a sunset over the
River IJ with a glass of wine or Champagne. The vessel is
also available for weddings and special events. Although
we enjoyed the classic uitsmijter, the Japanese yakitori
also looked tempting. QM-2, NDSM-Pier 1, tel. (+31)
203 70 71 42, veronicaschip.info@gmail.com, www.
veronicazendschip.nl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu. B
NEPALESE
MT. EVEREST
The Nepalese are among the most hospitable people
in Asia and this holds true for the sta of this genuine
Nepalese restaurant. Anyone whos ever visited the Hi-
malayas will realise that only a handful of the spicy dishes
on the are suitable for the western palates. Try delicious
thalis and curries or the kukhura ko masu (with chicken
bones) and wash it down with a refreshing Gurkha, the
dark beer enjoyed by some of the worlds best trained
soldiers. The dcor of Mt. Everest is typically Nepalese
and the room is decorated with hundreds of colourful
prayer ags, pictures of the highest mountain in the
world and loads of burning candles.QN-2, Spreeuwen-
park 3, tel. (+31) 206 32 60 55, www.mteverest.nl.
Open 15:00 - 22:30. TLGS
ORGANIC
BITE ME
Located in the trendy, arty Tolhuis Tuin, this concept caf
is all about fresh, seasonal, preferably organic produce. But
thats not all. Its inventive sta, none of whom are profes-
sional chefs, shun convention and the shackles of tradi-
tional recipes by creating unique combinations of ingredi-
ents that most cooks wouldnt consider mixing together.
Drop by its buet during the day or try one of its takeaway
picnic lunches, which can be enjoyed at the tables outside
or anywhere you choose. Catering for parties and events
is also available.QN-2, Tolhuisweg 2, tel. (+31) 634 01 55
69, www.biteme.co.nl. BS
Relax at a caf by the water in Amsterdam Noord
Summer 2014 41 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Noord
NIGHTLIFE
Nothing can beat central Amsterdam for nightlife, but if
youre looking for a laid back local pub devoid of tourists,
Noord might be the place for you.
CAFE KOFFIEHUIS BLOKKER
Despite the fact that its name means coee house, its
popularity has nothing to do with a good cup of Joe. This
pub is a meeting place for guys from the neighbourhood
who enjoy a game of cards, a spin at the slot machine and
a chat about the latest news from the area over a few pints.
Friendly folks and a pleasant atmosphere are the hallmarks
of this place, but you probably shouldnt disturb the card
players in the heat of a game. The terrace provides a view
of the Mosveld Square outside, which sounds more pictur-
esque than it actually is.QN-2, Mosveld 49, tel. (+31) 206
36 97 39. GBX
CAFE T EITJE
If there were prize for the ugliest bar exterior, Cafe t Eitje
would be a strong contender. Thats also the reason why
youll be so astonished by the classic interior, which fea-
tures three dart boards and a pool table. In fact, a local
dart club plays its matches at this friendly establishment
and despite the unattractive location it can get quite busy
here. Cafe t Eitje literally translates as Cafe the Egg and
its located right next to Cafetaria de Kip, which means
Cafeteria the Chicken. For a moment we wondered which
of the two came rst, but we decided to leave this age-old
question alone.QN-3, Motorwal 280, tel. (+31) 206 34 17
38, www.cafeteitje.nl. G
CAFE VAN BELLE
Like most other bars in the neighbourhood, the clien-
tele of Cafe Van Belle consists of regulars who seem to
know each other very well. Outsiders are not particularly
welcome and as a result youll need to know something
about Dutch billiards to impress the locals here. The in-
terior of the bar is pleasant enough and features a large
wooden counter, not to mention quite a few photo-
graphs of Laurel and Hardy. The TV is usually tuned in
to a sports channel in case the regulars dont feel like
fraternising with you, the enemy.QM-2, Mosplein 26,
tel. (+31) 206 36 16 75. G
PANCAKES
DE PANNEKOEKENBOOT
The Pancake Boat cant be compared in any way to the
traditional tour boats that roam the busy Amsterdam ca-
nals. Even its route is completely dierent from those of its
competitors. This oating double-decker doesnt follow the
usual ring of canals, but takes you past all of the architec-
tural masterpieces of Amsterdam North instead. But most of
the people on board probably couldnt care less where the
boats headed as their focus is on the enormous servings of
pancakes on oer. The main draw of this oating food fac-
tory is the all-you-can-eat pancake meal. Bon voyage and
bon apptit!QM-2, Ms. van Riemsdijkweg, tel. (+31) 206
36 88 17, www.pannenkoekenboot.nl. Tours begin at
13:30, 16:30 and 18:00 and cost as low as 10 depending
on the tour. Closed Mon, Tue. TALGB
SEAFOOD
STORK
Classic dishes like oysters, swordsh, sea bass, lobster and
all kinds of other delicacies from the aquatic world are
given a new dimension here and the industrial furnishings
add to its potential. The lighting from the large windows
is beautiful and almost artistic and the massive outdoor
terrace is super trendy. Unfortunately, at times the wait-
ers seem to get lost in this enormous space, which may
mean that your delicious oven-baked dish might have to
be sent back to the open-plan kitchen for a re-heat.QN-3,
Gedempt Hamerkanaal t/o 96, tel. (+31) 206 34 40 00,
www.restaurantstork.nl. Open 11:00 - 22:30. Closed
Mon. (19 - 23). TA6LGBXW
STEAKS
LOETJE AAN HET IJ
Located in the heart of a brand new yacht marina, this futur-
istic building has been transformed into an elegant eatery
by a popular chain of Dutch steakhouses. A giant terrace on
a wooden platform oers views of the river and an excellent
place to tuck into a juicy sirloin or t-bone.QM-1, Werfkade
14, loetjeaantij.loetje.com. PALBXW
TURKISH
ELMAS
There are exactly 110 dishes listed on the menu at Elmas,
a modern Turkish restaurant in a multicultural neighbour-
hood that oers the best cuisine the Anatolian peninsula
has to oer. Luckily the menus neatly ordered, so its easy
to nd your favourites among the many options. The only
typically Turkish elements found here are the large num-
ber of plates depicting well-known towns east of the Bos-
porus, which adorn the walls. Elmas is also a good option
for the daily all-you-can-eat buet for 6.50 is available till
noon.QN-2, Spreeuwenpark 1, tel. (+31) 206 36 33 29,
www.restaurantelmas.nl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 03:00. (9 - 15). TALBXS
Sailing vessels at Oranjesluizen
42 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Noord
SIGHTSEEING
Fancy a day spent picnicking in a park or wandering around
a sculpture garden? Curious why Amsterdam Noord has
only one ocial museum? Read on.
BUILDINGS & ARCHITECTURE
EL MOUSSHINE MOSQUE
Just a short walk from the IJ-plein ferry landing youll nd
this stunning blue-green Moroccan mosque designed by
architect Gerard Rijnsdorp in 2005. Although not open to
the general public its still worth a look from the outside.
Further down the street on a lawn on the right is a colour-
ful work of art by Alfred Eikelenboom (1987) entitled De
Muur.QN-2, Meeuwenlaan.
HET KRAANSPOOR
Its usually standard practice to construct buildings verti-
cally, but in Amsterdam-Noord the world of architecture
has been turned upside down. With Het Kraanspoor ar-
chitect Trude Hooykaas designed the largest, and pos-
sibly the most beautiful block of ats in the Netherlands.
The narrow track of land where shipbuilding cranes once
swayed back and forth has been transformed into a giant
transparent building. The 270m-long horizontal structure
is an impressive mixture of the old NDSM shipyard and a
modern glass structure suspended above concrete pillars
forgotten by time.QM-2, Kraanspoor.
THE GREEN DRAGON (DE GROENE DRAECK)
The old dutch name De Groene Draeck (The Green
Dragon) is derived from the historic at-bottomed yacht
used by the Dutch royal family. Its located on the prem-
ises of the former shipyard owned by a famous family of
shipbuilders where the rst polyester yachts in the Neth-
erlands were designed and constructed. Today, the build-
ing is home to a variety of young and dynamic companies.
QM-2, Grasweg.
TROMMELWONINGEN
Twiske West is part of a new development that consists
of 12 circular residential buildings. Each so-called drum
contains seven dwellings surrounding an open central
courtyard. All of the homes occupy three oors and have
a garden. Because each of the three storeys is comprised
of one seventh of a circle, each apartment has abundant
sunlight and a panoramic view of almost 160 degrees.QL-
2, Schelvisch Hoofd.
WOODEN HOUSES
Bundled together in little photogenic streets alongside
picturesque dikes like the Buiksloterdijk, Schellingwou-
derdijk and the beautiful Nieuwendammerdijk, all of
Noords 160 classic wooden homes are easily accessible
by bike. Most of these forgotten testaments to an Amster-
dam nearly lost were built in the 17th and 19th centuries,
the two eras in which the dikes ourished.QM-3, Nieu-
wendammerdijk.
CHURCHES
KERK ZUNDERDORP
If someone ever organises a competition for the Most
Beautiful Church in the Netherlands, this white-brown
building will be a strong contender if not for its architec-
tural splendour, then at least for its idyllic location. This
place is remarkably quiet, although the bleating sheep
and clucking chickens nearby create a very Dutch atmo-
sphere. But a plaque commemorating World War II victims
and the bricked up windows hint that this place hasnt al-
ways been so peaceful. If youd like to enjoy this beautiful
spot permanently, its possible to reserve a space under
the poplars and chestnut trees in the cemetery. Services
are held every Sunday morning at 10:00.QM-4, Achter-
laan 20, Zunderdorp, www.kerkzunderdorp.nl/.
SCHELLINGWOUDERKERK
Due to limited space in the wetlands surrounding Amster-
dam, buildings are usually built on top of the remains of a
former structure and the Schellingwouderkerk is no excep-
tion. Like many other 19th-century churches, its built on
a mound at the bottom of an embankment. The churchs
interior boasts a blue-green wooden ceiling and white plas-
terwork.QN-4, Wijkergouw 6, Schellingwoude.
MUSEUMS
AMSTERDAM NORTH MUSEUM (MUSEUM DE
NOORD)
There are over 40 museums in Amsterdam, yet theres only
one in Noord. Even though the history of Amsterdam North
stretches back much further than that of the settlement on
the other side of the River IJ, Amsterdams largest district
didnt get its own museum until 2009. Located in the former
public baths of the Vogeldorp, one of the characteristic gar-
den cities of Noord, the museum tells the interesting story
of this part of the capital. The museum also oers plenty of
maps for guided or independent walking and cycling tours
that will help you explore the attractions of North and its
surrounding wetlands. An exhibition on a changing part of
the history of Amsterdam North is held every three months.
QN-3, Zamenhofstraat 28a, tel. (+31) 630 97 56 02, www.
museumamsterdamnoord.nl. Open 13:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: 4. TLNG
The charming village of Zunderdorp and its famous church
Summer 2014 43 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Noord
PARKS & GARDENS
NOORDERPARK
For decades the heart of Amsterdam North was a messy
combination of two parks (the Florapark and Volewijkspark),
a canal and a busy through road. The two parks were har-
moniously merged to create a green oasis nearly the size of
the Vondelpark in the Museum district (45 hectares). The
landscape of trees and elds is perfect for picnics.QM-2/3,
Wingerdweg, www.noorderpark.amsterdam.nl.
TOLHUISTUIN
This lovely garden used to be reserved for employees of
the petroleum giant Shell until it was returned to the city a
few years ago. Now the Tolhuistuin has become a cultural
centre in Amsterdam Noord, where you can enjoy food
and drinks, watch and artistic performance or just chill out
on the lawn.QN-2, Tolhuisweg 5, tel. (+31) 207 63 06 50,
www.tolhuistuin.nl.
PLACES OF INTEREST
DURGERDAM
Durgerdam is a tiny hamlet on the shores of the IJsselmeer,
where you can view some traditional wooden houses, a
Protestant church dating from 1687 and a landscape of wet-
lands and polders. Another attraction is Durgerdams ma-
rina, where you can gaze at luxurious yachts and envy the
people entering the private sailing club.QN-5, Durgerdam.
EYE FILM INSTITUTE
EYE is the only institute in the Netherlands that collects and
displays lm-related ephemera like photographs, posters,
soundtracks, equipment and directors archives. Its col-
lection spans the entire length of lm history from silent
lms to the newest digital productions. Called the heart
of lm, the huge white spaces covering over 1200m2 pro-
vide numerous interactive and educational lm projects,
while four theatres each dierent in size and theme
bring you the latest art-house lms and old classics. Many
people take the free ferry here for the gorgeous view from
its caf and outdoor terraces.QN-2, IJpromenade 1, tel.
(+31) 205 89 14 00, www.eyeflm.nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:15. TJAULGBKXW
MARITIME QUARTER
What do boats like the Pollux, a magnicent steel three-
masted schooner, the Amstel Botel, a former riverboat
cruise ship that was transformed into a 3-star hotel, and
the Sirius, a famous Greenpeace ship, have in common?
Nothing, despite the fact that theyre all moored adjacent
to the NDSM shipyard in the Maritime Quarter, a striking
collection of ships and buildings situated around a long
jetty. Other impressive vessels include the red Irish light-
ship Finley that attracts cultural party-goers from around
the city, the old Russian submarine and the wooden Mahu
M880 minesweeper. Right next to the ferry is the platform
for De Pannenkoekenboot where you can enjoy a cruise
and an all-you-can-eat pancake buet.QN-4, NDSM-Pier.
NAUTICADAM YACHT CLUB
If youre sailing to Amsterdam Noord on a yacht and youre
looking for a place to dock, then sail straight to this ma-
rina where you can even have your vessel repaired after
a rough journey on the sea. Unfortunate souls who dont
own a ship can also stroll around Nauticadam and ad-
mire the luxurious yachts in the harbour. Some people
are usually at work on the small marine wharf as well.
The Sail Caf is located in the back and oers refreshing
drinks and a pleasant piece of lawn to lie down on.QN-3,
Nieuwendammerdijk 284, tel. (+31) 206 32 06 16. Open
14:00 - 22:00. 6LGBKX
NDSM-WERF (NDSM SHIPYARD)
An excursion just west of the NDSM shipyard is a must
for anyone with a taste for modern architecture. For 60
years a massive shipping industry called the NDSM-ship-
yard wharf home. Countless vessels left these legendary
wharves, a part of the Dutch seafaring tradition that had
lasted for centuries and made Amsterdam one of the
planets economic powerhouses. But nothing lasts forever
and the shipping industry suered greatly during the eco-
nomic recession of the 1970s, which had a profound eect
on Amsterdam-Noord and its residents. In 1984, the ship-
yard nally closed its doors, but the misery caused by un-
employment and the loss of a proud livelihood sowed the
seeds of todays rebirth. The shipyard has been converted
into a cultural venue that has become one of Amsterdams
hottest entertainment centres. Concerts, festivals and the-
atre are held amid a landscape of monumental industrial
buildings.QM-2, NDSM-werf.
STATUES & MONUMENTS
THE BUTTON (DE KNOOP)
The Button is one of the most celebrated works by de-
ceased artist Andr Volten (2002). Inspired by the indus-
trial environment of Noord, the ex-welder specialised in
creating large brass and stainless steel objects. Whenever
he had the time he would experiment with materials he
found in the former shipyard. Although this steel giant
seems to be a simple piece of art, a closer look will reveal a
work full of depth.QM-2, Grasweg.
Visit the tiny church at Schellingwoude
44 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Noord
SHOPPING
BEEKHOVEN BIKES
This huge bike shop has been selling all manner of bicycles
and accessories for over 25 years. It also specialises in rac-
ing and electric bikes.QM-2, Draaierweg 16, tel. (+31)
206 31 71 20, www.beekhovenbikes.nl. Open 09:00 -
18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A
BLOM&BLOM
The two Blom brothers, Kamiel and Martijn, have a passion
for old industrial relics that most people see as junk. They
restore or repurpose these forgotten artefacts and create
incredibly stylish lighting xtures and furniture, which you
can buy at their showroom in Amsterdam Noord.QM-2,
Chrysantenstraat 20A, tel. (+31) 207 37 26 91, hello@
blomandblom.com, blomandblom.com. Open 10:00 -
18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
KASTINO MOLENWIJK
Kastino oers a huge selection of cheeses including or-
ganic brands by local producers.QL-2, Molenwijk 29, tel.
(+31) 206 33 01 09, www.kastino.nl. Open 08:30 - 18:00,
Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. A
KERAMIEK ATELIER MARJOKE DE HEER
If youre interested in ceramics you can watch the artist at
work here or have a look at the gallery of nished prod-
ucts. The gallery is open on weekends or by appointment.
QN-4, Schellingwouderdijk 243, tel. (+31) 204 90 49 39,
www.marjokedeheer.com. Open Fri 13:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. A
LANDMARKT AMSTERDAM
Local organic farmers and horticulturists sell their pro-
duce to Landmarkt. This spacious indoor hall is heaven
on earth for foodies and anyone who appreciates fresh
food, but unlike similar organic markets the bread, meat,
sh, vegetables and other daily necessities are hardly more
expensive than the stu youll get at a regular shop. QN-
4, Schellingwouderdijk 339, www.landmarkt.nl. Open
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. TAULG
NEEF LOUIS
Find vintage furniture, designer chairs and lots of industrial
lamps in this enormous warehouse. Although you can nd
some real gemse, dont expect to nd any bargains.QM-2,
Papaverweg 46, tel. (+31) 204 86 93 54, www.neefouis.
nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Summer 2014 45 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Noord
SPORTS & LEISURE
9 GHOLES VOETGOLF AMSTERDAM
Leave it to the Dutch to come up with a new way to utilise
farmland. 9 Gholes is essentially a 9-hole golf course just
outside of Zunderdorp, but for football enthusiasts. Instead
of a club and a small ball, participants kick footballs from
one hole to the next while trying to avoid obstacles along
the way. You can also order lunch, snacks and drinks as part
of the experience.QM-4, Broekergouw 2, tel. (+31) 619 23
43 03/(+31) 628 97 44 38, www.9gholes.nl. Open 13:00 -
22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
MSTERDAM MARINA
This beautiful harbour, which opened in 2013, oers slips
for 350 sailing vessels. As long as your home on the water is
between 7 and 30 metres long you can drop anchor at this
historic harbour where huge ships have been built for cen-
turies. Extras like free internet and a good steakhouse on
the premises are a couple more reasons to choose mster-
dam Marina as your home away from home.QM-1, Wer-
fkade 4, tel. (+31) 206 31 07 67, www.amsterdammarina.
com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. JALKW
NOORD FOR KIDS
PIRATES TOUR
Children can also be adventurous and search this wetlands
area for real treasure. Up to ve children and one adult can
take a rowboat and look for clues until they nd the pot
of gold. QKanaaldijk 32a, Landsmeer, tel. (+31) 880 06
44 55, www.landschapnoordholland.nl/Piratentocht.
Open 10.00 - 17.00. Closed Mon. (20/boat for 2 hours).
Charming houses on the Buiksloterdijk
46 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Oost
Amsterdam East, or simply Oost (pronounced oast), is an
incredibly diverse district of the Dutch capital that encom-
passes neighbourhoods that couldnt be more dierent
from one another. The recently built IJburg island, which is
still under construction, is a largely residential area that is
home to modern architecture, a main street called IJburg-
laan lled with cafs and shops and a public beach only
minutes from the city centre, while the areas known as
Indische Buurt and Dapperbuurt in the Zeeburg district
are populated by immigrants, students and an increasing
number of auent Amsterdammers who enjoy its diverse
dining scene. Dapperbuurt hosts a huge market on one of
the few streets in the region not named after an Indonesian
island and is the ideal locale to try a Moroccan cookie or a
real Turkish kebab. The KNSM and Java islands in the East-
ern Docklands of the city once supported a huge working
harbour, but are now mostly home to auent Amsterdam-
mers. Finally, a trip to Oost wouldnt be complete without
a visit to one of the trendy cafs on Linnaeusstraat by the
Oosterpark or the authentic pubs of the Watergraafsmeer
around Middenweg.
ARRIVING IN OOST
Most of Amsterdam East can be easily reached by public
transport. To visit IJburg take tram No.26 from the Central
Station. For Indische Buurt, Dapperbuurt, Flevopark and
Watergraafsmeer take trams No.7 or 14 from Leidseplein.
For KSNM and Java islands take tram No.10 to the last stop.
ACCOMMODATION
LLOYD HOTEL
Once used as accommodation for emigrants waiting for
their ship to depart, this monumental building overlook-
ing the water dates back to the 1920s, but it was given a
complete overhaul by a number of popular Dutch design-
ers before it was re-opened as a hotel in 2004. The hotel
has a unique concept as it oers rooms of varying styles
and levels of comfort for guests of all tax brackets. Stay in
a ve-star suite with loads of space, a huge bathtub and
a grand piano or choose a Spartan, yet chic room with a
bed, table, water view and shared bathrooms and toilets in
the corridor.QP-1, Oostelijke Handelskade 34, tel. (+31)
205 61 36 36, www.lloydhotel.com. 117 rooms (117 dou-
bles 80 - 300). THA6LGBKW hhh
STAYOKAY AMSTERDAM ZEEBURG
Its 500 beds are spread throughout its doubles, quads and six-
bed dorm rooms all of which include a Spartan interior with
an orange and grey colour scheme, new metal bunk beds, a
sink and a separate shower and toilet. Security isnt a problem
as guests can only access the corridor where their own room
is located, but unfortunately youll have to stow your impor-
tant gear in lockers on the ground oor. The IJ brewery is a
short walk away.QP-2, Timorplein 21, tel. (+31) 205 51 31
90, www.stayokay.com. 500 beds (beds in six-bed dorms
from 9, beds in four-bed dorms from 11, doubles from
32, quads from 42). HAUGBKW
FOOD & DRINK
BADHUIS JAVAPLEIN
Opened as a public bathhouse in 1942, it was nally closed
in 1980s when it apparently became more common for
locals to bathe in their own homes. Today its hip design
attracts fans of good style as well as good food and drink
and its patrons can enjoy lunch and dinner not to men-
tion tasty cocktails and uncommon beers like Texels and
Jopen. The food ranges from salads and its signature Ab-
erdeen Angus burger to rib-eye steaks and rabbit stew. A
kids menu is also available.QP-2, Javaplein 21, tel. (+31)
206 65 12 26, www.badhuis-javaplein.nl. Open 10:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (6 - 17). IBW
CAF KUIJPER
At the weekend its pretty much standing room only at
Caf Kuijper where the music can scarcely be heard above
the din of boisterous conversations energised by great
draught brews from the IJ, Jopen and Texels breweries. If
the crowds bring out your inner claustrophobia then go
for a smoke or some fresh air out on the terrace. The fea-
tures of the interior that stand out most would have to be
the blue oral tiles, the strange, metallic lamps dangling
from chains above the bar and a huge map of Amsterdam
on the wall in the back, not to mention the golden palm
trees. Snacks, soups, salads and sandwiches are also avail-
able.QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 79, tel. (+31) 206 65 19 26,
www.cafekuijper.nl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
03:00. (5 - 10). AB
DE BIERTUIN
If for some reason you cant seem to make it to the IJ brew-
ery for a tasting, then drop by the Beer Garden, which serves
a number of brews from Amsterdams famous brewery on
draught and in bottles. Other tasty oerings include beers
by Texels and other brewers from the Benelux region and all
of them are poured in a bright and airy space that is nearly
always laden with the perfume of roasting chickens that
rotate on spits next to the bar. This is, of course, its special-
ity and a bargain at just under 14. Note the three golden
palms on the walls as well as the bars slogan God save the
beer in large letters.QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 29, tel. (+31)
206 65 09 56, www.debiertuin.nl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AB
Kids enjoying the summer on Java Island
Summer 2014 47 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Oost
KOFFIE IN OOST
Although this cosy caf isnt particularly large it has man-
aged to maximise its space by oering seating on the
ground oor, upstairs and in the cellar. Exposed brick and
bone white walls are spruced up with fresh cut tulips,
stained glass and enormous shop front windows that
bathe Coee in East in lots of natural light during the day.
Drink gourmet coee or tea with a slice of chocolate cake
or an everything bagel smothered in cream cheese or oth-
er tasty toppings like lox, matured cheese and hummus.
QP-2, Linnaeuskade 1A, tel. (+31) 207 76 44 87, www.
kofeinoost.nl. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. ABSW
DE PONTENEUR
Unlike many restaurants in the Dutch capital, this one has
an abundance of space and incredibly high ceilings con-
founding the notion that Amsterdam cafs have to be
claustrophobic. The rened menu is creative and oers
such delicacies as lamb tournedos and homemade wild
boar pate with toast and cranberry chutney and we partic-
ularly enjoyed the shot of cauliower soup we were given
to whet our appetite. A large reading table is available as
well plenty of toys and games for the kids and live music
is played every second Sunday of the month. Aordable
daily specials are listed on the blackboard above the open-
plan kitchen and a great selection of beer is also available.
Naturally, in the summer all of this can be enjoyed on a
large terrace outside.QP-2, Eerste van Swindenstraat
581, tel. (+31) 206 68 06 80, www.ponteneur.nl. Open
09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
(12 - 15). ABW
POMPSTATION
If youre looking for a hip eatery in Oost, youll nd few
better places than Pompstation. Although not exactly a
traditional steak house, it does oer an extensive menu
of meat dishes including a whole kilos woth of Cote de
Boeuf and a dry aged Hereford from Uruguay. Naturally,
these extraordinary slabs of beef come with a consider-
ably higher price tag, but the unbeatable ambience is also
included in the bill. The Pump Station is in fact a fully func-
tioning industrial monument dating back to 1920, which is
worth a visit for its unique interior alone.QP-2, Zeeburg-
erdijk 53, tel. (+31) 206 92 28 88, www.pompstation.nu.
Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. (19 - 25). TALGBKW
WILDE ZWIJNEN
This stylish restaurant behind the bathhouse on Javaplein
is a bit more upmarket than most eateries in the area, but
every neighbourhood needs a special place for foodies
and ne diners. Patrons can choose from a 3- or 4-course
chefs menu for 29.50 and 35.50, respectively, or try one
of a few signature dishes from its small a la carte menu
including its namesake the wild boar. Credit cards arent
accepted, so bring cash or a bank card.QP-2, Javaplein
23hs, tel. (+31) 204 63 30 43, www.wildezwijnen.com.
Open 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. (20 - 30). BW
SHOPPING
DAPPERSTRAAT MARKET (DAPPERMARKT)
One of the oldest markets in the city, the Dappermarkt
oers hundreds of street stalls selling household goods,
cheap clothing, second-hand fashion, fresh produce and lo-
cal specialities like smoked sh and traditional herring, not
to mention Vietnamese spring rolls.QP-2, Dapperstraat,
www.dappermarkt.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Sun.
SIGHTSEEING
MUSEUM OF THE TROPICS (TROPENMUSEUM)
Housed in a monumental building that is also home to the
Royal Tropical Institute, this museum is a must for students
of anthropology and ethnography and anyone who ap-
preciates non-Western cultures. Unlike many museums
that are simply a catalogue of artefacts from ancient times
and extinct civilisations, the Tropics Museum not only
oers examples of antique art, but also household items
and objects used in the daily lives of vibrant, living cul-
tures throughout the tropical regions of the world from
Indian Bollywood posters to African ads for hair salons.
.QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 2, tel. (+31) 205 68 82 00, www.
tropenmuseum.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission:
adults 9, children 6 - 17 years 5, children 5 and under
free. AK
T NIEUWE DIEP DISTILLERY
Located in a renovated pumping station on the water
near the entrance to the Flevopark, this small distillery is
partly owned by former archaeologist Kees Filius who has
a passion for the Dutch tradition of distilling spirits. After
years of trial and error the t Nieuwe Diep Distillery now
produces roughly 100 of its own spirits made in small
batches at this wonderful and historic location where
even Rembrandt once painted its sublime view. A tour of
the facilities is available every Friday at 16:00, but you can
visit its tasting room on weekdays and sample the goods
for yourself or buy a bottle to bring home as the perfect
Amsterdam souvenir. QP-2, Flevopark 13, tel. (+31) 204
65 02 22, www.nwediep.nl. Tasting room: open 15:00 -
20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00, closed Mon. Distillery tour
every Friday at 16:00. B
A relaxing day by the water in Amsterdam Oost
48 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
West
Amsterdam West is both a residential and commercial dis-
trict of the city sandwiched between four parks, the Vondel
Park, Rembrandt Park, Erasmus Park and Westerpark, so
youre never far away from a green space for a picnic, some
good cycling or just a relaxing time spent on a patch of
grass. The area around Overtoom is legendary for its restau-
rants that serve anything from Ethiopian to Iranian cuisine,
not to mention its numerous shops, many of which special-
ise in cutting-edge interior design items for homes and of-
ces. Eerste Constantijn Huijgensstraat and Bilderdijkstraat
are also home to cosy cafs and pubs, while the Wester-
gasfabriek in the north of the district is a former industrial
estate that has been converted into a creative cultural park
full of galleries, clubs and restaurants - an absolute must-
see in West!
ARRIVING IN WEST
Amsterdam West is right next to the city centre, so if you
dont mind a brisk walk you can get there on foot from the
Central Station in about 30 - 45 minutes. Of course, not
everyone wants to drag their luggage around town, so just
take tram No.1 to reach Overtoom. For De Clercqstraat and
Admiraal De Ruijterweg take tram No.13. For the Wester-
park and Westergasfabriek take bus No.22 from the station
to the last stop Spaarndammerbuurt and then walk the rest
of the way.
ACCOMMODATION
HOTEL ROEMER
Spread out over two renovated mansions in the Museum
District, this place is cosy and warm, yet also stylish and
luxurious. In three of the rooms youll have to make do
with rainforest showers, but all others have their own pri-
vate Jacuzzis and if youd like a drink, dont bother look-
ing for a mini-bar. Just pour yourself a cocktail from the
fully stocked bar, which is included in the price. An iPod
docking station, Nespresso machine, wi- and TV with
DVD player are also standard amenities here and a cot-
tage is available in the Zen-like garden behind the hotel.
QT-4, Roemer Visscherstraat 10, tel. (+31) 205 89 08
00, www.vondelhotels.com. 23 rooms (doubles from
180, executive from 210, junior suites from 280).
PAGW hhhh
FOOD & DRINK
DE KEU
There are dozens of pool tables and a great Bohemian
vibe here at one of Amsterdams oldest billiards halls. The
walls are covered in old movie posters and theres always
plenty of people hanging about with drinks in their hands.
Open until the wee hours of the morning, the Cue is much
more than just a place to play eight ball. Its also one of
Amsterdam Wests best late night hotspots.QT-4, Eerste
Helmerstraat 5 - 7, tel. (+31) 202 30 05 51, www.dekeu.
nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00.
DOSA
Although this authentic restaurant serves familiar tan-
doori, biryani and curry dishes, it also claims to be the
only place in town to serve South Indian dosa a kind of
pancake made of rice and lentil our stued with all kinds
of llings. It also specialises in a wide variety of vegetarian
cuisine, but you can also order plenty of lamb, chicken and
seafood in this elegant space decorated with wood carv-
ings. We particularly enjoyed the mild and creamy Goa-
style king prawns.QS-4, Overtoom 146, tel. (+31) 206
16 48 38, www.dosaindianrestaurant.nl. Open 16:00 -
23:30. (13 - 18). VS
FENAN KLEIN AFRIKA
Klein, or small, could refer to the actual restaurant, which
is undoubtedly on the tiny side, but it could also refer to
the menu which shows a small glimpse of an entire con-
tinents culinary traditions, especially those of East Africa.
Order an Ethiopian St George beer while you ponder the
choices in front of you before inevitably asking the friendly
wait sta to recommend something authentic and tasty.
We ended up getting the most bang for our euro by try-
ing the bebeayenetu, which is a combination of dierent
dishes served on a giant pancake of sorts. The atmosphere
inside was vibrant, hot and humid, not unlike the stereo-
typical vision of sub-Saharan Africa. Only cash and bank
cards are accepted.QS-4, Jan Pieter Heijestraat 147, tel.
(+31) 204 12 44 42, www.facebook.com/pages/Fenan-
Klein-Afrika/219525594730870?fref=ts. Open 17:00 -
23:00. B
GOLLEMS PROEFLOKAAL
This is the last of the iconic Gollem beer bars still in op-
eration, but the bartender did hint that its other former
locations in the city centre would eventually re-open, so
keep your ngers crossed. In the meantime you can take a
10-minute tram ride from the Central Station (tram Nr.1) to
this shrine dedicated to beer. If they dont have your favou-
rite Belgian brew on draught, chances are that Gollem has
it stocked in one of the beer fridges behind the bar. Dutch
snacks can also be had as well as some daily specials writ-
ten on the blackboard. A calico house cat watches over all
the drinkers from a special sleeping area above the shelves
of glasses.QS-4, Overtoom 160 - 162, tel. (+31) 206 12
94 44, www.cafegollem.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. AB
Children on Mercatorplein
Summer 2014 49 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
West
PACIFIC PARC
Although located in a huge space in a renovated factory,
this place manages to pull o a Pacic luau theme with sh
lamps, an indoor barbecue pit, tiki-style furniture and a co-
lourful chandelier about the size of a Volkswagen, which
is too bizarre for words. During the day its a good place
to hang out with the family, especially at the picnic tables
outside, but in the evening its best to leave the little ones
at home as Pacic Parc becomes a club with live DJs and
dancing. You can order standard salads and sandwiches
for lunch and full meals for dinner, but dont expect grilled
mahi-mahi, poi or other Polynesian staples.QS-2, Polon-
ceaukade 23 (Westergasfabriek), tel. (+31) 204 88 77
78, www.pacifcparc.nl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (6 - 15). AB
WESTERUNIE
Located next to the green Westerpark just outside the
city centre, this massive culture and entertainment com-
plex spans several former factories from the 19th century,
with multi-oored industrial spaces of over 2500 square
metres. You can nd a party for every audience including
popular music festivals such as Pitch (in July), house fests
like Straf-werk and queer-friendly Funhouse parties. Try
not to get lost in the maze that is the WesterUnie building.
The cool people who hang out here would enjoy that too
much.QS-2, Klnnenplein 4 - 6, tel. (+31) 206 84 84 96,
www.westerunie.nl. AB
SHOPPING
BRITISH GENERAL STORES
A massive range of genuine British goodies including HP
sauce, Heinz baked beans and great English sausages.
.QS-4, Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat 94, tel. (+31)
206 83 61 91, www.britishstore.nl. Open 10:30 - 18:00,
Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
DESIGN OVERTOOM
Design Overtoom sells funky and stylish lamps, mugs, fur-
niture and the like, but remember that hip interior design
doesnt come cheap.QS-4, Overtoom 371, tel. (+31) 206 89
81 50, www.designovertoom.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. A
RETRO IN- & OUTSTYLES
This vintage shop is crammed to the rafters with second-
hand overcoats, dresses, sweaters, scarves and even bridal
accessories.QS-4, 2e Constantijn Huijgensstraat 57, tel.
(+31) 206 83 41 80, www.retrostyles.nl. Open 12:00 -
18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
VISHANDEL SMIT
The aroma of freshly fried sh already entices as you pass
by on the street outside. Order oysters or a plate of fried
prawns and eat them standing up at the counter or buy
fresh seafood to take away.QS-4, 1e Constantijn Huy-
gensstraat 92, tel. (+31) 206 16 73 08. Open 08:00 -
17:45, Sat 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sun. S
SIGHTSEEING
HET SCHIP MUSEUM
One of the crowning achievements of Amsterdam School
architecture, this unusual building was erected in 1919 as
proof that aordable working-class housing could not
only be functional, but stylish. The historic edice is still
inhabited today, so you have to take a guided tour of the
museum, which begins at a former post oce decorated
with funky tile work characteristic of this Dutch design
movement. Guides will lead you around the building
pointing out interesting features like the bay window that
looks like a cigar, little windmills on the faade that sym-
bolise the rural workers who came to work in the citys fac-
tories and the iconic tower, which is meant to be a beacon
of socialism. QS-2, Spaarndammerplantsoen 140, tel.
(+31) 204 75 09 24, www.hetschip.nl/nl/. Open 11:00 -
17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults 7.50. A
WESTERPARK
If you keep following the popular Haarlemmerdijk shop-
ping street in the Jordaan past the Haarlemmerplein youll
eventually run into Westerpark, which is anked by a canal
on one side and train tracks and housing estates on the
other. On one end youll nd a water feature, a childrens
playground and lots of walking and bike paths, while the
far side is a vast open space popular with picnickers and
kids honing their football skills. Just beyond the park is the
Westergafabriek, a former industrial zone that has been
reclaimed by cafs, clubs and galleries.QT-2, Between
Haarlemmerweg and Zaanstraat.
WINDMILL DE BLOEM
This proud gristmill towers above a quiet industrial area on
the edge of the city. The octagonal structure is a good ex-
ample of a Dutch style smock mill and from time to time it
still serves its original purpose grinding grain into our. Its
worth a visit if youre in the area, but unless youve made
an appointment with the miller, De Bloem can only be ad-
mired from outside. The mill dates from 1768, when it was
built on a bastion of Amsterdams 17th-century city wall.
During the 19th century, the city expanded westwards
and as the fortications were gradually torn down, the mill
was moved here in 1878.QS-2, Haarlemmerweg 465, tel.
(+31) 206 82 30 04. L
Take in some sunshine at the Westerpark
50 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Zuid
Amsterdam Zuid, or South, is perhaps best known for its
large concentration of superb museums, which is the rea-
son so many hotels are also located here. It will come as
no surprise then that the citys very own Rodeo Drive, P.C.
Hooftstraat, which is occupied by brands such as Bulgari,
Vuiton and Chanel, is surrounded by 4- and 5-star ac-
commodation in Zuid. Just east of the so-called Museum
Quarter youll nd the hip De Pijp district full of bohemian
cafs, fun bars and unique shops. Its also home to the Al-
bert Cuyp Market, packed with stalls selling pretty much
anything. Just take tram No.2 or 5 to reach the heart of the
district.
CREAM OF THE CROP
CONSCIOUS HOTEL MUSEUM SQUARE
As far as price is concerned, this is one of the better ho-
tels in town, even though the exterior doesnt suggest
anything exciting. The size of the simple, but clean and
comfortable rooms vary from reasonable to extraordi-
narily large, especially when one considers similar accom-
modation in Amsterdam. Then again, only its sister hotel
on Overtoom is truly similar. Both try to be as green and
eco-friendly as possible using recycled materials in their
furnishings and even oer organic breakfasts. The Von-
del Park is a short stroll away and the centre of town is
about a 15-minute walk, but two main tram lines are just
around the corner, if youre in a hurry.QDe Lairessestraat
7, tel. (+31) 206 71 95 96, fax (+31) 206 71 17 56, www.
conscioushotels.com. 36 rooms (doubles and family
rooms 95 - 174). ALGBW hhh
EASYHOTEL AMSTERDAM FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT
The cheap, no frills airline EasyJet has also branched out
into cruise ships and even hotels, which is desperately
needed in Amsterdam where room prices are often ri-
diculously and undeservedly expensive. Located in the
bohemian De Pijp district of Amsterdam South, this hotel
provides tiny rooms with WC and a glass shower in the
room, so if you have a roommate he/she better not be shy.
Not unlike the airline, you have to pay for any extra ameni-
ties such as TV, wireless internet access and housekeeping
services.QH-10, Van Ostadestraat 97, danny.vanspall@
amsterdamfb.easyhotel.com, www.easyhotel.com. 80
rooms (doubles from 59). PZJAULGW
FOOD & DRINK
BAZAR
Located in a huge space that was once a church in the
middle of Amsterdams most famous street market, Ba-
zar oers a huge menu of delicious halal Turkish, Middle
Eastern and North African dishes too numerous to men-
tion here. Suce it to say, that you can get anything from
kebabs, falafel and hummus to exotic seafood and lots of
cuisine with tangy harissa sauce. The food is refreshingly
aordable and the atmosphere is friendly and casual. De-
spite the Islamic dcor, plenty of beer, wine and spirits can
be ordered at the central bar.QH-8, Albert Cuypstraat
182, tel. (+31) 206 75 05 44, www.bazaramsterdam.
com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 -
01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (6 - 12). A
THE OYSTER CLUB
Located in the historic stadium that hosted the 1928
Olympic Games as well as its fair share of Ajax football
matches, The Oyster Club, not surprisingly, specialises in
fresh seafood, sushi and, of course, oysters. Not unlike the
stadium itself, the restaurant and lounge is incredibly spa-
cious and oers stylish dcor as well as a huge outdoor ter-
race when the weather cooperates. Opened in 2013, it has
quickly become a local hotspot on weekend nights when
hip and auent Amsterdammers drop by for DJs and ex-
cellent cocktails.QOlympisch Stadion 35, tel. (+31) 205
70 84 00, www.theoysterclub.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri
10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (30 -
50). ALBW
V-BAR
This upmarket lounge bar is all about relaxation, but
bear in mind that the prices on the extensive wine list
can quickly take the wind out of your sails. If money
is no object, then take a seat at one of the colourful
couches or on a sturdy Asian-style pouf. As you sit with
a glass of pinot noir next to the open gas fire the prob-
lems of the outside world seem to vanish and the won-
derful view from the terrace is sublime.QKoningin-
neweg 34 - 36, tel. (+31) 206 64 61 11. Open 11:00
- 01:00. PHAGBW
YAMAZATO
The best time to visit the only Japanese restaurant in Eu-
rope with a Michelin star is in the spring when the cherry
blossoms in its private garden are in bloom. But even if
you dine here in the dead of winter you wont be disap-
pointed with the classic Sukiya-style interior, the sta in
authentic kimono or the traditional Kaiseki cuisine. When
the restaurant rst opened in the 1970s it ew local sh
suppliers to Japan to show them how seafood was sup-
posed to be presented for consumption, which means
that the sh they now serve is up to Japanese standards
and the more exotic additions to the menu are own in
from Japan.QFerdinand Bolstraat 333 (Hotel Okura),
tel. (+31) 206 78 74 50, www.yamazato.nl. Open 12:00 -
14:00, 18:00 - 21:30. (40 - 80). P
Hanging out in the shadow of the colossal Rijksmuseum
Summer 2014 51 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Zuid
SIGHTSEEING
ALBERT CUYP MARKET (ALBERT CUYPMARKT)
This vibrant daily market located in the bohemian De Pijp
district is chock full of stands selling clothing, jewellery,
fresh seafood like crab and lobster, owers, lingerie, souve-
nirs, fresh fruit, hand bags, shoes, cheese and many more
things you cant do without as wells as plenty of food stalls.
QH-9, Albert Cuypstraat, www.albertcuypmarkt.com.
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE
If youd like to see how one of the worlds most popular
beers is made and sample the nished product at its ul-
tramodern bar, then look no further than the Heineken Ex-
perience, which truly is an experience. Although this tasty
brew, which is distributed in over 170 countries around the
globe isnt produced on the premises, you can take a tour
and learn about the companys evolution from its found-
ing in 1864 in Amsterdam to its current status as a mul-
tinational brand. View exhibits that chronicle Heinekens
innovative leaps in both brewing technology and market-
ing that launched the famous red star logo on six conti-
nents..QG-9, Stadhouderskade 78, tel. (+31) 205 23 92
22, www.heineken.com/experience. Open 11:00 - 19:30
(last tour at 17:30). Admission: 17. AU
HOUSE OF BOLS COCKTAIL AND GENEVER
EXPERIENCE
Founded in Amsterdam in 1575, the House of Bols is one the
worlds oldest spirits makers. Its renowned jenever recipe
dates back to as early as 1664 and was introduced to the Brit-
ish roughly 25 years later where it was modied to English
tastes and produced locally as gin. Although the venerable
company moved away to a location near The Hague in 1969
it opened this amazing tasting experience and bartending
school near the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam in 2007.
The award-winning Genever Experience showcases the
roughly 40 liqueurs it sells in 110 countries around the world
as well as the wide varieties of jenevers it produces. Take a
self-guided, interactive tour and learn about the history of
the House of Bols.QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 14, tel. (+31)
205 70 85 75, www.houseofbols.nl. Open 12:00 - 18:00,
Fri 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission: 11.50. A
RIJKSMUSEUM
This colossal building occupies nearly an entire city block
and is nally open to the public again after years of reno-
vations. View ancient weapons, gold and silver artefacts
and of course an incredible collection of the nations
best old masters including Rembrandt, Vermeer, Bol and
Steen. Scenes depict everything from biblical tales and
windmilled landscapes to portraits and illustrations of
17th-century family life, not to mention exotic scenes
from Hollands far ung Golden Age colonies. Some of
the museums most famous paintings like Rembrandts
The Jewish Bride and The Night Watch are also described
in detail in laminated information cards, so you can take
your time and discover interesting facts about each of
these canvases. Queues can be long at peek times, mostly
due to security checks, so plan accordingly.QF-9, Mu-
seumplein/Jan Luijkenstraat 1, tel. (+31) 206 74 70 47,
www.rijksmuseum.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admis-
sion: adults 15, under 18 free.
VAN GOGH MUSEUM
Very few tourists leave Amsterdam without visiting this
incredible museum. Its vast collection includes roughly
200 paintings, 500 drawings and 750 letters that comprise
most of the works produced by the troubled artist in his
short 10-year career. After dabbling in religious vocations
and art selling, he nally embarked on his true calling in
1880, which is where the museums permanent exhibit
begins. The vibrant paintings for which he is now so re-
nowned only appeared later during his time in Paris when
he discovered colour. Although the museum is indeed a
shrine to all things Van Gogh, it also displays a varied col-
lection of works by world-famous artists from early men-
tors like Anton Mauve and Jules Dupr to such icons of
Impressionism as Monet, Manet, Pissaro, Gauguin, Renoir,
Czanne and Toulouse-Lautrec from which he drew inspi-
ration. QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 7, tel. (+31) 205 70 52
00, www.vangoghmuseum.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00,
Fri 09:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults 15, children 17 and
under free. AUKW
STEDELIJK MUSEUM
The Netherlands most important museum for modern
and contemporary art was in a coma for an unexpected
eight years, but is now open to the public. The entrance
has moved from the street to the park side, which means
that the cultural living room of Amsterdam now has its
own chill-out and meeting area outside. The addition of
a new building has doubled the size of the museum and
the Stedelijk is now the proud owner of the largest exhibi-
tion space in Holland. It has no windows, which makes this
1100m2 area also suitable for displaying digital and video
art. The interior of the old and new buildings have been
completely integrated, so youll hardly notice where the
100-year-old edice ends and the modern one begins. Just
remember that the old part houses the permanent collec-
tions, while the new building displays exhibitions.QF-10,
Museumplein 10, tel. (+31) 205 73 29 11, www.stedelijk.
nl. Admission: adults 10, under 18 free. AK
The Albert Cuyp Market is an absolute must-see in Zuid
52 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Zuidoost
Zuidoost is Amsterdams most multicultural district. More
than 130 nationalities live here and these diverse cultural
backgrounds are reected in its many festivals with foreign
roots like the Summer Festival, which is spread across ve
weekends in July and August, and the Southeast Jazz Fes-
tival in August. And despite its many modern skyscrapers,
Zuidoost, or de Bijlmer as the locals call it, can often feel like a
small village. It boasts several parks and green spaces includ-
ing the Gaasper Park, the crown jewel of them all. Its also a
fairly new area, its rst houses having been built as recent
as 1968. Recent development around Ajaxs stadium, the
Amsterdam Arena, has led to a cultural renaissance, not to
mention an economic boom. Amsterdams biggest shop-
ping centres and megastores are almost all located here and
the Heineken Music Hall and the brand new Ziggo Dome are
both state of the art concert halls attracting world renowned
talent from around the globe. Take in a concert, spend the
day shopping or just walk around and experience the diver-
sity of this vibrant area that most tourists never see.
ARRIVING IN ZUIDOOST
Zuidoost can be easily reached by metro, train or bus. The
easiest way to get here is to take a 20-minute metro ride
from the Central Station. Yellow line 54 begins at the Cen-
tral Station and ends at Gein, while green line 50 passes the
western part of the city and has the same destination. Red
line 53 follows the yellow line until Van der Madeweg and
then travels east until it reaches the Gaasperplas.
ACCOMMODATION
FLETCHER HOTEL AMSTERDAM
This huge hotel is so modern it looks like it belongs in a sci-
ence ction movie. To nd it just look for the shimmering
blue polka-dotted column rising up from the Schepen-
bergweg. But the futuristic theme doesnt end there as all
of the rooms also look like accommodation on the Starship
Enterprise, but much more luxurious. That said, the see-
through shower tube in the middle of the room might not
be to everyones liking or perhaps just the opposite. You
can also enjoy excellent food and drink on the top oors
of the building in either the Pi Sky Lounge or the Pi Sky
Bar.QU-2, Schepenbergweg 50, tel. (+31) 203 11 36 70,
www.fetcherhotelamsterdam.nl. 120 rooms (doubles
from 109). PHAFKW
HOSTELLE
Dont feel safe staying at a dingy backpackers hovel that
caters to stag parties or dodgy drifters? No problem. This
wonderful hostel designed by women for women oers
stylish accommodation for ladies whod like to avoid the
lesser representatives of the male species. Stylish private
rooms include ensuite facilities and amenities like sham-
poo and toiletries, while the dorms have in-room lockers
and a shelf next to each bunk bed. Each room has a dier-
ent theme so you can pretend that youre on the African
savannah or in a Chinese palace. Many rooms also include
balconies and a rooftop terrace is available.QU-2, Franke-
maheerd 2, tel. (+31) 207 70 35 04, www.hostelle.com.
(8-bed dorms from 19/person, 6-bed dorms from 21/
person, 4-bed dorms from 23, double rooms from
35). Breakfast: 5. AW
FOOD & DRINK
BAGELS & BEANS
This huge chain of Dutch bagel joints has taken the Neth-
erlands by storm and as much as wed like to poke fun at
this large food franchise we have to admit that, although
the bagels here wont top the warm New York bagels of
our youth, theyre probably the best weve had on this
continent. Naturally, a wide choice of coee, tea and juice
is also available as well as free wi-, so if youre in the
area then drop by, power up your iPad and enjoy a tasty
tuna melt bagel or something else from its large menu.
QV-1, Bijlmerplein 561 B, tel. (+31) 203 65 33 81, www.
bagelsbeans.nl. Open 08:02 - 18:03, Sat 09:01 - 17:32,
Sun 09:32 - 17:32. (4 - 7). ASW
EETCAFE 100% ZO
This gay-friendly restaurant/bar has been entertaining
patrons from the heart of the giant Amsterdamse Poort
shopping centre since 2009. Although shoppers often
seem lost in this massive commercial space, as soon as
you enter this cosy place youll feel right at home. Is it the
genuine smile of the friendly sta or perhaps their rather
sexy outts? Whatever the reason may be, you wont
regret staying for a bite of the abundant sandwiches or
the simple homemade meals. Since Zuidoost is known
for its multicultural vibe, it comes as no surprise that
the small menu also lists some tasty Surinamese pas-
tries.QBijlmerplein 367, tel. (+31) 206 91 25 93, www.
eetcafezuidoost.nl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 -
01:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (10 - 15).
AUEGBKXW
KING DONER
This restaurant seems to be a cut above the rest of the
streetside vendors and small kebab joints that litter this
area of town. Since 2004, the sta have made tasty kebabs
right in front of you before quickly sending you o pack-
ing. If you dont mind the plain atmosphere you can also
choose to relax and have a seat.QU-1, Bijlmerplein 561E,
tel. (+31) 206 96 60 00, www.kingdoner.nl. Open 10:00 -
21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
The Amsterdam ArenA in Zuidoost
Summer 2014 53 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Zuidoost
ICHI-E
Liberally translated, the Japanese saying Ichi-Go Ichi-E
means to enjoy the moment, which isnt really hard to do
in this trendy, modern place. Whatever section you choose,
the ground oor with its rotating bar, the rst oor with its
attractive tables or the top oor with the view and pleas-
ant outdoor terrace, youre guaranteed to have a great ex-
perience. The dcor is ultra trendy and although the dishes
are slightly overpriced and the sta are still in nappies, the
food is quite good. The real Japanese chefs (no foreign sub-
stitutes here) turn every sashimi and sushi dish into a small
feast for the senses.QU-1, Arena Boulevard 175, tel. (+31)
206 91 02 31, www.ichi-e.nl. Open 11:30 - 21:00. (13 - 18).
PZTAULGBKSW
LANGERLUST
This place deserves a pat on the back, if only because the
national ban on smoking is strictly adhered to here. And
few places in Amsterdam have better atmosphere than
this eatery located in the Gaasper Park nature reserve.
With views of a windmill and green surroundings, this
is one of the best cafs in Zuidoost. We recommend the
rustic burger or the Runderlende sandwich, a thick piece of
homemade bread lled with veal and aged cheese. The
salads and the shrimp kroketten are also reliable choices
and you can wash them down with a good house wine.
The view of the idyllic herb garden also makes it worth the
trip.QW-2, Provincialeweg 24, tel. (+31) 203 42 04 40,
www.langerlust.nl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
22:00. (9 - 15). iTHA6ULGBKXW
STARBUCKS
Four stools, six tables, a leather couch and a simple seating
area: thats all the dcor this Starbucks has to oer. And
of course a lot of good coee. However, if youd like to
sit outside, thats possible as well in this stations refresh-
ment room. Its also a good place for people not addicted
to caeine, as it has a wide selection of freshly squeezed
smoothies and spicy drinks like chai tea. If youre simply
looking for a snack, you could always gorge on some of
the many cakes and pastries in the display cases, but you
should avoid the seats near the front door on cold days,
unless youre Inuit.QU/V-1, Arena Boulevard 618, www.
starbucks.com. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -
18:00. ZTAULBSW
BIKE RENTAL
MARC BIKE SHOP
This bike shop next to the train station does it all. Since
2008 it has rented, sold, stored and repaired all kinds of bi-
cycles. The bikes are well-maintained and easy to ride and
they also come with a lock above the back tire. If you arent
familiar with these locks be sure to ask directions before
you pedal o into the sunset.QV-1, Hoekenrode 10A, tel.
(+31) 206 96 78 80, www.marcbikeshop.nl. Open 09:00
- 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. AL
SHOPPING
AMSTERDAMSE POORT
Over 230 shops are concentrated in this huge open-air
shopping centre. Partly covered, partly open you can
buy anything here from shoes and home furnishings to
childrens clothing or perhaps a new bike. A large num-
ber of food stores are also located at this massive mall
and over 9 million people visit Amsterdamse Poort each
year so they must be doing something right. Although it
can be easily reached by public transport, the area is sur-
rounded by huge parking garages with spaces for more
than 10,000 vehicles in case you have your own car. Dont
leave without visiting the Shopperhal. This covered mar-
ket resembles the multicultural society of this district best.
QV-1, Bijlmerplein, www.amsterdamsepoort.nl. Open
09:30 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. UL
MEDIA MARKT
This is probably the largest electronics shop in Amsterdam
and it also has some of the longest opening hours in the
city. Apart from all the necessary audio/visual equipment,
Media Markt also has a wide variety of beauty and well-
ness gadgets.QU-1, Arena Boulevard 123 - 125, tel. (+31)
205 64 16 16, www.mediamarkt.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00,
Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
TAUL
SIGHTSEEING
WORLD OF AJAX TOURS (AMSTERDAM ARENA)
If youre into football, a visit to the Arena, the hallowed
home of the players in red and white, might be a good
option. You can join a guided tour of the stadium in Zui-
doost five times each day after youve paid the 14.50
fee, which is, of course, much cheaper than a ticket to
an actual match. The tour lasts abut an hour and you
finish back where you started. It predictably ends at the
club shop where you can express your newly acquired
love for Ajax by purchasing lots of red and white sou-
venirs.QU-1, ArenA Boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11 13
36. Open 11:00 - 16:30 (except on event days). Ad-
mission: adults 14.50, children 5 - 12 years 9.50.
Take metro line 54 from the Central Station to the
Amsterdam Bijlmer Arena stop and then follow signs
to Main Entrance E.
Zuidoost is famous for its shopping opportunities
54 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Gay Amsterdam
Its hard to imagine a more gay and lesbian friendly travel
destination than Amsterdam. In 2001, the Netherlands be-
came the rst country in the world to ocially recognise
same-sex marriages. With four distinctive gay districts in
the city centre, rainbow ags on nearly every other street
and the annual Gay Pride celebration, Amsterdam is the
place to be for gays worldwide. Several areas form what
can be dubbed Amsterdams Gay Village. All areas are with-
in easy walking distance of one another. The prime area
is the Reguliersdwarsstraat (Gay Main Street) and prime
hunting ground for upmarket clubs and trendy restaurants.
Other areas include the Kerkstraat (near Leidsestraat) with
two gay hotels (The Golden Bear and Amistad) as well as
a kinky cruise club, Warmoesstraat in the Red Light district
(with cruise bars, a leather scene and a cinema) and the
Zeedijk (home to some cosy local cafs).
INFORMATION
GAY TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE (GAYTIC)
This place oers lots of information about everything
youd like or need to know about the gay scene in Am-
sterdam from night clubs and parties to local shops and
publications. You can also buy stu at its Gays&Gadgets
shop.QA-1, Spuistraat 44, tel. (+31) 203 30 14 61. Open
11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A
SAUNAS
THERMOS SAUNA
One of the biggest gay saunas in Europe, Thermos is a
legendary gay Amsterdam institution. Tourists, chubbies,
students and the occasional geriatric all mix in the laby-
rinth upstairs and the wet compartments on ground oor
that include a swimming pool, dry sauna, wet sauna and
whirlpool. The dcor is still very much stuck in the 1970s
and about as cosy as the interior of a nuclear power plant,
but most men seem to focus on other things, which ex-
plains the cruisy atmosphere, especially at the weekend.
An attached hair salon and beauty parlour is also available
for those in need and free condoms can be found at the
bar.QE-7, Raamstraat 33, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 58, ofce@
thermos.nl, www.thermos.nl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Ad-
mission: under 21 years 10, 22 - 25 years 14, and 26
and over 19. PJFNGBKXC
NIGHTLIFE
CAFE LELLEBEL
Just around the corner from busy Rembrandtplein youll
nd an alternative to the squares legendary nightlife,
which mostly consists of tourist pubs, techno clubs and
meat markets. This self-proclaimed drag show bar is
a cosy haunt that resembles a brown bar rather than a
cutting edge design bar so popular with the gay scene
these days. Transvestites, transgenders, lesbians and
gays have enjoyed its unique atmosphere since 1997 and
it always makes a good showing at the gay canal boat
parade each year and is the place to go for karaoke every
Tuesday night.QG-7, Utrechtsestraat 4, tel. (+31) 204
27 51 39, www.lellebel.nl. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
20:00 - 04:00. A
CAF ROUGE
Red like a cheap brothel, this unpretentious late night spot
attracts a diverse crowd willing to party and score. A live
DJ tries to please the crowd with a mixture of gay classics,
Eurovision and modern pop. The walls lled with photos
of Dutch and international royalty add to the campy at-
mosphere where anything can happen. Anything can
also mean nothing, but on weekends and special days like
Queens Day its a safe option for fun.QG-6, Amstel 60,
tel. (+31) 204 20 98 81, www.caferouge.nl. Open 16:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed. PJNG
CLUB CHURCH
This is Amsterdams ultimate cruising club with two oors
of play and dance areas that oer changing theme par-
ties and DJs every night. Free condoms throughout the
venue and lots of more serious kinky toys are available
for use including slings, private cabins and even a Saint
Andrews cross, which has nothing to do with heraldry
and everything to do with bondage. Yep, you can get it
as wild or rough as youd like it, but its probably not the
best place to have your rst gay experience and denitely
not an appropriate venue to have an after-work drink with
your straight business colleagues.QF-7, Kerkstraat 52,
www.clubchurch.nl. Open Tue, Wed 20:00 - 01:00, Thu
22:0004:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:0004:00.
Closed Mon. PJNGX
MONTMARTRE
Always packed at the weekend, Montmartre can be a
bit claustrophobic, but those who enjoy lots of bodily
contact and irting with the hot young boys in their
teens and twenties that come here are in for a real treat.
Cheesy pop and Eurovision make Montmartre a heaven
for all Dutch queens, so bring your attitude, get drunk,
croon with Sandra Kim and Kylie Minogue and dance the
night away. You can also use its happy hour from 18:00
- 20:00 to get in the mood.QB-3, Halvemaansteeg 17,
tel. (+31) 20 620 76 22, www.cafemontmartre.nl. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
PJNGX
Think pink when youre in Amsterdam
Summer 2014 55 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Gay Amsterdam
OLDEST GAY BAR
Although Amsterdam
is now one of the most
gay-friendly cities in the
world, it wasnt always
such a pillar of tolerance.
But one woman had an
incredible inuence on
the Dutch capital and
its residents. Bet van
Beeren was born in 1902
and spent her childhood
in the Jordaan district of
Amsterdam, before opening her legendary bar t Man-
dje, or The Basket, on the Zeedijk in 1927.
Although the establishment was hardly advertised as a
gay bar, it was a place where anyone - gay, straight, bi or
otherwise - could have a drink, provided they behaved
themselves. In those days the police could revoke a
bars license for promoting what we today would call
a gay lifestyle, so Bet kept a close watch on her patrons
making sure there werent any obvious displays of af-
fection between same-sex couples with perhaps the
exception of Queens Day (now Kings Day) a tradi-
tion that began after WWII. On this magical day pretty
much anything was possible and t Mandje gained a
reputation as the ultimate place to celebrate this Dutch
holiday. That said, Bet usually took an interest in her
patrons and if she observed anyone misbehaving, she
would penalise them by cutting o an article of cloth-
ing with a butchers knife, hence all of the ties nailed
to the ceiling.
As time passed, Bet became one of the chief attrac-
tions of her bar and thats hardly surprising given her
appearance and demeanour. An openly gay woman
who drank like a sh and smoked like chimney, she was
also known for her risqu wardrobe, which included a
leather motorcycle jacket. This naturally raised a few
eyebrows in her time. In the end, it was the drink that
eventually claimed her life. It was not uncommon for
her to knock back dozens of glasses of beer during a
typical day at the bar, but this was simply part of her
lifestyle and she enjoyed herself immensely while gain-
ing the respect of her patrons and neighbours who
often called her the Queen of the Zeedijk. When she
passed away in 1967, she was laid out on the billiard ta-
ble of the bar where 30,000 people paid their respects
to her over the course of two days.
The bar nally closed its doors in 1983, but Bets niece,
Diana van Laar, re-opened the bar with the help of her
husband in 2008. Caf t Mandje B-1, Zeedijk 63,
tel. (+31) 206 22 53 75, www.cafetmandje.nl. Open
15:00 - 01:00, Tue 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00,
Sun 14:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon.
PRIK
Prik, a relaxed and cosy caf near Dam Square, is the ideal
place to meet your friends, or even your grandmother,
and have a drink to start the night o. Prosecco on tap,
sexy cocktails, tasty nger food a live DJ and a good
vibe will probably make you linger around longer than
you might have planned. It was voted several times as
the best gay bar in town and we can certainly see why.
Prik rocks!QA-2, Spuistraat 109, tel. (+31) 203 20 00 02,
www.prikamsterdam.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 03:00. PJNGB
REALITY
Reality is a tropical-style ethnic bar. Customers tend to hail
from exotic locales such as Suriname, the Carribbean and
other hot destinations, so its a bit alternative compared to the
other places on Gay Main Street. Great music like salsa, meren-
gue and calypso is also available for those who are fed up with
the regular gay bubblegum. This might also be the place to
see if the stereotypes about dark-skinned men and their toys
are just a myth.QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 129, tel. (+31)
206 39 30 12, www.barreality.freehomepage.com. Open
20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PJNG
TABOO
This bar boasts two big screens showing cheesy music
videos, hot bartenders who are actually friendly and at-
tentive and a comfy smoking room on the rst oor
which seems to be a winning combination especially
on a street that needed a breath of fresh air. Two happy
hours a day (from 18:00 - 19:00 and 24:00 - 01:00) has also
helped to build up a steady and happy clientile. Sundays
oer a double happy hour from 18:00 until 20.00!QB-3,
Reguliersdwarsstraat 45, tel. (+31) 207 75 39 63, www.
taboobar.nl. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00,
Sun 16:00 - 03:00. PJNGBX
THE QUEENS HEAD
At the head of the Zeedijk the Queens Head is an old time
gay favourite with a loyal clientele. Friendly bar sta, chan-
deliers, drag nights and hilarious bingo nights on Thurs-
days are all major draws. Downstairs a cosy backroom with
a romantic canal view is also available and live DJs spin
music at the weekend. In short, its a lovely place to actu-
ally meet other people.QB-1, Zeedijk 20, tel. (+31) 204 20
24 75, www.queenshead.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PJNGBX
VIVELAVIE
An institution in the Amsterdam gay-scene, this lesbian
bar has been around for more than 30 years and is still alive
and kicking! It has an unpretentious and cosy atmosphere
with old Hollywood posters on the wall. Ladies meet their
friends, talk, read, eat, sip their cocktails and dance in the
late hours in this Art Deco-style space. The menu oers
tapas, tosties and other nger food and the music varies
from lounge to gay classics. QB-3, Amstelstraat 7, tel.
(+31) 206 24 01 14, www.vivelavie.net. Open 12:00 -
03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PJNGBX
56 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Coffeeshops
SYMBOL KEY
A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning
O Casino T Child-friendly
U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace
V Home delivery E Live music
B Outside seating X Smoking section
S Takeaway W Wi
HIGHER EDUCATION
For everyone with an
interest in cannabis or
questions about can-
nabis, the Cannabis Col-
lege is a must-visit. Not
only can you learn about
the risks and benets of
cannabis, the sta at the information centre will gladly
advise you where to buy good weed and which cof-
feeshops you should avoid. Cannabis College is a non-
prot organisation aimed at educating the public about
cannabis in an unbiased, scientically backed, manner.
Their library is a gold mine of information about can-
nabis, particularly if youd like to learn about the plants
medical potential. Cannabis College also provides
training for sta members of several coeeshops and,
believe it or not, they have even trained Dutch police
ocers! All the information is free,
as well as a visit to the small, labo-
ratory-like garden downstairs. The
worlds only college of cannabis
education is located in the heart
of the Red Light district at B-2, Ou-
dezijds Achterburgwal 124, www.
cannabiscollege.com.
Whether you smoke the herb or not, coeeshops in Am-
sterdam are a tourist attraction by themselves. Choose
the right one and it'll be an experience you'll never forget.
Choose the wrong one and you you'll probably forget that
you were in Amsterdam altogether. There are many dif-
ferent types of coeeshops, for dierent kinds of people.
Some look more like nightclubs, others like Tibetan mon-
asteries (once you're stoned) and others like super-modern
cafs. And in the summer, many have outside seating,
sometimes near the canal.
Coeeshops in Amsterdam have a particularly long
history (Mellow Yellow was the rst one in 1973), even
during times of cannabis prohibition. The idea has been
imitated across much of Europe, as well as the Americas,
proof enough that the system works (for the 'evil' criminal
gangs anyway).
Given the city's status as a major shipping hub and its
maze of canals, it's not hard to imagine how drug track-
ing in this city was an attractive option. Coeeshops could
easily be supplied straight from shipping containers via the
many canals on small boats, and even emptied in the same
manner should the authorities decide to pay a visit. Today,
they are mostly supplied by car, a much less romantic op-
tion.
After extensive wandering around, a list of dozens of
coeeshops not to be missed during your stay is provided
here. They are selected from across the city, so that you're
never at any point far away from one of these exceptional
Dutch institutions.
COFFEESHOPS
Although the Netherlands was once known as a safe
haven for people who enjoy the herb, conservative
politics and a national law have sent many a foreign
toker looking for less turbulent shores to have a joint.
The law states that only residents of Holland may buy
and smoke soft drugs like marijuana and hash at cof-
feeshops. Although more strictly enforced in other
areas of the country, the wise and commerce driven
Amsterdammers have done what they usually do when
they dont like a law. For the most part, the city and
the police have turned a blind eye to the law fearing
a catastrophic loss of tourism euros. Obviously, when
in doubt just ask the staf at a cofeeshop and hope for
the best.
ABRAXAS
Down a side-street o one of the main boulevards in
Amsterdam Centrum, youll nd this surprisingly cosy
medium-size coeeshop spread over several narrow
oors. With extensive mosaics and elaborate dcor, it
includes large comfortable banquettes and pleasantly
mellow lighting aided by candles on every table. Well
organised and ecient sta make this an attractive op-
tion for a relaxed (but brief ) break while touring the citys
many delights. Longer stays at this coeeshop will per-
mit you a view of the souvenir shop as well as a comfort-
able smoking session.QA-2, Jonge Roelensteeg 12 - 14,
abraxas@abraxas.tv, www.abraxas.tv. Open 10:00 -
01:00. J
AMNESIA
The rst thing to be said about this coeeshop is that its
part of a chain which has received many Cannabis Cup
Awards and therefore should be on the map for any con-
noisseur. Even if youre just eager to sit down in pleasant
surroundings, this is a good option. With a view of the ca-
nal, down a quiet side street, this establishment boasts a
pleasant dcor of purple swirls and gold and black as well
as equally pleasant and ecient sta. A choice of games
and vaporizers will ensure your time at this coeeshop is
well spent, and outside seating in the summer makes this
a prime summer coeeshop.QE-5, Herengracht 133, tel.
(+31) 204 27 78 74. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
Summer 2014 57 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Coffeeshops
EMBRACING THE HAZE
When experimenting with soft drugs in Amsterdam
one should also bear in mind that there are usually two
types of weed sold; haze, which has high THC content
and creates a strong stoned or high feeling; and non-
haze which has a somewhat milder eect. The price
dierence may sometimes be quite substantial be-
tween these two types, as haze weed plants (usually
strong sativas - for those in the know) are bigger and
harder to grow properly than non-haze plants (usually
strong indicas). If youre a non-regular smoker, or even a
regular hashish smoker, start with non-haze to get your
bearings and then perhaps try a haze joint to see how
you feel. For regular (weed) smokers (close to daily con-
sumption), haze weed will show you how truly stoned
you can get, but beware as some types may stick you
to your chair and you may drool (well, maybe not the
second part). Just remember to have fun!
BARNEYS
This coeeshop review is more about the three establish-
ments which are part of Barneys coeeshop empire and all
located on Haarlemmerstraat within close walking distance
of each other. One venue is a coeeshop, the other is a bar/
restaurant and the nal one is a souvenir shop/bar and
smoke-room, meaning that in between these three places,
you can smoke drink and eat to your hearts content in an at-
tractive environment with a pleasant dcor. Popular partic-
ularly with tourists, it provides its customers with arguably
one of the best choices in life; get high and eat, get high and
drink, or get high and have a coee. And to get high with
a bong or a vaporizer? So many wonderful choices to be
made here, but once your desires have been met, it is always
good to remember that the souvenir shop will provide you
with numerous ways to annoy your boss/ mother-in-law/
lecturer/ law enforcement agency (delete where appropri-
ate).QD-3, Haarlemmerstraat 105, tel. (+31) 204 27 94 69,
www.barneys.biz. Open 07:30 - 01:00. P
BULLDOG NO. 90
Arguably the rst ever coeeshop in Amsterdam, this es-
tablishment combines cannabis history and getting high
with an excellent central location. With seating overlook-
ing the canal on the inside and seating on the edge of the
canal outside, this coeeshop is an ideal place any time of
year. The dcor of memorabilia like old photos, newspaper
articles and the orange (youll understand once you get
here) tells the story of this venerated establishment, which
gives o a pub-like atmosphere. Computers with internet
access are available (for a fee) for any last-minute travel ar-
rangements or any web addicts and the sta are friendly
and helpful. Finally, the herb purchasing area is seperate
from the drinks area. A small, but important detail when
you want to get your smoke on in a hurry.QB-2, Ou-
dezijds Voorburgwal 90, tel. (+31) 206 25 98 64, www.
thebulldog.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. JB
DOLPHINS
You wont nd a place like this anywhere in Amsterdam
or any other place on the planet for that matter. With an
overwhelming marine theme and the friendly dolphin as
your guide you can make a selection from the aordable
and obviously placed menu, sit down at one of the many
high quality vaporizers and just do your thing. The con-
stant bubbling and of course your choice of herb will make
you feel as if submerged in another world. If inhaling at a
stool isnt your thing, there are large sofas to sink into and
the friendly sta can ensure all your needs are met down
here underwater, although you may have to swim to the
surface (or the bar) to get served.QF-7, Kerkstraat 39, tel.
(+31) 206 25 91 62. Open 10:00 - 01:00. GBXW
EASY TIMES
With more then 40 wonderful choices on weed and hash,
this is smokers paradise. If you prefer a bong or vaporizer
to reach a trippy experience, settle down in the Arabian
style room in the back. A shining red carpet, in normal life
only to be walked on by VIPs or other arrogant twats, leads
the way to this Walhalla on Earth. And if you got problems
getting high, just watch one of the four giant plasma
screens where CNN, BBC and all those other news stations
keep on broadcasting in what fucked up world we live in.
Funny and handy souvenirs like a pink glass elephant ash-
tray (were not kidding) can be purchased from the small
booth at the entrance.QPrinsengracht 476, tel. (+31) 206
26 57 09,. Open 09:00 - 01:00. JNXSW
58 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Coffeeshops
FUNNY PEOPLE
This coeeshop is a bit dark and on the small side, but the
candles, comfy seating and cushions all ensure a relatively
cosy experience and its located near the train station. The
dcor has no particular theme, but is still pleasing to the
eye even before a smoke. A TV and some board games are
available as well as a few snacks. A good choice to get a
quick high while waiting for a train or hotel check-in.QB-
1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 24, tel. (+31) 206 23 86 63. Open
08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. JGX
LA TERTULIA
Open since 1983, one of the oldest coeeshops in Amster-
dam is also one of the most appealing and original. Apart
from the relatively ordinary weed menu, the environment
which the friendly mother and daughter create here, in-
cludes extensive detailed artwork on the outside as well
as the inside, providing trippy experiences at every corner.
The selection of drinks and inexpensive sandwiches and
toasties is more extensive than in most coeeshops in
Amsterdam and the many plants, as well as the multiple
levels and patio furniture make one feel as if they were
picnicking in a garden. The outside seating next to the
canal in a quiet area of the city makes for a relaxed break
while wandering the beautiful surroundings. Dont leave
without taken at least one bite from their delicious home-
made weed brownies!QE-6, Prinsengracht 312, tel. (+31)
206 23 85 03, www.cofeeshopamsterdam.com. Open
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. B
LION OF JUDAH (BUSHMAN)
Beware! If you cant relate to the Rastafarian way of life,
you may not enjoy this coeeshop. If, however, youd like
to embrace your inner Marley, then by all means pay a visit
to Lion of Judah. The reggae music and black history d-
cor as well as the real Rastafarian (or so it appears) serving
you behind the bar will certainly help you to get closer to
Jah with rather normal legal and de-criminalised products
on oer here, mon.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 47, tel.
(+31) 206 24 27 23. Open 12:00 - 01:00.
MAGIC
This charming North African-style coeeshop boasts
computers with internet access and a pool table, along
with other games, as well as large comfortable seating ar-
eas. The Moroccan tea will make you even more relaxed if
you decide to spark up, particularly after the scenic walk to
get to here. Far away from the main tourist areas you may
nd that this place is more appropriate when not alone.
QA-3, Herengracht 287, tel. (+31) 206 13 95 96. Open
10:00 - 01:00.
NOON
Colourful, detailed dcor and comfortable seating make
this an ideal coeeshop for relaxation. Stare at the murals,
chat with locals or try the vaporizer while sitting at one
of its large tables. There are internet-connected PCs, a TV
and even a bicycle pump last time we checked, as well as
the usual smoking paraphernalia. Its a good stop before a
night of partying on Leidseplein.QF-8, Zieseniskade 22,
tel. (+31) 206 23 02 22.
Just look for coeeshop signs to begin your journey
IN YOUR POCKET MOBILE
In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones
via our responsive mobile platform, found at
m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities
across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable
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In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a
city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest
to your current location. Smart lters can be used to
ensure that only those places which matter to you are
displayed. You can also leave comments about venues,
as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You
can even share your comments with your friends via
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Summer 2014 59 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Coffeeshops
PARADOX
Amsterdam used to boast over 1,000 coeeshops, but
these days only a quarter of these remain, including Para-
dox in the heart of the Jordaan, which has served as a ha-
ven for local smokers since 1991. Most tourists never set
foot in this quiet place, even though its more than worth
a detour. Its walls are regularly decorated by promising
young grati artists and the best works will make you feel
like youre hallucinating even when youre not stoned.QD-
7, 1e Bloemdwarsstraat, tel. (+31) 206 23 56 39, www.
paradoxcofeeshop.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. JNX
RESIN
Fairly spacious with a particularly original and green inte-
rior, this coeeshop may provide a some pleasant respite
during a visit to Amsterdam. Reecting the theme of the
famous Red Light District, a keen eye may be able to dis-
cern sex swings, but dont worry. Other seating is available
in the form of sofa benches lining the wall. There are TV
screens to catch your gaze and music with an electronic
edge drones on in the background. The sta here arent
particularly friendly, but then again thats fairly typical of
Amsterdam coeeshops where the stoned customer is
rarely king.QA-1, Hekelveld 7, tel. (+31) 204 22 98 38.
ROKERIJ IV
The latest addition to the Rokerij chain, this coeeshop can
be found in the scenic Jordaan district. Featuring coloured
candles, wooden tables, cushion seating and a pleasant
interior adorned with both Tibetan and Moroccan details,
this coeeshop could be the ideal place to play a game or
two while making use of some of the bongs provided. The
herbal menu here is exceptional and includes cannabis cup
varieties and a good selection of drinks like fresh OJ.QE-7,
Elandsgracht 53, tel. (+31) 206 23 09 38, www.rokerij.org.
RUSLAND
Rusland provides a pleasant break from the coeeshop
norm, although to no extreme extent. The extensive
choice of 40 teas provides a world of fragrances to com-
plement the other pungent herbs you can purchase here.
A successful but original mix of Russian and Moroccan
dcor, a common cushioned seating area complete with
a view onto the street and a friendly cat make this place
an excellent environment in which to relax alone or with
friends.QB-2, Rusland 16, tel. (+31) 206 27 94 68.
SIBERIE
Visit this coeeshop on a Friday or Saturday and youll be
able to enjoy some live DJing with your smoke in a cosy at-
mosphere. Candles, art work, owers on the tables as well
as good music all contribute to the success of this con-
verted garage. Some food is available, games are provided
and the large wooden tables give all the space necessary
to enjoy your time here without inconveniencing other
patrons. Unlike its Russian namesake, its located in the ur-
ban centre of the city.QA-1, Brouwersgracht 11, tel. (+31)
206 23 59 09, www.cofeeshopsiberie.nl. Open 11:00 -
23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PEGXW
SMART & HEAD SHOPS
AMSTERDAM SEED CENTER
Why buy untested and unproven weed when you can just
buy seeds that have already been awarded the prestigious
Cannabis Cup? If you live in Holland or another European
country where its legal to import cannabis seeds you can
ask the knowledgeable sta here everything there is to
know about cultivating this amazing plant. The shop also
sells books about growing cannabis and t-shirts made
from hemp. Seeds can be ordered online and sent to your
home if you live in the EU.QA-2, Gravenstraat 12, tel.
(+31) 207 37 00 60, www.amsterdamseedcenter.com.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 19:00. Bag of
3 seeds 20 - 30. JA
SENSI SEEDS
Sensi Seeds has been developing cannabis seeds for over
25 years and thanks to shops like this, growing your own
cannabis plant has never been easier. First-time growers
can nd several stable feminised seeds that grow in nearly
any climate, while experienced horticulturist can choose
special sativas and indicas. The sta can help you choose
the most suitable seeds, advise you on how to grow the
plant and inform you about any possible legal issues.
Seeds can also be bought online, but shipment is prohib-
ited to most countries outside the EU (the only exceptions
being Switzerland, Serbia and Guyana).QB-2, Oude Doel-
enstraat 20, tel. (+31) 206 26 29 88, www.sensiseeds.
com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Also at A-1, Nieuwendijk 26.
B u y O r i g i n a l ,
G e t t h e B e s t
60 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Lifestyle Directory
Need to wash some clothes while you check your e-mail
or nd a doctor to bandage a sprained ankle? Looking for
a place to entertain your children or maybe a pharmacy to
keep your hangover in check? Youll nd the answers here.
BICYCLE REPAIR
HET ZWARTE FIETSENPLAN
Looking for replacement parts for your bike? Crashed into
a car and need repairs? These guys will sort you out.QF-8,
Lijnbaansgracht 282 - 283, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31. Open
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. A
BOWLING
LOVERS POWERZONE
Take advantage of six modern bowling lanes or challenge
your friends to a game of laser tag.QG-4, De Ruyterkade
153, tel. (+31) 207 60 76 00, www.loverspowerzone.nl.
Open 16:00 - 22:00, Wed 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 15:00 - 01:00,
Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Bowling: 22.50 -
27.50/hour, Laser tag: 9 - 16. TJG
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
GWK TRAVELEX
If you plan on exchanging money, banks oer the best
exchange rates and a smaller commission, but the GWK is
the most convenient if youre heading to the train station.
.QF-3, Stationsplein (Central Station), tel. (+31) 206 27
27 31, www.travelex.com/nl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. Also at A-2, Dam 23 - 25; A-2, Damrak 86;
A-1, Damrak 1 - 5; Kalverstraat 150; F-8, Leidseplein 31A;
and F-7, Leidsestraat 103; Anton de Komplein 4 - 10.
DENTISTS
TANDARTSEN AAN DE HERENGRACHT
QF-6, Herengracht 318, tel. (+31) 207 51 27 17, info@
tadh.nl, www.tadh.nl. Open Mon, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 20:00,
Tue, Wed 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
DOCTORS
EXPAT MEDICAL CENTRE
The English-speaking doctors here oer medical atten-
tion, physiotherapy and even psychotherapy and they
accept EU health cards, too!QD-6, Bloemgracht 112,
tel. (+31) 204 27 50 11, www.expatmc.net. Open 09:00
- 18:00. Saturdays and Sundays by appointment only.
HAIRDRESSERS & BARBERS
HEAD 2 HEAD
This is a barber shop for real men where electric shavers
are used more often than scissors. A haircut will set you
back about 15.QO-2, Eerste van Swindenstraat 46-D,
tel. (+31) 206 92 73 78.
KINKI KAPPERS
Youll feel like a fashion model at this trendy hair salon.
QD-3, Haarlemmerdijk 17, tel. (+31) 206 25 60 00, info@
kinki.nl, www.kinki.nl. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 -
21:00. Closed Sun.
LAUNDRIES & DRY CLEANERS
KALVER KLEDINGREPARATIE & STOMERIJ
Dry cleaning services as well as clothing repair.QA-3,
Voetboogstraat 29-a, tel. (+31) 206 38 78 00. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
LAUNDRY & THINGS
Self-serve washing machines starting at as low as 3 per
load.QA-1, Warmoesstraat 30, tel. (+31) 614 03 28 03.
Open 08:00 - 22:00.
WASH & COFFEE
Just like the name says.QG-9/10, Quellijnstraat 90, tel.
(+31) 204 70 36 79, www.wash-cofee.nl. Open 07:30 -
18:30. Closed Tue.
WASSALON LAUNDRY
Wash it yourself or drop it o and itll be ready in a few
hours.QG-9, Frans Halssatraat 83, tel. (+31) 643 58 32
09. Open 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
MASSAGE
CHINA BEAUTY MASSAGE CENTER
A full body massage, a pedicure or a foot massage cost
35 for one hour. A 30-minute foot massage, which in-
cludes a head, neck and shoulder massage, costs 20.
QA-2, Paleisstraat 19, tel. (+31) 204 21 21 21, www.
chinesemassageamsterdam.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
DOCTOR FEEL GOOD
Although the owner of this fancy joint proudly presents
her years of experience on her website where she worked
with bands and celebrities all over the world, normal hu-
man beings are also welcome at this modern place. Bring
plenty of cash though.QScheldestraat 16, tel. (+31) 206
20 15 70, www.doctorfeelgood.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Also at K-5, Czaar
Peterstraat 108. JALw
Den Waag: one of the citys remaining medieval gates
Summer 2014 61 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Lifestyle Directory
PHARMACIES
DA APOTHEEK LEIDSESTRAAT
The pharmacy can be reached during the day via the
entrance of the DA-drugstore at Leidsestraat around
the corner.QF-7, Leidsestraat 74 - 76, tel. (+31) 204
22 02 10, apotheekleidsestraat@ezorg.nl, www.da-
apotheekleidsestraat.apotheek.org. Open 09:00 -
21:50. Closed Sat, Sun.
WITTOP KONING KRING-APOTHEEK
A small pharmacy on Overtoom.QS-4, Overtoom 81,
tel. (+31) 206 16 36 10, www.wittopkoning.com. Open
08:30 - 17:30, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
SPAS & BEAUTY
SAUNA DECO
The beautiful interior of this mixed sex Art Deco sauna was
rescued from demolition and lovingly restored. Facilities in-
clude sauna, Turkish steam bath, chill out areas, beauty treat-
ments, massage, solarium, tness centre, caf and an outside
relaxation area.QE-5, Herengracht 115, tel. (+31) 206 23 82
15, www.saunadeco.nl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Tue 15:00 -
23:00, Sun 13:00 - 10:00. Admission: 21. AKw
SPA AMSTERDAM ZUIVER
This exclusive spa located in the Amsterdam Forest pro-
vides a wide variety of pools, hot tubs, saunas, hamams
and lounge areas both inside the complex and outside as
well. Naturally, a range of massages, beauty treatments
and wellness procedures are also on oer.QN-5, Koenen-
kade 8 (Amsterdamse Bos), tel. (+31) 203 01 07 10, info@
spazuiver.nl, www.spazuiver.nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. ADw
SPORTS
FUN FOREST CLIMBING PARK
This climbing park has eight dierent courses of varying
heights and levels of diculty located in trees. The park
is almost always open except during strong winds, thun-
derstorms or heavy rain.QBosbaanweg 3, Amstelveen,
tel. (+31) 206 42 96 83, amsterdam@funforest.nl, www.
funforest.nl. Open April - October 10:00 - 19:00. Admis-
sion: 12.50 - 21.50.
SWIMMING POOLS
HET MARNIX
Despites its small size, Het Marnix boasts two swimming
pools, a spa, a health club and a restaurant.QD-5, Mar-
nixplein 1, tel. (+31) 205 24 60 00, www.hetmarnix.nl.
ABK
SLOTERPARKBAD
During certain hours of the day this swimming pool opens
it doors to the public for recreational purposes.QM-2,
President Allendelaan 3, tel. (+31) 205 06 35 06, fax
(+31) 205 06 35 07, www.sloterparkbad.nl.
SPORTPLAZA MERCATOR
A huge swimming pool, tness centre and gym.QR-3,
Jan van Galenstraat 315, tel. (+31) 206 18 89 11, www.
sportfondsen.nl. Open 13:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 18:00. Also at Fronemanstraat 3, tel. (+31) 206 65 08
11. A
TATTOOS & PIERCING
DERMADONNA CUSTOM TATTOOS
Get a tattoo from real experts.QB-2, Kloveniersburg-
wal 34, tel. (+31) 207 73 66 14/(+31) 611 28 47 39, www.
dermadonna.nl. Open 12:00 - 20:00.
HANKY PANKY TATTOOING
Tattoos in the Red Light district.QB-2, Oudezijds-
voorburgwal 141, tel. (+31) 206 27 48 48, www.
hankypankytattoo.nl. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Statue of Rembrandt on the square that bears his name
LOOOKING UP TO THE DUTCH
Spend some time in the Netherlands and youll start
looking up to the Dutch. Is it their tolerant attitudes?
Their excellent command of the English language?
Or perhaps their land reclamation skills? Simply put,
most people look up to the Dutch because theyre in-
credibly tall. With an average male height of just over
187cm (61), the Dutch are the tallest people on the
planet. When one considers that this is merely the av-
erage height and that many local men are much taller
than 187cm, one begins to wonder if Goliath isnt a
Dutch word. But anyone whos seen a typical 17th-
century Amsterdam building and its tiny dollhouse
doors will realise that this is a more recent trend. In
fact, most experts believe that great health care, a
relatively even wealth distribution among citizens
and a national obsession with dairy products have
transformed the Dutch from vertically challenged me-
dieval men into the giants you see now. The govern-
ment has even changed its building codes to accom-
modate its growing population, but this might be for
naught as a recent study seems to suggest that Dutch
height increases have plateaued. For now, youll just
have to be prudent and give them a wide berth or
perhaps get closer to them in the summer and use
them for shade.
62 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Amsterdam for Kids
Although we wouldnt recommend a stroll with the kids
around the Red Light district, except perhaps as a caution-
ary tale, Amsterdam does have plenty of options for the lit-
tle ones. Here are some of the best.
KIDS STUFF
BALLORIG
This enormous space is lled with long rows of tables like a
German beer hall and at each table youll nd a few young
mothers and here and there a granny or two. Ballorig is
actually a huge childrens playground at the edge of the
Gaasterplas in the Zuidoost district.QW-2, Valburgdreef
1001, tel. (+31) 204 00 01 01, www.ballorig.nl. Open
10:00 - 19:00. Admission: adults free, children 7.
PTULNBKW
BOUNZ
What used to be a classroom for PE teachers in train-
ing has now been transformed into a large trampoline
centre. Young and old enjoy jumping, back ipping
and opping on 32 connected trampolines. Its a lot of
fun, but if youre over the age of 30, muscle aches are
guaranteed!QM-2, Willinklaan 3-5, tel. (+31) 206 11 44
81, info@bounzsport.nl, www.bounzsport.nl. Open
13:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Ad-
mission: 5.50/hour. TLN
BOUWSPEELPLAATS T LANDJE
Believe or not, but dads arent allowed in this childrens
paradise. The management decided that their adult male
presence was just too stern and would prevent kids from
being, well, kids. t Landje, which is located on a penin-
sula in Rembrandt Park, oers arts and crafts classes and
other activities for children.QN-3, Rembrandtpark, tel.
(+31) 206 18 36 04, imuls@impuls.nl, www.impuls.nl.
Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
TIBC
DE ONTDEKHOEK
Children from the ages of 4 to 14 can have a blast at the
inventors workshop, experimenting, testing and discover-
ing new things. More than 30 experiments are are at you
disposal such as miniature bricklaying, making chips and
making and playing street organ music.QN-2, Burge-
meester Rellstraat 145, tel. (+31) 204 11 68 46, www.
ontdekhoek.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission: adults 8, children 10. T
DE PIJP PETTING ZOO (KINDERBOERDERIJ DE
PIJP)
This petting zoo has been entertaining children in De Pijp
since 1983 and is home to an amazing 50 dierent species
of animals from goldsh and rodents to turtles and ducks.
The usual ponies, donkeys, pigs, rabbits, goats and sheep
are also on hand.QH-10, Lizzy Ansinghstraat 82, tel.
(+31) 206 64 83 03, kinderboerderijdepijp@wanadoo.
nl, www.kinderboerderijdepijp.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. T
RACE PLANET AMSTERDAM
This is the largest go-kart centre in the Netherlands with
two indoor race tracks, a so-called wall-of-death, bowling,
miniature golf, a game zone and a indoor playground.QH-
erwijk 10, tel. (+31) 206 11 11 20, www.raceplanet.com.
Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Admission:
15.75 for a 12-minute race. TAL
SCIENCE CENTER NEMO
Look for the big green building jutting out into the water
to nd this fun science centre that will make you wish you
were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and
unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels
where visitors can learn about science without the boring
textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, gener-
ate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can
also see how fuel engines work or touch a real, 4.65 billion-
year-old meteorite; discover why teenagers look, feel and
act the way they do; see how our daily lives will change
in the future with new and advanced technologies; and
lots of other interesting stu. You can also bring your own
lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or buy some food on the
top oor terrace caf that oers a great view of the city. A
good museum shop is also available where you can buy
science experiments and other fun souvenirs for kids.QH-
4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33, info@e-NEMO.
nl, www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon.
Admission: 15, children under four free. AK
TUNFUN SPEELPARK
In what looks like a disused underground metro station
near the Portuguese Synagogue lies Tun Fun, a childrens
paradise. If you cant nd it just follow the steady stream of
families, childrens parties and school excursions into the
depth of this enormous playground that includes slides,
climbing labyrinths, painting workshops, trampolines
and other atrractions. The screams of the children can
be a bit overwhelming at times but internet access and
cans of beer at the caf help keep the cacaphony of pre-
pubescant chatter at bay. Adults are only admitted with
children and only have to pay an entrance fee for their kids.
QH-5, Mr. Visserplein 7, tel. (+31) 206 89 43 00, www.
tunfun.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: kids 7.50,
adults free. KW
Science Center NEMO is fun for all ages DigiDaan
Summer 2014 63 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Dutch Highlights & Day Trips
If youre looking for a short day trip from Amsterdam or per-
haps a journey farther aeld, we have a few suggestions.
Alkmaar Kaasmarkt (Cheese Market)
Yes, it's true. Hoorn, Gouda, Woerden and Edam have
them, too, but if you'd like to see Holland's most renowned
cheese market, you have to go to Alkmaar. Every Friday
huge wheels of cheese are carried around and weighed
on the old town market, which is quite the sight. The mar-
ket is held every Friday 10:00 - 12:30 from April to the Be-
ginning of September. Trains depart from Amsterdam for
Alkmaar four times every hour.
Delft
Yes, there's also an Oude Kerk (Old Church), but the Nieuwe
Kerk is where all the deceased members of the Dutch royal
family are buried. Even legendary William of Orange rests
here for all eternity. It's quite impressive and a must-see if
you're in Delft as is the Royal Delft factory tour. See how
Holland's most famous blue porcelain has been made for
centuries (www.royaldelft.com).
Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem)
Sick of the same museums around Museumplein in Am-
sterdam? The Frans Hals Museum in Haarlem displays an
amazing collection of paintings by Dutch old masters and
is the museum to visit if you appreciate Dutch Golden Age
art. Haarlem is close to Amsterdam and trains run frequent-
ly between the two cities.
Keukenhof
You can't really escape it. Flowers are a part of Dutch cul-
ture. Tulips, which were actually originally imported (smug-
gled) from Turkey, are a national symbol of Holland and the
Keukenhof is the place to see them 'in the wild' once the
season starts in early spring. The huge gardens are only
open to the public for two months each year so visit www.
keukenhof.nl for more information. You can usually arrange
a trip at your hotel reception.
Museum De Lakenhal (Leiden)
Come here for an incredible museum full of artefacts from
the masters of the Golden Age. The old centre of Leiden is
also beautiful and worth a look. The city is about a 40-min-
ute train ride from Amsterdam.
Rotterdam
It's a hate-hate relationship between Amsterdam and 'the
other Dam'. There are plenty of reasons why these two cities
are so competitive. Schiphol is one of the busiest airports in
the world, while Rotterdam is home to the world's busiest
harbour. Football champions Ajax have been sparring with
Feyenoord for decades and while Amsterdam lives on its
charming medieval buildings, Rotterdam was completely
rebuilt after it was nearly levelled by bombs in WWII. If
you're tired of touristy Amsterdam and crave the sight of
a large city with a modern skyline, then Rotterdam is the
only option in the Netherlands. Take the high speed Fyra
train from Amsterdam to Rotterdam in only 41 minutes.
Sint Janskerk (Maastricht)
If you really want to travel as far from the city as possible
without leaving the country then take a train all the way
to the hilly south of the country where you can witness the
pretty sights of Maastricht among its beer-loving residents.
The reddish Gothic Sint Janskerk is the city's main highlight,
but there are loads of other things to see like Roman forts
(Fort Sint Pieter) and busy squares full of cafs.
Utrecht
If you can't get enough of the cute bunny drawings of Dick
Bruna, the Mify (Nijntje) Museum in Utrecht is the place
to go. If not, you'll almost certainly be annoyed by the small
children and the ocks of Japanese tourists here. The city
is also famous for its Roman beginnings, its incredibly tall
church spire and its unique wharf cellars. Trains to Utrecht
depart Amsterdam frequently.
Volendam
The place where all the great Dutch singers are born, Volen-
dam is basically a town of shermen and boatloads of tour-
ists wanting a taste of 'real' Dutch culture. You can dress up
in traditional costumes here or wander about its beautiful
streets. Take bus No.116 from the Central Station to Volen-
dam. The trip takes about 30 minutes.
Zaanse Schans (Zaandam)
But where are all the windmills? If you've asked this ques-
tion in Amsterdam, you're not the only one. In fact, Amster-
dam doesn't have that many and you won't nd any in the
centre of town. We recommend a trip to Zaanse Schans,
where you'll have plenty of opportunities to spot one of
Holland's most endearing symbols. You'll have to deal with
crowds though as the well-preserved windmills and tra-
ditional houses here attract almost a million visitors every
year. Connexxion bus No.391 departs from the Amsterdam
Central Station every hour during the day. The trip takes
about 40 minutes. You can also take a train to Koog-Zaandi-
jk station and then walk 15 minutes to Zaanse Schans.
Haarlem is home to beautiful architecture as well as a great museum
64 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Zandvoort
Relax on Zandvoorts legendary beach
Sometimes theres nothing better than replacing the hus-
tle and bustle of a large city with the peace and tranquility
of the seaside. Zandvoort is not only the closest North Sea
beach to Amsterdam, but its also one of Hollands most
beloved summer resorts. The view of the North Sea will
never disappoint and the fact that the beach at Zandvoort
is one of the safest and cleanest in the country only adds
to its popularity. But the beach isnt the only reason why
people come here in droves.The town exudes a cosiness
and a laid-back atmosphere that cant be beat, while the in-
spiring landscapes of the dunes at the Zuid-Kennemerland
National Park are just magical. Hollands most famous race
track is also located in Zandvoort and its seaside cafs and
restaurants provide an unforgettable dining experience.
ARRIVING IN ZANDVOORT
Most visitors reach Zandvoort either by train or by car. From
Amsterdam Central Station trains depart every half hour
toward the Zandvoort aan Zee Station. The journey takes
about 30 minutes and after a short interruption at Haarlem
Station, the train brings passengers through the landscape
of dunes at Zuid-Kennemerland to the beach town on the
North Sea. During the summer months, an extra service is
provided to and from Haarlem every 30 minutes. A one-
way ticket to Zandvoort costs 5 from Amsterdam or 2.10
from Haarlem. Travelling by car to Zandvoort is a bit more
complicated. Follow the highway to Haarlem, navigate
through the city and nd either the N201 or the N200. Both
roads connect Haarlem with Zandvoort.
ACCOMMODATION
HOTEL ANNA
Located right in the city centre of Zandvoort only a short
walk from the beach, it would be dicult to nd a more
central place to stay in Hollands most popular resort town.
All of its 25 rooms are slightly dierent, yet each is decorated
in a simple style and some even oer views of the citys fa-
mous red brick water tower. Accommodation includes TV,
phone and private bathrooms with showers.QHogeweg 5,
Zandvoort, tel. (+31) 235 71 46 74, www.hotelanna.info.
25 rooms (singles from 50, doubles from 80, triples
from 110, quads from 125). JAL
HOTEL ZEESPIEGEL
If youre looking for stylish accommodation near the
beach, then look no further than Hotel Zeespiegel. Owned
and operated by the Van der Spiegel family, the hotel is
one of the oldest in town, yet it has been completely reno-
vated in a modern style in shades of white, grey and black.
A TV, safe, private bathroom with a hairdryer and wi- all
come standard and some rooms also have balconies. You
can enjoy a meal out on the hotels terrace, but if youd like
to do some exploring, the sta will be happy to rent you a
bicycle so you can be on your way.QHogeweg 70, Zand-
voort, tel. (+31) 235 71 22 02, www.hotelzeespiegel.nl.
15 rooms (singles from 60, doubles from 85, family
rooms from 125). OJA6BKX hhh
EATING & DRINKING
BRUXELLES AAN ZEE
If drinking exceptional beer is one of your goals in Zan-
dvoort, you can end your search here. With almost 50
beers in bottles and another six on draught, well forgive
the owners their lack of originality when they created
their menu. All the usual main courses like schnitzels,
steaks and prawns can be had here for reasonable prices,
but we were particularly impressed by its varied chil-
drens menu that oered much more than the usual frites.
The gregarious sta are quick to engage you in conversa-
tion and Bruxelles serves Hollands most beloved frozen
popsicles, Raket, which are an absolute must on a hot
day.QStrandafgang Fauvage 14, Zandvoort, tel. (+31)
235 71 52 03, www.bruxellesaanzee.nl. Open 10:00 -
24:00. TJAGBKX
CAF KOPER
Zandvoort is much more than just a beach and if youre
not convinced then sit down at Caf Kopers wonderful
terrace. This cosy, traditional caf is a microcosm of the
town with its relaxed and welcoming ambience, its deli-
cious homemade meals and laid back views of patrons
chatting over a cup of coee without a care in the world.
If people watching isnt your thing you can also enjoy the
vista of the tiny square and its old church.QKerkplein 6,
Zandvoort, tel. (+31) 235 71 35 46, www.cafekoper.nl.
Open 09:00 - 02:00. i6GBKX
RISTORANTE ANDREA
This friendly restaurant serves fresh Italian food with a
smile. Ristorante Andrea puts a lot of eort into its tasty
dishes, but it could have done a bit more with its inte-
rior, which is ordinary and thats putting it mildly. On the
other hand, the warm atmosphere and the Italian avours
will quickly make you forget about any expectations you
might have about its dcor. On a good day you can also
enjoy your coee or pasta on the sunny terrace and watch
passers-by on Zandvoorts main pedestrian street.QKerk-
plein 9, Zandvoort, tel. (+31) 235 71 46 70. Open 12:00
- 22:00. Closed Tue, Wed. (12 - 15). TGBKXS
Summer 2014 65 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Zandvoort
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
July
4 - 6 Masters of Formula 3: The best Formula
3 drivers will compete at the race track
20 Zandvoort (A)live. A free beach festival
at Bruxelles and Mangos Beach Bar
26 Amsterdam Festival with several activi-
ties in Zandvoort aan Zee
August
2 - 8 EC Sand Sculpture Festival. The sand
sculptures on the boulevard and
streets of Zandvoort remain standing
until November
3 Place du Tertre. See how statues, paint-
ings and other art works are made at
this art market. The art is also for sale
9 & 10 Annual Evening and Summer Market.
Over 300 stalls and lots of fairground
attractions and live music in the centre
29 - 31 Historic Grand Prix. A race with historic
race cars and a parade on August 30
September
11 - 14 The KLM Open: a part of the European
Tour, the highest pro golf circuit in Eu-
rope. The 95th edition on Dutch soil
For more info visit www.vvvzandvoort.com
PLACES OF INTEREST
ZANDVOORT BEACH
The sandy beach at Zandvoort is one of the cleanest in
Holland. This has been recognised by the international
Blue Flag association, which awards its coveted ag to
beaches that meet a high standard of safety and cleanli-
ness. The 9km beach runs parallel to the village and is on
average 100m wide. Over 30 beach pavilions ensure that
youre never far away from food and drinks. Water sports
enthusiasts like kiteboarders usually operate from the
southern section of the beach. Access to the beach is free.
QBoulevard de Favauge, Boulevard Paulus Loot and
Boulevard Barnaart, Zandvoort.
ZANDVOORT RACE TRACK TOUR
Zandvoort is home to Hollands most important race track.
It opened in 1948 and from its inception until 1985, the
Dutch Grand Prix of Formula One was held here. Big names
like Jim Clark, Alain Prost and Niki Lauda have all raced in
Zandvoort. Current events include the A1 Grand Prix and
the Masters of Formula Three. For an up-to-date calendar of
events check out its website where you can also book tick-
ets. This June and July you can also take a tour of the race
track every Wednesday at 14:00 and learn about its history
while viewing its most interesting features rsthand. Tickets
cost 9.50 and must be bought in advance at VVV Zand-
voort. The tour begins with coee or tea at BMW Driving Ex-
perience Slotemakers.QBurgemeester van Alphenstraat
108, Zandvoort, www.vvvzandvoort.com. TUL
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Venue Index
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148 Amsterdam
(Next to the Sensi Seed Bank)
Open all week from 10:00 until 23:00
www.hashmuseum.com
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