DAY CREAM ( SUN BLOCK, SUN TAN LOTION, SUN

CREAM )
Sunblock (also commonly known as sun screen, sun tan lotion, sun cream or block out) is a lotion,
spray, gel or other topical product that absorbs or reflects some of the sun's ultraviolet (UV)
radiation on the skin exposed to sunlight and thus helps protect against sunburn.Skin-lightening
products have sunscreen to protect lightened skin because light skin is more susceptible to sun
damage than darker skin. A number of sunscreens have tanning power to help the skin to darken or
tan.
Sunscreens contain one or more of the following ingredients:
Organic chemical compounds that absorb ultraviolet light.
Inorganic particulates that reflect, scatter, and absorb UV light (such as titanium dioxide, zinc
oxide, or a combination of both).
Organic particulates that mostly absorb light like organic chemical compounds, but contain
multiple chromophores, may reflect and scatter a fraction of light like inorganic particulates, and
behave differently in formulations than organic chemical compounds. An example is Tinosorb M.
Since the UV-attenuating efficacy depends strongly on particle size, the material is micronised to
particle sizes below 200 nm. The mode of action of this photostable filter system is governed to
about 90% by absorption and 10% by scattering of UV light.
Depending on the mode of action sunscreens can be classified into physical sunscreens (i.e., those
that reflect the sunlight) or chemical sunscreens (i.e., those that absorb the UV light).
Medical organizations such as the American Cancer Society recommend the use of sunscreen
because it prevents the squamous cell carcinoma and the basal cell carcinoma.[3] However, the use
of sunscreens is controversial for various reasons. Many sunscreens do not block UVA radiation,
which does not cause sunburn but can increase the rate of melanoma, another kind of skin cancer,
and photodermatitis, so people using sunscreens may be exposed to a high UVA levels without
realizing it
Dosage

Sunscreen helps prevent sunburn, such as this, which has blistered
The dose used in FDA sunscreen testing is 2.2 mg/cm of exposed skin. Provided one assumes an
"average" adult build of height 5 ft 4 in (163 cm) and weight 150 lb (68 kg) with a 32 in (82 cm) waist,
that adult wearing a bathing suit covering the groin area should apply 29 g (approximately 1 oz)
evenly to the uncovered body area. Considering only the face, this translates to about 1/4 to 1/3 of a
teaspoon for the average adult face. Larger individuals should scale these quantities accordingly.
Contrary to the common advice that sunscreen should be reapplied every 23 hours, some research
has shown that the best protection is achieved by application 1530 minutes before exposure,
followed by one reapplication 1530 minutes after the sun exposure begins. Further reapplication is
only necessary after activities such as swimming, sweating, or rubbing/wiping.
However, more recent research at the University of California, Riverside, indicates that sunscreen
must be reapplied within 2 hours in order to remain effective. Not reapplying could even cause more
cell damage than not using sunscreen at all, due to the release of extra free radicals from those
sunscreen chemicals that were absorbed into the skin.[6] Some studies have shown that people
commonly apply only 1/2 to 1/4 of the amount recommended to achieve the rated sun protection
factor (SPF), and in consequence the effective SPF should be downgraded to a square or 4th root of
the advertised value.[7]A later study found a significant exponential relation between SPF and the
amount of sunscreen applied and the results are closer to the linearity than expected by theory.
History
The first effective sunscreen may have been developed by chemist Franz Greiter in 1938. The
product, called Gletscher Crme (Glacier Cream), subsequently became the basis for the
company Piz Buin (named in honor of the place Greiter allegedly obtained the sunburn that inspired
his concoction), which is still today a marketer of sunscreen products.It has been estimated
that Gletscher Crme had a sun protection factor of 2.
The first widely used sunscreen was produced by Benjamin Green, an airman and later a pharmacist,
in 1944. The product, Red Vet Pet (for red veterinary petrolatum), had limited effectiveness, working
as a physical blocker of ultraviolet radiation. It was a disagreeable red, sticky substance similar to
petroleum jelly. This product was developed during the height of World War II, when it was likely
that the hazards of sun overexposure were becoming apparent to soldiers in the Pacific and to their
families at home. Sales of this product boomed when Coppertoneacquired the patent and marketed
the substance under the Coppertone girl and Bain de Soleil branding in the early 1950s.
Franz Greiter is credited with introducing the concept of sun protection factor (SPF) in 1962, which
has become a worldwide standard for measuring the effectiveness of sunscreen when applied at an
even rate of 2 milligrams per square centimeter (mg/cm2). Some controversy exists over the
usefulness of SPF measurements, especially whether the 2 mg/cm2 application rate is an accurate
reflection of peoples actual use.
Newer sunscreens have been developed with the ability to withstand contact
with water, heat and sweat.


Measurements of sunscreen protection
Sun protection factor (SPF)

Two photographs showing the effect of applying sunscreen in visible light and in UVA. The
photograph on the right was taken using ultraviolet photography shortly after application of
sunscreen to half of the face.
The sun protection factor of a sunscreen is a laboratory measure of the effectiveness of sunscreen
the higher the SPF, the more protection a sunscreen offers against UV-B (the ultraviolet radiation
that causes sunburn). The SPF is the amount of UV radiation required to cause sunburn on skin with
the sunscreen on, as a multiple of the amount required without the sunscreen.[10] There is a
popular oversimplification of how SPF determines how long one can stay in the sun. For example,
many users believe that, if they normally get sunburn in one hour, then an SPF 15 sunscreen allows
them to stay in the sun fifteen hours (i.e. fifteen times longer) without getting sunburn. This would
be true if the intensity of UV radiation were the same for the whole fifteen hours as in the one hour,
but this is not normally the case. Intensity of solar radiation varies considerably with time of day.
During early morning and late afternoon, the sun's radiation intensity is diminished since it must
pass through more of the Earth's atmosphere while it is near the horizon.
In practice, the protection from a particular sunscreen depends, besides on SPF, on factors such as:
The skin type of the user.
The amount applied and frequency of re-application.
Activities in which one engages (for example, swimming leads to a loss of sunscreen from the
skin).
Amount of sunscreen the skin has absorbed.
The SPF is an imperfect measure of skin damage because invisible damage and skin aging are also
caused by ultraviolet type A (UVA, wavelength 320 to 400 nm), which does not cause reddening or
pain. Conventional sunscreen blocks very little UVA radiation relative to the nominal SPF; broad-
spectrum sunscreens are designed to protect against both UVB and UVA.[11][12][13] According to a
2004 study, UVA also causes DNA damage to cells deep within the skin, increasing the risk
of malignant melanomas. Even some products labeled "broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection" do
not provide good protection against UVA rays. The best UVA protection is provided by products that
contain zinc oxide, avobenzone, and ecamsule. Titanium dioxide probably gives good protection, but
does not completely cover the entire UV-A spectrum, as recent research suggests that zinc oxide is
superior to titanium dioxide at wavelengths between 340 and 380 nm.
Owing to consumer confusion over the real degree and duration of protection offered, labeling
restrictions are in force in several countries. In the EU sunscreen labels can only go up to SPF 50+
(actually indicating a SPF of 60 or higher) while Australia's upper limit is 30+. TheUnited States does
not have mandatory, comprehensive sunscreen standards, although a draft rule has been under
development since 1978. In the 2007 draft rule, Food and Drug Administration (FDA) proposed to
institute the labelling of SPF 50+ for sunscreens offering more protection. This and other measures
were proposed to limit unrealistic claims about the level of protection offered (such as "all day
protection").




UV-B sunlight spectrum (on a summer day in the Netherlands), along with the CIE Erythemal action
spectrum. The effective spectrum is the product of the former two.
The SPF can be measured by applying sunscreen to the skin of a volunteer and measuring how long it
takes before sunburn occurs when exposed to an artificial sunlight source. In the US, such an in
vivo test is required by the FDA. It can also be measured in vitro with the help of a specially
designed spectrometer. In this case, the actual transmittance of the sunscreen is measured, along
with the degradation of the product due to being exposed to sunlight. In this case, the transmittance
of the sunscreen must be measured over all wavelengths in the UV-B range (290320 nm), along
with a table of how effective various wavelengths are in causing sunburn (the erythemal action
spectrum) and the actual intensity spectrumof sunlight (see the figure). Such in vitro measurements
agree very well with in vivomeasurements. Numerous methods have been devised for evaluation of
UVA and UVB protection. The most reliable spectrophotochemical methods eliminate the subjective
nature of grading erythema.
Mathematically, the SPF is calculated from measured data as

where E() is the solar irradiance spectrum, A() the erythemal action spectrum, and MPF() the
monochromatic protection factor, all functions of the wavelength . The MPF is roughly the inverse
of the transmittance at a given wavelength.

The above means that the SPF is not simply the inverse of the transmittance in the UV-B region. If
that were true, then applying two layers of SPF 5 sunscreen would be equivalent to SPF 25 (5 times
5). The actual combined SPF is always lower than the square of the single-layer SPF.

Measurements of UVA protection
Persistent pigment darkening (PPD)
The persistent pigment darkening (PPD) method is a method of measuring UVA protection, similar to
the SPF method of measuring UVB light protection. Originally developed in Japan, it is the preferred
method used by manufacturers such as L'Oral.
Instead of measuring erythema or reddening of the skin, the PPD method uses UVA radiation to
cause a persistent darkening or tanning of the skin. Theoretically, a sunscreen with a PPD rating of
10 should allow a person 10 times as much UVA exposure as would be without protection. The PPD
method is an in vivo test like SPF. In addition, Colipa has introduced a method that, it is claimed, can
measure this in vitro and provide parity with the PPD method.


The UVA seal used in the EU
As part of revised guidelines for sunscreens in the EU, there is a requirement to provide the
consumer with a minimum level of UVA protection in relation to the SPF. This should be a UVA PF of
at least 1/3 of the SPF to carry the UVA seal. The implementation of this seal is in its phase-in period,
so a sunscreen without it may already offer this protection.
Star rating system
In the UK and Ireland, the Boots star rating system is a proprietary in vitro method used to describe
the ratio of UVA to UVB protection offered by sunscreen creams and sprays. Based on original work
by Prof. Brian Diffey at Newcastle University, the Boots Company in Nottingham, UK, developed a
standard method that has been adopted by most companies marketing these products in the UK.
The logo and methodology of the test are licenced for a token fee to any manufacturer or brand of
sunscreens that are sold in the Boots retail chain, provided the products to which the logo is applied
perform to the standard claimed. Own Label products exclusively sold in other retailers are now
excluded from the terms of the licence. It should not be confused with SPF, which is measured with
reference to burning and UVB. One-star products provide the least ratio of UVA protection; five-star
products are best. The method has recently been revised in the light of the Colipa UVA PF test, and
with the new EU recommendations regarding UVA PF. The method still uses a spectrophotometer to
measure absorption of UVA vs UVB; the difference stems from a requirement to pre-irradiate
samples (where this was not previously required) to give a better indication of UVA protection, and
of photostability when the product is used. With the current methodology, the lowest rating is three
stars, the highest being five stars.
In August 2007, the FDA put out for consultation the proposal that a version of this protocol be used
to inform users of American product of the protection that it gives against UVA

Sunblock is a type of sunscreen

A tube of SPF 15 sun block lotion
Sunblock typically refers to opaque sunscreen that is effective at blocking both UVA and UVB rays
and uses a heavy carrier oil to resist being washed off. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are two of the
important ingredients in sunblock. Unlike the organic sun-blocking agents used in many sunscreens,
these metal oxides do not degrade with exposure to sunlight.
The use of the word "sunblock" in the marketing of sunscreens is controversial. The FDA has
considered banning such use because it can lead consumers to overestimate the effectiveness of
products so labeled.[
For total protection against damage from the sun, the skin needs to be protected from UVA, UVB
and IRA (infrared light). Roughly 35% of solar energy is IRA.
Potential health risks
As a defense against UV radiation, the amount of the brown pigment melanin in the skin increases
when exposed to moderate (depending on skin type) levels of radiation; this is commonly known as
a sun tan. The purpose of melanin is to absorb UV radiation and dissipate the energy as harmless
heat, blocking the UV from damaging skin tissue. UVA gives a quick tan that lasts for days by
oxidizing melanin that was already present and triggers the release of the melanin from
melanocytes. UVB on the other hand yields a tan that takes roughly two days to develop because it
stimulates the body to produce more melanin. The photochemical properties of melanin make it an
excellent photoprotectant.
Sunscreen chemicals on the other hand cannot dissipate the energy of the excited state as efficiently
as melanin and therefore the penetration of sunscreen ingredients into the lower layers of the skin
increases the amount of free radicals and reactive oxygen species(ROS).
Some sunscreen lotions now include compounds such as titanium dioxide, which helps protect
against UVB rays. Other UVA blocking compounds found in sunscreen include zinc
oxide and avobenzone. There are also naturally occurring compounds found in rainforest plants that
have been known to protect the skin from UV radiation damage, such as the fern Phlebodium
aureum.
Some sunscreen chemicals produce potentially harmful substances if they are illuminated while in
contact with living cells. The amount of sunscreen that penetrates through the stratum
corneum may or may not be large enough to cause damage. In one study of sunscreens, the authors
write:
The question whether UV filters acts on or in the skin has so far not been fully answered. Despite the
fact that an answer would be a key to improve formulations of sun protection products, many
publications carefully avoid addressing this question.
In an experiment by Hanson et al. that was published in 2006, the amount of harmful reactive
oxygen species was measured in untreated and in sunscreen-treated skin. In the first 20 minutes the
film of sunscreen had a protective effect and the number of ROS species was smaller. After 60
minutes, however, the amount of absorbed sunscreen was so high that the amount of ROS was
higher in the sunscreen-treated skin than in the untreated skin.
George Zachariadis and E Sahanidou of the Laboratory of Analytical Chemistry, at Aristotle
University, in Thessaloniki, Greece, have now carried out an ICP-AES analysis of several commercially
available sunscreen creams and lotions. "The objective was the simultaneous determination of
titanium and several minor, trace or toxic elements (aluminum, zinc, magnesium, iron, manganese,
copper, chromium, lead, and bismuth) in the final products," the researchers say. They concluded
that "Most of the commercial preparations that were studied showed generally good agreement to
the ingredients listed on the product label." However, they also point out that the quantitative
composition of the products tested cannot be assessed because the product labels usually do not
provide a detailed break down of all ingredients and their concentrations. They also point out that,
worryingly, their tests consistently revealed the presence of elements not cited in the product
formulation, which emphasized the need for a standardized and official testing method for multi-
element quality control of these products.
Some epidemiological studies indicate an increased risk of malignant melanoma for the sunscreen
user. Despite these studies, no medical association has published recommendations to not use
sunblock. Different meta analysis publications have concluded that the evidence is not yet sufficient
to claim a positive correlation between sunscreen use and malignant melanoma.
Adverse health effects may be associated with some synthetic compounds in sunscreens. In 2007
two studies by the CDC highlighted concerns about the sunscreen chemical oxybenzone
(benzophenone-3). The first detected the chemicals in greater than 95% of 2000 Americans tested,
while the second found that mothers with high levels of oxybenzone in their bodies were more likely
to give birth to underweight baby girls.
Concerns have been raised regarding the use of nanoparticles in sunscreen. Theoretically, sunscreen
nanoparticles could increase rates of certain cancers, or diseases similar to those caused by
asbestos. In 2006 the Therapeutic Goods Administration of Australia concluded a study and found:
"There is evidence from isolated cell experiments that zinc oxide and titanium dioxide can induce
free radical formation in the presence of light and that this may damage these cells (photo-
mutagenicity with zinc oxide). However, this would only be of concern in people using sunscreens if
the zinc oxide and titanium dioxide penetrated into viable skin cells. The weight of current evidence
is that they remain on the surface of the skin and in the outer dead layer (stratum corneum) of the
skin."
Vitamin D
The use of sunscreen interferes with vitamin D production, leading to deficiency in Australia after a
government campaign to increase sunscreen use. Doctors recommend spending small amounts of
time in the sun without sun protection to ensure adequate production of vitamin D. When the UV
index is greater than 3 (which occurs daily within the tropics and daily during the spring and summer
seasons intemperate regions) adequate amounts of vitamin D3 can be made in the skin after only
ten to fifteen minutes of sun exposure at least two times per week to the face, arms, hands, or back
without sunscreen. With longer exposure to UVB rays, an equilibrium is achieved in the skin, and the
vitamin simply degrades as fast as it is generated.
Active ingredients
The principal ingredients in sunscreens are
usually aromatic molecules conjugated with carbonyl groups. This general structure allows the
molecule to absorb high-energy ultraviolet rays and release the energy as lower-energy rays,
thereby preventing the skin-damaging ultraviolet rays from reaching the skin. So, upon exposure to
UV light, most of the ingredients (with the notable exception of avobenzone) do not undergo
significant chemical change, allowing these ingredients to retain the UV-absorbing potency without
significant photodegradation. A chemical stabilizer is included in some sunscreens containing
avobenzone to slow its breakdown - examples include formulations containingHelioplex and
AvoTriplex. The stability of avobenzone can also be improved by bemotrizinol, octocrylene and
various other photostabilisers.
FDA allowable ingredients
The following are the FDA allowable active ingredients in sunscreens:
UV-filter Other names
Maximum
concentration
Permitted in
these
countries
Results of
safety testing
p-Aminobenzoic acid PABA
15% (EC- banned
from sale to
consumers from 8
October 2009)
USA, AUS
Protects
against skin
tumors in
mice. Shown to
increase DNA
defects,
however, and is
now less
commonly
used.
Padimate O
OD-PABA, octyldimethyl-
PABA, -PABA
8% (EC,USA,AUS)
10% (JP)
(Not currently
supported in EU
and may be
delisted)
EC, USA, AUS,
JP
Not tested
Phenylbenzimidazole
sulfonic acid
Ensulizole, Eusolex 232,
PBSA, Parsol HS
4% (US,AUS) 8%
(EC) 3% (JP)
EC,USA, AUS,
JP
Genotoxic in
bacteria
Cinoxate
2-Ethoxyethyl p-
methoxycinnamate
3% (US) 6% (AUS) USA, AUS Not tested
Dioxybenzone Benzophenone-8 3% USA, AUS Not tested
Oxybenzone
Benzophenone-3, 6% (US) 10% EC, USA, AUS,
Not tested
Eusolex 4360, Escalol
567
(AUS,EU) 5% (JP) JP
Homosalate
Homomethyl salicylate,
HMS
10% (EC, JP) 15%
(US,AUS)
EC, USA, AUS,
JP
Not tested
Menthyl
anthranilate
Meradimate 5% USA, AUS Not tested
Octocrylene
Eusolex OCR, 2-cyano-
3,3diphenyl acrylic acid,
2-ethylhexylester
10%
EC,USA, AUS,
JP
Increases ROS
Octyl
methoxycinnamate
Octinoxate, EMC, OMC,
Ethylmethoxycinnamate,
Escalol 557, 2-
ethylhexyl-
paramethoxycinnamate,
Parsol MCX
7.5% (US) 10%
(EC,AUS)20% (JP)
EC,USA, AUS,
JP

Octyl salicylate
Octisalate, 2-Ethylhexyl
salicylate, Escalol 587,
5% (EC,USA,AUS)
10% (JP)
EC,USA, AUS,
JP
Not tested
Sulisobenzone
2-Hydroxy-4-
Methoxybenzophenone-
5-sulfonic acid,
3-benzoyl-4-hydroxy-6-
methoxybenzenesulfonic
acid, Benzophenone-4,
Escalol 577
5% (EC) 10% (US,
AUS, JP)
EC,USA, AUS,
JP

Trolamine salicylate
Triethanolamine
salicylate
12% USA, AUS Not tested
Avobenzone
1-(4-methoxyphenyl)-3-
(4-tert-butyl
phenyl)propane-1,3-
dione, Butyl methoxy
dibenzoylmethane,
BMDBM, Parsol 1789,
Eusolex 9020
3% (US) 5%
(EC,AUS)10% (JP)
EC, USA, AUS,
JP
Not available
Ecamsule
Mexoryl SX,
Terephthalylidene
10%
EC,AUS
(US:Approved
Protects
against skin
Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid in certain
formulations
up to 3% via
New Drug
Application
(NDA) Route)
tumors in mice
Titanium dioxide CI77891
25% (No limit
Japan)
EC,USA, AUS,
JP
Not tested
Zinc oxide

25% (US) 20%
(AUS)
(EC-25% provided
particle size
>100 nm) (Japan,
No Limit)
EC,USA, AUS,
JP
Protects
against skin
tumors in mice

Other ingredients approved within the EU and other parts of the world, that have not been included
in the current FDA Monograph:
UV-filter Other names
Maximum
concentration
Permitted
in
4-Methylbenzylidene
camphor
Enzacamene, Parsol 5000, Eusolex 6300,
MBC
4%* EC, AUS
Tinosorb M
Bisoctrizole, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl
Tetramethylbutylphenol, MBBT
10%*
EC, AUS,
JP
Tinosorb S
Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenol
triazine, Bemotrizinol, BEMT, anisotriazine
10% (EC, AUS)
3% (JP)*
EC, AUS,
JP
Neo Heliopan AP
Bisdisulizole Disodium, Disodium phenyl
dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate,
bisimidazylate, DPDT
10% EC, AUS
Mexoryl XL Drometrizole Trisiloxane 15% EC, AUS
Benzophenone-9
Uvinul DS 49, CAS 3121-60-6, Sodium
Dihydroxy Dimethoxy
Disulfobenzophenone
10% JP
Uvinul T 150 Octyl triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, EHT
5% (EC, AUS) 3%
(JP)*
EC, AUS
Uvinul A Plus
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl
Benzoate
10% (EC,JP) EC , JP
Uvasorb HEB
Iscotrizinol, Diethylhexyl butamido
triazone, DBT
10% (EC) 5%
(JP) *
EC, JP
Parsol SLX
Dimethico-diethylbenzalmalonate,
Polysilicone-15
10%
EC, AUS,
JP
Isopentenyl-4-
methoxycinnamate
Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate, IMC, Neo
Heliopan E1000, Amiloxate
10% * EC, AUS
Many of the ingredients not approved by the FDA are relatively new and developed to absorb UVA.
* Time and Extent Application (TEA), Proposed Rule on FDA approval expected 2009
Application

Protection of the skin through use of a beach umbrella
Excessive exposure to direct sunlight is potentially harmful. Excessive exposure can result
in sunburn if a person does not wear sun protective clothing or use suitable sunscreen. Products
with a higher SPF (Sun Protection Factor) level provide greater protection against ultraviolet
radiation. However, in 1998, the Annual Meeting of the American Association for the Advancement
of Science reported that some sunscreens advertising UVA and UVB protection do not provide
adequate safety from UVA radiation and could give sun tanners a false sense of protection. A
sunscreen should also be hypoallergenic and noncomedogenic so it does not cause a rash or clog the
pores, which can cause acne.
For those choosing to tan, some dermatologists recommend the following preventative measures:
Sunscreens should block both UVA and UVB rays. These are called broad-spectrum sunscreens,
which should also be hypoallergenic and noncomedogenic so the do not cause a rash or clog the
pores, which can cause acne.
Sunscreens need to be applied thickly enough to get the full SPF protection.
Sunscreens should be applied 15 to 30 minutes before exposure, followed by one reapplication 15
to 30 minutes after the sun exposure begins. Further reapplication is necessary only after activities
such as swimming, sweating, and rubbing.
Sun rays are strongest between 10 am and 4 pm. Sun rays are stronger at
higher elevations(mountains) and latitudes near the equator.
Wearing a hat with a brim and anti-UV sunglasses can provide almost 100% protection against
ultraviolet radiation's entering the eyes.
Reflective surfaces like snow and water can greatly increase the amount of UV radiation to which
the skin is exposed.
Recent evidence indicates that caffeine and caffeine sodium benzoate increase UVB-
induced apoptosis both in topical and oral applications. In mice, UVB-induced hyperplasia was
greatly reduced with administration of these substances. Although studies in humans remain
untested, caffeine and caffeine sodium benzoate may be novel inhibitors of skin cancer. ( WIKI )
Skin care: Moisturizing Day Cream- Dry Skin
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby
care) >> Facial care >> Moisturizing products (creams &
lotions)
Supplier Hydromer
End consumer benefits
moisturizing
Description This day cream is made for dry skin.
Ingredients
Phase INCI Name
Quantity
(%)
A Glycerin 4.00
A PVP/Polycarbamyl /Polyglycol 5.00
A
Phenoxyethanol/
Methylparaben/Ethylparaben/
0.20
Propylparaben/Butylparaben
B Sucrose Distearate 3.00
B Sucrose Stearate 1.00
B Cetearyl Isononanoate 3.00
B Octyl Palmitate 5.00
B Dicaprylyl Ether 6.00
B Cetyl Ricinoleate 2.50
B Cetearyl Alcohol 3.00
B
Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/
Ethylparaben/Propylparaben/
Butylparaben
0.50
B Octyl Methoxycinnamate 4.00
C Perfume 0.25

Properties -
Procedure
Mix phase A and heat to 750C. Mix phase B and heat to
750C. Mix intensive with Ultra -Turrax. Cool down to 450C
while stirring. Add phase C mix short term with Ultra -
Turrax. Cool down to 300C whilst stirring.


Sun Care:O/W day cream with UVA and UVB protection
Category
Sun care (Sun protection, After-sun & Self-tanning) >> Sun
protection >> Creams
Supplier Clariant
End consumer benefits
protection
Description
with Triceteareth-4 Phosphate, volatile Caprylyl Methicone,
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Allantoin &
SPF: about 5
Ingredients
Phase INCI Name
Quantity
(%)
A Triceteareth-4 Phosphate 1.0
A Glyceryl Stearate 0.5
A Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5
A Mineral Oil, low viscosity 7.0
A Isopropyl Palmitate 6.0
A Caprylyl Methicone 1.0
A Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2.0
A Benzophenone ? 3 1.0
B
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP
Copolymer
1.0
C Glycerin 5.0
C
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl
Tetramethylbutylphenol
3.0
C Allantoin 0.3
D Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0
D Fragrance 0.3
D
Propylene Glycol; Diazolidinyl Urea;
Methylparaben; Propylparaben
q.s.

Properties -
Procedure
Melt A at about 70 C. Heat C to about 70 C. Stir B in A and add
heated C immediately and stir until cool. At about 30 C stir D into
III.



Skin Care: Defense Moisturizing Skin Cream
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >>
Facial care >> Moisturizing products (creams & lotions)
Supplier LIPO Chemicals
End consumer benefits
moisturizing
protection
smoothness
softness
Description
This Defense Moisturizer Skin Cream offers all day defense, coupled
with all day moisturization. It offers broad-spectrum daily protection
against incidental sun exposure from both UVA and UVB rays, and
over time, helps prevent the signs of premature aging, helping skin
retain its youthful appearance. This cream absorbs quickly into skin
due to the combination of light emollients and moisturizers that last
all day to help skin stay soft, smooth and beautiful.
Ingredients
Phase INCI Name Quantity (%)
A Deionized Water 70.40%
B Keltrol 0.25%
B Veegum HV 0.15%
C Propylene Glycol 0.50%
C Liponic EG-1 1.00%
D Butylene Glycol 1.50%
D Liposerve PP 0.75%
D Ultrapure L 5.00%
D Liponate TDTM 1.00%
E Liponate NPGC-2 3.00%
E Lipowax D 1.25%
E Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.00%
E Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl methane 3.50%
E Lipomic 601 BN 0.50%
E Lipopeg 10-S 0.50%
E Retinyl Palmitate 0.10%
E BHT 0.05%
E Vitamin E Acetate 0.05%
E Lipowax P 0.50%
E Lipocol C 1.00%
E Lipo GMS-450 1.75%
E Titanium Dioxide 0.25%

Properties
pH:6.2 0.2
Viscosity:LV TE @ 0.5 RPM 525,000 cps 10%
Procedure
1. Heat A to 78C.

2. Dry mix B and add to A with propeller mixer at medium speed.
Mix until gums are completely hydrated.

3. Premix C and add to batch without heating (Hold batch
temperature at 78C).

4. Premix D and add to batch without heating.

5. In another vessel mix and heat E to 80C until completely clear.
Add to the batch with homomixer at low to medium speed for 1 to 2
minutes.

6. Place back on the propeller mixer, at low speed with small vortex,
and mix

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Skin Care: DAY DEFENSE LOTION
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >>
Facial care >> Moisturizing products (creams & lotions)
Supplier Lipo Technologies
End consumer benefits
matifying
moisturizing
Description
A light lotion with an approximate SPF 15, designed to protect the
skin from environmental aggressions with antioxidants and
sunscreens. The pumpkin seed extract provides a mattifying
appearance to the skin. This lotion absorbs quickly leaving it well
suited for men's, womens and teens skincare.
Ingredients
Phase INCI Name Quantity (%)
A Deionized Water 69.82 %
A Ultrez 10 (119) 0.18%
A Liponic EG (1) 2.50%
A Liposorb L-20 (1) 0.20%
A Disodium EDTA (119) 0.05%
A Lipo Hyaluronic Acid 1% solution (1) 0.50%
A Liponate GC (1) 4.00%
B Parsol MCX (24) 7.50 %
B Escalol 587 (8) 5.00 %
B Silkflo366 (88) 3.00%
B Lipovol WIRA (1) 2.00%
B Lipovol HNO (1) 0.10%
B Lipovol RB (1) 0.10%
B Pemulen TR-1 (119) 0.25%
B Liposerve PP (1) 1.00%
B Curbilene (5) 1.00%
B Vitamin E Acetate (119) 0.10%
C Deionized Water 2.40%
C AMP-95 (114) 0.30%

Properties
pH: 6.4 0.2
Viscosity: RVT #6 @ 20 rpm = 17,500 cps
Stability: 30 days at 50C
Procedure
1. Mix the water of Sequence #1 with high speed
propeller agitation. Slowly sprinkle in the Ultrez 10
to avoid lumps. Continue mixing until fully dissolved.
Add the remainder of Sequence #1 ingredients and
mix at a moderate speed.
2. Combine Sequence #2 ingredients, except for the
Pemulen TR-1, and mix with propeller agitation.
Slowly sprinkle the Pemulen TR-1 into Sequence #2
using higher speed agitation.
3. Add Sequence #2 to Sequence #1 with moderate
propeller agitation. Mix for 45 minutes to 1 hour to
insure the Pemulen TR-1 is well hydrated.
4. Switch the batch over to sweep agitation blade.
5. Slowly add combined Sequence #3 to the batch.
Batch will thicken at this point. Continue sweep
mixing until the batch is completely homogeneous.

Skin Care: All-Day-Long Concealer
Category
Decorative cosmetics/Make-up >> Foundations & Concealers
(creams, fluids)
Supplier Floratech
End consumer benefits
bio/ organic
smoothness
Description
This under-eye concealer provides superior, natural-looking, all-day
coverage. Floraesters IPJ demonstrates amazing slip and
spreadability to support smooth application with high coverage. This
unique, dry emollient offers an even and matte appearance to the
final product while firming the skin. With its excellent oxidative
stability in the presence of iron oxides, Floraesters IPJ is the perfect
botanically-derived emollient for highly pigmented products.
Ingredients
Phase INCI Name
Quantity
(%)
A Deionized Water q.s
A Tween 61 0.10%
B Zemea 7.00%
B
Carbowax Sentry Polyethylene Glycol 400 NF,
FCC
3.00%
B Veegum Granules 0.90%
B Keltrol CG-T 0.15%
C Supra H, USP 2.40%
C Unipure Red LC 381 0.27%
C Unipure Yellow LC 182 0.89%
C Pur Oxy Black B.C. 34-PC-3190E 0.18%
C Titanium Dioxide (Oil Dispersed) 8.55%
C Biron B-50 1.80%
D Floraesters IPJ 5.00%
D Myritol 312 5.00%
D Pelemol IN-2 6.00%
D Lanette 16 0.60%
D Emersol 132 NF Lily 3.00%
D Myritol PC 3.50%
D Lexemul 561 2.00%
D Vitamin E Acetate 0.10%
D Vitamin A Palmitate 0.010%
E Deionized Water 3.00%
E Tris Amino 40% 0.45%
F
Dow Corning 9509 Silicone Elastomer
Suspension
0.80%
F Preservative q.s

Properties
Typical Properties: pH: 6.3 - 6.7
Viscosity: = 121,100 cP
Procedure
1. Heat the deionized water of Phase A to 75-80C.
Add Tween 61 with moderate propeller agitation.
2. In a separate vessel, mix all ingredients of Phase
B.
3. Add Phase B to Phase A at 75-80C with
moderate propeller agitation. After the Keltrol
CG-T is completely hydrated, switch the agitation
to homomixing (square-hole head, typical). Mix
at medium-high speed until uniform.
4. Add the ingredients of Phase C to Phase AB in
the order listed with high-speed homomixer
agitation. Continue mixing at 75-80C with highspeed
homomixer agitation until all pigments are
completely ground and the color appears
uniform.
5. Combine the ingredients of Phase D and heat to
75C with propeller agitation. Add this to Phase
ABC with homomixer agitation. After Phase D is
completely mixed, switch to moderate propeller
agitation and continue mixing until the mixture
appears uniform.
6. Mix the ingredients of Phase E. Add Phase E to
Phase ABCD at 75-80C and mix with moderate
propeller agitation until the mixture appears
uniform. Begin cooling.
7. At 45-50C, add the ingredients of Phase F in
the order listed with moderate propeller
agitation. Compensate for deionized water loss
by weight. Continue mixing with moderate
propeller agitation until the mixture reaches
room temperature.

.
Sun care: Daily care lotion Day-Light
Category
Sun care (Sun protection, After-sun & Self-tanning) >>
After sun products
Supplier BASF
End consumer benefits

Description Daily care lotion Day-Light
Ingredients
Phase INCI Name Quantity (%)
A Cetiol B 8.00%
A Finsolv TN 8,00%
A Myritol 331 12,00%
A Lanette E 1,00 %
A Eumulgin VL 75 4,00 %
A Lanette O 2,00 %
A Uvinul T 150 1,00 %
B Z-Cote 3,00%
C Glycerin 87% 3,00 %
C Edeta BD 0,10 %
C Allantoin 0,20%
C Keltrol 0,30 %
C Veegum Ultra 1,50 %
C Water dem. 54,40%
D Citric Acid 0,50 %
D Perfume q.s.
D Phenonip 1,00 %

Properties
Viscosity: 3000 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+ pH value: 7.0
Sun Protection Factor: 14 Colipa Task Force Sun Prot.
Meas.
Procedure
Heat phase A to about 80C, add phase B and
homogenize for 3 minutes. Heat phase C to about
80C and stir it into the combined phases A+B
whilst homogenizing. Cool to about 40C whilst
stirring, add phase D and homogenize again.

Sun Care: Soothing day fluid SPF 8
Category
Sun care (Sun protection, After-sun & Self-tanning) >> Sun
protection >> Lotions
Supplier National Starch and Chemical-Personal Care
End consumer benefits
soothing
Description Cold process formulation
Ingredients
Phase INCI Name
Quantity
(%)
A Octadecenedioic Acid 2.00
A Triethylhexanoin 4.00
A Isohexadecane 6.00
A Squalane 2.00
A Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide 0.30
A Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 6.00
A Polysorbate 80 5.00
B Glycerin 3.00
B Vitis vinifera 0.10
B Panthenol, Allantoin 0.20
B Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 5.00
C
Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea,
Methylparaben, Propylparaben
1.00
D Fragrance (Perfume) q.s

Properties
Viscosity: 5.600 mPas (Brookfield LVT, Spindle D, 12 rpm,
20C) pH: 4.53
Procedure
Disperse Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in water for ten
minutes (500 rpm). Add the rest of ingredients of Phase B.
Mix Phase A and heat to 70C until homogeneous. Add
Phase A to Phase B while stirring intensively
(approximately 600 rpm). Add Phase C. Add Phase D.
Maintain agitation (500 rpm) for 20-30 minutes.