http://www.instructables.

com/id/How-to-design-and-build-a-go-kart/
Food Living Outside Play Technology Workshop
How to design and build a go kart.
by liquidhandwash on July 30, 2013
Table of Contents
How to design and build a go kart. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intro: How to design and build a go kart. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Step 1: Stuff you will need . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Step 2: Steering Geometry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Step 3: Designing the frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Step 4: Frame Jig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Step 5: King pins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Step 6: Steering Bush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Step 7: Steering Column . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Step 8: Steering hub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Step 9: King pin Jigs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Step 10: Fun with tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Step 11: Pedals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Step 12: Stub axels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Step 13: Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Step 14: Welding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Step 15: Floor and chain guard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Step 16: Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Step 17: Steering arms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Step 18: The little stuff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Step 19: Testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Step 20: Fitting racing bodywork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Step 21: Strip down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Step 22: Paint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Step 23: Reassemble . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Step 24: Racing Photos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-design-and-build-a-go-kart/
Author:liquidhandwash
Fixer, Finder, Fabricator.
Intro: How to design and build a go kart.
Hello everyone this Instructable is a collaboration of nine year 10 engineering students work. Their task is to work as a team to research, design and build a go kart,
using sound engineering principals. As this is a student project the frame must be kept as simple as possible, so that students can build the kart with minimal tools, and
with in the time frame allocated.
This Instructable has lots of photos with notes, just run your cursor over the box on most photos to make the text pop up
Go-karts must have!
Brakes
Throttle
Bumpers to stop the rear wheels coming into contact with another kart.
Chain must be able to be adjusted.
Standard off the shelf parts must be used.
Toe in and chain must be able to be adjusted.
Chain guard
No sharp edges
Correct steering geometry
Members of the team
o_-
iTz Monkeeh
HDinosaur
Quartz476
WILLBA55
lincspencer
BrinkEdge
Pc_NOODLES
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Image Notes
1. little go kart built for 4 year olds, also useful for research into full size kart
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Step 1:Stuff you will need
The first thing you need to do is to gather all the parts, as it makes it much easier to design if you can lay out all the parts where they will be on the kart and kind of "join
the dots"....
Materials you will need:
25 or 30mm Square Steel
Aluminum Sheet 1.6mm thick
19mm and 25mm Steel Tubing
25mm solid
30mm bright solid (If you want to make your rear axle)
13mm tube or pipe.
lots of 6mm and 8mm nuts and bolts
Parts you will need: (Screen shot are includes as the ebay links can go dead)
Axel (You can find these second hand on eBay for about $50 or new for $150 - $200)
30mm hubs
Sprocket or disc carrier
sprockets chain and clutch
Mechanical Brake Caliper With Brake Pads & Cable
Go Kart Brake Disc
Self Align Pillow Block Bearing 30mm
4 Wheels (These can be quite expensive, new and second hand. A used set can cost you up to and over $100 on eBay)
4 Tires (You can find these on eBay, a new set can cost up to and over $300, but if you get a used set they can cost less than $100 or free)
Steering Wheel (You can get a cheap second hand wheel for about $20 on eBay)
Seat (You can use any seat you can find but we are using a fiberglass seat. You can get one on eBay for about $40)
Engine (We are using a mower engine which you can off an old mower or look on eBay for a few dollars)
Tools we used.
Drill press
Metal Lathe
Tap and die
Hack saw
Grinder
MIG welder
Cordless drill
Roller
Image Notes
1. Back Wheel
2. Seat
3. Steering Wheel
4. Front Wheels
5. Engine and Sprocket
6. Axel
7. Wheel Hubs
8. Sprocket and sprocket mount
9. Axel Mounts
10. Disk Brake and Disk Brake Mount
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-design-and-build-a-go-kart/
Step 2:Steering Geometry
Getting the steering geometry correct on your Kart is one of the most important consideration when designing the frame. If you don't get it right you Kart will not turn but
plough straight ahead. Unlike a car the rear wheels do not have a differential but are locked together and always spin at the same speed, this requires some cleaver
engineering to make the inside rear wheel lift of the ground when turning and allowing the front of the kart to turn in.
Understeer happens when the front of a car tends to go straight on when you turn the wheel into a corner. You can feel the tires scrubbing against the tarmac. Most
modern cars are front wheel drive and they tend to understeer. Its inherently quite safe, as the speed is scrubbed off, and as long as theres enough road, the tires will
eventually grip and turn the car the way you want!
Oversteer
This happens when the back end of the car slides away from the direction of the turn. Rear wheel drive cars are much more prone to this. Its less safe than understeer,
because it can be the prelude to a spin, and suddenly lifting off the power (which is a natural reaction) can actually cause the spin as they tires bite. Cars like the
Porsche 911, where the weight is all behind the back axle are prone to this.
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Camber
Camber is the angle of the wheel relative to vertical, as viewed from the front or the rear of the car. If the wheel leans in towards the chassis, it has negative camber; if it
leans away from the car, it has positive camber. so on a Go Kart it should be 0. in the middle of both positive and negative.
Caster
Positive caster angle is best illustrated by the rearward tilt of the steering fork on a bicycle. Positive caster obviously places the front wheel ahead of its pivot point and
most vehicles are designed with positive caster angle. Its defined as the angle created by the steering's pivot point from the front to back of the vehicle. Caster is
positive if the line is angled forward, and negative if backward.
The Kingpins on a kart should be laid back at the top 12-15 degrees
Toe out on turns
When the vehicle negotiates a curve, the inner wheel turns more sharply and while the wheels remain in this position, the wheels will toe out, and will return to the correct
toe in when the the steering wheel is returned to the straight ahead position. This is achieved by angling the steering arms toward the center of the rear axle this will cover
in step 12
Wheel Jacking
Wheel Jacking or Weight Jacking is related to the caster and the kingpin inclination, which controls the ability to turn and lift the inside back wheel off the ground
according to which way you turn. Having a solid rear axle causes the wheels to spin at the same rate, so you need the inside rear wheel to lift off the ground which
enables the kart able to go around corners.
K.P.I.
The kingpin inclination angle, together with the caster angle, creates the phenomena of the return of the wheels to straight position after a steering operation, it also tends
to maintain this position after an impact with an obstacle that attempts to alter the trajectory,
Set up
So you will need 10 degress KPI and 12-15 caster we will show you how to set this up in step 9. If you plan to make your own stub axles you will need to make sure that
the camber is set up a 0 degrees and the ackerman angle is correct. this will be covered in step 12
Image Notes
1. Wheel Jacking
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Image Notes
1. The go Kart should be set up with the wheels going up and down.
0 Camber
Image Notes
1. the inside wheel has to turn more than the outside wheel as it travels a smaller
arc
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-design-and-build-a-go-kart/
Image Notes
1. Note that the steering arms point toward the center of the rear axle
Step 3:Designing the frame
This is the design that we did for the go kart we got the distant of the wheels (wheel base and Track) from a internet deign of a go kart. We based the frame off previous
go karts and scaled model go kart. We are making the frame out of 30mm square tubing and 25mm round tubing and 19mm round tubing for seat supports and the
steering column just to make it easier to work with.
So few things to consider, first the wheel base and track need to be approximately the same as a race kart, so 1040mm wheel base, and around 680mm between
the king pins. This will give us the best handling kart as most race kart are pretty close to that size.
The front wheels need space to move as they steer, you don't want a tire rubbing on the frame.
Multiple bend are difficult to make so keep the frame a simple as possible
The rear axile is likely to bend if the bearings are too far from the wheels, make the frame wide at the back.
Four stroke engines a wider than race kart engines and are difficult to fit on the side of the kart
The chain has to be able to be adjusted
The rest of the design it up to you as long as everything fits (including the driver) and the kart looks good the rest of the measurements are not that important at
this stage
It is useful to draw everything full size on a workbench and lay all the part and driver out so you can kind of "join the dots"
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The driver is the most important part, so the driving position should be comfortable and the top of the steering wheel around shoulder height arms and legs slightly
bent
The steering angles have to be correct but more on that later.
Image Notes
1. Class whiteboard sketch
Image Notes
1. A good way to start the design is to gett all the parts first
Image Notes
1. This deign has too may bends and would be very difficult to make
Image Notes
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-design-and-build-a-go-kart/
Image Notes
1. Again too complicated but has some great info. wheel base, track, width and
other measurements which we used.
1. Hard to see but first draft of the design is drawn on the bench
Image Notes
1. Full size design is drawn on plywood
Image Notes
1. Now the parts can be cut and placed on top
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Image Notes
1. Blocks of wood are then screwed to the plywood to stop each part moving
around
Step 4:Frame Jig
The Jig for the frame is very important, it holds all your frame parts so they don't move and keeps every thing flat, straight and square.
Fortunately a jig is not to difficult to make, You just need a sheet of plywood or MDF, some small blocks of wood and some screws.
Start by drawing a center line down the middle of the sheet and use that line for all your measurements and angles.
Draw your kart frame full size, and put your motor, seat, axles, pedals and driver on the board as well to check everything is going to fit.
Its much easier to change the drawing now that change the frame later on.
Once you have checked and rechecked that the drawing is correct, you can start cutting steel and laying it on top of the drawing.
We decided to put the engine behind the rear axle which is an unusual design but works really well
The engine mount can be made with four 30mm square tubes. We used four 9mm drills as spaces so the engine bolts slide between the tubes.
It very important to then lock each piece into place with three blocks of wood so accurate measurements can be taken to cut other parts. This is especially helpful
if you have several people working on the project, as they can see what is missing and a quick measure and they can go away and cut that part
Image Notes
1. The driver is the most important part so make sure he fits
Image Notes
1. We decided to put the engine behind the rear axle which is an unusual design
but works really well
Image Notes
1. draw everything full size.
Image Notes
1. Work off a table there is no need to crawl around on the floor
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-design-and-build-a-go-kart/
Image Notes
1. now you can start measuring the parts
Image Notes
1. Place each piece on top of the design
Image Notes
1. Use blocks of wood to hold the parts in place
Image Notes
1. more blocks of wood
Image Notes
1. Get every part fasten down
Image Notes
1. double check everything fits
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Image Notes
1. The front axle tube is the most difficult thing to get right
2. The engine mount can be made with four 30mm square tubes
Image Notes
1. The engine mount bolts slide between the rails. The drill bits are used as
spaces
Image Notes
1. Any mistakes or gaps need to be filled with metal
Image Notes
1. The axle tube has to fit nicely into the king pins
Image Notes
1. The axle tube needs to have a cut out for the kingpin to fit into
Image Notes
1. Every part need to fit before welding can start. Note the bumper is been use as
a jig
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Image Notes
1. The top bar is bolted on so the bumper can be removed
Step 5:King pins
The king pins are the pivots for the front wheels :) The size that we needed the king pins had to be 50mm in length and 25mm in diameter
Start by cutting a 55mm lengths off a steel solid round.
Using the lathe and the pieces you just cut off, you now use them to create the hole in the middle, the hole should be 8mm in diameter, start off with the center
drill and create a hole about 10mm in
Using a 8mm drill bit you can create the rest of the hole, make sure to lube it up every now and then otherwise you can break the drill bit
Now that you have your hole use the cutting tool on the lathe to face each end to take off the excess 5mm
Sand off the sharp bits and now you have your first king pin
Repeat from step one to create your second one :D
Image Notes
1. The king pins are just 25mm solid with an 8mm hole. this one needs to be face
to remove the rough saw caut
Image Notes
1. First use a center drill on the kingpin
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Image Notes
1. Centre Dril bit
Image Notes
1. Its important to use a center drill first
Image Notes
1. 8mm drill bit
Image Notes
1. Then each end needs to be faced
Image Notes
1. Engineering drawing in prodesktop
Image Notes
1. 3D design in pro desktop
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2. Engineering drawing in prodesktop
Step 6:Steering Bush
By BrinkEgde
We are making the Steering Bush for our class Go Kart. We are using the program PTC to recreate the Steering Bush with a 3D printer.
After making the steering bush, you will have to remove scaffold on the steering bush and file the holes slightly because the 3D printer make the holes about 1 or 2 %
undersize.
if you don't have access to a 3D printer the steering bush are quite cheap to buy you could try ebay or a karting store. There are a few different styles and they generally
come in 2 different shaft sizes, 19mm 20mm. So check you have correct size tube and steering hub so everything fits together
Image Notes
1. I (BrinkEdge) and HDinosaur, are going to recreate this steering bush using
PTC and a 3D printer.
Image Notes
1. It took us a little while, but with help from the teacher, we mangage to recreate
the steering bush on PTC
Image Notes
1. A different angle of the PTC steering bush
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Image Notes
1. A nice view of our plastic sterring bush.
2. A nice view of our plastic steering bush.
Image Notes
1. finished product
Image Notes
1. You will have too file the small hole out, because the 3D printer fills it up
Image Notes
1. This is what it looks like before you take off the excess plastic
File Downloads
steering pivot.stl (316 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'steering pivot.stl']
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-design-and-build-a-go-kart/
Step 7:Steering Column
The steering column was rather easy to make, it was just a little bit difficult to get the measurements correct. It took around three hours to make and around half an hour
to shape and put the holes in it. Below is a screen shot of how much a Go kart Steering column would cost brand new on eBay.
We drilled the holes in it with a drill press set on a low speed. Once the holes were done we started cutting it into its basic shape just by putting it in a vice and
using a hacksaw.
We were pretty much finished, all we had to do now was get a file and curve the edges so it looked better. The Steering Arm was now finished and ready to be put
onto the steering column.
The steering column is just a piece of 19mm tube with a bolt welded in the bottom, make it longer than you need as you can always cut it down when you fit the
steering wheel
We used a drill press as a jig to hold everything straight while welding.
Image Notes
1. Measurements and shape of steering arm.
Image Notes
1. Cost of a new steering column on Ebay
Image Notes
1. 19mm Hole saw was used on a low speed with lots of lube
Image Notes
1. Then the shape was cut out with a hacksaw
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Image Notes
1. The basic shape
Image Notes
1. Just a bit more filing needed
Image Notes
1. Steering arm on the column
Image Notes
1. Getting the bolt into place
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Image Notes
1. Drill press being used as a jig, steering column NOT parallel to the post
Image Notes
1. Welding a bolt into end of steering column, using the drill press as jig
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Image Notes
1. Drill press being used as a jig, steering column parallel to the post
Step 8:Steering hub
The steering hub is the part connecting the steering column and steering wheel. We are making ours out of a chunk of aluminum, but if you are unable to make it they sell
for on ebay steering hub. The steering hub was made on a lathe out of a cast piece of aluminum, and do take a bit of time to make.
A few pointer to success,
Go kart steering columns come in two diameters 19mm and 20mm. so make sure your steering bush and tube are the right size before you start.
We used the steering wheel as a jig to get the mounting holes in the correct place.
Mark the location of the first hole and use a 5 mm drill and 6mm tap to put a thread in the hub
Bolt the steering wheel on and use a 6 mm drill to mark the center of the other 2 holes.
You can then drill the other 2 holes 5mm and tap them with a 6mm tap.
One side of the steering hub has a large hole in it. this is so the head of the cap screw tightens up on the tube not the hub. This has the effect of slightly crushing
the tube inside the hub and making a tight fit that does not come lose.
The hub can be removed by removing the cap screw.
Image Notes
Image Notes
1. Able to find on Ebay :D
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1. The fisihed product. It has some tape on it to protect the polished finish.
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Image Notes
1. Piece of Cast aluminum.
Image Notes
1. Face the end to start with
Image Notes
1. If the steering wheel has a hole in the center, a locating pin will center the
steering wheel
Image Notes
1. The steering wheel in for a test fit
Image Notes
1. The hub is turned around an drilled from the back
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Image Notes
1. The final shape roughed out
Image Notes
1. Aluminum polishes up quite nice.
Image Notes
1. mark the center of the hole with a 6mm drill
Image Notes
1. You can then drill the hole 5mm (ignore the sharpie marks)
Image Notes
1. Now tap the first hole
Image Notes
1. You can then bolt the steering wheel on and mark out the other holes with a 6
mm drill
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Image Notes
1. You can then drill and tap the other 2 holes
Step 9:King pin Jigs
Setting up the king pin angles is the most important part of building your kart, No matter how good your kart looks, if it wont go around corners, it will not be any fun.
Just cut your self 2 plates and drill 4 holes so that they can be screwed down to your frame jig. Then weld an 8mm bright steel rod to your plate making sure you
get the 2 angles right.
K.P.I. or king pin inclination is the angle that the top of the rod leans in toward the center of the frame and should be 10 degrees.
The caster angle lean the rod back towards the back of the frame and should be 12-15 degrees.
These two jigs are a mirror image of each other so make sure you mark them left and right. The can be quite difficult to get the angles right, so spend a bit of time
checking that they are correct, so you don't end up with a kart that doesn't turn one way properly or wants to drive in circles when you let the steering wheel go.
Many first time builders have told me that my steering angles don't look right, trust me they look a little weird the first time you see them but if you weld the kingpins on
straight up and down your kart will not turn or steer.
You will find two drawings that you can download and print out which will help you to get the angles right if you don't have a protractor.
Image Notes
1. 10 degrees in at the top
Image Notes
1. 15 degrees toward the back at the top
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File Downloads
Preview of 15 degress.bmp.pdf (23 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Preview of 15 degress.bmp.pdf']
Preview of 10 degress.bmp.pdf (22 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Preview of 10 degress.bmp.pdf']
Step 10:Fun with tube
We used 25mm OD tube for the front and rear bumpers and 19 mm OD for the top bumper mount, seat mount, steering column and steering column mounts. Using a
tube bender can be a little tricky, you have to remember that each bend has a beginning and an end and it uses up material as you bend it. So it is a good Idea to remove
the die from the machine and lay it on your Jig to give yourself a better idea of where the tube will lay after it is bent. Also cut more tube than you think you will need as
you can always cut a bit of each end to get it to fit.
The first bend is easy, its the second one on the same tube that you realy need to think about.
Make sure you think about where the bend starts, as Ive lots of students bend the second curve in the wrong place and the bumpers end up too wide. (By the
same distance as the width of the die)
To get the two bends exactly the same angle and length it can be useful to draw around the bumper and then flip it over, as it give you a great visual on the
symmetry of the part your making.
Another tip is if you over bend the tube and need to straighten it a few degrees give the bend good smack on a concrete floor (it works surprisingly well)
The end of the 19mm tube can be crushed in a press and drilled to use for seat and steering column mounts. Just remember to round of the sharp edges as it will
rip trough a go kart seat or your leg if left with those sharp corners on them.
Image Notes
1. The first bend is easy just get the angle right. The second bend is far more
difficult Mark out where the bend begins
Image Notes
1. Make sure the tube is in the bender flat or you will end up with a twisted
bumper
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Image Notes
1. Marking the bench like this is a good way to check the angle and length of each
bend
Image Notes
1. Just flip the tube over and you can see if the angle and length are the same
Image Notes
1. if the tube is over bent you can straighten it by wacking it on the floor as shown
Image Notes
1. The seat can be mounted with tubes that have one end crushed
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Image Notes
1. Just crush the end of the tube in a press or big vice
Image Notes
1. The ends can then be drilled and sharp edges removed
Image Notes
1. You can probably skip this step
Step 11:Pedals
The pedals are made out of 13mm steel pipe and were heated by a Oxy acetylene gas plant and bent into shape. We copied a racing kart pedal, so they have a bend in
the upright to stop[ your foot from sliding off the side of the pedal. The pedals are a mirror image of each other, and have a piece of flat with holes for the brake and
throttle cable.
The holes allow you to adjust the way the brake and throttle responds, as you can have a very hard brake pedal (when adjusted to the top hole ) or a soft brake
pedal if the cable is fitted to the lower holes.
If you don't have a pedal to copy, you can use a piece of wire to create a template then you can have custom pedal to match your foot.
The 2 bends are 90 and 135 degrees.
Use a piece of pipe as a handle when bending your tube.
Care need to be taken so the tube bends without collapsing. Heat the tube all the way around and move the heat along the tube as you bend.
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Image Notes
1. Go kart pedal from a factory
Image Notes
1. Using the pedal as a template.
Image Notes
1. Use a pipe as a handle.
Image Notes
1. Carefully heat all the way around
Image Notes
1. Use your pedal or wire template to get the angle right
Image Notes
1. Nearly finished bending
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Image Notes
1. Make sure to use gloves, its hot
Image Notes
1. the tag on the side can be used as a pedal stop
Image Notes
1. A piece of tube can be used for the pivot
Image Notes
1. The two pedals are a mirror image of each other
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Step 12:Stub axels
You can make your own stub axles, or buy them ready made. It is much easier to make them in four pieces as shown in the the photo and use the stub axle jig, the king
pin and the wheel to hold the parts in place while welding. On our kart we drilled a hole in the end of the axle, tapped a 10mm thread and used a bolt to fasten the wheel
on.
When welding use the wheel without a tire as a jig, it should sit flat on the bench when the wheel is in the straight ahead position.
The angles will look a little strange (not square) , this is normal.
The two steering arms should be welded on last, with the holes from the kingpin, and end of the steering arm forming and imaginary line to the center of the rear
axle
The drawings have all the dimensions you need
Image Notes
1. all the parts required to make one stub axle
Image Notes
1. Turn the stub in a lathe the drawings have all the measurements you need
Image Notes
1. Tap a thread in the end of the stub
Image Notes
1. You will need to make 2
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Image Notes
1. The king pin will help hold everything while you weld
Image Notes
1. Use the stub axle jig, the king pin and the wheel to hold the parts in place
Image Notes
1. We use blocks of wood to hold the wheel straight. Also the stub was cut on an
angle so that it is easier to weld (no gaps)
Image Notes
1. Tack everything into place. Note the left and right stubs are a mirror image
of each other
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Image Notes
1. Note that the steering arms point toward the center of the rear axle
Image Notes
1. Final check over
Image Notes
1. ready to be removed from the jig and fully welded
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Step 13:Brakes
We used a cable brake caliper designed for use on cheap go karts, fun karts or buggies. The mount doesn't take long to make, and has to be strong enough to keep the
brake caliper straight and take a far amount of abuse. It also needs to have a hole in the middle so the brake pad adjustment screw can be access.
We used a large hole saw on the drill press on its lowest speed to cut the large hole.
Use cutting fluid or lubricant on the hole saw to keep it cool or it will rip all the teeth off as it over heats.
The two mounting holes are 80mm apart between centers
We used 100mm x 6mm flat mild steel
The corners are cut off for safety and it also looks better than having the end square.
Don't weld the mount on until after the the axle and brake disc is bolted on.
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Image Notes
1. Drill press with hole saw. The steel is clamped to a piece of wood
Image Notes
1. Use lot of lube to keep the saw cool
Image Notes
1. Cuts through like butter
Image Notes
1. The two 8mm holes are 80mm apart
Image Notes
1. Cutting the corners off will make it look better and will stop you cutting yourself
on the sharp corners
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Step 14:Welding
We are using a MIG to weld our go kart together as they are a very quick welder there a lot quicker than and ark welder, and you don't have knock the slag off after your
finished welding.
If you have never done any welding before it is worthwhile getting a few hours practice before you start welding the frame. Before you start make sure all the parts
fit, if you have any large gaps either cut a small piece to fill in the hole or cut a new piece of steel.
This is not a project you want to learn to weld on, if the kart falls in half while your driving it would no be dangerous but also hilarious.
It is really important that you tack the whole frame together and check that everything is straight and square.
Use the seat as a jig by bolting the the supports to the seat and tacking them in place. The seat can then be removed
Don't weld the brake caliper or the arm on the steering column until the rest of the kart is assembled.
Image Notes
1. If you need to learn to weld practice on some scrap not your kart frame
Image Notes
1. spark are fun.... when they go in your shorts!
Image Notes
1. Tack the whole frame together first
Image Notes
1. Flip the kart over and tack some more
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Image Notes
1. Big gaps like this need to be filled with a piece of metal before welding
Image Notes
1. The engine mount bolts slide between the rails. The drill bits are used as
spaces
Image Notes
1. Tack weld everything
Image Notes
1. The seat can be used as a jig
Image Notes
1. Its worth giving everything a final check that it fits while its tacked together
Image Notes
1. Make sure the nut behind the wheel also still fits
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Image Notes
1. looks like it all good to fully weld
Image Notes
1. Once everything is tacked and checked the seat can be removed and the whole
kart welded up fully
Step 15:Floor and chain guard
You kart will need a floor so weld in some tabs so it can be bolted on with 6mm bolts and nylock nuts. The floor and chain guard are made with 1.2mm thick aluminium
sheet, and is left unpainted as the paint would soon wear off near the pedals as your shoes rub against it, and aluminium looks cool anyway.
You will need 10 or 12 tabs and 6mm bolts, with nylock nuts
The tabs are made from 25mm x 3 m flat
Make sure you round off the ends or as the sharp corners will cut and crack the floor.
The Kart frame can be layed on top of the aluminium sheet and traced around with a sharpie to get the shape of the floor.
It can then be cut out with a nibbler. Again look out for those sharp bits.
Image Notes
1. Checking the floor tabs
Image Notes
1. The tabs are just a bit flat with a 6mm hole and rounded off at one end
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Image Notes
1. welding on the floor tabs
Image Notes
1. cutting out the the floor with a nibbler
Step 16:Assembly
In this step we made sure that everything fits probably and finished off the welding and assembled the motor and axle. One of the things we should of documented a bit
better is how to build the rear axle, But it is one of the easiest parts of the kart so you shouldn't have any problems with it. We used 1meter of 30m solid bright mild steel,
and fitted the sprocket, brake disc bearing and wheel hubs. We then fitted this to the kart and slid the sprocket and brake disc to the correct positions. The axle then had
these position marked and it was then sent off to a machine shop to have the key-ways cut in the shaft.
The position of the can be changed a little forward or back to fit the driver.
The axle and engine must be straight and square when fitted.
The floor and seat can be fitted.
Keep the chain as short as possible.
The engine need to be fitted with large washers under the frame.
One of the last things to weld on is the brake caliper mount. Use the caliper and disc as a jig, and put a spacer under the caliper while welding to keep the spacing
on the brake pads correct.
Use a cable tie to hold the brake pads tight on the disc, this will ensure the caliper is straight, the mount can now be tacked in place
Image Notes
1. Checking everything fits
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Image Notes
1. checking the pedals are a good length and are in a good postion
Image Notes
1. I see crazy people
Image Notes
1. Axle assembly
Image Notes
1. everything getting bolted on
Image Notes
1. Most major parts fitted
Image Notes
1. Bumpers on
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Image Notes
1. Almost all done
Image Notes
1. Chains on
Image Notes
1. Make sure the engine has large flat washers under the frame
Image Notes
1. Use the caliper and the disc as a jig
Image Notes
1. As spacer will stop the caliper from rubbing on the disc
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Image Notes
1. The cable tie holds the caliper pads tight on the disc, the mount can now be
tacked in place
Step 17:Steering arms
The steering arms are made from thick walled 1/2 inch tube with bolts welded into each end. They are not too difficult to make but they need to be the correct length and
the bolts need to welded on perfectly straight. If you are able to buy two left hand threaded bolts and nuts, put a left and a right hand threaded bolt on each end, and you
will be able to adjust the toe in with out removing the steering arms.
Unfortunately we could not find any left hand threaded bolts locally, so to adjust the toe in, one end of the steering arm has to be disconnected.
First bolt the rod ends to the kart and screw the adjustment bolts in half way into the rod ends.
With the wheels straight ahead and the steering wheel centered carefully measure the length of of tube needed .
Also move the arm on the steering column up or down so that the pivot points on each stub axle and the steering column are in a straight line.
Both tubes should be the same length, if you have a tube cutting or lathe it will be easy to get the ends nice a square.
We used a drill press to hold the bolt straight and tack welded it into place
Repeat on all four ends and check everything is straight and the right length (test fit on the kart) before fully wielding.
Image Notes
1. If you can get two left hand thread rod ends nuts and bolts put one on each
steering arm.
Image Notes
1. Measure the tubes with the rod end bolted on and the bolt wound in about half
way. Make sure the the wheels are straight ahead, and the arm on the steering
column is centered
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Image Notes
1. Also move the arm on the steering column up or down so that the pivot points
on each stub axle and the steering column are in a straight line.
Image Notes
1. Using the drill press as a jig
Image Notes
1. The bolt needs to be perfectly straight
Image Notes
1. this arm can be tack welded when everything is straght
Image Notes
1. Final checks before welding
Image Notes
1. Try and keep the pivot points as straight as possible
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Step 18:The little stuff
Its the little stuff that can be quite time consuming, Attaching the pedals in the correct spot, pedal stops, making the steering arms, cable holders, fitting the steering wheel
to the correct height and attaching the brake can be fiddly.
A throttle cable can be connected to the governor arm. We used a bicycle brake cable and a screw down electrical connector with the plastic removed.
The steering wheel can be bolted on The cap screw crushes the tube inside the hub, to give it a tight fit.
Image Notes
1. The steering hub can now be bolted on
Image Notes
1. The cap screw crushes the tube inside the hub
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Step 19:Testing
Our first run went really well, the only things that were a slight worry was that a small screw came loose underneath the steering wheel and the back wheel slid slightly
down the axle so nothing disastrous happened and nothing came off. For a first run, we couldn't of asked for a better go. The kart reached up to 40 km/h so it went really
well.
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Step 20:Fitting racing bodywork
This wont make your kart go any faster but it makes it look faster. We got the body work from an online store and for around $190 you have got to as yourself is it worth
it? Well it looks cool but thats about it.
The front bumper simply clips on as it has the same mounts as the old bumper, but brackets have to be made for the side pods and front panel.
Not to difficult but the two side pods will have to be mounted exactly the same distance from the back wheel and the same height and angle or your eye will pick it as
been "wrong"
Make sure the karts tires are pumped up or sit the frame on blocks so the side pods are the same height from the ground.
Don't weld anything until all the parts are made and fit correctly
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Step 21:Strip down
At this stage the Kart has been tested and it preformed well and no modifications are needed, so we are going to strip it down and get it ready to paint. It is also a good
opportunity to check that all the welds have been done properly, grind off any sharp edges, and give everything a good clean and check over.
On our kart someone did a very poor job of cutting the bars for the side pods, so some tube was cut to fill in the gaps so it could be welded properly.
It a good idea to put all the parts and the bolts that go with them, into containers and label everything to make it easier to assemble.
The frame must be cleaned with a solvent to remove any oil or grease and given a quick sand to help the paint "key" to the surface of the steel.
Go kart frames are quite difficult to paint as there are lot of difficult angles so make sure to check that you haven't missed spots before packing up the spray gun
Give the paint time to harden up before assembling I recommend a couple days sitting in the hot sun.
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Step 22:Paint
Painting a gokart frame is is quite difficult as there are so many tubes and funny angles for you to miss. Even hanging the frame up to paint, is not going to cut it as there
is always something thats not painted. I recommend painting everything you can see and fliping the frame over, even if you have it hanging from wires. We ended up
painting the bottom side first on a table then flipping the frame over, as it was easier than trying to paint it while hanging.
There are a few tricks to using a spray gun as it has a number of adjustment, But first make sure you stir the paint and thin it correctly with the recommend thinners. The
paint can will usually tell you what % to thin your paint for spraying.
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Step 23:Reassemble
Only a couple of thinks left to do reassemble the kart, and then check everything before you go racing, things to check include
The toe in should be set at 0 degrees or slightly toeing out 1or 2 degrees.
Chain should be adjust and aligned so the sprockets are parallel and on the same plane.
Brake cable needs to be double checked
Throttle cable needs to adjust so the pedal reaches it stop, to protect the carburetor butterfly from damage.
Throttle also needs to be checked to make sure it cannot be stuck wide open.
Every nut bolt and screw needs to be checked every time you take the kart out, as karts are subject to lots of vibration things tend to work lose.
Petrol, oil, tire pressures and lets go racing!
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Step 24:Racing Photos
We were lucky enough to get to a few hours at a race track, and the Kart preformed really well, despite the photos due to a crappy camera! Even thought the kart has
only four horse power, it was more than enough to spin out in the corners if your not careful. The wheels didnt fall off and there were not mechanical problems on the
day.
The Students had a great time and one kid said "I never thought the drive a kart could be so much fun"!.... then she went a did another 50 laps.
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Comments
37 comments Add Comment
knoakes says: Jun 29, 2014. 3:24 AM REPLY
Great instructable...well done team and what a cool school project!
Pc_NOODLES says: Jun 10, 2014. 4:43 PM REPLY
Very well made, if i dont say so myself :) congrats to the whole team
liquidhandwash says: Jun 18, 2014. 4:01 PM REPLY
Thanks Hugh , you guys did all the work
spylock says: Jun 18, 2014. 1:29 PM REPLY
Nice cart,I use to drive as a sub at a little cart track in Ashland VA;It is,or was a pretty fast track,and you have something there as to where you can have a
lot of fun,be careful,and good job.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-design-and-build-a-go-kart/
crazy_inventor says: Jun 16, 2014. 2:18 AM REPLY
This was a very instructive instructable!
Good work!
jonsonhenli says: Jun 15, 2014. 10:11 AM REPLY
Have video?
liquidhandwash says: Jun 15, 2014. 3:43 PM REPLY
i might be able to dig one up.
backflip11 says: Jun 13, 2014. 8:20 PM REPLY
Oh I see
backflip11 says: Jun 13, 2014. 3:56 PM REPLY
Dose it have a clutch
liquidhandwash says: Jun 13, 2014. 6:52 PM REPLY
No this kart doesnt just give it a push and your off, just like many race karts.
Wroger-Wroger says: Jun 10, 2014. 7:42 PM REPLY
I hope this comes with a harness - as the idea of taking a decent crash into something that produces a hard stop - and the steeling wheel and the bracing for
that looks - unpleasant to bang into.
Do they come with a harness?
liquidhandwash says: Jun 12, 2014. 1:12 AM REPLY
Karts are like motor cycles, they don't have seat-belts. if you want to know why have a look at
http://gokartguru.com/blog/?p=77
sdobbie says: Jun 10, 2014. 7:36 AM REPLY
Not much use if the kart isn't electric.
cardesnr99 says: Jun 10, 2014. 2:25 PM REPLY
I think if they post a video of it in action, they can probably disprove your observation...
sdobbie says: Jun 11, 2014. 3:12 AM REPLY
Hobbyking sells the rotomax 9.8kw electric motor which is 12hp. Couple that with 2 kwh worth of lipo's and it would smoke the petrol kart
liquidhandwash says: Jun 11, 2014. 8:25 PM REPLY
Have an Idea on the cost for a motor, controller, batterys and a charger?
fatdaddynerd says: Jun 11, 2014. 1:25 PM REPLY
that depends on how far you want to go...
cardesnr99 says: Jun 11, 2014. 5:18 PM REPLY
...which depends also on how fat you are, Daddy!
cardesnr99 says: Jun 11, 2014. 5:17 PM REPLY
Seems that my glib reply was deleted??!!!??
Anyway, and I'll try to be a bit more political, ironically...
My response did not deal with speed. It merely dealt with functionality. It runs, it moves under its own power, it's valid. If "faster" is a criteria, then
the sky's the limit. Speaking of "smoke", there's nothing like the scent of unburned hydrocarbons, in my book. Not even o3.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-design-and-build-a-go-kart/
clazman says: Jun 10, 2014. 10:17 PM REPLY
Great result! The team did a nice job!
One complaint I have is that CAD (or a "hand" drawing) doesn't appear to have been used. It would been a great help in eliminating many of the guessing
situations, for instance the use of the reverse engineering of using the steering wheel geometry to locate the holes in the steering hub.. However, the several
jigs mentioned did indicate the group's awareness for control of geometry. Again, CAD would have helped in their design.
liquidhandwash says: Jun 10, 2014. 10:47 PM REPLY
Every time i build a kart with the kids, the design is different, some have had the engine on the side, most have the engine in front of the axle and behind
the seat. This one the engine is behind the axle, so the design is drawn full size on plywood. Ive build around 50 karts with kids, and i found this is the
most reliable way to get a good result, in the time i have avalable. Unfortunately a great looking drawing, sometimes doesn't mean a great kart, many of
the plans off the web are just rubbish.
User1 says: Jun 10, 2014. 1:44 PM REPLY
+1
Great job on this guys! I hope everyone that was involved with the project fit in it and was able to drive it. Hope you can post a video.
liquidhandwash says: Jun 10, 2014. 6:06 PM REPLY
thanks, every on was able to fit, a couple of shorty's had to stretch for the pedals
hix1214 says: Jun 10, 2014. 7:12 AM REPLY
Did you get a 2 or 4 cycle engine
liquidhandwash says: Jun 10, 2014. 6:05 PM REPLY
It a 4 cycles 4 hp brigs and stration
BikeHacker says: Jun 10, 2014. 6:54 AM REPLY
How fast does it go?
liquidhandwash says: Jun 10, 2014. 6:04 PM REPLY
around 50 kph
hix1214 says: Jun 10, 2014. 7:10 AM REPLY
If more people would race like me.
wav640 says: Jun 10, 2014. 4:53 AM REPLY
Nice explained.
nodcah says: Jun 9, 2014. 10:11 AM REPLY
Voted! This a beautifully documented ible! Really well done! :-)
liquidhandwash says: Jun 9, 2014. 3:50 PM REPLY
thank you
Kirkthepyro says: Jun 9, 2014. 6:00 AM REPLY
You can acquire wheels for $5 each if you know where to look. I suggest you look in Harbor Freight's online catalog or store before building this. steering
wheels can be found cheaper at a local junkyard, because you can haggle over prices. Many other items listed here can be found much cheaper if you think
creatively. If you don't have the tools, Harbor Freight sells those cheaply, too.
liquidhandwash says: Jun 9, 2014. 3:50 PM REPLY
we don't have a harbor freight in Australia , but your right you can get tht e parts cheap if you look hard enogh
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-design-and-build-a-go-kart/
Tarun Upadhyaya says: Jun 9, 2014. 8:44 AM REPLY
Brilliant work :), great instructions.
doodlecraft says: Jun 9, 2014. 5:13 AM REPLY
Amazing! Great step by step!
motoring says: May 8, 2014. 3:22 AM REPLY
The Kart is excellent a great instructable
liquidhandwash says: May 8, 2014. 2:45 PM REPLY
Thanks keith