The Emma Doll

by

Stephanie Davies
of

A bag full of crochet

The Emma Doll

By

Stephanie Davies
of

A bag full of crochet

Pattern difficulty:
Moderate
Measurements:
From head to heel: 23cm
Materials:
1 ball of Vinnis Colours Nikkim,
100% cotton, 119m/50g, DK in
Sand (578) for the body.
Vinnis Colours Nikkim, 100% cotton,
119m/50g, DK in shades of blue,
such as Pacific Blue (548), Pale
Blue-Green (518) and Washed Denim
(513) for the dress, underwear and
socks.
Vinnis Colours Nikkim, 100% cotton,
119m/50g, DK in Raspberry (559) for
the shoes and to make lips.
African Expressions Hope, 80% kid
mohair 20%polyamide, lace weight,
25g per ball, in shade 6137 for the hair.
2 6mm safety eyes
Hook: 3.5mm
Stitch marker or safety pin
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Fibrefill

Pattern notes:
As this is an amigurumi pattern
the tension should be tighter than
normal so that the stuffing is not
visible, hence the use of the smaller
hook size.
If the holes between decreases are
very noticeable change to a hook
half a size smaller, this will close
the gaps.
A stitch marker placed at the end
of the round will help keep track of
rounds and stitches. Simply move
it up each round as you work.
The colours and yarns used are
simply a suggestion. However
using yarns of different weight will
change the dolls size. You will also
need to change hook size if you
change yarn weight.
The clothing is removable.
Special stitches:
Foundation single crochet:
Ch 2, insert hk in 2nd ch from hk,
pull up lp, yo, draw through 1 lp
(the ch), yo, draw through 2 lps
(the sc), *insert hk under 2 lps of
the ch st of last st and pull up lp,
yo, draw through 1 lp, yo, draw
through 2lps; rep from * for length
of foundation.

Extended single crochet:

Insert hk into next st, yo and pull up
lp, draw through 1lp on hk, yo, and
draw through both lps on hook.
Front and back loop single crochet:
Insert hk only through the front or
back loop of the st, as indicated in
the directions.
Magic ring:
Make a large loop with the end of the
yarn lying under the working yarn.
Hold the loop with your thumb and
forefinger, insert the hook under the
yarn end and pull the working yarn
through to create a loop. Slip stitch
1 to lock the loop. Treat the looped
yarn as a closed chain and work the
required number of stitches into the
loop. Once you have completed the
stitches pull the yarn end to tighten
the loop thus closing the hole.
Increase:
Increases are made by placing 2 dc
stitches into the same stitch from the
previous round.

Abbreviations:
blp sc - back loop single crochet
ch - chain
col - colour
dc - double crochet
ext sc - extended single crochet
flp sc - front loop single crochet
fsc - foundation single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
hk - hook
inc - increase
invd - invisible decrease
lp(s) - loop(s)
rep - repeat
sk - skip
slst - slip stitch
st(s) - stitch(es)
yo - yarn over hook

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Invisible decrease:
Working with the next two available
stitches, insert hook through front
loop of first stitch; do not draw up
a loop. Insert hook through front
loop of second stitch (3 loops on
hook). Yarn over hook. Pull through
both front loops (2 loops on hook).
Yarn over hook, pull through both
loops on hook. Invisible decrease
made.
Closing body parts:
Cut the yarn with enough length to
weave in the end. Use the tapestry
needle and insert the needle through
the front loops of each stitch. Pull the
opening tight and weave in the end,
varying the direction so that it does
not unravel.

Begin stuffing the body.

Round 36:
(3sc, invd) x6 (24 sts).
To make the legs divide the
number of sts in half (2 x 12) and
continue as follows:
Round 37:
6sc, sk next 12 sts, 6sc (12 sts).
Round 38 - 63 (25 rounds):
1sc in each stitch around (12 sts).
Round 64:
Invd x6 (6 sts).
Cut the yarn with enough length to
close off leg and weave in ends.

Arms x 2
Make a magic ring with col Sand.
Round 1:
5sc in ring, pull closed (5 sts).
Round 2:
Inc each st (10 sts).
Round 3 18 (15 rounds):
1sc in each st around (10 sts).
Stuff the arms.
Cut yarn with enough length to
weave in ends.

To make:
Head, body and legs (begin at head).
Make a magic ring with col Sand.
Round 1:
6sc in ring, pull closed (6 sts).
Round 2:
Inc each st (12 sts).
Round 3: (
(1sc, inc) x6 (18 sts).
Round 4:
(2sc, inc) x6 (24 sts).
Round 5:
(3sc, inc) x6 (30 sts).
Round 6:
(4sc, inc) x6 (36 sts).
Round 7:
(5sc, inc) x6 (42 sts).
Round 8 -14 (7 rounds):
1sc in each stitch around (42 sts).
Insert the safety eyes on round 13,
placing them 9 sts apart.
Begin stuffing the head.
Round 15:
(5sc, invd) x6 (36 sts).
Round 16 - 17 (2 rounds):
1sc in each stitch around (36 sts).
Round 18:
(4sc, invd) x6 (30 sts).
Round 19:
(3sc, invd) x6 (24 sts).
Round 20:
(2sc, invd) x6 (18 sts).
Round 21:
(1sc, invd) x6 (12 sts).
Round 22:
(1sc, inc) x6 (18 sts).
Round 23:
(2sc, inc) x6 (24 sts).
Round 24:
(3sc, inc) x6 (30 sts).
Round 25 - 35 (10 rounds):
1sc in each stitch around (30 sts).

Stuff the first leg.

Second leg, continue in the same
direction.
Slst yarn to last skipped st on body.
Sc into same st, sc into each st
around (12 sts).
Continue with Rounds 38 - 64 as
for first leg.
Cut the yarn with enough length to
close off leg and weave in ends.
Insert fibrefill through the hole
between the legs to stuff the
second leg and to add more to the
body and first leg, if needed. You
may need to use the back of your
crochet hook to help you stuff the
leg. Use a length of yarn to sew
up the hole.

Dress
Row 1:
With col Pacific Blue make 32 fsc, turn.
Row 2:
Ch1, 1sc in each st across, turn (32 sts).
Row 3 - 4:
Ch1, 1esc in each st across, turn (32 sts).
Row 5:
Ch1, 1esc in next 3 sts, inc using
esc, (7esc, inc using esc) x 3, 4esc,
turn (36 sts).
Row 6:
Ch1, 1esc in next 4 sts, inc using
esc, (8esc, inc using esc) x 3, 4esc,
turn (40 sts).
Row 7:
Ch1, 1esc in next 5 sts, inc using
esc, (9esc, inc using esc) x 3, 4esc,
turn (44 sts).

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Row 8:
Ch1, 1esc in each st across, turn (44 sts).
Row 9:
Ch1, 1sc, ch3, *1sc in next st, ch3;
rep from * across, sc in last st.
Cut yarn with enough length to
weave in ends.

Round 6:
1ch, 12 blp sc, 2fsc, sk next 12 sts,
slst to first blp sc.
Round 7:
1ch, 14 blp sc.
Cut yarn with enough length to
weave in ends.

For the straps of the dress:

Slst yarn to first st of fsc row at
top of dress.
Row 1:
Ch1, 5sc (into the ch of the fsc),
7fsc, sk next 5 sts, 12sc, 7fsc, sk
next 5 sts, 5sc, turn.
Row 2:
Ch1, 3flp sc, invd, 6flp sc, invd, 9
flp sc, invd, 6flp sc, invd, 3flp sc.
Cut yarn with enough length to sew
up back of dress.

Second leg, continue in the same

direction.
Slst yarn to last skipped st on
undies.
Sc into same st, 2fsc, 11sc into
each st around. Repeat round 7.
Cut yarn with enough length to
weave in ends.

Undies
With col Pale Blue-Green make 30 fsc,
join to first fsc with slst to form a ring.
Round 1 - 4:
1ch, blp sc in each st around.
Round 5:
1ch, *3blp sc, invd (using blp instead of flp), rep from * all around.
To make the legs divide the
number of sts in half (2 x 12) and
continue as follows:

Socks x 2
Make a magic ring with col Washed Denim.
Round 1:
2ch, 12dc in ring, pull closed, slst
to top of first dc (12 sts).
Round 2 -7 (6 rounds):
2ch, dc in same st as slst, dc in
each st around, slst in top of first
dc (12 sts).
Round 8:
3hdc in st following slst, *slst in
next st, 3hdc in next st; rep from *
around.
Cut yarn with enough length to
weave in ends.

Shoes x 2
Make a magic ring with col Raspberry
Round 1:
2sc, 2hdc, 3dc, 2hdc, 1sc in ring,
pull closed, slst to first sc 8 sts).
Round 2:
1ch, (sc inc) x2, 2hdc, (dc inc) x3,
2hdc, (sc inc) x1, slst to first sc (16 sts).
Round 3:
1ch, (sc inc) x4, 2hdc, (dc inc) x6,
2hdc, (sc inc) x2, slst to first sc (28 sts).
Round 4:
2ch, 8dc, 2hdc, (invd) x6, 2hdc, 4dc,
slst to first dc, slst to first sc (22 sts).
Round 5:
2ch, 8dc, 2hdc, (invd) x3, 2hdc, 4dc,
slst to first dc , slst to first sc (19 sts).
Round 5:
2ch, 8dc, 2hdc, invd, 2hdc, 4dc, slst
to first dc , slst to first sc (19 sts).
Cut yarn with enough length to
weave in ends.
To make up:
The face
Using a length of col Raspberry
make a knot on one end.Thread
the yarn onto the tapestry needle
and insert it five rows below the
eyes working with the three central
stitches between the eyes. Sew
a stitch across the three stitches
leaving a bit of slack. Bring the
needle out through the central
stitch one row lower down. Move
the needle around the stitch and
reinsert the needle into the same
stitch pullig the yarn tight. This will
create the smile on the dolls face.
Carefully weave the end in so the
col is not visible.
The arms
Sew the arms to the body 3 rounds
below the neck on either side of
the body.
The dress
Fold the dress in half, making sure
that the flp sc row is facing out.
Sew the edge up and weave in all
yarn ends. Turn the dress right side
out and pull up the dolls body from
the legs.
The undies
Turn inside out, so that the blp sc
row is facing in. Weave in all ends
and sew up gap between legs. Turn
right side out again an pull up over
dolls legs.

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For the plaits:

Depending on the length of your
plaits you will need to cut lengths
of yarn aproximately 80cm long.
You need two such lengths per
strand to be inserted.
Halve the two strands and make a
large knot at the halved end. You
now have length of yarn made up
of four strands, about 40cm long.
This knot is what will be used to
secure the yarn to the head, so it
needs to be quite large in order to
remain anchored inside the head.
Thread one strand onto the tapestry
needle and insert it into the head
bringing the needle out through the
same stitch you used for the first
part of the fringe.
You may need to push the knot into
the head with the help of a crochet
hook.
Pull the strand so that the knot sits
neatly on the inside of the stitch.
Repeat, using the same entry point.
The socks
Weave in ends and pull onto the
dolls feet making sure the seams
are at the back.
The shoes
Weave in ends and pull onto the
dolls feet
The hair
This is the trickiest bit and I am still
learning as I am making more dolls.
My instructions may not be all that
great but I am more than happy to
try and help via email or on my blog
if you are battling.
If you have a better method of
attaching the hair please feel free
to use it instead (and share your
tricks).
For the fringe:
Thread a long length of African Expressions Hope onto your tapestry
needle. Knot the two ends together
to double strand the yarn. Make
sure your knot is quite big, as this
will be used to secure the yarn in
place.
Insert the needle three rounds
below the magic ring and half way
between the eyes.

Make two stitches, towards the left

eye, each stitch spanning 7 rounds
and exiting one stitch further to the
left.
Make two stitches, towards the right
eye, each stitch spanning 7 rounds
and exiting one stitch further to the
right.
Bring the needle out in the next
st on round three and repeat the
above on either side of the fringe.
Again move one stitch further and
place one more stitch to either side
of the fringe.
You should now have 11 stitches
creating the centre of the fringe.
To shape the sides of the fringe
move one stitch over and place
one stitch spanning 8, 9, 10, 11
rounds in either side of the fringe.

Repeat this process, placing two

strands into each stitch (and magic
ring) down the centre of the dolls
head. Stop three rounds from the
dolls neck.
Now move along the neck line,
inserting one strand along the next
four stitches on either side of the
neck.
Lastly, insert one strand up the side
of the head moving back to the first
strand at an angle. Do this on both
sides.
You can add more strands to the
centre of the head, but this might
create too much bulk for the plaits.
When plaiting the hair you will need
to be careful how to begin, or you
will create bald patches.
Feel free to email me if you have any
questions, or to send me photos of
your completed doll.

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