The Project Gutenberg Ebook of The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics, by Franklin Beech

12/9/2014
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Title:TheDyeingofCottonFabrics
APracticalHandbookfortheDyerandStudent
Author:FranklinBeech
ReleaseDate:April27,2007[EBook#21224]
Language:English
Charactersetencoding:ISO88591
***STARTOFTHISPROJECTGUTENBERGEBOOKTHEDYEINGOFCOTTONFABRICS***
ProducedbyAudreyLonghurst,LabyrinthsandtheOnline
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THE
DYEINGOFCOTTONFABRICS
APRACTICALHANDBOOKFORTHEDYERAND
STUDENT
BY
FRANKLINBEECH
PRACTICALCOLOURISTANDCHEMIST
ILLUSTRATEDBYFORTYFOURENGRAVINGS
LONDON
SCOTT,GREENWOOD&CO.
19LUDGATEHILL,E.C.
1901
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/21224/21224h/21224h.htm
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[Allrightsreserved]
PREFACE.
Inwritingthislittlebooktheauthorbelievesheissupplyingawantwhichmost
StudentsandDyersofCottonFabricshavefeltthatofasmallhandbookclearly
describingthevariousprocessesandoperationsofthegreatindustryofdyeing
Cotton.
Theaimhasnotbeentoproduceaveryelaboratetreatisebutratherabookofa
convenientsize,andinordertodosoithasbeennecessarytobebriefandtoomit
manymattersthatwouldrightfullyfindaplaceinalargertreatise,buttheauthor
hopesthatnothingofimportancehasbeenomitted.Themostmodernprocesses
havebeendescribedinsomedetailcarehasbeentakentoselectthosewhich
experienceshowstobethoroughlyreliableandtogivegoodresults.
FRANKLINBEECH.
May,1901.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTERI.
STRUCTUREANDCHEMISTRYOFTHECOTTONFIBRE
ActionofAlkalies
ActionofAcidsonCellulose
ActionofSulphuricAcidonCotton
ActionofHydrochloricAcid
ActionofNitricAcid
ActionofOxidisingAgentsonCelluloseorCotton
CHAPTERII.
SCOURINGANDBLEACHINGOFCOTTON
StainsandDamagesinBleachedGoods
CHAPTERIII.
DYEINGMACHINERYANDDYEINGMANIPULATIONS
HandDyeing
DyeingMachines
Dyeing,Slubbing,SliverorCardedCottonandWool
CopDyeing
CHAPTERIV.
THEPRINCIPLESANDPRACTICEOFCOTTONDYEING
PAGE
1
6
9
10
11
12
16
23
50
53
53
57
58
64
82
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(1)DirectDyeing
(2)DirectDyeingfollowedbyFixationwithMetallicSalts
(3)DirectDyeingfollowedbyFixationwithDevelopers
(4)DirectDyeingfollowedbyFixationwithCouplers
(5)DyeingonTannicMordant
(6)DyeingonMetallicMordants
(7)ProductionofColourDirectuponCottonFibres
(8)DyeingCottonbyImpregnationwithDyestuffSolution
CHAPTERV.
DYEINGUNION(MIXEDCOTTONANDWOOL)FABRICS
CHAPTERVI.
DYEINGHALFSILK(COTTONSILK,SATIN)FABRICS
MethodofDyeing
CHAPTERVII.
OPERATIONSFOLLOWINGDYEING
Washing,Soaping,Drying
CHAPTERVIII.
TESTINGOFTHECOLOUROFDYEDFABRICS
CHAPTERIX.
EXPERIMENTALDYEINGANDCOMPARATIVEDYETESTING
85
112
128
139
147
156
181
198
208
225
225
239
239
257
262
[Pgvi]
LISTOFILLUSTRATIONS
FIG.
PAGE
1.CottonFibre
5
1A.CrosssectionofCottonFibre
5
2.MercerisedCottonFibre
7
2A.CrosssectionofMercerisedCottonFibre
7
3.SilkifiedCottonFibre
9
3A.CrosssectionofSilkifiedCottonFibre
9
4.Mather&Platt'sLowpressureBleachingKier
31
5.Mather&Platt'sYarnbleachingKier
49
6.RectangularDyetank
54
7.RoundDyetub
54
8.SectionofDyevat
56
9.Delahunty'sDyeingMachine
58
10.ObermaierDyeingMachine
59
11.Holliday'sYarndyeingMachine
60
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12.KlauderWeldonDyeingMachine
13.GraemigerCopdyeingMachine
14.GraemigerCopdyeingMachine
15.Beaumont'sCopdyeingMachine
16.WarpdyeingMachine
17.WarpdyeingMachine
18.Dyejiggers
19.Dyejigger
20.JigWince
21.ClothdyeingMachine
22.DyeBeck
23.Holliday'sMachineforHawkingCloth
24.ContinuousDyeingMachine
25.PaddingMachine
26.PaddingMachine
27.DyetubforParanitroanilineRed
28.PaddingMachineforParanitroanilineRed
29.DevelopingMachineforParanitroanilineRed
30.IndigoDyevatforCloth
31.SqueezingRollers
32.YarnwashingMachine
33.DyehouseWashingMachine
34.ClothwashingMachine
35.ClothwashingMachine
36.WashingandSoapingVats
37.SteamingCottage
38.SteamingandAgeingChamber
39.Hydroextractor
40.Hydroextractor
41.AutomaticYarndryer
42.TruckYarndryer
43.DryingCylinders
44.ExperimentalDyebath
62
65
66
67
70
71
72
73
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
191
192
194
199
240
243
244
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255
263
CHAPTERI.
[Pgviii]
[Pg1]
STRUCTUREANDCHEMISTRYOFTHECOTTONFIBRE.
Thereisscarcelyanysubjectofsomuchimportancetothebleacher,textile
colouristortextilemanufacturerasthestructureandchemistryofthecottonfibre
withwhichhehastodeal.Bythetermchemistrywemeannotonlythe
compositionofthefibresubstanceitself,butalsothereactionsitiscapableof
undergoingwhenbroughtintocontactwithvariouschemicalsubstancesacids,
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alkalies,salts,etc.Thesereactionshaveaveryimportantbearingontheoperations
ofbleachinganddyeingofcottonfabrics.
Afewwordsonvegetabletextilefibresingeneralmaybeofinterest.Fibresare
metwithinconnectionwithplantsinthreeways.
First,ascuticleorciliaryfibresorhairstheseareofnopracticaluse,beingmuch
tooshortforpreparingtextilefabricsfrom,buttheyplayanimportantpartinthe
physiologyoftheplant.
Second,asseedhairsthatisfibresthatareattachedtotheseedsofmanyplants,
such,forinstance,asthecommonthistleanddandelionthecottonfibrebelongsto
thisgroupofseedhairs,whilethereareothers,kapok,etc.,thathavebeentried
fromtimetotimeinspinningandweaving,butwithoutmuchsuccess.Theseseed
hairsvarymuchinlength,frominchto1inchesoreven2incheseachfibre
consistsofasingleunit.Whetheritisserviceableasatextilefibredependsuponits
structure,whichdiffersindifferentplants,andalsouponthequantityavailable.
[Pg2]
Thethirdclassoffibre,whichisbyfarthemostnumerous,consistsofthosefound
lyingbetweenthebarkoroutercuticleandthetruewoodytissuesoftheplant.This
portionisknownasthebast,andhencethesefibresareknownas"bastfibres".
Theyarenoticeableonaccountofthegreatlengthofthefibres,insomecases
upwardsof6feet,whichcanbeobtainedbutitshouldbepointedoutthatthese
longfibresarenottheunitfibres,butarereallybundlesoftheultimatefibres
aggregatedtogethertoformonelongfibre,asfoundinandobtainedfromtheplant.
Thustheultimatefibresofjutearereallyveryshortfrom1/10to1/8ofaninchin
lengththoseofflaxaresomewhatlonger.Jute,flax,Chinagrassandhempare
commonfibreswhicharederivedfromthebastoftheplants.
Thereisanimportantpointofdifferencebetweenseedfibresandbastfibres,thatis
inthedegreeofpurity.Whiletheseedfibresarefairlyfreefromimpuritiescotton
rarelycontainingmorethan5percent.thebastfibrescontainalargeproportion
ofimpurity,from25to30percent.astheyarefirstobtainedfromtheplant,and
thislargequantityhasmuchinfluenceontheextentandcharacterofthetreatments
towhichtheyaresubjected.
Asregardsthestructureofthefibres,itwillbesufficienttosaythatwhileseed
hairsarecylindricalandtubularandhavethinwalls,bastfibresaremoreorless
polygonalinformandarenotessentiallytubular,havingthickwallsandsmall
centralcanals.
TheCottonFibre.Theseedhairsofthecottonplantareseparatedfromtheseeds
bytheprocessofginning,andtheythenpassintocommerceasrawcotton.Inthis
conditionthefibreisfoundtoconsistoftheactualfibroussubstanceitself,
containing,however,about8percent.ofhygroscopicornaturalmoisture,and5per [Pg3]
cent.ofimpuritiesofvariouskinds,whichvaryinamountandinkindinvarious
descriptionsofcotton.Intheprocessofmanufactureintocottoncloths,andasthe
materialpassesthroughtheoperationsofbleaching,dyeingorprinting,the
impuritiesareeliminated.
ImpuritiesoftheCottonFibre.Dr.E.Schunckmadeaninvestigationmany
yearsagointothecharacteroftheimpurities,andfoundthemtoconsistofthe
followingsubstances:
CottonWax.Thissubstancebearsacloseresemblancetocarnaubawax.Itis
lighterthanwater,hasawaxylustre,issomewhattranslucent,iseasilypowdered,
andmeltsbelowtheboilingpointofwater.Itisinsolubleinwater,butdissolvesin
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alcoholandinether.Whenboiledwithweakcausticsodaitmeltsbutisnot
dissolvedbythealkaliitcan,however,bedissolvedbyboilingwithalcoholic
causticpotash.Thiswaxisfoundfairlyuniformlydistributedoverthesurfaceof
thecottonfibre,anditisduetothisfactthatrawcottoniswettedbywateronly
withdifficulty.
FattyAcids.Asolid,fattyacid,meltingat55C.isalsopresentincotton.
Probablystearicacidisthemainconstituentofthisfattyacid.
ColouringMatter.Twobrowncolouringmatters,bothcontainingnitrogen,can
beobtainedfromrawcotton.Oneoftheseisreadilysolubleinalcohol,theother
onlysparinglyso.Thepresenceinrelativelylargequantitiesofthesebodies
accountsforthebrowncolourofEgyptianandsomeotherdarkcolouredvarieties
ofcotton.
PecticAcid.Thisisthechiefimpurityfoundinrawcotton.Itcanbeobtainedin
theformofanamorphoussubstanceofalightyellowcolour,notunlikegumin
appearance.Itissolubleinboilingwater,andthesolutionhasafaintacidreaction.
[Pg4]
Acidsandmanymetallicsalts,suchasmercury,chlorideandleadacetate,
precipitatepecticacidfromitssolutions.Alkaliescombinewithit,andthese
compoundsformbrownsubstances,arebutsparinglysolubleinwater,andmanyof
themcanbeprecipitatedoutbyadditionofneutralsalts,likesodiumand
ammoniumchlorides.
Albumens.Asmallquantityofalbuminousmatterisfoundamongtheimpurities
ofcotton.
StructureoftheCottonFibre.Thecottonfibrevariesinlengthfrom1to2
inches,notonlyinfibresofthesameclassbutalsoinfibresfromdifferent
localitiesIndianfibresvaryingfrom0.8intheshortestto1.4inthelongest
stapledvarietiesEgyptiancottonfibresrangefrom1.1to1.6incheslong
Americancottonrangesfrom0.8intheshortestto2inchesinthelongestfibres.
Thediameterisabout1/1260ofaninch.Whenseenunderthemicroscopefully
ripecottonpresentstheappearanceofirregularlytwistedribbons,withthick
roundededges.Thethickestpartistherootend,orpointofattachmenttotheseed.
Thefreeendterminatesinapoint.Thediameterisfairlyuniformthroughtoof
itslength,therestistaper.InFig.1isgivensomeillustrationsofthecottonfibre,
showingthistwistedandribbonlikestructure,whileinFig.1Aisgivensome
transversesectionsofthefibre.Theseshowthatitisacollapsedcylinder,thewalls
beingofconsiderablethicknesswhencomparedwiththeinternalboreorcanal.
Perfectlydeveloped,wellformedcottonfibresalwayspresentthisappearance.But
allcommercialcottonscontainmoreorlessoffibreswhicharenotperfectly
developedorareunripe.Theseareknownas"deadfibres"theydonotspinwell
andtheydonotdyewell.Onexaminationunderthemicroscopeitisseenthatthese
fibreshavenottheflattened,twistedappearanceoftheripefibres,butareflatter,
andthecentralcanalisalmostobliteratedandthefibresarebutlittletwisted.Dead
fibresarethin,brittleandweak.
[Pg5]
CompositionoftheCottonFibres.Ofallthevegetabletextilefibrescottonis
foundtohavethesimplestchemicalcompositionandtobe,asitwere,thetype
substanceofallsuchfibres,theothersdifferingfromitinseveralrespects.When
strippedofthecomparativelysmallquantitiesofimpurities,cottonisfoundto
consistofasubstancetowhichthenameofcellulosehasbeengiven.
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FIG.1.CottonFibre.
Celluloseisacompoundofthethreeelements,carbon,hydrogenandoxygen,inthe
proportionsshowninthefollowinganalysis:
Carbon,44.2percent.,Hydrogen,6.3percent.,Oxygen,49.5percent.,
whichcorrespondstotheempiricalformulaC6H10O5,whichshowsittobelongto
thegroupofcarbohydrates,thatis,bodieswhichcontainthehydrogenandoxygen
presentinthemintheproportioninwhichtheyarepresentinwater,namelyH2O.
[Pg6]
Cellulosemaybeobtainedinapureconditionfromcottonbytreatmentwith
alkalies,followedbywashing,andbytreatmentwithalkalinehypochlorites,acids,
washingand,finally,drying.Asthusobtaineditisawhitesubstancehavingthe
formofthefibrefromwhichitisprocured,showingaslightlustre,andisslightly
translucent.Thespecificgravityis1.5,itbeingheavierthanwater.Itis
characterisedbybeingveryinert,apropertyofconsiderablevaluefromatechnical
pointofview,asenablingthefibrestostandthevariousoperationsofbleaching,
dyeing,printing,finishing,etc.Nevertheless,bysuitablemeans,cellulosecanbe
madetoundergovariouschemicaldecompositionswhichwillbenotedinsome
detail.
Celluloseonexposuretotheairwillabsorbmoistureorwater.Thisisknownas
hygroscopicmoisture,or"waterofcondition".Theamountincottonisabout8per
cent.,andithasaveryimportantbearingonthespinningpropertiesofthefibre,as
itmakesthefibresoftandelastic,whileabsolutelydrycottonfibreisstiff,brittle
andnonelastichenceitiseasiertospinandweavecottoninmoistclimatesor
weatherthanindryclimatesorweather.Cottoncelluloseisinsolubleinallordinary
solvents,suchaswater,ether,alcohol,chloroform,benzene,etc.,andtheseagents
havenoinfluenceinanywayonthematerial,butitissolubleinsomespecial
solventsthatwillbenotedlateron.
ACTIONOFALKALIES.
Theactionofalkaliesoncelluloseorcottonisoneofgreatimportanceinviewof
theuniversaluseofalkalineliquorsmadefromsodaorcausticsodainthescouring,
bleachinganddyeingofcotton,whilegreatinterestattachestotheuseofcaustic
sodainthe"mercerising"ofcotton.
Dilutesolutionsofthecausticalkalies,causticsodaorcausticpotash,offrom2to7
[Pg7]
percent.strength,havenoactiononcelluloseorcotton,inthecold,evenwhena
prolongeddigestionofthefibrewiththealkalinesolutiontakesplace.Caustic
alkalisolutionsoffrom1to2percent.strengthhavelittleornoactionevenwhen
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usedathightemperaturesandunderconsiderablepressureafactofverygreat
importancefromableacher'spointofview,asitenableshimtosubjectcottontoa
boilinkiers,withsuchalkalinesolutionsathighpressures,forthepurposeof
scouringthecotton,withoutdamagingthefibreitself.
MercerisedCottonFibre.
Solutionsofcausticsodaofgreaterstrengththan3percent.tend,whenboiled
underpressure,toconvertthecelluloseintosolublebodies,andasmuchas20per
cent.ofthefibremaybecomedissolvedundersuchtreatment.Theactionofstrong
solutionsofcausticsodaorcausticpotashuponcelluloseorcottonissomewhat
different.Mercerfoundthatsolutionscontaining10percent.ofalkalihadavery
considerableeffectuponthefibre,causingittoswellupandbecomegelatinousand
transparentinitsstructure,eachindividualcottonfibrelosingitsribbonlike
appearance,andassumingarodlikeform,thecentralcanalbeingmoreorless
obliterated.ThisisshowninFig.2and2A,wherethefibreisshownasarodand
thecrosssectioninFig.2Ahasnocentralcanal.Theactionwhichtakesplaceisas [Pg8]
follows:Thecelluloseentersintoacombinationwiththealkaliandthereisformed
asodiumcellulose,whichhastheformulaC6H10O52NaOH.Thisalkalicellulose,
however,isnotastablebodybywashingwithwaterthealkaliisremoved,and
hydratedcelluloseisobtained,whichhastheformulaC6H10O5H2O.Water
removesthewholeofthealkali,butalcoholonlyremovesonehalf.Ithasbeen
observedthatduringtheprocessofwashingwithwaterthefibreshrinksverymuch.
Thisshrinkageismoreparticularlytobeobservedinthecaseofcotton.AsJohn
Mercerwasthefirsttopointouttheactionofthealkalinesolutionsoncotton,the
processhasbecomeknownas"mercerisation".
Solutionsofcausticsodaof1.000or20Tw.instrengthhaveverylittle
mercerisingaction,anditisonlybyprolongedtreatmentthatmercerisationcanbe
effected.Itisinterestingtoobservethattheadditionofzincoxidetothecaustic
solutionincreasesitsmercerisingpowers.Solutionsof1.225to1.275(thatisfrom
45to55Tw.instrength)effectthemercerisationalmostimmediatelyinthecold,
andthisisthebeststrengthatwhichtousecausticsodasolutionsforthispurpose.
Inadditiontothechangebroughtaboutbytheshrinkingandthickeningofthe
material,themercerisedfibresarestrongerthantheuntreatedfibres,andatthe
sametimetheyhaveastrongeraffinityfordyes,apieceofclothmercerisedtaking
upthreetimesasmuchcolouringmatterasapieceofunmercerisedclothfromthe
samedyebath.
Theshrinkageofthecotton,whichtakesplaceduringtheoperationofwashing
withwater,wasforalongtimeabartoanypracticalapplicationofthe
"mercerising"process,butsomeyearsagoLoweascertainedthatbyconductingthe
operationwhilethecottonwasstretchedorinastateoftensionthisshrinkagedid
nottakeplacefurther,ThomasandPrevostfoundthatthecottonsotreatedgained
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[Pg9]
asilkylustre,andithassincebeenascertainedthatthislustreismosthighly
developedwiththelongstapledEgyptianandSeaIslandcottons.Thismercerising
undertensionisnowappliedonalargescaletoproducesilkifiedcotton.When
viewedunderthemicroscope,thesilkifiedcottonfibreshavetheappearanceshown
inFig.3,longrodlikefibresnearlyifnotquitecylindricalthecrosssectionof
thosefibreshastheappearanceshowninFig.3A.Thisstructurefullyaccountsfor
thesilkylustrepossessedbythemercerisedfibres.Silkymercerisedcottonhasvery
considerableaffinityfordyestuffs,takingthemupmuchmorereadilyfromdye
baths,anditisdyedinverybrilliantshades.
FIG.3.SilkifiedCottonFibre.
InthechapteronScouringandBleachingofCotton,somereferencewillbemade
totheactionofalkaliesoncotton.
ACTIONOFACIDSONCELLULOSE.
Theactionofacidsoncelluloseisaveryvariedone,beingdependentuponseveral
factors,suchastheparticularacidused,thestrengthoftheacid,durationofaction, [Pg10]
temperature,etc.Asarule,organicacidsforexampleacetic,oxalic,citric,tartaric
havenoactiononcelluloseorcotton.Solutionsofsulphuricacidorhydrochloric
acidof2percent.strengthhavepracticallynoactioninthecold,andifafter
immersionthecottonorcellulosebewellwashedthereisnochangeofanykind.
Thisisimportant,asincertainoperationsofbleachingcottonandothervegetable
fibresitisnecessarytosourthem,whichcouldnotbedoneifacidsactedonthem,
butitisimportanttothoroughlywashthegoodsafterwards.Whentheacid
solutionsareusedattheboiltheyhaveadisintegratingeffectonthecellulose,the
latterbeingconvertedintohydrocellulose.Whendried,thecelluloseisverybrittle
andpowdery,whichinthecaseofcottonyarnbeingsotreatedwouldshowitself
bytheyarnbecomingtenderandrotten.Thedegreeofactionvarieswiththe
temperature(thehigherthisisthestrongertheaction),andalsoaccordingtothe
strengthoftheacidsolution.Thusa10percent.solutionofsulphuricacidusedata
temperatureof80C.beginstoactoncottonafteraboutfiveminutes'immersion,
inhalfanhourthereisaperceptibleamountofdisintegration,butthecomplete
conversionofthecottonintohydrocelluloserequiresonehour'simmersion.A
diluteacidwith8volumesofwater,usedinthecold,takesthreehours'immersion
beforeanyactiononthecottonbecomesevident.
ACTIONOFSULPHURICACIDONCOTTON.
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Whencellulose(cotton)isimmersedinstrongsulphuricacidthecottonbecomes
graduallydissolvedastheactionprogressescellulosesulphatesareformed,and
somehydrolyticactiontakesplace,withtheformationofsugar.Thisfacthaslong
beenknown,butonlyrecentlyhasitbeenshownthatdextrosewasthevarietyof
sugarwhichwasformed.Ondilutingthestrongacidsolutionwithwaterthereis
precipitatedoutthehydrooroxycellulosesthathavebeenformed,whilethe
cellulosesulphatesareretainedinsolution.
[Pg11]
Bysuitablemeansthecalcium,barium,orleadsaltsofthesecellulosesulphuric
acidscanbeprepared.Analysisofthemshowsthatthesesaltsundergohydrolysis,
andlosehalftheirsulphuricacid.
Theactionofstrongsulphuricacidhasapracticalapplicationintheproductionof
parchmentpaperunsizedpaperisimmersedinstrongacidoftheproperstrength
foraboutaminute,andthenimmediatelyrinsedinwater.Theacidactsuponthe
surfaceofthepaperandformsthecellulosesulphuricacidwhichremainsattached
tothesurface.Onpassingintothewaterthisisdecomposed,theacidiswashed
away,andthecelluloseisdepositedinanamorphousformonthepaper,fillingup
itsporesandrenderingitwaterproofandgreaseproof.Suchpapersarenowlargely
usedforpackingpurposes.
ACTIONOFHYDROCHLORICACID.
Dilutehydrochloricacidoffrom1to2Tw.instrength,usedinthecold,hasno
actiononcellulose.Cottonimmersedinacidsofthestrengthnamedandthenwell
washedinwaterisnotmateriallyaffectedinanyway,whichisafeatureofsome
valueinconnectionwiththebleachingofcotton,wherethematerialhastobe
treatedattwopointsintheprocesswithweakacids.Boilingdilutehydrochloric
acidof10Tw.disintegratescelluloseveryrapidly.Theproductisawhitevery
friablepowder,whichifviewedunderthemicroscopeappearstobefragmentsof
thefibrethathasbeenusedtoprepareit.Theproducthasthecomposition
C12H22O11,andisthereforeahydrateofcellulose,thelatterhavingundergone
hydrolysisbytakinguptheelementsofwateraccordingtotheequation2C6H10O5 [Pg12]
+H2O=C12H22O11.Byfurtherdigestionwiththeacid,thehydrocellulose,asitis
called,undergoesmolecularchange,andisconvertedintodextrine.Incomposition
hydrocelluloseresemblestheproductformedbytheadditionofsulphuricacid
whichhasreceivedthenameofamyloid.Itdiffersfromcelluloseincontainingfree
carboxyl,CO,groups,whileitshydroxylgroups,HO,aremuchmoreactiveintheir
chemicalreactions.
Hydrocelluloseissolubleinnitricacid,1.5specificgravity,withoutundergoing
oxidation.Nitratesareformedvaryingincomposition.
Theformationofhydrocellulosehasaveryimportantbearinginwoollen
manufacture.Itispracticallyimpossibletoobtainwoolfreefromvegetablefibres,
anditisoftendesirabletoseparatethesevegetablefibres.Forthispurposethe
goodsarepassedintoabathofhydrochloricacidorofweaksulphuricacid.On
dryingtheacidconvertsthecottonorvegetablefibreintohydrocellulosewhich,
beingfriableorpowdery,canbeeasilyremoved,whilethewoolnothavingbeen
actedonbytheacidremainsquiteintact.Theprocessisknownas"carbonising".It
maynotonlybedonebymeansoftheacidsnamedbutalsobytheuseofacidsalts,
suchasaluminiumchloride,whichonbeingheatedaredecomposedintofreeacid
andbasicoxide.Forthesamereasonitisimportanttoavoidtheuseofthese
bodies,aluminiumchlorideandsulphate,zincandmagnesiumchlorides,etc.,inthe
treatmentofcottonfabricsasinfinishingprocesses,wherethegoodsaredried
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afterwards,thereisagreatliabilitytoformhydrocellulosewiththeaccompaniment
ofthetenderingofthegoods.
ACTIONOFNITRICACID.
Theactionofnitricacidoncelluloseisavariableone,dependingonmanyfactors,
[Pg13]
strengthofacid,durationofactionandtemperature.Naturallyasnitricacidisa
strongoxidisingagenttheactionofnitricacidoncelluloseisessentiallyinallcases
thatofanoxidant,butthecharacteroftheproductwhichisobtainedvariesvery
muchaccordingtotheconditionsjustnoted.Whencelluloseorcottoninanyform
isimmersedinnitricacidof1.4to1.5specificgravityforamoment,andthefibre
bewellwashed,thereisaformationofhydrateofcellulosewhichhasagelatinous
nature.Thisisdepositedontherestofthematerial,whichisnotmateriallyaffected
sofarasregardsstrengthandappearance,butitspowerofaffinityfordyesis
materiallyincreased.Thereissomeshrinkageinthesizeofthecottonorpaper
actedupon.
Nitricacidchangesallkindsofcelluloseintonitroproducts,thecompositionof
whichdependsuponthestrengthoftheacid,thedurationoftreatment,andoneor
twootherfactors.Thenitrocellulosesareallhighlyinflammablebodies,themore
highlynitratedburningwithexplosiveforce.Theyareproducedcommerciallyand
areknownas"guncotton"or"pyroxyline".Themosthighlynitratedbodyforms
thebasisoftheexplosivevarietytheleasthighlynitratedformsthatofthesoluble
guncottonusedformakingcollodionforphotographicandotherpurposes.
Theproductsformedbytheactionofnitricacidareusuallyconsideredtobe
nitrocelluloses.Itwouldappearthattheyaremorecorrectlydescribedascellulose
nitrates,foranalysisindicatesthepresenceoftheNO3group,whichis
characteristicofnitrates,andnotoftheNO2group,whichisthefeatureofnitro
bodiesingeneral.Further,nitrocompounds,whensubjecttotheactionofreducing
agents,areconvertedintoamidocompounds,asisthecase,forinstance,withnitro
benzene,C6H5NO2,intoaniline,C6H5NH2,orwithnitronaphthalene,C10H7NO2,
[Pg14]
whichchangesintonaphthylamine,C10H7NH2.
Butthenitricacidderivativesofcellulosearenotcapableofconversionby
reducingagentsintosimilaramidocompounds.Theyhavethefollowingproperties,
whichaccordmorecloselywithnitratesthanwithnitricbodies:alkaliesremovethe
nitricacidcoldsulphuricacidexpelsthenitricacid,cellulosesulphatesbeing
formedboilingwithferroussulphateandhydrochloricacidcausestheelimination
ofthenitricacidasnitricoxide(onwhichreactionamethodfordeterminingthe
degreeofnitrationofguncottonisbased).Itisbestthereforetoconsiderthemas
cellulosenitrates.Severalwellcharacterisedcellulosenitrateshavebeenprepared,
butisanexceedinglydifficultmattertoobtainanyoneinastateofpurity,the
commercialarticlesbeingalwaysmixturesoftwoorthree.Thosethatarebest
knownandofthemostimportancearethefollowing:
CelluloseHexanitrate,C6H4O5(NO3)6.Thisformstheprincipalportionofthe
commercialexplosiveguncotton,andismadewhenamixtureofstrongnitricacid
andstrongsulphuricacidisallowedtoactoncottonatfrom50to55F.for
twentyfourhours.Thelongertheactionisprolonged,themorecompletelyisthe
cottonconvertedintothenitrate,withashortdurationthefinishedproductcontains
lowernitrates.Thishexanitrateisinsolubleinether,alcohol,orinamixtureof
thosesolvents,likewiseinglacialaceticacidorinmethylalcohol.
CellulosePentanitrate,C6H5O5(NO3)5,isfoundinexplosiveguncottontoasmall
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extent.Whenguncottonisdissolvedinnitricacidandsulphuricacidisadded,the
pentanitrateisthrowndownasaprecipitate.Itisnotsolubleinalcohol,butissoin
amixtureofetherandalcohol,itisalsoslightlysolubleinaceticacid.Solutionsof
causticpotashconvertitintothedinitrate.
CelluloseTetranitrate,C6H6O5(NO3)4,andCelluloseTrinitrate,C6H7O5,
(NO3)3,formthebasisofthepyroxylineorsolubleguncottonofcommerce.Ithas
notbeenfoundpossibletoseparatethemowingtotheirbehaviourtosolventsbeing
verysimilar.Thesenitratesareobtainedbytreatingcottonwithnitricacidfor
twentyorthirtyminutes.Theyarecharacterisedbybeingmoresolublethanthe
highernitratesandlessinflammable.Theyarefreelysolubleinamixtureofether
andalcohol,fromwhichsolutionstheyareprecipitatedinagelatinousformon
addingchloroform.Aceticether,methylalcohol,acetoneandglacialaceticacid,
willalsodissolvethesenitrates.
[Pg15]
CelluloseDinitrate,C6H8O5(NO3)2,isobtainedwhencelluloseistreatedwithhot
dilutenitricacid,orwhenthehighnitratesareboiledwithsolutionsofcausticsoda
orcausticpotash.Likethelastmentionednitratesitissolubleinamixtureof
alcoholandether,inaceticether,andinabsolutealcohol.Thesolutionofthe
pyroxylinenitratesinetherandalcoholisknownascollodion,andisusedin
photographyandinmedicalandsurgicalwork.
Oneofthemostinterestingapplicationsofthecellulosenitratesisintheproduction
ofartificialsilk.Severalprocesses,thedifferencesbetweenwhicharepartly
chemicalandpartlymechanical,havebeenpatentedfortheproductionofartificial
silk,thoseofLehnerandofChardonnetbeingofmostimportance.Theyalldepend
uponthefactthatwhenasolutionofcellulosenitrateisforcedthroughafine
apertureortube,thesolventevaporatesalmostimmediately,leavingagelatinous
threadofthecellulosenitratewhichisverytoughandelastic,andpossessesa
brilliantlustre.Chardonnetdissolvesthecellulosenitrateinamixtureofalcohol
andether,andthesolutionisforcedthroughfinecapillarytubesintohotwater,
whenthesolventsimmediatelyevaporate,leavingthecellulosenitrateintheform
ofveryfinefibre,whichbysuitablemachineryisdrawnawayasfastasitis
[Pg16]
formed.Lehner'sprocessisverysimilartothatofChardonnet.Lehnerusesa
solutionofcellulosenitrateinetherandalcohol,andaddsasmallquantityof
sulphuricacidbytheadoptionofthelatteringredientheisabletouseastronger
solutionofcellulosenitrate,10to15percent.,thanwouldotherwisebepossible,
andtherebyobtainsastrongerthreadwhichresiststheprocessofdrawingmuch
betterthanisthecasewhenonlyaweaksolutioninalcoholandetherisemployed.
Bysubsequenttreatmentthefibrecanbedenitratedandsorenderedless
inflammable.
Thedenitratedfibresthuspreparedverycloselyresemblesilkintheirlustrethey
arenotquitesosoftandsupple,noraretheyinanywaysostrongasordinarysilk
fibreofthesamediameter.
Artificialsilkcanbedyedinthesamemannerasordinarysilk.
ACTIONOFOXIDISINGAGENTSONCELLULOSEORCOTTON
Celluloseresistsfairlywelltheactionofweakoxidisingagentsstilltooprolonged
anactionofweakoxidisingagentshassomeinfluenceuponthecottonfibre,andit
maybeworthwhiletopointouttheactionofsomebodieshavinganoxidising
effect.
Nitricacidofabout1.15specificgravityhaslittleactioninthecold,andonly
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slowlyonitwhenheated.Theactionisoneofoxidation,thecellulosebeing
transformedintoasubstanceknownasoxycellulose.Thisoxycelluloseiswhiteand
flocculent.Ittendstoformgelatinoushydrateswithwater,andhasacomposition
correspondingtotheformulaC6H10O6.Itissolubleinamixtureofnitricand
sulphuricacids,andondilutingthissolutionwithwateratrinitrateprecipitatesout.
Aweaksolutionofsodadissolvesthisoxycellulosewithayellowcolour,while
[Pg17]
strongsulphuricacidformsapinkcolouration.Itisimportanttonotethatnitric
acidofthestrengthgivendoesnotconvertallthecelluloseintooxycellulose,but
thereareformedalsocarbonicandoxalicacids.Whencottonispassedintostrong
solutionsofbleachingpowderandofalkalinehypochloritesandthendried,itis
foundtobetenderedveryconsiderably.Thiseffectofbleachingpowderwasfirst
observedsomethirteenyearsagobyGeorgeWitz,whoascribedthetenderingof
thecottontotheformationofanoxycellulose.Althoughthecompositionofthis
particularoxycellulosesoformedhasnotyetbeenascertained,thereisreasonto
thinkthatitdifferssomewhatfromtheoxycelluloseformedbytheactionofthe
weaknitricacid.Anotablepropertyoftheoxycellulosenowunderconsiderationis
itsaffinityforthebasiccoaltardyes,whichitwillabsorbdirectly.The
oxycelluloseissolubleinalkalinesolutions.
Intheordinarybleachingprocessthereisconsiderableriskoftheformationof
oxycellulosebytheemploymentofthebleachingsolutionsoftoogreatastrength,
orinallowingthegoodstolietoolongbeforethefinalwashingoff.Thepresence
ofanyoxycelluloseinbleachedcottonmaybereadilydeterminedbyimmersingit
inaweaksolutionofMethyleneblue,when,iftherebeanyoxycellulosepresent,
thefibrewilltakeupsomeofthedyestuff.
Permanganateofpotashisaverypowerfuloxidisingagent.Oncelluloseneutral
solutionshavebutlittleaction,eitherinthecoldorwhenheated.Theymay,
therefore,beusedforthebleachingofcottonorothercellulosefibres.
Alkalinesolutionsofpermanganateconvertthecelluloseintooxycellulose,which
resemblestheoxycelluloseobtainedbytheactionofthenitricacid.
Chromicacid,whenusedintheformofasolution,hasbutlittleactiononcellulose.
Inthepresenceofmineralacids,andusedwarmorboiling,chromicacidoxidises
[Pg18]
celluloseintooxycelluloseandotherproducts.
Itisthereforealwaysadvisableincarryingoutanytechnicalprocessconnected
withcottonwhichinvolvesitstreatmentwithoxidisingagentsofanykind,and
whereitisdesirednottoalterthecotton,toallowtheseactionstobeasshortas
possible.
DyesandCottonDyeing.Anaccountofthechemistryofthecottonfibrewould
notbecompleteunlesssomethingissaidaboutthereactionsinvolvedinthe
processesofdyeingandprintingcotton.Thisisamostinterestingsubjectand
opensupquiteanumberofproblemsrelatingtothecombinationofthefibrewith
colouringmatterofvariouskinds,buthereonlyabriefoutlineoftheprinciplesthat
presentthemselvesinconsideringthebehaviourofthecottonfibreasregards
colouringmatterwillbegiven.
Whenthequestionisconsideredfromabroadpointofview,andhavingregardto
thevariousaffinitiesofthedyesforcottonwenotice(1)thatthereisalarge
numberofdyestuffstheBenzo,Congo,Diamine,Titan,Mikado,etc.,dyesthat
willdyethecottonfromaplainbathorfromabathcontainingsalt,sodium
sulphate,boraxorsimilarsalts(2)thattherearedyeswhich,likeMagenta,
Safranine,AuramineandMethylviolet,willnotdyethecottonfibredirect,but
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requireittobemordantedorpreparedwithtannicacid(3)thattherearesomedyes
orrathercolouringmatterswhich,likeAlizarine,Nitrosoresorcine,barwood,
logwood,etc.,requirealumina,chromeandironmordants(4)thattherearesome
dyeswhich,liketheazoscarletandazocoloursingeneral,cannotbeusedincotton
dyeing(5)thatthereareafewdyes,i.e.,indigo,whichdonotcomeunderthis
grouping.
Fromtheresultsofrecentinvestigationsintothechemistryofdyeingitisnow
consideredthatforperfectdyeingtotakeplacetheremustbeformedonthefibrea
combinationwhichiscalleda"colourlake,"whichconsistsofatleasttwo
[Pg19]
constituentsoneoftheseisthedyestufforthecolouringmatteritself,theother
beingeitherthefibreoramordant,ifsuchhastobeused.Thequestionofthe
formationofcolourlakesisoneconnectedwiththemolecularconstitutionofthe
colouringmatter,butmuchyetremainstobedonebeforetheproperfunctionsand
modeofactionofthevariousgroupsorradiclesinthedyestuffscanbedefinitely
stated.Whiletheconstitutionofthedyestuffisofimportance,thatofthesubstance
beingdyedisalsoafactorinthequestionoftheconditionsunderwhichitis
applied.
Indealingwiththefirstoftheabovegroupsofdyes,thedirectdyes,thecolouristis
somewhatatalosstoexplaininwhatmannerthecombinationwiththecottonfibre
isbroughtabout.Theaffinityofcellulosefordyesappearstobesosmallandits
chemicalactivitiessoweak,thattoassumetheexistenceofareactionbetweenthe
dyestuffandthefibre,tendingtotheformationofacolourlake,seemstobe
untenable.Then,again,thechemicalcompositionandconstitutionofthedyesof
thisgrouparesovariedthatanexplanationwhichwouldholdgoodforonemight
notdosoforanother.Therelativefastnessofthedyesagainstwashingandsoaping
precludestheideaofamerelymechanicalabsorptionofthedyebythefibreonthe
otherhandthegreatdifferenceinthefastnesstosoapingandlightbetweenthe
samedyesoncottonandwoolwouldshowthattherehasnotbeenatrueformation
ofcolourlake.
Thedyeingofcottonwiththesecondgroupofdyesismoreeasilyexplained.The
cottonfibrehassomeaffinityforthetannicacidusedinpreparingitandabsorbsit
fromthemordantingbath.Thetannicacidhasthepropertyofcombiningwiththe
basicconstituentsofthesedyesandformsatruecolourlake,whichisfirmlyfixed
onthefibre.Thecolourlakecanbeformedindependentlyofthefibrebybringing
thetannicacidandthedyeintocontactwithoneanother.
[Pg20]
Inthecaseofthedyesofthethirdgroup,theformationofacolourlakebetween
themetallicoxideandthecolouringmattercanbereadilydemonstrated.Indyeing
withthesecoloursthecottonisfirstofallimpregnatedwiththemordantingoxide,
andafterwardsplacedinthedyebath,themordantalreadyfixedonthefibrethen
reactswiththedye,andabsorbsit,thusdyeingthecotton.Tosomeextentthe
dyeingofcottonwiththebasicdyesofthesecondgroupandthemordantdyesof
thethirdgroupisalmostamechanicalone,thecottonfibretakingnopartinitfrom
achemicalpointofview,butsimplyplayingthepartofabaseorfoundationon
whichthecolourlakemaybeformed.Inthecaseofthedyesofthefourthgroup,
therebeingnochemicalaffinityofthecottonknownforthem,thesedyescannotbe
usedinasuccessfulmannercottonwill,ifimmersedinabathcontainingthem,
moreorlessmechanicallytakeupsomeofthecolourfromtheliquor,butsuch
colourcanbealmostcompletelywashedoutagain,hencethesedyesarenotusedin
cottondyeing,althoughmanyattemptshavebeenmadetorenderthemavailable.
Indigoisadyestuffthatstandsbyitself.Itscombinationwiththecottonfibreis
chieflyofaphysicalratherthanachemicalnatureitdoesnotformcolourlakesin
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thesamewayasAlizarineandMagentado.
Cellulosecanbedissolvedbycertainmetallicsolutionsandpreparations:
(1)ZincChloride.Whencottonorotherformofcelluloseisheatedwithastrong
solution,40to50percent.,itslowlydissolvestoasyrupyliquid.Ondilutingthis
liquidwithwaterthecelluloseisthrowndowninagelatinousform,butmoreor
lesshydrated,andcontainingsomezincoxide,18to25percent.,incombination.
(2)ZincChlorideandHydrochloricAcid.Whenzincchlorideisdissolvedin
hydrochloricacidaliquidisobtainedwhichdissolvescelluloseondilutionthe
celluloseisreprecipitatedinahydratedform.Itisworthnotingthatthesolutionis
notastableone:onkeeping,thecellulosechangesitscharacterandundergoes
hydrolysistoagreaterorlessextent.
[Pg21]
(3)AmmoniacalCopper.Whenammoniaisaddedtoasolutionofcopper
sulphate,thereisformedatfirstapaleblueprecipitateofcopperhydroxide,which
onaddingexcessofammoniadissolvestoadeepbluesolutionareactionhighly
characteristicofcopper.Theammoniacalcoppersolutionthuspreparedhas,aswas
firstobservedbyJohnMercer,thepropertyofdissolvingcellulosefairlyrapidly,
eveninthecold.
Ifinsteadofpreparingtheammoniacalcoppersolutioninthemannerindicated
above,whichresultsinitscontaininganeutralammoniumsalt,thecopper
hydroxidebepreparedseparatelyandthendissolvedinammoniaasolutionis
obtainedwhichisstrongerinitsaction.
Thecupraammoniumsolutionsofcellulosearebynomeansstablebutchangeon
keeping.Whenfreshlyprepared,thecellulosemaybeprecipitatedfromthem
almostunchangedbytheadditionofsuchbodiesasalcohol,sugarandsolutionsof
neutralalkalinesalts.Onkeepingthecelluloseundergoesmoreorlesshydrolysisor
evenoxidation,forithasbeenobservedthatoxycelluloseisformedonprolonged
digestionofcellulosewithcupraammoniumsolutions,whilethereisformeda
fairlylargeproportionofanitrite.
Onaddingleadacetatetothecupraammoniumsolutionofcellulose,acompound
ofleadoxideandcelluloseofsomewhatvariablecompositionisprecipitated.Itis
ofinterestalsotonotethatonaddingmetalliczinctothecupraammoniumsolution
thecopperisthrownoutandasolutioncontainingzincisobtained.
Thisactionofcupraammoniumsolutionsoncellulosehasbeenmadethebasisfor [Pg22]
theproductionofthe"Willesden"waterproofcloths.Cottonclothsorpaperare
passedthroughthesesolutionsofvariousdegreesofstrengthaccordingto
requirements,theyarethenpassedthroughrollerswhichcausesthesurfaceto
becomemorecompact.Thereisformedonthesurfaceofthegoodsadepositofa
gelatinousnaturewhichmakesthesurfacemorecompact,andthefabricbecomes
waterproofincharacterwhilethecopperimpartstothemagreencolourandactsas
apreservative.The"Willesden"fabricshavebeenfoundveryusefulforavarietyof
[Pg23]
purposes.
CHAPTERII.
SCOURINGANDBLEACHINGOFCOTTON.
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Preparatorytotheactualdyeingoperations,itisnecessarytotreatcottoninany
conditionloosecotton,yarn,orpiecesothatthedyeingshallbeproperlydone.
Rawcottoncontainsmanyimpurities,mechanicalandotherwisecottonyarns
accumulatedirtandimpuritiesofvariouskindsduringthevariousspinning
operations,whileinweavingapieceofcottonclothitispracticallyimpossibleto
keepitcleanandfreefromdirt,etc.Beforethecottoncanbedyedaperfectlylevel
anduniformshade,freefromdarkspotsorlightpatches,theseimpuritiesmustbe
removed,andthereforethecottonissubjectedtovariousscouringorcleansing
operationswiththeobjectofeffectingthisend.Thenagaincottonnaturally,
especiallyEgyptiancotton,containsasmallquantityofabrowncolouringmatter,
andthiswouldinterferewiththepurityofanypaletintsofblue,rose,yellow,
green,etc.,whichmaybedyedonthecotton,andsoitbecomesnecessaryto
removethiscolourandrenderthecottonquitebright.Thisiscommonlycalled
"bleaching".Itisthesepreparatoryprocessesthatwillbedealtwithinthischapter.
ScouringCotton.Whendarkshadesblacks,browns,olives,sages,greens,etc.,
aretobedyeditisnotneedfultosubjectthecottontoableachingoperation,but
simplytoascouringbyboilingitwithsodaorcausticsoda.Thisisveryoften
carriedoutinthesamemachineasthegoodswillbedyedinthus,forinstance,in
thecaseofpieces,theywouldbechargedinajigger,thiswouldbefilledwitha
liquormadefromsodaorfromcausticsoda,andthepiecesrunfromendtoend,
whiletheliquorisbeingheatedtotheboilusuallyhalftothreequartersofan
hourissufficient.Thenthealkaliliquorisrunout,cleanwaterrunintothejigger
andthepieceswashed,afterwhichthedyes,etc.,arerunintothejiggerandthe
dyeingdone.Thereisusuallyused2lb.to3lb.ofcausticsoda,or3lb.to4lb.of
sodaforeach100lb.ofgoodssotreated.
[Pg24]
Iftheordinarydyeingmachinesarenotusedforthispurpose,thentheordinary
bleachers'kiersmaybeused.Thesewillbedescribedpresently.
BleachingofCotton.Cottonisbleachedintheformofyarn,orinthefinished
pieces.Inthelattercasethemethoddependsverylargelyonthenatureofthe
fabricitisobviousthatfinefabrics,likemuslinsorlacecurtains,cannotstandthe
sameroughtreatmentasapieceoftwilledcalicowill.Then,again,thebleaching
processisvariedaccordingtowhatisgoingtobedonewiththegoodsaftertheyare
bleachedsometimestheyaresentoutastheyleavethebleachhouseagain,they
mayhavetobedyedorprinted.Inthefirstcasethebleachneednotbeofsucha
perfectcharacterasinthelastcase,whichagainmustbemoreperfectthanthe
secondclassofbleach.Theremayberecognised:
(1)Marketorwhitebleach.(2)Dyersorprinters'bleach.(3)Madderbleach.
Asthemadderbleachisbyfarthemostperfectofthethree,andpractically
includestheothers,thiswillbedescribedindetail,anddifferencesbetweenitand
theotherswillbethenpointedout.Apieceissubjectedtothemadderbleachwhich [Pg25]
hasafterwardstobeprintedwithmadderoralizarine.Usuallyinthiskindofwork
theclothsareprintedwithmordantcolours,andthendyedinabathofthedye
stuff.Thisstainsthewholeofthepiece,andtoridtheclothofthestainwhereithas
tobeleftwhite,itissubjectedtoasoapbath.Now,unlessthebleachhasbeen
thorough,thewhiteswillbemoreorlessstainedpermanently,andtoavoidthis
clothswhicharetobeprintedwithalizarinecoloursaremostthoroughlybleached.
Themadderbleachofthepresentdaygenerallyincludesthefollowingseriesof
operations:
(1)Stitching.(2)Singeing.(3)Singeingwash.(4)Limeboil.(5)Limesour.(6)Lye
boil.(7)Resinboil.(8)Wash.(9)Chemicing.(10)Whitesour.
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(1)Stitching.Thepiecesarefastenedtogetherbystitchingintoonelongrope,
whichispassedinacontinuousmannerthroughalloperationsinwhichsucha
proceedingispossible.Thisstitchingisdonebymachines,thesimplestofwhichis
thedonkeymachine,wherebytheendsofthepieces,whicharetobestitched
together,areforcedbyapairofcogwheelsworkingtogetherontotheneedle
carryingapieceofthread,thisisthenpulledthroughandformsarunningstitch,a
considerablelengthofthreadbeingleftoneachsidesoastopreventasfaras
possiblethepullingasunderofthepiecesbyanaccidentaldrawingoutofthe
thread.
Birch'ssewingmachineisverylargelyusedinbleachworks.Itconsistsessentially
ofaWilcox&Gibbmachinefittedonastandsoastobedrivenbypower.The
piecesarecarriedundertheneedlebyalargewheel,theperipheryofwhich
containsanumberofprojectingpinsthat,engaginginthecloth,carryitalong.
[Pg26]
Thereisalsoacontrivancebywhichthesepiecestobesewncanbekeptstretched,
thistakestheformofanarmwithclipsattheend,whichholdoneendofthecloth
whileitisrunningthroughthemachine.Thecliparrangementisautomatic,andjust
beforetheendpassesundertheneedleitisreleased,andthearmfliesbackready
forthenextpieceitis,however,notnecessarytousethisarmalways.This
machinegivesachainstitchsufficientlyfirmtoresistapullinthedirectionofthe
lengthofthepieces,butgivingreadilytoapullattheendofthethread.
TheRayer&LincolnmachineisanAmericaninvention,andismuchmore
complicatedthanBirch's.Itconsistsofasewingmachinemountedontheperiphery
ofalargerevolvingwheel.Thiscarriesanumberofpins,which,engaginginthe
clothtobestitched,carryitundertheneedleofthemachine.Besidessewingthe
piecestogetherthismachineisfittedwithapairofrevolvingcutterswhichtrimthe
endsofthepiecesastheypassthroughinaneatcleanmanner.Thereisalsoan
arrangementtomarkthepiecesastheyarebeingstitched.LikeBirch'sitproducesa
chainstitch.
Whatisimportantinsewingtheendsofpiecestogetheristogetafirmuniform
stitchthatlieslevelwiththeclothswithoutanyknotsprojecting,whichwould
catchinthebleachingmachineryduringtheprocessesofbleaching,andthismight
leadtomuchdamagebeingdone.
Shoulditbenecessarytomarkthepiecessothattheycanberecognisedafter
bleaching,thebestthingtouseisprinters'ink.Gastarisalsomuchused,andis
verygoodforthepurpose.Colouredinksdonotresistthebleachingsufficiently
welltobeusedsatisfactory.VermilionandIndianredareusedforreds,yellow
ochreisthefastestoftheyellows,thereisnobluewhichwillstandtheprocess,and
Guignet'sgreenistheonlygreenthatwillatallresisttheprocess,umberwillserve [Pg27]
forbrown.Allthesecoloursareusedintheformofprintingink.
Thenextoperationisaveryimportantone,whichcannotbetoocarefullycarried
out,thatis:
(2)Singeing.Forprintingbleachestheclothsaresinged.Thishasforitsobject
theremovalfromthesurfaceoftheclothofthefinefibreswithwhichitiscovered,
andwhichwould,ifallowedtoremain,preventthedesignsprintedonfromcoming
outwithsufficientclearness,givingthemablurredappearance.
Singeingisdoneinvariousways,bypassingtheclothoveraredhotcopperplate,
oroveraredhotrevolvingcoppercylinder,orthroughacokeflame,orthroughgas
flames,andmorerecentlyoverarodofplatinummaderedhotbyelectricity.
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Platesingeingistheoldestofthesemethodsandisstilllargelyused.Inthismethod
asemicylindricalcopperplateisheatedinasuitablefurnacetoabrightredheat,
theclothsarerapidlypassedoverit,andtheloosefibrestherebyburntoff.One
greattroubleistokeeptheplateatoneuniformheatoverthewholeofitssurface,
somepartswillgethotterthanothers,anditisonlybycarefulattentiontothefiring
ofthefurnacethatthiscanbeobtained.TogetoverthesedifficultiesWorral
introducedarollersingeingmachineinwhichtheplatewasreplacedbyarevolving
copperroller,heatedbyasuitablefurnacetherollercanbekeptatamoreuniform
temperaturethantheplate.Thesingeobtainedbytheplateandrollerisgood,the
principalfaultbeingthatiftheclothshappentogetpresseddowntoomuchonthe
hotplatethelooseendsarenotburntoffastheyshouldbe.Withbothplateand
rollertheclothsaresingedonlyononeside,andifbothsidesrequiretobesingeda
secondpassageisnecessary.Bothsystemsstillretaintheirholdastheprincipal
[Pg28]
methodsinuse,notwithstandingtheintroductionofmoremodernmethods.
SingeingbypassingtheclothsoverarowofBunsenburnershascomelargelyinto
use.Thishasthegreatadvantageofbeingverycleanly,andofdoingtheworkvery
effectually,muchmorethoroughlythananyothermethod,whichisduetothefact
thatwhileinthemethodsdescribedaboveonlytheloosefibresonthesurfaceare
burntoffwithgasalltheloosefibresareburntoff.Thisisbroughtaboutbythegas
flamepassingstraightthroughthecloth.Itisnotnecessarytodescribethegas
singeingmachineindetail.Singeingmachinesshouldbekeptscrupulouslyclean
andfreefromfluff,whichisliabletocollectroundthem,andveryliabletofire.
Somemachinesarefittedwithafluehavingapowerfuldraughtwhichcarriesoff
thisfluff,awayfromanysourceofdanger.
(3)SingeingWash.Afterbeingsingedtheclothsarerunthroughawashing
machinetoremovebywaterasmuchoftheloosecharredfibresaspossible.The
constructionofawashingmachineiswellknown.Itconsistsofapairoflarge
woodenrollerssetaboveatroughcontainingwaterandintowhichaconstant
streamofwaterflows.Inthetroughisalsofixedanotherwoodenrollerandthe
piecesarepassedroundthisbottomrollerandbetweenthetoprollers.Theclothis
passedthroughandroundtherollersseveraltimesinaspiralformsothatitpasses
throughthewaterinthetroughfrequently,whichisagreatadvantage,asthewash
isthusmuchmoreeffectual.Thepressurebetweenthetwotoprollerspressesout
anysurpluswater.Theoperationscarcelyneedsanyfurtherdescription.
(4)LimeBoil.Aftertheclothleavesthesingeingorgreywash,asitisoften
called,itpassesthroughthelimingmachine,whichismadeverysimilartothe
washingmachine.Inthisitpassesthroughmilkoflime,whichshouldbemade
fromfreshlyslakedlime.Thelattermaybepreparedinapastyforminastone
cistern.Thelimeusedshouldbeofgoodquality,freefromstones,badlyburnt
piecesoranyotherinsolublematerial,sothatwhenslakeditshouldgiveafine
smoothpastymass.
[Pg29]
Limeshouldnotbeslakedtoolongbeforeusing,asitabsorbscarbonicacidfrom
theatmosphere,wherebycarbonateoflimeisformed,andthisisuselessforliming
cloth.Thepastyslakedlimemaybemixedwithwatertoformthemilkoflime,and
thiscanberunfromthecisterninwhichitispreparedintothelimingmachineasit
isrequiredthesupplypipeshouldberunintothebottomofthetroughofthe
limingmachineandnotoverthetop,inwhichlattercaseitmaysplashontothe
clothsandleadtooverliming,whichisnottobedesiredonaccountofitsliability
torotthecloth.Theamountoflimeusedvariesindifferentbleachworks,andthere
isnoruleonthesubjectabout5lb.to7lb.ofdrylimeto100lb.ofclothmaybe
takenasafairquantitytouse.
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Thelimeboilhasforitsobjecttheremovalorratherthesaponificationofthe
resinousandfattymatterspresentinthegreycloth,eithernaturallyorwhichhave
beenaddedintheprocessofweaving,orhavegotupontheclothaccidentally
duringtheprocessesofspinningandweaving.Withthesebodiesthelimeforms
insolublelimesoapstheseremaininthecloth,butinaformeasilydecomposable
andremovablebytreatmentwithacidsandwashing.Sodaorpotashisnotnearlyso
goodforthisfirstboilingaslimeforwhatreasonissomewhatuncertain,but
probablybecausetheyformwiththegreaseintheclothssolublesoaps,which
mightfloataboutthekierandaccumulateinplaceswheretheyarenotrequiredand
thusleadtostains,whereastheinsolublelimesoapremainswhereitwasformed.
Thelimealsoseemstoattackthenaturalcolouringmatterofthecotton,and
althoughthecolourofthelimedclothisdarkerthanbeforeboiling,yetthenature
ofthecolourissoalteredthatitismoreeasilyremovedintheafterprocesses.
[Pg30]
Besidesthesechangesthestarchymattersputintotheclothinthesizingare
dissolvedaway.Greatcareshouldbetakentoseethatthegoodsareevenlylaidin
thekiers,nottootight,ortheliquorwillnotpenetrateproperlyandnottooslack,
ortheywillfloataboutandgetentangledandmoreorlessdamaged.Thenagain
careshouldbetaken,especiallywhenusinglowpressurekiers,toseethatthe
supplyofliquordoesnotgettoolow,inwhichcasethegoodsintheupperpartof
thekierareliabletogetdryandaretenderedthereby.Solongasthegoodsinthe
kiersarenotallowedtogetdrythereisnoriskofdamagethistroublerarelyarises
withtheBarlowandinjectorkiers.Theinsideofthekiersshouldbekeptwell
limed,sothatthegoodsshallnotcomeincontactwiththebareironormetalof
whichthekierisconstructed,asthiswouldbeverylikelytoleadtostainsbeing
producedwhicharebynomeanseasytoremove.Itisusual,anditisagoodplan
withalmostallkindsofkiers,excepttheMatherandEdmestonkiers,toputa
numberoflargepebblesorsmallstonesatthebottomofthekier,whichservesto
makeafalsebottomonwhichthegoodsrestandthroughwhichtheliquor
penetratesandflowsaway.Beforeusing,thestonesshouldbewellwashedtofree
themfromdirtandgrit.
Thelimeboiliscarriedoutinwhatarecalled"kiers".Manyformsofkiershave
beendevised,buttheoneinmostgeneraluseisthatknownasthe"injectorkier,"of
whichadrawingisgiveninFig.4,oftheformmadebyMessrs.Mather&Plattof
Salford.Injectorkiersaremadetoworkeitherunderapressureof40lb.to50lb.of
steampersquareinch,whentheyarecalledhighpressurekiers,oratapressureof
15lb.to20lb.,whentheyarecalledlowpressurekiers.Theoneshowninthe
drawingisintendedforlowpressurekiers.Theprincipleofconstructionisthe
[Pg31]
sameinall,thedetailsvaryingsomewhatwithdifferentmakers.Injector
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Fig.4.Mather&Platt'sLowpressureBleachingKier.
kiersconsistofahollow,uprightironcylindermadeofplatesrivetedtogetherthe
topismadetoliftoff,butcanbefasteneddowntightlybymeansofboltsandnuts
asshowninthedrawing.Fromthebottom,andplacedcentrally,risesapipe,
knownasthepufferpipethisterminatesatthetopinarosearrangement.The
lowerendofthepipeisperforated.Ajetofsteamissentinatthebottomofthis
pipe,andbyitsforceanyliquoratthebottomofthekierisforcedupthepuffer
pipeanddistributedinasprayoveranygoodswhichmaybeinthekier.Theliquor
ultimatelyfindsitswaytothebottomofthekierreadytobeblownupagain.This
circulationoftheliquorcanbemaintainedforanylengthoftimeandthroughits
agencyeverypartofthegoodsgetsthoroughandeffectualtreatment.
[Pg32]
Thelengthoftheboildependsuponthekierswiththeopenkierabouttenhours
areusuallygiven,withtheBarlowandinjectorkiers,workingatapressureof40
lb.to50lb.,sixtosevenhoursaregiven.
(5)LimeorGreySour.Afterthelimeboil,thenextoperationisthatofthelime
sourorgreysourasitisoftencalledtodistinguishitfromasubsequentsouring.
Thesouringisdoneinamachineconstructedinthesamewayasawashing
machinethetroughofthemachineisfilledwithhydrochloricacidat2Tw.,
whichiskeptreadypreparedinastonecisternandrunintothemachineasrequired
(itisnotadvisabletouseacidstrongerthanthis).Afterpassingthroughthesourthe
goodsarepiledinaheaponthestillageforafewhours.Theacidattacksthelime
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soapwhichwasformedduringthelimeboil,decomposesitanddissolvesoutthe
limewiththeformationofcalciumchloride,whilethefatofthesoapisliberated,
theformeriswashedawayinthesubsequentwashing,whilethelatterremainstoa
largeextentonthegoods,andisremovedbythelyeboilthatfollows.Sulphuric
acidisnotsosatisfactorytouseforthelimesourashydrochloricacid,becauseit
formswiththelimetheinsolublesulphateofcalcium,whichisdifficulttoentirely
removefromthegoods,whereasthechlorideisverysolubleandisentirely
eliminatedfromthegoodsbythewashingthatfollows.
[Pg33]
Itisadvisabletokeeptheacidatauniformstrengthinthemachine.TheTwaddell
ishereofnouseasanindicatoroftheactualstrength,becausethelimewhichthe
aciddissolves,whileitneutralisesandreducesthestrengthoftheacid,actually
raisestheTwaddell,underwhichcircumstancetheonlysafemethodisachemical
test.Thiscanbecarriedoutverysimplyandwithasufficientdegreeofaccuracyby
theworkmen,andifitbedoneatregularintervalsduringthesouring,andthe
supplyofthefreshacidberegulated,thesourwillbekeptatamoreuniform
strengthandmoreuniformresultswillbeobtainedthanifthesouringweredonein
amoreempiricalfashion.Thetestisbestandmosteasilydoneasfollows:
Prepareasolutionof1oz.ofthepowderedhighstrength98percent.causticsoda
in1pintofwater,weighingandmeasuringthesequantitiesverycarefully.Now
takeatall,narrow,whitebottleofabout5oz.capacityandmakeamarkonthe
neck.Fillthisbottlewiththetestsolution.
Nowtakeexactly5ozs.offreshlypreparedsourof2Tw.,pourintoajar,andadd
carefullysomeofthesodatestsolutionuntilapieceofclothdyedwithturmericis
turnedbrown,whentheacidisneutralised.Nowmakeamarkonthebottleofsoda
toshowhowmuchhasbeenused.Inallsubsequenttestsofthesour5ozs.should
alwaystakethesamequantityofsodasolutionifittakeslessitistooweak,if
moreitistoostrongtheremedyineachcaseisobvious.Itisworthwhileto
graduatethetestbottlefor1,3,4,5Twaddell,aswellasfor2Tw.acid.
Afterthesouringitisoftenthecustomtopilethegoodsontoawoodenstillage,
butthegoodsshouldnotbelefttoolongsopiledupfortheymaybecomedry,
eitherentirelyorinparts.Inanycase,asthegoodsdrytheacidbecomes
concentratedandattacksthemandmakesthemtender,whichisnotatalldesirable.
Therefore,ifitisnotconvenienttoproceedwiththemforsometimeaftersouring,
theyshouldbemoistenedwithwaterfromtimetotime,butitisbesttowashthem
offatonce,wherebytheyaremadereadyforthenextoperation.
[Pg34]
(6)LyeBoil.Thisis,perhaps,themostimportantoperationinthewholeprocess
ofbleaching,especiallyiftheclothsaregoingtobeprintedinthesocalledmadder
stylewithalizarinecolours,orotherwisestainsareliabletooccurinthefinalstage,
anditisthensometimesdifficulttoputtheblamefortheseupontheright
shoulders.
Inprinciplethelyeboilissimple,consistinginboilingthegoodswithasolutionof
sodaash,orcausticsoda.Thequantityofashusedvariesindifferentworks,as
mightnaturallybeexpectedfrom170lb.to200lb.ofashto10,000lb.ofclothisa
fairproportiontouse.Thelengthofboilaveragesaboutfourhours,certainlynot
lessthanthreeshouldbegiven,anditisnotnecessarytogivemorethanfivehours
ineitherordinarykiers,withcentralpufferpipe,orininjectorkiers.
Careshouldbetakentoseethatthegoodsarewellpackedintothekiers,nottoo
tightlyorthelyewillfailtopenetrateequallyallthrough,andthisisimportantifa
uniformbleachisdesiredneithershouldtheybetooloose,ortheywillfloatabout
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andgettorn.Itisnotnecessarytobeparticularaboutthequantityofwaterused,
exceptthatitmustbesufficienttokeepthegoodswellcovered,andstillhave
enoughtokeepthecirculationenergetic.Whenthewaterisnotsufficientinamount
thegoodsgetsomewhatdrythereisthenaliabilitytotendering,butwithplentyof
waterthereisnofearofanydamagebeingdoneduringaboilwithalkali.Some
worksusecausticsodainsteadofsodaashinwhichcaselessisrequired,from120
lb.to150lb.to10,000lb.ofcloth,otherwisenoalterationismadeinthemodeof
[Pg35]
boiling.
Thislyeboilclearsawaythefattyandwaxymatterleftinthegoodsafterthelime
sour,andthuspreparesthewayforthenextboil.Thereisnoadvantageinusing
causticsodainthispreliminaryboil,sodaashbeingjustaseffectiveandcheaper.
(7)ResinBoil.Followingthelyeboilistheresinboilwhichconsistsinboiling
thegoodsinaresinsoapliquor.Thisismadeasfollows:asodaashliquorofabout
15to20Tw.isprepared,andintothisisthrownresin,brokenupintosmall
pieces.
Thewholeisboiledupuntiltheresinisdissolved,andthenasmuchmoreisadded
insmallquantitiesasthealkaliwilltakeup.Thesodaliquorshouldnotbemuch
weakerthan20Tw.,itwillthenbeheavierthantheresinwhichwillfloatonthe
top,itisfoundtodissolvequickerandbetterthanwhentheliquorisweak,inwhich
case,theresinwouldsinktothebottomoftheboilerandwouldtheremeltintoa
singlemassdifficulttodissolve.Theresinsoapliquorwhenmadeisreadytobe
used.Theproportionsofresinandalkaliusedintheboilvaryindifferentworks,
but,asarule,thequantitiesfor10,000lb.ofgoodsare430lb.of58percent.soda
ash,180lb.ofresin,and80lb.of70percent.causticsoda.Toomuchresinshould
beavoided,asitisfoundthatwithanexcessthewhitesobtainedarenotnearlyso
goodaswhentherightquantityisusedontheotherhand,toolittleactsmuchin
thesameway.Itmaybetakenthatfrom1to1percent.oftheweightofthe
goodsisabouttherightproportion1percent.beingtoolittle,and2percent.too
much.Thequantityofsodausedshouldberathermorethantwicethatoftheresin,
from3to4percent.Thelengthofboilisusuallyabouttwelvehoursinalow
pressurekierinahighpressurekieraboutsevenhoursissufficient.
[Pg36]
Whatthespecialfunctionoftheresinisinthisboilisnotdefinitelyknownbut
experience,bothonalargeandsmallscale,provesthatitisessentialtoobtaininga
goodwhiteforalizarineprintingwithoutit,whenthegoodsaredyedwithalizarine
afterthemordantshavebeenprintedon,theyfrequentlytakeabrownstainwith
theresinthisneverorbutrarelyhappens.
(8)Wash.Afterthelyeboilsthegoodsmustbewashed,anditisimportantthat
thisbedoneinasthoroughamanneraspossible.Withtheobjectofaccomplishing
thismostthoroughlymanywashingmachineshavebeeninvented,themainideain
allbeingtobringeverypartofthegoodsintocontactwithasmuchwateras
possible.Bridson'sisanoldform,andaverygoodone,theprincipleofthis
machineistocausetheclothtopasstoandfro,andtoflapuponthesurfaceofthe
waterinthetroughofthemachine.
Furnival'ssquarebeaterworksonmuchthesameprinciple,anddoesitswork
effectively.MoremodernwashingmachinesarethoseofBirch,Farmer,Mather&
Platt,andHawthorne,wherebythepeculiarconstructionoftherollersandtheuse
ofbeaterstheclothisveryeffectuallywashed.Thesemachinesaremuchmore
economicalintheuseofwaterthantheolderforms,andyettheydotheirworkas
well,ifnotbetter.
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(9)Chemicing.Thisistheactualbleachingoperation,familiarlyknownas
"chemicing,"thatis,thetreatmentofthegoodswithbleachingpowder.The
previousoperationshaveresultedinobtainingaclothfreefromgrease,naturalor
acquired,andfromotherimpurities,butitstillhasaslightbrownishcolour.This
hastoberemovedbeforethegoodscanbeconsideredagoodwhite,whichitisthe
aimofeverybleachertheyshouldbe.
Togetridofthiscolourtheyaresubjectedtosomefinaloperations,thefirstof
whichisnowtobeconsidered.Thechemicingconsistsinrunningthegoods
throughaweaksolutionofbleachingpowder(chlorideoflime),pilingthegoodsup [Pg37]
intoheaps,andallowingthemtolieovernight,thenextdaytheyarefinished.As
theclothhasreceived,oroughttohavereceived,athoroughbottoming,onlya
weakbathofchemicisrequired,aboutto1Tw.isquitesufficient.Thesolution
ispreparedinastonecistern.Thereisverylittledifficultyinmakingit,theonly
precautionnecessaryistohavethesolutionquiteclearandfreefromundissolved
particles,forifthesegetuponthecloththeywilleitherleadtotheproductionof
minuteholes,ortheymayoverbleachthefibre,whichinsuchcasewillhavethe
powerofattractingexcessofcolourinanysubsequentdyeingprocessandthuslead
tostains,theoriginofwhichmaynotbereadilygraspedatthefirstsight.
Itisbest,therefore,eithertoallowthesolutiontosettleinthecisterntillquiteclear,
whichisthesimplestway,ortofilterthroughcloth.
Thechemicingisbestdonecoldandwithweaksolution,atTw.ratherthan1
Tw.Warmingtheliquorincreasestherapidityofthebleachingaction,butthereisa
riskofoverchloring,whichmustbeavoidedasfaraspossible,becausethereis
thendangeroftenderingthefibre,moreover,suchoverchloredclothhasan
affinityforcolouringmattersthatisnotatalldesirable,asitleadstotheproduction
ofstainsandpatchesinthedyeingoperations.Itismuchbetter,whenasingle
chemicingdoesnotbleachtheclothsufficientlyandgiveawhite,torunthecloth
twicethroughaweakliquorratherthanoncethroughastrongliquor.
Althoughthechemicingisfollowedbyasour,which,actingonthebleaching
powder,liberateschlorinethatbleachesthefabric,yetthegreatestproportionofthe
bleachingeffectisbroughtaboutwhilethepiecesarebeingpiledupintoheaps
betweenthechemicingandthesour.Inthisstatetheyshouldbeleftforsomehours,
coveredoverwithadampsheet,carebeingtakenthattheyarenotleftpiledsolong [Pg38]
astobecomedry,asinthiseventthereisagreatriskoftenderingtheclothor
fabricitis,therefore,agoodplantomoistenthemwithalittlewaterfromtimeto
time.Theyshouldnotbetightlypiledup,butbeaslooseaspossible,sothattheair
cangettothem,asitisthecarbonicacidandotheracidvapoursintheair,thatby
actingonthechemiccausesslowliberationofchlorine,whicheffectsthebleaching
ofthegoods.
(10)WhiteSour.Afterthechemicingthegoodsaretreatedtoasour,forwhich
purposeeitherhydrochloricacidorsulphuricacidmaybeused.
Hydrochloricacidpossessestheadvantageofformingamoresolublesaltoflime
(calciumchloride)thandoessulphuricacid(calciumsulphate),andithasamore
solventactionuponanytracesofironandothermetallicoxidestainswhichmaybe
presentinthegoods.Ontheotherhand,onaccountofitsfumingproperties,itis
unpleasanttoworkwith.Thesouringisdonebypassingthegoodsthroughanacid
liquorat2Tw.strongandpilingfortwoorthreehours,afterwhichitiswashed.
Thisfinalwashingmustbethorough,sothatalltracesofacidandchemicare
washedout,otherwisethereisatendencyforthegoodstoacquireayellowish
colouration.
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Sofartheroutinehasbeendescribedofthesocalledmadderbleach,themost
perfectkindofbleachappliedtocottoncloths.Besidesthistwootherkindsof
bleacharedistinguishedinthetrade.Turkeyredandmarketbleach.Theformeris
usedwhentheclothoryarnistobedyedplainorselfcolouredwithdelicateshades
withAlizarinethelatterisusedforclothsoldinthewhite.Astheoperations
involvedinproducingtheseareidenticalintheirmethodofmanipulationtothose
alreadydescribed,itwillonlybenecessarytogiveanoutlineoftheprocessfor
[Pg39]
eachone.
TurkeyRedBleach(1)Rinsethroughwaterintoakierandboilfortwohours.
(2)Limeboilforthreetofourhours.Theamountoflimerequiredisratherlessthan
whatisusedwiththemadderbleach,from2lb.to3lb,limetoeach1cwt.of
goodsbeingquitesufficient.(3)Souringasinthemadderbleach.(4)Lyeboil,
usingabout100lb.causticsodatoatonofgoods,andgivingtenhours'boil.(5)
Secondlyeboilusingabout50lb.sodaashtoatonofgoods,afterwhichthegoods
arewellwashed.(6)Chemicingaswiththemadderbleach.(7)Souringaswiththe
madderbleach,thenwashingwell.
Thisrepresentsanaverageprocess,butalmosteverybleacherhashisownmethods,
differingfromtheaboveinsomeofthedetailsandthisappliestoallbleaching
processes.Itisobviousthatthedetailsmaybevariedtoagreatextentwithout
changingtheprinciplesonwhichtheprocessdepends.
MarketBleachHereallthatrequirestobedoneistogettheclothofasufficient
degreeofwhitenesstopleasetheeyeofthecustomer.Marketbleachershave,
however,todealwithawiderrangeofgoodsthanisdealtwithintheformerkinds
ofbleaches,fromveryfinemuslinstoveryheavysheetings.Nowitisobviousfrom
amerelymechanicalpointofview,thattheformercouldnotstandasrougha
processasthelatter,thereforetheremustbesomedifferencesinthedetailsof
muslinbleachingandsheetingbleaching.Thenagainwithgoodssoldinthewhite,
itiscustomarytoweavecolouredheadingsormarkings,andasthesehavetobe
preserved,todosowillcausesomeslightalterationofthedetailsofthebleachwith
thisobject.Onallthesepointsitisdifficulttolaydowngeneralrulesbecauseofthe
veryvaryingfeatureoftheconditionswhicharemetwithbythemarketbleacher.
Theresinboilmaybeomitted,onlytwolyeboilsbeingrequired,andtheseneed
notbesolongorofsuchasearchingcharacterasthecorrespondingboilsofthe
madderbleach.Outlinesoftwoorthreesuchprocesses,whicharenowinusein
bleachworks,willservetoshowthegeneralroutineofamarketbleach.The
proportionsgivenarecalculatedfor10,000lb.ofgoods:
[Pg40]
(1)Limeboil,using500lb.oflime,andgivingatwelvehours'boil.
(2)Greysour,hydrochloricacidof2Tw.,thenwashwell.
(3)Lyeboil,100lb.causticsoda,70percent.solid,tentotwelvehours'boilwash.
(4)Secondlyeboil,100lb.,58percent.sodaash,twelvehours'boil.
(5)Chemic,bleachingpowderliquorat1Tw.,boilforthreehourswash.
(6)Whitesour,sulphuricacidat2Tw.washwell.
Thelengthofboilwiththelimeandlyeswilldependuponthequalityofthegoods,
heavygoodswillrequirefromtwotothreehourslongerthanwilllightgoods,such
ascambrics,thetimegivenabovebeingthatforheavygoods,sheetings,etc.
Anotherprocessisthefollowing:
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(1)Limeboil,using480lb.lime,andboilingfortenhours.
(2)Greysour,hydrochloricacidat2Tw.wash.
(3)Lyeboil,300lb.sodaash,58percent.50lb.causticsoda,70percent.,and30
lb.softsoap,givingtenhours'boilwash.
(4)Chemicasabove.
(5)Whitesourasabovewashwell.
Asmallerquantityoflimeisusedhere,butontheotherhandthelyeboilisa
strongerone.Thisprocessgivesgoodresults.Somebleachersdonotuselimein
theirmarketbleaches,butgivetwolyeboils,inwhichcasetheprocessbecomes:
[Pg41]
(1)Lyeboil,using140lb.causticsoda,of70percent.,givingtenhours'boiland
washingwell.
(2)Secondlyeboil,using120lb.sodaash,58percent.,andgivingtenhours'boil
wash.
(3)Chemicasabove.
(4)Whitesourasabovewashwell.
Lightfabrics,suchaslaces,lacecurtains,muslins,etc.,cannotstandthestrainof
thecontinuousprocess,andtheyarethereforesubjectedtoadifferentbleaching
process,whichvariesmuchatdifferentbleachworks.Onemethodistolimeby
steepingforanhourinaweaklimeliquor,usingabout2lb.oflimeto100lb.of
goodstheyarethenboiledinthekierforeighthours,afterwhichtheyarewashed.
Thiswashingisdoneinwhatarecalleddashwheels,largehollowwheels,the
interiorofeachbeingdividedintofourcompartments.Intothesethegoodsareput,
andthewheeliscausedtorevolve,whileatthesametimeacurrentofwaterflows
withsomeforceintotheinteriorofthewheelandwashesthegoods.
Thewheelsdotheirworkwell,andtheactionbeinggentlethefinestfabricscanbe
washedwithoutfearofanydamage.Itisnecessarythatthespeedatwhichtheyare
drivenshouldbesuchthatasthewheelrevolvesthegoodsarethrownfromsideto
sideofeachcompartmentifthespeedbetooslowtheywillsimplyslidedown,and
thentheydonotgetproperlywashedontheotherhand,ifthespeedbetoogreat
thencentrifugalactioncomesintoplayandthegoodsremaininastationary
positioninthewheelswiththesameresult.Astotheamountofwashing,itshould
beasbefore.Afterthiswashingtheyareboiledagaininthekierwithsodaash,
usingabout8lb.ashfor100lb.goodsandgivingsevenhours'boil,which,after
washing,isfollowedbyasecondboilwith5lb.ashand4lb.softsoapforeach100
[Pg42]
lb.ofgoods,givingeighthours'boil.Theyarethenwashedandenteredintothe
chemic.Thechemicingisdoneinstonecisterns,whicharefittedwithfalse
bottoms,onwhichthegoodscanrest,andwhichallowanyinsolubleparticlesof
bleachingpowdertosettleoutandpreventthemfromgettingonthegoods.The
liquorisusedatthestrengthofaboutTw.,andthegoodsareallowedtosteep
abouttwohourstheyarethenplacedinahydroextractorandthesurpluschemicis
whizzedout,afterwhichtheyaresteepedinsourofhydrochloricacidat1Tw.,
keptinastonecistern,thegoodsbeingallowedtosteepfortwohours.Nextthey
arewashed,wellwhizzed,passedthroughablueingwater,whizzedagain,and
dried.Theremarksmadewhendescribingsimilaroperationsofthemadderbleach
astotheaction,testing,etc.,ofthechemicals,areequallyapplicablehere.
Anotherplanofbleachingfinefabricsisshowninoutlineinthefollowingscheme:
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(1)Washboilinwaterfortwohours.
(2)Boilinsodaforfivehours,using80lb.sodaashof58percent.,and30lb.soft
soapfor1,000lb.ofgoods.
(3)Secondsodaboil,usingfrom40lb.to50lb.sodaash,and15lb.to20lb.soft
soap,givingfourhours'boilaftereachsodaboilthegoodsshouldbewashed.
(4)Chemic,usingbleachingpowderliquoratTw.,allowingthemtosteepfor
twohours,thenwashandwhiz.
(5)Whitesour,usinghydrochloricacidat2Tw.,steepingtwohourswash.
Afurtherextensionofthesameprocessissometimesgivenforthebestgoods,
whichconsists,aftertheabove,ingiving:
(6)Athirdsodaboil,using25lb.to30lb.sodaashand15lb.to20lb.softsoap,
givingonehour'sboilwashing.
(7)Chemicasbefore.
(8)Sourasbefore,afterwhichthegoodsarewellwashed.
InthebleachingofNottinghamlacecurtainsforthesodaboilsthereisusedwhatis
calledthe"dolly,"whichconsistsofalargeroundwoodentubabout5feetto6feet
indiameterandabout2feet6inchesto3feetdeepthisismadetorevolveslowly
ataboutonerevolutionperminute.Abovethetubonastrongframearearranged
fourstampersorbeaters,whicharecausedtoriseandfallbymeansofcams.The
goodsareplacedinthetubwiththescouringliquorsandthedollyissetinmotion,
thebeatersforcetheliquorintothegoods,andtherevolutionofthetubcausesthe
beaterstoworkonafreshportionofthegoodsateveryfall.
[Pg43]
Thisisratheranoldfashionedformofmachine,andisbeingreplacedbymore
modernformsofboilingkiers.Inbleachingcertainkindsofmuslinsinwhichthe
warpthreadsaredouble,andinthecaseoflacecurtains,itisnecessaryto
endeavourtokeepthethreadsasopenandprominentaspossible.Thiscannotbe
donewiththecontinuousprocess,whichputsastrainonthethreadsandthus
effacestheirindividuality.Toavoidthisthefabricshavetobedealtwithinbundles
orlumps,andonthesenostrainisput,thereforeeverythreadretainsits
individuality.Theprocessabovedescribedisapplicable.
YarnBleaching.Yarnissuppliedtothebleacherintwoforms:(1)warpsin
whichthelengthofthethreadsmayvaryfromaslittleas50toasmuchas5,000
yardsthesecanbedealtwithinmuchthesamemannerasapieceofcloth,thatis,
acontinuoussystemcanbeadopted(2)hanks,whicharetoowellknowntorequire
description.Sometimesyarnisbleachedintheformofcops,butastheresultsof
copbleachingarenotverysatisfactoryitisdoneaslittleaspossible.
WarpBleaching.Thewarp,ifverylong,isdoubledtwo,threeorfourtimes
uponitself,soastoreduceitslength.Careshouldbetakenthattheendsofthewarp
[Pg44]
aretiedtogethertopreventanychanceofentangling,whichwouldverylikely
happeniftheendswereleftloosetofloatabout.Asarule,warpsarenotlimed,but
theadoptionofthelimingwouldassistthebleaching.Inoutlinewarpbleaching
consistsofthefollowingoperations:
(1)Lyeboil,using30lb.causticsoda,70percent.,and50lb.sodaash,58per
cent.,givingsixhours'boil,andwashing.
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(2)Sweeting,boilwith80lb.sodaash,58percent.,fortwohours.
(3)Washing.
(4)Chemicing,bleachingpowderliquorat1Tw.,washing.
(5)Sour,sulphuricacidat2Tw,.washingwell.
(6)Hydroextractinganddrying.
About2,000to3,000lb.ofwarpsareusuallytreatedatonetime.
Themachineryusedmaybethesameasthatusedintheclothbleach,andeach
operationmaybeconductedinthesamemanner.Insomewarpbleachworks,while
thekiersaremadeinthesameway,theothermachinesaremadedifferently.The
chemicingandsouringisdoneinstrongcisternsprovidedwithafalsebottomin
thesethewarpsareallowedtoremainforabouttwohours.Amorecomplicated
formofchemicingcisternisalsoinuse.Thisismadeofstone,andisprovidedwith
afalsebottom.Aboveisatankorsieve,asitiscalled,havingaperforatedbottom
throughwhichtheliquorflowsonthewarpinthecisternbelow.
Underthechemicingcisternisatankintowhichtheliquorflows,andfromwhichit
ispumpedupintothesieveabove.Acirculationofliquoristhuskeptupduringthe
wholeoftheoperation.Owingtotheactionofthechemicoracidonthemetalwork
ofthepumpthereisgreatwearandtearofthelatter,necessitatingfrequentrepairs.
Thisisadefectinthisformofchemicingmachine.Fordryingthewarpsahydro
extractorisfirstusedtogetthesurplusliquorfromthegoods.Thismachineisnow [Pg45]
wellknown,andisinuseineverybleachworks,whereitisfamiliarlyknownasthe
"whiz,"andtheoperationisgenerallycalledwhizzing.Hydroextractorsare
describedundertheheadof"DyeingMachinery".
Theactualdryingofthewarpsisdoneoverthe"tins"astheyarecalled.Thesearea
numberoflargecylindersmeasuringabout20inchesindiameterandaboutfor
warpdrying5feetlong.Usuallytheyarearrangedverticallyintwotiers,eachtier
consistingofaboutfivecylinders,notarrangeddirectlyoneaboveanotherbutina
zigzagmanner,thecentresofthefirst,thirdandfifthbeinginoneline,andthe
centresoftheothersinanotherline.Thecylindersaremadetorevolvebysuitable
drivingmechanism,andintothemissentsteamatabout5lb.to10lb.pressure,
whichheatsupthecylinders,wherebythewarppassingoverthemisdried.This
dryingmaybepartialorcomplete,beingregulatedbythespeedatwhichthewarps
passoverthecylindersandbythequantityofsteampassedintothesame.The
quickerthespeedandthesmallertheamountofsteam,thelessthewarpsaredried
while,ontheotherhand,theslowerthespeedandthelargertheamountandgreater
thepressureofthesteam,thequickerandmorethoroughlyarethewarpsdried.As
thereisagreatdealofwaterformedinthecylindersbythecondensationofthe
steam,meansarealwaysprovidedforcarryingoffthiswater,asitsretentioninthe
cylindersoftenleadstoseriousresultsanddamagetothemachine.
HankBleaching.Sofarasthechemicalpartofhankbleachingisconcernedit
doesnotdifferfromthatofwarpbleachingthesameoperationsandproportionsof
chemicalsmaybeusedandinthesameorder,butthereissomedifferenceinthe
machinerywhichisused.Thehanksmaybemanipulatedintwoways:theymaybe
eitherkeptinseparatehanks,whichisthemethodmostlyinvogueinmodern
[Pg46]
bleachhouses,ortheymaybelinkedtogetherintheformofachain.Inthelatter
casetheoperationsandthemachinerymaybethesameasusedinthemadder
bleach,withafewunimportantminordifferences.Inthefinalwashingthedumping
machineisused,whichconsistsoftwowoodenbowlssetoverawoodentrough
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containingthewashwaters.Thetopbowliscoveredwithathicklayerofropeand
merelyrestsonthebottombowlbyitsownweight,andisdrivenbyfrictionfrom
thelatter.Thechainofhankspassingthroughbetweenthetwobowlshasthe
surplusliquorsqueezedoutofit,andasthereisconsiderableincreaseinthe
thicknessatthepointsoflinkagebetweenthehanks,whenthesepassthroughthe
bowlstheyliftupthetopbowl,which,whenthethickplaceshavepassedthrough,
fallsdownwithasuddenbumpuponthethinplaces,andthisbumpingdrivesout
allthesurplusliquoranddrivestheliquoritselfintotheverycentreofthehanks,
whichissometimesanadvantage.
Inmodernbleachhousesthechainformisgraduallygivingplacetothemethodof
bleachingseparatehanks,partlybecausesomanyimprovementshavebeenmadein
thehankbleachingmachineryoflateyears,whichenablesbleacherstohandlethe
yarnintheformofseparatehanksbetterthantheycoulddoformerlyandas
bleachinginseparatehanksmeansthatthecottoniskeptinamoreopenform,and
isthusmoreeasilypenetratedbythevariousliquorswhichareused,itfollowsthat
thebleachwillbebetterandmorethorough,whichiswhatthebleacheraimsat.At
thesametimeweakerliquorsor,whatisthesamething,lessmaterialcanbeused,
whichmeansasavinginthecostoftheprocess.Forbleachingyarninthehankthe
followingprocessmaybefollowedwithgoodresults:
(1)Lyeboil,using1,000lb.yarn,40lb.causticsodaof70percent.,and50lb.of
sodaashof58percent.,givingfivetosixhours'boilatlowpressure.
[Pg47]
(2)Washthroughwashingmachine.
(3)Secondlyeboil,using40lb.sodaashof58percent.,andgivingtwotothree
hours'boil,washagainthroughawashingmachine.
(4)Chemicasinwarpbleaching.
(5)Sourasinwarpbleaching.
(6)Washwell.
(7)Hydroextractanddry.
Sometimes,iftheyarnistobesoldinthreadform,beforethelastoperationit
passesthroughanother,viz.,treatingwithsoapandblueliquors,whichwillbedealt
withpresently.
Thelyeboilsaredoneintheordinarykiers,anddonotcallforfurthernotice,
exceptthatinfillingthegoodsintothekierscareshouldbetakenthatwhile
sufficientlyloosetopermitofthealkalineliquorspenetratingthroughthehanks
properly,yettheyshouldbesopackedthattheywillnotfloataboutandthus
becomeentangledanddamaged.
Thewashingisnowadaysdoneinaspecialformofwashingmachine,designedto
washthehanksquicklyandwellwithaslittleexpenditureoflabourandwashing
liquoraspossible.Therearenowseveralmakesofthesewashingmachinesonthe
market,mostofthemdotheirworkwell,anditisdifficulttosaywhichisthebest.
Somemachinesaremadetowashonlyonebundleatonce,whileotherswilldo
severalbundles.Generallytheprincipleonwhichtheyareconstructedisthesame
inall,atroughcontainingtheashliquor,overwhichissuspendedarevolvingreel
orbobbin,usuallymadeofwoodorenamellediron,thebobbinbeingpolygonalin
formsothatitwillovercomereadilyanyresistancetheyarnmayofferandcarry
thehankroundasitrevolves.Thehankdipsintothewashliquorinthetrough,and
asitisdrawnthroughbytherevolutionofthebobbinitiswashedveryeffectually.
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Themovingofthehankopensoutthethreads,andthusthewashliquorthoroughly [Pg48]
penetratestoeverypartofthehank,sothatafewminutes'runthroughthismachine
thoroughlywashestheyarn.Aconstantstreamofcleanwaterispassedthroughthe
trough.Thismachinemayalsobeusedforsoapingandsizingthehanksifrequired.
Byextendingthetroughinahorizontaldirection,andincreasingthenumberof
reelsorbobbins,thequantityofmaterialthatcanbewashedatonetimecanbe
extended,althoughnottoanindefiniteextent.Theworkmancanstartatoneendof
themachineandfillallthebobbinswithyarn,bythetimehehasfinishedthisthe
firstbobbinfulwillhavebeenwashedsufficientlyandcanbetakenoffandreplaced
withanotherquantityofyarn,andthusonebyonethebobbinsmaybeemptiedand
refilled,whichmeansthataconsiderableamountofmaterialcanbegotthroughin
thecourseofaday.Toavoidthelabourofwalkingtoandfrotofillandrefillthe
bobbins,washingmachinesareconstructedinwhichthetroughismadeina
circularform.Thebobbinsareplacedattheendsofradialarmswhicharecausedto
revolveroundoverthetrough,theworkmanisstationedconstantlyatonepartof
thecircle,andasthearmspasshimintheirmotionroundthetroughhetakesoff
thewashedhanksandputsontheunwashedhanks.Bythismachineheissaveda
veryconsiderableamountoflabour,andisabletodohisworkinamore
convenientmanner.Theyarniswellwashedinsuchamachine.Thetroughmaybe
entireoritmaybedividedintoanumberofcompartments,eachofwhichmay
containadifferentkindofwashliquorifnecessary.Ofcourseitgoesalmost
withoutsayingthatinallthesemachinestheliquorsinthemmaybeheatedupby
meansofsteampipesifrequired.
Thechemicingandsouringofthehanksdoesnotcallforspecialmention,beyond
thefactthattheseoperationsaredoneinthesamemanneraswarpbleaching.In
[Pg49]
Fig.5isshownMather&Platt'syarnbleachingkier,whichisdesignedtobleach
cottonyarn,eitherinhanksorinthewarpforms,withoutremovingitfromthe
vesselintowhichitisfirstplaced.Theprocessisasfollows:Thehotalkalisolution
iscirculatedbymeansofadistributingpipethroughtheactionofaninjectoror
centrifugalpumptoscourtheyarnthenwateriscirculatedbymeansofa
centrifugalpumpforwashing.Thechemicandsourliquorsarecirculatedalsoby
meansofpumps,sothatwithouttheslightestdisturbancetotheyarnitisquickly
andeconomicallybleached.
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FIG.5.Mather&Platt'sYarnbleachingKier.
STAINSANDDAMAGESINBLEACHEDGOODS.
[Pg50]
Someofthestainsinbleachedgoodswhicharemetarebeyondthecontrolofthe
bleachertoavoid,whileothersareduetovariousdefectsintheprocess.Nowthe
subjectofstainscanonlybedealtwithinaverygeneralway,becauseofthe
varyingmannerinwhichtheyarise.Therecognitionoftheparticularwayinwhich
thestainshavebeenformedissometimesdifficulttodiscover.First,thereareiron
stains,whicharethemostcommonkindofstainsthatableacheristroubledwith.
Thesegenerallymaketheirappearanceintheformofredspotsofgreaterorless
extent.Asaruletheyarenotvisiblebeforethepiecesarefullybleached.Their
originisvaried.Sometimestheyarisefromthemachineryifthekiersarenotkept
thoroughlywhitewashedout,thereisagreatliabilitytoproduceironstains.Every
othermachinewhichisusedintheprocessismadeofiron,andshouldbekeptfree
fromrust,orthechancesofstainsareconsiderablyincreased.Thewaterusedinthe
bleachingmustbefreefromiron.Asmalltracewillnotmakemuchdifference,but
somewaterscontainagreatdealofiron,somuchsothattheyareabsolutely
unusableforbleachingpurposes.Ironstainsareoftenduetoaverycuriouscause:
thedroppingoftheoilusedinthespinningorweavingmachineryontothecotton
duringtheprocessofmanufacture.Thisoilisoftenchargedwithironderivedfrom
thewearandtearofthemachinery,andwhichoftengetsfixedintheformofred
spotsofoxideonthefibre.Ironstainscannotreadilybeextracted.
Oilstainsarealsocommon.Thesetaketheformofbrightyellowstainsinvarious
shapes,sometimesextendingalongthepieceinstreaks,atothertimesinpatchesin
variousplacesaboutthepiece.Generallytheseoilstainsdonotmaketheir
appearanceassoonasthepieceisbleached,andoftenthebleachersendsouthis
goodsquitewhiteandapparentlyallright,andyetsoonafterwardscomesa
complaintthatthegoodsarestainedyellow.Onecauseoftheseyellowoilstains
canbetracedtotheuseofparaffinwaxinthesizingofthewarps.Inthiscasethe
stainsaremoreorlessstreakyinform,andextendalongthelengthofthepiece.
Theyareduetothefactthatparaffinwaxisnotsaponifiablebytheactionofthe
[Pg51]
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alkaliesusedintheprocess,andisthereforenotextracted.Whenthegoodsare
chemicedthechlorineactsupontheparaffinandformschlorinecompounds,which
areacteduponbylight,andturnyellowbyexposuretothatagentandtothe
atmosphere.Paraffin,whenusedforthesizingofwarps,maysometimesbe
completelyextractedfromthefabric,butthisdependsupontheproportionoftallow
orotherfatwhichisusedinthecompositionofthesizinggrease.Iftheparaffinis
onlypresentinsmallquantities,andthegreasewellmixed,thenitmaybepossible
toextractalltheparaffinoutofthefabricduringthebleachingprocess,butifthe
paraffinisinlargeproportion,orthegreasenotwellmixed,itisscarcelypossible
toextractitallout,andstainsmustbetheresult.Thesestainscanhardlybe
consideredthefaultofthebleacher,butareduetothemanufacturerofthecloth
usingcheapsizingcompositionsonhiswarps.Therearenomeanswhichcanbe
adoptedbeforebleachingtoascertainwhetherparaffinexistsinthecloth.Iffound
tobepresent,theremedywhichistheeasiestpracticallyistosaturatetheclothwith
alittleoliveoil,orbetter,paleoleicacid.Allowthefattymattertosoakwellin,and
thenboilthegoodsinalittlecausticsoda.Anothercauseofoilstainsistheuseof
mineraloilsinthelubricationofcottonmachinery.Thesemineraloilspartakeof
[Pg52]
thenatureofparaffinintheirproperties,andthereforetheyareunsaponifiableby
theactionofalkalies.Likeparaffinwax,theyresistthebleachingprocess,and
muchinthesamemannerproducestains.Oilstainsshowthemselvesinvarious
formssometimesasspots.Thesemaybeduetothesplashingofoilfromthe
spindlesduringtheprocessofspinning,ortheymaybeinpatchesofa
comparativelylargesizeoverthepieces.
Theseareperhapsduetotheoildroppingontothepieceduringtheprocessof
weavingwhenintheloom.Theoilsusedforthelubricationofspinningand
weavingmachineryshouldcontainafairproportionofsomefattyoil,suchasolive
orrapeorcocoanutoil.Notlessthan10percent.shouldbeused.Morewouldbe
better,butthecostofcoursewouldbegreaterandoilisanitemwithspinnersand
manufacturers.
Stainsareoccasionallyduetoothercausesrathertoonumeroustobedealtwithin
detail,andsometimesthesestainsonlyappearonceinalifetime,andoftendonot
maketheirappearanceduringthebleachingprocess,butonlyinafterdyeingor
calicoprintingprocessesincuriouswaysthecausesofwhichareverybafflingto
findout.
[Pg53]
CHAPTERIII.
DYEINGMACHINERYANDDYEINGMANIPULATIONS.
Cottonisdyedinavarietyofforms:raw,loosecotton,partlymanufacturedfibrein
theformofslubbingorsliver,spunfibresoryarnswoundincoporbobbinforms,
inhanksorskeinsandinwarps,andlastlyintheformofwovenpieces.These
differentformsnecessitatetheemploymentofdifferentformsofmachineryand
differentmodesofhandlingitisevidenttotheleastunobservantthatitwouldbe
quiteimpossibletosubjectslubbingorslivertothesametreatmentasyarnorcloth,
otherwisetheslubbingwouldbedestroyedandrenderedvalueless.
Intheearlydaysalldyeingwasdonebyhandinthesimplestpossiblecontrivances,
butduringthelastquarterofacenturytherehasbeenagreatdevelopmentinthe
quantityofdyeingthathasbeendone,andthishasreallynecessitatedthe
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applicationofmachinery,forhandworkcouldnotpossiblycopewiththeamount
ofdyeingnowdone.Consequentlytherehasbeendevisedduringthepasttwo
decadesagreatvarietyofmachinesfordyeingeverydescriptionoftextilefabrics,
somehavenotbeenfoundapracticalsuccessforavarietyofreasonsandhavegone
outofuse,othershavebeensuccessfulandareinuseindyeworks.
HANDDYEING.
Dyeingbyhandiscarriedoninthesimplestpossibleappliancesmuchdepends
uponwhethertheworkcanbedoneattheordinarytemperatureorattheboil.Figs.
6and7showrespectivelyarectangularvatandaroundtubmuchinuseindye
houses.Thesearemadeofwood,but
[Pg54]
FIG.6.RectangularDyetank.
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FIG.7.RoundDyetub.
copperdyevatsarealsomade.Thesemaybeusedforallkindsofmaterial,loose
fibre,yarnsorcloth.Inthecaseofloosefibrethisisstirredabouteitherwithpoles
orwithrakes,carebeingtakentoturneverypartoverandoverandopenoutthe
[Pg55]
massesoffibreasmuchaspossibleinordertoavoidmattingorclottingtogether.
Inthecaseofyarnsorskeins,thesearehungonsticksrestingontheedgesofthe
tuborvat.Thesesticksarebestmadeofhickory,butashorbeechoranyhard
woodthatcanbeworkedsmoothandwhichdoesnotswellmuchwhentreatedwith
watermaybeused.Theusualmethodofworkingistohangtheskeinonthestick,
spreadingitoutasmuchaspossible,thenimmersetheyarnintheliquor,liftitup
anddowntwoorthreetimestofullywetouttheyarn,thenturntheyarnoveronthe
stickandrepeatthedippingprocesses,thenallowtosteepinthedyeliquor.Thisis
donewiththebatchofyarnthatistobedyedatatime.Whenalltheyarnhasbeen
enteredintothedyebath,thefirststickfulisliftedout,theyarnturnedoverandre
enteredinthedyeliquor,thisoperationiscarriedoutwithallthesticksofyarn
untilthecottonhasbecomedyedoftherequireddepth.Inthecaseoflong
rectangularvatsitiscustomaryfortwomen,oneoneachsideofthevattoturnthe
yarns,eachmantakingchargeoftheyarnwhichisnearesttohim.Theturningover
onelotofyarnistechnicallycalled"oneturn"andthedyeroftengives"threeturns"
or"fourturns"asmayberequired.
Wovengoodsmaybedyedinthetuborvat,thepiecesbeingdrawninandoutby
poles,buttheresultsarenotaltogethersatisfactoryanditispreferabletouse
machinesfordyeingpiecegoods.
Plaintubsorvats,suchasthoseshowninFigs.6and7,areusedfordyeing,and
otherwisetreatinggoodsinthecold,oratalukewarmheat,whenthesupplyofhot
watercanbedrawnfromaseparateboiler.When,however,itisnecessarytowork
attheboil,thenthevatmustbefittedwithasteamcoil.Thisisbestlaidalongthe
bottominaserpentineform.Abovethepipeshouldbeanopenlatticeworkbottom,
[Pg56]
which,whileitpermitsthefreecirculation
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FIG.8.SectionofDyevat.
ofboilingwaterinthevat,preventsthematerialbeingdyedfromcomingincontact
withthesteampipe.Thisisimportantifuniformshadesaretobedyed,forany
excessiveheatingofanyportionofthebathleadstostainsbeingproducedonthe
materialinthatpartofthebath.Fig.8showsavatfittedwithasteampipe.That
portionofthesteampipewhichpassesdownattheendofthevatisinasmall
compartmentboxedofffromthemainbodyofthevat,sothatnopartofthe
materialwhichisbeingdyedcancomeincontactwithit.Aclosedsteamcoilwill,
onthewhole,givethebestresults,asthennoweakeningofthedyeliquorcantake
placethroughdilutionbythecondensationofthesteam.Manydyevatsare,
however,fittedwithperforated,or,astheyarecalled,opensteamcoils,inwhich
casethereis,perhaps,bettercirculationoftheliquorinthedyevat,butassomeof
[Pg57]
thesteammustcondense,thereisalittledilutionofthedyeliquorinthevat.
DYEINGMACHINES.
Dyetubsandvats,suchasthosedescribedabove,havebeenlargelysupersededby
machinesinwhichthehandling,orworkingofthematerialsbeingdyediseffected
bymechanicalmeans.Therehavebeenalargenumberofdyeingmachines
invented,someofthesehavenotbeenfoundtobeverypractical,andsotheyhave
goneoutofuse.Spacewillnotadmitofadetailedaccountofeverykindof
machine,butonlyofthosewhichareinconstantuseindyeworks.
DyeingLoose,orRawCotton.Fewmachineshavebeendesignedforthis
purpose,andabouttheonlysuccessfuloneis:
Delahunty'sDyeingMachine.ThisisillustratedinFig.9.Itconsistsofadrum
madeoflatticework,whichcanrevolveinsideanouterwoodencasing.The
interioroftherevolvingdrumisfittedwithhooksorfingers,whoseactionisto
keepthematerialopen.Onesegmentofthedrumismadetoopen,sothattheloose
cottonorwooltobedyedcanbeinserted.Bysuitablegearingthedrumcanbe
revolvedandthedyeliquor,whichisinthelowerhalfofthewoodencasing,
penetratesthroughthelatticeworkofthedrum,anddyesthematerialcontainedin
it.Theconstructionofthemachineiswellshowninthedrawing,whilethemodeof
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workingisobviousfromitandthedescriptionjustgiven.Themachineisvery
successful,andwelladaptedfordyeingloose,orrawwoolandcotton.Thematerial
maybescoured,bleached,dyed,orotherwisetreatedinthismachine.
TheObermaiermachine,presentlytobedescribed,mayalsobeusedfordyeing
loosecottonorwool.
[Pg58]
DYEING,SLUBBING,SLIVERORCARDEDCOTTONANDWOOL.
FIG.9.Delahunty'sDyeingMachine.
Itisfoundinpracticethatthedyeingofloosewoolorcottonisnotaltogether
satisfactorytheimpuritiestheynaturallycontaininterferewiththepurityofthe
shadetheywilltake.Thenagainthedyesandmordantsusedindyeingthemare
foundtohavesomeactiononthewireofthecardingenginethroughwhichtheyare
passedatanyrateacarddoesnotlastaslongwhenworkingdyedcottonorwool
aswhenusedonundyedcottonorwoolfibres.Yetfortheproductionofcertain
fancyyarnsforweavingsomespecialclassesoffabrics,itisdesirabletodyethe
[Pg59]
cottonorwool
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FIG.10.ObermaierDyeingMachine.
beforeitisspunintothread.Thebestplanisundoubtedlytodyethefibreafterit
hasbeencardedandpartlyspunintowhatisknownasslubbingorsliver.Allthe
impuritieshavebeenremoved,thecottonfibresarelaid,straight,andsoitbecomes
mucheasiertodye.Ontheotherhand,asitisnecessarytokeepthesliveror
slubbingstraightandlevel,noworkingaboutinthedyeliquorscanbeallowedto
takeplace,andsosuchmustbedyedinspeciallyconstructedmachines,andoneof
thebestoftheseistheObermaierdyeingmachinewhichisillustratedinFig.10.
TheObermaierapparatusconsistsofadyevatA.Inthisisplacedacageconsisting
ofaninnerperforatedmetalcylinderC,andanouterperforatedmetalcylinderD,
betweenthesetwoisplacedthematerialtobedyed.Cisincontactwiththesuction
endofacentrifugalpumpP,thedeliveryendofwhichdischargesintothedyevat
A.Theworkingofthemachineisasfollows:Theslubbingorsliverisplacedinthe [Pg60]
spacebetweenCandDrathertightlysothatitwillnotmoveabout.Thentheinner
cageisplacedinthedyevatasshown.Thevatisfilledwiththedyeliquorwhich
canbeheatedupbyasteampipe.Thepumpissetinmotion,thedyeliquoris
drawnfromAtoC,and,insodoing,passesthroughthematerialpackedinBand
dyesit.Thecirculationoftheliquoriscarriedonaslongasexperienceshowstobe
necessary.Thedyeliquorisrunoff,hotwaterisrunintowashthedyedmaterial,
andthepumpiskeptrunningforsometimetoensurethoroughrinsingthenthe
waterisrunoff,andbykeepingthepumprunningandairgoingthroughacertain
amountofdryingcanbeeffected.Thismachineworksverywell,and,withalittle
experience,constantresultscanbeobtained.Theslubbingorslivermaybescoured,
bleached,rinsed,dyed,washed,soaped,orotherwisetreatedwithoutremovingit
fromthemachine,whichisamostdecidedadvantage.
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FIG.11.Holliday'sYarndyeingMachine.
Holliday'sYarndyeingMachine.InFig.11isgivenanillustrationofa
machinefordyeingyarninthehankformmadebyMessrs.ReadHolliday&Sons,
ofHuddersfield.Theillustrationgivesaverygoodideaofthemachine.Itconsists
ofawoodendyevatwhichcanbeheatedbysteampipesintheusualway.
Extendingoverthevatareanumberofreelsorbobbinsthesearebestmadeof
woodorenamelledironthesereelsareinconnectionwithsuitablegearingsothat
theycanberevolved.Thereisalsoanarrangementbymeansofwhichthereelscan
beliftedbodilyinandoutofthedyevatforthepurposeoftakingonandoff,
"doffing,"thehanksofyarnforthereels.Areelwillholdabouttwopoundsof
yarn.Theworkingofthemachineissimple.Thevatisfilledwiththerequisitedye
liquor.Thereels,whichareliftedoutofthevat,arethenchargedwiththeyarn,
whichhasbeenpreviouslywettedout.Theyarethensetinrevolutionanddropped
intothedyevatandkeptthereuntilitisseenthattheyarnhasacquiredthedesired
shade.Thereelsareliftedoutandthehanksremoved,whenthemachineisready
foranotherlotofyarn.
[Pg61]
Thereareseveralmakesofhankdyeingmachinesofthistype,andasarulethey
workverywell.Theonlysourceoftroubleisaslighttendencyfortheyarnonone
reelifhunglooselyofbecomingentangledwiththeyarnononeoftheotherreels.
Thisistosomeextentobviatedbyhanginginthebottomofthehankarollerwhich
actsasaweightandkeepstheyarnstretchedandsopreventsitflyingabout.
Tosomemakesofthesemachinesahankwringerisattached.
KlauderWeldonHankdyeingMachine.ThisisillustratedinFig.12,which
showsthelatestform.Thismachineconsistsofahalfcylindricaldyevatbuiltof
wood.Onacentralaxisisbuilttwodiscsorrodcarrierswhichcanrevolveinthe
dyevat,therevolutionbeinggivenbysuitablegearing,whichisshownattheside
ofthemachine.Ontheouteredgeofthediscsareclipsforcarryingrods,onwhich
oneendofthehanksofyarnishung,whiletheother
[Pg62]
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FIG.12.KlauderWeldonDyeingMachine.
endisplacedonasimilarrodcarriedneartheaxle.Therevolutionofthediscs
carriestheyarnthroughthedyeliquorcontainedinthelowersemicylindricalpart
ofthemachinepreviouslyalludedto.Atacertainpoint,everyrevolutionofthe
discs,therodscarryingtheyarnsareturnedalittlethiscausestheyarntomoveon
therods,andthismotionhelpstobringaboutgreaterevennessofdyeing.Themost
modernformofthismachineisprovidedwithanarrangementbymeansofwhich
thewholebatchofyarncanbeliftedoutofthedyeliquor.Arrangementsaremade
bywhichfromtimetotimefreshquantitiesofdyecanbeaddedifrequiredtobring
upthedyedyarntoanydesiredshade.Thismachineworkswellandgivesgood
results.Beyondthenecessarylabourincharginganddischarging,andalittle
attentionfromtimetotime,astheoperationproceeds,toseeifthedyeingis
cominguptoshade,themachinerequireslittleattention.
[Pg63]
Manyotherformsofhankdyeingmachineshavebeendevised:thereisCorron's,in
whichanordinaryrectangulardyevatisused.Roundthisisaframeworkwhich
carriesaliftingandfallingarrangementthattravelstoandfroalongthevat.The
hanksofyarnarehungonrodsofaspecialconstructiondesignedtoopenthemout
inamannerasnearlyapproachinghandworkasispossible.Themachineworksin
thisway:theliftingarrangementisatoneendofthevat,thehanksarehungonthe
rodsandplacedinthevat.Thenthelifterissetinmotionandmovesalongthevat
asitdoessoitliftsupeachrodfullofyarn,turnsitover,openingouttheyarninso
doing,thenitdropsitagaininthevat.Whenithastravelledtotheendofthevatit
returns,pickinguptherodsofyarninsodoing,andthismotioniskeptupuntilthe
dyeingiscompleted.Thismachineisveryingenious.
Atypeofmachinewhichhasbeenmadebyseveralmakersconsistsofanordinary
rectangulardyevatsurroundedwithaframeworkcarryinganumberofsetsof
endlesschains,thelinksofwhichcarryfingers.Thehanksofyarnarehungonrods
atoneendofwhichisatoothwheelthatwheninpositionfitsintoarackonthe
sideofthevat.Theactionofthemachineisthis:thehanksarehungontherodsand
placedattheentranceendofthevat,bythemovingofthechainsitiscarriedalong
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thevatandatthesametimerevolves,thusturningovertheyarnwhichhangsinthe
dyeliquorwhenitreachestheoppositeendofthevat,therodfullofyarnislifted
out,carriedupwardsandthentowardstheotherendofthevatwhenitisagain
droppedintothedyevattogothroughthesamecycleofmovementswhichis
continueduntiltheyarnisproperlydyed.
[Pg64]
COPDYEING.
Inweavingfancycolouredfabricstheordinarymodeistodyetheyarninthehank
form,thenthosewhichhavetobeusedfortheweftarewoundintothecopformfor
placingintheshuttles.Thecopformisthatinwhichtheyarnleavesthespinning
frame,andnecessarilyapartfromthedyeingthereislabourinvolvedinreelingit
intohanksandwindingitbackagainintothecopform,notonlysobutthereis
necessarilysomewastemadeintheseoperations.Manyattemptshavebeenmade,
withmoreorlesssuccess,todyetheyarnwhileinthecopformandsosavethe
costofthehankingandcoppingabovereferredtoaswellasthewastewhich
occurs.Copscannotbesatisfactorilydyedbysimpleimmersioninaboilingdye
bath,theoutsidebecomesdyedbutthecentralportionsasoftenasnotremainquite
white,andthereisadistinctgradingofcolourorshadethroughoutthecop,the
outerportionsbeingdeeplydyedwhilethemiddleportionwillonlyhaveamedium
shadeandthecentralportionseithernotbeingdyedatalloronlyfaintlytinted,
muchdependingonthefirmnesswithwhichthecophasbeenwound.Asoft,
looselywoundcopismuchmorethoroughlydyedthanahard,tightlywoundcop.
Thisunevendyeingofthecopsisnotsatisfactory,andmustbeavoidedifcop
dyeingistobeasuccess.Manydyershaveturnedtheirattentiontothisquestionof
dyeingyarninthecopform,andmanymachineshavebeendevisedforthe
purposesomeofthesehavenotbeenasuccess,butafewhavebeenfoundtoyield
satisfactoryresultsandprovedinpracticeverysuccessful.
Inallmachinesfordyeingcopsoneprinciplehasbeenadoptedthatofdrawingor
forcingthedyeliquorthroughthecop.
[Pg65]
FIG.13.GraemigerCopdyeingMachine.
Graemiger'sCopdyeingMachine.ThisisshowninsectioninFigs.13and14.
Althoughsimpleinitsworkitissomewhatcomplexinitsconstructionanddifficult
todescribe.Themachineconsistsofadyevattoholdtherequisitedyeliquors.In
theupperportionsofthisisanironcastingformedwithfourchambers,thetwo
loweronesofwhichareimmersedinthedyeliquorwhiletheupperchambersare
aboveit.Thesidesofthiscastingareformedofmetalplateswhichfittightly
againstthecastingandformasnearlyairandwatertightjointswithitasitis
possibletomake.Thesemetalplatesareonaspindleandcanberotated.Theyare
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perforatedandmadetocarryspindles,onwhichareplacedthecopstobedyed.The
twolowerchambersareinconnectionwithapumpwhichdrawstheairfromthem
andsocreatesavacuuminsidethechambers.Tofillthis,liquorfromthedyevat
passesthroughthecopsandintothechambers,andisinturndrawnthroughthe
[Pg66]
pumpandreturnedtothedyevat.Inthiswaythereisacontinualcirculationof
dyeliquorsfromthevatthroughthecops,chambersandpumpbacktothevat
again.
FIG.14.GraemigerCopdyeingMachine.
Theleftupperchamberispracticallyablankchamber.Thoseportionsofthecop
carriersincontactwithitarefilledwithcops,whichareplacedonperforated
spindlesthediscsaregivenaquarterrevolutionwhichbringsthecopsintothe
dyeliquorandinconnectionwiththeleftlowerchamberandaredyed.Atthesame
timethesectionofthecopcarriersnowincontactwiththelefttopchamberisfilled
withanewlotofcops,anotherquarterofarevolutionisgiventothecopcarriers,
whichimmersethenewlotofcopsinthedyeliquor.Thethirdquarterofthecop
platesisfilledwithcops.Athirdmovementofthecopplatesnowtakesplacethis
bringsthefirstlotofcopsoutofthedyeliquorandincontactwiththerightupper
chamber,wherethesurplusliquorisdrawnoutofthemandreturnedtothedyevat.
Anotherrevolutionbringsthecopsbacktotheirfirstposition,theyarenow
[Pg67]
removedandanewlotsubstituted.Theseproceedingsgooncontinuously.
Althoughnotquitefreefromdefectsthemachinegivesverygoodresults,thecops
beingveryuniformlydyedthrough.
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FIG.15.Beaumont'sCopdyeingMachine.
Beaumont'sCopdyeingMachine.ThisisillustratedinFig.15.Itconsistsofa
copperhemisphericaldyevessel,whichisprovidedwithatightlyfittinglid,
althoughthisisnotneededinallcases.Thebottomofthevesselisin
communicationwiththesuctionendofacentrifugalpump,whilethedeliveryend
ofthepumpisattachedtotheupperendofthedyevessel,theactionofthepump
beingtosecureaconstantcirculationofdyeliquorfromthebottomtothetopof
thedyevessel.Arrangementsareprovidedbyapeculiarandingeniouscontrivance
[Pg68]
fittedinonesideofthedyekettleforintroducingsteamtoheatthedyeliquorto
anyrequireddegree.Asinmostformsofcopdyeingmachines,thecopsareplaced
onperforatedmetalspindles.Thecopsandspindlesareinsertedinholesina
perforatedmetalplate,andoverthemisplacedathinmetalplate,technicallycalled
theantifloater,whoseobjectistopreventthecopsfrombecomingdetachedfrom
theplate.Thisplate,fullofcops,isnowplacedinthedyevesselandrestsupona
flangewhichisprovidedforthatpurpose.Whenthecopplateisinpositionthe
dyevesselisdividedintotwochambersalowerchamberandanupperone,inthe
latterbeingthecops.
Thepumpdrawsliquorfromthechamberunderthecopplateandsocreatesa
vacuum,whichduringtheworkingofthemachinesrangesfrom10to20inchesin
degree.Tosupplythisvacuum,dyeliquorisdrawnfromtheupperchamber
throughthecops.Thepumpreturnstheliquortothedyevessel.Averyrapid
circulationofdyeliquortakesplace,from25to50gallonsperminutepassing
throughthecopsandpump.Fromfivetotenminutesissufficienttodyethecops.
Themachineissimpleinitsconstructionandgivesgoodresults,thecopsbeing
completelydyedthrough.Oneimportantconsiderationincopdyeingistobeable
todyesuccessivebatchesofcopstoexactlythesameshade,andthisisquite
possiblewiththismachine.
Young&Crippin'sCopdyeingMachine.Sofarassimplicityofconstructionis
concernedthisliesbetweenthetwoprecedingmachines.Itconsistsoffourparts
withsomeaccessorymechanism.Thereisfirstadyeliquorstoragetankatthebase
oftheapparatusinwhichtheliquoriskeptstoredandboiling(ifnecessary)ready
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foruse,abovethisandatthefrontendisthedyechamber,thiscommunicatesatits
lowerendbyapipewiththedyeliquorinthedyevat.Thenthereisalargevacuum
chamber,inwhichbymeansofaninjectoravacuumcanbeformed,thisdirectly
[Pg69]
communicateswithaliquorreceivingchamberwhichagaininturnisin
communicationwiththeupperpartofthedyechamber.Thecopsareplacedon
perforatedspindlesasusual,andtheseonaperforatedplateandarekeptinplaceby
aplatewhichisscreweddownonthem.Thechargedcopplateisplacedinthedye
chamberonwhichacoverisplacedandscreweddown.Bymeansofaleverthe
injectorissetatwork,avacuumcreatedinthevacuumandreceivingchambers,the
consequencebeingthatdyeliquorisdrawnfromthevatthroughthecopsinthe
dyechamberintothereceivingchamber.Whenacertainquantityofliquorhas
passedthrough,byamovementofalever,thevacuumisdestroyed,andthedye
liquorrunsbackintothedyevattheseoperationsarerepeateduntilfrompast
experienceoftheworkingofthemachineitisthoughtsufficienthaspassedthrough
todyethecops,whenthedyechamberisopenedandthecopstakenout.This
machineworksverywell.
Mommer'sCopdyeingMachine.Thisisinuseinseveralcontinentaldye
works.Thecentralportionofthismachineisarectangulardyechamber,whichcan
behermeticallyclosedbyhingeddoors,thecopsareplacedsidebysideontrays
providedwithperforatedbottoms,thetraysbeingplacedoneonthetopoftheother
inthedyechamber.Fromthetopofthedyechamberpassesapipetoacentrifugal
pump,andasimilarpipepassesfromthebottomofthechambertothepump.A
separatevatcontainsthedyeliquorwhichisused.Thepumpforcesthedyeliquor
throughthecopswhichtakeupthedye.Arrangementsareprovidedbywhichthe
directionoftheflowofthedyeliquorcanbechanged.Thismachinegivesfairly
goodresults,notperhapsequaltothosewiththemachinespreviouslydescribed.
WarpdyeingMachines.Althoughmanywarps,especiallyforfancyfabrics,are
preparedfromyarnsdyedinthehankorcopform,yetitisfoundadvantageous
whenawarpisofonecolour,aselfcolourasitiscalled,toformthewarpfrom
greyorwhiteyarnsandtodyeitafterwarping.Ifthewarpweresowoundastobe
abletogointoaObermaierdyeingmachine,itwouldbepossibletodyeitinthat
machine,butgenerallywarpsaredyedintheopenformandarepassedthrougha
dyeingvat,commonlycalledawarpvatwhichisconstructedasshowninFig.16.
Thesewarpdyeingmachinesgenerallyconsistofalongrectangularwoodendye
vat,dividedbytwopartitionsintothreecompartments,eachprovidedwithsteam
pipestoheatupitscontentsbetweenthefirstandsecondandbetweenthesecond
andthirdcompartmentsisfittedapairofsqueezingrollers,whilethethird
compartmentisfittedwithaheavierpairofsqueezingrollers.Motionisgivento
theserollersbysuitablegearing,andtheyservetodrawthewarpthroughthe
machine.Guiderollersarefittedinthecompartment,andthewarpbeingtaken
roundthese,itpassesseveraltimesupanddownandthroughthedyeliquors
containedinthecompartments.Thesewarpdyeingmachinesmaybemadeof
sufficientwidthtotakeone,two,threeormorewarpsatonetimeasdesired.
[Pg70]
FIG.16.WarpdyeingMachine.
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Thethreecompartmentsofthemachinemaycontaindifferentliquidsorallthe
sameliquidaccordingasthenatureoftheshadetobedyeddemands.Thepassage
isdoneslowlysoastogivethewarptimetoabsorbtheliquorsandtakeupthedye. [Pg71]
Whenallthelengthofwarphasbeensentthrough,itissaidtohavebeendyed"one
end".Sometimesthiswillbeenough,butoftenitisnot,andsothewarpissent
throughagain,givenanotherend,andstillagainifthefullshadehasnotbeen
attained.
Afterbeingdyedinthismachinethewarpissentthroughanotheronecontaining
variouswashliquorstofinishtheprocess.
FIG.17.WarpdyeingMachine.
Fig.17showsawarpdyeingmachinesimilarto,butalittlemoreelaboratein
constructionthan,thevatsjustdescribed.
PiecedyeingMachines.Whereveritispossibleitisfarmorepreferabletodye
textilefabricsintheformofwovenpiecesratherthanintheyarnfromwhichthey
arewoven.Duringtheprocessofweavingitisquiteimpossibletoavoidthe
materialgettingdirtyandsomewhatgreasy,andtheoperationsofscouring
necessarytoremovethisdirtandgreasehasanimpairingactiononthecolourif
dyedyarnshavebeenusedinweavingit.Thisisavoidedwhenthepiecesare
wovenfirstanddyedafterwards,andthiscanalwaysbedonewhentheclothsare
dyedinonecolouronly.Ofcoursewhenthegoodsarefancygoodscontaining
severalcolourstheyhavetobewovenfromdyedyarns.
[Pg72]
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FIG.18.Dyejiggers.
ThemostcommonformofmachineinwhichpiecesaredyedisTheJigger,
commonlycalledthejig.ThisisshowninFigs.18and19.Itconsistsofadye
vesselmadesufficientlylongtotakethepiecefullwidthwideatthetopand
narrowatthebottom.Atthetopateachsideisplacedalargewindingrolleron
whichtheclothiswound.Atthebottomofthejigisplacedaguiderollerround
whichpassesthecloth.Insomemakesofjigs(Fig.19)therearetwoguiderollers
atthebottomandoneatthetop,asshownintheillustration,sothattheclothpasses
severaltimesthroughthedyeliquor.Inworking,theclothisfirstwoundononeof
therollers,thenthreadedthroughtheguiderollersandattachedtotheother
windingroller.Whenthisisdonedyeliquorisrunintothejig,thegearingsetin
[Pg73]
motion,and
FIG.19.Dyejigger.
theclothwoundfromthefullontotheemptyroller.Withtheobjectofkeepingthe
piecetight,aheavypressrollerisarrangedtobearontheclothonthefullroller.
Whenalltheclothhaspassedfromonerollertotheotheritissaidtohavebeen
given"oneend".Thedirectionofmotionisnowchanged,andtheclothsentinthe
oppositedirectionthroughthejig,andthepiecehasnowreceivedanother"end".
Thisalternationfromonerollertotheotheriscontinuedaslongasisdeemed
necessary,muchdependingonthedepthofcolourwhichisbeingdyedsomepale
shadesmayonlytaketwoorthreeends,deepershadesmaytakemore.When
dyeingwoolwithacidcolourswhichareallabsorbedfromthedyeliquor,orthe
bathisexhausted,itisagoodplantorunthepiecesseveralmoreendssoasto
ensurethoroughfixationofthedyeonthecloth.
[Pg74]
Itisnotadvisableinworkingthesejigstoaddthewholeofthedyetotheliquorat
thecommencement,butonlyapartofitthenwhenoneendisgiven,another
portionofthedyemaybeaddedsuchportionsbeingalwaysintheformof
solution.Addingdyesinpowderforminevitablyleadstotheproductionofcolour
specksonthefinishedgoods.Thereasonforthusaddingthedyestuffinportionsis
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thatwithsomedyestheaffinityforthefibreissogreatthatifallwereaddedat
onceitwouldallbeabsorbedbeforetheclothhadbeengivenoneendand,further,
theclothwouldbeverydeepatthefrontend,whileitwouldshadeofftonocolour
attheotherend.Byaddingthedyeinportionsthisdifficultyisovercomeandmore
levelshadesareobtaineditismetwithinallcasesofjiggerdyeing,butitismost
commonindyeingcottonorwoolwithbasicdyeslikemagenta,auramine,methyl
violetorbrilliantgreen,andindyeingwoolwithaciddyeslikeacidgreen,formyl
violets,azoscarlet,oracidyellow.
Someattemptshavebeenmadetomakejiggersautomaticintheirreversingaction,
buttheyhavenotbeensuccessfulowingtothegreatlyvaryingconditionsoflength
ofpieces,theirthickness,etc.,whichhavetobedyed,anditisnexttoimpossibleto
makeallallowancesforsuchvaryingconditions.
TheJigWinceorWinceDyeBeck.Thisdyeingmachineisverylargelyused,
particularlyinthedyeingofwoollencloths.Itismadebymanymakers,andvaries
somewhatinformaccordingly.Figs.20,21and22,showthreeforms
[Pg75]
FIG.20JigWince.
bydifferentmakers.Inanymakethejigwince,orwincedyebeck,consistsofa
largerectangular,or,insomecases,hemicylindricaldyevat.Probablythebest
shapewouldbetohaveavatwithonestraightsideatthefront,andonecurvedside
attheback.Insomeasmallguiderollerisfittedatthebottom,underwhichthe
piecestobedyedpass.Steampipesareprovidedforheatingthedyeliquors.The
becksshouldbefittedwithafalsebottommadeofwood,perforatedwithholes,or
ofwoodenlatticework,andbelow
[Pg76]
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FIG.21.ClothdyeingMachine.
whichthesteampipesareplacedtheobjectbeingtopreventthepiecesfrom
comingincontactwiththesteampipe,andsopreventingtheproductionofstains.
Abovethedyevat,andtowardstheback,isthewince,arevolvingskeletonwheel,
whichdrawsthepiecesoutofthedyevatatthefront,anddeliversthemintoit
againattheback.Theconstructionofthiswinceiswellshowninthedrawings.The
wincewilltakethepiecesfullbreadth,butoftentheyaresomewhatfolded,andso
severalpieces,four,fiveorsixstringsastheyarecalled,canbedealtwithatone
time.Inthiscaseaguiderailisprovidedinthefrontpartofthemachine.Inthisrail
arepegswhichservetokeepthepiecesofclothseparate,andsoprevent
entanglements.Thepiecesarestitchedendtoendsoastoformanendlessband.
[Pg77]
Whenrunningthroughthevattheyfalldowninfoldsatthebackpartofthebeck,
andaredrawnoutofthebottomandupinthefront.Eachpartthusremainsfor
sometimeinthedyeliquor,duringwhichitnecessarilytakesupthedye.
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FIG.22.DyeBeck.
Inthejigandwincedyeingmachinesthepiecesnecessarilyareforapartofthe
time,longerinthecaseofthejiggerthaninthatofthewince,outofthedyeliquor
[Pg78]
andexposedtotheair.Inthecaseofsomedyes,indigoespecially,thisisnot
desirable,andyetitisadvisabletoruntheclothopenforsometimeintheliquor,so
astogetitthoroughlyimpregnatedwiththedyeliquor,ortobecomedyed.This
maybedoneonsuchamachine,asisshowninFig.24,page79,buthavingallthe
guiderollersbelowtheliquor,sothatatnotimeisthepieceoutoftheliquor,
except,ofcourse,whenenteringandleaving.
FIG.23.Holliday'sMachineforHawkingCloth.
Thesocalledhawkingmachineshavealsothisobjectinview,andFig.23isan
illustrationofHolliday'shawkingmachine,madebyMessrs.ReadHolliday&
Sons,ofHuddersfield.Thereisthedyevatasusualinthisissuspendedthe
drawingmechanism,whoseconstructioniswellshowninthedrawing.Thisisa
pairofrollersdrivenbysuitablegearing,betweenwhichtheclothpasses,andby
whichitisdrawnthroughthemachine.Asmallrollerensurestheclothproperly
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leavingthelargerollersthenthereisalatticeworkarrangementoverwhichthe
piecesaredrawn.Inactualworkthewholeofthisarrangementisbelowthesurface
ofthedyeliquorinthevat.Thepiecetobedyedisthreadedthroughthemachine,
theendsstitchedtogether.Thenthearrangementisloweredintothedyevatandset
intomotion,wherebytheclothisdrawncontinuouslyintheopenformthroughthe
dyeliquor,thisbeingdoneaslongasexperienceshowstobenecessary.This
hawkingmachinewillbefoundusefulindyeingindigooncottonorwool,orin
dyeingcottonclothswithsuchdyesasImmedialblacks,Crossdyeblacks,
Amidazolblacks,Vidalblacks,whereitisnecessarytokeepthegoodsbelowthe
surfaceofthedyeliquorduringtheoperation.
[Pg79]
FIG.24.ContinuousDyeingMachine.
Fig.24showsaformofclothdyeingmachinemuchusedinthecottontrade.It
consistsofanumberofcompartmentsfittedwithguiderollersattopandbottom,
androundwhichtheclothisthreaded,sothatitpassesupanddowninthedye
liquorseveraltimes.Betweeneachtwocompartmentsisapairofsqueezingrollers
topressoutallsurplusliquors.Allthecompartmentsmaybefilledwiththesame
dyeliquor,orwithdifferentdyeliquorsanddevelopingliquors,asmaybemost
convenientandrequiredfortheworkinhand.Suchamachineisusedindyeing
logwoodblack,anilineblack,andmanyofthedirectcolours,etc.
[Pg80]
Fromthedirectcoloursalargenumberoflightshadesaredyedontocottoncloth
bytheprocessknownaspaddingthisconsistsinpassingthecloththroughaliquor
containingthedyestuff,usuallyalittlephosphateofsodaisadded,thenbetween
squeezingrollers,andfinallydryingthecloth.Forthisprocessthereisusedwhatis
calledapaddingmachine.ThisisshowninFigs.25and26.
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FIG.25.PaddingMachine.
Itconsistsessentiallyofatrough,whichcontainstwoormoreguiderollers,andin
thisisplacedthepaddingliquor.Abovethetroughisfittedsqueezingrollers,
sometimestwoasinFig.25,orthreeasinFig.26.Besidesthese,there
[Pg81]
FIG.26.PaddingMachine.
arewindingandbeamingandotherguiderollers.Fig.25showsthesimplest
paddingmachine,wheretheclothpassesoncethroughtheliquorandthroughthe
squeezingrollers.InFig.26theclothpassesseveraltimesthroughtheliquorand
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twicethroughthesqueezingrollers,thusensuringamoreperfectimpregnationof
theclothwiththedyeliquor,andthereforeamoreuniformdyeingofthecloth.
[Pg82]
CHAPTERIV.
THEPRINCIPLESANDPRACTICEOFCOTTONDYEING.
Studentsofcottondyeingshouldhaveagoodknowledgeoftheprinciplesthat
underlietheprocessesofdyeingcottonfabrics.Itisonlybyrecognisingthese
principlesandthenendeavouringtoapplythemtoeachindividualcaseofdyeing,
thatthedyerorstudentwillobtainathoroughgraspofhissubject.Itistheaimof
theauthortolaydowntheseprinciplesinaclearandintelligibleform.Cottonis
dyedinitslooserawcondition,asyarnintheformofhanks,yarnintheformof
cops,andinthewovenpiecesofeverykind.Formerlytheideawasprevalent
amongcottondyersthattheprocesswhichsucceedswithpiecegoodswouldnot
answerwithyarns.Itisnowrecognisedhoweverthatthisisnotso,thataprocess
whichwilldyecottonyarnwillalsodyecottonpiecegoodsorloosecotton.The
differenceswhichdoexistinthepracticalworkingoftheprocessesentirelyarise
fromthedifferenceintheforminwhichthecottonispresentedtothedyer,forit
mustbeobvioustoanyonethatthemodeofhandlingapieceofcottonclothduring
thetimeitisinthedyebathmustbedifferentfromthatofahankofyarn,aparcel
ofloosecottonoranumberofcops.Thevariousmachinesusedfordyeingallthese
formsandthemannerofworkingthemhavebeenalreadydescribed.
Thedyes,whethernaturalderivedfromthevariousdyewoods,etc.orartificial
preparedfromcoaltarmayaccordingtotheirvariedchemicalcompositionand
constitutionbedividedintoseventeenoreighteendistinctgroups,butitisnot
intendedheretogiveanyaccountofthemthereaderisreferredtootherbooks
suchasTheDictionaryofCoalTarColours,byGeorgeH.HurstTheChemistryof
CoalTarColours,byBenediktandKnechtorTheChemistryofOrganic
ColouringMatters,byNietzki,wherethecompositionandpropertiesofthedyes
arefullydescribed.
[Pg83]
Fromthemannerinwhichthevariousdyesareappliedtocotton,linen,wooland
otherfibreswecandividethemintofivegroups,thus:
Group 1. Directdyes.
" 2. Basicdyes.
" 3. Aciddyes.
" 4. Mordantdyes.
" 5. Miscellaneousdyes.
Firstgroup,directdyes,arenowverynumeroustheydyecotton,linenandother
vegetablefibresfromaplainbath,anddonotrequirethosefibrestobepreparedin
anyway.Hencethereasonoftheirbeingnameddirect,orbysomethesubstantive
colours.Theywillalsodyewoolandsilk.
Thesecondgroup,basicdyes,comprisesomeoftheoldestofthecoaltardyes
theydyewoolandsilkdirectfromplainbaths,butrequirecotton,linenandother
vegetablefibrestobepreviouslypreparedinbathsoftannicacid,sumachorother
tanningmaterial.
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Thethirdgroup,aciddyes,areverynumerous,andfromboththeirchemical
compositionandmodeofdyeingcanbedividedintoseveralsubgroups.Their
principalfeatureisthattheydyewoolandsilkfrombathscontainingGlauber'ssalt
andsomeacid,hencetheirnameof"aciddyes".Theydonotdyecottonorlinen
well,somenotatall,othersareabsorbedtoaslightextentbythecotton,butonly
[Pg84]
paletintsareproduced,whileothersmaybeusedalongwithmetallicmordantsto
dyebrightbutpaleandfugitiveshades.TheaciddyescomprisesuchasAcidgreen,
Formylviolet,Acidmagenta,Azoscarlet,Orange.ThiocarmineR.,Patentblues,
Woolgreens,indigoextract,Eosines,etc.
Thefourthgroup,mordantdyes,includesthealizarineseriesofcoaltarcolours,
logwood,Brazilwoodandmostnaturalcolours,andsomeothers.Theprincipal
featureofthesedyesisthattheyrequirethecottontobepreparedwithsome
metallicoxide,likethoseofchrome,aluminaandiron,beforedyeing,andthe
colourwhichisgotdependspartlyupontheparticulardyestuffusedandpartly
upontheoxidewithwhichthecottonhasbeenprepared.
Thefifthgroupincludesafewdyeslikeindigo,whicharedyedontocottonby
variousandspecialprocesses.
Theprocessesofcottondyeingemployedtodaymaybecomprisedundereight
heads,namely:
(1)Directdyeing.(2)Directdyeingfollowedbyfixationwithmetallicsalts.(3)
Directdyeingfollowedbyfixationwithdevelopers.(4)Directdyeingfollowedby
fixationwithcouplers.(5)Dyeingontannicmordant.(6)Dyeingonmetallic
mordant.(7)Developingthecolourdirectonfibre.(8)Dyeingbyimpregnatingthe
cottonwiththedyestuff,followedbyoxidationorsteaming.
Itisofcoursenoteasytoelaborateasimpleschemeofgroupingtheprocessesthat
shalldefinitelyincludeallprocesses,buttheabovegroupingwillbefoundas
successfulasany,andeachwillbeconsideredasfullyasisdeemednecessary.
[Pg85]
(1)DIRECTDYEING.
Nothinginthehistoryofcottondyeingcausedsucharevolutioninthemethodsof
workingasdidtheintroductionsomefifteenyearsagooftheforerunners(Congo
red,Benzopurpurine,Chrysamine,Azoblue)ofthenownumerousgroupofdirect
dyes,followedastheywerebytheBenzo,Congo,Diamine,Titan,Chicagoand
Zambesimembersofthegroup.Priortotheirintroductioncottondyeingwas
alwaysmoreorlesscomplicatedandmordantingmethodshadtobeemployed.
Withtheintroductionofthedirectdyescottondyeinghasbecomeevenmore
simplethanwoolorsilkdyeing,andnowallthatisnecessaryistoprepareadye
liquorcontainingthenecessaryamountofdyestuffandGlauber'ssalt,orcommon
saltorsoda,orsomesimilarbody,oracombinationthereof.Themethodof
workingistoplacethecottoninalukewarmoreveninahotbath,raisetotheboil,
allowthegoodstoremainintheboilingbathforhalfanhourtoanhour,thentake
themout,wring,washanddry.Thismethodissimpleandwillanswerforallthe
dyesofthisgroup.Therearesomethatdonotrequiretheworkingtobedone
boilingitissimplyneedfultoenterthecottonintoaboilingbathandworkwithout
steamuntilthebathhascooleddown.Furiousboilingisnotneededagentle
simmergivesthebestresults.Unevendyeingseemstobeanimpossibilityinthis
groupofdyes,unlessthecottonisdirtynomatterhowtheoperationsarecarried
on,leveldyeingistherulenottheexception.Anenormousvarietyofshadesand
tintscanbeobtainedfromthesedyes,andtheycanbecombinedtogetherinevery
conceivablemannerandproportions.
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Nosatisfactoryexplanationhasyetbeengivenastowhatfeatureinthechemical
compositionofthesedyestuffsgivethemsuchanaffinityforthecottonfibreasto
enablethemtodyeinsosimpleamannersuchfastshadesastheydoitisafact
thereissuchanaffinityandtherethemattermustrest.
[Pg86]
Ithasbeenfoundinpracticethattheefficiencyofthedyeingoperationdepends,
primarilyofcourse,ontheparticulardyestuffused,butalsouponotherfactors,
thatacertainassistantbeused.Somedyesworkonthecottonbetterfromabath
containingGlauber'ssalt,whilewithotherscommonsaltworksbest,whilealittle
sodaalongwiththesaltfacilitatesthedyeinginsomecases.Itispractically
impossibletospecifyherethebestassistantforallthedirectcolours,onaccountof
thegreatnumberofsuchdyeswhichareknown,butinthepracticalrecipesgiven
belowmuchusefuladvicewillbefound.Thenthequantityofsuchassistantsused
isofmuchimportancethereisoneproportionatwhichthebestresultsareobtained
foreachdye.Thedyershouldfindoutforhimselfbyexperimentandtheuseofthe
dyesheemploysinhisworkwhatassistantandhowmuchisbest,andmakehis
bathsuptothatstrength.Withsomedyes10percent.oftheassistantwillbefound
sufficient,whilewithothers,25to30percent.willnotbetoomuch.The
percentagereferstotheweightofthecottonthatistaken.
Onefunctionoftheassistantsmustbepointedouthere:itisthatinsomecasesthey
especiallythealkalineones,soda,potash,borax,phosphateofsodahelpthe
dyeingbypromotingthesolubilityofthedyestuffinthebath,therebyretardingthe
exhaustionofthebathandensuringtheproductionoflevelshades.
Thefollowingformulasshowtheapplicationoftheforegoingprinciplestothe
dyeingofnumerousshadesontocottonandalsothedyeswhichareapplicable,
someofthecombinationswhicharepossiblewiththesedirectdyes,andgivesome
ideaofthetintsandshadesofthecoloursthatcanbegotbytheirmeans.Thebest
assistantstousearealsoindicatedintheformul.
[Pg87]
Alltheformulheregivenandallthatwillbegiveninfuturechaptersareintended
for100lb.weightofcottonfabricsinanycondition,whetherofloosecotton,yarn
incops,hanksorwrapsandwovenfabricsofeverykind.
BrightRed.Dyewith3lb.Benzopurpurine4B,3lb.sodaand15lb.Glauber's
salt.Thisdyemayalsobeusedwith3lb.soapand10lb.sodainthebathwith
equallygoodresults.
PaleSalmon.Prepareadyebathwith3lb.salt,5lb.phosphateofsoda,1lb.
soap,oz.BenzoorangeR.Forapaleshadelikethisitisnotnecessarytoheatto
theboil,atemperatureof170to180F.issufficient.
DarkPlum.Prepareadyebathwith20lb.ofGlauber'ssalt,2lb.soap,1lb.
DiamineblackRO.and2lb.DiamineredN.Enterat180F.,workforafew
minutes,thenraisetoboilanddyetoshadelift,washanddry.
TurkeyRed.Prepareadyebathwith1lb.Benzopurpurine4B,1lb.Brilliant
purpurine,2lb.soap,10lb.borax.Enterthecottonattheboilandworkforone
hourlift,washanddry.
LilacRed.Preparethedyebathwith2lb.soap,5lb.soda,3lb.RoseazurineG.
Workattheboilforonehour.
Pink.Prepareabathcontaining10lb.soda,1oz.RoseazurineB.Enterataboil
andworkforonehour,boilingtoshadelift,washanddry.
Bordeaux.Prepareadyebathwith15lb.Glauber'ssalt,5lb.sodacrystals,3lb.
52/253
12/9/2014
DiaminefastredF,1lb.DiaminevioletN,1lb.RoseazurineG.Entercold,then
raisetotheboil,andworkforoneandahalfhourslift,washanddry.
RosePink.Thedyebathismadewith2lb.ErikaB,20lb.Glauber'ssaltand3lb.
soap,workingatneartheboiltoshade.
[Pg88]
BrilliantRed.Makethedyebathwith24lb.BrilliantpurpurineRand25lb.
Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboilforonehour.
DeepPink.Makethedyebathwithlb.DiamineroseBD,lb.soda,1lb.
soapand5lb.Glauber'ssalt,workingat150F.forhalfanhour.
DarkRed.Useinthedyebath3lb.Diaminered5B,2lb.sodaand20lb.
Pink.Preparethedyebathwith4oz.DiamineroseBD,1lb.Turkeyredoil,40
lb.Glauber'ssalt.Dyeattheboilforonehour.
Scarlet.Preparethedyebathwith4lb.Diaminescarlet3B,1lb.Turkeyredoil,
20lb.Glauber'ssalt.Dyeattheboilforonehour.
Scarlet.Preparethedyebathwith3lb.TitanscarletC,lb.Titanorange,50lb.
salt.Workattheboilforthirtyminutes,thenlift,washanddry.Thedyebathisnot
exhaustedandmaybeusedforfurtherlots.
CrimsonRed.Preparethedyebathwith5lb.TitanscarletDand50lb.salt.
Workattheboilforfiftyminutes,thenlift,washanddry.Thebathisnot
exhausted,thecottontakinguponlyabout3lb.ofthedyestuffitmaythereforebe
keptforfurtheruse,whenforeachsucceedinglot3to3lb.ofcolourand25lb.of
saltonlyneedbeadded.
Scarlet.Preparethedyebathwith5lb.Rosophenine5B,dissolvedin50gallons
hotwater,2gallonscausticsodalye(60Tw.).Whenthoroughlydissolvedadd150
lb.salt.Makeupthebathto100gallons.Entertheyarnandworkforaquarterto
halfanhouratabout180Fsqueezeoffandwashthoroughlyincoldwateruntil
thewaterrunsoffclean.
RoseRed.Use1lb.Diaminered10B,3lb.soda,and20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
[Pg89]
DeepCrimson.Use3lb.Diaminered10B,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
Claret.Use3lb.DiamineBordeauxB,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
Pink.Thedyebathismadewith5oz.Dianilred4B,5lb.saltand3lb.soda.
Scarlet.Useinthedyebath3lb.Dianilred4B,15lb.saltand5lb.soda.Work
attheboilforonehour.
Claret.Dyewith1lb.DianilclaretG,3lb.sodaand20lb.salt.Workatthe
boilforonehour.
Maroon.Dyewith3lb.DianilclaretB,3lb.sodaand20lb.salt.Workattheboil
foronehour.
BrightScarlet.Useinthedyebath2lb.Dianilred4B5oz.DianilorangeG,3
lb.sodaand15lb.salt.
DarkMaroon.Makethedyebathwith1lb.Dianilred4B,2lb.DianilclaretG,
13oz.DianilclaretB,5lb.sodaand20lb.salt.
53/253
12/9/2014
Crimson.Dyewith3lb.Congorubine,5lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
DarkMaroon.Useinthedyebath1lb.Benzopurpurine4B,3lb.Congo
CorinthG,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboiltoshade.
PaleFawnRed.Useinthedyebath1oz.Diaminered5B,1oz.Diamine
catechineG,3lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt.
RoseRed.Preparethedyebathwithlb.DiamineBordeauxB,3oz.Diamine
orangeB,3lb.sodaand20lb.salt.
Crimson.Useinthedyebathlb.DiamineBordeauxB,3oz.Diaminefast
yellowB,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
Salmon.Dyewith1oz.DiaminefastredF,1oz.DiaminefastyellowB,3lb.
sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt.
[Pg90]
TerraGottaRed.Dyewith1lb.DiaminebrownM,lb.DiaminefastredF,3
lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
LilacRed.Dyewith4lb.HeliotropeBB,3lb.sodaand15lb.Glauber'ssalt.
BrightPink.Useinthedyebath2oz.RoseazurineG,1lb.sodaand10lb.
Glauber'ssalt.Nearlyallthedirectredsgivegoodpinktintswhenusedin
proportion,varyingfrom0.1to0.25percent.ofdyestuff.
BrightStraw.Dyeinabathmadeoflb.TitanyellowGG,10lb.salt,forthree
quartersofanhour,thenlift,washanddry.
Yellow.Prepareadyebathwith1lb.TitanyellowY,10lb.salt.Heatto180F.,
enterthegoods,raisetoboil,anddyeforonehourlift,washanddry.
Yellow.Preparethedyebathwithlb.DiaminefastyellowA,1lb.Turkeyred
oil,20lb.Glauber'ssalt.Dyeattheboilforonehour.
SunYellow.Preparethedyebathwith2lb.Sunyellow,30lb.commonsalt.Dye
attheboil.Thebathiskeptforfurtherlots.
Yellow.Preparethedyebathwith1lb.DirectyellowR,20lb.Glauber'ssalt.Dye
Yellow.Preparethedyebathwith2lb.Curcuphenine,20lb.commonsalt.Work
attheboilforonehourlift,rinseanddry.
OldGold.Makethedyebathwith5lb.DiamineyellowNpowder,20lb.
phosphateofsoda,10lb.soap.Workattheboilforonehourfinishintheusual
way.Thebathmaybekeptforotherlotsofgoods.
DarkYellow.Thebathismadefrom2lb.ToluyleneorangeG,10lb.phosphate
ofsoda,and2lb.soap,workingattheboiltoshade.
BrightYellow.Use1lb.Chrysophenine,2lb.phosphateofsodaand10lb.
Glauber'ssalt.
[Pg91]
LemonYellow.Use1oz.ChrysamineG,2lb.phosphateofsodaand10lb.
Glauber'ssalt.
Yellow.Dyewith2lb.Oxyphenineand20lb.salt.
YellowOlive.Useinthedyebath2oz.CottonbrownN,4oz.Diaminebronze
G,4oz.DiaminefastyellowB,3lb.sodaand20lb.salt.
54/253
12/9/2014
GreenYellow.Dyewithlb.DiaminefastyellowB.2oz.DiaminebronzeG,3
GoldYellow.Useinthedyebath3lb.Columbiayellow,3lb.sodaand20lb.
Glauber'ssalt.
Cream.Dyewithoz.ToluyleneorangeG,24grainsBrilliantorangeG,1lb.
Primrose.Dyewith3oz.Dianilyellow3G,2lb.sodaand10lb.salt.
GoldYellow.Dyewith2lb.DianilyellowG,lb.sodaand15lb.salt.
BuffYellow.Dyewith3oz.Dianilyellow2R,lb.sodaand10lb.salt.
Orange.Preparethedyebathwith2lb.ChlorophenineorangeR,20lb.common
salt.Workattheboilforonehourlift,rinseanddry.
RedOrange.Makethedyebathwith3lb.Mikadoorange4Rand25lb.salt.
Workattheboilforonehour.
Orange.Makethedyebathwith3lb.MikadoorangeGand25lb.salt.Workat
theboilforonehour.
PaleOrange.Thedyebathcontains6oz.DiamineOrangeG,1oz.Diamine
fastyellowB,oz.DiaminescarletB,3lb.sodaand15lb.Glauber'ssalt.
OliveYellow.Dyewithlb.DiaminefastyellowB,1oz.OxydiamineblackN,
1oz.DiaminebronzeG,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
DarkOrange.Dyewith3lb.ColumbiaorangeR,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
saltattheboilforonehour.
[Pg92]
BrightOrange.Use3lb.CongoorangeR,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltat
theboilforonehour.
PaleOrange.Dyewith3lb.Dianilorange2R,2lb.sodaand10lb.saltatthe
boilforonehour.
BrilliantOrange.Dyewith4lb.DianilorangeGand20lb.saltforonehour.
DeepOrange.Dyewith2lb.OxydiamineorangeR,lb.sodaand20lb.saltfor
anhour.
PaleOrange.Dyewithlb.DiaminefastyellowB,1lb.DiamineorangeB,3
BrightOrange.Dyewith1lb.BenzoorangeR,1lb.ChrysamineR,10lb.
phosphateofsodaand2lb.soap.
Green.Preparethedyebathwith2lb.BenzogreenG,10lb.Glauber'ssalt.Enter
lukewarm,bringslowlytotheboil,dyeforonehourattheboil.
RussianGreen.Makethedyebathwith16oz.DiamineblackHW,4oz.
DiaminefastyellowA,3lb.soda,15lb.Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboilforone
hour,thenlift,washanddry.
DarkOlive.Prepareadyebathwith3lb.Benzoolive,2lb.DiamineblackB
O,2lb.Diamineyellow,20lb.commonsalt,2lb.soap.Thegoodsareenteredinto
thebathat160F.,thenheatisraisedtotheboil,andthedyeingcontinuedforone
hour,thenlift,washanddry.
55/253
12/9/2014
DarkOlive.Dyeinabathof2lb.TitanyellowY,1lb.DiaminebrownY,1lb.
Diamineblue3B,2lb.soda.Workforonehour,thenlift,washanddry.
Olive.Prepareadyebathwith15lb.phosphateofsoda,3lb.soap,1lb.
DiamineyellowN,4oz.Diamineblue3B,1oz.DiaminebrownV.Dyeatthe
boiltoshadelift,washanddry.
GreenOlive.Preparethedyebathwith1lb.DiamineblackRO,1lb.
Chrysamine,lb.Benzobrown,5lb.soda,5lb.salt,2lb.soap.Thegoodsare
enteredatabout180F.andworkedforashorttime,thenthetemperatureisraised
totheboil,andthegoodsareworkedforonehour,lifted,washedanddried.
[Pg93]
Reseda.Prepareabathwith10lb.Glauber'ssalt,2lb.soap,lb.Diamineblack
RO,2lb.DiamineyellowN.Enterat120F.,heattoboilanddyeforonehourat
thattemperaturelift,washanddry.
SageGreen.Prepareadyebathwith10lb.Glauber'ssalt,lb.DiamineblackR
O,2lb.DiamineyellowN.Enteratabout150F.andthenraisetoboilanddye
boilingforonehour,washanddry.
Drab.Preparethedyebathwith10lb.Crossdyedrab,5lb.sodacrystals.Enter
attheboilandworkatthistemperatureforhalfanhour.Whilstdyeingadd
gradually75lb.salt.Rinsewellanddry.
Olive.Preparethedyebathwith2lb.Dianilolive,5lb.phosphateofsoda,5lb.
commonsalt.Dyeattheboilforonehour.
Olive.Thedyeingisdoneinabathcontaining4oz.DiamineblackHW,1lb.
DiaminebronzeG,5lb.soda,15lb.Glauber'ssalt.Workattheboilforonehour.
GrassGreen.Makethedyebathwith2lb.ChrysamineG,1oz.Benzoazurine
G,3lb.soapand10lb.borax,workingattheboilforonehour.
Green.Makethedyebathwith2lb.TitanyellowY,1lb.Titanblue3Band20
lb.salt.
BrightGrassGreen.Dyeforanhourattheboilwith1lb.SulphonazurineD,2
lb.Thiazoleyellowand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
Green.Useinthedyebath3lb.DiaminegreenB,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
salt,workingattheboiltoshade.
DarkGreen.Dyewith3lb.DiaminedarkgreenN,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
[Pg94]
salt.
Green.Useinthebath3lb.BenzogreenBB,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt
DarkSeaGreen.Dyewith5oz.DiamineblackHW,3oz.DiaminecatechineG,
3oz.DiaminefastyellowB,3lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt.
PaleGreen.Useinthedyebath3lb.DiaminefastyellowB,2oz.Diamineblack
HW,3lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt.
BrightPeaGreen.Useinthedyebath1oz.ThioflavineS,oz.Diaminesky
blueFFand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
DarkGreen.Use1lb.DiaminegreenG,lb.OxydiamineyellowGG,3lb.
sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboilforonehour.
56/253
12/9/2014
DeepGreen.Use1lb.DiaminegreenG,lb.DiamineblackBH,lb.
OxydiamineyellowGG,3lb.soda,and20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
SeaGreen.Use2oz.DianilyellowR,2oz.DianilblueB,1oz.Dianildark
blueR,1lb.soda,and20lb.salt,workingattheboil.
LeafGreen.Dyewith1lb.Dianilyellow3G,1lb.DianilblueB,11oz.Dianil
blue2R,3lb.soda,and20lb.saltattheboilforonehour.
DeepGreen.Dyewith2lb.Dianilyellow3G,2lb.Dianilblue2R,6oz.
DianildarkblueR,3lb.soda,and20lb.saltattheboilforonehour.
Greensarelargelyproducedbymixingyellowsandbluestogetheraswillbeseen
fromtherecipesgivenabovetheparticularshadeofgreenwhichisgotfroma
combinationofblueandgreendependsuponthequalityofthedyestuffsused:
thus,toproducebrightgreensofapuretone,itisessentialthattheyellowused
shallhaveagreenishtonelikeThioflavineS,Thiazoleyellow,orDianilyellow3
G,whilethebluemustalsohaveagreenishtonelikeDiamineskyblue,Benzoblue [Pg95]
3B,etc.ByusingyellowslikeDiaminefastyellowR,anddarkblueslikeBenzo
azurine3R,DiamineblueRW,DianildarkblueR,thegreenwhichisgotisdarker
anddullerintone.TheadditionofsuchadyeasDiamineblackBHthrowsthe
shademoreontoanolive,whileabrowndyestuff,likeDiaminebrownM,oran
orangedye,likeTitanorangeN,throwsthegreenontoasagetone.Examplesof
theseeffectswillbefoundamongtherecipesgivenabove.
Itmaybeaddedherethatbyusingsmallerquantities,butinthesameproportions
asgivenintheaboverecipes,agreatrangeoftintsandshadesofgreencanbedyed
fromverypaletoverydeep.
BrightBlue.Prepareadyebathwithlb.Congoblue2B,5lb.salt,5lb.
phosphateofsoda,2lb.soap.Workattheboilforonehour,thenrinseanddry.
DarkNavy.Prepareadyebathwith1lb.DiamineblackRO,2lb.Diamineblue
3R,8lb.Glauber'ssalt,2lb.soap.Enterthecottonat180F.,andboilforone
hour.
PaleBlue.Prepareadyebathwith10lb.salt,3lb.soda,3oz.diamineblue3R.
Workforonehourattheboil,thenlift,washanddry.
SkyBlue.Prepareadyebathwith2lb.TitancomoG,20lb.commonsalt,2oz.
aceticacid.Workattheboilforhalfanhour,thenlift,washanddry.
BrightBlue.Preparethedyebathwith1lb.Chicagoblue6B,20lb.Glauber's
salt,3lb.soap.Workattheboilforonehour,thenlift,washanddry.
PaleSkyBlue.Makethedyebathwith1oz.Chicagoblue6B,10lb.Glauber's
salt,2lb.soap.Workattheboilforonehour,thenlift,washanddry.
SkyBlue.Preparethedyebathwith1lb.DiamineskyblueFF,1lb.Turkeyred
oil,20lb.Glauber'ssalt.Dyeattheboilforonehour.
DarkBlue.Preparethedyebathwith2lb.DiamineralblueR,2lb.Diamine
deepblackCr,1lb.Turkeyredoil,40lb.Glauber'ssalt.Dyeattheboilforone
hour.
[Pg96]
DarkBlue.Preparethedyebathwith3lb.TriamineblackB,15lb.Glauber's
salt,in50gallonsofwater.Enterat150F.,andboilforonehour.Allowthegoods
toremainuntilthewateriscold,whenthedyebathwillbecompletelyexhausted.
57/253
12/9/2014
Blue.Preparethedyebathwith2lb.DiaminesteelblueL,2lb.soda,15lb.
Glauber'ssalt.Dyeattheboilforonehour.
Blue.Preparethedyebathwith4lb.DiamineblueBG,2lb.soda,20lb.
Glauber'ssalt.Dyeattheboilforonehour.Inshadethisisverysimilartothatgot
withDiaminebrilliantblueG,whichhowevershouldbeusedforlightshadeson
accountofitsbrightness.FordeepshadesDiamineblueBG,ispreferable,because
ofitsgreatertinctorialpower.
LightIndigoBlue.Preparethedyebathwith1lb.Paramineindigoblue,2lb.
soda,20lb.Glauber'ssalt.Enteratabout150F.,anddyeattheboilforonehour.
NavyBlue.Preparethedyebathwith4lb.ParaminenavyblueR,2lb.soda,20
lb.Glauber'ssalt.Enteratabout150F.,anddyeattheboilforonehour.
Blue.Preparethedyebathwith1lb.ParaminenavyblueR,2lb.soda,20lb.
Glauber'ssalt.Enteratabout150F.,anddyeattheboilforonehour.
NavyBlue.Preparethedyebathwith4lb.BenzochromeblackblueB,15lb.
Glauber'ssalt,3lb.soda.Workattheboilforonehourlift,rinseanddry.
GreyBlue.Preparethedyebathwith2lb.ParamineblueblackS,2lb.soda,20
lb.Glauber'ssalt.Enterat150F.,anddyeforonehouratboil.
Blue.Preparethedyebathwith1lb.ParamineblueB,2lb.soda,20lb.Glauber's
[Pg97]
salt.Enteratabout150F.,anddyeattheboilforonehour.
SlateBlue.Preparethedyebathwithlb.DiamineblackBH,oz.Diamine
fastyellowB,2lb.soda,and10lb.Glauber'ssalt.Dyeattheboiltoshade.
DeepBlue.Use3lb.DiamineblueBX,lb.OxydiamineblackN,3lb.soda
and20lb.Glauber'ssaltattheboilforonehour.
Blue.Dyeattheboilforonehourwith1lb.Diamineskyblue,2oz.Diamine
greenB,2lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt.
Navy.Dyewith1lb.DianildarkblueR,8oz.DianilblackCR,5lb.sodaand20
lb.saltattheboilforonehour.
DarkNavy.Use2lb.DianilblueB,2lb.DianildarkblueR,lb.DianilblackC
R,2lb.sodaand25lb.salt,workingattheboilforonehour.
DeepBlue.Dyewith3lb.DiamineblueblackE,5lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
DeepBlue.Dyewith3lb.ZambesiblackBR,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt
DarkNavy.Use3lb.DianildarkblueR,3lb.causticsoda70Tw.,and25lb.
salt,workingattheboilforonehour.
VioletBlue.Dyewith3lb.Dianildarkblue3Rand25lb.saltattheboilforone
hour.
BrightBlue.Use1lb.DianilblueB,and20lb.salt,workingattheboilforone
hour.
FullBlue.Dyewith3lb.Brilliantazurine5G,5lb.commonsalt,5lb.phosphate
ofsodaand2lb.soapattheboilforonehour.
58/253
12/9/2014
DarkBlue.Dyewith3lb.ErieblueBX,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltatthe
boilforonehour.
PaleBlue.Dyewith1lb.Chicagoblue6B,3lb.sodaand20lb.saltattheboil
foronehour.
DeepBlue.Dyewith1lb.OxydiamineblackA,2lb.DiaminedeepblueR,3
lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltattheboilforonehour.
[Pg98]
Blue.Dyewith6oz.Diamineblue3B,1oz.DiamineskyblueFF,3lb.soda
and10lb.Glauber'ssalt.
Navy.Dyewith4lb.DiaminenewblueR,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltat
theboilforonehour.
DarkNavy.Dyewith1lb.DiamineralblueR,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
SkyBlue.Preparethedyebathwith6oz.DiamineskyblueFF,3lb.sodaand10
lb.Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboilforonehour.
DarkBlue.Useinthedyebath3lb.DiamineblueRW,2lb.sodaand20lb.
DarkBlue.Preparethedyebathwith3lb.TriamineblackBT,and15lb.
Glauber'ssaltworkattheboiltoshade.
Blue.Use2lb.Directindigoblueand15lb.Glauber'ssaltworkattheboil.
BrightBlue.Useinthedyebath3lb.TitancomoSN,2lb.aceticacidand20lb.
salt,workingattheboilforonehour.
TurquoiseBlue.Dyewith1lb.Diamineskyblue,1oz.DiaminefastyellowB,2
lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboiltoshade.
DarkNavy.Use4lb.TitannavyR,and20lb.saltattheboilforonehour.
GreenBlue.Dyewith1lb.DianilblueG,2oz.DianilyellowG,1lb.sodaand
20lb.saltattheboilforonehour.
Manymoreformulcouldhavebeengiven,buttheabovewillperhapssuffice
theyincludeallthebestofthedirectblues.Palertintsofbluemaybegotbyusing
from1to2percent.ofanyofthesebluesandalsoofthemanydirectblacksnow
onthemarket.Thedirectbluesasarulehaveagooddegreeoffastnesstolight.
Lilac.Prepareadyebathwithlb.Hessianbrown2M,1oz.AzomauveAM,1 [Pg99]
lb.soap,2lb.soda,10lb.salt.Workattheboilforonehour,thenlift,washand
dry.
Plum.Dyewith3lb.OxydiaminevioletG,3lb.sodaand20lb.salt.
DarkPlum.Useinthedyebath3lb.OxydiaminevioletB,3lb.sodaand20lb.
Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboil.
Violet.Makethedyebathwithlb.OxydiaminevioletB,1lb.sodaand10lb.
Glauber'ssalt,anddyeattheboiltoshade.
Violet.Dyewith12oz.Dianilblue4R,2oz.DianilblueBand10lb.saltatthe
boil.
Lilac.Dyewith1oz.DiamineroseGD,oz.DiamineskyblueFF,1lb.soda
59/253
12/9/2014
and10lb.Glauber'ssaltattheboiltoshade.
RedViolet.Makethedyebathwithlb.DiaminevioletN,oz.Diamine
brilliantblueG,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboil.
RedViolet.Dyewith1lb.DiaminevioletN,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt.
BrightRedLilac.Dyewith1lb.ErikaBN,4oz.Chicagoblue4R,3lb.soda
and20lb.Glauber'ssaltattheboil.
GreyLilac.Dyewith12oz.NeutralgreyG,3oz.erikaBN,1lb.sodaand10lb.
Glauber'ssaltattheboilforonehour.
PaleLilac.Dyewith2oz.DianilclaretB,2oz.Dianilblue4R,and10lb.
salt.
LightPlum.Dyewith10oz.DianilclaretB,10oz.Dianilblueand20lb.salt.
DullLilac.Dyewithlb.DiaminebrownV,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt.
Heliotrope.Dyewith4oz.Heliotrope2B,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt.
Plum.Dyewith3lb.CongoCorinthB,3lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt.
[Pg100]
DullViolet.Useinthedyebath1lb.Chicagoblue4R,14oz.ErikaBN,3lb.
sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboilforonehour.
RedLilac.Dyewith6oz.OxydiaminevioletG,2oz.OxydiaminevioletB,1lb.
sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssaltattheboilforonehour.
Violet.Dyewith3oz.DiaminevioletN,2oz.diamineblue3R,1lb.sodaand10
lb.Glauber'ssalt.
FawnDrab.Prepareadyebathwith1lb.Cachoudelaval,oz.Benzo
purpurineB.Enterthecottonintothisbathinthecoldandheattotheboil,taking
aboutonehourfortheoperation,thenadd4lb.commonsaltandboilforthree
quartersofanhourlongerlift,washanddry.
PaleOliveBrown.Thedyebathismadewith1lb.DiaminebronzeG,1oz.
CottonbrownN,3oz.Diaminegold,5lb.soda,15lb.Glauber'ssalt.Workatthe
boilforonehour,thenlift,washanddry.
RedBrown.Prepareadyebathwith1lb.Cottonyellow,4lb.Hessianbrown2
BN,2lb.DiamineblackRO,1lb.soda,2lb.salt.Enterthegoodsat180F.,then
raisetotheboilandworktotheshadelift,washanddry.
BrownDrab.Prepareadyebathwithlb.CottonbrownN,oz.Diamine
yellowN,oz.DiamineblackBO,15lb.phosphateofsoda,3lb.soap.Workat
theboilforonehour.
GoldBrown.Preparethedyebathwith16oz.ToluyleneorangeG,9oz.
ToluyleneorangeR,4oz.azomauve,2lb.soap,5lb.soda.Dyeattheboilfor
onehour.
ChestnutBrown.Prepareadyebathwith10lb.commonsalt,2lb.Benzobrown
G,lb.BenzoazurineG,lb.Chrysophenine.Enterthegoodsat150F.,raiseto
theboilanddyeboilingforonehour.
PurpleBrown.Prepareadyebathwith10lb.commonsalt,2lb.BenzobrownN
B,1lb.Azoviolet.Enterthecottonat150F.,raisetotheboilanddyeboilingfor
[Pg101]
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anhourlift,washanddry.
Brown.Prepareadyebathwith5lb.soda,10lb.Glauber'ssalt,12oz.
Chrysamine,1oz.Benzopurpurine,6oz.Benzoazurine.Dyeattheboilforone
hour,rinseanddry.Thebrownthusgotisfasttowashing.
DarkChestnutBrown.Prepareadyebathwith10lb.salt,3lb.BenzobrownNB
X,raiseto150F.,entergoods,heattoboil,andworkforonehourlift,rinseand
dry.
DarkBrown.Prepareadyebathwith20oz.Glauber'ssaltpergallonofwater
used,2lb.soap,1lb.DiamineblackRO,2lb.CottonbrownN.Entertheyarn
at180F.,givethreeturns,raisetemperaturetoboil,andworktoshadelift,rinse
andwash.
GoldBrown.Preparethedyebathwith4lb.Titangold,50lb.salt.Workatthe
boilforthirtyminutes,thenlift,washanddry.Thedyebathisnotexhausted,only
about3lb.ofthecolourbeingtakenupbythecotton.Itmay,therefore,bekeptfor
furtherlots,adding3lb.morecolourandabout20lb.moresaltforeachbatchof
cotton,orifitisnotdesiredtokeepthebath,addlesscolourtostartwith,and
towardstheendoftheoperationaddmoresalt.
Brown.Preparethedyebathwith4lb.ParaminebrownG,20lb.Glauber'ssalt,2
lb.soda.Dyeattheboilforonehour.
LightBrown.Preparethedyebathwith3lb.DiaminecatechineG,3lb.soda,15
DarkBrown.Preparethedyebathwith5lb.DiaminecatechineB,3lb.soda,15
DarkDrab.Preparethedyebathwith1lb.TitanbrownY,3oz.Columbiagreen,
32oz.Diaminebronze,17lb.Glauber'ssalt.Workattheboilforonehour,then
[Pg102]
lift,washanddry.
PaleBrown.Thedyebathismadewith2lb.Mikadoorange4R,3oz.Benzofast
grey,30lb.Glauber'ssalt.Workattheboilforonehour,thenlift,ashanddry.
GoldBrown.Makeadyebathwith1lb.Titangold,50lb.commonsalt.Enterat
theboil,workforanhour,thenlift,washanddry.Keepthebathforanotherlotof
goodsitwillonlyrequiretheadditionofabout14oz.ofcolourand10lb.salt.
BuffBrown.Makethedyebathwithlb.Titangold,lb.TitanbrownR,5oz.
Titanblue3B,40lb.commonsalt.Workattheboiltoshade,thenlift,washand
dry.
DeepChestnutBrown.Makethedyebathwith3lb.TitanbrownR,1lb.Titan
blueR,25lb.commonsalt.Workattheboilforanhour,thenlift,washanddry.
LightSealBrown.Makethedyebathwith10lb.salt,2lb.soda,14oz.
Oxyphenine,lb.AtlasredR,6oz.DiamineblueBX.Workattheboiltoshade,
thenlift,washanddry.
OrangeBrown.Makeadyebathwith10lb.salt,2lbsoda,14oz.Oxyphenine,1
lb.AtlasredR,1oz.DiamineblueBX.Workattheboiltoshade,thenlift,wash
anddry.
PaleNutBrown.Useinthedyebath4oz.DiaminecatechineG,1oz.Diamine
brownM,1oz.DiaminecatechineB,2lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,working
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WalnutBrown.Dyewith1lb.DiaminebrownM,3oz.DiamineorangeG,2oz.
DiamineblackHW,2lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssaltattheboilforonehour.
BlackBrown.Useinthedyebath3lb.DiaminebrownM,lb.Diamineblue
blackR,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboil.
ReddishBrown.Dyewith2lb.DianilbrownR,5lb.saltand5lb.phosphateof
sodaattheboilforonehour.
ChocolateBrown.Dyewith2lb.DianilbrownT,5lb.phosphateofsodaand5
lb.saltattheboilforonehour.
[Pg103]
DarkBrown.Dyewith2lb.Dianildarkbrown,5lb.saltand5lb.phosphateof
sodaattheboilforonehour.
LightBrown.Preparethedyebathwith5lb.DiaminecatechineG,3lb.sodaand
15lb.Glauber'ssalt.
Brown.Dyewith2lb.CottonbrownN,4oz.DiamineblackHW,2lb.soda
and20lb.Glauber'ssaltattheboilforonehour.
DarkWalnutBrown.Makethedyebathwith3lb.DiaminebrownM,6oz.
DiaminecatechineB,6oz.Diaminered5B,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt
workattheboil.
DarkChestnutBrown.Dyewith2lb.DianilbrownR,1lb.sodaand20lb.salt
attheboil.
DarkBrown.Dyewith2lb.Dianilbrown3GO,2lb.DianilbrownBD,1lb.
Dianilred4B,3lb.sodaand25lb.saltattheboilforonehour.
Brown.Preparethedyebathwith5lb.MikadobrownMand25lb.saltworkthe
cottoninthisattheboilforonehour.
NutBrown.Useinthedyebath2lb.BenzobrownGand15lb.salt,workingat
theboil.
DarkBrown.Useinthedyebath3lb.BenzobrownNBand15lb.Glauber's
salt,workingattheboil.
DarkBrown.Makethedyebathwith4lb.DiphenylbrownBN,10lb.Glauber's
saltand4lb.soap,workingattheboiltoshade.
BlackBrown.Useinthedyebath2lb.Dianilbrown3GO,1lb.Dianil
brownG,lb.DianildarkblueR,3lb.sodaand25lb.salt.
DarkBrown.Dyewith1lb.ZambesiblackD,1lb.BrilliantorangeG,3lb.
sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltattheboiltoshade.
GoldBrown.Dyewith2lb.CurcumineS,1lb.ColumbiaorangeR,5oz.
ColumbiablackFB,3lb.sodaand15lb.Glauber'ssaltattheboil.
[Pg104]
DarkChestnut.Dyeattheboilwith2lb.ColumbiaOrangeR,8oz.Columbia
blackFB,2lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt.
SageBrown.Dyewith1lb.ZambesiblackD,1lb.CurcumineS,lb.Diamine
orangeGD,3lb.sodaand30lb.Glauber'ssaltattheboil.
DeepBrown.Dye3lb.DiaminebrownM,lb.OxydiamineorangeG,lb.
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DiamineblackHW,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltattheboil.
Chestnut.Dyewith2lb.DiaminebrownG,lb.OxydiamineorangeR,3lb.
PaleWalnutBrown.Dyewith3lb.DiaminebrownM,lb.Oxydiamine
orangeG,1oz.DiamineblackBH,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
Variousotherbrownsmaybeobtainedbycombiningthevariousdirectbrowns
togetherorwithotherdirectdyes.Theuseofayellowororangewillbrighten
themthatofaredwillreddentheshadetheadditionofadarkblueorablackwill
darkentheshadeconsiderably.Itmaybeusefultorememberthatacombinationof
red,orangeandblueorblackproducesabrown,andbyusingvariousproportionsa
greatrangeofshadescanbedyed.
Black.Prepareadyebathwith6lb.DiamineblackRO,2oz.ThioflavineS,2lb.
soap,10lb.salt.Enterthecottonattheboilanddyeforonehourlift,washand
dry.
Black.Preparethedyebathwith5lb.DirectdeepblackEextra,andto1oz.
commonsaltpergallonofwater.Dyeattheboilforonehour.
DeepBlack.Preparethedyebathwith5lb.DiaminedeepblackRB,2lb.
soda,20lb.Glauber'ssalt.Dyeattheboilforonehourlift,washanddry.
Black.Preparethedyebathwith5lb.DirecttriamineblackGX,15lb.Glauber's
salt.Dyeforonehourattheboillift,rinseanddry.Inworkingforfromtwoto
threehoursthedyebathwillexhaustcompletely.
[Pg105]
Black.Preparethedyebathwith5lb.OxydiamineblackA,20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
2lb.soda.Dyeattheboilforonehour.
Black.Preparethedyebathwith6lb.PlutoblackB.Dyeattheboilforonehour
withtheadditionofto1oz.Glauber'ssalt,tooz.sodaashpergallonof
liquor.Todeveloptheshadeitisnecessarytodyeinaboilingliquor.
Black.Use2lb.DiaminejetblackCr,2lb.DiaminejetblackRB,2lb.soda,
and20lb.Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboilforonehour.
Black.Use6lb.OxydiamineblackNR,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
workingattheboilforonehour.
Black.Use6lb.ColumbiaBlackFBB,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
workingattheboiltoshade.
Besidestheblacksgivenintheaboverecipes,thereareotherbrandswhichareused
inthesameway,andvaryslightlyintheshadeofblacktheygive.
Allthedirectblacksrequireworkinginstrongbathstogiveanythinglikeblack
shadestheyallhave,moreorless,abluishtone,whichcanbechangedtoajetter
shadebytheadditionofayelloworgreendyeinsmallproportions,whichhasbeen
doneinoneoftherecipesgivenabove.
Bycoupling,chromingordeveloping,thedirectblackscanbemadetogivefull,
deepandfastblacks,andexamplesoftheiruseinthismannerwillbefoundin
followingsections.
Byusingallthedirectblacksinproportionsvaryingfromto1percent.ofdye
stufftotheweightofthecottontheygivegreysofvarioustintsanddepthsafew
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examplesofsuchgreyswillnowbegiven.
BlueGrey.Preparethedyebathwithlb.OxydiamineblackA,1lb.soda,10lb.
[Pg106]
Glauber'ssalt.Dyeattheboilforonehour.
BrightGrey.Prepareadyebathwith4oz.AzomauveAM,1oz.Direct
yellowG,3lb.soda,15lb.commonsalt.
SilverGrey.Preparethedyebathwithoz.NeutralgreyG,10lb.sulphateof
soda.Workattheboiltoshade,thenlift,washanddry.
Slate.Dyeinabathwithlb.DiamineblackBH,3oz.DiaminebronzeG,15
lb.Glauber'ssaltattheboilforthreequartersofanhour.
BronzeGrey.Prepareadyebathwithlb.DiaminebronzeG,15lb.Glauber's
salt,3lb.soap.Enteratabout160F.,raisetoboilandworkforonehourlift,
washanddry.
DarkSlate.Prepareadyebathwith10lb.Glauber'ssalt,1lb.soap,1lb.
DiamineblackRO,2lb.CottonbrownN.Heattoabout150F.Enterthegoods,
workforashorttime,thenraisetotheboilandworkforonehourlift,washand
dry.
GreenGrey.Prepareadyebathwith10lb.Glauber'ssalt,1lb.DiamineblackR
O,oz.ThioflavineS.Enteratfrom150Tw.to180F.,raisetoboilanddyefor
onehourwashanddry.
LightSlate.Prepareadyebathcontaining2lb.soap,15lb.Glauber'ssalt,6oz.
DiamineblackRO,oz.thioflavineS.Entercottonat140F.,workalittle,then
heattoboilanddyetoshadelift,washanddry.
Grey.Preparethedyebathwithlb.DiaminegreyG,oz.DiaminescarletB,
1lb.soda,1lb.soap,5lb.Glauber'ssalt.Dyeforonehourattheboil.
LightGrey.Preparethedyebathwith1lb.DiaminegreyG,1lb.soda,1lb.soap,
5lb.Glauber'ssalt.Dyeforonehourattheboillift,rinseanddry.
Itmaybeconvenientheretodealwiththequestionofthefastnessofthedirectdyes
[Pg107]
tosuchinfluencesaslight,air,acids,alkalies,washingandsoaping,thathavea
verymaterialinfluenceontheuseofthesedyesindyeingvariousfabrics.This
mattercanonlybedealtwithhereinverygeneralterms,forspaceislimitedandthe
dyesaretoonumerousfordetailedmention.Theyvaryverygreatlyindegreesof
fastness,someareabsolutelyfasttoallinfluencestheblacksareamongthefastest,
generallytheseresistwashingandsoaping,standacidswellandarefasttoalkalies,
lighthoweveraffectsthemmoreorless,thoughtheycannotbereckonedfugitive
colours.Thefewdirectgreensknownaregoodcolourstheystandwashing,
soapingandlightwell,buttheyareaffectedbyacidsandalkalies.Thebluesvary
verymuch,generallytheystandsoapingandhaveafairdegreeoffastnesstolight,
acidshavebutlittleaction,alkaliestendtoreddentheshade,whileheatalsoaffects
them.Thedirectbrownsareveryvariabletheyareingeneralnotfasttolightthey
standwashingandsoapingandresistalkalies,butarealteredbyacidsslightly.The
yellowsrankamongthefastestofcolourstolightandwashingandsoapingacids
havebutlittleeffecttheyarereddenedbyalkalies.Amongtheredsthereisgreat
variationinproperties,generallytheyarenotfasttolight,standingwashingand
soapingwellandresistingweakalkaliessomeofthem,suchastheBenzo
purpurinesandCongoredsareverysensitivetoacids,beingturnedbluewithvery
weakacids,butonwashingorsoapingtheoriginalcolourcomesbackothers,like
theTitanreds,DiamineredsandDeltapurpurinesarenotsosensitive,buttheseare
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affectedbymoderatelystrongacidsthereareoneortworedslikeBenzofast
scarlet4BSandPurpuramineDH,whicharefasttoacids.Thedepthofshade
whichisdyedhassomeconsiderableinfluenceonthedegreeoffastness,thedeeper
shadesofacolourarealwaysfasterthanthepalershades,particularlyasregards
[Pg108]
light,adifferenceofpercent,ofdyestuffhasbeenknowntomakeavery
appreciabledegreeofdifferenceasregardsthefastnessofacolourtolight.
Indyeingcottonwithallthedirectdyes,itisfoundthatthewholeofthedyestuff
isnotremovedfromthedyebath,howmuchistakenupbythecotton,andthe
depthoftheshadewhichisdyeduponthecottonchieflydependsuponthree
factors:
(1)Volumeofwaterused.(2)Quantityofsalinesaltsused.(3)Degreeofaffinityof
thedyestuffforthefibre.
Theremayalsobesomeminorfactorssuchastemperatureatwhichthedyeingis
carriedon,thecharacterandconditionofthefabricsbeingdyed,etc.
Thevolumeofwaterusedinmakingthedyebathhasaverygreatinfluenceupon
theamountofdyetakenupbythecotton,thegreaterthevolumeofwatertheless
dyeisabsorbedandthepalerthecolourwhichisproduceduponthefibre.Itis
thereforeimportanttouseaslittlewateraspossibleinmakingupthedyebath,
indeed,foranythinglikegoodresultstobeobtainedwithsomedyes,especially
thoseofthesulphurserieslikeVidalblack,Immedialblacks,Katigenbrowns,
Crossdyeblacks,Amidazolblacks,etc.,itisnecessarytoemploywhatiscalleda
shortbath,thatismakingitasstrongaspossible.Theproportionofwaterwithsuch
dyesshouldnotexceedfifteentimestheweightofthecottonbeingdyed,thatis,for
everypoundofcotton,1gallonsofwatercanbeallowed.Thiswillsuitthe
dyeingofyarnsandloosefabricslikeknittedstockingsandhosierygoodsvery
well.Inthecaseofdyeingpiecegoodsonajiggerorcontinuousdyeingmachines
evenstrongerliquorscanbeusedwithadvantage.Withsomeoftheolder,direct
dyeslikeCongored,Benzoazurine,Diaminescarlets,theproportionofwatermay
[Pg109]
beincreasedtotwentytimestheweightofthecotton.Inanycasethequantityof
waterusedshouldnotexceedtwentyfivetimestheweightofthecotton.
Thesecondfactor,thequantityofsalinesalts,likeGlauber'ssalt,soda,borax,etc.,
addedinthedyeing,isnotwithoutinfluence,generallythemorethatisaddedthe
moredyethereisleftinthebath,buthereagainmuchdependsuponthesaltand
thecolouringmattersused.Somesalts,moreparticularlyGlauber'ssaltand
commonsalt,tendtothrowsomedyestuffsoutofthebath,andsothemorethere
isusedofthemthedeepertheshadeproducedonthefabric.Itisquiteimpossible,
havingregardtothescopeofthisbook,todealwiththisquestionindetail.The
dyershouldascertainforhimselfthebestsaltsandthebestproportionsoftheseto
usewiththeparticulardyesheisusing.Therecipesgivenabovewillgivehim
someideasonthispoint.
Thethirdfactor,thedegreeofaffinityofthedyeforthecottonfibre,hassome
influenceonthedepthofshadewhichcanbedyedfromanygivenstrengthofthe
dyebath.Thereisaveryconsiderabledifferenceamongthedirectdyesinthis
respect.Therearesomewhichhaveafairdegreeofaffinity,whilethereareothers
whichhavebutlittleaffinity,andwhileintheformercasethereislittledyeleftin
thebath,inthelattercasethereisagooddeal.Whendyeingplainshadeswith
singledyestuffsthisisnotofmuchmoment,becauseifthebathbekeptforfurther
use,aswillbespokenofpresently,thebathmaybebroughtuptoitsoriginal
strengthbyaddingaproportionateamountofdyestuff,butwhencompoundshades
arebeingdyed,usingtwoormoredyes,thenthisfeaturehassomeinfluence,for
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theywillnotbeabsorbedbythefibreinthesameproportionastheywereputinthe
bath,andsowhenmakingupthedyebathforthesecondlot,andaddingthesame
proportionofdyes,theshadewhichisproducedwillnotbequitethesame,forthe
[Pg110]
firstlotofcottonintakingupthedyesinvaryingquantitieshasalteredtheir
relativeproportions,andsothebathforthesecondlotofcottonwillactually
containmoreofonedyethandidthefirstbath,andtheinfluenceofthisexcessof
theoneconstituentwillshowitselfintheshadeultimatelydyed.Themorelotsof
cottontherearedyedinthebaththegreaterwillthisinfluencebe.Thedyermustby
practicalexperiencefindoutforhimselfinwhatdirectionthisfeatureofthedirect
dyesexertsitsinfluenceontheparticulardyesheisworkingwithandmakedue
allowance.
Itisfoundinpracticethatfromonefourthtoonehalfoftheoriginalweightofdye
stuffisleftinthebath,andinordertobeaseconomicalaspossibleacustomhas
arisenofkeepingthebathandusingitagainfordyeingfurtherlotsofcotton.In
thusmakingacontinuoususeofdyebathsitisimportantinpreparingthebathsfor
thenextlotofcottontoaddfirsttherequisitequantitiesofdyestuffs,howmuch
willdependuponthefactorsandconditionsalreadydetailed,butfromonehalfto
threefourthsoftheoriginalquantitiesareadded.Practicalexperiencealoneisthe
guidetobefollowed.
Havingaddedthedyestuff,thensufficientwatermustbeaddedtobringupthe
volumeofthebathtotheproperamount,foritwillhavelostsome.Thelossof
waterarisesfromtwosources:firstthereistheevaporation,whichalwaysoccurs
whendyebathsareheatedup,and,second,thereisthemechanicallossduetoits
absorptionbythematerialwhichisbeingdyed.Whenapieceofcottonorother
textilefabricisimmersedinadyeliquoritabsorbsmechanicallysomeofit,and
thisamountmayberoughlyputdownasaboutitsownweightthus100lb.weight
ofcottonwilltakeup10gallonsofliquorandcarrythatquantityoutofthebath.To
someextentthismaybeminimisedbyapreviouswettingoutofthecotton,which
willthenhaveinitasmuchliquorasitwilltakeup,andsopracticallynomorewill
[Pg111]
betakenupfromthedyebath.Anylossofvolumewhichmaythusoccurcanbe
remediedbytheadditionofwater.
Thedyebathscontaininginsolution,inadditiontothedyestuff,salt,orGlauber's
salt,oranyotheraddedsubstance,thecottonintakingupthedyeliquorwillof
coursetakeupsomeoftheseinproportiontothevolumeofliquorabsorbed.The
amountmayrangefrom4oz.to1lb.pergallonofliquor,andif100lb.cottonis
beingdyedandtakesupfrom10to15gallonsofliquor,itisobviousthatitmust
absorbfrom3to10lb.ofsalinematter,andasthesalinityofthedyeliquorisof
someimportanceindyeingdirectcolours,inmakingupthebathforthenextlotof
cottonthismustbeallowedforandsuitableadditionsmade.Inordertodothis
properlyitisagoodplantorelyupontheTwaddell.
ThedyershouldtaketheTwaddellofhisbathbeforeuseandalwaysmakeuphis
bathstothatstrength.Thiswillbefoundtorangefrom3to12Tw.
Thus,forinstance,adyebathmadefrom120gallonsofwaterwith20lb.to25lb.
commonsaltorGlauber'ssaltwiththedyestuffswillstandat4Tw.,onemade
with50lb.commonsaltorGlauber'ssaltat8Tw.,whileonewhichismadewith
80lb.to100lb.saltwillstandat12to13Tw.Ifthedyeralwaysmaintainshis
liquorsatoneuniformdegreeTwaddellhecaninvariablydependupongetting
uniformshadesfromhisdyebaths.Thisuniformstrengthisattainedbyadding
moresaltormorewaterasthecasemayrequire.
Ofcoursethecontinuousworkingofdyebathscannotgoonforeversooneror
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laterthebathsbecomethickanddirty,andthentheymustbethrownawayanda
newbathstarted.
[Pg112]
(2)DIRECTDYEINGFOLLOWEDBYFIXATIONWITHMETALLICSALTS.
Itisanacknowledgedprincipleindyeingthattoproducecoloursfasttowashing,
soapingandrubbing,theremustbeproducedonthefibreaninsolublecoloured
substance.Nowasthedirectdyesdonotessentiallyproducesuchinsolublebodies
whendyedonthecotton,thecolourstheyformarenotalwaysfasttowashingand
soaping.Ithasbeenascertained,however,thatsomeofthedirectdyes,e.g.,Benzo
azurine,Chicagoblue,Catechubrowns,Diamineblues,Diaminebrowns,etc.,are
capableofunitingwithmetallicbodiestoforminsolublecolourlakes,andthis
combinationcantakeplaceonthefibre.Fastshadesmaybedyedwiththedye
stuffsnamedabove,andwithothersofthisgroup,byfirstdyeingthemintheusual
way,thenpassingthroughaboilingbathcontainingbichromateofpotashorcopper
sulphate,eithertogetherorseparately.Thetwofixingagentsherenamedhavebeen
foundtobethebest,althoughothers,as,forinstance,zincsulphate,chromium
fluorideandironsulphatehavebeentried.Withsomedyesthereislittleorno
alterationinshade,butinothersthereissomechange,thusthebluesasaruletend
tobecomegreenerintone,andbrownsalsotendtoacquireagreenertoneand
deepershade.Thetreatedshadesthusobtainedarenotableforconsiderablefastness
towashing,soapingandlight.Itistobenotedthatbichromateofpotashexercises
bothafixingandanoxidisingactionondyestuffs,henceitisneedfultouseitwith
somedegreeofcautionandnotintoogreatanamount,otherwisewithsomedyes
thereisariskofoveroxidation,andinconsequencepoorshadeswillbedeveloped.
Thefollowingrecipeswillservetoshowwhatdyesmaythusbeused,andthe
[Pg113]
coloursthatcanbeobtainedwiththem.
DarkRed.Useinthedyebath3lb.DiaminefastredF,3lb.sodaand20lb.
Glauber'ssalt,workattheboilforonehour,thenlift,rinseandpassintoaboiling
bathcontaining3lb.fluorideofchromiumfortentofifteenminutes,thenlift,rinse
anddry.Byusing1lb.ofthedyestuffinthesamewayalightredshadeisgot.
Orange.Dyeattheboilforonehourwith1lb.ChrysamineG,3lb.soapand10
lb.Glauber'ssalt,thenrinseandfixinafreshboilingbathwith1lb.bichromateof
potash,3lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.aceticacid.
Yellow.Dyewith3lb.DiamineyellowN,3lb.soapand15lb.phosphateof
soda,thenfixwith4lb.fluorideofchromium.
GoldYellow.Preparethedyebathwith3lb.Benzochromebrown5G,1lb.soda
ash,12lb.Glauber'ssalt.Dyeattheboilforonehourandrinse.Thisgivesan
orangebrown.Togettheyellowshade,afterwardschromewith3lb.bichromateof
potash,3lb.sulphateofcopper,1lb.aceticacid,inafreshbath.Enteratabout
130F.,bringtotheboil,andboilforhalfanhour.
PaleLeafGreen.Dyewith3lb.Dianilyellow3G,1lb.DianilyellowR,1lb.
DianilblueG,and20lb.salt,thenfixwith3lb.coppersulphateand2lb.acetic
acid.
LeafGreen.Dyewith3lb.Dianilyellow3G,3lb.DianilblueG,and20lb.salt,
fixingwith4lb.coppersulphateand2lb.aceticacid.
DarkGreen.Dyewith2lb.DianilyellowR,1lb.DianildarkblueR,1lb.soda
and20lb.salt,fixingwith3lb.coppersulphate.
PaleOliveGreen.Dyewith2lb.DiaminefastyellowB,1lb.DiamineblueR
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W,lb.DiamineblueRW,lb.DiaminecatechineGfixwith4lb.sulphateof
copperand2lb.aceticacid.
RussiaGreen.Dyewith2lb.DiamineblueRW,10oz.DiaminedarkblueB,
2lb.DiaminefastyellowB,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltfixwith4lb.
sulphateofcopperand2lb.aceticacid.
[Pg114]
BlueGreen.Dyewith1lb.DiamineskyblueFF,6oz.DiaminefastyellowB,
1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssaltfixwith2lb.sulphateofcopperand1lb.acetic
acid.
BronzeGreen.Useinthebathattheboil4lb.DiaminebronzeG,2lb.sodaand
10lb.Glauber'ssalt,thenfixwith4lb.fluorideofchromium.
PeaGreen.Dyeinaboilingbathwithlb.DiamineskyblueFF,2lb.
DiaminefastyellowA,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,thenfixinafreshbath
with2lb.sulphateofcopperand1lb.aceticacid.
LeafGreen.Dyeattheboilforonehourinabathcontaining2lb.Diaminefast
yellowB,1lb.DiamineblueRW,7oz.DiaminecatechineB,2lb.sodaand20
lb.Glauber'ssalt,thenfixinanewbathwith4lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.
aceticacid.
LightGreen.Preparethedyebathwith7oz.DiamineblueRW,5oz.
DiamineorangeB,2lb.DiaminefastyellowB,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,
workattheboilforonehour,thentreatinafreshbathwith3lb.sulphateofcopper.
OliveGreen.Dyewith2lb.ChicagoblueRW,15oz.ChrysamineG,2lb.
sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssaltfixwith1lb.bichromateofpotash,3lb.sulphateof
PeaGreen.Useinthedyebath3lb.ChrysophenineG,1lb.Chicagoblue6B,2
lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboilforonehour,thenfixina
freshboilingbathwith3lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.aceticacid.
Green.Dyewith2lb.Chicagoblue6B,5oz.ChrysamineG,2lb.soapand20
lb.Glauber'ssaltfixwith1lb.bichromateofpotash,3lb.sulphateofcopperand2
lb.aceticacid.
[Pg115]
DarkGreen.Dyewith1lb.DiaminegreenB,1oz.DiaminebronzeG,1lb.
DiaminefastyellowA,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboilfor
onehour,thenlift,rinseandfixinafreshboilingbathwith3lb.fluorideof
chromiumforonetofifteenminutes.
DarkBronze.Useinthedyebath2lb.DiaminebronzeG,3lb.sodaand20lb.
Glauber'ssalt,workingattheboilforonehour,thenlift,rinseandfixwith3lb.
fluorideofchromiumasabove.
DarkBlue.Preparethedyebathwith3lb.BenzoblueRW,10lb.Glauber'ssalt
dyeforonehourattheboil,thentreatinfreshbathwith1lb.sulphateofcopperat
theboilforhalfanhour.
Blue.Dyewith1lb.DiaminebrilliantblueG,1lb.DiamineskyblueFF,2
lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltfixinabathwith4lb.sulphateofcopperand2
lb.aceticacid.
LightNavy.Dyewith1lb.Diamineblue3R,2lb.DiamineblueRW,2lb.
sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltfixwith4lb.sulphateofcopperand20lb.acetic
acid.
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BrightNavy.Dyewith4lb.DiaminebrilliantblueG,2lb.sodaand20lb.
Glauber'ssaltfixwith4lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.aceticacid.
Blue.Dyewith3lb.ChicagoblueRW,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltfix
with3lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.aceticacid.
DarkBlue.Dyewith3lb.ChicagoblueRW,1lb.ZambesiblackF,3lb.
sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltfixwith3lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.aceticacid.
DeepSlateBlue.Dyewith1lb.ZambesiblackF,1lb.ChicagoblueB,6oz.
Columbiayellow,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltfixwith3lb.sulphateof
LightBlue.Preparethedyebathwith2oz.DiamineskyblueFF,oz.Diamine
fastyellowA,lb.soda,2lb.soapand5lb.Glauber'ssaltdyeforonehouratthe
boil,thentreatinafreshbathwith1lb.sulphateofcopperforhalfanhour.
[Pg116]
DarkBlue.Preparethedyebathwith4lb.BenzochromeblackblueB,15lb.
Glauber'ssaltand3lb.soda.Workattheboilforonehour,thenchromeinafresh
bathwith1lb.bichromateofpotash,1lb.sulphateofcopperandlb.sulphuric
acid.
DarkBlue.Dyewith2lb.DiamineralblueR,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
saltfixwith2lb.sulphateofcopper,2lb.bichromateofpotashand2lb.acetic
acid.
TurquoiseBlue.Dyewith1lb.Chicagoblue6B,2lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber's
salt,andfixwith3lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.aceticacid.
DarkTurquoiseBlue.Dyewith3lb.Chicagoblue4B,2lb.sodaand10lb.
Glauber'ssalt,andfixwith3lb.sulphateofcopperand2lbs.aceticacid.
BlackBlue.Dyewith4lb.DiaminedarkblueB,1lb.DiaminenewblueR,2
lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,fixingwith5lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.
aceticacid.
BymixingtogetherthevariousDiaminebluesaverygreatrangeofshadescanbe
produced,frompaleskybluetintstothedeepestofblues.
BrightBlue.Dyewith2lb.DianilblueBand20lb.Glauber'ssaltfixwith3lb.
offluorideofchromium.
DarkBlue.Dyewith3lb.DianilblueB,1lb.DianildarkblueR,1lb.sodaand
20lb.salt,fixingwith3lb.fluorideofchromium.
RedViolet.Dyewith1lb.Dianilblue4Rand10lb,salt,fixingwith4lb.
fluorideofchromium.
DarkPlum.Dyewith3lb.Dianilblue4Rand15lb.salt,fixingwith4lb.
fluorideofchromium.
RedViolet.Dyewith1lb.Diamineblue3R,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,
fixingwith1lb.sulphateofcopperand1lb.aceticacid.
[Pg117]
RedPlum.Use3lb.Diamineblue3R,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
fixingwith5lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.aceticacid.
DarkBrown.Preparethedyebathwith5lb.DiaminecatechineB,3lb.sodaand
15lb.Glauber'ssaltanddyeattheboilforonehour,thentreatwith2lb.sulphate
ofcopperand2lb.bichromateofpotash.
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12/9/2014
Brown.Preparethedyebathwith4lb.ParaminebrownC,20lb.Glauber'ssalt,2
lb.sodaanddyeattheboilforonehourtreatwith3lb.coppersulphate.
LightBrown.Dyeattheboilforonehourinabathcontaining5lb.Diamine
catechineG,3lb.sodaand15lb.Glauber'ssalt,thentreatinafreshbathwith2lb.
sulphateofcopperand2lb.bichromateofpotash.
DarkChestnutBrown.Dyeforanhourinaboilingbathwith2lb.Diamine
catechineG,1lb.DiaminefastyellowB,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltthen
fixinafreshboilingbathwith2lb.sulphateofcopper,2lb.bichromateofpotash
and2lb.aceticacid,workingforfifteentotwentyminutes,thenrinsinganddrying.
Brown.Use3lb.CatechubrownGK,15lb.Glauber'ssaltandlb.soapafter
dyeingforonehourattheboiltreatinafreshboilingbathwith3lb.copper
sulphate.
DarkBrown.Dyeattheboilforonehourwith3lb.CatechubrownFK,15lb.
Glauber'ssaltand1lb.soap,thentreatinafreshboilingbathwith3lb.copper
sulphate.
Brown.Preparethedyebathwith9oz.DiamineblueRW,12oz.Diamine
orangeB,1lb.DiaminefastyellowB,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltafter
workingforonehourattheboiltreatinafreshboilingbathwith4lb.sulphateof
copper.
Brown.Preparethedyebathwith4lb.Benzochromebrown2R,20lb.Glauber's [Pg118]
salt(crystals)anddyeattheboilforonehourafterwardstreatwithbichromateof
potashandsulphateofcopper.
NutBrown.Dyeinabathwith4lb.BenzochromebrownGand20lb.salt,then
treatinafreshbathwith4lb.bichromateofpotash,4lb.coppersulphateand1lb.
aceticacid.
ChestnutBrown.Dyeattheboilforonehourinabathcontaining4lb.Benzo
chromebrownR,andboilingbathwith4lb.bichromateofpotash,4lb.sulphateof
DarkOliveBrown.Dyewith4lb.DiaminebronzeG,1lb.DiamineorangeB,2
lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltfixwith5lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.acetic
acid.
DeepBrown.UseintheDyebath1lb.DiaminebrownB,1lb.Diaminefast
yellowB,oz.DiamineblackBH,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.Thefixing
bathcontains2lb.sulphateofcopper,2lb.bichromateofpotash,and2lb.acetic
acid.
DarkBrown.Dyewith2lb.DiaminebrownM,1lb.DiaminefastredF,lb.
DiaminejetblackCr,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.Thefixingbathcontains2
lb.sulphateofcopper,2lb.bichromateofpotashand2lb.aceticacid.
BlackBrown.Dyewith1lb.DiaminedarkblueB,lb.DiamineorangeB,1
lb.DiaminefastyellowB,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,fixingwith5lb.
LightSageBrown.Dyewithlb.DiaminebrownB,1lb.Diaminefastyellow
B,3oz.DiaminedarkblueB,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,fixingwith3lb.
PaleBrown.Useinthedyebath1lb.Dianilbrown3GO,4oz.DianilbrownE,
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12/9/2014
4oz.DianilblackN,1lb.sodaand20lb.salt,fixingwith1lb.sulphateofcopper [Pg119]
and1lb.aceticacid.
WalnutBrown.Dyewith2lb.Diamineblue3R,1lb.DiaminebrownM,2lb.
sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,thenfixwith5lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.acetic
acid.
PaleFawnBrown.Dyewith2lb.Diamineblue3R,1lb.DiaminebrownM,2
lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,thenfixwith5lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.
aceticacid.
PaleFawnBrown.Dyewithlb.DiamineorangeB,lb.Diaminefastyellow
B,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,fixingwith2lb.sulphateofcopperand1lb.
aceticacid.
SageBrown.Dyewith9oz.DiamineblueRW,lb.DiamineorangeB,1lb.
DiaminefastyellowB,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.Thefixingisdonewith
4lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.aceticacid.
RedChocolate.Dyewith3lb.DiamineorangeB,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber's
saltfixwith2lb.sulphateofcopperand1lb.aceticacid.
DarkChestnut.Dyewith2lb.Dianilbrown3GO,13oz.DianilbrownR,13
oz.DianilbrownBD,1lb.sodaand20lb.salt,fixingwith3lb.coppersulphate
and1lb.aceticacid.
Brown.Dyewith2lb.ChrysophenineG,1lb.DiaminebrownG,1lb.
ChicagoblueRW,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssaltfixwith3lb.sulphateof
NutBrown.Dyewith3lb.Chromanilbrown2G,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
saltfixwith1lb.bichromateofpotash,3lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.acetic
acid.
DarkGrey.Dyeattheboilforonehourwith1lb.ZambesiblackF,3lb.soda
and10lb.Glauber'ssaltfixinafreshboilingbathwith3lb.sulphateofcopper,1
lb.bichromateofpotashand10lb.Glauber'ssalt.
DarkGrey.Dyewith3lb.Chromanilblack4RF,3lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber's
saltfixwith1lb.bichromateofpotash,3lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.acetic
acid.
[Pg120]
DarkGrey.Useinthedyebath1lb.DiamineblueRW,lb.DiamineorangeB,
lb.DiaminenewblueR,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,fixingwith4lb.
PaleGreenishGrey.Dyewithoz.DiamineorangeB,3oz.DiamineblueRW,
lb.soda,2lb.soapand5lb.Glauber'ssalt,fixingwith1lb.sulphateofcopper
andlb.aceticacid.
SlateBlue.Dyewithlb.DiaminedarkblueB,2oz.DiaminenewblueR,1lb.
sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssaltfixwith2lb.sulphateofcopperand1lb.aceticacid.
Grey.Preparethedyebathwith2lb.Crossdyeblack2B,5lb.sodaash,15lb.
commonsaltafterrinsingleavethecottonintheairtoageovernight,rinseagain
andworkforhalftothreequartersofanhouratfrom150to160F.inabath
containing5lb.bichromateofpotashand5lb.sulphuricacid,thenthoroughlyrinse
anddry.
71/253
12/9/2014
DarkGrey.Dyewith1lb.DiaminejetblackCr,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber's
salt,fixingwith1lb.bichromateofpotashandlb.aceticacid.
GreenGrey.Dyewith1lb.DiaminedarkblueB,2oz.DiamineorangeB,4oz.
DiaminefastyellowB,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,fixingwith3lb.
Grey.Dyewith4oz.DianilblackN,1lb.sodaand10lb.salt,fixingwith1lb.
coppersulphateandlb.aceticacid.
Black.Preparethedyebathwith5lb.DiaminejetblackRB,1lb.Diamine
darkblueB,20lb.Glauber'ssaltdyeattheboilforonehour,rinseandthentreat
thegoodssimmeringfortwentyminuteswith4lb.bichromateofpotash.
Black.Preparethedyebathwith8lb.ChromanilblackRFand20lb.Glauber's
saltdyeattheboilforonehour,thentreatboilinghotforaboutthirtyminutesina
freshbathwith1lb.bichromateofpotashand3lb.sulphateofcopper.Add6lb.
onlyofthedyestufftothebathforasecondbatch.
[Pg121]
Black.Use5lb.DianilblackN,5lb.sodaand20lb.saltthenfixwith3lb.
coppersulphate,3lb.bichromateofpotashand2lb.aceticacid.
Black.Useinthedyebath5lb.DianilblackCR.3lb.causticsoda,36Tw.and
20lb.salt,fixingwith3lb.coppersulphate,3lb.bichromateofpotashand2lb.
aceticacid.
JetBlack.Dyewith5lb.DiaminejetblackCr,1lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
salt,fixingwith4lb.bichromateofpotashand2lb.aceticacid.
Itwillbeconvenientheretodealwithasmallbutgrowingandimportantclassof
dyestuffswhichcontainsulphurintheircomposition,andwhich,therefore,are
named:
SulphurorSulphylColours.
TheoriginaltypeofthisgroupisCachoudelaval,sentoutagoodmanyyearsago,
butoflateyearsVidalblack,St.Dennisblack,Crossdyeblacksanddrab,
Immedialblacks,bluesandbrowns,Amidazolblacks,brownsandolives,
Sulfanilineblackandbrown,Katigenblacks,greensandbrowns,etc.,havebeen
added,andthegroupislikelytobecomeaverynumerousoneinthefuture.
Allthesecoloursaredyedontothecottonorlinenfrombathscontainingsodaand
salt,whilesomerequiretheadditionofsodiumsulphideorcausticsodainorderto
havethedyestuffproperlydissolved.Theyareveryweakdyescomparedwiththe
directcolours,andrequirefrom20to60percent.toproducefullshades,although
ofthisfullyonethirdremainsinthebathunabsorbedbythecotton.Itis,therefore,
importantinordertoworkaseconomicallyaspossibletoretainthebath,bringingit
[Pg122]
uptostrengthbytheadditionoffreshdyestuffs,etc.
Mostofthedyesrequirethedyedgoodstopassthroughasecondbathofsome
reagent,bichromateofpotash,sulphateofcopper,etc.,inordertofullydevelopand
fixthedyeonthefabric.
Thebestmethodofusingthevariousdyesofthisgroupwillbegivenintheformof
formul.Twopointsofimportancearetouseasstrongadyeliquoraspossible,
andtoexposethecottonaslittleaspossibletotheairduringthedyeingoperation.
Thedyestuffswhenexposedtotheairreadilybecomeoxidised,andarethereby
convertedintoinsolubleproductswhichbecomefixedonthefibreinalooseform,
72/253
12/9/2014
andinthatcasethedyedfibrerubsratherbadly.
PaleBrown.Prepareadyebathwith15lb.Cachoudelaval,10lb.ofsoda,and
10lb.salt.Thebathisnotexhaustedofcolouringmatter,andbyaddingonehalfof
theabovequantitiesofdyestuffandsaltmaybeusedagainforanotherlotof
cotton.Afterthedyeingthecottonispassedintoafixingbathof2lb.bichromate
ofpotashand1lb.aceticacid,workingat180F.tentofifteenminutes.
Black.Preparethedyebathwith200gallonsofwater,10lb.soda,10lb.sulphide
ofsodium,60lb.saltand16lb.ImmedialblackVextra.Workattheboilforone
hour,keepingthecottonwellunderthesurfaceduringtheoperation,inthecaseof
yarnsthisiseffectedbyusingbentironrodsonwhichtohangthehanksinthevat,
inthecaseofpiecesbyworkingwithvatstheguiderollersofwhicharebelowthe
surfaceofthedyeliquor.Afterthedyeingtheyarnorpiecesaresqueezed,well
rinsedinwater,thenpassedintothefixingbath,whichcontains2lb.sulphateof
copper,2lb.bichromateofpotashand3lb.ofaceticacid,forhalfanhourat170
to180F.Bichromateofpotashusedalonegivesareddishshadeofblack,sulphate
ofcopperagreenishshade,amixtureofthetwogivesagreenishshade.
TherearethreebrandsofImmedialblack,viz.,Vextra,GextraandFF,whichvary [Pg123]
alittleinthetoneofblacktheyproduce.Themethodofusingisidenticalforall
three.Thedyebathisnotexhaustedofcolourandsoshouldbekeptstanding,for
eachsubsequentlotofcottonadd8lb.Immedialblackand3lb.sulphideofsoda,
andtoevery10gallonsofwateraddedtobringthebathuptovolumelb.soda
and3lb.salt.
Theseblacksareveryfasttowashing,light,etc.Byusingsmallerquantitiesofdye
stuffgoodgreyscanbedyed.
Black.Preparethedyebathwith10lb.soda,10lb.sulphideofsodium,60lb.salt
and25lb.Vidalblack,workattheboilforonehour,thenrinseandfixwith3lb
bichromateofpotashand2lb.sulphuricacid.
Black.Preparethedyebathwith30lb.CrossdyeblackB,10lb.soda,150lb.
salt.Dissolvethedyestuffinboilingwater,thenaddthesodacrystalsandfinally
thesalt.Enterthepreviouslywellboiledcottonatabout175F.Afterafewturns
raisethetemperaturetotheboilasquicklyaspossible,andworkforonehour(just
attheboil).Liftandthoroughlyrinsewithoutdelay.(Thebetterthecottonis
washedtheclearertheultimateshade.)Afterwashing,wringupandletairagefor
aboutonehourtheintensityoftheblackistherebyincreased.
Meanwhileprepareabathwith5lb.bichromateofpotash,4lb.sulphuricacid
(168Tw.).Enterat150to160F.,andworkatthisforabouttenminutes.After
chroming,washthoroughlytoremovealltracesofacid.Atthisstage,theusual
softeningmaytakeplaceifdesirable,andfinallydryatalowtemperature.
Thebathiskeptupforfurtherlots,andthreefourthsthequantityofcolouring
matter,andabouthalfsodaandonefourthsaltareused.Wood,orironcisternsare
mostsuitable,andcopperpansorpipesmustbeavoided.
Thedyebathshouldbekeptasshortaspossible,abouttwelvetofifteentimesthe
amountofwaterontheweightofcottonisadvisable.Thecottonwheninthedye
bathshouldbeexposedaslittleaspossibletotheair.
[Pg124]
ThereareseveralbrandsoftheseCrossdyeblacksvaryinginthetoneofblackthey
give.
Black.Preparethedyebathwith5lb.sodaash,200lb.saltand20lb.Amidazol
73/253
12/9/2014
blackG,thisisheatedto150F.,thecottonisentered,theheatraisedtotheboil,
andthedyeingdoneforanhouratthatheat.Lift,rinsewell,thenpassintoa
chromingbath,madefrom5lb.bichromateofpotashand3lb.sulphuricacid,used
at160F.fortwentyminutes,thenlift,washwellanddry.Thebathmaybekept
standingandusedforotherlotsofcottonbyreplenishingwithabouttwothirdsof
theoriginalweightofdyestuffandalittlesoda.Therearefourbrandsofthese
AmidazolblackswhichdyefromajetblackwiththeGtoadeepblueblackwith
the6Gbrand.TheG,2G,and4G,usedinsmallquantities,2to3lb.,dyegood
greysofabluishtone,the6Ggivesadullblue,the4Gand6G,usedinthe
proportionsof7to10percent.,givedarkblues.
Alltheseblacksmaybecombinedwithanilineblackwithgoodresultsasshownin
thefollowingrecipe:
Black.Preparethedyebathwith10lb.Amidazolblack2G,5lb.sodaand100
lb.salt.Workattheboilforanhour,thenrinse,passintoacoldbathmadefrom2
lb.anilineoil,2lb.hydrochloricacid,6lb.sulphuricacid,7lb.bichromateof
potash,and5lb.perchlorideofiron,66Tw.Thisisusedcoldforanhour,then
theheatisslowlyraisedto160F.,whentheoperationisfinished,andthecottonis
takenoutwellrinsedandfinishedasusual.Anyofthisclassofblackmaybeso
toppedwithanilineblackifthoughtnecessaryAveryfastblackisthusgot.
Black.Makethedyebathwith15lb.SulfanilineblackG,60lb.salt,10lb.soda,
and5lb.sulphideofsodium.Workatalittleundertheboil,thenlift,rinsewelland
passintoahotbathof3lb.bichromateofpotash,3lb.sulphateofcopper,and4lb.
aceticacidforhalfanhour,thenlift,rinsewellanddry.
[Pg125]
Ithasbeenobservedinthepracticalapplicationonalargescaleofthesesulphur
blacksthatthecottonisliabletobecometenderedonbeingstored,althoughthere
arefewsignsofsuchafterthedyeingisfinished.Theexactcauseofthisis
somewhatuncertain,themostprobablereasonisthatduringtheprocessofdyeinga
depositofsulphurinafinestateofdivisionhasbeenthrowndownonthecottonby
decompositionofthedyestuff,andthatthissulphurhasintimebecomeoxidisedto
sulphuricacidwhichthenexertsitswellknowntenderingactiononthecotton.
Theremedyforthisevilliespartlywiththedyemanufacturerandchieflywiththe
dyer.Thedyemanufacturershouldseethathisproductismadeasfreefrom
sulphuraspossible,whilethedyerbycarefulattentiontothoroughwashing,
thoroughfixationinthechrome,etc.baths,tendstoeliminateallsulphurfromthe
goods,andsopreventallpossibilityofthecottonbecomingaffected.
Blue.Makethedyebathwith22lb.ImmedialblueC,13lb.sulphideofsodium,
50lb.saltand15lb.causticsodalyeat70Tw.Workatjustundertheboilforone
hour,keepingthegoodswellunderthesurfaceoftheliquor.Afterthedyeingthe
goodsarewellrinsedinthewaterandthenpassedintoavatwhichcontains1lb.
peroxideofsodiumand1lb.sulphuricacid.Thisisstartedcold,afteraboutfifteen
minutesheatslowlytoabout150,workfortwentyminutes,thenlift,washand
dry.Forsubsequentlotsofcottonthereonlyneedbeused7lb.ImmedialblueC.2
lb.sulphideofsodium,3lb.saltand1lb.causticsodalyeat70Tw.Theblue
mayalsobedevelopedbysteamingwithairinasuitablechestorsteaming
chamber.Bytoppingwithlb.NewmethyleneblueN,verybrightblueshades
canbedyed.
[Pg126]
DarkNavy.Preparethedyebathwith25lb.ImmedialblueC,24lb.sulphideof
sodium,35lb.commonsaltand12lb.causticsodalye,workingattheboilforone
hour,thenrinseanddevelopinabathmadefrom2lb.peroxideofsodiumand
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12/9/2014
2lb.sulphuricacid,startedcold,thenaftertwentyminutesheatedto160F.,
twentyminuteslongeratthatheatwillbesufficient.Forsecondandsubsequentlots
ofcottonthereisaddedtotheoldbath15lb.ImmedialblueC,4lb.sulphideof
sodium,5lb.saltand2lb.causticsodalyeof70Tw.
Blue.Apalebutnotverybrightshadeofblueisdyedinabathof3lb.Amidazol
black6G,5lb.sodaand25lb.salt.Afterworkingforonehourattheboil,lift,
rinseandpassintoabathwhichcontains2lb.peroxideofsodiumand2lb.
sulphuricacidthisisstartedcold,thenheatedto150F.,andkeptatthatheatfor
twentyminutes,whenthecottonistakenout,wellwashedanddried.
DeepBlue.Dyewith20lb.Amidazolblack6G,5lb.sodaand200lb.salt
developwith2lb.peroxideofsodiumand2lb.sulphuricacid,workingasnoted
above.
DarkDrab.Preparethedyebathwith20lb.Crossdyedrab,5lb.sodacrystals
and80lb.salt,workattheboilforanhour,thenlift,washwellanddrythiscanbe
chromedifdesired.
Brown.Dyewith20lb.Amidazolcutch,5lb.sodaashand150lb.salt,working
attheboilforonehour,thenlift,washthoroughlyanddry.Byaftertreatmentina
bathof3lb.potassiumbichromateand3lb.sulphuricacidthecolourismadefast
towashing.Theshadeisnotaltered.
Buff.Dyewith2lb.Amidazolcutch,5lb.sodaand25lb.salt,workingatthe
boilforonehour,thenlift,washanddry.
[Pg127]
PaleSeaGreen.Dyewith4lb.AmidazolgreenY,5lb.sodaand25lb.salt,
workingattheboilforonehour,thenlift,washwellanddry.
DarkGreen.Dyewith20lb.AmidazolgreenB,5lb.sodaand20lb.saltworkat
theboilforonehour,thenlift,washthoroughlyanddry.
DarkBrown.Dyewith20lb.Amidazolcachou,5lb.sodaand200lb.salt,
workingforanhourattheboil,thenlift,rinsewellandpassintoachromebathof4
lb.potassiumbichromateand3lb.sulphuricacidat50F.forhalfanhour,then
washwellanddry.
DarkSage.Dyewith20lb.Amidazoldrab,5lb.sodaashand150lb.saltforan
hourattheboil,thenliftandchromewith4lb.potassiumbichromateand8lb.
sulphuricacidforthirtyminutesat150F.,washingwellafterwards.
AlltheAmidazoldyesareveryfasttowashing,acids,etc.Theycanbetreatedwith
sulphateofcopperorperoxideofsodiumwhentheyproducegoodshades.They
mayevenbediazotisedanddevelopedwithbetanaphtholandphenylenediamine.
Thepaletintsgotbyusingfrom2to4percent.ofdyestuffareusefulones,asalso
arethemediumshadeswith10percent.ofdyestuff.
Brown.Preparethedyebathwith10lb.Sulfanilinebrown4B,50lb.salt,10lb.
sodaand5lbsulphideofsodiumworkattheboilforonehour,thenlift,washand
treatinafreshbathwith3lb.potassiumbichromateand2lb.aceticacidat160F.
forhalfanhour,thenwashwellanddry.
Olive.Dyewith10lb.KatigenoliveG,50lb.salt,10lb.sodaand6lb.sulphide
ofsodiumworkforonehourattheboil,thenlift,washandtreatinafreshbath
with2lb.bichromateofpotash,2lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.aceticacidfor
halfanhourattheboil,thenwash.
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DarkOlive.Dyewith20lb.KatigenoliveG,50lb.salt,10lb.soda,and6lb.
sulphideofsodium,workingattheboilforonehour,thenlift,washanddry.By
chromingadarkerandfasteroliveisgot.
[Pg128]
Brown.Dyewith20lb.Katigendarkbrown,50lb.salt,10lb.sodaand6lb.
sulphideofsodiumattheboilforonehour,thentreatinafreshbathwith2lb.
bichromateofpotash,2lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.aceticacidforhalfanhour
attheboil,thenwashwell.
PaleBrown.Dyewith8lb.ImmedialbronzeA,2lb.soda,2lb.sulphideof
sodiumand10lb.Glauber'ssaltattheboilforonehour,thenlift,rinseandpass
intoafreshbathcontaining1lb.bichromateofpotashand2lb.aceticacidat150
F.forhalfanhour,thenlift,washanddry.
DarkBrown.Dyewith12lb.ImmedialbrownB,5lb.sulphideofsodium,5lb.
sodaand20lb.saltattheboilforonehour,thenliftandtreatinafreshbathwith2
lb.bichromateofpotash,2lb.sulphateofcopperand2lb.aceticacid.
TheImmedialblacks,blue,bronzeandbrowndyeveryfastshades,standing
soaping,acidsandlight.Theymaybecombinedtogethertoproduceagreatrange
ofshadesofblue,brown,green,grey,etc.
Theseexampleswillperhapssufficetoshowhowthisnewbutimportantclassof
sulphylcoloursareappliedtothedyeingofcotton.Theymaybetoppedwith
anilineblack,indigo,basicdyes,orcombinedwithsuchdirectdyesasproduce
shadesfasttochromingtoformaverygreatrangeofshadeswhichhavethemerit
offastness.
(3)DIRECTDYEINGFOLLOWEDBYFIXATIONWITHDEVELOPERS.
Alargenumberofthedyespreparedfromcoaltararecalledazocolours,suchfor
instancearetheBiebrichandCroceinescarletsandoranges,Naphtholblack,Congo
[Pg129]
red,etc.,justtonameafew.Thepreparationoftheseisaboutthesimplest
operationofcolourchemistry,andconsistsintakingasthebaseanamido
compoundasthechemistcallssuch.Theseamidocompounds,ofwhichaniline,
toluidine,benzidine,naphthylaminearefamiliarexamples,arecharacterisedby
containingthemoleculargroupNH2,whichradicleisbuiltupofthetwoelements
nitrogenandhydrogen.Allcompoundswhichcontainthisgrouparebasicin
characterandcombinewithacidstoformwelldefinedsalts.Whentheseamido
bodiesaretreatedwithsodiumnitriteandhydrochloricacidtheyundergoa
chemicalchange,thefeatureofwhichisthatthenitrogenatomspresentinthe
amidocompoundandinthenitriteunitetogetherandanewcompoundisproduced
whichiscalledadiazocompound,andtheoperationiscalled"diazotisation".
Forexamplewhenparanitroanilineissubjectedtothisreactionitundergoesa
changeindicatedinthechemicalequation:
C6H4NO2NH2,+NaNO2,+2HCl=Paranitroaniline,Sodiumnitrite,Hydrochloric
acid.
C6H4NO2N:NCl+NaCl+2H20=ParanitrobenzeneSodiumchloride,Water,
diazochloride.
Theabove,putintowords,meansthatwhenparanitroanilineisdissolvedwith
hydrochloricacidandtreatedwithnitriteofsodaitformsdiazonitrobenzene
chloride,sodiumchlorideandwater.Nowthediazocompoundsareratherunstable
bodies,buttheyhaveagreataffinityforothercompounds,suchasnaphthol,
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phenylenediamine,phenol,andcombineeasilywiththemwhenbroughtinto
contactwiththem.Thenewcompoundsthusmadeformthedyestuffsof
commerce.
Theazodyescontainthecharacteristicgroupoftwonitrogenatomsshowninthe
formulaN:N.Indealingwiththeproductionofcoloursdirectonthefibrethis
subjectwillbeelaboratedmorefully.
[Pg130]
Nowmanyofthedirectdyes,Diamineblacks,Diaminecutch,Primuline,Diazo
brown,Zambesiblues,browns,etc.,containamidogroups,byreasonofhaving
beenmadefromsuchbodiesasphenylenediamine,amidonaphthol,toluidine,etc.,
andithasbeenfoundthatwhendyedonthefibretheyarecapableofbeing
diazotisedbypassingthedyedfibreintoabathofsodiumnitriteacidifiedwith
hydrochloricacid,andifthentheyareplacedintoabathcontainingsuchabodyas
betanaphthol,phenylenediamine,etc.,newcompoundsordyesareproduced,
whicharecharacterisedbybeinginsolubleinwater,andthereforeasformedonthe
fibreinthemannerindicatedareveryfasttowashing,soapingandsimilaragencies.
Oftenthenewordevelopeddyeformedonthefibrediffersmarkedlyincolour
fromtheoriginaldye.Perhapsinnocaseisthismorestronglyshownthanwith
Primuline.Theoriginalcolourisagreenishyellow,butbyusingvarious
developers,astheyarecalled,agreatvarietyofshadecanbegot,asshowninthis
table.
Developer.Colourproduced.
BetanaphtholBrightscarlet.AlphanaphtholCrimson.PhenylenediamineBrown.
PhenolGoldyellow.ResorcineOrange.NaphthylamineetherBlue.Bluedeveloper
ANGreen.
Asregardsthedyeingoperation,itnowaydiffersfromthatdescribedforsimple
directcolours.Itshould,however,benotedthatifgoodresultsarerequiredfull
shadesmustbedyed.Thecottonmustberinsedincoldwater,andbequitecold
beforeitissubjectedtothediazotisingoperation.Diazotisingisasimpleoperation,
yetitmustbecarriedoutwithcareifgoodresultsaredesired.Itconsistsessentially
intheuseofanacidulatedbathofsodiumnitrite.
[Pg131]
Tomakethebathfordiazotisingthereistaken(foreach100lb.ofgoods)sufficient
watertohandlethemincomfortably,8lb.ofsodiumnitriteand6lb.hydrochloric
acid.Thisbathmustbequitecoldotherwiseitdoesnotworkwell.Thegoodsare
handledinthisforfromfifteentotwentyminutes,whentheyarereadyforthenext
operation.Thebathisnotexhaustedofnitrite,etc.,henceitcanbekeptstanding,
andforeachsucceedinglotofcottonitisstrengthenedupbyaddingonethirdof
thequantitiesofnitriteandacidoriginallyused.Ofcoursethebathcannotbekept
forever,soonerorlateritwillgetdirty,andthenitmustbethrownawayandanew
bathbemadeup.
Thediazocompoundsformedonthefibrearenotverystablebodies.They
decomposeonbeingexposedforanygreatlengthoftimetotheair,whilelighthas
astrongactiononmost,ifnotallofthemhenceitfollowsthatthediazotising
processshouldnotbecarriedoutinaroomwheredirect,strongsunlightcanenter
orfalluponthegoods.Thenagain,afterdiazotising,thetreatedgoodsshouldnot
beallowedtolieaboutexposedtoairandlight,buttheoperationofdeveloping
shouldbeproceededwithatonce,otherwisethediazobodywilldecompose,and
weakanddefectivecoloursareliabletobeobtainedonsubsequentdevelopment.
Fordeveloping,quitealargenumberofsubstancesareused.Someoftheseare
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regulararticlesofcommerce,othersarethespecialproductionsofcertainfirms,
whoadvisetheirusewiththedyesthattheyalsomanufacture.Theselatteraresent
outundersuchdesignationsasDeveloperB,DeveloperAN,orFastblue
developer.ThosemostinusearebetanaphtholforredfromPrimuline,andfor
bluishblacksfromDiamineblacks,Diazoblacks,Zambesiblacks,etc.fordark
bluesfromDiamineblues,Diazoblues,etc.forgreysfromDiamineblues,Neutral
grey,etc.AlphanaphtholfordarkredsfromPrimuline,greysfromDiamineblues,
Neutralgrey,etc.PhenylenediamineforblacksfromDiamineblacks,Diazo
blacks,Zambesiblacks,Triamineblacks,etc.fordarkbrownsfromDiamine
browns,Diazobrowns,etc.forlightbrownsfromCottonbrowns,Diaminecutch,
Primuline,etc.NaphthylamineetherforbluesfromDiamineblacks,etc.Phenolfor
claretfromDiaminecutch,andforgoldyellowfromPrimuline,etc.Resorcinefor
orangefromPrimuline,etc.SodaforbrownsfromDiaminecutch,Diazobrowns,
Zambesibrowns,fororangefromDiamineorange,andyellowfromPrimuline.
[Pg132]
Betanaphthol.Thisisbyfarthemostimportantofthedevelopers.Itisawhite
body,insolubleinwater,butreadilysolubleinsodalye,andasolutioniseasily
madebytaking10lb.betanaphtholandheatingitwith10lb.causticsodalyeof
70Tw.and60gallonsofwater.Thisbathmaybeusedasthedevelopingbath,or
itmaybedilutedwithmorewater.Itisnotdesirabletouseanymorecausticsoda
thanisnecessarytodissolvethebetanaphthol,sothatthebathisnottooalkaline.
Toproducefullshadesitusuallytakes1percent.oftheweightofthecottonofthe
betanaphthol,butitisbesttousethebathasacontinuousoneandforthefirstlot
ofcottonuse2percent.ofnaphthol,whileforeachsucceedinglotonly1percent.
morenaphtholneedbeaddedtothesamebath.
Thisbathisalkaline,whilethediazotisingbathisacid,unless,therefore,thecotton
bewellwashedwhenitistakenfromthelatterbaththereisariskofthealkaliof
theonebeingneutralisedbytheacidityoftheother,andthenaphtholbeingthrown
outinaninsolubleform.This,ofcourse,iseasilyremediedshoulditoccur.
[Pg133]
DeveloperA(Bayer)isamixtureofbetanaphtholandcausticsodainthepowder
form,sothatasolutionisobtainedbysimplyaddingwater.Rathermore(about1
percent.)ofthisisrequiredthanofbetanaphthol.
Alphanaphtholhassimilarpropertiesto,andisusedinthesamewayas,beta
naphtholitdevelopsmuchdarkerandratherdullercolours,whicharelessfastto
washing.
Resorcine,likenaphthol,isinsolubleinwater,butitcanbedissolvedbyusing
eithersodaashorcausticsoda.Thelatterispreferable,astheformerisliableto
giveadevelopingbaththatfrothsinworking,especiallyifmuchacidhasbeenleft
inthecottonfromthediazotisingbath.Theproportionsare:10lb.resorcine,25lb.
causticsodalyeof70Tw.,and60gallonsofwateror10lb.resorcine,20lb.soda
ash,and60gallonsofwater,heateduntilasolutionisobtained.Inthedeveloping
bath1percent.ofresorcineisusuallysufficienttouse.Itdevelopsanorangewith
Primuline.
DeveloperF(Bayer)isamixtureofresorcineandsodaash.Itrequires1percent,
tomakeadevelopingbath.
Phenol,betterknownascarbolicacid,findsauseasadeveloper.Itisdissolvedin
causticsoda,10lb.phenol,15lb.causticsodalyeof70Tw.,and60gallonsof
water.Generally1percent.issufficienttouseasadeveloper.Itisoftencalled
yellowdeveloper.
Naphthylamineetherisusedasadeveloperforbluesinconjunctionwiththe
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Diamineblacks.Itispreparedforusebydissolvinginhydrochloricacid,10lb.
naphthylamineetherpowderheatedwith5lb.hydrochloricacidand50gallons
water.About1percent.isrequiredtoformadevelopingbath.Naphthylamine
etherisalsosentoutintheformofapastemixedwithacid,andcontainingabout
25percent.oftheactualdeveloper.
FastbluedeveloperAD(Cassella),isamidodiphenylamine.Itisinsolublein
water,butsolubleindiluteacid,10lb.fastbluedeveloperAD,5lb.hydrochloric
acidand35gallonsofwatermakingthebath.Todevelopfullshades1to1per
cent,isrequired.
[Pg134]
BluedeveloperAN(Cassella).Thebaseofthisisinsolubleinwater,butdissolves
insoda,andisprobablyanaphtholsulphoacid.Theproduct,asmetwithinthe
market,issolubleinwater,and27lb.dissolvedin20gallonsofwaterformthe
bath.Toproducefullshades1percent,isusuallyrequired.
Phenylenediamineisamostimportantdeveloper.Itcomesintothemarketintwo
forms,asapowder,verynearlypure,madeintoasolutionbydissolving10lb.with
20gallonsofwaterand5lb.hydrochloricacid,andasasolutionpreparedreadyfor
use.DeveloperC(Bayer)anddeveloperE(Bayer)arepreparationsofdiamine,the
formerinapowder,thelatterinasolution.Phenylenediaminecanbeusedwiththe
additiontothedevelopingbathofaceticacidorsoda.
Schaeffer'sacidisasulphoacidofbetanaphthol,andisdissolvedbytaking10lb.
oftheacidand7lb.soda,boilingwith50gallonsofwater.About1percent.is
requiredfordevelopingfullshades.
DeveloperB(Bayer)isethylbetanaphthylamine,intheformofitshydrochloric
acidcompound.Thebathismadefrom10lb.ofthedeveloperand50gallonsof
water,1percent.beingusedtoobtainfullshades.
DeveloperD(Bayer)isdioxynaphthalenesulphoacid,andsimplyrequires
dissolvinginwatertomakethebath.
Toluylenediamineisahomologueofphenylenediamineandisusedinprecisely
thesameway.
Generallythespecialdevelopersissuedbythevariouscolourfirmssimplyrequire
dissolvinginwatertoformthedevelopingbath.
[Pg135]
Thecotton,previouslybeingpassedthroughthediazotisingbath,isthenruninto
thedevelopingbath,inwhichitiskeptforfromtwentytothirtyminutesoruntilthe
requiredshadeisfullydeveloped,afterwhichitistakenout,rinsedanddried.The
methodofworkingisthesameforallthedevelopers,andmaybecarriedoutinany
kindofvessels.Asisindicatedabove,thedevelopingbathsmaybekeptstanding
andbefreshenedupasrequiredtheyareusedcold.Sometimestwodevelopersare
mixedtogether,inwhichcasecareshouldbetakenthatanalkalinedeveloper
naphtholorphenolbenotmixedwithanaciddeveloper(phenylenediamine,
naphthylamine,etc.),unlesstheacidityofthelatterhasbeenneutralisedwithsoda
otherwisethedevelopermightbethrownoutofthebathinaninsolubleandhence
uselessform.
Theadvantagesofthediazotisinganddevelopingprocessjustdescribedmaybe
summedaseasyandquickworking,superiorfastnesstowashing,soapingand
milling,increasedfastnesstolightandsoftnessofthedyedfibre.
Scarlet.Dyewith3lb.Primulineand20lb.salt,attheboilforonehour,diazotise
anddevelopwithbetanaphthol.
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Crimson.Dyewith3lb.Primulineand20lb.salt,thendiazotiseanddevelopwith
alphanaphthol.
RedBrown.Dyewith4lb.Primulineand20lb.salt,thendiazotiseanddevelop
withphenylenediamine.
DeepOrange.Dyewith3lb.Primulineand20lb.salt,thendiazotiseanddevelop
withresorcine.
PaleOrange.Dyewith3lb.Primulineand20lb.salt,thendiazotiseanddevelop
withphenol.
SageBrown.Dyewith6lb.Primuline,3lb.Titaningrainblueand20lb.salt,
thendiazotiseanddevelopwithresorcine.
DarkMaroon.Dyewith6lb.Primuline,3lb.Titaningrainblueand20lb.salt,
thendiazotiseanddevelopwithbetanaphthol.
[Pg136]
DarkCrimson.Dyewith5lb.Primuline,lb.Titaningrainblueand20lb.
salt,thendiazotiseanddevelopwithbetanaphthol.
DarkBlue.Dyewith3lb.ZambesiblueBX,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
thendiazotiseanddevelopwithamidonaphtholether.
DarkBrown.Dyewith8lb.Zambesibrown2G,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
salt,thendiazotiseanddevelopwithtoluylenediamine.
BlueBlack.Dyewith4lb.ZambesiblueBX,2lb.ZambesiblackD,2lb.soda
and20lb.salt,thendiazotiseanddevelopwithlb.toluylenediamineandlb.
betanaphthol.
Red.Dyewith4lb.Primuline,lb.DiaminefastyellowAand20lb.salt,then
diazotiseanddevelopwithbetanaphthol.
DarkBrown.Dyewith4lb.Primuline,1lb.DiamineazoblueRR,and20lb.
salt,thendiazotiseanddevelopwithbetanapthol.
DeepChestnutBrown.Dyewith5lb.Diaminecutch,1lb.sodaand20lb.
Glauber'ssalt,thendiazotiseanddevelopbypassingfortwentyminutesina
boilingbathofsoda.
DarkBrown.Dyewith4lb.Diaminecutch,1lb.DiamineblackBH,2lb.soda
and20lb.Glauber'ssalt,thendiazotiseanddevelopwithphenol.
BlackBrown.Dyewith1lb.DiaminebrownM,1lb.Primuline,1oz.Diamine
blackBH,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,thendiazotiseanddevelopwith
phenylenediamine.
Blue.Dyewith2lb.DiaminogeneblueBB,lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
thendiazotiseanddevelopwithbetanaphthol.Adarkblueisgotbyusing8lb.of
DiaminogeneblueBBinthesameway.
DarkBlue.Preparethedyebathwith1lb.DiaminogeneblueBB,11/10lb.
DiamineazoblueRR,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.Dyeattheboilforone
hour,rinseslightlyincoldwater,thenenterintoafreshcoldbathpreparedwith4
lbnitriteofsodapreviouslydissolvedinwater,and12lb.hydrochloricacid.For
subsequentlotsinthesamebathonethirdoftheseadditionsissufficient.After
diazotisingrinsethegoodsinabathweaklyacidulatedwithhydrochloricor
sulphuricacid,andthenimmediatelydevelopwithbetanaphthol.
[Pg137]
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Black.Preparethedyebathwith3lb.TriamineblackB,15lb.Glauber'ssalt,in
fiftygallonsofwater.Dyeexactlyasintheprecedingrecipe.Washandrinsevery
thoroughlyafterlifting,thendiazotiseinabathofabout250gallonsofcoldwater,
towhichaddseparately2lb.sodiumnitritedissolvedinfivetimesitsbulkof
waterand8lb.hydrochloricaciddiluted.Enterthedampcottonandtreatitfor
abouthalfanhour.Lift,passthroughaweakacidbath,rinse,anddevelop
immediatelyinabathofabout250gallonsofcoldwater,containing1lb.developer
T,1lb.soda,previouslydissolvedtogetherinhotwater.Enterthedampgoods,
workwellforhalfanhour,thenlift,washanddry.
BlueBlack.Dyewith4lb.DiamineblackBH,2lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber's
salt,thendiazotiseanddevelopwithnaphthylamineether.
DarkNavy.Dyewith3lb.DiamineazoblueRR,2lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber's
LightChestnutBrown.Dyewith2lb.CottonbrownN,1lb.diaminefastyellow
A,1lb.sodaand10lb.salt,thendiazotiseanddevelopwithphenylenediamine.
DarkBrown.Dyewith5lb.Diaminecutch,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
thendiazotiseanddevelopwithfastbluedeveloperAD.
Black.Dyewith4lb.DiamineblackBH,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
diazotiseanddevelopwith2lb.resorcineand1lb.phenylenediamine.
[Pg138]
BlueBlack.Dyewith4lb.DiaminogeneB,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
Black.Dyewith4lb.DiaminogeneB,oz.DiaminefastyellowB,3lb.soda
and20lb.Glauber'ssalt,thendiazotiseanddevelopwith3lb.resorcineand1lb.
phenylenediamine.
LightBlue.Dyewith1lb.DiaminogeneblueBB,1lb.sodaand10lb.
Glauber'ssalt,thendiazotisedanddevelopwithbetanaphthol.
Maroon.Dyewith6lb.Primulineand20lb.salt,diazotiseanddevelopwithblue
developerAN.
OliveBrown.Dyewith5lb.Diaminecutch,3lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,
thendiazotiseanddevelopwithfastbluedeveloperAD.
GoldBrown.Dyewith1lb.CottonbrownN,lb.DiaminebronzeG,2lb.soda
and10lb.Glauber'ssalt,thendiazotiseanddevelopwithphenylenediamine.
WalnutBrown.Dyewith3lb.DiaminebrownM,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
Brown.Dyewith1lb.DiaminebrownM,1lb.DiaminefastyellowB,1lb.
cottonbrownN,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,thendiazotiseanddevelop
withphenylenediamine.
DarkPlum.Dyewith3lb.DiaminebrownV,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,
BlackBrown.Dyewith3lb.Diaminecutch,3lb.DiamineblackBH,8lb.soda
and20lb.Glauber'ssalt,thendiazotisedanddevelopwithphenylenediamine.
BlueBlack.Dyewith4lb.DiamineblackRO,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
[Pg139]
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BlueBlack.Dyewith4lb.DiamineblackRO,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
salt,thendiazotiseanddevelopwithnaphthylamineether.
BlueBlack.Dyewith5lb.DiamineblackBO,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
DarkBlue.Dyewith4lb.DiamineblackRO,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
thendiazotiseanddevelopwithbluedeveloperAN.
Black.Dyewith5lb.DiamineblackRO,1oz.DiaminebronzeG,3lb.sodaand
20lb.Glauber'ssalt,thendiazotiseanddevelopwithphenylenediamine.
TheDiamineblacksarearangeofveryusefuldyestuffs,andbytheirmeansalone
andinconjunctionwiththevariousdevelopersasseenintheexamplesgivenabove
arangeofusefulshadesofblue,navyblue,andblacksofeverytonecanbe
obtained.Itmayalsobeaddedthatmanyofthedirectdyes,althoughnot
diazotisable,arenotalteredbytheprocessandsomaybeusedalongwith
diazotisabledyesforthepurposeofshadingthem,andinthatwayagreatrangeof
shadescanbeproduced,particularlybycombiningPrimulinewithotherdyes.
(4)DIRECTDYEINGFOLLOWEDBYFIXATIONWITHCOUPLERS.
Afurtherdevelopmentintheapplicationofthedirectdyeshasoflateyearsbeen
made.Thisisatwobathmethod.Thecottonisdyedwithcertainofthedirectdyes:
Primuline,Diaminejetblacks,Diazoblacks,Toluyleneorangeandbrown,Diazo
brown,Diaminenitrazoldyes,Benzonitroldyes,etc.,intheusualway.Thenabath
ispreparedbydiazotisingparanitroaniline,benzidine,metanitraniline,dianisidine,
etc.,orbyusingthereadydiazotisedpreparationswhicharenowonthemarket,
[Pg140]
NitrazolC,AzophorredPN,AzophorbluePN,etc.,andimmersingthedyed
cottoninthisbath.Combinationtakesplacebetweenthedyeonthefibreandthe
diazocompoundinthisbath,andanewproductisproduceddirectonthefibre,
whichbeinginsolubleisveryresistanttowashingandsoaping.These"coupled"
shades,astheywillprobablycometobecalled,differfromthoseproducedonthe
fibrebytheoriginaldyestuff,thustheDiaminejetblacksandsomeoftheDiazo
blacksgive,withparanitroaniline,brownsofvariousshades.
Inthissectionalsomaybeconsideredthemethodofdyeingcottonbyusingthe
directcoloursintheordinaryway,andthen"topping,"asitiscalled,withabasic
dyeinafreshbath.
Practicallyinthe"couplingprocess"ofdyeingonlydiazotisedparanitroanilineis
usedasthecoupler,althoughotheramidobasesofasimilarnatureareavailable.
Whenparanitroanilineisusedasthesourceforthecouplingbathitiswellto
prepareastockbathofdiazotisedparanitroaniline,whichmaybedoneinthe
followingmanner:
Preparationofdiazotisedparanitroaniline.Take1lb.paranitroaniline,mix
with1gallonboilingwaterand1quarthydrochloricacid,stirwell,whenthe
paranitroanilinewilldissolvethesolutionmayifnecessarybeassistedbyalittle
heat.Nowadd1gallonsofcoldwater,andsetasidetocool,whenthe
hydrochlorideofparanitroanilinewillseparateoutintheformoffinecrystals
whenthemixtureisquitecold(itcannotbetoocold)thereisaddedlb.sodium
nitritedissolvedingalloncoldwater,stirwellforfifteentotwentyminutes,by
theendofwhichtimetheparanitroanilinewillhavebecomefullydiazotised,cold
waterisaddedtobringupthevolumeofthemixtureto10gallons.Thisstockbath
wellpreparedandkeptinacool,darkplacewillkeepgoodforthreetofourweeks.
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Thisbathcontains1lb.ofparanitroanilinein10gallons,anditisagoodruleto
allowlb.,or5gallonsofthisstockbathtoeachpoundofdyestuffusedin
dyeingthegroundcolourtobedevelopedup.
[Pg141]
Topreparethecouplingbaththereistaken5gallonsofthestockbath,1lb.sodium
acetatewithsufficientwaterforeach1lb.ofdyethathasbeenused.
Thisbathisusedcold,andthecottonisworkedinitforhalfanhour,thenitis
takenout,washedwellanddried.
NitrazolCisareadyprepareddiazotisedparanitroanilineinapowderformwhich
keepswellifstoredinadryplace.Themethodofusingistotake8lb.NitrazolC,
stirintoapastewithwaterandthenaddthispastetothecouplingbath,together
with2lb.sodaandlb.acetateofsoda.Thisbathisusedcoldandthedyedcotton
isimmersedinitforhalfanhour,thentakenout,wellwashedanddried.
ThequantityofNitrazolCgivenwillsufficeforallshadesdyedwithfrom2to4
percent,ofdyestuff,butwhenpalershadesaredyed,usinglessthansayper
cent.ofdyestuff,about4lb.NitrazolC,withthesodaandacetateofsodain
proportionatequantities,maybeused.
AzophorredPNisalsoapreparationofdiazotisedparanitroanilineintheformofa
drypowderwhichkeepswell.
Topreparethecouplingbaththereistaken2lb.ofAzophorredPN,whichis
dissolvedinwaterandaddedtothebathalongwith1lb.acetateofsoda.Thedyed
goodsareworkedinthecoldbathforhalfanhour,thentakenout,wellwashedand
dried.
Thequantitiesgivenaresufficientforshadesdyedwith2to4percent.ofdye
stuffforweakershadeshalfthequantitiesmaybetaken.
Benzonitroldeveloperissoldintheformofayellowpaste.Touseittake5lb.,stir
intoasmoothpastewithwater,thenaddtothecouplingbath.Thereisthenadded3 [Pg142]
pintsofhydrochloricacid,withsomestirring.Allowtostandforhalfanhour,add
1lb.acetateofsodaand6oz.soda,whenthebathisreadyforuse.Thecotton
isenteredandworkedforhalfanhour,thenliftedout,washedanddried.
Itmaybementionedthatsolutionsofthethreecouplersjustnamedmaybekeptfor
sometimewithoutdecomposition,butassoonassodaandacetateofsodaare
addedtheybegintodecomposeandthencannotbekeptmorethanafewhoursina
goodcondition.Itisagoodplanthereforenottoaddtheacetateofsodauntilthe
bathistobeused.
Anexcessofcouplerinthebathdoesnoharm,butadeficiencymayleadtopoor
andweakshadesbeingdeveloped.
Thefollowingrecipesshowthedyeswhichmaybeappliedbythismethodandgive
someideaofthecoloursthatcanbegot.Onlythedyestuffsaregiven.Anyofthe
abovecouplerscanbeusedwiththemasmaybemostconvenient.
Black.Dyewith5lb.BenzonitrolblackB,1lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
OliveGreen.Dyewith6lb.Primuline,3lb.Titaningrainblueand20lb.salt.
Black.Dyewith4lb.DianilblackCR,2lb.sodaand25lb.salt.
DarkBlue.Dyewith2lb.DianildarkblueR,1lb.Dianildarkblue3R,2lb.
sodaand25lb.salt.
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GoldBrown.Dyewith1lb.Primuline,8oz.DianilbrownRand20lb.salt.
Chestnut.Dyewith3lb.Primuline,lb.DianilbrownGO,1lb.Dianilbrown
E,1lb.sodaand20lb.salt.
DarkBrown.Dyewith1lb.Dianilbrown3GO,3lb.DianilbrownD,1lb.soda
and20lb.salt.
DarkGreen.Dyewith4lb.Primuline,1lb.DianilblackCR,1lb.sodaand20
lb.salt.
WalnutBrown.Dyewith1lb.Dianilbrown3GO,8oz.DianilbrownR,3lb.
DianilbrownBD,1lb.soda,and20lb.salt.
[Pg143]
LightGreen.Dyewith3lb.Primuline,8oz.DianilblueB,5oz.Dianildarkblue
R,1lb.soda,and20lb.salt.
OrangeYellow.Dyewith3lb.Primuline,1lb.Oxydianilyellow,and25lb.
salt.
Olive.Dyewith3lb.Primuline,8oz.Dianilbrown3GO,8oz.DianilblueB,
4oz.DianildarkblueR,1lb.soda,and25lb.salt.
BrightYellow.Dyewith2lb.Primuline,and20lb.salt.
GoldYellow.Dyewith2lb.DiaminefastyellowA,1lb.soda,and20lb.salt.
BrightWalnut.Dyewithlb.DiaminenitrazolbrownB,1lb.Oxydiamine
orangeR,1lb.soda,and20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
GoldBrown.Dyewithlb.DiaminenitrazolbrownG,1lb.Primuline,and20
lb.salt.
Green.Dyewith2lb.Primuline,1lb.DiaminenitrazolblackB,1lb.sodaand20
lb.salt.
PaleChestnut.Dyewith1lb.Primuline,lb.OxydiamineorangeRand20lb.
salt.
MossBrown,Dyewith2lb.Primuline,1lb.diaminejetblackOOand20lb.
salt.
Chocolate.Dyewith1lb.DiaminebrownV,2lb.DiaminenitrazolbrownRD,
2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
OliveBrown.Dyewith2lb.DiaminenitrazolbrownG,1lb.Diaminenitrazol
blackB,1lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
RussianGreen.Dyewith2lb.Diaminogeneextra,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
salt.
BronzeGreen.Dyewith2lb.DiaminegreyG,2lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
salt.
TerracottaBed.Dyewith2lb.OxydiamineorangeR,1lb.sodaand20lb.
Glauber'ssalt.
TerracottaBrown.Dyewith2lb.DiaminenitrazolbrownRD,1lb.sodaand20
[Pg144]
lb.Glauber'ssalt.
OliveGreen.Dyewith1lb.Primuline,2lb.DiaminebronzeG,1lb.sodaand20
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lb.Glauber'ssalt.
DarkGreen.Dyewith1lb.Primuline,2lb.DiaminenitrazolblackB,2lb.soda
and20lb.salt.
SageBrown.Dyewith1lb.Primuline,2lb.DiaminejetblackOO,1lb.soda
and20lb.salt.
BlackBrown.Dyewith1lb.DiaminebrownV,2lb.DiaminenitrazolblackB,2
DarkWalnut.Dyewith1lb.DiaminebrownV,2lb.OxydiamineorangeR,2lb.
PaleSage.Dyewith1lb.DiaminebrownV,2lb.Primuline,1lb.sodaand20lb.
salt.
Brown.Preparethedyebathwith3lb.DiaminejetblackOO,20lb.Glauber's
salt,2lb.soda.Dyeattheboilforonehour.
Brown.Preparethedyebathwithlb.BenzonitrolbrownG,20lb.Glauber's
salt,2lb.soda.Dyeforonehourattheboil.
DarkBrown.Preparethedyebathwith2lb.BenzonitroldarkbrownN,20lb.
Glauber'ssalt,2lb.soda.Dyeforonehourattheboil.
Brown.Preparethedyebathwith4lb.DirectfastbrownB,20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
2lb.soda.Dyeforonehourattheboil.
Brown.Preparethedyebathwith1lb.11oz.DiaminejetblackOO,2lb.Cotton
brownN,1lb.5oz.DiaminebrownV,20lb.Glauber'ssalt,2lb.soda.Dyeatthe
boilforonehour.
Brown.Preparethedyebathwith2lb.DiaminebronzeG,6oz.Cottonbrown
N,9oz.DiaminefastyellowA,20lb.Glauber'ssalt,2lb.soda.
Black.Preparethedyebathwith5lb.PlutoblackB,20lb.Glauber'ssalt,2lb.
soda.Dyeforonehourattheboil.
[Pg145]
SolidogenAisanewcouplerthathaslatterlybeenapplied.Itisasyrupyliquid,
andthecouplingbathismadebytakingfrom4lb.to6lb.oftheSolidogenA,and
1lb.to2lb.ofhydrochloricacid,inplaceofwhich3lb.to5lb.alummaybeused.
Thisbathisusedattheboil,thegoodsbeingtreatedforhalfanhour,thenwell
rinsedanddried.Itincreasesthefastnessofthecolourstowashingandsoaping.
Thefollowingrecipesshowitsapplication:
BrightBed.Dyewith3lb.Dianilred4B,2lb.soap,3lb.sodaand15lb.
Glauber'ssalt,thenfixwithSolidogenA.
Scarlet.Dyewith3lb.DianilscarletG,2lb.sodaand25lb.saltfixwith
SolidogenA.
Plum.Dyewith3lb.DianilclaretB,5lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,thenfix
withSolidogenA.
ToppingwithBasicDyes.Theshadesdyedwiththedirectdyesmaybe
materiallybrightenedandnewshadesproducedbytoppingwithanyofthebasic
dyes,whichareappliedinafreshwarmbath.Agreatvarietyofeffectsmaybethus
gotofwhichthefollowingrecipesgiveafewexamples:
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Green.Dyewith1lb.TitanyellowGand20lb.salttopwithlb.Brilliant
green.
Blue.Dyewith1lb.DiamineazoblueR,1lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
thentopwith2oz.NewMethyleneblueN.
BrightBlue.Dyewithlb.DiaminebrilliantblueG,1lb.sodaand10lb.
Glauber'ssalttopwith2oz.NewMethyleneblue3R.
Blue.Dyewith1lb.Diamineskyblue,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,and
topwith4oz.Brilliantgreen.
BoseLilac.Dyewith1oz.DiaminevioletN,1lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber's
salt,thentopwith2oz.Tanninheliotrope.
Green.Dyeattheboilforonehourwith2lb.BenzogreenGand10lb.Glauber's
salt,thentopinafreshbathwithlb.TurquoiseblueBB.
[Pg146]
Violet.Dyewith5oz.DiaminevioletN,2oz.DiaminebrilliantblueG,1lb.soda
and10lb.salt,andtopwith1oz.Methylviolet2B.
Plum.Dyewith1lb.OxydiaminevioletB,5oz.Diaminered10B,2lb.soda
and10lb.Glauber'ssalt,thentopwith1oz.MethylvioletR.
BrightGreen.Dyewith1lb.DiaminegreenG,1lb.OxydiamineyellowGG,
2lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,thentopwith2oz.Brilliantgreen.
Blue.Dyewith2lb.BenzoazurineG,3oz.BrilliantazurineB,1lb.sodaand20
lb.Glauber'ssalt,toppingwith6oz.TurquoiseblueGand3oz.NewVictoriablue
B.
DarkLilac.Dyewith3lb.HeliotropeBB,1lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
thentopwith1lb.MethylvioletR,andlb.Methylviolet3R.
Scarlet.Dyewith3lb.BrilliantCongoR,3lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber'ssalt,
thentopwith8oz.Safranine.
BrightGreen.Dyewith3lb.ChrysamineG,2lb.soapand10lb.phosphateof
soda,toppingwithlb.Malachitegreen.
BrightViolet.Dyewith1lb.Chicagoblue6B,1lb.sodaand20lb.Glauber's
salt,toppingwith10oz.MethylvioletB.
DarkGreen.Dyewith2lb.Columbiagreen,3lb.sodaand10lb.Glauber'ssalt,
toppingwith10oz.Malachitegreen.
Claret.Prepareadyebathwithoz.DiamineblackRO,2lb.Benzo
purpurine6B,10lb.Glauber'ssalt.Dyeattheboilforonehour,thenenterina
freshcoldbathoflb.SafranineG.Workfortwentyminutes,lift,washanddry.
SealBrown.Makeupadyebathwith2lb.BenzoazurineG,20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
Enteryarnat180F.,dyeattheboilforonehour,lift,wring,andenterintoafresh
bathof1lb.Bismarckbrown.Workforonehouratabout180F.,lift,rinsewell [Pg147]
anddry.
(5)DYEINGONTANNICMORDANT.
Theoldestgroupofcoaltardyesarethebasicdyes,ofwhichMagenta,Brilliant
green,Chrysoidine,Bismarckbrown,Auraminearetypicalrepresentatives.Fora
longtimethesedyeswereonlyusedfordyeingwoolandsilkforcotton,linen,and
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someothervegetablefibrestheyhavelittleornoaffinity,andhencecannotdye
themdirect.However,itwasfoundoutthatifthecottonbepreparedormordanted
(asitiscalled)withtannicacidorwithanysubstancecontainingthatcompound
theycouldbeusedfordyeingcotton.
Themordantused,tannicacid,hasthepropertyofcombiningwiththedyesofthis
grouptoforminsolublecolouredtannates.Nowtannicacidhasacertainamountof
affinityforcotton,ifthelatterbeimmersedinsolutionoftannicacidorany
materialcontainingitsomeofthelatteristakenupandmoreorlessfixedbythe
cottonfibre.Tannicacidisavegetableproductfoundinalargenumberofplants,
andplantproducts,suchassumac,myrabolams,dividivi,galls,oakbark,gambier,
cutch,algarobilla,valonia,etc.,whicharecommonlyknownastannins,ortannin
matters,onaccountoftheiruseintheconversionofanimalskinsorhidesinto
leather,whichisdoneinthetanningindustry.
Byitselfthetannincolourlake,whichmaybeformedonthecottonfibreby
immersionfirstinabathoftanninandtheninadyebath,isnotfasttowashingand
soaping,butbytakingadvantageofthefactwithsuchmetalsastin,iron,antimony,
etc.,itcombinestoforminsolubletannatesthetannicacidcanbefixedonthe
cottonbyimmersioninabathcontainingsuchfixingsaltsastartaremetic,tin
[Pg148]
crystals,copperas,antimonyfluoride,andantimonyoxalate.Thedyeingofcotton
withthebasiccoloursthereforeresolvesitselfintothreeoperations:
(1)Tanningwithtannicacidorsometanningmatters.
(2)Fixationwithtartaremeticorotherfixingagent.
(3)Dyeingwiththerequiredcolourormixtureofcolours.
(1)TheTanningOperation.Thepracticeoftanningormordantingcottonwith
tanninisvariouslycarriedonbydyers.Somesteepthecottoninthetanninbath
overnight,othersimmerseitfromtwotothreehoursinalukewarmbath,while
someenteritinaboilingbath,whichisthenallowedtocooldownandthecottonis
liftedout.Thelastisperhapsthequickestmethod,andexperimentshaveshown
thatitisasgoodasanyothermethod,ifthequantityoftannicacidtakenupbe
regardedasthecriterionofsuccess.
Inthenaturalproductswhichhavejustbeenenumerated,thetannicacidis
accompaniedbysomecolouringmatter,whichisalsoabsorbedbythecottonin
some(sumacandgalls)thiscolourispresentinbutsmallquantitiesinothers(divi
divi,myrabolams,algarobilla),thereisalargequantitythereforecottontreated
withthesecomesoutmoreorlesscoloured.Nowitisobviousthatsuchformsof
tannincannotbeusedwhenlighttintsaretobedyed,forsuchtheaciditselfmust
beused,formediumshadessumacorgallsmaybeusedwhilewhendarkshades
browns,maroons,darkgreens,navyblues,etc.,aretobedyed,thensuchtannin
mattersasdividiviormyrabolamsmaybeconvenientlyandeconomicallyadopted.
Thequantityusedvariesaccordingtocircumstancesthecharacteroftheshades
thataretobedyed,thedyestuffused,thequalityandcharacterofthetanninmatter
used.Forpaleshadesabout1percent.oftannicacidmaybeused,deepshades
requirefrom3to4percent.Oftanninmattersfrom5percent.maybeusedfor
[Pg149]
paleshades,from20to25percent.fordeepshades.Thetanninbathsarenot
exhausted,andmaybekeptstanding,addingforeachsucceedinglotofcottonfrom
tooftheabovequantitiesoftanninmatters.Ofcoursesoonerorlaterthebaths
becomeunusablefromvariouscauses,andthentheymaybethrownawaybutold
tanninbathsoftenworkbetterthanthenewones.
(2)TheFixingBath.Followingonthetanninbathcomesthefixingbathtofix
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thetanninonthecottonintheformofinsolublemetallictannates.Avarietyof
metallicsaltsmaybeusedforthispurpose,thoseofantimony,tin,iron,lead,etc.,
thesubstancesmostcommonlyusedbeingtartaremetic,antimonyfluoride,oxalate
ofantimony,tincrystalsandcopperas.
Beyondformingtheinsolubletannateofantimonyortin,asthecasemaybe,the
saltsofantimonyandtinhavenofurthereffectonthetannedcotton,andtheymay
beusedtofixthetanninforalltintsorshades,fromverypaletoverydeep.Ofall
thesesaltstartaremetichasbeenfoundtobethebest,probablybecauseitisthe
leastacidinitsreactions,andthereforethereisnotendencytoremoveanytannin
fromthefibre,asisthecasewiththeothersalts.Tinsaltislittleusedforthis
purpose,becauseofitsacidity,whichpreventsitfromfixingthetanninas
completelyasisthecasewithtartaremetic.
Withcopperasorironliquorthequestioncomesupnotonlyofthemerefixationof
thetannin,butalsothefactthatironformswithtanningreytoblackcompounds,
hencecottonwhichhasbeentannedandthenimmersedinabathofcopperas
becomescolouredgreytoblack,accordingtothequantityofthetanninmatterused.
Thepropertyisusefulwhendarkshadesofmaroons,clarets,greens,browns,blues,
etc.,aretobedyed,andisfrequentlyemployed.
(3)Dyeing.Afterthetanninandfixingoperationscomesthedyeing.Thisisnot
[Pg150]
byanymeansadifficultoperation.Itisbestcarriedoutbypreparingacoldbath,
enteringthepreparedormordantedcottoninthisandheatingslowlyup.Itisnot
necessarytoraisetotheboilnortomaintainthedyebathatthatheat,atemperature
of180F.beingquitesufficientindyeingwiththebasiccolours,andtheoperation
shouldlastonlyuntilthecolouringmatterisextractedfromthedyebath.Working
inthisway,leveluniformshadescanbegot.
Onesourceoftroubleinthedyeingofbasicdyes,moreespeciallywithmagentas,
violetsandgreens,liesintheirslightsolubilityandgreatstrength.Inpreparing
solutionsofsuchdyesitisbesttodissolvethedyestuffbypouringboilingwater
overit,andstirringwelluntilallappearstobedissolved.
Thissolutionshouldbestrainedthroughafinecloth,asanyundissolvedspecks
willbesuretofixthemselvesontheclothandleadtodarkspotsandstains,as,
owingtotheweaksolubilityofthedye,andthisbeingalsofixedasinsoluble
tannatebythetannicacidonthefibre,thereisnotendencyforthedyetodiffuse
itselfoverthecloth,asoccasionallyhappensinothermethodsofdyeing.No
advantageisgainedbyaddingtothedyebathsuchsubstancesascommonsaltor
Glauber'ssalt.
Somefewofthedyes,e.g.,Solubleblue,Victoriablue,whichwilldyeonatannic
mordant,aresulphonatedcompoundsofthecolourbase.Thesecanbedyedin
mediumorlightshadesontounmordantedcottonfromabathcontainingalum,and
intheordinarymethodofdyeingtheadditionofalumisbeneficial,astendingto
resultintheproductionofdeepshades.Thesearesomewhatfastertowashingand
soaping,whichisowingtothedyestuffcombiningwiththealuminainthealumto
formaninsolublecolourlakeofthesulphuricacidgroupsitcontains.
Manyrecipescanbegivenforthedyeingofbasicdyesoncottonfortherangeof
tintsandshadesofallcoloursthatcanbeproducedbytheirmeansistrulygreat.
Typicalrecipeswillbegivenshowingwhatbasicdyesareavailableandhowthey
canbecombinedtogether.Thedyer,however,whoknowshowtoproduceshades
bycombiningonedyestuffwithanotherisabletogetmanymoreshadesthan
spacewillpermittobegivenhere.
[Pg151]
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SkyBlue.Mordantwith1lb.tannicacidandlb.tartaremetic,thendyewith2
oz.VictoriablueB,andoz.TurquoiseblueG.
BrightBlue.Mordantwith2lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremetic,thendye
with1lb.NewVictoriablueB,andlb.TurquoiseblueG.
PaleGreen.Mordantwith1lb.tannicacidandlb.tartaremetic,thendye
withoz.Brilliantgreenandoz.AuramineII.
BrightGreen.Mordantwith1lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremetic,thendyewith
6oz.Brilliantgreenand8oz.AuramineII.
TurquoiseBlue.Mordantwith2lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremeticdyewith
1lb.TurquoiseblueG.
Crimson.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,thendyewith1
lb.BrilliantrhodulineredBand5oz.AuramineII.
BrightViolet.Mordantwith2lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremeticdyewith1
lb.Rhodulinevioletand3oz.MethylvioletB.
RoseLilac.Mordantwith2lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremeticdyewithlb.
Rhodulineviolet.
Yellow.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremeticdyewith2lb.
AuramineII.
Orange.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremeticdyewith2lb.
Chrysoidine.
Green.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,thendyewith2lb.
[Pg152]
Brilliantgreen.
RedViolet.Mordantwith1lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremetic,thendye
with8oz.Methylviolet4R.
ThesamemethodmaybefollowedwithallthebrandsofMethyl,Parisand
Hoffmannviolets,andsoarangeofshadesfromapurpletoapurevioletcanbe
dyed.The4RtoRbrandsofthesevioletsdyereddishshades,theredness
decreasingaccordingtothemark,theBto6Bbrandsdyebluishshades,the
bluenessincreasingtillthe6Bbranddyesaveryblueshadeofviolet.
BrightSeaGreen.Mordantwith1lb.tannicacidandlb.tartaremetic,thendye
with2oz.TurquoiseblueGandoz.NewVictoriablueB.Withthesetwobluesa
verygreatvarietyoftintsandshadesofbluecanbedyed.
SeaGreen.Mordantwith1lb.tannicacidandlb.tartaremetic,anddyewith2
oz.Malachitegreen.
DarkGreen.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,thendyewith
1lb.Malachitegreenandoz.AuramineII.
BycombinationofBrilliantgreenorMalachitegreen(whicharetheprincipalbasic
greens)withAuramineinvariousproportionsagreatrangeofgreensofalltints
andshades,frompaletodeepandfromveryyellowtoverygreentints,canbe
dyed.
Scarlet.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,thendyewith1
lb.Rhodamine6Gandlb.AuramineII.
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Pink.Mordantwith1lb.tannicacidandlb.tartaremetic,anddyewithlb.
RhodamineG.
Pink.Mordantwith1lb.tannicacidandlb.tartaremetic,anddyewithlb.
IrisamineG.
SlateBlue.Mordantwith1lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremetic,thendyewith
lb.VictoriablueBand2oz.Malachitegreen.
IndigoBlue.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,thendye
with1lb.Methyleneblue2Bandlb.Malachitegreen.
[Pg153]
DarkScarlet.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,thendye
with1lb.Safranineprimaandlb.AuramineII.
Grey.Mordantwith1lb.tannicacidandlb.tartaremetic,thendyewithlb.
NewMethylenegreyB.
BluishRose.Mordantwith2lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremetic,thendyewith
1lb.RhodamineB.
Maroon.Mordantwith4lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,anddyewith2lb.
Magentaandlb.Auramine.
DarkGreen.Mordantwith5lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,anddyewith
lb.MethyleneblueBB,lb.Methylviolet2Band2lb.AuramineII.
Orange.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,anddyewith1lb.
NewPhosphineG.
LilacGrey.Mordantwith1lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremetic,anddyewith
lb.MethylenegreyBF.
GoldBrown.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremetic,anddye
withlb.ThioflavineTandlb.Bismarckbrown.
Orange.Mordantwith2lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremetic,anddyewith1lb.
Auramineandlb.Safranine.
DarkBlue.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,anddyewith
2lb.NewMethyleneblueRandlb.NaphtindoneBB.
OliveGreen.Mordantwith5lb.sumacextractand2lb.copperas,anddyewith1
lb.Auramine.
RussianGreen.Mordantwith5lb.sumacextractand2lb.copperas,anddyewith
2lb.Malachitegreen.
Scarlet.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,anddyewith1lb.
ThioflavineTandlb.IrisamineG.Withthesetwodyestuffsitispossibleto
produceavarietyofusefulshadesfromapuregreenishyellow,withThioflavineT [Pg154]
alone,toabrightbluishpink,withtheIrisaminealone,throughorange,scarlet,etc.,
withcombinationsofthetwodyestuffs.
DarkGrey.Mordantwith5lb.sumacextractand3lb.copperas,thendyewith1
lb.NewMethylenegreyG.
BlueBlack.Mordantwith8lb.sumacextractand4lb.copperas,orbetterwith
ironliquor,thendyewith2lb.IndamineblueN.
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OliveBrown.Mordantwith5lb.sumacextractand3lb.copperas,anddyewith
1lb.NewPhosphineG.
IndigoBlue.Mordantwith1lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremeticdyewith
lb.NewMethyleneblueN.
SkyBlue.Mordantwithlb.tannicacidandlb.tartaremeticdyewith1oz.
NewMethyleneblueGG.
DarkViolet.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,thendyewith
4lb.FastneutralvioletB.
BrightYellow.Mordantwith2lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremetic,anddyewith
2lb.ThioflavineT.
PrimroseYellow.Mordantwith1lb.tannicacidandlb.tartaremetic,anddye
with2oz.ThioflavineT.
NavyBlue.Mordantwith5lb.sumacextractand3lb.copperas,thendyewith2
lb.NewMethyleneblueR.
Violet.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,anddyewith2lb.
NewMethyleneblue3R.
DarkBlue.Mordantwith5lb.sumacextractand3lbcopperas,anddyewith2lb.
NewMethyleneblueNX.
BlueBlack.Mordantwith8lb.sumacextractandironliquor,thendyewith3lb.
MetaphenyleneblueB.
EmeraldTint.Mordantthecottonintheusualwaywith1lb.tannicacidand1lb.
tartaremeticdyetoshadeat180F.inabathcontaining14oz.AuramineG,2oz.
Brilliantgreen,thenlift,washanddry.
Orange.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,thendyewith4lb.
TanninorangeR.
[Pg155]
Scarlet.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,anddyewith2lb.
TanninorangeRand1lb.SafranineS.
DarkScarlet.Mordantwith3lb.tannicacidand2lb.tartaremetic,anddyewith
lb.TanninorangeRand2lb.SafranineS.
TheJanuscoloursareaseriesofdyesofabasicnaturewhichcanbeapplied
somewhatdifferentlytotheordinarybasicdyes,althoughtheordinarymethodcan
befollowed.WiththeseJanusdyesatwobathprocessisfollowed.Adyebathis
preparedcontainingthedyestuff,sulphuricacidandcommonsalt,andthisisused
attheboilfromhalftothreequartersofanhour,andthegoodsareallowedto
remaininanotherthreequartersofanhourwhilethebathcoolsdown.Nextthe
dyedgoodsareruninafixingbathofsulphuricacid,tannicacidandtartaremetic,
thisisusedattheboilfromhalftoonehour,afterwhichthedyedgoodsaretaken
outandwashed.Ifnecessarythegoodsmaybenowtoppedwithbasiccoloursin
ordertoproduceanydesiredshade.ThefollowingrecipeswillshowhowtheJanus
dyesmaybeused:
Blue.Dyewith9oz.sulphuricacid,8oz.JanusblueG,and5lb.commonsalt
fixwithlb.sulphuricacid,8oz.tannicacidand4oz.tartaremetic.
TurquoiseBlue.Dyewith9oz.sulphuricacid,1lb.JanusgreenBand10lb.salt,
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fixingwithlb.sulphuricacid,1lb.tanninandlb.tartaremetic.
DarkBlue.Dyewith9oz.sulphuricacid,2lb.JanusblueRand15lb.common
saltfixwithlb.sulphuricacid,2lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremetic.
Buff.Dyewith9oz.sulphuricacid,2oz.JanusyellowRand3lb.saltfixwith
lb.sulphuricacid,3oz.tannicacidand3lb.tartaremetic.
Crimson.Dyewith9oz.sulphuricacid,2lb.JanusredBand15lb.salt,fixing
withlb.sulphuricacid,2lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremetic.
[Pg156]
RedViolet.Dyewith9oz.sulphuricacid,1lb.JanusclaretredBand10lb.salt
fixwith12oz.sulphuricacid,1lb.tannicacidandlb.tartaremetic.
Orange.Dyewith9oz.sulphuricacid,1lb.JanusyellowRand10lb.saltfix
with12oz.sulphuricacid,1lb.tannicacidandlb.tartaremetic.
DarkViolet.Dyewith9oz.sulphuricacid,2lb.JanusgreyBand15lb.saltfix
with12oz.sulphuricacid,2lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremetic.
ChocolateBrown.Dyewith9oz.sulphuricacid,3lb.JanusbrownBand15lb.
salt,fixingwith2oz.sulphuricacid,2lb.tannicacidand1lb.tartaremetic.
(6)DYEINGONMETALLICMORDANTS.
Thereareanumberofdyestuffsorcolouringmatterslikealizarine,logwood,
fustic,barwood,cutch,resorcinegreen,etc.,whichhavenoaffinityforthecotton
fibre,andofthemselveswillnotdyeit.Theyhavethepropertyofcombiningwith
metallicoxidessuchasthoseofiron,chromium,aluminium,tin,lead,calcium,etc.,
toformcolouredbodieswhicharemoreorlessinsolubleinwater.Thesecoloured
bodiesarecalled"colourlakes,"andthemetalliccompoundsusedinconnection
withtheirproduction"mordants,"henceoftenthedyestuffsappliedbythismethod
aretermed"mordantdyes".Inthecaseofthenaturaldyestuffslogwood,fustic,
Persianberries,Brazilwood,camwood,cochineal,quercitron,cutch,etc.which
belongtothisgroupof"mordantdyes,"thewholeofthematerialdoesnotenter
intotheoperation,butonlyacertainconstituentcontainedtherein,whichis
commonlysolubleinboilingwater,andextractedoutbyboiling.Thisconstituentis
calledthe"colouringprinciple"ofthedyestufforwood,andnaturallyvarieswith
[Pg157]
each.Itisnotintendedheretodealindetailwiththesecolouringprinciples.The
methodsofapplyingandthecolourswhichcanbegotfromthesedyesvariesvery
much.Roughly,themodesofapplicationfallunderthreeheads:(1)theparticular
metallicmordantisfirstfixedonthefibrebyanysuitablemethod,andthenthe
fibreisdyed(2)thedyestuffisfirstappliedtothefibre,andthenthecolouris
fixedanddevelopedbytreatmentwiththemordantand(3)thedyestuffandthe
mordantareappliedatthesametime.Thislastmethodisnotmuchused.Inthe
followingsectionsmanyexamplesofthesemethodswillbegiven.
Thedyesfixedwithmetallicmordantvaryintheircompositionandproperties.
Thereisfirstthegroupofeosinedyes,whichareacidderivativesofacolourbase,
and,invirtueofbeingso,willcombinewiththemetallicoxides.Thecolourof
thesecolourlakesisquiteindependentofwhatoxideisused,dependingonlyon
thatoftheparticulareosinedyeemployed.Thentherearesomemembersoftheazo
dyes,particularlythecroceinescarlets,whichcanalsobedyedonthecottonbythe
aidoftin,leadoralummordants.Here,again,themordanthasnoinfluenceonthe
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colour,butonlyfixesitonthecotton.
Themostimportantclassofdyestuffswhicharedyedontocottonwithametallic
mordantisthattowhichtheterm"mordantdyes"isnowgiven.Thisincludessuch
dyesaslogwood,fustic,madder,alizarine,andallthedyesderivedfrom
anthracene.Manyofthesearenotreallydyes,thatis,theywillnotofthemselves
produceordevelopacolourontoanyfibrewhenusedaloneitisonlywhenthey
combinewiththemordantoxidewhichisused,andthenthecolourvarieswiththe
mordant.Thus,forinstance,logwoodwithironproducesabluishblackwith
chrome,abluewithalumina,areddishblue.Alizarinewithironproducesadark
violetwithalumina,ascarletwithchrome,aredwithtin,abrightscarlet.Fustic
giveswithtinandalumina,brightyellowswithchrome,adarkyellowwithiron,
anolive,andsoonwithothermembersofthisgroup,ofwhichmorewillbesaid
lateron.
[Pg158]
DyeingwithEosines.
Atonetimeafairlylargequantityofcottonwasdyedwiththeeosines,owingtothe
brightnessoftheshadesgivenbythembuttheintroductionofsuchdirectdyesas
theErikas,Ceranines,etc.,hasthrowntheeosinesoutofuse.
Themethodadoptedfortheproductionofeosinepinksandscarletsoncotton
involvesthreeoperations:(1)impregnatingtheclothwithsodiumstannate(2)
fixingoxideoftinbyabathofweaksulphuricacidand(3)dyeingwiththeeosine.
(1)PreparingwithSodiumStannate.Abathof8Tw.isprepared,andthe
cottonisallowedtosteepinthisbathuntilitbecomesthoroughlyimpregnated,
afterwhichitistakenoutandwrung.
(2)FixingtheTinOxide.Abathofsulphuricacidof2to4Tw.isprepared,
andthecottonissentthroughit,afterwhichitiswashedwellwithwater,whenitis
readyfordyeing.
Stannateofsodaiseasilydecomposedbyacidseventhecarbonicacidpresentin
theairwillbringaboutthischange.Thetincontainedinthestannateisdeposited
onthecottonintheformofstannicoxide,or,morestrictly,stannicacid.Asthisis
somewhatsolubleinacids,itisimportantthatthesulphuricacidbathbenottoo
strong,ortherewillbeatendencyforthetinoxidetobedissolvedoffthecotton,
andthenbutweakshadeswillbeobtainedinthefinaloperationofdyeing.Further,
owingtothedecompositionofthestannatebyexposuretotheair,itisimportant
thatthesubstanceshouldbeusedwhilefresh,andthatonlyfreshbathsshouldbe
used.
[Pg159]
(3)DyeingwithEosineColours.Afterthetreatmentwithstannateofsodaand
sulphuricacidthepreparedcottonisreadyfordyeing.Thisprocessiscarriedoutby
preparingacoldbathwiththerequireddyestuff,enteringthecottontherein,and
thenslowlyraisingtoabout180F.,andmaintainingatthatheatuntilthedesired
shadeisobtained.Itisnotneedfultoraisetotheboilandworkatthatheat.No
betterresultsareobtained,whilethereisevenatendencyforcolourstobe
producedthatrubbadly,whichisduetothetoorapidformationofthecolourlake
anditisworthyofnotethatwhenacolourlakeisrapidlyformedonthefibrein
dyeingitisapttobebutlooselyfixed,andthecolouristhenloosetobothwashing
andrubbing.
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DyeingwithAcidandAzoDyes.
Indyeingwiththisclassofcoloursstannateofsoda,acetateofleadoralummaybe
usedasmordants.Thestannateofsodaisemployedinthesamemanneraswhen
theeosinesareused,and,therefore,doesnotrequiretobefurtherdealtwith.
Acetateofleadisusedinasimilarway.Thecottonisfirststeepedinabathof
acetateofleadofabout10Tw.strong,usedcold,andfromhalfanhourtoanhour
isallowedforthecottontobethoroughlyimpregnatedwiththeleadsolution,itis
thenwrungandpassedasecondtimeintoabathofsoda,whenleadoxideorlead
carbonateisdepositedonthecotton.Afterthistreatmentthecottonisreadyfor
dyeingwithanykindofacid,azoandeveneosinedyes,andthisisdoneinthesame
mannerasisusedindyeingtheeosinesonastannatemordant.Theshadesobtained
onaleadmordantcannotbeconsideredasfasttheybleedonwashingandruboff
badly.
Whenalumisusedasthemordantitmaybeemployedinthesamewayasacetate
oflead,butasaruleitisaddedtothedyebathdirect,andthedyeingisdoneatthe
boil.Thislattermethodgivesequallygoodresults,andismoresimple.
[Pg160]
Theeosinesanderythrosines,waterblues,solubleblues,croceinescarlets,cloth
scarlets,andafewotherdyesoftheazoandacidseriesareusedaccordingtothis
method.Theresultsarebynomeansfirstclass,deepshadescannotbeobtained,
andtheyarenotfasttowashing,soapingandrubbing.
Themethodsofemployingthemuchmoreimportantgroupofcolouringmatters
knownasthemordantdyes,whichcomprisesuchwellknownproductsas
logwood,fusticandalizarine,requiremoreattention.Withthese,alumina,iron,and
chromiummordantsareusedaschiefmordants,eitheraloneorincombinationwith
oneanother,andwithotherbodies.Theprincipalpointistoobtainagooddeposit
ofthemordantonthecottonfibre,andthisisbynomeanseasy.
Thereareseveralmethodsbytheuseofwhichadepositisformedofthemordant,
eitherintheformofmetallicoxide(or,perhaps,hydroxide)orofabasicsalt.In
somecasesthecottonispassedthroughalternatebathscontaining,ononehand,the
mordantingsalt,e.g.,alum,copperas,etc.,and,ontheother,afixingagent,suchas
sodaorphosphateofsoda.Oramordantingsaltmaybeused,containingsome
volatileacidthatonbeingsubjectedtoasubsequentsteamingisdecomposed.Both
thesemethodswillbebrieflydiscussed.
MethodsofMordanting.
ThecottonisfirststeepedinabathcontainingTurkeyredoil,andisthendried.By
thismeansthereisformedonthefibreadepositoffattyacid,whichisofgreat
valueinthesubsequentdyeingoperationstoproducebrightandfastshades.After
theoilingcomesabathofalumoraluminasulphate,eitherusedasbought,ormade
basicbytheadditionofsoda.Theresultistobringaboutonthefibreacombination [Pg161]
ofthefattyacidwiththealumina.Followingonthealumbathcomesabath
containingsodaorphosphateofsoda,whichbringsaboutabetterfixationofthe
alumina.
Theseoperationsmayberepeatedseveraltimes,especiallywhenafullshade
havingagooddegreeoffastnessisdesired,as,forinstance,Turkeyredsfrom
Alizarine.Thismethodofmordantingissubjecttoconsiderablevariationsas
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regardstheorderinwhichthevariousoperationsarecarriedout,thestrengthofthe
baths,andtheircomposition.Agreatdealdependsupontheultimateresultdesired
tobeobtained,andthepricetobepaidforthework.
Ironismucheasiertofixoncottonthaniseitheraluminaorchrome.Itisusually
sufficienttopassthecottonthroughabathofeithercopperasorironliquor,hang
uptodryorage,andthenpassintoabathoflime,sodaorevenphosphateofsoda.
Theothermordantsrequiretwopassagestoensureproperdepositionofthe
mordantonthefibre.
Followingonthemordantingoperationscomesthedyeing,whichiscarriedoutin
thefollowingmanner.Thebathismadecoldwiththerequiredamountofdyestuff
andnottoosmallaquantityofwater,thecottonisimmersedandworkedforashort
timetoensureimpregnation,thenthetemperatureisslowlyraisedtotheboil.This
operationshouldbecarefullycarriedout,inasmuchastimeisanimportantelement
inthedyeingwithmordantcoloursthecolouringprinciplecontainedinthedye
stuffmustenterintoachemicalcombinationwiththemordantthathasbeenfixed
onthefibre.Heatgreatlyassiststhisbeingbroughtabout,butiftheoperationis
carriedontooquickly,thenthereisatendencyforunevenshadestobeformed.
Thiscanonlyberemediedbykeepingthetemperaturelowuntilthedyestuffhas
[Pg162]
beenfairlywellunitedwiththemordant,andthenmaintainingtheheatattheboil
toensurecompleteformationofthecolouringlakeonthefibre,andthereforethe
productionoffastcolours.
Ithasbeennoticedinthedyeingofalizarinesonbothcottonandwoolthatwhen,
owingtoavarietyofcircumstances,localoverheatingofthebathhappenstotake
placedarkstrainsorstreaksaresuretobeformed.Toavoidthesecareshouldbe
takenthatnosuchlocalheatingcanoccur.
Itonlyremainstoaddthatitispossibletodyeagreatrangeofshadesbythis
method,redswithalizarineandaluminablackswithlogwoodandirongreens
fromlogwood,fustic,orPersianberries,withchromeandironbluesfromalizarine
bluesgreensfromCoeruleineorDinitrosoresorcine,etc.
Anothermethodofmordantingcottonforthemordantgroupofdyestuffsisthatin
whichthecottonisimpregnatedwithasaltofthemordantoxidederivedfroma
volatileacidsuchasaceticacid,andthensubjectedtoheatorsteaming.This
methodislargelytakenadvantageofbycalicoprintersforgrounds,anddyers
mightmakeuseofittoamuchlargerextentthantheydo.
Thereareusedinthisprocesstheacetatesofiron,chromiumandaluminium,and
bisulphitesofthesamemetalsandafewothercompounds.Bathsoftheseare
prepared,andthecottonisimpregnatedbysteepingintheusualwaythenitis
gentlywrungoutandaged,thatis,hungupinawarmroomovernight.Duringthis
timethemordantpenetratesmorethoroughlyintothesubstanceofthefabric,while
theacid,beingmoreorlessvolatile,passesoffprobablynotentirely,butatany
ratesomeofthemetalisleftintheconditionofoxideandthebulkofitasabasic
salt.Insteadofageingthecottonmaybesubjectedtoaprocessofsteamingwiththe
sameresults.Afterthisthecottonisreadyfordyeing,whichisdonebythemethod [Pg163]
describedinthelastsection.
Thereisstillanothermethodtobenoticedhere,thatis,oneinwhichabathis
preparedcontainingboththemordantandthedyestuff.Inthiscasethecharacterof
themordantmustbesuchthat,undertheconditionsthatprevail,itwillnotforma
colourlakewiththedyestuff.Suchsubstancesarethebisulphites,ifusedwiththe
bisulphitecompoundsofthedyestuffstheacetates,ifmixedwithsomeacetic
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acid,mayalsobeused.Theprocessconsistsinpreparingthedyebathcontaining
boththemordantandthedyestuff,enteringthecotton,steepingforsometime,
thenwringingandsteaming.Duringthelatteroperationtheacidcombinedwiththe
mordant,beingvolatile,passesaway,andthecolouringmatterandmordantenter
intocombinationtoformthecolourlake,whichisfirmlyfixeduponthefibre.Very
goodresultsmaybeobtainedbythismethod.
Lastly,inconnectionwiththemordantcolours,attentionmaybedirectedtothe
processofusingsomeofthem,whichconsistsinmakingasolutionofthedyestuff
inammonia,impregnatingthecottonwiththisalkalinesolution,andsubjectingitto
asteamingoperation,duringwhichthealkali,beingvolatile,passesaway,leaving
thecolouringmatterbehindinaninsolubleform.Thecottonisnextpassedintoa
weakbathofthemordant(preferablytheacetatesofiron,etc.).,thisbeingusedfirst
coldandthengraduallyheatedup.Thedyeonthefibreandthemordantcombineto
formthedesiredcolour,whichisfixedonthefibre.
Thechromemordantsarethosewhicharemostcommonlyappliedbythemethods
heresketchedout,andwiththelargeandincreasingnumberofmordantdyes
available,theprocessesshouldbeworthattentionfromthecottondyer.
Thefollowingrecipesgivefullerdetailsthantheoutlinesketchesofthemethods
givenabovefortheuseofthevariousdyesproducedwiththemordantdyesand
metallicmordants.Insomecasesaswillbeseenotherdyesmaybeaddedto
producespecialshades:
[Pg164]
DarkOlive.Prepareabathfrom8lb.cutch,4lb.logwoodextract,7lb.fustic
extract,2lb.coppersulphate.Workinthisforonetooneandahalfhoursatthe
boil.Thisbathmaybekeptstanding,addingnewingredientsfromtimetotime,and
worksbestwhenitgetsold.Thenpassintoacoldbathof3lb.copperasforone
hour,thenwashandenterintoanewbathof10lb.salt,6oz.Titanblue3B,6oz.
TitanbrownR,6oz.TitanyellowY,workforonehourattheboil,thenlift,wash
anddry.
Brown.Prepareabathwith20lb.cutch,2lb.coppersulphate,4lb.quercitron
extract.Workforoneandaquarterhoursattheboil,thenallowtolieforaday,
whenthegoodsarepassedintoabathcontaining3lb.bichromateofpotashand1
lb.alum.Workat150to160F.inthisforafewminutes,thenallowtoliefor
fourtofivehours,washwellanddry.
Olive.Workfortwentyminutesat80F.inabathof10lb.fusticextract,5lb.
quercitronextract,2lb.logwoodextractheattoboil,workforhalfanhour,then
enterinacoldbathof2lb.sodiumbichromateand5lb.coppersulphateworkfor
twentyminutes,thenheattoboilworkfortwentyminutesmore,washanddry.
PaleBrown.Treatinahotbathof25lb.cutch,1lb.bluestoneworkforhalfan
hourinthisbath,thenlift,wring,andworkinabathof1lb.bichromateofpotash
fortwentytothirtyminutes.Dyeinabathof2lb.alum,7oz.Chrysoidin,14oz.
PonceauB.
FastBrown.Thecottonisheatedinaboilingbathcontaining20lb.cutch,4oz.
coppersulphateforonehour,itisthentreatedinabathcontaining8oz.bichromate
ofpotashforhalfanhour,thendyedinabathcontaining2oz.Benzoblackblue,6 [Pg165]
oz.BenzobrownNB,2lb.soap,8lb.salt,foronehourattheboil,washedand
dried.
Drab.Dissolvelb.cutch,7lb.bluestone,8lb.extractoffusticentergoodsat
120F.,givesixturns,liftanddrain.Prepareafreshbathcontaining2lb.copperas
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entergoods,givethreeturns,lift,andenterfreshbathat120,containing2lb.
bichromateofpotash,givefourturns,drain,washanddry.
CoffeeBrown.Foronepiece,wetoutinhotwater,runforhalfanhourupona
jiggerinabathof6lb.goodcutch,takeupanddraininabathof8lb.blackiron
liquordrain,runagainthrougheachbathandrinsewell.Prepareafreshbathwith
Bismarckbrown,enterat100F.,heatslowlyto200F.,drain,rinseanddry.
DarkBrownOlive.Preparethedyebathwith12lb.cutch,2lb.bluestone,2lb.
alum,10lb.quercitronextract,2lb.indigocarmine4lb.turmeric,lb.Bismarck
brownboilforoneandahalfhours,thenliftandadd1lb.copperasreenterthe
goods,giveanotherhalfhour,boil,thenadd1lb.bichromateofpotash,worktwo
hoursmore,thenwashanddry.
RedDrab.Boilup10lb.cutchand5lb.sumacenterthecottonat140F.,work
fifteenminutesandlift.Prepareafreshbathof4lb.blackironliquorenterthe
cottoncold,worktenminutesandlift.Prepareanotherbathwith3lb.bichromate
ofpotashentercottonat160F.,workfifteenminutes,liftandwash.Finishina
freshbathcontaining3lb.logwood,6lb.redliquorentercottonat100F.,work
tenminutes,lift,washanddry.
Fawn.Boilup5lb.cutchand5oz.bluestone,coolto100F.enter,givesix
turns,lift,andadd2lb.copperasreentercotton,givefourturns,liftandwring.
Prepareafreshbathwith1lb.bichromateofpotashentercottonat110F.,give
fiveturns,lift,washanddry.
[Pg166]
GreySlate.Boilup10lb.sumac,3lb.fusticextractcooldownto120F.,give
eightturns,liftandwring.Prepareafreshbathwith5lb.copperasentercotton
cold,givefiveturns,liftandwash.
DarkPlum.Laydownovernightin30lb.sumac.Nextmorningwringandenter
inafreshbathofoxymuriateoftin20Tw.,givefourturns,liftandwashwellin
twowaters.Boilout40lb.groundlogwood,10lb.groundfustic,coolbathdownto
140F.entercotton,giveeightturns,liftandadd1gallonsredliquorreenter
yarn,givefourturns,lift,washanddry.
PaleChamois.Workthecottonseventurnsinacoldbathof3lb.copperas,then
wringandpassintoacoldbathof3lb.sodaashworkwell,washanddry.
DarkBrownOlive.Prepareabathof28lb.fustic,lb.logwood,18lb.cutch,4
lb.turmeric,2lb.coppersulphate,lb.alumworkforanhourattheboil,then
saddeninanewbathof1lb.bichromateofpotashforhalfanhour,thensaddenin
anewbathoflb.nitrateofiron,workinginthecoldforhalfanhour,lift,wash
anddry.
HavanaBrown.Prepareabathwith4lb.cutchand1lb.bluestoneworkatthe
boilforonehour,thenpassthroughawarmbathoflb.bichromateofpotash,1
lb.sulphuricacid.Washanddyeinabathoflb.Bismarckbrownand4lb.alum
workforonehouratabout180F.,washanddry.
Black.Prepareadyebathwith20lb.extractoflogwood,4lb.cutch,5lb.soda
ash,5lb.coppersulphate.Heattotheboil,enterthecotton,andworkwellforthree
hours,thenlift,andallowtolieovernightinawetcondition,washandpassintoa
bathof1lb.bichromateofpotashforhalfanhourlift,washanddry.Thedyebath
isnotexhausted,andonlyaboutonethirdofthevariousdrugsneedbeaddedfor
furtherbatchesofcotton.
[Pg167]
ResedaGreen.Prepareabathwith15lb.cutch,8lb.turmericworkinthisfor
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fifteenminutesatabout150F.,thenpassthroughahotbathof2lb.bichromateof
potashforonehour,thenreenterintoacutchbathtowhichhasbeenadded,1lb.
sulphateofironworkforonehour,thenadd2lb.alumandworkhalfanhour
longer,rinse,washanddry.
FawnBrown.Prepareadyebathwith4lb.cutch,2lb.fusticextractworkfor
onehourathandheat,thenlift,andpassthroughabathof1lb.bichromateof
potashworkforaquarterofanhour,rinseandpassintoafreshbathof1oz.
Bismarckbrownfortenminutes,thenlift,washanddry.
Beige.Prepareabathwith20lb.sumacentercottonat120F.,givesixturns,lift
andaddlb.copperasreentercotton,givefourturnsandwring.Prepareafresh
bathcontaining2lb.extractoffustic,3oz.extractofindigoentercottonat120
F.,givethreeturns,raisetemperatureto140F.,andturntoshade,lift,washand
dry.
TurkeyRed.Oneofthemostimportantcoloursdyedoncottonisthatknownas
Turkeyred,abrightredofabluishtone,characterisedbyitsgreatfastnesstolight,
washing,etc.Strongalkaliesturnitmoreyellowish,butweakacidsandalkalies
havelittleaction.
IntothehistoryofthedyeingofTurkeyreditisnotintendedtoenter,thosewho
areinterestedinthesubjectshouldrefertooldworksondyeingnorisitintended
tospeakofoldmethodsofproducingitwiththeaidofmadder,butrathertogive
someofthemostmodernmethodsfordyeingitwithalizarine.
ManyprocessesdifferingsomewhatindetailhavebeendevisedfordyeingTurkey
redoncotton,anditisprobablethatnotwoTurkeyreddyersworkexactlyalike.It
isdifficulttoproducethemostperfectred,andaverygreatdealofcareincarrying
outthevariousoperationsisnecessarytoobtainit.Thiscareandthenumberof
operationsmakesTurkeyredanexpensivecolourtodye,andsoshortermethods
areinusewhichdyearedoncottonthatischeaper,butnotsobrilliantorfastasa
trueTurkeyred.
[Pg168]
Process1.Thisprocessisperhapsthemostelaborateofallprocesses,butit
yieldsafinered.Theprocessisapplicabletoclothoryarn,althoughnaturallythe
machineryusedwillvarytosuitthedifferentconditionsofthematerial.Bleached
yarnorclothmaybetreated,althoughafullbleachisnotnecessary,buttheclothor
yarnmustbecleanorwellscoured,sothatitisfreefromgreaseandother
impurities.
Operation1.Boilthecottonforsixtoeighthourswithacarbonateofsodalyeat1
Tw.inakieratordinarypressure,thenwashwell,wring,or,better,hydroextract.
Operation2.First"greening":Whatiscalledthe"firstgreenliquor"ispreparedby
taking15lb.ofgallipolioil,3lb.phosphateofsodaand15lb.carbonateofsoda,
theliquortostandat2Tw.Originallythis"liquor"wasmadewithsheepdung,but
thisisnowomitted.Thecottonisworkedinthisliquor,whichiskeptat100F.,
untilitisthoroughlyimpregnated,thenitistakenout,squeezedanddried,orin
somecasespiledovernightandthenstoved.
Operation3.Secondgreenliquor.Asbefore.
Operation4.Thirdgreenliquor.Asbefore.
Operation5.Acarbonateofsodaliquorof2Tw.strengthisprepared,andthe
cottonsteepedinthisuntilitisthoroughlyimpregnated,thenitiswrungoutand
stoved.Thisiscalled"whiteliquortreatment".
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Operation6.Secondwhiteliquor.Asbefore.
Operation7.Steeping:Prepareabathofwaterat150F.,andsteepfortwelve
hours,thenwringanddry.
Operation8.Sumacing:Aliquorismadefrom12lb.sumacwithwater,andafter
strainingfromundissolvedsumacleavestheliquorismadetostandat2Tw.,this
iskeptatabouta100F.,andthecottoniswellworkedinitandallowedtosteep
forfourhours,afterwhichitistakenoutandwrung.
[Pg169]
Operation9.Mordantingoraluming:20lb.ofalumaredissolvedinhotwater,and
5lb.ofsodacrystalsareslowlyaddedinordertoprepareabasicalumsolutionthis
isnowmadebytheadditionofwatertostandat8Tw.
Thesumacedcottonisworkedinthisbathandallowedtosteepfortwentyfour
hours,whenitistakenoutandwrung.Somedyersaddalittletincrystalstothis
bathothersaddasmallquantityofredliquor.
Operation10.Thedyeing:Acoldbathispreparedwith10lb.to12lb.alizarine,3
lb.sumacextract,and2oz.lime.Thecottonisenteredintothecoldbath,worked
fromfifteentotwentyminutessoastogetitthoroughlyimpregnatedthentheheat
isslowlyraisedtotheboilandthedyeingcarriedonatthatheatuntilthefullshade
isobtained,whichusuallytakesaboutanhour.Accordingtothebrandofalizarine
usedsowilltheshadethatisobtainedvary,aswillbementionedlateron.
Operation11.Firstclearing:Thedyedcottonisplacedinaboilerandboiledfor
fourhourswith3lb.sodacrystalsand3lb.palmoilsoap,afterwardswashingwell.
Operation12.Secondclearing:Thedyedcottonisagainboiledfortwohourswith
2lb.soapandlb.tincrystals,thengiveagoodwashinganddry.
Thisprocessisalongoneindeed,somedyersbyrepeatingsomeoftheoperations
lengthenitandittakesatleasttwoweeks,insomecasesthreeweeks,tocarry
out.
Thefirstideaistogetthecottonthoroughlyimpregnatedwiththeoil,andthis
oxidisedtosomeextentonthefibre,andtothisendtheoiltreatmentsarecarried
out.Inthisprocessexperiencehasshownthatoliveoilisthebesttouse,although
otheroilshavebeentriedfromtimetotime.Thesumacingenablesthealuminato
bemorefirmlyfixedontothecotton.Thealuminacombineswithboththeoiland
thesumac,andtheresultingmordantproducesabetterandmorebrilliantredwith
thealizarine.Theclearingoperationsservetoremoveimpurities,tobrightenthe
colour,andtomorefullyfixitonthecotton.
[Pg170]
Process2.Operation1.Thecottoniswellbleachedorscouredwithsodainthe
usualway.
Operation2.Oilingorpreparing:Aliquorismadefrom10lb.alizarineoilor
Turkeyredoilin10gallonswater.Thisoilispreparedfromcastoroilbyaprocess
oftreatmentwithsulphuricacid,washingwithwaterandneutralisingwithcaustic
soda.Thecottonisthoroughlyimpregnatedwiththisoilbysteeping,thenitis
wrungoutanddried.
Operation3.Steaming:Thecottonisputintoasteamingcottageorcontinuous
steamingchamberandsteamedforfromonetooneandahalfhoursatabout5lb.
pressure.
Operation4.Abathofredliquor(acetateofalumina)at8Tw.isprepared.Some
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dyersusebasicalumatthesamestrength.Inthisbaththecottonissteepedat100
F.fortwohoursthenitiswrungoutanddried.Thisalumingbathcanberepeated.
Nextitisrunthroughabathofchalkandwatercontaining2lb.chalkin10gallons
water.Thishelpstofixthealuminaonthecotton.Phosphateofsodaalsomakesa
goodfixingagent.
Operation5.Dyeing:Thisiscarriedoutinpreciselythesamewayasintheother
process.
Operation6.Oiling:Asecondoilingisnowgiveninabathof5lb.alizarineoil,or
Turkeyredoil,in10gallonswater,afterwhichthecottonisdried,whenitisready
forfurthertreatment.Inplaceofgivingasecondoilingafterthedyeing,itis,
perhaps,bettertogiveitafterthemordantingandbeforedyeing.
[Pg171]
Operation7.Clearing:Thedyedcottonisclearedwithsoapinthesamemanneras
theclearingoperationsofthefirstprocess,whichsee.
Anyofthetreatmentspreparatoryto,andfollowingtheactualdyeingof,anyof
theseprocessesmayberepeatedifdeemednecessary.Thetextbooksondyeing
andthetechnicaljournalsdevotedtothesubjectfrequentlycontainaccountsof
methodsofdyeingTurkeyred,butwhenthesecometobedissectedthemethods
arebutlittlemorethanvariantsofthosewhichhavejustbeengiven.
Seeingthatthetheoryortheoriesinvolvedinthisrathercomplexprocessofdyeing
Turkeyred,andthatcolouristsarenotagreedastotherealpartplayedbytheoil,
thesumacandtheclearingoperationsintheformationofaTurkeyredoncotton,
nothingwillbesaidhereastothetheoryofTurkeyreddyeing.
AlizarineRed.Itispossibletodyearedwithalizarineoncottonwhich,while
beingagoodcolour,isnotquitesofasttowashing,etc.,asaTurkeyred.Thisis
donebyusingfewertreatments,asshowninthefollowingprocess:
Process1.Boilthecottoninsoda.
Process2.OilwithTurkeyredoil,asintheTurkeyredprocessNo.2above.
Process3.Mordantwithalumoracetateofalumina.
Process4.Dyewithalizarineasbefore.
Process5.Soap.
Therearethreedistinctcolouringmatterswhicharesoldcommerciallyunderthe
nameof"alizarine".Theseare:alizarineitself,whichproducesabluishshadeof
redanthrapurpurine,whichgivesasimilarbutlessblueredthanalizarineand
flavopurpurine,whichproducestheyellowestreds.Themakerssendoutallthese
variousproductsundervariousmarks.
[Pg172]
FordyeingTurkeyredstheflavoandanthrapurpurinebrandsoryellowalizarines
aretobepreferredforpinksandroseshadesthealizarineorblueshadebrandsare
best.
AlizarinePink.ThiscanbedyedinthesamewayasTurkeyred,onlyusingfor
fullpinks4percent,ofalizarineinthedyebath,orforpalepinks1to2percent.It
isadvisabletoreducethestrengthoftheoilingandmordantingbathsdowntoone
half.
AlizarineViolet.Alizarinehasthepropertyofcombiningwithirontoformadark
violetcolour,andadvantageistakenofthisfacttodyewhatarecalledinthe
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dyeingandcalicoprintingtradesalizarinepurplesandlilacs,althoughthesedonot
resembleinhueorbrilliancethepurplesandlilacswhichcanbegotfromthedirect
dyes.Theyhavenottheimportancewhichtheyformerlypossessed,andbutamere
outlineoftwoprocessesfortheirproductionwillbegiven.
AlizarinePurple.Process1.(1)Boilwithsoda,(2)preparewithTurkeyredoil,
(3)mordantbysteepingincopperasliquorat4Tw.fortwentyminutes,takeout,
allowtolieonstillagesovernight,thenwashanddry.Fordeeppurplesitmaybe
advisabletorepeatthesetreatmentsforpalelilacsusingthemathalfstrengthis
advisable.(4)Dyewith8to10percent.ofalizarineblueshade,workingas
describedunderTurkeyred.Thebestresultsareobtainedwhen1percent,ofchalk
isaddedtothedyebath.(5)Soapasinreddyeing.
Process2.(1)Boilwithsoda,(2)oilwithTurkeyredoil,(3)steepinpyroligniteof
iron(ironliquor)foronehour,thenagebyhangingintheair.(4)Dyeasbefore.(5)
Soap.
Fineblacksaregotifafteroilingthecottonistreatedwithsumacortannicacid,
thenmordantedwithironanddyedwithalizarineasusual.
ChocolateBrowns.Finefastchocolatebrownscanbegotfromalizarinebyusing
amixedmordantofironandalumina,eithertheacetateorthesulphate.Byvarying
therelativeproportionsvariousshadescanbeobtained.
[Pg173]
AlizarineOrangePreparethecottonasiffordyeingaTurkeyred,butuseinthe
dyebath8to10percent.ofAlizarineorange.
AlizarineBlueThecottonisboiledthreehourswith3percent.ammoniasodaat
30lb.pressure,andthenwashedthoroughly.Theboiled,washedandhydro
extractedyarnisoiledwithasolutioncontainingfromlb.to1lb.Turkeyred
oil,50percent.foreverygallonofwater.Itisthenwrungoutevenlyanddriedfor
twelvehoursat150F.
TanninGrounding.
Theoiledanddriedcottonisworkedthreequartersofanhourinavatcontaininga
tanninsolution(1oz.pergallon).Thecottonremainsinthisliquid,whichis
allowedtocoolofffortwelvehours,thenitishydroextracted.Sumacturnsthe
shadesomewhatgreener,whichisnoticedespeciallyafterbleaching,therefore
tanninisgiventhepreference.
ChromiumMordant.
Thecottontreatedwithtanninandthenhydroextractedisworkedcoldforonehour
inavatcontainingasolutionofchromiumchlorideat32Tw.,andremainsinthis
solutiontwelvehours.Thecottonisthenhydroextractedandwasheddirectlyitis
besttoemployrunningwater.Aspecialfixationdoesnottakeplace.Thecottonis
nowreadyfordyeing.Thesolutionofchromiumchlorideandthetanninsolution
canbeusedcontinuously,addingfreshliquortokeepthebathsuptostrength.
DyeingFordyeing,waterfreefromlimemustbeused.Waterhavingnotmore
than2.5hardnesscanbeemployedifitiscorrectedwithaceticacid,thereby
convertingthecarbonateoflimeintoacetateoflime.Verycalcareouswatermust
befreedfromlimebeforeuse.Thedyebathcontainsfor100lb.cotton15lb.
Alizarinebluepaste(ARorF,accordingtotheshadedesired),35lb.aceticacid
(12Tw.),15lb.ammonia(25percent.),2oz.tannin.Thecottonisworkeda
quarterofanhourinthecoldthetemperatureisraisedslowlytoaboil,taking
aboutonehour,andthecottonisworkedthreequartersofanhouratthatheat.
[Pg174]
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Finallythecottoniswashedandhydroextracted.Thedyedandwashedcottonis
steamedtwohoursat15lb.to22lb.pressure.Steamingturnstheshadegreenerand
darker,andincreasesthefastness.Aftersteamingthecottonitissoapedoneortwo
hoursattheboil,withorwithoutpressure.Accordingtothequalityofwater
employed,2to5partssoapper1,000partswateraretaken.
Brown.Afinebrownisgotbyasimilarprocesstothis,ifinsteadofAlizarine
blue,Alizarineorangeisusedinthedyebath.AdeeperbrownstillifAnthracene
brown,oramixtureofAnthracenebrownandAlizarineblue,beused.
ClaretRed.Claretstomaroonshadeofredaregotbypreparingthecottonasfor
bluegivenabove,thendyeingwithalizarine.
LogwoodBlack.Oneofthemostimportantcoloursthatcomeunderthissectionis
logwoodblack,theformationofwhichonthefibredependsuponthefactthatthe
colouringprincipleoflogwoodformsablackcolourlakewithironandalsoone
withchromium.
Therearemanywaysofdyeinglogwoodblacksoncotton,whetherthatbeinform
ofhanksofyarns,warpsorpieces.Whiletheseblacksmaybe,andinthecaseof
hanksare,dyedbywhatmaybetermedanintermittentprocess,yetforwarpsand
piecegoodsacontinuousprocessispreferredbydyers.Examplesofbothmethods
[Pg175]
willbegiven.AsinthedyeingofTurkeyredsitisprobablethatnotwodyersof
logwoodblacksquiteagreeinthedetailsoftheirprocess,theremaybevariationsin
theorderofthevariousbathsandintheirrelativestrengths.Typicalmethodswill
benotedhere.
DyeingLogwoodBlackonYarninHanks.Operation1.Sumacing:Preparea
bathwith10lb.sumacextractinhotwater.Worktheyarninthisforhalfanhour,
thenallowtosteepforsixhoursorovernight,liftandwring.Theliquorwhichis
leftmaybeusedagainforanotherlotofyarnbyadding5lb.sumacextractforeach
successivelotofyarn.Inplaceofusingsumacthecheapermyrabolamextractmay
beused.
Operation2.IroningorSaddening:Prepareabathwith3gallonsnitrateofiron,
80Tw.Worktheyarninthisforfifteenminutes,thenwringout.Thebathmaybe
usedagainwhen1gallonofnitrateofironisaddedforeachlotofyarnworkedin
it.Inplaceofthenitrateofiron,thepyroligniteofironorironliquormaybeused.
Operation3.Liming:Workfortenminutesinaweakbathofmilkoflime.
Operation4.Dyeing:Thisisdoneinabathmadefrom10lb.logwoodextractand1
lb.fusticextract.Theyarnisenteredintothecoldortepidbath,theheatslowly
raisedtoabout150F,thenkeptatthisheatuntilagoodblackisgot,whenthe
yarnistakenout,rinsedandwrung.Theadditionofthefusticextractenablesa
muchdeeperandjettershadeofblacktobedyed.
Operation5.Saddening:Toobtainafullerblackthedyedcottonissentthrougha
bathof1lb.ofcopperas,thenwashedwell.
Operation6.Soaping:Workfortwentyminutesinabathof2lb.soapat140to
150F.Thenwashwell.
Muchthesameprocessmaybefollowedfordyeinglogwoodblackonwarpsand
piecegoods,jiggersbeingusedforeachoperation.
[Pg176]
Anothermethodistofirstworkthecottoninpyrolignite(ironliquor)at10Tw.,
untilitisthoroughlyimpregnated,thentodryandhangintheairforsomehours,
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nexttopassthroughlimewatertofixtheiron,andthentodyeasbefore.
ContinuousProcess.Inthiscaseacontinuousdyeingmachineisprovided,fitted
withfivetosixcompartments.Thecottonisfirstofallpreparedbysteepingina
bathof12lb.myrabolamextractforseveralhours,thenitistakentothecontinuous
machineandruninsuccessionthroughnitrateofironliquor,limewater,logwood
andfustic,ironliquorandwater.Thenitrateofironbathcontains2gallonsofthe
nitrateto10gallonsofwater,andasthepiecesgothroughfreshadditionsofthis
liquoraremadefromtimetotimetokeepupthevolumeandstrengthoftheliquor
totheoriginalpoints.
Thelogwoodbathismadefrom10lb.logwoodextractand1lb.fusticextract,and
itisusedatabout160F.Thequantitiesheregivenwillservefor100lb.ofcotton,
anditiswelltoaddthemdissolvedupinhotwaterinsmallquantitiesfromtimeto
timeasthecottongoesthroughthebath.
Theironliquorgivenafterthedyeingcontains2lb.ofcopperasin10gallonsof
water.
Betweenthevariouscompartmentsofthemachineisfittedsqueezingrollersto
pressoutanysurplusliquor,whichisrunbackintothecompartment.Therateof
runningthewarporpiecesthroughshouldnotbetoorapid,andthedyermustadapt
theratetothespeedwithwhichtheclothdyesupinthedyebath.
Theadditionofalittleredliquor(aluminaacetate)totheironbathissometimes
made,thisisadvantageous,asitresultsintheproductionofafinerblack.Ironby
itselftendstogivearustylooking,orbrownishblack,buttheviolet,orlilacshade
thataluminagiveswithlogwood,tonestheblackandmakesitlookmorepleasant.
[Pg177]
Somedyersaddasmallquantity,1percent.,oftheweightofthecottonofsulphate
ofcoppertotheironbath,othersaddevenmorethanthis.Someusenitrateof
copperthecoppergivingagreenishshadeofblackwithlogwood,andthistones
downtheironblackandmakesitmorebloomyinappearance.
Singlebathmethodsofdyeinglogwoodblacksareinuse,suchmethodsarenot
economicalasalargequantity,bothofdyewoodandmordants,remaininthebath
unused.Althoughfullintenseblackscanbedyedwiththem,theblackisrather
looselyfixedandtendstoruboff.Thisisbecauseasboththedyestuffandthe
mordantareinthesamebathtogethertheytendtoenterintocombinationandform
acolourlakethatprecipitatesoutinthedyebath,causingthelossofmaterial
alludedtoabove,whilesomeofitgetsmechanicallyfixedonthecotton,inamore
orlesslooseform,andthisloosenesscausesthecolourtoruboff.
Forachromelogwoodblack,adyebathismadewith3lb.bichromateofpotash,
100gallonslogwooddecoctionat3Tw.,and6lb.hydrochloricacid.Enterthe
cottonintothecoldbath,raiseslowlytotheboilandworkuntilthecottonhas
acquiredafullblackbluecolour,thentakeitoutandrinseinahotlimewaterwhen
ablueblackwillbegot.
Acopperlogwoodblackisgotbytaking100gallonslogwooddecoctionat3Tw.,
and6lb.copperacetate(verdigris)thecottonisenteredcoldandbroughtuptothe
boil.Coppernitratemaybeusedintheplaceofthecopperacetate,whenitisa
goodplantoaddalittlesodatothebath.Somedyersinworkingacopperlogwood
blackmakethedyebathfrom100gallonslogwoodliquorat2Tw.,4lb.copper
sulphate(bluestone)and4lb.soda.Thisbathisusedatabout180to190F.,for
threequartersofanhour,thenthecottonisliftedout,wrungandagedorasitis
sometimescalled"smothered"forfivehours.Theoperationsarerepeatedtwoor
[Pg178]
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threetimestodevelopafullblack.
Logwoodblackdyeinghaslostmuchofitsimportanceoflateyearsowingtothe
introductionofthemanydirectblacks,whicharemucheasierofapplicationand
leavethecottonwithafullerandsofterfeel.
LogwoodGreys.Thesearemuchdyedoncottonandarenothingmorethanweak
logwoodblacks,andmaybedyedbythesameprocessesonlyusingbathsofabout
onetenththestrength.
Byaonebathprocess5lb.oflogwoodaremadeintoadecoctionandtothis1lb.
ofcopperas(ferroussulphate)isaddedandthecottonisdyedatabout150F.in
thisbath.Byaddingtothedyebathsmallquantitiesofotherdyewoods,fustic,
peachwood,sumach,etc.,greysofvariousshadesareobtained.Somerecipes
bearingonthispointaregiveninthissection.
Logwoodisnotonlyusedfordyeingblacksandgreysastheprincipalcolouring
matter,butisalsousedasashadingcolouralongwithcutch,fustic,quercitron,etc.,
indyeingolives,browns,etc.,andamongtherecipesgiveninthissectionexamples
ofitsuseinthisdirectionwillbefound.
Thedyewoodsfustic,Brazilwood,barwood,Limawood,camwood,cutch,
peachwood,quercitronbark,Persianberrieshavesincetheintroductionofthe
directdyeslostmuchoftheirimportanceandarenowlittleused.Cutchisusedin
thedyeingofbrownsandseveralrecipeshavealreadybeengiven.Theirproduction
consistsessentiallyintreatingthecottoninabathofcutch,eitheraloneorforthe
[Pg179]
purposeofshadingwithotherdyewoodswhenthecottontakesupthetanninand
colouringmatterofthecutch,etc.Thecolouristhendevelopedbytreatmentwith
bichromateofpotash,eitherwithorwithouttheadditionofanironsalttodarken
theshadeofbrown.
Theusualmethodsofapplyingalltheotherdyewoods,toobtainscarletstoreds
withBrazilwood,Limawood,peachwoodoryellowswithfustic,quercitronor
Persianberries,istofirstpreparethecottonwithsumac,thenmordantwithalumina
acetateortincrystals(thelattergivesthebrightestshades),thendyeinadecoction
ofthedyewoods.Sometimesthecottonisboiledinabathofthewoodwhenit
takesupsomeofthedyewood,nextthereisaddedaluminaacetateortincrystals
andthedyeingiscontinuedwhenthecolourbecomesdevelopedandfixeduponthe
cotton.
Ironmaybeusedasamordantforanyofthesedyewoodsbutitgivesdullsad
shades.
Chromemordantscanalsobeusedandtheseproducedarkershadesthantinor
aluminamordants.
Aspracticallyallthesedyewoodsarenownotusedbythemselvesithasnotbeen
deemednecessarytogivespecificrecipesfortheirapplication,onpreviouspages
severalaregivenshowingtheiruseincombinationwithotherdyes.
ThedyestuffDinitrosoresorcineorSolidgreenOisusedalongwithiron
mordantsforproducingfastgreensandwithchromemordantsforproducing
brownstoalimitedextentincottondyeing.Thefollowingrecipesgivethedetails
oftheprocess.
Green.Steepthecottonyarnorclothinthefollowingliquoruntilwell
impregnated,thendry:3gallonsironliquor(pyroligniteofiron),22Tw.gallons
ofwater,gallonaceticacid,12Tw.,2lb.ammoniumchloride.Thenpassthe
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cottonthroughawarmbathof3oz.phosphateofsodaand4oz.chalkpergallon,
thenenterintoadyebathcontaining6lb.SolidgreenO.Workasdescribedfor
dyeingalizarinered.FordarkergreensofaRussiangreenshadeuse10lb.ofsolid
greenO,inthedyebath.
[Pg180]
Brown.Afinebrownisgotbysteepingthecottoninabathof8lb.SolidgreenO,
6gallonswater,1gallonsammoniaand2lb.acetateofchromedry,thenpass
throughasoapbath,washanddry.
DeepOliveBrown.Mix8lb.SolidgreenOand4lb.boraxwith6gallons
water,addlb.Turkeyredoil,5lb.ammonia,then2gallonswaterand1lb.
coppersodasolutionandanother2gallonswater.Steepthecottoninthis,dry,soap
wellandwash.Thecoppersodasolutionismadefrom10lb.chlorideofcopper
(75Tw.),5lb.tartaricacid,12lb.causticsoda(75Tw.)and4lb.glycerine.
Khaki.Makethedyeliquorfrom14lb.SolidgreenO,lb.AlizarineyellowN,
1lb.causticsoda(36Tw.),lb.Turkeyredoiland8gallonswater.Tothisadd
2lb.acetateofchrome(32Tw.),2lb.coppersodasolutionand4gallons
water.
SageGreen.Use1lb.SolidgreenO,3lb.causticsoda(36Tw.),lb.
Ceruleine,lb.Turkeyredoil,1gallonwatertowhichisadded2lb.acetateof
chrome(32Tw.)and2lb.coppersodasolutiondissolvedin4gallonswater.
PaleBrown.Use4lb.SolidgreenO,2lb.borax,3lb.ammonia,lb.Turkey
redoil,6gallonsofwaterand1lb.coppersodasolutiondissolvedin2gallons
water.
PaleFawnBrown.Thedyebathismadefromlb.Alizarine,1lb.Solidgreen
O,1lb.borax,lb.Turkeyredoiland5gallonsofwatertowhichisadded1
lb.acetateofchrome(32Tw.),1lb.coppersodasolutionand4gallonswater.In
allcasesthecottonissteepedinthedyeliquorsuntilthoroughlyimpregnated,then
theexcessliquoriswrungout,thecottondried,thenpassedthroughasoapbath,
washedwellanddried.
[Pg181]
DarkBrown.Placethecottoninalukewarmbathof25lb.cutchand1lb.
coppersulphateworkforhalfanhour,thensteepforsixhours,thenlift,wringand
enterintoabathof3lb.bichromateofpotashat160F.fortwentyminutes.Then
washanddry.
YellowBrown.Makeabathwith14lb.cutchandlb.coppersulphateworkin
thisbathforfourhoursat120F.,thenpassintoabathof2lb.copperasandlb.
chalk,workforhalfanhourinthecold,thenpassintoahotbathof2lb.
bichromateofpotashat150F.forhalfanhour.
DarkBrown.Makeadyebathwith15lb.cutch,2lb.logwoodextractand2lb.
fusticextractworkthecottoninthisat160F.forthreehours,thenpassintoa
coldbathof1lb.copperasandlb.chalkforhalfanhour,thenintoabathof3lb.
bichromateofpotashforhalfanhourat150F.,thenwashanddry.
(7)PRODUCTIONOFCOLOURDIRECTUPON
COTTONFIBRES.
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Bytheactionofnitrousaciduponthesaltsoftheprimaryorganicaminestheso
calleddiazocompoundsareformed.Anexampleofthisimportantprocessisthatof
nitrousacidonanilinehydrochlorideshowninthefollowingequation:
C6H5NH2+HCl+HNO22H2O+C6H5N:NClHydrochloricacidNitrousWater,
Diazobenzeneaniline,acid,chloride.
Thesediazocompoundsaredistinguishedbytheiractiveproperties,especiallyin
combiningwithaminesinacidsolutions,orwithphenolsinalkalinesolutionto
formtheazodyes,thusdiazobenzenechloridewillcombinewithnaphtholtoform
naphtholazobenzene,thus:
C6H5N:NCl+C10H7OH+NaOH=Diazobenzenechloride,Naphthol,Caustic
soda.
C10H6OHN:NC6H5+NaCl+H2ONaphtholazobenzene,Salt,Water.
[Pg182]
Theseazocompoundsarecoloured,butareperfectlyinsolubleinwater,alkalies,or
acidsontheotherhandthesulphonatesofthesebodiesareeasilysolubleandform
thenumerousazodyesnowsolargelymadeandusedinwoolandsilkdyeing,but
whichonaccountoftheirbeingsulphonatescannotbeusedforcottondyeing.
Methodshavebeendevisedforproducingtheinsolubleazocoloursdirectuponthe
fibres.Theyarealsocallednaphtholcoloursfromtheuseofbetaandalpha
naphtholintheirproduction.Althoughtheseazodyes,whenproducedonthefibre,
donotpossessthefastnessofthealizarinedyes,yet,onaccountoftheircheapness
andrelativegreatfastnesstosoapandtheactionofsunlight,theyarebetterthan
manyofthenewercottondyes.
Bythismethod(firstintroducedinEnglandbyHolliday)coloursofexceptional
brightnessandfastnesscanbeobtainedwhichwerenotobtainablewiththedyes
thenknown.Thosewhichareobtainedfromphenolsareofthefirstimportance.
TheDiazotisationoftheAmidoBases.
Withmostbasesthismustbeaccomplishedascoldaspossiblebelow65F.Ata
highertemperature,andwhenallowedtostand,mostdiazocompoundsdecompose
quicklywithevolutionofnitrogen,whichdecompositionresultsinthemixture
losingitspowerofproducingcolour,oratthemostgivesunsatisfactoryresults.For
thisreasonitisthereforealwaysnecessarytoworkascoldandasquicklyas
possible.
Theamidoazobodies,whosecompoundswiththephenolsarealsodistinguished
bytheirgreatfastness,areinthisrespectanexception.Theycanbediazotisedat
theordinarytemperature,andtheirdiazocompoundsaremuchstablerthanthose,
forexample,ofalphaandbetanaphthylamineorofaniline,whichmustalwaysbe
usedasquicklyaspossible.
[Pg183]
Fromanisidine,phenetidineandamidodiphenylamine,stillmorestablediazo
compoundscanbeobtained,butthepricesofthesebasesareratherhigh,andthe
coloursproducedwiththemarenotfasttolight.
Thecheapestandmostconvenientmethodofobtainingnitrousacidfordiazotising
isbytheactionofamineralacid,preferablyhydrochloricacid,uponnitriteofsoda.
Fordiazotisingonemoleculeofbaserequiresonemoleculeofhydrochloricacidto
formasaltofthebase,amoleculeofnitriteofsoda,andanothermoleculeof
hydrochloricacidtodecomposethenitrite.Thediazotisationisbettercarriedout
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andthediazosolutionrenderedmorestableifanothermoleculeofhydrochloric
acidandanexcessofnitriteofsodaareused.Thepresenceofanexcessofnitrite
canbedeterminedbytestingthediazosolutionwithpotassiumiodidestarchpaper,
whichinthepresenceofexcessofnitritegivestheblueiodinestarchreaction.
Incarryingoutthediazotisation,thebaseisfirstdissolvedinthewholeamountof
hydrochloricacidwhichhastobeused,andthesolutionisfiltered.The
diazotisationtakesplaceinthemannershownintheequation:
C6H5NH2+HCl+HCl+NaNO2=
Anilinehydrochloride,Hydrochloricacid,Sodiumnitrite,
NaCl+C6H5N:NCl+H20
Salt,Diazobenzenechloride,Water.
Thebaseswhichformsaltssolublewithdifficulty,suchasnitroanilineandthe
amidoazobodies,offerspecialdifficultiesindiazotising.
Ithasbeenfoundthattheoperationwiththeseisbestcarriedoutifthechemically
purebasesinpasteformaremixedwiththerequisiteamountofnitrite,andthe
dilutedpastethenpouredintothehydrochloricacid.
[Pg184]
Ithasbeenfoundbyexperiencethatthecolourisdevelopedmuchbrighterupon
thefibrewhenthediazosolutioncontainsaceticacidandnofreemineralacid.
However,thediazotisationisbettercarriedoutwithhydrochloricacid,andthe
presenceofthelatterisnecessarytogivestabilitytothesolution.Ifbeforethe
diazosolutionisusedaquantityofacetateofsodabeaddedtoit,thefree
hydrochloricacidliberatesaceticacidfromtheacetate,andthechlorideofthe
diazobodychangesintoitsacetate.Itisbettertoaddanexcessabovethetwo
moleculesofacetateofsodawhicharerequired.
Thecombinationwhenanilineandbetanaphtholareused,astheamineandphenol
respectively,isshowninthefollowingequations:
C6H5N:NCl+C10H7OH+
Diazobenzenechloride,B.naphthol,
NaOH=2NaCl+C6H5N:NC10H6OH+H2OCausticsoda,Benzeneazo
naphthol,Water.
Or,withnaphthylamineandnaphthol,thus:
C10H7N:NCl+C10H7OH+NaOH=
NaCl+C10H7N:NC10H6OH+H2O
Naphthaleneazonaphthol.
Bytheactionofnitrousaciduponamidoazobodiesagroupofbodiescalleddiazo
azocompoundsareobtainedwhichcontainthegroupN:Ntwiceover,thus:
C6H5N:NC6H4NH2HCl+NaNO2+2HCl=
Benzeneazoanilinehydrochloride,
NaCl+C6H5N:NC6H4N:NCl+2H2O.
Diazoazobenzenechloride.
[Pg185]
Whenthiscompoundiscombinedwithnaphtholdiazoazodyesareproduced.
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C6H5N:NC6H4N:NC10H6OH.Benzeneazobenzeneazonaphthol.
Themolecularweightsofthebases,phenolsandchemicalsemployedarethe
following:
1.Hydrochloricacid,HCl36.5.2.Causticsoda,NaOH40.3.Nitriteofsoda,
NaNO269.4.Acetateofsoda,NaC2H3O23H2O136.
1.Commercialhydrochloricacidat32Tw.containsabout365gramsofHClina
litre,or3lb.inagallon.
2.Thecommercial77percent.sodamustalwaysbeused,andforpractical
purposesitmaybetakenaspure.Itisbesttomakeasolutionwhichcontains160
gramsNaOHinalitreofwater.
3.Thenitritesuppliedisalmostchemicallypure,andiseasilysolubleinwater.In
ordertomakeasolution140or290gramsaredissolvedperlitre.
4.Crystallisedacetateofsodacontains3moleculesofwaterofcrystallisation,and
isusuallysomewhatmoist.Insteadof136grams140aretakentoallowfor
moisture.Theamountisdissolvedinabout500cubiccentimetresofwater.
Bases.
1.Aniline,C6H5NH293.
2.Toluidine,C7H7NH2107.
3.Alphaandbetanaphthylamine,C10H7NH2143.
4.Paraormetanitroaniline,C6H4NO2NH2138.
5.Nitroparatoluidine,C7H6NO2NH2152.
6.Amidoazobenzene(base),C6H5N:NC6H4NH2197.
7.Orthoamidoazotoluol(base),C7H7N:NC7H6NH2225.
8.AlphaorbetanaphtholC10H7OH144.
[Pg186]
ExampleofQuantitiesTaken.
MolecularWeight.
1.Moleculenitrite69grams.
2.Moleculeaniline93"
3.Moleculehydrochloricacid365"
4.Moleculeacetateofsoda136"
5.Moleculeofnaphthol144"
6.Moleculecausticsoda40"
Applyingtheprincipleswhichhavejustbeendescribedtothedyeingofcotton,itis
foundthatthecottonmaybedyedbytakingthebaseandpreparingthediazobody,
impregnatingthecottonwiththis,anddevelopingthecolourbypassingintoabath
ofthephenol.Ontheotherhand,thecottoncanbepreparedwiththephenoland
thecolourdevelopedbypassingintoabathofthediazotisedbase,andpracticehas
shownthatthislatterproceedingisthebest.Practicallytheonlyphenolthatisused
isthebetanaphtholalphanaphtholisoccasionallyused,butnotoften.
Thepurerthebetanaphtholthebetter,especiallyforproducingtheparanitroaniline
red.Variouspreparationsofbetanaphtholhavebeenbroughtoutbycolourmakers.
Theprocessofdyeingcottonwithanaphtholcolourtakesplaceintwostages,the
firstbeingthegroundingorpreparingwiththenaphthol,thesecondthedeveloping
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withthediazotisedbase.Someoftheeffectswhichcanbeobtainedfromthetwo
naphtholsandvariousbasesaregiveninthefollowingtable:
Base.Withbetanaphthol,givesWithalphanaphthol,gives
1.Aniline,OrangeyellowCutchbrown.
2.Paratoluidine,FullyelloworangeCutchbrown.
3.Metanitroaniline,FieryyellowishredBrownishorange.
4.Paranitroaniline,Brightscarlet""
Base.Withbetanaphthol,givesWithalphanaphthol,gives
5.Nitroparatoluidine,OrangeVerybrightcatechu.
6.Alphanaphthylamine,BluishclaretredReddishpuce.
7.Betanaphthylamine,Turkeyred"
8.Amidoazobenzene,Red"
9.Orthoamidoazotoluene,Yellowishclaretred"
[Pg187]
Bymixingalphaandbetanaphtholstogetheravarietyofgrenatandclaretredsand
brownscanbeobtained.
Withregardtothefastnessoftheshadesproducedthefollowingmaybe
considered:
FasttoSoaping.
CombinationofANaphtholwithToluidine.
""ANaphthylamine.
""BNaphthylamine.
""Amidoazobenzene.
"BNaphtholwithToluidine.
""Paranitroaniline.
""Nitroparatoluidine.
""BNaphthylamine.
""ANaphthylamine.
ModeratelyFast.
CombinationofANaphtholwithAniline.
""Paranitroaniline.
""Orthoamidoazotoluene.
"BNaphtholwithMetanitroaniline.
""Amidoazobenzene.
VeryLoose.
CombinationofANaphtholwithParatoluidine.
""Metanitroaniline.
"BNaphtholwithAniline.
""Paratoluidine.
[Pg188]
Thesamplesweretestedforfastnesstolightbyexposingthemforninedayswith
thefollowingresults:
Fast.
CombinationofANaphtholwithAniline.
""Toluidine.
""Metanitroaniline.
""Paranitroaniline.
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""BNaphthylamine.
""Amidoazobenzol.
""Orthoamidoazotoluol.
"BNaphtholwithAniline.
""Paratoluidine.
""Metanitroaniline.
""Paranitroaniline.
""BNaphthylamine.
""ANaphthylamine.
ModeratelyFast.
CombinationofBNaphtholwithNitroparatoluidine.
VeryLoose.
CombinationofANaphtholwithToluidine.
""ANaphthylamine
"BNaphtholwithToluidine.
""Amidoazobenzene.
Themostimportantofthenaphtholcoloursisundoubtedlyparanitroanilinered,
producedbythecombinationofparanitroanilineandbetanaphthol.Inorderto
producethebestandbrightestshadesthesetwobodiesmustbequitepure.The
followingdirectionsmaybefollowed:
[Pg189]
DyeingParanitroanilineRedonYarn.
Itunfortunatelyhappensthatthisreddoesnotadmitofbeingworkedinlarge
quantitiesatatime,particularlyinthediazobathwherethecolourisdeveloped,as
thepreviousoperationsseemtorendertheyarnslightlywaterproof,andhenceif
largequantitiesofyarnweredealtwithatonetimesomewouldbefoundtobe
dyedallright,otherswouldbedefective.Ithas,therefore,beenfoundbesttowork
onlyabout2lb.ofyarnatatime,carefullycarryingouteachoperationwiththis
quantity.As,however,theprocesscanbequicklyworkeditfollowsthatinthe
courseofadayafairlylargequantityofyarncanbetreated.
1.Grounding.Thegroundingorpreparingbathfor100lb.ofyarnisbestmadein
thefollowingmanner:4lb.ofbetanaphtholarestirredin2lb.ofcausticsoda
liquor70Tw.,then1quartsofboilingwaterisadded,whendissolved1quarts
ofcoldwater.Inaseparatevesseldissolve5lb.Turkeyredoilin11quartsof
water,thenmixthetwoliquorstogetherandaddsufficientwatertomakeupthe
wholeto12gallons.
Inworkingsufficientofthisliquoristakenandputintoadeeptubinwhich2lb.of
yarncanbeconvenientlyworked.Itisbesttoworkatatepidheat,say100to110
F.2lb.oftheyarnareworkedinthisliquor,sothatitbecomesthoroughly
impregnated,thenitisgentlywrungoutandhungup.Thisoperationisrepeated
witheach2lb.untilthewhole100lb.hasbeentreated,addingfromtimetotime
someofthenaphtholliquortomakeupforthattakenupbythecotton.Whenall
theyarnhasbeenthroughtheliquor,giveitanotherdipthroughthesameliquor.
Placetheyarninahydroextractorforfivetosevenminutes.Nextopenoutthe
yarnwell,andhangonsticksanddryinastoveat140to150F.Thestoveshould
beheatedwithironpipes,throughwhichsteamat30lb.to40lb.pressurepasses.
Thisstoveshouldbereservedentirelyforthiswork,forifothergoodsbedriedinit
alongwiththenaphtholpreparedcotton,anysteamoracidvapourswhichmightbe
givenofffromtheformermightdamagethelatter.
[Pg190]
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Whenthoroughlydrytheyarnisreadyforthenextoperation.
2.Developing.Thedevelopingbathismadeinthefollowingmanner:1lb.
paranitroanilineismixedwith1gallonsofboilingwater,and1quartsof
hydrochloricacidat30to32Tw.Stirwelluntiltheparanitroanilineiscompletely
dissolved,add3gallonsofcoldwater,whichwillcauseaprecipitationofthe
hydrochlorateofparanitroanilineasayellowpowder.Letthemixturethoroughly
cooloff,bestbyallowingtostandallnight1lb.ofnitriteofsodaisdissolvedin
4quartsofcoldwater,andthissolutionisaddedtotheparanitroanilinesolution
slowlyandwithconstantstirringinaboutfifteentotwentyminutesthe
diazotisationwillbecomplete.Atthisandfollowingstagesthetemperatureof
workingshouldbekeptaslowaspossible.Somedyersuseiceinpreparingtheir
diazosolutions,andcertainlythebestresultsareattainedthereby,butwith
paranitroanilinetheicecanbedispensedwith.Aftertheendofthetimesufficient
coldwaterisaddedtobringthevolumeoftheliquorupto10gallons.Thisdiazo
liquorwillkeepforsomedays,butitdecomposesintime,sothatitshouldnotbe
kepttoolong.
Anotherliquorismadebydissolving4lb.acetateofsodain11quartsofwater.
Thedevelopingbathismadebytaking4gallonsofthediazoliquorand1gallonof
theacetateliquorandmixingtogether,andinthisbaththepreparedyarn,2lb.ata
time,isworked.Thecolourdevelopsimmediately.Theyarnwhendyedislifted
out,wrung,andthenitiswellwashedwithwater,soapedinabathat120F.,with
aliquorcontainingoz.soappergallon,thendried.Asthecottonyarnisbeing
passedthroughthedevelopingbath,thelatterisfreshenedupfromtimetotimeby
suitableadditionsofthediazoandacetateliquorsintheproportionsgivenabove.
[Pg191]
Somedyersuseaspecialformofdyevatfordyeingparanitroanilineredonyarn,
whoseconstructioncanbeseenfromFig.27.
FIG.27.DyetubforParanitroanilineRed.
Thebetanaphtholbathdoesnotkeepwellandintimetendstogrowbrown,and
whenthisoccursstainsareinvariablyproducedonthecotton.Whentheyarnor
clothhasbeenpreparedwiththebetanaphthol,anddried,thedevelopingshouldbe
immediatelyproceededwith,foritisfoundthatbyallowingthepreparedcottonto
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lieaboutitbecomescoveredwithbrownstains,andwhensuchstainedcottonis
passedthroughthedevelopingbathstainsanddefectivedyeingresult.
[Pg192]
Ithasbeenfoundthatbyaddingalittletartaremetictothebetanaphtholbaththis
islargelyifnotentirelyprevented,andthepreparedclothmaybekeptfora
reasonablelengthoftimebeforeproceedingwiththedevelopmentwithoutfearof
stainsbeingformed.
Variousadditionshavebeenmadefromtimetotimetothenaphtholbath.Someof
thesetaketheformofspecialpreparationsofthecolourmanufacturers,andaresold
asnaphtholD,naphtholX,reddeveloperC,etc.,sometimesgumtragacanthhas
beenadded,atothersinplaceofTurkeyredoilthereisusedasoapmadefrom
castoroilwithsodaandammonia,butsuchcomplicatedbathsdonotyieldany
betterresultsthanthesimplepreparingliquorgivenabove.
FIG.28.PaddingMachineforParanitroanilineRed.
DyeingParanitroanilineRedonPieceGoods.
Thedyeingofthisredontopiecegoodsonlydiffersfromthatonyarnbyreasonof
thedifferenceintheformofmaterialthatisdealtwith.
[Pg193]
1.PreparingorGrounding.Thesameliquormaybeused.Thisoperationisbest
doneonapaddingmachine,asketchofwhichisgiveninFig.26,showingthe
courseofthecloththroughtheliquor.Thisiscontainedintheboxofthemachine,
andthisiskeptfullbyaconstantstreamflowinginfromastorevatplacedbeside
themachine.Aftergoingthroughtheliquor,theclothpassesbetweenapairof
squeezingrollerswhichsqueezeoutthesurplusliquor.Fig.28showsaviewofa
paddingmachineadaptedforgroundingparanitroanilinereds.Afterthepadding,
theclothisdriedbybeingsentoverasetofdryingcylinders,orthroughwhatis
knownasthehotflue.
2.TheDeveloping.Afterbeingdried,thepiecesaresentthroughapadding
machinechargedwiththedevelopingliquormadeasdescribedabove,afterwhich
theclothisrinsed,thensoaped,andthenwashed.Somedyersuseacontinuous
machinefortheseoperations,suchasshowninFig.29.
Whilethedevelopingbathusedforpiecegoodsmaybethesameasthatusedfor
yarns,somedyersprefertouseonemadesomewhatdifferently,thus6lb.
paranitroanilinearemixedwith7gallonsboilingwaterand1gallons
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hydrochloricacidwhendissolved16gallonsofcoldwaterareadded,then,after
completelycooling,3lb.sodiumnitritedissolvedin3gallonscoldwater.After
twentyminutes,whenthediazotisationiscomplete,waterisaddedtomakethe
wholeupto40gallons.Theacetateliquorismadefrom13lb.acetateofsodain
13gallonsofwater.
Equalquantitiesofthesetwoliquorsareusedinmakingthedevelopingbath.
Oflateyears,underthenamesofAzophorredPN,NitrazolC,Nitrosamine,etc.,
therehasbeenofferedtodyerspreparationsofdiazotisedparanitroanilineinthe
formofapowderorpaste,readilysolubleinwater,thatwillkeepina
[Pg194]
FIG.29Developing
Machinefor
ParanitroanilineRed.
coolanddryplaceforanyreasonablelengthoftime.Thesearepreparedinvarious
ways,andtoanydyerwhodoesnotwantthetroubleofdiazotisingthe
paranitroanilinetheyoffersomeadvantages.Theyproducearedequalinevery
respecttothatobtainedfromparanitroaniline.Thefollowingdetailsshowthe
methodtobefollowedwithsomeoftheseproducts,othersareverysimilartomake
thedevelopingbaths.
[Pg195]
ParanitroanilineRedwithNitrazolC.Dissolve25lb.NitrazolCin12gallonsof
coldwaterwithconstantstirring,thenaddsufficientcoldwatertomake37gallons.
Inanothervesseldissolve11lb.ofacetateofsodain5gallonswater,thenadd
1gallonscausticsoda,36Tw.,mixedwith5gallonswater.Thedeveloping
bathismadebymixingboththesesolutions.Itwillsufficeforbothyarnandpiece
goods.
ParanitroanilineRedwithAzophorRedPN.Dissolve5lb.ofAzophorredPN
in4gallonsofwateritdissolvesalmostcompletelybutusuallyafewparticlesof
aflocculentcharacterremainundissolved,thesecanberemoved2gallonsof
causticsodalyeof36Tw.aredilutedwithwaterto10gallons,andthisisadded
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withconstantstirringtotheazophorredPNsolution.Whenallismixedandaclear
solutionobtained,thedevelopingbathisreadyforuse,andisusedinthesameway
astheparanitroanilinebath.
MetanitroanilineOrange.Thisorangeisproducedinthesamewayasthe
paranitroanilinered,usingmetanitroanilineorAzophororangeMNinplaceofthe
paranitroanilineortheAzophorredPNgivenforthered.Thequantitiesofallthe
materialsusedareidentical.
NitrosamineRed.Dissolve5lb.Nitrosamineredin5gallonsofwaterand2lb.
hydrochloricacid,whenwellmixedthereisadded2lb.acetateofsoda,whenall
isdissolvedaddsufficientwatertomake6gallons.Thisbathisusedexactlyin
thesamewayastheparanitroanilinedevelopingbath,anditproducesidentical
resultsineveryway.
[Pg196]
ParanitroanilineBrown.Byboilingtheparanitroanilinereddyedcottonina
weakbathofcoppersulphateaveryfinefastbrownresemblingacutchbrownis
produced.Abetterplan,however,istopreparethecottonwithagroundcontaining
analkalinesolutionofcopper,3lb.betanaphtholaredissolvedin5pintsofcaustic
sodalyeof36Tw.,towhichisadded5lb.Turkeyredoiland10pintsalkaline
coppersolution,waterbeingaddedtomake13gallonsofliquor.Thecottonis
treatedinthiswayaswiththeordinarybetanaphtholpreparation.Thealkaline
coppersolutionismadebytaking5pintsofcopperchloridesolutionat76Tw.,
adding3lb.tartaricacid,6pintscausticsodalye,70Tw.,and2pintsof
glycerine.Thedevelopingbathforthebrownisthesameasfortheparanitroaniline
red,ortheAzophorredPNbathmaybeused.
ToluidineOrange.Forthiscolourthecottonispreparedwiththebetanaphtholin
theordinaryway.Thedevelopingbathismadefrom2lb.orthonitrotoluidinemixed
with12pintsboilingwaterand2pintshydrochloricacidwhendissolvedallow
tocoolandthenadd12lb.ice.Whenthoroughlycoldstirin2pintsofsodium
nitritesolutioncontaining3lb.pergallon.Stirwellfortwentyminutes,thenfilter
add4lb.sodiumacetateandsufficienticecoldwatertomake13gallons.Usethis
bathinthesamewayastheparanitroanilinebath.
BetanaphthylamineRed.Thisredisagoodone,butisnotsobrightorsofastas
theparanitroanilinered,hencealthoughsomewhatolderinpointoftimeitisnot
dyedtothesameextent.Thedevelopingbathismadefrom1lb.beta
naphthylaminedissolvedwiththeaidof10pintsboilingwaterand1pint
hydrochloricacid.Whendissolvedallowtocooladd27lb.iceand2pints
hydrochloricacid.Whencooledto32to36Tw.,add3pintssodiumnitrite
solution(3lb.pergallon)and4lb.sodiumacetate,makingupto13gallonswith
water.Thisalsoisusedinpreciselythesamewayastheparanitroanilinered
developingliquor.
[Pg197]
AlphaNaphthylamineClaret.Thisisaveryfineandfairlyfastred,andnextto
theparanitroanilineredmaybeconsideredthemostimportantofthenaphthol
colours.Thedevelopingbathisalittlemoredifficulttomake,owingtothefactthat
itismoredifficulttogetthealphanaphthylamineintosolution.Thebestwayof
proceedingisthefollowing:Heat1lb.ofalphanaphthylaminein10pintsof
boilingwater,agitatingwelluntilthebaseisveryfinelydividedinthewater,then
1pintsofhydrochloricacidisadded,andtheheatandstirringcontinueduntilthe
baseisdissolved,thenthemassisallowedtocool,27lb.oficeisaddedand1
pintsofhydrochloricacid.Whencooleddownto32to36F.,thereisadded3
pintssodiumnitritesolution(3lb.pergallon),andafterallowingthediazotisation
tobecompleted,4lb.sodiumacetateandsufficientwatertomake13gallonsof
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liquor.
Thebathisusedinthesamemannerasthepreviousdevelopingbaths.
DianisidineBlue.Dianisidinedevelopswithbetanaphthol,avioletblue,whichis
notveryfast,butbytheadditionofsomecoppertothedevelopingbathaveryfine
blueisgotwhichhasafairdegreeoffastness.Thedevelopingbathismadeas
follows:Mix10oz.dianisidinewith7oz.hydrochloricacidand7pintsof
boilingwater,whencompletesolutionisobtaineditisallowedtocool,then20lb.
oficeisadded.Next1pintsofnitriteofsodasolution,containing1lb.pergal.
and2pintsofcoldwater.Stirforthirtyminutes,thenadd1pintscopper
chloridesolutionat72Tw.,andsufficientwatertomakeup6gallons.
Thecottonispreparedwithbetanaphtholintheusualway,andthenpassed
throughthisdevelopingbath.
[Pg198]
AmidoazotoluolGarnet.Amidoazotoluolproduceswithbetanaphtholafine
garnetredintheusualway.
Thedevelopingbathismadefrom14oz.amidoazotoluol,mixedwith1pintsof
sodiumnitritesolutioncontaining1lb.pergallon,whenwellmixedadd1pintof
hydrochloricaciddilutedwith2pintswater,whenthisiswellmixedaddsufficient
watertomakeupagallon,thenadd1lb.acetateofsoda.
Thecottonispassedthroughthisdyebath,thenwashedwell,passedthrougha
weakacidbath,thensoapedwell,washedanddried.
(8)DYEINGCOTTONBYIMPREGNATIONWITHDYESTUFFSOLUTION.
Indigoisadyestuffwhichrequiresspecialprocessesforitsapplicationtothe
cottonorwoolfibre.
Itspeculiarityisthatintheforminwhichitcomestothedyeritisinsolublein
water,andtoenableittobedissolvedandthereforetobeusedasadye,theindigo
hastogounderaspecialtreatment.Thecolouringprincipleofindigoisabody
namedindigotin,towhichtheformulaC16H16N2O2hasbeengiven.Whenindigo
ismixedwithsubstanceslikelimeandcopperas,limeandzinc,zincandbisulphite
ofsoda,whichcausetheevolutionofnascenthydrogen,ittakesupthisbodyand
passesintoanothersubstancewhichiscalledindigowhitethathastheformula
C16H12N2O2,leuco,orwhiteindigothissubstanceissolubleinwater,andso
whenitisformedtheindigopassesintosolutionandcanthenbeusedfordyeing.
Butindigowhiteisanunstablesubstanceonexposuretoair,theoxygenofthe
latterattacksthehydrogenwhichithastakenup,andindigotinisreformed,the
indigowhitechangingagainintoindigoblue.
Indigodyeingconsistsofthreeoperations:
[Pg199]
(1)Preparationoftheindigosolution,or,asitiscalled,
settingthedyevat.(2)Steepingthecottoninthisvat.(3)
Exposingtotheair.
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FIG.30.IndigoDyevatforCloth.
Thereareseveralmethodsofpreparing,orsettingthedyevat,andofeachofthese
modificationsareinuseineveryindigodyehouse:
(1)Withlimeandcopperas.(2)Zincandlimevat.(3)Zincand
bisulphiteofsoda.
Inallcasesitisnecessaryfortheindigotobegroundtotheformofafinepaste
withwaterthisisusuallydoneinwhatisknownastheballgrindingmill.The
fineritisgroundthemoreeasyisittomakethedyevats.
[Pg200]
Thedyevatsmaybeeitherroundtubsorsquarewoodentankswhenclothsor
warpsarebeingdyedthesemaybefittedwithwincesandguiderollers,soasto
drawthematerialsthroughtheliquor.Inthecaseofyarnsinhankstheseappliances
arenotnecessary.
Fig.30isasketchofanindigodyevatforclothorwarps.
(1)LimeandCopperasVat.Topreparethisvattake75gallonsofwater,4lb.
ofindigo,8lb.copperas,and10lb.ofgoodquicklime.Puttheseintothevatinthe
ordershown.Theamountofindigoisaddedinproportiontotheshadewhichis
requiredtobedyed:forpaleshades,2lb.to3lb.willbesufficientwhilefordeep
shades,6lb.to7lb.maybeused.Theamountofcopperasshouldbefromoneand
ahalftotwicethatoftheindigo.Thevatshouldbestirredverywellandthenleftto
stand.Thechangeswhichoccurareprobablythefollowing:Thelimeactsuponthe
copperasandproducesferroushydratethisisunstableandtendstotakeup
oxygenandhydrogenfromthewater,particularlywhenthereissomeindigo
present,andformsferrichydratehydrogenisatthesametimeliberated,and
combineswiththeindigotoformthesolubleindigowhite.Ittakesabouttwenty
fourhourstomakeanindigovat.Whenproperlymadeandingoodcondition,the
liquorwillbeclearandofabrownishyellowcolour,abluishscummaycollecton
thesurface.Iftheliquorappearsatallgreenishitisanindicationthattheindigohas
notbeencompletelyreduced,andthevatneedsafurtheradditionoflimeand
copperas,whichshouldbeofgoodquality.Toomuchofeachshouldnotbeused,
becausewiththemthereisformedatthebottomofthevatasedimentofcalcium
sulphateandferrichydrate,anditisnotwisetoincreasethistotoogreatanextent,
whichwouldbethecaseiftoomuchlimeandcopperaswereadded.
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ToUsethisVat.Anyscumonthesurfaceisrakedononeside,thecottonyarn
immersedforafewminutes,thenitistakenout,wrung,allowingtheexcessliquor
toflowbackintothevat,andtheyarnhungupintheairforthebluetodevelop.
Thedepthofshadewhichisdyeddependschieflyupontheamountofindigointhe
vat,andalsouponthetimeduringwhichthehanksaredippedintheliquor.Light
andmediumshadescanbereadilyandconvenientlygotbyasingledip,butdeep
shadesarebestgotbyrepeatingthedippingonceortwiceasoccasiondemands.
Deepshadesgotbyusingastrongbathatasinglediparefoundtorubbadly,while
byrepeateddipsthedyegetsmoreintothesubstanceofthefibre,andthereforethe
colourismorefirmlyfixedanditrubsless.
[Pg201]
Someindigodyershavequitearangeofvats,usingthosefreshmadefordyeing
deepshades,whiletheoldvatsbeingnearlyexhaustedareusedonlyforlight
shadesandfinallywhencompletelyexhaustedarethrownaway.Aftertheday's
workthevatshouldbestirredupandthenallowedtostand.Ifnecessaryitmaybe
strengthenedbytheadditionoffreshquantitiesofindigo,limeandcopperas,the
nextmorningitwillbereadyforuse.Generallyalimecopperasvatwillremainin
goodworkingorderforaboutamonth,whenitwillbenecessarytothrowitaway.
(2)ZincandLimeVat.Zincdustisabyeproductintheprocessofzinc
extraction.Itisagrey,veryheavypowder,consistingmostlyoffinelydivided
metalliczinc,withtracesofoxideandsulphideofzinc.Oftheseonlythemetallic
zincisactiveinreducingtheindigo,therestoftheingredientsarenotofany
consequence.Thevaluationofzincdustisaverydifficultoperation,butitis
desirablethatthisbedone,astheproductisliabletobeveryvariableinthe
proportionofactualzincitcontains,anditwillpaylargebuyersalwaystohaveit
tested.Zincdustmustalwaysbekeptinadryplace.
[Pg202]
Forthereductionofzincpowderlimeischieflyused.Thefollowingaretwogood
mixtures.
Vatwithzincandlime:
10lb.indigo,dryandgroundfine5lb.zincdust22lb.slakedlime,dry.
Thevatissetasfollows,apartofthelimeismixedwiththeindigo,andthetwo
bodiesarewellmixedtogetherandallowedtostandfortenminutes,thenthezinc
powderisadded.Itisbesttomakethisintoasmoothpastewithwaterbefore
addingittotheotheringredients,thentherestofthelimeisaddedandthewholeis
thoroughlystirredtogetherwiththenecessaryquantityofwater.
Vatwithzincpowder,limeandsoda:
10lb.indigo,dryandgroundfine10lb.zincpowder10lb.slakedlime,dry35
lb.causticsodaat11Tw.
Addthelimetothegroundindigo,thenaddthezincandfinallythesodalye.
Soonafterthevariousingredientsofthevatsareaddedtogetherthewholemass
becomeshot,whenitmustbewellstirred.Itsoonbeginstoevolvegasandthe
mixturefroths.Infromtwotofourhourstheevolutionofgasceases.Thedarkblue
solutionnowbecomesyellowandtheliquorshowsallthecharacteristicsofthe
indigovat.Itisnecessarytokeepthevatwellstirredupduringthetimeofsetting,
whichtakesfromfivetosixhours.Ifthereismuchevolutionofgasafterthistime
itindicatesthattoomuchzincpowderhasbeenaddedthisisacommonfaultwith
dyers,andsuchexcesscausesthevattobetoomuchdisturbedandtoworkdirty.A
limezincvat,withoccasionaladditionsofnewmaterials,keepsgoodforthree
[Pg203]
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months,andeventhenisinabetterconditionthanthecopperasvat.
Thisvatisusedinpreciselythesamewayasthecopperasvatasitcontainsno
sediment,orbutlittle,itworkscleanerthanthecopperasvatandasarulethe
indigobluesdyedinitarefastertorubbing.
Afteraday'sworkitcanbewellstirredupandfreshadditionsoflime,zincand
indigomadetobringituptoitsoriginaldyeingstrength.
(3)ZincBisulphiteIndigoVat.Whenzincdustandbisulphiteofsodaaremixed
togetherareactionsetsin,thezincdissolves,andthereisformedsodium
hydrosulphiteandzincandsodiumsulphites.Ifnowindigoismixedwiththis
solutionthesodiumhydrosulphiteexertsareducingactiononit,formingwhite
indigoandsodiumsulphite,aperfectlyclearsolutionbeingobtained,whichmaybe
usedindyeingcottonorwool.
Withthisvatitiscustomarytoprepareastrongstocksolutionofreducedindigo,
andtoaddthistothedyeingvatsasmayberequired.
ToMaketheStockLiquor.Take20lb.ofindigo,grindintoapastewith20
gallonsofboiledwater,thenadd25lb.limeslakedintoamilk.Inaseparatetub
thereismixed80lb.bisulphiteofsoda,70Tw.,with9lb.zincdustthismixture
iswellstirredandeverycaretakentopreventitgettinghot.Whenthezinchas
dissolvedandthemixtureisfreefromanysulphuroussmellitisrunintotheindigo
mixturegivenabove.Thewholeiswellstirredtogetherforsometime,andthenat
intervals,untiltheindigohasbecomedissolved,sufficientwaterisaddedtomake
up50gallons,whenthestockliquorwillbeready.Itshouldhaveadeepyellow
colour.Thesurfacemayhaveascumofabronzycolourcollectonit.Thisstock
liquorshouldbekeptincasksfreefromexposuretotheair.
[Pg204]
Tomaketheworkingvatfromthisstockliquorthefollowingisthemethodof
proceeding:
Waterisrunintothevat,andthisisheatedfrom70to80C.inordertoexpelair
fromit,afterwhichitmaybeallowedtocool,thenforeach1,000gallons
containedinthevatthereisadded30lb.bisulphiteofsoda,3lb.zincdustand3lb.
lime,madeintoacream.Whenalltheseingredientsaredissolvedaquantityofthe
stockliquorisaddedinproportiontotheshadethatitisdesiredtodye.Thewhole
iswellstirred,thenthevatisallowedtorestforhalfanhourtoenableanysediment
tosettle,andthenthedyeingisproceededwith.
Shouldthevatshowsignsofbecominggreenincolouritisagoodplantoadda
mixtureof1lb.zincdustand10lb.bisulphiteofsoda.Thevatshouldbekept
alkaline,andsoalittlelimemaybeaddedfromtimetotime.
Afteraday'sworkitiswelltoaddalittleofthezincandbisulphitemixture,tostir
wellandallowtostandovernightthenextmorningstrengthenupthevatbyadding
freshstockliquor.
Inplaceofusinglimeinmakingupthevatitispossibletouseamixtureofcaustic
sodaandammonia.Thelimewilltendtocausesomesedimenttoforminthevat,
whereasthesodaandammoniawillnot.Whentheyareusedthefollowingmodeof
workingmaybefollowed:
StockLiquor.Sodazincvat:Putinatub26gallonscoldwater,15lb.zinc
powdergroundintoapastewith6gallonswater,thenstirin8gallonsbisulphiteof
sodaat60Tw.,stirwell,keepingtheheatdownasmuchaspossible,afterwhich
add8pintscausticsodalyeat70Tw.and14pints20percent.liquorammonia.
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Whenallisthoroughlymixedadd30lb.indigo,groundintoapastewith7gallons
water,allowtostandforhalfanhour,thenaddwatertomake100gallons,stirat
intervalsfortwelvehoursorso,whenthestockliquorwillbereadyforuse.
[Pg205]
Thisisusedtomakethevatinthesamewayasthefirstabovedescribed.Itis
needfulbeforeaddingthestockliquorinmakingavattodestroyanyoxygenorair
whichispresentinthevat.Thismaymostconvenientlybedonebyaddingthereto
asolutionofhydrosulphiteofsoda,whichmaybemadebymixing4lb.zincdust
with5gallonsofwaterand3gallonsbisulphiteofsodaat70Tw.,stirringwell,so
thatthetemperaturedoesnotrisetoohigh,thereisthenadded2pintscausticsoda
and3pintsliquorammonia,20percent.whenallisdissolved,waterisaddedto
makeup13gallons.
Shouldthevatshowsignsofbecomingchargedwithindigo,indicatedbyits
becomingofagreencolour,alittleofthishydrosulphiteaddedfromtimetotime
willcorrectit.
Thehydrosulphiteindigovatmadebyeitherofthetwomethodsindicatedabove
workswell,andwithduecaremaybekeptinworkformonths.Itgivesgood
shadesofindigo,althoughsomedyersconsiderthatthesehavenottherichbronze
huegotfromthelimeandcopperasvat.Theshadesareratherfastertorubbing.
Ithasbeenproposedtoemploythedyestuffindophenolinconjunctionwith
indigo,inwhichcasethemethodofmakingthevatiswithzinc,bisulphiteofsoda,
causticsodaandammoniaaslastdescribed,onlyinplaceofusingallindigoa
mixtureof22lb.indigoand7lb.indophenolisused.Goodblueshadesof
considerablefastnesscanthusbegot.
AnilineBlack.Thisblackisproduceddirectuponthecottonfibrebyvarious
processeswhichentailtheoxidationofaniline.Thechemicalcompositionand
constitutionofanilineblackhasnotyetbeenworkedout.Itisnotbyanymeansan
easycolourtodye,butstillwithcarefulattentiontocarryingoutthevarious
operationsindetailexcellentresultscanbeattained.
[Pg206]
Anilineblackisthefastestblackwhichisknown,itresistswhenwelldyed
exposuretoairandlight,isquitefasttowashingandsoaping.Itsdisadvantagesare
thatthereis,withsomemethodsofworking,atendencytotenderthecottonfibre,
makingitteareasilysecondly,onexposuretoairittendstoturngreen,this
howeveronlyhappenswhentheblackhasnotbeendyedproperly.
Atthepresentdayitisperhapswithoutdoubtthemostusedofallblacks.The
methodsforproducingitaremanyandvaried,thefollowingrecipesshowhow
someofthefinestanilineblackscanbedyed:
Ungreenableblackisformedwhentheanilineisbytheactionoftheoxidising
agentsconvertedintoasubstancenamednigraniline.Thiscompoundwhenformed
willnotturngreenonthefibreundertheinfluenceofacids.
1.Themostusualoxidisingagentemployedfordyeinganilineblackisbichromate
ofsoda,whichsaltwillbefoundmuchbetterforallpurposesthanbichromateof
potash.Twoseparatesolutionsareprepared:(1)61lb.aniline,9lb.hydrochloric
acidand10gallonsofwaterand(2)12lb.bichromateofsodaand20gallonsof
water.Aftercooling,equalquantitiesofthesesolutionsaremixedandthecotton
workedrapidlythroughthemixture,inafewminutesitassumesabronzeblack.
Thematerialisthenwrungoutandsteamedfortwentyminutesat3lb.pressure,
whichprocessrendersitjetblackandalsoungreenable.
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2.Anotheranilineblack:For100lb.cottonuse11lb.anilineoil,15lb.bichromate
ofsoda,40lb.hydrochloricacidand160gallonswateror12lb.sulphuricacid.The
dyebathisfilledwiththewaterandthecoldsolutionofanilineoilandapartofthe
hydrochloricacidinwaterisfirstadded,afterwardsthebichromateisdissolvedina
[Pg207]
smallquantityofwater,workingcoldatfirstandgraduallyrisingtotheboil.
3.Anothermethodisthefollowingandgivesablackthatisfastandungreenable
andwillnotrub:10lb.chlorateofsoda,10lb.ammoniumchloride,10lb.copper
sulphate,35lb.anilinesalt,101lb.anilineoiland20gallonswater.Thesodium
chlorateandammoniumchloridearedissolvedin6gallonsandthecopper
sulphateseparatelyin5gallonswater.Theanilinesaltisdissolvedinaslittlehot
wateraspossibleandneutralisedwithasmallamountofanilineoil(10lb.).The
solutionofanilinesaltisfirstaddedtothebath,thenthesodiumchlorateand
ammoniumchloride,andlastlythecoppersulphate,dilutethewholeto14Tw.and
thenenterthegoods.Nextsteam,thenrunthroughasolutioncontaining10lb.
bichromateand5lb.sodaper100gallonswaterat160F.,afterwhichthegoods
arewashedanddrysteamedat15lb.pressure.
4.Averygoodblackistheprussiateorsteamanilineblackwhosecheapness
shouldrecommendit.Prepareconcentratedsolutionsof1lb.anilinesaltin1
gallonwater,1lb.ferrocyanideofpotashingallonswaterand1lb.
potassiumchloratein1gallonswater.Mixthesolutionsandworkinajigger,
thensteaminaMather&Plattapparatusfortwominutes,thenworkhotinajigger
inasolutionof2lb.bichromateper50gallonswater,dryandfinish.
Eitherofthesemethodsyieldsagoodfullblackwithalittleexperienceandcare
perfectlyuniformshadeswillbegot.
[Pg208]
CHAPTERV.
DYEINGUNION(MIXEDCOTTONANDWOOL)FABRICS.
Thereisnowproducedagreatvarietyoftextilefabricsofeveryconceivabletexture
bycombiningthetwofibres,cottonandwool,inanumberofwaysthevarietyof
thesefabricshasoflateyearsconsiderablyincreased,whichincreasemaybe
largelyascribedtotheintroductionofthedirectdyeingcolouringmattersthe
Diaminedyes,theBenzodyes,theCongoandtheZambesidyes,forinthedyeing
ofwoolcottonfabricstheyhavemadearevolution.Thedyerofunionfabrics,that
is,fabricscomposedofwoolandcotton,wasformerlyputtogreatstraitstoobtain
uniformshadesonthefabricssuppliedtohim,owingtothedifferenceinthe
affinityofthetwofibresforthedyestuffsthenknown.Nowthedirectdyesafford
himameansofeasilydyeingapieceofcottonwoolclothinanycolourofa
uniformshade,whiletheproductionoftwocolouredeffectsismuchmoreunder
hiscontrol,andhasledtotheincreasedproductionoffigureddressfabrics,with
thegroundinonefibre(wool)andcolour,andthedesigninanotherfibre(cotton)
andcolour.Thenumberofdirectdyesissuedbythevariouscolourmanufacturers
issogreatthatitwouldtakeafairlyconsiderablespacetodiscussthemall.
Toobtaingoodresultsitisneedfulthatthedyerofunionfabricsshouldhavea
thoroughknowledgeofthedyesheisusing,foreachdyemakesaruletoitselfas
regardsitspowerofdyeingwoolandcottonsomegobetterontothecottonthan
ontothewool,andviceversa.Somedyewoolbestattheboil,othersequallywell
[Pg209]
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belowthatheatsomegoonthecottonatamoderatetemperature,othersrequirethe
dyebathtobeboilingsomewillgoontothecottononly,andappeartoignorethe
wool.
Thepresenceorabsenceinthedyebathofsuchbodiesascarbonateofsoda,
Glauber'ssalt,etc.,hasamaterialinfluenceonthedegreeoftheaffinityofthedye
stuffforthetwofibres,aswillperhapsbenotedhereafter.Again,whilesomeofthe
dyesproduceequalcoloursonbothfibres,thereareotherswherethetoneis
different.WithallthesepeculiaritiesoftheDiamineandotherdirectdyestheunion
dyermustmakehimselffamiliar.Thesedyesareusedinneutralbaths,thatis,along
withthedyestuff.Itisoftenconvenienttouse,alongwiththedirectdyes,some
azooraciddyes,whichhavethepropertyofdyeingthewoolfromneutralbaths,
manyexamplesofsuchwillbefoundinthepracticalrecipesgivenbelow.Thedyes
nowunderconsiderationmaybeconvenientlyclassedintofivegroups.
1.Thosedyeswhichdyethecottonandwoolfromthesamebathtothesameshade,
ornearlyso.AmongsuchareThioflavineS,DiaminefastyellowB,Diamine
orangeB,DiamineroseBD,Diaminereds4B,5B,6Band10B,Diaminefast
redF,DiamineBordeauxB,DiaminebrownN,Diaminebrowns3G,BandG,
DiaminebluesRW,BX,DiamineblueG,DiaminegreensGandB,Diamine
blackHW,DiaminedarkblueB,UnionblacksBandS,OxydiamineblacksB,M,
DandA,DiaminecatechineG,UnionblueBB,Oxyphenine,Chloramineyellow,
AlkaliyellowR,ChromineG,TitanscarletS,Mimosa,Curcumine,Primuline,
Auroline,CongoCorinthB,Thiazoleyellow,Columbiayellow,Oxydiamine
yellowGG,OxydiamineorangesGandR,DiamineorangeF,OxydiamineredS.
[Pg210]
2.Dyeswhichdyethecottonadeepershadethanthewool.Thefollowingbelong
tothisgroup:DiaminefastyellowA,DiamineorangesGandD,Diaminecatechine
G,DiaminecatechineB,Diamineskyblue,Diamineblue2B,Diamineblue8B,
DiamineblueBG,DiaminebrilliantblueG,DiaminenewblueR,Diaminesteel
blueL,DiamineblackRO,DiamineblackB0,DiamineblackBH,and
OxydiamineblackSOOO,DiaminenitrazolbrownG,DiamineskyblueFF,
DiaminedarkblueB,DiamineBordeauxB,DiaminevioletN,Oxydiamineviolet
B,ColumbiablacksBandFB,ZambesiblackB,CongobrownG,Directyellow
G,DirectorangeB,Claytonyellow,Cottonyellow,orangeTA,Benzopurpurine
B,BrilliantCongoR,ChicagobluesBand4Band6B.
3.Dyeswhichdyewooladeepershadethanthecotton.Thedyesinthisgroupare
notnumerous.TheyareDiaminegold,DiaminescarletB,Diaminescarlet3B,
DiamineBordeauxS,DiamineblueRW,andDiaminegreenG,DiamineredsN0
andB,ChicagobluesGandR,BrilliantpurpurineR,DiaminescarletB,Delta
purpurine5B,Chrysamine,Titanblue,Titanpink,CongoorangesGandR,Erie
blue2G,CongoR,BrilliantCongoR,ErikaBN,Benzopurpurines4Band10B,
Chrysophenine,Titanyellow,TitanbrownsY,RandO,CongobrownG,Sulphon
azurineB,ZambesiblackB.
4.Dyeswhichproducedifferentshadesonthetwofibres.DiaminebrownG,and
Diamineblue3R,DiaminebrownV,DiaminebrownS,DiaminenitrazolbrownB,
DiaminebluesBXand3R,DiamineblueblackE,BenzoblueblackG,Benzo
purpurine10B,BenzoazurinesR,Gand3G,ColumbiaredS,Brilliantazurine5
G,Titanmarineblue,CongoCorinthsGandB,Azoblue,Hessianviolet,Titan
blue,Azomauve,Congobrown,DiaminebronzeG,ZambesibrownsGand2G,
ZambesiblackF.
5.Azoaciddyes,whichdyewoolfromneutralbaths,andarethereforesuitablefor
shadingupthewooltothecottoninunionfabricdyeing.Amongthedyesthus
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availablemaybeenumerated:NaphtholbluesGandR,Naphtholblueblack,
Formylviolet10B,LanacylblueBB,LanacylblueR,Alkalineblue,Formyl
violetsS4Band6B,Rocceleine,AzoredA,CroceineAZ,Brilliantscarlet,
Orangeextra,OrangeENZ,IndianyellowG,IndianyellowR,TropolineOO,
Naphthylamineblack4BandNaphtholblueblack,BrilliantscarletG,Lanacyl
violetB,BrilliantmillinggreenB,ThiocarmineR,FormylblueB,Naphthylamine
blacksD,4Band6BAzoacidyellow,Curcumineextra,MandarineG,Ponceau3
RB,Acidviolet6B,Guineaviolet4B,GuineagreenB,Woolblack6B.
Regardingthebestmethodsofdyeing,thatinneutralbathsyieldsthemost
satisfactoryresultsinpracticalworking.Itisdoneinaboilinghotorinaslightly
boilingbath,withtheadditionof6oz.crystallisedGlauber'ssaltpergallonwater
forthefirstbath,andwhenthebathsarekeptstanding20percent.crystallised
Glauber'ssalt,reckonedupontheweightofthegoods,foreachsucceedinglot.
Indyeingunions,thedyebathsmustbeasconcentratedaspossible,andmustnot
containmorethanfrom25to30timesasmuchwaterasthegoodsweigh.Inthis
respectitmayserveasaguidethatconcentratedbathsarebestusedwhendyeing
darkshades,whilelightshadescanbedyedinmoredilutedbaths.Themost
importantfactorforproducinguniformdyeingsistheappropriateregulationofthe
temperatureofthedyebath.Concerningthis,thedyermustbearinmindthatthe
directcolourspossessagreateraffinityforthecottonifdyedbelowtheboiling
point,andonlygoonthewoolwhenthebathisboiling,especiallysothelonger
andmoreintenselythegoodsareboiled.
Thefollowingmethodofdyeingisperhapsthebestone:Chargethedyebathwith
[Pg212]
therequisitedyestuffandGlauber'ssalt,boilup,shutoffthesteam,enterthe
goodsandletrunforhalfanhourwithoutsteam,thensample.Iftheshadeofboth
cottonandwoolistoolightaddsomemoreofthedyestuffsusedforbothfibres,
boiluponcemoreandboilforaquartertohalfanhour.Ifthewoolonlyistoo
light,oritsshadedifferentfromthatofthecotton,addsomemoreofthedyestuff
usedforshadingthewoolandbringthemagaintotheboil.If,however,thecotton
turnsouttoolight,ordoesnotcorrespondinshadetothewool,addsomemoreof
thedyestuffsusedfordyeingthecotton,without,however,raisingthetemperature.
Prolongedboilingisonlynecessaryveryrarely,andgenerallyonlyifthegoodsto
bedyedaredifficulttopenetrate,orcontainqualitiesofwoolwhichonlywith
difficultytakeupthedyestuff.Insuchcases,inmakingupthebathdyestuffsare
tobeselectedsomeofwhichgoonlyonthewoolandotherswhichgoonlyonthe
cotton(thosebelongingtothesecondgroup).
Thegoodscanthenbeboiledforsometime,andperfectpenetrationandlevel
shadeswillresult.Ifthewooltakesupthedyestuffeasily(asisfrequentlythecase
withgoodsmanufacturedfromshoddy),andarethereforedyedtoodarkashade,
thendyestuffshavetobeusedwhichprincipallydyethecotton,andatoohigh
temperatureshouldbeavoided.Insuchcasesitisadvisabletodiminishtheaffinity
ofthewoolbytheadditionofonefifthoftheoriginalquantityofGlauber'ssalt
(about3/8oz.pergallonwater),andfromthreequarterstofourfifthsofthedye
stuffusedforthefirstlot.Carehastobetakenthatnotmuchofthedyeliquoris
lostwhentakingoutthedyedgoods,otherwisethequantitiesofGlauber'ssaltand
dyestuffwillhavetobeincreasedproportionately.Woodenvats,suchasare
generallyusedforpiecedyeing,haveprovedthemostsuitable.Theyareheated
withdirect,or,stillbetter,withindirectsteam.Themethodwhichhasprovedmost
advantageousistoletthesteamrunintoaspaceseparatedfromthevatbya
perforatedwall,intowhichspacetherequireddyestuffsandsaltareplaced.
[Pg213]
Themodeofworkingisratherinfluencedbythecharacterofthegoods,andthe
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followingnoteswillbefoundusefulbytheuniondyer:
VerylittledifficultywillbemetwithindyeingsuchlightfabricsasItalians,
cashmere,sergesandsimilarthintextileslightlywovenfromcottonwarpand
woollenweft.Whendeepshades(blacks,darkblues,brownsandgreens),arebeing
dyeditisnotadvisabletomakeupthedyebathwiththewholeofthedyesatonce.
Itismuchbettertoaddtheseinquantitiesofaboutonefourthatatimeatintervals
duringthedyeingofthepiece.Itisfoundthattheaffinityofthewoolforthedyes
attheboilissomuchgreaterthanisthatofthecottonthatitwould,ifthewholeof
thedyewereused,takeuptoomuchofthecolour,andthenwouldcomeuptoo
deepinshade.Nevergiveastrongboilwithsuchfabrics,butkeepthebathjust
undertheboil,whichresultsinthewooldyeingmuchmorenearlyliketocotton.
BrightYellow.Use2lb.ThioflavineSinabathwhichcontains4lb.Glauber's
saltper10gallonsofdyeliquor.
GoodYellow.Averyfinedeepshadeisdyedwith2lb.Diaminegoldand2
lb.DiaminefastyellowA,inthesamewayasthelast.Hereadvantageistakenof
thefactthatwhiletheDiaminegolddyesthewoolbetterthanthecotton,theyellow
dyesthecottonthedeepershade,andbetweenthetwoauniformshadeofyellowis
got.
PaleGoldYellow.Useadyeliquorcontaining4lb.Glauber'ssaltinevery10
gallons,2lb.DiaminefastyellowA,2oz.IndianyellowGand3oz.Indian
yellowR.Inthisrecipethereisusedinthetwolastdyespurelywoolyellows,
whichdyethewoolthesametintasthefastyellowAdyesthecotton.
[Pg214]
BrightYellow.Useinthesamewayasthelast,2lb.DiaminefastyellowBand
3oz.IndianyellowG.
GoldOrange.Useasabove2lb.DiamineorangeG,5oz.IndianyellowKand
1oz.OrangeENZ.
DeepOrange.Use2lb.DiamineorangeDC,6oz.OrangeENZ,and3oz.
IndianyellowR.
Black.Use4lb.UnionblackS,2oz.DiaminefastyellowA,5oz.Naphthol
blueblackand3oz.FormylvioletS4B,with4lb.Glauber'ssaltineach10
gallonsdyeliquor.
NavyBlue.Use1lb.UnionblackS,3lb.DiamineblackBH,oz.Naphthol
blueblack,lb.FormylvioletS4Band2oz.alkalineblueB.
RedPlum.Useadyebathcontaining2lb.OxydiaminevioletBand3oz.
FormylvioletS4B.
DarkGreen.Afineshadecanbedyedinabathcontaining3lb.DiaminegreenB
and1lb.DiamineblackHW.
DarkSlate.Use4lb.DiamineblackHW,2oz.Naphtholblueblackand3oz.
AzoredA.
Sage.Useadyebathcontaining4lb.DiaminebronzeGand1oz.Naphthol
blueblack.
DarkBrown.Afinedarkshadeisgotfrom2lb.DiaminebrownVand2oz.
Naphtholblueblack.
PeacockGreen.Use3lb.DiaminesteelblueL,13oz.DiaminefastyellowB,
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14oz.ThiocarmineKand2oz.IndianyellowGinabathof4lb.Glauber'ssalt
pergallondyeliquor.
DarkSeaGreen.Use9oz.DiaminesteelblueL,3oz.DiaminefastyellowB,
oz.DiamineorangeG,1oz.Naphtholblueblackandoz.IndianyellowG.
DarkBrown.Use1lb.DiamineorangeB,1lb.DiamineFastyellowS,13oz.
UnionblackS,1lb.DiaminebrownMandlb.IndianyellowG.Fixinanalum
bathafterdyeing.
DarkStone.Uselb.DiamineorangeB,3oz.Unionblack,oz.Diamine
BordeauxB,1oz.AzoredAandoz.Naphtholblueblack.
[Pg215]
Black.Averyfineblackcanbegotfrom3lb.OxydiamineblackBM,2lb.
UnionblackS,9oz.Naphtholblueblackand4oz.FormylvioletS4B.
DarkGrey.Afinebluishshadeofgreyisgotfrom7oz.DiamineblackBH,2
oz.DiamineorangeG,2oz.DiamineorangeG,2oz.Naphtholblueblackand
1oz.OrangeENZ.
DarkBlue.Afineshadeisgotbyusing2lb.DiamineblackBH,lb.Diamine
blackHW,and3oz.Alkalineblue6B.
Drab.Use3oz.DiamineorangeB,oz.Unionblack,1/8oz.Diamine
BordeauxB,oz.AzoredAandoz.Naphtholblueblack.
Plum.Use2lb.DiaminevioletN,9oz.Unionblackand1lb.FormylvioletS
4B.
BrightYellow.Useadyebathcontaining4lb.ThioflavineS,2lb.Naphthol
yellowS,10lb.Glauber'ssaltand2lb.aceticacid.
Pink.Use1/6oz.DiamineRoseBD,oz.DiaminescarletB,oz.Rhodamine
Band20lb.Glauber'ssalt.
Scarlet.Afineshadeisgotfrom1lb.DiaminescarletB,oz.Diaminered5B
Orange.Useadyebathcontaining3lb.DiamineorangeG,14oz.
TropolineOO,and2oz.Orangeextra.
SkyBlue.Use1oz.Diamineskyblueand1oz.AlkalineblueB.
BrightBlue.Afineshadesimilartothatformerlyknownasroyalblueisgotby
using1lb.DiaminebrilliantblueGand9oz.Alkalineblue6B.
Maroon.Use3lb.DiamineBordeauxB,2lb.DiaminevioletNand3oz.
FormylvioletS4B.
Green.Afinegreensimilarinshadetothatusedforbilliardtableclothisgot
from2lb.DiaminefastyellowB,2lb.DiaminesteelblueL,14oz.Thiocarmine
Rand7oz.IndianyellowG.
[Pg216]
GoldBrownAfinebrownisgotfrom3lb.DiamineorangeB,lb.Unionblack,
2oz.Diaminebrown,oz.Naphtholblueblackandlb.IndianyellowG.
NavyBlue.Use3lb.DiamineblackBH,1lb.DiaminebrilliantblueGand
lb.Alkalineblue.
FawnDrab.Afineshadeisgotbydyeinginabathcontaining6oz.Diamine
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orangeB,1lb.Unionblack,oz.Naphtholblueblack,oz.DiamineBordeaux
Band1oz.AzoredA.
InallthesecoloursthedyebathscontainGlauber'ssaltattherateof4lb.per10
gallons.
DarkBrown.2lb.DiamineorangeB,13oz.DiamineBordeauxB,1lb.
DiaminefastyellowB,1lb.Unionblackand3oz.Naphtholblack.
Drab.1lb.DiaminefastyellowR,3oz.DiamineBordeauxB,2oz.Union
black,oz.Naphtholblueblackand1oz.IndianyellowG.
DarkBlue.Useinthedyebath4lb.DiaminedarkblueB,1lb.Diamine
brilliantblueG,lb.FormylvioletS4Band5oz.Naphtholblueblack.
BlueBlackUse3lb.UnionblackS,1lb.OxydiamineblackBM,6oz.
Naphtholblueblackandlb.FormylvioletS4B.
DarkWalnut.2lb.DiaminebrownM,1lb.UnionblackS,and11oz.
IndianyellowG.
PeacockGreen.Useinthedyebath3lb.DiamineblackHW,51/6oz.Diamine
fastyellowB,1lb.ThiocarmineRand11/6oz.IndianyellowG.
SlateBlue.Useinthedyebath6oz.DiaminecarechineB,4oz.Diamine
orangeB,2oz.Unionblack,2oz.OrangeENZ,and1oz.Naphtholblue
black.
[Pg217]
DarkSage.Agoodshadeisdyedwith1lb.DiamineorangeB,6oz.Union
black,1oz.DiaminebrownM,3oz.azoredAand2oz.Naphtholblueblack.
NavyBlue.Use2lb.DiaminedarkblueB,1lb.LanacylvioletB,and7oz.
Naphtholblueblack.
BronzeGreen.Agoodshadeisdyedwith2lb.DiamineorangeB,5oz.Diamine
brownN,lb.UnionblackS,1lb.IndianyellowGand2oz.Naphtholblue
black.
Black.Use2lb.OxydiamineblackBMand1>lb.Naphthylamineblack6B.
Anotherrecipe,2lb.OxydiamineblackBM,1lb.DiaminebrownM,1lb.
OrangeENZand2oz.Naphtholblueblack.
DarkBrown.Use1lb.OxydiamineblackBM,15oz.DiaminebrownM,1
lb.IndianyellowGand2oz.Naphtholblueblack.Anothercombination,1lb.
OxydiamineblackBM,1lb.OrangeENZ,1lb.IndianyellowGand5oz.
Naphtholblueblack.
Scarlet.3lb.Benzopurpurine4B,oz.Ponceau3RBandlb.CurcumineS.
Crimson.lb.CongoCorinthG,2lb.Benzopurpurine10Bandlb.
CurcumineS.
BrightBlue.2lb.Chicagoblue6B,3oz.Alkaliblue6B,1oz.ZambesiblueR
X.Afterdyeingrinseanddevelopinabathof8oz.sulphuricacidin10gallonsof
water,thenrinsewell.
DarkBlue.2lb.Columbiafastblue2G,3oz.SulphonazurineD,8oz.Alkali
blue6B.Afterdyeingrinseanddevelopinabathof8oz.sulphuricacidin20
gallonsofwater.
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Orange.9oz.CongobrownG,1lb.Mikadoorange4ROand1oz.
MandarineG.
DarkGreen.2lb.Columbiagreen,lb.SulphonazurineD,1lb.ZambesiblueB
X,1oz.CurcumineS.
Black.4lb.ColumbiablackFBand2lb.Woolblack6B.
PaleSageGreen.5oz.ZambesiblackD,lb.ChrysophenineGand1lb.
CurcumineS.
[Pg218]
Slate.lb.ZambesiblackD,oz.ZambesiblueRX,oz.Mikadoorange4R
0and1oz.Acidviolet6B.
DarkGrey.1lb.ColumbiablackFB,3oz.ZambesiblackBandoz.Sulphon
azurineD.
Drab.1oz.ZambesiblackD,oz.MandarineGextra,oz.Curcumineextra
and3oz.Mikadoorange4RO.
Brown.5oz.ZambesiblackD,oz.MandarineGextra,1oz.OrangeTAand
2oz.Mikadoorange4R0.
NutBrown.lb.CongobrownG,lb.ChicagoblueRWandlb.Mikado
orange4R0.
DarkBrown.1lb.CongobrownG,1lb.Benzopurpurine4B,1lb.Zambesi
blackFandlb.Woolblack6B.
Stone.1oz.ZambesiblackD,oz.MandarineG,oz.Curcumineextraand1
oz.Mikadoorange4R0.
SlateGreen.3oz.ZambesiblackD,1oz.GuineagreenB.
SageBrown.lb.ZambesiblackD,1oz.MandarineGextra,3oz.Curcumine
extra,3oz.Acidviolet6B,6oz.Mikadoorange4R0and4oz.CurcumineS.
CornflowerBlue.3oz.Chicagoblue4R,lb.ZambesiblueRX,lb.Acid
violet6Bandoz.ZambesibrownG.
DarkBrown.1lb.BrilliantorangeG,lb.OrangeTA,1lb.ColumbiablackF
Bandlb.Woolblack6B.
DarkBlue.2lb.ChicagoblueW,1lb.ZambesiblueRX,lb.Columbiablack
FB,10oz.GuineagreenBandlb.Guineaviolet4B.
TheJanusdyesmaybeusedforthedyeingofhalfwool(union)fabrics.Thebest
planofworkingistoprepareabathwith5lb.ofsulphateofzincinthisthegoods
areworkedattheboilforfiveminutes,thenthereisaddedthedyespreviously
dissolvedinwater,andtheworkingcontinuedforaquarterofanhourthereisthen
added20lb.Glauber'ssalt,andtheworkingattheboilcontinuedforonehour,at
[Pg219]
theendofwhichtimethedyebathwillbefairlywellexhaustedofcolour.The
goodsarenowtakenoutandputintoafixingbathofsumacortannin,inwhich
theyaretreatedforfifteenminutestothissamebaththereisnextaddedtartar
emeticand1lb.sulphuricacid,andtheworkingcontinuedforaquarterofanhour,
thenthebathisheatedto160F.,whenthegoodsarelifted,rinsedanddried.Inthe
recipesthequantitiesofthedyes,sumacortanninandtartaremeticaregivenonly,
theotheringredientsandprocessesarethesameinall.
DarkBlue.2lb.JanusdarkblueBandlb.JanusgreenBinthedyebath,and
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16lb.sumacextractand2lb.tartaremeticinthefixingbath.
BlueBlack.3lb.JanusblackIandlb.JanusblackIIinthedyebath,and16
lb.sumacextractand2lb.tartaremeticinthefixingbath.
DarkBrown.2lb.JanusbrownB,1lb.JanusblackI,3oz.JanusyellowG
and5oz.JanusredBinthedyebath,with16lb.sumacextractand2lb.tartar
emeticinthefixingbath.
Drab.1oz.JanusyellowR,oz.JanusredB,1oz.JanusblueRandoz.
JanusgreyBBinthedyebath,and4lb.sumacextractand1lb.tartaremeticinthe
fixingbath.
Grey.5oz.JanusblueR,3oz.JanusgreyB,1oz.JanusyellowRandoz.
JanusredBinthedyebath,with4lb.sumachextractand1lb.tartaremeticinthe
fixingbath.
NutBrown.1lb.JanusbrownR,8oz.JanusyellowRand1oz.JanusblueBin
thedyebath,and8lb.sumacextractand1lb.tartaremeticinthefixingbath.
WalnutBrown.3lb.JanusbrownB,1lb.JanusredB,1lb.JanusyellowR,1
oz.JanusgreenBinthedyebath,with8lb.sumacextractand1lb.tartaremeticin
thefixingbath.
Crimson.2lb.JanusredBand8oz.JanusclaretredBinthedyebath,with8
lb.sumacextractand1lb.tartaremeticinthefixingbath.
[Pg220]
DarkGreen.1lb.JanusgreenB,1lb.JanusyellowRand8oz.JanusgreyB
Binthedyebath,with12lb.sumacextractand1lb.tartaremeticinthefixing
bath.
ChestnutBrown.1lb.JanusbrownRand1lb.JanusyellowRinthedyebath,
and8lb.sumacextractand1lb.tartaremeticinthefixingbath.
Beforetheintroductionofthedirectdyesthemethodusuallyfollowed,and,indeed
stillusedtoagreatextent,isthatknownascrossdyeing.Thegoodswerewoven
withdyedcottonthreadsoftherequiredshade,andundyedwoollenthreads.After
weavingandcleansingthewoollenpartofthefabricwasdyedwithaciddyes,such
asAcidmagenta,ScarletR,Acidyellow,etc.Insuchmethodscarehastobetaken
thatthedyesusedfordyeingthecottonaresuchasstandacids,abynomeanseasy
conditiontofulfilatonetime.Manyofthedirectdyesarefasttoacidsand,
therefore,lendthemselvesmoreorlessreadilytocrossdyeing.Fordetailsofthe
dyesforcottonreferencemaybemadetothesectionsondyeingwiththedirect
colours,page85,etc.,whileinformationastomethodsofdyeingthewoolwillbe
foundinthecompanionvolumetothisonDyeingofWoollenFabrics.
ShotEffects.Apleasingkindoftextilefabricwhichisnowmade,andisagreat
favouriteforladies'dressgoods,iswherethecottonofamixedfabricisthrownup
toformafigureddesign.Itispossibletodyethetwofibresindifferentcolours,and
soproduceavarietyofshoteffects.Theselatteraresoendlessthatitisimpossible
heretoenumerateallthatmaybeproduced.Itwillhavetosufficetolaydownthe
lineswhichmaybefollowedtothebestadvantage,andthengivesomerecipesto
illustratetheremarksthathavebeenmade.Thebestplanfortheproductionofshot
effectsuponunionfabricsistotakeadvantageofthepropertyofcertainaciddyes
[Pg221]
whichdyeonlythewoolinanacidbath,andofmanyofthedirectcolourswhich
willonlydyethecottoninanalkalinebath.Theprocess,workingontheselines,
becomesasfollows:Thewoolisfirstdyedinanacidbathwiththeadditionof
Glauber'ssaltandbisulphateofsoda,orsulphuricacid,thegoodsarethenwashed
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withwatercontainingalittleammoniatofreethemfromtheacid,andafterwards
dyedwiththedirectcolourinanalkalinebath.
Fancyorthemodeshadesareobtainedbycombiningsuitabledyestuffs.
Ifthecottonistobedyedinlightshadesitisadvantageoustodyeontheliquorat
65to80F.,withtheadditionof3oz.Glauber'ssalt,andfrom20to40grains
boraxpergallonwater.Theadditionofanalkaliisadvisableinordertoneutralise
anyslightquantitiesofacidwhichmayhaveremainedinthewool,andtoprevent
thedyestufffromdyeingthecottontoodeepashade.
Verylightshadescanalsobedoneonthepaddingmachine.Thedyestuffsof
GroupII.,whichhavebeenpreviouslyenumerated,donotstainthewoolatall,or
onlyveryslightly,andare,therefore,themostsuitable.Lessbrighteffectscanbe
producedbysimplydyeingthegoodsinonebath.Thewoolisfirstdyedattheboil
withtherespectivewooldyestuffinaneutralbath,thesteamisthenshutoffand
thecottondyedbyaddingthecottondyestufftothebath,anddyeingwithoutagain
heating.Bypassingthegoodsthroughcoldwatertowhichsomesulphuricoracetic
acidisadded,thebrightnessofmosteffectsisgreatlyincreased.
GoldandGreen.Firstbath,1lb.Cyanoleextra,7oz.Acidgreen,1oz.
OrangeGG,and10lb.bisulphateofsodaworkattheboilforonehour,thenlift
andrinsewell.Secondbath,4lb.DiamineorangeGand15lb.Glauber'ssaltwork
inthecoldoratalukewarmheat.Thirdbath,at120F.,4oz.Chrysoidineand
oz.Safranine.
[Pg222]
BlackandBlue.Firstbath,3lb.Naphtholblack3Band10lb.bisulphateof
soda.Secondbath,2lb.Diamineskyblueand13lb.Glauber'ssalt.Thirdbath,6
oz.NewMethyleneblueN.Workasinthelastrecipe.
GreenandClaret.Firstbath,3lb.NaphtholredCand10lb.bisulphateofsoda.
Secondbath,2lb.DiamineskyblueFF,1lb.ThioflavineS,and15lb.Glauber's
salt.
GoldBrownandBlue.Firstbath,2oz.orangeENZ,1oz.OrangeGG,
oz.Cyanoleextraand10lb.bisulphateofsoda.Secondbath,14oz.Diaminesky
DarkBrownandBlue.Firstbath,lb.OrangeGG,1oz.OrangeENZ,1
oz.Cyanoleextraand10lb.bisulphateofsoda.Secondbath,12oz.Diaminesky
BlackandGreenBlue.Firstbath,3lb.OrangeGG,1lb.Brilliantcochineal4R,
1lb.FastacidgreenBNand10lb.Glauber'ssalt.Secondbath,1lb.Diaminesky
blueFF,3lb.ThioflavineSand15lb.Glauber'ssalt.
Wemayherenotethatinalltheaboverecipesthesecondbath(fordyingthe
cotton)shouldbeusedcoldoratlukewarmheatandasstrongaspossible.Itisnot
completelyexhaustedofcolour,onlyaboutonehalfgoingonthefibre.Ifkeptasa
standingbaththisfeatureshouldbeborneinmind,andlessdyestuffusedinthe
dyeingofthesecondandfollowinglotsofgoods.
BlueandGoldYellow.3lb.DiamineorangeG,13oz.NaphtholblueG,14oz.
FormylvioletS4Band15lb.Glauber'ssalt.Workatjustundertheboil.
BrownandBlue.1lb.DiaminesteelblueL,9oz.Diamineskyblue,1lb.
OrangeENZ,1lb.IndianyellowG,1oz.Naphtholblueblackand15lb.
Glauberssalt.Workat170to180F.
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[Pg223]
Inthesetwolastrecipesonlyonebathisused,allthedyesbeingaddedatonce.
Thisispossibleifcarebetakenthatdyestuffsoftwokindsareused,oneormore
whichwilldyewoolandnotcottonfromneutralbaths,andthosedirectdyeswhich
dyecottonbetterthanwool.Thetemperatureshouldalsobekeptbelowtheboiland
carefullyregulatedastheoperationproceedsandtheresultsbegintoshow
themselves.
GreyandOrange.Firstbath,3oz.Orangeextra,1lb.Cyanoleextra,1lb.Azo
redAand10lb.bisulphateofsoda.Secondbath,5oz.DiamineorangeDCand3
oz.DiaminefastyellowB.
GreenandRed.Firstbath,2lb.CroceineAZ,and10lb.Glauber'ssalt.Second
bath,1lb.DiamineskyblueFF,lb.ThioflavineS,and15lb.Glauber'ssalt.
BrownandViolet.Firstbath,lb.Orangeextra,lb.Cyanoleextra,and10lb.
bisulphateofsoda.Secondbath,5oz.DiaminebrilliantblueG,and15lb.
Glauber'ssalt.
BlackandYellow.Firstbath,7lb.NaphtholblackB,lb.FastyellowS,and10
lb.bisulphateofsoda.Secondbath3lb.DiaminefastyellowA,and15lb.
Glauber'ssalt.
BlackandPink.Blackasabove.PinkwithDiamineroseBD(seeabove).
GreenandBuff.Firstbath,lb.Orangeextra,oz.FastyellowS,and10lb.
bisulphateofsoda.Secondbath,lb.DiamineskyblueFF,lb.ThioflavineS,
OrangeandViolet.Firstbath,9oz.Orangeextra,and10lb.bisulphateofsoda.
Secondbath,lb.DiaminevioletN,and10lb.Glauber'ssalt.
BlackandBlue.Firstbath,Naphtholblackasgivenabove.Secondbath,Diamine
skyblueasgivenabove.
BlackandYellow.Addfirst1lb.Woolblack6B,and10lb.Glauber'ssalt,then,
whenthewoolhasbeendyed,add2lb.CurcumineStodyethecottoninthesame
bath.
[Pg224]
GreenandRed.Dyethewoolbyusing3lb.GuineagreenB,lb.Curcumeine
extra,and10lb.Glauber'ssalt,thenaddtothebathlb.ErikaBN,andlb.
CongoCorinthG.
OrangeandBlue.Dyethewoolfirstwith1lb.MandarineG,2oz.Woolblack
6B,and10lb.Glauber'ssaltthenthecottonwith2lb.ColumbiablueG.
BlueandOrange.Dyethewoolfirstwithlb.GuineavioletB,lb.Guinea
greenB,and10lb.Glauber'ssaltthendyethecottonwith2lb.Mikadoorange4R
O.
GreenandOrange.Dyethewoolwith3lb.GuineagreenB,lb.Curcumeine
extra,and10lb.Glauber'ssalt,thendyethecottoninthesamebathwith1lb.
Mikadoorange4RO.
[Pg225]
CHAPTERVI.
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DYEINGHALFSILK(COTTONSILK,SATIN)FABRICS.
ThedirectdyesoftheDiamine,BenzoandCongotypeshavebeenoflateyears
increasinglyusedfordyeingsatin(silkandcotton),andtheyhavequitedisplaced
theoldmethodsofdyeingthisclassoffabrics,whichconsistedinfirstdyeingthe
silkwithanaciddyeandthendyeingthecottonwithabasicdye.Fordetailsofthe
methodofapplyingaciddyestosilkreferencemaybemadetoMr.G.H.Hurst's
bookonSilkDyeing.
Mostofthedirectcoloursareexceedinglywelladaptedforthispurpose,some
undercertainconditionspossessthepropertyofdyeingthecottonadeepershade
thanthesilk,whichisanadvantageratherthanotherwise.
Thedyeingofgoodscomposedofsilkandcottonisgenerallydoneinwinchdye
vats,insomecasesalsoonthejigger.
METHODOFDYEING.
Thedirectcoloursareasaruledyedinasoapbathwithadditionofphosphateof
soda,Glauber'ssaltorcommonsaltandalittlesoda.
Theadditionofthesesaltseffectsabetterexhaustionofthebathstheyare
thereforeprincipallyusedfordarkandfullshades,whilstpaleshadesaredyedwith
theadditionofsoaponlyorincombinationwithphosphateofsoda.Darkorpale
shadesmaythusbeproducedatwillbyselectingtheproperadditions,butthefact
shouldnotbeoverlookedthatthegreaterexhaustionofthebathsnotonlyincreases
thedepthofshadeofthecottonbutalsocausesthesilktoabsorbmoredyestuff.
Toolargeaproportionofsaltwouldcausethedyestuffstogoonthefibretoo
quicklyandthusmakethedyeingliabletoturnoutuneven.
[Pg226]
Alargeproportionofsoapcounteractstheeffectsofthesalts,causingthedyestuff
togoonlessquicklyandtendingtoleavethesilklighterthanthecotton,insome
casesevenalmostwhite,apropertywhichisvaluableinmanycases,especiallyas
enablingthesilkandcottontobedyedindifferentcolourstoobtainshoteffects.
Itisthusobviousthatageneralmethodapplicableinallcasescannotbegivenit
willvaryaccordingtotheeffectdesired,andpartlyalsodependonthematerialto
bedyed.
Thefollowingparticularsmayserveasaguideforthefirstbath:
Forpaleshadeseach10gallonsdyeliquorshouldcontain3to6oz.soapand4
to7drs.sodaor3to6oz.soap,4to5drs.sodaand3to6oz.phosphate
ofsoda.
Formediumanddarkshadeseach10gallonsdyeliquormaycontain3to6oz.
soap,4to7drs.soda,3to6oz.phosphateofsodaand6to13oz.cryst.
Glauber'ssalt.
Fortwocolouredeffectsordyeings,inwhichthesilkisintendedtoremainaspale
aspossibleorevenwhite,each10gallonsdyeliquormaycontain4to8oz.soap,
4to6drs.soda,3to8oz.phosphateofsodaand4to9oz.cryst.Glauber's
salt.
Thetemperatureofthedyebathsisgenerally175to195F.inpracticaldyeingit
isusualtoboilupthefullychargeddyebath,shutoffthesteam,enterthegoods
anddyeforaboutthreequartersofanhour.
Forobtainingleveldyeingsinpaleshadesitisadvisablenottoenterthegoodstoo
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hot,buttoraisethetemperaturegradually.Raisingthetemperature,ordyeingfor
sometimeattheboilwilldeepentheshadeofthecotton,butatthesametimewill
havethesameeffectonthesilkwhichmaysometimesbeanadvantagewhen
dyeingdarkshades.
[Pg227]
Asacompleteexhaustionofthebathsdoesnottakeplace,especiallywhendyeing
darkshades,itisadvantageous,nay,evenimperative,topreservethebathsfor
furtheruse,theyarethenreplenishedwithonlyaboutthreefourthsofthequantities
ofdyestuffsusedforthefirstbath,ofthesoaponlyaboutonefourth,ofGlauber's
salt,sodaandphosphateofsodaonlyaboutonefifth,ofthefirstquantitiesare
necessary.
Thefirstbathshouldbepreparedwithcondensedwater.Ifnoneisathandordinary
watershouldbeboiledupwithsodaandsoapandthescumremoved.Clearsoap
bathsareabsolutelynecessaryfortheproductionofpureshadesandcleanpieces.
Afterdyeing,thepiecesmustbeverywellrinsed,andthecolourraisedor
brightenedwith1pintofaceticacidin10gallonsofwater.
ManyoftheDiamineandTitancoloursbeingveryfasttoacids,butfewofthem
willbeaffectedbythistreatment.
InthefollowingtablesaregiventhoseDiamine,etc.,coloursespeciallyadaptedfor
thedyeingofgoodscomposedofsilkandcotton,dividedintothreegroups
accordingtotheirrelationtosilkandcotton:
1.Dyestuffspossessingagreataffinitytocottonandtintingthesilknotatallor
onlyverylittle.TothisclassbelongChicagoblues,Benzoblues,Diaminefast
yellowA,DiamineorangeGG,DiamineorangeDC,DiamineblueBB,Diamine
blue3B,DiamineskyblueFF,DiaminebrilliantblueG,DiamineralblueE,
DiamineblackB,Mikadobrowns,Mikadooranges,Mikadoyellows.
[Pg228]
2.Dyestuffsproducingoncottonandsilkthesameornearlythesameshadebut
coveringthecottonbetterthanthesilk.TheseareThioflavineS,DiamineyellowN,
Diaminegold,DiaminefastyellowB,DiamineorangeB,DiaminegreyG,
DiamineroseBD,DiaminescarletS,DiaminescarletB,Diaminescarlet3B,
Diaminered5B,DiaminefastredF,DiamineBordeauxB,DiamineBordeauxS,
DiaminevioletN,OxydiaminevioletB,DiamineblueRW,DiamineblackHW,
DiaminesteelblueL,DiaminedarkblueB,UnionblackS,OxydiamineblackD,
Diaminogeneextra,DiaminogeneB,DiaminebrownM,Diaminebrown3G,
DiaminegreenB,DiaminegreenG.
3.Dyestuffsproducingoncottonmoreorlessdifferentshadesthanonsilk.This
groupcomprisesDiamineblueCB,DiamineblueBG,DiamineblueBX,
Diamineazoblue2R,Diamineblue3R,DiamineblueblackE,DiamineblackR
O,OxydiamineblackSOOO,DiaminebrownV,DiaminebrownB,Diamine
bronzeG.CottonbrownNproducesonsilkdarkershadesthanoncotton.
Ofcoursethisclassificationcannotbetakenasabsolutelycorrect,asbyraisingor
loweringthetemperatureduringthedyeingprocessorbyalargerorsmaller
additionofsoaporGlauber'ssalt(commonsalt,phosphateofsoda),thedyestuffs
aremoreorlessinfluencedinoneortheotherdirection.DiaminevioletN,for
instance,whendyedwithanincreasedadditionofsoapwoulddyethecotton
somewhatlighter,butatthesametimeleavethesilkperfectlywhite.
ToppingwithBasicandAcidDyestuffs.Asinveryfewcasesonlythedesired
shadecanbeobtainedinthefirstinstancebybottomingwithdirectcolours,topping
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generallyhastoberesortedto.Thisisbestdonewithbasicdyes,insomecasesalso
withaciddyestuffsincoldortepidbathwithadditionofsulphuricacid,
hydrochloricoraceticacid.Theuseofaciddyestuffsisrestrictedtocaseswhere
thesilkaloneistobeshaded.Inmostcasesbasicdyestuffsaremadeuseof,which [Pg229]
dyesilkandcottonthesameshadeanddeepentheshadeofthecottonifthelatter
hasasufficientlygoodbottom,thusgivingthegoodsabetterandfullerappearance.
Itisnotadvisabletoemploybasicandaciddyestuffsinthesamebathexceptwhen
thequantitiesofeitherclassareverysmall.Shoulditbenecessarytodyewithlarge
quantitiesofbothclasses,theaciddyestuffsarefirstdyedinatepidacidbathand
thenthegoodsaretoppedwiththebasicdyestuffsinafreshcoldbathwiththe
additionofalittlehydrochloricoraceticacid.
Ofthebasicdyestuffswhichareavailable,thefollowingarethemostsuitablefor
topping:NewmethyleneblueN,andotherbrandsNewblueDandotherbrands
Cresylblue,MethylindoneBandR,Metaphenyleneblue,Indazinethevarious
brandsofBrilliantgreen,SolidgreenandMalachitegreen,Caprigreen,Cresyl
violet,ThioflavineT,NewphosphineG,TanninorangeR,andthevariousbrands
ofBismarckbrownSafranine,Magentaallbrands,Tanninheliotrope,allbrandsof
Neutralviolet,Methylviolet.
Oftheaciddyestuffs,thefollowingaregoodfortoppingorshadingthesilk:
Cyanoleextra,IndigoblueN,IndigoblueSGN,andthevariousbrandsofWater
blue,Solubleblue,Solidblue,andIndulinethevariousbrandsofAcidgreenand
FastacidgreenIndianyellowGandR,NaphtholyellowS,TropolineOandO
O,andthevariousbrandsofMillingyellowandOrangeAzoredA,AzorubineA,
ArchilsubstituteN,AzoorseilleBB,BrilliantorseilleC,andthevariousbrandsof
Eosine,Erythrosine,Rosebengale,Rhodamine,BrilliantcroceineandBrilliant
scarletthevariousbrandsofFormylvioletandAcidvioletAnilinegreyBand
Nigrosine,solubleinwater.
BrightYellow.Use2lb.ThioflavineS.
[Pg230]
DeepOrangeYellow.Thiscanbedyedbyusing2lb.DiamineyellowN.
GoldYellow.Dyewith2lb.Diaminegold.Somecaremustbetakenwiththis,
especiallynottodyetoohotorthesilkwillbedyeddeeperthanthecotton.
DeepOrange.Use2lb.DiamineorangeB.
BrightRose.Use2lb.DiamineRoseBD.Donotworktoohigh,especiallywhen
dyeinglightroseshades,asthenthesilkisapttotakeuptoomuchcolour.
Scarlet.Useinthedyebath2lb.DiaminescarletHS.Theheatofthedyebath
shouldnotbeallowedtoexceed160to170F.,orthereisariskoftheshades
becomingsomewhatduller.
Crimson.Dyewith2lb.DiaminefastredF.
Violet.Use2lb.OxydiaminevioletB.
BrightBlue.Afineshadeisdyedwith2lb.DiamineblueRW.
DarkGreen.Use2lb.DiamineblackHW.Thisgivesafineshadeofbluish
green.
GoldBrown.Dyewith2lb.Diaminebrown3Gatalowheat,from150to160
F.,otherwisethesilktakesuptoomuchcolour.
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DarkGreen.Dyewith2lb.DiaminegreenB.
DeepRose.Dyewith2lb.Diaminered10B.
BrilliantYellow.Dyewith1lb.Mikadogoldenyellow8Gthenenterintoa
coldbathwhichcontains1percent.AuramineII.Thisgivesaverybrightshade
ofyellow.
DarkBrown.Dyeabottomwith2lb.Mikadobrown3GO,andthentopwith3
lb.Bismarckbrownandlb.CapriblueGON.
Crimson.Dyewith2lb.Mikadoorange5ROand2lb.HessianpurpleN.
SageGreen.Dyeabottomwith2lb.MikadoyellowG,14oz.EboligreenTand
3oz.MikadobrownM,thentopinafreshcoldbathwithlb.AuramineIIand
oz.AcridineOrangeN0.
[Pg231]
LeafGreen.Dyeabottomwith3lb.Mikadogoldenyellow8Gand1lb.Eboli
blueBthentopwith1lb.Caprigreen2Ginacoldbath.
DeepBrown.Dyewith2lb.Mikadoorange3RO,3lb.HessiangreySand1lb.
Hessianbrown2BNthentopwith7oz.AzinegreenT0and2lb.Acridine
orangeN0.
DarkCream.Bottomwith1oz.DiamineorangeGthentopinafreshwarmbath
with1oz.OrangeGG,oz.IndianyellowR,5lb.Glauber'ssaltand1lb.acetic
acid.
BrilliantViolet.Giveabottomwith1lb.DiaminevioletNthentopinafresh
warmbathwith4oz.MethylvioletBand2oz.Rhodamine.
Slate.Bottominahotbathwith6oz.DiaminedarkblueBand1oz.Diamine
brownMthentopinafreshbathat170F.with4oz.AnilinegreyB,1oz.
Cyanoleextra,5lb.Glauber'ssaltand1lb.aceticacid.
BlackBrown.Giveabottomwith2lb.CottonbrownA,1lb.Diaminegoldand
3lb.OxydiamineblackSOOOthentopinafreshbathat120F.with4oz.
NewmethyleneblueN,1oz.Safranineandoz.IndianyellowG.
BrightViolet.Uselb.OxydiaminevioletBandoz.DiaminedarkblueBtop
afterdyeingwithoz.Safranine,oz.MethylindoneBandoz.Cyanoleextra.
Drab.Dyewith6oz.DiamineorangeG,1lb.DiaminebronzeGandlb.
DiaminebrownM,toppingafterwardsinabathofoz.AnilinegreyBandoz.
BismarckbrownFF.
LeafGreen.Dyewithlb.DiamineblackHW,and1lb.DiaminefastyellowB
topwithoz.Brilliantgreen,oz.IndianyellowR,oz.ThioflavineTand
oz.Cyanoleextra.
DarkCrimson.Useinthedyebath3lb.DiamineBordeauxS,lb.Diamine
orangeDCand1lb.DiaminebrownV,toppingwith1oz.Magentaandoz.
FormylvioletS4B.
[Pg232]
TurquoiseBlue.Usetodyetheground,6oz.DiamineskyblueFFandoz.
DiaminefastyellowAtopwith1oz.Cyanoleextraandoz.Brilliantgreen.
DarkGrey.Dyewithoz.DiaminegreyG,and1oz.DiaminebrownMtop
withoz.Orangeextraand1oz.Cyanoleextra.
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BrilliantOrange.Dyewith1lb.MikadoorangeRO,andtopwith6oz.Acridine
orangeNOand12oz.AuramineII.
Brown.Dyeabottomcolourwith3lb.MikadobrownM,andtopwith2lb.
Bismarckbrownand6oz.Cresylfastviolet2RN.
DeepCrimson.Dyewith1lb.ColumbiablackRandtopwith6oz.Magenta.
PaleSeaGreen.Useinthedyebathoz.ChrysophenineG,1oz.Chicago
blue6Band1oz.Alkaliblue6B.
BrightCrimson.Dyewith3lb.CongoCorinthandtopwith1lb.Magenta.
DarkRussianGreen.Dyewith3lb.ColumbiablackBthentopwith1lb.
Malachitegreen.
GoldDrab.Dyewith5oz.Columbiablack,andtopwith5oz.ChrysoidineR.
BrightOliveYellow.Dyewith1lb.Diaminegold,1lb.Diaminefastyellow
Aandlb.DiaminebronzeGtopwithlb.ThioflavineTandlb.Chrysoidine.
MossBrown.Dyewith1oz.DiaminebrownM,6oz.DiaminefastyellowA,6
oz.DiaminebronzeG,toppingwith1oz.newMethyleneblueNand4oz.Orange
GG.
DarkSeaGreenDyeabottomwith9oz.DiamineblackBand4oz.Diamine
fastyellowB,thentopwith2oz.NewmethyleneblueMand2oz.Newphosphine
G.
OldGold.Dyeagroundwithlb.Diaminegold,1lb.DiaminefastyellowA,
and6oz.DiaminebronzeG,toppingwith8oz.ThioflavineT,1oz.Indianyellow
Rand1oz.Brilliantgreen.
[Pg233]
CornflowerBlue.Dyethegroundwith2lb.Diamineazoblue2B,1oz.
Alkaliblue3B,lb.OxydiamineblackSOOO,andtopwith1oz.
MetaphenyleneblueB,2oz.NewmethyleneblueRand1oz.IndigoblueN.
Slate.Dyewith7oz.DiaminedarkblueBand1oz.DiaminebrownMtopwith
1oz.AnilinegreyBand1oz.Cyanoleextra.
PaleDrab.Dyethegroundwith1oz.DiamineorangeGC,oz.Diamine
bronzeGandoz.DiaminebrownMtopwithoz.NewmethyleneblueN,1
oz.Bismarckbrownand1oz.Cyanoleextra.
DeepLeafGreen.Dyeagroundcolourwith1lb.DiaminebronzeG,1lb.
DiaminefastyellowAand1lb.DiamineblackHWthetoppingbathismade
withlb.Brilliantgreen,lb.Chrysoidineandlb.NewmethyleneblueN.
Maroon.Dyewith3lb.DiamineBordeauxS,lb.DiamineorangeDCand
lb.DiaminebrownVtopwithlb.Magentaandlb.FormylvioletS4B.
Heliotrope.Dyewith1lb.Heliotrope2B.
LilacRose.Dyewith8lb.ColumbiablackRand1lb.AlkaliblueBafterdyeing
passthroughaweakaceticacidbath,thenwashwell.
PeaGreen.Dyewith2lb.Chrysophenine,1lb.Chicagoblue6Band1lb.Alkali
blue6Bpass,afterdyeing,throughaweakaceticacidbath,thenwashwell.
DarkDrab.Dyewithlb.DiaminebrownM,1lb.DiaminefastyellowAand
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lb.DiaminebronzeGtopwithlb.OrangeGGandlb.Cyanoleextra.
DeepRose.Dyethebottomcolourwithlb.DiamineroseBDandtopwith
lb.RhodamineBand1oz.Safranine.
WalnutBrown.Dyethebottomcolourwith1lb.OxydiamineblackD,1lb.
DiaminebrownMand1lb.OxydiaminevioletBthetoppingisdonewith4oz.
Safranine,2oz.NewmethyleneblueNand2oz.Chrysoidine.
[Pg234]
DyeingofPlainBlack.Diamineblacksfindaveryextensiveapplicationfor
dyeingblacksonsatin,eitherdyeddirectinonebath,ordyed,diazotisedand
developed.
UnionblackSandOxydiamineblackDareparticularlysuitablefordirectblacks,
andareusedeitheraloneorinacombinationwithDiaminejetblackSS,which
producesabettercoveringofthesilk,orwithOxydiamineblackSOOO,which
deepenstheshadeofthecotton.AccordingtotheshaderequiredDiaminefast
yellowAandB,DiaminegreenBorG,orAlkalinebluemaybeusedforshading.
Dyeforaboutonehouratabout175to195F.inasconcentratedabathas
possible,withabout7to8lb.dyeper100lb.ofsatin,8to16oz.Glauber'ssaltand
5to8oz.soapper10gallonsdyeliquorkeepcoolinthebathforsometimeand
rinse.
Theraisingiseitherdoneinatepidsoapbathwiththeadditionofsomenew
methyleneblue,orinanacidbathtowhichNaphthol,blueblack,Acidgreen,etc.,
isaddedforshadingthesilk.
Directdyedblacksareespeciallysuitableforcheapgoods(ribbons,lightlinings,
etc.),forwhichspecialfastnesstowaterisnotrequiredalsofortramandtussar
silkplushes,whichareafterwardstoppedwithlogwood.
Ifgreaterfastnessisrequired,andmoreespeciallyifitisacaseofreplacinganiline
black,Diaminogenediazotisedanddevelopedisagooddyestuff.Itisextensively
usedfordyeingumbrellaclothsandlinings.Againstanilineblackithasthegreat
advantageofnottenderingthefibreintheleast,andnotturninggreenduring
storage.DiaminogeneBandDiaminogeneextraaremostlyusedforthispurpose,
theformerforjetblacks,thelatterforblueblackshades.
Proceedasfollows:Entertheboiledoffandacidulatedgoodsinaboilingbathas
concentratedaspossible,chargedwith16oz.Glauber'ssaltper10gallonsliquor,
and1lb.aceticacidper100lb.drygoods.Forjetblackaddfor100lb.satin,6to8
lb.Diaminogene,1to2lb.NaphthylamineblackD,to1lb.Diaminefastyellow
AorDiaminegreenBforverydeepshadesabout1/5ofthequantityof
DiaminogeneBmaybereplacedwithDiaminejetblackSS.Forblueblack,6to8
lb.DiaminogeneB,or3to4lb.DiaminogeneB,and3to4lb.Diaminogeneextra.
Dyeforthreequarterstoonehourattheboil,allowtocoolinthebathforabout
thirtyminutes,thenrinse,diazotiseanddevelop.
[Pg235]
Phenylenediamine(93percent.)servesfordevelopingjetblacksmixedwith
resorcineforgreenishshades.Betanaphtholisusedforblueblacks(1lb.5oz.per
100lb.ofdrymaterial,dissolvedinitsownweightofsodalye,75Tw.).Thethree
developersmayalsobemixedwitheachotherinanyproportions.
Afterdevelopingsoaphotwithadditionofnewmethyleneblue,bychoosinga
reddishorabluishbrandofnewmethylene,blueandblackmaybeshadedatwill
inthesoapbathfinallyrinseandraisewithaceticacid.
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Ifproperlycarriedoutthisprocesswillgiveablackalmostequaltoanilineblack
buthaving,asalreadymentioned,theadvantageofnotimpairingthestrengthofthe
fibre,andnotturninggreenduringstorage.
Asthedyebathsforblacksarechargedwithaproportionatelyhighpercentageof
dyestuffforthefirstbath,andwillnotexhaustcompletely,itisadvisableto
preservethemforfurtheruse.
Forsubsequentlotsonlytwothirdstothreefourthsofthequantitiesofdyestuffs
usedforthefirstbathsarerequired,whichfacthastobetakenintoconsideration
whencalculatingthecostofdyeing.
DyeingShotEffectsonSatin.Notalldirectcoloursareequallywelladaptedfor
theproductionofshoteffectsthoseenumeratedinGroupI.aremostsuitablefor
thepurpose,andshouldbedyedwithalargerquantityofsoapthanisusualfor
solidshades,inordertoleavethesilkaslittletintedaspossible.Dyestuffsofthe
othergroupsmaybeusedifthedyeingisconductedwithpropercare,i.e.,keeping
thebathsmorealkalineandloweringthetemperature.Thegoodsaredyedwiththe
additionforthetwocolouredeffectspreviouslymentioned,thentheyarewell
rinsed,andafterwardsthesilkisdyedwiththesuitableaciddyestuffs,with
additionofsulphuricacidatatemperatureofabout150F.Careshouldbetaken
nottousetoomuchacid,andtokeepthetemperatureofthebathsufficientlylow,
asotherwisetheacidmaycausesomeofthedyestufftogooffthecottonandtint
thesilk.Itisbesttoworkatatemperatureofabout150F.,withadditionofabout
3oz.concentratedsulphuricacidper10gallonsdyeliquor.
[Pg236]
Forshadingthesilkallaciddyestuffscanbeusedwhichhavebeenmentionedin
theforegoingtables.
Ifinshoteffectsthecottonistobedyedbrightandfullshades,thisisbestachieved
bydyeingwithdirectcoloursfirst,andthentoppingwithbasiccoloursasfollows:
Bottomthecottonfirstwiththesuitabledirectcolours,thendyethesilkandthen
treatthepiecesforabouttwohoursinacoldtanninbath(about8oz.tanninper10
gallonsofwater),thenrinseonceandpassthroughatartaremeticbath(about3oz.
per10gallons),rinsethoroughlyanddyethecottontoshadewithbasiccoloursina
coldbathtowhichsomeaceticacidhasbeenadded.
Shouldthesilkbecomealittledullafterthisprocess,thismayberemediedbya
slightsoaping.Afterdyeingrinsewellandraisewithaceticacid.
ShotEffectswithBlackCottonWarp.Effectsmuchinfavouraredesigns
composedofblackcottonandlightorcolouredsilk.Themostsuitableblackdye
forthispurposeisDiamineblackBH,diazotisedanddeveloped.
[Pg237]
Dyeinasconcentratedabathaspossibleatabout160F.withabout6lb.Diamine
blackBH,1lb.Diamineskyblue,pat.,per100lb.ofdrygoods,lb.Diamine
orangeDC,pat.,withanadditionof6oz.soap,4to5dr.sodaper10gallons
liquor,16oz.Glauber'ssalt.Afterdyeingrinsewellinabathcontaining6dr.soda
and3oz.soapper10gallonswater,diazotisedinafreshbathwith4lb.nitriteof
sodaand12lb.hydrochloricacid(per100lb.ofdrygoods),rinsethoroughlyand
developwith3to16oz.phenylenediamine(93percent.),withadditionof1to2
lb.soda.Thesetwooperationsshouldfolloweachotherasquicklyaspossible,also
carehastobetakenthatthediazotisedgoodsarenotexposedtodirectsunlightor
heat,whichcausesunleveldyeings.Thesilkisthencleanedasfaraspossibleby
hotsoaping,anddyedatabout120to140F.,withaciddyestuffsandthe
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additionofsulphuricacid.Afterdyeingrinseasusualandbrighten.
YellowandViolet,Dyethecottonwith2lb.DiaminefastyellowA,thesilkwith
1lb.Cyanoleextra,and1lb.ForinylvioletS4B.
BlackandBlue.Dyethecottonwith5lb.DiamineblackBH,1lb.Diaminesky
blue,andlb.DiamineorangeDC.Afterdyeing,diazotiseanddevelopwith
phenylenediamineasdescribedabove.Thendyethesilkwithlb.Puresoluble
blueand1lb.Cyanoleextra.
BlackandCrimson.Dyetheblackasinthepreviousrecipe,thendyethesilkwith
2lb.Brilliantcroceine3Bandlb.RhodamineS.
BlueandGold.Dyethecottonwith2lb.Diamineskyblueandthesilkwith1lb.
FastyellowS.
DarkBlueandGreen.Dyethecottonwith1lb.DiamineblackBH,1lb.
Diamineskyblueandlb.Diamineazoblue2Rthesilkwith2lb.Naphthol
yellowSand1lb.NewmethyleneblueGG.
[Pg238]
VioletandYellow.Dyethecottonwith2oz.DiaminevioletNandthesilkwith1
lb.FastyellowS.
OrangeandViolet.Dyethecottonwith2lb.DiamineorangeDCandthesilk
with1lb.FormylvioletS4B.
DarkBlueandOlive.Dyethecottonwith1lb.DiamineralblueRandlb.
Diamineazoblue2R,andthesilkwith1lb.NaphtholyellowBand1lb.OrangeG
G.
GreenandPink.Dyethecottonwith1lb.DiaminefastyellowAandlb.
Diamineskyblue,andthesilkwith1lb.ErythrosineB.
BrownandBlue.Dyethecottonwith3lb.Mikadobrown2B,andthesilkwith
lb.Pureblue.
Itisquitepossibletoproducetwocolouredeffectscontainingblueinonebathby
usingAlkaliblueasaconstituentwithadirectdyewhichworksonlyontothe
cotton,thealkalibluegoingontothesilk,as,forexample,inthefollowingrecipes:
OrangeandBlue.Thedyebathismadewith3lb.Mikadoorange5ROand1
lb.Alkaliblue6B.Afterthedyeingthegoodsarerinsed,thenpassedthrougha
bathof1lb.sulphuricacidin10gallonswater,washedwellanddried.
OliveandBlue.Thedyebathismadewith1lb.DiaminefastyellowA,2lb.
DiamineorangeDC,lb.Diamineskyblue,and1lb.Alkaliblue6B,After
dyeingrinse,thenacidulateasaboveandwashwell.
[Pg239]
CHAPTERVII.
OPERATIONSFOLLOWINGDYEING.
WASHING,SOAPING,DRYING.
Afterloosecottonorwool,orcottonandwoollenyarns,orpiecegoodsofevery
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descriptionhavebeendyed,beforetheycanbesentoutforsaletheyhavetopass
throughvariousoperationsofapurifyingcharacter.Therearesomeoperations
throughwhichclothspassthathaveastheirobjecttheimpartingofacertain
appearanceandtexturetothem,generallyknownasfinishingprocessesoftheseit
isnotintendedheretospeak,butonlyofthosewhichprecedethese,butfollowon
thedyeingoperations.
Theseprocessesareusuallyofaverysimplecharacter,andcommontomost
colourswhicharedyed,andherewillbenoticedtheappliancesandmanipulation
necessaryinthecarryingoutoftheseoperations.
SqueezingorWringing.Itisadvisablewhenthegoodsaretakenoutofthedye
bathtosqueezeorwringthemaccordingtocircumstances,inordertopressoutall
surplusdyeliquor,whichcanbereturnedtothedyebathifneedfultobeused
again.Thisisaneconomicalproceedinginmanycases,especiallyinworkingwith
manyoftheoldtanninmaterialslikesumac,dividivi,myrobolams,andthe
moderndirectdyeswhichinthedyeingoperationsarenotcompletelyextractedout
ofthebath,orinotherwords,thedyebathisnotexhaustedofcolouringmatter,
and,therefore,itcanbeusedagainforanotherlotofgoods,simplybyaddingfresh
materialtomakeupforthatabsorbedbythefirstlotofgoods.
[Pg240]
Loosewoolandloosecottonaresomewhatdifficulttodealwithbysqueezingor
wringing,butthematerialmaybepassedthroughapairofsqueezingrollers,such
asareshowninFig.31,whichwillbemorefullydealtwithlateron.Themachine
shownismadebyMessrsReadHolliday&Sons.
FIG.31.SqueezingRollers.
YarnsinHanks.Inthehankdyeingprocessthehanksarewrungbyplacingone
endofthehankonawringinghorseplacedoverthedyetub,adyestickonthe
otherendofthehankgivingtwoorthreesharppullstostraightenouttheyarn,and
thentwistingthestickround,thetwistingoftheyarnsputssomepressureonthe
fibres,thoroughlyanduniformlysqueezingoutthesurplusliquorfromtheyarn.
[Pg241]
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HankwringingMachines.Severalformsofhankwringingmachineshavebeen
devised.Onemachineconsistsofapairofdiscsfittedonanaxlethesediscscarry
stronghooksonwhichthehanksareplaced.Theoperatorplacesahankonapairof
thehooks.Thediscsrevolveandcarryroundthehank,duringtherevolutionthe
hankistwistedandthesurplusliquorwrungout,whentherevolutionofthediscs
carriesthehanktothespotwhereitenteredthemachinethehooksflybacktotheir
originalposition,thehankunwinds,itisthenremovedandanewhankputinits
place,andsothemachineworkson,hanksbeingputonandoffasrequired.The
capacityofsuchamachineisgreat,andtheefficiencyofitsworkinggood.
Mr.S.SpencerofWhitefieldmakesahankwringingmachinewhichconsistsofa
pairofhooksplacedoveravat.Oneofthehooksisfixed,theotherismadeto
rotate.Ahankhungbetweenthehooksisnaturallytwisted,andallthesurplus
liquorwrungout.Theliquorfallingintothevat.
RollerSqueezingMachinesforYarn.Hanksmaybepassedthroughapairof
indiarubbersqueezingrollers,whichmaybesoarrangedthattheycanbefixedas
requiredonthedyebath.Suchapairofrollersisafamiliararticle,andquite
commonandingeneraluseindyehouses.
PieceGoods.Thesearegenerallypassedopenthroughapairofsqueezingrollers
whichareoftenattachedtothedyevatinwhichthepiecesaredyed.
ReadHolliday'sSqueezingMachine.InFig.31isshownasqueezingmachine
verylargelyemployedforsqueezingallkindsofpiecegoodsandcottonwarpsafter [Pg242]
dyeingorwashing.Itconsistsofapairofheavyrollersonwhich,bymeansofthe
screwsshownatthetop,averyconsiderablepressurecanbebroughttobear.The
pieceisrunthroughtheeyeshownontheleft,bywhichitismadeintoaropeform,
thenovertheguidingrollersandbetweenthesqueezingrollers,andintowaggons
forconveyancetoothermachines.Thismachineiseffective.
Anotherplanonwhichroller,orratherinthiscasedisc,squeezingmachinesis
made,istomakethebottomrollerwithasquaregrooveinthecentre,intothisfitsa
disc,theclothpassingbetweenthem.Thetopdisccanbysuitablescrewsbemade
topressupontheclothinthegroove,andthussqueezethewateroutofit.
Washing.Oneofthemostimportantoperationsfollowingthatofdyeingisthe
washingwithwatertofreethegoods,whethercottonorwoollen,fromalltracesof
loosedye,acids,mordantingmaterials,etc.,whichitisnotdesirableshouldbeleft
in,astheymightinterferewiththesubsequentfinishingoperations.Forthis
purposeaplentifulsupplyofgoodcleanwaterisrequiredthisshouldbeassoftas
possible,freefromanysuspendedmatterwhichmightsettleuponthedyedgoods,
andstainorspeckthem.
Washingmaybedonebyhand,asitfrequentlywasinoldendays,bysimply
immersingthedyedfabricsinatubofwater,shaking,thenwringingout,again
placinginfreshwatertofinishoff.Orifthedyeworkswereonthebanksofa
runningstreamofcleanwaterthedyedgoodsweresimplyhunginthestreamtobe
washedinaveryeffectualmanner.
Inthesedaysitisbesttoresorttowashingmachinesadaptedtodealwiththe
variouskindsoffibrousmaterialsandfabricsinwhichtheycanbesubjectedtoa
currentofwater.
[Pg243]
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FIG.32.YarnwashingMachine.
LooseWoolandCotton.Ifthishasbeendyedbyhandthenthewashingmayalso
bedoneinthesamewaybyhandinaplainvat.Ifthedyeinghasbeendoneona
machine,thenthewashingcanbedoneonthesamemachine.
[Pg244]
Yarns.Yarninthecopformisbestwashedinthemachineinwhichitisdyed.
YarnsinHanks.AverycommonformofwashingmachineisshowninFig.32.
Aswillbeseenitconsistsofawoodenvat,overwhicharearrangedaseriesof
revolvingreelsonwhichthehanksarehung.Thehanksarekeptinmotionthrough
thewater,andsoeverypartoftheyarnisthoroughlywashed.Guideskeepthe
hanksofyarnseparateandpreventanyentanglementonewithanother.Apipe
deliversconstantlyacurrentofcleanwater,whileanotherpipecarriesawaythe
usedwater.Motionisgiventothereelsinthiscasebyadonkeyengineattachedto
themachine,butitmayalsobedrivenbyabeltfromthemaindrivingshaftofthe
works.Thismachineisveryeffective.
FIG.33.DyehouseWashingMachine.
PieceGoods.Piecegoodsaremostlywashedinmachines,ofwhichtwobroad
typesmayberecognisedfirst,thosewherethepiecesaredealtwithintheformof
ropesinatwistedform,and,second,thosewherethepiecesarewashedopen.
Therearesomemachinesinwhichtheclothsmaybetreatedeitherintheopenor
ropeformasmaybethoughtmostdesirable.
[Pg245]
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FIG.34.ClothwashingMachine.
Fig.33representsafairlywellknownmachine,madebyMessrs.Mather&Platt,
inwhichthepiecesaretreatedinaropelikeform.Itconsistsofatroughinwhicha
constantcurrentofwaterismaintained.Atoneendofthistroughisasquare
beatingroller,attheotherawoodenlatticeroller.Abovethesquarebeater,andout
ofthetrough,areapairofrollerswhosepurposeistodrawthecloththroughthe
machineandalsopartlytoactassqueezingrollers.Aswillbeseentheclothis
threadedinropeformspirallyroundtherollers,passinginatoneendandoutatthe
other,pegsinaguiderailservingtokeepthevariousportionsseparate.Thesquare
beaterinitsrevolutionshasabeatingactionontheclothtendingtomoreeffectual
washing.Thelatticerollerissimplyaguideroller.
[Pg246]
Fig.34showsawashingmachineverylargelyusedinthewooldyeingtrade.The
principalportionofthismachineisofwood.
Theinternalpartsconsistofalargewoodenbowl,oroftener,asinthemachine
undernotice,ofapairofwoodenbowlswhicharepressedtogetherbyspringswith
somesmalldegreeofforce.Betweenthesebowlstheclothisplaced,moreorless
looselytwistedupinaropeform,andthemachinesaremadetotakefour,sixor
eightpieces,orlengthsofpieces,atonetime,theendsofthepiecesbeingstitched
together.Apiperunningalongthefrontofthemachineconveysaconstantcurrent
ofcleanwaterwhichiscausedtoimpingeintheformofjetsonthepiecesofcloth
astheyrunthroughthemachine,whileanoverflowcarriesawaytheusedwater.
Thegoodsareruninthismachineuntiltheyareconsideredtobesufficiently
washed,whichmaytakehalftooneandahalfhours.
InFig.35isshownamachinedesignedtowashpiecesinthebroadoropenstate.
Themachinecontainsalargenumberofguiderollers,builtmoreorlessopen,
roundwhichthepiecesareguidedtheendsofthepiecesbeingstitchedtogether.
Pipescarryingwateraresoarrangedthatjetsofcleanwaterimpingeonand
thoroughlywashtheclothasitpassesthroughtheconstructionoftheguide
rollersfacilitatingtheefficientwashingofthegoods.
[Pg247]
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FIG.35.ClothwashingMachine.
Soaping.Sometimesyarnsorclothshavetobepassedthroughasoapbathafter
beingdyedinordertobrightenupthecoloursordeveloptheminsomeway.Inthe
caseofyarnsthiscanbedoneonthereelwashingmachinesuchasisshowninFig.
32.Inthecaseofpiecegoods,acontinuousmachine,inwhichthewashing,
soaping,etc.,canbecarriedonsimultaneously,isoftenemployed.Suchamachine
isshowninFig.36.Itconsistsofanumberofcompartmentsfittedwithguide
rollerssothattheclothpassesupanddownseveraltimesthroughtheliquorsinthe
compartments.Betweenonecompartmentandanotherisplacedapairofsqueezing
rollers.Theclothisthreadedinacontinuousmanner,wellshowninthedrawing,
throughthemachine.Inonecompartmentitistreatedwithwater,inanothersoap
liquor,inanotherwater,andsoonandthesemachinesmaybemadewithtwo,
threeormorecompartmentsasmaybenecessaryfortheparticularworkinhand.
Asseeninthedrawing,theclothpassesinatoneendandoutattheotherfinished.
Itisusuallyarrangedthatacontinuouscurrentofthevariousliquorsusedflows
throughthevariouscompartments,thusensuringthemostperfecttreatmentofthe
cloths.
[Pg248]
FIG.36.WashingandSoapingVats.
Steaming.Sometimesitbecomesnecessarytosubjectdyedgoodstoaprocessof
steaming,as,forinstance,withsteamanilineblacks,khakishades,alizarinereds,
etc.,forthepurposeofmorefullydevelopingandfixingthedyeuponthefibre.In
thecaseofyarns,thisoperationiscarriedoutinthesteamingcottage,oneformof
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whichisshowninFig.37.Itconsistsofahorizontalcylindricalironvessellikea
steamboiler,oneendisentirelyclosed,whiletheotherismadetoopenandbe
closedtightlyandhermetically.Thecottageisfittedwiththenecessarysteaminlet [Pg249]
andoutletpipes,drainpipesforcondensedwater,pressuregauges.Theyarntobe
steamedishungonrodsplacedonaskeletonframewaggononwheelswhichcan
beruninandoutofthesteamingcottageasisrequired.Thedrawingshowswell
thevariousimportantpartsofthemachine.Inthecaseofpiecegoodsthesealsocan
behungfromrodsinfoldsonsuchawaggon,butitismuchmorecustomaryto
employacontinuoussteamingchamber,verysimilarto
FIG.37.SteamingCottage.
theageingandoxidisingmachineshowninFig.38,andalsousedinthedyeingof
anilineblack.
Drying.Followingonthewashingcomesthefinaloperationofthedyeing
process,thatofdryingthedyedandwashedgoods.Textilefabricsofallkindsafter
theyhavepassedthroughdyebaths,washingmachines,etc.,containalarge
amountofwater,oftenexceedinginweightthatofthefibreitself,andtotakethe
goodsdirectfromtheprecedingoperationstothedryingplantmeansthata
considerableamountoffuelmustbeexpendedtodrive
[Pg250]
FIG.38.SteamingandAgeingChamber.
offthislargeamountofwater.Itisthereforeverydesirablethatthegoodsbefreed
fromasmuchofthiswateraspossiblebeforetheyaresentintoanydrying
chambers,andthismaybedoneinthreeways,bywringing,squeezingandhydro
extracting.Thefirsttwomethodshavealreadybeendescribed(p.239,etc.)and
neednotagainbealludedtothelastneedssomeaccount.
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FIG.39.Hydroextractor.
Hydroextractorsareamostefficientmeansforextractingwateroutoftextile
fabrics.Theyaremadeinavarietyofformsbyseveralmakers.Essentiallythey
consistofacylindricalvessel,orbasket,asitiscalled,withperforatedsidesso
constructedthatitcanberevolvedatahighspeed.Thisvesselisenclosedinan
outercage.Thegoodsareplacedinthebasket,asitistermed,andthenthisis
causedtorevolveathighspeed,whencentrifugalactioncomesintoplay,andthe
watercontainedinthegoodsfindsitswaytotheoutsideofthebasketthroughthe
perforations,andsoawayfromthegoods.Hydroextractorsaremadeinavarietyof [Pg252]
sizesandformsinsomethedrivinggearisabove,inothersbelowthebasketin
somethedrivingisdonebybeltgearing,inothersasteamengineisdirectly
connectedwiththebasket.Figs.39and40showtwoformswhicharemuchinuse
inthetextileindustry.Theyareveryefficient,andextractwaterfromtextilegoods
morecompletelythananyothermeans,aswillbeobviousfromastudyofthetable
below.
FIG.40.Hydroextractor.
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Therelativeefficiencyofthethreesystemsofextractingthemoistureoutoftextile
fabricshasbeeninvestigatedbyGrothe,whogivesinhisAppreturderGewebe,
publishedin1882,thefollowingtableshowingthepercentageamountofwater
removedinfifteenminutes:
Yarns.Wool.Silk.Cotton.Linen.Wringing44.545.445.350.3Squeezing60.0
71.460.073.6Hydroextracting83.577.081.282.8
Pieces.Wringing33.444.544.554.6Squeezing64.069.772.283.0Hydro
extracting77.875.582.386.0
[Pg253]
Inthepracticalworkingofhydroextractorsitisoftheutmostimportancethatthe
goodsbecarefullyandregularlylaidinthebasketnottoomuchinonepartand
toolittleinanother.Anyunevennessinthisrespectatthespeedatwhichtheyare
drivenlayssuchastrainonthebearingsastoseriouslyendangerthesafetyofthe
machine.
Afterbeingwrung,squeezedorhydroextractedthegoodsarereadytobedried.In
thecaseofyarns,thismaybedoneinroomsheatedbysteampipesplacedonthe
floor,thehanksbeinghungonrodssuspendedfromracksarrangedforthepurpose.
FIG.41.AutomaticYarndryer.
Wherelargequantitiesofyarnhavetobedried,itismosteconomicaltoemploya
yarndryingmachine,andoneformofsuchisshowninFig.41.Theappearanceof
themachineisthatofonelongroomfromtheoutsideinternallyitisdividedinto
compartments,eachofwhichisheatedupbysuitablyarrangedsteampipes,butthe
degreeofheatingineachcompartmentvariesattheentranceenditishigh,atthe
exitendlower.Theyarnisfedinatoneend,beinghungonrods,andbysuitable
gearingitiscarrieddirectlythroughthevariouschambersorsections,andinits
passagetheheattowhichitissubjecteddrivesoffthewateritcontains.Theyarn
requiresnoattentionfromthetimeitpassesinwetattheoneendofthemachine
andcomesoutdryattheotherend.Theamountoflabourrequiredisslight,only
thatrepresentedbyfillingthestickswithwetyarnandemptyingthemofthedried
yarn.Themachineworksregularlyandwell.
[Pg254]
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FIG.42.TruckYarndryer.
Thedryingisaccomplishedbycirculatingheatedairthroughtheyarns,thisheating
beingeffectedbysteamcoils,freshaircontinuallyentersthechambers,while
watersaturatedairisascontinuallybeingtakenoutatthetopofthechamber.One
ofthegreatsecretsinalldryingoperationsistohaveaconstantcurrentoffreshhot
airplayingonthegoodstobedriedthisabsorbsthemoisturetheycontain,andthe
waterchargedairthusproducedmustbetakenawayasquicklyaspossible.
[Pg255]
FIG43.DryingCylinders.
Fig.42showswhatiscalledatruckyarndryer,whichconsistsofachamberheated
withsteampipesandfittedwithanexhaustingfantodrawouttheairandwater
vapourwhichisproduced.Theyarnsarehungontruckswhichcanberuninand
outofthechamberforfillingandemptying.
[Pg256]
PieceGoods.Themostconvenientmannerofdryingpiecegoodsistoemploythe
steamcylinderdryingmachine,suchasisshowninFig.43.Thisconsistsofa
numberofhollowtinorcoppercylinderswhichcanbeheatedbysteampassingin
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throughtheaxlesofthecylinders,whicharemadehollowonpurpose.Theclothto
bedriedpassesroundthesecylinders,whichrevolvewhiletheclothpasses.They
workveryeffectually.Thecylindersarearrangedsometimes,asinthedrawing,
verticallyatothertimeshorizontally.
[Pg257]
CHAPTERVIII
TESTINGOFTHECOLOUROFDYEDFABRICS.
Itisfrequentlydesirablethatdyersshouldbeabletoascertainwithsomedegreeof
accuracywhatdyeshavebeenusedtodyeanyparticularsamplesofdyedcloththat
hasbeenofferedtothemtomatch.Inthesedaysofthethousandandonedifferent
dyesthatareknownitisbynomeansaneasythingtodoandwhen,asismost
oftenthecase,twoorthreedyestuffshavebeenusedintheproductionofashade,
thedifficultyismateriallyincreased.
Theonlyavailablemethodistotrytheeffectofvariousacidandalkalinereagents
onthesample,notingwhetheranychangeofcolouroccurs,andjudging
accordingly.Itwouldbeagoodthingfordyerstoaccustomthemselvestotestthe
dyeingstheydo,andsoaccumulateafundofpracticalexperiencewhichwillstand
themingoodsteadwhenevertheyhaveoccasiontoexamineadyedpatternof
unknownorigin.
Thelimitsofthisbookdoesnotpermitoftherebeinggivenaseriesofelaborate
tablesshowingtheactionofvariouschemicalreagentsonfabricsdyedwithvarious
coloursandsuch,indeed,serveverylittlepurpose,foritismostdifficultto
describetheminordifferenceswhichoftenservetodistinguishonecolourfrom
another.Insteadofdoingso,wewillpointoutinsomedetailthemethodsof
carryingoutthevarioustests,andadvisealldyerstocarrytheseoutforthemselves
onsamplesdyedwithknowncolours,andwhentheyhaveanunknowncolourto
testtomaketestscomparativelywithknowncoloursthattheythinkarelikelyto
havebeenusedintheproductionofthedyedfabrictheyaretesting.
[Pg258]
Oneverycommonmethodistospotthefabric,thatis,toputadropofthereagent
onit,usuallywiththeendofthestopperofthereagentbottle,andtoobservethe
colourchanges,ifany,whichensue.Thisisaveryusefultestandshouldnotbe
omitted,anditisoftenemployedinthetestingofindigodyedgoodswithnitric
acid,thoseoflogwoodwithhydrochloricacid,alizarinewithcausticsoda,and
manyothers.Itissimpleandeasytocarryout,andonlytakesafewminutes.
Tomakeacompleteseriesoftestsofdyedfabricsthereshouldbeprovidedthe
followingreagents:
1.Strongsulphuricacid,asbought.
2.Dilutesulphuricacid,beingthestrongaciddilutedwithtwentytimesitsvolume
ofwater.
3.Concentratedhydrochloricacid.
4.Dilutehydrochloricacid,1acidto20water.
5.Concentratednitricacid.
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6.Dilutenitricacid,1acidto20water.
7.Aceticacid.
8.Causticsodasolution,5gramsin100c.c.water.
9.Ammonia(strong).
10.Diluteammonia,1strongammoniato10water.
11.Carbonateofsodasolution,6gramsin100c.c.water.
12.Bleachingpowdersolution,2Tw.
13.Bisulphiteofsoda,72Tw.
14.Stannouschloride,10gramscrystalsin100c.c.water,withalittlehydrochloric
acid.
15.Methylatedspirit.
Smallswatchesofthedyedgoodsareputincleanporcelainbasins,andsomeof
thesesolutionspouredoverthem.Anychangeofcolouroftheclothisnoted,as
wellaswhetheranycolourisimpartedtothesolutions.Aftermakingobservations
oftheeffectsinthecoldtheliquidsmaybewarmedandtheresultsagainnoted.
Afterbeingtreatedwiththeacidstheswatchesshouldbewellwashedwithwater,
whentheoriginalcolourmaybewhollyorpartiallyrestored.
[Pg259]
Togivetablesshowingtheeffectsofthesereagentsonthenumerousdyesnow
knownwouldtakeuptoomuchroomandnotserveaveryusefulpurpose,assuch
tables,iftoomuchreliedon,leavetheoperatorsomewhatuncertainastowhathe
hasbeforehim.ThereaderwillfindinHurst'sDictionaryofCoaltarColourssome
usefulnotesastotheactionofacidsandalkaliesonthevariouscoloursthatmaybe
ofservicetohim.
Alizarineandtheseriesofdyestuffstowhichithasgivenitsname,fustic,
cochineal,logwoodandotherdyesofasimilarclassrequirethefabrictobe
mordanted,andthepresenceofsuchmordantisoccasionallyanindirectproofof
thepresenceofthesedyes.
Todetectthesemordants,apieceoftheswatchshouldbeburntinaporcelainor
platinumcrucibleoveraBunsenburner,carebeingtakenthatallcarbonaceous
matterbeburntoff.Awhiteashwillindicatethepresenceofaluminamordants,red
ashthatofironmordants,andagreenishashchromemordants.
Toconfirmthesethefollowingchemicaltestsmaybeapplied:Boiltheashleftin
thecruciblewithalittlestronghydrochloricacidanddilutewithwater.Passa
currentofsulphurettedhydrogengasthroughthesolutioniftherebeanytin
presentabrownprecipitateoftinsulphidewillbeobtained.Thiscanbefilteredoff.
Thefiltrateisboiledforashorttimewithnitricacid,andammoniaisaddedtothe
solutionwhenaluminaisthrowndownasawhitegelatinousprecipitateironis
throwndownasabrownredbulkyprecipitatewhilechromeisthrowndownasa
greyishlookinggelatinousprecipitate.Theprecipitateobtainedwiththeammonia
isfilteredoff,andadropofammoniumsulphideadded,whenanyzincpresentwill
bethrowndownaswhiteprecipitateofzincsulphide:tothefiltratefromthis
ammoniumoxalatemaybeadded,wheniflimeispresentawhiteprecipitateof
calciumoxalateisobtained.
[Pg260]
Atestforironistodissolvesomeoftheashinalittlehydrochloricacid,andadda
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fewdropsofpotassiumferrocyanidesolution,whenifanyironbepresentablue
precipitatewillbeobtained.
Tomakemorecertainofthepresenceofchrome,heatalittleoftheashofthecloth
withcausticsodaandchlorateofsodainaporcelaincrucibleuntilwellfused,then
dissolveinwater,acidifywithaceticacidandaddleadacetateayellowprecipitate
indicatesthepresenceofchrome.
Abookonqualitativechemicalanalysisshouldbereferredtoforfurtherdetailsand
testsformetallicmordants.
Thefastnessofcolourstolight,air,rubbing,washing,soaping,acidsandalkaliesis
afeatureofsomeconsiderableimportance.Thereareindeedfewcoloursthatwill
resistalltheseinfluences,andsucharefullyentitledtobecalledfast.Thedecreeof
fastnessvariesveryconsiderably.Somecolourswillresistacidsandalkalieswell,
butarenotfasttolightandairsomewillresistwashingandsoaping,butarenot
fasttoacidsSomemaybefasttolight,butarenotsotowashing.Thefollowing
noteswillshowhowtotestthesefeatures:
FastnesstoLightandAir.Thisissimplytestedbyhangingapieceofthedyed
clothintheair,keepingapieceinadrawertoreferto,sothattheinfluenceonthe
originalcolourcanbenotedfromtimetotime.Ifthepieceisleftoutintheopen
onegetsnotonlytheeffectoflightbutalsothatofclimateonthecolour,andthere
isnodoubtwind,rain,hailandsnowhavesomeinfluenceonthefadingofthe
colour.
[Pg261]
Ifthepieceisexposedunderglass,theclimaticinfluencesdonotcomeintoplay,
andonegetstheeffectoflightalone.
Inmakingtestsoffastness,thedyerwillanddoespaydueregardtothecharacterof
theinfluencesthatthematerialwillbesubjectedtoinactualuse,andthesevary
veryconsiderablythusthecolourofunderclothingneednotbefasttolight,foritis
rarelysubjectedtothatagentofdestruction.Ontheotherhanditmustbefastto
washing,forthatisanoperationtowhichunderclothingissubjectedweekbyweek.
Windowcurtainsaremuchexposedtolightandair,and,therefore,coloursin
whichtheyaredyedshouldbefasttolightandair.Ontheotherhandthesecurtains
arerarelywashed,andsothecolourneednotbequitefasttowashing.Andsowith
otherkindsoffabrics,therearescarcelytwokindswhicharesubjectedtothesame
influences,andrequirethecolourstohavethesamedegreeoffastness.
Thefastnesstorubbingisgenerallytestedbyrubbingthedyedclothonapieceof
whitepaper.
FastnesstoWashing.Thisisgenerallytestedbyboilingaswatchoftheclothin
asolutionofsoapcontaining4gramsofagoodneutralcurdsoapperlitreforten
minutesandnotingtheeffectwhetherthesoapsolutionbecomescolouredandto
whatdegree,orwhetheritremainscolourless,andalsowhetherthecolourofthe
swatchhaschangedatall.
Oneveryimportantpointinconnectionwiththesoapingtestiswhetheracolour
willrunintoawhitefabricthatmaybesoapedalongwithit.Thisistestedby
twistingstrandsofthedyedyarnorclothwithwhiteyarnorclothandboilingthem
inthesoapliquorfortenminutesandthennotingtheeffect,particularlyobserving
whetherthewhitepieceshavetakenupanycolour.
Fastnesstoacidsandfastnesstoalkaliesisobservedwhilecarryingoutthevarious
acidandalkalitestsgivenabove.
[Pg262]
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CHAPTERIX.
EXPERIMENTALDYEINGANDCOMPARATIVEDYETESTING.
Everydyeroughttobeabletomakeexperimentsinthemordantinganddyeingof
textilefibresforthepurposeofascertainingthebestmethodsofapplyingmordants
ordyestuffs,thebestmethodsofobtaininganydesiredshade,andforthepurpose
ofmakingcomparativetestsofdyesormordantingmaterialswiththeobjectof
determiningtheirstrengthandvalue.Thisisnotbyanymeansdifficult,nordoesit
involvetheuseofanyexpensiveapparatus,sothatadyerneednothesitatetosetup
asmalldyeinglaboratoryforfearoftheexpensewhichitmightentail.
Inordertocarryouttheworkindicatedabovetherewillberequiredseveralpieces
ofapparatus.First,asmallchemicalbalance,onethatwillcarry100gramsineach
panisquitelargeenoughandsuchaone,quiteaccurateenoughforthiswork,can
beboughtfor25s.to30s.,whileifthedyerbetoopoorevenforthis,acheappair
ofapothecaries'scalesmightbeused.Itisadvisabletoprocureasetofgram
weights,andtogetaccustomedtothem,whichisnotaverydifficulttask.
Inusingthebalancealwaysputthesubstancetobeweighedonthelefthandpan,
andtheweightsontherighthandpan.Neverputchemicalsofanykinddirecton
thepan,butweightheminawatchglass,smallporcelainbasin,orglassbeaker,
whichhasfirstbeenweighed,accordingtothenatureofthematerialwhichisbeing [Pg263]
weighed.Thesetsofweightsarealwaysfittedintoablockorbox,andeverytime
theyareusedtheyshouldbeputbackintotheirproperplace.
Theexperimenterwillfinditconvenienttoprovidehimselfwithafewsmall
porcelainbasins,glassbeakers,cubiccentimetremeasures,twoorthree200c.c.
flaskswithamarkontheneck,afewpipettesofvarioussizes,10c.c.,20c.c.,25
c.c.
Themostimportantfeatureisthedyeingapparatus.Whereonlyasingledyetestis
tobemade,asmallcopperorenamelledironsaucepan,suchascanbeboughtat
anyironmonger's,maybeusedthismayconvenientlybeheatedbyagasboiling
burner,suchascanalsobeboughtatanironmonger'sorplumber'sfor2s.
FIG.44.ExperimentalDyebath.
Itis,however,advisabletohavemeanswherebyseveraldyeingexperimentscanbe
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madeatonetimeandunderpreciselythesameconditions,andthiscannotbedone
byusingthesimplemeansnotedabove.
Tobeabletomakeperfectlycomparativedyeingexperimentsitisbesttouse
porcelaindyepotsthesemaybeboughtfrommostdealersinchemicalapparatus
andtoheattheminawaterbatharrangement.
ThesimplestarrangementissketchedinFig.44itconsistsofacopperbath
measuring15incheslongby10inchesbroadand6inchesdeepthisis
coveredbyalidinwhicharesixaperturestotaketheporcelaindyebaths.Thebath
isheatedbytworoundgasboilingburnersofthetypealreadyreferredto.
[Pg264]
Thecopperbathisfilledwithwater,which,onbeingheatedtotheboilbythegas
burners,heatsupthedyeliquidsinthedyepots.Thetemperatureinthedyepots
undersuchconditionscanneverreachtheboilingpointwhereitisdesirable,asin
somecasesofwoolmordantinganddyeing,thatitshouldboil,thereshouldbe
addedtothewaterinthecopperbathaquantityofcalciumchloride,whichformsa
solutionthathasamuchhigherboilingpointthanthatofwater,andsothedye
liquorsinthedyepotsmaybeheateduptotheboil.
Anobjectionmightberaisedthatwithsuchanapparatusthetemperatureinevery
partofthebathmaynotbeuniform,andsothetemperatureofthedyeliquorsin
thepotsmayvaryalso,anddifferencesoftemperatureoftenhaveaconsiderable
influenceontheshadeofthecolourwhichisbeingdyed.Thisisaminorobjection,
whichismoreacademicinitsoriginthanofpracticalimportance.Toobviatethis
Mr.WilliamMarshalloftheRochdaleTechnicalSchoolhasdevisedacircular
formofdyebath,inwhichthetemperatureineverypartcanbekeptquiteuniform.
Thedyeinglaboratoriesoftechnicalschoolsandcollegesaregenerallyprovided
withamoreelaboratesetofdyeingappliances.These,inthelatestconstructed,
consistofacopperbathsupportedonahollowpairoftrunnions,thatthebathcan
beturnedoverifneeded.Intothebatharefirmlyfixedthreeearthenwareor
porcelaindyepotssteamforheatingcanbesentthroughthetrunnions.Afterthe
dyeingtestshavebeenmadetheapparatuscanbeturnedover,andthecontentsof
thedyepotsemptiedintoasinkwhichisprovidedforthepurpose.
[Pg265]
Manyotherpiecesofapparatushavebeendevisedandmadeforthepurposeof
carryingondyeingexperimentsonthesmallscale,butitwillnotbeneedfulto
describetheseindetail.Afterallnomoreefficientapparatuscanbedesiredthan
thatdescribedabove.
Dyeingexperimentscanbemadewitheitheryarnsorpiecesofclothswatches,as
theyarecommonlycalledaveryconvenientsizeisasmallskeinofyarnora
pieceofclothhavingaweightof5grams.Thesetestskeinsorpiecesoughttobe
wellwashedinhotwaterbeforeuse,sothattheyarecleanandfreefromanysizeor
grease.Alittlesodaorsoapwillfacilitatethecleansingprocess.
Incarryingoutadyeingtestthedyepotshouldbefilledwiththewaterrequired,
usingaslittleascanbeconsistentwiththedyeswatchbeinghandledcomfortably
therein,thenthereisaddedtherequiredmordants,chemicals,dyes,etc.,according
tothecharacteroftheworkwhichisbeingdone.
Ofsuchchemicalsassoda,causticsoda,sodiumsulphate(Glauber'ssalt),tartar,
bichromateofpotash,itwillbefoundconvenienttopreparestocksolutionsof
knownstrength,say50gramsperlitre,andthenbymeansofapipetteanyrequired
quantitycanbeconvenientlyadded.Thesameplanmightbefollowedinthecaseof
dyeswhichareconstantlyinuse,inthiscase,5gramsperlitrewillbefoundstrong
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enough.
Supposingitisdesiredtomakeatestofasampleofdirectred,usingthefollowing
proportions:2percent.dyestuff,3percent.soda,15percent.Glauber'ssalt,and
theweightoftheswatchwhichisbeingusedis5grams.Thefollowingcalculations
[Pg266]
aretobemadetogivethequantitiesoftheingredientsrequired.
Forthedyestuff:
5(weightofswatch)multipliedby2(percent.ofdye)anddividedby100equals
5x2
=0.1gramdye
100
Forthesodawehavesimilarly:
5x3
=0.15gramsoda.
100
FortheGlauber'ssalt:
5x15
=0.75gramGlauber'ssalt.
100
Thesequantitiesmaybeweighedoutandaddedtothedyebath,orifsolutionsare
kept,acalculationcanbemadeastothenumberofcubiccentimetreswhich
containtheabovequantities,andthesemeasuredoutandaddedtothedyebath.
Whenallisready,thebathisheatedup,theswatchentered,andtheworkofthetest
enteredupon.
Studentsarerecommendedtomakeexperimentsonsuchpointsas:
Theshadesobtainedbyusingvariousproportionsofdyestuffs.
Theinfluenceofvariousassistantscommonsalt,soda,Glauber'ssalt,borax,
phosphateofsodainthebath.
Theinfluenceofvaryingproportionsofmordantsontheshadeofdyeing.
Thevalueofvariousassistants,tartar,oxalicacid,lacticacid,sulphuricacid,onthe
fixationofmordants.
Therelativevalueofdifferenttanninmatters,etc.
Eachdyershouldmakehimselfapatternbookintowhichheshouldenterhistests,
withfullparticularsastohowtheyhavebeenproducedattheside.
Itisimportantthatadyershouldbeabletomakecomparativedyeteststoascertain [Pg267]
therelativestrengthofanytwo,ormoresamplesofdyeswhichmaybesenttohim.
Thisisnotdifficult,butrequiresconsiderablecareincarryingoutthevarious
operationsinvolved.
Ofeachofthesamplesofdyes0.5gramshouldbeweighedoutanddissolvedin
100c.c.ofwater,carebeingtakenthateveryportionofthedyeisdissolvedbefore
anyofthesolutionisusedinmakingupthedyevats.Careshouldalsobetakenthat
theskeinsofyarnorswatchesofclothareexactlyequalinweightthatthesame
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volumeofwaterisplacedineachofthedyepotsthatthesameamountofsulphate
ofsodaorotherdyeassistantsareaddedthatthequantitiesofdyestuffand
solutionsusedareequalinfact,thatinallrespectstheconditionsofdyeingare
exactlythesame,such,infact,beingthevitalconditionsinmakingcomparative
dyetestsoftheactualdyeingstrengthofseveralsamplesofdyes.
Aftertheswatcheshavebeendyedtheyarerinsedandthendried,whenthedepth
ofshadedyedonthemmaybecomparedonewithanother.Topreventany
mistakes,itiswelltomarktheswatcheswithone,two,threeormorecutsasmay
berequired.
Itiseasiertoascertainiftwodyesaredifferentinstrengthofcolourthanto
ascertaintherelativedifferencebetweenthem.Therearetwoplansavailablefor
thispurposeoneisadyeingtest,theotherisacolorimetrictestmadewiththe
solutionsofthedyes.
DyeingTest.Thismethodofascertainingtherelativevalueoftwodyesas
regardsstrengthofcolouriscarriedoutasfollows:Apreliminarytestwillshow
whichisstrongerthantheother.Thenthereispreparedaseriesofdyevatsone
containsaswatchwiththedeepestofthetwodyes,whichistakenasthestandard
theothers,swatcheswiththeotherdye,butcontaining2,5and10percent.more
[Pg268]
dyestuff,andalltheseswatchesaredyedtogether,andafterdryingacomparison
canbemadebetweenthemandthestandardswatchandajudgmentformedasto
therelativestrengthofthetwodyes.Alittleexperiencewillsoonenablethedyerto
formacorrectjudgmentofthedifferenceinstrengthbetweentwosamplesofdye
stuff.
ColorimetricTest.Thisisbasedontheprinciplethatthecolourofasolutionof
dyestuffwillbeproportionatetoitsstrength.Twowhiteglasstubesequalin
diameteraretaken.Solutionsofthedyestuff,0.5gramin100c.c.ofwater,are
prepared,carebeingtakenthatthesolutioniscomplete.Ofoneofthesesolutions5
c.c.istakenandplacedinoneoftheglasstubes,and5c.c.oftheothersolutionis
placedintheotherglasstube.Ofwater25c.c.isnowaddedtoeachtube,andthen
thecolourofthedilutedliquidsiscomparedbylookingthroughtheminagood
light.Thatsamplewhichgivesthedeepersolutionisthestrongerincolouring
power.Bydilutingthestrongersolutionwithwateruntilitisofthesamedepthof
colourastheweaker,itmaybeassumedthatthedepthofthecolumnsofliquidin
thetwotubesisinproportiontotherelativestrengthofthetwosamples.Thus,ifin
onetubethereare30c.ofliquidandintheother25c.,thentherelativestrengthis
as30to25andifthefirstistakenasthestandardat100,aproportionsumgives
30:25::100:83.3,
thatis,theweakersamplehasonly83.3percent,ofthestrengthofthestronger
sample.
[Pg269]
INDEX.
COMPILEDBYMISSGRACEGREENWOOD,B.A.(LOND.).
A.
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Acetateliquor,190,193.
ofalumina,170.
ofchrome,180.
oflead,159.
Aceticacid,174,180,184,227,231.
Aciddyes,83,159.
dyestuffs,toppingwith,228.
green,84,221,229,234.
magenta,84.220.
violet,229.
6B,211,218.
yellow,220.
Acids,actionof,oncellulose,9.
AcridineorangeNO,231,232.
Affinityofdyestuffforfibre,109.
Albumens,4.
Algarobilla,147,148.
Alizarine,18,150,157,169,180,259.
blue,173,174.
paste,174.
dyedgoods,testof,258.
dyes,84.
oil,170.
orange,173.174.
pink,172.
purple,172.
red,171,248.
violet,172.
yellowN,180.
AlkaliblueB,233.
3B,233.
6B,217,232,233,238.
yellowR,209.
Alkalies,actionof,oncotton,6.
Alkalineblue,211,214,215,216.
coppersolution,196.
Alphanaphthol,130,132,133,186,187,188.
Alphanaphthylamine,182,185,187,188.
claret,197.
Alum,159,164,165.166,167.
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Alumina,157.
acetate,179.
mordants,259.
Amidazolblacks,79,121,179.
blackG,124,126.
brown,121.
cachou,127.
cutch,126.
drab,127.
greenB,127.
Y,127.
olive,121.
Amidoazobenzene,185,187,188.
Amidoazobodies,183.
compounds,182.
Amidoazotoluol,198.
garnet,198.
Amidobases,diazotisationof,182.
groups,130.
Amidodiphenylamine,183.
Amidophenylamine,133.
Amines,181.
Ammonia,174,180.
soda,173.
Ammoniacalcopper,21.
Ammoniumchloride,180,207.
Amyloid,12.
Aniline,13,182,184,185,186,188.
black,79,205,234.
greyB,229,231.
hydrochloride,181.
oil,206,207.
salt,207.
Anisidine,183.
Anthracenebrown,174.
Anthrapurpurine,171.
Antimonyfluoride,147.
155/253
12/9/2014
oxalate,147.
AppreturderGewebe,252.
ArchilsubstituteN,229.
Artificialsilk,15.
AtlasredR,102.
Auramine,18,147,153.
G.154.
II,151,152,153,230,231,232.
Auroline,209.
Automaticyarndryer,253.
Azinegreen,TO,231.
Azoaciddyes,210.
yellow,211.
Azoblue,85,211.
2R,228.
compounds,182.
dyes,18,129,159,181.
mauve.100,210.
AM,99,106.
orseilleBB,229.
redA,211,214,215,216,217,223,229.
rubineA,229.
scarlet,84.
violet,100.
AzophororangeMN,195.
redPN,139,141,193,195.
156/253
12/9/2014
B.
Barlowkiers,30,32.
Barwood,18,156,178.
Basicdyes,83.
toppingwith,145.
dyestuffs,toppingwith,228.
Bastfibre,2.
Bayerdeveloper,133.
Beaumont'scopdyeingmachine,67.
Beige,167.
Benzoazurine,101,107,112.
G,93,101,146,201.
3G,211.
R,210.
blackblue,164.
blue,227.
3B,94.
blackG,210.
RW,115.
brown,92.
G,100,103.
NB,100,103.
NBX,101.
chromeblackblueB,96,118.
brownG,118.
5G,113.
R,118.
157/253
12/9/2014
2R,117.
dyes,18,85,208,225.
fastgrey,102.
scarlet4BS,107.
green,BB,93.
G,92,145.
BenzonitrolblackB,142.
brownG,144.
darkbrownN,144.
developer,141.
dyes,139.
Benzoolive,92.
orangeR,87,92.
purpurine,85,101,107.
B,100,210.
4B,87,89,210,217.
6B,146.
10B,210,217.
Betanaphthol,130,131,132,184,186,187,188,189,191,196,235.
Betanaphthylamine,182,185,187,188.
red,196.
Bichromateofpotash,164,165,166,167,177,179,181.
ofsoda,206.
Biebrichorange,128.
scarlet,128.
Birch'ssewingmachine,25.
washingmachine,36.
158/253
12/9/2014
Bismarckbrown,146,147,153,165,166,167,229,230,232.
FF,231.
Bisulphateofsoda,221,222,223.
Black,104,120,121,122,123,124,137,138,139,142,144,
166,214,215,217.
andblueshot,222,223.
andcrimsonshotdyes,237.
andgreenblueshot,222.
andpinkshot,223.
andyellowshot,223.
blue,116.
brown,102,103,118,136,138.
dyeingof,234.
ironliquor,165.
Bleachingofcotton,24.
offinefabrics,42.
ofyarn,43.
Blue,96,97,98,115,125,126,130,136,145,146,155.
andgoldshotdyes,237.
andgoldyellowshot,222.
andorangeshot,224.
black,136,137,138,139,154,216,219.
developerA,130.
AN,134.
green,114.
grey,105.
Bluestone,164,165,166,178.
Bluishclaretred,187.
rose,153.
Borax,86,180,221.
Brazilwood,84,156,178,179.
Bridson'swashingmachine,36.
Brightblue,95,97,98,145,151,215,217,230.
crimson,232.
159/253
12/9/2014
grassgreen,93.
green,146,151.
grey,106.
navy,115,116.
oliveyellow,232.
orange,92.
peagreen,94.
pink,90.
red,87,145.
lilac,99.
rose,230.
scarlet,89,130,186.
seagreen,151.
straw,90.
violet,231.
walnut,143.
yellow,90,143,154,213,214,215,229.
BrilliantazurineB,146.
5G,97,211.
cochineal4R,222.
CongoR,210.
croceine,229.
3B,237.
green,145,146,147,151,154,229,231,232,233.
millinggreenB,211.
orange,92.
G,103,218,232.
orseilleC,229.
purpurine,87.
R,210.
red,88.
rhodulineredB,151.
scarlet,211,229.
G,211
violet,231.
yellow,230.
Bronzegreen,114,217.
grey,106.
Brown,101,103,117,120,127,128,130,144,164,174,180,218,232.
andblueshotdyes,222,238.
andvioletshot,223.
drab,100.
Brownishorange,186.
Buffbrown,102,118,126,135.
yellow,91.
C.
160/253
12/9/2014
Cachoudelaval,100,121.
Camwood,156,178.
Capriblue,230.
green,229.
2G,231.
Carbonateofsoda,168,209,
ofsodalye,168.
Carbonisingofwoollengoods,12.
Catechu,187.
brown,112.
FK,117.
GK,117.
Causticsoda,180.
liquor,189.
lye,196.
Cellulose,5,6.
dinitrate,14,15.
hexanitrate,14.
pentanitrate,14.
tetranitrate,14.
Ceruleine,180.
Chalk,180,181.
Chardonnet'sprocessformakingsilk,15.
Chemicalreagents,actionof,257.
Chemicingofcotton,36.
Chemistryofcottonfibre,1.
Chestnut,100,104,118,142,219.
Chicagoblue,112,227.
B,115,210.
4B,116,210.
6B,95,97,114,116,146,210,217,232,233.
R,210.
ChicagoblueG,210.
4R,99,100.
RW,114,115,119.
161/253
12/9/2014
dyes,85.
Chloramineyellow,209.
Chlorideofcopper,180.
oflime,37.
ofsoda,207.
ChlorophenineorangeR,91.
Chocolatebrown,102,143,155,172.
ChromanilblackRF,120.
4RF,119.
brown2G,119.
Chrome,157.
Chromelogwoodblack,177.
Chromemordants,259.
Chromicacid,17.
ChromineG,209.
Chromiumchloride,173.
fluoride,112.
mordant,173.
Chrysamine,85,92,101,210.
G,91,93,113,114,146.
R,92.
Chrysoidine,147,151,164,221,232,233.
R,232.
Chrysophenine,90,100,210,217,233.
G,114,119,232.
Ciliaryfibres,1.
Claret,89,146.
162/253
12/9/2014
red,174.
Claytonyellow,210.
Clothdyeingmachine,76.
Clothscarlet,160.
washingmachine,illustrationof,245,246,247.
Cochineal,156,259.
Coffeebrown,165.
Collodion,15.
Colorimetrictestforrelativevalueofdyes,268.
Colouringmatter,3.
principleofdyestuff,156.
Colourlake,18.
lakes,156.
ColumbiablackB,210,232.
FB,103,104,210,218.
FBB,105.
R,232,233.
blueG,224.
green,101,146.
ColumbiaorangeR,91,103,104.
redS,211.
yellow,91,115,209.
Comparativedyetesting,262.
Condensedwater,227.
Congoblue2B,95.
brown,210.
G,210,217,218.
163/253
12/9/2014
Corinth,232.
B,99,209,211.
G.89,211,217,224.
dyes,18,85,208,225.
orangeG,210.
R,92,210.
R,210.
red,85,107,128.
rubine,89.
Continuousdyeingmachine,79.
Copdyeing,64.
Copdyeingmachine,Beaumont's,67.
Graemiger,65,66.
Mommer's,69.
Young&Crippin,68.
Copperacetate,177.
logwoodblack,177.
nitrate,177.
sodasolution,180.
sulphate,112,164,166,177,181.
Copperas,147,164,165,166,167,172,175,178,181,200.
Cornflowerblue,218,233.
Corron'shankdyeingmachine,63.
Cottonbleaching,23.
brownA,231.
91,100,101,103,106,132,137,138,144,228.
dyeing,18.
164/253
12/9/2014
fibre,2.
illustrationof,5.
impuritiesof,3.
structureof,4.
structureandchemistryof,1.
fibres,compositionof,5.
productionofcolourdirecton,181.
scouring,23.
Cottonsilkfabrics,dyeingof,225.
Cottonwax,3.
yellow,100,210.
Couplingprocess,139.
Cream,91.
Cresylblue,229.
fastviolet2RN,232.
violet,229.
Crimson,130,135,151,155,217,219,230.
red,88,130.
CroceineAZ,223.
orange,128,211.
scarlet,128,160.
Crossdyeblack,79,107,121.
B,123.
2B,120.
drab,93,121,126.
Crossdyeing,220.
Curcumeine,extra,211,218,224.
Curcumine,209,217.
S,103,104,223.
Curcuphenine,90.
Cutch,147,156,164,165,166,167,178,181,186.
Cuticlefibres,1.
165/253
12/9/2014
Cyanoleextra,221,222,223,229,231,232,233,237.
D.
Damagesinbleachedgoods,50.
Darkblue,95,96,97,98,115,116,136,139,142,153,154,155,215,216,217,
218,219.
andgreenshotdyes,237.
andoliveshotdyes,238.
bronze,115.
brown,180,214,216,217,218,219,230,231.
andblueshot,222.
olive,165,166.
chestnut,104.
brown,101,103,117,119.
cream,231.
crimson,136,231.
drab,102,126,233.
green,93,94,113,115,127,142,144,146,151,153,214,217,219,230.
grey,119,120,154,215,218,232.
lilac,146.
maroon,89,135.
navy,95,97,98,115,126,137.
olive,92,127,164.
brown,118.
orange,91.
plum,87,99,116,138,166.
red,88,113.
Russiangreen,232.
sage,127,216.
scarlet,153,155.
seagreen,94,214,232.
slate,106,214.
stone,214.
turquoiseblue,116.
violet,156.
walnut,216.
brown,103.
yellow,90.
"Dead"cottonfibres,4.
Deepblack,104.
blue,97,126.
brown,104,118,231.
chestnutbrown,102,136.
crimson,89,232.
green,94.
leafgreen,233.
olivebrown,180.
orange,92,135,214,230.
166/253
12/9/2014
yellow,230.
pink,88.
rose,230,233.
Delahunty'sdyeingmachine,57,58.
Deltapurpurine,107.
5B,210.
Developing,131.
machineforparanitroanilinered,194.
Diamineazoblue,2B,233.
R,145.
2R,237,238.
RR,136,137.
blackB,227,232.
BH.104,106,118,136,137,138,210,215,216,237.
BO,92,100,139,210.
HW,92,93,94,95,97,102,103,104,130,132,209,214,215,228,230,
231,233.
RO,87,92,93,95,100,101,104,106,138,139,146,210,228.
blue,112.132.
2B,210.
3B,92,98,210,227.
BB,227.
BG,96,210,228.
BX,102,209,210,228.
CB,228.
G,209.
Diamineblue3R,95,100,115,116,117,119,210,228.
RW,95,98,113,114,117,120,209,210,228,230.
blackE,97,210,228.
R,102.
Bordeaux,87.
B,89,210,215,216,228.
S,210,228,231,233.
brilliantblueG,96,99,115,145,210,215,216,223,227.
bronzeG,91,93,100,106,114,115,118,139,144,210,214,228,231,232,
233.
brown,112,132.
B,209,228.
G,104,119,209,210.
3G,209,228,230.
M,90,95,102,104,118,119,138,216,217,228,231,232.
N,209,217,231,233.
S,210.
V,92,98,138,143,144,210,228,233.
Y,92.
catechineB,101,102,103,114,117,210,216.
G,89,94,101,102,103,113,117,209,210.
colours,227.
cutch,130,132,136,137,138.
167/253
12/9/2014
darkblueB,114,116,118,120,209,210,216,217,228,231,233.
greenN,93.
deepblackCr,96.
RB,104.
dyes,18,85,208,225.
fastred,F,87,89,90,113,118,209,228,230.
yellowA,90,92,114,115,116,136,137,143,144,210,213,223,227,
232,233,235,237,238.
B,89,91,92,94,97,98,113,114,117,118,119,120,138,209,214,
215,216,223,228,231,232.
gold,100,210,213,228,230,231,232.
greenB,93,97,115,146,209,214,228,230,235.
G,94,209,210,228.
greyG,106,143,228,232.
jetblack,139.
Cr,105,118,120,121.
OO,144.
RB,105,120.
newblueR,98,116,120,210.
nitrazolblackB,143,144.
brownB,143,210.
G,143,210.
dye,139.
orange,132.
B,89,92,114,117,118,119,120,209,215,216,217,228,230.
D,210.
DC,223,227,231,233,237,238.
F,209.
G,91,102,210,214,215,221,222,231.
GD,104.
GG,227,233.
red,107.
B,210.
4B,209.
5B,88,89,103,209,215,228.
6B,209.
10B,88,89,146,209,230.
N,87.
NO,210.
rose,223.
BD,88,209,215,228,230,233.
GD,99.
scarlet,107.
B,91,106,210,215,228.
3B,88,210,228.
HS,230.
S,228.
skyblue,94,97,98,145,210,215,222,237,238.
FF,94,96,98,114,115,210,222,223,227,232.
steelblueL,96,210,214,222,228.
violetN,87,99,100,145,146,210,223,228,231,238.
yellow,92.
yellowN,90,92,93,100,113,228,230.
168/253
12/9/2014
DiamineralblueR,95,116,227,238.
Diaminogene,234,235.
B,138,228,234,235.
blueBB,136,138.
extra,143,228,234,235.
DianilblackCR,97,119,142.
N,118,120,121.
blueB,94,97,98,116,142.
G,98,113.
2K,94.
4R,99,116.
brownBD,119,142.
GO,142.
3GO,103,118,119,142,143.
R,102,103,118,119,142.
T,102.
claretB,89,99,145.
G,89.
darkblueR,94,95,97,116,142,143.
3R,97,142.
brown,103.
olive,93.
orangeG,89,92.
2R,92.
red4B,89,145.
scarletG,145.
yellow,94.
G,91,98.
3G,91,94,113.
R,94,113.
2R,91.
Dianisidineblue,197.
Diazobenzenechloride,181.
Diazoblack.132,139.
blue,132.
brown,130,139.
compounds,181.
liquor,190.
Diazotisation,129.
ofamidobases,182.
Diazotisedparanitroaniline,140.
DictionaryofCoaltarColours,259.
Dinitrosoresorcine,179.
DiphenylbrownBN,103.
169/253
12/9/2014
DirectdeepblackEextra,104.
Directdyeing,85.
dyes,83.
fastnessof,106.
fastbrownB,144.
indigoblue,98.
orangeR,210.
red,testof,265.
triamineblackGX,104.
yellowG,90,106,210.
Dividivi,147,148,239.
Drab,93,165,216,218,219,231.
Dryingcylinders,255.
ofdyedgoods,249.
Dulllilac,99.
violet,100.
Dyebeck,77.
Dyehousewashingmachine,244,246.
Dyeingapparatus,263.
ofbasicdyes,149.
machinery,53,57.
onmetallicmordants,156.
testforrelativevalueofdyes,267.
Dyejigger,72,73.
Dyers'bleach,24.
Dyetank,illustrationof,54.
Dyetub,illustrationof,54.
Dyevat,sectionof,56.
E.
EboliblueB,231.
greenT,230.
Emeraldtint,154.
Eosine,84,229.
Eosines,dyeingwith,158,159.
170/253
12/9/2014
ErieblueBX,97.
2G,210.
ErikaB,87.
BN,99,100,210,224.
Erythrosine,229.
B,238.
Erythrosines,160.
Experimentaldyebath,263.
dyeing,262.
F.
Farmer'swashingmachine,36.
Fastacidgreen,229.
BN,222.
bluedeveloperAD,133.
brown,164.
neutralvioletB,154,
yellowS,223,237,238.
Fastnessofcolours,260.
ofcolourstolightandair,260
ofcolourstorubbing,261.
ofcolourstowashing,261.
ofdirectdyes,106.
Fattyacids,3.
Fawn,165.
brown,167.
drab,100,216.
Fieryyellowishred,186.
Firstgreenliquor,168.
Fixation,149.
withcouplers,139.
developers,128.
metallicsalts,112.
Flavopurpurine,171.
FormylblueB,211.
violet,84,229,233.
6B,211.
10B,211.
171/253
12/9/2014
S4B,211,214,215,216,222,231,237,238.
Fullblue,43,97.
yelloworange,186.
Furnival'sSquarebeater,30.
Fustic,156,157,166,178,259.
extract,164,165,166,167,175,176,181.
G.
Gallipolioil,168.
Galls,147,148.
Gambier,147.
Glauber'ssalt,83,108,111,209,214,215,221,222,223,
225,231,234,237.
Glycerine,180.
Goldandgreenshotdyes,221.
brown,100,101,102,103,138,142,143,153,216,230.
andblueshot,222.
drab,232.
orange,214.
yellow,91,113,130,142,230.
Goodyellow,213.
Graemigercopdyeingmachine,65,66.
Grassgreen,93.
Green,92,93,94,114,130,143,145,151,180,215.
andbuffshot,223.
andclaretshot,222.
andpinkshotdyes,238.
andorangeshot,224.
andredshot,223,224.
blue,98.
grey,106,120.
olive,92.
yellow,91.
Greeningoperation,168.
Grey,106,120,153,219.
andorangeshot,223.
blue,96.
lilac,99,153.
172/253
12/9/2014
slate,166.
souroperation,32.
Grothe,252.
Groundfustic,166.
GuineagreenB,211,218,224.
violetB,224.
4B,211,218.
Gumtragacanth,192.
Guncotton,13.
H.
Halfsilkfabrics,dyeingof,225.
Handdyeing,53.
Hankbleaching,45.
Hankdyeingmachine.Corron's,63.
KlauderWeldon's,61,62.
Hankwringingmachines,241.
Havannabrown,166.
Hawkingmachine,Holliday's,78.
Hawthorne'swashingmachine,36.
Heliotrope,99,233.
BB,90,146.
2B,99,233.
Hessianbrown2M,98.
2BN,100,231.
greyS,231.
purpleN,230.
violet,211.
Hoffmanviolet,152.
Holliday,182.
Holliday'shawkingmachine,78.
yarndyeingmachine,60.
Hurst'sSilkDyeing,225.
173/253
12/9/2014
Hydrocellulose,12.
Hydrochloricacid,177,183,184,190.
actionof,11.
Hydroextractors,251,252.
Hydrosulphiteindigovat,204.
I.
Immedialblack,107,121.
blacks,79.
blue,121.
C,125.
ImmedialbronzeA,128.
B,128.
brown,121.
Impregnationwithdyestuffsolution,198.
IndamineblueN,154.
Indazine,229.
IndianyellowG,211,213,214,216,217,222,229,231.
R,211,213,214,229,231,232.
Indigo,18,20,198.
blue,152,154.
N,229,233.
SGN,229.
carmine,165.
dyeing,199.
dyevatforcloth,199.
extract,84,167.
white,200.
Indigotin,198.
Indophenol,205.
Induline,229.
IrisamineG,152,153.
Iron,157.
liquor,172,175,176,180.
mordants,259.
stains,50.
sulphate,112.
174/253
12/9/2014
J.
JanusblackI,219.
II,219.
blueG,155.
R,155,219.
brownB,156,219.
R,219,220.
claretredB,156,219.
darkblueB,219.
dyes,155,218.
greenB,155,219,220.
greyB,156.
BB,219,220.
redB,155,219.
yellowG,219.
R,155,156,219,220.
Jetblack,121.
Jigger,72.
Jigwince,74,75.
K.
Katigenblack,121.
brown,107,121.
darkbrown,128.
green,121.
oliveG,127.
Khaki,180.
shades,248.
Kiers,30.
KlauderWeldonhankdyeingmachine,61,62.
L.
LanacylblueBB,211.
violetB,211,217.
Leafgreen,94,113,114,231.
Lehner'sprocessformakingsilk,15.
Lemonyellow,91.
175/253
12/9/2014
Leuco,198.
Lightblue,115,138.
brown,101,103,117.
chestnutbrown,137.
green,114,143.
grey,106.
indigoblue,96.
plum,99.
sagebrown,118.
sealbrown,102.
slate,106.
Lilac,98,99.
red,87.
rose,233.
Limawood,178,179.
Lime,169,202.
andcopperasvatforindigodyeing,200.
boilforcotton,28.
souroperation,32.
Logwood,18,84,156,157,165,167,234,259.
black,79,174.
dyeingonyarninhanks,175.
decoction,177.
extract,164,175,176,181.
greys,178.
Loosewoolandcotton,washingof,244.
Lyeboiloperation.34.
M.
Machineryfordyeing,53,57.
Madder,157.
bleach,24.
Magenta,18,147,153,229,231,232,233.
Malachitegreen,146,152,153,229,232.
MandarineG,211,217,218,224.
Marketbleach,24,38,39.
Maroon,89,138,153,215,233.
176/253
12/9/2014
Mather&Platt'sapparatus,207.
bleachingkier,30,31.
machine,246.
washingmachine,36.
yarnbleachingkier,49.
Mercerisationofcotton,8.
Mercerisedcottonfibres,illustrationsof,7,9.
Mercer,John,8,21.
Metallicmordants,156.
Metanitroaniline,185,186,187,188.
orange,195.
Metaphenyleneblue,229.
B,154,233.
Methyleneblue,17.
BB,153.
2B,153.
N,232.
greyBF,153.
MethylindoneB,229,231.
R,229.
Methylviolet,18,229.
B,146,151,231.
2B,146.
R,146.
3R,146.
4R,152.
Mikadobrown,227.
2B,238.
3GO,230.
M,103,230,232.
dyes,18.
goldenyellow8G,230,231.
orange,227.
G,91.
4R,91,102.
RO,232.
3RO,231.
4RO,218,224.
5RO,230,238.
yellow,227.
G,230.
Milkoflime,28,175.
177/253
12/9/2014
Millingorange,229.
yellow,229.
Mimosa,209.
Mixedcottonandwoolfabrics,dyeingof,208.
Mommer'scopdyeingmachine,69.
Mordantdyes,84.
Mordants,156.
detectionof,259.
Mossbrown,143,232.
Muslinbleaching,41.
Myrabolam,147,148,239.
extract,175,176.
N.
Naphthol,184.
azobenzene,181.
black,128.
B,223.
3B,222.
blueblack,211,214,215,216,217,222,234.
G,211,222.
R,211.
colours,182.
D,192.
X,192.
yellowS,229,238.
Naphthylamine,13,132,133,184.
black,235.
4B,211.
6B,211,217.
D,211.
ether,130.
NaphtindoneBB,153.
Navy,97,98,154.
blue,96,214,216,217.
Neutralgrey,132.
G,99,106.
violet,229.
178/253
12/9/2014
NewblueD,229.
methyleneblue,234,235.
GG,238.
M,232.
N,126,145,154,229,231,233.
NX,154.
R,153,154,233.
3R,145,153.
greyB,153.
G,154.
phosphineG.153,154,229,232.
VictoriablueB,146,151,152.
Nigraniline,206.
Nigrosine,229.
Nitrateofcopper,177.
ofiron,166,175.
NitrazolC,139,141,193.
Nitricacid,actionof,oncotton,12.
Nitriteofsoda,183.
Nitroaniline,183.
Nitrobenzene,13.
Nitronaphthalene,13.
Nitroparatoluidine,185,187,188.
Nitrosamine,193.
red,195.
Nitrosoresorcine,18.
Nitrousacid,184.
Nutbrown,103,118,119,218,219.
O.
Oakbark,147.
Obermaiermachine,57,59.
Oilstains,50.
Oldgold,90,232.
179/253
12/9/2014
Olive,92,93,127,143,164.
andblueshotdyes,238.
brown,143,154.
green,114,142,144,153.
oil,170.
yellow,91.
Orange,84,91,113,130,137,151,153,154,155,215,217.
andblueshot,224,238.
andvioletshot,223,238.
brown,102.
ENZ,211,214,217,222.
extra,211,223,232.
GG,221,222,231,232,233,238.
TA,218.
yellow,143,186.
Orthoamidoazotoluol,186,187,188.
Orthonitrotoluidine,196.
Oxidisingagents,actionof,oncotton,16.
Oxycellulose,16.
OxydiamineblackA,97,105,209.
BM,209,215,216,217.
D,209,228,233,234.
M,209.
N,91,97.
NR,105.
SOOO,210,228,231,233.
orangeG,104,209.
R,92,104,143,144,209.
redS,209.
violetB,99,100,210,214,228,230,231,233.
G,99,100.
yellowGG,94,146,209.
Oxydianilyellow,143.
Oxymuriateoftin,166.
Oxyphenine,91,102,209.
P.
Paddingmachine,80,81,193,221.
Paleblue,95,97.
brown,102,119,122,128,164,180.
chamois,166.
chestnut,143.
180/253
12/9/2014
drab,233.
fawnbrown,119,130.
red,89.
goldyellow,213.
green,94,151.
greenishgrey,120.
leafgreen,113.
lilac,99.
nutbrown,102.
olivebrown,100.
green,113.
orange,91,92,135.
sage,144.
green,217.
salmon,87.
seagreen,127,232.
skyblue,95.
walnutbrown,104.
Palmoilsoap,169.
ParamineblueB,96.
blackS,96.
brownC,117.
G,101.
indigoblue,96.
navyblueR,96.
Paranitroaniline,185,186,187,188,190.
brown,196.
red,186,188,189.
dyedcotton,196.
dyetub,191.
onpiecegoods,192.
onyarn,189.
withazophorredPN,195.
withnitrazolC,195.
Paratoluidine,186,187,188.
Parchmentpaper,11.
Parisviolet,152.
Patentblue,84.
Peachwood,178.
Peacockgreen,214,216.
Peagreen,114,233.
Pecticacid,3.
181/253
12/9/2014
Permanganateofpotash,17.
Persianberries,156,178,179.
Phenetidine,183.
Phenol,130,132,133,181.
Phenylenediamine,130,132,134,235,237.
Phosphateofsoda,86,90,91,168,170,180,225.
Piecedyeingmachines,71.
Piecegoods,dryingof,256.
washingof,244.
wringingof,241.
Pink,87,88,89,152,215.
Platesingeing,27.
Plum,99,145,146,215.
PlutoblackB,108,144.
PonceauB,164.
3RB,211,217.
Potash,86.
Primrose,91,154.
Primuline,130,131,132,135,136,138,142,143,144,209.
Productionofcolourdirectoncottonfibres,181.
Prussiateblack,207.
Pureblue,238.
solubleblue,237.
Purplebrown,100.
Purpuramine,DH,107.
Pyroligniteofiron,172.
Pyroxyline,13.
Q.
Quercitron,156,178,179.
182/253
12/9/2014
bark,178.
extract,164,165.
Quicklime,200.
R.
Rayer&Lincolnmachine,26.
ReadHolliday'ssqueezingmachine,241.
Red,136,187.
brown,100,135.
chocolate,119.
developerC,192.
drab,165.
lilac,100.
liquor,165,166,169,170,176,
orange,91.
plum,117,214.
violet,99,116,152,155,156.
Reddishbrown,102.
puce,187.
Reseda,93.
green,167.
Resinboil,35.
soapliquor,35.
Resorcine,130,132,133,235.
green,156.
Rhodamine,229,231.
B,153,233.
G,152.
6,G,152.
S,237.
Rhodulineviolet,151.
Rocceleine,211.
Rollersqueezingmachinesforyarn,241.
RoseazurineB,87.
G,87,90.
bengale,229.
lilac,145,151.
pink,87.
red,88,89.
183/253
12/9/2014
Rosophenine,5B,88.
Russiagreen,92,113,143,153.
S.
Safranine,18,146,153,221,229,231,233.
G,146.
prima,153.
S,155.
Sage,214.
brown,104,119,135,144,218.
green,93,180,230.
St.Dennisblack,121.
Salinesalts,quantityused,108.
Salmon,89.
Salt,165.
Satinfabrics,dyeingof,225.
Scarlet,88,89,135,145,146,152,153,155,215,217,230.
R,220.
Schaeffer'sacid,134.
Scouringcotton,23.
Seagreen,94,151.
Sealbrown,146.
Seedhairs,1.
Shoteffects,220.
onsatin,dyeingof,235.
withblackcottonwarp,236.
Silvergrey,106.
Singeingofcotton,27.
washofcotton,28.
Skyblue,95,98,151,215.
Slate,106,218,231,233.
blue,97,120,152,216.
green,218.
184/253
12/9/2014
Sliverdyeing,58.
Slubbingdyeing,58.
Soap,165.
effectondyestuffs,226.
Soapingofdyedgoods,247.
Soda,86,132,178.
ash,34,166.
crystals,169.
lye,202,235.
zincvatforindigodyeing,204.
Sodiumacetate,196.
bichromate,164.
nitritesolution,196,198.
stannate,preparingwith,158.
Solidblue,229.
green,229.
O,179,180.
SolidogenA,145.
Solubleblue,150,160,229.
Spencer'shankwringingmachine,241.
Squeezingrollers,240.
Stainsinbleachedgoods,50.
Steamanilineblack,207.
blacks,248.
Steamingandageingchamber,250.
cottage,illustrationof,249.
ofdyedgoods,248.
Stearicacid,3.
Stitchingofcotton,25.
Stone,218.
Structureofcottonfibre,1.
Sulfanilineblack,121.
G,124.
brown,121.
4B,127.
185/253
12/9/2014
Sulphateofcopper,177.
ofiron,167.
Sulphonates,182.
SulphonazurineB,210,217,218.
D,93.
Sulphurcolours,121.
Sulphuricacid,166.
actionof,oncotton,10.
Sulphylcolours,121.
Sumac,83,147,148,165,166,167,172,173,178,239.
extract,169,175,219,220.
Sunyellow,90.
T.
Tannicacid,18,20,83,147,172.
mordant,dyeingon,147.
Tannin,173,174,236.
grounding,173.
heliotrope,145,153,229.
orangeR,154,155,229.
Tanning,148.
Tartaremetic,147,192,219,220.
Tartaricacid,180.
Temperatureofdyebaths,226.
Terracottabrown,143.
red,90,143.
Testingofthecolourofdyedfabrics,257.
Thiazoleyellow,93,94,209.
ThiocarmineR,84,211,214.
ThioflavineS,94,104,106,209,213,215,222,223,228,229.
T,153,154,229,231,232.
Tincrystals,147,169,179.
oxide,fixing,158.
186/253
12/9/2014
Titanblue,210,211.
3B,93,102,164.
R,102.
brownO,210.
P,164.
R,102,210.
Y,161,210.
colours,227.
comoG,95.
SN,98.
dyes,18,85.
gold,101,102.
ingrainblue,135,136,142.
marineblue,211.
navyR,98.
orange,88.
N,95.
pink,210.
red,107.
scarletC,88.
D,88.
S,209.
yellow,210.
G,145.
GG,90.
TitanyellowY,90,92,93,164.
Toluidine,185,187,188.
orange,196.
Toluylenebrown,139.
diamine,134.
orange,139.
G,90,91,100.
K,100.
Topping,140.
withacidandbasicdyestuffs,228.
withbasicdyes,145.
Triamineblack,132.
B,96,137.
BT,98.
TropolineO,229.
OO,211,229.
Truckyarndyer,254,255.
Turkeyred,87,167,181.
bleach,38,39.
oil,88,90,95,96,160,170,171,172,173,180,189,192,196.
187/253
12/9/2014
Turmeric,165,166,167.
Turquoiseblue,98,116,151,155,232.
G,146,151,152.
U.
UnionblackB,209,214.
S,209,214,215,216,217,228,234.
blueBB,209.
V.
Valonia,147.
Verdigris,177.
Victoriablue,150.
B,151,152.
Vidalblack,107,121,123.
blacks,79.
Violet,99,100,146,154,230.
andyellowshotdyes,238.
blue,97.
W.
Walnutbrown,102,119,138,142,219,233.
Warpbleaching,43.
Warpdyeingmachines,69,70,71.
Washingafterdyeing,239.
Washingandsoapingvats,illustrationof,248.
ofcottoninbleaching,36.
operationsafterdyeing,242.
Waterblue,229.
ofcondition,6.
volumeusedindyeing,107.
Whiteindigo,198.
liquortreatment,168.
souroperation,38.
Whizzing,45.
188/253
12/9/2014
Willesdenwaterproofcloths,22.
Wincedyebeck,74.
Witz,George,17.
Woolblack6B,211,217,218,223,224.
green,84.
Worral'ssingeingmachine,27.
Wringingofdyedgoods,239.
Y.
Yarnbleaching,43.
washingmachine,illustrationof,243.
Yarnsincopform,washingof,244.
inhanks,washingof,244.
inhanks,wringingof,240.
Yellow,90,91,113,151.
andvioletshotdyes,237.
olive,91.
Yellowishclaretred,187.
Young&Crippin'scopdyeingmachine,68.
Z.
Zambesiblack,132.
B,210,218.
BR,97.
D,103,104,218.
F,115,119,210.
blue,130,
BX,136.
RX,217,218.
brown,130.
G,210.
2G,136,210.
dyes,85,208.
Zincandlimevatforindigodyeing,201.
bisulphiteindigovat,203.
chloride,20.
sulphate,112.
189/253
12/9/2014
THEABERDEENUNIVERSITYPRESS
LIMITED.
SEPTEMBER,1901.
ThisCataloguecancelsallformereditions.
ThePublishersseektoissuethoroughlyhelpfulworks.Thesebooksin
everyinstancewill,theybelieve,befoundofgoodvalue.Employers
willdowelltoplacecopiesofthesebooksinthehandsofthebright
andpromisingyoungmenintheiremploy,inorderthebettertoequip
themtobecomeincreasinglyusefulasemployees.Aworkmanwho
useshisbrainsmustbepreferabletoonewhodoesnotthinkabouthis
work.Brainsrequirestimulus.Thesebooksprovidethatstimulus.
ACatalogue
OF
SpecialTechnicalWorks
FOR
MANUFACTURERS,PROFESSIONALMEN,STUDENTS,
COLLEGESANDTECHNICALSCHOOLS
BYEXPERTWRITERS
FORTHE
OIL,PAINT,COLOURVARNISH,SOAP,CHEMICAL,TEXTILE,LEATHER,
PAPER,COLLIERY,POTTERY,GLASS,PLUMBINGANDDECORATING
TRADESANDSCIENTIFICPROFESSIONS.
PUBLISHEDBY
SCOTT,GREENWOOD&CO.,
PUBLISHERSOFTECHNICALBOOKS,
19LUDGATEHILL,LONDON,E.C.
Tel.Address:"PRINTERIES,LONDON".Tel.No.5403,Bank.
N.B.FullParticularsofContentsofanyofthefollowingbookssentpostfreeon
application.
Messrs.Scott,Greenwood&.Co.areopentomakeoffersforthepublication
oftechnicalworks.
190/253
12/9/2014
BooksonOils,Soaps,Colours,Chemicals,Glue,
Varnishes,etc.
THEPRACTICALCOMPOUNDINGOFOILS,TALLOWANDGREASE
FORLUBRICATION,ETC.
ByANEXPERTOILREFINER.100pp.1898.Demy8vo.Price7s.6d.India
andColonies,8s.OtherCountries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,IntroductoryRemarksontheGeneralNomenclatureofOils,Tallow
andGreasessuitableforLubrication.II.,HydrocarbonOils.III.,Animaland
FishOils.IV.,CompoundOils.V.,VegetableOils.VI.,LampOils.VII.,
EngineTallow,SolidifiedOilsandPetroleumJelly.VIII.,MachineryGreases:
LocoandAntifriction.IX.,ClarifyingandUtilisationofWasteFats,Oils,Tank
Bottoms,DrainingsofBarrelsandDrums,PickingsUp,Dregs,etc.X.,The
FixingandCleaningofOilTanks,etc.AppendixandGeneralInformation.
PressOpinions.
"Thisworkiswrittenfromthestandpointoftheoiltrade,butits
perusalwillbefoundveryusefulbyusersofmachineryandallwho
havetodowithlubricantsinanyway."CollieryGuardian.
"Thepropertiesofthedifferentgradesofmineraloilandoftheanimal
andvegetablenondryingoilsarecarefullydescribed,andtheauthor
justlyinsiststhatthepeculiaritiesofthemachineryonwhichthe
lubricantsaretobeemployedmustbeconsideredalmostbefore
everythingelse....Thechaptersongreaseandsolidifiedoils,etc.,are
excellent."TheIronmonger.
SOAPS.APracticalManualoftheManufactureofDomestic,Toiletandother
Soaps.ByGEORGEH.HURST,F.C.S.IllustratedwithSixtysixEngravings.390
pp.1898.Price12s.6d.IndiaandColonies,13s.6d.OtherCountries,15s.strictly
net.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,Introductory.II.,Soapmaker'sAlkalies.III.,SoapFatsandOils.
IV.,Perfumes.V.,WaterasaSoapMaterial.VI.,SoapMachinery.VII.,
TechnologyofSoapmaking.VIII.,GlycerineinSoapLyes.IX.,Layingouta
SoapFactory.X.,SoapAnalysis.Appendices.
PressOpinions.
"Wethinkitisthemostpracticalbookonthesesubjectsthathascome
tousfromEnglandsofar."AmericanSoapJournal.
"Muchusefulinformationisconveyedinaconvenientandtrustworthy
mannerwhichwillappealtopracticalsoapmakers."ChemicalTrade
Journal.
191/253
12/9/2014
"Worksthatdealwithmanufacturingprocesses,andappliedchemistry
inparticular,arealwayswelcome.Especiallyisthisthecasewhenthe
materialpresentedissouptodateaswefindithere."Bradford
Observer.
"Thebestandmostreliablemethodsofanalysisarefullydiscussed,
andformavaluablesourceofreferencetoanyworks'chemist....Our
verdictisacapitallyproducedbook,andonethatisbadly
needed."BirminghamPost.
ANIMALFATSANDOILS:TheirPracticalProduction,PurificationandUsesfor
agreatVarietyofPurposes.TheirProperties,FalsificationandExamination.A
HandbookforManufacturersofOilandFatProducts,SoapandCandleMakers,
Agriculturists,Tanners,MargarineManufacturers,etc.,etc.ByLOUISEDGAR
ANDS.SixtytwoIllustrations.240pp.1898.Demy8vo.Price10s.6d.Indiaand
Colonies,11s.OtherCountries,12s.strictlynet.
Contents.
Introduction.Occurrence,Origin,PropertiesandChemicalConstitutionofAnimal
FatsPreparationofAnimalFatsandOils.Machinery.TallowmeltingPlant.
ExtractionPlant.Presses.FilteringApparatus.Butter:RawMaterialand
Preparation,Properties,Adulterations.BeefLardorRemeltedButter,Testing.
CandlefishOil.MuttonTallow.HareFat.GooseFat.NeatsfootOil.BoneFat:
BoneBoiling,SteamingBones,.Extraction,Refining.BoneOil.ArtificialButter:
Oleomargarine,MargarineManufactureinFrance,Grasso'sProcess,"Kaiser's
Butter,"Jahr&Mnzberg'sMethod,Filbert'sProcess,Winter'sMethod.Human
Fat.HorseFat.BeefMarrow.TurtleOil.Hog'sLard:RawMaterial,Preparation,
Properties,Adulterations,Examination.LardOil.FishOils.LiverOils.Artificial
TrainOil.WoolFat:Properties,PurifiedWoolFat.Spermaceti:Examinationof
FatsandOilsinGeneral.
[Pga3]
PressOpinions.
"Thedescriptionsoftechnicalprocessesareclear,andthebookiswell
illustratedandshouldproveuseful."ManchesterGuardian.
"Itisavaluablework,notonlyforthestudent,butalsoforthepractical
manufacturerofoilandfatproducts."JournaloftheAmerican
ChemicalSociety.
"Theworkisveryfullyillustrated,andthestylethroughoutisinstrong
contrasttothatemployedinmanysuchtreatises,beingsimpleand
clear."ShoeandLeatherRecord.
"Animportanthandbookforthe'fatindustry,'nowalargeone.The
explanationofthemostscientificprocessesofproductionlosenothing
oftheirclearnessinthetranslation."NewcastleChronicle.
"Thelatestandmostimprovedformsofmachineryareinallcases
indicated,andthemanyadvanceswhichhavebeenmadeduringthe
pastyearsinthemethodsofproducingthemorecommonanimalfats
lard,tallowandbutterreceivedueattention."GlasgowHerald.
192/253
12/9/2014
VEGETABLEFATSANDOILS:TheirPracticalPreparation,Purificationand
EmploymentforVariousPurposes,theirProperties,AdulterationandExamination.
AHandbookforOilManufacturersandRefiners,Candle,SoapandLubricatingOil
Makers,andtheOilandFatIndustryinGeneral.TranslatedfromtheGermanof
LOUISEDGARANDS.94Illustrations.320pp.1897.Demy8vo.Price10s.6d.
IndiaandColonies,11s.OtherCountries,12s.strictlynet.
Contents.
StatisticalData.GeneralPropertiesoftheVegetableFatsandOils.Estimationof
theAmountofOilinSeeds.TableofVegetableFatsandOils,withFrenchand
GermanNomenclature,SourceandOriginandPercentageofFatinthePlantsfrom
whichtheyareDerived.ThePreparationofVegetableFatsandOils:StoringOil
Seeds:CleaningtheSeed.ApparatusforGrindingOilSeedsandFruits.Installation
ofOilandFatWorks.ExtractionMethodofObtainingOilsandFats.OilExtraction
Installations,PressMoulds,NondryingVegetableOils.VegetabledryingOils.
SolidVegetableFats.FruitsYieldingOilsandFats.WoolsofteningOils.Soluble
Oils.TreatmentoftheOilafterLeavingthePress.ImprovedMethodsofRefining
withSulphuricAcidandZincOxideorLeadOxide.RefiningwithCaustic
Alkalies,Ammonia,CarbonatesoftheAlkalies,Lime.BleachingFatsandOils.
PracticalExperimentsontheTreatmentofOilswithregardtoRefiningand
Bleaching.TestingOilsandFats.
PressOpinions.
"Concerningthatandallelsewithinthewideandcomprehensive
connectioninvolved,thisbookmustbeinvaluabletoeveryonedirectly
orindirectlyinterestedinthemattersittreatsof."Commerce."The
proprietorsoftheOilandColourman'sJournalhavenotonlyplaceda
valuableandhighlyinterestingbookofreferenceinthehandsofthe
fatsandoilsindustryingeneral,buthaverenderednoslightserviceto
experimentalandmanufacturingchemists."ManufacturingChemist.
IRONCORROSION,ANTIFOULINGANDANTICORROSIVEPAINTS.
ByLOUISEDGARANDS.62Illustrations.275pp.TranslatedfromtheGerman.
Demy8vo.1900.Price10s.6d.IndiaandColonies,11s.OtherCountries,12s.
strictlynet.
Contents.
IronrustanditsFormationProtectionfromRustingbyPaintGroundingtheIron
withLinseedOil,etc.TestingPaintsUseofTarforPaintingonIronAnti
corrosivePaintsLinseedVarnishChineseWoodOilLeadPigmentsIron
PigmentsArtificialIronOxidesCarbonPreparationofAnticorrosivePaints
ResultsofExaminationofSeveralAnticorrosivePaintsPaintsforShip's
BottomsAntifoulingCompositionsVariousAnticorrosiveandShip'sPaints
OfficialStandardSpecificationsforIronworkPaintsIndex.
PressOpinions.
"Thisisaveryvaluablebook,translatedfromtheGerman,discussing
indetailantifoulingandanticorrosivepaints."BritishMercury.
"Willbeofgreatservicetopaintmanufacturers,engineering
contractors,ironfounders,shipbuildersandothers."Engineerand
IronTradesAdvertiser.
193/253
12/9/2014
"Thebookbeforeusdealswiththesubjectinamanneratonce
practicalandscientific,andiswellworthyoftheattentionofall
builders,architectsandengineers."TheBuilder.
"Thebookisveryreadableandfullofvaluableinformation,and
bearinginmindtheimportanceofthesubjecttreated,itisonewhich
engineerswillbewelladvisedtoprocureatanearlydate."Railway
Engineer.
"Theauthorgoesfullyintohissubject,andthetranslatorhasbeen
successfulinreproducinginanotherlanguagewhathehastosay.
Therearegiveninthetextnumerousillustrationsoftherustingofiron,
preparedinthecourseofaseriesofpersonalexperimentsonthe
formationofrust."JournalofGasLighting.
"Thisworkisaveryelaborateandusefulrecordofthevarious
phenomenainconnectionwiththecorrosionofironanditsprotection
againstcorrosion....Thebookisanexceedinglyusefulrecordofwhat
hasbeendoneinconnectionwithironpreservation,andwill
undoubtedlyprovetobeofmuchvaluetorailwayengineers,
shipowners,etc."Fairplay.
[Pga4]
"HerrAnds'book,writtenpurelyfromascientificstandpoint,willbe
particularlyusefultoironmanufacturers,shipbuildersand
shipowners....Thebookisbeautifullyprintedongoodpaper,andits
appearancedoescredittothepublisherstheworkoftranslationhas
beenremarkablywelldone,thelanguagebearingnoneofthose
irritatingtracesofTeutonismwhichdisfiguresomanyEnglish
versionsofGermantechnicalworks."TheIronmonger.
"ThisknowledgeisconveyedwithcharacteristicGermanthoroughness
inthisusefulworkofHerrAnds,whichlosesnothingofclearnessin
Mr.Salter'sexcellenttranslation.Thecausesofrustformationare
examined,thepropermethodsofcleansingtheironworkdetailed,and
theconstitutionandapplicationofsuitablepreventativecoverings
explained....Thebookisawelcomecontributiontotechnological
literature,andwillbefoundworthyofthecarefulstudyofallwhoare
professionallyengagedinthearrangementorsuperintendenceofthe
classofworkdealtwith."WesternDailyMercury.
"Theauthorexplainsthenatureofrustanditsformation,andthetextis
illustratedfromaboutfiftyphotographs.Animmenseamountof
carefullyarrangedinformationfollowsastothebestmethodsof
applyinganticorrosivesubstancesandthevariouspigmentsmost
efficaciousforuseunderallcircumstances.Theauthorhasevidently
thoroughlyinvestigatedandmasteredthesubjectofironcorrosion,its
causeanditspreventionandweregardhisbookasofthegreatest
importancetobridgebuildersandmakersandusersofstructuraliron
andsteel.Thebookisillustratedthroughoutandisadmirablyindexed
andarranged."IronandSteelTradesJournal.
THEMANUFACTUREOFALUMANDTHESULPHATESANDOTHER
SALTSOFALUMINAANDIRON.TheirUsesandApplicationsasMordantsin
DyeingandCalicoPrinting,andtheirotherApplicationsintheArts,Manufactures,
SanitaryEngineering,AgricultureandHorticulture.TranslatedfromtheFrenchof
LUCIENGESCHWIND.195Illustrations.Nearly400pp.Royal8vo.1901.Price
194/253
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12s.6d.IndiaandColonies,13s.6d.OtherCountries,15s.strictlynet.
Contents.
PartI.,TheoreticalStudyofAluminium,Iron,andCompoundsoftheseMetals.
ChaptersI.,AluminiumanditsCompounds.II.,IronandIronCompounds.
PartII.,ManufactureofAluminiumSulphatesandSulphatesofIron.
ChaptersIII.,ManufactureofAluminiumSulphateandtheAlums.IV.,
ManufactureofSulphatesofIron.
PartIII.,UsesoftheSulphatesofAluminiumandIron.ChaptersV.,Usesof
AluminiumSulphateandAlumsApplicationtoWoolandSilkPreparingand
usingAluminiumAcetatesEmploymentofAluminiumSulphateinCarbonising
WoolTheManufactureofLakePigmentsManufactureofPrussianBlueHide
andLeatherIndustryPaperMakingHardeningPlasterLimeWashes
PreparationofNoninflammableWood,etc.PurificationofWasteWaters.VI.,
UsesandApplicationsofFerrousSulphateandFerricSulphates.Dyeing
ManufactureofPigmentsWritingInksPurificationofLightingGas
AgricultureCottonDyeingDisinfectantPurifyingWasteLiquors
ManufactureofNordhausenSulphuricAcidFertilising.
PartIV.,ChemicalCharacteristicsofIronandAluminium.Analysisof
VariousAluminousorFerruginousProducts.ChapterVII.,Aluminium.
AnalysingAluminiumProducts.AluniteAluminaSodiumAluminate
AluminiumSulphate.ChapterVIII.,Iron.AnalyticalCharacteristicsofIronSalts
AnalysisofPyriticLigniteFerrousandFerricSulphatesRouilMordant
Index.
MANUALOFAGRICULTURALCHEMISTRY.ByHERBERTINGLE,
F.I.C.,LectureronAgriculturalChemistry,theYorkshireCollegeLecturerinthe
VictoriaUniversity.[Inthepress.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,Introduction.II.,TheAtmosphere.III.,TheSoil.IV.,The
ReactionsoccurringinSoils.V.,TheAnalysisofSoils.VI.,Manures,Natural.
VII.,Manures(continued).VIII.,TheAnalysisofManures.IX.,The
ConstituentsofPlants.X.,ThePlant.XI,Crops.XII.,TheAnimal.
LUBRICATINGOILS,FATSANDGREASES:TheirOrigin,Preparation,
Properties,UsesandAnalyses.AHandbookforOilManufacturers,Refinersand
Merchants,andtheOilandFatIndustryinGeneral.ByGEORGEH.HURST,
F.C.S.SecondEdition.SixtyfiveIllustrations.313pp.Demy8vo.1901.Price10s.
6d.IndiaandColonies,11s.OtherCountries,12s.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,Introductory.OilsandFats,FattyOilsandFats,HydrocarbonOils,
UsesofOils.II.,HydrocarbonOils.Distillation,SimpleDistillation,Destructive
Distillation,ProductsofDistillation,Hydrocarbons,Paraffins,Olefins,Napthenes.
III.,ScotchShaleOils.ScotchShales,DistillationofScotchOils,ShaleRetorts,
[Pga5]
ProductsofDistillingShales.
SeparatingProducts,TreatingCrudeShaleOil,RefiningShaleOil,ShaleOilStills,
ShaleNaphthaBurningOils,LubricatingOils,Wax.IV.,Petroleum.Occurrence,
Geology,Origin,Composition,Extraction,Refining,PetroleumStills,Petroleum
Products,CylinderOils,RussianPetroleum,DebloomingMineralOils.V.,
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VegetableandAnimalOils.Introduction,ChemicalCompositionofOilsandFats,
FattyAcids,Glycerine,ExtractionofAnimalandVegetableFatsandOils,Animal
Oils,VegetableOils,Rendering,Pressing,Refining,Bleaching,Tallow,Tallow
Oil,LardOil,NeatsfootOil,PalmOil,PalmNutOil,CocoanutOil,CastorOil,
OliveOil,RapeandColzaOils,ArachisOil,NigerSeedOil,SpermOils,Whale
Oil,SealOil,BrownOils,Lardine,ThickenedRapeOil.VI.,Testingand
AdulterationofOils.SpecificGravity,AlkaliTests,SulphuricAcidTests,Free
AcidsinOils,ViscosityTests,FlashandFireTests,EvaporationTests,Iodineand
BromideTests,ElaidinTest,MeltingPointofFat,TestingMachines.VII.,
LubricatingGreases.RosinOil,AnthraceneOil,MakingGreases,Testingand
AnalysisofGreases.VIII.,Lubrication.FrictionandLubrication,Lubricant,
LubricationofOrdinaryMachinery,SpontaneousCombustionofOils,Stainless
Oils,LubricationofEngineCylinders,CylinderOils.Appendices.A.Tableof
Baume'sHydrometerB.TableofThermometricDegreesC.TableofSpecific
GravitiesofOilsIndex.
PressOpinions.
"Thebookiswellprinted,andisacreditaliketoauthor,printerand
publisher."TextileMercury.
"Itwillbeavaluableadditiontothetechnicallibraryofeverysteam
user'sestablishment."MachineryMarket.
"Mr.Hursthasinthisworksuppliedapracticaltreatisewhichshould
proveofespecialvaluetooildealers,andalso,thoughinalessdegree,
tooilusers."TextileManufacturer.
"Thisisaclearandconcisetreatmentofthemethodofmanufacturing
andrefininglubricatingoils....Thebookisonewhichiswellworthy
theattentionofreaderswhoareusersofoil."TextileRecorder.
"Wehavenohesitationinsayingthatinouropinionthisbookoughtto
beveryusefultoallthosewhoareinterestedinoils,whetheras
manufacturersorusersoflubricants,ortothosechemistsorengineers
whosedutyitmaybetoreportuponthesuitabilityofthesameforany
particularclassofwork."Engineer.
"Theauthoriswidelyknownandhighlyrespectedasanauthorityon
thechemistryofoilsandthetechnicsoflubrication,anditissafeto
saythatnoworkofsimilarinterestorequalvaluetothegeneraloil
sellingandconsumingpublichasheretoforeappearedintheEnglish
language."Drugs,OilsandPaints,U.S.A.
"Thisvaluableandusefulwork,whichisbothscientificandpractical,
hasbeenwrittenwithaviewofsupplyingthosewhodealinanduse
oils,etc.,forthepurposeoflubrication,withsomeinformation
respectingthespecialpropertiesofthevariousproductswhichcause
thesevariousoilstobeofvalueaslubricants."IndustriesandIron.
"Amereglanceatthetableofcontentsissufficienttoshowhow
variousaretheconditionstowhichthesematerialshavetobeapplied,
howmuchknowledgeisrequiredfortheselectionoftherightkindfor
eachparticularpurpose,andhowbyprocessesofmixtureor
manufacturetherequisitequalitiesareobtainedineach
case."ManchesterGuardian.
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AMMONIAANDITSCOMPOUNDS:TheirManufactureandUses.By
CAMILLEVINCENT,ProfessorattheCentralSchoolofArtsandManufactures,
Paris.TranslatedfromtheFrenchbyM.J.SALTER.Royal8vo.113pp.1901.
ThirtytwoIllustrations.Price5s.IndiaandColonies,5s.6d.OtherCountries,6s.
strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,GeneralConsiderations:Sections1.VariousSourcesofAmmoniacal
Products2.HumanUrineasaSourceofAmmonia.II.,Extractionof
AmmoniacalProductsfromSewage:Sections1.PreliminaryTreatmentof
ExcretaintheSettlingTanksTheLencauchezProcess,TheBilangeProcess,The
KuentzProcess2.TreatmentoftheClarifiedLiquorsfortheManufactureof
AmmoniumSulphateTheFigueraProcessandApparatus,Apparatusof
MargueritteandSourdeval,TheLairApparatus,ApparatusofSintierandMuhe,
ApparatusofBilange,TheKuentzProcess,ProcessandApparatusofHennebutte
andDeVaural3.TreatmentofEntireSewageChevalet'sApparatus,Paul
Mallet'sApparatus,Lencauchez'sApparatus.III.,ExtractionofAmmoniafrom
GasLiquor:Sections1.ClarificationofGasLiquor2.Manufactureof
AmmoniumSulphateA.Mallet'sApparatus,A.Mallet'sModifiedApparatus,
PaulMallet'sApparatus,Chevalet'sApparatus,Grneberg'sApparatus3.
ConcentrationofGasLiquorSolvay'sApparatus,Kuentz'sApparatus,
Grneberg'sApparatus.IV.,ManufactureofAmmoniacalCompoundsfrom
Bones,NitrogenousWaste,BeetrootWashandPeat:Sections1.Ammoniafrom
Bones:2.AmmoniafromNitrogenousWasteMaterials3.AmmoniafromBeetroot
Wash(Vinasse):4.AmmoniafromPeatTreatmentoftheAmmoniacalLiquors.
V.,ManufactureofCausticAmmonia,andAmmoniumChloride,Phosphate
andCarbonate:Sections1.ManufactureofCausticAmmonia2.Manufactureof
AmmoniumChlorideFromFermentedUrine,ProcessoftheLesageCompany,
Kuentz'sProcessFromGasLiquor,EnglishProcess,Kuentz'sProcessFromthe
DryDistillationofAnimalMatterFromAmmoniumSulphate,Sublimation3.
AmmoniumPhosphates4.CarbonatesofAmmoniumSesquicarbonatefrom
AnimalMatter,EnglishProcess.Uses.VI.,RecoveryofAmmoniafromthe
AmmoniaSodaMotherLiquors:Sections1.GeneralConsiderations2.
ApparatusofSchlsingandRolland3.ApparatusoftheSocitAnonymede
[Pga6]
l'Est.Index.
THEMANUFACTUREOFVARNISHES,OILREFININGANDBOILING,
ANDKINDREDINDUSTRIES.DescribingtheManufactureofSpiritVarnishes
andOilVarnishesRawMaterials:Resins,SolventsandColouringPrinciples
DryingOils:theirProperties,ApplicationsandPreparationbybothHotandCold
ProcessesManufacture,EmploymentandTestingofDifferentVarnishes.
TranslatedfromtheFrenchofACH.LIVACHE,IngnieurCivildesMines.
GreatlyExtendedandAdaptedtoEnglishPractice,withnumerousOriginal
Recipes.ByJOHNGEDDESMCINTOSH,LectureronOils,Coloursand
Varnishes,RegentStreetPolytechnic.TwentysevenIllustrations.400pp.Demy
8vo.1899.Price12s.6d.IndiaandColonies,13s.6d.OtherCountries,15s.
strictlynet.
Contents.
I.Resins:GumResins,OleoResinsandBalsams,CommercialVarieties,Source,
Collection,Characteristics,ChemicalProperties,PhysicalProperties,Hardness,
Adulterations.AppropriateSolvents,SpecialTreatment,SpecialUse.II.
Solvents:Natural,Artificial,Manufacture,Storage,SpecialUse.III.Colouring:
Principles,(1)Vegetable,(2)CoalTar,(3)ColouredResinates,(4)Coloured
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OleatesandLinoleates.GumRunning:Furnaces,Bridges,Flues,ChimneyShafts,
MeltingPots,Condensers,BoilingorMixingPans,CopperVessels,IronVessels
(Cast),IronVessels(Wrought),IronVessels(Silvered),IronVessels(Enamelled),
SteamSuperheatedPlant,HotairPlant.SpiritVarnishManufacture:Cold
SolutionPlant,MechanicalAgitators,HotSolutionPlant,JackettedPans,
MechanicalAgitators,ClarificationandFiltration,BleachingPlant,StoragePlant.
Manufacture,CharacteristicsandUsesoftheSpiritVarnishesyieldedby:
Amber,Copal,Dammar,Shellac,Mastic,Sandarac,Rosin,Asphalt,IndiaRubber,
GuttaPercha,Collodion,Celluloid,Resinates,Oleates.ManufactureofVarnish
Stains.ManufactureofLacquers.ManufactureofSpiritEnamels.Analysisof
SpiritVarnishes.PhysicalandChemicalConstantsofResins.Tableof
SolubilityofResinsindifferentMenstrua.SystematicqualitativeAnalysisof
Resins,Hirschop'stables.DryingOils:OilCrushingPlant,OilExtractionPlant,
IndividualOils,SpecialTreatmentofLinseedOil,PoppyseedOil,WalnutOil,
HempseedOil,LlamantiaOil,JapaneseWoodOil,GurjunBalsam,Climatic
InfluenceonSeedandOil.OilRefining:Processes,Thenard's,Liebig's,
Filtration,Storage,OldTankedOil.OilBoiling:FireBoilingPlant,Steam
BoilingPlant,HotAirPlant,AirPumps,MechanicalAgitators,Vincent'sProcess,
Hadfield'sPatent,Storer'sPatent,Walton'sProcesses,ContinentalProcesses,Pale
BoiledOil,DoubleBoiledOil,HartleyandBlenkinsop'sProcess.Driers:
Manufacture,SpecialIndividualUseof(1)Litharge,(2)SugarofLead,(3)Red
Lead,(4)LeadBorate,(5)LeadLinoleate,(6)LeadResinate,(7)BlackOxideof
Manganese,(8)ManganeseAcetate,(9)ManganeseBorate,(10)Manganese
Resinate,(II)ManganeseLinoleate,MixedResinatesandLinoleates,Manganese
andLead,ZincSulphate,Terebine,LiquidDriers.SolidifiedBoiledOil.
ManufactureofLinoleum.ManufactureofIndiaRubberSubstitutes.Printing
InkManufactureLithographicInkManufacture.ManufactureofOilVarnishes.
RunningandSpecialTreatmentofAmber,Copal,Kauri,Manilla.Additionof
OiltoResin.AdditionofResintoOil.MixedProcesses.SolutioninColdof
previouslyFusedResin.DissolvingResinsinOil,etc.,underpressure.
Filtration.Clarification.Storage.Ageing.Coachmakers'Varnishesand
Japans.OakVarnishes.Japanners'StovingVarnishes.Japanners'GoldSize.
BrunswickBlack.VariousOilVarnishes.OilVarnishStains.Varnishesfor
"Enamels".IndiaRubberVarnishes.VarnishesAnalysis:Processes,Matching.
FaultsinVarnishes:Cause,Prevention.ExperimentsandExercises.
PressOpinions.
"Thereisnoquestionthatthisisausefulbook."Chemistand
Druggist.
"Thedifferentformulwhicharequotedappeartobefarmore
'practical'thansuchasareusuallytobefoundintextbooks:and
assumingthattheoriginalwaspublishedtwoorthreeyearsago,and
wasonlyslightlybehindhandinitsinformation,thepresentvolume
givesafairinsightintothepositionofthevarnishindustry."The
Ironmonger.
LetterfromtheTeacherofaTechnicalClass.
"AsateacherIhaveoftenbeenconsultedastothebestworkon
VarnishManufactureandkindredindustries,andhavebeenatalossin
recommendingareallypracticalone.ItisthereforewithpleasurethatI
cannowtestifyastothemeritsofthebookonthesesubjectsbyA.
LivacheandJ.G.McIntoshrecentlypublishedbyMessrs.Scott,
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Greenwood&Co.Inmyopinionnovarnishmakeroughttobewithout
itmoreover,itisthebesttextbookthatcouldbeputintothehandsof
tradestudentsorbeginners.Ithasalsothemeritsofbeingthoroughly
uptodateandofpossessingaremarkablycomprehensiveindex.Ican
conscientiouslyrecommendittomystudentsandtradefriends."
CHARLESHARRISON,LecturerontheManufactureofPainters'
Oils,ColoursandVarnishes,BoroughPolytechnic,BoroughRoad,
S.E."23rdMay,1899"
[Pga7]
THEMANUFACTUREOFLAKEPIGMENTSFROMARTIFICIAL
COLOURS.ByFRANCISH.JENNISON,F.I.C.,F.C.S.SixteenColoured
Plates,showingSpecimensofEightynineColours,speciallypreparedfromthe
RecipesgivenintheBook.136pp.Demy8vo.1900.Price7s.6d.Indiaand
Colonies,8s.OtherCountries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,Introduction.II.,TheGroupsoftheArtificialColouringMatters.
III.,TheNatureandManipulationofArtificialColours.IV.,Lakeforming
BodiesforAcidColours.V.,LakeformingBodies'BasicColours.VI.,Lake
Bases.VII.,ThePrinciplesofLakeFormation.VIII.,RedLakes.IX.,Orange,
Yellow,Green,Blue,VioletandBlackLakes.X.,TheProductionofInsoluble
AzoColoursintheFormofPigments.XI.,TheGeneralPropertiesofLakes
ProducedfromArtificialColours.XII.,Washing,FilteringandFinishing.XIII.,
MatchingandTestingLakePigments.Index.
PressOpinions.
"Itisevidentlytheresultofprolongedresearch,andcannotbutproveavaluable
consultingworktothoseengagedintheindustry."DerbyMercury.
"Thepracticalportionofthevolumeistheonewhichwillespeciallycommend
itself,asthatisthepartofthesubjectwhichmostreaderswouldbuythebook
for."ChemistandDruggist.
"Thisworkjustissuedisaveryvaluabletreatiseonthemanufactureoflake
pigmentsofthecoaltarseriesprincipally.Theplanadoptedbytheauthorin
writingupthesubjectenablesthemanufacturetobeveryreadilyunderstood....The
generalpropertiesoflakesproducedfromartificialcolours,washing,filteringand
finishing,andmatchingandtestinglakepigmentsarewellandexhaustively
described,sothatnomanufactureroruseroflakepigmentscanwellaffordtobe
withoutthiswork."ChemicalTradeJournal.
"Thisisundoubtedlyabookwhichwilloccupyaveryhighplaceamongsttechnical
works,andwillproveofexceptionalvaluetoallwhomitimmediatelyconcerns.
Wehavenohesitationinrecommendingitasoneofthebestworksofitsclasswe
haveeverread.Mr.Jennisonhassetabouthistaskwithalucidstyle,andwitha
completemasteryofhissubject...Wedonotthinkstudentsofthetechnicalsideof
thepaintandcolourindustrycanpossiblyspend7s.6d.inamoreprofitableway
thanbybuyingthispublication."EasternMorningNews.
THETESTINGANDVALUATIONOFRAWMATERIALSUSEDIN
PAINTANDCOLOURMANUFACTURE.ByM.W.JONES,F.C.S.ABook
fortheLaboratoriesofColourWorks.88pp.Crown8vo.1900.Price5s.Indiaand
Colonies,5s.6d.OtherCountries,6s.strictlynet.
Contents.
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AluminiumCompounds.ChinaClay.IronCompounds.PotassiumCompounds.
SodiumCompounds.AmmoniumHydrate.Acids.ChromiumCompounds.Tin
Compounds.CopperCompounds.LeadCompounds.ZincCompounds.Manganese
Compounds.ArsenicCompounds.AntimonyCompounds.CalciumCompounds.
BariumCompounds.CadmiumCompounds.MercuryCompounds.Ultramarine.
CobaltandCarbonCompounds.OilsIndex.
PressOpinions.
"Thoughthisexcellentlittleworkcanappealonlytoalimitedclass,
thechemistsincolourworks,yetitwillappealtothemverystrongly
indeed,foritwillputthemonthetrackofshort,rapid,andyet
approximately,accuratemethodsoftestingthecomparativevalueof
competingsamplesofrawmaterialusedinpaintandcolour
manufacture."NorthBritishDailyMail.
"Thislittletextbookisintendedtosupplementthelargerandmore
comprehensiveworksonthesubject,anditembodiestheresultofMr.
Jones'experimentsandexperiences,extendingoveralongperiod.It
gives,underseparateheadings,theprincipalingredientsandimpurities
foundintherawmaterials,andisahandyworkofreferencefor
ascertainingwhatisvaluableordetrimentalinthesampleunder
examination."BlackburnTimes.
"Thereisnoattemptatliteraryadornmentnorstrainingafterliterary
effect,butthelessonsareimpartedinsimpleandconciselanguage.
Thisisjustwhatatextbookshouldbe....Thetreatiseiscertainlymost
useful,andbearsinternalevidenceofbeingtheresultsofactualwork
inabusymanufactoryandnotofephemeralcramminginatechnical
school.Thechapterarrangementisgood,theindexsatisfactory,and
thebookisaltogetheronewhichthepracticalchemistshouldkeepas
accessibletohiscruciblesandfilterpaper."ManchesterCourier.
[Pga8]
THECHEMISTRYOFESSENTIALOILSANDARTIFICIALPERFUMES.
ByERNESTJ.PARRY,B.SC.(Lond.),F.I.C.,F.C.S.IllustratedwithTwenty
Engravings.400pp.1899.Demy8vo.Price12s.6d.IndiaandColonies,13s.6d.
OtherCountries,15s.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,TheGeneralPropertiesofEssentialOils.II.,Compounds
occurringinEssentialOils.III.,ThePreparationofEssentialOils.IV.,The
AnalysisofEssentialOils.V.,SystematicStudyoftheEssentialOils.VI.,
TerpenelessOils.VII.,TheChemistryofArtificialPerfumes.Appendix:
TableofConstants.
PressOpinions.
"Therecanbenodoubtthatthepublicationwilltakeahighplaceinthe
listofscientifictextbooks."LondonArgus
"Wecanheartilyrecommendthisvolumetoallinterestedinthesubject
ofessentialoilsfromthescientificorthecommercial
standpoint."BritishandColonialDruggist.
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"Mr.Parryhasdonegoodserviceincarefullycollectingand
marshallingtheresultsofthenumerousresearchespublishedinvarious
partsoftheworld."PharmaceuticalJournal.
"Atvarioustimesmonographshavebeenprintedbyindividual
workers,butitmaysafelybesaidthatMr.Parryisthefirstinthese
latterdaystodealwiththesubjectinanadequatemanner.Hisbookis
wellconceivedandwellwritten....Heisknowntohavesoundpractical
experienceinanalyticalmethods,andhehasapparentlytakenpainsto
makehimselfaufaitwiththecommercialaspectsofthe
subject."ChemistandDruggist.
"Mr.Parry'sreputationasascientistisfullyestablished,andwecan
thereforeacceptanyworkemanatingfromhispenasbeingofthe
greatestpracticalvalue.Wehaveperusedtheworkbeforeuswith
muchcare,andareconvincedthatthecontentswillbefoundmost
serviceableanditspublicationmostopportune....Heavoids
unnecessarydetails,butincludeseverythingthatisessentialto
systematictreatment,whileheattemptsnomore'thantogivean
outlineoftheprinciplesinvolved'....WecongratulateMr.Parryonthe
scientificvalueofhiswork,andhopethatiftheprogressofthe
coloniesinthemanufactureofessentialoilsandperfumesequalswhat
wearejustifiedinexpecting,itwillbecomeanAustralianhandbook,
everywhereappreciated."TheAustralianBrewers'Journal.
DRYINGOILS,BOILEDOILANDSOLIDANDLIQUIDDRIERS.ByL.E.
ANDS.APracticalWorkforManufacturersofOils,Varnishes,PrintingInks,
OilclothandLinoleum,Oilcakes,Paints,etc.ExpresslyWrittenforthisSeriesof
SpecialTechnicalBooks,andthePublishersholdtheCopyrightforEnglishand
ForeignEditions.FortytwoIllustrations.360pp.1901.Demy8vo.Price12s.6d.
IndiaandColonies,13s.6d.OtherCountries,15s.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,GeneralChemicalandPhysicalPropertiesoftheDryingOilsCauseof
theDryingPropertyAbsorptionofOxygen:BehaviourtowardsMetallicOxides,
etc.II.,ThePropertiesofandMethodsforobtainingtheDryingOils.III.,
ProductionoftheDryingOilsbyExpressionandExtraction:Refiningand
BleachingOilCakesandMeal:TheRefiningandBleachingoftheDryingOils
TheBleachingofLinseedOil.IV.,TheManufactureorBoiledOilThe
PreparationofDryingOilsforUseintheGrindingofPaintsandArtists'Colours
andintheManufactureofVarnishesbyHeatingoveraFireorbySteam,bythe
ColdProcess,bytheActionofAir,andbyMeansoftheElectricCurrentThe
DriersusedinBoilingLinseedOilTheManufactureofBoiledOilandthe
ApparatusthereforLivache'sProcessforPreparingaGoodDryingOilandits
PracticalApplication.V.,ThePreparationofVarnishesforLetterpress,
LithographicandCopperplatePrinting,forOilclothandWaterproofFabrics:The
ManufactureofThickenedLinseedOil,BurntOil,StandOilbyFireHeat,
SuperheatedSteam,andbyaCurrentofAir.VI.,BehaviouroftheDryingOils
andBoiledOilstowardsAtmosphericInfluences,Water,AcidsandAlkalies.
VII.,BoiledOilSubstitutes.VIII.,TheManufactureofSolidandLiquidDriers
fromLinseedOilandRosinLinolicAcidCompoundsoftheDriers.IX.,The
AdulterationandExaminationoftheDryingOilsandBoiledOil.
REISSUEOFCHEMICALESSAYSOFC.W.SCHEELE.FirstPublishedin
Englishin1786.TranslatedfromtheAcademyofSciencesatStockholm,with
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Additions.300pp.Demy8vo.1901.Price5s.IndiaandColonies,5s.6d.Other
Countries,6s.strictlynet.
Contents.
MemoirC.W.Scheeleandhiswork(writtenforthisedition).ChaptersI.,On
FluorMineralanditsAcid.II.,OnFluorMineral.III.,ChemicalInvestigation
ofFluorAcid,withaViewtotheEarthwhichitYields,byMr.Wiegler.IV.,
AdditionalInformationConcerningFluorMinerals.V.,OnManganese,
Magnesium,orMagnesiaVitrariorum.VI.,OnArsenicanditsAcid.VII.,
RemarksuponSaltsofBenzoinVIII.,OnSilex,ClayandAlum.IX.,Analysis
oftheCalculusVesical.X.,MethodofPreparingMercurius.
[Pga9]
DulcisViaHumida.XI.,CheaperandmoreConvenientMethodofPreparing
PulvisAlgarothi.XII.,ExperimentsuponMolybdaena.XIII.,Experimentson
Plumbago.XIV.,MethodofPreparingaNewGreenColour.XV.,Ofthe
DecompositionofNeutralSaltsbyUnslakedLimeandIron.XVI.,Onthe.
QuantityofPureAirwhichisDailyPresentinourAtmosphere.XVII.,OnMilk
anditsAcid.XVIII.,OntheAcidofSaccharumLactis.XIX.,Onthe
ConstituentPartsofLapisPonderosusorTungsten.XX.,Experimentsand
ObservationsonEther.
GLUEANDGLUETESTING.BySAMUELRIDEAL,D.SC.Lond.,F.I.C.
FourteenEngravings.144pp.Demy8vo.1900.Price10s.6d.IndiaandColonies,
11s.OtherCountries,12s.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,ConstitutionandProperties:DefinitionsandSources,Gelatine,
ChondrinandAlliedBodies,PhysicalandChemicalProperties,Classification,
GradesandCommercialVarieties.II.,RawMaterialsandManufacture:Glue
Stock,Lining,Extraction,WashingandClarifying,FilterPresses,WaterSupply,
UseofAlkalies,ActionofBacteriaandofAntiseptics,VariousProcesses,
Cleansing,Forming,Drying,Crushing,etc.,SecondaryProducts.III.,Usesof
Glue:SelectionandPreparationforUse,Carpentry,Veneering,PaperMaking,
Bookbinding,PrintingRollers,Hectographs,MatchManufacture,Sandpaper,etc.,
SubstitutesforotherMaterials,ArtificialLeatherandCaoutchouc.IV.,Gelatine:
GeneralCharacters,LiquidGelatine,PhotographicUses,Size,Tanno,Chromeand
FormoGelatine,ArtificialSilk,Cements,PneumaticTyres,Culinary,Meat
Extracts,Isinglass,MedicinalandotherUses,Bacteriology.V.,GlueTesting:
ReviewofProcesses,ChemicalExamination,Adulteration,PhysicalTests,
ValuationofRawMaterials.VI.,CommercialAspects.
PressOpinions.
"Thisworkisofthehighesttechnicalcharacter,andgivesnotonlya
fullandpracticalaccountoftherawmaterialsandmanufactureof
glues,gelatinesandsimilarsubstances,butgivesmanyhintsand
informationontheuseofsuchsubstancesinveneering,carpentryand
manyotherpurposes.Manytestsaregivenforglueindifferentstages
oftheprogressofitsmanufacture,andthecommercialvalueofa
commoditysomuchingeneraluseisexemplifiedbystatisticsand
figures.Itiscertainlyavaluabletreatiseuponanarticleforwhichvery
littleliteratureinanyformhaspreviouslybeen
obtainable."CarpenterandBuilder.
"Booksontheartofgluemakingaremorethanusuallyscarce,and
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usersofthatarticle,aswellasthosewhomaybetemptedtoembarkin
theindustry,shouldthereforewelcomethisbookbyDr.Samuel
Rideal,aFellowoftheInstituteofChemistry,andaleadingauthority.
Inthisbookhehascollectedthemoreimportantfactsconnectedwith
themanufactureofglueandalliedproducts,andstatedtheexperience
hehasgainedinexaminingvariouscommercialsamplesduringthe
pasttenyears....Dr.Rideal'sbookmustberegardedasavaluable
contributiontoothertechnicalliterature,whichmanufacturers,
merchantsandusersmaystudywithprofit."BritishTradeJournal.
"Thisvolumeisthelatestadditiontotheexcellentseriesofspecial
technicalworksformanufacturersandprofessionalandcommercial
menissuedbythewellknownpublishersofTheOilandColourman's
Journal.Thevolumeineverywayfullymaintainsthehighstandardof
excellenceofthewholeseries,anddealswiththesubjectofglue
makingandgluetestinginathoroughlyexhaustivemanner.Chapters
aregivenontheconstitutionandproperties,andrawmaterialand
manufacture,andoftheusesofglue,andinthislatterrespectitwill
doubtlessbeinformationtomanyreaderstolearntowhatextentglue
entersintothemanufactureofmanycommercialproductsnot
apparentlyassociatedwithglue.Exhaustivechaptersontheprocesses
andmethodsofgluetesting,andonitscommercialaspects,complete
thisusefulandmostcarefullypreparedvolume."CarriageBuilders'
Journal
.
TECHNOLOGYOFPETROLEUM:OilFieldsoftheWorldTheirHistory,
GeographyandGeologyAnnualProductionandDevelopmentOilwellDrilling
Transport.ByHENRYNEUBERGERandHENRYNOALHAT.Translated
fromtheFrenchbyJ.G.MCINTOSH.550pp.153Illustrations.26Plates.Royal
8vo.1901.Price21s.IndiaandColonies,22s.OtherCountries,23s.6d.strictly
net.
Contents.
PartI.,StudyofthePetroliferousStrataChaptersI.,PetroleumDefinition.
II.,TheGenesisorOriginofPetroleum.III.,TheOilFieldsofGalicia,their
History.IV..PhysicalGeographyandGeologyoftheGalicianOilFields.V..
PracticalNotesonGalicianLandLawEconomicHintsonWorking,etc.VI.,
RoumaniaHistory,Geography,Geology.VII.,PetroleuminRussiaHistory.
VIII.,RussianPetroleum(continued)GeographyandGeologyoftheCaucasian
OilFields.IX..RussianPetroleum(continued).X.,TheSecondaryOilFieldsof
Europe.NorthernGermany,Alsace,Italy,etc.XI.,PetroleuminFrance.XII.,
PetroleuminAsiaTranscaspianandTurkestanTerritoryTurkestanPersia
BritishIndiaandBurmahBritishBurmahorLowerBurmahChinaChinese
ThibetJapan,FormosaandSaghalien.XIII.,PetroleuminOceaniaSumatra.
Java,BorneoIsleofTimorPhilippineIslesNewZealand.XIV.,TheUnited
StatesofAmericaHistory.XV.,PhysicalGeologyandGeographyofthe
UnitedStatesOilFields.XVI.,CanadianandotherNorthAmericanOilFields.
XVII.,EconomicDataofWorkinNorthAmerica.XVIII.,PetroleumintheWest
[Pga10]
IndiesandSouthAmerica.XIX.,PetroleumintheFrenchColonies.
PartII.,Excavations.ChapterXX.,HandExcavationorHandDiggingofOil
Wells.PartIII.,MethodsofBoring.ChaptersXXI.,MethodsofOilwellDrilling
orBoring.XXII.,BoringOilWellswiththeRope.XXIII.,DrillingwithRigid
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RodsandaFreefallFabianSystem.XXIV.,FreefallDrillingbySteamPower.
XXV.,OilwellDrillingbytheCanadianSystem.XXVI.,DrillingOilWellson
theCombinedSystem.XXVII.,ComparisonbetweentheCombinedFauck
SystemandtheCanadian.XXVIII.,TheAmericanSystemofDrillingwiththe
Rope.XXIX.,HydraulicBoringwiththeDrillbyHandandSteamPower.
XXX.,RotaryDrillingofOilWells,Bits,SteelcrownedTools,DiamondTools
HandPowerandSteamPowerHydraulicSandpumping.XXXI.,Improvements
inanddifferentSystemsofDrillingOilWells.
PartIV.,Accidents.ChaptersXXXII.,BoringAccidentsMethodsofpreventing
themMethodsofremedyingthem.XXXIII.,Explosivesandtheuseofthe
"Torpedo"Levigation.XXXIV.,StoringandTransportofPetroleum.XXXV.,
GeneralAdviceProspecting,ManagementandcarryingonofPetroleumBoring
Operations.
PartV.,GeneralData.CustomaryFormul.Memento.PracticalPart.
GeneralDatabearingonPetroleum.GlossaryorTechnicalTermsusedinthe
PetroleumIndustry.CopiousIndex.
ADICTIONARYOFCHEMICALSANDRAWPRODUCTSUSEDINTHE
MANUFACTUREOFPAINTS,COLOURS,VARNISHESANDALLIED
PREPARATIONS.ByGEORGEH.HURST,F.C.S.Demy8vo.380pp.1901.
Price7s.6d.IndiaandColonies,8s.OtherCountries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
ThenamesoftheChemicalsandRawProductsarearrangedinalphabeticalorder,
andthedescriptionofeachvariesinlengthfromhalftoeightpages.Thefollowing
aresomeofthearticlesdescribedandexplained:AcetatesAceticAcid
AcidimetryAlcoholAlumAmmoniaAmberAnimiArsenicBeeswax
BenzolBichromatesofPotashandSodaBleachingPowderBoneBlack
BoricAcidBrunswickGreenCadmiumYellowCarbonatesCarmine
CarnaubaWaxCausticPotashandSodaChromeColoursClayCoalTar
ColoursCopalDammarDryingOilsEmeraldGreenGambogeGlue
GlycerineGumsGypsumIndianRedJapaneseLacquerLacLakes
LampBlackLeadCompoundsLinseedOilMagnesiaManganese
CompoundsMicaNitricAcidOchresOrangeLeadOrr'sWhiteParaffin
PrussianBlueRosinOilSepiaSiennaSmaltsSodiumCarbonate
SublimedWhiteLeadSulphuricAcidTerraVerteTestingPigments
TurpentineUltramarineUmbersVermilionettesWhiteLeadWhiting
ZincCompounds.Appendix:ComparisonofBaumeHydrometerandSpecific
GravityforLiquidsLighterthanWaterHydrometerTableforLiquidsHeavier
thanWaterComparisonofTemperatureDegreesTablesforConvertingFrench
MetricWeightsandMeasuresintoEnglishTableoftheElementsetc.,etc.
CopiousIndex.
PressOpinions.
"Thistreatisewillbewelcomedbythoseinterestedinthisindustry
whohavenotsecuredthefulladvantageofacourseofscientific
training."ChemicalTradeJournal.
"Inconciseandlucidtermsalmosteveryingredientusedinpaintand
colourmanufactureisdescribed,togetherwiththemethodsoftesting
theirintrinsicandchemicalvalue."PontefractExpress.
"Suchabookofreferenceforpaint,colourandvarnishmanufacturers
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haslongbeenneeded,andinMr.Hurstthepublishershavesecureda
compilerwhoisnotonlyawellknownauthorityandexpert,butwho
hasthegiftofcommunicatinghisknowledgeinaconciseandlucid
form."ManchesterCourier.
PUREAIR,OZONEANDWATER.APracticalTreatiseoftheirUtilisationand
ValueinOil,Grease,Soap,Paint,GlueandotherIndustries.ByW.B.COWELL.
TwelveIllustrations.1900.Price5s.IndiaandColonies,5s.6d.:OtherCountries,
6s.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,AtmosphericAirLiftingofLiquids:SuctionProcessPreparingBlown
OilsPreparingSiccativeDryingOils.II.,CompressedAirWhitewash.III.,
LiquidAirRetrocession.IV.,PurificationofWaterWaterHardness.V.,
FleshingsandBones.VI.,OzonisedAirintheBleachingandDeodorisingofFats,
Glues,etc.:BleachingTextileFibres.Appendix:AirandGases:PressureofAirat
VariousTemperaturesFuelTableofCombustiblesSavingofFuelbyHeating
FeedWaterTableofSolubilitiesofScaleMakingMinerals:BritishThermalUnits
TablesVolumeoftheFlowofSteamintotheAtmosphereTemperatureofSteam.
Index.
PressOpinions.
"Thisisavaluableworkinlittlespace....Inarrangementitisa
commendablework,anditsvalueisincreasedbytheindexwhich
bringsthelittlevolumetoaclose."NewcastleDailyJournal.
"Thebookiswrittensolelyformanufacturers,who,withoutdoubt,will
finditexceedinglypracticalanduseful.Thevolumecontainsan
appendixwhereinisgivenagreatmanytables,etc.,which
manufacturersinthetradesreferredtowillfindofinestimablevalue
"BlackburnTimes.
THEMANUFACTUREOFMINERALANDLAKEPIGMENTS.Containing
DirectionsfortheManufactureofallArtificial,ArtistsandPainters'Colours,
Enamel,SootandMetallicPigments.ATextbookforManufacturers,Merchants,
ArtistsandPainters.ByDr.JOSEFBERSCH.TranslatedfromtheSecondRevised
EditionbyARTHURC.WRIGHT,M.A.(Oxon.),B.Sc.(Lond.),formerly
AssistantLecturerandDemonstratorinChemistryattheYorkshireCollege,Leeds.
FortythreeIllustrations.476pp.,demy8vo.1901.Price12s.6d.Indiaand
Colonies.13s.6d.OtherCountries,15s.strictlynet.
[Pga11]
Contents.
ChaptersI.,Introduction.II.,PhysicochemicalBehaviourofPigments.III.,
RawMaterialsEmployedintheManufactureofPigments.IV.,Assistant
Materials.V.,MetallicCompounds.VI.,TheManufactureofMineralPigments.
VII.,TheManufactureofWhiteLead.VIII.,EnamelWhite.IX.,Washing
Apparatus.X.,ZincWhite.XI..YellowMineralPigments.XII.,Chrome
Yellow.XIII.,LeadOxidePigments.XIV.,OtherYellowPigments.XV.,
MosaicGold.XVI.,RedMineralPigments.XVII.,TheManufactureof
Vermilion.XVIII.,AntimonyVermilion.XIX.,FerricOxidePigments.XX.,
OtherRedMineralPigments.XXI.,PurpleofCassius.XXII.,BlueMineral
Pigments.XXIII.,Ultramarine.XXIV.,ManufactureofUltramarine.XXV.,
BlueCopperPigments.XXVI.,BlueCobaltPigments.XXVII.,Smalts.
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XXVIII.,GreenMineralPigments.XXIX.,EmeraldGreen.XXX.,Verdigris.
XXXI.,ChromiumOxide.XXXII.,OtherGreenChromiumPigments.XXXIII.,
GreenCobaltPigments.XXXIV.,GreenManganesePigments.XXXV.,
CompoundedGreenPigments.XXXVI.,VioletMineralPigments.XXXVII..
BrownMineralPigments.XXXVIII.,BrownDecompositionProducts.
XXXIX.,BlackPigments.XL.,ManufactureofSootPigments.XLI.,
ManufactureofLampBlack.XLII.,TheManufactureofSootBlackwithout
Chambers.XLIII.,IndianInk.XLIV.,EnamelColours.XLV.,Metallic
Pigments.XLVI.,BronzePigmentsXLVII.,VegetableBronzePigments.
PIGMENTSOFORGANICORIGIN.ChaptersXLVIII.,Lakes.XLIX.,
YellowLakes.L.,RedLakes.LI.,ManufactureofCarmine.LII.,The
ColouringMatterofLac.LIII.,SafflowerorCarthamineRed.LIV.,Madder
anditsColouringMatters.LV.,MadderLakes.LVI.,Manjit(IndianMadder).
LVII.,LichenColouringMatters.LVIII.,RedWoodLakes.LIX.,The
ColouringMattersofSandalWoodandOtherDyeWoods.LX.,BlueLakes.
LXI.,IndigoCarmine.LXII.,TheColouringMatterofLogWood.LXIII.,
GreenLakes.LXIV.,BrownOrganicPigments.LXV.,SapColours.LXVI.,
WaterColours.LXVII.,Crayons.LXVIII.,ConfectioneryColours.LXIX.,
ThePreparationofPigmentsforPainting.LXX.,TheExaminationofPigments.
LXXI.,ExaminationofLakes.LXXII.,TheTestingofDyeWoods.LXXIII.,
TheDesignofaColourWorks.LXXIV.CommercialNamesofPigments.
Appendix:ConversionofMetrictoEnglishWeightsandMeasures.Centigrade
andFahrenheitThermometerScales.Index.
BONEPRODUCTSANDMANURES:AnAccountofthemostrecent
ImprovementsintheManufactureofFat,Glue,AnimalCharcoal,Size,Gelatine
andManures.ByTHOMASLAMBERT,TechnicalandConsultingChemist.
IllustratedbyTwentyonePlansandDiagrams.162pp.,demy8vo.1901.Price7s.
6d.IndiaandColonies,8s.OtherCountries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,ChemicalCompositionofBonesArrangementofFactoryCrushing
ofBonesTreatmentwithBenzeneBenzeneinCrudeFatAnalysesof
ClarifiedFatsMechanicalCleansingofBonesAnimalCharcoalTarand
AmmoniacalLiquor,CharandGases,fromgoodqualityBonesMethodof
RetortingtheBonesAnalysesofChars"Spent"CharsCoolingofTarand
AmmoniacalVapoursValueofNitrogenforCyanideofPotashBoneOil
MarrowBonesCompositionofMarrowFatPremierJuiceButtons.II.,
PropertiesofGlueGlutinandChondrinSkinGlueLimingofSkins
WashingBoilingofSkinsClarificationofGlueLiquorsAcidSteepingof
BonesWaterSystemofBoilingBonesSteamMethodofTreatingBones
NitrogenintheTreatedBonesGlueBoilingandClarifyingHousePlan
showingArrangementofClarifyingVatsPlanshowingPositionofEvaporators
DescriptionofEvaporatorsSulphurousAcidGeneratorClarificationofLiquors
SectionofDryingHouseSpecificationofaGlueSizeUsesandPreparation
andCompositionofSizeConcentratedSize.III.,PropertiesofGelatine
PreparationofSkinGelatineWashingBleachingBoilingClarification
EvaporationDryingBoneGelatineSelectingBonesCrushingDissolving
BleachingBoilingPropertiesofGlutinandChondrinTestingofGluesand
Gelatines.IV.,TheUsesofGlue,GelatineandSizeinVariousTradesSoluble
andLiquidGluesSteamandWaterproofGlues.V.,ManuresImportationof
FoodStuffsSoilsGerminationPlantLife.VI.,NaturalManuresWater
andNitrogeninFarmyardManureFullAnalysisofFarmyardManureAction
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onCropsWaterCloset.
[Pga12]
SystemSewageManureGreenManures.VII.,ArtificialManuresBones
BoiledandSteamedBonesMineralPhosphatesEnglishCoprolitesFrench
andSpanishPhosphoritesGermanandBelgianPhosphatesBasicSlagGuanos
ProperGuanoPhosphates.VIII.,MineralManuresCommonSaltPotash
SaltsCalcareousManuresPreparedNitrogenousManuresAmmoniacal
CompoundsSodiumNitratePotassiumNitrateOrganicNitrogenousMatters
ShoddyHoofsandHornsLeatherWasteDriedMeatDriedBlood
SuperphosphatesCompositionManufactureSectionofManureShedFirst
andGroundFloorPlansofManureShedQualityofAcidUsedMixings
SpecialManuresPotatoManureDissolvedBonesDissolvedBoneCompound
EnrichedPeruvianGuanoSpecialManureforGardenStuffs,etc.Special
ManureforGrassLandsSpecialTobaccoManuresSugarCaneManure
CompoundingofManuresValuationofManures.IX.,AnalysesofRawand
FinishedProductsCommonRawBonesDegreasedBonesCrudeFat
RefinedFatDegelatinisedBonesAnimalCharcoalBoneSuperphosphates
GuanosDriedAnimalProductsPotashCompoundsSulphateofAmmonia
ExtractioninVacuoDescriptionofaVacuumPanFrenchandBritishGelatines
compared.Index.
PressOpinion.
"Wecanwithconfidencerecommendtheperusalofthebooktoall
personsinterestedinthemanufactureofartificialmanures,andalsoto
thelargenumberoffarmersandotherswhoaredesirousofworking
theirholdingsonthemostuptodatemethods,andobtainingthebest
possibleresults,whichscientificresearchhasplacedwithintheir
reach."WiganObserver.
ANALYSISOFRESINSANDBALSAMS.Demy8vo.340pp.1901.Price7s.
Contents.
PartI.,DefinitionofResinsinGeneralDefinitionofBalsams,andespeciallythe
GumResinsExternalandSuperficialCharacteristicsofResinousBodies
DistinctionbetweenResinousBodiesandFatsandOilsOrigin,Occurrenceand
CollectionofResinousSubstancesClassificationChemicalConstituentsof
ResinousSubstancesResinolsResinotAnnolsBehaviourofResin
ConstituentstowardstheCholesterineReactionsUsesandIdentificationof
ResinsMeltingpointSolventsAcidValueSaponificationValueResin
ValueEsterandEtherValuesAcetylandCorbonylValueMethylValue
ResinAcidSystematicRsumofthePerformanceoftheAcidand
SaponificationValueTests.
PartII.,BalsamsIntroductionDefinitionsCanadaBalsamCopaibaBalsam
AngosturaCopaibaBalsamBahiaCopaibaBalsamCarthagenaCopaiba
BalsamMaracaiboCopaibaBalsamMaturinCopaibaBalsamGurjum
CopaibaBalsamParaCopaibaBalsamSurinamCopaibaBalsamWest
AfricanCopaibaBalsamMeccaBalsamPeruvianBalsamToluBalsam
AcaroidResinAmineAmberAfricanandWestIndianKinoBengalKino
LabdanumMasticPineResinSandarachScammoniumShellacStorax
AdulterationofStyraxLiquidusCrudusPurifiedStoraxStyraxCrudusColatus
TacamahacThapsiaResinTurpentineChiosTurpentineStrassburg
TurpentineTurpethTurpentine.GumResinsAmmoniacumBdellium
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EuphorbiumGalbanumGambogeLactucariumMyrrhOpopanax
SagapenumOlibanumorIncenseAcaroidResinAmberThapsiaResin.
Index.
MANUFACTUREOFPAINT.APracticalHandbookforPaintManufacturers,
MerchantsandPainters.ByJ.CRUICKSHANKSMITH,B.Sc.Demy8vo.1901.
200pp.60Illustrationsand1LargeDiagram.Price7s.6d.IndiaandColonies,8s.
OtherCountries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
PartI.,ChaptersI.,PreparationofRawMaterial.II.,StoringofRawMaterial.
III.,TestingandValuationofRawMaterialPaintPlantandMachinery.
PartII.,ChapterV.,TheGrindingofWhiteLead.VI.,GrindingofWhiteZinc.
VII.,GrindingofotherWhitePigments.VIII.,GrindingofOxidePaints.IX.,
GrindingofStainingColours.X.,GrindingofBlackPaints.XI.,Grindingof
ChemicalColoursYellows.XII.,GrindingofChemicalColoursBlues.
XIII.,GrindingGreens.XIV.,GrindingReds.XV.,GrindingLakes.XVI.,
GrindingColoursinWater.XVII.,GrindingColoursinTurpentine.
PartIII.,ChaptersXVIII.,TheUsesofPaint.XIX.,TestingandMatchingPaints.
XX.,EconomicConsiderations.Index.
THECHEMISTRYOFPIGMENTS.ByERNESTJ.PARRY,B.Sc,F.I.C.,
F.C.S.,andJ.H.COSTE,F.I.C.,F.C.S.[Inthepress.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,IntroductoryCompositionofWhiteLightTheoryofColour,etc.
II.,TheApplicationofPigmentsArtistic,Decorative,ProtectiveMethodsof
ApplyingPigments.III.,WhitePigments.IV.,InorganicColouredPigments.
V.,OrganicPigments.
[Pga13]
NOTESONLEADORES:TheirDistributionandProperties.ByJAS.FAIRIE,
F.G.S.Crown8vo.1901.64pages.Price2s.6d.Abroad,3s.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,DefinitionsPropertiesOccurrence.II.,GalenaJohnstonite
CerussiteCruse(WhiteLead)MiniumRedLead.III.,Pyromorphite
MimeteneHediphaneCrocoiseWulfenite.VanadiniteIV.,Bleiglatte
AnglesiteCaledoniteLinariteLanarkiteLeadhilliteSusannite
ClausthaliteCotunnite.V.,MendipiteMatlockiteCromforditeNagyagite
AltaiteMelanochroiteVaugueliniteScheeletine.VI.,Plattnerite
TilkeroditeRaphanosmiteDeckeniteDescloeziteDufrenaysiteBleinierite
MoffrasiteGeocroniteKilbrecheniteSchulziteBoulangerite
HeteromorphiteMeneghiniteJamesonitePlagioniteZinkenite.VII.,
KobelliteBournoniteSelenkupferbleiNussieritePercyliteWolchite
PolysphracriteMiesite.Index.
THERISKSANDDANGERSOFVARIOUSOCCUPATIONSANDTHEIR
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PREVENTION.ByLEONARDA.PARRY,M.D.,B.S.(Lond.).196pp.,demy
8vo.1900.Price7s.6d.IndiaandColonies,8s.OtherCountries,8s.6d.strictly
net.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,OccupationswhichareAccompaniedbytheGenerationandScattering
ofAbnormalQuantitiesofDust.II.,TradesinwhichthereisDangerofMetallic
Poisoning.III.,CertainChemicalTrades.IV.,SomeMiscellaneous
Occupations.V.,TradesinwhichVariousPoisonousVapoursareInhaled.VI.,
GeneralHygienicConsiderations.Index.
ThisbookcontainsvaluableinformationforthefollowingtradesAeratedWater
Manufacture,AlkaliManufacture,AnilineManufacture,BarometerMaking,Brass
Founders,BromineManufacture,BronzeMoulders,BrushMaking,Builders,
CabinetMakers,CalicoPrinting,ChlorideofLimeManufacture,CoalMiners,
CocoanutFibreMaking,ColourGrinders,CopperMiners,CottonGoods
Manufacture,CottonYarnDyeing,CutleryTrades,DryCleaning,Electricity
Generating,Electroplaters,ExplosivesManufacture,FileMaking,FlintMilling,
FloorClothMakers,Furriers,FustianClothingMaking,GalvanisedIron
Manufacture,GassingProcess,Gilders,GlassMaking,GlassPaperMaking,Glass
PolishingandCutting,GrindingProcesses,GunpowderManufacturing,Gutta
perchaManufacture,HatMakers,HempManufacture,HornGoodsMaking,Horse
hairMaking,HydrochloricAcidManufacture,IndiarubberManufacture,Iodine
Manufacture,IvoryGoodsMaking,Jewellers,JuteManufacture,KnifeGrinders,
KnifeHandleMakers,LaceMakers,Lacquering,LeadMelters,LeadMiners,
LeatherMaking,LinenManufactureLinoleumMaking,LithographicPrintingand
Bronzing,Lithographing,Masons,MatchManufacture,MelaniteMaking,Mirror
Making,NeedleGrinders,NeedleMaking,NitrobenzoleMaking,Nitroglycerine
Making,PaintMakers,PaperMaking,PhilosophicalInstrumentMakers,
Photographers,PiericAcidMaking,PortlandCementMaking,Pottery
Manufacture,Printers,QuicksilverMining,RagPickers,RazorGrinders,RedLead
Making,RopeMaking,SandPaperMaking,SawGrinders,ScissorsGrinders,
ShoddyManufacture,ShotMaking,SilkMaking,SilverMining,Skinners,Slag,
WoodManufacture,SteelMakers,SteelPenMaking,Stereotypers,StoneMasons,
StrawHatMakers,SulphuricAcidManufacture,Sweeps,TableknifeGrinders,
Tanners,Telegraphists,TextileIndustries,TinMiners,Turners,TypeFounders,
UmbrellaMakers,WallPaperMaking,WhiteLeadMaking,WoodWorking,
WoollenManufacture,WoolSorters,ZincOxideManufacture.ZincWorking,etc.,
etc.
PressOpinions.
"Thelanguageusedisquitesimple,andcanbeunderstoodbyany
intelligentpersonengagedinthetradesdealtwith."TheClarion.
"Thisisanappallingbook.Itshowsthatthereisscarcelyatradeor
occupationthathasnotariskoradangerattachedtoit."Local
GovernmentJournal.
"Dr.Parryhasnotonlypointedoutthe'risksanddangersofvarious
occupations':hehassuggestedmeansfortheirprevention.Theworkis
primarilyapracticalone."CollieryManager.
"Thisisamostusefulbookwhichshouldbeinthehandsofall
employersoflabour,foremen,andintelligentworkmen,andisoneof
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greatutilitytosanitaryinspectors,andevenonoccasiontomedical
men."Health.
"Thewriterhassucceededincollectingalargeamountofinformation,
andthoughonecouldwishhehadpresenteditinarathermore
attractivestyle,hehascertainlycondenseditintoaverysmall
space."PhysicianandSurgeon.
"Thelittlebookbeforeusisonewhichwillbefoundexceedingly
usefultomanufacturersandevenfactoryinspectors....Noattemptis
madetoshowhowdiseaseswhenoriginatedaretobecured,but,
actingonthesoundprinciplethatpreventionisbetterthancure,means
arestatedhowtoavoidtheharm."BristolMercury.
"Theauthorhasendeavouredtotreatthequestioninsimpleratherthan
intechnicallanguage,andhehaslucidlycataloguedthemost
dangeroustradesandtheirsymptoms,andineachcasespecifiedthe
bestmethodsofdealingwiththem....Tothoseforwhomthevolumeis
speciallydesigned,Dr.Parry'streatiseshouldbeauseful
handbook."SheffieldIndependent.
"Averyusefulmanualforemployersoflabour,foremen,intelligent
workmen,and,inspiteoftheauthor'smodesty,formedicalmen.We
havethepeculiarrisksanddangersofallthedangeroustradescarefully
describedthemodeofactionofvariouschemicals,etc.,usedin
differentindustriesgiven,withfulldirectionshowtominimise
unavoidablerisks."LeedsMercury.
[Pga14]
"Mostofthetradesinthecountryarealludedto,anduponthosethat
aredangerousthenecessaryattentionisbestowed,andmeansare
recommendedwherebydangermaybepreventedorlessened.The
authorhasevidentlystudiedhissubjectwithcare,andhasmadefull
useoftheexperienceofotherswhohavehadalargerinsightintothe
industriesofthecountry."BritishMedicalJournal.
"Theworkiswellwrittenandprinted,anditsverbiagesuchastobe
comprehensibletotheworkmannolessthantothemaster.Thecareful
andgeneralperusalofaworkofthisnaturecannotbutbeattendedby
beneficialresultsofafarreachingnature,andwethereforeheartily
recommendthebooktoourreaders.MedicalOfficersofHealthand
SanitaryInspectorsespeciallyshouldfindtheworkofgreat
interest."SanitaryRecord.
"Itiswritteninsimplelanguage,anditsinstructionscanbeeasily
followed....Therearesomeemployers,atanyrate,whoaremore
ignorantof,thanindifferentto,theslowmurderoftheirworkpeople,
andifthefactssosuccinctlysetforthinthisbookwerebroughttotheir
notice,andiftheTradeUnionsmadeittheirbusinesstoinsistonthe
observanceofthebetterconditionsDr.Parrydescribed,muchmightbe
donetolessentheworkman'speril."WeeklyTimesandEcho.
PRACTICALXRAYWORK.ByFRANKT.ADDYMAN,
B.Sc.(Lond.),F.I.C.,MemberoftheRoentgenSocietyofLondonRadiographerto
St.George'sHospitalDemonstratorofPhysicsandChemistry,andTeacherof
RadiographyinSt.George'sHospitalMedicalSchool.Demy8vo.12Platesfrom
PhotographsofXRayWork.52Illustrations.200pp.1901.Price10s.6d.India
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andColonies,11s.OtherCountries,12s.strictlynet.
Contents.
PartI.,HistoricalChaptersI.,Introduction.II.,Workleadinguptothe
DiscoveryoftheXRays.III.,TheDiscovery.
PartII.,ApparatusanditsManagementChaptersI.,ElectricalTerms.II.,
SourcesofElectricity.III.,InductionCoils.IV.,ElectrostaticMachines.V.,
Tubes.VI.,AirPumps.VII.,TubeHoldersandStereoscopicApparatus.VIII.,
FluorescentScreens.
PartIII.,PracticalXRayWorkChaptersI.,Installations.II.,Radioscopy.
III.,Radiography.IV.,XRaysinDentistry.V.,XRaysinChemistry.VI.,X
RaysinWar.Index
.
ListofPlates.
FrontispieceCongenitalDislocationofHipJoint.I.,NeedleinFinger.II.,
NeedleinFoot.III.,RevolverBulletinCalfandLeg.IV.,AMethodof
Localisation.V.,StellateFractureofPatellashowingshadowof"Strapping".
VI.,Sarcoma.VII.,Sixweeks'oldInjurytoElbowshowingnewGrowthof
Bone.VIII.,OldFractureofTibiaandFibulabadlyset.IX.,HeartShadow.
X.,FracturedFemurshowingGrainofSplint.XI.,Barrell'sMethodof
Localisation.
DRYINGBYMEANSOFAIRANDSTEAM.Explanations,Formul,and
TablesforUseinPractice.TranslatedfromtheGermanofE.HAUSBRAND.Two
DiagramsandThirteenTables.Demy8vo.1901.72pp.Price5s.Indiaand
Colonies,5s.6d.OtherCountries,6s.strictlynet.
Contents.
Preface.BritishandMetricSystemsComparedCentigradeandFahr.
Thermometers.ChaptersI,Introduction.II.,EstimationoftheMaximum
WeightofSaturatedAqueousVapourwhichcanbecontainedin1kilo.ofAirat
DifferentPressureandTemperatures.III.,CalculationoftheNecessaryWeight
andVolumeofAir,andoftheLeastExpenditureofHeat,perDryingApparatus
withHeatedAir,attheAtmosphericPressure:A,WiththeAssumptionthattheAir
isCompletelySaturatedwithVapourbothbeforeEntryandafterExitfromthe
Apparatus.B,WhentheAtmosphericAirisCompletelySaturatedbeforeentry,
butatitsexitisonly,orSaturated.C,WhentheAtmosphericAirisnot
SaturatedwithMoisturebeforeEnteringtheDryingApparatus.IV.,Drying
Apparatus,inwhich,intheDryingChamber,aPressureisArtificiallyCreated,
HigherorLowerthanthatoftheAtmosphere.V.,DryingbyMeansof
SuperheatedSteam,withoutAir.VI.,HeatingSurface,VelocityoftheAir
Current,DimensionsoftheDryingRoom,SurfaceoftheDryingMaterial,Losses
ofHeat.Index.
[Pga15]
LeatherTrades.
THELEATHERWORKER'SMANUAL.BeingaCompendiumofPractical
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RecipesandWorkingFormulforCurriers,Bootmakers,LeatherDressers,
BlackingManufacturers,Saddlers,FancyLeatherWorkers,andallPersons
engagedintheManipulationofLeather.ByH.C.STANDAGE.165pp.1900.Price
7s.6d.IndiaandColonies,8s.OtherCountries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,Blackings,Polishes,Glosses,Dressings,Renovators,etc.,forBootand
ShoeLeather.II.,HarnessBlackings,Dressings,Greases,Compositions,Soaps,
andBoottopPowdersandLiquids,etc.,etc.III.,LeatherGrinders'Sundries.
IV.,Currier'sSeasonings,BlackingCompounds,Dressings,Finishes,Glosses,etc.
V.,DyesandStainsforLeather.VI.,MiscellaneousInformation.VII.,
ChromeTannage.Index.
PressOpinions.
"Thebookbeingabsolutelyunique,islikelytobeofexceptionalvalue
toallwhomitconcerns,asitmeetsalongfeltwant."Birmingham
Gazette.
"Thisisavaluablecollectionofpracticalreceiptsandworking
formulfortheuseofthoseengagedinthemanipulationofleather.
Wehavenohesitationinrecommendingitasoneofthebestbooksof
itskind,anopinionwhichwillbeendorsedbythosetowhomit
appeals."LiverpoolMercury.
"Wethinkwemayventuretostate,sofarastheopinionoftheleather
tradeundertheSouthernCrossisconcerned,thatitwillbeoneof
approval.Aspracticalmen,havingalongandwideexperienceofthe
leathertradeinAustralia,wearecertainthattherearemanytanners
andcurrierscarryingonbusinessinremotetownshipsofthecolonies
towhomsuchamanualofpracticalrecipeswillbeinvaluable....This
manualisnotamerecollectionofrecipesforthevariouspurposesto
whichtheymaybeapplied,butitisalsorepletewithinstructions
concerningthenatureofthematerialsrecommendedtobeusedin
makinguptherecipes....Wethinkeveryintelligentleathermanshould
availhimselfofthemanual.Itisundoubtedlyavaluablecontribution
tothetechnologyoftheleathertrade."AustralianLeatherJournal
andBootandShoeRecorder.
PRACTICALTREATISEONTHELEATHERINDUSTRY.ByA.M.
VILLON.ATranslationofVillon's"TraitPratiquedelaFabricationdescuirset
duTravaildesPeaux".ByFRANKT.ADDYMAN,B.SC.(Lond.),F.I.C.,F.C.S.
andCorrectedbyanEminentMemberoftheTrade.500pp.,royal8vo.1901.123
Illustrations.Price21s.IndiaandColonies,22s.OtherCountries,23s.6d.strictly
net.
Contents.
PrefaceTranslator'sPrefaceListofIllustrations.
PartI.,MaterialsusedinTanningChapterI.,Skins:I.,SkinanditsStructure
II.,SkinsusedinTanningIII.,VariousSkinsandtheirUsesChapterII.,Tannin
andTanningSubstances:I.,TanninII.,Barks(Oak)III.,BarksotherthanOak
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IV.,TanningWoodsV.,TanninbearingLeavesVI.,ExcrescencesVII.,Tan
bearingFruitsVIII.,TanbearingRootsandBulbsIX.,TanningJuices:X.,
TanningSubstancesusedinVariousCountriesXI.,TanninExtractsXII.,
EstimationofTanninandTanninPrinciples.
PartII.,TanningChapterI.,TheInstallationofaTannary:I.,TanFurnacesII.,
Chimneys,Boilers,etc.III.,SteamEnginesChapterII.,GrindingandTrituration
ofTanningSubstances:I.,CuttingupBark:II.,GrindingBarkIII.,TheGrinding
ofTanWoodsIV.,PowderingFruit,GallsandGrainsV.,NotesontheGrinding
ofBarkChapterIII.,ManufactureofSoleLeather:I.,SoakingII.,Sweatingand
UnhairingIII.,PlumpingandColouringIV.,HandlingV.,TanningVI.,Tanning
Elephants'HidesVII.,DryingVIII.,StrikingorPinningChapterIV.,
ManufactureofDressingLeather:I.,SoakingII.,DepilationIII.,NewProcesses
fortheDepilationofSkinsIV.,TanningV.,CowHidesVI.,HorseHidesVII.,
GoatSkinsManufactureofSplitHidesChapterV.,OnVariousMethodsof
Tanning:I.,MechanicalMethodsII.,PhysicalMethodsIII.,ChemicalMethods
IV.,TanningwithExtractsChapterVI.,QuantityandQuality:I.,QuantityII.,
NetCostIII.,QualityofLeatherChapterVII.,VariousManipulationsofTanned
Leather:I.,SecondTanningII.,GreaseStains:III.,BleachingLeatherIV.,
WaterproofingLeatherV.,WeightingTannedLeatherVI.,Preservationof
LeatherChapterVIII.,TanningVariousSkins.
PartIII.,CurryingChapterI.,WaxedCalf:I.,PreparationII.,ShavingIII.,
StretchingorSlickingIV.,OilingtheGrain:V.,OilingtheFleshSideVI.,
WhiteningandGrainingVII.,WaxingVIII.,FinishingIX.,DryFinishingX.,
FinishinginColourXI.,CostChapterII.,WhiteCalf:I.,FinishinginWhite
ChapterIII.,CowHideforUpperLeathers:I.,BlackCowHideII.,WhiteCow
HideIII.,ColouredCowHide.ChapterIV.,SmoothCowHideChapterV.,
BlackLeatherChapterVI.,MiscellaneousHides:I.,HorseII.,GoatIII.,Waxed
GoatSkin:IV.,MattGoatSkinChapterVII.,RussiaLeather:I.,RussiaLeather
II.,ArtificialRussiaLeather.
[Pga16]
PartIV.,Enamelled,HungaryandChamoyLeather,Morocco,Parchment,
FursandArtificialLeatherChapterI.,EnamelledLeather:I.,Varnish
ManufactureII.,ApplicationoftheEnamelIII.,EnamellinginColourChapter
II.,HungaryLeather:I.,PreliminaryII.,WetWorkorPreparationIII.,Aluming
IV.,DressingorLoftWorkV.,TallowingVI.,HungaryLeatherfromVarious
HidesChapterIII.,Tawing:I.,PreparatoryOperationsII.,DressingIII.,Dyeing
TawedSkinsIV.,RugsChapterIV.,ChamoyLeatherChapterV.,Morocco:I.,
PreliminaryOperationsII.,MoroccoTanningIII.,MordantsusedinMorocco
ManufactureIV.,NaturalColoursusedinMoroccoDyeingV.,ArtificialColours
VI.DifferentMethodsofDyeingVII.,DyeingwithNaturalColoursVIII.,Dyeing
withAnilineColoursIX.,DyeingwithMetallicSaltsX.,LeatherPrintingXI.,
FinishingMoroccoXII.,ShagreenXIII.,BronzedLeatherChapterVI.,Gilding
andSilvering:I.,GildingII.,SilveringIII.,NickelandCobaltChapterVII.,
ParchmentChapterVIII.,FursandFurriery:I.,PreliminaryRemarksII.,
IndigenousFursIII.,ForeignFursfromHotCountriesIV.,ForeignFursfrom
ColdCountriesV.,FursfromBirds'SkinsVI.,PreparationofFursVII.,
DressingVIII.,ColouringIX.,PreparationofBirds'SkinsX.,Preservationof
FursChapterIX.,ArtificialLeather:I.,LeathermadefromScrapsII.,
CompressedLeatherIII.,AmericanClothIV.,PapierMchV.,Linoleum:VI.,
ArtificialLeather.
PartV.,LeatherTestingandtheTheoryofTanningChapterI.,Testingand
AnalysisofLeather:I.,PhysicalTestingofTannedLeather:II.,ChemicalAnalysis
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ChapterII.,TheTheoryofTanningandtheotherOperationsoftheLeatherand
SkinIndustry:I.,TheoryofSoakingII.,TheoryofUnhairingIII.,Theoryof
SwellingIV.,TheoryofHandlingV.,TheoryofTanningVI.,Theoryofthe
ActionofTanninontheSkinVII.,TheoryofHungaryLeatherMakingVIII.,
TheoryofTawingIX.,TheoryofChamoyLeatherMakingX.,TheoryofMineral
Tanning.
PartVI.,UsesofLeatherChapterI.,MachineBelts:I.,ManufactureofBelting
II.,LeatherChainBeltsIII.,VariousBelts,IV.,UseofBeltsChapterII.,Boot
andShoemaking:I.,BootsandShoesII.,LacesChapterIII.,Saddlery:I.,
CompositionofaSaddleII.,ConstructionofaSaddleChapterIV.,Harness:I.,
ThePackSaddleII.,HarnessChapterV.,MilitaryEquipmentChapterVI.,
GloveMakingChapterVII.,CarriageBuildingChapterVIII.,MechanicalUses.
Appendix,TheWorld'sCommerceinLeatherI.,EuropeII.,AmericaIII.,
AsiaIV.,AfricaAustralasiaIndex.
PressOpinions.
"Thebookiswellandlucidlywritten.Thewriterisevidentlya
practicalman,whoalsohastakenthetroubletomakehimself
acquaintedwiththescientificandtechnicalsideofhistrade...French
methodsdifferlargelyfromourown:sometimeswethinkourwaysthe
best,butnotalways.Thepracticalmanmaypickupmanyusefulhints
whichmayhelphimtoimprovehismethods."ShoeManufacturers'
MonthlyJournal.
"Thisbookcannotfailtobeofgreatvaluetoallengagedintheleather
trades...TheBritishmaybelievethattheFrenchcanteachthem
nothingintheworkofleathertanninggenerally,butacomparisonof
themethodsofthetwocountrieswillcertainlyyieldafewwrinkles
whichmayleadtoadvantageousresults.Onlyamanunderstandingthe
scienceandtechniqueofthetradecouldhavewrittenthebook,andit
iswelldone."MidlandFreePress.
"Givesmuchusefulandinterestinginformationconcerningthevarious
processesbywhichtheskinsofanimalsareconvertedintoleather.
WrittenbyaFrenchChemistafterfiveyearsofconstantstudyand
application:itshowsallthatdetailofanalysiswhichweare
accustomedtofindinscientists,andwhichthepracticaltanneristoo
muchinthehabitofignoring,sometimestohisownloss."Leeds
Mercury.
"Norcantherebemuchdoubtthatthisexpectationwillbefully
justifiedbytheresult.Thankstotheconspicuouspainstakingwith
whichMr.Addymanhasdischargedhisduty,andthe123illustrations
bywhichthetextiselucidated,thevolumecanhardlyfailtoprovea
veryvaluablestandardworkofitsclass.Itcanthusbeconfidently
recommendedtoallwhoaremoreorlesspracticallyinterestedinthe
technologyofaveryimportantsubject."LeicesterPost.
"Thisis,ineveryrespect,analtogetheradmirable,practical,clearand
lucidtreatiseonthevariousandnumerousbranchesofthegreatleather
industry,ofwhichitdealsinanexhaustive,highlyintelligent,
workmanlikeandscientificmanner...Itisahandsomeadditionto
everyman'sknowledgeofhistrade,whetherhebealeadingdirectorof
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alargepubliccompany,oranindustriousemployeeintheworks,
wishingtoimprovehisservicesbytheadditionofhisbrainstohis
work."ShoeandLeatherTrader.
"M.Villonwritesasonehavingaveryfullknowledgeofallbranches
ofthesubject,andindayswhenforeigncompetitionhasenforcedon
Englishmanufacturerstheimportanceofnolongerbeingcontentwith
ruleofthumbmethodswhichhavecomedowntothemfromtheir
forefathersitcertainlyshouldbeworththewhileofEnglishtannersto
seewhatlessonstheycanlearnfromFrenchpractice,andFrench
practice,weshouldimagine,couldhardlyhaveabetterexponentthan
theauthorofthislargevolume."WesternDailyPressandBristol
Times.
"AtatimewhenallornearlyallourBritishindustriesaretoagreater
orlessextenthamperedbythepressureofcontinentalandAmerican
competition,anyhintsthatcanbeobtainedastothemethodspursued
bycompetitorsmustnecessarilybeofvalue...Thatitwillbeof
interestandvalue,notmerelytoEnglishtanners,buttothose
associatedwithmanykindredindustrialbranches,goeswithoutsaying
...Asaworkofreferencethevolumewillbeextremelyusefulinthe
trade,andwhereleisureaffordssufficientopportunityacarefulperusal
andstudyofitwouldaffordamplereward."KetteringGuardian.
"Thisisaveryhandsomelygotupandelaborateworkjustissuedby
thiswellknowntechnicalbookpublishingfirm...Whenwesaythat
theworkconsistsofover500largepageswithabout120illustrations,
andalmostinnumerabletables,itwillbeseenatoncethatwecannot
attemptanythinglikeanexhaustiveresumeofitscontents,andevenif
wedidthedetailswouldbeoflittleinteresttoourgeneralreaders,
whilethosewhoareengagedintheleatherindustrywillprobably
obtainthebookforthemselvesatleasttheywoulddowelltodoso....
Altogetherthe'Treatise'hasevidentlybeenverycarefullyprepared,
andbyamanwhothoroughlyknowsthesubject,andhenceitwillbea
veryvaluabletechnicalbookforEnglishfirmsandworkers.'Walsall
Observer.
BooksonPottery,Bricks,Tiles,Glass,etc.
THEMANUALOFPRACTICALPOTTING.RevisedandEnlarged.Third
Edition.200pp.1901.Price17s.6d.IndiaandColonies,18s.6d.OtherCountries,
20s.strictlynet.
Contents.
Introduction.TheRiseandProgressofthePotter'sArt.ChaptersI.,Bodies.
ChinaandPorcelainBodies,ParianBodies,SemiporcelainandVitreousBodies,
MortarBodies,EarthenwaresGraniteandC.C.Bodies,MiscellaneousBodies,
SaggerandCrucibleClays,ColouredBodies,JasperBodies,ColouredBodiesfor
MosaicPainting,EncausticTileBodies,BodyStains,ColouredDips.II.,Glazes.
ChinaGlazes,IronstoneGlazes,EarthenwareGlazes,GlazeswithoutLead,
MiscellaneousGlazes,ColouredGlazes,MajolicaColours.III.,GoldandCold
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Colours.Gold,PurpleofCassius,MaroneandRuby,EnamelColouredBases,
EnamelColourFluxes,EnamelColours,MixedEnamelColours,Antiqueand
VellumEnamelColours,UnderglazeColours,UnderglazeColourFluxes,Mixed
UnderglazeColours,FlowPowders,OilsandVarnishes.IV.,Meansand
Methods.ReclamationofWasteGold,TheUseofCobalt,NotesonEnamel
Colours,LiquidorBrightGold.V.,ClassificationandAnalysis.Classification
ofClayWare,LordPlayfair'sAnalysisofClays,TheMarketsoftheWorld,Time
andScaleofFiring,WeightsofPotter'sMaterial,DecoratedGoodsCount.VI.,
ComparativeLossofWeightofClays.VII.,GroundFelsparCalculations.VIII.,
TheConversionofSlopBodyRecipesintoDryWeight.IX.,TheCostof
PreparedEarthenwareClay.X.,FormsandTables.ArticlesofApprenticeship,
Manufacturer'sGuidetoStocktaking,TableofRelativeValuesofPotter's
Materials,HourlyWagesTable,Workman'sSettlingTable,ComparativeGuidefor
EarthenwareandChinaManufacturersintheuseofSlopFlintandSlopStone,
ForeignTermsappliedtoEarthenwareandChinaGoods,TablefortheConversion
ofMetricalWeightsandMeasuresontheContinentofSouthAmerica.Index.
CERAMICTECHNOLOGY:BeingsomeAspectsofTechnicalScienceas
AppliedtoPotteryManufacture.EditedbyCHARLESF.BINNS.100pp.1897.
Price12s.6d.IndiaandColonies,13s.6d.OtherCountries,15s.strictlynet.
Contents.
Preface.Introduction.ChaptersI.,TheChemistryofPottery.II.,Analysisand
Synthesis.III.,ClaysandtheirComponents.IV.,TheBiscuitOven.V.,
Pyrometry.VI.,GlazesandtheirComposition.VII.,ColoursandColour
making.Index.
RECIPESFORFLINTGLASSMAKING.ByaBritishGlassMasterandMixer.
SixtyRecipes.BeingLeavesfromtheMixingBookofseveralexpertsintheFlint
GlassTrade,containinguptodaterecipesandvaluableinformationastoCrystal,
DemicrystalandColouredGlassinitsmanyvarieties.Itcontainstherecipesfor
cheapmetalsuitedtopressing,blowing,etc.,aswellasthemostcostlycrystaland
ruby.Britishmanufacturershavekeptupthequalityofthisglassfromthearrivals
oftheVenetianstoHungryHill,Stourbridge,uptothepresenttime.Thebookalso
containsremarksastotheresultofthemetalasitleftthepotsbytherespective
metalmixers,takenfromtheirownmemorandaupontheoriginals.1900.Pricefor
UnitedKingdom,10s.6d.Abroad.15s.UnitedStates,84strictlynet.
Contents.
RubyRubyfromCopperFlintforusingwiththeRubyforCoatingAGerman
MetalCornelian,orAlabasterSapphireBlueCrysophisOpalTurquoise
BlueGoldColourDarkGreenGreen(common)GreenforMalachite
BlueforMalachiteBlackforMelachiteBlackCommonCanaryBatch
CanaryWhiteOpaqueGlassSealingwaxRedFlintFlintGlass(Crystal
andDemi)AchromaticGlassPasteGlassWhiteEnamelFirestoneDead
White(formoons)WhiteAgateCanaryCanaryEnamelIndex.
[Pga18]
COLOURINGANDDECORATIONOFCERAMICWARE.ByALEX.
BRONGNIART.WithNotesandAdditionsbyALPHONSESALVETAT.
TranslatedfromtheFrench.200pp.1898.Price7s.6d.IndiaandColonies,8s.
Contents.
ThePastes,BodiesorCeramicArticlesCapableofbeingDecoratedbyVitrifiable
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ColoursTheChemicalPreparationofVitrifiableColoursCompositionand
PreparationofVitrifiableColoursTheOxidesPreparationofOxides
PreparationofChromatesPreparationofotherColoursCompositionand
PreparationofFluxesMuffleColoursRecipesforColoursUseofMetals
LustresPreparationandApplicationofColoursCompositionofColoured
PastesUnderglazeColoursColoursintheGlazeOverglazeColoursPainting
inVitrifiableColoursGildingBurnishingPrintingEnlargingandReducing
GelatinePrintsMuffleKilnsforVitrifiableColoursInfluenceoftheMaterialon
theColourChangesResultingfromtheActionsoftheFireAlterations
ResultingfromtheColoursAlterationsinFiring.
HOWTOANALYSECLAY.PracticalMethodsforPracticalMen.ByHOLDEN
M.ASHBY,ProfessorofOrganicChemistry,HarveyMedicalCollege,U.S.A.
TwentyIllustrations.1898.Price2s.6d.Abroad,3s.strictlynet.
Contents.
ListofApparatusListofAtomicWeightsUseofBalance,andBurette,Sand
Bath,andWaterBathDessicatorDryingOvenFilteringFusion
DeterminationofWater,OrganicMatter,Iron,Calcium,Alkalies,Limestone,
Silica,Alumina,Magnesium,etc.MechanicalAnalysisRationalAnalysis
StandardSolutionsVolumetricAnalysisStandardsforClayAnalysis
Sampling.
ARCHITECTURALPOTTERY.Bricks,Tiles,Pipes,EnamelledTerracottas,
OrdinaryandIncrustedQuarries,StonewareMosaics,FaencesandArchitectural
Stoneware.ByLEONLOUVRE.WithFivePlates.950IllustrationsintheText,
andnumerousestimates.500pp.,royal8vo.1900.TranslatedfromtheFrenchby
K.H.BIRD,M.A.,andW.MOOREBINNS.Price15s.IndiaandColonies,16s.
Contents.
PartI.PlainUndecoratedPottery.ChapterI.,Clays:1,Classification,General
GeologicalRemarks.Classification,Origin,Locality2,GeneralPropertiesand
Composition:PhysicalProperties,Contraction,Analysis,InfluenceofVarious
SubstancesonthePropertiesofClays3,WorkingofClayPitsI.OpenPits:
Extraction,Transport,CostII.UndergroundPitsMiningLaws.ChapterII.,
PreparationoftheClay:Weathering,Mixing,Cleaning,CrushingandPulverising
CrushingCylindersandMills,PoundingMachinesDamping:Damping
MachinesSoaking,Shortening,Pugging:HorseandSteamPugMills,Rolling
CylindersParticularsoftheAboveMachines.ChapterIII.,Bricks:1,
Manufacture(1)HandandMachineMoulding,I.MachinesWorkingby
Compression:onSoftClay,onSemiFirmClay,onFirmClay,onDryClay.II.
ExpressionMachines:withCylindricalPropellers,withScrewPropellersDies
CuttingtablesParticularsoftheAboveMachinesGeneralRemarksonthe
ChoiceofMachinesTypesofInstallationsEstimatesPlenishing,Handand
SteamPresses,Particulars(2)Drying,byExposuretoAir,WithoutShelter,and
UnderShedsDryingroomsinTiers,ClosedDryingrooms,inTunnels,in
GalleriesDetailedEstimatesoftheVariousDryingrooms,ComparisonofPrices
TransportfromtheMachinestotheDryingrooms,Barrows,Trucks,Plainor
withShelves,Lifts(3)FiringI.InClampsII.InIntermittentKilns.A,Open:
a,usingWoodbCoalb,inClampsb,FlameB,Closed:c,DirectFlamec,
Rectangularc,Roundd,ReverberatoryIII.ContinuousKilns:C,withSolid
Fuel:RoundKiln,RectangularKiln,Chimneys(PlansandEstimates)D,With
GasFuel,FillardKiln(PlansandEstimates),SchneiderKiln(PlansandEstimates),
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WatergasKilnHeatProductionoftheKilns2,Dimensions,Shapes,Colours,
Decoration,andQualityofBricksHollowBricks,DimensionsandPricesof
Bricks,VariousShapes,QualitiesVariousHollowBricks,Dimensions,
Resistance,Qualities3,ApplicationsHistoryAsia,Africa,America,Europe:
Greek,Roman,Byzantine,Turkish,Romanesque,Gothic,Renaissance,
ArchitectureArchitectureoftheNineteenthCentury:inGermany,England,
Belgium,Spain,Holland,France,AmericaUseofBricksWalls,Arches,
Pavements,Flues,CornicesFacingwithColouredBricksBalustrades.Chapter
IV.,Tiles:1,History2,Manufacture(1)Moulding,byHand,byMachinery:
PreparationoftheClay,SoftPaste,FirmPaste,HardPastePreparationofthe
Slabs,TransformationintoFlatTiles,intoJointedTilesScrew,Camand
RevolverPressesParticularsofTilepresses(2)DryingPlanchettes,Shelves,
DryingbarrowsandTrucks(3)FiringDividedKilnsInstallationof
MechanicalTileworksEstimates3,Shapes,DimensionsandUsesofthe
PrincipalTypesofTileAncientTiles:Flat,Round,Roman,FlemishModern
TilesWithVerticalInterruptedJoin:Gilardoni's,Martin'sHooked,Boulet's
VillawithVerticalContinuousJoin:Muller's,Alsace,PantileForeignTiles
SpecialTilesRidgeTiles,CopingTiles,BorderTiles,Frontons,Gutters,
[Pga19]
Antefixes,Membron,AngularRoofingAccessories:Chimneypots,Mitrons,
Lanterns,ChimneysQualitiesofTilesBlackTilesStonewareTiles
ParticularsofTiles.ChapterV.,Pipes:I.ConduitPipesManufactureMoulding:
HorizontalMachines,VerticalMachines,WorkedbyHandandSteamParticulars
oftheseMachinesDryingFiringII.ChimneyFluesVentiductsand
"Boisseaux,""Waggons"ParticularsoftheseProducts.ChapterVI.,Quarries:1,
PlainQuarriesofOrdinaryClay2,ofCleanedClayMachines,Cutting,Mixing,
PolishingDryingandFiringApplicationsParticularsofQuarries.Chapter
VII.,Terracotta:HistoryManufactureApplication:Balustrades,Columns,
Pilasters,Capitals,Friezes,Frontons,Medallions,Panels,Rosewindows,Ceilings
Appendix:OfficialMethodsofTestingTerracottas.
PartII.MadeuporDecoratedPottery.ChapterI.,GeneralRemarksonthe
DecorationofPottery:DipsGlazes:Composition,Colouring,Preparation,
HarmonywithPastesSpecialProcessesofDecorationEnamels,Opaque,
Transparent,Colours,Underglaze,OverglazeOtherProcesses:Crackling,
Mottled,Flashing,MetallicIridescence,Lustres.ChapterII.,GlazedandEnamelled
BricksHistory:GlazingEnamellingApplications:OrdinaryEnamelled
Bricks,GlazedStoneware,EnamelledStonewareEnamelledTiles.ChapterIII.,
DecoratedQuarries:I.PavingQuarries1,DecoratedwithDips2,Stoneware:A,
FiredtoStoneware:a,ofSlagBaseApplicationsb,ofMeltingClay
ApplicationsB,PlainorIncrustedStonewarea,ofSpecialClay(StokeonTrent)
ManufactureApplicationb,ofFelsparBaseColouring,Manufacture,
Moulding,Drying,FiringApplications.II.FacingQuarries1,inFaienceA,
ofLimestonePasteB,ofSiliciousPasteC,ofFelsparPasteManufacture,
Firing2,ofGlazedStoneware3,ofPorcelainApplicationsofFacing
Quarries.III.StoveQuarriesPreparationofthePastes,Moulding,Firing,
Enamelling,DecorationApplicationsFaiencesforFireplaces.ChapterIV.,
ArchitecturalDecoratedPottery:1,Faiences2,Stoneware3,Porcelain.
ChapterV.,SanitaryPottery:StonewarePipes:Manufacture,FiringApplications
SinksApplicationsUrinals,SeatsandPansApplicationsDrinking
fountains,Washstands.Index.
ATREATISEONTHECERAMICINDUSTRIES.
ACompleteManualforPottery,TileandBrickWorks.ByEMILEBOURRY,
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IngnieurdesArtsetManufactures.TranslatedfromtheFrenchbyWILTONP.
RIX,ExaminerinPotteryandPorcelaintotheCityandGuildsofLondon
TechnicalInstitute,PotteryInstructortotheHanleySchoolBoard.Royal8vo.
1901.Over700pp.Price21s.IndiaandColonies,22s.OtherCountries,23s.6d.
strictlynet.
Contents.
PartI.,GeneralPotteryMethods.ChaptersI.,DefinitionandHistory.Definitions
andClassificationofCeramicProductsHistoricSummaryoftheCeramicArt.
II.,RawMaterialsofBodies.Clays:PureClayandNaturalClaysVariousRaw
Materials:AnalogoustoClayAgglomerativeandAgglutinativeOpening
FusibleRefractoryTrialsofRawMaterials.III.,PlasticBodies.Properties
andCompositionPreparationofRawMaterials:DisaggregationPurification
PreparationofBodies:ByPlasticMethodByDryMethodByLiquidMethod.
IV.,Formation.ProcessesofFormation:ThrowingExpressionMouldingby
Hand,ontheJolley,byCompression,bySlipCastingSlappingSlipping.V.,
Drying.DryingofBodiesProcessesofDrying:ByEvaporationByAeration
ByHeatingByVentilationByAbsorption.VI.,Glazes.Compositionand
PropertiesRawMaterialsManufactureandApplication.VII.,Firing.
PropertiesoftheBodiesandGlazesduringFiringDescriptionoftheKilns
WorkingoftheKilns.VIII.,Decoration.ColouringMaterialsProcessesof
Decoration.
PartII.,SpecialPotteryMethods.ChaptersIX.,TerraCottas.Classification:Plain
Ordinary,Hollow,Ornamental,Vitrified,andLightBricksOrdinaryandBlack
TilesPavingTilesPipesArchitecturalTerraCottasVases,Statuesand
DecorativeObjectsCommonPotteryPotteryforWaterandFiltersTobacco
PipesLustreWarePropertiesandTestsforTerraCottas.X.,FireclayGoods.
Classification:Argillaceous,Aluminous,Carboniferous,SiliciousandBasic
FireclayGoodsFireclayMortar(Pug)TestsforFireclayGoods.XI.Faiences.
VarnishedFaiencesEnamelledFaiencesSiliciousFaiencesPipeclayFaiences
PebbleWorkFeldspathicFaiencesComposition,ProcessesofManufacture
andGeneralArrangementsofFaiencePotteries.XII.,Stoneware.Stoneware
ProperlySocalled:PavingTilesPipesSanitaryWareStonewareforFood
PurposesandChemicalProductionsArchitecturalStonewareVases,Statuesand
otherDecorativeObjectsFineStoneware.XIII.,Porcelain.HardPorcelainfor
TableWareandDecoration,fortheFire,forElectricalConduits,forMechanical
PurposesArchitecturalPorcelain,andDullorBiscuitPorcelainSoftPhosphated
orEnglishPorcelainSoftVitreousPorcelain,FrenchandNewSevres
ArgillaceousSoftorSeger'sPorcelainDullSoftorParianPorcelainDull
FeldspathicSoftPorcelain.Index.
THEARTOFRIVETINGGLASS,CHINAANDEARTHENWARE.ByJ.
HOWARTH.
SecondEdition.1900.Price1s.netbypost,homeorabroad,1s.1d.
Contents.
ToolsandMaterialsRequiredWireUsedforRivetsSolderingSolution
PreparationforDrillingCommencementofDrillingCementingPreliminaries
toRivetingRivetstoMakeToFixtheRivetsThroughandthroughRivets
SolderingTinningaSolderingironPerforatedPlates,Handles,etc.Handles
ofEwers,etc.VasesandComportsMarbleandAlabasterWareDecorating
HowtoLoosenFastDecanterStoppersChinaCements.
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NOTESOFPOTTERYCLAYS.TheirDistribution,Properties,Usesand
AnalysesofBallClays,ChinaClaysandChinaStone.ByJAS.FAIRIE,F.G.S.
1901.132pp.Crown8vo.Price3s.6d.IndiaandColonies,4s.OtherCountries,
4s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
DefinitionsOccurrenceBrickClaysFireClaysAnalysesofFireClays.
BallClaysPropertiesAnalysesOccurrencePipeClayBlackClay
BrownClayBlueClayDorsetshireandDevonshireClays.ChinaClayor
KaolinOccurrenceChineseKaolinCornishClaysHensbarrowGranite
Properties,AnalysesandCompositionofChinaClaysMethodofObtaining
ChinaClayExperimentswithChineseKaolinAnalysesofChineseand
JapaneseClaysandBodiesIrishClays.ChineseStoneComposition
OccurrenceAnalyses.Index.
PAINTINGONGLASSANDPORCELAINANDENAMELPAINTING.A
CompleteIntroductiontothePreparationofalltheColoursandFluxesusedfor
PaintingonPorcelain,Enamel,FaienceandStoneware,theColouredPastesand
ColouredGlasses,togetherwithaMinuteDescriptionoftheFiringofColoursand
Enamels.OntheBasisofPersonalPracticalExperienceoftheConditionoftheArt
uptoDate.ByFELIXHERMANN,TechnicalChemist.WithEighteen
Illustrations.300pp.TranslatedfromtheGermansecondandenlargedEdition.
1897.Price10s.6d.IndiaandColonies,11s.OtherCountries,12s.strictlynet.
Contents.
HistoryofGlassPainting.ChaptersI.,TheArticlestobePainted:Glass,
Porcelain,Enamel,Stoneware,Faience.II.,Pigments:1,MetallicPigments:
AntimonyOxide,NaplesYellow,BariumChromate,LeadChromate,Silver
Chloride,ChromicOxide.III.,Fluxes:Fluxes,Felspar,Quartz,PurifyingQuartz,
Sedimentation,Quenching,Borax,BoracicAcid,PotassiumandSodium
Carbonates,RocailleFlux.IV.,PreparationoftheColoursforGlassPainting.
V.,TheColourPastes.VI.,TheColouredGlasses.VII.,Compositionofthe
PorcelainColours.VIII.,TheEnamelColours:EnamelsforArtisticWork.IX.,
MetallicOrnamentation:PorcelainGilding,GlassGilding.X.,FiringtheColours:
1,RemarksonFiring:FiringColoursonGlass.FiringColoursonPorcelain2,The
Muffle.XI.,AccidentsoccasionallySuperveningduringtheProcessofFiring.
XII.,RemarksontheDifferentMethodsofPaintingonGlass,Porcelain,etc.
Appendix:CleaningOldGlassPaintings.
PressOpinions.
"Mr.Hermann,byacarefuldivisionofhissubject,avoidsmuch
repetition,yetmakessufficientlyclearwhatisnecessarytobeknown
ineachart.Hegivesverymanyformulandhishintsonthevarious
applicationsofmetalsandmetalliclustrestoglassandporcelainswill
befoundofmuchinteresttotheamateur."ArtAmateur,NewYork.
"Fortheunskilledandamateursthenameofthepublisherswillbe
sufficientguaranteefortheutilityandexcellenceofMr.Hermann's
work,eveniftheyarealreadyunacquaintedwiththeauthor....The
wholecannotfailtobebothofserviceandinteresttoglassworkers
andtopottersgenerally,especiallythoseemployeduponhighclass
work."StaffordshireSentinel.
"InPaintingonGlassandPorcelaintheauthorhasdealtvery
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exhaustivelywiththetechnicalasdistinguishedfromtheartisticside
ofhissubject,theworkbeingentirelydevotedtothepreparationofthe
colours,theirapplicationandfiring.Formanufacturersandstudentsit
willbeavaluablework,andtherecipeswhichappearonalmostevery
pageformaveryvaluablefeature.Theauthorhasgainedmuchofhis
experienceinthecelebratedSevresmanufactory,afactwhichaddsa
gooddealofauthoritytothework."BuildersJournal.
"Thecompilerdisplaysthatpainstakingresearchcharacteristicofhis
nation,andgoesatlengthintothequestionofthechemicalconstitution
ofthepigmentsandfluxestobeusedinglasspainting,proceeding
afterwardstoadescriptionofthemethodsofproducingcolouredglass
ofalltintsandshades....Verycarefulinstructionsaregivenforthe
chemicalandmechanicalpreparationofthecoloursusedinglass
stainingandporcelainpaintingindeed,tothechinapaintersucha
bookasthisshouldbeofpermanentvalue,astheauthorclaimstohave
testedandverifiedeveryrecipeheincludes,andthevolumealso
comprisesasectiondevotedtoenamelsbothopaqueandtranslucent,
andanothertreatingofthefiringofporcelain,andtheaccidentsthat
occasionallysuperveneinthefurnace."DailyChronicle.
Areissueof
THEHISTORYOFTHESTAFFORDSHIREPOTTERIESANDTHERISE
ANDPROGRESSOFTHEMANUFACTUREOFPOTTERYAND
PORCELAIN.
WithReferencestoGenuineSpecimens,andNoticesofEminentPotters.By
SIMEONSHAW.(OriginallyPublishedin1829.)265pp.1900.Demy8vo.Price
7s.6d.IndiaandColonies,8s.OtherCountries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
[Pga21]
Contents.
IntroductoryChaptershowingthepositionofthePotteryTradeatthepresent
time(1899).ChaptersI.,PreliminaryRemarks.II.,ThePotteries,comprising
Tunstall,Brownhills,GreenfieldandNewField,GoldenHill,Latebrook,Green
Lane,Burslem,LongportandDaleHall,HotLaneandCobridge,Hanleyand
Shelton,Etruria,Stoke,Penkhull,Fenton,LaneDelph,Foley,LaneEnd.III.,On
theOriginoftheArt,anditsPracticeamongtheearlyNations.IV.,
ManufactureofPottery,priorto1700.V.,TheIntroductionofRedPorcelain
byMessrs.Elers,ofBradwell,1690.VI.,ProgressoftheManufacturefrom
1700toMr.Wedgwood'scommencementin1760.VII.IntroductionofFluid
Glaze.ExtensionoftheManufactureofCreamColour.Mr.Wedgwood's
Queen'sWare.Jasper,andAppointmentofPottertoHerMajesty.Black
Printing.VIII.,IntroductionofPorcelain.Mr.W.Littler'sPorcelain.Mr.
Cookworthy'sDiscoveryofKaolinandPetuntse,andPatent.SoldtoMr.
ChampionresoldtotheNewHallCom.ExtensionofTerm.IX.,BluePrinted
Pottery.Mr.Turner,Mr.Spode(1),Mr.Baddeley,Mr.Spode(2),Messrs.Turner,
Mr.Wood,Mr.Wilson,Mr.Minton.GreatChangeinPatternsofBluePrinted.
X.,IntroductionofLustrePottery.ImprovementsinPotteryandPorcelain
subsequentto1800.
PressOpinions.
"Thereismuchcuriousandusefulinformationinthework,andthe
publishershaverenderedthepublicaserviceinreissuingit."Burton
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Mail.
"Copiesoftheoriginalworkarenowofconsiderablevalue,andthe
facsimilereprintnowissuedcannotbutproveofconsiderableinterest
toallinterestedinthegreatindustry."DerbyMercury.
"Thebookwillbeespeciallywelcomedatatimewheninterestinthe
artofpotterymanufacturecommandsamorewidespreadandgeneral
interestthanatanyprevioustime."WolverhamptonChronicle.
"Thisworkisallthemorevaluablebecauseitgivesoneanideaofthe
conditionofaffairsexistinginthenorthofStaffordshirebeforethe
greatincreaseinworkandpopulationduetomodern
developments."WesternMorningNews.
"TheHistorygivesagraphicpictureofNorthStaffordshireattheend
ofthelastandthebeginningofthepresentcentury,andstatesthatin
1829therewas'abusyandenterprisingcommunity'inthePotteriesof
fiftythousandpersons....Wecommendittoourreadersasamost
entertainingandinstructivepublication,"StaffordshireSentinel.
AReissueof
THECHEMISTRYOFTHESEVERALNATURALANDARTIFICIAL
HETEROGENEOUSCOMPOUNDSUSEDINMANUFACTURING
PORCELAIN,GLASSANDPOTTERY.
BySIMEONSHAW.
(Originallypublishedin1837.)750pp.1900.Royal8vo.Price14s.Indiaand
Contents.
PARTI.,ANALYSISANDMATERIALS.ChaptersI.,Introduction:
LaboratoryandApparatusElements:CombinativePotencies,Manipulative
ProcessesforAnalysisandReagents,Pulverisation,BlowpipeAnalysis,Humid
Analysis,PreparatoryManipulations,GeneralAnalyticProcesses,Compounds
SolubleinWater,CompoundsSolubleonlyinAcids,Compounds(Mixed)Soluble
inWater,Compounds(Mixed)SolubleinAcids,Compounds(Mixed)Insoluble,
ParticularAnalyticProcesses.II.,Temperature:Coal,SteamHeatforPrinters'
Stoves.III.,AcidsandAlkalies:BoracicAcid,MuriaticAcid,NitricAcid,
SulphuricAcid,Potash,Soda,Lithia,CalculationofChemicalSeparations.IV.,
TheEarths:Alumine,Clays,Silica,Flint,Lime,PlasterofParis,Magnesia,
Barytes,Felspar,Grauen(orChinaStone),ChinaClay,Chert.V.,Metals:
ReciprocalCombinativePotenciesoftheMetals,Antimony,Arsenic,Chromium,
GreenOxide,Cobalt,ChromicAcid,HumidSeparationofNickelfromCobalt,
ArseniteofCobalt,Copper,Gold,Iron,Lead,Manganese,Platinum,Silver,Tin,
Zinc.
PARTII.,SYNTHESISANDCOMPOUNDS.ChaptersI.,SketchoftheOrigin
andProgressoftheArt.II.,ScienceofMixing:ScientificPrinciplesofthe
Manufacture,CombinativePotenciesoftheEarths.III.,Bodies:Porcelain
Hard,PorcelainFrittedBodies,PorcelainRawBodies,PorcelainSoft,Fritted
Bodies,RawBodies,StoneBodies,Ironstone,DryBodies,ChemicalUtensils,
FrittedJasper,FrittedPearl,FrittedDrab,RawChemicalUtensils,RawStone,Raw
Jasper,RawPearl,RawMortar,RawDrab,RawBrown,RawFawn,RawCane,
RawRedPorous,RawEgyptian,Earthenware,Queen'sWare,CreamColour,Blue
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andFancyPrinted,DippedandMocha,Chalky,Rings,Stilts,etc.IV.,Glazes:
PorcelainHardFritted,PorcelainSoftFritted,PorcelainSoftRaw,Cream
ColourPorcelain,BluePrintedPorcelain,FrittedGlazes,AnalysisofFritt,Analysis
ofGlaze,ColouredGlazes,Dips,SmearsandWashes:Glasses:FlintGlass,
ColouredGlasses,ArtificialGarnet,ArtificialEmerald,ArtificialAmethyst,
ArtificialSapphire,ArtificialOpal,PlateGlass,CrownGlass,BroadGlass,Bottle
Glass,PhosphoricGlass,BritishSteelGlass,GlassStainingandPainting,
EngravingonGlass,Dr.Faraday'sExperiments.V.,Colours:ColourMaking,
FluxesorSolvents,ComponentsoftheColours:Reds,etc.,fromGold,Carmineor
RoseColour,Purple,Reds,etc.,fromIron,Blues,Yellows,Greens,Blacks,White,
[Pga22]
SilverforBurnishing,GoldforBurnishing,Printer'sOil,Lustres.
PARTIII.,TABLESOFTHECHARACTERISTICSOFCHEMICAL
SUBSTANCES.PreliminaryRemarks,Oxygen(Tables),Sulphurandits
Compounds,Nitrogenditto,Chlorineditto,Bromineditto,Iodineditto,Fluorine
ditto,Phosphorousditto,Boronditto,Carbonditto,Hydrogenditto,Observations,
AmmoniumanditsCompounds(Tables),Thoriumditto,Zirconiumditto,
Aluminiumditto,Yttriumditto,Glucinumditto,Magnesiumditto,Calciumditto,
Strontiumditto,Bariumditto,Lithiumditto,SodiumanditsCompoundsPotassium
ditto,Observations,SeleniumanditsCompounds(Tables),Arsenicditto,
Chromiumditto,Vanadiumditto,Molybdenumditto,Tungstenditto,Antimony
ditto,Telluriumditto,Tantalumditto,Titaniumditto,Siliciumditto,Osmiumditto,
Goldditto,Iridiumditto,Rhodiumditto,Platinumditto,Palladiumditto,Mercury
ditto,Silverditto,Copperditto,Uraniumditto,BismuthanditsCompounds,Tin
ditto,Leadditto,Ceriumditto,Cobaltditto,Nickelditto,Ironditto,Cadmiumditto,
Zincditto,Manganeseditto,Observations,IsomorphousGroups,Isomericditto,
Metamericditto,Polymericditto,Index.
PressOpinions.
"Thisinterestingvolumehasbeenkeptfromthepencilofthemodern
editorandreprintedinitsentiretybytheenterprisingpublishersofThe
PotteryGazetteandothertradejournals....Thereisanexcellent
historicalsketchoftheoriginandprogressoftheartofpotterywhich
showstheintimateknowledgeofclassicalaswellas(thethen)modern
scientificliteraturepossessedbythelateDr.Shaweventheetymology
ofmanyoftheStaffordshireplacenamesisgiven."GlasgowHerald.
"Thehistoricalsketchoftheoriginandprogressofpotteryisvery
interestingandinstructive.Thescienceofmixingisaproblemofgreat
importance,andthequeryhowthenaturalproducts,aluminaandsilica
canbecompoundedtoformthebestwaresmaybesolvedbytheaidof
chemistryinsteadofbyguesses,aswasformerlythecase.Thisportion
ofthebookmaybemostsuggestivetothemanufacturer,asalsothe
chaptersdevotedtothesubjectofglazes,glassesand
colours."BirminghamPost.
"Messrs.Scott,Greenwood&Co.aredoingtheirbesttoplacebefore
thepotterytradessomereallygoodbooks,likelytoaidthe
Staffordshiremanufacturers,andtheirspiritedenterpriseisworthyof
encouragement,fortheutilityoftechnicalliteraturebearinguponthe
practicalsideofpottinggoeswithoutsaying....Theyaretobe
congratulatedontheirenterpriseinrepublishingit,andwecanonly
hopethattheywillmeetwiththesupporttheydeserve.Itseemstobea
volumethatisworthlookingthroughbybothmanufacturersand
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operativesalike,andalllocalinstitutions,atanyrate,shouldsecure
copies."StaffordshireSentinel.
PaperMaking.
THEDYEINGOFPAPERPULP.APracticalTreatisefortheuseof
Papermakers,Paperstainers.Studentsandothers.ByJULIUSERFURT,Manager
ofaPaperMill.TranslatedintoEnglishandEditedwithAdditionsbyJULIUS
HBNER,F.C.S.,LectureronPapermakingattheManchesterMunicipal
TechnicalSchool.WithIllustrationsand157patternsofpaperdyedinthepulp.
Royal8vo,180pp.1901.Price15s.IndiaandColonies,16s.OtherCountries,
20s.strictlynet.Limitededition.
Contents.
I.,BehaviourofthePaperFibresduringtheProcessofDyeing,Theoryofthe
MordantCotton:FlaxandHempEspartoJuteStrawCellulose:Chemicaland
MechanicalWoodPulpMixedFibres:TheoryofDyeing.II.,ColourFixing
Mediums(Mordants)Alum:AluminiumSulphateAluminiumAcetateTin
Crystals(StannousChloride)Copperas(FerrousSulphate)NitrateofIron(Ferric
Sulphate)PyroligniteofIron(AcetateofIron)ActionofTannicAcidImportance
ofMaterialscontainingTanninTreatmentwithTannicAcidofPaperPulp
intendedfordyeingBlueStone(CopperSulphate):PotassiumBichromate:Sodium
BichromateChalk(CalciumCarbonate)SodaCrystals(SodiumCarbonate):
AntimonyPotassiumTartrate(TartarEmetic).III.,InfluenceoftheQualityof
theWaterUsed.IV.,InorganicColours1.ArtificialMineralColours:Iron
BuffManganeseBronze:ChromeYellow(ChromateofLead):ChromeOrange
(BasicChromateofLead):RedLeadChromeGreen:BluewithYellowPrussiate:
PrussianBlue:MethodforProducingPrussianBluefreefromAcid:Ultramarine
2.NaturalMineralColours(EarthColours):YellowEarthColours:RedEarth
ColoursBrownEarthColoursGreen,GreyandBlackEarthColours:WhiteEarth
Colours:WhiteClay(ChinaClay):WhiteGypsumBaryta:MagnesiumCarbonate:
Talc,Soapstone.V.,OrganicColours1.ColoursofVegetableandAnimal
Origin:(a)Substantive(DirectDyeing)ColouringMatters:AnnattoTurmeric:
Safflower(b)Adjective(IndirectDyeing)ColouringMatters:Redwood
CochinealWeld:PersianBerriesFusticExtractQuercitron:Catechu(Cutch)
LogwoodExtract2.ArtificialOrganic(CoalTar)Colours:AcidColoursBasic
Colours:Substantive(DirectDyeing)ColoursDissolvingoftheCoalTarColours:
AuramineOONaphtholYellowSOQuinolineYellowO:MetanilYellowO:
PaperYellowO:AzoflavineRSO,SOCottonYellowGXXandRXX:Orange
[Pga23]
11O:ChrysoidineAOO,RLOO:VesuvineExtraOOVesuvineBCOOFast.
BrownO,NaphthylamineBrownOWaterBlueINOWaterBlueTBOVictoria
BlueBOOMethyleneBlueMDOONileBlueROONewBlueSOOIndoine
BlueBBOOEosine442NxPhloxineBBNRhodamineBOORhodamine6G
OO:NaphthylamineRedGOFastRedAOCottonScarletOErythrineRRO
ErythrineXOErythrinePOPonceau2ROFastPonceauGOandBOPaper
ScarletPOOSaffraninePPOOMagentaPowderAOOAcetateofMagentaO
OCeriseD10OOMethylVioletBBOOCrystalVioletOOAcidViolet3BN
O,4RODiamondGreenBOONigrosineWLOCoalBlackOOBrilliant
BlackBO.VI.,PracticalApplicationoftheCoalTarColoursaccordingto
theirPropertiesandtheirBehaviourtowardstheDifferentPaperFibres
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CoalTarColours,whichrankforemost,asfarastheirfastnesstolightis
concernedColourCombinationswithwhichcolourlessornearlycolourless
BackwaterisobtainedColourswhichdonotbleedintoWhiteFibres,forBlotting
andCopyingPaperPulpColourswhichproducethebestresultsonMechanical
WoodandonUnbleachedSulphiteWoodDyeingofCotton,JuteandWoolHalf
stuffforMottlingWhiteorLightColouredPapersColourssuitableforCotton
ColoursspeciallysuitableforJuteDyeingColourssuitableforWoolFibres.VII.,
DyedPatternsonVariousPulpMixturesPlacardandWrappingPapersBlack
WrappingandCartridgePapersBlottingPapersMottledandMarbledPapers
madewithColouredLinen,CottonandUnionRags,orwithCotton,Jute,Wooland
SulphiteWoodFibres,dyedspeciallyforthispurposeMottlingwithDarkBlue
LinenMottlingwithDarkBlueLinenandDarkBlueCottonMottlingwithDark
BlueCottonMottlingwithDarkBlueandRedCottonMottlingwithDarkRed
CottonMottlingofBleachedStuff,with3to4percent.ofDyedCottonFibres
MottlingwithDarkBlueUnion(LinenandWoolorCottonWarpwithWoolWeft)
MottlingwithBlueStripedRedUnionMottlingofBleachedStuffwith3to4per
cent.ofDyedWoolFibresMottlingofBleachedStuffwith3to4percent.of
DyedJuteFibresMottlingofBleachedStuffwith3to4percent.ofDyedSulphite
WoodFibres:WallPapersPackingPapers.VIII.,DyeingtoShadeIndex.
PressOpinions.
"Thebookisonethatisofvaluetoeveryoneconnectedwiththe
colouringofpaper."PaperTradeJournal.
"Thegreatfeatureofthevolumeisundoubtedlytheseriesofactual
patternsofdyedpapers,157inalltwelveofwhich,madeinEngland,
havebeenaddedtotheoriginalGermanseries.Detailedformulare
givenforthepreparationofthepulpforeach,andthetintsofthe
samplespracticallyformakey,bymeansofwhichtheaccuracyofthe
student'sorpractitioner'sexperimentscanbetested....Onthewholethe
publicationisoneofdistinctimportancetothetrade,andwillnodoubt
speedilybecomeastandardworkofreferenceamongstpapermakers,
bothinthe'lab.'andtheoffice,aswellasbeinganexcellenttextbook
fortheuseofstudentsintheincreasingnumberoftechnicalinstitutes
inwhichpapermakingistaught."World'sPaperTradeReview.
EnamellingonMetal.
ENAMELSANDENAMELLING.AnIntroductiontothePreparationand
ApplicationofallKindsofEnamelsforTechnicalandArtisticPurposes.For
EnamelMakers,WorkersinGoldandSilver,andManufacturersofObjectsofArt.
ByPAULRANDAU.TranslatedfromtheGerman.WithSixteenIllustrations.180
pp.1900.Price10s.6d.IndiaandColonies,11s.OtherCountries,12s.strictly
net.
Contents.
I.,Introduction.II.,CompositionandPropertiesofGlass.III.,RawMaterials
fortheManufactureofEnamel.IV.,SubstancesAddedtoProduceOpacity.V.,
Fluxes.VI.,Pigments.VII.,DecolorisingAgents.VIII.,TestingtheRaw
MaterialswiththeBlowpipeFlame.IX.,SubsidiaryMaterials.X.,Preparing
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theMaterialsforEnamelMaking.XI.,MixingtheMaterials.XII.,The
PreparationofTechnicalEnamels,TheEnamelMass.XIII.,Appliancesfor
SmeltingtheEnamelMass.XIV.,SmeltingtheCharge.XV.,Compositionof
EnamelMasses.XVI.,CompositionofMassesforGroundEnamels.XVII.,
CompositionofCoverEnamels.XVIII.,PreparingtheArticlesforEnamelling.
XIX.,ApplyingtheEnamel.XX.,FiringtheGroundEnamel.XXI.,Applying
andFiringtheCoverEnamelorGlaze.XXII.,RepairingDefectsinEnamelled
Ware.XXIII.,EnamellingArticlesofSheetMetal.XXIV.,Decorating
EnamelledWare.XXV.,SpecialitiesinEnamelling.XXVI.,Dialplate
Enamelling.XXVII.,EnamelsforArtisticPurposes,RecipesforEnamelsof
VariousColours.Index.
PressOpinions.
"Shouldproveofgreatservicetoallwhoareeitherengagedinor
interestedintheartofenamelling."JewellersandWatchmakers'
TradeAdvertiser.
"ImustinformyouthatthisisthebestbookeverIhavecomeacross
onenamels,anditisworthdoubleitscost."J.MINCHIN,Jr.,Porto,
Portugal,22ndJuly,1900.
"Thisisaveryusefulandthoroughlypracticaltreatise,anddealswith
everybranchoftheenameller'sart.Themanufactureofenamelsof
variouscoloursandthemethodsoftheirapplicationaredescribedin
detail.Besidesthecommonerenamellingprocesses,someofthemore
importantspecialbranchesofthebusiness,suchascloisonneworkare
dealtwith.Theworkiswellgotup,andtheillustrationsofapparatus
arewellexecuted.Thetranslatorisevidentlyamanwellacquainted
bothwiththeGermanlanguageandthesubjectmatterofthe
book."Invention.
"Thisisamostwelcomevolume,andoneforwhichwehavelong
waitedinthiscountry.Foryearswehavebeenteachingdesignapplied
toenamellingaswellastoseveralothercrafts,butwehavenotrisento
thescientificsideofthequestion.Hereisahandbookdealingwiththe
compositionandmakingofenamelsforapplicationtometalsforthe
mostpart,butalsoforotheralliedpurposes.Itiswrittenina
thoroughlypracticalway[TranscribersNote:Textsourceunreadable],
anditsauthorPaulRandauhasmadeitssubjectaveryparticular
study.The[TranscribersNote:Textsourceunreadable]almostall
thingswhichcomefromtheGermanchemicalexpert,isamodelof
goodworkmanship[TranscribersNote:Textsourceunreadable]and
arrangement,andnoonewhoisinsearchofahandbooktoenamelling,
[TranscribersNote:Textsourceunreadable]whetherheisacraftsman
producinghisbeautifultranslucentcoloursongold,silverandcopper,
orthehollowwaremanufacturermakingenamelledsaucepansand
kettles,canwishforamoreusefulpracticalmanual."Birmingham
Gazette.
[Pga24]
THEARTOFENAMELLINGONMETAL.ByW.NORMANBROWN.
TwentyeightIllustrations.Crown8vo.60pp.1900.Price2s.6d.Abroad,3s.
strictlynet.
Contents.
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ChaptersI.,HistoryCloisonnChampsLevTranslucentEnamelSurface
PaintedEnamels.II.,CloisonnChampsLevsTranslucentPainted.III.,
PaintedEnamelApparatusFurnacesandMufflesforFiring.IV.,TheCopper
BaseorPlatePlanishingCloisonsChampLevPlates.V.,Enamels
TriturationWashingCoatingaPlatewithEnamelFiringOrdinaryPlaquesfor
PaintingDesigningSquaringoff.VI.,DesignsforCloisonnDesignsfor
PaintedEnamelsTechnicalProcessesBrushes,etc.,ColoursGrisaille
FullcolouredDesigns.
PressOpinion.
"TheinformationconveyedinTheArtofEnamellingonMetalisas
completeascanbeexpectedinamanualofordinarylength,andis
quiteampleinallrespectstostartstudentsinamostinterestingbranch
ofdecorativeart.Allnecessaryrequisitesarefullydescribedand
illustrated,andtheworkisone,indeed,whichanyonemaypursue
withinterest,forthosewhoareinterestedartisticallyinenamelsarea
numerousbody."HardwareMetalsandMachinery.
BooksonTextileandDyeingSubjects.
THETECHNICALTESTINGOFYARNSANDTEXTILEFABRICS.With
ReferencetoOfficialSpecifications.TranslatedfromtheGermanofDr.J.
HERZFELD.SecondEdition.SixtynineIllustrations.200pp.Demy8vo.1901.
Price10s.6d.IndiaandColonies,11s.OtherCountries,12s.strictlynet.
Contents.
YarnTesting:.III.,DeterminingtheYarnNumber.IV.,TestingtheLengthof
Yarns.V.,ExaminationoftheExternalAppearanceofYarn.VI.,Determining
theTwistofYarnandTwist.VII.,DeterminationofTensileStrengthand
Elasticity.VIII.,EstimatingthePercentageofFatinYarn.IX.,Determination
ofMoisture(Conditioning).Appendix.
PressOpinions.
"ItwouldbewellifourEnglishmanufacturerswouldavailthemselves
ofthisimportantadditiontotheextensivelistofGermanpublications
which,bythespreadoftechnicalinformation,contributeinnosmall
degreetothesuccess,andsometimestothesupremacy,ofGermanyin
almosteverybranchoftextilemanufacture."ManchesterCourier.
"ThisisprobablythemostexhaustivebookpublishedinEnglishonthe
subjectdealtwith....Wehavegreatconfidenceinrecommendingthe
purchaseofthisbookbyallmanufacturersoftextilegoodsofwhatever
kind,andareconvincedthattheconciseanddirectwayinwhichitis
written,whichhasbeenadmirablyconservedbythetranslator,renders
itpeculiarlyadaptedfortheuseofEnglishreaders."Textile
Recorder.
"Acarefulstudyofthisbookenablesonetosaywithcertaintythatitis
astandardworkonthesubject.Itsimportanceisenhancedgreatlyby
theprobabilitythatwehavehere,forthefirsttimeinourown
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language,inonevolume,afull,accurate,anddetailedaccount,bya
practicalexpert,ofthebesttechnicalmethodsforthetestingoftextile
materials,whetherintherawstateorinthemoreorlessfinished
product."GlasgowHerald.
"Theauthorhasendeavouredtocollectandarrangeinsystematicform
forthefirsttimeallthedatarelatingtobothphysicalandchemical
testsasusedthroughoutthewholeofthetextileindustry,sothatnot
onlythecommercialandtextilechemist,whohasfrequentlytoreplyto
questionsonthesematters,butalsothepracticalmanufacturerof
textilesandhissubordinates,whetherinspinning,weaving,dyeing,
andfinishing,arecateredfor....Thebookisprofuselyillustrated,and
thesubjectsoftheseillustrationsareclearlydescribed."Textile
Manufacturer.
DECORATIVEANDFANCYTEXTILEFABRICS.
[Pga25]
WithDesignsandIllustrations.ByR.T.LORD.AValuableBookfor
ManufacturersandDesignersofCarpets,Damask,DressandallTextileFabrics.
200pp.1898.Demy8vo.132DesignsandIllustrations.Price7s.6d.Indiaand
Contents.
ChaptersI.,AFewHintsonDesigningOrnamentalTextileFabrics.II.,AFew
HintsonDesigningOrnamentalTextileFabrics(continued).III.,AFewHintson
DesigningOrnamentalTextileFabrics(continued).IV.,AFewHintson
DesigningOrnamentalTextileFabrics(continued).V.,HintsforRuledpaper
Draughtsmen.VI.,TheJacquardMachine.VII.,BrusselsandWiltonCarpets.
VIII.,TapestryCarpets.IX.,IngrainCarpets.X.,AxminsterCarpets.XI.,
DamaskandTapestryFabrics.XII.,ScarfSilksandRibbons.XIII.,Silk
Handkerchiefs.XIV.,DressFabrics.XV.,MantleCloths.XVI.,Figured
Plush.XVII.,BedQuilts.XVIII.,CalicoPrinting.
PressOpinions.
"Thebookcanbestronglyrecommendedtostudentsandpractical
men."TextileColourist.
"Thoseengagedinthedesigningofdress,mantletapestry,carpetand
otherornamentaltextileswillfindthisvolumeausefulworkof
reference."LeedsMercury.
"Thebookistobecommendedasamodelmanual,appearingatan
opportunetime,sinceeverydayismakingknownagrowingdesirefor
developmentinBritishindustrialart."DundeeAdvertiser.
"Designersespecially,whodesiretomakeprogressintheircalling,
willdowelltotakethehintsthrownoutinthefirstfourchapterson
'DesigningOrnamentalTextileFabrics'."NottinghamDaily
Guardian.
POWERLOOMWEAVINGANDYARNNUMBERING,Accordingto
VariousSystems,withConversionTables.AnAuxiliaryandTextbookforPupils
ofWeavingSchools,aswellasforSelfInstructionandforGeneralUsebythose
engagedintheWeavingIndustry.TranslatedfromtheGermanofANTHON
GRUNER.WithTwentysixDiagramsinColours.150pp.1900.Crown8vo.
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Price7s.6d.IndiaandColonies,8s.OtherCountries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
I.,PowerLoomWeavinginGeneral.VariousSystemsofLooms.II.,
MountingandStartingthePowerLoom.EnglishLooms.TappetorTreadle
Looms.Dobbies.III.,GeneralRemarksontheNumbering,Reelingand
PackingofYarn.Appendix.UsefulHints.CalculatingWarps.Weft
Calculations.CalculationsofCostPriceinHanks.
PressOpinions.
"Alongfeltwantintheweavingindustryhasbeensuppliedbythe
issueofacheapvolumedealingwiththesubject."BelfastEvening
Telegraph.
"TheworkhasbeenclearlytranslatedfromtheGermanandpublished
withsuitableillustrations....Theauthorhasdealtverypracticallywith
thesubject."BradfordDailyTelegraph.
"Thebook,whichcontainsanumberofusefulcoloureddiagrams,
shouldproveinvaluabletothestudent,anditshandyformwillenable
ittobecomeacompanionmorethansomecumbrouswork."Cotton
FactoryTimes.
"Thebookhasbeenpreparedwithgreatcare,andismostusefully
illustrated.Itisacapitaltextbookforuseintheweavingschoolsorfor
selfinstruction,whileallengagedintheweavingindustrywillfindits
suggestionshelpful."NorthernDailyTelegraph.
"Thevarioussystemsaretreatedinacarefulmanneralsothedifferent
loomsandtheirmanufacture,aswellasthewholeprocessesofthe
work.Yarnnumberingaccordingtovarioussystems,withconversion
tablesandnumerouscoloureddiagrams,materiallyassisttoaclear
comprehensionofthesubject."NorthernWhig.
"The'inside'managersofourtextilemillsinwhichtheworkis
complexorgreatlyvaried,andwhereyarnsofdifferentmaterialsarein
use,willfindthisworkconvenientforreferenceincaseofnoveltyor
difficulty.Wemayalsosaythesameinrelationtothetextilestudent.
Itsdescriptionofthepartsoftheloomandtheirfunctionswillbeof
usetothelatter,beingofthemostelementarykind."TextileMercury.
"Theauthorattemptstofillagapinweavingliteraturecausedbythe
neglectofmanyobscurepointsconnectedwiththeindustry.Ashort
reviewisgivenofthepowerloomasawhole,followedbya
descriptionofthedifferentpartsofthemachinerywiththeir
advantagesanddefects....Thebookisseverelytechnical,butmuston
thataccountbeveryvaluabletothepupilwhoisdeterminedtomaster
thisindustrialart."CheshireCountyNews.
"Itisclearandconcise,andgivesjustthatknowledgeinqualityand
amountwhichanystudentoftheweavingindustryoughttoconsideras
aminimumnecessaryforhisthoroughcomprehensionofhisfuture
profession.Thehandinessandvarietyoftheinformationcomprisedin
SectionIII.,dealingwiththenumberingandreelingofyarnsemployed
inthevarioussystemsindifferentcountries,struckusasparticularly
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useful."NorthBritishDailyMail.
"Thisworkbringsbeforeweaverswhoareactuallyengagedinthe
variousbranchesoffabrics,aswellasthetechnicalstudent,the
differentpartsofthegeneralrunofpowerloomsinsuchamannerthat
thepartsoftheloomandtheirbearingtoeachothercanbereadily
understood....Theworkshouldproveofmuchvalue,asitisinevery
sensepractical,andisputbeforethereaderinsuchaclearmannerthat
itcanbeeasilyunderstood."TextileIndustries.
[Pga26]
"Thebookundernoticeisintendedasaninstructortothoseengagedin
powerloomweaving,and,judgingbyitscompilation,theauthorisa
thoroughmasterofthecraft.Itisnotoverloadedwithdetails,andhe
managestocompressinabookofsome150pagesallthatonecan
possiblywishtoknowaboutthedifferentpartsofthemachinery,
whetherofEnglishorforeignmake,andforwhateverkindofcloth
required.Acomprehensivesummaryisalsoincludedofthevarious
yarnsandmethodsofnumberingthem,aswellasafewusefulhints
andanumberofcoloureddiagramsformandarinweavings.Thebook
isprintedinbold,legibletype,ongoodpaper,hasacopiousindex,and
iswellandstronglybound."AshtonunderLyneHerald.
"Indealingwiththecomplicatedpartsofvariousclassesofpower
looms,thewriter,whoisoneoftheprofessorsattheRoyalWeaving
SchoolofAsch,bringstotheworkathoroughknowledgeofthe
subject,and,whatisofgreatvalue,hehasthegiftofcommunicating
hisknowledgeinawaywhichiseasilyunderstood.Thesmallest
detailsofloomsettingareenteredinto,andafullexplanationof
problems,whichareasourceofanxietytomanyengagedin
overlooking,isgiven.Studentswillfindtheworkanadmirabletext
book,andallwhoareinterestedinweavingwillseeinitavaluable
additiontotheliteratureonthissubject....Thebookisinsmall
compass,andiscrowdedwithvaluableinformation."Bradford
Observer.
COLOUR:AHANDBOOKOFTHETHEORYOFCOLOUR.ByGEORGE
H.HURST,F.C.S.WithTenColouredPlatesandSeventytwoIllustrations.160
pp.Demy8vo.1900.Price7s.6d.IndiaandColonies,8s.OtherCountries,8s.
6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,ColourandItsProduction.Light,Colour,DispersionofWhiteLight
MethodsofProducingtheSpectrum,GlassPrismandDiffractionGrating
Spectroscopes,TheSpectrum,WaveMotionofLight,RecompositionofWhite
Light,Hue,Luminosity,PurityofColours,ThePolariscope,Phosphorescence,
Fluorescence,Interference.II.,CauseofColourinColouredBodies.
TransmittedColours,AbsorptionSpectraofColouringMatters.III.,Colour
PhenomenaandTheories.MixingColours,WhiteLightfromColouredLights,
EffectofColouredLightonColours,ComplementaryColours,YoungHelmholtz
Theory,BrewsterTheory,SupplementaryColours,Maxwell'sTheory,Colour
Photography.IV.,ThePhysiologyofLight.StructureoftheEye,Persistenceof
Vision,SubjectiveColourPhenomena,ColourBlindness.V.,Contrast.Contrast,
SimultaneousContrast,SuccessiveContrast,ContrastofTone.ContrastofColours,
ModificationofColoursbyContrast,ColourContrastinDecorativeDesign.VI.,
ColourinDecorationandDesign.ColourHarmonies,ColourEquivalents,
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IlluminationandColour,ColourandTextileFabrics,SurfaceStructureandColour.
VII.,MeasurementofColour.ColourPatchMethod,TheTintometer,
Chromometer.
PressOpinions.
"Thisusefullittlebookpossessesconsiderablemerit,andwillbeof
greatutilitytothoseforwhomitisprimarilyintended."Birmingham
Pos.
"Itwillbefoundtobeofdirectservicetothemajorityofdyers,calico
printersandcolourmixers,towhomweconfidentlyrecommend
it."ChemicalTradeJournal.
"Itisthoroughlypractical,andgivesinsimplelanguagethewhyand
whereforeofthemanycolourphenomenawhichperplexthedyerand
thecolourist."DyerandCalicoPrinter.
"Wehavefoundthebookveryinteresting,andcanrecommendittoall
whowishtomasterthedifferentaspectsofcolourtheory,withaview
toapracticalapplicationoftheknowledgesogained."Chemistand
Druggist.
"Mr.Hurst'sHandbookontheTheoryofColourwillbefound
extremelyuseful,notonlytotheartstudent,butalsotothecraftsman,
whosebusinessitistomanipulatepigmentsanddyes."Nottingham
DailyGuardian.
TEXTILERAWMATERIALSANDTHEIRCONVERSIONINTOYARNS.
(TheStudyoftheRawMaterialsandtheTechnologyoftheSpinningProcess.)
TextbookforTextile,TradeandHigherTechnicalSchools.ByJULIUSZIPSER.
TranslatedfromGermanbyCHARLESSALTER.302Illustrations.480pp.Demy
8vo.1901.Price10s.6d.IndiaandColonies,11s.OtherCountries,12s.strictly
net.
Contents.
RawMaterials:CottonWoolFlaxHempJuteHairShearingSheep
GoatWoolSilkDetectionandEstimationofTextileRawMaterialsinYarns
andFabricsTests.TheTechnologyofSpinning.CottonSpinning:Bale
BreakersCardingCombingRovingMuleFramesYarnTesting
Humidifiers.FlaxSpinning:TowSpinningStringSpinningCardedWoollen
YarnBeltCondenserFineSpinningYarnNumbering.Manufactureof
TrueWorstedYarn:SemiWorstedYarns.ArtificialWoolorShoddy
Spinning:SpinningShoddy.Index.
[Pga27]
THECOLOURPRINTINGOFCARPETYARNS.AUsefulManualforColour
ChemistsandTextilePrinters.ByDAVIDPATERSON,F.C.S.Seventeen
Illustrations.132pp.Demy8vo.1900.Price7s.6d.IndiaandColonies,8s.Other
Countries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,StructureandConstitutionofWoolFibre.II.,YarnScouring.III.,
ScouringMaterials.IV.,WaterforScouring.V.,BleachingCarpetYarns.VI.,
ColourMakingforYarnPrinting.VII.,ColourPrintingPastes.VIII.,Colour
RecipesforYarnPrinting.IX.,ScienceofColourMixing.X.,Matchingof
Colours.XI.,"Hank"Printing.XII.,PrintingTapestryCarpetYarns.XIII.,
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YarnPrinting.XIV.,SteamingPrintedYarns.XV.,WashingofSteamedYarns.
XVI.,AnilineColoursSuitableforYarnPrinting.XVII.,GlossaryofDyesand
DyewaresusedinWoodYarnPrinting.Appendix.
PressOpinions.
"Thebookisworthytheattentionofthetrade."WorcesterHerald.
"Thetreatiseisarrangedwithgreatcare,andfollowstheprocesses
describedinamanneratonceclearandconvincing."Glasgow
Record.
"Amostusefulmanualdealinginanintelligibleandinterestingmanner
withthecolourprintingofcarpetyarns."KidderminsterTimes.
"Aneminentexperthimself,theauthorhasevidentlystrainedevery
effortinordertomakehisworkthestandardguideofits
class."LeicesterPost.
"Thebook,whichisadmirablyprintedandillustrated,shouldfulfilthe
needofapracticalguideinthecolourprintingofcarpetyarns.
NottinghamExpress.
"Thesubjectisveryexhaustivelytreatedinallitsbranches....The
work,whichisverywellillustratedwithdesigns,machines,andwool
fibres,willbeausefuladditiontoourtextileliterature."Northern
Whig.
"Itgivesanaccountofitssubjectwhichisbothvaluableand
instructiveinitself,andlikelytobeallthemorewelcomebecause
booksdealingwithtextilefabricsusuallyhavelittleornothingtosay
aboutthiswayofdecoratingthem."Scotsman.
"Theworkshowsathoroughgraspoftheleadingcharacteristicsas
wellastheminutiaeoftheindustry,andgivesaluciddescriptionofits
chiefdepartments....Asatextbookintechnicalschoolswherethis
branchofindustrialeducationistaught,thebookisvaluable,oritmay
beperusedwithpleasureaswellasprofitbyanyonehavinganinterest
intextileindustries."DundeeCourier.
"Thebookbearseverymarkofanextensivepracticalknowledgeofthe
subjectinallitsbearings,andsuppliesarealwantintechnical
literature.ChaptersIX.andX.,onthescienceofcolourmixingand
colourmatchingrespectively,areespeciallygood,andwedonot
remembertohaveseenthebearingofvariouskindsoflight,andofthe
changesfromonekindoflighttoanotherontheworkofthecolourist,
sowelltreatedelsewhere."DyerandCalicoPrinter.
"Itisthoroughlypractical,andcontainsmuchinformationwhichhas
nothithertoappearedinbookform.Itispleasingtonotethatthe
practicalpartisnotcrowdedoutwithpurely'practicalrecipes'.Afew
typicalexamplesaregiven,andtherestislefttothecommonsense
andjudgmentoftheprinterorworks'chemist.Anotherpleasingfeature
istheaccountsgivenhereandthereoftheauthor'sownresearcheson
thesubject.Theworkwillbeofinteresttoprintersofwoolgenerally,
andtothoseengagedinthedyeingofthisfibre."Journalofthe
SocietyofDyersandColourists.
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APRACTICALTREATISEONTHEBLEACHINGOFLINENAND
COTTONYARNANDFABRICS.ByL.TAILFER,ChemicalandMechanical
Engineer.TranslatedfromtheFrenchbyJOHNGEDDESMCINTOSH,Lecturer
onChemicalTechnology,London.Demy8vo.1901.Price12s.6d.Indiaand
Colonies,13s.6dOtherCountries,15s.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChapterI.GeneralConsiderationsonBleaching.ChapterII.Steeping.ChapterIII.
Washing:ItsEndandImportanceRollerWashingMachinesWashWheel
(DashWheel)StocksorWashMillSqueezing.ChapterIV.LyeBoilingLye
BoilingwithMilkofLimeLyeBoilingwithSodaLyesDescriptionofLye
BoilingKeirsOperationsofLyeBoilingConcentrationofLyes.ChapterV.
MatherandPlatt'sKeirDescriptionoftheKeirSaturationoftheFabrics
AlkaliusedinLyeBoilingExamplesofProcesses.ChapterVI.SoapActionof
SoapinBleachingQualityandQuantityofSoapstouseintheLyeSoapLyes
orScaldsSoapScouringStocks.ChapterVII.BleachingonGrassoronthe
BleachingGreenorLawn.ChapterVIII.ChemickingRemarksonChloridesand
theirDecolourisingActionChemickingCisternsChemickingStrengths,etc.
ChapterIX.SoursPropertiesoftheAcidsEffectsProducedbyAcidsSouring
Cisterns.ChapterX.DryingDryingbySteamDryingbyHotAirDryingby
Air.ChapterXI.DamagestoFabricsinBleachingYarnMildewFermentation
IronRustSpotsSpotsfromContactwithWoodSpotsincurredonthe
BleachingGreenDamagesarisingfromtheMachines.ChapterXII.Examplesof
MethodsusedinBleachingLinenCotton.ChapterXIII.TheValuationof
CausticandCarbonatedAlkali(Soda)andGeneralInformationRegardingthese
BodiesObjectofAlkalimetryTitrationofCarbonateofSodaComparative
TableofDifferentDegreesofAlkalimetricalStrengthFiveProblemsrelativeto
CarbonateofSodaCausticSoda,itsPropertiesandUsesMixturesof
CarbonatedandCausticAlkaliNoteonaProcessofManufacturingCausticSoda
andMixturesofCausticandCarbonatedAlkali(soda).ChapterXIV.Chlorometry
[Pga28]
TitrationWagner'sChlorometricMethodPreparationofStandardSolutions
ApparatusforChlorineValuationAlkaliinExcessinDecolourisingChlorides.
ChapterXV.ChlorineandDecolourisingChloridesSynopsisChlorine
ChlorideofLimeHypochloriteofSodaBrochoki'sChlorozoneVarious
DecolourisingHypochloritesComparisonofChlorideofLimeandHypochlorite
ofSoda.ChapterXVI.WaterQualitiesofWaterHardnessDervaux'sPurifier
TestingthePurifiedWaterDifferentPlantforPurificationFilters.Chapter
XVII.BleachingofYarnWeightofYarnLyeBoilingChemickingWashing
BleachingofCottonYarn.ChapterXVIII.TheInstallationofaBleachWorks
WaterSupplySteamBoilersSteamDistributionPipesEnginesKeirs
WashingMachinesStocksWashWheelsChemickingandSouringCisterns
VariousBuildings.ChapterXIX.AddendaEnergyofDecolourisingChlorides
andBleachingbyElectricityandOzoneEnergyofDecolourisingChlorides
ChloridesProductionofChlorineandHypochloritesbyElectrolysisLunge's
ProcessforincreasingtheintensityoftheBleachingPowerofChlorideofLime
Trilfer'sProcessforRemovingtheExcessofLimeorSodafromDecolourising
ChloridesBleachingbyOzone.
THESCIENCEOFCOLOURMIXING.AManualintendedfortheuseof
Dyers,CalicoPrintersandColourChemists.ByDAVIDPATERSON,F.C.S.
FortyoneIllustrations,FiveColouredPlates,andFourPlatesshowingEleven
DyedSpecimensofFabrics.132pp.Demy8vo.1900.Price7s.6d.Indiaand
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Contents.
ChaptersI.,ColouraSensationColoursofIlluminatedBodiesColoursofOpaque
andTransparentBodiesSurfaceColour.II.,AnalysisofLightSpectrum
HomogeneousColoursReadyMethodofObtainingaSpectrum.III.,
ExaminationofSolarSpectrumTheSpectroscopeandItsConstructionColourists'
UseoftheSpectroscope.IV.,ColourbyAbsorptionSolutionsandDyedFabrics
DichroicColouredFabricsinGaslight.V.,ColourPrimariesoftheScientist
versustheDyerandArtistColourMixingbyRotationandLyeDyeing:Hue,
Purity,BrightnessTints:Shades,Scales,Tones,SadandSombreColours.VI.,
ColourMixing:PureandImpureGreens,OrangeandVioletsLargeVarietyof
ShadesfromfewColoursConsiderationofthePracticalPrimaries:Red,Yellow
andBlue.VII.,SecondaryColoursNomenclatureofVioletandPurpleGroup
TintsandShadesofVioletChangesinArtificialLight.VIII.,TertiaryShades
BrokenHuesAbsorptionSpectraofTertiaryShades.Appendix:FourPlateswith
DyedSpecimensIllustratingText.Index.
PressOpinions.
"Theworkhasevidentlybeenpreparedwithgreatcare,and,asfaras
wecanjudge,shouldbeveryusefultothedyerand
colourist."HalifaxCourier.
"Thevolume,whichisclearlyandpopularlywritten,shouldproveof
theutmostservicetoallwhoareconcernedwiththepracticaluseof
colours,whetherasdyersorpainters."Scotsman.
"Tothepracticalcolourist,andalsototechnicalstudents,Mr.
Paterson'snewworkwillbeverywelcome.Weareoftenaskedto
recommendbooksondifferentsubjects,andhavenohesitationin
advisingthepurchaseofthepresentvolumebydyersandcalico
printers,ascontainingamassofmostusefulinformationatanominal
price."IrishTextileJournal.
"Mr.Paterson'sworknotonlyclearlydealswiththetheoryofcolour,
butsuppliesluciddirectionsforthepracticalapplicationofthetheory.
Hisworkwillbefoundexceedinglyhelpful,notonlytothepractical
colourist,butalsotostudentsinourtextilecolleges,byforminga
usefulcomplementtotheirclasslectures.Thereareseveralexquisitely
colouredplatesandalargenumberofotherillustrationsoftheoryand
practiceincolourblending,andalsoaseriesofplateswithspecimens
ofdyedfabricsattached,inexplicationoftheauthor's
views."WakefieldExpress.
"Mr.Patersonhaslittletosayupontheexperimentalaspectoronits
sthetics,butmuchuponthetheoryofcolour,especiallyasitbears
uponthequestionanallimportantonetodyers,calicoprintersand
artists,whohavetoproducesuchavarietyofshadesandtintsofthe
admixtureofonecolouruponanother....Theauthorisadyer,andin
hisconcludingchapterskeepswellbeforehimthespecialwantsand
requirementsofdyers.Hewritespleasantlyandlucidly,andthereisno
difficultyinfollowinghim,althoughhereandtherealapseinto
ambiguousnessoccurs.Thebookiswellprinted,generouslysupplied
withcolouredplates,verynicelyifnotbrightlygotupandthedyed
patternsattheendenhancethevalueofthebooktothedyer."Textile
Mercury.
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"ForsometimetheproprietorsofTheOilandColourman'sJournal
havebeenengagedinthepublicationofaseriesofpracticalhandbooks
intendedfortheuseofthoseinterestedincertainbranchesof
technology,andthepresentvolumeisthelatestadditiontotheirlist.
Thefeaturewhichtheworkshaveincommonanditisanall
importantoneintreatisesofthissortistheireminentlypractical
character.Theprimaryaimofthepublishersistoprovidescientific
textbookswhichwillbehelpfultothosewhoareeitheractively
engagedinthepracticeoftheartsinquestion,orwhoarestudying
withthatimmediateendinview....Mr.Patersonspeakswiththat
assuredknowledgeofanexpert,andinthepresentvolume,asinthat
whichhehasalreadycontributedtothesameseries,hesetsforththe
truefoundationoftheartofcolouringinamanneratonce
comprehensiveandjudicious....Fordyers,calicoprintersand
colouristsingeneral,whosedesireitistoworkwithaccuracyintheir
respectivebranches,thetreatisewillproveaninvaluableguidebook,
providedtheprinciplesandmethodsitdescribesarestudiedwith
intelligenceandcare.Tothisend,everyencouragementhasbeengiven
thatwellchosenexamples,carefullyexecutedplatesanddiagrams,and
anexhaustiveindexcansupply."GlasgowHerald.
[Pga29]
COLOURMATCHINGONTEXTILES.AManualintendedfortheuseof
StudentsofColourChemistry,DyeingandTextilePrinting.ByDAVID
PATERSON,F.C.S.ColouredFrontispiece.TwentynineIllustrationsandFourteen
SpecimensofDyedFabricsIllustratingText.Demy8vo.132pp.1901.Price7s.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,ColourVisionandStructureoftheEyePerceptionofColour
PrimaryandComplementaryColourSensations.II.,DaylightforColour
MatchingSelectionofaGoodPureLightDiffusedDaylight,DirectSunlight,
BlueSkylight,VariabilityofDaylight,etc.,etc.III.,MatchingofHuesPurity
andLuminosityofColoursMatchingBrightHuesAidofTintedFilms
MatchingDifficultiesArisingfromContrast.IV.,ExaminationofColoursby
ReflectedandTransmittedLightsEffectofLustreandTransparencyofFibresin
ColourMatching.V.,MatchingofColoursonVelvetPileOpticalPropertiesof
Dyestuffs,Dichroism.Fluorescence.VI.,UseofTintedMediumsOrangeFilm
DefectsoftheEyeYellowingoftheLensColourBlindness,etc.VII.,
MatchingofDyedSilkTrimmingsandLiningsandBindingsItsDifficulties
BehaviourofShadesinArtificialLightColourMatchingofOldFabrics,etc.
VIII.,ExaminationofDyedColoursundertheArtificialLightsElectricArc,
MagnesiumandDufton,GardnerLights,Welsbach,Acetylene,etc.Testing
QualitiesofanIlluminant.IX.,InfluenceoftheAbsorptionSpectruminChanges
ofHueundertheArtificialLightsStudyoftheCausesofAbnormal
ModificationsofHue,etc.
ReissueofTHEARTOFDYEINGWOOL,SILKANDCOTTON.
TranslatedfromtheFrenchofM.HELLOT,M.MACQUERandM.LEPILEUR
D'APLIGNY.FirstPublishedinEnglishin1789.SixPlates.Demy8vo.446pp.
1901.Price5s.IndiaandColonies,5s.6d.OtherCountries,6s.strictlynet.
Contents.
PartI.,TheArtofDyeingWoolandWoollenCloth,Stuffs,Yarn,Worsted,
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etc.:Introduction.ChaptersI.,OftheVesselsandUtensilsusedinDyeing.II.,
OftheFixedandFugitive,commonlycalledGreatandLittleDye.III.,Of
ColoursinGrain.DyeingWool:IV.,OfBlue.V.,OfthePastelVatDirections
fortheProperManagementoftheVatIndicationswhentheVathasSufferedby
toomuchortoolittleLime,thetwoextremeswhichoughtcarefullytobeavoided
ThePreparationsofIndigoforthePastelVat.VI.,OftheWoadVat.VII.,Of
theIndigoVat.VIII.,OftheColdIndigoVatwithUrineAHotIndigoVatwith
UrineToReheataUrineVat.IX.,AColdIndigoVatwithoutUrine.X.,Of
theMethodofDyeingBlue.XI.,OfRed.XII.,OfScarletinGrain,orVenetian
Scarlet.XIII.,OfFireScarlet.XIV.,OfCrimson.XV.,OfGumLacScarlet.
XVI.,OftheCoccuspolonicus,aColouringInsect.XVII.,OfMadderRed.
XVIII.,OfYellow.XIX.,OfBrownorFawnColour.XX.,OfBlack.XXI.,
OftheColoursobtainedfromaMixtureofBlueandRed.XXII.,OftheMixture
ofBlueandYellow.XXIII.,OftheMixtureofBlueandFawnColour.XXIV.,
OftheMixtureofBlueandBlack.XXV.,OftheMixtureofRedandYellow.
XXVI.,OftheMixtureofRedandFawn.XXVII.,OftheMixtureofRedand
Black.XXVIII.,OftheMixtureofYellowandFawnColours.XXIX.,Ofthe
MixtureofYellowandBlack.XXX.,OftheMixtureofFawnColourandBlack.
XXXI.,OfthePrincipalMixturesofthePrimitiveColoursbyThreeandThree.
XXXII.,TheMethodofBlendingWoolofDifferentColoursformixedClothor
Stuffs.XXXIII.,TheMethodofPreparingFeltsforTrial.XXXIV.,TheMethod
ofDyeingWoollensFalseColours.XXXV.,OfFlockorGoats'Hair.XXXVI.,
OfArchil,andtheMethodofUsingIt.XXXVII.,OfLogwood.XXXVIII.,Of
BrazilWood.XXXIX.,OfFusticXL.,Roucou.XLI.,OfFrenchBerries.
XLII.,OfTurmeric.XLIII.,InstructionsfortheProofLiquorforWooland
WoollenStuffs.
PartII.,TheArtofDyeingSilk:UngummingandBoilingforWhite.ForBoiling
ofSilksIntendedtobeDyed.ObservationsonUngummingandBoiling.Of
White.OfWhitening.Sulphuring.ObservationsonWhiteningand
Sulphuring.OfAluming.RemarksonAluming.OfBlue.Remarksonthe
BlueofIndigo.OfYellow.RemarksonYellow.Aurora,Orange,Mordore,
GoldColourandChamois.RedandCrimson.RemarksonCrimson.OfFalse
CrimsonortheRedofBrazil.RemarksontheRed,orCrimsonofBrazilWood.
OfScarlet,Orange,RedandCherryColour.PreparationoftheCarthamusor
BastardSaffron.RemarksontheDyeofCarthamusorBastardSaffron.Ofthe
FalsePoppyorFireColourProducedwithBrazilWood.FalseRoseColour.Of
Green.Remarks.OfOlives.Remarks.OfViolet.OfFineViolet,or
VioletinGrain.OfFalseorCommonVioletsorLilac.OftheVioletof
Logwood.Remarks.VioletofLogwoodandVerdigris.VioletsofBraziland
Logwood.Remarks.VioletsfromBrazilWoodandArchil.OfPurple,
Gillyflower,andofFineCochinealorPurple.OfFalsePurple.OfMaroons,
CinnamonsandWhiteLees.Remarks.OfNutGreys.ThornGreys,Blackand
IronGreysandothersofthesameSpecies.OfBlack.SofteningofBlack.
BlackintheRaw.RemarksonBlack.ParticularProcessCommunicatedbyM.
Hellot.GenoaCrimson,aProcessProvedinMay,1743.VioletCrimsonof
Italy.HalfViolet.GenoaBlackforVelvets.
PartIII.,TheArtofDyeingCottonandLinenThread,togetherwiththe
MethodofStampingSilks,Cottons,etc.:OfDyeinginGeneral.Inquiry
concerningWool,Silk,CottonandFlax.OfWool.OfSilk.OfCotton.Of
Flax.ConclusionfromtheExaminationofSubstancesCommonlyDyed.Of
Bleaching.PreparationforStuffstobeDyed.Astringents.TheoryofDyeing
StuffsPreparedwithAlum.OfColouringSubstances.OfCochinealand
ColouringInsects.OfMadder.OfVegetablesFurnishingaYellowDye.Of
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theColouringDrugsUsedinDyeingwithoutAstringents.OfIndigo.Of
SubstancesUsedinDyeingFawnandRootColour.OfCarthamus,Roucou,etc.
OfBlack.OfDyeingofCottonThread:OfCleansing.OftheColours
EmployedfortheDyeingofCottonThread.OfBlue.OfRed.Adrianople
Red.ObservationsonthisDye.OfYellow.OfGreen.OfViolet.OfRed
Cinnamon.OfBlack.BlackforLinenandCottonThreadbyaCombinationof
Colours.OfGrey.OfMoreDurableGreys.OfMuskColour.Oliveand
DuckGreens.OfBrowns,Maroons,CoffeeColours,etc.OfSilkStuffsDyedof
SeveralColours.TheMannerofStampingSilk,etc.,inEurope.OfaLinenwith
aBlueGroundandWhitePattern.OfSaxonBlue.ObservationsonthisDye.
Indexes.
THEDYEINGOFCOTTONFABRICS:APracticalHandbookfortheDyerand
Student.ByFRANKLINBEECH,PracticalColouristandChemist.272pp.Forty
fourIllustrationsofBleachingandDyeingMachinery.Demy8vo.1901.Price7s.
6d.IndiaandColonies,8s.:OtherCountries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,StructureandChemistryoftheCottonFibre.II.,Scouringand
BleachingofCotton.III.,DyeingMachineryandDyeingManipulations.IV.,
PrincipalsandPracticeofCottonDyeing1,DirectDyeing2,DirectDyeing
followedbyFixationwithMetallicSalts3,DirectDyeingfollowedbyFixation
withDevelopers4,DirectDyeingfollowedbyFixationwithCouplers5,Dyeing
onTannicMordant6,DyeingonMetallicMordant7,ProductionofColourDirect
uponCottonFibres8,DyeingCottonbyImpregnationwithDyestuffSolution.
V.,DyeingUnion(MixedCottonandWool)Fabrics.VI.,DyeingHalfSilk
(CottonSilk,Satin)Fabrics.VII.,OperationsfollowingDyeingWashing,
Soaping,Drying.VIII.,TestingoftheColourofDyedFabrics.IX.,
ExperimentalDyeingandComparativeDyeTesting.Index.
ThebookcontainsnumerousrecipesfortheproductiononCottonFabricsofall
kindsofagreatrangeofcolours,thusmakingitofgreatserviceintheDyehouse,
whiletotheStudentitisofvalueinthatthescientificprincipleswhichunderliethe
operationsofdyeingareclearlylaiddown.
COTTONSPINNING(FirstYear).ByTHOMASTHORNLEY,SpinningMaster,
BoltonTechnicalSchool.160pp.84Illustrations.Crown8vo.1901.Price3s.
Abroad,3s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
SyllabusandExaminationPapersoftheCityandGuildsofLondonInstitute.
ChaptersI.,Cultivation,Classification,Ginning,BalingandMixingoftheRaw
Cotton.II.,BaleBreakers,MixingLatticesandHopperFeedersIII.,Opening
andScutching.IV.,Carding.IndextoIllustrations.GeneralIndex.
COTTONSPINNING(Intermediate,orSecondYear).ByTHOMAS
THORNLEY.180pp.70Illustrations.Crown8vo.1901.Price5s.Indiaand
BritishColonies,5s.6d.OtherCountries,6s.strictlynet.
Contents.
SyllabusesandExaminationPapersoftheCityandGuildsofLondonInstitute.
ChaptersI.,TheCombingProcess.II.,TheDrawingFrame.III.,Bobbinand
FlyFrames.IV.,MuleSpinning.V.,RingSpinning.IndextoIllustrations.
GeneralIndex.
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COTTONSPINNING(Honours,orThirdYear).ByTHOMASTHORNLEY.216
pp.74Illustrations.Crown8vo.1901.Price5s.IndiaandBritishColonies,5s.6d.
OtherCountries,6s.strictlynet.
Contents.
SyllabusesandExaminationPapersoftheCityandGuildsofLondonInstitute.
ChaptersI.,Cotton.II.,ThePracticalManipulationofCottonSpinning
Machinery.III.,DoublingandWinding.IV.,Reeling.V.,Warping.VI.,
ProductionandCosts.VII.,MainDriving.VIII.,ArrangementofMachinery
andMillPlanning.IX.,WasteandWasteSpinning.IndextoIllustrations.
GeneralIndex.
BooksforMiningEngineersandSteamUsers.
RECOVERYWORKAFTERPITFIRES.ADescriptionofthePrincipal
MethodsPursued,especiallyinFieryMines,andoftheVariousAppliances
Employed,suchasRespiratoryandRescueApparatus,Dams,etc.ByROBERT
LAMPRECHT,MiningEngineerandManager.TranslatedfromtheGerman.
IllustratedbySixlargePlates,containingSeventysixIllustrations.175pp.,demy
8vo.1901.Price10s.6d.IndiaandColonies,11s.OtherCountries,12s.strictly
net.
[Pga31]
Contents.
Preface.I.,CausesofPitFires:1,FiresResultingfromtheSpontaneousIgnition
ofCoal2,FiresCausedbyBurningTimber3,FiresCausedbyFiredamp
Explosions.II.,PreventiveRegulations:1,TheOutbreakandRapidExtension
ofaShaftFirecanbemostreliablypreventedbyEmployinglittleorno
CombustibleMaterialintheConstructionoftheShaft2,PrecautionsforRapidly
LocalisinganOutbreakofFireintheShaft3,PrecautionstobeAdoptedincase
thoseunder1and2FailorProveInefficientPrecautionsagainstSpontaneous
IgnitionofCoal.PrecautionsforPreventingExplosionsofFiredampandCoal
Dust.EmploymentofElectricityinMining,particularlyinFieryPits.Experiments
ontheIgnitionofFiredampMixturesandCloudsofCoalDustbyElectricity.
III.,IndicationsofanExistingorIncipientFire.IV.,Appliancesfor
WorkinginIrrespirableGases:1,RespiratoryApparatus2,ApparatuswithAir
SupplyPipes,(a)TheBremenSmokeHelmet,(b)TheMllerSmokeHelmet,(c)
TheStolzRescueMask3,ReservoirApparatus:4,OxygenApparatus.The
SchwannRespiratoryApparatus.TheFleussRespiratoryApparatus.TheImproved
WalcherGrtnerPneumatophor,(a)TheSingleBottleApparatus,Instructionsfor
usingthePneumatophor,TakingtoPiecesandResettingtheApparatusreadyfor
Use(b)TwoBottleApparatus(ShamrockType).TheNeupertRescueApparatus
(TheMayerPilarSystem).V.ExtinguishingPitFires:(a)ChemicalMeans:(b)
ExtinctionwithWater.DraggingdowntheBurningMassesandPackingwithClay:
(c)InsulatingtheSeatoftheFirebyDams.DamBuilding.DamWorkintheFiery
PitsofSouthernHungary:(a)CrossdamsofClay(b)MasonryDams,Gallery
Linings.Wagner'sPortableSafetyDam.AnalysesofFireGases.IsolatingtheSeat
ofaFirewithDams:WorkinginIrrespirableGases("Gasdiving"):1,AirLock
Work(HorizontalAdvance)ontheMayerSystemasPursuedatKarwinin18942,
AirLockWork(HorizontalAdvance)bytheMauerhoferModifiedSystem.
VerticalAdvance.MayerSystem.CompleteIsolationofthePit.Floodinga
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BurningSectionisolatedbymeansofDams.WoodenDams:(a)UprightBalk
Dams(b)HorizontalBalkDams(c)WedgeDams,MasonryDams.Examplesof
CylindricalandDomeshapedDams.DamDoors:FloodingtheWholePit.VI.,
RescueStations:(a)StationsaboveGround(b)UndergroundRescueStations.
VII.,SpontaneousIgnitionofCoalinBulk.Index.
Illustrations.
SheetI.,RespiratoryandRescueAppliancesPrecautionsagainstFire.Figs.1,
SmokeHelmet2,Muller'sSmokeHelmet3,LowpressureRespirationApparatus
4,HighpressureRespirationApparatus5,TheStolzMaskforRescueWork:6,
PrecautionsagainstFire.SheetII.,RespiratoryandRescueApparatus.Figs.1,
RecoveryWorkwithMller'sSmokeHelmetafteraFire:28,TheFleuss
RespirationApparatus:9,TheWalcherGrtnerPneumatophor:1012,
Pneumatophor(ShamrockType).SheetIII.,RespiratoryandRescueApparatus
Stretchers.Figs.18,RescueApparatusmanufacturedbyO.Neupert's
Successor(MayerPilarSystem)1,FrontView2,SectionthroughBagandMask
3,RearView:4,ApparatusandMasklaidoutFlat(viewfromabove)5,Apparatus
andMasklaidoutFlat(viewfrombelow):6,LockingDeviceforClosingBag7,
ApparatusComplete,MountedforRescueWork8,ImprovedValveinthe
RespirationTubes912,Stretchers.Fig.9,StretcherCoveredwithBrownCanvas:
10,StretcherCoveredwithBrownCanvas,fittedwithAdjustableHeadrest:11,
FoldingStretcherCoveredwithBrownCanvas12,Rupprecht'sStretcherCovered
withBrownCanvas13,Dr.Rhlmann'sStretcher.SheetIV.,Dams.Figs.17,R.
WagnersPortableSafetyDam.SheetV.,SignallingAppliancesDam
ConstructionCableLaying.Figs.13,SignallingAppliances:1,Small
InductionApparatusforPitWork2,BellSignalforPitWork3,PitTelephone4
18,DamConstruction4,5,UprightTimberDam6,7,TimberDamwith
WoodenDoor8,9,DomeshapedDams10,11,DomeshapedDamwithIron
Door12,13,TheWenkerandBerninghausLockingDeviceforDamDoors1417,
DamConstruction:18,DammingaGalleryLinedwithIron:19,SupportforCable.
SheetVI.,WorkingwithDivingGearinIrrespirableGasesGalleryWork.
Figs.14,AirLockWork(MayerSystem)57.AirLock(Mauerhofer's
ModificationoftheMayerSystem)811,ConstructionofDamsatthePlutoShaft.
SheetVII.,WorkingwithDivingGearinIrrespirableGases(MayerSystem)
AppliancesintheShaft.Figs.1,2,SectionsofShaftandAirApparatus3,
SalzmannReducingValveforReserveAirSupply4,5,L.v.Bremen'sRespiration
ApparatuswithKarwinReserveAppliance:6,CrossSectionoftheFranziskaShaft
7,MethodofSupplyingAirtoMainPipeandWindingsameonDrum8,Clamp.
PressOpinions.
"Aworkofthisextremelyvaluablecharacterdeservestobemade
widelyknownamongstcollierymanagersandminingengineersat
homeandabroad."CoalandIron.
"Thisbookis,inamanner,unique.Theliteratureofminingaccidents
isfairlyextensive,butitconsistslargelyofdepartmentalBlue
Books."SheffieldDailyTelegraph.
"Aconciseandluciddescriptionoftheprincipalmethodspursued,
especiallyinfierymines,andofthevariousappliancesemployed,such
asrespiratoryandrescueapparatus,dams,etc."StaffsAdvertiser.
"Thepreventionofspontaneouscombustionincollieriesandthe
extinctionofundergroundfiresaredutiesthatfallheavilyonmany
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collierymanagers.Theyshould,therefore,welcomethistranslationof
Mr.Lamprecht'sGermantreatise."Ironmonger.
"Thebookundernoticesuppliestheneededfulldescription,drawings,
andmodeofusingthesenewappliancesinactualfires,andshouldbe
studiedbyeverycollierymanager,seeingthatevenourbestmanaged
collierieshavenotbeenfreefromfires,moreorlessdisastroustolife
andproperty.CollieryManager.
[Pga32]
THEPREVENTIONOFSMOKE.CombinedwiththeEconomicalCombustion
ofFuel.ByW.C.POPPLEWELL,M.Sc,A.M.Inst.,C.E.,ConsultingEngineer.46
Illustrations.190pp.1901.Demy8vo.Price7s.6d.IndiaandColonies,8s.Other
Countries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
Introductory.ChaptersI.,FuelandCombustion.II.,HandFiringinBoiler
Furnaces.III.,StokingbyMechanicalMeans.IV.,PowderedFuel.V.,
GaseousFuel.VI.,EfficiencyandSmokeTestsofBoilers.VII.,SomeStandard
SmokeTrials.VIII.,TheLegalAspectoftheSmokeQuestion.IX.,TheBest
MeanstobeadoptedforthePreventionofSmoke.Index.
GASANDCOALDUSTFIRING.ACriticalReviewoftheVariousAppliances
PatentedinGermanyforthispurposesince1885.ByALBERTPTSCH.130pp.
Demy8vo.1901.TranslatedfromtheGerman.With103Illustrations.Price7s.6d.
IndiaandColonies,8s.OtherCountries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
GeneratorsGeneratorsEmployingSteamStirringandFeedRegulating
AppliancesDirectGeneratorsBurnersRegeneratorsandRecuperatorsGlass
SmeltingFurnacesMetallurgicalFurnacesPotteryFurnaceCoalDustFiring.
Index.
PressOpinions.
"Theworkisworthyofperusalbyallconsumersoffuel.Itis
exceedinglywellprintedandillustrated."ChemicalTradeJournal.
"Thebookwillappealwithforcetothemanufactureraswellastothe
technicalstudent,whilstitisalsooffarmorethanaverageinterestto
thegeneralreader."HalifaxGuardian.
"Theimportancethatgasandcoaldustfiringhaveattainedofrecent
years,andespeciallythegreatinterestattachingoflatetothequestion
ofcoaldustfiring,makestheappearanceofthepresentvolumemost
opportune."IronandCoalTradesReview.
"TheGermanauthorhaslongfollowedthedevelopmentofvarious
systemsofgasfiring,andinthepresenttreatisehediscussesthemerits
ofappliancespatentedsince1885.Histextandthenumerous
illustrationsindispensabletoitwillbefoundusefulbyallwhoare
engagedinpracticalworkinthesamefield."NorthBritishDaily
Mail.
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BooksonPlumbing,Decorating,MetalWork,etc.,
etc.
EXTERNALPLUMBINGWORK.ATreatiseonLeadWorkforRoofs.By
JOHNW.HART,R.P.C.180Illustrations.270pp.Demy8vo.1896.Price7s.6d.
IndiaandColonies,8s.OtherCountries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.
ChaptersI.,CastSheetLead.II.,MilledSheetLead.III.,RoofCesspools.IV.,
SocketPipes.V.,Drips.VI.,Gutters.VII.,Gutters(continued).VIII.,
Breaks.IX.,CircularBreaks.X.,FlatsXL,Flats(continued).XII.,Rollson
Flats.XIII.,RollEnds.XIV.,RollIntersections.XV.,SeamRolls.XVI.,
SeamRolls(continued).XVII.,TackFixings.XVIII.,StepFlashings.XIX.,
StepFlashings(continued).XX.,SecretGutters.XXI.,Soakers.XXII.,Hip
andValleySoakers.XXIII.,DormerWindows.XXIV.,DormerWindows
(continued).XXV.,DormerTops.XXVI.,InternalDormers.XXVII.,
Skylights.XXVIII.,HipsandRidging.XXIX.,HipsandRidging(continued).
XXX.,FixingsforHipsandRidging.XXXI.,OrnamentalRidging.XXXII.,
OrnamentalCurbRolls.XXXIII.,CurbRolls.XXXIV.,Cornices.XXXV.,
TowersandFinials.XXXVI.,TowersandFinials(continued).
XXXVII.,TowersandFinials(continued).XXXVIII.,Domes.XXXIX.,Domes
(continued).XL.,OrnamentalLeadWork.XLI.,RainWaterHeads.XLII.,
RainWaterHeads(continued).XLIII.,RainWaterHeads(continued).
PressOpinions.
"Thisisaneminentlypracticalandwellillustratedvolumeonthemanagementof
externalleadwork."BirminghamDailyPost.
"Itisthoroughlypractical,containingmanyvaluablehints,andcannotfailtobeof
greatbenefittothosewhohavenothadlargeexperience."SanitaryJournal.
"Worksonsanitaryplumbingarebynomeansrare,buttreatisesdealingwith
externalplumbingworkaresufficientlyscarcetoensureforMr.Hart'snew
publicationaheartyreception."TheIronmonger.
"WithMr.Hartstreatiseinhishandstheyoungplumberneednotbeafraidof
tacklingoutsidework.Hewoulddowelltostudyitspagesatleisure,sothathe
maybereadyforitwhencalledupon."Ironmongery.
[Pga33]
HINTSTOPLUMBERSONJOINTWIPING,PIPEBENDINGANDLEAD
BURNING.ThirdEdition,RevisedandCorrected.ByJOHNW.HART,R.P.C.
184Illustrations.313pp.Demy8vo.1901.Price7s.6d.IndiaandColonies,8s.
Contents.Introduction.ChaptersI.,PipeBending.II.,PipeBending
(continued).III.,PipeBending(continued).IV.,SquarePipeBendings.V.,
HalfcircularElbows.VI.,CurvedBendsonSquarePipe.VII.,BossedBends.
VIII.,CurvedPlinthBends.IX.,RainwaterShoesonSquarePipe.X.,
CurvedandAngleBends.XL,SquarePipeFixings.XII.,Jointwiping.XIII.,
SubstitutesforWipedJoints.XIV.,PreparingWipedJoints.XV.,JointFixings.
XVI.,PlumbingIrons.XVII.,JointFixings.XVIII.,Useof"Touch"in
Soldering.XIX.,UnderhandJoints.XX.,BlownandCopperBitJoints.XXL,
BranchJoints.XXII.,BranchJoints(continued).XXIII.,BlockJoints.XXIV.,
BlockJoints(continued).XXV.,BlockFixings.XXVI.,AstragalJointsPipe
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Fixings.XXVII.,LargeBranchJoints.XXVIII.,LargeUnderhandJoints.
XXIX.,Solders.XXX.,AutogenousSolderingorLeadBurning.Index.
PressOpinions.
"Richinusefuldiagramsaswellasinhints."LiverpoolMercury.
"Thepapersareeminentlypractical,andgomuchfartherintothe
mysteriestheydescribethanthetitle'Hints'properly
suggests."Scotsman.
"Thearticlesareapparentlywrittenbyathoroughlypracticalman.As
apracticalguidethebookwilldoubtlessbeofmuch
service."GlasgowHerald.
"Sofarasthepracticalhintsinthisworkareconcerned,itwillbe
usefultoapprenticesandstudentsintechnicalschools,asitdeals
mainlywiththemostimportantordifficultbranchesoftheplumber's
craft,viz.,jointwiping,pipebendingandleadburning....'Hints'arethe
mostusefulthingstoanapprentice,andtherearemanyinthiswork
whicharenottobefoundinsomeofthetextbooks."English
Mechanic.
"22PRYMESTREET,
HULL,24thNovember,1894.
"Gentlemen,Yourbookstohandforwhichacceptmybestthanks,
alsoforcirculars.ImyselfgotoneofJ.W.Hart'sbooksonPlumbing
fromyourtraveller,andhavinglookedthroughthesameIcansafely
recommenditasbeingthebestbookIhaveseen.Mr.J.W.Harttreats
exhaustivelyuponsolderingandpipebending,whicharetwoofthe
mostessentialbranchesintheplumbingtrade."
THEPRINCIPLESANDPRACTICEOFDIPPING,BURNISHING,
LACQUERINGANDBRONZINGBRASSWARE.ByW.NORMAN
BROWN.35pp.Crown8vo.1900.Price2s.Abroad,2s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.ChaptersI.,CleansingandDippingBoilingupandCleansing:Dipping.
II.,ScratchbrushingandBurnishingPolishingBurnishing.III.,Lacquering
ToolsLacquers.IV.,BronzingBlackBronzingFlorentineRedBronzingGreen
Bronzing.Index.
PressOpinions.
"Mr.Brownisclearlyamasterofhiscraft,andhasalsotheimmense
advantageofbeingabletoconveyhisinstructionsinamanneratonce
clearandconcise."LeicesterPost.
"Athoroughlypracticallittletreatiseonthesubjectinallitsbranches,
andonewhichshouldbeinthehandsofeverytradesmanoramateur
whohaslacqueringtodo."IrishBuilder.
WORKSHOPWRINKLESforDecorators,Painters,PaperhangersandOthers.
ByW.N.BROWN.Crown8vo.128pp.1901.Price2s.6d.Abroad,3s.strictly
net.
Contents.PartsI.,Decorating.II.,Painting.III.,Paperhanging.IV.,
Miscellaneous.Arrangedinalphabeticalorder.
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HOUSEDECORATINGANDPAINTING.ByW.NORMANBROWN.Eighty
eightIllustrations.150pp.Crown8vo.1900.Price3s.6d.IndiaandColonies,4s.
Contents.ChaptersI.,ToolsandAppliances.II.,ColoursandTheirHarmony.
III.,PigmentsandMedia.IV.,PigmentsandMedia.V.,PigmentsandMedia.
VI.,PigmentsandMedia.VII.,PreparationofWork,etc.VIII.,Applicationof
OrdinaryColour.IX.,Graining.X.,Graining.XI.,Graining.XII.,Gilding.
XIII.,WritingandLettering.XIV.,SignPainting.XV.,InternalDecoration.
Index.
PressOpinion.
"Theauthorisevidentlyverythoroughlyathomeinregardtothe
technicalsubjectshehassethimselftoelucidate,fromthemechanical
ratherthantheartisticpointofview,althoughthematterofcorrectness
oftasteisbynomeansignored.Mr.Brown'sstyleisdirectnessitself,
andthereisnotyrointhepaintingtrade,howevermentallyungifted,
whocouldfailtocarryawayaclearergraspofthedetailsofthesubject
aftergoingovertheperformance."BuildingIndustries.
[Pga34]
AHISTORYOFDECORATIVEART.ByW.NORMANBROWN.Thirtynine
Illustrations.96pp.Crown8vo.1900.Price2s.6d.Abroad,3s.strictlynet.
Contents.ChaptersI.,PrimitiveandPrehistoricArt.II.,EgyptianArt.III.,
AssyrianArt.IV.,TheArtofAsiaMinor.V.,EtruscanArt.VI.,GreekArt.
VII.,RomanArt.VIII.,ByzantineArt.IX.,LombardorRomanesqueArt.X.,
GothicArt.XI.,RenaissanceArt.XII.,TheVictorianPeriod.Index.
PressOpinion.
"InthecourseofahundredpageswithsomefortyillustrationsMr.
Browngivesaveryinterestingandcomprehensivesurveyofthe
progressanddevelopmentofdecorativeart.Itcannot,ofcourse,be
pretendedthatinthelimitedspacenamedthesubjectistreated
exhaustivelyandinfulldetail,butitissufficientlycompletetosatisfy
anyordinaryreaderindeed,forgeneralpurposes,itis,perhaps,more
acceptablethanamoreelaboratetreatise."MidlandCountiesHerald.
AHANDBOOKONJAPANNINGANDENAMELLINGFORCYCLES,
BEDSTEADS,TINWARE,ETC.ByWILLIAMNORMANBROWN.Price2s.
net.
[Ready.
Contents.AFewWordsonEnamellingAppliancesandApparatusJapansor
EnamelsToTestEnamelforLeadJapanningorEnamellingMetalsJapanning
Tin,suchasTeaTrays,andsimilarGoodsEnamellingOldWorkEnamelfor
CastIronEnamelforCopperCookingUtensilsTheEnamellingStove
EnamellingBedsteads,FramesandsimilarlargepiecesPaintsandVarnishesfor
MetallicSurfacesVarnishesforIronworkBlackingforIronProcessesforTin
PlatingGalvanisingMetalPolishesColoursforPolishedBrassAGolden
VarnishforMetalPaintingonZincCarriageVarnishJapaneseVarnishandits
Application.Index.
THEPRINCIPLESOFHOTWATERSUPPLY.ByJOHNW.HART,R.P.C.
With129Illustrations.1900.177pp.,demy8vo.Price7s.6d.IndiaandColonies,
8s.OtherCountries,8s.6d.strictlynet.
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Contents.ChaptersI.,WaterCirculation.II.,TheTankSystem.III.,Pipesand
Joints.IV.,TheCylinderSystem.V.,BoilersfortheCylinderSystem.VI.,
TheCylinderSystem.VII.,TheCombinedTankandCylinderSystem.VIII.,
CombinedIndependentandKitchenBoiler.IX.,CombinedCylinderandTank
SystemwithDuplicateBoilers.X.,IndirectHeatingandBoilerExplosions.XI.,
PipeBoilers.XII.,SafetyValves.XIII.,SafetyValves.XIV.,TheAmerican
System.XV.,HeatingWaterbySteam.XVI.,SteamKettlesandJets.XVII.,
HeatingPowerofSteam.XVIII.,CoveringforHotWaterPipes.Index.
PressOpinion.
"Ifallplumbersweretoreadthisbook,andiftheyfollowedthe
instructionsgiven,therewould,wearesure,befeweraccidentsfrom
householdboilerexplosions,andmanylivesmightbesaved.Nodoubt
themajorityofhouseholdersknoworcarelittleaboutthesubject,but
anyonewhowishestoadoptthemostuptodatesystemofsupplying
hotwaterthroughouthishousewillbeabletodosoifhereadsMr.
Hart'sbookandfollowstheinstructiongiven.Itisaworkthatallwho
havechargeofdomesticwatersupplyshouldstudy.Itisapracticaland
profitablebook."WigarObserver.
BrewingandBotanical.
HOPSINTHEIRBOTANICAL,AGRICULTURALANDTECHNICAL
ASPECT,ANDASANARTICLEOFCOMMERCE.ByEMMANUEL
GROSS,ProfessorattheHigherAgriculturalCollege,TetschenLiebwerd.
TranslatedfromtheGerman.SeventyeightIllustrations.1900.340pp.Demy8vo.
Price12s.6d.IndiaandColonies,13s.6d.OtherCountries,15s.strictlynet.
Contents.PARTI.,HISTORYOFTHEHOP.PARTII.,THEHOPPLANT.
Introductory.TheRoots.TheStemandLeaves.InflorescenceandFlower:
InflorescenceandFloweroftheMaleHop:InflorescenceandFloweroftheFemale
Hop.TheFruitanditsGlandularStructure:TheFruitandSeed.Propagation
andSelectionoftheHop.VarietiesoftheHop:(a)RedHops(b)GreenHops(c)
PaleGreenHops.ClassificationaccordingtothePeriodofRipening:1.Early
AugustHops2.MediumEarlyHops3.LateHops.InjuriestoGrowth:
MalformationsDiseasesProducedbyConditionsofSoilandClimate:1.Leaves
TurningYellow,2.SummerorSunbrand,3.ConesDroppingOff,4.HoneyDew,
5.DamagefromWind,HailandRainVegetableEnemiesoftheHop:Animal
[Pga35]
EnemiesoftheHop.BeneficialInsectsonHops.
PARTIII.,CULTIVATION.TheRequirementsoftheHopinRespectofClimate,
SoilandSituation:ClimateSoilSituation,SelectionofVarietyandCuttings.
PlantingaHopGarden:DrainagePreparingtheGroundMarkingoutforPlanting
PlantingCultivationandCroppingoftheHopGardenintheFirstYear.Workto
bePerformedAnnuallyintheHopGarden:WorkingtheGroundCuttingThe
NoncuttingSystemTheProperPerformanceoftheOperationofCutting:I.
MethodofCutting:CloseCutting,OrdinaryCutting,TheLongCut,TheTopping
CutII.ProperSeasonforCutting:AutumnCutting,SpringCutting:Manuring
TrainingtheHopPlant:PoledGardens,FrameTrainingPrincipalTypesof
Frames:Pruning,Cropping,Topping,andLeafStrippingtheHopPlantPicking,
DryingandBagging.PrincipalandSubsidiaryUtilisationofHopsandHop
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Gardens.LifeofaHopGardenSubsequentCropping.CostofProduction,
YieldandSellingPrices.PARTIV.PreservationandStorage.Physicaland
ChemicalStructureoftheHopCone.JudgingtheValueofHops.PARTV.
StatisticsofProduction.TheHopTrade.Index.
PressOpinions.
"Thesubjectisdealtwithfullyineverylittledetailconsequently,even
theveriesttyrocantakeawaysomeusefulinformationfromits
pages."IrishFarmingWorld.
"Farmersarebutlittlegiventoreadingbutnowadaysbrewershaveto
studytheirtradeandkeepabreastofitseveryaspect,andasfaras
regardsourtrade,tothemthisbookespeciallyappeals,andwillbe
especiallyuseful."LicensedVictuallers'Gazette.
"Likeanoasisinthedesertcomesavolumeupontheabovesubject,by
theProfessorattheHigherAgriculturalCollege,TetschenLiebwerd,
Germany,whohasbeenfortunateenoughtoobtainanexcellent
translatorfromtheGermaninthepersonofMr.CharlesSalter.The
paucityofworksuponthehistoryandcultivationofhopsissurprising
consideringthescopeitgivesforaninterestinganduseful
work."HerefordTimes.
"Wecansafelysaythatthisbookdealsmorecomprehensivelyand
thoroughlywiththesubjectofhopsthananyworkpreviously
publishedinthiscountry....Nooneinterestedinthehopindustrycan
failtoextractalargeamountofinformationfromProfessorGross's
pages,which,althoughprimarilyintendedforContinentalreaders,yet
bearverycloselyonwhatmaybetermedthecosmopolitanaspectsof
thescienceofhopproduction."SouthEasternGazette.
"Thisis,inouropinion,themostscholarlyandexhaustivetreatiseon
thesubjectofhops,theircultureandpreservation,etc.,thathasbeen
published,andtothehopgrowerespeciallywillitsinformationand
recommendationsprovevaluable.Brewers,too,willfindthechapter
devotedto'JudgingtheValueofHops'fullofusefulhints,whilethe
wholescopeandtenorofthebookbeartestimonytothestudiousand
carefulmannerinwhichitscontentshavebeenelaborated."Brewers'
Journal.
"Consideringtheextenttowhichthiscountrydrawsitshopsupplies
fromabroad,thistranslationofProfessorGross'svolumewillprovean
interestingandinstructiveadditiontothelibraryofanybreweror
brewers'chemist,themoresoastheworkoftranslationhasbeen
admirablycarriedoutinsimpleandvigorousEnglish....Thevolumeis
oneofavaluableseriesofspecialtechnicalworksfortradesand
professionsthepublishersareissuing,andisthefirstsofardealing
withthebrewingindustry."BurtonMail.
"Aworkupontheabovesubjectmustbewelcomediffornoother
reasonthanthedearthofbooksdealingwithsointerestingatheme,but
fortunatelyapartfromthisthebookwillaffordexcellentreadingtoall
interestedinhopsandtheirculture.ProfessorGrosstakesoneoverthe
wholefield,bycommencingwiththeearliesthistoryoftheplantso
farbackasthedaysofancientGreeceandfrombothpractical,
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theoreticalandscientificstandpoints,dealswiththecultivation,
classificationandformationofthehop....Inspeakingoftheproduction
ofnewvarietiessoundinformationisgiven,andshouldbeofvalueto
thosewhoarealwaysinsearchofimprovements."HerefordJournal.
"Thisworkis,withoutdoubt,themostthoroughandextensive
compilationonhopseveryetofferedtothepublic,andforthisreason
shouldbewarmlywelcomedandappreciatedbymeninterestedinthe
subject.Althoughprimarilywrittenforthoseengagedintheindustry
abroad,andmainlyContinentalintheoryandpractice,itnevertheless
appealstothoseconnectedwiththehopgrowingandbrewingbusiness
inEngland,notonlybywayofacomparison,butalsoasan
instruction.Thevolumeisatoncepracticalandscientific,iswellgot
up,andteemswithillustrationsandstatistics.Inaword,itisabook
thatshouldfinditswayintothehandsofallwhoareoccupiedinhop
productionanddistributionathomeanditalsocontainsvaluable
informationandsuggestionsforthebrewersthemselves."Brewers'
Guardian.
PublicLibraries.
BRITISHLIBRARYYEARBOOK,19001901.ARecordofLibraryProgress
andWork.54Illustrations.Crown8vo,345pp.1900.EditedbyTHOMAS
GREENWOOD.Price3s.abroad,3s.6d.strictlynet.
Contents.NotesforLibraryCommittees.ContributedArticles:TheLibraryRate.
SomePointsinLibraryPlanningMr.Burgoyne.LibraryClassificationMr.Jast.
DevelopmentsinLibraryCataloguingMr.Quinn.ChildrenandPublicLibraries
Mr.Ballinger.FirePreventionandInsuranceMr.Davis.TheEducationalWork
oftheLibraryAssociationMr.Roberts.TheLibraryAssistants'AssociationMr.
Chambers.BritishMunicipalLibrariesestablishedunderthevariousPublic
[Pga36]
LibrariesorSpecialActs,andthosesupportedoutofMunicipalFundsgiving
particularsofEstablishment,Organisation,Staff,MethodsandLibrarians.Table
showingtheRate,Income,WorkandHoursoftheRatesupportedLibraries.
StatisticalAbstracts.BritishnonMunicipalLibraries,Endowed,Collegiate,
Proprietaryandothers,showingdateofEstablishment,numberofVolumes,
ParticularsofAdministration,andLibrarians.LibraryAssociationsandKindred
Societies.
PressOpinions."Thisisahandbookwhichtellsthereadereverythingaboutpublic
libraries,greatandsmall,intheUnitedKingdom....Thebookisdecidedlyoneof
thebestarrangedvolumeseverpublished,andthereisnodoubtthattheeditorhas
beenatgreatpainstoobtainthelatestandmostaccurateinformationfromall
places.County,districtandparishcouncils,ministersofreligion,and
schoolmasterseverywhereshouldmakethemselvesacquaintedwithitscontents.Its
perusalcannotfailtoservetheendsofthelibrarymovement.Theillustrations,of
whichthereisalargenumber,areverygood."Western(Cardiff)Mail.
WORKSINPREPARATION.
246/253
12/9/2014
PRINCIPLESOFSIDEROLOGY(TheScienceofIron).Translatedfromthe
GermanofHANKSFREIHERRv.ZPTNER.
STAINEDGLASS(AncientandModern)andFRETLEADGLAZING.ByE.R.
SUFFLING.
TREATISEONCLOTHFINISHING.ByROBERTBEAUMONT,ofYorkshire
College,Leeds.
INDIARUBBERGUTTAPERCHA.
EVAPORATION,CONDENSATIONANDCOOLING.Calculationsof
DimensionsofApparatus.ByE.HAUSBRAND.Tables.ForChemists,Chemical
andMechanicalEngineers.
THECHEMICALTECHNOLOGYOFTEXTILEFIBRES.Spinning,
Washing,Bleaching,Dyeing,PrintingandFinishing.ByDr.G.von
GEORGIEVICS.[InthePress.
WEAVINGMACHINERY.ThreeVols.ByHARRYNISBET.
COLOURTERMS:THEIRPROPERUSEANDMEANING.ByDAVID
PATERSON.
LEADANDITSCOMPOUNDS.ByTHOS.LAMBERT.
COTTONCOMBERSANDTHECOMBINGPROCESS.ByTHOS.
THORNLEY.[InthePress.
TIMBER.ItsPhysicalandChemicalProperties,Description,Distribution
throughouttheWorld,Forests,PreservationofTimber,andApplications.Fromthe
FrenchofPaulCharpentier.179Illustrations.About500pp.
USEOFWATERINTHEINDUSTRIALARTS.CompositionInfluences
ResidualWaterPurificationAnalysis.FromtheFrenchofH.delaCoux.135
Illustrations.About500pp.
DYERS'MATERIALS:AnIntroductiontotheExamination,Evaluationand
ApplicationoftheMostImportantSubstancesUsedinDyeing,Printing,Bleaching
andFinishing.ByPAULHEERMANN,Ph.D.TranslatedbyARTHURC.
WRIGHT,M.A.(Oxon.),B.Sc.(Lond.).[InthePress.
HANDYGUIDESTOTHECHOICEOFBOOKS.
Vol.I.PROSEFICTION.
Vol.II.TECHNICAL,TRADEANDCOMMERCIALBOOKS.
Otherstofollow.
[InPreparation.
ThePublisherswilladvisewhenanyoftheabovebooksarereadytofirmssending
theiraddresses.
247/253
12/9/2014
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The Project Gutenberg Ebook of The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics, by Franklin Beech

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The Project Gutenberg Ebook of The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics, by Franklin Beech

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12/9/2014

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