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Resume dialogue, let people meet

Wednesday, November 26, 2014

By Ashish Shukla

A young Indian
researcher, met with
open arms in
Pakistan despite
tensions at the official
level, argues that
India should resume
dialogue process and
that both countries
should facilitate
people-to-people
interaction

s a student of Pakistan studies, I

could not resist the temptation to
plan a second visit to Pakistan
when the Trust for History, Art
and Architecture of Pakistan
(Thaap) invited me to make a
presentation at an international conference in Lahore.
Soon after the invitation arrived in July, the
bilateral atmosphere
was vitiated by the
Indian government's cancellation of the foreign
secretary level talks in August.
The situation worsened when the
militaries of both countries violated the 2003 ceasefire across the
Line of Control (LoC) and International border. The question of who
fired the first bullet makes little
sense given the accident-prone
India-Pakistan relations.
In such an environment, all
hopes for a visa were dashed
when the organisers informed us
in October that the Interior Ministry of Pakistan was not responding to their requests to approve
the names of the Indian scholars
for the conference.
I resigned myself to getting my
paper read by someone else at the
conference on November 9, 2014.
But on the afternoon of November
6, the organisers informed us that
the Interior Ministry had approved
the names of all the Indian delegates, and we should apply for the
visa.
The next day was Friday. With
the weekend coming up, that left
us with only one working day to
apply for and obtain the visa. I
submitted my application to the
Pakistan High Commission, New

With Chief Guest Lt. Gen. Akram Khan

At Masjid Wazir Khan: Conference delegates and volunteers

Delhi along with the necessary
documents on Friday, and requested the officials to grant the
visa the same day to allow me to
participate in the conference. The
Pakistan High Commission officials did that, and I commend
them for granting a young Indian
researcher a visa on such short notice.
As I crossed the Attari-Wagah
border into Pakistan the following
day, November 8, 2014, I realised
that I was the only Indian delegate who
had been able to
make it.
It wasn't an easy
decision to go. Just
days earlier, on
November 2, a suicide
attack at Wagah border
on the Pakistan side had
killed at least 55 people and injured over a hundred and fifty. Yet
my family did not protest my decision -- unlike the previous instance
when I visited Pakistan for the
first time in December 2013 at the
invitation of LUMS. Pakistan was
no longer an alien, hostile place
for them: they knew what warmth,
respect and hospitality I had received there.
This time too I had a wonderful
experience, except for attempts
by one policeman to give me a
hard time. This was at the Liberty
Police Station where I had to report my arrival and departure; he
made me report there every day
and tried to get Indian currency
out of me. But this is in the nature

B R I E F S

The cost of conflict in South Asia

he South Asia
Democracy
Watch in association with the
Asia Center, University of Texas, Dallas,
held a seminar last
weekend
titled
'Aman ki Asha and
the Cost of Conflict
in South Asia'.
All four panelists
stressed the need to
ease visa restrictions and allow peo- "Hope for Peace" at UT Dallas. Photo: Raja Zahid Khanzada
ple to travel and
trade for the betterment of the region.
Dr Nyla Khan who teaches at the University of Oklahoma and is a granddaughter of Sheikh Abdullah stressed the importance of pluralism, accountability for
human rights violations, and a sustained, uninterrupted democratic political process.
Houston-based Rotarian Sunil Sharma talked about the importance of devoting all possible resources towards peace building. Medical practitioner Pritpal
Singh of SADW highlighted the importance of trade and the need to change attitudes. Editor Aman ki Asha, Jang Group Beena Sarwar outlined the ideas behind
the initiative and the response it has generated.
The presentations were followed by a lively question-answer session and
reception.

of police in our region. I am sure

it's same in India as well for Pakistani visitors.
On the whole, Pakistanis met
me with open arms, not just at the
conference but also at markets
when I went shopping -- Liberty
Market, Anarkali, Bano Bazar. At
Anarkali, I bought six handicraft
pieces. The gentle, soft-spoken
shopkeeper gave me not only a
discount but also a small
gift. The two drivers who
would pick and drop me
were lovely. The tour
guide who accompanied
us from Delhi Gate to
Lahore Fort was
thrilled there was an
Indian in the group
and addressed me especially in his explanations.
Also, through my interactions
with several young Pakistanis and
delegates from Bangladesh and Sri
Lanka I realised that we South
Asian youth have the same aspirations, expectations, dreams, potential, energy and most importantly, desire to make friends
across the border and coexist
peacefully.
I am even more convinced
that at the people-to-people level,
India and Pakistan have an excellent relationship. However, at the
official level the situation is not
encouraging. There are certain
groups on both sides of the border with vested interests in continuing the hostility between the
two nuclear-armed neighbours.
These groups do not want people

Announcing: the Delhi-Lahore Dhaba trail

n our gastronomic memory, dhabas

aren't just eateries by the highway;
they are bookmarks of unforgettable experiences. Their smoky
flavours make us forget the priciest
of meals in the best of fine-dining restaurants. Nothing can beat the satisfaction of
spooning kaali dal into a crisp tandoori
naan enhanced by dollops of white butter on a cold winter day.
Dhabas are an inseparable part of our
road journeys. Fauji dhaba, Pehelwan
dhaba, Sher-e-Punjab the names line
our highways and stay in our memories.
The Shudh Vaishnav dhabas on pilgrim
routes even take care of cultural sensibilities, offering food cooked without garlic
and onion.
The origin of the dhaba is nebulous. It
is said they sprouted on either side of The
Grand Trunk Road and other highways
during the 20th century, essentially to
serve truckers. The menu reflected the
fact that most truckers came from Punjab. Interestingly, many iconic dhabas are

Feedback, contributions, photos, letters:

Email: amankiasha@janggroup.com.pk
Fax: +92-21-3241-8343
Post: aman ki asha c/o The News,
I.I. Chundrigar Road, Karachi

How to apply

TRAIL DETAIL

: Participants leave Delhi in the morning. First halt, paratha breakfast

at Murthal.
Day1
Move on to Ambala. It's lunch time and what could be better than a stop at
Pooran Singh ka Dhaba for its delectable dal makhni and butter chicken. Onward to Ludhiana. Night halt.

It's time to enjoy freshly made poori aloo with gudka-halwa at

Kanha. Participants then head for the Golden Temple to per3.
form 'sewa'. Along with Chef Kunal Kapur they help prepare langar

not located on the highway. For instance

Amritsar's famous Kesar da Dhaba was
founded in 1916 in Sheikhupura, Pakistan
and moved to the walled city of Amritsar
after Partition. Today, waiters serve its famous dal fry and chapatti in red T-shirts.
In a sense, dhabas are part our shared
heritage with Pakistan; something the
Delhi to Lahore dhaba trail from December 23-28 seeks to relive. (See box)
Several dhabas have acquired legendary status. Puran Singh Ka Mashhoor

articipants need to first register

on the website with their email
ID.
Registration open from Nov 21 to
30, 2014. Once registered, applicants
should select 'Delhi to Lahore Dhaba
trail' from Choose Your Trail option
Sign up for the trail. Participants
need to answer a few basic questions
on dhabas.
Next, the system mails the detailed
itinerary and the associated cost of the
trail to applicants.
After going through the details, participants have to complete the signing
up process by paying Rs 1,000 as registration fee. This is a fully refundable
amount and only confirms the participant's interest in the trail.
Based on the application and your
interaction on our website on social
media platforms, Times Passion Trails
will select 30 participants
Selected participants pay the trail
fee (shared on earlier email) and join
the chefs on this memorable trail

saag and makke ki roti. Topping this feast will be a freshly done
lassi. Arrive Amritsar early evening. And it is time to explore the
street food at Amritsar Beera's Chicken, Makhan's fish for example.

THE FIRST STEP

LET US KNOW WHAT YOU THINK

At the Delhi-Lahore Dhaba Trail, participants will sample the best of highway
cuisine on both sides of the border, guided by an Indian and Pakistani chef

Start for Amritsar from Ludhiana after a typical Punjabi

breakfast; mid-way, participants get off the coach and board
2.
a tractor and visit a village where they will help prepare sarson ka

"A dream come true"

akistani heartthrob Ali Zafar

wowed Indian
superstar Amitabh
Bachchan on the Big
B's popular Kaun
Banega Crorepati
show which he participated in to promote his new film,
Yash Raj Bollywood
movie Kill Dil along
with fellow actors
Parineeti Chopra,
Ranveer Singh and
veteran Govinda. The
audience went wild
when Ali entered the On the KBC set: Ali Zafar with superstar Bachchan. Photo: Publicity
set.
"I grew up watching his films and songs," said Zafar, who also draws and had
gifted Bachcan a sketch he did at age 13. "He adored it and asked me to draw him
'live,' even as the episode was going on. It was a dream come true".
The versatile young actor/singer also did an impromptu performance, strumming an acoustic guitar. He sang a medley of Bachchan's old hits including
'Chookar mere mann ko,' 'My name is Anthony Gonsalves,' 'Angrezi mein kehte
hai,' 'Jaha teri yeh nazar hai,' and 'Yeh dosti'.

At the panel: chair Mushtaq Soofi with Mariam Saleem Farooqi, Ashish Shukla, Rida Arif
official dialogue process. Dialogue is the only and the most effective and efficient way of resolving all outstanding disputes
between the two countries. All
other ways are too costly to consider. Secondly, India should liberalise the visa regime even if
Pakistan does not reciprocate.
These steps would have a positive impact on the overall relationship and strengthen Pakistan's liberal constituency that
advocates for peace and friendship with India.
Pakistan for its part should
give first priority to granting nonpolice reporting visas to Indian
students and scholars who want
Enjoying street food: with Sri Lankan and Pakistani delegates
to visit for academic engagements.
to meet because such interacbrother', from granting visas to
Their positive impressions of Paktions would remove the people's
students, academics, and think
istan can go a long way towards
misconceptions about each
tank researchers of Pakistan?
convincing India and the world
other. Secondly, such interacThe only official justification
community about Pakistan's
tions can lead to people questionprovided is that terrorist elemulti-faceted and positive sides.
ing the official narrative propaments could use these channels
By denying access or making it difgated by the establishments of
to create trouble for India. How
ficult for academics, researchers
both countries.
foolish this argument is; terrorand scholars to visit Pakistan, IsThere is a perception in India
ists don't apply for visas. They
lamabad only feeds the country's
that the security establishment in
cross the border according to
negative image. Additionally PakPakistan benefits from this entheir plan and convenience. It is
istan should also take measures to
mity and discourages people-tohigh time for India to take posiaddress Indian concerns.
people interactions by creating
tive measures in this respect and
hurdles through various ways.
correct the mistakes of the past.
The writer is ICSSR Doctoral
But then what stops India, as the
The first and foremost thing
Fellow, Centre for South Asian
larger country, the 'elder
India should do is to re-start the
Studies, JNU, New Delhi.

food. After participating in the langar they all head for the Beating
Retreat ceremony at the Atari-Wagah border. Guests get ready to
meet a few Pakistani friends who have crossed the border to share
a bite at the famous Sarhad Dhaba. This is truly an Aman ki Asha
setting two masterchefs from neighbouring nations, Chef Kunal
Kapur from India and Chef Mehboob Khan from Pakistan, engage
in a friendly cookout session. The emotionally charged evening
ends with more promises of friendship between the nations.
a great breakfast at a dhaba, the group comprising Indians and Pakistanis
4.theAfter
cross the border to reach Lahore. Once in Lahore, they visit the street food at
Anarkali lane and feast at the famous Cuckoo's Den.
The day in Lahore will be one big culinary shopping expedition for palates
5.Gwalmandi,
Phajje ke Paaye; Chaman ice-cream; buffet at the Village and of course dinner at
discovering the street foods.
Indian participants say goodbye to their Pakistani friends and return to India.
6.head
After a sumptuous breakfast at the Royal Palms, participants arrive in India and
home.

WEBSITE | www.timespassiontrails.com
DATES | Dec 23 to Dec 28, 2014 (6D/5N)
CHEF KUNAL KAPUR LEADS THE INDIAN LEG TILL AMRITSAR, AND
CHEF MEHBOOB KHAN, THE PAKISTANI STRETCH
OPEN TO 30 DHABA ENTHUSIASTS

Vishal Dhaba (near bus stand, Ambala

Cant), Sharma Dhaba on the Jaipur-Sikar
road and Sukhdev Dhaba at Murthal are
some names that spring to mind.

The upward mobility of dhabas is part

of the larger India growth story. At many
places, gaudy plastic chairs and tables
have replaced charpais. Some dhabas
now even have separate air-conditioned
sections. Many have upgraded their wares
and expanded their menus. Note how several gourmet eateries and five-star restaurants replicate the dhaba look.
But for all that, even today, it is hard to
replicate the taste of dhaba specials
butter naan, mooli ke parathe, ande ki
bhurji, dal fry, mutton rice curry and other
dishes. What makes dhabas such a success story? Perhaps they offer a unique
culinary experience a combination of
earthy hospitality, distinctive ambiance
and spiced up comfort food.
TIMES PASSION TRIBES FOOD: A
community for all interested food lovers
Readers can share their thoughts and
ideas on food at the Facebook community: Times Passion Tribes Food. Trail
updates will be available on this platform
along with future activities.

A peace initiative whose time has come...

Destination Peace: A commitment by the Jang Group, Geo and The Times of India Group to
create an enabling environment that brings the people of Pakistan and India closer together,
contributing to genuine and durable peace with honour between our countries.