SUMMER 2009

In association with CV Travel Issue 11

€3

Cricket in
Corfu
SUMMER
Inside a Venetian gardens,
decor,
Mansion travel
& food

www.islandmagazine.gr
... and much more inside ISLAND 
 More than just an Estate Agent
Contents
Hello...
...and welcome to the summer is- 05 corfu news
sue of ISLAND magazine, which has
been produced in association with
With so many estate agents in Corfu, why choose Corfuhomefinders? We have one of the largest selections of CV Travel, Corfu’s premier villa com-
property for sale on Corfu, ranging from old village houses for renovation, land, apartments, off-plan new
ISLAND magazine is published
by: pany. This issue will be available in 07 corfu cricket
developments, commercial investment property to spectacular villas. Tempest Publishing, every CV villa across the island, and
Give us the opportunity to help you find, or build, your ideal property in Corfu! You can find out more about us, and Skripero, we think you will agree that it makes
Corfu life in general, with our blog www.corfubloggers.blogspot.com. Corfu 49083 perfect holiday reading, for those who 10 monkey
Greece want to find out a little more about the
island.

MALARI, Kassiopi
www.islandmagazine.gr
mail@islandmagazine.gr So, what’s in store this issue? Well, 13 explore corfu
Land for sale with building permits and plans for two large luxury on page 22 we take you to the beauti-
villas and two swimming pools in the hills above Kassiopi, north east 26630 23174 ful Corfiot mansion of Fundana, seep-
Corfu. Wonderful views and peaceful setting. Project can be managed and 6942 772 884 ing with centuries-worth of fascinating
history and showing you a different
14 travel
completed if the purchaser so wishes. 6946 804 077
JUST REDUCED FROM 350,000 TO 310,000 Euros. side of Corfu.
Editors:
Mia Daltas & On page 13, learn all about the tiny 18 eat up wine down
Marcus Gondolo-Gordon island of Vidos, a short boat-ride away
from Corfu town’s old port, but better
OLIVE GROVE HOUSE, Grigoratika, Nisaki
An exciting, adaptable stone house in a stunning position in the hills Contributors: still, why not visit it yourself?
22 island style
above the popular village and resort of Nisaki. Wonderful views, peace Monkey
and quiet, and some unrenovated parts giving scope to add your own Richard Pine On page 14, we explore the Ionian
personal touch - a rare find! M.H. even further; if you haven’t already
NOW HUGELY REDUCED from 650,000 Euros to 530,000 Euros Katie Hutley been to Cephalonia, our travel feature 24 cv article
Wendy Holborow is bound to tempt you and being with-
Chris Holmes in easy travelling distance of Corfu, it
makes a wonderful weekend destina-
LULU’S HOUSE, Kato Korakiana
A stunning new villa, perched on top of a hill with breathtaking
Angela Papageorgiou
tion for all us busy Corfu residents 30 corfu rubbish
mountain and sea views. In splendid isolation, offering supreme peace Design / Photography: needing a mini break!
and tranquility, this is the only inhabited house in a totally unspoilt Marcus Gondolo-Gordon
valley, yet the sea at Ipsos and all everyday supplies are only five
minutes drive away.
On a more serious note, on page 30,
we tackle the hot topic of rubbish and
32 decor
Advertising:
1,400,000 Euros recycling in Corfu – we’ve all heard
mail@islandmagazine.gr
the rumours and seen the piles of rub-
Terms and conditions: bish, so at last we find out what’s re- 34 poetry
VILLA(S) ADAMANTIA - Roda, North Corfu ally going on!
All material is strictly copyrighted
Two lovely modern bungalow-style villas built at right and all rights are reserved. No
angles to one another, one with two bedrooms and one part of this publication may be
with three. There is a swimming pool and the gardens reproduced in whole or in part
As always, there are many more fea-
tures to keep you informed and enter-
36 ancient food
are fenced, gated and level for easy maintenance. without written permission of
Ideal for combined living and investment purposes. Tempest Publishing. tained – we hope you enjoy them.
270,000 Euros
We at ISLAND will be taking a 39 politics
ISSN: 1791-1699 break for a while, due to our ex-
VILLA VIGLA, Viglatsouri near Nissaki panding family and decreasing
Excellent north-east coast views, small pool, and
compact size make this villa - only just on the market - an excellent
free time. With daughter number
2 due in August, our editing skills
41 gallery 188
investment, filling the gap in the rental market for two-bedroomed
quality accommodation. will have to be put on hold, but we
335,000 Euros will be back next summer with a
bumper issue, so please look out 43 summer garden
for us then!
26610 33416 - info@corfuhomefinders.com
6945 70 70 81 / 6940 77 79 17 / 6942 06 40 02 Mia Daltas &
Or you can also find us at our
Marcus Gondolo-Gordon 44 girl about town
We are soon moving to our new address: Dassia office, just past the
43 G. Markora Street (behind Markato Chandris Hotels on the left
Supermarket, San Rocco Square). Phone: 26610 93557
 ISLAND ISSUE 11 ISLAND 
 Tired of not having much choice ?
There is a way
In-Stone
new Customised lightweight solutions
BOOK SHELVES
TV / STEREO UNITS
NEWS
KITCHEN / BATHROOM BASES
English Imports is moving
STAIR WALLS premises!
SEATING AREAS To pick up your English magazines and
newspapers, not to mention be tempted
INSIDE / OUTSIDE by the attractive homeware, soft fur-
nishings, linens, etc., look out for Eng-
RELIABLE lish Imports at their new address:
CLEAN WORK 43 G. Markora Street (behind Markato
Supermarket, San Rocco Square.
REASONABLE PRICES
CALL DIRK FISCHER
AGIOT music festival – Glanstonbur y in the sun?
(0030)6945 336095
www.in-stonecorfu.com
There is something for everyone at the Agios Ioan-
nis Music Week this September, whether they be
young or not so young, locals or tourists, and whether
they like jazz, blues, folk, pop or classical music.
This year’s headline act consists of former and
present members of Jethro Tull, Fairport Conven-
tion, Little Johnny England and Steve Gibbons, per-
forming under the name ‘The Dylan Project’. As the
name implies, they will be performing Bob Dylan
compositions, as well as their own and new work.
Other acts include local Greek folk bands, Vas-
silis and Georgios (local guitarists of note), Richie
Henderson from Scotland and Russ Bartlett.
The event is being promoted throughout Eu-
rope and is projected in the future to become
part of the recognised world music festival
circuit – like a Glastonbury in the sun!
Please show your support for this event, as if attend-
ance figures are good, next year’s festival will be
bigger and better, with leading musicians Europe-
wide already provisionally willing to participate.
Tickets for the 12th September’s main gig featur-
ing The Dylan Project, among others, are priced
at 20 euros. Please contact Philip Mawson on 0030
6943050593, or acorfiotutopia@btinternet.com
 ISLAND ISSUE 11
The Philharmonic Society of Skripero celebrates
its 100th birthday!
Founded on 3 May 1909, the Philharmonic Society of
Skripero is one of the oldest philharmonic orchestras of
Corfu. Since 1957 it has been housed in an old mansion,
which has recently been renovated and transformed
into a modern concert-hall. The entire village partici-
pates in the orchestra’s activities, with most of the chil-
dren taking music lessons and joining the band at some
point. The orchestra takes part in all the events of the
village and the surrounding district and often performs
in concerts and at large events in Corfu town.
The first Philharmonic society in Corfu arose during
the period of the British Protectorate, when a Brit-
ish military band performed at the island’s important
events. In 1837 however, the British refused to provide
musical accompaniment for Orthodox processions, as a
result of which the Corfiots founded the Philharmonic
Society of Corfu three years later. Today Corfu has 18
philharmonic orchestras. They are all non-profit mak-
ing companies which provide musical education and
perform at celebrations and events both in and outside
Corfu.
Hankering after
British fashion?
A new store called UK
FASHIONS has just opened and
stocks men’s, women’s and chil-
dren’s fashion from major high
street stores in UK, including
Next, Monsoon, Marks & Spen-
cer, Bhs, Essentials, Principles
and Wallis, to name but a few.
Located on the Ethniki Lefkimmis
road leading out of town towards
the south (past Jumbo and before
the post office and policlinic).
Opening hours: 10-3, 5.30-8.30.
ISLAND 

CRICKET
THE WINNER
By Chris Holmes
I
t was hard to tell which caused the more nail biting: the hos-
tile weather prior to Saturday, May 2nd, or the gripping finale
to the cricket match between local stalwarts Gymnastikos
and a visiting team from the UK, Lord Marland & Sons.
As it turned out, the sun shone on cue and there was a good
crowd round the Liston to watch the expert play – including one
gent who sat square to leg with his back to the action, puffing away
on his pipe and right in line for a biff on the bonce from any meaty
six.
The Marland team included some perfect examples of a breed
I thought extinct: the polite, athletic young as only England can
produce at their best. Aggressively keen with that genial thuggish-
ness that marks a true sportsman. These were represented by the
eponymous Marland sons, Marcus and Hugo, with added muscle
from Henry Lamb and Jack Holmes.
I felt distinctly nostalgic for my own cricketing days but not that
desirous to don bat and pads again when I watched Hugo Mar-
land’s sizzling openers that started the day.
It’s always fun to watch the reaction of visiting teams who come
over with their creased flannels and club blazers and chirpy banter
straight out of Wisden.
Gymnastikos give off a slightly ‘motley’ air as if they’re a bunch
of friends who’ve managed to get a few bats together and a token
wardrobe of sporty garb and are willing to give it a go. They are in
fact tigers with a winning track record.
I couldn’t actually see the ball as it sped from Hugo’s hand and
I felt nervous for both batsman and the Marland XI’s own wicket
keeper as the bowler found his fiery pace and direction on what is
recognized by all as a distinctly ‘eccentric’ pitch.
Opening batsman Misfout played his usual game of letting the
play come to him, seeing what the bowling was about and how the
fielders measured, and then getting stuck in. He gave the visitors
a bit of a runaround and it was a relief when the agile Isabelle Dun-
can sprang into action with a deft catch that brought his innings to
a merciful end.
The bowling was a good mix, Marcus representing the thunder-
bolt school with perhaps a bit more air than his captaining dad
might have wished for, and Tim Mynott delivering a good pace and
calculated length from the Palace end.
I was intrigued by the visitors’ habit of applauding at regular in-
tervals even when nothing much had happened. I thought it might
be some devilish ploy to undermine the home side’s morale, but
no. As it was explained, they were out of practice (could have
fooled me) and were simply boosting each other with encouraging
salutes of anything that showed a particular pulse.
Yes, indeed, the Marland Mob didn’t look too rusty to me and
there were some thrilling displays of fielding, my favourite being
nifty Henry Lamb zapping the ball in for a decisive run out on what
 ISLAND ISSUE 11
the Gymnas must have felt was a safe single.
Matthew Burt made an heroic leap that should have palmed the
leather but did at least inspire his own splendid image of having
‘leapt like a salmon for that one’. Spot-on description and I wish I’d
snapped Mr Burt’s arching grasp as he strained for the catch: it
would definitely have made the cover of Trout & Salmon.
The Gymna’ batsman everyone was eyeing was diminutive 14-
year-old Vasili who looked much too young to be playing with the
big boys. But he wasn’t son of the team coach for nothing and he
played some stylish moves before being caught out on a loose
chip.
The Gymnastikos team left a respectable 158 on the scoreboard
which didn’t seem to phase the Marland & Sons hearties.
The visitors showed fine style and one could see what the older
players must have been like in their college hey-days: George Ste-
venson delivered a model 15 runs and Isabelle Duncan and Mar-
cus Marland set up a good partnership with one of many ace lines
coming from the careful MM to the effect that, “plenty of time …
wait for the bad ones.”
There was talk about Isabelle Duncan being the first woman to
play on the pitch but this was put to rest by several locals, includ-
ing me who covered a match between Gymnastikos and a team
of over-50s who’d worked together on an engineering project on
the island and used a match as an excuse to re-visit and reunite. I
don’t recall anything spectacular from that lady but I was enchant-
ed by Ms Duncan’s classic MCC school of playing, particularly in
her precise handling of some of local bowler Gialourakis’ trickier
efforts to unseat her. I hear that Isabelle has her own coaching
school and very lucky they are too whose cricketing careers are
starting on such a good footing.
Speaking of footings and pitches, I’ve long wondered about our
22 yards of erratic pitch and suspected it provided a distinct advan-
tage to the home team who must know every pothole and ridge.
Both Jack Holmes and Henry Lamb confirmed this, pinpointing an
indentation at the south end precisely located to (literally) wrong-
foot one if going for a confident off drive. While on the subject
of the ‘environment’ the sight lines must be the devil to adjust
to, from meandering pedestrians and the sun bouncing off cars
as they turn to pass through the St George’s Palace gate to the
camouflage foliage against which the ball simply disappears until
suddenly at the crease.
Wides? Can we talk turkey? At this juncture I must make deli-
cate diplomatic mention of what, over the course of the innings,
became an increasing cause for muttered rumblings among Team
Marland: the almost embarrassing disparity between what was
judged a ‘windy’ ball for one side and pukka pitching for the other.
Enough said; some of us live here and may be reporting on games
in the future.
The endearing image of the game for me will always be the tense
countdown as the visitors inched towards the 158 mark and Lord
Marland standing on the boundary, the next man in, bat at the im-
patient twiddle, shuffling from side to side. Never has a bridesmaid
champed at the bit more obviously than our captain himself hoping
for his turn to come.
And it did. At the eleventh hour, with a single to decide, Lord Mar-
land strode in, had his day in the sun with a Pyrrhic run out that
brought the day’s proceeding to a draw, the first for many years to
which the usually victorious Gymnastikos had been fought.
Last word must go to that Bard of the Boundaries, Marcus Mar-
land,
“Cricket the Winner”.
ISLAND 
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 ISLAND ISSUE 11 ISLAND 
MONKEY
BUSINESS
What about this weather, eh? Hot hot hot. Lovely.
Anyway, you’re all looking good, so aren’t you glad you stuck to
that winter regime? Will power – well done.
In fact, so well done that I dedicate this issue’s Monkey column to
all our generous visitors, here to spend their hard-earned shekels
on our paradise isle.
I know why you’re in such good shape: all those naughty six-packs
of Bud that none of you can afford back home have been translated
into the rippling chiseled version round your taut midriffs.
Go on Red I love it when the season opens. Suddenly we’re re-
minded what it’s like to share the road with courteous Highway
Coders, not to mention all those trusting pedestrians striding
out across those faded stripey bits on the road. Funny, I always
thought they were there to remind me to go a teensy bit faster over
that particular strip.
Go on green: There’s a lovely moment in Kenneth Branagh’s
How to kill your neighbour’s dog when an old biddy takes more than
a nano-second to move forward and Branagh calls out, “Come on,
lady, it doesn’t get any greener!” Well, here in Corfu they do get
greener because many of our lights go from red to … nothing. No
light at all, which the locals know is the same as going to green.
Baybe Watch As regular readers know, this column has vowed
to boldly scope wherever pulchritude is perpetrated and I’ve cho-
sen the Kond-ouvia locale for the best of the best.
Heading north from town, don’t miss the entrancing Ms Annete,
latest addition to the Hotel Telesilla’s Kompass Rose bar. And while
you’re about it, have a laugh at their poolside bar where some joker
has put up a very convincing sign forbidding kissing. There’s also
a small fine for transgressors. Crazy.
Gouvia’s Netcafé wi-fi bar sees the return of my favourite Hungar-
ian, leggy smokey-voiced Eszter.
Even further up, in the ‘supermarket’ next to the Morfes bar, the
perfectly proportioned Ms Ran will sell you every conceivable
bling from beach to bar and I’m told there’s a discount for anyone
mentioning this column. Try it.
Names of things you never knew had names:
CHANKING - Spat-out food, such as rinds or pits. You’re in olive
country now. You need to be specific when you ask, “I say, do you
mind flicking your kalamata chankings down wind?” Talk about an
onomatopoeia that instantly conveys its meaning.
OBDORMITION - The numbness caused by pressure on a nerve
when a limb is ‘asleep’. As in, “Sorry to wake you but could you
move your head a tad? Got a bit of obdormition in my left arm. And
what was your name again?”
SCROOP - The rustle of silk, as in “Here she comes now. Darling,
you look gorgeous. I’d recognise that scroop anywhere.”
WAMBLE - Stomach rumbling. Sort of useless trivia that wins
bar bets.
ZARF - A holder for a handleless coffee cup. You know, I’ve al-
ways wanted to tell that barista, “Double decaff, 2% fat and don’t
worry ‘bout the zarf”.
10 ISLAND
Theodorakis My tip for unbelievable value. Beautiful 108-page
documentary album of the work of Mikis Theodorakis, English
and Greek text, masses of photos including unpublished gems
from MK’s personal collection; three music CDs including the
soundtrack of Zorba the Greek, songs of MK, Maria Fantouri and
others; soundtrack from Cacoyannis’ Ifigenia. And get this, a DVD
worth the paltry price alone. The whole package, €19. How does
Katherimini newspaper do it? It’s the real deal. It’s C.O.D. and a
mere €4 for courier and packing. I give Diellas supermarket for my
rendez-vous, the courier service calls my mobile as they get there
and it works like clockwork. In case of difficulty, email to books@
kathimerini.gr .
International Keyboard: We all need those foreign currencies
or accents or whatever. Check out the compressed URL I’ve made
for you – http://tiny.cc./orisg
Fiddle Sticks Monkey doesn’t do politics. Quite enough mon-
key business in Parliament without me poking my simian snout in
where I can’t claim on expenses.
But that Anthony Steen, MP for Totnes, outed for claiming
£87,000 of your money to maintain his multi-million-pound home
in Devon. Quoth he on BBC radio: “What right does the public
have to interfere with my private life? None.”
Reminds me a little of when harridan hotelier Leona Helmes was
nicked for unpaid taxes. Her retort: taxes only applied to “Little
People”.
Well, Davy Cameron soon gave him his marching orders – or
“lose the party Whip”, which set me wondering what that currently
over-used phrase actually means?
It turns out that a “Whip” is not just a party ‘enforcer’, concerned
with ensuring desired attendance for an important vote. It also
describes a party’s endorsement of a member of parliament, so
to “withdraw the whip” is to expel the MP from his/her political
party.
Dept of People Needing a Life. Pringles: crisps or cakes? Real
Plato stuff. To you and me, Pringles taste like a crisp and crunch
like a crisp, right? Three judges agree, overturning a ruling last
year that the snack was “more akin to a cake or chocolate biscuit.”
Eureka! But a costly decision for manufacturers Proctor & Gamble
who now face a tax bill of £100 million for past VAT and £20 million
a year in the future.
Under UK law, most food carries no VAT. Bad luck for P&G,
coated biscuits and “potato crisps, potato sticks, potato puffs, etc”
made from the potato are subject to a tax of 15 per cent.
Pringles contain corn flour, wheat starch, maltodextrin, emulsi-
fier, and much else that Nanny wouldn’t let us eat, but just 42 per
cent potato content which is where the argument raged - over the
“potatoness” of the product.
Potatoness? Governments are tumbling, Darfurians dying, the
bailiff’s at the door… and Learned Counsel is splitting hairs over
cake or crisp?
Tell you what, browse the rest of Corfu’s coolest quarterly and I’ll
have Spiros bring you over a brace of Mythos and oodles of junk
snack as you work on that big-bellied tan. Kalés diakopés!
ISSUE 11 ISLAND 11
 ISLAND PROMOTION
Why choose eco-friendly
Explore
Roula: On the contrary, we are about 20% cheaper with

construction?
Vidos Island
first class quality while building faster than other construc-
tors. This allows the client a little extra in their pocket with
which they are able to enhance their dream home.   
After seeing some environmentally friendly

houses in Agios Georgios Pagi, I decided
to find out more about them. In my quest
for further information I spoke to Roula,
the managing director of PIXIDA CON-
STRUCTION, the company responsible
for building the houses I had admired.
By Ioanna Kampi
Ioanna: So, Roula, how did you arrive at this
idea of environmentally friendly dwellings?
Roula: The idea for my business venture started
some years back, when I attained environmental aware-
ness. I am a Corfiot and love my island so I noticed
that as the population of Corfu grew the need for hous-
ing also grew. The new building sites that appeared
made me soon realize that they were not environmen-
tally friendly, so I decided to do something about it.
Ioanna: So do tell our readers, what your company builds.
Roula: We build structures that are beneficial or non-
harmful to the environment, and are also resource
efficient. This type of construction uses local and re-
newable materials, with less energy required to build,
therefore generating less energy for day-to-day living.
Ioanna: So what does PIXIDA CONSTRUCTION
actually do?
Roula: Pixida helps our clients to realise their dream
home in a dream setting by building them an eco-friendly
home that will ensure character, quality and credibility
with impeccable results.  Constructed with care and atten-
tion to detail, using eco-friendly materials. 
Ioanna: Do these houses have anything more to offer than
a conventionally built home?
Roula: Naturally they do, because the buildings are
healthy to live in, offering a better quality of life.
Ioanna: How about style and design, can you offer a variety
to suit different costumer needs?
Roula: We can create and build anything from an ultra
modern design to a rustic traditional Greek design, as well
as having expertise in renovation projects.  Our team of
architects and engineers with the highest of qualifications
gained throughout Europe, some with over 30 years expe-
rience, work together with our clients, to create their own
design.
Ioanna: Does this perhaps make a house more expensive?
Ioanna: So what materials do you actually use?
Roula: The main material is basically wood and we do not
use harmful metals or materials, thus allowing the building
to “breathe”. As wood is a natural product, it is healthy to
live with and blends in well with the environment. Being
a bad conductor of heat, in contrast to conventional build-
ing materials, such as cement and metal, it offers 9 times
more insulation than cement, 700 times more than steel
and 2.000 times more than aluminium. It keeps a build-
ing warm in winter and cool in summer, and is a natural
sound proofing material. All other materials used are
all either natural or friendly to the environment, such as
slates of HERAKLITY, rockwool insulation, three layers
of plaster, French, Roman or traditional type tiles, etc.
Ioanna: How strong is such a construction?
Roula: The low weight of a wooden structure together
with the high level of flexibility makes the buildings more
durable and they have a much smaller chance of collapsing
should an earthquake occur. This is why our constructions
stand the test of time with carefully selected timber.
Ioanna: Should I want to build a home with Pixida, how
would I go about it?
Roula: Together we can draw up the plans and construct
your dream home. Unlimited decorative features, such
as wood, tiles, decorative stones, marble, glass bricks,
and whatever else you can imagine, can be added to
the design, according to your taste and requirements.
Ioanna: Well, Roula, I would like to congratulate you on
this wonderful venture of yours and to wish you good luck.
Roula: Thank you very much.
Agios Georgios Pagi, www.pixidaconstruction.com
49083, info@pixidaconstruction.com
Corfu, Tel: +30 26630 96230
Greece Mobile: +30 6937 164 766
Newly constructed single storey 3 bedroom Eco
Friendly house. Beautiful location. Fantastic coun-
tryside views. Agios Georgios Only 240,000 Euros
G lance across the water from the old port of Corfu town and
you will see a small, wooded island known as Vidos. It is only
half a mile away and can be reached by boat – there is a regular
service running from the old port. It looks pretty, but is it worth a
visit when there is so much to do in Corfu itself?
Well, this seemingly tranquil little island, known in ancient times
as the Island of Hera (who was the sister of Zeus and goddess of
marriage), has seen more than its fair share of turmoil through-
out history. More about that later, but today, the island of Vidos
is a peaceful escape where Greeks and tourists alike come to en-
joy the historical points of interest, the secluded beaches and the
quiet pine forest. Vidos also accommodates the Kerkyra Bird and
Wildlife sanctuary, and you might well also see the wild rabbits,
pheasants and goats who call this island home. There is a taverna
looking out over the water towards old Corfu town, a great spot
for resting and refueling on traditional food and a good excuse to
make a day of your visit to the island.
Walk inland along pine-strewn paths and the history of this island
unrolls before your very eyes. You may first stumble across the
eerie remains of a prison and its solitary confinement area. When
the Venetians ruled Corfu, from the 15th century to the early 18th
century, tunnels were built linking Vidos with the main island.
Criminals were tried at the old fortress in Corfu town, and then
transported through the tunnels to Vidos, which was once Corfu’s
“Alcatraz”.
Walking along peaceful paths with the sound of the sea never far
away, it is hard to believe that Vidos was for a long time such a stra-
tegic point in Corfu’s defenses; in fact it served as the base for the
Corfu
By Mia Daltas
Ottoman attacks of 1537 and 1716 and following the departure of
the Venetians, Vidos was fortified under French governance. The
French also gave the island its name. The British, who were the
next and last foreign power to rule Corfu, turned Vidos into an
almost impenetrable fortress, before destroying their own and all
the previous fortifications on their departure in 1864. By follow-
ing forest paths, you are bound to also come across the haunting
Serbian Mausoleum, monument to the Serbian soldiers who lost
their lives while defending Corfu’s freedom during the First World
War. Vidos then served as a refuge for the Serbian army, but many
of the soldiers died from exhaustion, food shortage, and various
diseases. More than 5,000 of them were buried at sea, hence the
waters around Vidos are known by the Serbian people as “the blue
graveyard”. Inside the mausoleum, all of the soldiers are commem-
orated and offerings of flowers and candles are strewn amongst
the photographs and memories.
Another point of interest is a beautiful old house, which was
used in the filming of ‘Fedora’, a 1970s film set in Corfu and star-
ring Michael York.
The island being less than a kilometre in diameter, one can eas-
ily explore it all in one visit. Yes, it has a lively and sad history and
some might feel a tinge of melancholy in the air, especially around
the mausoleum, but it is a pretty and quiet place to which to es-
cape Corfu’s busy beaches in mid-summer and very much part of
Corfu’s history.

12 ISLAND ISSUE 11 ISLAND 13

TRAVEL Myrtos beach

Kefalonia: locals were signed up for a

huge cast of extras, the ex-

where Myth becomes Reality

perience poignant for the
town’s elderly population
and the many who will re-
member the horror of the
massive earthquake – also
featured in the film, that
Sarah Button discovers an island struck in 1953. The town
that thrills, entertains and fascinates; is home to the largest port
on the island and ferries
leaving her reluctant to leave. run regularly between Italy
and the Greek mainland. There are hotels, good shopping and
tavernas that offer the delicious Kefalonian meat pie and freshly
caught lobster.

I
f it hadn’t been for Odysseus, maybe we’d have a different
name for a journey that involves adventure; an ‘Odyssey’. For
myself and husband Pete, sailing ‘Tighmara,’ our 40’ sloop,
gave us a chance to follow in the wake of the ancient Greek hero.
Having tied our boat securely to the quayside amongst local fish-
ing caiques, we shook down our sea legs, hired a car and headed
for the hills.

The Ionian Islands are a splendid location for leisurely travel by
boat and we left Corfu with our sights set literally on Kefalonia; the
largest of the Ionian islands and its bustling harbour at Sami.
As we sailed south down the Ithaca channel, Kefalonia to our
right and Odysseus’s fabled homeland to our left, I was reminded
that recently, archaeologists and historians claim to have found ev-
idence that the hero’s home was actually on the Paliki peninsular
on the western side of Kefalonia. It may once have been a separate
island; if so, it would fit Homer’s description of being low-lying,
furthest out to sea, and with no land visible to the west. Added
to the possibility that the hero truly existed, Kefalonia becomes
utterly intriguing.
Styled by ancient history – mythical and otherwise – the island
is blessed with variety; an eclectic collection of attractions and dis-
tractions. Geographical events, the scars of war and the pressures
of modern life have sculpted a place where traditional living meets
the curiosity of an inquisitive visitor with welcoming arms.
Sami played a welcoming host for the filming of Captain Corelli’s
Mandolin, which starred Penelope Cruz and Nicolas Cage. The
14 ISLAND
The mountains offer the highest peak in the Ionian, Mt. Aenos, at
1627m (5,330ft); you can drive practically all the way to the top, but
if you are a keen walker there are well-marked footpaths that fol-
low a higgledy-piggledy route through the pine-forested National
Park. From the summit you can gaze across to Zakinthos, the most
southerly of the Ionian islands. Below you to the south, vineyards
unfurl onto a central plane. This is the home of the grapes that pro-
duce the famous Robola wines. Buffs can sample from a diverse
range at the winery in Omala, which includes a delicious cava. Our
visit left us clutching a few bottles of the light dry crispy Melam-
bus, which goes down a treat with seafood.
If it’s fish that tickle your taste buds you can’t miss a visit to Fisk-
ardo, a traditional fishing port famous for its pretty and cheerfully
painted quayside tavernas. Here you will find Tassia’s restaurant,
named after its celebrity TV chef. Indulge in mouth-watering fish
dishes as you watch out for the rich and famous who moor their
yachts in the harbour. Most of the island’s Venetian influenced
buildings were razed to the ground in the 1953 earthquake, but
Fiskardo escaped the worst of the carnage, and the town retains
its traditional architecture.
Argostoli, the island’s capital, is on the other hand, modern.
Nothing remains of the original buildings, but it is well laid out and
accommodating. A cosmopolitan shopping promenade lined with
pavement cafés is ideal for a spot of people watching over a frappé
or a delicious locally made ice cream. This is where you come for
a night out clubbing, or a day mooching round the Archaeological
Museum and the Folk Museum. Here you will find many clues to
the cultural past of life on the island, from Mycenean gold, to hand
crafted lace and traditional furniture.
The airport is just a few kilometres away; charter flights buzz in
and out of here for much of the summer, making the island acces-
sible from many European cities.
Topping up the tan can be achieved in style. Myrtos beach is
probably the most photographed in Greece and has some of its
rewards in the thrill of getting there, lying at the bottom of a series
of hairpin bends. You can park near the beach tavernas, then dip
your toes in gin-clear water. On a calm day yachts anchor off, send-
ing a crew ashore to replenish their fridges with the ice-cold beer
available at the tavernas.
ISSUE 11
Our last day was spent on the tree-covered hillside of Ag. Pha- Self-catering:
nentes, to the south of Sami. Here we found the remains of the
settlement of Ancient Sami. Aside from the gigantean walls that A well-equipped two-bedroomed villa at Skala, where you can pick
can be spotted on the hillside, there are the ruins of a pre-historic fresh herbs and lemons from the garden, is available from £550
settlement. A short distance away the remains of an ancient thea- per week, excluding fights. Check out www.travelfactfile.com
tre and, beneath the strewn rocks, various tombs have been found.
A Roman bathhouse with mosaic floors and a bronze head dating Something different:
from AD 3000 has also been excavated here. The head is on dis-
play in the Archaeological Museum in Argostoli. But for me, the A one week retreat with Holistic Holidays, including meals, ac-
site offers more than just history. Here, one can touch the soul of commodation and excursions, costs from around £400 excluding
this beautiful place and almost feel the presence of the people who flights. Add another £100 and you can partake in courses for the
have lived here. It is a place that demands your respect, and a place mind, body and spirit.
you want to thank for the privilege of being able to share it. Next The Kritonou centre is protected on three sides by the powerful
to the ruins of the monastery of Ag. Phanentes is a church; here I energizing presence of surrounding hills and mountains, whilst
met an elderly lady; she was dressed in black and carrying flowers, the fourth side offers spectacular views, down a wooded valley, to
which she placed on the altar. Then, she joined me in enjoying the the sparkling blue waters of the Gulf of Argostoli.
spectacular view across a sparkling sea, ‘Ah, very beautiful,’ she www.kritonou.gr
said, and we both sighed and smiled, sharing our appreciation.
Sail your own Odyssey:
You don’t need to be an
Where to stay expert to join a flotilla and
explore the Ionian by sail-
ing-boat.
Hotels: Help is given as you sail
your own yacht in support-
There are many, and a quick search on the web will spoil you for ive and convivial company.
choice, for example; Prices start at around €650
The Emelisse Art Hotel in Fiskardo (www.arthotel.gr/emelisse/) per boat for a week (prices
is a chic boutique hotel decorated in minimalist style and with for skipper and to join a flo-
amazing views of the Ionian. Their website shows no prices, but tilla are extra)
they throw in free diving lessons and the loan of a bike. www.pinnacleyachts.co.uk
ISLAND 15

O
ne day in January, during one of Corfu’s wettest and
most inhospitable winters, a shivering, starving dog
turned up on the doorstep of a house in the country
near Kato Korakiana. The owner of the house knew
all too well that taking on a dog, especially one in this condition,
was a far-reaching commitment, one she was not sure she was in a
position to embark on. Her house and garden were already called
‘home’ by a small community of cats and other domestic animals.
She had heard of the animal welfare charity called CARE, and ar-
ranged to take the poor animal to the charity’s premises near Sidari
and hand her over to them for some much-needed help.
CARE was started six years ago by passionate animal lovers who
had a home on Corfu and who one day found eight starving pup-
pies dumped in a rubbish bin and close to death. All were nursed
back to health and since that time four thousand dogs have been
rescued and re-homed in Greece, Austria, Germany and the UK.
Not without disappointments and difficulties – ‘foreign’ efforts like
this, inspired only by compassion and pity, are often regarded with
suspicion by local people and authorities. CARE receives no gov-
ernment aid – it runs on voluntary contributions alone, and until
funds allow for the setting up of a more formal arrangement, the
animals are cared for at the home of the Corfu Head of Operations,
Cheryl Graham.
When the little stray Boxer was taken to Cheryl’s shelter, there
were 26 dogs currently awaiting treatment and re-homing. (Today,
as I write this, there are 35). The person to whom the dog had en-
trusted herself decided that it was unfair to expect CARE to take on
another dog when, with a few adjustments, she could cope. So the
Boxer acquired a name – Molly – and a new and very loving home.
Like any dog, Molly gives more than she receives – undying affec-
tion, loyalty, trust and companionship seem to be a disproportion-
ately rich reward for the offering of a warm basket, a regular sup-
ply of dog biscuits and the feeling of ‘belonging’. This, and an end
to loneliness, are all any dog or cat needs. This is what Molly has
found, and what CARE tries to provide for less fortunate animals.
With a substantial and, it seems, ever-growing population of stray
dogs, Corfu has a way of pulling at the animal-lover’s heartstrings
every day. There just aren’t enough facilities to deal with the prob-
lem of unwanted dogs, not enough money to fund the shelters that
are so badly needed. A dog pound was set up a few years ago near
Acharavi, but funds and interest dried up. Keeping pets was never
a priority for the local people, animals such as dogs had to earn
their keep, and perhaps the only really pampered animals were
the very expensive dogs required by hunters. Even then, the
pampering lasted only as long as the dog was useful. Things have
changed considerably, as the number of pet food stores and pet
grooming establishments indicates, but while pedigree dogs fare
well enough, mongrels don’t do so well.
16 ISLAND
CARE
Seville cathedral
Corfu Animal Rescue Establishment
Stray cats proliferate too, but they are far less depend-
ent on humans once they survive the first few months
‘A splendid year-round destination’
of their lives. Left to their own devices, it is very much
a case of ‘the survival of the fittest’, and it is only when
a soft-hearted human gives in to the appeal of cats and
starts to feed them that they begin to reproduce and
become dependent. Neutering cats is the most efficient
and kindest way of controlling their numbers and this is
something that, here in Corfu, is done voluntarily by a
number of concerned individuals and small animal wel-
fare groups. Perhaps this is a good place to mention that
Greek cats are not always as undernourished as foreign
visitors assume – they are descended from a species
peculiar to the Mediterranean and Middle East – long
and very slim.
Stray dogs, however are another matter – a bigger problem in
every way. Local people shy away from having dogs neutered – if
you really delve into the reasons for this you find a natural abhor-
rence of interfering with the natural processes – an abhorrence
that goes very deep and has nothing to do with the practicalities
of life. So unwanted puppies proliferate and are dumped without
hesitation, to fend for themselves or not. Finding a bag or box of
abandoned puppies is heartrending – finding homes for them near-
ly impossible. Corfu’s animal lovers only have so many homes to
offer – saturation point has been reached time and time again.
During the summer months the stronger, cleverer and more ap-
pealing strays survive by gathering in the holiday resorts and play-
ing on the emotions of the tourists. But there is no such source of
food in winter, the animals reproduce twice a year, and helpless
puppies need attention all year round.
Local vets are sympathetic , kind and helpful, but they have to
make a living and while they have no hesitation in treating sick
or injured strays, or in putting down doomed puppies or adult
dogs too sick to survive, they have to be paid for their work, even
though they will often take the minimum amount of money. One or
two local animal welfare groups have come into existence in recent
years, and all of them depend on financial contributions in order to
carry out their work and pay the vets.
One of these is CARE, who, with limited space and facilities, very
limited funds, but an endless supply of determination and love for
the animals, manages to make a difference.
With a very successful programme of neutering, the setting up
of feeding stations for animals for whom they have no room, and
a high rate of success in re-housing animals, CARE deserves the
support of everyone who comes to Corfu and is touched by the
plight of so many stray animals.
CV Travel is one of the charity’s leading sponsors, and one of
their initiatives is to place envelopes in every one of the villas in
their Corfu programme, and to encourage their clients to donate
whatever they can to help support CARE. The current economic
climate has affected donations to charities as much as anything
else, but every little helps.
‘First-class food and service in a dramatic setting’
To read about CARE and all its aims and activities, go to the
website: www.carecorfu.com
For information about adopting a dog or cat, call Cher yl
Graham on (0030) 6972 072 155.
To make a donation, contact Cher yl, check the website, How to find us: take the newly paved road down to Kassiopi har-
or contact CV Travel in Kassiopi bour. At the harbour, turn left and continue along for 400 - 500 m.
(0030) 26630 81100/81800.
ISSUE 11 ISLAND 17
EAT UP / WINE DOWN
W
hen it’s hot outside, the last thing you might feel like do-
ing is eating a heavy meal, or cooking it for that matter!
But summer in Corfu is the ideal time to enjoy long, lazy
meals, eaten outdoors under the shade of a vine during the hottest
part of the day. This must be why the traditional meze came to be in
the first place – what better way to eat in these circumstances than
to pick at a selection of small tasty snacks? They are convenient for
the cook too, as they needn’t all be brought out at the same time,
nor need they all be cooked at the last minute – some cold meze
may be prepared in advance. Of course, tavernas offer a wide vari-
ety of meze, which we are all familiar with, although they do tend
to be a bit samey; fried calamari, tzatziki, cheese pies, etc. When
making your own meze why not attempt something a little more
unusual, something you can’t easily find on taverna menus? Here
are some ideas to make any summer gathering a sure success. Just
make sure there is some fresh bread, olives, a salad made out of
juicy summer tomatoes and good olive oil, and perhaps a good old
tzatziki. All recipes serve 4-6 as part of a meze selection.
Flaming saganaki with chilli
Saganaki is named after the two-handled pan (sagani) in
which it is made; a frying pan or sauté pan will do just as
well though. The classic version has no chili or brandy,
so feel free to leave either of these ingredients out.
500g kefalotyri or kasseri cheese
(or smoked metsovone, for a change)
1 tablespoon of olive oil
2 tablespoons of flour
1 small red chilli or a pinch of dried chili flakes
2 tablespoons of brandy
2 lemons, quartered
Cut the cheese into large slices or wedges that are about 1cm
thick. Moisten each slice with cold water and dredge in the flour.
In a small frying pan (cast-iron is best), heat the oil over medium-
high heat, and sear each slice, sprinkled with the chilli, until
golden-brown on both sides. Pour the brandy over the cheese
and ignite immediately. Serve straight away with lemon wedges.
18 ISLAND
Lamb meatballs with feta and mint
500g lamb mince
1 thick slice of white bread, crust removed
1 small onion, grated
1 handful mint leaves, chopped
1 handful parsley, chopped
1 egg
50g pine nuts, lightly toasted
Salt and pepper
200g feta
2 tablespoons flour
Olive oil for frying
1 lemon
Soak the bread in water until soft, then
squeeze all the liquid out. With your hands, mix
it with the lamb, onion, egg, pinenuts, herbs
and seasoning. Cut the feta into 1cm cubes
and mould the meat mixture around the feta
cubes to make even-sized, small meatballs.
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan until
very hot. Coat the meatballs with the flour and
fry (in 2 batches if necessary) until brown
on all sides. Serve with lemon wedges.
ISSUE 11
by Mia DALTAS / Marcus GONDOLO-GORDON
Stuffed courgette flowers
You are very unlikely to find courgette flowers at the supermarket,
but if you go to the market in Corfu town or to a good vegetable store
(the one at Diellas, Gouvia is a good bet), you should get lucky. Don’t
bother buying them unless they are crisp and healthy looking; the
overly limp, brown-at-the-edges flowers simply won’t do for this dish.
For the stuffing
150g ricotta or soft mizithra
100g feta, crumbled
Zest of ½ lemon
1 small handful of mint leaves, shredded
Salt and pepper
For the flowers
12 courgette flowers
Vegetable oil
150g self-raising flour
260ml fizzy water
Sea salt and lemon segments to serve
Gently open the courgette flowers, cut out the pollen stems and
give them a quick rinse. Drain well on a tea-towel. Mix together
the ingredients for the stuffing, then carefully press a ball of the
filling into each flower and twist the flower closed. This stage can
be done up to a day in advance.
Heat 2cm of vegetable oil in a saucepan (or a deep-fat fryer). The
oil must be hot enough to sizzle a small cube of bread, turning it a
deep golden brown in a couple of minutes.
Mix the self-raising flour and fizzy water to make a light batter.
It should be the consistency of thin double cream. Dip the stuffed
flowers in the batter, being careful that they don’t open, and fry
in the hot oil, 3-4 at a time, depending on the size of your pan.
You may need to turn them over to make sure both sides cook. It
should take 2-3 minutes for the batter to become crisp and pale
gold in colour.
Drain on kitchen paper, patting off any excess oil. Season with
sea salt and a squeeze of lemon before eating.
2006 Domaine Evharis
Eva Rosé Sparkling Wine
12% vol
Order from your local Cava
We use Cava Garnelis: 6945 460 710
Cair is generally the sparkling Greek wine of
choice. However we at ISLAND are sparkling Rosé
fans and have sought out this little sparkly gem
which will be a welcome accompani-
ment to any entertaining we do
this summer!
The multi award winning wine estate of Evharis
comprises of 400 sq. meters in the foothills
of the Geranian mountains. It lies between
two seas, the Corinthian and Saroniko, at
an altitude of 380-400m. The estate is less
than one hour from the city of Athens.
The grapes are hand-picked and brought to
the winery in small plastic crates. Following
careful sorting of the grapes, they are fed into
the destemmer where the stems are separated
from the grapes. After this they are fed into
state-of-the-art pneumatic presses where they are
gently pressed at low pressures. This is followed
by debourbage and then after eight hours the
must, which has cleared naturally, is collected. No
pumps are used during processing of the grapes.
Vinification is done using the sealed tank method.
The wine has a rich rosé hue, with a delicate fruity
bouquet, pleasant sweetness and long-lasting
bubbles – perfect for long hot summers and light
meals.
ISLAND 19

WHY DID WE
COME TO
CORFU?
More importantly, perhaps –
why did we stay?
Some ver y personal
reflections on what
Corfu means to me –
and probably you, too.
By Angela Papageorgiou
I
t’s that time of day that the Greeks call ‘the little evening’ and
the English call ‘late afternoon’. It is mid-May and while it is
warm for the time of year, there is a hint of evening chill to
come. I am sitting outside the house, writing. Three cats, two gin-
ger, one grey, all tabbies, are sprawled comfortably on the patio
tiles, watching warily for the first sign that I might be heading for
the Whiskas cupboard. They are not strays, not quite feral, they
simply live within my boundaries. I have never given them names.
We simply co-exist. They give me the pleasure of their company, I
give them food.
It is the time of day when the swallows are out swooping on in-
sects, foraging. They return to the same nesting places each year
in March, greeted with the same affectionate enthusiasm by the
local people as the first tourists and for much the same reason
– as a sign that winter is finally over, and the darkness is departing.
Every evening at this time I sit outside and each time a single swal-
low perches on the power cable overhead, cleaning his feathers
and emitting a non-stop commentary of chirrups, chatter, warbles
and trills that seem to be for my ears only.
Apart from this, there is little else to disturb the peace – the odd
fly buzzes busily in the garden, a huge and seriously clumsy car-
penter bee crashes yet again into the wind chimes, and a dog wel-
comes someone home with a series of excited yaps. It is too early
in the summer for cicadas, though the mosquitoes are already
making their annoying presence felt. As dusk approaches, the fire-
flies switch on their lights and sparkle amidst the bushes.
At this time of year, when Nature runs riot, the sound of strim-
mers is much in evidence, but with the onset of evening they are si-
lenced and the felled weeds smoulder on the bonfires that are not
yet forbidden, leaching their fragrance into the air. I have drunk
the last coffee of the day and my taste buds tell my brain that an
ouzo would be nice right now, with a handful of smoky flavoured
olives and a piece of pungent feta.
Why did I stay in Corfu? Partly for this, I suppose, the feeling of
truly being alive, of seeing more clearly in this shimmering light,
of hearing more acutely, even the sound of small insects. Tastes
20 ISLAND
become as vivid as colours, smells as evocative as sounds. sonable amount of paperwork,
Over and over again people refer to the ‘magic of Corfu’, and
for every one of us the magic is different, yet just a part of the
stamps, signatures, affidavits
and photographs. Rest assured
that this is not because you are
great spell that the island casts over all its visitors. That magic has British, or Dutch or non-Greek
been named and hinted at by many people. Shakespeare is said to in any way – the Greeks them-
have referred to it in The Tempest, everything written about the selves have to endure the same
Apollo Line mentions it, two books entitled ‘This Rough Magic’ pettifogging bureaucracy. Just
were about Corfu (one of them, not by Mary Stewart, placed it at join the queue, fill in the forms,
the heart of a demonic empire), and just about every travel writer and console yourself with the
has mentioned it at least once in his or her articles. thought ot retreat to the beach,
or the hills, or wherever else
It doesn’t take long for Corfu’s magic to enter your bloodstream, you find your own magical
never to be shaken off again. Victorian travellers were ‘hooked’ Corfu.
as soon as their ship rounded the northeastern headlands and
entered what looked, and still looks, like a vast lake, defined by I beg you to read the poem
the shores of Albania, mainland Greece and Corfu itself. There is ‘Ithaka’ by Cavafy, or listen to
surely magic in that juxtaposition of ancient empires and civilisa- Sir Sean Connery recite it on
tions? Today’s visitors are more likely to be intrigued by their first YouTube to music by Vangelis.
glimpse of Corfu’s unique shape from the air, apparently floating
on a glittering sea. Seeing it is not enough however. You have to
Though it speaks of a journey
to Ithaka, as an allegory for the
meet its people, walk its streets, swim in its waters, taste its food journey through life, it has al-
and hear its music to even begin the enchantment and even then ways made me think of Corfu.
– there is much that cannot be put into words. The journey through life that
People say Corfu is a paradise, but just as everyone’s Hell is a
brought me to Corfu was a
memorable one, too.
different place, so no two people have the same expectations of
Paradise. I would say that Corfu is a place where anything is possi-
ble, where people discover themselves, or a new and unsuspected
version of themselves. It teaches you to be self-reliant instead of
depending upon some faceless ‘nanny’ figure to provide for you.
It teaches you to question who you have become and to have
the courage to change. It teaches you to value the simpler, older
things in life – the joy of conversation, the company of friends, the
beauty of natural things, the satisfaction of cooking with, and for,
the people you love, watching your children grow up.
Life in Corfu can be frustrating and disappointing, difficult and
unpredictable, ridiculous and even farcical at times. People get ‘is-
land fever’ and feel the need for wide-open spaces and anonymity.
If they leave, they usually come back, hungry for that feeling of
belonging, of being someone, of being alive. Many of the children
of marriages between foreign wives and Corfiot husbands leave
and go away for educational opportunities and careers in wider
fields than Corfu can offer. The parting is rarely permanent. Oth-
ers are happy to stay and carve out a life of their own here.
Someone told me today that when she came to Corfu, thirteen
years ago, she had the feeling of ‘coming home’. She felt like a
snake that had just shed its old skin and was ready to start afresh.
These days people make plans to come to Corfu, buy a property,
settle here. Things were not always so organized. Back in the
60s, that great era of rebellion, against parents and governments,
people used to wash up upon these welcoming shores much as
Odysseus once did. Hippies, Scientologists, writers, artists, actors
– Corfu was tolerant of everyone and absorbed them all. Some of
them are still here. The 70s ushered in the great age of package
holidays and Corfu saw the arrival not only of holidaymakers in
force, but of reps, au pairs, car hire drivers, doctors’ reception-
ists, hotel workers, chefs, gardeners, yacht skippers, teachers of
English, handymen, builders and many others, all from mainland
Greece and abroad. Tourism has had its ups and downs, but so
many of those people stayed on in Corfu, unable to shake off the
feeling that they belonged here. Few of them ever planned or even
imagined that they would one day call Corfu ‘home’. Somehow it
just seemed inevitable.
Staying here is not without its problems – though entry into the
EU has solved some of them, somehow it has exacerbated others.
It sometimes seems as if, in order to do anything, from buying a
car to collecting a parcel from the Post Office, you need an unrea-
ISSUE 11 ISLAND 21
STYLE
W
hen the mansion of Fundana was built, on a ridge over-
looking the Skripero valley on one side and the Ropa val-
ley on the other, over 400 years ago, the only existing
road was that from the Venetian port in Gouvia to Angelokastro,
high above Palaiokastritsa on the west coast. It was only in 1828
that the High Commissioner Lord Adams ordered the Corfu-Pal-
aiokastritsa road to be built, allegedly as a gesture of love towards
his Corfiot wife, to whom he wanted to show the sunset on the
west coast.
Not a lot seems to have happened around there since then; it
remains one of Corfu’s most unspoiled areas, with 18 lakes nes-
tling in the Skripero valley, inhabited by small green frogs who
serenade Fundana every night, and who have given Skriperiots
their nickname: “frog-eaters”. Around the lakes grows two-metre
high papyrus, only found in this area of the island; it was once
used for building the traditional boat “papirella”, in which Corfiots
would travel as far as Italy (an example of which can be seen at the
folklore museum in Sinarades).
Fundana itself manages to both reside over the surrounding coun-
tryside and nestle discreetly into it, as if the passing centuries have
cancelled out its man-made status and increased its dignity. A long,
winding drive ribbons its way through olive groves up towards the
mansion, occasionally rewarding the visitor with glimpses of the
intriguing building ahead.
On arrival, an ancient stone staircase sweeps gently up to the
main house amidst tumbling honeysuckle, rambling roses and fra-
grant myrtle in full bloom. The lack of any ostentatious landscap-
ing, gates or other fixtures is refreshing and somehow allows the
natural charm of this place to shine through, like a beautiful woman
wearing no make-up. Indeed, in the grounds of Fundana the owner
has counted 24 of the 55 species of wild orchids growing in Corfu
– it would be criminal not to let nature take its course here.
22 ISLAND
Fundana main house
which came close to burning down the mansion itself. In more re-
cent years, there have been other threats to the area – plans for a
ISLAND goes back in time road, a rubbish dump and a prison have all been seriously consid-
to visit an historic mansion ered and furiously fought against by the Spathas family. Let’s hope
their sheer determination and their faith in the protective powers
of the area’s patron Saint Onoufrios are enough to safeguard this
Written by Mia Daltas unique piece of paradise.
from the estate’s remaining 500 olive trees, as well as almonds,
wine and even artichokes.
Although the guest cottages have been fully restored and offer
high quality accommodation, the main house where the Spathas
family lives is literally crumbling. Inside, the rooms may be full of
beautiful things that speak of former glory – Venetian, British and
French antique furniture, an Austrian 19th century piano, rare oil
paintings, including three by the well-known artist Angelos Gial-
linas – but the framework of the house is showing its age. Flaking,
patchy paint and rickety woodwork are just the visible signs of this
mansion’s state of disrepair; who knows what the full extent of the
damage is?
The good news is that a much needed facelift is expected to go
ahead fairly soon, once an EU grant has been secured. Mr Spathas,
himself an energetic and enthusiastic man who has clearly taken
much pride in doing everything he can to maintain his family home,
beams with pleasure when he tells us that his son will soon be fin-
ishing his studies and returning to assist with running the family
business. They plan to start a small but “very special” taverna in
the mansion’s beautifully preserved olive press, serving traditional
Corfiot fare. They also hope to sell the estate’s own olive oil, which
would be a wonderful string to Fundana’s bow.
If the entrance looks strangely familiar, cast your mind back to A place like Fundana takes some fighting for, as Mr. Spathas
the 1987 BBC production My Family and other Animals, in which knows all too well; in 1981 he lost 400 olive trees to a forest fire,
Spiros leads the Durrell family up these very stairs and proudly
announces “this is the villa with the bathroom!” The mansion’s old
kitchen too, seemingly untouched by the passage of time and on-
slaught of modern appliances, is very recognizable from the series.
A second BBC production of the same story was also shot here in
2005 and the garden still boasts the strawberries planted by the
crew in 1987, because they were needed for a particular scene, as
well as two trees planted by the second crew as part of the set.
The oldest part of the house is the Venetian building, the “fonte-
go”, meaning “a storeroom for wheat”, which was built in 1570 and
has 90cm-thick, Venetian porcelain-clad walls and the intertwined
metal bars over the windows which are typical of medieval Vene-
tian architecture. When, in 1668, Crete was taken by the Turks,
many families fled to Corfu, including the Byzantine-descended
Giallina family. Because of services to the Venetians, this family
was awarded a large piece of land between Skripero and Liapades,
containing 4,000 olive trees. It is here that the main house and ol-
ive press of Fundana was built, around the old storeroom, in order
for the family to supervise the agricultural work, although they
officially lived in Corfu town. The mansion still features the walls
that were built around it then for protection, as well as the elegant
main entrance, linked from the building’s south side to what used
to be the old road to Gouvia, but now leads to the area’s beautiful
Saint Onoufrios monastery, one kilometre away.
In around 1880, the oldest of five children, Innocente Giallina,
whose portrait still hangs in the drawing room, inherited the house.
His daughter married the current owner’s grandfather, Spiros
Spathas, also his namesake. Fundana was declared a protected
monument in 1981 by the Greek Ministry of Culture, and has since
been run as a traditional hotel by the Spathas family, who built a
large swimming pool and converted the mansion’s outhouses into
12 holiday cottages. The family also continues to produce olive oil,
ISSUE 11 ISLAND 23
 D Tony Kennedy
uring the first week in May 2009 a couple who arrived to stay at one of Prosilio, Kassiopi
CV Travel’s lovely villas in the north-east of Corfu mentioned to their rep-
resentative that they first visited the island 33 years ago. They were also

draws Corfu
guests of CV Travel at that time, though the Company was then called
Corfu Villas. Whereas today they would have been met at the airport by one of an ef-
ficient team of Airport Representatives, back then they were met by the Cooksons, the
original owners of the Company, in their jeep, and whisked away to a villa....cont.

Tony Kennedy’s intricately detailed drawings of Corfu are

immediately eye-catching and seem to perfectly capture the
elegant beauty and faded colours of Corfiot architecture.
A typical example of his work features on ISLAND’s front
cover in this issue; other examples are featured on this page.
His work involves drawing in fine detail using water soluble
pencils, a method he also employs at home in England to
draw beautiful house facades by commission.

Tony was brought up as a child in Africa, but returned to

U.K. to study art at St. John’s College, York. He later be-
came a teacher of children with learning difficulties and
then of young offenders. He has always used art as an al-
ternative means of communication with people and, since
retiring from teaching two years ago, has concentrated on
drawing and painting. His work has been exhibited in vari-
ous galleries and was featured in Art of England magazine
earlier this year.

Holiday in style with

CV Travel
24 ISLAND ISSUE 11 ISLAND 25
 Caribbean, North and South Africa, the Middle East, Brazil, Thai-
Vinita, Kassiopi land and New Zealand. Sister-company, Ski Verbier, is renowned
for the last word in catered chalet sophistication, while CV’s new-
est venture is closer to home with a collection of exceptional prop- Kaparelli House, Avlaki
erties in the British Isles.

The qualities that made the Company what it was, and always will
be, remain unchanged however. Everyone who travels with CV is
an individual and will be treated as such from the first tentative
enquiry to the final moment of the holiday. There is nothing ‘pack-
aged’ about the CV service.

In Corfu, this means being able to call upon local staff who live
on the island and know it well. They are friendly but never intru-
sive, and more than willing to share their knowledge. They are
adept problem-solvers and always keen to meet a challenge. When
the daughter of Russian guests required a piano for her daily prac-
tice, CV was able to hire one for her. A nervous lady decided she
wanted to learn to scuba dive, and an instructor was found to teach
her – in the villa pool. Party-mad guests demanded – and got – a
Everything was on a smaller scale in those days, not least the band, extra chairs and glasses, two pretty waitresses and three lo-
airport building itself, which today houses the Corfu Flying Club. cal butchers to oversee the expert barbecuing of several lambs.
Shortly after Corfu Villas began operations, a new airport termi- No request is ever ignored, whether it is for a massage by the villa
nal was opened, the runway was lengthened for the first time, and pool, private water-ski lessons, a supply of children’s books, or – as
the first arrivals of large jet aircraft were scheduled. Half the town once happened – the replacement of the coloured sofa cushions
population turned out to watch the landing of the first big Boe- with a set of white ones.
ing, convinced that the runway would collapse under
the weight, or the aircraft would roll off the end The services of a cook or chef are still much
into the lagoon. in demand, but the days of the Sloane cooks
are but a fond memory. Now CV employs Outdoor kitchen and dining
When the Company first started opera- “No request is ever Thomas, a kindly and adaptable Corfiot
tions, there were just a few handmade
brochures that would be sent out to ignored, whether it is for a chef, Linda, an Englishwoman with a
flair for Italian cooking, and Gary, a
prospective clients with a polite re- massage by the villa pool, pri- Scottish chef with years of experi-
quest to return them. These were ence in Corfu and aboard yachts.
soon followed by slender printed bro- vate water-ski lessons, a supply CV offers, also, the services of a
chures that became collector’s items. of children’s books, or – as once wedding organizer, finds nannies
and babysitters, arranges private
Villas were not expected to provide happened – the replacement of boat trips, and has at times assisted
anything but basic, simple accommo-
dation, but then – as now – they were
the coloured sofa cushions in getting dogs and even donkeys
back to new homes in the UK. A very
always in the very best locations. Then, with a set of white ones.” comprehensive welcome pack is pro-
a fridge and a gas cooker were the basic vided on arrival, containing sufficient sup-
items of villa equipment, supplemented by a plies to make it possible to create an evening
selection of cooking utensils. Today’s brochures, meal for that first evening without having to sum-
however, list as villa facilities such items as microwaves, mon the strength to leave the villa. Smart pool towels
air-conditioning, iPods, satellite TV, Internet access and, of course, with the CV logo are also supplied.
the ubiquitous swimming pool.
During their stay in Corfu, CV guests have the opportunity to
Self-catering in those pioneering days meant making toast under attend the now famous ‘CV Drinks Party’, a weekly event, held at
a wonky gas grill and boiling water for tea in a saucepan. Certain Damianos Bar in the pretty village of St Stephanos. This provides
villas, however, were able to benefit from the services of a CV cook an opportunity for guests, CV staff and villa owners to meet each
– British girls, qualified Cordon Bleu cooks, who would spend a other in an informal and congenial setting, and is another example
season in Corfu working exclusively for CV. (Those were the days of the unique CV service.
of the ‘Sloane Rangers’ – for whom ‘The Official Sloane Ranger
Handbook’, published in 1982, recommended a Cordon Bleu cook- The travel industry is well-known for the movement of staff, from
ery course as further education, followed by a summer cooking for one company to another, but CV has loyal and enthusiastic staff,
CV in Corfu as a suitable job.) many of whom have been members of the Corfu team for an im-
pressive number of years. Those who have left and gone their vari-
In 1983, Corfu Villas Ltd changed its name to CV Travel Ltd to ous ways invariably retain a connection of some kind with the Com-
reflect the Company’s growing programme of villa rental destina- pany – often returning as clients themselves. Travelling with CV or
tions into Italy, France, Portugal, Spain and the Balearics. Since working for CV – there is something unique about the experience.
that time, there have been other changes – notably, changes of
ownership resulting in CV Travel becoming part of the prestigious This year the Corfu Team is once again headed by Kate Eales,
Kuoni Group in 2007. who has been with the Company for nine years. In her role as Op-
erations Manager for the Ionian Islands, although she is kept very
Over the past 37 years, the Company has grown from a small busy here on Corfu and also travels to Paxos, Lefkada & Kefalonia,
operation arranging holiday houses in Corfu for friends and fam- she still finds time to enjoy the qualities that make Corfu so special,
ily of the owners, to become one of the world’s most esteemed and to spend valuable time with her children. Elaine Conway, with
villa rental companies. Now there are seven incredibly glamorous CV for ten years, heads the team of representatives and occasion-
brochures and a website, featuring hotels and villas in Europe, the ally finds time to indulge her enjoyment of cooking and reading. In

26 ISLAND ISSUE 11 ISLAND 27

the office in Kassiopi, Julie and Sarah cover every eventuality with
great enthusiasm and tact – both are ‘old hands’ in Corfu and have
years of experience to call upon. Angela has been with the Com-
pany the longest, and reckons she has seen and heard everything
that goes on – useful experience when engaged in copywriting for
the CV brochures. Julie, Sue, Jo and Anneke cover a great deal
of ground as the Company’s representatives, visiting the guests,
dispensing advice and recommendations. Long hours for the team
don’t leave much time for hobbies apart from a Sunday swim and
the occasional meal with friends or family, but winter, when Corfu’s
tourist industry is idle, is the time for favourite activities, amongst
which walking the dogs and reading feature strongly. Interestingly,
members of staff who have pets have almost always given a loving
home to one of Corfu’s stray or abandoned animals.
The Team is most ably backed up by Giorgos, the CV handyman,
whose gentle smile and perfect English make even his most neces-
sary visits to a villa a pleasure for the guests. Pools and some of the
maintenance jobs are covered by Joseph and his team, Roger, Nick,
and Apostolis. All of these handy guys have associations with CV
The CV Travel Corfu Team
that go back many years.
The Kassiopi Office is supported by CV’s agent, Eleni Sarakinou,
with her staff Eleni and Helen. Richard Cookson, now resident in
Corfu, continues to play an important role for CV with the compa-
ny’s contracting and photography requirements.
The moment of arrival at the airport is when the skill and deter-
mination of CV’s Airport Representatives is so appreciated. The
airport team – Tish, Lisa and Candy - is headed by Carole, who
has been shepherding people through the airport experience for
many years.
2009 sees the 37th year of operations in Corfu for CV Travel.
From a handful of properties at Nissaki and Kommeno, the pro-
gramme has expanded to number about 120 carefully selected vil-
las, for the most part along the north-east coast, from Barbati to
St Spiridon, in locations that vary between beachfront and moun-
tainside. There are a few stunning villas in the centre of the island,
amd west coast, and an entire village of restored stone houses is
to be found at Rou. From small hideaways for two to spacious vil-
las accommodating one or more families, from cosy stone conver-
sions to modern, spacious and luxurious – all CV properties have
one thing in common. They represent 37 years of commitment to
providing the best possible holiday for a loyal clientele, nearly 60%
of who return again and again.
CV Travel, Greek Islands, also has a collection of hand-picked
villas in Paxos, Lefkada, Kefalonia, Crete and Mykonos.
For further information, or to request a brochure please call
00 44 (0) 207 401 1054 or visit our website www.cvtravel.co.uk
Alternatively, please visit our Corfu office,
CV Travel, Kassiopi (next to the petrol station),
telephone 00 30 26 63 08 11 00/08 18 00
Since 1972
V9979
28 ISLAND
EAT OUT
The Rou Estate
By Susan Daltas
L unch in Corfu town can be a relaxed, holi-
day affair – next to the sea at Anemomilos,
perhaps, or under the arches at the famous
Liston, where watching the world go by is
almost as important as the meal itself.
On the other hand, it can also be, as it is for
many locals on a daily basis, an essential fea-
ture of a working day – a complete main meal
of home-cooked food washed down with local
wine, to be followed by the essential siesta in
a cool bedroom until the heat of the day has
passed.
Having been asked to write the restaurant
review for this issue of ISLAND magazine, I
spent a few joyful hours imagining a Michael
Winner type experience of haute cuisine in 5
star surroundings, with the bill being picked
up by someone else. Needless to say, real life
Angela in Corfu was never thus and being, in fact, a
lady who works rather than one who lunches,
the local taverna around the corner tempted
us inside simply because it wasn’t too far to
walk and we wouldn’t have to wait too long to
be served.
Merianos Taverna is situated on Dimoulitsas
Street, the road that leads out of San Rocco
Square towards the Psychiatric Hospital, and eventually Villa
Rossa and the airport. It is an unassuming sort of building When the plates arrived on the table we were silenced by
– just a shop front, with a simple menu displayed outside and the sheer size of the portions! Just the hunk of feta was
twice the size of the normal “tourist” portion, and we had to
basic tables and chairs, covered with the ubiquitous paper
ask for a doggy bag at the end, into which went enough beef
tablecloth of the traditional taverna. Other tables were oc-
cupied by single men (one was the local lottery ticket seller), for tomorrow’s lunch. All this, for two people, plus a large
groups of men, a mixed group of friends, and the staff were beer, bread and water, and the bill came to a mere 26 euros,
obviously all related. I’m guessing here, but I would say it and we didn’t need to eat anything for the rest of the day!
was mother and father in the kitchen and son waiting on the
tables. During our lunch, there was a steady stream of customers
for the take-out service, including a friend who wished us
On display behind the glass counter top leading into the “kali orexi” and told us “My wife’s in Athens for the week,”
kitchen was an array of tempting – huge – pots and cas- as he carried out a bag full of take-away meals.
seroles with the choice of the day. And what a choice! We
could have chosen legs of roast chicken, pastichio (macaroni An excellent lunch, served with friendly smiles in a relaxed
pie), fish “blanco”, yiouvalakia (meat and rice balls in egg atmosphere. No airs and graces, just a taste of traditional
and lemon sauce), thick and juicy hamburgers, oven baked Corfu at its best.
sardines, roast vegetables, chick-pea stew or stuffed pep-
pers and tomatoes. What we did choose was the roast beef
with potatoes accompanied by a “salad” of boiled courgettes
and potatoes, and feta cheese.
ISSUE 11 ISLAND 29
 Living room
What A Load
Of Rubbish?
Words and photographs by Katie Hutley
I
t’s not how I normally spend my Wednesday mornings.
And I have to say, in the 30 degree heat, it wouldn’t be
my first choice of something to do with any regularity.
But having visited Corfu’s waste management and recycling
plant in its top secret location (only joking... it’s in Templo-
ni), I left pleasantly surprised.
Waste disposal is a hot topic in Corfu. There can’t be anyone, resi-
dents and tourists alike, who hasn’t rolled their eyes in frustration
at seeing, once again, rubbish bins overflowing on the streets be-
cause of strikes (more of that later). Or sighing in exasperation at
seeing the blue recycling bins, containing our carefully sorted re-
cyclable rubbish, being collected by the same truck that takes away
the ‘regular’ bins. And with this in mind, I was wondering just how
closed, guarded, Andreas Grammanendis, recycling manager, and
Kostas Panaretos, technical manager of the recycling plant, would
be when I was dispatched by ISLAND to grill them on just what in
the name of Bono was going on here. Would I be
chased back out onto the streets if I mentioned
these previous... difficulties, let’s say?
Not a bit of it. In fact, Andreas brought it up
before I did, also dispelling a few urban myths.
As informed, or not, as the next person, I had al-
ways believed those uncollected bins were due
to strikes by rubbish collectors; not true. As
Andreas explained, “Of the seven or eight times
in 2008 that rubbish went uncollected, only two
of those times were because of striking rubbish
collectors. The other times were due to locals
picketing at the gates of the plant, resulting in its
closure, because of the proximity of the landfill
site to the surrounding houses... the irony being
many of those houses were built after the landfill
site was already established”. Frustrating indeed.
And what of that landfill site? Having heard ru-
mours that rubbish wasn’t being collected because the landfill site
had filled up (and the resulting – reasonable – cries of, “Didn’t they
know it would fill up? Did this come as a surprise to them?!”), it
was tentatively that I brought up the subject. Luckily, both Andreas
and Kostas – possibly because they are both relatively new to their
positions – were not only happy to speak openly on the subject, but
shared our frustrations at what had gone on.
“When the landfill site was first opened in 2002, big mistakes were
made. The proper licences weren’t applied for and the correct pro-
cedures weren’t followed, creating a lot of problems. Needless to
say, we’re not going to make those same mistakes again, and the
new landfill site, which will open in 2013-14, is going to be far more
efficient.” Investments have been made; a compressor (the lack of
which, when he took his new position, had Kostas tearing his hair
out) and a slicer have been purchased, as well as a machine which
turns organic waste into compost. This last is part of a three year
30 ISLAND
Cellar
plan which is going to make an unbelievable difference to the way
Corfu disposes of her waste; after being sorted for recyclable ma-
terials, the rubbish which makes its way to the landfill will also be
sorted, and 90% of this will be turned into compost, to be used as
fertiliser, with just the remaining 10% going to the landfill. Impres-
sive progress indeed.
But what of the here and now? Andreas and Kostas both agree
that the key factor in any recycling programme is the people
whose waste they are recycling; yet how are people supposed to
commit time and energy to a system they have no faith in? In short,
why should we bother sorting our rubbish, when the same truck
is just going to ship it all to the landfill? “This happened in the early
days for several reasons”, Andreas explains. “We had to start by
educating our own workers because, as rubbish collectors, if they
see bins overflowing on the street, their instinct
is to collect it. We tackled that, and also the fact
that we realised the key to encouraging people to
use the bins effectively is to keep them clean and
regularly emptied. We made that a major part of
our work and we were able to overcome those
particular problems. Once we had got our sys-
tem properly established, we had no more simi-
lar problems, but in 2008, the state Environmen-
tal Agency came to Corfu to take a look, as the
whole programme was originally conceived and
invested in by the state. They looked at our re-
cycling bins, which were covered with their lids
with holes for each section of recyclable material,
and ordered us to keep them open and uncov-
ered.” Uh oh. A disaster waiting to happen, sure-
ly? Just as people are starting to adjust to putting
their rubbish in its allocated place, along comes
the government to uncover the bins. It stands to
reason that people would just start throwing whatever they wanted
in the blue bins, a sort of rubbish free-for-all, right? Surprisingly,
wrong. “They felt that having to separate things so carefully, and
in the case of, say, a cardboard box to have to crush it into a small
enough size to go through the hole, discouraged people from recy-
cling, but of course when they told us to uncover the bins, we were
worried that people would just disregard the whole system. So we
were really surprised when the figures started to come through
about what people were throwing away. Of the greater volume we
were collecting with the bins open, only about 10% was being sent
to the landfill site, showing that the people who used the blue bins
had already understood the concept of recycling and were commit-
ted to using it”.
But what of those who don’t use them? Andreas estimates that
only about 20-30% of the people of Corfu are regular recyclers, and
says that about 50% of what goes in the normal green bins is actu-
ally recyclable. This is pretty disappointing, especially when you
ISSUE 11
take into account that, unlike at the recycling plant where rubbish
is sorted and unsuitable waste is sent to the landfill, the system
What Can You Do?
is not reciprocated from the other end; no sorters are employed
to send waste over to recycling, and everything that is sent to the
landfill stays there. Although the new composting technology will • Trust the blue bin system and use it effectively
help this from a landfill point of view, surely the point is to some- • Talk to your children about why you’re recycling
how make people aware that they have to do this themselves, and • Encourage bar and restaurant owners to recycle
use the system effectively for the general good? So how do they • Refuse plastic bags in shops and supermarkets –
plan to target this estimated 70-80% of people and spread the recy- AB Vasilopoulos has already implemented a
cling word? points scheme for using their reusable bags
“For me, the key to the whole concept of recycling is in the kitch-
en”, says Andreas. “If people can sort their rubbish at that stage of
the process, we will see some really effective results, and of course
the key to that is educating people. Last year we had a team who
went round to schools in Corfu town and gave talks to the children,
some of whom came to the plant on field trips. Unsurprisingly, the
younger the children were that we spoke to, the more enthusiastic
they were – I suppose teenagers have other things to worry about!
– and so we plan to continue with a publicity campaign. Not only
in schools, but also going round door-to-door to explain to people
what changes they can make in their own homes, as well as adver-
tising campaigns”. This doesn’t sound cheap, and I was wondering
how well-funded this programme was; but it turns out that with a
combination of EU grants, and a system which sees each of the
four Municipality groups the island is divided into being charged
€21 per tonne to dispose of their rubbish, the money is there. In
fact, €1.3million of the money Corfu collects in tax each year is
spent on waste disposal – quite a healthy figure.
Part of the problem of people’s reluctance to get involved could
be down to the fact that, in Greece generally as well as in Corfu,
the bigger environmental issue is not as visible, because on the
whole, Greece is not seen to be so polluted, and certainly Corfu
has no major industrial areas, or visible air pollution, for exam-
ple. Beaches and water quality are the main problems other than
waste disposal; the large hotels have standards they have to ad-
here to, but the system is not perfect and there is evidence they
don’t stick to them. Maybe that’s the reason the Greek people have
been slower to pick up the baton of recycling, because they don’t
see the reason for doing it all around them, as other parts of the
world do? Slower on the uptake maybe, but from the figures that
Andreas and Kostas showed me (see box), there is great comfort
to be derived.
Although the figures are impressive, Andreas is not sitting on his
laurels, and has huge ambitions for how he sees the programme
going. By 2013, he wants to see 10 million kilos of Corfu’s waste
being recycled, and from having spent a couple of hours with these
two people, I am fully confident that they have the ambition, drive
and – dare I use the word on such a pragmatic subject – desire
to succeed. They will keep plugging away, getting their message
across and lobbying for funding to carry out their plans until they
are satisfied. In this converted sceptic’s opinion, Corfu’s residents,
and indeed Bono himself, can all sleep soundly tonight.
Year Total Collected Rejected waste Rejection % Amount
recycled
2006 1,067,500 kilos 115,360 kilos 10% 952,140 kilos
2007 3,273,590 kilos 500,000 kilos 15.2% 2,773,000 kilos
2008 4,342,760 kilos 785, 536 kilos 18.1% 3,557,224 kilos
ISLAND 31
 Summer Decor
YOUR SUMMER
RETREAT
By Liana Staphilides
Owner of Andreadis Homestores in Corfu
Stylist for Interior Decoration magazines
T
he colours and scents of spring have given their place to
a ‘summer is in the air’ feeling, with sunny days and warm-
er nights, that are getting us out of the house more and
more, with a need to restart, refresh and renew ourselves and our
homes.
COLOUR THEMES
I personally love summer houses that are pure white, with col-
ourful accents springing up happily in each room. However, I also
adore the mix of white walls and floors with powder blue and soft
beige in the rugs, fabrics or decorative objects. And occasional-
ly, when I think of my travels, I simply cannot resist a home that
is decorated in totally tropical taste, with colours and materials
that coordinate with original hand-painted pieces of furniture, giv-
ing that bohemian look, with souvenirs collected from all over the
world. That always gives a home tons of character.
OUTDOOR ENTERTAINING
Summer is the time to revamp your outdoor space, whether it’s
a tiny veranda, or a lush garden. Think dining tables and director
chairs made of heavy duty wood, like acacia or teak wood, for can-
dlelit evening entertaining; sun loungers, for long summer days by
the pool; outdoor seating sets made of durable pvc rattan in bril-
liant white; perhaps even a wooden swing for relaxing on your ve-
randa. Team them up with pretty seating cushions in bright col-
32 ISLAND
ours, add storm lanterns or candles in glass holders and voila, the
atmosphere is complete.
Place some floor cushions in bold brights on a deck, some sea-
shell-shaped candles with pebbles in a platter, put your favourite
photos in wooden picture frames, hang wooden lanterns in the gar-
den, and you instantly change your mood from winter gloom to
summer glory.
DECORATIVE DETAILS
For an instant summer feeling inside your home, start by remov-
ing dark rugs, carpets and throws, and replacing them with hand
woven cotton, lighter ones in bright shades of yellow, green, or-
ange, pink, or neutral shades in beige, ivory and powder blue. Mix
decorative cushions in various textures and colours, to add bold
statement on sofas, beds, or wicker chairs.
Change your curtains with light feeling voile that breathes the
summer breeze. Get some fresh crisp bed sheets in vibrant mon-
ochromes or playful prints, to spruce up the look in your bed-
room .
GREEN FINGERS
It’s the perfect time of the year to visit your local garden centre
for a bit of green retail therapy. Whether you are buying for a win-
dow box or a back garden, spending a morning looking at plant va-
rieties is always inspiring.
Get lots of fresh-looking flowering plants, creating a green area
on your veranda, placing them in pretty white tin pots in various
shapes and sizes. Alternatively, use whicker baskets to show off
your summer finds on the beach, like pieces of driftwood, sea-
shells, pebbles or other paraphernalia, to give character to your
home.
ISSUE 11
KITCHEN AREA
It’s easy to bring the summer feeling into your kitchen, with col-
ourful porcelain plates and cutlery, and large handmade glasses
for long drinks and cocktails. Style them with linen runners and
napkins, add jugs with freshly made sangria, and lounge out in the
sunshine. For a special dinner outside, team linen placemats in
greys ,beiges or whites, with ceramic plates in matching colours.
A bunch of wildflowers in a simple glass bowl will complete the el-
egant look.
BATHROOM SPACE
A pure white bathroom comes alive with vibrant colour accesso-
ries and bath towels. Add a mirror made of driftwood to the wall,
and watch it turn into a relaxing spa area, with candles and sea-
shells off the beach. Alternatively, simply place a white pot with a
pink rose plant in a corner for a boudoir effect.
CLEVER IDEAS
• Create a display of mismatched crockery in shades of white and
cream on shelves above your kitchen units, or in a hallway.
• Make the most of a small kitchen, by adding banquette seating
and pretty cushions.
• Add a bold statement round your kitchen table, by mixing
different types of dining chairs, in contrasting colours.
• Intensify the glamour of a white bedroom with a brightly
coloured crystal chandelier and an ornate white mirror.
• Showcase a brightly coloured, large sized original artwork
above your bed.
• Create a vibrant living area by mixing pastel shades, and add
large plants, for that tropical feeling.
• Add a floral rug as a focal point in your kitchen or bedroom.
• Use fish shaped bowls in white or blue terracotta, to display
your summer findings, or to serve your salads and dips in.
• Interiors are all about flowers this season. Don’t be afraid to
use bold blooms around the home, whether in tablecloths, wall-
paper, rugs, cushions or a simple vase with a summer flower ar-
rangement.
NOTE:
Andreadis Homestores is now celebrating a year of life in
Corfu, and offers its customers continuous special offers
throughout the summer season.
ISLAND 33

Wendy Holborow makes regular
contributions to ISLAND magazine on
the subject of famous Greek poets.
She has also written prize-winning short
stories and poems, one of which is pub-
lished below. It won first prize at the
Aber Valley Literary Festival in 2008.
CORFU HAS SETTLED ON
ME LIKE AN OLD COAT
i between two vertebrae, or a minor problem with a small ‘facet’
Corfu has settled on me like an old coat, though
moth eaten now, and ragged
at the edges.
Once unfamiliar, fresh and new but growing into
familiarity with each fetid day.
It has become too soiled and worn and
I mourn the passing of the mornings when
I awoke to every new day’s dawn with joy
and anticipation for the blank canvas on which
to paint the panorama of my life. Now,
camera snapshots see my longing for something new.
Corfu sits heavily on my shoulders like a shroud
I want to shrug off.
I am like the clouds on mainland mountains,
sheered from view.
34 ISLAND
BACK PAIN
Written by :
Dr Alexandros Tsopelas M.R.C.G.P.
General Practitioner (UK trained)
Diploma in Dermatology, Medical Acupuncture,
Diabetes
39 Alexandras Avenue, San Rocco Square
Surgery tel. 2661024096, mob. 6945791120
B ack pain is one of the most frequent complaints and in the US
it is the largest cause of work-related absence. Back pain can
be very uncomfortable, but it is not usually serious. It can affect
anyone, regardless of age, but it is more common in people who
are between 35 and 55 years of age. About nine out of ten adults
experience back pain at some point in their life, and five out of ten
working adults have back pain every year.
Simple low back pain is the most common type. About 19 in 20
cases of acute low back pain are classed as ‘simple low back pain’.
This means that the pain is not due to any underlying problem that
can be found. In most cases the cause may be a sprain (an over-
stretch) of a ligament or muscle.
ii
In other cases the cause may be a minor problem with a disc
But if I have to leave joint between two vertebrae. Sometimes a pain may develop im-
how can I live in a land mediately after you lift something heavy, or after an awkward twist-
ing movement. Sometimes you just wake up with low back pain.
where the men don’t greet each other ‘Simple’ does not mean that the pain is mild – the pain can range
with kisses from mild to very bad. Most bouts of simple low back pain improve
though they drive you crazy at every turn quickly, usually within a week or so. However, once the pain has
gone it is common to have further bouts of pain from time to time
and traffic light? in the future. Also, it is common to have minor pains ‘on and off’ for
quite some time after an initial bad bout of pain. In a small number
And how can I live in a land of cases the pain persists for several months or longer (chronic
back pain).
without the certainty
of summer Nerve root pain is another cause of back pain. This occurs in
though it rains all winter less than 1 in 20 cases. This means that a nerve coming from the
spinal cord is irritated or pressed on. (This is often referred to
inside my house and as a ‘trapped nerve’.) You feel pain along the course of the nerve.
runs around my brain? Therefore, you may feel pain down a leg to the calf or foot, and the
pain in the leg or foot is often worse than the pain in the back. A
common example is ‘sciatica’.
If I have to leave
how can I live in a land Other less common causes of low back pain are:
where the jacaranda doesn’t bloom
Arthritis (inflammation of the joints) of the spine sometimes
in violent beauty each June causes back pain. Osteoarthritis is the common form of arthritis
and where the sun’s orange-drops and usually occurs in older people.
aren’t squeezed into the sea
Ankylosing spondylitis is another form of arthritis that can occur
and into my blood? in young adults and causes pain and stiffness in the lower back.
Rheumatoid arthritis may affect the spine, but you are likely to
have other joints affected too.
Referred pain is another cause. Pain arising from other organs
may be felt in the back. Many intra-abdominal disorders – such
as appendicitis, aneurysms, kidney diseases, bladder infections,
pelvic infections, and ovarian disorders, among others – can cause
pain to the back. Your doctor will have this in mind when evaluat-
ing your pain.
ISSUE 11
What to do:
Exercise and keep going!
With acute attacks of back pain, continue with nor-
mal activities as far as possible. This may not be pos-
sible at first if the pain is very bad. However, move
around as soon as possible, and get back into normal
activities as soon as you are able. As a rule, don’t do
anything that causes a lot of pain. However, you will have to accept
some discomfort when you are trying to keep active. In the past,
advice had been to rest until the pain eases. It is now known that
this was wrong. You are likely to recover more quickly and are
less likely to develop chronic (persistent) back pain if you keep
active when you have back pain rather than rest a lot.
Evidence suggests that the best way to prevent bouts of low back
pain is simply to keep active and to exercise regularly. This means
general fitness exercise such as walking, running, swimming etc.
There is no firm evidence to say that any particular ‘back strength-
ening’ exercises are more useful than simply keeping fit and ac-
tive.
Kill the pain
If you need painkillers, it is best to take them regularly.
You could try any of the following:
Paracetamol – usually two 500 mg tablets, four times a day.
Anti-inflammatory painkillers, like Ibuprofen or Diclofenac.
Codeine is an option if other painkillers do not suit or do not work
well, but constipation is a common side-effect. Codeine is often
taken in addition to paracetamol.
A muscle relaxant, such as Diazepam, is sometimes prescribed
for a few days if the back muscles become very tense and make
the pain worse.
You could also try physical treatments like physiotherapy and
massage.
Acupuncture for back pain
Acupuncture is a form of traditional Chinese
medicine, which involves the insertion of very
fine needles at key points (known as acupunc-
ture points) into the body. In the UK, acupunc-
ture is a popular and well-established therapy,
with approximately three million people under-
going this kind of treatment each year.
Acupuncture and especially electro-acupuncture (where the nee-
dles are attached to a device that generates continuous electric
pulses) can be very helpful in acute and chronic back pain. The
results of a recent study published in the Clinical Journal of Pain
provide further proof that acupuncture is a safe and effective pro-
cedure for chronic low-back pain, and that it can maintain positive
outcomes for periods of six months or longer without producing
the negative side-effects that often accompany more traditional
pain remedies.
The Doctor’s verdict
Even though back pain is a self-limiting illness, it can sometimes
be chronic and cause a significant amount of distress. In such
cases, a combination of exercise, medicine and acupuncture can
provide great relief and prevent further bouts of pain.
ISLAND 35
 an army faster than any enemy and destroy its morale within days. also provided the base for manufacturing soap as well as medicinal wasn’t the quantity of food that mattered but the quality of it. They

Wine &
bandages.
Vines not only supplied the Greeks with wine (mainly sweet
So what else did they eat?
versions and always consumed diluted with water) but also with
other precious ingredients. Vinegar was used widely in cooking
Of course, the people that lived on the islands and around the
would wash their newborn children in wine and their warriors
drank ‘Melana Zomo’, a mix of pig’s blood, spices and pulses. They
also ate an enormous amount of honey, as the local population still
does today. Unlike the Athenians who were heavily involved in
trading, the Spartans were just warriors, while their women were

Food of
for tenderising meat, or mixed with honey and sweet wine to pro- the ones that ruled the production and consumption of food. Spar-
coast ate more fresh seawater fish, while those on the mainland
duce a very popular sweet and sour sauce. It was also used for tan women proved to be tough workers, providing the army with
fished in rivers and lakes for crabs, fish and eels (the eels from
the preparation of ‘garos’, a fish sauce made from fermented fish everything from food to weapons. Some other regions of Greece,
Viotia were a famous delicacy, but the lake dried out hundreds of
entrails, honey, vinegar and herbs. Garos was used to spice up al- depending on whether they were enemies or allies with the major
years ago) or used smoked, salted or dried fish. In order to provide
most everything, in similar ways as we use ketchup today (original rivals Athens and Sparta, adapted their eating and drinking tradi-
a constant supply of fish even to small communities the ancient

Ancient
Indonesian Ketchup has no tomato and is a fish based sauce). tions accordingly. Other regions such as Macedonia and Epirus
Greeks made sea water or fresh water tanks. Such tanks can still
admired and imitated the Athenian way of life, but drunk far too
be seen in Ancient Thera (Santorini) or in southern Crete.
Wine was used for the treatment of internal wounds, while vin- much wine and had longer feasts. As a result, the sight of an intoxi-
egar was used for sterilizing wounds in battlefields, a tactic which cated man was considered immoral in Athens, while in the north-
On the islands, where barley and wheat grew in limited quantities,
was adopted by the Romans as a standard hygiene procedure for ern areas they had a completely different and much more lenient
people would bake bread only twice a year. Preserving the bread
any wound (remember the soldier under the cross that gave Jesus view of intoxication!

Greece
from excessive humidity was a constant problem, as were short
wood supplies for the ovens. In mainland Greece and in the Greek
cities of Asia Minor, bread baking was almost a daily task, under-
taken by the slaves. Most bread was made from barley or faro and
less from wheat, which is difficult to grow near the sea. Different
types of bread were made and flavoured with olives, goat’s cheese,
onion and herbs, such as rosemary, thyme or coriander, as well
as spices. The Greeks loved bread so much that throughout their
meals they would serve various different types. However, that was
by Antonis Lianudakis a privilege of the upper classes, while the lower ones ate mainly
Porphyra Restaurant salted barley bread.
Makrigialos-Sitia -72055
Crete-Greece ‘the sight of an intoxicated man
was considered immoral in Athens,
while in the northern areas they had
vinegar and water). Vinegar was added to water in hot summer
months to kill possible bacteria but also to give it a refreshing taste.
Grape juice was boiled, reduced in volume and used as a sweeten-
er, in similar ways that glucose syrup is used today. Finally, raisins
were given to the soldiers as an energy-enhancing snack, while
also providing warmth (when soaked in sweet wine). Even today
the Greek navy supplies its sailors with raisins in winter months.
Vine branches were used for roasting goat or mutton meat, giv-
ing the meat a unique flavour, a tradition that is still kept in Crete
today.
Spartan food
Sparta had different eating habits and traditions to the rest of
Greece. Spartans ate small portions of mainly raw food, unlike
Outside influences
Many of the ancient Greek dishes changed name or ingredients
throughout the centuries. Some others were imported to Greece
during the Classical Greek, Roman and Byzantine times from for-
eign lands, and the occupations by the Venetians and Ottoman
Empire had a huge impact too. It did not really matter where the
recipe came from; what was more important was if it fitted into the
local diet.
None of all the above influences uprooted the ancient diet the way
that today’s lifestyle does on a daily basis. Less free time for busy,
working people means less time for food preparation while fewer
and fewer restaurants still offer truly traditional, home-cooked
food. American influences in fast food and unhealthy, nutritionally

T
the Athenian tendency to Roman-style greed. They believed that it
he gastronomic habits of the ancient Greeks are little re- a completely different and much void eating habits are becoming the norm, while ancient recipes
fade into obscurity.
corded in written documents today. Any knowledge we
have on the subject is based on those few writings as well more lenient view of intoxication!’
as petrified food remains that have been found inside ancient cook-
ing equipment.

From ancient times until the late 1980s, little changed in Greek
people’s attitude towards food. Almost every island would call their
neighbouring ones ‘kseno’ (foreign), while in places like Crete that
expression even applied to the neighbouring villages. According to
ancient writings, this tendency was common throughout Greece,
hence everyone believed that the food and wine from their own
home village or island was the best.
The Greeks, Vegetarians?!
Today, visitors to Greece could be forgiven for thinking that the
Greeks were always a carnivorous sort. However, unlike what your
local big fat Greek restaurant offers today, the ancient Greeks
based their diet on fresh vegetables and pulses, such as chickpeas,
lentils and beans, which was their main protein source. Red meat
could only be eaten once or twice a month in prosperous areas,
while poorer isolated ones like the islands, had to make do with
fish, poultry and snails. Occasionally dried sausages flavoured
some vegetable dishes too.
The powerful armies of Athens, Chalkis, Corinth and later Mac-
edonia were fed on a vegetarian diet, partly because the majority of
wars and conflicts happened during the summer months, when the
weather was not an obstacle but raw food went off easily. A light
diet based on beans, chickpeas, lentils, barley and dried bread
meant the soldiers could digest their food faster (therefore an
army could be more effective in case of a sudden attack) but also
solved the problem of transporting the food and helped to prevent
illness due to poorly preserved raw food.
A war could last several months or years and the general health
of the army was considered top priority, as diseases could weaken
36 ISLAND
Pheasants, wild boar and grouse were consumed in northern
Greece, while hares, mushrooms and wild orchid bulbs were
PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION WINNER!
consumed in southern Greece. Lamb, beef and goat were seldom
eaten, as mentioned earlier, while pork was more common in all re-
CONGRATULATIONS to Samantha Selway in the UK for her photograph taken in
gions mainly because dairy and wool products cannot be produced the picturesque harbour of Kouloura. She has won €100!
from pigs, so they were reared for slaughter only. Do send your entries for our next competition in 2010
Lemons, oranges, peppers, potatoes and tomatoes reached
Greece only in the last 300 years. The most highly regarded veg-
etables were celery and leek, while the most common herb until
the 1950s was coriander. Spices used were the highly prized carda-
mom and cinnamon, followed by black pepper and cumin seeds.
Wild green salads are still popular all over the country and have
always been eaten with olive oil and salt when boiled, or with goat’s
cheese, honey and vinegar when raw. Considered for millennia as
the food of the poor, according to recent research, wild greens are
rich in minerals and vitamins and are beginning to be considered
a delicacy.
The Olive Tree & the Vine
The two main cultivations of Greece, were the olive tree and the
vine. Both require little water to grow and they played not only a
vital dietary role but also a social and political one too. The olive
tree and the vine delivered a variety of products that were not only
useful to local communities but also for trading, which provided
commercial links to other nations.
Olives were consumed at practically every meal of the day, as
a side dish and for any occasion. Of course, olive trees also sup-
plied the Greeks with precious, health-enhancing olive oil, which
was used as fuel for the lamps, as well as for eating purposes. It
ISSUE 11 ISLAND 37
 POLITICAL
the village where I live it is strong and still divisive.

In the parliamentary vote on 4 May, Costas Karamanlis narrowly

avoided the need to call for a general election, which was almost
precipitated by the scandal surrounding former Aegean Minister

PROFILE
Aristotelis Pavlidis and the alleged sale of heavily subsidized un-
commercial ferry licences. But New Democracy’s one-seat major-
ity remains vulnerable and an election now or later might well see
voters who have traditionally supported ND or PASOK transfer-
ring their allegiance to some of the smaller parties on the right
or left, including the newly-formed ‘Drasis’, headed by former ND
minister Stefanos Manos, and including the controversial Yanni
Boutari.
by Richard Pine
‘the holy trinity of
ISLAND extols the beauties of Corfu’s landscape and culture. So
why would its editors want to include anything as serious as a po-
Greek graft: cash,
litical page? Well, think for a moment about Corfu’s history – its
embrace of Italian art, music, cuisine, literature, which made it a
cosmopolitan society when Athens was still a village under Turk-
property and
ish rule. Think of what the word polis means: the city, the place to
which politics is central. Think of economy, oikonomia, the rules of
the Church’
the household, which extends to the way people organize them-
selves not only financially but also socially and culturally.
I know and like Yanni Boutari, winemaker extraordinaire and
generous sponsor of the Arcturos sanctuary for endangered wild
By definition, we live in the homeland not only of philosophy but
and circus bears – he has spoken eloquently on both subjects at
also of war and peace, debate, law-making and aesthetics (aisthe-
the Durrell School. Whether or not he can translate his undoubted
tike) – the way we perceive the world. So this column, and maybe
skills from the sphere of local politics (he was nearly appointed
later columns under this heading, will try to draw a picture of how
mayor of Thessaloniki) to the national arena I don’t know. Maybe
non-Greeks might approach the political issues that preoccupy the
he should stick to wine-making and bear-hugging. But the fact that
people among whom we live.
he and others are trying to break the mould of the national po-
litical establishment is an encouraging sign and should alert us to
Perhaps those of us who are not Greeks, and who have come
the fact that, win or lose, they represent a centre-politics move for
to live in Corfu for some or all of the year, tend to take Corfu and
change.
Greece for granted. Corfu gives us a variable, temperate climate,
Yannis Sinies Market offers a full range of relatively inexpensive living, and an historic cultural background
What it would mean if one or more minor parties were to hold
groceries, fresh fruit & vegetables, eclipsing almost anything in the rest of modern Greece. And when
the balance of power in a hung parliament remains to be seen.
homemade dips, organic food, fresh local we discuss local affairs with Corfiots we are immediately im-
The knock-on effect might generate a new sense of direction in
bread and newspapers & magazines. pressed by the huge differences of perception of history, politics,
Greece’s thinking about the economy, the trade unions, education,
Fresh meat and fish available to order 24 laws and customs between here and the mainland.
class distinctions, the diaspora, public administration, and external
hours in advance. relations (especially with Turkey, Albania, Macedonia and Cyprus).
Specialising in fine wines and champagnes. But we would be very unwise to turn off our antennae in respect
Greece’s importance in the Balkans is already being questioned
FREE local delivery. of Greek politics today. We live in a very fragile democracy, a coun-
by the USA’s coolness towards this country in favour of Turkey,
(0030) 26630 29230 / 6978 206815 try largely in dismay at the paralysis of the administrative system,
which is a difficult nut for Dora Bakoyannis to crack. As a key EU
the urgent need for reform of secondary and third-level education,
garnelis@corfuvillas.info member, a sea-change for Greece, even if short-lived, might be
the unattractiveness of the two main political parties, and the cur-
very significant. Watch this space.
rent major corruption scandals – four of them. As the Athens-Plus
journalist Nick Malkoutzis puts it, there is a ‘holy trinity of Greek
Looking for the wow factor? Luxury villas for graft: cash, property and the Church’. Dismay, because it seems
Richard Pine is Director Emeritus of the Durrell School of Corfu; he
rent! that no-one knows how to solve these problems or to ensure that
writes in a personal capacity.
they do not recur.
Situated on the exclusive north-east coast,
Villa Alkmini and Garnelis’ House are the I would be the first person to assert that, unless we have a vote in
perfect holiday getaways for those who national elections, we should not air our views too loudly and cer-
like a little luxury and glamour. A short walk tainly should not harbour grievances against these manifestations
through the olive groves away from the fan- of our host country. But at the same time, if we are not aware of
tastic beaches of Ag.Stefanos and Kerasia. them, we are not aware of the society within which we have chosen
Beautifully landscaped gardens, perfectly to live. After all, we are not on permanent holiday, and our property,
peaceful surroundings, huge swimming standard of living and status may be affected by political change.
pools with Jacuzzi, BBQ areas, air-condition-
ing, satellite TV, and elegant décor through- When I visited Greece for the second time during the military
out. Perfectly located for local amenities. junta of 1967-74, the relationship between politics and society was
obviously – painfully – intimate and intricate. Greece has never
www.corfuvillas.info been happy with its governments. There is a civil war legacy still
garnelis@corfuvillas.info haunting the corridors of power and the mindsets of Greeks eve-
(0030) 26630 29230 / 6978 206815 rywhere, Corfu included. The highly visible presence of KKE in
parliament and in society at large is one part of that legacy, and in

38 ISLAND ISSUE 11 ISLAND 39

 OST IN TRANSLATION!
L
There is so much scope for amusement in other
people’s linguistic mistakes, so each issue we publish the
ones that made us chortle! No names mentioned...
“Whilst looking over a potential rental property a few years back I ran my hands over the
slightly grubby paintwork thoughtfully and asked the landlord if he would be prepared to
baptise it (μπορείς να το βαπτίσεις:/boris na to vaptisis?) before we moved in. I suppose I
should have asked him to paint it (μπορείς να το βάψεις;/boris na to vapsis?) instead…”
“A group of girls and I were walking past a group of young men, who were
sitting and smoking outside a café, and they yelled out to us ‘Geia sas ko-
ritsia’ (Hello girls). So I decided to turn around and yell back at them, say-
ing ‘Hello boys’ (Geia sas agoria) in Greek. Except, what I said was ‘Hello
CUCUMBERS!’ (Geia sas aggouria) Needless to say, there were some snickers.”
A piece of Greek wisdom
“Από την πόλη έρχομαι, και στην κορφή κανέλα”
Apo tin poli erhome, ke stin korfi kanela
“I’m coming from town, and on the mountain-top cinnamon”
A surreal turn of phrase used to describe lack of communication.
40 ISLAND
and subtle mixed media studies depict the Greek and especially
Gallery
the rural Corfiot lifestyle and surroundings. She creates under the
name of ‘Pondiki’, which means ‘mouse’ in Greek! Ann’s varied ca-
reer in the UK included several years managing a specialist artists’
materials retail outlet, among other creative ventures.
Since moving to Corfu, Rod has also developed his carpentry
188
skills – so much so that he has been commissioned several times
over the last few years to produce bespoke furniture, including
cabinets, beds, tables, chairs and a complete kitchen. He has also
become very adept at restoring cassellas – the traditional dowry
chests – which locals, and ex-pats are now realising are of histori-
cal and cultural value. Combining their skills, the couple also make
A
n art gallery is the last thing distinctive bespoke business signs for tavernas, shops and apart-
ments.
one would expect to find in the  
sleepy mountain village of Lakones. “So far,” Ann says, “we have been very happy living here, despite
some ups and downs which occur regardless of where one lives. I
Mia Daltas finds out more from husband think the main things we enjoy about life here is the ‘safeness’ one
feels and the wonderful nature of the Corfiot people. We count
and wife artists Rod and Ann McCance. ourselves very lucky living in Lakones where we have been easily
accepted into the community and have made many friends.”
Rod and Ann McCance moved to Corfu in January 2003, having
visited the island (along with other Greek islands) over the previ-
Galler y 188 is open all year round. For current opening
ous ten years. They had been thinking of relocating to a warmer
hours or to make an appointment, please contact Rod and
climate and changing their lifestyle for several years and Corfu
Ann McCance.
was their number one choice.
Galler y 188, Lakones Village (just off the square), Corfu,
49083. Tel: +30 26630 49094
It was a combination of reasons that drove the McCances to
Mobile: +30 6947 577390
make such a drastic move.  Ann’s father spent most of his career
e-mail: info@galler y188corfu.com
in the forces, so she was used to living in hot places (including
www.galler y188corfu.com
Gibraltar and the Far East) and travelling backwards and forwards
to the UK. Rod comes from a similar background and spent quite
some time travelling in his younger day. “Basically,” explains Ann,
“we both have itchy feet! Combined with a growing disillusionment
regarding the way of life in the UK, not to mention the weather,
it wasn’t a difficult decision to make! We did our homework and
plotted for about two years before returning to Corfu in September
2002 for a ‘make our minds up’ holiday and to start looking for a
house to buy.”
After viewing a few properties, they took the decision and bought
number 188, Lakones village, on the west coast, above Palaiokas-
tritsa. The property hadn’t been occupied for about 30 years and
the couple had a real race on their hands to get it into a livable
state. Having restored a number of period properties in Scotland,
they were ready for the challenge of one last renovation project.
“Most of the local builders that we asked just wanted to rip it all out
and make it modern,” says Ann. “We didn’t want that, as the house
was over 200 years old and retained a lot of the original features. So
we ended up doing most of the work ourselves and looking back,
especially at the photographs we took along the way, we now know
ourselves to be completely crazy!”
The McCances thought the house a good background in which to
display their work and abilities, as well as letting visitors see what
a traditional house is like inside. They also hoped that the move to
Corfu would enable them to make a living doing the things they
enjoy, rather than working to exist and not having much time to
indulge their artistic pursuits. So, Gallery 188, where the couple’s
combined work is displayed, came into being.
Rod is actually the great nephew (& former pupil) of the re-
nowned Scottish artist William McCance and his wife Agnes Miller
Parker; one of the finest illustrators and wood engravers of the
20th century. Following a career in design engineering, Rod started
painting and sculpting on a full-time basis and has exhibited in ma-
jor galleries throughout Scotland and London. His colourful work,
which encapsulates the vortistic style of the 1920s and 30s, can
be found in collections throughout Europe as well as in the USA,
Canada, Mexico and of course, in his native Scotland.
In contrast to her husband’s work, Ann’s delicate watercolours
ISSUE 11 ISLAND 41
ISLAND ROSES
SUMMER GARDEN
S ummer already – but what a
glorious spring we have had.
All over the island the wisteria has
never been so lavishly beautiful, es-
pecially with the Judas trees in flow-
er at the same time.
My bare and desolate banks, where
the fire of two summers ago did its
worst, were transformed into a sea
of feathery green and gold – a sort
of cow parsley. Another – most wel-
come – visitor has been a similarly
acid yellow Euphorbia – E. spinosa,
I think.
I have been collecting seed heads
for years, whenever I see a clump
by the roadside, hoping they would
naturalise, but no luck, until now.
Now I hope they will be permanent
fixtures. They are much neater and
sturdier than their cow parsley-type
neighbours and also good in flower
arrangements, but you must singe
the stems over a flame. Like all their
tribe, the stems exude a poisonous
milky juice. Hold the stalks over a
flame – a gas ring works well – until
it sizzles and dries. They will then
stay quite fresh for over a week.
Top dressing Bracken is out now
and this makes a particularly good
chopped up top dressing – quite
weed-proof and providing some nec-
essary acidity which this strongly
alkaline soil conspicuously lacks. I
never spray my roses – there just
isn’t the time to cope with sickly
plants and I would be battling against
Nature.
Now the hollyhocks are taking
over and they can seed themselves
as lavishly as weeds, all grown from
seed heads I collected from plants
growing wild on a hillside. The
common magenta pink is the most
usual which I cut down or root out
as I don’t like the colour. But there
are some beautiful pale pinks as well
as white (very special), white with a
pink eye, and a rich dark red.
I always collect some seeds of the
more attractive colours to roll down
the banks or any bare patches. They
come in neat little pouches – easily
stored and recognized. On good soil,
42 ISLAND ISSUE 11
where they might get some water-
ing, they can grow to quite spectacu-
lar heights.
Roses These are now out in force,
but the heat soon gets them down
and some of my bigger shrub varie-
ties seem almost already over. Bet-
ter to give them a light pruning, or
at least a regular dead-heading, and
look forward to the great autumn
re-flowering after the first late sum-
mer rains, making sure the ground
around them is weed-free and heavi-
ly mulched with compost, shredding
and leaf sweepings.
Wild flowers The main indige-
nous wild flower out now is Broom
(Σπάρτα) clothing the hillside with
sheets of bright yellow. The sweet
pea-like – and similarly scented
– rounded bushes, seem to go all
the way down to the sea – especially
good from Kassiopi and northwards.
One used to be able to buy kilos of
seeds from the agricultural depart-
ments to scatter over one’s new or
barren property. I wonder if this is
still possible?
Roses vs Conifers My garden is
full of cypress trees and long ago
at Chelsea a rosarian told me that
roses disliked conifers nearby. The
fire which destroyed all the huge
border cypress trees has brought to
life three wonderful climbers plant-
ed along the boundary fence – long
ago forgotten and invisible and now
full of life and vigour with the potash-
rich soil.
The Ivy Solution. Every garden
has bare spaces which need ground
cover, especially on newly-cleared
sites where there may be difficult
M.H.
and steep areas, possibly border-
ing on a driveway. Ivy is the solution
here: it will climb up or scramble
down, rooting as it grows and pre-
venting minor landslides after heavy
rain, and once established can be
sheared back to base if it becomes
too rampageous. It will cover flat ar-
eas equally well of course and here
you can add some variegated, cream
or gold splashed species. It will also
scramble up trees at the first oppor-
tunity and if you don’t want this, sim-
ply snip it off at the base.
In more obviously garden areas, a
prostrate Juniper does the job very
handsomely. It will in time build up
a carpet of low arching green-grey
branches and is known as Juniperus
horizontalis. I planted one bought
locally five years ago on a flat bank
with very poor soil and it now covers
an area almost two meters in diam-
eter.
Periwinkle (see image to left)
This rapid carpeter will very quickly
cover difficult slopes or just places
you don’t want the coarser weeds to
take over. You can have it either with
plain dark green leaves or a pretty
variegated cream and green. Both
have the same pretty light blue flow-
ers. The leaves can make a benefi-
cial – but bitter – healthy tisane.
Violets are slow growing but will
in time make neat dark green cover
on bare patches or between plants,
even in deep shade.
Finally, what about using the deli-
cious little local strawberry to fill
gaps? They do need watering in
order to fruit well, but a light daily
spray in hot weather is enough and
not a weed will penetrate.
The Perfect Glove I have found
the perfect gardening glove, strong,
flexible and in all sizes. Showa is the
brand, ‘assembly grip’ gloves from
Vietnam available from Rania’s of
Gouvia, the hardware store below
Diellas and next to the ER-Laz glass
people. At €3.50, you can afford a
new pair a day for the price of a cof-
fee on the Liston.
ISLAND 43

Girl
about
e
l a g
v i l
town
Take My Mother-in-Law...
B
efore you get excited, I have not been withholding the glad
tidings of any Village Girl nuptials. Believe you me, read-
ers, friends, should Village Girl be taking a stroll down the
aisle any time soon, you would be the first to know. No, it’s just
that the other day, I got to thinking about the Greek habit of refer-
ring to your boyfriend’s mother as your ‘pethera’, the same word
they use for Mother-in-law. It always gave me a start when people
would refer to my mother-in-law – as if I had accidentally married
one day without noticing it. Those back home would, of course, be
even more startled when I used the same term. My ability to sur-
prise my loved-ones with unexpected news is legendary, and sev-
eral times I had previously potential bridesmaids wiping away the
tears, before I could explain that I hadn’t actually ‘done the deed’,
but was just increasing my ever-expanding grasp of Gringlish.
An alternative title to this column would be ‘Mother-in-Laws I
Have Known’. In research for these scribblings, I made a mental
inventory of the various women who have held that title in my
life. Wow. What a bunch they have been. Like snowflakes, each
one unique – and in the case of some them, such an icy simile
would be scarily appropriate. Especially in the case of my rela-
tionships since moving to Greece, the word that springs to mind
would have to be...formidable. A far cry from my first boyfriend’s
mother, way back when in England; the lovely Jill. Ah, Jill. How
this tiny, eccentric little bundle of energy managed to produce two
such strapping lads was a mystery to me, until she took to me in
her own unique way, a way which resulted in our first meeting
ending in burning sausage rolls (her), falling over in the kitchen
(me), and a rowdy and none-too-articulate end-of-the-evening ren-
dition of The House of the Rising Sun (both of us, accompanied
by the boyfriend’s father on guitar, while boyfriend sat watching,
aghast, in the corner).
But as everyone knows, puppy love is fleeting, and that relation-
ship soon came to an end. Fast forward a few years to my first
Greek relationship. Having met while I was on a visit to Thessa-
loniki, Man-Rat (as my friends named him, the behaviour of the
Greek male species being a mystery to them, and indeed myself,
at this time) soon invited me to stay with him in Athens. Again,
being unfamiliar with the Greek way of doing things, I was expect-
ing this employed 25 year old to have his own apartment, a mis-
apprehension I was blissfully unaware of until waking up on the
first morning at his house by a knock on the bedroom door. “Oh
God, it’s my mother. She wants to meet you”, he groaned. Thank-
ful the door was locked, I was in no such hurry. Of course, the
moment of truth finally came when Man-Rat got up to go to the
bathroom, leaving the door unlocked. Before you could say “I do”,
she was in the room, brandishing a tray of coffee and orange juice.
Yours truly, not possessing a word of Greek, sat bolt upright in
44 ISLAND
bed, clutching sheets to preserve my modesty, while she came
and sat beside me, beaming from ear to ear, and offered me a
δ
cigarette. Not knowing the etiquette about smoking in bed the
first time you meet your pethera (I must have missed that sec-
tion in Debrett’s), I took a cigarette, and that was how Man-Rat
found us, sitting side by side on the bed, me smoking like my life
To IMARCHIO
RESTAURANT
depended on it, and her smiling at me like her face was going to
break. He stood in the door and uttered an expletive that the good
people at ISLAND wouldn’t dream of printing, before she let forth
a babble of words which were, to me, incomprehensible. “What’s
she saying?” I asked, panic in my voice. With an acute embarrass- TOWN HALL SQUARE, CORFU
ment which almost makes me look back on him fondly, he had to
explain to me that his mother’s appraisal of me, from those first TEL: 26610 39031
excruciating two minutes, was that I was healthy and beautiful
and we were in turn going to produce strong, healthy beautiful
OPEN ALL DAY,
boys. Not quite sure of the appropriate response to that, I carried
on smoking, smiling and nodding. Which, to be honest, was pretty 7 DAYS A WEEK,
much the extent of our familial relationship.
FOR LUNCH
Then came the move to Greece, and with it, the acquisition of AND DINNER
a smattering of Greek with which to conduct these relationships.
Now, I’m not saying that ignorance is bliss, but it does seem to
me that, when it comes to meeting your classic Greek pethera,
having the means of communication with her actually amounts to
little more than providing someone with the rope with which to
hang themselves. There is always the question of ‘sas’ and ‘sou’. An elegant café &
With my ex, I knew his mother before I knew him – impossible restaurant in the
not to know her in the village with her... how can I put this respect-
fully? Active social life? The less said about that in print, the better. picturesque heart
Anyway, having known her and used the informal ‘sou’, I was all of old Corfu town.
at sea when she suddenly became my pethera. Social convention
dictates that she should have been addressed AT ALL TIMES in
the plural; but this was a woman I’d burned the midnight oil and Modern Mediterranean &
drunk the bar dry with. How could I suddenly switch from the one
to the other? And as for her husband, he is not only a lovely man, Greek menu, with a daily
but a very respectable and responsible pillar of the community
type character, whom, even if I’d have known him one hundred
changing menu and Italian
years, it would still feel natural to address in the polite form. This influenced dishes.
made mealtimes with the in-laws a nightmare, a minefield of me
trying to think of things to say without having to address either of We specialise in fresh fish
them directly, and thereby insulting one or the other. and seafood.
Which brings us to the present day. Having been seeing some-
one for a few months, but certainly not in an official, parent-meet- Enjoy the very special
ing kind of way, I was invited the other night to go to the cinema
with his parents. Again, I was in the position of knowing his father setting, for memorable
previously (an inevitable factor of village life), but I had never met meals or coffee, whether in
his mother. And, having had the fear of God put into me by various
‘do-gooders’ about what a formidable (that word again) woman she our idyllic outdoor dining
was, I was, naturally, terrified. The night didn’t get off to a good
start. Having acted casually, cool as a cucumber even, at the mo-
area or in our atmospheric
ment of being invited, I ran into the other room to send my friend dining room.
a message updating her on the news. The family being quite well-
to-do, I wrote “Might be going to the cinema with his Lord and
Ladyship tonight. Am terrified”. I pressed send. And I could only
look in utter, utter horror, as I realised that I had sent the message
to Man Of The Moment. So much for cool as a cucumber. After “This restaurant delivers
much mortification on my behalf, and mockery on his, we left the on all levels”
house to go to the cinema. The actual meeting itself went reason-
ably well, until I, being left on my own with said Pethera, turned
the conversation to cooking. I was proud because, lately, MOTM ISLAND MAGAZINE
has been on a health kick, and I’ve been able to impress him with
all manner of healthy stir-fry style creations. I was telling her of
my most recent creation, and how I like using frozen vegetables
rather than fresh, as they are picked at the moment of freshness
and retain all that goodness until cooked with, when I noticed her
face changing from one of polite interest, to one of disdain, at the
thought of my feeding her darling boy frozen vegetables. Taking
a long drag on her cigarette, and looking me up and down, she
moved in, and with a look that will stay with me until my dying day,
spoke the last words she would address to me that evening: “I only
cook with fresh”. Conversation over. Ho hum. And so it begins...
ISSUE 11 ISLAND 45
ISLAND DIRECTORY / CLASSIFIEDS
classifieds
CLASSIFIEDS useful NumbERS
uSEFuL numbers Essential NumbERS
ESSENTIAL numbers

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or call: 6942 253 192 / enquiries@rivendell.gr
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DURRELL SCHOOL OF CORFU: LIBRARY the Nineteenth Century. Afra,
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Wednesdays 10-12.30. fic-
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Open Wednesdays 10-12.30. VILLA SECURITY & MAINTENANCE CORFU INSURERS
INSURERS & & CONSULTANTS
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26610-21326 / durrells@otenet.gr English
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26610-21326 / durrells@otenet.gr more than 25 years of
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0030 694 076 9020 s.vartholomeos@gmail.com
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