Wave Analysis

Short Term and Long Term Analysis

Introduction
Short term analysis:

www.av
viso.oseanobs.c
com

analyse

of wave that
occurs within one
wave train

Long term analysis

derivation

off statistical
distributions that cover
many years

0.04
0.03

Water Levell (m)

0.02
0 01
0.01
0
-0.01
-0.02
-0.03
-0.04
0

10

15

Time (sec)

20

25

30

Wind Wave correlation

Significant wave height and
wind speed are shown in
July 2007, units are metres
and metres per second
respectively. These figures
highlight the relationship
between wind speed and
g
wave height:
g the
significant
faster the wind, the highest
the waves.The lowest waves
(dark blue) are mainly in
tropical and subtropical
oceans, where the smallest
wind speed are recorded.
www.aviso.oceanobs.com/en/applications/atmospherewind-and-waves/wind-and-waves/seasonalvariations/index.html

Why collect wave data?

Monitoring of coastal processes

such as beach erosion and
sediment transport.
Baseline design
g statistics for
coastal projects.
Operational assistance in coastal
construction projects.
Monitoring of severe weather
conditions.
O
Oceanographic
hi research.
h
(Manly Hydraulic Lab : http://mhl.nsw.gov.au/)

How to measured wave?

Use wave recorder : i.e:

Wave staffs

Wave rider / wave buoy

e.g : www.civiltek.com

S t llit images
Satellite
i

e.g:
g www.datawell.nl

Pressure sensor

e.g: www.oceansensorsystem.com
t

e.g : GFO (Geosat Follow On)

Place wave recorder in deepwater (>0

(>0.5L)
5L)
Record wave height, period and direction (duration 15 60)
Links : http://cdip.ucsd.edu,
p
p
http://mhl.nsw.gov.au/,
p
g
etc
Assignment 2 : Find more info on wave recorder (product detail, vendors, measurement
and analysis methods, etc)

Typical wave recorder

www.datawell.nl

TRITON-ADV
www.sontek.com

www.civiltek.com

www.oceansensorsystem.com

AWAC
www.nortek.com
http://www.scienceprog.com/wp-content/uploads/2007i/Ocean_embedded/wave_heigh_measurement.jpg

Typical recorded samples

File created by: WAVELOG on 12/11/2006 1:53:28 AM
Device: Model 730W_CTP
Serial No: 17528
File Type: WAVE STATS
Operating Mode: Wave Burst
Contract Reference: None
Site Reference: None
Location Latitude: None
Location Longitude: None
Setup by: None
User Info: NO SITE INFORMATION
Pressure Calibration: P = 1:RPT200-1791,3500,35,958161,1,040897
T
Temperature
t
Calibration:
C lib ti
T = 12 +3.7484500e-10
+3 7484500 10 +1
+1.7482800e-03
7482800 03 +1
+1.0768100e-01
0768100 01
Conductivity Calibration: C = 13 +3.8447599e-13 -9.6605406e-09 +3.0098500e-03 -7.8249698e-02
File Number: 0
Sample Rate: 0.4
Density: 1025.97
Gravity: 9.807
Instrument Height: 0
Trigger Level: 0
Wave Data Save Trigger Level: 0
Tide Burst Duration (secs): 600
Tide Cycle Time (secs): 1200
Wave Burst Duration (secs): 5119.99992370606
Wave Cycle Time (secs): 1200
Speed of sound formula Chen & Millero
Pressure
essu e formula:
o ua 1
Hs
Hmax
Date
Time
Tp
E
m(U)
m(U)
Secs
N.m(U)^2.m^-3
9/12/2006 12/9/06 23:16
0.0134
0.0210
0.1125224
0.0224
0.0352
9/12/2006 12/9/06 23:36
0.3157163
9/12/2006
23:56:15
0.0139
0.0218
0.1213013
0.0117
0.0184
10/12/2006
0:16:15
8.65E-02
10/12/2006
0:36:15
19647.13 meragukan
10/12/2006
0:56:15
0.0165 4.413793
0.0258
0.170476
0.0168 4.129032
0.0263
10/12/2006
1:16:15
0.1766452
10/12/2006
1:36:15
4.129032
11155.82 meragukan
10/12/2006
1:56:15
0.0144 4.129032
0.0226
0.1302911
0.0125 4.129032
0.0196
10/12/2006
2:16:15
9.84E-02
10/12/2006
2:36:15
0.0046
0.0073
1.35E-02
0.0136 4.129032
0.0213
10/12/2006
2:56:15
0.1155402
10/12/2006
3 16 15
3:16:15
0 0134 3.657143
0.0134
3 657143
0 0210
0.0210
0 1127914
0.1127914
10/12/2006
3:36:15
0.0128 3.878788
0.0201
0.1033529
0.0215 42.66667
0.0338
10/12/2006
3:56:15
0.2907289
10/12/2006
4:56:15
0.0111 3.878788
0.0174
7.75E-02
0.0111 3.878788
0.0174
10/12/2006
5:16:15
7.71E-02

Triton Webinar

Typical Analysis Results

www.sontek.com
www.datawell.nl

Terms

Ensemble of Three Realizations

0 .0 4

Realization

Representative record at
particular time range

0 .0 3

Water Le
evel (m)

0 .0 2
0 .0 1
0
-0 .0 1
-0 .0 2
-0 .0 3

Ensemble

-0 .0 4
0

10

15

20

25

30

T im e (s e c )

0 .0 4

0 .0 3
Water Level (m)

Compilation of several
realization
Each
E h ensemble
bl h
has
parameters such as mean,
standard deviation,
skewness, kurtosis, etc

0 .0
02
0 .0 1
0
-0 .0 1
-0 .0 2
-0 .0 3
-0 .0 4
0

10

15

20

25

30

T im e (s e c )

0 .0
04
0 .0 3
Wa
ater Level (m)

0 .0 2
0 .0 1
0
-0 .0 1
-0 .0 2
-0 .0 3
-0 .0 4
0

10

15
T im e (s e c )

20

25

30

Stationary

none of the ensembles

parameter (z) vary in time
exp:
2a = 2b = 2c
a = b = c
3a = 3b = 3c
4a = 4b = 4c

0 .0 3

Water Lev
vel (m)

0 .0 4

0 .0 2
0 .0 1
0
-0 .0 1
-0 .0 2
-0 .0 3
-0 .0 4
0

10

15

20

25

30

T im e (s e c )

0 .0 4

0 .0 3
Water Level (m)

Terms

0 .0
02
0 .0 1
0
-0 .0 1
-0 .0 2
-0 .0 3

-0 .0 4

ErgodicTime
zk ( a ) + zk ( b ) + zk ( c )

3
harus sama
1 1 K N
zk =
zk ( j )

K N k =1 j =1

10

15

20

25

30

T im e (s e c )

zk =

0 .0
04

Wa
ater Level (m)

0 .0 3

0 .0 2
0 .0 1
0
-0 .0 1
-0 .0 2
-0 .0 3
-0 .0 4
0

10

15

20

25

30

T im e (s e c )

Short Term Analysis

Height of waves () are random

Impossible to predict exact value of at any time
or location
Probability that has a certain value is called
PDF ((Probabilityy Density
y Function),
), p()).
p() can be described by normal distribution.
2
1
p ( ) =
exp 2 ,
2
2

1
=
N
2

j =1

2
j

Short Term Analysis

Assumed that H = 2max, then PDF for H

(P b bilit th
(Probability
thatt H h
has a certain
t i value)
l )
H 2
H2
p( H ) =
exp 2
2
4
8

Rayleigh Distribution

Short Term Analysis

contd

contd

The Cumulative Distribution Function (CDF) of wave

height: probability that any individual wwave height H
H is
less than a specified wave height H

H 2
H 2
H2
exp 2 dH = 1 exp 2
P( H ' < H ) =
2
4
8
8
0
H

The Probability of Exceedance : the probability that any

individual wave of height H
H is greater than a specified
wave height H :

H 2
Q( H ' > H ) = 1 P( H ' < H ) = exp 2
8

Short Term Analysis

contd

1
0.9

(H
H).p(H), P, Q

0.8
0.7

Cumulative
Distribution Function

0.6

Rayleigh Distribution

0.5

(H).p(H)

0.4
0.3

0.2

Probabilityy of
Exceedance

01
0.1
0
0

H/Sigma

Short Term Analysis

contd

Wave height with Probability of Exceedance Q:

1
H Q = 8 ( ln Q) = 2 2 ln
Q
2

1
=
N
2

j =1

2
j

Short Term Analysis

contd
cont
d

Short Term Analysis

contd

Example 3.1 Calculation of Short-Term

Short Term Wave Heights

To analyze a wave record it must be stationary. Hence, it is normal

to record waves for relatively short time durations (10 to 20
minutes). A longer record would not be stationary because wind
and water level variations would change the waves. Thus it is usual
to record, for example, 15 minutes every three hours. It is
subsequently
b
tl assumed
d th
thatt th
the 15 min.
i record
d iis representative
t ti off
the complete three hour recording interval.

S
Suppose
the
th analysis
l i off such
h a record
d yields
i ld
T = 10 sec

and

= 1.0 m

We want to calculate significant wave height Hs, average wave

height H , average of the highest 1% of the waves H 0.01
, and the
maximum wave height in the record.

Short Term Analysis

contd

Long Term Analysis

Purpose :
To

organise wave height data

To extrapolate data set to extreme values of
wave height occuring at low probability of
exceedance

Methods
Statistical

Analysis
y of g
grouped
p wave data
Extreme Value Analysis from ordered data

Grouped wave data

4.5
(4)
4

Nov 01 - Nov 30, 1983

3.5

Wav
ve Heigh
ht (m)

(5)

(2)
(1)

Ht = 1.5 m

2.5
(3)
2

(6)

(8)

(7)

15
1.5
1
05
0.5
0
0

100

200

300

400

500

600

Time (hrs from Nov 01, 0:00, 1983)

700

800

Grouped wave data

contd

Data iin the

D
h lleft
f table
bl obtained
b i d
from 34,9 years of record.
= number of data points / yr
= 282306 / 34.9 = 8089
= 2738 / 34.9

Grouped wave data

= 78.45

contd

P = P( H ' H )
1019
= 0.372
2738
1019 + 549
P( H ' 2.00) =
= 0.573
2738
738
1019 + 549 + 382
P( H ' 2.25) =
= 0.712
2738
Q = Q( H ' > H ) = 1 P
P( H ' 1.75) =

Curveline is difficult to interpolate! transformed into straightline

Curve Transformation

Norm al Distribution

Cumulative Distribution Function

Normal Probability Distribution

Transferred to:
Log-Normal Probability
Distribution

Log Normal Distribution

Gumbel Distribution

Gumbel Distribution
Weibul Distribution

Weibull Distribution
y=A.x + B

Distribution Models

sH
H
and

= standard deviation,
= mean wave height
h i ht
= Weibull and Gumbel Parameter
= lower limit of H = threshold value in a Peak over Threshold data set

Probability Table

Normal Distribution Curve

z = -3.4 P = 3.37 x 10-4

z = +3.4
3.4 P =1
1 - 3.37 x 10-4
10 4
= 0.999663
In Excel : NORMINV

P = 3.37 x 10-4

z = -3.4
z =0

(1)
H

(2)
N

(3)
P

(4)
Q

(5)
z

(6)
ln H

(7)
G

1.75
2 00
2.00
2.25
2.50
2.75
3 00
3.00
3.25
3.50
3.75
4.00
4.25
4.50
4.75
5.00
5.25
5.50
5 75
5.75
6.00
Total

1019
549
382
254
174
113
81
60
40
27
19
10
4
2
1
2
0
1
2738

0.372
0 573
0.573
0.712
0.805
0.869
0 910
0.910
0.939
0.961
0.976
0.986
0.993
0.996
0.998
0.99854
0.99890
0.99963
0 99963
0.99963
1.00000

0.628
0 427
0.427
0.288
0.195
0.131
0 090
0.090
0.061
0.039
0.024
0.014
0.007
0.004
0.002
0.00146
0.00110
0.00037
0 00037
0.00037
0.000

-0.326
0 183
0.183
0.560
0.859
1.119
1 339
1.339
1.550
1.766
1.976
2.190
2.442
2.683
2.849
2.976
3.063
3.378
3 378
3.378

0.560
0 693
0.693
0.811
0.916
1.012
1 099
1.099
1.179
1.253
1.322
1.386
1.447
1.504
1.558
1.609
1.658
1.705
1 749
1.749

0.012
0 584
0.584
1.081
1.528
1.959
2 359
2.359
2.772
3.232
3.713
4.244
4.916
5.611
6.122
6.528
6.816
7.915
7 915
7.915

(8)
W
=0.8
0.384
0 816
0.816
1.316
1.848
2.421
2 996
2.996
3.627
4.366
5.176
6.105
7.326
8.638
9.632
10.436
11.014
13.276
13 276
13.276

(9)
W
=1.3
0.555
0 883
0.883
1.184
1.459
1.723
1 964
1.964
2.210
2.477
2.750
3.044
3.406
3.769
4.031
4.234
4.377
4.910
4 910
4.910

X in Distribution Models : [1], [6]

Y in Distribution Models : [5], [7], [8], [9]

Extrapolation

The Exceedence Probability of one event in TR

years :

Extreme Value Analysis

If only few major events are known

Limited number of extreme events

Method
Rank the data in decreasing order
Calculate Probability of Exceedence (Q)
i c1
Q=
N + c2

= ranking of the data point

N
= total number of points
c1
c1, c2 = constants for unbiased plotting position

Calculate Probability (P)

Calculate Reduced Variate (z
(z, W
W, G)

Constant for Unbiased Plotting

Distribution
Normal
Log
g Normal
Gumbel
Weibull

c1
0.375
0.250
0.440
0 2 + 0.27
0.2
0 27

c2
0.375
0.125
0.120
0 2 + 0.23
0.2
0 23

Distribution Models

sH
H
and

= standard deviation,
= mean wave height
h i ht
= Weibull and Gumbel Parameter
= lower limit of H = threshold value in a Peak over Threshold data set

Probability Table

z = -3.4

P = 3.37 x 10-4

z = +3.4

P = 1- 3.37 x 10-4

Normal Distribution Curve

= 0.999663
P = 3.37 x 10-4
In Excel : NORMINV
Example: =NORMIV(J38,0,1)
z = -3.4
z =0

i c1
Q=
N + c2
i
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22

H
5.95
5.38
5.26
5 03
5.03
4.82
4.75
4.71
4.68
4.63
4.54
4.49
4.43
4.40
4.38
4.36
4.35
4.34
4.33
4.29
4.25
4.24
4.23

Q
0.010
0.033
0.055
0 078
0.078
0.100
0.123
0.145
0.168
0.190
0.213
0.235
0.258
0.280
0.303
0.325
0.348
0.370
0.393
0.415
0.437
0.460
0.482

W
6.675
4.642
3.775
3 227
3.227
2.832
2.524
2.274
2.064
1.884
1.727
1.588
1.463
1.351
1.250
1.157
1.071
0.993
0.920
0.852
0.788
0.729
0.673

1
W = ln
Q

i
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44

H
4.22
4.21
4.20
4 20
4.20
4.17
4.17
4.16
4.16
4.14
4.14
4.13
4.09
4.09
4.08
4.07
4.07
4.06
4.05
4.04
4.04
4.03
4.01

Q
0.505
0.527
0.550
0 572
0.572
0.595
0.617
0.640
0.662
0.685
0.707
0.730
0.752
0.775
0.797
0.820
0.842
0.865
0.887
0.910
0.932
0.954
0.977

W
0.621
0.572
0.526
0 482
0.482
0.441
0.402
0.365
0.330
0.297
0.266
0.236
0.208
0.182
0.156
0.133
0.111
0.090
0.071
0.053
0.036
0.022
0.009

Plot Extreme Distribution

Weibulll Reduced
d Variate - W

8.0

y=A.x + B

7.0

A = 3.395
3 395

6.0

B = - 13.704

y = 3.395x - 13.704
R2 = 0.995

5.0
40
4.0
3.0
2.0
1.0
0.0
-1.0
10
4

4.5

5.5

Wave Height - H (m)

Weibull Distribution for Ordered Data Set (=0.8).

6.5

Plot Extreme Distribution

2.5

y=A.x + B

2.0

Re
educed Va
ariate - z

A = 5.270
5 270

1.5

B = - 7.180

1.0

y = 5.270x - 7.180
R2 = 0.979
0 979

05
0.5
0.0
-0.5
-1.0
-1.5
-2.0
1.4

1.5

1.6

1.7

1.8

1.9

ln H

Log-Normal Distribution for Ordered Data Set

Plot Extreme Distribution

Gumbel Reduced Variate - G

5.0

y=A.x + B
40
4.0

A = 2.211
2 211

y = 2.211x
2 211 - 8.591
8 591
2
R = 0.992

3.0

B = - 8.591

20
2.0
1.0
0.0
-1.0
-2.0
4

4.5

5.5

Wave Height - H (m)

Gumbel Distribution for Ordered Data Set

6.5

Distribution Models

sH
H
and

= standard deviation,
= mean wave height
h i ht
= Weibull and Gumbel Parameter
= lower limit of H = threshold value in a Peak over Threshold data set

Return Period Prediction

Weibull
N
44

1.26

0.80

0.29

3.97

20
5.22

Return
Ret
rn Period (Yrs)
50
100
5.68
6.05

200
6.43

N
44

1.26

0.45

3.87

20
5.31

Return Period (Yrs)

50
100
5.73
6.04

200
6.36

Gumbel

Log Normal
N

44

1.26

lln H
1.36

20

0.19

5.44

Return Period (Yrs)

50
100
5.86

6.16

200
6.45