Professional Documents
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WHATS NEXT
Skyline S5
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1/21/15 3:23 PM
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New and trendy
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BS_BurdaStyle.com_Spr15.indd 1
burda style.com
1/16/15 5:21 PM
SPRING 2015
fashion
25
PERFECT FIT
URBAN JUNGLE
BIG DAY
WHITE HOT
INDIGO
Feel anything but blue in casually charming
styles. Page 32
*COVER STORY
diy trends
& styling
14
CROCHET
TRIANGLES
WHITE WEDDINGS
An assortment of elegant dresses for
beautiful brides-to-be. Page 48
*COVER STORY
18
ROSE PETAL
COLORFUL CONTRAST
SPRING FLING
CASUAL COUTURE
COSMOPOLITAN
Stylish staples with an eye-catching edge. Page 40
*COVER STORY
52
BRIDAL BEAUTY
burda style.com
BS_TOC_Spr15.indd 2
SPRING 2015
1/22/15 2:09 PM
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THE 5 SERIES
Discover the new BERNINA 5 Series and the many ways it will inspire you to write
your own story. Get our free dress pattern with instructions today at berninausa.com.
2015 BERNINA of America
Bernina ad.indd 3
1/20/15 5:20 PM
inside
SPRING 2015
TRENDSETTER
Alluring accessories
with fashionable flair.
Page 46
MINT CONDITION
Illustrated sewing instructions for a
sophisticated off-the-shoulder top.
Page 107
PRETTY IN PASTEL
Feminine styles in soft spring shades.
Page 26 *COVER STORY
in every issue
1
BURDASTYLE.COM
EDITORS NOTE
106
106
111
FABRIC MANIPULATION
112
INSPIRATION
FABRIC MASTER
TOP 10
PREVIEW
GIVEAWAY
sewing
10
LIGHT YEARS
Contemporary designs sewn in clean, classic
white. Page 54
visit burdastyle.com
Looking for styles that match your skill level?
Keep an eye out for our Easy and Advanced symbols.
4
burda style.com
BS_TOC_Spr15.indd 4
SPRING 2015
1/16/15 6:42 PM
Embroidery
makes me
unique!
There is nothing like the one-of-a-kind embroideries
built-in a HUSQVARNA VIKING machine just waiting
to be unleashed. From decorative motifs to delicate
lace, now is the time to spice up your style with the
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NEW
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The Master of Metallic
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editors note
SPRING 2015
Denise Wild
Editorial Director, BurdaStyle US
burda style.com
BS_EdNote_Spr15.indd 6
SPRING 2015
1/22/15 2:13 PM
1/20/15 3:16 PM
SPRING 2015
EDITORI A L DIRECTOR, US EDITION Denise Wild
ASSISTA NT EDITOR Alana Walsh
TECHNICA L EDITOR Linda Turner Griepentrog
EDITORI A L CONTRIBUTORS Hina Ansari, Christine Carson, Amanda Kaufmann
A RT DIRECTOR Amy Petriello
PRODUCTION DESIGNER Janice Tapia
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTR ATORS Sheila Lam, Missy Shepler
DIRECTOR OF ONLINE PRODUCT DEV ELOPMENT Winter Thielen
BURDAST Y LE.COM EDITOR Meg Healy
ADVERTISING M ANAGERS Mary-Evelyn Dalton, maryeveholder@comcast.net,
615-297-3639; Wendy Thompson, wendy.thompson@fwcommunity.com, 910-791-3832
DIGITAL SALES M ANAGER Laura Abel, laura.abel@fwcommunity.com,
303-215-5610
A D TR A FFICK ER Lisa Richter
Kick-Start Your
Sewing With
Free
GUIDES
academy.
burdastyle.com
BurdaStyle is published in Austria, Brazil, Canada, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France,
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BS_Masthead_Spr15.indd 8
1/20/15 6:28 PM
Mollie Makes
Embroidery
Mollie Makes bags
Mollie Makes gifts
Mollie Makes cross-stitch
Mollie Makes wall dcor
Mollie Makes jewelry
Mollie Makes doodle stitching
Mollie Makes crewel work
www.interweavestore.com/sewing
or by calling 866-949-1646
1/20/15 3:20 PM
HI TECH
New and advanced software is about to change the way we look
at embroidery. Create your own designs from clipart or photos,
personalize and modify your designs in seconds, and even check
out a 3D preview of the finished product. TRUEMBROIDERY 3
software for Mac, $899 or $2,299 (depending on duration of
software support purchased).
Perfectly Stitched
Tools and reads that will elevate your craft
SEEING DOUBLE
MATERIALISTIC
Finding the right fabric is key
when it comes to creating a
gorgeous garment. Conquer the
fashion world with extensive
knowledge on all things fabric,
textiles, and design. Fabrics In
Fashion Design, $45.
Over 300
terms
explained
Christine Haynes
HOW TO SPEAK
FLUENT SEWING
FOREIGN LANGUAGE
burda style.com
BS_New&Now_Spr15.indd 10
SPRING 2015
1/22/15 6:56 PM
FINE LINE
MARK SEAMLINES,
NOTCHES, AND
PATTERN
MARKINGS WITH
PRECISION AND
CLARITY USING
THIS FINE-TIPPED
WHITE PEN. THE
CAP POPS OFF EASILY
FOR INSTALLING
INCLUDED INK
REFILLS. CLOVER
WHITE MARKING PEN
WITH REFILLS, $14.
SMOOTH AS SILK
Lustrous, silky satins in over 108 vibrant solids and five
print collections to choose from provide endless creative
sewing combinations. Shannon Fabrics, $6-$7/yard.
MAGNETIC
Never worry about misplaced pins again! A
stylish magnetic pincushion holds pins in
place while a wristband ensures that pins
are always within reach as you sew. Unique
Quilting Wrist Magnetic Pin Caddy, $8.
SKETCH ARTIST
burda style.com
BS_New&Now_Spr15.indd 12
BACK TO BASICS
Stock your closet with simple yet stylish
staples that are a must-have in any
womans wardrobe. Simply Sewn, $25.
SPRING 2015
1/22/15 2:17 PM
WEB SEMINARS
60-Minute Event
Live Q&A with
Presenter
Receive a Recording
After the Event
Copying a Pattern
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Pattern Drafting
Tailoring Techniques
Register now at
register.burdastyle.com
1/21/15 11:14 AM
runway diy
HERV LGER
make it!
FULL CIRCLE
Upgrade a narrow belt by crocheting
along both sides
FLORAL
AFFAIR
Embroidered
flowers add an
enchanting
accent
Chain stitch
STAR STRUCK
This pretty appliqu pattern can
be made once you know some
basic crochet stitches.
Double crochet
CROCHET
CHIC
14
burda style.com
Half treble
Slip stitch
TORY BURCH
Double
treble
Treble
PHOTOS: JAN SCHMIEDEL (STEP IMAGES); FIRSTVIEW.COM (RUNWAY IMAGES). ILLUSTRATIONS: KARIN DULDNER;
CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS: DIANE SCHROLL. PRODUCTION: THERESA BACHLER.
BLUE STREAK
A gorgeous blue appliqu
transforms a simple white tank
SPRING 2015
BS_RunwayDIY1_Crochet_Spr15.indd 14
1/16/15 5:28 PM
ADVERTORIAL
fabric
TREND SPECIAL
As warm weather rolls in, florals and pretty patterns abound
MICHAEL MILLER
FABRICS
MICHAELMILLERFABRICS.COM
A life without dreams is like a garden without
flowers, so dream on! Michael Millers Vintage
Floral Collection is a modern take on classic
prints, from retro geometrics and tiny floral
prints to bold bouquet borders. These silky
soft fabrics will invigorate your creativity from
season to season! You can view the whole
collection at http://www.michaelmillerfabrics.
com/shop/collections/vintage-florals.html
SPRING 2015
BS_Advertorial_Spr15.indd 15
burda style.com
15
1/21/15 3:55 PM
runway diy
VICTORIA BECKHAM
make it!
EMBELLISH AN
OUTFIT WITH
HAND-EMBROIDERED
TRIANGLES
SHAPING UP
Jazz up a gym-ready backpack
by creating an all-over triangular
pattern with pre-strung sequins
ON THE EDGE
A simple mini-skirt is
spiced up by triangles
embroidered onto
the hem
MATERIALS Fabric,
embroidery thread, metallic
embroidery thread, fusible
interfacing, embroidery hoop,
hand embroidery needle,
scissors, hand-drafted triangle
template, chalk.
16
burda style.com
CUSTO BARCELONA
A CUTE
TRIANGLE
STEP 2 Bring the needle back
through to the left of the upper
point, close to the marked line.
Insert the needle into lower
right-hand corner and bring it
back up at the lower left corner.
SPRING 2015
BS_RunwayDIY2_Triangles_Spr15.indd 16
1/16/15 5:30 PM
1/23/15 9:05 AM
runway diy
MOSCHINO
make it!
WILD
ROSES
Twisted metal
wire creates an
eye-catching
necklace
Decorative flowers
add a touch of romance
for spring
18
burda style.com
FLORAL
FLAIR
STEP 2 Once you have finished
the rose, trim off the excess wire
with the wire cutter. File the end of
the wire smooth with the sandpaper.
IN BLOOM
Flowers of
entwined wire
and leather
adorn a
headband
SPRING 2015
BS_RunwayDIY3_Flowers_Spr15.indd 18
1/16/15 5:32 PM
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1/20/15 4:58 PM
runway diy
LWREN SCOTT
make it!
MATERIALS Long-sleeve
top, lining fabric, fusible
interfacing, removable marker,
pattern paper, fusible webbing,
pen, thread, scissors, ruler,
measuring tape, pins.
SLASHED
SLEEVES
CHANEL
20
burda style.com
WINGED
COOL
Glam
brooches
CONTRAST
make pink
this jumper
Salmon
lining
elegant
adds adress
splash
of color
to thisenough
classic for
style
evening wear
SPRING 2015
BS_RunwayDIY4_SleeveSlits_Spr15.indd 20
1/23/15 4:58 PM
beauty
In Full Bloom
Playful pastels and bold brights give your face a fresh softness
for spring
1.
2.
4.
3.
burda style.com
BS_Beauty_Spr15.indd 22
1. DOUBLE DUTY
Fill in your brows and line your eyes with a powder
that leaves a softer finish than pencil. CoverGirl
Bombshell Pow-der Brow + Liner by LashBlast
in Dark Brown, $11.
SPRING 2015
1/16/15 5:38 PM
6.
5.
HAIR
REPAIR
Treat your dried-out
locks to a full
recovery
2.
7.
5.
3.
4.
1.
SPRING 2015
BS_Beauty_Spr15.indd 23
burda style.com
23
1/16/15 5:39 PM
EXCLUSIVE
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Promo Code Exclusions Apply: Your special discount/coupon code will allow you to take 10% OFF many (not all) of the items you nd at
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or items that ship directly from manufacturers. Discounts cannot be applied to previous purchases. Valid for one use per customer only. Other exclusions may apply.
1/20/15 5:24 PM
fashion
IN THIS ISSUE
Pastel hues and
sophisticated
silhouettes
Chic and easy in
shades of blue
Modern khakis go
cosmopolitan
Beautiful styles for the
blushing bride
Simple whites in a
timeless style
SPRING 2015
BS_FashionOpener_Spr15.indd 25
burda style.com
25
1/16/15 5:41 PM
burda fashion
THE
SWEET
LIFE
26
burda style.com
SPRING 2015
BS_Fashion1_TheSweetLife_Spr15.indd 26
1/16/15 5:43 PM
burda fashion
OPPOSITE PAGE
BLUE SKIES
RAY OF LIGHT
SQUARE-NECK TOP
111-022015-US
A-LINE SKIRT WITH
PLEATED YOKE
106-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 34 42
Care Tip
Polyester jacquard
can be machinewashed on a gentle
cycle in cold water.
Silk or wool jacquard
should only be dry
cleaned, especially
when woven with
metallic threads.
BS_Fashion1_TheSweetLife_Spr15.indd 27
1/16/15 5:44 PM
burda fashion
NATURAL
BEAUTY
TEA DRESS
101-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 36 44
28
burda style.com
SPRING 2015
BS_Fashion1_TheSweetLife_Spr15.indd 28
1/16/15 5:44 PM
burda fashion
This
peplum
top is in
petite
sizes
17-21
WORK OF ART
STRUCTURED PEPLUM
TOP 115-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 17 21
Style
idea
Sew the jacket
in leather for a
sharp, edgy look.
BS_Fashion1_TheSweetLife_Spr15.indd 29
1/16/15 5:44 PM
burda fashion
LEADING LADY
PRINCESS SEAM
BOATNECK TOP
104-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
30
burda style.com
SPRING 2015
BS_Fashion1_TheSweetLife_Spr15.indd 30
1/21/15 4:13 PM
burda fashion
PICTURESQUE
DEEP V-NECK TOP
117-022015-US
BS_Fashion1_TheSweetLife_Spr15.indd 31
1/16/15 5:45 PM
burda fashion
BLUE
SKIES
A selection of polished and
picturesque designs are brought
to life in an enchanting array of
blue and white
Style
idea
Use fun,
decorative
buttons on the
jacket for a totally
unique look.
32
burda style.com
BS_Fashion2_BlueWhite_Spr15.indd 32
SPRING 2015
1/16/15 5:47 PM
burda fashion
OPPOSITE PAGE
IN THE NAVY
BOUCL JACKET
102-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 36 44
ER
MASETCE
PI
THIS PAGE
TEA PARTY
Style
Idea
If you choose to
sew the two-piece
dress in contrasting fabrics, a
darker fabric for
the skirt will slim
the lower body,
while a darker
shade on top will
help narrow a
broad torso. A
matching top and
skirt will create a
long and lean
silhouette.
SPRING 2015
BS_Fashion2_BlueWhite_Spr15.indd 33
burda style.com
33
1/16/15 5:48 PM
burda fashion
BLUE MOON
A softly draped
neckline with shoulder
closure adds a subtle
touch to this simple,
straight-cut shirt.
Leather panels are
sewn to the sleeves for
added flair.
FABRIC & NOTIONS
34
burda style.com
BS_Fashion2_BlueWhite_Spr15.indd 34
SPRING 2015
1/16/15 5:48 PM
SOFT SIDE
OVERSIZED CARDIGAN
111.1-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 34/36, 38/40, 42/44
WORKOUT PANTS
112-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 36 44
Style
idea
Add shape to the
loose-fitting
cardigan by
wearing a belt.
BS_Fashion2_BlueWhite_Spr15.indd 35
1/16/15 5:48 PM
burda fashion
SKYS
THE LIMIT
CROPPED CHAMBRAY
BLOUSE
105A-022015-US
FLORAL SKINNY JEANS
115.1-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 34 44
Style
idea
If the cropped cut
leaves you feeling
too exposed at the
waist, wear a long
tank top
underneath for a
layered look, or
tuck the blouse
into a highwaisted skirt.
36
burda style.com
BS_Fashion2_BlueWhite_Spr15.indd 36
SPRING 2015
1/16/15 5:49 PM
burda fashion
WELL CONNECTED
BS_Fashion2_BlueWhite_Spr15.indd 37
1/16/15 5:49 PM
style savvy
CASUAL
ELEGANCE
You dont have to sacrifice comfort for
the sake of style. These casual pants
pair perfectly with blouses and
sophisticated jewelry for a look that is
effortlessly chic. Or lay on the sequins,
sparkles, and stylish accents the
laid-back look of these stretchy trousers
tones down more extravagant pieces to
bring you the best of both worlds.
BURDASTYLE
GERMANYS
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
DAGMAR BILY SAYS:
SIGHT
SEEING
GLITTER
AND GOLD
Jacket, BurdaStyle
12/13, Style 111
SUBTLE-TEE
T-shirt, Bruno
Manetti
IN THE
BAG
Purse,
Liu Jo
These cute
workout
pants are
GO GREEN
Earrings,
Chaingang
SMOOTH
OPERATOR
Hair Oil, LOral
SNAPSHOT
Camera, Lomo LC
Wide
WORKOUT PANTS
112-022015-US
ON PAGE 35
38
burda style.com
BS_StyleSavvy_Spr15.indd 38
TWINKLE
TOES
Boots, Sendra
one of my favorite
pieces for spring.
Just like jeans or leggings,
they can be styled to look
good with almost anything.
Ill wear them when Im
relaxing at home, or add
a classy top, heels, and
sparkling accessories for
wearing at the office or on a
night out. The casual pants
and glamorous top balance
each other out for an outfit
that looks great day and
night.
SPRING 2015
1/22/15 2:22 PM
LUNCH
DATE
BRIGHT
WHITE
Blouse, BurdaStyle
09/13, Style 118B
CORAL COAST
Top, BurdaStyle.com
(Top With Shoulder Tabs)
FOCAL
POINT
Necklace,
Maliparmi
by Conleys
20/20
VISION
Sunglasses,
Dragon
Alliance
BUTTON
UP
Blazer, Oui
APERITIF
DOWN
SUNSHINE
STATE
Bag, Aigner
GO FOR
GOLD
Clutch,
AGL
RIGHT
ON TIME
Watch,
Calvin Klein
SWEETLY
SCENTED
Perfume, Geste,
Humiecki and Graef
RAISE A
GLASS
Mint and
lime
cocktail
LUSH
LOCKS
Dry shampoo,
Bumble and
Bumble
WALK
THIS WAY
Sandals, AGI
STRAP HAPPY
Sandals, Buffalo
SPRING 2015
BS_StyleSavvy_Spr15.indd 39
burda style.com
39
1/22/15 2:21 PM
burda woman
TIMELESS
40
burda style.com
SPRING 2015
BS_Fashion3_UrbanJungle_Spr15.indd 40
1/16/15 6:03 PM
CJ
oncrete
ungle
Animal prints are in this season,
so why not bring a taste of the
wild to the big city with one of
summers hottest trends! Mix in
neutrals and earth tones to keep
the look casual and sophisticated
IN SIZES 44 52
PHOTOGRAPHY: NICOLE NEUMANN
PRODUCTION: ANASTASIOS VOULGARIS
BS_Fashion3_UrbanJungle_Spr15.indd 41
1/16/15 6:03 PM
burda woman
This blouse
helps
minimize a
wider
waistline
COSMOPOLITAN
42
burda style.com
SPRING 2015
BS_Fashion3_UrbanJungle_Spr15.indd 42
1/16/15 6:04 PM
URBAN GIRL
SPRING 2015
BS_Fashion3_UrbanJungle_Spr15.indd 43
burda style.com
43
1/16/15 6:04 PM
burda woman
ON THE MOVE
44
burda style.com
SPRING 2015
BS_Fashion3_UrbanJungle_Spr15.indd 44
1/16/15 6:05 PM
STREET SMARTS
BS_Fashion3_UrbanJungle_Spr15.indd 45
burda style.com
45
1/22/15 2:26 PM
accessorize
METALLIC MAVEN
This cuff, which boasts
five steel-treated
hexagons as the center
point, cant be worn with
hesitation. Be fearless or
go home. Annchich, $120.
FACE OFF
The Dream Rose
Automatic Quartz watch
with a stunning brown
strap elicits a subtle
safari vibe. Tissot,
$3,750.
ON GUARD
Protect your
essentials (be it a
compass, map, or
your notes) for your
next board meeting
with this elegant
metallic tweed and
leather envelopestyle clutch. Made to
keep your MacBook
beautifully protected,
this stylish piece can
easily double as a
chic clutch.
MODA:KO, $250.
URBAN JUNGLE
Veer away from the pack and stand out as
the queen with these eye-catching pieces that
will make them roar
BY HINA P. ANSARI
CHEETAH CHIC
Slip into the Tassie sandal and its
chic cheetah print as you sprint from
your meetings to your mani and then
out to mocktails. Aldo, $70.
46
BS_Accessorize1_UrbanJungle_Spr15.indd 46
1/16/15 6:08 PM
THREE-POINT
TURN
Stop traffic or clear
the crowd with this
stunning Tribeca
Pochette in gold
metallic. With a
glimmer of gold and a
cute wristlet, this bag
adds a perfect
shimmer to your
already-fierce look.
Blacksea, $695.
REGAL
BRILLIANCE
The Palace necklace is stylish
and substantive. When a queen
needs to shine, what better way
to do so than with this? Rosena
Sammi, $66.
WRAP IT UP
Beautiful marine-inspired rope
bracelets invite you to pile it on
without thinking twice. Kiel
James Patrick (striped), $75.
PACK A PUNCH
Not only does this
gorgeous black tote
make a statement (in
vegan leather no-less),
but by purchasing this
Sunday Tote II, youll
be making a
donation to
Melanoma
Research
Foundation.
Angela &
Roi, $150.
STEP IN
THE SUN
The Cairo bootie,
with an architectural
flair in the heel and
beautiful mesh floral
pattern, adds a
delightful dash of
femininity to the
seriously city-chic
look. Carolinna
Espinosa, $295.
STYLISH SCAN
With these stylish
Maverick aviatorstyle sunnies, you
can scan your
surroundings with
epic style. TOMS,
$139. With every pair
of TOMS you
purchase, TOMS will
help restore sight to
a person in need. One
for One.
SHEATHS OF STYLE
How can one resist these framing your
face? Stunning gold Geo Arch brass
earrings with their timeless African
motif catch the rays while you are on
the hunt. Annchich, $92.
SPRING 2015
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burda fashion
FIRST DANCE
PHOTOGRAPHY:
DANA VAN LEEUWEN
PRODUCTION:
MIRIAM NOWAK AYALA
Say
I Do
Style
Idea
As you sew the
satin bodice, add a
layer of lace as an
eye-catching accent.
48
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LOVE STORY
An open
sweetheart
neckline
enhances
the bust and
highlights the
collarbone
This
dress is
in petite
sizes
17-21
BS_Fashion4_BigDay_Spr15v2.indd 50
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burda fashion
TRUE LOVE
This
dress is
in tall
sizes
72-88
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 72 88
Style
Idea
To enhance this
dreamy, romantic
look, pair it with
a delicate veil
and subtle
sparkling
accessories.
SPRING 2015
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accessorize
JUST THE
RIGHT DROP
Beautifully shaped in the
narcissus flower, which
symbolizes the end of winter
and the beginning of a
fruitful and prosperous new
season. Set includes
necklace above and
earrings, opposite page.
Jemily, $660.
PINK PETALS
This 18k Rose
Hanabira Ring
with Sapphire and
Tourmaline is a
wonderful way to
keep the spirit of
springtimes
bouquet with you
everywhere.
Suz Somersall,
$1,876.
BRIDAL
BEAUTY
CLASSIC TIME
This watch adds
subtle sophistication
with the mini size and
feminine round case.
Don it as your way of
adding that extra
sparkle (diamond
options available),
while being sure to
remember every
second of that
memorable day.
Tissot, $1,025.
BS_Accessorize2_Bridal_Spr15.indd 52
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STEPPING
IN STYLE
U.K-based designer
Aruna Seth is always a
heel up when it comes
to her fun designs. Her
fantastic Candy pumps
(available in pink and
white) with beaded
heels embrace the
freshest of hues and
add a superb wow
factor! Aruna Seth,
$1,300.
CIRCLE OF HOPE
This silver bracelet has an
equal balance of delicate and
bold. Beautiful baubles spread
out the fine chain link giving
this piece subtle yet
substantive beauty.
Links of London, $225.
SPRING 2015
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burda fashion
white
HOT
Clean-cut lines and simple details make a statement in shades of
gray and white, creating a collection of chic and modern styles
PHOTOGRAPHY: CARLOS ALSINA
PRODUCTION: SABINE MAEULEN
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burda fashion
STEP IT UP
EVENING JUMPSUIT
107A-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 36 44
Sewing
hint
Have someone
measure the
exact length of
your back and
adjust the length
of the pattern
accordingly so
that the legs and
back will fit
perfectly.
SPRING 2015
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burda fashion
This
dress is
in petite
sizes
17-21
UNDER WRAPS
CRISS-CROSS V-NECK
DRESS 117.1-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 17 21
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burda fashion
SPOTLIGHT
FUNNEL-NECK DRESS
112.1-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 34 42
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burda fashion
SPACE AGE
Sewing
hint
Fabric with some
stiffness is needed
to maintain the
structured
silhouette of the
dress.
BURDA SIZES 36 44
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burda fashion
DYNAMIC DUO
SPRING 2015
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burda fashion
SIMPLY
STUNNING
FUNNEL-NECK TOP
111A-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 34 42
CUMBERBUND SKIRT
114-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 34 44
WHITE KNIGHT
MENS LINEN JACKET
128-022015-US
MENS LINEN PANTS
129-022015-US
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burda fashion
STRAIGHT
AND NARROW
WRAP BLOUSE
115A-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 34 42
LOW-RISE CROPPED
PANTS 116-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 34 44
Style
idea
If youd prefer a
longer blouse,
you can easily
adjust the
pattern to your
desired length.
SPRING 2015
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LIMITED
QUANTITIES!
www.interweavestore.com/sewing-kits
BurdaStyle Kit-of-the-Month ad.indd 62
1/20/15 5:01 PM
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
Spring 2015
101
107
111
117
115
106
105
109
PATTERN
INSERT
PATTERN
INSERT
PATTERN
INSERT
PATTERN
INSERT
PATTERN
INSERT
108.1
117.1
106.1
109.1
115 A
PATTERN
INSERT
112.1
128
PATTERN
INSERT
111 A
110 A PATTERN
INSERT
114
136
135 A
129
116
PATTERN
INSERT
134 A
116 B
PATTERN
INSERT
PATTERN
INSERT
122
134 B
PATTERN
INSERT
137
132
PATTERN
INSERT
PATTERN
INSERT
PATTERN
INSERT
PATTERN
INSERT
108
102
105 A
115.1
110
111.1
PATTERN
INSERT
113
PATTERN
INSERT
PATTERN
INSERT
104.1
SPRING 2015
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PATTERN
INSERT
burda style.com
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Instructions
Additional
information:
n The fabric requirements given
are based on the fabric used in
our original designs. These
amounts will change if you use
fabric of a different width.
n The cutting layouts included
with the sewing instructions
show our recommended way to
place the pattern pieces. Unless
instructed otherwise, fold the
fabric in half with the right sides
together, bringing together the
opposing selvedges. When
cutting from a single layer of
fabric, the right side of the
fabric should face up.
n Pattern pieces shown in the
cutting layout with broken
outlines should be pinned to
the fabric with the printed
side facing down.
n Pattern pieces shown in the
cutting layout with shading
require interfacing. Shaded
areas of a larger pattern piece
require interfacing for that
particular portion.
n Transfer the pattern piece
lines to the wrong side of the
fabric with tailors chalk.
Hand-baste along placement
lines (e.g. for pockets or center
front) to make them visible on
the right side of the fabric.
TIP
Fabrics may shrink when laundered for the first time, especially those made of
cotton, linen, and rayon. To avoid shrinkage of the finished garment, these fabrics
should be pre-treated (washed and dried before cutting out the fabric pieces). Use the
temperature settings you plan to use for the finished garment. If you want to test the
amount of shrinkage of your fabric, cut a square of the fabric and measure it exactly.
Finish the edges, then wash it, and compare the size after washing with the original size.
64
burda style.com
Symbols
Armhole markings
These small lines at the edges
of the sleeve and front
armhole pieces must meet
when the sleeve is set in.
Fold
Broken line
In the cutting layout,
the broken line indicates
the fold edge of a
double layer of fabric.
Selvedges
Button
Buttonhole
Eyelet opening
Fold line
In the pattern overview
box, this broken line
means that the pattern
edge must be placed on
a fold and not cut.
Joining line
Large pattern pieces that cannot
fit on the pattern insert sheet will
be in two pieces. These pieces
must be taped together after they
have been traced onto pattern
paper. A double line indicates the
joining line and small triangles
indicate match points.
Lengthening
If a pattern piece is too long to fit on
the pattern insert sheet, you will need
to lengthen it when you trace the
pattern piece onto pattern paper.
Lengthen the pattern from the point
of the arrow by the amount indicated
in centimeters at the arrow.
Pleat symbol
Fold the pleat in the direction
of the arrow.
Presser foot
A presser foot image indicates seam
and topstitching lines.
Scissors
Scissors indicate slash lines, such as
welt pocket openings. (On downloadable patterns, scissors indicate
edges to be cut without an added
seam allowance.)
Seam marks
Shown on long seams,
these small lines perpendicular to the cutting line
indicate edges to be
matched. Match the seam
marks to one another.
Seam numbers
Adjacent pattern pieces
that must be sewn
together are indicated
with the same seam
numbers. Match pieces
with the same numbers.
Slit/Placket mark
This small, thick line that
intersects the cutting line
indicates beginning or
end of a slit or placket.
Placket/slit mark
SPRING 2015
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TAKING MEASUREMENTS
1
For the best fit, its important to take precise measurements. Measure your body while wearing underwear or close-fitting
garments, and have someone assist you if needed. Use a flexible measuring tape to measure around your body, ensuring the tape
is taut but not tight and parallel to the floor. Stand upright with a relaxed posture, and breathe normally while you measure.
1 Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust. Neck
circumference: Measure the circumference at the base of the neck
and above the collarbone.
2 Waist: Measure around your natural waist, the narrowest part.
Hips: Measure horizontally around the fullest part of your bottom
and upper thighs.
Additional measurements:
3 Front waist length: Measure from the side base of the neck over
the apex of the bust to the natural waistline. Bust depth: Measure
from the side base of the neck to the apex of the bust.
4 Back waist length: Measure from the base of your neck to the
natural waistline. Back width: Measure horizontally between your
arm attachment points.
5 Shoulder: Measure from the base of your neck to the tip of your
shoulder. Upper arm: Measure around the fullest part of your
upper arm.
6 Arm length: With your arm slightly bent, measure from the tip of
your shoulder over the elbow to the natural waistline.
Important: Compare your body measurements to the appropriate Burda size chart here or on BurdaStyle.com.
Circle each of your body measurements on the size chart since you may want to adjust your pattern to fit a range
of sizes. Your Burda size will be different from your regular store-bought clothing size.
WOMENS SIZE CHART (Regular) inches
BURDA SIZE
32 34 36 38
HEIGHT
6614 6614 6614 6614
BUST
30 3112 33 3434
WAIST
23 2412 26 2734
HIP
3212 34 3512 37
BACK LENGTH 1534 16 1614 1612
SLEEVE LENGTH 2314 2314 2314 2334
NECK WIDTH
13 1338 1334 1418
SIDE LEG
LENGTH
3934 4014 4014 4034
FRONT WAIST
LENGTH
1612 17 1714 1734
BUST POINT
912 978 1014 1034
UPPER ARM
CIRCUMFERENCE 978 1014 1034 1118
42
6614
3734
3034
4014
1634
24
15
41
41
44
6614
3912
3212
4134
17
24
1538
46
6614
41
34
4312
1718
24
1534
48
6614
4312
3614
4512
1714
24
1618
50
6614
4512
3834
48
1712
2412
1612
52
6614
48
41
5012
1734
2412
17
54
6614
5012
4312
5234
18
2434
1714
56
6614
52
4512
5514
1814
2434
1734
58
6614
55
48
5712
1812
2434
1818
60
6614
5712
5012
60
1812
2434
1812
BURDA SIZE 44
48
50 52
54
56
HEIGHT
66 67 68 69 71 71 72
CHEST
3458 36 37 39 41 42 44
WAIST
30 32 34 35 37 38 41
SEAT
35 37 38 40 40 43 45
BACK
LENGTH
16 17 17 17 17 18 18
ARM
LENGTH
24 24 24 25 25 26 26
NECK
14 15 15 15 16 16 17
BS_064-066_InstructionOpenerSP15.indd 65
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SEWING INFORMATION
To install an invisible
zipper, follow these steps:
n Open the zipper and push the zipper teeth/
coil back with your thumbnail to reveal the
seamline marking between the zipper tape
and the coil. Place the open zipper right-side
down on the fabric right side of one opening
edge, and align the invisible zipper seamline
marking with the fabric seamline. (The zipper
tape will be on the same side as the fabric
edge.) Pin the zipper tape in place. The
bottom end of the zipper will extend past the
marked opening end. Place the invisible zipper
foot over the zipper so the coil is in one of the
notches and the needle is aligned with the
seamline. Stitch the zipper in place from the
top down. Close the zipper.
n Place the other zipper tape right-side down
on the right side of the fabric of the opposite
opening edge. Align, pin, and sew the other
side of the zipper in place just as you did in
the previous step. Close the zipper.
n Stitch the seam below the zipper, from the
bottom to the top. As you approach the
bottom of the zipper, turn the loose lower
end of the zipper out of the way. Stitch as
close as possible to the last stitches of the
zipper seams. The zipper tail remains loose
inside the garment, or you can trim it and
bind the ends if desired.
66
burda style.com
2014 Verlag Aenne Burda GmbH & Co. KG, Hubert-Burda-Platz 2, 77652 Offenburg, Germny. All designs anre copyrighted. Copying for commercial purposes is prohibited.
SPRING 2015
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project instructions
101-
022015-US
Tea Dress
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Metallic print, 54" (137cm) wide: size 36:
2yds (2.2m); sizes 38, 40, 42: 258yds
(2.25m); size 44: 278yds (2.55m)
Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-9, 14, and 15 from pattern
sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Metallic print:
1center front, cut 1 on fold
2side front, cut 2
3center back, cut 2
4side back, cut 2
5sleeve front, cut 2
6sleeve back, cut 2
Construction
Stitch bust darts. Press darts down.
On bodice, stitch front and back section
seams and side seams. Press section seam
allowances toward center and press side
seam allowances open.
Stitch lower sleeve seams (seam number
4). Stitch sleeves to front and back pieces
(seam numbers 5 and 6). Press seam
allowances toward sleeves, from upper
edges to beginning of underarm curve.
Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve
seams, beginning and ending exactly on
marked neck edge. Press seam allowances
open.
Stitch darts in side skirt panels. Press
front darts forward and press side darts
toward back.
Fold front skirt along center, right sides
together. Stitch side edges of integrated
pockets together, from upper edge to corner.
Press seam allowances open. Turn skirt rightside out so pocket piece seam lies under
center front. Baste pleat folds to sides.
Lay front skirt on side skirts, with wrong
side facing right fabric side and with
integrated pocket pieces aligning. Pin pleat
folds to placement lines. On inside, stitch
integrated pocket pieces together as
marked. Stitch together along long edges
of integrated pleats (seam number 9) and
Cutting layouts
Burda pattern
skill levels
Quick and easy, great for beginners
Easy to sew, with simple features
Easy to sew, but more timeconsuming
Easy to intermediate level
Intermediate difficulty, for
advanced learners
Advanced level sewing,
with special features
Challenging, detailed and
time-consuming for pros
Selvedges
Size 44
Fold
Fold
Selvedge
Selvedge
Selvedges
NZ_BS1402_101T
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project instructions
102-
022015-US
Boucl Jacket
Construction
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Boucl, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 258yds
(2.35m) Note: Select a fabric that will fray
easily.
Lining scrap to cover snaps
Interfacing
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 4 large sewon snap fasteners
Note: To make both the jacket style 102022015-US and skirt style 104.1-022015US, you will need 3yds (2.9m) of 60"
(152.5cm) wide fabric. See skirt style
104.1-022015-US for amount of lining
fabric needed.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Trace
facing from piece 1 as a separate pattern
piece. Cut out all paper pieces.
68
burda style.com
Cutting layouts
Boucl, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Fold
Jacket 102-022015-US
Selvedge
Fold
Selvedge
Selvedges
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Boucl:
1center front, cut 2
1 front facing, cut 2
2side front, cut 2
3center back, cut 2
4side back, cut 2
5upper sleeve, cut 2
6under sleeve, cut 2
7collar, cut 2 on fold
8back facing, cut 1 on fold
NZ_BS1403_102T
Fold
Fold
Selvedges
Selvedge
Selvedges
Fold
SPRING 2015
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project instructions
HELPFUL HINT
Cover snap fasteners
with lining fabric
For each snap half, cut a small circle of
lining fabric, slightly larger than the snap
half (1). Sew a line of short running stitches
along the edge of the piece (2) and do not
cut thread. Lay the snap half face down on
the wrong side of the lining fabric circle.
Pull the thread so that the lining covers the
snap smoothly. Use the thread to sew the
edges of the lining together, with crisscross
stitches (3). Hide the thread end securely.
Repeat for the second half of the snap.
Construction
Extra pattern, shaded pink, sheets
A1-A2
Pattern pieces 1 to 8
Size 34 3333
Size 36 4444
Size 38 55
Size 40 6666
Size 42 7777
2
3
NZ_BS1402_104T
Cutting layout
Stitch sleeve seams. On lower sleeve
edges, stitch 316" (5mm) from seam
allowances. Trim away seam allowances.
Stitch fringe strips to lower sleeve edges
and fray edges.
Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.
Cover snap fastener sections with lining
fabric (see instructions above). Sew top
halves of snaps to right front facing as
marked, taking even stitches and exiting
needle on fabric right side. Sew bottom
halves of snaps to left front edge in
corresponding positions.
104-
022015-US
Princess Seam
Boatneck Top
BS1402_104WS_Z
Nhschule
Read
Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
BurdaStyle
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Piqu, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36:
7
8yd (.8 m); sizes 38, 40, 42: 1 yd (.9 m)
Interfacing
Notions:
1 invisible zipper, 16" (40 cm) long; bias
tape, 158" (4 cm) wide: 20" (.5 m)
104.1-
022015-US
Flared Skirt
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1tq87kM
Materials
Boucl, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 36, 38,
40: 78yd (.8m); sizes 42, 44: 1yd (.9m)
Note: Select a fabric that will fray easily.
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: yd (.55m) for
all sizes
Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22cm) long
Note: See style 102-022015-US for the total
fabric required to make both skirt style 104.1022015-US and jacket style 102-022015-US.
Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric, right
sides together.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Pique:
1 center front, cut 1 on fold
2 side front, cut 2
3 center back, cut 2
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Lining: To cut side front skirt lining piece,
tape pattern pieces 2 and 3 together, and
for side back skirt lining, tape pieces 5 and
6 together.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Boucl:
1center front skirt, cut 1 on fold
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project instructions
Construction
On side front and back side skirt pieces,
stitch angled section seams (seam numbers
1 and 2).
Press seam allowances open. Stitch side
front skirt units to center front skirt and
stitch side back skirt units to center back
skirt. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch flounces to lower edges of skirt units.
Press seams open. Stitch right side seam.
Sew invisible zipper to left opening edges
(see instructions on page 66). Stitch left side
seam from lower edge to zipper opening.
Stitch lining seams, leaving zipper
opening as mirror image of skirt opening.
Narrowly hem skirt lining.
Upper skirt edge: With right sides
together, pull lining over skirt. Pin lining to
upper skirt edge. At zipper opening, turn
lining back 316" (5mm) before opening
edge, and pin to upper edge. Turn seam
allowances on skirt opening edges to
outside and pin to upper skirt edge, over
lining. Stitch along upper skirt edge. Turn
lining and opening seam allowances to
inside. Hand-stitch lining to zipper tapes.
Topstitch close to upper skirt edge.
With a small zigzag stitch, stitch 316"
(5mm) from lower flounce edge. Fray lower
edge of flounce up to stitching.
105-
022015-US
Pleated A-Line
Skirt
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1mdZXOe
70
burda style.com
Materials
Piqu, 54" (137cm) wide: 1yds (1.45m)
for all sizes
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: yd (.4m) for
all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22cm) long;
1 button
Note: To make both the skirt style 105022015-US and top style 104-022015-US,
you will need 258yds (2.35m) of 54"
(137cm) wide piqu and yd (.4m) of
140cm wide lining.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet.
Lengthen piece 22 as indicated. Cut out all
paper pieces.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Piqu:
21front yoke, cut 2
22front skirt, cut 1 on fold
23back yoke, cut 2
24back skirt, cut 1 on fold
a) waistband, with 1" (2.5cm) underlap: size
34: 2658" (67.5cm); size 36: 2818" (71.5cm);
size 38: 2978" (75.5cm); size 40: 31"
(79.5cm); size 42: 3278" (83.5cm) long; and
2" (6cm) wide, excluding seam allowances
Lining:
21 front yoke, cut 2
23 back yoke, cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Construction
Stitch center seam of yoke front, ending
stitching at seamline on lower edge. Press
seam allowances open. Stitch darts in back
yokes and press toward center.
On back yoke, sew invisible zipper in
place at opening edges (see instructions on
page 66) and stitch center seam.
Fold pleats in skirt panels in direction of
arrows and press. Baste pleats to upper edge.
Stitch yoke front to skirt front and stitch
yoke back to skirt back, clipping seam
allowance of skirt back into corner. Press
seam allowances up.
Stitch side seams (seam number 3).
On yoke lining, stitch center front seam,
center back seam below opening mark, darts,
and side seams. With wrong sides together,
105A-
022015-US
Cropped
Chambray
Blouse
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/TJr6MM
Materials
Chambray, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 34,
36: 1yds (1.3m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44:
158yds (1.40m)
Interfacing
Notions: 2 medium buttons and 2 small
buttons.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Trace
pocket from piece 1 as a separate pattern
piece. Cut out all paper pieces.
Pleat arrow on piece 2 is marked for size
34. For other sizes, mark pleat arrow
according to size lines. Buttonhole on piece
5 is marked for size 34. For other sizes,
mark buttonhole according to size lines.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
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project instructions
Construction
Stitch center front seam below slit
mark. Press seam allowances open and
press slit edges to inside. On slit edges,
turn edges of seam allowances under and
stitch in place as marked.
Fold pleats in upper back edge in
direction of arrows and baste.
Yoke: Pin one yoke to outer side of
upper back edge and pin second yoke to
wrong side of upper back edge. Stitch
yokes in place and press up. Stitch outer
yoke to upper edges of front. Press seam
allowances toward yoke. Turn edges of
inside yoke under and baste to attachment
seams. Baste open yoke edges together.
Topstitch yoke close to seams.
Collar with collar stand: With right sides
together, stitch collar pieces together along
outer edges, beginning at seam number 3.
Trim seam allowances. Turn collar right-side
out and press. Stitch one buttonhole for
smaller button at each collar corner. Lay
collar stand pieces right sides together with
collar in between. Stitch along front and
upper collar stand edges, beginning and
ending in front, exactly at attachment edge
seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn collar
stand right-side out. Stitch outer collar
stand piece to blouse neck edge. Press seam
allowances toward collar stand. Turn inside
collar stand edge under and baste to
attachment seam. Topstitch collar stand
close to all edges.
Patch pocket: Press hem allowance on
upper pocket edge to inside and stitch 1"
(2.5cm) from folded edge. Press seam
allowances on side and lower pocket edges
to inside. Edgestitch pocket in place on left
blouse front.
106-
022015-US
A-Line Skirt
with Pleated
Yoke
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Cutting layouts
Materials
Sizes 34-42
Preparation
Selvedges
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces as shown and pin in
place. Cut the following numbered pieces:
Metallic jacquard:
21 front yoke, cut 2
Selvedges
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project instructions
Construction
Pleats: On pleat pieces (a), chalk-mark
placement lines and fold lines for pleats
along one 23" (60cm) long edge. Handbaste pleat lines to make these lines visible
on right side. Mark lowest placement line
5
8" (1.5cm) from edge; mark fold line
2" (6cm) from placement line; mark
next placement line 1" (3cm) from
preceding line; mark fold line 2" (6cm)
from placement line, etc. along height
of piece. Fold fabric on bottom fold line,
wrong sides together. Baste fold, then
baste fold edge to bottom placement
line. Fold fabric on second fold line, baste
fold, and baste to second placement line,
etc. Press pleat pieces. Repeat for both
pleat pieces.
Pin pattern piece for front yoke to pleated
fabric right sideonce with printed side facing
up, once with printed side facing down,
aligning pleat locations and with attachment
edge of yoke on bottom pleat fold. Cut out.
Lay pleated pieces on corresponding
yoke pieces, with wrong side facing right
side, and baste together along all edges.
With right sides together, lay yoke pieces
together and pin center front seam. Stitch,
ending exactly at marked yoke attachment
line. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch darts in back yokes and press
toward center.
On back yoke, sew invisible zipper in
place at opening edges (see instructions on
page 66) and stitch center seam.
Fold pleats in skirts in direction of arrows
and press. Baste pleats to upper edge.
Stitch yoke front to skirt front and stitch
yoke back to skirt back, clipping seam
allowance of skirt back into corner. Leave
lower front yoke pleat fold free. Press seam
allowances up.
Stitch side seams (seam number 3).
Yoke lining: Stitch center front lining
seam; center back seam below opening
mark, darts, and side seams. With right sides
together, pin yoke lining to upper skirt edge.
At opening edges, fold seam allowances to
outside 316" (5mm) before marked seamline,
and pin. Fold seam allowances at skirt
opening edges to outside, together with
zipper, and pin to upper edge of skirt, over
lining. Stitch skirt upper edge. Trim seam,
turn lining up and understitch, close to
attachment seam. Fold yoke lining and seam
allowances to inside. Turn yoke lining edges
under and hand-stitch to zipper tape and
skirt attachment seam.
Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place.
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106.1-
022015-US
X-Wrap Dress
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1oi4Vbk
Materials
Washed silk, 54" (137cm) wide: 258yds
(2.35m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 1 invisible
zipper, 16" (40cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Washed silk:
21front with shawl collar, cut 1 on fold
21pocket, cut 4
22back, cut 1 on fold
23sleeve, cut 4
24front neck facing, cut 1 on fold
25back neck facing, cut 1 on fold
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse " (2cm) squares to wrong side at
front inner shawl points. Fuse bias stay tape
to armhole and zipper opening edges.
Construction
Stitch back darts and press toward center.
Front, shawl collar pieces: On front
piece, fold seam allowance at point of
neck edge (center front) down and press.
Clip seam allowances of bottom points
between marked stitching lines to 2"
(5cm) before ends (1). With right sides
together, fold cut-on shawl on fold line.
Pin shawl pieces together from marking
(seam number 1) to bottom point. Pin
front edges together from bottom point
to pressed-under seam allowance at
marked neck edge (2). Turn front back at
seam and pin in place (3). Fold second
shawl piece the same and stitch seams.
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project instructions
107-
022015-US
Slim Ladies
Jacket
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Stretch jacquard, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes
36, 38, 40: 2yds (2.05m); sizes 42, 44:
238yds (2.1m)
Stretch lining, 54" (137cm) wide: 158yds
(1.4m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: Lightweight shoulder pads; 3 large
sew-on snap fasteners
Note: To make both jacket style 107022015-US and skirt style 109-022015-US,
you will need: sizes 36, 38: 338yds (3m);
sizes 40, 42, 44: 3yds (3.1m) of 54"
(137cm) wide stretch jacquard, and 258yds
(2.25m) of 54" (137cm) wide lining.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Cutting layouts
Jacquard, 54" (137cm) wide
Fold
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Jacquard:
1center front, cut 2
1 front facing, cut 2
2side front, cut 2
3center back, cut 2
4side back, cut 2
5upper sleeve, cut 2
6under sleeve, cut 2
7collar, cut 2 on fold
8collar stand, cut 2 on fold
9pocket, cut 2
10back facing, cut 1 on fold
Lining:
1 center front, cut 2, minus front facing
width
2 side front, cut 2
3 center back, minus neck facing width and
with " (2cm) center back ease pleat
4 side back, cut 2
Selvedges
Cut from a
double layer
of fabric,
right sides
together.
Selvedges
Construction
Stitch center back seam, leaving vent area
open. Press seam allowances of center seam
open and press left vent facing to inside. Turn
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project instructions
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107A-
022015-US
Evening
Jumpsuit
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1ttR8xT
Materials
Crpe, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 36, 38:
338yds (3m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 358yds
(3.25m) white; yd (.4m) gray for
neckline insert
Lining scrap, to cover snaps
Interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper, sizes 36, 38, 40: 7"
(18cm); sizes 42, 44: 8" (20cm) long; 4
large sew-on snap fasteners; 6 small sew-on
snap fasteners
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-13 from pattern sheet.
Lengthen pieces 8 and 11 as indicated. Cut
out all paper pieces. Stitching line at zipper
opening is marked for size 36. Remark
stitching line for sizes 38 44 same
distance from center front as for size 36,
noting opening length.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Crpe:
1front with cut-on back yoke, cut 2
2back, cut 2
3front sleeve, cut 2
4back sleeve, cut 2
5collar, cut 2 on fold
6front facing, cut 2
7back facing, cut 1 on fold
8front trouser, cut 2
9large pocket, cut 2
10small pocket, cut 2
11back trouser, cut 2
12waistband, cut 2
13front insert, cut 1 on fold
a) left underlap: sizes 36, 38, 40: 7"
(19cm); sizes 42, 44: 838" (21cm) long;
and 3" (7cm) wide, excluding seam
allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Also interface sleeve hem allowances.
Construction
Stitch center back seam and back darts.
Stitch lower front darts. Press seam
allowances open, press darts toward center.
Stitch front cut-on back yokes to back. Press
seam allowances toward yokes.
Stitch facing shoulder seams. Press seam
allowances open.
Notched collar: Pin facing right sides
together with bodice. Build a little extra
fullness into lapel corners. Stitch from
marking along lapel edges and along front
edges, first leaving seam open at bottom 6"
(15cm) long. Leave facing lying right sides
together with bodice. Clip front lapel darts
open along middle 2" (5cm) long. Stitch
collar pieces together along outer edges,
building a little extra fullness into top collar.
Turn collar right-side out. Lay collar
between upper garment and facing. Stitch
undercollar to front neck edge from
marking to each corner. Press seam
allowances open. Stitch undercollar to neck
edge from center back to each side, and
continue to stitch darts. Press seam
allowances of collar joining seam open,
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project instructions
108-
022015-US
Cap Sleeve
Dress with
Faux Top
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1ohTYGN
Materials
Cotton stretch satin, 60" (152.5cm) wide
with pattern repeat of 16" (40cm): 338yds
(3m) for all sizes or fabric with no pattern
repeat, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 1yds (1.6m)
Interfacing
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 1 invisible
zipper 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-10 from pattern sheet. Trace
facing from pieces 1 and 2 as separate
pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Match fabric patterning
if needed. Cut the following numbered
pieces:
Cotton satin:
1 center front with integrated peplum,
cut 2
1 center front peplum facing, cut 2
2 side front with integrated peplum,
cut 2
2 side front peplum facing, cut 2
3 center front skirt, cut 1 on fold
4 side front skirt, cut 2
5 center back, cut 2
6 side back, cut 2
7 sleeve front, cut 2
8 sleeve back, cut 2
9 front neck facing, cut 2
10 back neck facing, cut 2
a) 2 bias facing strips for armhole edges,
each 8" (20cm) long, and 158" (4cm) wide
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse interfacing to wrong side of neck
facing pieces.
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project instructions
Construction
Stitch side fronts to center fronts. Stitch
side front peplum facings to center front
peplum facings. Press seam allowances
open.
Neck and peplum edges, center front
seam: With right sides together, lay peplum
facings on front piece lower edges. Stitch
together lower and front edges as
continuous seams, up to seam marks. Lay
each front neck facing on neck edge, right
sides together. Beginning at seam mark, pin
together along front edge, then continue
pinning neck edges together, up to armhole
edges. Stitch. Trim seam allowances. Turn
neck facings to inside. With right sides
together, stitch center front seam between
seam marks.
Stitch center front seam on peplum
facing and neck facing. Unfold front the
facings lie right sides together with front
again. Press allowances open. On peplum,
trim seam allowances on facing attachment
edge. Turn peplum facing to inside. Press
edges.
On front skirts, stitch section seams.
Press seams open.
Horizontal seam: With right sides
together, lay skirt front on peplum facing.
Stitch marked seamlines on upper skirt
edge and facing together, leaving fronts
free. Neaten seam allowances together.
Loosely hand-stitch upper skirt edge to
seam allowances of center front seam and
section seams. Baste side edges of skirt and
peplum together.
Back section seams: With right sides
together, lay side back pieces on center back
pieces. Pin section seams (seam number 3).
Stitch. Press seam allowances open.
Invisible zipper and center back seam:
Insert invisible zipper in center back opening
edges (see instructions on page 66). Stitch
center back seam from the lower edge to
zipper. Press seam allowances open and
neaten edge of seam allowances.
Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances
open.
Sew top sleeve seams (seam number 7).
Press seam allowances open.
With wrong sides together, fold bias
strips for sleeve neck edges of sleeves in
half lengthwise and press. Pin folded bias
strips to sleeve neck edges so that folded
edge of each strip lies on garment piece,
3
8" (1cm) past seamline. Stitch along
seamlines. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias
strips to inside. Press. Hand-stitch folded
edge in place.
76
burda style.com
108.1-
022015-US
Wings Dress
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1mdOOgk
Materials
Piqu, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 36, 38,
40: 1yds (1.5m); sizes 42, 44: 178yds
(1.7m)
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: 118yds (1m) for
all sizes
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; invisible
zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-30 from pattern sheet.
Trace facing and pocket piece from piece 28
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Piqu:
21center front, cut 1 on fold
22side front, cut 2
23front yoke, cut 2 on fold
24center back, cut 2
25side back, cut 2
26back yoke, cut 4
27front skirt, cut 1 on fold
28front overskirt, cut 2
28 facing, cut 2
28 pocket, cut 2
29center back skirt, cut 2
30side back skirt, cut 2
Lining:
21 center front, cut 1 on fold
22 side front, cut 2
24 center back, cut 2
25 side back, cut 2
27 front skirt, cut 1 on fold
29 center back skirt, cut 2
30 side back skirt, cut 2
Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to outer yoke
neck edges.
Construction
Stitch bust darts, press darts up. Stitch
front and back bodice section seams. Press
seam allowances in front toward side
pieces, press seam allowances in back
toward center pieces.
Stitch outer front yoke to front, stitch
outer back yokes to back pieces. Press seam
allowances toward yokes.
Stitch bodice side seams. Press seam
allowances toward back.
Stitch darts in front skirt, press darts
toward center. Press front skirt hem
allowance to inside and loosely hand-stitch
in place. Stitch section seams on back skirt.
Press seam allowances toward center.
Clip side seam allowance on overskirt
panels diagonally toward pocket opening
ends. Press seam allowance at pocket
opening edges to inside. Topstitch pocket
opening edges 38" (1cm) from fold. Baste
pocket pieces on underside of overskirt
panels, seam allowance extending at pocket
opening edge. Stitch pocket pieces from
right side as marked. Stitch across bottom
of each pocket opening to line of stitching.
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project instructions
109-
022015-US
Pencil Skirt
with Zip Fly
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Stretch jacquard, 54" (137cm) wide:
118yds (1m) for all sizes
Stretch lining, 54" (135cm) wide: 1yd
(.9m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper, 6" (15cm) long; 1 sewon skirt hook set
Note: See style 107-022015-US for the total
fabric required to make both skirt style 109022015-US and jacket style 107-022015-US.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-4 from pattern sheet. Trace
pocket from piece 1 as a separate pattern
piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching
line at zipper opening is marked for size 34.
For sizes 36 44, mark stitching line same
distance from center front as for size 34.
Front skirt lining: On paper pattern piece for
hip yoke (2), cut off pocket piece along
placement line. Tape lower edge of hip yoke
to front skirt panel. This will create a space
at the top which will be marked and folded
later as a pleat.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Jacquard:
1front skirt, cut 2
2side hip yoke with integrated pocket, cut 2
3back skirt, cut 2
4back yoke, cut 2
a) waistband, with 1" (3cm) underlap:
size 34: 29" (74cm); size 36: 30"
(78cm); size 38: 32" (82cm); size 40:
34" (86cm); size 42: 35" (90cm); size
44: 37" (94cm) long; and 2" (5cm) wide,
excluding seam allowances
b) left underlap piece, 638" (16cm) long,
and 2" (5cm) wide, excluding seam
allowances
Lining:
1 and 2, placed together and without slit
allowance
1 pocket, cut 2
3 back skirt, cut 2
4 back yoke, cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.
Construction
Hip yoke pockets: With right sides
together, stitch pockets to pocket opening
edges of front skirt pieces. Trim seam
allowances. Turn pockets to inside. Topstitch
close to pocket opening edges. Pin pocket
opening edges to side hip yokes at
placement lines. Stitch pocket pieces
together. Baste pockets to wrong sides of
Cutting layouts
NZ_BS1402_109-2T
Selvedges
Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric, right
sides together.
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project instructions
109.1-
022015-US
Knit V-Neck
Pullover
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Preparation
Materials
Cutting
Construction
NZ_BS1404_109-1T
Cutting layouts
Selvedge
Sizes 40 44
Fold
022015-US
Lace Dress
with Faux Top
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Selvedges
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project instructions
Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Construction
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Lace:
1center front with peplum, cut 2
2side front with peplum, cut 2
3center front skirt, cut 1 on fold
4side front skirt, cut 2
5center back, cut 2
6side back, cut 2
7sleeve front, cut 2
8sleeve back, cut 2
Place lower sleeve edges on lace scalloped
edge.
a) scalloped hem edge strip, 43" (110cm)
long, and 158" (4cm) wide cut from
scalloped lace edge
Silk dupioni:
1center front with peplum, cut 2
1 center front peplum facing, cut 2
2side front with peplum, cut 2
2 side front peplum facing, cut 2
3center front skirt, cut 1 on fold
4side front skirt, cut 2
5center back, cut 2
6side back, cut 2
11front neck facing, cut 2
12back neck facing, cut 2
b) 2 bias strips for sleeve neck edges: 8"
(20cm) long, and 158" (4cm) wide,
Cutting layouts
Silk dupioni,
60"
NZ_BS1403_109T
(152.5 cm) wide
Fold
Selvedge
Fold
Selvedge
Scallops
Scallops
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project instructions
110-
022015-US
Dress with Top
and Train
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/11QM7JX
Materials
Embroidered organza with two scalloped
edges, 45" (114.5cm) wide: 7yds (6.4m)
for all sizes
Duchesse satin, 60" (152.5cm) wide, for
lining: 438yds (4m) for all sizes
80
burda style.com
Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1, 2, 5-8, and 11-15 from
pattern sheet. Lengthen pieces 13 and 15
as indicated. Join the end points on piece
15. For hem curve, measure given length
down from center of straight line and mark
shallow curve for hem edge. Trace peplum
facings from pieces 1 and 2 as separate
pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Embroidered organza:
1center front with peplum, cut 1 on fold
2side front with peplum, cut 2
5center back, cut 1 on fold
6side back, cut 2
7sleeve front, cut 2
8sleeve back, cut 2
13front skirt panel, cut 1 on fold
14center back skirt, cut 2
15side back skirt, cut 2
a) scalloped hem edge strip: size 36: 170"
(430cm); size 38: 172" (435cm); size 40:
174" (440cm); size 42: 176" (445cm); size
178" (450cm) long; and 158" (4cm) wide
from scalloped edge
Place neck edges of center front and center
back piece on fabric scalloped edge so
scallops extend and center front/center back
each lie exactly between two scallops. Place
upper edges of sleeve front and sleeve back
on scalloped edge in same manner. Make
sure scallops match at seams.
Satin:
1center front with peplum, cut 2
1 center front peplum facing, cut 2
2side front with peplum, cut 2
2 side front peplum facing, cut 2
5center back, cut 1 on fold
6side back, cut 2
11front neck facing, cut 2
12back neck facing, cut 1 on fold
13front skirt, cut 1 on fold
14center back skirt, cut 2
Construction
With right sides together, lay front neck
facings on satin fronts. Stitch along neck
edge, above each seam mark, as far as
armhole. At seam marks, turn lower facing
ends up and pin. Stitch center front seam
between markings. Remove pins. Stitch
facing center seam. Turn facing to inside and
press edges. Press seam allowances open.
With right sides together, lay back neck
facing on center back of satin. Pin. Stitch
along neck edge. Turn facing to inside and
press edge.
Lay embroidered organza center front on
satin center front, with wrong side facing
right side scalloped edge extends past
faced neck edge. Baste side and lower
edges together, leaving seam allowance of
center front and facings free. Baste
embroidered organza center back to satin
center back as for center front. Baste side
front and back pieces of organza to
corresponding pieces of satin, with wrong
side facing right side. Treat these pieces
each as one layer for construction.
Stitch side fronts to center front. Stitch
side backs to center back. On peplum
facing, stitch center front seam above seam
mark. Stitch side front peplum facing pieces
to center front peplum facing piece. Press
seams open.
With right sides together, lay peplum
facing on lower front edge (integrated
peplum). On one half of peplum, stitch
exactly from marked upper seamline along
side, lower, and front edges. Above curve,
stitch to 116" from marked seamline, leaving
free seam allowance of center seam. Stitch
other half of peplum in same manner. Trim
seam allowances. At center front, carefully
cut organza fabric between lines of
stitching. Leave peplum facing lying on
front, right sides together. Fold seam
allowance on upper facing edge down and
pin in place. On left side edge, clip
allowance of front close to last stitch.
Stitch sleeve seams as French seams: Lay
fabric pieces wrong sides together. Stitch
seam allowances 18" (4mm) from edge.
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project instructions
Construction
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above marking by pressing with a
steam iron or under a damp cloth until they
are as long as on front trouser pieces.
Stitch back darts and press toward center.
With wrong sides together, fold front
trouser pieces lengthwise and press
creases. Lay pleats in arrow direction and
baste. Stitch center front seam from
upper edges 4" (10cm) long, beginning
at upper edge exactly on seamline. Press
seam allowances open.
110A-
022015-US
Skinny Pants
with Hip Yoke
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Silk crpe, 54" (137cm) wide: 2yds
(2.05m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22cm) long
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Trace
pocket piece from piece 2 to placement line
as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all
paper pieces.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Silk crpe:
1front trouser, cut 2
2side hip yoke with cut-on pocket,
cut 2
2 pocket, cut 2
3back trouser, cut 2
4front waistband, cut 2 on fold
5back waistband, cut 4
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Interface outer waistband pieces.
NZ_BS1404_110T
Cutting layout
Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric, right
sides together. Cut the pieces shown
extending over the fabric fold last from a
single layer of remaining fabric.
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project instructions
111-
022015-US
Square-Neck
Top
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1nWxXug
82
burda style.com
Materials
Boucl knit, 54" (137cm) wide: 1 8yds
(1.2m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notion: Fusible bias stay tape
3
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Cut
apart piece 3 on the marked seamline to
make sleeve front and sleeve back. Cut out
all paper pieces.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Boucl knit:
1front, cut 1 on fold
2back, cut 1 on fold
3sleeve front, cut 2
3sleeve back, cut 2
4front facing, cut 1 fold
5back facing, cut 1 on fold
a) 2 sleeve ruffles: size 34: 19" (49cm);
size 36: 19" (50cm); size 38: 20"
(51cm); size 40: 20" (52cm); size 42:
21" (53cm) long; and 8" (20cm) wide,
excluding seam allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse bias stay tape to wrong side of
armhole edges.
Construction
Stitch bust darts. Press darts down.
Stitch side seams (seam number 1). Stitch
lower sleeve seams (seam number 2). Press
seams open. Stitch sleeves to armhole edges,
beginning and ending at marked neck edge.
Press seam allowances open, from upper
edges to beginning of underarm curves.
Stitch upper sleeve seams (seam number 5).
Press seam allowances open.
Stitch neck facing shoulder seams. With
right sides together, pin neck facing to neck
edge. Stitch along marked neck edge. Trim
seam allowances. Understitch facing, close
to seam. Turn facing to inside, and handstitch to seams.
On each sleeve ruffle piece, stitch
narrow edges together. With wrong sides
together, fold ruffle in half lengthwise and
press. Gather ruffle upper edges and stitch
111.1-
022015-US
Oversized
Cardigan
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1nYH4eZ
Materials
Boucl knit, 60" (152.5cm)) wide: size
34/36: 258yds (2.4m); size 38/40: 2yds
(2.5m); size 42/44: 278yds (2.60m)
Knit lining fabric, 12" 24" (30 60cm)
Notion: Fusible bias stay tape
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces from pattern sheet. Lengthen
piece 21 as indicated. Cut out all paper pieces.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Boucl knit:
21front, cut 2
22back, cut 1 on fold
23sleeve, cut 2
24back facing, cut 1 on fold
25pocket, cut 2
a) hem band: size 34/36: 39" (100cm);
size 38/40: 42" (108cm); size 42/44:
45" (116cm) long; and 9" (24cm)
wide, excluding seam allowances
b) neck band: size 34/36: 17" (44.5cm);
size 38/40: 18" (46.5cm); size 42/44:
1918" (48.5cm) long; and 2" (5cm) wide,
excluding seam allowances
c) 2 sleeve bands: size 34/36: 8"
(20.5cm); size 38/40: 8" (21.5cm); size
42/44: 9" (22.5cm) long; and 6" (16cm)
wide, excluding seam allowances
Lining:
25 pocket, cut 2, minus width of facing
Fusible bias stay tape:
Fuse to wrong side of neck and armhole
edges, and front shoulder seam edges.
SPRING 2015
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project instructions
Construction
Stitch shoulder seams. Press seam
allowances open.
Stitch sleeves to armhole edges. Trim
seam allowances to " (6mm), neaten
edges together, and press toward sleeves.
Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as
continuous seams.
With right sides together, fold hem band
lengthwise. Stitch across ends. Turn rightside out. Stitch hem band edges together to
lower jacket edge, stretching to match.
Begin and end stitching at facing fold line.
Leave hem band lying on jacket.
With right sides together, fold neck band
lengthwise. Stitch across ends. Turn rightside out. Press neck band to shape, easing
folded edge and stretching attachment
edges. Baste neck band edges together to
neck edge, beginning and ending at facing
fold lines. Leave neck band lying on jacket.
Turn front self-facings to outside and
stitch to back facing. Pin, then stitch facing
to neck edge, over neck band, and to lower
edge, over hem band. Turn facing to inside.
Turn hem band down and turn neck band
up. Press edges. Baste inside edge of facing
in place, then stitch in place, working from
garment right side.
Patch pockets: Stitch pocket linings to selffacings, leaving 2" (5cm) open for turning.
Turn facings and lining to outside and stitch
to side and lower pocket edges. Turn pockets
right-side out. Sew seam openings closed.
Edgestitch pockets to jacket.
Stitch ends of each sleeve band together.
With wrong sides together, fold sleeve bands
in half. Stitch sleeve band edges together to
lower sleeve edges, stretching sleeve bands
to fit. Turn seam allowances up.
111A-
022015-US
Funnel-Neck
Top
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1sRwoWu
Materials
Fine stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
1yds (1.3m) for all sizes
Interfacing scrap
Notion: Twin stretch needle, size 2.5/75
Preparation
Trace pieces 21 and 22 from pattern sheet.
Note different lines for right and left sleeves
on piece 22. Cut out all paper pieces.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch jersey:
21front and back with cut-on collar,
cut 1 on fold
22right sleeve, cut 1
22left sleeve (printed pattern side face
down), cut 1
Interfacing:
Fuse a 1" (3cm) strip of interfacing to
wrong side of front and back over marked
slash line. Fuse a 58" (1.5cm) strip of
interfacing to right armhole edge.
Construction
Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch
stitch, narrow zigzag or serging. To keep
hems flexible, stitch with a twin needle.
Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 1).
Trim seam allowances to " (6mm),
neaten edges together and press to one
side. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside.
From the right side, stitch 1" (3cm) from
fold using twin needle.
Mark fabric fold line on front and back near
marked slash line with basting stitches. Slash
front and back as marked. Pin left sleeve to cut
edges, first pinning sleeve seam to lower
marked fabric fold line and pinning seam mark
(upper sleeve edge) to upper marked fabric
fold line. Spread cut edges apart. Pin sleeve
edges " (6mm) on cut edges and stitch.
Neaten seam allowance at upper collar
edge.
Stitch right shoulder seam and collar
seam each as a French seam: Lay fabric
pieces wrong sides together and stitch a "
(6mm) seam. Press seam allowances open.
Lay pieces right sides together, with the
seam lying exactly along fold. Stitch 38"
(9mm) from folded edge along marked
seamline. Press seam allowances to one side.
Stitch right side seam. Trim seam
allowances, neaten edges together, and
press toward back.
Set in right sleeve.
112-
022015-US
Workout Pants
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Fine jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 36,
38: 1yds (1.45cm); sizes 40, 42, 44:
178yds (1.65m)
Interfacing scrap
Notions: Elastic, 158" (4cm) wide: sizes 36,
38: 1yd (.9m); size 40: 118yd (.95m); sizes
42, 44: 1yds (1.1m); cord, 316" (5mm)
diameter: size 36: 158yds (1.4m); sizes 38,
40, 42, 44: 1yds (1.6m)
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-24 from cutting sheet. Trace
pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate
pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.
Stitching lines on piece 21 are marked for
size 36. For sizes 38 44, mark stitching
lines same distance from center front as for
size 36.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Fine jersey:
21front trouser, cut 2
21 pocket, cut 2
22side hip yoke with integrated pocket,
cut 2
23back trouser, cut 2
24back pocket, cut 2
a) waistband: size 36: 33" (85cm); size
38: 35" (89cm); size 40: 36" (93cm);
size 42: 38" (97cm); size 44: 39"
(101cm) long; and 4" wide, excluding
seam allowances
b) 4 bands for trouser legs: size 36: 8"
(22cm); size 38: 918" (23cm); size 40: 9"
(24cm); size 42: 10" (25cm); size 44:
SPRING 2015
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project instructions
Construction
Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch
stitch, narrow zigzag or serging.
Cutting layouts
Jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Sizes 36, 38
Fold
Selvedges
Sizes 40 44
Fold
Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric,
right sides together.
84
burda style.com
112.1-
022015-US
Funnel-Neck
Dress
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1FkxIC7
Materials
Stretch cloqu, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 34,
36, 38: 1yds (1.5m); sizes 40, 42:
2yds (2.20m)
Interfacing scrap
Notion: Twin stretch needle, size 2.5/75
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 21 and 22 from pattern sheet.
Note different lines for right and left sleeve
on piece 22. Cut out all paper pieces.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch cloqu:
21front and back with cut-on collar,
cut 1 on fold
22right sleeve, cut 1
22left sleeve (printed pattern side face
down), cut 1
Interfacing:
Fuse a 1" (3cm) strip of interfacing to
wrong side of front and back over marked
slash line. Fuse a 58" (1.5cm) strip of
interfacing to right armhole edge.
Construction
Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch
stitch, narrow zigzag or serging. To keep
hems flexible, stitch with a twin needle.
Stitch darts and press toward center.
Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 1).
Trim seam allowances to " (6mm),
neaten edges together and press to one
side. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside.
From the right side, stitch 1" (3cm) from
fold using twin needle.
SPRING 2015
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project instructions
113-
022015-US
Top with
Leather Trim
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1iSOzXj
Materials
Sweater knit or sweatshirt fabric, 54"
(137cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: 1yds
(1.1m); size 42: 1yds (1.3m)
Nappa leather or imitation leather, for
sleeve patches: 8" 10" (20 25cm)
Lining scrap, to cover snaps
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; grosgrain
ribbon, 1" (2.5cm) wide: 78yd (.7m); 4
sew-on snap fasteners; twin stretch needle,
size 2.5/75
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Note
different lines for right shoulder seam and
left shoulder fastening. Trace patch from
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Knit fabric:
21front, cut 1 on fold
22back, cut 1 on fold
23sleeve, cut 2
a) neck band: size 34: 15" (40cm); size 36:
16" (41cm); size 38: 16" (42cm); size 40:
17" (43cm); size 42: 17" (44cm) long; and
3" (7cm) wide, excluding seam allowances
b) upper left pocket, 4" (10cm) long, and
438" (11cm) wide
Note: First cut both halves of back same
size, from double fabric layer. Then, for
right shoulder seam, trim self-facing to 58"
(1.5cm) before marked right seam" line.
Leather/imitation leather:
23patch, cut 2
Fusible bias stay tape:
Fuse to wrong side of right front shoulder
seam edge.
Construction
Note: On stretch fabrics, stitch seams with a
stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or serging.
Stitch hems with a twin needle to keep
them flexible.
Patch pocket: Cut a 5" (14cm) piece
of grosgrain ribbon for the pocket. Lay
ribbon on upper pocket edge so edge lies
1
8" (3mm) from marked seamline.
Edgestitch ribbon in place. Turn ribbon/
seam allowance to inside and press edge.
Stitch lower ribbon edge in place. On
remaining pocket edges, finish seam
allowances and press to inside. Edgestitch
pocket to left front at placement line.
Stitch right shoulder seam. Neaten seam
allowances together and press forward.
With wrong sides together, fold neck
band in half. Stitch long edges together to
neck edge, stretching slightly to match.
Press seam allowances toward top.
Shoulder opening: Cut two pieces of
grosgrain ribbon, each: size 34: 978" (25cm);
size 36: 10" (25.5cm); size 38: 10" (26cm);
size 40: 10" (26.5cm); size 42: 10"
(27cm) long, for shoulder fastening. Lay one
ribbon piece on wrong side of seam allowance
underlap edge (left edge), leaving ribbon
extending 38" (1cm) past neck band folded
edge. Stitch ribbon in place, directly next to
114-
022015-US
Cumberbund
Skirt
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Poplin, 54" (137cm) wide: 158yds (1.4m)
for all sizes
SPRING 2015
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project instructions
NZ_BS1404_114T
Cutting
layout
Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric,
right sides together.
Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 16" (40cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet.
Lengthen pieces 1, 2, and 3 as indicated.
Cut out all paper pieces.
Welt joining line on piece 1 is marked for
size 34 only. Remark this line for other sizes
according to size lines.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
86
burda style.com
Poplin:
1center front skirt, cut 1 on fold
2side front skirt, cut 2
3back skirt, cut 2
4pocket, cut 4 (2 to lining line)
5front facing, cut 1 on fold
6back facing, cut 2
a) 4 bias welt strips, 718" (18cm) long, and
1" (3cm) wide, including seam
allowances
b) tie belt, total length: size 34: 57"
(146cm); size 36: 59" (150cm); size 38:
60" (154cm); size 40: 62" (158cm);
size 42" 63" (162cm); size 44: 65"
(166cm) long; and 3" (7cm) wide,
excluding seam allowances
c) 4 belt carriers, 12" (30cm) long, and
238" (6cm) wide, including seam
allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse 1" (3cm) interfacing strips over front
skirt pocket markings.
Construction
Welt pockets and front section seams:
Use basting thread to mark welt
placement lines " (6mm) from welt
joining lines (finished welt width) on right
side of center and side front skirt panels.
With wrong sides together, fold welt
strips lengthwise, press. Lay folded welt
strips on center and side front skirts so
folded edge of welts meet placement line
and welt ends extend evenly at corners.
Stitch welts each " (6mm) from folded
edge along joining lines, beginning and
ending exactly at corners. Clip seam
allowances diagonally toward each last
stitch. Do not cut into welts. Lay welts
into pocket openings and press. Mark
pocket opening ends on welt folded
edges 38" (1cm) from each seam end
(above upper end, below lower end). Fold
small fabric triangles at pocket opening
ends to inside and stitch to welts from
seam end to marking. Stitch front section
seams above and below pocket opening.
Press seam allowances open. Stitch
smaller pockets to front welt seam
allowances; stitch larger pocket pieces to
seam allowances of side welts. Topstitch
skirt panels close to welt joining seams.
Stitch pocket pieces together. Baste upper
pocket piece edges in place. Topstitch
skirt panels at pocket opening ends along
angled welt joining seams.
Stitch back darts and press toward
center.
Sew invisible zipper to back skirt opening
(see instructions on page 66). Stitch center
back seam from lower edge to zipper.
115-
022015-US
Structured
Peplum Top
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1pE9Ln4
Materials
Jacquard, 60" (152.5cm): 178yds (1.7m)
for all sizes
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 17, 18:
1yds (1.1m); sizes 19, 20, 21: 138yds
(1.15m)
Interfacing
Notions: Grosgrain ribbon, 2" (5cm) wide:
yd (.4m) for all sizes; 4 hook-and-eye
fasteners
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-10, 12, and 13 from pattern
sheet. Trace pocket piece from piece 5 as a
SPRING 2015
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project instructions
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Jacquard:
1center front, cut 2
2side front, cut 2
3center back, cut 1 on fold
4side back, cut 2
5front peplum, cut 4
5 pocket, cut 2
6back peplum, cut 2 on fold
7sleeve front, cut 2
8sleeve back, cut 2
9upper sleeve front, cut 2
10upper sleeve back, cut 2
12front facing, cut 2
13back facing, cut 1 on fold
Lining:
1 center front, cut 2 to lining line
2 side front, cut 2
3 center back, cut 1 on fold to lining line
and with " (2cm) center back ease pleat
4 side back, cut 2
5 pocket, cut 2
7 sleeve front, cut 2 to lining line
8 sleeve back, cut 2 to lining line
9 upper sleeve front, cut 2
10 upper sleeve back, cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Interface outer peplum pieces and sleeve
hem allowances.
Construction
Stitch front and back sections and side
seams. Stitch side seams of outer and inner
peplum pieces. Stitch facing shoulder
seams. Press all seams open.
Peplum attachment seam and in-seam
pockets: With right sides together, pin each
pocket lining piece to outer front peplum
pocket opening edge. Stitch to seam
allowance, 116" (1mm) from seamline.
Press pockets up and stitch to seam
allowances, close to seam. With right sides
together, lay jacquard pockets on fronts,
between seam marks. Stitch to seam
allowance, 116" (1mm) from seamline. Press
pocket pieces down. Stitch outer peplum to
fronts and to back, leaving pocket openings
free. Press seam allowances open. Press
pocket pieces down. Trim pocket pieces
evenly and stitch together.
115.1-
022015-US
Floral Skinny
Jeans
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Stretch twill, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 158yds
(1.45m) for all sizes
Waistband interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: 5"
(12cm); sizes 42, 44: 6" (14cm) long;
1 button
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Trace pocket drawn on piece 1 as a
separate pattern piece; trace piece 6 twice.
The zipper stitching line on piece 1 is drawn
for size 34. For other sizes, lay piece 6 on
front edge of piece 1 and transfer inner
edge of facing to mark stitching line.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch twill:
1 trousers front, cut 2
1 pocket piece, cut 2
2 hip yoke piece with integrated pocket,
cut 2
3 trousers back, cut 2
4 back yoke, cut 2
5 pocket, cut 2
6 facing and underlap, cut 4
a) waistband: size 34: 31" (79cm); size
36: 32" (83cm); size 38: 34" (87cm);
size 40: 36" (91cm); size 42: 37"
(95cm); size 44: 39" (99cm) long; and
3" (8cm) wide, including seam
allowances
(b) small pocket: 5" (13cm) high, and
4" (12cm) wide, including seam
allowances
(c) 5 belt loops, total: 16" (40cm), and 1"
(3cm) wide, including seam allowances
SPRING 2015
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project instructions
Interfacing:
Fuse interfacing to waistband wrong side.
Construction
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above marking by pressing with a
steam iron or under a damp cloth until they
are as long as on front trouser pieces.
Stitch yokes to back trousers (seam number
1). Finish edges of seam allowances together,
NZ_BS1403_115T
Cutting layout
Stretch twill, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Sizes 34 to 44
Fold
Selvedges
Cut
from a double layer of fabric, right
BS1403_115WS_Z
sides together.
88
burda style.com
115A-
022015-US
Wrap Blouse
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Crpe, 45" (114.5cm) wide: size 34:
178yds (1.65m); sizes 36, 39, 40, 42:
218yds (1.9m)
Notion: Fusible bias stay tape
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
SPRING 2015
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project instructions
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Crpe:
21front, cut 2
22back, cut 2
23sleeve, cut 2
a) bias strip for neck edge: size 34: 23"
(60cm); size 36: 24" (61cm); size 38:
24" (63cm); size 40: 25" (64cm); size
Cutting NZ_BS1404_115-1T
layouts
Crpe, 45" (114.5cm) wide
Size 34
Fold
Construction
Stitch bust darts, press darts up. Stitch
center back seam and side seams. Trim seam
allowances to " (6mm) and neaten edges
together. Press center seam allowances to one
side, press side seam allowances toward back.
Miter front hem corners: Lay hem
allowance and front edge seam allowance
outward, stitch at an angle. Trim miter seam
allowances to 316" (5mm) and press open.
Turn hem and front edges to inside and baste.
Topstitch front edges and hem edge
1" (3.5cm) from folded edges.
Pin right front to left front with wrong
side facing right side and matching centers.
Baste shoulder seams together.
Stitch shoulder seams. Press seam
allowances toward back.
Neck edge: With wrong sides together,
fold bias strip lengthwise and press. Turn in
one end of strip. Pin folded bias strip to
neck edge so that folded edge lies on
garment piece 38" (1cm) past seamline and
open end of strip lies over turned-in end at
one shoulder seam. Stitch along neck
seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias
strip to inside. Topstitch neck edge "
(6mm) from fold.
Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem
allowances to inside, stitch hem 1"
(3.5cm) from fold.
Set in sleeves.
116-
022015-US
Low-Rise
Cropped Pants
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/V2H8T1
Selvedges
Sizes 36 42
Fold
Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric, right
sides together. Cut the bias strip last
from a single layer of remaining fabric.
Materials
Wool tissue faille, 60" (152cm) wide: sizes
34, 36, 38: 138yds (1.2m); sizes 40, 42,
44: 158yds (1.4m)
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet.
Lengthen piece 1 as indicated. Cut out all
paper pieces.
Stitching line on piece 1 is marked for size 34.
Mark stitching line for sizes 36 44 at same
width. Buttonhole on piece 1 is marked for
size 34. Remark buttonhole for other sizes
accordingly. Pocket lines (welt pocket) on
piece 2 are marked in full for size 34 only.
Complete the pocket lines for other sizes
accordingly.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Wool tissue faille:
1front trouser, cut 2
3back trouser, cut 2
4back underlap, cut 2
5front facing, cut 1 on fold
6back facing, cut 2
a) bias welt strip for back pocket, 6"
(15cm) long, and 238" (6cm) wide,
including seam allowances
b) back pocket, 6" (15cm) wide, and 8"
(20cm) long, including seam allowances
c) bias strip for 1 loop, 4" (10cm) long, and
1" (3cm) wide, including seam
allowances
Lining:
2pocket, cut 2
d) back pocket, 6" (15cm) wide, and 5"
(13cm) long, including seam allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse a 158" (4cm) interfacing strip over
pocket marking on right back trouser.
Construction
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above marking by pressing with a
steam iron or under a damp cloth until they
are as long as on front trouser pieces.
Stitch darts on front and back trouser
pieces and press toward center.
With wrong sides together, fold front
trouser pieces lengthwise and press creases.
Press lengthwise edges of loop to wrong
side " (6mm). Fold fabric strip in half,
stitch edges together. Form fabric strip into
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project instructions
burda style.com
116B-
022015-US
Bustier Top
Wedding Dress
Cutting layout
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Jacquard, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 17,
18, 19: 2yds (1.8m); sizes 20, 21: 218yds
(1.85m)
Bodice lining, 54" (137cm) wide: yd
(.45m) for all sizes (without sleeves)
Interfacing
Lightweight batting or fleece
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-15 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric, right
sides together.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Jacquard:
1center front, cut 1 on fold
2side front, cut 2
3upper bust, cut 2
4center lower bust, cut 2
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project instructions
Construction
Stitch side fronts to center front (seam
number 1). Press seam allowances open.
Stitch center lower bust pieces to side
lower bust pieces. Press seam allowances
open. Stitch upper bust pieces to lower
bust units. Stitch upper side fronts to
upper bust pieces, from seam mark (seam
number 4). Press seam allowances open.
Beginning at seam number 5, stitch
upper side fronts and bust pieces to curved
attachment edges of front as continuous
seams. Clip front seam allowance into
corners. Stitch front edge of bust pieces to
front, beginning and ending at top, exactly
at marked neck edge. Trim attachment
seam allowances and press toward front.
Stitch side back pieces to center back
pieces, beginning exactly at seam mark
(seam number 6). Stitch bodice side seams
and shoulder seams. Press seam allowances
open.
Stitch section seams on front and back
skirts. Stitch side seams. Press seam
allowances open.
Stitch skirt to bodice. Press seam
allowances up.
Sew invisible zipper to back opening
edges (see instructions on page 66). Stitch
center back seam from lower edge to zipper.
Sew lining as for bodice.
With right sides together, pin lining to
dress neck edge. At zipper opening, turn
lining back 316" (5mm) before opening
edge, and pin to neck edge. On dress
117-
022015-US
Deep V-Neck
Top
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1iMJJLH
Materials
Crpe, 54" (137cm) wide: Size 34/36:
1yds (1.6m); sizes 38/40, 42/44: 178yds
(1.65m)
Interfacing
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-26, and 29 from pattern
sheet. Cut piece 21 apart on marked
seamline to make front and front yoke. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Pleat arrow on piece 22 is marked for size
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Crpe:
21front, cut 2
21front yoke, cut 2
22back, cut 2
23back yoke, cut 2 on fold
24front sleeve, cut 2
25center sleeve, cut 2
26back sleeve, cut 2
29front facing, cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.
Construction
Stitch center front seam, beginning on
upper edge, exactly at neck edge
seamline.
Stitch center back seam. Press seams
open. Lay upper back pleats in direction of
arrows and baste.
Stitch front yokes to front. Stitch outer
back yoke to back. Press seam allowances
toward yokes.
Stitch shoulder seams. Trim seam
allowances to " (6mm) wide, neaten
edges together, and press toward back.
On facing, stitch center front seam,
beginning on upper edge, exactly at marked
neck edge. Stitch front neck facing to inside
back yoke at shoulder seams. Press seam
allowances open.
With right sides together, pin front
neck facing and inside yoke to neck edge.
Stitch along neck edge. Trim seam
allowances. Turn facing and inside yoke to
inside and press edge. Turn inside yoke
edges under and sew to seams. Baste
armhole edges together. Hand-stitch
inside facing edges to seams.
Stitch center sleeve pieces to front and back
sleeve pieces. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch sleeves to armhole edges. Press
seam allowances toward sleeves.
Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as
continuous seams.
Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place. Press sleeve hem allowances
to inside, turn raw edges under, and stitch.
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project instructions
117.1-
022015-US
Criss-Cross
V-Neck Dress
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1lJBDmc
Materials
Stretch jacquard, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes
17, 18, 19: 178yds (1.7m); sizes 20, 21:
2yds (1.75m)
Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-29 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Note different lines for right and left edges
of back vent. Cut skirt panels same size
initially from double layer of fabric.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch jacquard:
21front with cut-on front band, cut 2
22back, cut 2
23back band, cut 2
24front skirt panel, cut 1 on fold
25back skirt panel, cut 2
26front sleeve, cut 2
27back sleeve, cut 2
28front neck facing, cut 2
29back neck facing, cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Construction
Stitch back darts on bodice and press
darts toward center. Sew invisible zipper to
back pieces from upper edges 6" (15cm)
long (see instructions on page 66).
Stitch shoulder and facings seams. Press
seam allowances open.
With right sides together, pin facings to
neck edges. Turn facings back at zipper 316"
(5mm) before opening edge, pin at neck
edge. Lay back opening seam allowance
edges outward and pin at neck edge, over
92
burda style.com
122-
022015-US
Tulle Wedding
Gown
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Tulle lace with two scalloped edges, 36"
(90cm) wide: 338yds (3m) for all sizes
Chiffon, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 12yds
(11.5m)
Lightweight crpe-back satin, 54" (137cm)
wide, to back the lace and as lining: sizes
72, 76: 2yds (1.8m); sizes 80, 84, 88:
218yds (1.9m)
Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long;
fusible bias stay tape
Note: The hem edge on this dress is
unfinished, to allow it to fray. If you prefer,
narrowly hem or press the hem edge to the
wrong side and finish the folded edge with
a small zigzag stitch instead.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. For
lining, trace pieces 21 and 22 each a second
time, only to marked lining line. Cut out all
paper pieces.
Diagrams:
Follow diagram on page 93 to make a fullsized pattern piece for skirt (a) and sleeve
(b). Use a large sheet of paper with right
angle edges (one on the fold) to draw a
quarter circle the measurements indicated.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Chiffon:
a) skirt, cut 8 on fold, following diagram
Lace:
21front, cut 1 on fold
22back, cut 2
23overskirt, cut 2 on fold
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project instructions
Diagrams
sleeve (b)
skirt (a)
Cutting layouts
Selvedge
NZ_BS1403_122T
Lay out a single layer of fabric,
wrong side up. Pieces with a
broken outline are placed on
the fabric printed sides down.
Scallops
Selvedge
SPRING 2015
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Center Fold
Center Fold
3834" (98.5cm)
Ra
di
us
Construction
Ra
di
us
38" (96.5cm)
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project instructions
128-
022015-US
Mens Linen
Jacket
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/V2Hzwy
Materials
Silk/linen blend, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes
48, 50: 2yds (2.5m); sizes 52, 54, 56:
278yds (2.6m)
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: 78yd (.75m) for
all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 3 large
buttons, 8 small buttons
Note: To make both jacket style 128022015-US and trousers style 129-022015US, you will need: sizes 48, 50: 5yds
(4.5m); sizes 52, 54: 5yds (4.65m); size
56: 538yds (4.9m) of 60" (152.5cm) wide
fabric, and 118yds (1m) of 54" (137cm)
wide lining fabric.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-12 from pattern sheet. Trace
pocket from piece 11 as a separate pattern
piece; mark welt joining line.
Vent stitching line on piece 3 is marked for
size 48. Remark stitching line for sizes 50 56
according to size lines.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Silk/linen blend:
1front, cut 2
94
burda style.com
Construction
Sew center back seam as a French seam:
Lay the backs wrong sides together and
stitch a 316" (5mm) wide seam. Press seam
allowances open. Lay pieces right sides
together, with the seam lying exactly along
the fold. Stitch along marked seamline 58"
(1.5cm) from folded edge. Press seam
allowances to one side.
Stitch side pieces to back, leaving vents
open. Press seam allowances and vent
allowances (facing and underlap) toward
back. Press seam allowances at lengthwise
edges of facing and underlap to inside, turn
half in, and stitch. Topstitch center back at
top of vents at a angle, catching underlaps.
Stitch darts in fronts and press toward
center.
Left front welt pocket: With right sides
together, fold welt lengthwise, stitch across
ends. Turn welt right-side out. Stitch welt
right sides together with front along marked
joining line so welt points down. Lay fabric
pocket on front opposite welt and stitch 38"
(1cm) from welt joining seam. This seam
should be " (6mm) shorter at the ends
than welt joining seam. Slash between lines
of stitching and clip diagonally toward each
last stitch. Do not cut into pocket piece. Pull
pocket to inside, press welt over pocket
opening. Stitch pocket lining piece to seam
allowances of welt joining seam on inside.
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project instructions
129-
022015-US
Mens Linen
Pants
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1qr9XW9
Materials
Silk/linen blend, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes
48, 50: 2yds (2m); sizes 52, 54: 238yds
(2.1m); size 56: 258yds (2.3m)
Lining , for pockets, 16" 26" (40 65cm)
Interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 48, 50, 52: 6"
(14cm); sizes 54, 56: 7" (16cm) long; 2
flat buttons
Note: See style 128-022015-US for total
fabric required to make up both trousers
style 129-022015-US and jacket style 128022015-US
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Trace
hem facings as separate pattern pieces. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Stitching line at zipper opening is marked
for size 48. Remark stitching line for sizes
50 56 same distance from center front as
for size 48, noting opening length.
Buttonhole on piece 1 is marked for size 48.
Remark buttonhole for other sizes
according to size lines.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Silk/linen blend:
1front trouser, cut 2
1 front hem facing, cut 2
2left opening facing, cut 1
3right opening underlap piece, cut 2
4pocket, cut 2
5back trouser, cut 2
5 back hem facing, cut 2
6back flap, cut 2
7front facing, cut 2
8back facing, cut 1 on fold
a) 4 back pocket welt strips, 6 38" (16cm)
long, and 1" (3cm) wide, including seam
allowances
b) 2 back pockets, 6 38" (16cm) wide, and
718" (18cm) long, including seam
allowances
c) 7 belt carriers, total: 21" (55cm) long,
and 158" (4cm) wide, including seam
allowances
Lining:
4 pocket, cut 2
b) back pocket, cut 2, as above
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse interfacing on only one flap and
underlap piece each. Fuse 1" (3cm) strips
Construction
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above marking by pressing with a
steam iron or under a damp cloth until they
are as long as on front trouser pieces.
Stitch back darts and press toward
center.
Right back welt pocket with flap: Mark
placement lines for welts each 316" (5mm)
(finished welt width) from welt joining lines.
Transfer these lines to right side with basting
thread. With wrong sides together, fold welt
strips lengthwise and press. Lay folded welt
strips on back trouser piece and pin so folded
edges meet placement lines. Stitch welts along
joining lines 316" (5mm) from folded edges.
Slash between lines of stitching and clip
diagonally toward each last stitch, but not
cutting into welts. Press welts into pocket
opening. Fold small fabric triangles at pocket
opening ends to inside and stitch to welts from
seam end to seam end. Stitch flap pieces right
sides together, leaving joining edge open. Turn
right-side out. Stitch buttonhole. Slip flap to
inside through pocket opening and stitch to
seam allowances close to upper welt joining
seam. Stitch pocket lining piece to lower welt
seam allowances, stitch fabric pocket to flap
and upper welt seam allowances. Trim pocket
pieces evenly and stitch together.
Construct welt pocket without flap on
left back trouser piece.
Working from wrong side, stitch pleats
in front trousers from upper edge to pleat
mark. Lay pleats in arrow direction and
press; baste at upper edge.
Stitch side seams, leaving pocket
openings free.
In-seam pockets: Pin pockets right sides
together with seam allowances at pocket
opening edges pocket lining pieces in
front, silk/linen pockets in back. Stitch
pockets along marked seamlines, stitch
pocket pieces close to seam above pocket
opening edges. Press pocket pieces forward
and stitch together. Baste upper pocket
edges. Stitch 38" (1cm) across pocket
opening ends.
Stitch inside leg seams. Stitch center
front seam below opening mark and center
back seam continuously. Stitch facing side
seams. Press seam allowance at lower
facing edge to inside.
With right sides together, fold belt carrier
strip lengthwise. Stitch 38" (1cm) from folded
edge. Turn right-side out. Topstitch close to
edges. Cut strip into 7 equal pieces. Baste one
belt carrier each on upper trousers edge at
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project instructions
132-
022015-US
Keyhole Blouse
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Pleat arrows on piece 21 are marked for
size 44. Remark pleat arrows for other sizes
accordingly.
Cutting
Blue pattern line, sheets C1-C2
Pattern pieces 21 to 23
Size 44 AAAAA
Size 46 ===
Size 48 CCC
Size 50 67 67
Size 52 EEEEE
Construction
NZ_BS1404_132T
Cutting layouts
Fold
Selv.
Fold
Selvedges
Sizes 50, 52
Fold
Selvedge
Selvedge
Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting
layoutright sides together on a double
layer; right side up on a single layer. Cut
right and left sleeves as opposites.
133-
022015-US
Blouse with
Pleated Neckline
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
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project instructions
Cutting layout
NZ_BS1404_133T
Fold
Selvedges
Fold
Selvedges
Materials
Cotton poplin, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
1yds (1.6m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 2 small
buttons
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-25 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Pleat arrows on piece 21 are marked for size
44. Remark pleat arrows for other sizes
accordingly.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Poplin:
21front, cut 1 on fold
22back, cut 1 on fold
23sleeve, cut 2
24collar, cut 4
25collar stand, cut 2 on fold
a) back slit binding strip, 9" (23cm) long, and
158" (4cm) wide, including seam allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse bias stay tape to front armhole and
shoulder seam edges.
Construction
Clip slit opening in center back.
Spread cut edges open to a straight line.
Beginning 18" (3mm) from upper edge,
stitch to binding strip, tapering stitching
toward slit end. Lay binding over joining
seam toward slit, fold to a width of 38"
(1cm) and press. Lay binding over slit
edge to inside and baste to joining seam.
Work from blouse right side to stitch
binding close to edge. Lay binding at
right slit edge to inside, baste at neck
edge. Binding extends at left slit edge as
underlap. Pin slit closed, stitch 38" (1cm)
across bottom end, catching binding.
Stitch bust darts, press darts down. Lay
front neck edge pleats in arrow direction and
baste. Stitch shoulder seams and side seams.
Stitch two collar pieces each together
along outer edges. Trim seam allowances.
Turn collar right-side out and press. Stitch
one collar stand piece to neck edge,
matching center back to slit edge on right,
and to joining seam of binding on left. Press
seam allowances toward collar stand. Baste
open edges of collar together and baste to
upper edge of collar stand, matching front
collar edges with center front and back ends
with collar stand center back. Press seam
allowance at lower edge of other collar
stand to inside. Lay collar stand pieces right
sides together, catching collar in between.
Stitch along back and upper collar stand
edges. Trim seam allowances, trimming
corners diagonally. Turn collar stand. Baste
inside edge of collar stand under. Topstitch
collar stand close to all edges. Stitch two
buttonholes in right end of collar stand.
Press hem allowance to inside, turn half
in width, and stitch.
Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem
allowances to inside, turn in edges, and stitch.
Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.
134A-
022015-US
Leather-Accent
Pants
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1nZ5sNJ
Materials
Cotton stretch twill, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
sizes 44, 46: 1yds (1.45cm); sizes 48, 50:
2yds (2m); size 52: 2yds (2.2m)
Stretch nappa leather. To make up this style,
you will need one leather skin with a total
of approx. 5 6 sq. ft. (1 sq. ft. = approx.
30 30cm). Take the pattern pieces with
you when buying the leather.
Alternative: Stretch faux leather, 54"
(137cm) wide: yd (.55m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 44, 46: 5" (12cm);
sizes 48, 50, 52: 6" (15cm) long; 1 trouser
hook fastener; 1 flat inside button
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet. Lengthen
pieces 1 and 4 as indicated. Trace pocket from
piece 3 as a separate pattern piece to
placement line. Cut out all paper pieces.
Stitching line at zipper opening on piece 1
is marked for size 44. Remark stitching line
for sizes 46 52 same distance from center
front as for size 44, noting opening length.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch twill:
1front trouser, cut 2
3pocket, cut 2
4back trouser, cut 2
a) left underlap: sizes 44, 46: 5" (13cm);
sizes 48, 50, 52: 6" (15cm) long; and 4"
(11cm) wide, excluding seam allowances
Leather or imitation leather:
2front yoke, cut 2
3side hip yoke with cut-on pocket, cut 2
5back yoke, cut 2
6front waistband, cut 4
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project instructions
Construction
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above marking by pressing with a
steam iron or under a damp cloth until they
are as long as on front trouser pieces.
Stitch front yokes to front trousers.
Stitch back yokes to back trousers. Press
seam allowances toward yokes.
Hip yoke pockets: With right sides
together, stitch pockets to pocket front
trouser opening edges. Lay pockets up and
understitch close to seam. Turn pockets to
inside. Pin pocket opening edges to side hip
yokes at placement lines. Stitch pocket
pieces together on inside. Baste pockets to
underside of front trouser pieces, first
cutting off allowance of right pocket piece
along center front.
Stitch side seams and inside leg seams.
Press seam allowances open. Stitch center front
seam from opening mark to inside leg seam.
Zipper: Press self-facings to inside, stitch
on right along center front and stitch on left
3
16" (5mm) before center front. Stitch
zipper under left opening edge (underlap),
stitching close to teeth. Pin opening closed,
matching centers. Pin loose zipper tape to
right facing, leaving trouser free. Baste
facing. Topstitch opening from upper edge
to 1" (3cm) before end as marked. With
right sides together, fold underlap piece
lengthwise, stitch across bottom end. Turn
right-side out. Lay underlap under left
opening edge, pin to facing. Stitch facing to
underlap, close to zipper joining seam. Lay
opening closed again and topstitch to end,
catching underlap.
Stitch center back seam. Press seam
allowances open from upper edges to
beginning of curve.
Waistband: Stitch center back and side
seams of waistband. Press seam allowances
open. Stitch outer waistband to upper
trousers edge, leaving right waistband end
extending from center front and stitch left
waistband end to underlap of opening edge.
Press seam allowances toward waistband.
Lay inside waistband pieces right sides
together with stitched waistband pieces,
stitch upper edges together. Lay inside
waistband pieces up. Press seam allowances
open. Trim extending right waistband end to
3
8" (1cm) before center front. Attach
trousers hook to inside waistband spaced 38"
(1cm) from right front end. Lay inside
waistband to outside. Lay seam allowance at
inside waistband edge up at front waistband
98
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134B-
022015-US
Animal Print
Bootcut Pants
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Cotton stretch twill (striped), 60"
(152.5cm) wide: sizes 44, 46: 1yds
(1.45cm); sizes 48, 50: 2yds (2m); size
52: 2yds (2.20m)
Plain cotton stretch twill, 60" (152.5cm)
wide: yd (.55m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 44, 46: 5" (12cm);
sizes 48, 50, 52: 6" (15cm) long; 1 trouser
hook fastener; 1 flat inside button
NZ_BS1404_134T
Cutting layouts
Selvedges
Sizes 48, 50
Fold
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet. Trace
pocket from piece 3 as a separate pattern
piece to placement line. Cut out all paper
pieces. Stitching line at zipper opening on
piece 1 is marked for size 44. Remark
stitching line for sizes 46 52 same
Selvedges
Size 52
Fold
Fold
Selvedges
Selvedges
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project instructions
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Striped stretch twill:
1front trouser, cut 2
3pocket, cut 2
4back trouser, cut 2
a) left underlap: sizes 44, 46: 5" (13cm);
sizes 48, 50, 52: 6" (15cm) long; and 4"
(11cm) wide, excluding seam allowances
Plain stretch twill:
2front yoke, cut 2
3side hip yoke with cut-on pocket, cut 2
5back yoke, cut 2
6front waistband, cut 4
7back waistband, cut 4
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Construction
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above marking by pressing with a
steam iron or under a damp cloth until they
are as long as on front trouser pieces.
Stitch front yokes to front trousers.
Stitch back yokes to back trousers. Press
seam allowances toward yokes.
Hip yoke pockets: With right sides
together, stitch pockets to pocket front
trouser opening edges. Lay pockets up and
understitch close to seam. Turn pockets to
inside. Pin pocket opening edges to side hip
yokes at placement lines. Stitch pocket
pieces together on inside. Baste pockets to
underside of front trouser pieces, first
cutting off allowance of right pocket piece
along center front.
Stitch side seams and inside leg seams.
Press seam allowances open. Stitch center
front seam from opening mark to inside
leg seam.
Zipper: Press self-facings to inside, stitch
on right along center front and stitch on left
3
16" (5mm) before center front. Stitch
zipper under left opening edge (underlap),
stitching close to teeth. Pin opening closed,
matching centers. Pin loose zipper tape to
right facing, leaving trouser free. Baste
facing. Topstitch opening from upper edge
to 1" (3cm) before end as marked. With
right sides together, fold underlap piece
lengthwise, stitch across bottom end. Turn
right-side out. Lay underlap under left
opening edge, pin to facing. Stitch facing to
underlap close to zipper joining seam. Lay
opening closed again and topstitch to end,
catching underlap.
135A-
022015-US
Square Neckline
Top
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 158yds
(1.40m) for all sizes
Notion: Twin stretch needle, size 2.5/75
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-25 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
NZ_BS1404_135T
Cutting layout
Fold
Selvedges
Fold
Selvedges
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch jersey:
21front, cut 1 on fold
22front band, cut 2 on fold
23back, cut 1 on fold
24back band, cut 2 on fold
25yoke with cut-on sleeve, cut 2
a) neck edge facing strip: size 44: 21"
(53cm); size 46: 21" (54cm); size 48:
22" (56cm); size 50: 22" (57cm); size
52: 23" (59cm) long; and 158" (4cm)
wide, including seam allowances
Construction
Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch
stitch, narrow zigzag or serging. To keep
hems flexible, stitch with a twin needle.
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project instructions
136-
Construction
Black pattern line, sheets B1-B2
Pattern pieces 21 to 24
Size 44 AAAAA
Size 46 ===
Size 48 CCC
Size 50 67 67
Size 52 EEEEE
CuttingNZ_BS1404_136T
layout
Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Selvedge
Fold
022015-US
Knotted Top
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Materials
Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide: size 44:
1yds (1.6m); sizes 46, 48: 178yds
(1.7m); sizes 50, 52: 2yds (1.8m)
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; twin stretch
needle, size 2.5/75
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
100
burda style.com
Selvedges
Fold the fabric as shown in the
cutting layoutright sides together
on a double layer; right side up on a
single layer. Place the asymmetric
front pieces on the right side of the
fabric, printed sides up.
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch jersey:
21right front, cut 1
22left front, cut 2
23back, cut 1 on fold
24sleeve, cut 2
a) back neck edge facing strip: sizes 44, 46:
8" (20cm); sizes 48, 50: 838" (21cm); size
SPRING 2015
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project instructions
137-
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1pQ2fkN
Cutting
022015-US
Wrap Top
Materials
Jersey, 45" (114.5cm) wide: sizes 44, 46:
2yds (2.05m); sizes 48, 50: 2yds
(2.2m); size 52: 258yds (2.25m)
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; twin stretch
needle, size 2.5/75
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Construction
Back neck edge: With wrong sides
together, fold facing strip lengthwise and
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BS_067-101_Instructions_Spring_15_01.15.15.indd 101
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1/22/15 2:45 PM
sewing basics
Fabric
Manipulation
Knife pleats
Box pleats
PLEATS
Garment construction
The following manipulations need to be
102
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center
front
Accordion pleats
Tucks
SPRING 2015
1/16/15 6:30 PM
sewing basics
tucks, the space between each tuck is
equal to the unfolded width of one tuck.
Variations: There are many variations in
tucks, including altering the space between
and the sizes of each tuck. For a close
tuck, the space between each tuck is half
the width of an unfolded tuck. Pintucks
are very narrow in size, generally 18" (4
mm) width folded. To create a smocked
effect, press tucks to stand upright, and
then hand-sew one tuck to another at
regular intervals. Another variation is tuck
and fold. This is created by pressing and
sewing the tucks in one direction, and
then sewing all or some of them back in
the opposite direction between the original
seams to create a wave effect. How
many times you sew them in the opposite
direction, and if you fold the entire tuck
back, or just half of it, adds creative
options to this technique.
Folding shapes
EMBELLISHMENT
GATHERS
Which fabrics
for what?
The choice of fabric will affect the success
of fabric manipulation techniques, so
determine the fabric weight and body
related to the intended use. Lightweight,
soft fabrics are best for gathers, and
lightweight fabrics with body are best for
smocking. Use medium-weight fabrics
with body for pleats and quilting. Always
test the intended technique on scraps of
fabric and see how it works. If you need
more body, add a lightweight interfacing
to the fabric underside.
Shirring
Ruching
Gathering stitches
"
SPRING 2015
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machine master
Sewing
Challenging
Fabrics
Tools and techniques
to take control
BY CHRISTINE CARSON
There is a certain thrill when blindly diving into a sewing project, but advanced sewers sometimes opt to take on a
sewing challenge with their eyes wide open. Preparation, planning, and good information can make all the difference
in your project, particularly when dealing with challenging fabrics. An important part of preparing for any project is
being sure you have the best tools for each task. When it comes to sewing, your machines needle, thread, and
presser foot all have a direct impact on a projects final outcome, and are worth careful consideration. Lets take a
closer look at four challenging fabrics and what you need to sew them.
SATIN
This fabric is a great choice for evening-wear,
graduation gowns, bridesmaids dresses,
and more. Satins light-reflecting sheen
and drape make it popular to wear, but its
tight weave and slippery nature can make
it onerous to sew. For best results, be sure
to leave yourself plenty of time to adjust
and test your machines settings before
you begin sewing your satin project. Start
by shortening the stitch length and
installing a walking foot if you have one. A
walking foot will help minimize slippage
by feeding both layers of the fabric through
the machine at an even pace. Puckering
and thread pulls can be resolved by using
a new small microtex (sharp) needle and
fine lingerie thread. Finally, if your fabric
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Satin stitch
SPRING 2015
1/16/15 6:32 PM
VELVET
Always luxurious, velvet is a woven fabric
created by slicing in half two pieces of fabric
that have been woven together, resulting in
two lengths of fabric with an even, dense pile.
While this pile makes velvet wonderfully tactile
to wear, it creates a great challenge even for
advanced sewers prepared to take their time.
Start the project right by using a fresh, universal needle in a size corresponding to the velvet
weight. The thread type will depend on the fiber
content of the velvet. A high-quality polyester
thread is a good option, unless you are sewing
silk velvet, in which case silk or mercerized
cotton thread is recommended. Use a presser
foot that will help feed the fabric evenly while
minimizing shifting as you sew. Depending
on the make and model of your machine, you
may have the option of using a velvet foot (like
Janome has for their 1600P series), although
you can achieve great results with a walking
or roller foot as well. Be sure to try the presser
foot on a scrap of the project velvet. If your
presser foot leaves marks on the velvet, try
reducing the presser foot pressure. If marks are
still left, try a different presser foot.
Sewing
hint
Be sure to sew a test seam on a
scrap of any difficult fabric. Once
you get the desired results, note the
machine settings, presser foot, and
thread used. This can streamline
the set-up process in the future.
DENIM
Many a beginner sewer has experienced the
frustration of attempting to sew denim without
the proper tools. This rugged and sometimes
thick fabric can bend and break sewing
machine needles, snap threads, and even
damage lightweight sewing machines. Using
denim-specific tools and techniques will
minimize any issues. Start by choosing a
denim needle. This is a strong, reinforced
needle with a modified tip, and its made to
handle the challenge of sewing through
multiple layers of dense fabric. Denim thread
is the most suitable thread to use because it
provides the durability needed for sewing thick
fabrics, and it comes in a variety of fashionable
denim colors including oranges and yellows for
topstitching. Denim thread options vary from
SPANDEX
A slippery and stretchy knit, these two qualities
make spandex versatile and great to wear, but
challenging to sew. Start off with a jersey or
stretch needle. Both machine needles have a
medium ballpoint tip (instead of a sharp tip)
suitable for knits, and a stretch needle is
specially designed for extreme stretch fabric
like swimwear. The wearability of a spandex
garment depends on stretchable, comfortable
seams. To achieve this, many clothing
manufactures use texturized nylon (or
polyester) thread. While its not widely used
for conventional sewing machines (because the
stretchy thread can wreak havoc with your
machine tension mechanism), many sewers
hand-wind it onto the bobbin. Hand-winding
maintains the threads elasticity, and when
paired with a polyester upper thread, the
resulting seams are flexible with excellent
stretch recovery. Its ideal for use in serger
loopers as well. Wavy seams are another
common spandex sewing issue. Some
machines offer adjustable presser foot
pressure, and reducing the pressure while
sewing spandex will help alleviate rippling
seams. Another way to reduce wavy seams is
to use a walking foot (with this, upper and
lower feed dogs simultaneously feed the fabric
under the needle) to help alleviate stretching,
slipping, and puckering.
conventional sewing
machine to hem
edges and zigzag
them in place, or
topstitch with a twin
needle to make your
garment look storebought!
meg healy,
online
editor
SPRING 2015
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giveaway
KEEP YOUR
GARMENTS
PROPERLY PRESSED
WITH THIS LAURASTAR
STEAM GENERATOR MODEL
LIFT ($749 VALUE).
VALUE) FOR YOUR
CHANCE TO WIN, GO TO
BURDASTYLE.COM/BLOG/
LAURASTAR-GIVEAWAY
AND TELL US YOUR BEST
EMBELLISHING TIP.
www.laurastarus.com
preview
SUMMER 2015
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SPRING 2015
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sew this!
Step-by-Step
Project
BS1402_104WS_T
SHOPPING
LIST:
Nhschule
Piqu, 54"BurdaStyle
(137 cm) wide: sizes
34, 36: 78 yd (.8 m); sizes 38, 40,
42: 1 yd (.9 m)
Interfacing
NOTIONS:
1 invisible zipper, 16" (40 cm)
long, and special presser foot
20" (.5 m) flat bias tape, 1 58"
(4 cm) wide
Princess Seam
Boatneck Top
Sewing thread
Pattern paper
Pencil
Scissors
Measuring tape/ruler
34
36
38
40
42
22
33
44
5
66
Straight pins
Tailors chalk
Hand-sewing needles
SPRING
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Selvedges
BS1402_104WS_Z
Nhschule
BurdaStyle
2015 burda style.com
107
1/16/15 6:35 PM
sew this!
INTERFACING
TRANSFER MARKINGS TO
FABRIC
108
Interfacing
burda style.com
BS_SewThis_Spr15.indd 108
SPRING 2015
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sew this!
INVISIBLE ZIPPER,
FIRST HALF
INVISIBLE ZIPPER,
SECOND HALF
SLEEVES
ARMHOLES
NECK EDGES
11
12
10
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sewing basics
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 103
Ruffles
SMOCKING
English smocking
Hand-tied quilting
Trapunto
Cut-surface
QUILTING
American smocking
110
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top 10
WE ASKED,
YOU ANSWERED!
Whats your best
fabric care tip?
1. Marseille soap
[a natural vegetable
oil soap] has a
neutral scent and
washes out any
stain! Just use the soap and
wash the garment by hand. On
heavy stains, wash it by hand
first, leave some soap on, then
machine wash.
Abigail G., Antwerp, Belgium
5. I use the
original blue
Dawn dish
soap to get
out tomato
sauce or grease stains.
Just dab it on the stain,
rub with cold water, and
the stain comes out every time!
Bethany A., Cleveland, Ohio
6. Washing delicate
fabrics, costume
fabric, sequined
fabric, and special
lingerie fabrics in
pre-wash my
cottons and sturdy
knits intentionally in
warm to hot water,
depending on the weight/
texture/color of the fabric. This
way, it prevents accidental
shrinkage later, should I make a
laundry mistake!
8. For hand-
washables, including
hand-knits, I use
9. Before pressing
3. I freeze fabric in
4. When washing
7. I have started
making my own
detergent because
detergent compartment of my
front-loading washer. I use the
hand-wash cycle and then do
a slow spin only. This way I can
avoid felting wools, but do not
have to deal with wringing water
out of heavy, wet wool.
unscented baby
shampoo in the
2. I always
my freezer overnight.
This strengthens
synthetic fabrics to
prevent snags, runs,
or pilling. If using vintage fabric,
freezing lifts out unpleasant
odors, and kills any tag-along
critters.
MAKE IT!
122-022015-US
Tulle Wedding Gown
on page 51
a new fabric, I
always pre-test a
scrap using a press
cloth to determine
the correct iron heat setting. Silk
organza works well as a press
cloth because its strong, thin,
and somewhat transparent,
but I also keep a square of thin
cotton handy as well.
Karen N., Seattle, Washington
me in my purse for
any accidental spills
so I can catch them
before they set in.
Lee Ann H., Houston, Texas
Want to share your insider tip? For our next issue, we want to know: What is your top
embellishment tip? Visit burdastyle.com/blog/top-10-embellishment-techniques and fill us in!
SPRING 2015
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inspiration
M A K E A STA
T EM EN T
Make new from old
Re-fashion
Keep your sense
of style alive by
repurposing your
favorite printed
T-shirt
COMIC CH
IC
burda style.com
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Y LE
COLLEGE ST
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Favorite
Bloggers
House of Pinheiro
houseofpinheiro.
blogspot.com
OonaBaloona
oonaballoona.com
DIY Style
Lifestyle
Vintage
Beginner-friendly
burdastyle.com/freedownloads
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My Color. My Look.
My Thread.
makeitcoats.com
1/20/15 5:25 PM
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