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STITCH STORY NO 682:

You sew, girl!


Jane has couture tastes on a boxed wine budget. But instead of buying dresses
and suits from the expensive labels, she whips up designer-inspired garments
using her Skyline S5a powerful but affordable machine thats perfect for
a girl with a lot of style, but not a lot of dough. Learn more about the new
Skyline S5 and the full Janome line. Janome.com/Dealers

WHATS NEXT

Skyline S5

a s tor y in ever y s titch


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Janome C2 ad.indd 2

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com

IN-DEPTH
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OWN PACE.

FROM THE EDITOR


Be a part of the worlds
largest online sewing
community! 1,000,000+
members share their
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sewing destination.
amanda williams,
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SWEEPSTAKES AND CONTESTS You wont want to miss our great


sewing contests and sweepstake giveaways!
SPRING 2015

BS_BurdaStyle.com_Spr15.indd 1

burda style.com

1/16/15 5:21 PM

SPRING 2015

fashion
25

PERFECT FIT

Gorgeous shoes to wear down the aisle


26

THE SWEET LIFE

Feminine silhouettes in pretty pastel hues


*COVER STORY
32

BLUE AND WHITE

Picturesque pieces in cool shades of blue


*COVER STORY
40

URBAN JUNGLE

Sharp, sophisticated styles in sultry


prints
*COVER STORY
48

BIG DAY

Enchanting gowns for a fairytale wedding


54

WHITE HOT

Modern, edgy designs stand out in


classic white

INDIGO
Feel anything but blue in casually charming
styles. Page 32
*COVER STORY

diy trends
& styling
14

CROCHET

The traditional technique with a


high-fashion twist
16

TRIANGLES

Its all about the angles with geometric


prints and appliqus

WHITE WEDDINGS
An assortment of elegant dresses for
beautiful brides-to-be. Page 48
*COVER STORY

18

ROSE PETAL

A metal rose necklace adds floral flair for


spring
20

COLORFUL CONTRAST

On-trend slashed sleeves lined with bold


colors and prints
22

SPRING FLING

Colorful makeup and must-try hair


products
38

CASUAL COUTURE

Dress up casual workout pants with


clever styling tips
*COVER STORY
46

STYLE AND THE CITY

Fierce and fashionable accessories that


stand out in a crowd
DAZZLING
Bring the glamour in decadent,
shimmering accessories. Page 52

COSMOPOLITAN
Stylish staples with an eye-catching edge. Page 40
*COVER STORY

52

BRIDAL BEAUTY

Elegant accents that sparkle for special


occasions

Looking for styles that match your skill level?


Keep an eye out for our Easy and Advanced symbols.
2

burda style.com

BS_TOC_Spr15.indd 2

SPRING 2015

1/22/15 2:09 PM

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compliments
ss
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t
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u
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n
a

An intuitive sewing machine for creative types with high expectations:


The BERNINA 530 offers a range of functions that simplify sewing and
put you in control. Whether altering the stitch length, stitch width or
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THE 5 SERIES

Discover the new BERNINA 5 Series and the many ways it will inspire you to write
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inside

SPRING 2015

TRENDSETTER
Alluring accessories
with fashionable flair.
Page 46

MINT CONDITION
Illustrated sewing instructions for a
sophisticated off-the-shoulder top.
Page 107

PRETTY IN PASTEL
Feminine styles in soft spring shades.
Page 26 *COVER STORY

in every issue
1

BURDASTYLE.COM

EDITORS NOTE

106
106
111

NEW & NOW

FABRIC MANIPULATION

112

INSPIRATION

Refashion your favorite T-shirts into


something new.

FABRIC MASTER

Expert tips for tackling those hard-tosew fabrics


107

TOP 10

BurdaStyle sewers share their best fabric


care tips
*COVER STORY

Advanced techniques for detailing


textiles
104

PREVIEW

Coming up in our next issue

Whats hot in the latest sewing


products and accessories
102

GIVEAWAY

Enter to win this issues prize worth $500

sewing
10

LIGHT YEARS
Contemporary designs sewn in clean, classic
white. Page 54

SEW THIS BOATNECK TOP

GET MORE ONLINE

Step-by-step instructions for sewing


this feminine off-the-shoulder style

PROJECTS REMIXED: Inspiring ideas


for altering your favorite BurdaStyle patterns
FEATURE WEBINAR: Make Your Own
Bikini
BURDA TV: Tips for sewing stretch fabrics
SO PRETTY
Spring makeup
and hair repair.
Page 22

PROJECT GALLERIES: Check out


member projects
DONT MISS our newest contests and
promotions!

visit burdastyle.com
Looking for styles that match your skill level?
Keep an eye out for our Easy and Advanced symbols.
4

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BS_TOC_Spr15.indd 4

SPRING 2015

1/16/15 6:42 PM

Embroidery
makes me
unique!
There is nothing like the one-of-a-kind embroideries
built-in a HUSQVARNA VIKING machine just waiting
to be unleashed. From decorative motifs to delicate
lace, now is the time to spice up your style with the
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1/22/15 6:54 PM

editors note

SPRING 2015

ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS

about spring is shedding the


clothing layers of the colder
months. But wearing fewer clothes
certainly doesnt mean you need
to compromise your style. Fortunately,
the pages of this issue are filled with
springs best fashions that you can make
today from classic cuts (p. 26) and
casual separates for all sizes (p. 32)
to wedding gowns (p. 48) and modern
whites (p. 54).
And of course, fabric plays a key role in
your custom, made-by-you wardrobe. The
foundation of a good garment, fabric is
more than just a print or a texture. Fabric
is the drape, the shape, and the structure
(or lack thereof) of an outfit, and buying
it is one of the guilty pleasures of many
sewers (fabric stash, anyone?). This is our
second annual fabric issue, and its jampacked with great stuff for all skill levels!
Youll find fabric care tips from our
readers (p. 111), a guide to working
with specialty fabrics (p. 104), and
some detailed fabric manipulation
techniques (p. 102).
Im excited to be a
part of your journey
through building your
fashionable wardrobe.
Let me know what you
sew, and be sure to
keep in touch online!
Happy spring! And
happy sewing!

Denise Wild
Editorial Director, BurdaStyle US

burda style.com

BS_EdNote_Spr15.indd 6

Catch me on series 900


of Sew it All TV making
a BurdaStyle garment

Here I am with Ellen March,


Editorial Director of Sew News

Rows of ribbon from the garment


district of Sham Shui Po in Hong
Kong where Technical Editor, Linda
Griepentrog, hosted a fabric tour.
Check out The American Sewing
Guild for her next tour in 2016!

Online Editor, Meg Healy


(right), and Assistant Editor,
Alana Walsh (left), strike a
pose with Canadian TV host
Marilyn Denis

SPRING 2015

1/22/15 2:13 PM

Vintage Embroidery Designs


W I T H A M O D E R N T W I ST
Artfully Embroidered reinvents vintage embroidery through a
modern aesthetic. Traditional Japanese and western motifs are
made new with color and embellishment, and 25 embroidered
patterns demonstrate the beauty of the traditional designs while
keeping the projects fresh and modern-looking for todays sewists.
Artfully Embroidered | 120 pages | $24.99 | Paperback | SRN: 14SW04

Order your copy now at


www.interweavestore.com/sewing
or by calling 866-949-1646

Artfully Embroidered ad.indd 7

1/20/15 3:16 PM

SPRING 2015
EDITORI A L DIRECTOR, US EDITION Denise Wild
ASSISTA NT EDITOR Alana Walsh
TECHNICA L EDITOR Linda Turner Griepentrog
EDITORI A L CONTRIBUTORS Hina Ansari, Christine Carson, Amanda Kaufmann
A RT DIRECTOR Amy Petriello
PRODUCTION DESIGNER Janice Tapia
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTR ATORS Sheila Lam, Missy Shepler
DIRECTOR OF ONLINE PRODUCT DEV ELOPMENT Winter Thielen
BURDAST Y LE.COM EDITOR Meg Healy
ADVERTISING M ANAGERS Mary-Evelyn Dalton, maryeveholder@comcast.net,
615-297-3639; Wendy Thompson, wendy.thompson@fwcommunity.com, 910-791-3832
DIGITAL SALES M ANAGER Laura Abel, laura.abel@fwcommunity.com,
303-215-5610
A D TR A FFICK ER Lisa Richter

Wondering which needle to use?


Check out the SCHMETZ App its free!

VICE PRESIDENT, MEDI A SA LES Michelle Crockett


CORPOR ATE DIRECTOR,DESIGN A ND PRODUCTION Gregory Krueger
DESIGN M A NAGER Larissa Davis
SENIOR PRODUCTION M A NAGER Nancy Pollock
BOOKS EDITORI A L DIRECTOR Vanessa Lyman
ECOMMERCE M A RK ETING DIRECTOR Evelyn Bridge
DIRECTOR, M AGA ZINE M A RK ETING & FULFILLMENT Mark Fleetwood
ONLINE CIRCUL ATION SPECI A LIST Jodi Smith

F+W, A Content + eCommerce Company

Android App available soon.

Kick-Start Your
Sewing With

Free
GUIDES
academy.
burdastyle.com

CH AIRM A N & CEO David Nussbaum


CHIEF OPER ATING OFFICER & CFO James Ogle
PRESIDENT Sara Domville
CHIEF DIGITA L OFFICER Chad Phelps
VICE PRESIDENT, E-COMMERCE Lucas Hilbert
SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, OPER ATIONS Phil Graham
VICE PRESIDENT, COMMUNIC ATIONS Stacie Berger

2015 Verlag Aenne Burda GmbH & Co.KG


BurdaStyle is published under licenses of HUBERT BURDA MEDIA HOLDING KG and VERLAG
AENNE BURDA GmbH & Co. KG, Hubert-Burda-Platz 2, 77652 Offenburg, Germany

FOUNDER Aenne Burda


PUBLISHER Prof. Dr. Hubert Burda
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF A ND CHIEF DESIGNER Dagmar Bily
DIRECTOR BUSINESS DEV ELOPMENT Olaf Holzhuser
DIRECTOR LICENSING A ND A DV ERTISING Frances Evans
E-M AIL: licensing@burda.com

BurdaStyle is published in Austria, Brazil, Canada, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France,
Germany, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Russia, Spain, Sweden,
Switzerland, Turkey, Ukraine, United Kingdom, United States of America.
Copyright Notice: All material published in BurdaStyle is copyrighted by Verlag Aenne Burda or
its licensees. Such material is protected by U.S. and international copyright laws and treaties.
All rights reserved. In particular all models and sewing patterns are copyrighted and their
commercial use is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or distributed
without written consent of F+W. Requests for permissions should be directed to:
4868 Innovation Dr., Ft. Collins, CO 80525-5576. (970) 669-7672.
The US edition of BurdaStyle (ISSN 2331-7671) is published four times per year by Interweave,
a division of F+W Media Inc. Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only.
Reproduction in whole or in part, including photocopy, is prohibited without the expressed
written permission of the publisher. BurdaStyle does not recommend, approve or endorse any
of the advertisers products, services, or views advertised in BurdaStyle. Nor does BurdaStyle
evaluate the advertisers claim in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in
evaluating the advertisers products, services and views advertised in BurdaStyle.
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Retailers: If you are interested in carrying this magazine in your store, please call
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VISIT US ON THE WEB: burdastyle.com interweave.com fwcommunity.com

BS_Masthead_Spr15.indd 8

1/20/15 6:28 PM

Mollie Makes pillows


Mollie Makes machine embroidery
Mollie Makes table runners
Mollie Makes ribbon embroidery
Mollie Makes ornaments
Mollie Makes bargello

Mollie Makes
Embroidery
Mollie Makes bags
Mollie Makes gifts
Mollie Makes cross-stitch
Mollie Makes wall dcor
Mollie Makes jewelry
Mollie Makes doodle stitching
Mollie Makes crewel work

Discover more than 15 contemporary embroidery projects from


an international range of experts who will demonstrate the
different ways in which the techniques and stitches can be used.
Mollie Makes Embroidery | 160 pages | $19.99 | Paperback | SRN: 14QM05

Order your copy now at

www.interweavestore.com/sewing
or by calling 866-949-1646

Mollie Makes Embroidery ad.indd 9

1/20/15 3:20 PM

new & now

HI TECH
New and advanced software is about to change the way we look
at embroidery. Create your own designs from clipart or photos,
personalize and modify your designs in seconds, and even check
out a 3D preview of the finished product. TRUEMBROIDERY 3
software for Mac, $899 or $2,299 (depending on duration of
software support purchased).

Perfectly Stitched
Tools and reads that will elevate your craft

SEEING DOUBLE

MATERIALISTIC
Finding the right fabric is key
when it comes to creating a
gorgeous garment. Conquer the
fashion world with extensive
knowledge on all things fabric,
textiles, and design. Fabrics In
Fashion Design, $45.

KNOW HOW TO USE A DOUBLE EYE NEEDLE?


TAKE YOUR TOPSTITCHING UP A NOTCH AND
TRY THREADING THE NEEDLE WITH
DIFFERENT COLORS OR TYPES OF THREAD
FOR A SHADED OR TEXTURED EFFECT.
SCHMETZ DOUBLE EYE NEEDLE, $5.

Over 300
terms
explained

Christine Haynes

HOW TO SPEAK
FLUENT SEWING
FOREIGN LANGUAGE

BEST FOOT FORWARD


Part sketchbook part
reference manual, this
hardcover book is a must
for the aspiring footwear
designer. Shoe Design book
from Fashionary, $49.
10

burda style.com

BS_New&Now_Spr15.indd 10

Avoid feeling overwhelmed anytime


you encounter unfamiliar sewing
terminology with a handy guide to
even the most complicated of sewing
speak. How To Speak Fluent Sewing,
$25.
The Indispensable Illustrated Guide
to Sewing and Fabric Terminology

SPRING 2015

1/22/15 6:56 PM

new & now

FINE LINE

MARK SEAMLINES,
NOTCHES, AND
PATTERN
MARKINGS WITH
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CAP POPS OFF EASILY
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INCLUDED INK
REFILLS. CLOVER
WHITE MARKING PEN
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SMOOTH AS SILK
Lustrous, silky satins in over 108 vibrant solids and five
print collections to choose from provide endless creative
sewing combinations. Shannon Fabrics, $6-$7/yard.

SKYS THE LIMIT


Modern sewers will
be on cloud nine with
features such as the
one-handed needle
threader, speed control
slider, 6 built-in LED
lights, and 170 built-in
stitches including
10 one-step
buttonholes and
four alphabets.
Janome Skyline
S5, $1,499.

MAGNETIC
Never worry about misplaced pins again! A
stylish magnetic pincushion holds pins in
place while a wristband ensures that pins
are always within reach as you sew. Unique
Quilting Wrist Magnetic Pin Caddy, $8.

SKETCH ARTIST

Bring your design ideas to life using


mixed-media techniques for fashion
illustrations that jump off the page.
Watch and learn to draw facial
features, hair styles, clothes,
accessories, and more. Fun, Fabulous
Fashion Illustration: Draw and Paint
Figures DVD, $27.
12

burda style.com

BS_New&Now_Spr15.indd 12

BACK TO BASICS
Stock your closet with simple yet stylish
staples that are a must-have in any
womans wardrobe. Simply Sewn, $25.

SPRING 2015

1/22/15 2:17 PM

Learn New Techniques With

WEB SEMINARS
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Copying a Pattern
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Pattern Drafting
Tailoring Techniques

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Selling Your Projects


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BurdaStyle Web Seminars ad.indd 13

1/21/15 11:14 AM

runway diy

HERV LGER

make it!

ADD A STUNNING STAR


EMBELLISHMENT

FULL CIRCLE
Upgrade a narrow belt by crocheting
along both sides

FLORAL
AFFAIR
Embroidered
flowers add an
enchanting
accent

Chain stitch

STAR STRUCK
This pretty appliqu pattern can
be made once you know some
basic crochet stitches.
Double crochet

CROCHET
CHIC

14

burda style.com

Half treble

Slip stitch

TORY BURCH

This traditional technique


is taking over the runways,
adding intrigue to basic
dresses and tops with
allover embellishment,
eye-catching inserts,
and alluring appliqus

Double
treble
Treble

PHOTOS: JAN SCHMIEDEL (STEP IMAGES); FIRSTVIEW.COM (RUNWAY IMAGES). ILLUSTRATIONS: KARIN DULDNER;
CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS: DIANE SCHROLL. PRODUCTION: THERESA BACHLER.

BLUE STREAK
A gorgeous blue appliqu
transforms a simple white tank

SPRING 2015

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1/16/15 5:28 PM

ADVERTORIAL

fabric

TREND SPECIAL
As warm weather rolls in, florals and pretty patterns abound

MICHAEL MILLER
FABRICS

MICHAELMILLERFABRICS.COM
A life without dreams is like a garden without
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Floral Collection is a modern take on classic
prints, from retro geometrics and tiny floral
prints to bold bouquet borders. These silky
soft fabrics will invigorate your creativity from
season to season! You can view the whole
collection at http://www.michaelmillerfabrics.
com/shop/collections/vintage-florals.html

SPRING 2015

BS_Advertorial_Spr15.indd 15

burda style.com

15

1/21/15 3:55 PM

runway diy

VICTORIA BECKHAM

make it!

EMBELLISH AN
OUTFIT WITH
HAND-EMBROIDERED
TRIANGLES

SHAPING UP
Jazz up a gym-ready backpack
by creating an all-over triangular
pattern with pre-strung sequins

ON THE EDGE
A simple mini-skirt is
spiced up by triangles
embroidered onto
the hem

MATERIALS Fabric,
embroidery thread, metallic
embroidery thread, fusible
interfacing, embroidery hoop,
hand embroidery needle,
scissors, hand-drafted triangle
template, chalk.

STEP 1 Fuse interfacing onto


the wrong side of fabric. Use
template to mark pattern on
fabric. Begin in the left corner and
insert needle at the upper point of
the triangle.

Its all about the angles with


high-fashion geometry!
Whether you have triangular
accents or an allover print,
triangles are shaping up to
be one of springs top trends

16

burda style.com

CUSTO BARCELONA

A CUTE
TRIANGLE
STEP 2 Bring the needle back
through to the left of the upper
point, close to the marked line.
Insert the needle into lower
right-hand corner and bring it
back up at the lower left corner.

STEP 3 Insert needle at top,


1
16 (2 mm) below the first thread
and next to the right marked line.
Bring the needle back up again
close to the left marked line, and
continue until triangle is complete.

PHOTOS: JAN SCHMIEDEL (STEP IMAGES); FIRSTVIEW.COM (RUNWAY IMAGES).


PRODUCTION: DIANE SCHROLL.

CONNECT THE DOTS


Individual beads are sewn on to
create a triangular neckline accent

SPRING 2015

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1/16/15 5:30 PM

Joya_Laurastar Pulse ad.indd 17

1/23/15 9:05 AM

runway diy

MOSCHINO

make it!

CREATE AN EYECATCHING ABSTRACT


ROSE NECKLACE
PETAL PINK
Floral appliqus in different
fabrics decorate this circle skirt

MATERIALS Flat, pliable


aluminum wire; hand-drawn
flower template, needle-nose
pliers, wire cutters, snake
chain, two small jump rings,
sandpaper.

WILD
ROSES
Twisted metal
wire creates an
eye-catching
necklace

STEP 1 Using the sandpaper,


file one end of the wire smooth and
place it on the template. Starting at
the center of the flower, bend the
wire with the needle-nose pliers,
following the design.

Decorative flowers
add a touch of romance
for spring

18

burda style.com

DOLCE & GABBANA

FLORAL
FLAIR
STEP 2 Once you have finished
the rose, trim off the excess wire
with the wire cutter. File the end of
the wire smooth with the sandpaper.

STEP 3 Use the needle-nose


pliers to attach the chain to the
outermost ring of the rose, using
the two small jump rings.

PHOTOS: JAN SCHMIEDEL (STEP IMAGES); FIRSTVIEW.COM (RUNWAY IMAGES).


PRODUCTION: DIANE SCHROLL.

IN BLOOM
Flowers of
entwined wire
and leather
adorn a
headband

SPRING 2015

BS_RunwayDIY3_Flowers_Spr15.indd 18

1/16/15 5:32 PM

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BurdaStyle
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runway diy

LWREN SCOTT

make it!

SPICE UP A LONG-SLEEVE TEE


WITH AN ON-TREND SLIT
FASHIONABLE
FLARE
Long slits give this top a
stylishly retro feel

MATERIALS Long-sleeve
top, lining fabric, fusible
interfacing, removable marker,
pattern paper, fusible webbing,
pen, thread, scissors, ruler,
measuring tape, pins.

STEP 1 Put on shirt and mark


elbow level. Fold sheet of paper.
Lay sleeve on the paper along the
folded edge, with the upper edge
of the paper at the elbow marking.
Trace out the sleeve and cut.

STEP 2 Use paper pattern


piece to cut out two pieces each
of lining and fusible interfacing.
Turn shirt inside out and fuse
interfacing to sleeves.

STEP 3 Cut up the center front


of the sleeves, stopping (2 cm)
below the elbow marking. With right
sides together, stitch the contrasting
fabric to the sleeve edges, and use
fusible webbing to hold the top of the
lining in place. Turn and press.

SLASHED
SLEEVES
CHANEL

Dramatic slits along the


arms of jackets and
long-sleeve tops are
chic and unexpected

20

burda style.com

PHOTOS: JAN SCHMIEDEL (STEP IMAGES); FIRSTVIEW.COM (RUNWAY IMAGES).


PRODUCTION: DIANE SCHROLL.

WINGED
COOL
Glam
brooches
CONTRAST
make pink
this jumper
Salmon
lining
elegant
adds adress
splash
of color
to thisenough
classic for
style
evening wear

SPRING 2015

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1/23/15 4:58 PM

beauty

In Full Bloom

Playful pastels and bold brights give your face a fresh softness
for spring

1.

2.

4.

3.

2. OVER THE RAINBOW


Add soft, muted hues to your daytime look for a
sophisticated update. Clarins Limited Edition
Garden Escape 6-Color Eye Palette, $44.
3. FOREVER FUCHSIA
Spokesmodel Mileys bold attitude complements
this sparkling statement hue. M.A.C Viva Glam
Miley Cyrus Lipglass, $18.
4. MINT JULEP
Bring on the heat with a pastel green pedicure
fit for the season. Thats Hula-rious from the
Hawaii Collection by OPI, $12.
22

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BS_Beauty_Spr15.indd 22

BACKGROUND AND SMEARS: ISTOCK.COM

1. DOUBLE DUTY
Fill in your brows and line your eyes with a powder
that leaves a softer finish than pencil. CoverGirl
Bombshell Pow-der Brow + Liner by LashBlast
in Dark Brown, $11.

SPRING 2015

1/16/15 5:38 PM

6.
5.

5. ALL ABOUT THAT BASE


Dust a powder foundation over your skin for an even
base and a perfect starting point. Yves Rocher Zero
Default Flawless Skin Powder in Medium Gold, $31.
6 CANDY POP
This perfectly pink lip color will make your smile
seem a little sweeter. Make Up For Even Rouge
Artist Intense #54 (Pearly Golden Pink), $23.
7. BLUE NOTE
A sweep of pale blue is a subtle way to bring color to
your dazzling eyes. Burberry Eye Color Wet & Dry
Silk Shadow in Stone Blue No. 307, $33.

HAIR
REPAIR
Treat your dried-out
locks to a full
recovery
2.

7.

5.

3.
4.

1.

1. Hard-working conditioners soften your hairs texture both during


and after your color. Clairol Expert Age Defy, $14.
2. Take control of your mane with an arsenal of targeted products.
Sebastian Split End Mend Emergency Kit, $15.
3. Leave winters dull hair behind with a weekly deep conditioning
treatment. 2chic Ultra Repair Collection Ultra Repair Intensive Hair Mask
with Blackberry & Coconut Milk, $9.
4. Smooth your hair with a frizz-controlling shine serum. Herbal Essences
Moroccan Me a Miracle 7-in-1 Serum, $3.
5. Hydrate your hair while sealing its damaged cuticles. Pantene Pro-V
Power Up Daily Treatment, $8.

SPRING 2015

BS_Beauty_Spr15.indd 23

burda style.com

23

1/16/15 5:39 PM

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Sewing eCommerce ad.indd 24

1/20/15 5:24 PM

fashion
IN THIS ISSUE
Pastel hues and
sophisticated
silhouettes
Chic and easy in
shades of blue
Modern khakis go
cosmopolitan
Beautiful styles for the
blushing bride
Simple whites in a
timeless style

PHOTS: DANA VAN LEEUWEN.

THE PERFECT STEP


Feel beautiful from head to
toe with a pair of stunning
shoes. This heel, with its
delicate lace and peek-aboo detailing, is both
classic and feminine, and
fit for spring. Shoe: Jimmy
Choo; Rings: Thomas Sabo.

SPRING 2015

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burda style.com

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1/16/15 5:41 PM

burda fashion

THE
SWEET
LIFE

Celebrate the start of spring


with darling styles in sugary
shades of green, pink, and blue
PHOTOGRAPHY: A&F STUDIO
PRODUCTION: SABINE MAEULEN

26

burda style.com

SPRING 2015

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1/16/15 5:43 PM

burda fashion
OPPOSITE PAGE

BLUE SKIES

SLIM LADIES JACKET


107-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 36 44

PENCIL SKIRT WITH ZIP


FLY 109-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 34 44

A classic blazer is softened


with rounded edges along
the hem and collar, and
looks feminine in a powder
blue jacquard. A matching
skirt with a pointed back
yoke and fly-front zipper
completes the enchanting
ensemble.
FABRIC & NOTIONS

Jacquard, zipper, snap


fasteners. Necklace: Nina
Trommen; Belt: Rich & Royal.

RAY OF LIGHT
SQUARE-NECK TOP
111-022015-US
A-LINE SKIRT WITH
PLEATED YOKE
106-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 34 42

Two statement pieces


work together to create
one show-stopping outfit.
The charming top has a
glamorous feel with its
square neckline and sleeve
flounces, while the skirt
dazzles with an intricate
pleated yoke and front
box pleats.
FABRIC & NOTIONS

Top: Boucle knit. Skirt:


Metallic jacquard, invisible
zipper. Sunglasses: Prada;
Shoes: Gianvito Rossi.

Care Tip
Polyester jacquard
can be machinewashed on a gentle
cycle in cold water.
Silk or wool jacquard
should only be dry
cleaned, especially
when woven with
metallic threads.

BS_Fashion1_TheSweetLife_Spr15.indd 27

1/16/15 5:44 PM

burda fashion

NATURAL
BEAUTY

TEA DRESS
101-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 36 44

This feminine frock is the


ultimate sunny-day
staple, with short raglan
sleeves and a breezy
flared skirt. A belt worn
over the dress adds a
subtle embellishment and
defines the waist.
FABRIC & NOTIONS

Metallic print, zipper. Belt:


Rich & Royal; Bracelets and
rings: Stella & Dot.

28

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SPRING 2015

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burda fashion
This
peplum
top is in
petite
sizes
17-21

WORK OF ART

STRUCTURED PEPLUM
TOP 115-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 17 21

Youll be the talk of the


town in this gorgeous
peplum jacket. Short,
sleek, and oh-so-sweet,
this jacket stands out with
its pieced sleeves, paneled
bodice, and figureflattering peplum.
FABRIC & NOTIONS

Jacquard, ribbon, hooks and


eyes. Sunglasses: Michael Kors.

Style
idea
Sew the jacket
in leather for a
sharp, edgy look.

BS_Fashion1_TheSweetLife_Spr15.indd 29

1/16/15 5:44 PM

burda fashion

LEADING LADY
PRINCESS SEAM
BOATNECK TOP
104-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT

PLEATED A-LINE SKIRT


105-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 34 42

This enticing off-theshoulder top reveals the


perfect amount of skin for
a look thats sultry yet
sophisticated. With short
raglan sleeves and
princess seams, this top
will add an elegant touch
to any outfit. The
knee-length skirt with
side-pointed yokes and
eye-catching pleats is a
perfect example, sewn in
a matching fabric to make
a stylish two-piece dress.
FABRIC & NOTIONS

30

burda style.com

HAIR AND MAKEUP: SONIA PENA.

Piqu, zipper, button.


Bracelet: Marjana von
Berlepsch; Clutch:
Jimmy Choo.

SPRING 2015

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1/21/15 4:13 PM

burda fashion

PICTURESQUE
DEEP V-NECK TOP
117-022015-US

BURDA SIZES 34/36 42/44

Both casual and elegant,


this loosely cut blouse
looks striking in a red wine
shade. The plunging
V-neckline adds a
seductive touch to the
unfitted silhouette.
FABRIC & NOTIONS

Crpe. Necklace: Nina


Trommen; Bracelet: Philippe
Ferrandis.

BS_Fashion1_TheSweetLife_Spr15.indd 31

1/16/15 5:45 PM

burda fashion

BLUE
SKIES
A selection of polished and
picturesque designs are brought
to life in an enchanting array of
blue and white

PHOTOGRAPHER: DANA VAN LEEUWEN


PRODUCTION: MIRIAM NOWAK AYALA

Style
idea
Use fun,
decorative
buttons on the
jacket for a totally
unique look.

32

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BS_Fashion2_BlueWhite_Spr15.indd 32

SPRING 2015

1/16/15 5:47 PM

burda fashion

OPPOSITE PAGE

IN THE NAVY
BOUCL JACKET
102-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 36 44

This versatile doublebreasted jacket,


featuring a handmade
fringe border, is easy to
dress up or down. You
can wear it with jeans
for a casual look, or sew
a matching skirt to
create sophisticated suit.
FABRIC & NOTIONS

Boucl; snap fasteners. Hat:


Stetson; Jeans: Twin-Set;
Shirt and sandals: Marc
OPolo.

ER
MASETCE
PI

THIS PAGE

TEA PARTY

CAP SLEEVE DRESS WITH


FAUX TOP 108-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 36 44

Youll be admired like


fine china in this stunning
two-piece dress! The
classic blue and white
print turns this dress
into a true work of art.
FABRIC & NOTIONS

Cotton stretch satin, zipper.


Bracelet: Saskia Diez;
Sneakers: Bensimon.

Style
Idea
If you choose to
sew the two-piece
dress in contrasting fabrics, a
darker fabric for
the skirt will slim
the lower body,
while a darker
shade on top will
help narrow a
broad torso. A
matching top and
skirt will create a
long and lean
silhouette.

SPRING 2015

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1/16/15 5:48 PM

burda fashion

BLUE MOON

TOP WITH LEATHER


TRIM 113-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 34 42

A softly draped
neckline with shoulder
closure adds a subtle
touch to this simple,
straight-cut shirt.
Leather panels are
sewn to the sleeves for
added flair.
FABRIC & NOTIONS

Knit fabric, leather, snap


fasteners, ribbon. Bracelet:
Thomas Sabo; Denim
shorts: Twin-Set.

34

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BS_Fashion2_BlueWhite_Spr15.indd 34

SPRING 2015

1/16/15 5:48 PM

SOFT SIDE

OVERSIZED CARDIGAN
111.1-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 34/36, 38/40, 42/44

WORKOUT PANTS
112-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 36 44

This long, boucl cardigan


with cuffed sleeves is both
comfortable and chic. Cozy
casual pants with an elastic
waistband and cuffed ankles
complete the lounge-worthy
look.

Style
idea
Add shape to the
loose-fitting
cardigan by
wearing a belt.

FABRIC & NOTIONS

Jacket: boucl. Pants: Jersey,


elastic, cording. Straw hat: Gant;
Shirt and sandals: Marc OPolo.

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burda fashion

SKYS
THE LIMIT

CROPPED CHAMBRAY
BLOUSE
105A-022015-US
FLORAL SKINNY JEANS
115.1-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 34 44

This cropped and


collared blouse is a
modern alternative to a
classic button-up, with
a hem thats longer in
back and elbow-length
sleeves. Pair it with
fitted denim trousers in
an enticing floral print.
FABRIC & NOTIONS

Style
idea
If the cropped cut
leaves you feeling
too exposed at the
waist, wear a long
tank top
underneath for a
layered look, or
tuck the blouse
into a highwaisted skirt.

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BS_Fashion2_BlueWhite_Spr15.indd 36

HAIR AND MAKEUP: YOKAW FOR LAURA MERCIER/ANGELIQUE HOORN MANAGEMENT.

Blouse: chambray, buttons.


Jeans: stretch twill, zipper.
Hat: Stetson; Bracelet:
Saskia Diez; Shoes:
Bensimon.

SPRING 2015

1/16/15 5:49 PM

burda fashion

WELL CONNECTED

FLARED SKIRT 104.1-022015-US


BURDA SIZES 36 44

A boucl skirt joins forces with the


matching jacket (from page 32) to
create a pretty and polished spring
suit! The skirt lends a feminine flair
to the outfit, with contoured panel
seams and a playful hem flounce.
FABRIC & NOTIONS

Boucl, zipper. Ring: Saskia Diez;


Sandals: Jimmy Choo.

BS_Fashion2_BlueWhite_Spr15.indd 37

1/16/15 5:49 PM

style savvy

CASUAL
ELEGANCE
You dont have to sacrifice comfort for
the sake of style. These casual pants
pair perfectly with blouses and
sophisticated jewelry for a look that is
effortlessly chic. Or lay on the sequins,
sparkles, and stylish accents the
laid-back look of these stretchy trousers
tones down more extravagant pieces to
bring you the best of both worlds.

BURDASTYLE
GERMANYS
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
DAGMAR BILY SAYS:

SIGHT
SEEING

GLITTER
AND GOLD
Jacket, BurdaStyle
12/13, Style 111

SUBTLE-TEE
T-shirt, Bruno
Manetti

IN THE
BAG
Purse,
Liu Jo

These cute
workout
pants are

GO GREEN
Earrings,
Chaingang
SMOOTH
OPERATOR
Hair Oil, LOral

SNAPSHOT
Camera, Lomo LC
Wide

WORKOUT PANTS
112-022015-US
ON PAGE 35

38

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BS_StyleSavvy_Spr15.indd 38

TWINKLE
TOES
Boots, Sendra

PHOTOS: JAN SCHMIEDEL; ACHIM GRAF (1). PRODUCTION: CHIARA BRUNET.

one of my favorite
pieces for spring.
Just like jeans or leggings,
they can be styled to look
good with almost anything.
Ill wear them when Im
relaxing at home, or add
a classy top, heels, and
sparkling accessories for
wearing at the office or on a
night out. The casual pants
and glamorous top balance
each other out for an outfit
that looks great day and
night.

SPRING 2015

1/22/15 2:22 PM

LUNCH
DATE

BRIGHT
WHITE
Blouse, BurdaStyle
09/13, Style 118B

CORAL COAST
Top, BurdaStyle.com
(Top With Shoulder Tabs)

FOCAL
POINT
Necklace,
Maliparmi
by Conleys

20/20
VISION
Sunglasses,
Dragon
Alliance

BUTTON
UP
Blazer, Oui

APERITIF
DOWN

SUNSHINE
STATE
Bag, Aigner

GO FOR
GOLD
Clutch,
AGL
RIGHT
ON TIME
Watch,
Calvin Klein

SWEETLY
SCENTED
Perfume, Geste,
Humiecki and Graef
RAISE A
GLASS
Mint and
lime
cocktail

LUSH
LOCKS
Dry shampoo,
Bumble and
Bumble
WALK
THIS WAY
Sandals, AGI

STRAP HAPPY
Sandals, Buffalo

SPRING 2015

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burda style.com

39

1/22/15 2:21 PM

burda woman

TIMELESS

BLOUSE WITH PLEATED


NECKLINE 133-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 44 52

This classic wardrobe


staple gets a few updates
for spring. The white
blouse has a relaxed fit
and center back closure,
as well as darts and
pleating to flatter the bust.
FABRIC & NOTIONS
Poplin, buttons. Bag: Louis
Vuitton; Trousers: Triangle
by S.Oliver; Sandals:
Michael by Michael Kors.

40

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SPRING 2015

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1/16/15 6:03 PM

CJ

oncrete
ungle
Animal prints are in this season,
so why not bring a taste of the
wild to the big city with one of
summers hottest trends! Mix in
neutrals and earth tones to keep
the look casual and sophisticated
IN SIZES 44 52
PHOTOGRAPHY: NICOLE NEUMANN
PRODUCTION: ANASTASIOS VOULGARIS

BS_Fashion3_UrbanJungle_Spr15.indd 41

1/16/15 6:03 PM

burda woman

This blouse
helps
minimize a
wider
waistline

COSMOPOLITAN

KEYHOLE BLOUSE 132-022015-US PATTERN INSERT


LEATHER-ACCENT PANTS 134A-022015-US
BOTH BURDA SIZES 44 52

This classy blouse is a definite head-turner. Ribbon ties


close the ruffled neckline, while bust darts add shape
to the relaxed silhouette. The stylish snakeskin
trousers are made for comfort and wearability with a
stretch leather waistband and flared ankles.
FABRIC & NOTIONS
Blouse: washed silk, ribbon. Pants: stretch twill,
stretch leather, trouser hook, button. Glasses: Prada;
Bag: Boss; Gold bangle: Tiffany & Co.; Shoes: Buffalo.

42

burda style.com

SPRING 2015

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1/16/15 6:04 PM

URBAN GIRL

WRAP TOP 137-022015-US


ANIMAL PRINT BOOTCUT
PANTS 134B-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BOTH BURDA SIZES 44 52

This jersey wrap shirt


stands out with its waistcinching tie belt and unique
sleeve slits. The relaxed-fit
blouse pairs nicely with the
sleek trousers that feature
a front yoke and flared
ankles.
FABRIC & NOTIONS
Shirt: jersey; Pants: stretch
twill, zipper, trouser hook,
button. Glasses: Ray-Ban;
Tank top: Iheart; Bag:
Chlo; Bracelets: Liu Jo
(gold); Escada (wooden);
Shoes: Buffalo.

SPRING 2015

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burda style.com

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1/16/15 6:04 PM

burda woman

ON THE MOVE

SQUARE NECKLINE TOP


135A-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 44 52

FABRIC & NOTIONS


Jersey. Glasses: Ray-Ban; Skirt:
Peter Hahn; Bracelets: Stella &
Dot (gold), Schniglich; Watch:
Guess Watches; Bag:
Longchamp; iPad and iPad case:
Apple; Sandals: Michael by
Michael Kors.

44

burda style.com

HAIR AND MAKEUP: MANUELA DEGELMANN.

This simple top with 3/4-length


sleeves is fitted but
comfortable, made in a soft
stretch jersey. A square
neckline and a banded bust
panel add a touch of style to
this everyday top, making it the
perfect spring wardrobe basic.

SPRING 2015

BS_Fashion3_UrbanJungle_Spr15.indd 44

1/16/15 6:05 PM

STREET SMARTS

KNOTTED TOP 136-022015-US


PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZE 44 52

With its faux wraparound front, low neckline, and


decorative gathers, this jersey top will make even a
simple skirt or jeans look stylish and put-together.
The neckline is stabilized with interfacing to
prevent it from stretching out of shape.
FABRIC & NOTIONS
Jersey. Glasses: Persol; Necklace: Escada; iPad
and iPad case: Apple; Bracelets: Guess Jewels;
Skirt: BurdaStyle 09/2009.
SPRING 2015

BS_Fashion3_UrbanJungle_Spr15.indd 45

burda style.com

45

1/22/15 2:26 PM

accessorize
METALLIC MAVEN
This cuff, which boasts
five steel-treated
hexagons as the center
point, cant be worn with
hesitation. Be fearless or
go home. Annchich, $120.
FACE OFF
The Dream Rose
Automatic Quartz watch
with a stunning brown
strap elicits a subtle
safari vibe. Tissot,
$3,750.

ON GUARD
Protect your
essentials (be it a
compass, map, or
your notes) for your
next board meeting
with this elegant
metallic tweed and
leather envelopestyle clutch. Made to
keep your MacBook
beautifully protected,
this stylish piece can
easily double as a
chic clutch.
MODA:KO, $250.

URBAN JUNGLE
Veer away from the pack and stand out as
the queen with these eye-catching pieces that
will make them roar
BY HINA P. ANSARI

CHEETAH CHIC
Slip into the Tassie sandal and its
chic cheetah print as you sprint from
your meetings to your mani and then
out to mocktails. Aldo, $70.
46

burda style.com SPRING 2015

BS_Accessorize1_UrbanJungle_Spr15.indd 46

1/16/15 6:08 PM

THREE-POINT
TURN
Stop traffic or clear
the crowd with this
stunning Tribeca
Pochette in gold
metallic. With a
glimmer of gold and a
cute wristlet, this bag
adds a perfect
shimmer to your
already-fierce look.
Blacksea, $695.

REGAL
BRILLIANCE
The Palace necklace is stylish
and substantive. When a queen
needs to shine, what better way
to do so than with this? Rosena
Sammi, $66.

WRAP IT UP
Beautiful marine-inspired rope
bracelets invite you to pile it on
without thinking twice. Kiel
James Patrick (striped), $75.

PACK A PUNCH
Not only does this
gorgeous black tote
make a statement (in
vegan leather no-less),
but by purchasing this
Sunday Tote II, youll
be making a
donation to
Melanoma
Research
Foundation.
Angela &
Roi, $150.

STEP IN
THE SUN
The Cairo bootie,
with an architectural
flair in the heel and
beautiful mesh floral
pattern, adds a
delightful dash of
femininity to the
seriously city-chic
look. Carolinna
Espinosa, $295.

STYLISH SCAN
With these stylish
Maverick aviatorstyle sunnies, you
can scan your
surroundings with
epic style. TOMS,
$139. With every pair
of TOMS you
purchase, TOMS will
help restore sight to
a person in need. One
for One.

SHEATHS OF STYLE
How can one resist these framing your
face? Stunning gold Geo Arch brass
earrings with their timeless African
motif catch the rays while you are on
the hunt. Annchich, $92.

SPRING 2015

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burda style.com

47

1/16/15 6:08 PM

burda fashion

FIRST DANCE

DRESS WITH TOP AND


TRAIN 110-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 36 44

With one look at


this collection of
enchanting wedding
gowns, youre sure
to fall in love all
over again

This classic and elegant


gown is fit for a fairy tale,
with a full, flared skirt
and romantic train. The
contoured bodice and
shoulder-skimming oval
neckline create a
feminine, figure-flattering
silhouette.
FABRIC & NOTIONS
Embroidered organza,
satin, invisible zipper.
Earrings and ring:
Thomas Sabo.

PHOTOGRAPHY:
DANA VAN LEEUWEN
PRODUCTION:
MIRIAM NOWAK AYALA

Say

I Do
Style
Idea
As you sew the
satin bodice, add a
layer of lace as an
eye-catching accent.
48

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BS_Fashion4_BigDay_Spr15v2.indd 48

SPRING 2015

1/16/15 6:13 PM

MR. AND MRS.

LACE DRESS WITH FAUX TOP


109A-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 36 44

Dare to be different with this


contemporary style on your
wedding day. A stylish
peplum divides the bodice
and skirt of the dress, so you
have the option of mixing
and matching your fabrics.
FABRIC & NOTIONS
Lace, silk, invisible zipper.
Bracelet: Thomas Sabo; Veil:
Alida.

BS_Fashion4_BigDay_Spr15v2.indd 49

1/16/15 6:13 PM

LOVE STORY

BUSTIER TOP WEDDING


DRESS 116B-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 17 21

You dont need a revealing


dress to look strikingly
seductive on your wedding
day. Long sleeves and
covered shoulders allow
for modesty while the
sweetheart neckline and
fit-and-flare silhouette
accentuate your curves.
FABRIC & NOTIONS
Jacquard, invisible zipper.
Bracelet: Thomas Sabo.

An open
sweetheart
neckline
enhances
the bust and
highlights the
collarbone

This
dress is
in petite
sizes
17-21

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burda fashion

TRUE LOVE

TULLE WEDDING GOWN


122-022015-US

This
dress is
in tall
sizes
72-88

PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 72 88

This long, flowing gown is


like a daydream come to
life. The satin bodice is
fitted to the hips, where
its met by long, flowing
layers of chiffon and lace.
Sheer flutter sleeves add
a delicate finish.

HAIR AND MAKEUP: YOKAW FOR LAURA MERCIER/ANGELIQUE HOORN MANAGEMENT.

FABRIC & NOTIONS


Tulle lace, satin, chiffon,
invisible zipper.

Style
Idea
To enhance this
dreamy, romantic
look, pair it with
a delicate veil
and subtle
sparkling
accessories.

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accessorize

JUST THE
RIGHT DROP
Beautifully shaped in the
narcissus flower, which
symbolizes the end of winter
and the beginning of a
fruitful and prosperous new
season. Set includes
necklace above and
earrings, opposite page.
Jemily, $660.

PINK PETALS
This 18k Rose
Hanabira Ring
with Sapphire and
Tourmaline is a
wonderful way to
keep the spirit of
springtimes
bouquet with you
everywhere.
Suz Somersall,
$1,876.

BRIDAL
BEAUTY

CLASSIC TIME
This watch adds
subtle sophistication
with the mini size and
feminine round case.
Don it as your way of
adding that extra
sparkle (diamond
options available),
while being sure to
remember every
second of that
memorable day.
Tissot, $1,025.

If its your special day or that of someone you


love, celebrate the moment with pieces that
herald in the blossoming season
BY HINA P. ANSARI

FLAT RATE FABULOUSNESS


Whether worn at the bridal shower or when getting ready on the big
day, these fun, metallic ballet slippers with a hint of hardware offer just
the right combination of flirt and fun! ALDO, $55.
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STEPPING
IN STYLE
U.K-based designer
Aruna Seth is always a
heel up when it comes
to her fun designs. Her
fantastic Candy pumps
(available in pink and
white) with beaded
heels embrace the
freshest of hues and
add a superb wow
factor! Aruna Seth,
$1,300.

CIRCLE OF HOPE
This silver bracelet has an
equal balance of delicate and
bold. Beautiful baubles spread
out the fine chain link giving
this piece subtle yet
substantive beauty.
Links of London, $225.

POLK A DOT PERFECTION


A cheerful clutch that doubles as an
iPad mini case is just the right touch of
joie de vivre when looking to carry your
essentials during pre- and post-wedding
festivities, or pretty much anytime,
really. MODA:KO, $45.
NEXT LEVEL
SOPHISTICATION
Whether you are the bride
or a guest, you cant go
wrong with this pink
stardust sapphire clutch.
Its a conversation starter
and stopper in one.
Huntress, $10,000.

SPARKLE AND SHINE


This set (see necklace on
opposite page), in silver with
diamonds and tourmaline
embellishments, completes
any ensemble. Jemily, $660.

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burda fashion

white
HOT
Clean-cut lines and simple details make a statement in shades of
gray and white, creating a collection of chic and modern styles
PHOTOGRAPHY: CARLOS ALSINA
PRODUCTION: SABINE MAEULEN

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burda fashion

STEP IT UP

EVENING JUMPSUIT
107A-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 36 44

This one-piece jumpsuit


looks polished and put
together with pleated
trousers and a wrapstyle front. The silver
insert at the neckline is
a convenient feature,
preventing the low-cut
collar from being too
revealing while
eliminating the need to
wear a shirt underneath.
FABRICS & NOTIONS

Crpe, zipper, snap


fasteners. Necklace: Tiffany
& Co.; Clutch: Kennel &
Schmenger; Shoes: Buffalo.

Sewing
hint
Have someone
measure the
exact length of
your back and
adjust the length
of the pattern
accordingly so
that the legs and
back will fit
perfectly.

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burda fashion

This
dress is
in petite
sizes
17-21

UNDER WRAPS
CRISS-CROSS V-NECK
DRESS 117.1-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 17 21

Shaped bands along the


bustline are an intriguing
addition to this seductive
dress, intersecting at the
front and wrapping
around to the back. A
back slit on the skirt
allows for easy
movement.
FABRICS & NOTIONS

On her: Dress: stretch


jacquard, invisible zipper.
Sandals: Buffalo. On him:
shirt: Boss; Jeans: Karl
Lagerfeld; Shoes: Jil Sander.

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burda fashion

SPOTLIGHT

FUNNEL-NECK DRESS
112.1-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 34 42

Be the center of attention


in this captivating style.
The unique dress is sewn
with only one side-seam
and fitted to the figure
with vertical darts and
side hip gathers. It also
has asymmetrical sleeves
and a draped collar.
FABRICS & NOTIONS

Stretch cloqu. Belt: Allude;


Arm jewelry: privately owned.

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burda fashion

SPACE AGE

WINGS DRESS 108.1-022015-US


BURDA SIZES 36 44

This alluring dress has a fashionably futuristic appeal,


catching the eye with a sleek boat neckline and
structured silhouette. A unique overskirt gives the dress
its enticing shape.
FABRICS & NOTIONS

Piqu, invisible zipper. Watch: Certina; Sandals: Kennel & Schmenger.

Sewing
hint
Fabric with some
stiffness is needed
to maintain the
structured
silhouette of the
dress.

CROSS THE LINE

X-WRAP DRESS 106.1-022015-US

BURDA SIZES 36 44

The crossover shawl collar is the most


striking feature of this short-sleeved dress.
The soft silk fabric allows it to fall
beautifully over your body.
FABRICS & NOTIONS

On her: washed silk, invisible zipper. Bangle: Elsa


Peretti for Tiffany & Co.; Clutch: Allude. On him:
jacket: BurdaStyle; Watch: Michael Kors.

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burda fashion

DYNAMIC DUO

KNIT V-NECK PULLOVER


109.1-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT

SKINNY PANTS WITH HIP


YOKE 110A-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BOTH BURDA SIZES 34 44

This slinky sweater with


overcut shoulders looks
clean-cut and casual
when paired with white
pleated trousers. The
trousers taper at the
ankle for a smooth,
tailored finish.
FABRICS & NOTIONS

On her: Sweater: knit fabric.


Pants: silk crpe, invisible
zipper. Necklace: Pomellato;
Bangle: privately owned;
Sandals: Gabor. On him:
Watch: Calvin Klein; T-shirt:
Cos; Sweater: Boss; Shoes:
Jil Sander.

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burda fashion

SIMPLY
STUNNING

FUNNEL-NECK TOP
111A-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 34 42

CUMBERBUND SKIRT
114-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 34 44

Simplicity at its finest!


The light gray knit top is
easy to sew and features
a flattering cowl
neckline. It looks
stunning tucked into the
high-waisted skirt, which
features a contoured
waistband and tie belt.
FABRICS & NOTIONS

Top: jersey. Skirt: poplin,


invisible zipper. Earrings:
Tiffany & Co.; Watch: Karl
Lagerfeld; Shoes: Strenesse.

WHITE KNIGHT
MENS LINEN JACKET
128-022015-US
MENS LINEN PANTS
129-022015-US

BOTH BURDA SIZES 48 56

Hell be on every best-dressed list


in this stylish jacket and trouser
ensemble. Both pieces are
lightweight and breathable, and
dont require a lining. The versatile
jacket can also be worn with shorts
for a casual, everyday look.
FABRICS & NOTIONS

Silk linen, buttons, zipper. Shirt: Boss;


Watch: Michael Kors.

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burda fashion

STRAIGHT
AND NARROW
WRAP BLOUSE
115A-022015-US
PATTERN INSERT
BURDA SIZES 34 42

LOW-RISE CROPPED
PANTS 116-022015-US
BURDA SIZES 34 44

Its all about the angles


with this sharp ensemble!
These 78 -length trousers
lengthen the leg with
long, crisp creases, and
the asymmetrical top
stands out with a
dramatic crossover front.
FABRICS & NOTIONS

Blouse: crpe. Pants: wool


tissue faille, buttons.
Necklace: Tiffany; Shoes:
Santoni.

Style
idea

HAIR AND MAKEUP: TINA MONZN.

If youd prefer a
longer blouse,
you can easily
adjust the
pattern to your
desired length.

SPRING 2015

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LIMITED
QUANTITIES!

Pattern Kit of the Month

LIMITED EDITION KITS


provide everything you need to
create a customized version of
a popular burdastyle pattern.

Pattern PDF download


Step-by-step instructions
Technique how-to videos
Optional pattern alterations
Styling guides

www.interweavestore.com/sewing-kits
BurdaStyle Kit-of-the-Month ad.indd 62

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SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
Spring 2015

ALL STYLES AT A GLANCE


THE SWEET LIFE Pages 26-31
104

101

107

111

117
115

106

105
109

PATTERN
INSERT
PATTERN
INSERT

PATTERN
INSERT

PATTERN
INSERT

PATTERN
INSERT

WHITE HOT Pages 54-61


107 A

108.1

117.1

106.1

109.1

115 A

PATTERN
INSERT

112.1

128

PATTERN
INSERT
111 A
110 A PATTERN
INSERT

114

CONCRETE JUNGLE Pages 40-45


133

136

135 A

129

116

PATTERN
INSERT

134 A

SAY I DO Pages 48-51


109 A

116 B

PATTERN
INSERT

PATTERN
INSERT

122

134 B

PHOTOS: U2/ULI GLASEMANN. PRODUCTION: MARIANNE MUSSLER.

PATTERN
INSERT

137

132

PATTERN
INSERT

PATTERN
INSERT

PATTERN
INSERT

PATTERN
INSERT

BLUE SKIES Pages 32-37


112

108

102

105 A
115.1

110

111.1
PATTERN
INSERT
113

PATTERN
INSERT

PATTERN
INSERT

104.1

SPRING 2015

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PATTERN
INSERT

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Instructions

If youve never used a Burda pattern before, or you need a little


reminder, these valuable hints will help make your garment a sure
success. Burda patterns are slightly different than other brands, so read
through these instructions thoroughly before you begin your project.
Some of the patterns in the magazine will be found on the pattern
insert sheets stapled into the magazine. To access those patterns,
bend the staples open, remove the sheets, then close the staples
again. The rest of the patterns are available as digital downloads at
BurdaStyle.com. Youll see the full URL beside the pattern number in
the following instruction pages.

Patterns on the insert sheets.


n Burda patterns available on the insert sheets include 58" (1.5
cm) seam allowances and 112" (3.8 cm) hem allowances.
n In the garments pattern overview box in the sewing instructions, youll find the color of the pattern line (red, blue, green,
or black), the pattern sheet location (AD), the pattern piece
numbers, the size outlines, and the pattern piece flats.
n To find the pattern pieces, look for each pattern piece number in
the stated color along the edge of the appropriate pattern sheet.
For example, if your garment has its pattern in green on sheet C
and includes pieces 17, look along the edges of pattern
sheet C to find the number 1 written in green. Once youve found
that, use it as your starting point to follow an imaginary line
perpendicular to the pattern sheet edge until you point to the
green 1 along a pattern piece cutting line. Thats the pattern piece
you need. Do the same for the remaining pattern piece numbers.
n Some pattern pieces may have been split in two to fit on the
pattern insert sheets. If this is the case, the pattern piece
number (1 for example) will be seen on the indicated sheet a
second time with the letter a. You will combine piece 1 with
piece 1a by lining up the joining line (a double line) and
matching the small triangles.
n Trace the pattern pieces onto pattern paper.
n Copy all markings and seam numbers onto your new paper
pattern pieces. Check them against the drawings in the
instructions to ensure they were copied correctly.

Additional
information:
n The fabric requirements given
are based on the fabric used in
our original designs. These
amounts will change if you use
fabric of a different width.
n The cutting layouts included
with the sewing instructions
show our recommended way to
place the pattern pieces. Unless
instructed otherwise, fold the
fabric in half with the right sides
together, bringing together the
opposing selvedges. When
cutting from a single layer of
fabric, the right side of the
fabric should face up.
n Pattern pieces shown in the
cutting layout with broken
outlines should be pinned to
the fabric with the printed
side facing down.
n Pattern pieces shown in the
cutting layout with shading
require interfacing. Shaded
areas of a larger pattern piece
require interfacing for that
particular portion.
n Transfer the pattern piece
lines to the wrong side of the
fabric with tailors chalk.
Hand-baste along placement
lines (e.g. for pockets or center
front) to make them visible on
the right side of the fabric.

Patterns available as downloads


n Burda patterns available as digital downloads can be purchased online at BurdaStyle.com. Most
do not include seam and hem allowances. We recommend adding 58" (1.5 cm) for seams and
112" (3.8 cm) for hems. Instructions may indicate otherwise, but if not, this is the standard.
n To download the pattern pieces needed, go to the URL listed in the sewing instructions and find
the appropriate garments PDF.
n Print your pattern PDF (using the latest version of Adobe Reader) on 812" 11" (A4) paper.
Select the option to print the PDF at its actual size. Do not select fit to page.
n Assemble your PDF pages, following the instructions included with the download.

TIP

Fabrics may shrink when laundered for the first time, especially those made of

cotton, linen, and rayon. To avoid shrinkage of the finished garment, these fabrics
should be pre-treated (washed and dried before cutting out the fabric pieces). Use the
temperature settings you plan to use for the finished garment. If you want to test the
amount of shrinkage of your fabric, cut a square of the fabric and measure it exactly.
Finish the edges, then wash it, and compare the size after washing with the original size.

64

burda style.com

Symbols
Armhole markings
These small lines at the edges
of the sleeve and front
armhole pieces must meet
when the sleeve is set in.
Fold
Broken line
In the cutting layout,
the broken line indicates
the fold edge of a
double layer of fabric.
Selvedges
Button

Buttonhole

Eyelet opening

Fold line
In the pattern overview
box, this broken line
means that the pattern
edge must be placed on
a fold and not cut.
Joining line
Large pattern pieces that cannot
fit on the pattern insert sheet will
be in two pieces. These pieces
must be taped together after they
have been traced onto pattern
paper. A double line indicates the
joining line and small triangles
indicate match points.
Lengthening
If a pattern piece is too long to fit on
the pattern insert sheet, you will need
to lengthen it when you trace the
pattern piece onto pattern paper.
Lengthen the pattern from the point
of the arrow by the amount indicated
in centimeters at the arrow.
Pleat symbol
Fold the pleat in the direction
of the arrow.
Presser foot
A presser foot image indicates seam
and topstitching lines.
Scissors
Scissors indicate slash lines, such as
welt pocket openings. (On downloadable patterns, scissors indicate
edges to be cut without an added
seam allowance.)
Seam marks
Shown on long seams,
these small lines perpendicular to the cutting line
indicate edges to be
matched. Match the seam
marks to one another.
Seam numbers
Adjacent pattern pieces
that must be sewn
together are indicated
with the same seam
numbers. Match pieces
with the same numbers.
Slit/Placket mark
This small, thick line that
intersects the cutting line
indicates beginning or
end of a slit or placket.

Placket/slit mark

The following symbols will only be found on


the pattern pieces in the pattern overview
box. On the pattern insert sheet and on the
downloadable pattern pieces, the words are
written out.
Ease
Gather
Stretch

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TAKING MEASUREMENTS
1

For the best fit, its important to take precise measurements. Measure your body while wearing underwear or close-fitting
garments, and have someone assist you if needed. Use a flexible measuring tape to measure around your body, ensuring the tape
is taut but not tight and parallel to the floor. Stand upright with a relaxed posture, and breathe normally while you measure.
1 Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust. Neck
circumference: Measure the circumference at the base of the neck
and above the collarbone.
2 Waist: Measure around your natural waist, the narrowest part.
Hips: Measure horizontally around the fullest part of your bottom
and upper thighs.
Additional measurements:
3 Front waist length: Measure from the side base of the neck over
the apex of the bust to the natural waistline. Bust depth: Measure
from the side base of the neck to the apex of the bust.

4 Back waist length: Measure from the base of your neck to the
natural waistline. Back width: Measure horizontally between your
arm attachment points.
5 Shoulder: Measure from the base of your neck to the tip of your
shoulder. Upper arm: Measure around the fullest part of your
upper arm.
6 Arm length: With your arm slightly bent, measure from the tip of
your shoulder over the elbow to the natural waistline.

Important: Compare your body measurements to the appropriate Burda size chart here or on BurdaStyle.com.
Circle each of your body measurements on the size chart since you may want to adjust your pattern to fit a range
of sizes. Your Burda size will be different from your regular store-bought clothing size.
WOMENS SIZE CHART (Regular) inches
BURDA SIZE
32 34 36 38
HEIGHT
6614 6614 6614 6614
BUST
30 3112 33 3434
WAIST
23 2412 26 2734
HIP
3212 34 3512 37
BACK LENGTH 1534 16 1614 1612
SLEEVE LENGTH 2314 2314 2314 2334
NECK WIDTH
13 1338 1334 1418
SIDE LEG
LENGTH
3934 4014 4014 4034
FRONT WAIST
LENGTH
1612 17 1714 1734
BUST POINT
912 978 1014 1034
UPPER ARM
CIRCUMFERENCE 978 1014 1034 1118

MENS SIZE CHART (Regular) inches


40
6614
3614
2914
3834
1616
2334
1412

42
6614
3734
3034
4014
1634
24
15

41

41

44
6614
3912
3212
4134
17
24
1538

46
6614
41
34
4312
1718
24
1534

48
6614
4312
3614
4512
1714
24
1618

50
6614
4512
3834
48
1712
2412
1612

52
6614
48
41
5012
1734
2412
17

54
6614
5012
4312
5234
18
2434
1714

56
6614
52
4512
5514
1814
2434
1734

58
6614
55
48
5712
1812
2434
1818

60
6614
5712
5012
60
1812
2434
1812

4112 4112 4112 4134 4134 4134 4214 4212 4212

1818 1812 19 1914 1934 2014 2012 21 2114 2134 2214


1118 1112 1178 1214 1234 13 1312 1414 1412 1434 15
1112 1178 1214 1234 1312 1412 15

WOMENS SIZE CHART (Petite) inches


* These sizes are Burda petite sizes and differ in height from the regular sizes.
The height measurements are from 63 to 66 inches. If you are taller than 66
inches, you can make alterations to the length of the garment, the sleeve length,
etc. to fit your measurements.
BURDA SIZE
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
HEIGHT
63
63
63
63
63
63
63
63
BUST
30
31 33 34 36 37 39 41
WAIST
23
24 26 27 29 30 32 34
HIP
32
34 35 37
38 40 41 43
16 1618 16 1638
BACK LENGTH
15
15 1538 15
SLEEVE LENGTH
22 22 22 23
23 23 23 23
NECK WIDTH
13
1338 13 1418 14 15 1538 15
SIDE LEG LENGTH
38 38 38 39
39 39 39 39
FRONT WAIST
LENGTH
15 16 16 17
17 17 1818 18
9 978 10 10 1118 11 1178
BUST POINT
918
UPPER ARM
CIRCUMFERENCE
978 10 10 1118 11 1178 12 12

1534 1612 1714 1814

BURDA SIZE 44

48

50 52

54

56

HEIGHT

66 67 68 69 71 71 72

CHEST

3458 36 37 39 41 42 44

WAIST

30 32 34 35 37 38 41

SEAT

35 37 38 40 40 43 45

BACK
LENGTH

16 17 17 17 17 18 18

ARM
LENGTH

24 24 24 25 25 26 26

NECK

14 15 15 15 16 16 17

WOMENS SIZE CHART (Tall) inches


* These sizes are Burda tall sizes and differ in height from the regular sizes. The
height measurement is 69 inches and up. If you are shorter than 69 inches,
you can make alterations to the length of the garment, the sleeve length, etc. to
fit your measurements.
BURDA SIZE
64
68
72
76
80
84
88
92
HEIGHT
69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69
BUST
30 31
33 34 36 37 39 41
WAIST
23 24
26 27 29 30 32 34
HIP
32 34
35 37 38 40 41 43
BACK LENGTH
16 16
17
1718 17 17 17 18
SLEEVE LENGTH
24
24
24 24 24 24 24 24
15 1538 15
NECK WIDTH
13 1338 13 1418 14
SIDE LEG LENGTH 41 41 41 42 42 42 43
43
FRONT WAIST
19 19 20
LENGTH
17 17 1818 18 19
BUST POINT
978 10 10 1118 11 1178 12 12
UPPER ARM
CIRCUMFERENCE
978 10 10 1118 11 1178 12 12
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SEWING INFORMATION

INTERFACING Most Burda garments use fusible


interfacing, and the pieces that require interfacing are
indicated on the cutting layout by gray shading. If the
fabric is not compatible with fusible interfacing,
substitute sew-in. Follow the manufacturers
instructions for all fusible interfacings, as some
require moisture for proper fusing and others do not.
Always test interfacing on a scrap of your garment
fabric to be sure its compatible and adds the needed
body and stability.
INVISIBLE ZIPPER Many Burda designs feature an
invisible zippertheyre easy to install and no
topstitching shows on the finished application,
making for a clean, smooth seam. You will need a
special invisible zipper foot for installation, and
theyre available where zippers are sold. Be sure to
get the version that fits your machine model. Invisible

zippers are installed before the seam is sewn, unlike


conventional zippers where the seam is sewn to the
opening, and then the zipper is installed.
NOTIONS Each pattern indicates notions specific to
that design. In addition, you will require fabric
scissors, pins, tailors chalk, matching threads, and
other sewing essentials, plus tools for tracing pattern
pieces including paper scissors, rulers, tape, and
pattern paper. Garments with zippers require the use
of a zipper foot for your machineeither a standard
foot for regular zippers, or an invisible zipper foot for
invisible zippers.
SEAM FINISHING Its always a good idea to finish
raw edges on woven fabrics, but knits do not usually
require finishing. Seam allowances should be finished
separately unless otherwise indicated. Use an
overedge, zigzag or overcast stitch for finishing, or
serge raw edges. Lined garments generally do not
require seam finishing as seams will be encased by
the lining.
UNDERSTITCHING Understitching involves
edgestitching the seam allowance to the garment
underside so that the lining or facing remains on the
inside of the garment and doesnt roll out. To
understitch, press the seam allowances toward the
lining or facing, then trim and grade the seam
allowances and clip curves if needed. With the fabric
facing right side up, edgestitch on the lining/facing
side, sewing through all seam allowances to hold
them in place. Understitching is not visible on the
outside of the garment and is most commonly found
along necklines and armholes.

To install an invisible
zipper, follow these steps:
n Open the zipper and push the zipper teeth/
coil back with your thumbnail to reveal the
seamline marking between the zipper tape
and the coil. Place the open zipper right-side
down on the fabric right side of one opening
edge, and align the invisible zipper seamline
marking with the fabric seamline. (The zipper
tape will be on the same side as the fabric
edge.) Pin the zipper tape in place. The
bottom end of the zipper will extend past the
marked opening end. Place the invisible zipper
foot over the zipper so the coil is in one of the
notches and the needle is aligned with the
seamline. Stitch the zipper in place from the
top down. Close the zipper.
n Place the other zipper tape right-side down
on the right side of the fabric of the opposite
opening edge. Align, pin, and sew the other
side of the zipper in place just as you did in
the previous step. Close the zipper.
n Stitch the seam below the zipper, from the
bottom to the top. As you approach the
bottom of the zipper, turn the loose lower
end of the zipper out of the way. Stitch as
close as possible to the last stitches of the
zipper seams. The zipper tail remains loose
inside the garment, or you can trim it and
bind the ends if desired.

GLOSSARY OF TERMS AND TECHNIQUES


BACKSTITCH Stitching in reverse for a short
distance at the beginning and end of a seamline to
secure the stitches. Most machines have a button
or knob for this function (also called backtack).
BASTING Using long, loose stitches to hold
something in place temporarily. To baste by
machine, use the longest straight stitch length
available on your machine. To baste by hand,
use stitches at least 14" (6 mm) long. Use a
contrasting thread to make the stitches easier
to spot for removal.
BIAS The direction across a fabric at a 45-degree
angle from the lengthwise or crosswise grain. The
bias has high stretch and a very fluid drape.
DART This stitched triangular fold is used to give
shape and form to the fabric to fit body curves.

66

crosswise. The lengthwise grain runs parallel to


the selvedges; the crosswise grain should always
be perpendicular to the lengthwise threads. In
knit fabrics, the lengthwise grain runs along the
wales (ribs), parallel to the edges, with the
crosswise grain running along the courses
(perpendicular to the wales).
GRAINLINE A pattern marking showing the
direction of the grain. Make sure the grainline
marked on the pattern runs parallel to the
lengthwise grain of your fabric, unless the grainline
is specifically marked as crosswise or bias.
INTERFACING Material used to stabilize or
reinforce fabrics. Fusible interfacing has an
adhesive coating on one side that adheres to fabric
when ironed.

EDGESTITCH A row of topstitching placed very


close (116"18" [23 mm]) to an edge or an
existing seamline.

RIGHT SIDE The front side, or the side that should


be on the outside of a finished garment. On a
printed fabric, the print will be stronger on the
right side of the fabric.

FABRIC GRAIN The grain is created in a woven


fabric by the threads that travel lengthwise and

RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER The right sides of two


fabric layers should be facing each other.

burda style.com

SEAM ALLOWANCE The amount of fabric


between the raw edge and the seamline.
SELVEDGE This is the tightly woven border on the
lengthwise edges of woven fabric and the finished
lengthwise edges of knit fabric.
STITCH IN THE DITCH Stitches sewn directly
into the ditch of a seamline. To stitch in the
ditch, lay the garment right-side up under the
presser foot. Sew in the ditch between the
two fabric pieces, and the stitches will disappear
into the seam.
TOPSTITCH Used to hold pieces firmly in place and/
or to add a decorative effect, a topstitch is simply a
stitch that can be seen on the outside of the garment
or piece. To topstitch, make a line of stitching on the
outside (right side) of the piece, usually a set distance
from an existing seam or edge.
WRONG SIDE The wrong side of the fabric is the
underside, or the side that should be on the inside
of a finished garment. On a print fabric, the print
will be lighter or less obvious on the wrong side of
the fabric.

2014 Verlag Aenne Burda GmbH & Co. KG, Hubert-Burda-Platz 2, 77652 Offenburg, Germny. All designs anre copyrighted. Copying for commercial purposes is prohibited.

EASE PLEAT Coat and jacket linings require some


ease to allow for movement, and the simplest way to
provide that is by adding an ease pleat at the center
back of the lining. Before cutting your fabric, add 34"
(2 cm) to the center back seam or center back fold of
the pattern, so youre actually adding a total of 112"
(3.8 cm) of extra fabric for ease. With right sides
together, 34" (2 cm) away from the center back edge,
stitch at the top and bottom of the back piece parallel
to the center back edge for 2" (5 cm). Backstitch at
the seam ends. In between those permanent stitching
lines, baste along the 34" (2 cm) line. Press the ease
pleat to one side, and baste across the top and
bottom to hold the pleat in place. Once the lining is
sewn into the garment, remove the basting to open
the ease pleat.

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project instructions

101-

022015-US
Tea Dress 
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 28
Finished length from waist: 24" (62cm)

Materials
Metallic print, 54" (137cm) wide: size 36:
2yds (2.2m); sizes 38, 40, 42: 258yds
(2.25m); size 44: 278yds (2.55m)
Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-9, 14, and 15 from pattern
sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); hem, 158"
(4cm); sleeve hems, " (2cm)

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Metallic print:
1center front, cut 1 on fold
2side front, cut 2
3center back, cut 2
4side back, cut 2
5sleeve front, cut 2
6sleeve back, cut 2

7front skirt with integrated pocket,


cut 1 on fold
8side skirt with integrated pocket,
cut 1 on fold
9back skirt, cut 2
14front neck facing, cut 1 on fold
15back neck facing, cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction
Stitch bust darts. Press darts down.
On bodice, stitch front and back section
seams and side seams. Press section seam
allowances toward center and press side
seam allowances open.
Stitch lower sleeve seams (seam number
4). Stitch sleeves to front and back pieces
(seam numbers 5 and 6). Press seam
allowances toward sleeves, from upper
edges to beginning of underarm curve.
Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve
seams, beginning and ending exactly on
marked neck edge. Press seam allowances
open.
Stitch darts in side skirt panels. Press
front darts forward and press side darts
toward back.
Fold front skirt along center, right sides
together. Stitch side edges of integrated
pockets together, from upper edge to corner.
Press seam allowances open. Turn skirt rightside out so pocket piece seam lies under
center front. Baste pleat folds to sides.
Lay front skirt on side skirts, with wrong
side facing right fabric side and with
integrated pocket pieces aligning. Pin pleat
folds to placement lines. On inside, stitch
integrated pocket pieces together as
marked. Stitch together along long edges
of integrated pleats (seam number 9) and

Cutting layouts

Burda pattern
skill levels
 Quick and easy, great for beginners
 Easy to sew, with simple features
 Easy to sew, but more timeconsuming
 Easy to intermediate level
 Intermediate difficulty, for
advanced learners
 Advanced level sewing,
with special features
 Challenging, detailed and
time-consuming for pros

along horizontal edges of integrated pocket


pieces. Baste pockets to inside of upper
skirt edge.
Stitch back skirt to side skirts (seam
number 10). Press seam allowances open.
Stitch skirt to bodice, easing upper
edges of front and back skirt panels. Press
seam allowances up.
Sew invisible zipper to back opening
edges (see instructions on page 66). Stitch
center back seam from lower edge to
zipper.
Stitch shoulder seams of facing,
beginning and ending exactly at marked
neck edge.
Face neck edge: With right sides
together, pin facing to neck edge. At zipper
opening, turn facing back 316" (5mm)
before opening edge, and pin to upper
edge. Turn opening edge seam allowances
to outside and pin to neck edge, over
facing. Stitch along neck edge. Turn
opening edge seam allowances to inside.

Red pattern line, sheets B1-B2


Pattern pieces 1 to 9, 14, and 15
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777

Metallic print, 54" (137cm) wide


Sizes 36 42
Fold

Selvedges

Size 44
Fold
Fold
Selvedge
Selvedge

Selvedges

Fold the fabric as shown in the


pattern layoutright sides
together on a double layer; right
side up on a single layer. Cut
right and left center back pieces
as opposites.

NZ_BS1402_101T

SPRING 2015

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67

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project instructions

Turn facing up and understitch as far as


possible, close to seam. Turn facing to
inside and hand-stitch to zipper tapes.
Hand-stitch inside facing edges to shoulder
seams.
Press hem allowances on dress and
sleeves to inside and hand-stitch in place.

102-

022015-US
Boucl Jacket

a) 2 pockets, 5" (14cm) long, and 538"


(13.5cm) wide
b) bias fringe strip, a total of 166" (420cm)
long, and 1" (2.5cm) wide (cut without
seam allowances)
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse interfacing to wrong side of
undercollar. Fuse bias stay tape to wrong
side of neck and armhole edges, and front
shoulder edges.

Construction


PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 32
Finished back length: 23" (58cm)
7
8-sleeves: 22" (56cm) long

Materials
Boucl, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 258yds
(2.35m) Note: Select a fabric that will fray
easily.
Lining scrap to cover snaps
Interfacing
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 4 large sewon snap fasteners
Note: To make both the jacket style 102022015-US and skirt style 104.1-022015US, you will need 3yds (2.9m) of 60"
(152.5cm) wide fabric. See skirt style
104.1-022015-US for amount of lining
fabric needed.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Trace
facing from piece 1 as a separate pattern
piece. Cut out all paper pieces.

Stitch center back seam. Stitch front and


back section seams. Stitch shoulder seams
and side seams. Stitch facing shoulder
seams. Press seam allowances open.
On upper edge of each pocket, zigzag
3
16" (5mm) from marked seam allowance.
Trim away seam allowance. Pin fringe strip to
upper pocket edge. Zigzag along fringe strip
center to attach. Fray strip edges and upper
pocket edge down to stitching. Press seam
allowances on front and side pocket edges
to inside. Pin pockets to fronts, 438" (11cm)
from marked front edges lower pocket
edges meet lower jacket edges. Edgestitch
front and side pocket edges and baste lower
edges in place, next to seam allowance.
Stitch undercollar to neck edge of jacket,
beginning and ending stitching exactly at seam
mark and clipping seam allowances into
corners. Clip seam allowance of fronts at seam
marks. Press collar attachment seam open.
Stitch top collar to facing in same manner.

68

burda style.com

Green pattern line, sheets B1-B2


Pattern pieces 1 to 8
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777

Cutting layouts
Boucl, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Fold

Jacket 102-022015-US
Selvedge

Fold

Selvedge

Selvedges

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Boucl:
1center front, cut 2
1 front facing, cut 2
2side front, cut 2
3center back, cut 2
4side back, cut 2
5upper sleeve, cut 2
6under sleeve, cut 2
7collar, cut 2 on fold
8back facing, cut 1 on fold

With wrong sides together, lay facing on


jacket, aligning upper and undercollar. Pin
collar attachment seams together. Along lapel
edges, front edges, hem edge, and outer
collar edges, zigzag 316" (5mm) from seam
allowances. Trim away seam allowances. Pin
fringe strips to front and hem edges,
beginning and ending 1" (3cm) above lapel
fold line. Stitch strips in place. Work from
facing side to stitch strips to lapel and collar
edges, beginning and ending 1" (3cm)
below lapel fold line, and making small folds
at corners of lapel and collar. Fray strip edges
and jacket edges up to stitching lines.

NZ_BS1403_102T

Fold the fabric as


shown in the
cutting layout
right sides
together on a
double layer;
right side up on
a single layer.

Fold

Jacket 102-022015-US and Skirt 104.1-022015-US


Selvedge
Fold

Fold

Selvedges

Selvedge

Selvedges

Fold

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project instructions

4 side back, cut 2


5 sleeve front, cut 2
6 sleeve back, cut 1
7 front facing, cut 1 on fold
8 back facing, cut 1 on fold
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

HELPFUL HINT
Cover snap fasteners
with lining fabric
For each snap half, cut a small circle of
lining fabric, slightly larger than the snap
half (1). Sew a line of short running stitches
along the edge of the piece (2) and do not
cut thread. Lay the snap half face down on
the wrong side of the lining fabric circle.
Pull the thread so that the lining covers the
snap smoothly. Use the thread to sew the
edges of the lining together, with crisscross
stitches (3). Hide the thread end securely.
Repeat for the second half of the snap.

Construction
Extra pattern, shaded pink, sheets
A1-A2
Pattern pieces 1 to 8
Size 34 3333
Size 36 4444
Size 38 55
Size 40 6666
Size 42 7777

2
3

NZ_BS1402_104T

Cutting layout
Stitch sleeve seams. On lower sleeve
edges, stitch 316" (5mm) from seam
allowances. Trim away seam allowances.
Stitch fringe strips to lower sleeve edges
and fray edges.
Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.
Cover snap fastener sections with lining
fabric (see instructions above). Sew top
halves of snaps to right front facing as
marked, taking even stitches and exiting
needle on fabric right side. Sew bottom
halves of snaps to left front edge in
corresponding positions.

104-

022015-US
Princess Seam
Boatneck Top

Piqu, 54" (137 cm) wide


Sizes 34-42
Fold

BS1402_104WS_Z
Nhschule
Read
Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
BurdaStyle
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Trace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Cut


out all paper pieces. It will be easier to cut
out the fabric pieces if you copy pieces 5
and 6 twice each.

Materials
Piqu, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36:
7
8yd (.8 m); sizes 38, 40, 42: 1 yd (.9 m)
Interfacing
Notions:
1 invisible zipper, 16" (40 cm) long; bias
tape, 158" (4 cm) wide: 20" (.5 m)

104.1-

022015-US
Flared Skirt 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1tq87kM

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 37
Finished skirt length: 23" (58cm)
Skirt upper edge sits 1" (3cm) below
normal waistline

Materials
Boucl, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 36, 38,
40: 78yd (.8m); sizes 42, 44: 1yd (.9m)
Note: Select a fabric that will fray easily.
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: yd (.55m) for
all sizes
Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22cm) long
Note: See style 102-022015-US for the total
fabric required to make both skirt style 104.1022015-US and jacket style 102-022015-US.

Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric, right
sides together.



Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42


on page 30

See detailed sewing instructions for top


style 104-022015-US on Sew This! on page
107 of the magazine.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Pique:
1 center front, cut 1 on fold
2 side front, cut 2
3 center back, cut 2

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for


general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Lining: To cut side front skirt lining piece,
tape pattern pieces 2 and 3 together, and
for side back skirt lining, tape pieces 5 and
6 together.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); no hem
allowance at flounce lower edges

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Boucl:
1center front skirt, cut 1 on fold

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project instructions

2lower side front skirt, cut 2


3upper side front skirt, cut 2
4center back skirt, cut 1 on fold
5lower side back skirt, cut 2
6upper side back skirt, cut 2
7hem flounce, cut 2 on fold
Lining:
1 center front skirt, cut 1 on fold
2-3 see note in Preparation"
4 center back skirt, cut 1 on fold
5-6 see note in Preparation"
Interfacing:
Fuse shaped strips of interfacing, 158"
(4cm) wide, to upper skirt lining edges.

Construction
On side front and back side skirt pieces,
stitch angled section seams (seam numbers
1 and 2).
Press seam allowances open. Stitch side
front skirt units to center front skirt and
stitch side back skirt units to center back
skirt. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch flounces to lower edges of skirt units.
Press seams open. Stitch right side seam.
Sew invisible zipper to left opening edges
(see instructions on page 66). Stitch left side
seam from lower edge to zipper opening.
Stitch lining seams, leaving zipper
opening as mirror image of skirt opening.
Narrowly hem skirt lining.
Upper skirt edge: With right sides
together, pull lining over skirt. Pin lining to
upper skirt edge. At zipper opening, turn
lining back 316" (5mm) before opening
edge, and pin to upper edge. Turn seam
allowances on skirt opening edges to
outside and pin to upper skirt edge, over
lining. Stitch along upper skirt edge. Turn
lining and opening seam allowances to
inside. Hand-stitch lining to zipper tapes.
Topstitch close to upper skirt edge.
With a small zigzag stitch, stitch 316"
(5mm) from lower flounce edge. Fray lower
edge of flounce up to stitching.

105-

022015-US
Pleated A-Line
Skirt 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1mdZXOe

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42,


on page 30
Finished skirt length: 25" (64cm)
Skirt sits at natural waistline

70

burda style.com

Materials
Piqu, 54" (137cm) wide: 1yds (1.45m)
for all sizes
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: yd (.4m) for
all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22cm) long;
1 button
Note: To make both the skirt style 105022015-US and top style 104-022015-US,
you will need 258yds (2.35m) of 54"
(137cm) wide piqu and yd (.4m) of
140cm wide lining.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet.
Lengthen piece 22 as indicated. Cut out all
paper pieces.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Piqu:
21front yoke, cut 2
22front skirt, cut 1 on fold
23back yoke, cut 2
24back skirt, cut 1 on fold
a) waistband, with 1" (2.5cm) underlap: size
34: 2658" (67.5cm); size 36: 2818" (71.5cm);
size 38: 2978" (75.5cm); size 40: 31"
(79.5cm); size 42: 3278" (83.5cm) long; and
2" (6cm) wide, excluding seam allowances
Lining:
21 front yoke, cut 2
23 back yoke, cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction
Stitch center seam of yoke front, ending
stitching at seamline on lower edge. Press
seam allowances open. Stitch darts in back
yokes and press toward center.
On back yoke, sew invisible zipper in
place at opening edges (see instructions on
page 66) and stitch center seam.
Fold pleats in skirt panels in direction of
arrows and press. Baste pleats to upper edge.
Stitch yoke front to skirt front and stitch
yoke back to skirt back, clipping seam
allowance of skirt back into corner. Press
seam allowances up.
Stitch side seams (seam number 3).
On yoke lining, stitch center front seam,
center back seam below opening mark, darts,
and side seams. With wrong sides together,

pull lining into skirt, turn in back seam


allowances, and hand-stitch to zipper tapes.
Baste lining to upper skirt edge. Turn in lower
lining edge and sew to yoke attachment seam.
Stitch waistband to upper skirt edge,
leaving underlap extending at right back
opening edge. Press seam allowances of
attachment seam and of other long edge
toward waistband. With right sides together,
fold waistband lengthwise. Stitch across ends.
Turn right-side out. Sew inside waistband
edge to attachment seam and sew underlap
edges together. Stitch buttonhole in left back
waistband end and sew button on right side
in corresponding position.
Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place.

105A-

022015-US
Cropped
Chambray
Blouse 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/TJr6MM

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 36
Finished back length: 20"(50cm)
Note: Back is 158" (4cm) longer than front.

Materials
Chambray, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 34,
36: 1yds (1.3m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44:
158yds (1.40m)
Interfacing
Notions: 2 medium buttons and 2 small
buttons.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Trace
pocket from piece 1 as a separate pattern
piece. Cut out all paper pieces.
Pleat arrow on piece 2 is marked for size
34. For other sizes, mark pleat arrow
according to size lines. Buttonhole on piece
5 is marked for size 34. For other sizes,
mark buttonhole according to size lines.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); front slit
edges, 1" (3.5cm); upper pocket edge,
1" (3.5cm); hem, 38" (1.5cm)

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown

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project instructions

and pin in place. Cut the following


numbered pieces:
Chambray:
1front, cut 2
1 pocket, cut 1
2back, cut 1 on fold
3yoke, cut 2 on fold
4sleeve, cut 2
5collar, cut 2 on fold
6collar stand, cut 2 on fold
a) 2 sleeve bands: size 34: 1278" (32.5cm);
size 36: 13" (33.5cm); size 38: 1358"
(34.5cm); size 40: 14" (35.5cm); size 42:
1438" (36.5cm); size 44: 14" (37.5cm)
long; and 4" (11cm) wide, excluding
seam allowances
b) 2 bias binding strips for sleeve vents,
6" (17cm) long, and 158" (4cm) wide,
including seam allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction
Stitch center front seam below slit
mark. Press seam allowances open and
press slit edges to inside. On slit edges,
turn edges of seam allowances under and
stitch in place as marked.
Fold pleats in upper back edge in
direction of arrows and baste.
Yoke: Pin one yoke to outer side of
upper back edge and pin second yoke to
wrong side of upper back edge. Stitch
yokes in place and press up. Stitch outer
yoke to upper edges of front. Press seam
allowances toward yoke. Turn edges of
inside yoke under and baste to attachment
seams. Baste open yoke edges together.
Topstitch yoke close to seams.
Collar with collar stand: With right sides
together, stitch collar pieces together along
outer edges, beginning at seam number 3.
Trim seam allowances. Turn collar right-side
out and press. Stitch one buttonhole for
smaller button at each collar corner. Lay
collar stand pieces right sides together with
collar in between. Stitch along front and
upper collar stand edges, beginning and
ending in front, exactly at attachment edge
seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn collar
stand right-side out. Stitch outer collar
stand piece to blouse neck edge. Press seam
allowances toward collar stand. Turn inside
collar stand edge under and baste to
attachment seam. Topstitch collar stand
close to all edges.
Patch pocket: Press hem allowance on
upper pocket edge to inside and stitch 1"
(2.5cm) from folded edge. Press seam
allowances on side and lower pocket edges
to inside. Edgestitch pocket in place on left
blouse front.

Stitch side seams. Trim seam allowances


to " (6mm), neaten edges together, and
press toward back.
Slash sleeve vents as marked. Spread cut
edges apart to a straight line and stitch to
one long edge of binding strip, as narrowly
as possible. Press binding strip over
attachment seam into vent, then fold to a
width of " (6mm), turn in, and sew to
attachment seam. On inside upper end of
vent, stitch diagonally across binding. On
front vent edges, turn binding to inside and
baste to lower edge.
Stitch sleeve seams.
Stitch sleeve bands to lower sleeve edges.
Press attachment seam allowances and other
long edges toward sleeve bands. Fold sleeve
bands half to outside and stitch across ends.
Turn right-side out and baste inside edges to
attachment seams. Topstitch sleeve bands
close to attachment seams. In front end of
each sleeve band, stitch a buttonhole for
larger button, 38" (1cm) from end of sleeve
band and " (2cm) above lower edge.
Set in sleeves.
Press hem allowance to inside, turn in
edges, and stitch in place.

106-

022015-US
A-Line Skirt
with Pleated
Yoke 

22 front skirt, cut 1 on fold


23 back yoke, cut 2
24 back skirt, cut 1 on fold
a) 2 pleat pieces (yoke), each 15" (40cm)
wide, and 23" (60cm) long
Lining:
21 front yoke, cut 2
23 back yoke, cut 2
Fusible stay tape:
Fuse the stay tape to the wrong side of the
yoke lining upper edges 38" (1cm) from edge.

Green pattern line, sheets D1-D2


Pattern pieces 21 to 24
Size 34 AAAAA
Size 36 ===
Size 38 CCC
Size 40 67 67
Size 42 EEEEE

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42


on page 27
Finished skirt length: 25" (64cm)

Cutting layouts

Materials

Sizes 34-42

Metallic jacquard, 60" (152.5cm) wide:


2yds (2m) for all sizes
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: yd (.4m)
Notion: Fusible bias stay tape, 1 invisible
zipper, 9" (22cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation

Metallic jacquard, 60" (152.5cm) wide


Fold

Selvedges

Lining, 54" (137cm) wide


Fold
Cut from a
double layer of
fabric, right
sides together.

Trace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. Cut


out all paper pieces.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces as shown and pin in
place. Cut the following numbered pieces:
Metallic jacquard:
21 front yoke, cut 2

Selvedges

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project instructions

Construction
Pleats: On pleat pieces (a), chalk-mark
placement lines and fold lines for pleats
along one 23" (60cm) long edge. Handbaste pleat lines to make these lines visible
on right side. Mark lowest placement line
5
8" (1.5cm) from edge; mark fold line
2" (6cm) from placement line; mark
next placement line 1" (3cm) from
preceding line; mark fold line 2" (6cm)
from placement line, etc. along height
of piece. Fold fabric on bottom fold line,
wrong sides together. Baste fold, then
baste fold edge to bottom placement
line. Fold fabric on second fold line, baste
fold, and baste to second placement line,
etc. Press pleat pieces. Repeat for both
pleat pieces.
Pin pattern piece for front yoke to pleated
fabric right sideonce with printed side facing
up, once with printed side facing down,
aligning pleat locations and with attachment
edge of yoke on bottom pleat fold. Cut out.
Lay pleated pieces on corresponding
yoke pieces, with wrong side facing right
side, and baste together along all edges.
With right sides together, lay yoke pieces
together and pin center front seam. Stitch,
ending exactly at marked yoke attachment
line. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch darts in back yokes and press
toward center.
On back yoke, sew invisible zipper in
place at opening edges (see instructions on
page 66) and stitch center seam.
Fold pleats in skirts in direction of arrows
and press. Baste pleats to upper edge.
Stitch yoke front to skirt front and stitch
yoke back to skirt back, clipping seam
allowance of skirt back into corner. Leave
lower front yoke pleat fold free. Press seam
allowances up.
Stitch side seams (seam number 3).
Yoke lining: Stitch center front lining
seam; center back seam below opening
mark, darts, and side seams. With right sides
together, pin yoke lining to upper skirt edge.
At opening edges, fold seam allowances to
outside 316" (5mm) before marked seamline,
and pin. Fold seam allowances at skirt
opening edges to outside, together with
zipper, and pin to upper edge of skirt, over
lining. Stitch skirt upper edge. Trim seam,
turn lining up and understitch, close to
attachment seam. Fold yoke lining and seam
allowances to inside. Turn yoke lining edges
under and hand-stitch to zipper tape and
skirt attachment seam.
Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place.

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106.1-

022015-US
X-Wrap Dress

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1oi4Vbk

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 58
Finished length from waist: 21" (53cm)

Materials
Washed silk, 54" (137cm) wide: 258yds
(2.35m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 1 invisible
zipper, 16" (40cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation

Clip seam allowances between stitching


lines, close to points. Trim seams to "
(6mm). Neaten seam allowances at side
edges (below seam number 2). Turn shawl
pieces right-side out. Pin open edges
together 2" (5cm) beginning at seam
end. Press shawl edges. Press seam
allowances of front toward side edges
below seam number2 (4).
Baste shawl pieces to neck edge, center
seam: With right sides together, baste left
shawl piece to right neck edge, from seam
mark (at seam number 1) 2" (5cm). Baste
right shawl piece to left neck edge 2"
(5cm) from seam mark (5). Fold shawl ends
(center back) right sides together and stitch
(6). Press seam allowances open. Fold shawl
pieces on fold line and baste open edges
together (7).
Stitch shoulder seams. With right sides
together, baste shawl piece to neck edge (8).
Stitch facing shoulder seams and neaten
facing lower edge. Stitch facing to neck
edge, over shawl (9). Turn facing up and
understitch as far as possible. Turn facing to

Trace pieces 21-25 from pattern sheet. Trace


pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate
pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Washed silk:
21front with shawl collar, cut 1 on fold
21pocket, cut 4
22back, cut 1 on fold
23sleeve, cut 4
24front neck facing, cut 1 on fold
25back neck facing, cut 1 on fold
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse " (2cm) squares to wrong side at
front inner shawl points. Fuse bias stay tape
to armhole and zipper opening edges.

Construction
Stitch back darts and press toward center.
Front, shawl collar pieces: On front
piece, fold seam allowance at point of
neck edge (center front) down and press.
Clip seam allowances of bottom points
between marked stitching lines to 2"
(5cm) before ends (1). With right sides
together, fold cut-on shawl on fold line.
Pin shawl pieces together from marking
(seam number 1) to bottom point. Pin
front edges together from bottom point
to pressed-under seam allowance at
marked neck edge (2). Turn front back at
seam and pin in place (3). Fold second
shawl piece the same and stitch seams.

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project instructions

107-

022015-US
Slim Ladies
Jacket 
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 26
Finished back length: 26" (67cm)
7
8-sleeves: 22" (57cm) long

inside. Press edge. Hand-stitch inside facing


edge to seam allowances.
Stitch right side seam, leaving pocket
opening free.
Right in-seam pocket: Pin pocket right
sides together with seam allowances of
pocket opening edges and stitch directly
along marked seamlines. Press pocket
pieces toward front and stitch together.
Left in-seam pocket: Pin one pocket
piece right sides together with left pocket
front opening edge. Stitch pocket piece
between markings, stitching up at an
angle at upper marking and stitching
down at an angle at lower marking,
toward seam allowance edge. Clip seam
allowances into corners. Turn pocket piece
to inside. Press pocket opening edges. Lay
other pocket piece right sides together
with stitched pocket piece. Seam
allowance of pocket piece extends at
pocket opening edge
Sew invisible zipper to left side seam
between markings (see instructions on page
66). Stitch remainder of seam above and
below zipper.
Stitch left pocket piece edges together.
Stitch sleeve seams. Press seams open. With
right sides together, pin two sleeves together
and stitch lower edges. Trim seam allowances,
press open. Turn sleeves right-side out and
press edges. Baste open edges together.
Set in sleeves. Trim seam allowances to
3
8" (1cm) and press toward sleeves in
sleeve cap only.
Press hem allowance to inside, neaten
edges, and hand-stitch in place.

Materials
Stretch jacquard, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes
36, 38, 40: 2yds (2.05m); sizes 42, 44:
238yds (2.1m)
Stretch lining, 54" (137cm) wide: 158yds
(1.4m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: Lightweight shoulder pads; 3 large
sew-on snap fasteners
Note: To make both jacket style 107022015-US and skirt style 109-022015-US,
you will need: sizes 36, 38: 338yds (3m);
sizes 40, 42, 44: 3yds (3.1m) of 54"
(137cm) wide stretch jacquard, and 258yds
(2.25m) of 54" (137cm) wide lining.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation

Red pattern line, sheets D1-D2,


Pattern pieces 1 to 10
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777

Cutting layouts
Jacquard, 54" (137cm) wide
Fold

Trace pieces 1-10 from pattern sheet. Trace


facing from piece 1 as a separate pattern
piece. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Jacquard:
1center front, cut 2
1 front facing, cut 2
2side front, cut 2
3center back, cut 2
4side back, cut 2
5upper sleeve, cut 2
6under sleeve, cut 2
7collar, cut 2 on fold
8collar stand, cut 2 on fold
9pocket, cut 2
10back facing, cut 1 on fold
Lining:
1 center front, cut 2, minus front facing
width
2 side front, cut 2
3 center back, minus neck facing width and
with " (2cm) center back ease pleat
4 side back, cut 2

Selvedges

Lining, 54" (137cm) wide


Fold

Cut from a
double layer
of fabric,
right sides
together.

Selvedges

5 upper sleeve, cut 2


6 under sleeve, cut 2
9 pocket, cut 2, minus width of facing
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Also
interface back and sleeve hem allowances.

Construction
Stitch center back seam, leaving vent area
open. Press seam allowances of center seam
open and press left vent facing to inside. Turn

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project instructions

right vent underlap toward left back and press


seam allowance of right back under above
vent, tapering as you go to avoid needing
to clip it. On right back, press seam
allowance on long underlap edge to inside.
At top of vent, topstitch left center back at an
angle as marked, catching underlap.
Stitch front and back section seams.
Stitch shoulder seams and side seams. Stitch
facing shoulder seams. Press seam
allowances open.
Patch pockets: Stitch each pocket lining
piece to self-facing of pocket, leaving 2"
(5cm) open for turning. Turn facings and
lining to outside and stitch to pocket edges.
Trim seam allowances. Turn pockets rightside out and press. Sew seam openings
closed. Pin pockets to fronts at placement
lines. Sew side and lower pocket edges in
place invisibly by hand.
Notched collar and front edges: With
right sides together, pin facing to jacket. Pin
lapel fold lines together. Build a little extra
fullness into lapel corners. Stitch facing to
lapel edges, from seam mark, and to front
edges and hem edge. On hem edge, leave
last 1" (3cm) before facing ends open.
Leave facing lying on jacket, right sides
together, for time being. Stitch collar stand
pieces to collar pieces. Trim seam
allowances and press open. Topstitch close
to each side of seams. Stitch collar pieces
together on outer edges, building a little
extra fullness into top collar and beginning
and ending on narrow edges, exactly at
seamline of attachment edge. Turn collar
right-side out. Lay collar between jacket
and facing. Stitch undercollar to jacket neck
edge from each seam mark to corner. Clip
seam allowances of fronts into corners.
Stitch long edge of undercollar to neck
edge of jacket. Stitch top collar to facing,
clipping facing seam allowances into
corners. Press collar attachment seam
allowances open. Turn facing to inside. Pin
collar attachment seams together exactly.
Turn back facing up and stitch seam
allowances together, close to collar
attachment seam. Lay facing down.
At hem edge, open back vent facing
again. Press hem allowance to inside, then
turn down again.
Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem
allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.
Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps. Try on
jacket and sew shoulder pads in place.
Sew lining: On lining backs, stitch center
seam allowances together above vent,
stitching 38" (1cm) from edge. For ease
pleat, stitch along center back at top and
bottom (above vent), each 2" (5cm), and
baste in between. Press pleat toward right

74

burda style.com

back. Stitch remaining lining seams. Set in


sleeve linings.
Line jacket, hem: Stitch lining to inside
facing edges, turning hem allowances of
facings down to do so. Lay lining inside
jacket, with wrong sides facing, pulling linings
into sleeves. At back vent, turn lining edge
under at underlap edge of right back and pin.
Trim other lining edge to 38" (1cm) before
hemmed underlap edge. Clip 38" (1cm)
diagonally into top corner. Turn lining edge
under and pin to left back vent facing. At top
of vent, turn lining edge under and pin to
underlap. Turn lining under and hand-stitch to
back vent allowances. Turn hem allowance to
inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn in lining
along hem edge, press folded edge lightly,
and push up in a shallow curve. Pin to jacket
hem allowance. Hand-stitch facings and lining
in place. Lay extra length of lining down and
press lightly. Turn edge of each sleeve lining
under and hand-stitch to hem allowance. Lay
extra length down and press.
Cover snap fastener halves with fabric
(see instructions on page 69). Sew upper
snap halves to right front facing as marked,
taking even stitches and exiting needle on
right side of fabric. Sew lower snap halves
to left front as marked.

107A-

022015-US
Evening
Jumpsuit 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1ttR8xT

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 55
Finished side length from waist: 41"
(105cm)
Leg hem circumference: 13" (33cm)

Materials
Crpe, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 36, 38:
338yds (3m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 358yds
(3.25m) white; yd (.4m) gray for
neckline insert
Lining scrap, to cover snaps
Interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper, sizes 36, 38, 40: 7"
(18cm); sizes 42, 44: 8" (20cm) long; 4
large sew-on snap fasteners; 6 small sew-on
snap fasteners
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-13 from pattern sheet.
Lengthen pieces 8 and 11 as indicated. Cut
out all paper pieces. Stitching line at zipper
opening is marked for size 36. Remark
stitching line for sizes 38 44 same
distance from center front as for size 36,
noting opening length.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Crpe:
1front with cut-on back yoke, cut 2
2back, cut 2
3front sleeve, cut 2
4back sleeve, cut 2
5collar, cut 2 on fold
6front facing, cut 2
7back facing, cut 1 on fold
8front trouser, cut 2
9large pocket, cut 2
10small pocket, cut 2
11back trouser, cut 2
12waistband, cut 2
13front insert, cut 1 on fold
a) left underlap: sizes 36, 38, 40: 7"
(19cm); sizes 42, 44: 838" (21cm) long;
and 3" (7cm) wide, excluding seam
allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Also interface sleeve hem allowances.

Construction
Stitch center back seam and back darts.
Stitch lower front darts. Press seam
allowances open, press darts toward center.
Stitch front cut-on back yokes to back. Press
seam allowances toward yokes.
Stitch facing shoulder seams. Press seam
allowances open.
Notched collar: Pin facing right sides
together with bodice. Build a little extra
fullness into lapel corners. Stitch from
marking along lapel edges and along front
edges, first leaving seam open at bottom 6"
(15cm) long. Leave facing lying right sides
together with bodice. Clip front lapel darts
open along middle 2" (5cm) long. Stitch
collar pieces together along outer edges,
building a little extra fullness into top collar.
Turn collar right-side out. Lay collar
between upper garment and facing. Stitch
undercollar to front neck edge from
marking to each corner. Press seam
allowances open. Stitch undercollar to neck
edge from center back to each side, and
continue to stitch darts. Press seam
allowances of collar joining seam open,

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project instructions

press darts flat. Stitch top collar to facing,


clipping seam allowances into corners. Press
seam allowances open. Turn facing to
inside. Pin collar joining seams together
exactly. Lay back facing up and understitch
close to attachment seam. Lay facing down.
Stitch bodice side seams. Stitch
underneath sleeve seams (seam number 6).
Miter sleeve corners: Lay vent facing on
front sleeves and hem allowance outward
to stitch corner at an angle (mitered
corner). Trim seam allowances of mitering
seam to 316" (5mm) and press open. Lay
facing at vent underlap of back sleeve
outward on fold line and stitch along hem
line. Turn hem allowances and vent facings
to inside. Hand-stitch sleeve hem
allowances in place. Topstitch vent underlap
edges.
Stitch back sleeve seams above vent
mark. Press seam allowances toward front
sleeves. Topstitch sleeve vents at an angle as
marked, catching underlap.
Set in sleeves.
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above marking by pressing with a
steam iron or under a damp cloth until they
are as long as on front trouser pieces.
Stitch back darts and press toward
center.
Fold front trouser pieces lengthwise with
wrong sides together and press creases.
Work from inside to stitch front pleat on
front trouser pieces from upper edge 1"
(2.5cm) long. Press pleat in arrow direction;
baste at upper edge.
Trouser pockets: Pin pockets right sides
together with pocket opening edges (seam
numbers 8 and 9), stitch from upper edges
to marking. Clip seam allowances of trouser
pieces at an angle toward bottom seam
end. Fold pockets up at bottom seam ends
and pin. Stitch darts below pocket
openings. Remove pins. Press seam
allowances of pocket joining seams open,
press darts forward. Fold trouser pieces
right sides together and pin pocket piece
joining seams together. Stitch marked pleat
fold next to this along placement line as far
as marking. Stitch smaller pocket piece to
larger pocket. Unfold front trouser pieces.
Lay pocket pieces toward front trouser
edges, baste at upper and front trousers
edge, after cutting off right pocket piece
allowance along center front.
Stitch trouser side seams and inside leg
seams. Stitch center front seam from
opening mark to inside leg seam.
Zipper: Press self-facings to inside at
opening edges. Stitch right along center
front, and left " (6mm) before center

front. Topstitch close to right opening edge.


Stitch zipper under left opening edge
(underlap), stitching close to teeth. Pin
opening closed matching centers. Stitch
loose zipper tape to right facing, leaving
trouser free. Baste facing. Topstitch opening
from upper edge to 1" (3cm) before end
as marked. With right sides together, fold
underlap piece lengthwise and stitch across
lower end. Turn right-side out. Lay underlap
under left opening edge, pin at opening
facing. Stitch facing to underlap close to
zipper joining seam. Lay opening closed
again and topstitch to end, catching
underlap.
Stitch center back seam. Press seam
allowances open from upper edges to
beginning of curve. Do not press seam
allowances flat along curve.
Stitch center back waistband seam. Press
seam allowances open. With wrong sides
together, fold waistband on fold line and
press. Baste waistband edges together and
baste to lower edge of bodice. Baste front
waistband ends, not catching facings. Pin
bodice with waistband right sides together
to upper trousers edge and opening facing,
leave remaining bodice edge extending at
zipper opening. Stitch. Lay front facings
right sides together with fronts again, pin
remaining front edges together. Pin lower
facing edges as far as zipper opening and
underlap edge to lower waistband edge.
Stitch. Trim seam allowances, trimming
corners diagonally. Clip seam allowances at
opening edge and underlap. Turn facings to
inside again. Lay bodice and waistband up.
Press seam allowances down.
Front insert: Press 158" (4cm) hem
allowance at upper insert edge to inside
and hand-stitch in place. Press left side and
lower edge seam allowances to inside, turn
in to a width of 38" (1cm) and stitch. Stitch
insert right side to inside edge of right front
facing between markings. Fasten left insert
side edge to left front facing with small
snap. Turn in remaining lower facing edges
and hand-stitch to seams.
Cover large snap fasteners with lining
(see instructions on page 69). Sew halves of
snap fasteners each to waistband, spaced
3
8" (1cm) from ends; sew matching halves
on opposite half to match. Sew a top half
of a snap fastener each to front sleeve vent
edges, sew bottom halves of snaps on
underlap to match. When sewing on snaps,
do not exit needle on right fabric side.
Press hem allowances of trousers to
inside and hand-stitch in place.
Press creases in back trouser pieces.
Press creases in front hem.

108-

022015-US
Cap Sleeve
Dress with
Faux Top 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1ohTYGN

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 33
Finished length from waist: 23" (60cm)

Materials
Cotton stretch satin, 60" (152.5cm) wide
with pattern repeat of 16" (40cm): 338yds
(3m) for all sizes or fabric with no pattern
repeat, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 1yds (1.6m)
Interfacing
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 1 invisible
zipper 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-10 from pattern sheet. Trace
facing from pieces 1 and 2 as separate
pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances


Seam and edges, 58" (1.5cm); hem, 158"
(4cm); sleeve hems, " (2cm)

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Match fabric patterning
if needed. Cut the following numbered
pieces:
Cotton satin:
1 center front with integrated peplum,
cut 2
1 center front peplum facing, cut 2
2 side front with integrated peplum,
cut 2
2 side front peplum facing, cut 2
3 center front skirt, cut 1 on fold
4 side front skirt, cut 2
5 center back, cut 2
6 side back, cut 2
7 sleeve front, cut 2
8 sleeve back, cut 2
9 front neck facing, cut 2
10 back neck facing, cut 2
a) 2 bias facing strips for armhole edges,
each 8" (20cm) long, and 158" (4cm) wide
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse interfacing to wrong side of neck
facing pieces.

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project instructions

Fuse bias stay tape to wrong side of


armhole and sleeve attachment edges.

Construction
Stitch side fronts to center fronts. Stitch
side front peplum facings to center front
peplum facings. Press seam allowances
open.
Neck and peplum edges, center front
seam: With right sides together, lay peplum
facings on front piece lower edges. Stitch
together lower and front edges as
continuous seams, up to seam marks. Lay
each front neck facing on neck edge, right
sides together. Beginning at seam mark, pin
together along front edge, then continue
pinning neck edges together, up to armhole
edges. Stitch. Trim seam allowances. Turn
neck facings to inside. With right sides
together, stitch center front seam between
seam marks.
Stitch center front seam on peplum
facing and neck facing. Unfold front the
facings lie right sides together with front
again. Press allowances open. On peplum,
trim seam allowances on facing attachment
edge. Turn peplum facing to inside. Press
edges.
On front skirts, stitch section seams.
Press seams open.
Horizontal seam: With right sides
together, lay skirt front on peplum facing.
Stitch marked seamlines on upper skirt
edge and facing together, leaving fronts
free. Neaten seam allowances together.
Loosely hand-stitch upper skirt edge to
seam allowances of center front seam and
section seams. Baste side edges of skirt and
peplum together.
Back section seams: With right sides
together, lay side back pieces on center back
pieces. Pin section seams (seam number 3).
Stitch. Press seam allowances open.
Invisible zipper and center back seam:
Insert invisible zipper in center back opening
edges (see instructions on page 66). Stitch
center back seam from the lower edge to
zipper. Press seam allowances open and
neaten edge of seam allowances.
Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances
open.
Sew top sleeve seams (seam number 7).
Press seam allowances open.
With wrong sides together, fold bias
strips for sleeve neck edges of sleeves in
half lengthwise and press. Pin folded bias
strips to sleeve neck edges so that folded
edge of each strip lies on garment piece,
3
8" (1cm) past seamline. Stitch along
seamlines. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias
strips to inside. Press. Hand-stitch folded
edge in place.

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Attach sleeves, armhole edges: At each


armhole edge, turn front neck facing up
again. Stitch sleeves to front and back
(seam numbers 8 and 9). With wrong sides
together, fold bias strips for armhole edges
in half lengthwise and press. Pin folded bias
strips to armhole edges so that folded edge
of each strip lies on garment piece 38"
(1cm) past seamline and strip ends lie on
facings. Stitch along marked armhole
edges. Trim seam allowances on sleeve and
bias attachment seam to 38" (1cm). Press
seam allowances away from sleeves. Turn
bias strips and facings to inside. Hand-stitch
folded edges of bias strips in place. Below
sleeves, topstitch " (6mm) from armhole
edges.
Finish neck edge: Stitch shoulder seams
on back and front neck facings. With right
sides together, pin back facings to back
neck edges. At zipper opening, turn facings
back, 316" (5mm) before opening edge,
and pin to neck edge. Turn seam
allowances on back opening edges to
outside and pin to neck edge, over facings.
Stitch along neck edge. Turn facings to
inside, understitch, and hand-stitch to
zipper tapes and sleeve seam allowances.
Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place.

108.1-

022015-US
Wings Dress

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1mdOOgk

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 58
Finished center front length from waist:
20" (52cm)

Materials
Piqu, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 36, 38,
40: 1yds (1.5m); sizes 42, 44: 178yds
(1.7m)
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: 118yds (1m) for
all sizes
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; invisible
zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 21-30 from pattern sheet.
Trace facing and pocket piece from piece 28

as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all


paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); hem, 1"
(3cm); lining, 58" (1.5cm)

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Piqu:
21center front, cut 1 on fold
22side front, cut 2
23front yoke, cut 2 on fold
24center back, cut 2
25side back, cut 2
26back yoke, cut 4
27front skirt, cut 1 on fold
28front overskirt, cut 2
28 facing, cut 2
28 pocket, cut 2
29center back skirt, cut 2
30side back skirt, cut 2
Lining:
21 center front, cut 1 on fold
22 side front, cut 2
24 center back, cut 2
25 side back, cut 2
27 front skirt, cut 1 on fold
29 center back skirt, cut 2
30 side back skirt, cut 2
Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to outer yoke
neck edges.

Construction
Stitch bust darts, press darts up. Stitch
front and back bodice section seams. Press
seam allowances in front toward side
pieces, press seam allowances in back
toward center pieces.
Stitch outer front yoke to front, stitch
outer back yokes to back pieces. Press seam
allowances toward yokes.
Stitch bodice side seams. Press seam
allowances toward back.
Stitch darts in front skirt, press darts
toward center. Press front skirt hem
allowance to inside and loosely hand-stitch
in place. Stitch section seams on back skirt.
Press seam allowances toward center.
Clip side seam allowance on overskirt
panels diagonally toward pocket opening
ends. Press seam allowance at pocket
opening edges to inside. Topstitch pocket
opening edges 38" (1cm) from fold. Baste
pocket pieces on underside of overskirt
panels, seam allowance extending at pocket
opening edge. Stitch pocket pieces from
right side as marked. Stitch across bottom
of each pocket opening to line of stitching.

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project instructions

With right sides together, pin facings to


overskirt panels. Stitch along hem edges
and front edges. Trim seam allowances.
Turn facings to inside, press edges. Topstitch
edges " (2cm) from fold.
Lay overskirt panels on front skirt with
wrong side facing right side, baste side
seam and upper edges.
Lay back skirt panels right sides together
with front skirt/overskirt panels, pin at side
seam edges. Lay hem allowance of back
skirt panels up and pin at side seam edges,
over front skirt. Stitch side seams. Turn back
hem allowances to inside. Press side seam
allowances toward back.
Stitch skirt to bodice. Press seam
allowances up.
Sew invisible zipper to back opening
edges (see instructions on page 66). Stitch
center back seam from lower edges to
zipper. Press seam allowances open.
Topstitch back hem edge.
Stitch lining darts and seams. Leave lower
side skirt lining seams open 4" (10cm),
noting back pieces are longer than front.
Stitch inside yokes to front and back lining
pieces. Press seam allowances toward yokes.
Neck and armhole edges, shoulder
seams: Press inside yoke shoulder seam
allowances to wrong side. Pin yokes and
lining right sides together with front and
back dress pieces. Turn yokes at zipper
opening back 316" (5mm) before marked
seamline, pin at neck edge. Lay dress
seam allowances at opening edges
outward, pin in place over yokes. Stitch
along neck and armhole edges. Trim seam
allowances. Turn opening edge, yoke and
lining seam allowances to inside. Stitch
shoulder seams of outer yoke pieces,
leaving inside pieces free. Press seam
allowances open and slip underneath
inside pieces. Hand-stitch shoulder edges
together on inside. Turn in inside yokes
and lining and sew to zipper tapes.
Turn in lining hem allowance and stitch
so that lining is " (2cm) shorter than
main fabric. Stitch remaining open side
seams. Press side seam allowances toward
back. On extending side edges of back skirt
panel, stitch pressed-under edges in place.
Sew back skirt lining hem corners to dress
hem with a French tack.

109-

022015-US
Pencil Skirt
with Zip Fly 
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 26
Finished skirt length: 23" (60cm)
Upper waistband edge sits at natural
waistline

Materials
Stretch jacquard, 54" (137cm) wide:
118yds (1m) for all sizes
Stretch lining, 54" (135cm) wide: 1yd
(.9m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper, 6" (15cm) long; 1 sewon skirt hook set
Note: See style 107-022015-US for the total
fabric required to make both skirt style 109022015-US and jacket style 107-022015-US.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-4 from pattern sheet. Trace
pocket from piece 1 as a separate pattern
piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching
line at zipper opening is marked for size 34.
For sizes 36 44, mark stitching line same
distance from center front as for size 34.
Front skirt lining: On paper pattern piece for
hip yoke (2), cut off pocket piece along
placement line. Tape lower edge of hip yoke
to front skirt panel. This will create a space
at the top which will be marked and folded
later as a pleat.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Jacquard:
1front skirt, cut 2
2side hip yoke with integrated pocket, cut 2
3back skirt, cut 2
4back yoke, cut 2
a) waistband, with 1" (3cm) underlap:
size 34: 29" (74cm); size 36: 30"
(78cm); size 38: 32" (82cm); size 40:
34" (86cm); size 42: 35" (90cm); size
44: 37" (94cm) long; and 2" (5cm) wide,
excluding seam allowances
b) left underlap piece, 638" (16cm) long,
and 2" (5cm) wide, excluding seam
allowances

Lining:
1 and 2, placed together and without slit
allowance
1 pocket, cut 2
3 back skirt, cut 2
4 back yoke, cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.
Construction
Hip yoke pockets: With right sides
together, stitch pockets to pocket opening
edges of front skirt pieces. Trim seam
allowances. Turn pockets to inside. Topstitch
close to pocket opening edges. Pin pocket
opening edges to side hip yokes at
placement lines. Stitch pocket pieces
together. Baste pockets to wrong sides of

Black pattern line, sheets C1-C2


Pattern pieces 1 to 4
Size 34 2222
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777

Cutting layouts

NZ_BS1402_109-2T

Jacquard, 54" (137cm) wide


Fold

Selvedges

Lining, 54" (137cm) wide


Fold

Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric, right
sides together.

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project instructions

skirt front, first trimming away allowance of


right pocket, along center front.
Stitch back yokes to back skirts.
Topstitch yokes close to seams. Stitch center
back seam. Press seam allowances open.
Zipper: Stitch center front seam below
opening mark. Press opening self-facing
edges to inside. Stitch along center front on
right and 316" (5mm) before center front on
left. Topstitch close to right opening edge.
Stitch zipper under left opening edge
(underlap) close to teeth. Pin opening closed,
matching centers. Stitch loose zipper tape to
right facing, leaving skirt free. Baste facing in
place. Topstitch opening from upper edge to
1" (3cm) before end, as marked. With
right sides together, fold underlap piece
lengthwise and stitch across bottom end.
Turn right-side out. Lay underlap under left
opening edge and pin to facing. Stitch facing
to underlap, close to zipper attachment
seam. Lay opening closed again and
topstitch to the end, catching underlap.
Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances
open.
Stitch lining seams, leaving opening for
zipper, " (2cm) longer than on skirt.
With wrong sides together, pull lining
inside skirt and pin to upper edge of back
skirt, matching side seams. Pin front lining
panels in place, folding pleats. On lining
opening edges, turn edges under and press
so that lining meets zipper tape on right
and underlap attachment seam on left. Trim
pressed-under lining right opening edge to
5
8" (1.5cm). Neaten both opening edges.
Baste lining to upper skirt edge.
Waistband: Stitch waistband to upper skirt
edge, stitching waistband underlap to
underlap of opening edge. Press attachment
seam allowances and of other long waistband
edge toward waistband. With right sides
together, fold waistband lengthwise and
stitch across front ends. Turn waistband rightside out and pin inside edge in place over
attachment seam. Topstitch waistband close
to all edges. Sew on skirt hook and bar
fastener in a comfortable place.
Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place. Hem lining " (2cm) shorter
than skirt.

109.1-

Notions: Pre-folded bias tape, " (2cm)


wide: 3yds (3.2m)

022015-US
Knit V-Neck
Pullover 

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for


general sewing guidelines and
introductory information

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Preparation

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 59
Finished back length: 23" (58cm)

Trace pieces 1 and 2 from pattern sheet.


Cut out all paper pieces.

Materials

Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown


and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Knit fabric:
1front, cut 1 on fold
2back, cut 1 on fold

Knit fabric, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 34, 36:


1yd (.9m); size 38 118yd (.95m); sizes 40,
42, 44: 158yds (1.4m)

Cutting

Construction

Black pattern line, sheets B1-B2


Pattern pieces 1 and 2
Size 34 2222
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777

NZ_BS1404_109-1T
Cutting layouts

Knit, 54" (137cm) wide


Sizes 34 38
Selvedge

109ACut right sides


together on a
double layer of
fabric, right side
up on a single
layer.

Selvedge

Sizes 40 44
Fold

Stitch right shoulder seam. Press seam


allowances open.
Neck edge: Unfold pre-folded bias tape
and press flat, then press bias in half
lengthwise. Working from right side, stitch
folded bias tape to neck edge so that folded
tape edge lies on garment piece 38" (1cm)
past seamline. Trim seam allowances. Lay
bias tape up and understitch close to seam.
Turn bias tape to inside. Hand-stitch inside
edge of bias tape in place.
Stitch left shoulder seam. Hand-stitch
seam allowance ends to neck edge.
Stitch bias tape to armhole edges as
described for neck edge, but do not turn to
inside. Stitch side seams through extended
bias tape. Press seam allowances open. Turn
bias tape to inside at armhole edges and
hand-stitch in place. Hand-stitch lower
seam allowance ends to hem edge.
Finish lower edge as described for neck
edge, overlapping bias tape ends at joining.

022015-US
Lace Dress
with Faux Top

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 49
Finished length from waist: 24" (62cm)

Materials

Selvedges

78

burda style.com

Cotton lace fabric with one scalloped edge,


36" (91.5cm) wide: 258yds (2.4m) for all sizes
Silk dupioni, 60" (152.5cm) wide (backing):
158yds (1.35m) for all sizes

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project instructions

Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

including seam allowances


c) 2 bias strips for armhole edges: 8"
(20cm) long, and 158" (4cm) wide,
including seam allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Preparation

Construction

Trace pieces 1-8, 11, and 12 from pattern


sheet. Trace peplum facings from pieces 1
and 2 as separate pattern pieces. Cut out all
paper pieces.

With wrong side facing right sides, baste


lace pieces to corresponding silk pieces. On
skirt panels and on back pieces, lower
edges of lace meet marked silk hem line
and hem allowances extend.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); silk hem
allowance, 158" (4cm); no hem allowances
on lace pieces

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Lace:
1center front with peplum, cut 2
2side front with peplum, cut 2
3center front skirt, cut 1 on fold
4side front skirt, cut 2
5center back, cut 2
6side back, cut 2
7sleeve front, cut 2
8sleeve back, cut 2
Place lower sleeve edges on lace scalloped
edge.
a) scalloped hem edge strip, 43" (110cm)
long, and 158" (4cm) wide cut from
scalloped lace edge
Silk dupioni:
1center front with peplum, cut 2
1 center front peplum facing, cut 2
2side front with peplum, cut 2
2 side front peplum facing, cut 2
3center front skirt, cut 1 on fold
4side front skirt, cut 2
5center back, cut 2
6side back, cut 2
11front neck facing, cut 2
12back neck facing, cut 2
b) 2 bias strips for sleeve neck edges: 8"
(20cm) long, and 158" (4cm) wide,

Cutting layouts

Blue pattern line, sheets A1-A2


Pattern pieces 1 to 8, 11, and 12
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777

Silk dupioni,
60"
NZ_BS1403_109T
(152.5 cm) wide
Fold

Selvedge

Lace, 36" (90 cm) wide


Selvedges

Fold

Selvedge
Scallops

Scallops

Fold the fabric as shown in the


cutting layoutright sides
together on a double layer;
right side up on a single layer.

Stitch side fronts to center fronts. Stitch


side front peplum facings to center front
peplum facings. Press seam allowances open.
Neck and peplum edges, center front
seam: With right sides together, lay peplum
facings on front piece lower edges. Stitch
together lower and front edges as
continuous seams, up to seam marks. With
right sides together, lay each front neck
facing on neck edge. Beginning at seam
mark, pin together along front edge, then
continue pinning neck edges together, up
to armhole edges. Stitch. Trim seam
allowances. Turn neck facings to inside.
With right sides together, lay center front
pieces together. Stitch center front seam
between seam marks.
Stitch center front seam on peplum facing
and neck facing. Unfold front the facings lie
right sides together with front again. Press
allowances open. On peplum, trim seam
allowances on facing attachment edge. Turn
peplum facing to inside. Press edges.
On front skirts, stitch section seams.
Press seams open.
Horizontal seam: With right sides
together, lay skirt front on peplum facing.
Pin and stitch marked seamlines on upper
skirt edge and facing together, leaving
fronts free. Neaten seam allowances
together. Loosely hand-stitch upper skirt
edge to seam allowances of center front
seam and section seams. Baste side edges
of skirt and peplum together.
Back section seams: With right sides
together, lay side back pieces on center
back pieces. Stitch section seams (seam
number 3). Press seam allowances open.
Invisible zipper and center back seam:
Insert invisible zipper in center back opening
edges (see instructions on page 66). Stitch
center back seam from lower edge to
zipper. Press seam allowances open and
neaten edge of seam allowances.
With right sides together, pin back
facings to back neck edges. At zipper
opening, turn facings back, 316" (5mm)
before opening edge, and pin to neck edge.
Turn seam allowances on back opening
edges to outside and pin to neck edge, over
facings. Stitch along neck edge. Turn
facings to inside and sew to zipper tapes.
Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances
open.
Sew top sleeve seams as French seams:
Lay fabric pieces wrong sides together,
stitch seam allowances " (6mm) from
edge. Press seam allowances open. Lay
pieces right sides together with seam
exactly along fold. Stitch along marked
seamline, 38" (1cm) from folded edge.
Press seam allowances to one side.

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project instructions

With wrong sides together, fold bias


strips for sleeve neck edges of sleeves in
half lengthwise and press. Pin folded bias
strips to sleeve neck edges so folded edge
of each strip lies on garment piece, 38"
(1cm) past seamline. Stitch along
seamlines. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias
strips to inside. Press. Hand-stitch folded
edge in place.
Attach sleeves, armhole edges: At each
armhole edge, turn neck facing up again.
Stitch sleeves to front and back (seam
numbers 8 and 9). With right sides
together, lay neck facings on front and
back. Baste to armhole edges, over sleeves.
With wrong sides together, fold bias strips
for armhole edges in half lengthwise and
press. Pin folded bias strips to armhole
edges so folded edge of each strip lies on
garment piece 38" (1cm) past seamline and
strip ends lie on facings. Stitch along
marked armhole edges. Trim seam
allowances. Turn bias strips and facings to
inside. Hand-stitch folded edges of bias
strips in place. Sew inside edge of neck
facing to center seam. Below sleeves,
topstitch " (6mm) from armhole edges,
stitching horizontally to lower sleeve edges.
Pin separate strip of scalloped lace to
lower dress edge so scallops extend past
marked hem line by 38" (1cm). Begin at
center front with either a whole scallop or a
half scallop. Baste scalloped edge in place
with long diagonal stitches. Stitch along
inside edge of scallops with small zigzag
stitches. Carefully trim inside edge of lace
strip close to zigzag stitching. Trim lace
fabric underneath the scalloped edge close
to zigzag stitching.
Press silk hem allowance to inside and
hand-stitch in place.

110-

022015-US
Dress with Top
and Train 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/11QM7JX

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 48
Finished length from waist: 44" (112cm) at
center front, 54" (138cm) at center back

Materials
Embroidered organza with two scalloped
edges, 45" (114.5cm) wide: 7yds (6.4m)
for all sizes
Duchesse satin, 60" (152.5cm) wide, for
lining: 438yds (4m) for all sizes
80

burda style.com

Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1, 2, 5-8, and 11-15 from
pattern sheet. Lengthen pieces 13 and 15
as indicated. Join the end points on piece
15. For hem curve, measure given length
down from center of straight line and mark
shallow curve for hem edge. Trace peplum
facings from pieces 1 and 2 as separate
pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); organza
hems, 58" (1.5cm); satin hems, 1"
(3cm); French seams on skirt and sleeves
(organza and satin), 38" (1cm) wide seam
allowances

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Embroidered organza:
1center front with peplum, cut 1 on fold
2side front with peplum, cut 2
5center back, cut 1 on fold
6side back, cut 2
7sleeve front, cut 2
8sleeve back, cut 2
13front skirt panel, cut 1 on fold
14center back skirt, cut 2
15side back skirt, cut 2
a) scalloped hem edge strip: size 36: 170"
(430cm); size 38: 172" (435cm); size 40:
174" (440cm); size 42: 176" (445cm); size
178" (450cm) long; and 158" (4cm) wide
from scalloped edge
Place neck edges of center front and center
back piece on fabric scalloped edge so
scallops extend and center front/center back
each lie exactly between two scallops. Place
upper edges of sleeve front and sleeve back
on scalloped edge in same manner. Make
sure scallops match at seams.
Satin:
1center front with peplum, cut 2
1 center front peplum facing, cut 2
2side front with peplum, cut 2
2 side front peplum facing, cut 2
5center back, cut 1 on fold
6side back, cut 2
11front neck facing, cut 2
12back neck facing, cut 1 on fold
13front skirt, cut 1 on fold
14center back skirt, cut 2

15side back skirt, cut 2


b) 2 bias strips for front armhole edges: size
36: 6" (17cm); size 38: 718" (18cm); size
40: 7" (19cm); size 42: 8" (20cm); size
44: 838" (21cm) long; for back armhole
edges: size 36: 918" (23cm); size 38: 9"
(24cm); size 40: 10" (25cm); size 42:
10" (26cm); size 44: 10" (27cm) long;
each 158" (4cm) wide, including seam
allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction
With right sides together, lay front neck
facings on satin fronts. Stitch along neck
edge, above each seam mark, as far as
armhole. At seam marks, turn lower facing
ends up and pin. Stitch center front seam
between markings. Remove pins. Stitch
facing center seam. Turn facing to inside and
press edges. Press seam allowances open.
With right sides together, lay back neck
facing on center back of satin. Pin. Stitch
along neck edge. Turn facing to inside and
press edge.
Lay embroidered organza center front on
satin center front, with wrong side facing
right side scalloped edge extends past
faced neck edge. Baste side and lower
edges together, leaving seam allowance of
center front and facings free. Baste
embroidered organza center back to satin
center back as for center front. Baste side
front and back pieces of organza to
corresponding pieces of satin, with wrong
side facing right side. Treat these pieces
each as one layer for construction.
Stitch side fronts to center front. Stitch
side backs to center back. On peplum
facing, stitch center front seam above seam
mark. Stitch side front peplum facing pieces
to center front peplum facing piece. Press
seams open.
With right sides together, lay peplum
facing on lower front edge (integrated
peplum). On one half of peplum, stitch
exactly from marked upper seamline along
side, lower, and front edges. Above curve,
stitch to 116" from marked seamline, leaving
free seam allowance of center seam. Stitch
other half of peplum in same manner. Trim
seam allowances. At center front, carefully
cut organza fabric between lines of
stitching. Leave peplum facing lying on
front, right sides together. Fold seam
allowance on upper facing edge down and
pin in place. On left side edge, clip
allowance of front close to last stitch.
Stitch sleeve seams as French seams: Lay
fabric pieces wrong sides together. Stitch
seam allowances 18" (4mm) from edge.

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project instructions

Press seam allowances open. Lay pieces


right sides together, with seam exactly
along fold. Stitch along marked seamline,
" (6mm) from folded edge. Press seam
allowances toward back.
Finish lower sleeve edges with closely
spaced zigzag stitching: Press hem allowance
to wrong side. Work from right side to stitch
along folded edge with a narrow, closely
spaced zigzag. On inside, carefully trim hem
allowances close to stitching.
Attach sleeves, armhole edges: At each
armhole edge, turn neck facing up again.
Baste sleeves to front and back (seam
numbers 8 and 9). With right sides
together, lay neck facings on front and
back. Baste to armhole edges, over sleeves.
With wrong sides together, fold bias strips
for armhole edges in half lengthwise and
press. Pin folded bias strips to armhole
edges so folded edge of each strip lies on
garment piece 38" (1cm) past seamline and
strip ends lie on facings. Stitch along
marked armhole edges. Trim seam
allowances. Turn bias strips and facings to
inside. Hand-stitch folded edges of bias
strips in place. Sew inside edge of neck
facing to center seam.
On bodice, stitch right side seam seam
ends at folded-over upper edge of peplum
facing. Turn peplum right-side out and press
edge. Press side seam allowances open.
Hand-stitch upper ends of seam allowances
to armhole edge.
On embroidered organza skirt, stitch
center back seam, back section seams,
and right side seam as French seams (see
above).
With wrong side facing right side, lay
organza skirt on satin skirt. Baste upper
edges and side edges together, as far as
opening mark. Gather front skirt upper
edge between asterisks.
With right sides together, lay skirt front
on peplum facing. Pin together marked
seamlines on upper skirt edge and facing.
Stitch from left opening edge to right side
seam. With right sides together, stitch skirt
back to back. Press seam allowances up and
hand-stitch to seams.
Sew invisible zipper to left opening
edges (see instructions on page 66). Begin
at armhole edge and leave ends of zipper
tapes extending at top. Turn top ends of
zipper tapes under and sew to armhole
edge, together with seam allowances.
Clip seam allowances of dress at end of
opening. Below zipper, stitch left side seams
on organza and satin each separately using
French seams (see above).
Appliqu scalloped edge: Mark center
of scalloped fabric edge strip (a) at one

scallop center. Pin scalloped strip to organza


skirt lower edge so scallops meet marked
hem line and marked scallop center lies at
center front. Sew ends of scalloped strip
together at center back and trim away
excess length. Baste scalloped strip in place,
with long diagonal stitches. Stitch "
(2cm) above scalloped edge with small
zigzag stitches. Carefully trim extending
upper edge of scalloped strip close to
stitching and trim away organza under
scalloped edge, close to zigzag stitching.
On satin skirt, press hem allowance to
inside and hand-stitch in place.

Construction
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above marking by pressing with a
steam iron or under a damp cloth until they
are as long as on front trouser pieces.
Stitch back darts and press toward center.
With wrong sides together, fold front
trouser pieces lengthwise and press
creases. Lay pleats in arrow direction and
baste. Stitch center front seam from
upper edges 4" (10cm) long, beginning
at upper edge exactly on seamline. Press
seam allowances open.

110A-

022015-US
Skinny Pants
with Hip Yoke

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 59
Finished side length: 42" (107cm)
Leg hem circumference: 16" (40cm)

Materials
Silk crpe, 54" (137cm) wide: 2yds
(2.05m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22cm) long

Green pattern line, sheets A1-A2


Pattern pieces 1 to 5
Size 34 2222
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for


general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Trace
pocket piece from piece 2 to placement line
as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all
paper pieces.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Silk crpe:
1front trouser, cut 2
2side hip yoke with cut-on pocket,
cut 2
2 pocket, cut 2
3back trouser, cut 2
4front waistband, cut 2 on fold
5back waistband, cut 4
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Interface outer waistband pieces.

NZ_BS1404_110T
Cutting layout

Silk crpe, 54" (137cm) wide


Sizes 34 44
Fold

Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric, right
sides together. Cut the pieces shown
extending over the fabric fold last from a
single layer of remaining fabric.

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project instructions

Hip yoke pockets: With right sides


together, stitch pockets to front pocket
opening edges. Lay pocket up and stitch to
seam allowances close to seam. Turn pocket
pieces to inside. Pin pocket opening edges
to side hip yokes at placement lines. On
inside, stitch pocket pieces together. Stitch
front edges of pockets right sides together
(center seam). Press seam allowances open.
Baste upper and side pocket piece edges to
front trousers wrong side.
Stitch right side seam and inside leg
seams. Stitch right side seam of waistband
pieces (on inside and outside waistband as
opposites). Press seam allowances open.
Stitch outer waistband pieces to upper
trousers edges. Press seam allowances
toward waistband pieces.
Sew invisible zipper to trouser left
opening and waistband (see instructions on
page 66). Stitch left side seam from lower
edge to zipper.
Lay inside waistband pieces right sides
together with outer waistband pieces, pin
upper edges together. Turn ends of
waistband pieces back at zipper opening
3
16" (5mm) before opening edge, pin at
upper edge. Lay outer waistband seam
allowances at opening edges outward and
pin at upper edge over inside waistband
pieces. Stitch along upper edges. Turn seam
allowances at opening edges and inside
waistband pieces to inside.
Lay inside waistband pieces up in back
and press upper waistband edge seam
allowances open 2" (5cm). Stitch
remainder of front and back center seam to
inside waistband edge. Press center back
seam allowances open from upper edge to
beginning of curve. Do not press seam
allowances flat along curve. Turn in inside
waistband edge and hand-stitch in place.
Press hem allowances to inside and
hand-stitch in place.
Press creases in back trouser pieces.
Press creases in front hems.

111-

022015-US
Square-Neck
Top 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1nWxXug

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42


on page 27
Finished back length: 16" (40cm)

82

burda style.com

Materials
Boucl knit, 54" (137cm) wide: 1 8yds
(1.2m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notion: Fusible bias stay tape
3

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for


general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Cut
apart piece 3 on the marked seamline to
make sleeve front and sleeve back. Cut out
all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); hem, 4"
(10cm)

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Boucl knit:
1front, cut 1 on fold
2back, cut 1 on fold
3sleeve front, cut 2
3sleeve back, cut 2
4front facing, cut 1 fold
5back facing, cut 1 on fold
a) 2 sleeve ruffles: size 34: 19" (49cm);
size 36: 19" (50cm); size 38: 20"
(51cm); size 40: 20" (52cm); size 42:
21" (53cm) long; and 8" (20cm) wide,
excluding seam allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse bias stay tape to wrong side of
armhole edges.

Construction
Stitch bust darts. Press darts down.
Stitch side seams (seam number 1). Stitch
lower sleeve seams (seam number 2). Press
seams open. Stitch sleeves to armhole edges,
beginning and ending at marked neck edge.
Press seam allowances open, from upper
edges to beginning of underarm curves.
Stitch upper sleeve seams (seam number 5).
Press seam allowances open.
Stitch neck facing shoulder seams. With
right sides together, pin neck facing to neck
edge. Stitch along marked neck edge. Trim
seam allowances. Understitch facing, close
to seam. Turn facing to inside, and handstitch to seams.
On each sleeve ruffle piece, stitch
narrow edges together. With wrong sides
together, fold ruffle in half lengthwise and
press. Gather ruffle upper edges and stitch

to lower sleeve edges. Press seam


allowances toward sleeves.
Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place.

111.1-

022015-US
Oversized
Cardigan 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1nYH4eZ

Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/44


on page 35
Finished back length: 37" (95cm)

Materials
Boucl knit, 60" (152.5cm)) wide: size
34/36: 258yds (2.4m); size 38/40: 2yds
(2.5m); size 42/44: 278yds (2.60m)
Knit lining fabric, 12" 24" (30 60cm)
Notion: Fusible bias stay tape
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces from pattern sheet. Lengthen
piece 21 as indicated. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Boucl knit:
21front, cut 2
22back, cut 1 on fold
23sleeve, cut 2
24back facing, cut 1 on fold
25pocket, cut 2
a) hem band: size 34/36: 39" (100cm);
size 38/40: 42" (108cm); size 42/44:
45" (116cm) long; and 9" (24cm)
wide, excluding seam allowances
b) neck band: size 34/36: 17" (44.5cm);
size 38/40: 18" (46.5cm); size 42/44:
1918" (48.5cm) long; and 2" (5cm) wide,
excluding seam allowances
c) 2 sleeve bands: size 34/36: 8"
(20.5cm); size 38/40: 8" (21.5cm); size
42/44: 9" (22.5cm) long; and 6" (16cm)
wide, excluding seam allowances
Lining:
25 pocket, cut 2, minus width of facing
Fusible bias stay tape:
Fuse to wrong side of neck and armhole
edges, and front shoulder seam edges.

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project instructions

Construction
Stitch shoulder seams. Press seam
allowances open.
Stitch sleeves to armhole edges. Trim
seam allowances to " (6mm), neaten
edges together, and press toward sleeves.
Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as
continuous seams.
With right sides together, fold hem band
lengthwise. Stitch across ends. Turn rightside out. Stitch hem band edges together to
lower jacket edge, stretching to match.
Begin and end stitching at facing fold line.
Leave hem band lying on jacket.
With right sides together, fold neck band
lengthwise. Stitch across ends. Turn rightside out. Press neck band to shape, easing
folded edge and stretching attachment
edges. Baste neck band edges together to
neck edge, beginning and ending at facing
fold lines. Leave neck band lying on jacket.
Turn front self-facings to outside and
stitch to back facing. Pin, then stitch facing
to neck edge, over neck band, and to lower
edge, over hem band. Turn facing to inside.
Turn hem band down and turn neck band
up. Press edges. Baste inside edge of facing
in place, then stitch in place, working from
garment right side.
Patch pockets: Stitch pocket linings to selffacings, leaving 2" (5cm) open for turning.
Turn facings and lining to outside and stitch
to side and lower pocket edges. Turn pockets
right-side out. Sew seam openings closed.
Edgestitch pockets to jacket.
Stitch ends of each sleeve band together.
With wrong sides together, fold sleeve bands
in half. Stitch sleeve band edges together to
lower sleeve edges, stretching sleeve bands
to fit. Turn seam allowances up.

111A-

022015-US
Funnel-Neck
Top 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1sRwoWu

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42


on page 60
Finished length from waist: 9" (24cm)

Materials
Fine stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
1yds (1.3m) for all sizes
Interfacing scrap
Notion: Twin stretch needle, size 2.5/75

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for


general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 21 and 22 from pattern sheet.
Note different lines for right and left sleeves
on piece 22. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 8" (1.5cm); upper edge
of left sleeve, " (6mm); hem and sleeve
hems, 158" (4cm)
5

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch jersey:
21front and back with cut-on collar,
cut 1 on fold
22right sleeve, cut 1
22left sleeve (printed pattern side face
down), cut 1
Interfacing:
Fuse a 1" (3cm) strip of interfacing to
wrong side of front and back over marked
slash line. Fuse a 58" (1.5cm) strip of
interfacing to right armhole edge.

Construction
Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch
stitch, narrow zigzag or serging. To keep
hems flexible, stitch with a twin needle.
Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 1).
Trim seam allowances to " (6mm),
neaten edges together and press to one
side. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside.
From the right side, stitch 1" (3cm) from
fold using twin needle.
Mark fabric fold line on front and back near
marked slash line with basting stitches. Slash
front and back as marked. Pin left sleeve to cut
edges, first pinning sleeve seam to lower
marked fabric fold line and pinning seam mark
(upper sleeve edge) to upper marked fabric
fold line. Spread cut edges apart. Pin sleeve
edges " (6mm) on cut edges and stitch.
Neaten seam allowance at upper collar
edge.
Stitch right shoulder seam and collar
seam each as a French seam: Lay fabric
pieces wrong sides together and stitch a "
(6mm) seam. Press seam allowances open.
Lay pieces right sides together, with the
seam lying exactly along fold. Stitch 38"
(9mm) from folded edge along marked
seamline. Press seam allowances to one side.
Stitch right side seam. Trim seam
allowances, neaten edges together, and
press toward back.
Set in right sleeve.

Press hem allowance to inside, stitch


from right side with twin needle.

112-

022015-US
Workout Pants

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 35
Finished side length, including waistband:
40" (102cm)
Waistband edge is " (2cm) below normal
waistline

Materials
Fine jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 36,
38: 1yds (1.45cm); sizes 40, 42, 44:
178yds (1.65m)
Interfacing scrap
Notions: Elastic, 158" (4cm) wide: sizes 36,
38: 1yd (.9m); size 40: 118yd (.95m); sizes
42, 44: 1yds (1.1m); cord, 316" (5mm)
diameter: size 36: 158yds (1.4m); sizes 38,
40, 42, 44: 1yds (1.6m)
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 21-24 from cutting sheet. Trace
pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate
pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.
Stitching lines on piece 21 are marked for
size 36. For sizes 38 44, mark stitching
lines same distance from center front as for
size 36.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Fine jersey:
21front trouser, cut 2
21 pocket, cut 2
22side hip yoke with integrated pocket,
cut 2
23back trouser, cut 2
24back pocket, cut 2
a) waistband: size 36: 33" (85cm); size
38: 35" (89cm); size 40: 36" (93cm);
size 42: 38" (97cm); size 44: 39"
(101cm) long; and 4" wide, excluding
seam allowances
b) 4 bands for trouser legs: size 36: 8"
(22cm); size 38: 918" (23cm); size 40: 9"
(24cm); size 42: 10" (25cm); size 44:

SPRING 2015

BS_067-101_Instructions_Spring_15_01.15.15.indd 83

burda style.com

83

1/20/15 6:00 PM

project instructions

10" (26cm) long; and 4" (12cm) wide,


excluding seam allowances
Interfacing:
Fuse " (2cm) wide interfacing strips to
wrong side of front trouser pocket opening
edges.

Construction
Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch
stitch, narrow zigzag or serging.

Blue pattern line, sheets D1-D2


Pattern pieces 21 to 24
Size 36 AAAAA
Size 38 ===
Size 40 CCC
Size 42 67 67
Size 44 EEEEE

Cutting layouts
Jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Sizes 36, 38
Fold

Selvedges

Sizes 40 44
Fold

Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric,
right sides together.

84

burda style.com

Hip yoke pockets: With right sides


together, stitch pocket pieces to trouser
front pocket opening edges. Turn pocket
pieces to inside. Topstitch " (6mm) from
pocket opening edges. Pin pocket opening
edges to side hip yokes at placement lines.
Stitch pocket pieces together. Baste pocket
pieces to wrong side of front trouser pieces.
Back pockets: Turn self-facing on each
pocket to inside and stitch as marked. Press
seam allowances on side and lower edges
to inside. Pin pockets to back trouser pieces.
Edgestitch in place and stitch again "
(6mm) from edges.
Stitch side seams and inside leg seams.
Press seam allowances open.
With right sides together, pull one
trouser leg into the other. Stitch center front
and back seam as continuous seam. In
back, press center seam open from upper
edge to beginning of crotch curve. Do not
press seam allowances flat along curve. In
front, press wide seam allowances toward
right trouser piece. Topstitch right front
trouser piece as marked creating a mock fly.
Waistband: With right sides together,
fold waistband in half lengthwise. Press
folded edge. Unfold waistband again. Pin
waistband ends together, right sides facing.
Stitch seam on outer waistband half,
leaving inside half open to insert elastic.
Press seam allowances open. Mark center
front opposite from seam. On outer
waistband half, mark two small openings,
each 58" (1.5cm) long spaced 58" (1.5cm)
from center front and 58" (1.5cm) from
marked attachment seamline. Fuse small
pieces of interfacing to waistband wrong
side for reinforcement. Stitch buttonholes
on markings through interfaced outside
only. Fold waistband in half again. Stitch
waistband edges together to upper trousers
edge, stretching to match. Neaten seam
allowances and press down. Insert elastic in
waistband. Sew ends of elastic together to
a circumference of: size 36: 31" (80cm);
size 38: 33" (84cm); size 40: 34"
(88cm); size 42: 40" (102cm); size 44:
41" (106cm). Sew seam opening closed.
Pull cord into waistband through
buttonholes, using a safety pin or bodkin.
Knot ends of cord.
For each leg band, lay two pieces wrong
sides together, and baste edges. Treat these
pieces each as one layer of fabric for
construction. Stitch narrow edges of each
leg band together. Press seam open. Fold
leg bands in half, wrong sides together.
Stitch leg band edges together to lower
trouser leg edges, stretching to match.
Match leg band seams to inside leg seams.
Press seam allowances up.

112.1-

022015-US
Funnel-Neck
Dress 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1FkxIC7

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42


on page 57
Length from waist: 27" (70cm)

Materials
Stretch cloqu, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 34,
36, 38: 1yds (1.5m); sizes 40, 42:
2yds (2.20m)
Interfacing scrap
Notion: Twin stretch needle, size 2.5/75
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 21 and 22 from pattern sheet.
Note different lines for right and left sleeve
on piece 22. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); upper edge
of left sleeve, " (6mm); hem and sleeve
hems, 158" (4cm)

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch cloqu:
21front and back with cut-on collar,
cut 1 on fold
22right sleeve, cut 1
22left sleeve (printed pattern side face
down), cut 1
Interfacing:
Fuse a 1" (3cm) strip of interfacing to
wrong side of front and back over marked
slash line. Fuse a 58" (1.5cm) strip of
interfacing to right armhole edge.

Construction
Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch
stitch, narrow zigzag or serging. To keep
hems flexible, stitch with a twin needle.
Stitch darts and press toward center.
Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 1).
Trim seam allowances to " (6mm),
neaten edges together and press to one
side. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside.
From the right side, stitch 1" (3cm) from
fold using twin needle.

SPRING 2015

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project instructions

Mark fabric fold line on front and back


near marked slash line with basting stitches.
Slash front and back as marked. Pin left
sleeve to cut edges, first pinning sleeve
seam to lower marked fabric fold line and
pinning seam mark (upper sleeve edge) to
upper marked fabric fold line. Spread cut
edges apart. Pin sleeve edges " (6mm) on
cut edges and stitch.
Neaten seam allowance at upper collar
edge.
Stitch right shoulder seam and collar
seam each as a French seam: Lay fabric
pieces wrong sides together and stitch a "
(6mm) seam. Press seam allowances open.
Lay pieces right sides together, with the
seam lying exactly along fold. Stitch 38"
(9mm) from folded edge along marked
seamline. Press seam allowances to one side.
Gather side seam between asterisks to
measure 6" (15cm).
Stitch right side seam. Trim seam
allowances, neaten edges together, and
press toward back.
Set in right sleeve.
Press hem allowance to inside, stitch
from right side with twin needle.

113-

022015-US
Top with
Leather Trim

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1iSOzXj

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42


on page 34
Finished back length: 19" (48cm)

Materials
Sweater knit or sweatshirt fabric, 54"
(137cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: 1yds
(1.1m); size 42: 1yds (1.3m)
Nappa leather or imitation leather, for
sleeve patches: 8" 10" (20 25cm)
Lining scrap, to cover snaps
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; grosgrain
ribbon, 1" (2.5cm) wide: 78yd (.7m); 4
sew-on snap fasteners; twin stretch needle,
size 2.5/75
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Note
different lines for right shoulder seam and
left shoulder fastening. Trace patch from

piece 23 as a separate pattern piece. Cut


out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); hem and
sleeve hems, 238" (6cm); cut patches
without seam allowances

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Knit fabric:
21front, cut 1 on fold
22back, cut 1 on fold
23sleeve, cut 2
a) neck band: size 34: 15" (40cm); size 36:
16" (41cm); size 38: 16" (42cm); size 40:
17" (43cm); size 42: 17" (44cm) long; and
3" (7cm) wide, excluding seam allowances
b) upper left pocket, 4" (10cm) long, and
438" (11cm) wide
Note: First cut both halves of back same
size, from double fabric layer. Then, for
right shoulder seam, trim self-facing to 58"
(1.5cm) before marked right seam" line.
Leather/imitation leather:
23patch, cut 2
Fusible bias stay tape:
Fuse to wrong side of right front shoulder
seam edge.

Construction
Note: On stretch fabrics, stitch seams with a
stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or serging.
Stitch hems with a twin needle to keep
them flexible.
Patch pocket: Cut a 5" (14cm) piece
of grosgrain ribbon for the pocket. Lay
ribbon on upper pocket edge so edge lies
1
8" (3mm) from marked seamline.
Edgestitch ribbon in place. Turn ribbon/
seam allowance to inside and press edge.
Stitch lower ribbon edge in place. On
remaining pocket edges, finish seam
allowances and press to inside. Edgestitch
pocket to left front at placement line.
Stitch right shoulder seam. Neaten seam
allowances together and press forward.
With wrong sides together, fold neck
band in half. Stitch long edges together to
neck edge, stretching slightly to match.
Press seam allowances toward top.
Shoulder opening: Cut two pieces of
grosgrain ribbon, each: size 34: 978" (25cm);
size 36: 10" (25.5cm); size 38: 10" (26cm);
size 40: 10" (26.5cm); size 42: 10"
(27cm) long, for shoulder fastening. Lay one
ribbon piece on wrong side of seam allowance
underlap edge (left edge), leaving ribbon
extending 38" (1cm) past neck band folded
edge. Stitch ribbon in place, directly next to

seamline. Turn extending ribbon end under


at neck band edge. Turn ribbon with seam
allowance to right fabric side. Stitch ribbon
edge in place, 18" (3mm) from placement line
and seamline. Press folded edge. Stitch turnedin ribbon end in place. Lay second piece of
ribbon on right side of seam allowance on
front shoulder edge, leaving ribbon extending
3
8" (1cm) past neck band. Stitch ribbon edge
in place 18" (3mm) from seamline. Turn
extending ribbon end under. Lay front right on
back, right sides together. Stitch left shoulder
seam from slit mark to armhole edge. On
front shoulder edge, turn ribbon with seam
allowance to inside. Stitch ribbon edge to front
and neck band, not catching underlap. Stitch
turned-in ribbon end in place. Lay front slit
edge on underlap and baste to armhole.
Edgestitch elbow patches in place on
sleeves.
Stitch sleeves to armhole edges,
stretching to match, beginning and ending
exactly at marked seamlines. At seam ends,
turn seam allowances of sleeves back and
pin in place. Stitch side seams from sleeve
attachment seams to lower edge. Remove
pins. Stitch sleeve seams.
Press hem allowances on top and on
sleeves to inside. Work from right side and
use twin needle to stitch hems 2" (5cm)
from folded edges. On sleeves, begin and
end stitching at sleeve patches. Below
patches, hand-stitch hem allowance in place.
Cover snap fasteners with lining fabric
(see instructions on page 69). At shoulder
opening, sew top snap halves to wrong
side of front opening edge. Space first
snap 38" (1cm) from neck band edge,
second snap 1" (3cm) from first snap,
and two more snaps, each spaced 2"
(5.5cm) apart. Sew bottom snap halves to
underlap to match.

114-

022015-US
Cumberbund
Skirt 
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 60
Finished skirt length from waist: 23"
(58cm)
Upper skirt edge sits 4" (10cm) above
natural waistline

Materials
Poplin, 54" (137cm) wide: 158yds (1.4m)
for all sizes

SPRING 2015

BS_067-101_Instructions_Spring_15_01.15.15.indd 85

burda style.com

85

1/20/15 6:00 PM

project instructions

Green pattern line, sheets C1-C2


Pattern pieces 1 to 6
Size 34 2222
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777

NZ_BS1404_114T
Cutting
layout

Poplin, 54" (137cm) wide


Sizes 34-44
Fold

Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric,
right sides together.

Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 16" (40cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet.
Lengthen pieces 1, 2, and 3 as indicated.
Cut out all paper pieces.
Welt joining line on piece 1 is marked for
size 34 only. Remark this line for other sizes
according to size lines.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); hem, 4"
(10cm)

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
86

burda style.com

Poplin:
1center front skirt, cut 1 on fold
2side front skirt, cut 2
3back skirt, cut 2
4pocket, cut 4 (2 to lining line)
5front facing, cut 1 on fold
6back facing, cut 2
a) 4 bias welt strips, 718" (18cm) long, and
1" (3cm) wide, including seam
allowances
b) tie belt, total length: size 34: 57"
(146cm); size 36: 59" (150cm); size 38:
60" (154cm); size 40: 62" (158cm);
size 42" 63" (162cm); size 44: 65"
(166cm) long; and 3" (7cm) wide,
excluding seam allowances
c) 4 belt carriers, 12" (30cm) long, and
238" (6cm) wide, including seam
allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse 1" (3cm) interfacing strips over front
skirt pocket markings.

Construction
Welt pockets and front section seams:
Use basting thread to mark welt
placement lines " (6mm) from welt
joining lines (finished welt width) on right
side of center and side front skirt panels.
With wrong sides together, fold welt
strips lengthwise, press. Lay folded welt
strips on center and side front skirts so
folded edge of welts meet placement line
and welt ends extend evenly at corners.
Stitch welts each " (6mm) from folded
edge along joining lines, beginning and
ending exactly at corners. Clip seam
allowances diagonally toward each last
stitch. Do not cut into welts. Lay welts
into pocket openings and press. Mark
pocket opening ends on welt folded
edges 38" (1cm) from each seam end
(above upper end, below lower end). Fold
small fabric triangles at pocket opening
ends to inside and stitch to welts from
seam end to marking. Stitch front section
seams above and below pocket opening.
Press seam allowances open. Stitch
smaller pockets to front welt seam
allowances; stitch larger pocket pieces to
seam allowances of side welts. Topstitch
skirt panels close to welt joining seams.
Stitch pocket pieces together. Baste upper
pocket piece edges in place. Topstitch
skirt panels at pocket opening ends along
angled welt joining seams.
Stitch back darts and press toward
center.
Sew invisible zipper to back skirt opening
(see instructions on page 66). Stitch center
back seam from lower edge to zipper.

Stitch skirt and facing side seams.


With right sides together, fold belt
carriers lengthwise, stitch 58" (1.5cm) from
folded edge. Turn right-side out. Topstitch
close to edges. Fold belt carriers each in half
so that ends lie next to one another and a
point is formed in the middle. Press point.
Stitch across belt carriers above point. Baste
belt carriers on upper skirt edge over front
section seams and back darts.
Upper skirt edge: Pin facing right sides
together with upper skirt edge. Turn facing
ends back at zipper opening back 316"
(5mm) before opening edge, pin at upper
edge. Lay seam allowances at opening
edges of skirt outward and pin at upper
skirt edge, over facing. Stitch along upper
skirt edge. Turn seam allowances at
opening edges to inside. Lay facing up and
understitch as far as possible next to seam.
Turn facing to inside and hand-stitch to
zipper tapes. Topstitch upper skirt edge as
marked, catching in belt carriers.
Press hem allowance to inside and stitch
358" (9cm) from fold.
With right sides together, fold tie belt
lengthwise. Stitch edges together, leaving a
small opening for turning. Turn belt right-side
out. Sew opening closed. Topstitch belt edges.

115-

022015-US
Structured
Peplum Top 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1pE9Ln4

Burda sizes 17, 18, 19, 20, 21


on page 29
Finished back length: 20" (52cm)

Materials
Jacquard, 60" (152.5cm): 178yds (1.7m)
for all sizes
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 17, 18:
1yds (1.1m); sizes 19, 20, 21: 138yds
(1.15m)
Interfacing
Notions: Grosgrain ribbon, 2" (5cm) wide:
yd (.4m) for all sizes; 4 hook-and-eye
fasteners
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-10, 12, and 13 from pattern
sheet. Trace pocket piece from piece 5 as a

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project instructions

separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper


pieces. Markings for hook fasteners on
piece 1 are for size 17. For other sizes,
move top mark up according to neck edge;
bottom mark is same for all sizes. Space
other marks evenly in between.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Jacquard:
1center front, cut 2
2side front, cut 2
3center back, cut 1 on fold
4side back, cut 2
5front peplum, cut 4
5 pocket, cut 2
6back peplum, cut 2 on fold
7sleeve front, cut 2
8sleeve back, cut 2
9upper sleeve front, cut 2
10upper sleeve back, cut 2
12front facing, cut 2
13back facing, cut 1 on fold
Lining:
1 center front, cut 2 to lining line
2 side front, cut 2
3 center back, cut 1 on fold to lining line
and with " (2cm) center back ease pleat
4 side back, cut 2
5 pocket, cut 2
7 sleeve front, cut 2 to lining line
8 sleeve back, cut 2 to lining line
9 upper sleeve front, cut 2
10 upper sleeve back, cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Interface outer peplum pieces and sleeve
hem allowances.

Construction
Stitch front and back sections and side
seams. Stitch side seams of outer and inner
peplum pieces. Stitch facing shoulder
seams. Press all seams open.
Peplum attachment seam and in-seam
pockets: With right sides together, pin each
pocket lining piece to outer front peplum
pocket opening edge. Stitch to seam
allowance, 116" (1mm) from seamline.
Press pockets up and stitch to seam
allowances, close to seam. With right sides
together, lay jacquard pockets on fronts,
between seam marks. Stitch to seam
allowance, 116" (1mm) from seamline. Press
pocket pieces down. Stitch outer peplum to
fronts and to back, leaving pocket openings
free. Press seam allowances open. Press
pocket pieces down. Trim pocket pieces
evenly and stitch together.

Sleeves: Stitch upper sleeve seams (seam


number 4). On upper sleeve pieces and
upper sleeve lining pieces, stitch seams
(seam number 6). Press seam allowances
open. With right sides together, lay upper
sleeves of main fabric and lining together.
Stitch lower edges together. Trim seam
allowances. Turn lining down and
understitch close to seam. Turn lining to
inside. Baste open edges together. Lay
upper sleeves on sleeves, above seam
marks, and baste open edges together.
Stitch lower sleeve seams (seam number 5).
Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and
hand-stitch in place.
Stitch sleeves to fronts and back. Press
seam allowances open, from upper edges
to beginnings of underarm curves.
With right sides together, stitch front
facing lower ends to inside peplum. At
seam ends, clip seam allowance of inside
peplum. Press seam allowances open.
For underlap, fold grosgrain ribbon in
half lengthwise. Stitch across one end, "
(6mm) from end. Beginning at this seam,
measure underlap: size 17: 12" (30.5cm);
size 18: 12" (31.5cm); size 19: 1278"
(32.5cm); size 20: 13" (33cm); size 21:
13" (34cm) long, then stitch across other
end of ribbon. Trim ribbon end " (6mm)
from seam. Turn underlap right side out and
press. Lay underlap on front edge right side
of left front facing, below neck edge so that
folded edge lies on garment piece, 58"
(1.5cm) past seamline. Stitch underlap to
seam allowance.
With right sides together, pin facings and
inside peplum to jacket. Stitch along peplum
edges, front edges, and neck edge. On front
edges, leave " (6mm) open at seam
marks, for hooks and eyes. Turn facings to
inside, turn peplum right-side out, and lay
underlap forward. On both front edges, slide
hooks through small openings, from inside
to outside. Sew ends of hooks and eyes to
facing. Lay inside edge of peplum over
attachment seam and pin. Working from
right side, stitch along seam, beginning and
ending 238" (6cm) from front edges.
Sew lining: On lining back, stitch ease
pleat at top and bottom 2" (5cm) long and
baste in between. Press pleat to one side.
Stitch lining seams. Set in sleeves.
Sew lining to jacket: Stitch lining to
inside facing edge, leaving 3" (8cm)
open at bottom. With wrong sides together,
lay lining inside jacket, pulling into sleeves.
Turn lower lining edge under and handstitch to peplum attachment seam. Sew
remaining front lining edges in place. Turn
edges of sleeve linings under and handstitch to hem allowances. Lay extra length
down and press.

115.1-

022015-US
Floral Skinny
Jeans 
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes, 34, 36, 38, 30, 42, 44


on page 36
Finished side length: 39" (101cm)
Waistband upper edge sits " (2cm) below
natural waistline
Leg hem circumference: 11" (28cm)

Materials
Stretch twill, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 158yds
(1.45m) for all sizes
Waistband interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: 5"
(12cm); sizes 42, 44: 6" (14cm) long;
1 button
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Trace pocket drawn on piece 1 as a
separate pattern piece; trace piece 6 twice.
The zipper stitching line on piece 1 is drawn
for size 34. For other sizes, lay piece 6 on
front edge of piece 1 and transfer inner
edge of facing to mark stitching line.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch twill:
1 trousers front, cut 2
1 pocket piece, cut 2
2 hip yoke piece with integrated pocket,
cut 2
3 trousers back, cut 2
4 back yoke, cut 2
5 pocket, cut 2
6 facing and underlap, cut 4
a) waistband: size 34: 31" (79cm); size
36: 32" (83cm); size 38: 34" (87cm);
size 40: 36" (91cm); size 42: 37"
(95cm); size 44: 39" (99cm) long; and
3" (8cm) wide, including seam
allowances
(b) small pocket: 5" (13cm) high, and
4" (12cm) wide, including seam
allowances
(c) 5 belt loops, total: 16" (40cm), and 1"
(3cm) wide, including seam allowances

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87

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project instructions

Interfacing:
Fuse interfacing to waistband wrong side.

Construction
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above marking by pressing with a
steam iron or under a damp cloth until they
are as long as on front trouser pieces.
Stitch yokes to back trousers (seam number
1). Finish edges of seam allowances together,

Blue pattern line, sheets B1-B2


Pattern pieces 1 to 6
Size 34 2222
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777

NZ_BS1403_115T

Cutting layout
Stretch twill, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Sizes 34 to 44
Fold

Selvedges
Cut
from a double layer of fabric, right
BS1403_115WS_Z
sides together.

88

burda style.com

and press toward yokes. Topstitch yokes close


to seams and " (6mm) from seams.
Back pockets: Press seam allowance on
upper edge to wrong side, turn under to
3
8" (1cm), and edgestitch. Finish side and
lower edge seam allowances and press to
wrong side. Stitch pockets close to edges
and " (6mm) from edges onto back
trousers at marked placement lines .
With right sides together, stitch back
trousers pieces together at center back.
Finish seam allowances together and press
toward right trouser. Topstitch seam.
Small front pocket: Finish all edges of
piece b. Press one short edge (upper edge)
under 58" (1.5cm). Turn edge under to 38"
(1cm); edgestitch. Press remaining edges to
wrong side, 38" (1cm) wide. Edgestitch
pocket to right hip yoke at marked
placement lines.
With right sides together, stitch pockets to
front trouser pocket opening edges. Trim
seam allowances narrowly. Turn pocket pieces
to inside. Press edges. Working from right side
of trousers, topstitch close to pocket opening
edges and " (6mm) from edge.
Stitch pocket pieces together. Lay front
trouser pieces on hip yoke pieces, matching
placement lines. Stitch pocket piece to hip
yoke. Baste trouser edges to hip yokes.
Finish seam allowances of center seam and
left opening edge.
Front opening and zipper: Finish inner
facing edge. Stitch facing to right trouser as
far as opening mark. At end of seam, turn
facing up and pin in place. Stitch center
front seam. Press facing to inside and
topstitch close to edge. Clip left opening
edge 38" (1cm) below mark, and press to
inside as far as clip.
Edgestitch left opening edge to zipper
tape with teeth 18" (3mm) below tape
attachment seam. Close zipper. Pin opening
closed, matching center fronts. Working
from inside, stitch remaining zipper tape to
facing, leaving trousers free.
Baste facing to right trouser front.
Topstitch right opening edge from top
down to 1" (3cm) before opening
marked end. Stitch underlap pieces
together along rounded edge. Turn rightside out and press. Finish open long edges
together and pin them to left opening
edge, over zipper tape. Stitch seam
allowance of left opening edge to underlap,
close to zipper attachment seam.
Close zipper. Topstitch remaining
opening edge, catching underlap. Topstitch
right trouser side close to center seam.
Press belt loop long edges to wrong side
" (6mm) and topstitch close to folded
edges. Cut 5 loops, each " (8cm) long.

Stitch side seams, matching knee marks


and adjacent seamlines. Finish seam
allowances together and press toward
trouser back.
Stitch inner leg seams, matching knee
marks, center seams, and seamlines. Press
seam allowances open and finish edges. Pin
belt loops to trouser upper edge: one loop
at each front pocket opening edge, one
over center back seam, and one 2" (5cm)
from each side back edge.
Waistband: Fold waistband in half
lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press.
Unfold band again. Trim seam allowance
on upper trouser edge to 38" (1cm). With
right sides together, pin waistband to
upper trouser edge and underlap,
allowing ends to extend 38" (1cm). Stitch
waistband in place, 38" (1cm) from edge.
Press seam allowances toward waistband.
Press allowance on opposite long edge to
wrong side.
With right sides together, fold
waistband in half. Stitch across ends, 38"
(1cm) from fabric edges. Turn waistband
right-side out. Pin waistband inner half
over attachment seam. Topstitch close to
all waistband edges, catching inner edge.
Stitch across loops, 38" (1cm) below
waistband attachment seam. Turn loops
up, turn ends under, and pin them to
upper waistband edge waistband.
Edgestitch loop ends in place.
Stitch buttonhole in right front
waistband edge 58" (1.5cm) from front
edge. Sew button to left waistband end to
match. Press leg hem allowances to inside,
turn edge under to a hem width of "
(2cm), and edgestitch in place.

115A-

022015-US
Wrap Blouse 
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42


on page 61
Finished back length: 20" (50cm)
-sleeves: 19" (48cm) long

Materials
Crpe, 45" (114.5cm) wide: size 34:
178yds (1.65m); sizes 36, 39, 40, 42:
218yds (1.9m)
Notion: Fusible bias stay tape
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

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project instructions

Preparation
Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Crpe:
21front, cut 2
22back, cut 2
23sleeve, cut 2
a) bias strip for neck edge: size 34: 23"
(60cm); size 36: 24" (61cm); size 38:
24" (63cm); size 40: 25" (64cm); size

Black pattern line, sheets C1-C2


Pattern pieces 21 to 23
Size 34 AAAAA
Size 36 ===
Size 38 CCC
Size 40 67 67
Size 42 EEEEE

Cutting NZ_BS1404_115-1T
layouts
Crpe, 45" (114.5cm) wide
Size 34
Fold

42: 26" (66cm) long; and 158" (4cm)


wide, including seam allowances
Fusible bias stay tape:
Fuse to front shoulder seam and armhole
edges.

Construction
Stitch bust darts, press darts up. Stitch
center back seam and side seams. Trim seam
allowances to " (6mm) and neaten edges
together. Press center seam allowances to one
side, press side seam allowances toward back.
Miter front hem corners: Lay hem
allowance and front edge seam allowance
outward, stitch at an angle. Trim miter seam
allowances to 316" (5mm) and press open.
Turn hem and front edges to inside and baste.
Topstitch front edges and hem edge
1" (3.5cm) from folded edges.
Pin right front to left front with wrong
side facing right side and matching centers.
Baste shoulder seams together.
Stitch shoulder seams. Press seam
allowances toward back.
Neck edge: With wrong sides together,
fold bias strip lengthwise and press. Turn in
one end of strip. Pin folded bias strip to
neck edge so that folded edge lies on
garment piece 38" (1cm) past seamline and
open end of strip lies over turned-in end at
one shoulder seam. Stitch along neck
seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias
strip to inside. Topstitch neck edge "
(6mm) from fold.
Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem
allowances to inside, stitch hem 1"
(3.5cm) from fold.
Set in sleeves.

116-

022015-US
Low-Rise
Cropped Pants

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/V2H8T1

Selvedges

Sizes 36 42
Fold

Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric, right
sides together. Cut the bias strip last
from a single layer of remaining fabric.

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44


on page 61
Finished side length, 78-trousers: 36"
(93cm)
Leg hem circumference: 18" (45cm)
Note: These trousers are cut a bit wider at
the waist to allow them to slip down
fashionably when worn.

Materials
Wool tissue faille, 60" (152cm) wide: sizes
34, 36, 38: 138yds (1.2m); sizes 40, 42,
44: 158yds (1.4m)

Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: 38yd (.3m)


Interfacing
Notions: 3 buttons
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet.
Lengthen piece 1 as indicated. Cut out all
paper pieces.
Stitching line on piece 1 is marked for size 34.
Mark stitching line for sizes 36 44 at same
width. Buttonhole on piece 1 is marked for
size 34. Remark buttonhole for other sizes
accordingly. Pocket lines (welt pocket) on
piece 2 are marked in full for size 34 only.
Complete the pocket lines for other sizes
accordingly.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Wool tissue faille:
1front trouser, cut 2
3back trouser, cut 2
4back underlap, cut 2
5front facing, cut 1 on fold
6back facing, cut 2
a) bias welt strip for back pocket, 6"
(15cm) long, and 238" (6cm) wide,
including seam allowances
b) back pocket, 6" (15cm) wide, and 8"
(20cm) long, including seam allowances
c) bias strip for 1 loop, 4" (10cm) long, and
1" (3cm) wide, including seam
allowances
Lining:
2pocket, cut 2
d) back pocket, 6" (15cm) wide, and 5"
(13cm) long, including seam allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse a 158" (4cm) interfacing strip over
pocket marking on right back trouser.

Construction
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above marking by pressing with a
steam iron or under a damp cloth until they
are as long as on front trouser pieces.
Stitch darts on front and back trouser
pieces and press toward center.
With wrong sides together, fold front
trouser pieces lengthwise and press creases.
Press lengthwise edges of loop to wrong
side " (6mm). Fold fabric strip in half,
stitch edges together. Form fabric strip into

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89

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project instructions

a loop so that ends lie next to each other


and a point is formed in the middle. Stitch
across loop " (2cm) from point.
Single welt pocket (right back): Mark a
placement line for welt spaced 58" (1.5cm)
from welt joining line (finished width of welt).
With wrong sides together, fold welt strip
lengthwise and press. Baste folded welt strip
over welt joining line so that folded welt edge
meets placement line and open lengthwise
edges lie between pocket lines. Stitch welt
along welt joining line. Baste loop on right
back trouser piece centered on marked
pocket joining line so that loop points up.
Finished loop length should measure 158"
(4cm). Loop will be caught in pocket
stitching. Mark joining line on right side of
fabric pocket 258" (6.5cm) below upper
edge. Pin fabric pocket right sides together
with trouser piece so pocket joining lines lie
together and lower pocket piece edge points
up. Stitch pocket piece joining lines together.
Clip back trouser between welt joining seam
and pocket joining seam, clipping diagonally
toward each last stitch, but not cutting into
welt or pocket. Lay welt into pocket opening,
pull pocket to inside. Stitch pocket lining to
seam allowances of welt joining seam. Pull
small triangles of fabric at pocket opening
ends to inside and stitch to welt and pocket
pieces, from seam end to seam end. Stitch
pocket pieces together. Baste upper pocket
piece edge in placeit will be caught in
topstitching at upper trousers edges.
Stitch center front and back seams from
upper edges 4" (10cm) long. Stitch back
facing center seam. Press seam allowances
open. Press seam allowance at lower edge
of front and back facing to inside. With
right sides together, pin front facing to front
trouser upper edge.
With right sides together, fold pocket on
fold line. Press folded edge. Unfold pocket
again. Turn in seam allowance at upper
pocket edge and stitch. Press seam allowance
at inside lengthwise edge (longer edge) of
underlaps to inside. Lay underlaps on back
edge of pocket with wrong side facing right
side, underlap extends from seam mark (seam
number 2). Stitch close to pressed-under edge
of underlap, baste outer edges together.
Pin pocket right sides together with
front pocket opening edge below seam
mark (seam number 1), upper pocket edge
lies on facing. Stitch along pocket opening
edges and upper trousers edge, beginning
and ending at bottom, exactly at seam
mark (seam number 4). Turn facing and
pocket to inside, press edges.
Stitch underlaps to back pocket
opening edge from upper edge of trousers
(seam number 3) to marking (seam
number 4). Press seam allowances toward
90

burda style.com

trouser pieces. Pin and stitch back facing


right sides together with upper edge of
back trouser pieces and underlaps. Turn
facing to inside. Turn in facing ends and
stitch to underlap. Topstitch upper back
trousers edge 158" (4cm) from edge,
catching inside facing edge.
Lay lower pocket edges up at pocket
opening ends and pin. Stitch side seams from
seam number 4. Press seam allowances open.
Remove pins from pockets. Lay pocket edges
down, pin at seam allowances of side seams
and stitch to seam allowances close to seam,
ending 38" (1cm) above marked lower pocket
edge. Fold pocket pieces right sides together
along fold line (pressed crease), stitch lower
edges together. Pin upper edge of pockets to
front trousers. Topstitch pocket opening
edges and upper edge of front trouser pieces
as marked, catching pocket pieces and facing.
Stitch inside leg seams. Stitch remaining
center front and back seam continuously.
Press hem allowances to inside and
hand-stitch in place.
Press creases on back trouser pieces.
Press creases in front hems.
Stitch buttonholes as marked.

Black pattern line, sheets D1-D2


Pattern pieces 1 to 15
Size 17 3333
Size 18 4444
Size 19 55
Size 20 6666
Size 21 7777

116B-

022015-US
Bustier Top
Wedding Dress


Cutting layout

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Jacquard, 60" (152.5)cm wide


Sizes 17 21
Fold

Burda sizes 17, 18, 19, 20, 21


on page 50
Finished length from waist: 25" (65cm)
-sleeves: 19" (48cm) long

Materials
Jacquard, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 17,
18, 19: 2yds (1.8m); sizes 20, 21: 218yds
(1.85m)
Bodice lining, 54" (137cm) wide: yd
(.45m) for all sizes (without sleeves)
Interfacing
Lightweight batting or fleece
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-15 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.

Selvedges
Cut from a double layer of fabric, right
sides together.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); hem and
sleeve hems, 1" (3cm)

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Jacquard:
1center front, cut 1 on fold
2side front, cut 2
3upper bust, cut 2
4center lower bust, cut 2

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project instructions

5side lower bust, cut 2


6upper side front, cut 2
7center back, cut 2
8side back, cut 2
9band, cut 4
10sleeve front, cut 2
11sleeve back, cut 2
12center front skirt, cut 1 on fold
13side front skirt, cut 2
14center back skirt, cut 2
15side back skirt, cut 2
Lining:
1center front, cut 1 on fold
2side front, cut 2
3upper bust, cut 2
4center lower bust, cut 2
5side lower bust, cut 2
6upper side front, cut 2
7center back, cut 2
8side back, cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Baste batting to wrong side of bust pieces
3, 4, and 5.

Construction
Stitch side fronts to center front (seam
number 1). Press seam allowances open.
Stitch center lower bust pieces to side
lower bust pieces. Press seam allowances
open. Stitch upper bust pieces to lower
bust units. Stitch upper side fronts to
upper bust pieces, from seam mark (seam
number 4). Press seam allowances open.
Beginning at seam number 5, stitch
upper side fronts and bust pieces to curved
attachment edges of front as continuous
seams. Clip front seam allowance into
corners. Stitch front edge of bust pieces to
front, beginning and ending at top, exactly
at marked neck edge. Trim attachment
seam allowances and press toward front.
Stitch side back pieces to center back
pieces, beginning exactly at seam mark
(seam number 6). Stitch bodice side seams
and shoulder seams. Press seam allowances
open.
Stitch section seams on front and back
skirts. Stitch side seams. Press seam
allowances open.
Stitch skirt to bodice. Press seam
allowances up.
Sew invisible zipper to back opening
edges (see instructions on page 66). Stitch
center back seam from lower edge to zipper.
Sew lining as for bodice.
With right sides together, pin lining to
dress neck edge. At zipper opening, turn
lining back 316" (5mm) before opening
edge, and pin to neck edge. On dress

opening edges, turn seam allowances to


outside and pin to neck edge, over lining.
Stitch along neck edge, interrupting
stitching at corners of neck edge and not
catching seam allowances of section seams.
Trim seam allowances. Turn seam
allowances on opening edges to inside.
Turn lining up and understitch as far as
possible, close to seam. Turn lining to
inside, turn in edges, and sew to zipper
tapes and skirt attachment seam. Baste
lining to armholes.
With right sides together, stitch each
interfaced band piece to an un-interfaced
band piece, leaving long side edge open
from seam mark to back corner. Trim seam
allowances and clip at seam mark. Press
edges. Baste open band edges together to
front and back armhole edges, beginning at
top seam mark. Turn loose front band ends
back and hand-stitch to horizontal section
seam. In back, hand-stitch bands to neck
edge corners.
Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem
allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.
Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.
Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place.

117-

022015-US
Deep V-Neck
Top 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1iMJJLH

Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/44


on page 31
Finished back length: 24" (60cm)
-sleeves: 5" (14cm) shorter than
normal

Materials
Crpe, 54" (137cm) wide: Size 34/36:
1yds (1.6m); sizes 38/40, 42/44: 178yds
(1.65m)
Interfacing
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 21-26, and 29 from pattern
sheet. Cut piece 21 apart on marked
seamline to make front and front yoke. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Pleat arrow on piece 22 is marked for size

34/36. For other sizes, mark pleat arrow


according to size lines.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); hem, 158"
(4cm); sleeve hems, " (2cm)

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Crpe:
21front, cut 2
21front yoke, cut 2
22back, cut 2
23back yoke, cut 2 on fold
24front sleeve, cut 2
25center sleeve, cut 2
26back sleeve, cut 2
29front facing, cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.

Construction
Stitch center front seam, beginning on
upper edge, exactly at neck edge
seamline.
Stitch center back seam. Press seams
open. Lay upper back pleats in direction of
arrows and baste.
Stitch front yokes to front. Stitch outer
back yoke to back. Press seam allowances
toward yokes.
Stitch shoulder seams. Trim seam
allowances to " (6mm) wide, neaten
edges together, and press toward back.
On facing, stitch center front seam,
beginning on upper edge, exactly at marked
neck edge. Stitch front neck facing to inside
back yoke at shoulder seams. Press seam
allowances open.
With right sides together, pin front
neck facing and inside yoke to neck edge.
Stitch along neck edge. Trim seam
allowances. Turn facing and inside yoke to
inside and press edge. Turn inside yoke
edges under and sew to seams. Baste
armhole edges together. Hand-stitch
inside facing edges to seams.
Stitch center sleeve pieces to front and back
sleeve pieces. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch sleeves to armhole edges. Press
seam allowances toward sleeves.
Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as
continuous seams.
Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place. Press sleeve hem allowances
to inside, turn raw edges under, and stitch.

SPRING 2015

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burda style.com

91

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project instructions

117.1-

022015-US
Criss-Cross
V-Neck Dress

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1lJBDmc

Burda sizes 17, 18, 19, 20, 21


on page 56
Finished length from waist: 24" (62cm)

Materials
Stretch jacquard, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes
17, 18, 19: 178yds (1.7m); sizes 20, 21:
2yds (1.75m)
Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 21-29 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Note different lines for right and left edges
of back vent. Cut skirt panels same size
initially from double layer of fabric.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch jacquard:
21front with cut-on front band, cut 2
22back, cut 2
23back band, cut 2
24front skirt panel, cut 1 on fold
25back skirt panel, cut 2
26front sleeve, cut 2
27back sleeve, cut 2
28front neck facing, cut 2
29back neck facing, cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction
Stitch back darts on bodice and press
darts toward center. Sew invisible zipper to
back pieces from upper edges 6" (15cm)
long (see instructions on page 66).
Stitch shoulder and facings seams. Press
seam allowances open.
With right sides together, pin facings to
neck edges. Turn facings back at zipper 316"
(5mm) before opening edge, pin at neck
edge. Lay back opening seam allowance
edges outward and pin at neck edge, over
92

burda style.com

facings. Stitch along neck edge, stitching in


front exactly to marking. Clip front seam
allowances at marking. Turn facings to inside,
hand-stitch to zipper tapes and shoulder
seams. Baste front facing ends in place.
Stitch bust darts in fronts, beginning
exactly at marking and backstitching, leaving
seam allowances free. Press darts toward
center. Stitch darts in skirts and press toward
center. At center front, fold seam allowances
of top point down and press.
Stitch right front to upper edge of left
front cut-on band from seam number 3 to
dart seam (marking). Stitch lower edge of
left band to right front skirt half from seam
number 4 to center front. Press seam
allowances toward band. Fold right front
with cut-on band down. Stitch lower edge
of right band to left front skirt from seam
number 4 to center front, backstitching at
center front and go on to machine baste
band to left band as far as upper band
joining seams. Stitch seam allowance of
band to left band 38" (1cm) from marked
seamline. Lay right front with band up,
press seam. Remove machine basting. Stitch
left front to cut-on band of right front from
seam number 3 to dart seam (marking).
Press seam allowances toward band.
Stitch back bands to lower back edges
and upper edges of back skirts. Press seam
allowances toward bands.
Stitch remainder of invisible zipper as far as
opening mark. Stitch center back seam from
vent to zipper. Press seam allowances open,
press left vent facing to inside. Lay right vent
facing toward left back and press under,
tapering seam allowance of right back above
vent to avoid clipping. Turn underlap facing
back on fold line and press. Trim left vent
facing to 158" (4cm). Topstitch left back upper
vent at an angle as marked, catching underlap.
Stitch side seams (seam number 7).
Stitch upper and lower sleeve seams.
Press sleeve hem allowances to inside,
hand-stitch in place.
Set in sleeves. Press sleeve attachment
seam allowances toward sleeves above
underarm curve.
Turn vent facings back again at hem.
Press hem allowance to inside, hand-stitch
in place. Lay facings to inside again, handstitch to hem allowance.

122-

022015-US
Tulle Wedding
Gown 
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 72, 76, 80, 84, 88


on page 51
Finished length from waist: 45" (116cm)

Materials
Tulle lace with two scalloped edges, 36"
(90cm) wide: 338yds (3m) for all sizes
Chiffon, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 12yds
(11.5m)
Lightweight crpe-back satin, 54" (137cm)
wide, to back the lace and as lining: sizes
72, 76: 2yds (1.8m); sizes 80, 84, 88:
218yds (1.9m)
Interfacing
Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long;
fusible bias stay tape
Note: The hem edge on this dress is
unfinished, to allow it to fray. If you prefer,
narrowly hem or press the hem edge to the
wrong side and finish the folded edge with
a small zigzag stitch instead.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. For
lining, trace pieces 21 and 22 each a second
time, only to marked lining line. Cut out all
paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); slanted
lower front and back edges, " (6mm); no
allowances on skirt hem edge or on curved
outer sleeve edge

Diagrams:
Follow diagram on page 93 to make a fullsized pattern piece for skirt (a) and sleeve
(b). Use a large sheet of paper with right
angle edges (one on the fold) to draw a
quarter circle the measurements indicated.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Chiffon:
a) skirt, cut 8 on fold, following diagram
Lace:
21front, cut 1 on fold
22back, cut 2
23overskirt, cut 2 on fold

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project instructions

b) sleeve, cut 2 on fold, following diagram


Place lower edge of overskirt panels on lace
scalloped edge.
Crpe-back satin:
21front, cut 1 on fold
21lining front, cut 1 on fold
22back, cut 2
22lining back, cut 2
c) 2 straps: size 72: 12" (32cm); sizes 76,
80: 13" (33cm); sizes 84, 88: 13"
(34cm) long; and 1" (3cm) wide,
including seam allowances
Fusible bias stay tape:
Fuse to wrong side of upper edge lining pieces.

Diagrams
sleeve (b)

skirt (a)

Cutting layouts

For bodice, baste lace pieces to


corresponding satin pieces and treat each as
one layer for construction.
Stitch center back seam, ending at lower
seamline. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch bust darts and press darts down.
Stitch bodice right side seam.
Fold each skirt panel at center and use
basting thread to mark a slash line: size 72:
6" (16.5cm); size 76: 6 5.8" (16.8cm);
size 80: 6" (17cm); size 84: 7" (17.5cm);
size 88: 718" (18cm) long, along fabric fold
(seam allowance not included). Unfold skirt
panels and slash as marked. With right sides
together, lay pairs of skirt panels together.
Stitch along one straight edge, from bottom
(curved hem) to opening (center front and
center back seams). Unfold skirt panels. Trim
seam allowances to " (6mm) and press to
one side. With right sides together, lay pairs
of skirt units together. Stitch along one
straight edge from lower edge to opening to
make right side seam. Lay skirt units
together, with wrong side facing right side,
and baste together along upper attachment
edges. Baste remaining straight edges
together from top, 6" (16.5cm) long, for
the zipper opening. Mark end of opening.
Stitch right side seam on overskirt. With
right sides together, gather upper edge of
overskirt and baste to lower edge of bodice.
At left side edges, fold seam allowance of
overskirt to wrong side. Spread cut edges of
skirt panels open and pin them " (6mm)
wide to slanted lower edges of front and
back. End of slash should meet the point.
Stitch skirt in place, stitching as narrowly as
possible toward end of slash.
Sew invisible zipper to left side edges (see
instructions on page 66) as far as marking,
leaving overskirt free. Clip seam allowances
of upper fabric layer at lower end of
opening. On each fabric layer, stitch left side
seam separately, from lower edge to zipper.
On lining, stitch darts and center back seam.
Stitch right side seam as mirror image of dress

Crpe-back satin, 54" (137cm) wide


Selvedge

Red pattern line, sheets A1-A2


Pattern pieces 21 to 23
Size 72 AAAAA
Size 76 ===
Size 80 CCC
Size 84 67 67
Size 88 EEEEE

Selvedge

Lace, 36" (90cm) wide


Scallops

NZ_BS1403_122T
Lay out a single layer of fabric,
wrong side up. Pieces with a
broken outline are placed on
the fabric printed sides down.
Scallops

Chiffon, 60" (152.5cm) wide


Cut 8 skirt panels.
Selvedge

Selvedge

seam. Stitch left side seam of lining below


opening mark. Neaten lower lining edge.
With right sides together, pin lining to
neck edge. At zipper opening, turn lining
back, 316" (5mm) before opening edge,
and pin to upper edge. Turn seam
allowances on dress opening edges to
outside and pin to neck edge, over lining.
Stitch along neck edge. Trim seam

allowances and clip at center front. Turn


seam allowances on opening edges to
inside. Turn lining up and understitch close
to seam. Turn lining to inside and handstitch to zipper tapes.
Straps: With right sides together, fold
each strap lengthwise. Stitch " (6mm)
from folded edge. Turn straps right-side out
and press. Pin straps to inner side corner of

SPRING 2015

BS_067-101_Instructions_Spring_15_01.15.15.indd 93

Center Fold

Center Fold

3834" (98.5cm)

Ra
di
us

Construction

Ra
di
us

sizes 72, 76: 778" (20cm);


size 80: 8" (20.5cm);
sizes 84, 88: 814" (21cm)

38" (96.5cm)

burda style.com

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project instructions

neck edges on front and back. Try dress on


and adjust straps if needed. Sew in place.
Press seam allowance on straight edge
of each sleeve to inside. Pin pressed-under
sleeve edge to strap, leaving sleeve edge
extending 2" (5cm) long in front and 2"
(6cm) long in back. Stitch sleeves to straps.

128-

022015-US
Mens Linen
Jacket 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/V2Hzwy

Mens sizes 48, 50, 52, 54, 56


on page 60
Finished back length: 30" (77cm)

Materials
Silk/linen blend, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes
48, 50: 2yds (2.5m); sizes 52, 54, 56:
278yds (2.6m)
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: 78yd (.75m) for
all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 3 large
buttons, 8 small buttons
Note: To make both jacket style 128022015-US and trousers style 129-022015US, you will need: sizes 48, 50: 5yds
(4.5m); sizes 52, 54: 5yds (4.65m); size
56: 538yds (4.9m) of 60" (152.5cm) wide
fabric, and 118yds (1m) of 54" (137cm)
wide lining fabric.
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-12 from pattern sheet. Trace
pocket from piece 11 as a separate pattern
piece; mark welt joining line.
Vent stitching line on piece 3 is marked for
size 48. Remark stitching line for sizes 50 56
according to size lines.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); center back
seam, " (2cm); hem and sleeve hems,
158" (4cm); lining, 58" (1.5cm)

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Silk/linen blend:
1front, cut 2

94

burda style.com

2side piece, cut 2


3back, cut 2
4collar, cut 2 on fold
5collar stand, cut 2 on fold
6upper sleeve, cut 2
7under sleeve, cut 2
8pocket, cut 2
9upper left welt, cut 1
10left pocket, cut 1
11front facing, cut 2
11 pocket, cut 2
12back facing, cut 2
a) 2 welt strips (inside pockets), 638" (16cm)
long, and 1" (3.5cm) wide, including
seam allowances
b) 2 bias loops, 3" (8cm) long, and "
(2cm) wide, including seam allowances
Lining:
6 upper sleeve, cut 2, without vent allowance
7 under sleeve, cut 2, without vent allowance
8 pocket, cut 2, minus width of facing
10 left pocket, cut 1, to lining line
11 pocket, cut 2, to welt joining line
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse 1" (3cm) interfacing strips over
pocket markings. Fuse bias stay tape to
wrong side of armhole edges.

Construction
Sew center back seam as a French seam:
Lay the backs wrong sides together and
stitch a 316" (5mm) wide seam. Press seam
allowances open. Lay pieces right sides
together, with the seam lying exactly along
the fold. Stitch along marked seamline 58"
(1.5cm) from folded edge. Press seam
allowances to one side.
Stitch side pieces to back, leaving vents
open. Press seam allowances and vent
allowances (facing and underlap) toward
back. Press seam allowances at lengthwise
edges of facing and underlap to inside, turn
half in, and stitch. Topstitch center back at
top of vents at a angle, catching underlaps.
Stitch darts in fronts and press toward
center.
Left front welt pocket: With right sides
together, fold welt lengthwise, stitch across
ends. Turn welt right-side out. Stitch welt
right sides together with front along marked
joining line so welt points down. Lay fabric
pocket on front opposite welt and stitch 38"
(1cm) from welt joining seam. This seam
should be " (6mm) shorter at the ends
than welt joining seam. Slash between lines
of stitching and clip diagonally toward each
last stitch. Do not cut into pocket piece. Pull
pocket to inside, press welt over pocket
opening. Stitch pocket lining piece to seam
allowances of welt joining seam on inside.

Pull small fabric triangles at pocket opening


ends to inside and sew to pocket. Trim
pockets even and stitch together. Hand-stitch
welt ends in place.
Stitch sides to fronts. Press seam
allowances toward fronts. Stitch shoulder
seams. Press seam allowances open.
Patch pockets: Stitch pocket lining pieces
to pocket self-facings, leaving 2" (5cm)
open for turning. Lay facings and lining
outward and stitch to side and lower pocket
edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn pockets
right-side out and hand-stitch openings. Pin
pockets to fronts at placement line. Handstitch side and lower pocket edges with
invisible stitches.
Fold loops lengthwise, right sides together.
Stitch " (6mm) from folded edge. Trim
seam allowances. Turn loops right-side out
and press. Fold loops so that ends lies next to
each other and a point is formed in middle.
Press. Stitch across points of loops.
Construct front facing single welt
pockets: Mark a placement line for each welt
3
8" (1cm) from welt joining line (finished
welt width). With wrong sides together, fold
welt strips lengthwise and press. Baste
folded welt strips over each welt joining line
so folded edge of welt meets placement line
and open lengthwise edges lie between
pocket lines. Stitch welt along welt joining
line. Baste loops to front facings at center of
marked pocket piece joining line so loops
point up, finished loop length is 1" (3cm).
Loops will be caught when stitching pockets.
Stitch fabric pockets along pocket piece
joining line. Slash between lines of stitching
and clip diagonally toward each last stitch
but do not cut into welt strips or pocket
pieces. Lay welts into pocket openings, pull
pockets to inside. Stitch pocket lining pieces
to seam allowances of welt joining seams.
Pull small fabric triangles at pocket opening
ends to inside and stitch to welt and pocket
piece from seam end to seam end. Baste
pocket pieces on underside of front facings;
stitch from right side of garment. Sew small
buttons to front facings to match loops,
catching pocket linings.
Stitch facing shoulder seams. Press seam
allowances open. Press hem allowances to
inside at lower edges of back facings and
side lengthwise edges of front facings, turn
half in, and stitch.
Notched collar and front edges: With right
sides together, pin facings to jacket. Pin facing
to front along lapel fold line. Build a little extra
fullness into corners of lapels (facing). Stitch
on facings along lapel edges from marking,
along front edges and hem edge. Leave
facings lying right sides together with jacket.
Stitch collar stand pieces to collar pieces. Trim
seam allowances and press open. Topstitch

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project instructions

close to each side of seams. Stitch collar


pieces together along outer edges, building a
little extra fullness into top collar and
beginning and ending exactly on seamline of
joining edge. Turn collar right-side out. Lay
collar between jacket and facings. Stitch
undercollar to jacket neck edge, stitch top
collar to facings. Match markings on collar
stand with shoulder seams. Hemmed back
facing edges do not meet at neck edge. Press
seam allowances of collar joining seams open
in front, press seam allowances toward collar
from shoulder seams. Turn facings to inside.
Press edges. Pin collar joining seams together
exactly in front. Lay facings up and
understitch close to collar joining seam. Lay
facings down again. Turn in collar stand of
top collar in back between hemmed back
facing edges and sew to joining seam.
Turn back vent facings back again. Press
hem allowance to inside, hand-stitch in
place. Lay facings to inside again, handstitch to hem allowance. Hand-stitch front
facings to hem allowance.
Baste facings to armhole edges.
Stitch front sleeve seams. Lay vent facing
and hem allowance on upper sleeves outward
and miter corner. Trim mitering seam
allowances to 316" (5mm) and press open.
Stitch hem allowance of under sleeves right
sides together with lengthwise edge of
underlaps. Clip seam allowance of underlap
close to last stitch. Turn hem allowances and
vent facings to inside. Stitch back sleeve
seams to opening mark. Press seam
allowances toward upper sleeves. Sew on
small buttons as marked, catching underlaps.
Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.
Stitch sleeve lining seams. With wrong
sides together, place sleeve linings inside
sleeves. Turn in sleeve lining hem and sew
to sleeve hem allowance, laying extra length
down. Press. Turn in lining and hand-stitch
to sleeve attachment seams.
Stitch buttonholes in left front for large
buttons.

129-

022015-US
Mens Linen
Pants 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1qr9XW9

Mens sizes 48, 50, 52, 54, 56


on page 60
Finished side length: 42"-44" (107113cm)
Leg hem circumference: 15" (38cm)

Materials
Silk/linen blend, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes
48, 50: 2yds (2m); sizes 52, 54: 238yds
(2.1m); size 56: 258yds (2.3m)
Lining , for pockets, 16" 26" (40 65cm)
Interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 48, 50, 52: 6"
(14cm); sizes 54, 56: 7" (16cm) long; 2
flat buttons
Note: See style 128-022015-US for total
fabric required to make up both trousers
style 129-022015-US and jacket style 128022015-US
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Trace
hem facings as separate pattern pieces. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Stitching line at zipper opening is marked
for size 48. Remark stitching line for sizes
50 56 same distance from center front as
for size 48, noting opening length.
Buttonhole on piece 1 is marked for size 48.
Remark buttonhole for other sizes
according to size lines.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Silk/linen blend:
1front trouser, cut 2
1 front hem facing, cut 2
2left opening facing, cut 1
3right opening underlap piece, cut 2
4pocket, cut 2
5back trouser, cut 2
5 back hem facing, cut 2
6back flap, cut 2
7front facing, cut 2
8back facing, cut 1 on fold
a) 4 back pocket welt strips, 6 38" (16cm)
long, and 1" (3cm) wide, including seam
allowances
b) 2 back pockets, 6 38" (16cm) wide, and
718" (18cm) long, including seam
allowances
c) 7 belt carriers, total: 21" (55cm) long,
and 158" (4cm) wide, including seam
allowances
Lining:
4 pocket, cut 2
b) back pocket, cut 2, as above
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse interfacing on only one flap and
underlap piece each. Fuse 1" (3cm) strips

to back trouser pieces over pocket


markings.

Construction
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above marking by pressing with a
steam iron or under a damp cloth until they
are as long as on front trouser pieces.
Stitch back darts and press toward
center.
Right back welt pocket with flap: Mark
placement lines for welts each 316" (5mm)
(finished welt width) from welt joining lines.
Transfer these lines to right side with basting
thread. With wrong sides together, fold welt
strips lengthwise and press. Lay folded welt
strips on back trouser piece and pin so folded
edges meet placement lines. Stitch welts along
joining lines 316" (5mm) from folded edges.
Slash between lines of stitching and clip
diagonally toward each last stitch, but not
cutting into welts. Press welts into pocket
opening. Fold small fabric triangles at pocket
opening ends to inside and stitch to welts from
seam end to seam end. Stitch flap pieces right
sides together, leaving joining edge open. Turn
right-side out. Stitch buttonhole. Slip flap to
inside through pocket opening and stitch to
seam allowances close to upper welt joining
seam. Stitch pocket lining piece to lower welt
seam allowances, stitch fabric pocket to flap
and upper welt seam allowances. Trim pocket
pieces evenly and stitch together.
Construct welt pocket without flap on
left back trouser piece.
Working from wrong side, stitch pleats
in front trousers from upper edge to pleat
mark. Lay pleats in arrow direction and
press; baste at upper edge.
Stitch side seams, leaving pocket
openings free.
In-seam pockets: Pin pockets right sides
together with seam allowances at pocket
opening edges pocket lining pieces in
front, silk/linen pockets in back. Stitch
pockets along marked seamlines, stitch
pocket pieces close to seam above pocket
opening edges. Press pocket pieces forward
and stitch together. Baste upper pocket
edges. Stitch 38" (1cm) across pocket
opening ends.
Stitch inside leg seams. Stitch center
front seam below opening mark and center
back seam continuously. Stitch facing side
seams. Press seam allowance at lower
facing edge to inside.
With right sides together, fold belt carrier
strip lengthwise. Stitch 38" (1cm) from folded
edge. Turn right-side out. Topstitch close to
edges. Cut strip into 7 equal pieces. Baste one
belt carrier each on upper trousers edge at

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project instructions

front next to pleats, at back next to darts, at


side seams and also over center back seam.
Zipper opening and upper trousers edge:
With right sides together, stitch left facing
to left opening edge. Turn facing to inside,
press edge. Press seam allowance at right
opening edge (underlap) to inside 316"
(5mm) before center front. Baste zipper
under edge below marking, stitching close
to teeth and turning in top end of zipper
tape. Stitch both underlap pieces right sides
together, leaving straight joining edge
open. Trim seam allowances. Turn underlap
right-side out, press. Neaten joining edges
together. Pin underlap under right opening
edge from marked trouser upper edge.
Stitch opening edge to underlap close to
edge. Pin opening closed, matching centers.
Stitch loose zipper tape to left facing,
leaving trouser free. Turn left facing to right
side of trousers again, pin at upper edge.
Pin upper facing right sides together with
upper edge of trousers, left facing end lies
on facing of opening and belt carriers are
caught between. Stitch along upper
trousers edge. Lay upper facing up and
understitch as far as possible. Turn in facing
end at right opening edge. Turn upper
facing and facing at opening edge to inside.
Sew facing at right opening edge to
underlap joining seam. Baste facing to left
opening edge. Topstitch left opening edge
lengthwise from upper edge to 1" (3cm)
before end as marked, catching facing. Lay
opening closed again and topstitch to end,
catching underlap. Topstitch upper trousers
edge 1" (2.5cm) and 2" (5cm) from fold,
catching upper facing. Lay belt carriers
down, turn in ends over lower seam and
stitch. Stitch a buttonhole 58" (1.5cm) from
left opening edge and 1" (2.5cm) from
upper edge. Stitch buttonhole in underlap
as marked.
Stitch seams of hem facings. Stitch
facings right sides together with lower
trouser leg edges. Turn facings to inside.
Turn in inside edges and sew in place.

132-

022015-US
Keyhole Blouse

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52


on page 42
Finished back length: 28" (72cm)

Materials

Preparation
Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Pleat arrows on piece 21 are marked for
size 44. Remark pleat arrows for other sizes
accordingly.

Cutting
Blue pattern line, sheets C1-C2
Pattern pieces 21 to 23
Size 44 AAAAA
Size 46 ===
Size 48 CCC
Size 50 67 67
Size 52 EEEEE

Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown


and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Washed silk:
21front, cut 1 on fold
22back, cut 1 on fold
23sleeve, cut 2
a) front slit facing, 6" (17cm) long, and
2" (5cm) wide, including seam allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.
Fusible bias stay tape:
Fuse to front armhole and shoulder seam
edges.

Construction
NZ_BS1404_132T
Cutting layouts

Washed silk, 54" (137cm) wide


Sizes 44 48
Fold

Fold
Selv.

Fold

Selvedges

Sizes 50, 52
Fold

Selvedge

Selvedge
Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting
layoutright sides together on a double
layer; right side up on a single layer. Cut
right and left sleeves as opposites.

46, 48: 1yds (1.55cm); sizes 50, 52:


178yds (1.7m)
Interfacing
Notions: Grosgrain ribbon, 38" (1cm) wide:
2yds (1.8m); fusible bias stay tape
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Front slit: Mark slit at center front with


basting thread. Pin front facing right sides
together with front over slit mark so that
upper facing end meets marked neck edge;
seam allowance of neck edge extends.
Working from wrong side, stitch closely
around slit mark. Clip between stitching lines.
Turn facing to inside, press edges. Baste upper
facing edge. Topstitch close to slit edges.
Stitch bust darts, press down. Lay pleats
in neck edge in arrow direction and baste.
Stitch shoulder seams.
Pin grosgrain ribbon to neck edge so
that seam allowance of neck edge extends
and ribbon ends extend evenly at front slits,
for tie bands. Edgestitch ribbon to blouse.
Stitch side seams. Press hem allowance
to inside, turn in half width, and stitch.
Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem
allowances to inside, turn in edges, and stitch.
Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.

133-

022015-US
Blouse with
Pleated Neckline

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52


on page 40
Finished back length: 28" (72cm)

Washed silk, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 44,

96

burda style.com

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project instructions

Blue pattern line, sheets C1-C2


Pattern pieces 21 to 25
Size 44 AAAAA
Size 46 ===
Size 48 CCC
Size 50 67 67
Size 52 EEEEE

Cutting layout

NZ_BS1404_133T

Poplin, 60" (152.5cm) wide


Fold

Fold

Selvedges

Fold

Selvedges

Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting


layout, right sides together.

Materials
Cotton poplin, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
1yds (1.6m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 2 small
buttons
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 21-25 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Pleat arrows on piece 21 are marked for size
44. Remark pleat arrows for other sizes
accordingly.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:

Poplin:
21front, cut 1 on fold
22back, cut 1 on fold
23sleeve, cut 2
24collar, cut 4
25collar stand, cut 2 on fold
a) back slit binding strip, 9" (23cm) long, and
158" (4cm) wide, including seam allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Fuse bias stay tape to front armhole and
shoulder seam edges.

Construction
Clip slit opening in center back.
Spread cut edges open to a straight line.
Beginning 18" (3mm) from upper edge,
stitch to binding strip, tapering stitching
toward slit end. Lay binding over joining
seam toward slit, fold to a width of 38"
(1cm) and press. Lay binding over slit
edge to inside and baste to joining seam.
Work from blouse right side to stitch
binding close to edge. Lay binding at
right slit edge to inside, baste at neck
edge. Binding extends at left slit edge as
underlap. Pin slit closed, stitch 38" (1cm)
across bottom end, catching binding.
Stitch bust darts, press darts down. Lay
front neck edge pleats in arrow direction and
baste. Stitch shoulder seams and side seams.
Stitch two collar pieces each together
along outer edges. Trim seam allowances.
Turn collar right-side out and press. Stitch
one collar stand piece to neck edge,
matching center back to slit edge on right,
and to joining seam of binding on left. Press
seam allowances toward collar stand. Baste
open edges of collar together and baste to
upper edge of collar stand, matching front
collar edges with center front and back ends
with collar stand center back. Press seam
allowance at lower edge of other collar
stand to inside. Lay collar stand pieces right
sides together, catching collar in between.
Stitch along back and upper collar stand
edges. Trim seam allowances, trimming
corners diagonally. Turn collar stand. Baste
inside edge of collar stand under. Topstitch
collar stand close to all edges. Stitch two
buttonholes in right end of collar stand.
Press hem allowance to inside, turn half
in width, and stitch.
Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem
allowances to inside, turn in edges, and stitch.
Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.

134A-

022015-US
Leather-Accent
Pants 
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1nZ5sNJ

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52


on page 42
Finished side length, including waistband
43" (110cm)
Leg hem circumference: 22" (55cm)

Materials
Cotton stretch twill, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
sizes 44, 46: 1yds (1.45cm); sizes 48, 50:
2yds (2m); size 52: 2yds (2.2m)
Stretch nappa leather. To make up this style,
you will need one leather skin with a total
of approx. 5 6 sq. ft. (1 sq. ft. = approx.
30 30cm). Take the pattern pieces with
you when buying the leather.
Alternative: Stretch faux leather, 54"
(137cm) wide: yd (.55m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 44, 46: 5" (12cm);
sizes 48, 50, 52: 6" (15cm) long; 1 trouser
hook fastener; 1 flat inside button
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet. Lengthen
pieces 1 and 4 as indicated. Trace pocket from
piece 3 as a separate pattern piece to
placement line. Cut out all paper pieces.
Stitching line at zipper opening on piece 1
is marked for size 44. Remark stitching line
for sizes 46 52 same distance from center
front as for size 44, noting opening length.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch twill:
1front trouser, cut 2
3pocket, cut 2
4back trouser, cut 2
a) left underlap: sizes 44, 46: 5" (13cm);
sizes 48, 50, 52: 6" (15cm) long; and 4"
(11cm) wide, excluding seam allowances
Leather or imitation leather:
2front yoke, cut 2
3side hip yoke with cut-on pocket, cut 2
5back yoke, cut 2
6front waistband, cut 4

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project instructions

7back waistband, cut 4


Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above marking by pressing with a
steam iron or under a damp cloth until they
are as long as on front trouser pieces.
Stitch front yokes to front trousers.
Stitch back yokes to back trousers. Press
seam allowances toward yokes.
Hip yoke pockets: With right sides
together, stitch pockets to pocket front
trouser opening edges. Lay pockets up and
understitch close to seam. Turn pockets to
inside. Pin pocket opening edges to side hip
yokes at placement lines. Stitch pocket
pieces together on inside. Baste pockets to
underside of front trouser pieces, first
cutting off allowance of right pocket piece
along center front.
Stitch side seams and inside leg seams.
Press seam allowances open. Stitch center front
seam from opening mark to inside leg seam.
Zipper: Press self-facings to inside, stitch
on right along center front and stitch on left
3
16" (5mm) before center front. Stitch
zipper under left opening edge (underlap),
stitching close to teeth. Pin opening closed,
matching centers. Pin loose zipper tape to
right facing, leaving trouser free. Baste
facing. Topstitch opening from upper edge
to 1" (3cm) before end as marked. With
right sides together, fold underlap piece
lengthwise, stitch across bottom end. Turn
right-side out. Lay underlap under left
opening edge, pin to facing. Stitch facing to
underlap, close to zipper joining seam. Lay
opening closed again and topstitch to end,
catching underlap.
Stitch center back seam. Press seam
allowances open from upper edges to
beginning of curve.
Waistband: Stitch center back and side
seams of waistband. Press seam allowances
open. Stitch outer waistband to upper
trousers edge, leaving right waistband end
extending from center front and stitch left
waistband end to underlap of opening edge.
Press seam allowances toward waistband.
Lay inside waistband pieces right sides
together with stitched waistband pieces,
stitch upper edges together. Lay inside
waistband pieces up. Press seam allowances
open. Trim extending right waistband end to
3
8" (1cm) before center front. Attach
trousers hook to inside waistband spaced 38"
(1cm) from right front end. Lay inside
waistband to outside. Lay seam allowance at
inside waistband edge up at front waistband

98

burda style.com

ends. Stitch across waistband ends. Trim


seam allowances. Turn waistband right-side
out. Turn in inside waistband edge in front as
far as zipper, lay remainder of waistband
over joining seam not turned in. From
trouser right side, stitch inside waistband
edge in ditch of attachment seam. Sew
fastener bar to waistband to match hook.
Stitch buttonhole for inside button in left
waistband end.
Press hem allowances to inside and
hand-stitch in place.
Red pattern line, sheets C1-C2
Pattern pieces 1 to 7
Size 44 3333
Size 46 4444
Size 48 55
Size 50 6666
Size 52 7777

134B-

022015-US
Animal Print
Bootcut Pants

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52


on page 43
Finished side length, including waistband:
43" (110cm)
Leg hem circumference: 22" (55cm)

Materials
Cotton stretch twill (striped), 60"
(152.5cm) wide: sizes 44, 46: 1yds
(1.45cm); sizes 48, 50: 2yds (2m); size
52: 2yds (2.20m)
Plain cotton stretch twill, 60" (152.5cm)
wide: yd (.55m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 44, 46: 5" (12cm);
sizes 48, 50, 52: 6" (15cm) long; 1 trouser
hook fastener; 1 flat inside button

NZ_BS1404_134T
Cutting layouts

Striped stretch twill, 60" (152.5cm) wide


Sizes 44, 46
Fold

Selvedges

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for


general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Sizes 48, 50
Fold

Preparation
Trace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet. Trace
pocket from piece 3 as a separate pattern
piece to placement line. Cut out all paper
pieces. Stitching line at zipper opening on
piece 1 is marked for size 44. Remark
stitching line for sizes 46 52 same

Selvedges

Size 52
Fold

Fold

Plain stretch twill,


54" (137cm) wide
Sizes 44 52

Selvedges
Selvedges

Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together.

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project instructions

distance from center front as for size 44,


noting opening length.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Striped stretch twill:
1front trouser, cut 2
3pocket, cut 2
4back trouser, cut 2
a) left underlap: sizes 44, 46: 5" (13cm);
sizes 48, 50, 52: 6" (15cm) long; and 4"
(11cm) wide, excluding seam allowances
Plain stretch twill:
2front yoke, cut 2
3side hip yoke with cut-on pocket, cut 2
5back yoke, cut 2
6front waistband, cut 4
7back waistband, cut 4
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above marking by pressing with a
steam iron or under a damp cloth until they
are as long as on front trouser pieces.
Stitch front yokes to front trousers.
Stitch back yokes to back trousers. Press
seam allowances toward yokes.
Hip yoke pockets: With right sides
together, stitch pockets to pocket front
trouser opening edges. Lay pockets up and
understitch close to seam. Turn pockets to
inside. Pin pocket opening edges to side hip
yokes at placement lines. Stitch pocket
pieces together on inside. Baste pockets to
underside of front trouser pieces, first
cutting off allowance of right pocket piece
along center front.
Stitch side seams and inside leg seams.
Press seam allowances open. Stitch center
front seam from opening mark to inside
leg seam.
Zipper: Press self-facings to inside, stitch
on right along center front and stitch on left
3
16" (5mm) before center front. Stitch
zipper under left opening edge (underlap),
stitching close to teeth. Pin opening closed,
matching centers. Pin loose zipper tape to
right facing, leaving trouser free. Baste
facing. Topstitch opening from upper edge
to 1" (3cm) before end as marked. With
right sides together, fold underlap piece
lengthwise, stitch across bottom end. Turn
right-side out. Lay underlap under left
opening edge, pin to facing. Stitch facing to
underlap close to zipper joining seam. Lay
opening closed again and topstitch to end,
catching underlap.

Stitch center back seam. Press seam


allowances open from upper edges to
beginning of curve.
Waistband: Stitch center back and side
seams of waistband. Press seam allowances
open. Stitch outer waistband to upper
trousers edge, leaving right waistband end
extending from center front and stitch left
waistband end to underlap of opening
edge. Press seam allowances toward
waistband. Lay inside waistband pieces
right sides together with stitched waistband
pieces, stitch upper edges together. Lay
inside waistband pieces up. Press seam
allowances open. Trim extending right
waistband end to 38" (1cm) before center
front. Attach trousers hook to inside
waistband spaced 38" (1cm) from right
front end. Lay inside waistband to outside.
Lay seam allowance at inside waistband
edge up at front waistband ends. Stitch
across waistband ends. Trim seam
allowances. Turn waistband right-side out.
Turn in inside waistband edge in front as far
as zipper, lay remainder of waistband over
joining seam not turned in. From trouser
right, stitch inside waistband edge in ditch
of attachment seam. Sew fastener bar to
waistband to match hook. Stitch buttonhole
for inside button in left waistband end.
Press hem allowances to inside and
hand-stitch in place.

135A-

022015-US
Square Neckline
Top 
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52


on page 44
Finished back length: 24" (62cm)

Materials
Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 158yds
(1.40m) for all sizes
Notion: Twin stretch needle, size 2.5/75
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 21-25 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances


Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); hem, 1"
(3cm); sleeve hems, 1" (3cm)

Black pattern line, sheets A1-A2


Pattern pieces 21 to 25
Size 44 AAAAA
Size 46 ===
Size 48 CCC
Size 50 67 67
Size 52 EEEEE

NZ_BS1404_135T
Cutting layout

Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide


Fold

Fold

Selvedges

Fold

Selvedges

Fold the fabric as shown in the


cutting layout, right sides together.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch jersey:
21front, cut 1 on fold
22front band, cut 2 on fold
23back, cut 1 on fold
24back band, cut 2 on fold
25yoke with cut-on sleeve, cut 2
a) neck edge facing strip: size 44: 21"
(53cm); size 46: 21" (54cm); size 48:
22" (56cm); size 50: 22" (57cm); size
52: 23" (59cm) long; and 158" (4cm)
wide, including seam allowances

Construction
Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch
stitch, narrow zigzag or serging. To keep
hems flexible, stitch with a twin needle.

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project instructions

Stitch bust darts. Trim dart allowances to


8" (1cm), neaten edges together, and
press down.
Stitch center back yoke seam. Neaten
seam allowances together and press to
one side.
With wrong sides together, fold neck
edge facing strip lengthwise and press. Pin
folded facing strip to neck edge so that
folded edge lies on garment piece 38"
(1cm) past seamline. Stitch along seamline.
Trim seam allowances. Turn facing strip to
inside, press edge. Topstitch neck edge "
(6mm) from fold using twin needle.
Pin one back band from outside (right
sides facing), other band on inside (right
side facing wrong side) to back lower yoke
edge (seam number 4). Stitch exactly
between markings. Lay bands down and
press. Baste lower band edges together.
Stitch back band to back. Press seam
allowances down.
Pin front bands to front lower yoke
edges from outside and inside (seam
number 3). Pin upper band edges together
in between. Stitch. Lay bands down and
press. Baste lower band edges together.
Stitch front band to front. Press seam
allowances down.
Stitch side seams and sleeve seams. Press
seam allowances down.
Press top and sleeve hem allowances to
inside and stitch from right side " (2cm)
from fold using twin needle.

52: 8" (22cm) long; and 158" (4cm)


wide, including seam allowances
Fusible bias stay tape:
Fuse to neck and armhole edges and front
shoulder seam edges.

136-

Construction
Black pattern line, sheets B1-B2
Pattern pieces 21 to 24
Size 44 AAAAA
Size 46 ===
Size 48 CCC
Size 50 67 67
Size 52 EEEEE

CuttingNZ_BS1404_136T
layout
Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Selvedge

Fold

022015-US
Knotted Top 
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52


on page 45
Finished back length: 27" (68cm)
7
8-sleeves: 21" (53cm) long

Materials
Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide: size 44:
1yds (1.6m); sizes 46, 48: 178yds
(1.7m); sizes 50, 52: 2yds (1.8m)
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; twin stretch
needle, size 2.5/75
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.

100

burda style.com

Selvedges
Fold the fabric as shown in the
cutting layoutright sides together
on a double layer; right side up on a
single layer. Place the asymmetric
front pieces on the right side of the
fabric, printed sides up.

Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Stretch jersey:
21right front, cut 1
22left front, cut 2
23back, cut 1 on fold
24sleeve, cut 2
a) back neck edge facing strip: sizes 44, 46:
8" (20cm); sizes 48, 50: 838" (21cm); size

Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch


stitch, narrow zigzag or serging. To keep
hems flexible, stitch with a twin needle.
Stitch bust darts, press darts down. Clip
seam allowance at right front neck edge at
marking. Press front neck edges to inside,
turn in, and stitch " (6mm) from edge.
With right sides together, fold right front
on angled seamline so that seams number 1
meet. Stitch from seam number 1 to
marking. Trim seam allowances, clip at
marking. Unfold front. Press seam
allowances up, press to inside at slit.
Lay right front on left front with wrong
side facing right side. Pull lower piece of left
front from the inside out through slit on
right front. Lay lower left piece onto left
front and stitch seam edges right sides
together from seam number 2 to marking.
Clip seam allowances at marking. Lay lower
piece down again. Press seam allowances
up, lay to inside at slit.
With right sides together, stitch lower
left front to right front from bottom (seam
number 4) to corner (at right front
marking). Clip seam allowance into corner.
Press seam allowances toward right front.
Stitch lower edge of left front to seam
allowances of right horizontal seam on inside.
Stitch shoulder seams (seam number 3).
Seam allowances of back extend at neck
edge. Press seam allowances forward.
Back neck edge: With wrong sides
together, fold facing strip lengthwise and
press. Pin folded strip to back neck edge so
that folded edge lies on garment piece 38"
(1cm) past seamline. Stitch facing strip.
Trim seam allowances. Turn facing strip to
inside and stitch " (6mm) from fold.
Stitch side seams (seam number 5).
Stitch sleeve seams.
Set in sleeves.
Press top and sleeve hem allowances to
inside. From right side, stitch 1" (3cm)
from fold using twin needle.

SPRING 2015

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project instructions

137-

Seam and hem allowances

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1pQ2fkN

Cutting

022015-US
Wrap Top 

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52


on page 43
Finished back length: 28" (72cm)

Materials
Jersey, 45" (114.5cm) wide: sizes 44, 46:
2yds (2.05m); sizes 48, 50: 2yds
(2.2m); size 52: 258yds (2.25m)
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; twin stretch
needle, size 2.5/75
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for
general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.

Preparation
Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.

Seams and edges, 58" (1.5cm); hem, 1"


(3cm); sleeve hems, 58" (1.5cm)
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Jersey:
21front, cut 2
22back, cut 1 on fold
23sleeve, cut 2
a) tie belt, total: size 44: 93" (236cm); size
46: 94" (240cm); size 48: 97" (246cm);
size 50: 99" (252cm); size 52: 101"
(258cm) long ; and 4" (12cm), excluding
seam allowances
b) back neck edge facing strip: size 44: 9"
(24cm); sizes 46, 48: 10" (25cm); sizes 50,
52: 10" (26cm) long; and 158" (4cm)
wide, including seam allowances
Fusible bias stay tape:
Fuse to shoulder seam and back neck edges.

Construction
Back neck edge: With wrong sides
together, fold facing strip lengthwise and

press. Pin folded facing strip to neck edge


so that folded edge of strip lies on garment
piece 38" (1cm) past seamline. Stitch facing
strip. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing
strip to inside and stitch " from fold.
Gather shoulder edges of fronts between
asterisks. Stitch shoulder seams (seam number
1). Seam allowance of fronts extend at neck
edge. Trim seam allowances to " (6mm),
neaten edges together, and press toward back.
Stitch side seams. Trim seam allowances,
neaten edges together, and press toward back.
Press hem allowance to inside. From
right side, stitch hem 1" (2.5cm) from fold
using twin needle.
Press seam allowances on front and
front neck edges to inside. Turn in, and
stitch " (6mm) from fold.
Press hem allowances on sleeves and
sleeve side opening edges to inside, turn in,
and press.
Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, with
hemmed opening edges meet at side seams.
With right sides together, fold tie belt
lengthwise. Stitch edges together, leaving
opening for turning. Turn belt right-side
out. Sew up opening.

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SPRING 2015

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101

1/22/15 2:45 PM

sewing basics

RUCHED KIMONO TOP


108B-082014-US
SHORT SKIRT WITH
GODET 105A-082014-US

Fabric
Manipulation

Four construction techniques that also add detail


BY AMANDA KAUFMANN

Fabric manipulation is any technique that


reshapes and/or adds surface interest to
fabric. In fashion, these techniques can be
integral to a garments construction, or used
as embellishments. The most commonly
used manipulations come from four main
categories: pleats, gathers, smocking, and
quilting.Familiarity with these techniques
allows you to alter the shape of a garment or
simply add interesting details.

worked on the fabric before sewing the


garment, or included as part of the garments
sewing pattern.

KNIFE PLEATS: Usually made in uniform


sizes (commonly 1" [2.5 cm]), repeated
the length of a fabric and pressed in one

Knife pleats

direction, knife pleats are often used in


skirts to add fullness to the hem while
keeping it fitted at the waist.
BOX PLEATS: A box pleat is made when
two pleats are folded over to meet each
other in the middle. They are often found
in the center front of a skirt, to provide
some fullness to the hem and allow
fitting at the waist. These pleats can also
be placed in the lower center back seam
of a skirt as a kick pleat. A box pleat
sewn across its top and bottom may be
used on one side of a purse allowing the
purse to lie flat when empty and to have
extra room when filled.
Variations: Some variations of the box
pleat include the inverted box pleat and the
double box pleat. The inverted box pleat is
just the reverse of a box pleatthe two
pleats are folded to the inside of the project
instead of outside. A double box pleat
means that two folds of fabric are folded
towards the center on both sides. This
provides more fullness at the hem as well
as an interesting design choice.
ACCORDION PLEATS: These pleats are
so named because they resemble the
bellows of an accordion and are created
by folding the fabric back and forth
(like how one would make a paper fan).
Normally used in a skirt, with the folds of
the fabric running vertically, they provide
some fullness at the hem. For the folds
to permanently maintain their crease
down the fabric length, they need to be
professionally heat set.
TUCKS: Tucks are small pinches of fabric
sewn in repeated or free-form patterns.
Like knife pleats, they can vary in size
and also reduce the fabric size. For basic

Box pleats

PLEATS

Garment construction
The following manipulations need to be

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center
front
Accordion pleats

Tucks

ILLUSTRATIONS: MISSY SHEPLER

Pleating is essentially pressing and/or sewing


a fold of fabric to its side. The fold can be
anywhere from 18" (4 mm), often called a
pintuck, to several inches/centimeters. You
may also have pleats of varying size in a
garment as a style choice. For pleats to stay
in place, they are pressed in the desired
direction and sewn across the top and/or
bottom. The folds on some pleats may also be
sewn down along part or all of the length.

SPRING 2015

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sewing basics
tucks, the space between each tuck is
equal to the unfolded width of one tuck.
Variations: There are many variations in
tucks, including altering the space between
and the sizes of each tuck. For a close
tuck, the space between each tuck is half
the width of an unfolded tuck. Pintucks
are very narrow in size, generally 18" (4
mm) width folded. To create a smocked
effect, press tucks to stand upright, and
then hand-sew one tuck to another at
regular intervals. Another variation is tuck
and fold. This is created by pressing and
sewing the tucks in one direction, and
then sewing all or some of them back in
the opposite direction between the original
seams to create a wave effect. How
many times you sew them in the opposite
direction, and if you fold the entire tuck
back, or just half of it, adds creative
options to this technique.

Folding shapes

EMBELLISHMENT

The following pleating techniques can be


used on fabric trims and ribbons applied to
garments.

BOX PLEATS There are many ways to


fold a box pleat on decorative trim, so
experimenting with, and combining, the
following techniques is recommended.
The basic starting point is to create a
row of box pleats right next to each other
down the length of a trim, and then sew
them with one line of stitching down the
center. You can also take various sections
of the pleats, fold them in different
directions, and hand-sew them in place.
Variations: These are just a few of the
many options. A "pinch top" is when you
sew the top edge and the bottom edge of
an inverted box pleat together. To make
a diamond, pull the top layer of fabric at
the center top edge down to the bottom
center edge. Create squares by folding
all four corners of a box towards the
center. Fold the top right and bottom right

Mix and Match


Many of these techniques can be found
in pattern instructions, but if youre
adding them to a basic pattern, the
manipulation should be done before
cutting the garment or alter the pattern
to include the width needed for the
technique, as most will change the
fabric/garment size.

corners towards the center to create a


triangle. For a houndstooth effect, pull two
opposite corners of the box towards the
center and repeat down the length of trim.
FOLDING SHAPES: To get the same kind
of effects of folded box pleats, but with
more freedom of movement, cut out fabric
shapes and fold them. Use fabric that
does not ravel, or create a faced shape
by sewing two pieces of fabric together.
Start with a basic shape, like a square or
circle, and then play around with folding.
Individual folded shapes can then be
sewn into a circle, row, or design area on
the garment.

GATHERS

Gathering fabric is much like pleating,


except that the pinches of fabric are almost
immeasurably small and dont need to be
uniform in size. The easiest way to create
gathers is to sew long running stitches
1
4" (6 mm) from the cut edge of the fabric
leaving tails of thread at each end. Push the
edges of the fabric towards each other along
the thread to form gathers. The longer the
stitches are, the deeper the gathers will be.

GATHERING STITCHES are used to fit a larger


piece of fabric to a smaller one. Common
examples of gathers in garment construction
are dirndl skirts (gathers produce full skirts
fitted at the waist), the cap of set-in sleeves,
and shoulder and waist seams in blouses to
allow for bust fullness.

Which fabrics
for what?
The choice of fabric will affect the success
of fabric manipulation techniques, so
determine the fabric weight and body
related to the intended use. Lightweight,
soft fabrics are best for gathers, and
lightweight fabrics with body are best for
smocking. Use medium-weight fabrics
with body for pleats and quilting. Always
test the intended technique on scraps of
fabric and see how it works. If you need
more body, add a lightweight interfacing
to the fabric underside.

Shirring

Ruching

Gathering stitches

"

RUCHING: The stitches that ruche fabric


are the same as gathers, but their
application is different. Ruching can be
used for a gathered overlay or garment
inset and is often sewn to a backing
fabric to maintain its shape. Ruching
is created by gathering both sides of a
fabric section so the gathers run from
side to side. This is a common technique
used in heirloom sewing.

with ruching and gathering, shirring is


created using parallel rows of gathering
stitches, sometimes worked in shapes
(such as a spiral circle, grid, or free-form),
or zigzags. Shirring stitches can be sewn
with elastic thread in the bobbin to create
fabric with stretch. These shirred pieces
are commonly used for dress bodices,
especially in childrenswear.

SHIRRING: Often used interchangeably

CONTINUED ON PAGE 110

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machine master

Sewing
Challenging
Fabrics
Tools and techniques
to take control
BY CHRISTINE CARSON

There is a certain thrill when blindly diving into a sewing project, but advanced sewers sometimes opt to take on a
sewing challenge with their eyes wide open. Preparation, planning, and good information can make all the difference
in your project, particularly when dealing with challenging fabrics. An important part of preparing for any project is
being sure you have the best tools for each task. When it comes to sewing, your machines needle, thread, and
presser foot all have a direct impact on a projects final outcome, and are worth careful consideration. Lets take a
closer look at four challenging fabrics and what you need to sew them.

SATIN
This fabric is a great choice for evening-wear,
graduation gowns, bridesmaids dresses,
and more. Satins light-reflecting sheen
and drape make it popular to wear, but its
tight weave and slippery nature can make
it onerous to sew. For best results, be sure
to leave yourself plenty of time to adjust
and test your machines settings before
you begin sewing your satin project. Start
by shortening the stitch length and
installing a walking foot if you have one. A
walking foot will help minimize slippage
by feeding both layers of the fabric through
the machine at an even pace. Puckering
and thread pulls can be resolved by using
a new small microtex (sharp) needle and
fine lingerie thread. Finally, if your fabric

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is being pulled into the machine needle hole as


you sew, consider changing to a single-hole
throat plate and/or presser foot or adjusting
the needle to the far left positioning. Once you
are satisfied with the results on the test fabric,
make a note of all your adjustments (including

foot, needle, thread, etc.) and then begin sewing


your satin project.
Some satin fabrics also ravel very easily, so
to keep seams intact, consider binding the seam
allowance edges with a lining-weight fabric, or
trim and zigzag the edges to minimize the fraying.

Although the name could fool you, the satin stitch


on your machine isnt related to the fabric of
the same name. In fact, the two actually arent
very compatible. A satin stitch is a dense zigzag used for decorative purposes like
appliqu or other embellishment. This stitch requires the use of a satin stitch foot,
with a recessed underside, to allow the thread bulk to pass under it. Satin stitching
can be done using all-purpose thread, or any number of decorative options like rayon,
metallic, or acrylic threads. When satin stitching, use a stabilizer under the fabric to
prevent tunneling and puckering.

Satin stitch

SPRING 2015

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VELVET
Always luxurious, velvet is a woven fabric
created by slicing in half two pieces of fabric
that have been woven together, resulting in
two lengths of fabric with an even, dense pile.
While this pile makes velvet wonderfully tactile
to wear, it creates a great challenge even for
advanced sewers prepared to take their time.
Start the project right by using a fresh, universal needle in a size corresponding to the velvet
weight. The thread type will depend on the fiber
content of the velvet. A high-quality polyester
thread is a good option, unless you are sewing
silk velvet, in which case silk or mercerized
cotton thread is recommended. Use a presser
foot that will help feed the fabric evenly while
minimizing shifting as you sew. Depending
on the make and model of your machine, you
may have the option of using a velvet foot (like
Janome has for their 1600P series), although
you can achieve great results with a walking
or roller foot as well. Be sure to try the presser
foot on a scrap of the project velvet. If your
presser foot leaves marks on the velvet, try
reducing the presser foot pressure. If marks are
still left, try a different presser foot.

Sewing
hint
Be sure to sew a test seam on a
scrap of any difficult fabric. Once
you get the desired results, note the
machine settings, presser foot, and
thread used. This can streamline
the set-up process in the future.

DENIM
Many a beginner sewer has experienced the
frustration of attempting to sew denim without
the proper tools. This rugged and sometimes
thick fabric can bend and break sewing
machine needles, snap threads, and even
damage lightweight sewing machines. Using
denim-specific tools and techniques will
minimize any issues. Start by choosing a
denim needle. This is a strong, reinforced
needle with a modified tip, and its made to
handle the challenge of sewing through
multiple layers of dense fabric. Denim thread
is the most suitable thread to use because it
provides the durability needed for sewing thick
fabrics, and it comes in a variety of fashionable
denim colors including oranges and yellows for
topstitching. Denim thread options vary from

heavy duty 100% cotton to poly/cotton blends.


Take the time to choose the foot and settings
on your machine that are best suited for denim.
A good example is the BERNINA Jeans foot #8
for straight stitching on heavy fabrics. This foot
is paired with a straight-stitch plate, and
together they provide additional stability that
can solve many denim-sewing issues. Finally,
some sewers use a simple plastic tool called a
Hump Jumper or Jean-a-ma-jig. Both are
simple, inexpensive plastic tools that fit behind
the machine presser foot. They act as a shim to
keep the presser foot level, allowing you to sew
over flat-felled and other thick seams without
skipped or uneven stitches or bending the
needle.

SPANDEX
A slippery and stretchy knit, these two qualities
make spandex versatile and great to wear, but
challenging to sew. Start off with a jersey or
stretch needle. Both machine needles have a
medium ballpoint tip (instead of a sharp tip)
suitable for knits, and a stretch needle is
specially designed for extreme stretch fabric
like swimwear. The wearability of a spandex
garment depends on stretchable, comfortable
seams. To achieve this, many clothing
manufactures use texturized nylon (or
polyester) thread. While its not widely used
for conventional sewing machines (because the
stretchy thread can wreak havoc with your
machine tension mechanism), many sewers
hand-wind it onto the bobbin. Hand-winding
maintains the threads elasticity, and when
paired with a polyester upper thread, the
resulting seams are flexible with excellent
stretch recovery. Its ideal for use in serger
loopers as well. Wavy seams are another
common spandex sewing issue. Some
machines offer adjustable presser foot
pressure, and reducing the pressure while
sewing spandex will help alleviate rippling
seams. Another way to reduce wavy seams is
to use a walking foot (with this, upper and
lower feed dogs simultaneously feed the fabric
under the needle) to help alleviate stretching,
slipping, and puckering.

Sewing has always


been a part of
CHRISTINE CARSON's
life. She enjoys sewing
dresses and costumes,
but most of all, she loves
being inspired by fabrics and
notions. Christine lives in Toronto.

FROM THE EDITOR


Another way to sew
with spandex is to
use your serger for
all the internal
seams and only use
your regular sewing
machine for finishing
edges. When sewing
spandex with your
serger, if youre
working with a
pattern that requires
seam allowances to
be added, make sure
to measure the stitch
width to determine
how much seam
allowance to add to
the pattern. Youll
also want to barely
stretch the spandex
fabric while serging,
or adjust the
differential feed
mechanism to reduce
puckering or
stretching. Use the

conventional sewing
machine to hem
edges and zigzag
them in place, or
topstitch with a twin
needle to make your
garment look storebought!
meg healy,
online
editor

SPRING 2015

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giveaway
KEEP YOUR
GARMENTS
PROPERLY PRESSED
WITH THIS LAURASTAR
STEAM GENERATOR MODEL
LIFT ($749 VALUE).
VALUE) FOR YOUR
CHANCE TO WIN, GO TO
BURDASTYLE.COM/BLOG/
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preview

Gelerie S., winner of


the Inspira Studio by
ClosetMaid Thread Cabinet
giveaway from our last issue,
shares her best tip for
handling fine fabrics:
With silk or other fabrics that
tend to unravel or fray easily,
after tracing a pattern piece
outline on my fabric, I then place
a line of Fray Check directly onto
the outline before I cut. Works
every time!
MORE GREAT BURDASTYLE
MEMBER TIPS FOR WORKING
WITH TRICKY FABRICS:
Instead of hemming or using bias tape, use
satin rattail cord or fishing line to give more
shape on the hem edge of airy light fabric,
such as organza, tulle, and net. Dessy D.

Have a tip to share? Become a


member at BurdaStyle.com to
share tips, ideas, and upload
your project photos.

SUMMER 2015

WERE HAPPY TO ANNOUNCE AN EXCITING SURPRISE COMING


WITH THE NEXT ISSUE OF BURDASTYLE! STARTING WITH THE
COMING
SUMMER 2015 ISSUE, YOULL BE GETTING THE PHYSICAL
UP NEXT
PATTERNS FOR EVERY SINGLE BURDASTYLE GARMENT IN THE
ISSUE! THAT MEANS UPWARDS OF 50 FULL-SIZE PATTERNS!
SO STAY TUNED FOR MORE OF WHAT YOU LOVE (SEWING PATTERNS!)
PLUS SOME NEW PAGES, EXTRA GIVEAWAYS, AND EVEN MORE FROM
YOUR FELLOW BURDASTYLE MEMBERS.
THE NEXT BURDASTYLE US WILL BE AVAILABLE IN JULY, 2015
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sew this!

Step-by-Step
Project

Recommended fabric: Blouse fabrics

BS1402_104WS_T
SHOPPING
LIST:

Nhschule
Piqu, 54"BurdaStyle
(137 cm) wide: sizes
34, 36: 78 yd (.8 m); sizes 38, 40,
42: 1 yd (.9 m)
Interfacing
NOTIONS:
1 invisible zipper, 16" (40 cm)
long, and special presser foot
20" (.5 m) flat bias tape, 1 58"
(4 cm) wide

Princess Seam
Boatneck Top

Sewing thread
Pattern paper
Pencil
Scissors
Measuring tape/ruler

This off-the-shoulder neckline enhances the dcollet


and highlights the shoulders
to create one stunning
springtime style!

THE TOP PATTERN PIECES


are shaded pink on the pattern sheet to make them easy to find.
Lay pattern paper over the pattern insert and pin it in place. Trace all
pattern pieces in the desired size, and transfer all markings. It will be
easier to cut out the fabric pieces if you copy pieces 5 and 6 twice
each.
SEWING HINT: To find your correct size, measure your bust: size 34 =
311 2" (80 cm); size 36 = 33" (84 cm); size 38 = 34 34" (88 cm); size
40 = 36 14" (92 cm); size 42 = 37 34" (96 cm).
Size
Size
Size
Size
Size

34
36
38
40
42

22
33
44
5
66

Extra pattern, shaded pink, sheets A1


and A2: pattern pieces 1 to 8

Straight pins
Tailors chalk
Hand-sewing needles

THE CUTTING LAYOUT


...shows how pattern pieces are to
be laid on the fabric and how to pin
them in place.
1 Center front
2 Side front
3 Center back
4 Side back
5 Sleeve front
6 Sleeve back
7 Front facing
8 Back facing

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BS_SewThis_Spr15.indd 107

Piqu, 54 (137 cm) wide


Sizes 34 42
Fold

Selvedges

BS1402_104WS_Z
Nhschule
BurdaStyle
2015 burda style.com

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sew this!

Right side of fabric

Wrong side of fabric

CUTTING PIQU, ALL SIZES

INTERFACING

TRANSFER MARKINGS TO
FABRIC

CENTER BACK SEAM

FRONT AND BACK SECTION


SEAMS

RIGHT SIDE SEAM

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together.


Lay pattern pieces 1 to 8 on the
folded fabric, with pieces 1, 7, and 8
on the fold. Pin in place. Cut out fabric
pieces.

Place the center back pieces


right sides together. Pin the
center back edges together and
stitch the seam. Press the seam open
and neaten the edges of the seam
allowances.

108

Interfacing

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BS_SewThis_Spr15.indd 108

Fold the interfacing in half, with


the adhesive side facing in. Lay
pieces 7 and 8 on it and pin in
place. Cut out interfacing pieces. Fuse
each interfacing piece to the wrong
side of the corresponding fabric piece.

Place the side front pieces on


the center front piece, right
sides together. Pin the section
seams; stitch. Place the side back
pieces to the center back piece, right
sides together, and pin the section
seams. Stitch. Press all seams open
and neaten the edges of the seam
allowances.

Use tailor's chalk or tracing


wheel to transfer markings to
the wrong side of the cut pattern
pieces.

Place the front unit on the back


unit, right sides together. Pin the
right side edges together and
stitch the right seam. Press the seam
open and neaten the edges of the
seam allowances.

SPRING 2015

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sew this!
INVISIBLE ZIPPER,
FIRST HALF

INVISIBLE ZIPPER,
SECOND HALF

Close the zipper. Lay the second


zipper tape on the back left
side edge and pin the lower end
of the zipper tape in place. Open the
zipper. Stitch the second zipper half
in place, from the lower edge to the
marked end of the opening (with the
needle to the right of the teeth). Close
the zipper.

Place the front on the back,


right sides together. Pin the
side edges together, above the
marking, turning the zipper end out
of the way. Stitch the seam from the
armhole edge to as close to the end of
the zipper as possible. Press the seam
open and neaten the edges of the seam
allowances, including those on the
zipper slit edges. Neaten the hem edge.
Press the hem allowance to the inside
and hand-stitch in place. Sew the hem
allowance to the zipper tapes.

SLEEVES

ARMHOLES

NECK EDGES

11

12

Lay the open zipper right


sides down on the front left
side edge, 14" (6 mm) from the
opening edge. The zipper teeth begin
at the marked hem line. Using the
special presser foot (with needle to
the left of the teeth), stitch the zipper
in place from the lower edge to the
marked opening end.
PHOTOS: U2/ULI GLASEMANN. ILLUSTRATIONS: ELKE TREIER-SCHFER AND MISSY SHEPLER. EDITING: HEIDEMARIE TENGLER.

LEFT SIDE SEAM,


HEM

10

With right sides together,


lay the sleeve fronts on
the sleeve backs. Stitch
the shoulder edges together (seam
number 6).Press seams open. For
each sleeve, lay two sleeve units
together, right sides facing. Stitch the
long edges together. Trim the seam
allowances. Turn the sleeves rightside out and press. Lay each sleeve
on the front (seam number 4) and the
back (seam number 5), right sides
together, and baste in place.

Fold the bias tape in half


lengthwise and press. Pin
the folded bias tape to each
armhole edge so that the open edges
lie 14" (6 mm) from the fabric edge.
The ends overlap the sleeves 1 58" (4
cm). Working from the wrong side,
stitch along the marked armhole edge,
catching the sleeve and the bias tape.
Trim the seam allowances. Turn the bias
tape and seam allowances to the inside
and press. Below each sleeve, topstitch
1
4" (6 mm) from the armhole edge.

Pin the front facing to the


front neck edge and the
back facing to the back neck
edge, right sides together. The seam
allowances on the facing side edges
extend past the sleeve attachment
seams. Stitch along the marked neck
edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn each
facing up. Press seam allowances toward
the facing then understitch. Turn the
narrow facing edges under. Turn facings
to inside and press. Hand-stitch the
facings to the sleeve attachment seams.
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sewing basics
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 103

Ruffles

RUFFLES: Gathering stitches down a


long strip of fabric produces ruffles. If
the stitches are sewn along the long
edge of the fabric, it creates a frill
that can be sewn onto a garment, like
the bottom edge of a skirt. When the
gathering stitch is sewn down the middle,
it creates a double ruffle. Ruffles can be
applied anywherea neckline, sleeve
edge, waistline, or decoratively around a
garment hem. If the strip of fabric is cut
on the bias, it does not need to have an
edge finish. Bias-cut ruffles also form the
base of fabric rosettes.

SMOCKING

There are two main categories of smocking:


English and American. English smocking is
decorative, provides stretch, and is often
used in the bodices of childrens clothing.
American smocking is also decorative, but it
is thicker and more robust, and more formal
in aesthetic.

ENGLISH SMOCKING is a combination of


shirring fabric and embroidery. The first
step is to create even rows of gathering
stitches and shirr the fabric. Then
hand-sew the top edges of two adjacent

English smocking

gathers (often referred to as pleats)


together with a small knot. Sew the same
two gathers together further down from
the first knot (about 1" [2.5 cm]). Repeat
sewing two adjacent gathers together with
evenly spaced intervals until youve worked
the whole fabric. Then remove the gathering
stitches. Popular stitching patterns include
honeycomb, cable, and trellis. English
smocking can reduce the original length of
fabric to 13 of its original size.
AMERICAN SMOCKING creates puffed-up
shapes on the right side of the fabric by
connecting points of a grid in a pattern
on the wrong side. Its easiest to work
this technique by marking the grid lines
on the back first. What creates the
shapes on the right side is a combination
of pulling the thread tightly when
connecting some dots and leaving the
thread loose when connecting other dots.
Possible shape patterns include lattice,
waves, arrows, grid (creates rectangles),
and boxes. How much the fabric reduces
in size depends on what type of pattern
you choose.

Hand-tied quilting

Trapunto

Cut-surface

QUILTING

Quilting is joining multiple layers of fabric


and filler together. Often flannel or batting is
sandwiched between the fabric layers. The
stitching provides the design element. The
designs sewn can be motifs, free-form patterns,
grids, channels, or a combination of the above.

HAND-TIED: Hand-tied quilting is an


alternative to sewing rows of stitches.
After sandwiching the fabrics, use
embroidery thread or yarn to go through
all layers and tie a secure knot on the top
side of the fabric. Space these knots in a
pattern, or randomly.
TRAPUNTO: Trapunto is hand-stuffing
shapes sewn into two layers of fabric.
The shapes can be isolated, or cover
the whole fabric in a pattern. Sew the

shapes into the fabric first. Then on the


backside of the piece, cut a tiny hole into
the fabric and stuff. After stuffing the
shape, hand-sew the hole closed. Each
shape is individually stuffed.
CUT-SURFACE: One can use this
technique as an alternative to sewing
decorative stitches as well as to add
more texture to the garment. To do, sew
a shape through all three layers (e.g. a
circle) and a line down its center. Then
snip the top layer of fabric and the
batting around the border stitching inside
the shape, stopping at the middle seam.
The top layer and batting are removed,
revealing the backing.

FROM THE EDITOR


You can also get your fabric professionally pleated. There are two primary
methods used: Machine Pleating, where
fabric is fed into a machine and folded,
and Pattern Pleating, where fabric is placed
between two pleated cardboard molds and set
with steam. alana walsh, assistant editor

American smocking

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top 10

WE ASKED,
YOU ANSWERED!
Whats your best
fabric care tip?
1. Marseille soap

[a natural vegetable
oil soap] has a
neutral scent and
washes out any
stain! Just use the soap and
wash the garment by hand. On
heavy stains, wash it by hand
first, leave some soap on, then
machine wash.
Abigail G., Antwerp, Belgium

5. I use the

original blue
Dawn dish
soap to get

out tomato
sauce or grease stains.
Just dab it on the stain,
rub with cold water, and
the stain comes out every time!
Bethany A., Cleveland, Ohio

6. Washing delicate
fabrics, costume
fabric, sequined
fabric, and special
lingerie fabrics in

zipped lingerie bags helps


keep fabric or garments from
being ruined, and also prevents

pre-wash my
cottons and sturdy
knits intentionally in
warm to hot water,
depending on the weight/
texture/color of the fabric. This
way, it prevents accidental
shrinkage later, should I make a
laundry mistake!

ILLUSTRATION: SHEILA LAM

new fabrics, always


use white vinegar
or a color catcher
sheet to prevent the
fabric colors from running.
Ivory H., Washington, DC

it saves money and


the fibers in my
fabric feel better to the touch.
I use Borax, washing soda,
baking soda, OxiClean, FelsNaptha, and Purex crystals to
make my detergent.
Erica J., Baltimore, Maryland

8. For hand-

washables, including
hand-knits, I use

Lisa J., Richmond, California

9. Before pressing

3. I freeze fabric in

4. When washing

7. I have started

making my own
detergent because

detergent compartment of my
front-loading washer. I use the
hand-wash cycle and then do
a slow spin only. This way I can
avoid felting wools, but do not
have to deal with wringing water
out of heavy, wet wool.

Mary M., San Diego, California

Jasmine B., Toronto, Canada

Virginia G., Elk Grove, California

unscented baby
shampoo in the

2. I always

my freezer overnight.
This strengthens
synthetic fabrics to
prevent snags, runs,
or pilling. If using vintage fabric,
freezing lifts out unpleasant
odors, and kills any tag-along
critters.

unraveling when you dont


have a serger or time to zigzag
edges.

MAKE IT!
122-022015-US
Tulle Wedding Gown
on page 51

a new fabric, I
always pre-test a
scrap using a press
cloth to determine
the correct iron heat setting. Silk
organza works well as a press
cloth because its strong, thin,
and somewhat transparent,
but I also keep a square of thin
cotton handy as well.
Karen N., Seattle, Washington

10. I carry baby


wipes around with

me in my purse for
any accidental spills
so I can catch them
before they set in.
Lee Ann H., Houston, Texas

Want to share your insider tip? For our next issue, we want to know: What is your top
embellishment tip? Visit burdastyle.com/blog/top-10-embellishment-techniques and fill us in!
SPRING 2015

BS_Top10_Spr15.indd 111

burda style.com

111

1/26/15 10:34 AM

inspiration

M A K E A STA
T EM EN T
Make new from old

Re-fashion
Keep your sense
of style alive by
repurposing your
favorite printed
T-shirt

Think of your favorite old


T-shirt as a source of fabric
for creating some ever-so-cute
projects. Simply trace your desired
outline onto the T-shirt. Cut a matching
backing piece from a fabric with more
structure and durability. With right
sides together, sew the outer edges of
the two fabrics together, then turn. For
a market bag, join the inside top of the
handle. To make a bib, sew the entire
inner hole, then add hook-and-loop
tape at the back neck.

COMIC CH
IC

FROM THE EDITOR


I sewed this into a long, narrow bag to hold my post-yoga fuel a
water bottle and energy bar. alicyn stensaas, emedia production
coordinator
112

burda style.com

BS_Inspiration_Spr15.indd 112

PHOTOS: JAN SCHMIEDEL. PRODUCTION: DIANE SCHROLL.

Y LE
COLLEGE ST

SPRING 2015

1/16/15 6:37 PM

Favorite
Bloggers

House of Pinheiro
houseofpinheiro.
blogspot.com

THE VOTES ARE IN, AND YOUVE LET US KNOW


YOUR 50 FAVORITE BLOGGERS!

Top 50 Blogs for


Sewing Enthusiasts
is a free download, now
available on burdastyle.com.
See the best inspiration and
instruction on the web, as
chosen by stitchers like you!

OonaBaloona
oonaballoona.com

DIY Style
Lifestyle
Vintage
Beginner-friendly

DOWNLOAD THE TOP 50 BEST BLOGS


FOR SEWING ENTHUSIASTS AT:

burdastyle.com/freedownloads
BurdaStyle Top Bloggers ad.indd 3

1/20/15 5:15 PM

My Color. My Look.
My Thread.

Featuring Dual Duty XPAll Purpose Thread

makeitcoats.com

Coats & Clark_My Thread ad.indd 4

1/20/15 5:25 PM

Pattern Design Courtesy of Angela Wolf. www.angelawolfpatterns.com 14-038


2014 Coats & Clark. All rights reserved. Coats & Clark is a registered trademark.

Pattern sheets A-1, A-2

SPRING
WINTER2015
2015

PRINCESS SEAM BOATNECK TOP 104-022015-US


project photo page 30
instructions page 69

LACE DRESS WITH FAUX TOP 109A-022015-US


project photo page 49
instructions page 78

TULLE WEDDING GOWN 122-022015-US


project photo page 51
instructions page 92

SQUARE NECKLINE TOP 135A-022015-US


project photo page 44
instructions page 99

SKINNY PANTS WITH HIP YOKE 110A-022015-US


project photo page 59
instructions page 81

How to work with this pattern PDF


Determine which pattern sheet
you need
For the garments shown above, two pattern sheets
require assembly: A-1 and A-2. Each pattern sheet
will be made up of nine 8.5" 11" pieces of paper
taped together. Follow the instructions below to
piece together the appropriate PDF pages.

Print the PDF


1. Open this pattern sheet PDF pages using Adobe Acrobat Reader X or higher. This is a free download available at http://www.adobe.com/products/reader.html
2. When preparing to print the PDF, make sure that
you are printing it at Actual Size (100%) and that
there is no scaling. Check the settings for page
scaling (should be None) and check the preview to
make sure that you will be printing at full size. Make
sure that the box labeled Auto-Rotate and Center
1

burda style.com

SPRING 2015

is unchecked. (These instructions apply specifically


to Adobe Reader. If youre using another PDF reader,
check for similar settings.)
3. To ensure that the pattern prints at the correct
scale, start by printing only this first page (Page 1),
and check the size of the 1" ruler image. The
ruler image should
measure 1" 1" (2.5
1"
cm 2.5 cm).
4. Print the remaining
pattern sheet PDF
Ruler Image
pages once youve
confirmed the size of
the ruler image.

1"

2. Begin assembling each pattern sheet by lining


up the page edges and taping them together. Use
the illustrated guide on the following page (Page 2)
to match each piece properly.

Find and trace your pieces


1. In the top left corner of the fully assembled
pattern sheet, youll see a box that has instructions
for finding each of the pattern pieces you need.
2. Trace the pattern pieces onto pattern paper and
copy all markings and seam numbers onto your
new paper pattern pieces. Check them against the
drawings in the instructions to ensure they were
copied correctly.

Please use this scale to verify


Note: Burda patterns available on these
Assemble the PDF
that
you are
printing
magazine pattern sheets include seam and hem
1. Cut off or fold back the dotted
margin
aroundat 100%
each page.

allowances.

F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use only.

Pattern sheets A-1, A-2

SPRING 2015

burda style.com

SPRING 2015

F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use only.

A-1 Page 1 of 9

A-1 Page 2 of 9

A-1 Page 3 of 9

A-1 Page 4 of 9

A-1 Page 5 of 9

A-1 Page 6 of 9

A-1 Page 7 of 9

A-1 Page 8 of 9

A-1 Page 9 of 9

A-2 Page 1 of 9

A-2 Page 2 of 9

A-2 Page 3 of 9

A-2 Page 4 of 9

A-2 Page 5 of 9

A-2 Page 6 of 9

A-2 Page 7 of 9

A-2 Page 8 of 9

A-2 Page 9 of 9

Pattern sheets B-1, B-2

SPRING 2015

TEA DRESS 101-022015-US


project photo page 28
instructions page 67

BOUCL JACKET 102-022015-US


project photo page 32
instructions page 68

FLORAL SKINNY JEANS 115.1-022015-US


project photo page 36
instructions page 87

KNOTTED TOP 136-022015-US


project photo page 45
instructions page 100

KNIT V-NECK PULLOVER 109.1-022015-US


project photo page 59
instructions page 78

How to work with this pattern PDF


Determine which pattern sheet
you need
For the garments shown above, two pattern sheets
require assembly: B-1 and B-2. Each pattern sheet
will be made up of nine 8.5" 11" pieces of paper
taped together. Follow the instructions below to
piece together the appropriate PDF pages.

Print the PDF


1. Open this pattern sheet PDF pages using Adobe Acrobat Reader X or higher. This is a free download available at http://www.adobe.com/products/reader.html
2. When preparing to print the PDF, make sure that
you are printing it at Actual Size (100%) and that
there is no scaling. Check the settings for page
scaling (should be None) and check the preview to
make sure that you will be printing at full size. Make
sure that the box labeled Auto-Rotate and Center
1

burda style.com

SPRING 2015

is unchecked. (These instructions apply specifically


to Adobe Reader. If youre using another PDF reader,
check for similar settings.)
3. To ensure that the pattern prints at the correct
scale, start by printing only this first page (Page 1),
and check the size of the 1" ruler image. The
ruler image should
measure 1" 1" (2.5
1"
cm 2.5 cm).
4. Print the remaining
pattern sheet PDF
Ruler Image
pages once youve
confirmed the size of
the ruler image.

1"

2. Begin assembling each pattern sheet by lining


up the page edges and taping them together. Use
the illustrated guide on the following page (Page 2)
to match each piece properly.

Find and trace your pieces


1. In the top left corner of the fully assembled
pattern sheet, youll see a box that has instructions
for finding each of the pattern pieces you need.
2. Trace the pattern pieces onto pattern paper and
copy all markings and seam numbers onto your
new paper pattern pieces. Check them against the
drawings in the instructions to ensure they were
copied correctly.

Please use this scale to verify


Note: Burda patterns available on these
Assemble the PDF
that
you are
printing
magazine pattern sheets include seam and hem
1. Cut off or fold back the dotted
margin
aroundat 100%
each page.

allowances.

F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use only.

Pattern sheets B-1, B-2

SPRING 2015

burda style.com

SPRING 2015

F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use only.

B-1 Page 1 of 9

B-1 Page 2 of 9

B-1 Page 3 of 9

B-1 Page 4 of 9

B-1 Page 5 of 9

B-1 Page 6 of 9

B-1 Page 7 of 9

B-1 Page 8 of 9

B-1 Page 9 of 9

B-2 Page 1 of 9

B-2 Page 2 of 9

B-2 Page 3 of 9

B-2 Page 4 of 9

B-2 Page 5 of 9

B-2 Page 6 of 9

B-2 Page 7 of 9

B-2 Page 8 of 9

B-2 Page 9 of 9

Pattern sheets C-1, C-2

SPRING 2015

PENCIL SKIRT WITH ZIP FLY 109-022015-US


project photo page 26
instructions page 77

CUMBERBUND SKIRT 114-022015-US


project photo page 60
instructions page 85

WRAP BLOUSE 115A-022015-US


project photo page 61
instructions page 88

KEYHOLE BLOUSE 132-022015-US


project photo page 42
instructions page 96

BLOUSE WITH PLEATED NECKLINE 133-022015-US


project photo page 40
instructions page 96

ANIMAL PRINT BOOTCUT PANTS 134B-022015-US


project photo page 43
instructions page 98

How to work with this pattern PDF


Determine which pattern sheet
you need
For the garments shown above, two pattern sheets
require assembly: C-1 and C-2. Each pattern sheet
will be made up of nine 8.5" 11" pieces of paper
taped together. Follow the instructions below to
piece together the appropriate PDF pages.

Print the PDF


1. Open this pattern sheet PDF pages using Adobe Acrobat Reader X or higher. This is a free download available at http://www.adobe.com/products/reader.html
2. When preparing to print the PDF, make sure that
you are printing it at Actual Size (100%) and that
there is no scaling. Check the settings for page
scaling (should be None) and check the preview to
make sure that you will be printing at full size. Make
sure that the box labeled Auto-Rotate and Center
1

burda style.com

SPRING 2015

is unchecked. (These instructions apply specifically


to Adobe Reader. If youre using another PDF reader,
check for similar settings.)
3. To ensure that the pattern prints at the correct
scale, start by printing only this first page (Page 1),
and check the size of the 1" ruler image. The
ruler image should
measure 1" 1" (2.5
1"
cm 2.5 cm).
4. Print the remaining
pattern sheet PDF
Ruler Image
pages once youve
confirmed the size of
the ruler image.

1"

2. Begin assembling each pattern sheet by lining


up the page edges and taping them together. Use
the illustrated guide on the following page (Page 2)
to match each piece properly.

Find and trace your pieces


1. In the top left corner of the fully assembled
pattern sheet, youll see a box that has instructions
for finding each of the pattern pieces you need.
2. Trace the pattern pieces onto pattern paper and
copy all markings and seam numbers onto your
new paper pattern pieces. Check them against the
drawings in the instructions to ensure they were
copied correctly.

Please use this scale to verify


Note: Burda patterns available on these
Assemble the PDF
that
you are
printing
magazine pattern sheets include seam and hem
1. Cut off or fold back the dotted
margin
aroundat 100%
each page.

allowances.

F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use only.

Pattern sheets C-1, C-2

SPRING 2015

burda style.com

SPRING 2015

F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use only.

C-1 Page 1 of 9

C-1 Page 2 of 9

C-1 Page 3 of 9

C-1 Page 4 of 9

C-1 Page 5 of 9

C-1 Page 6 of 9

C-1 Page 7 of 9

C-1 Page 8 of 9

C-1 Page 9 of 9

C-2 Page 1 of 9

C-2 Page 2 of 9

C-2 Page 3 of 9

C-2 Page 4 of 9

C-2 Page 5 of 9

C-2 Page 6 of 9

C-2 Page 7 of 9

C-2 Page 8 of 9

C-2 Page 9 of 9

Pattern sheets D-1, D-2

SPRING 2015

A-LINE SKIRT WITH PLEATED YOKE 106-022015-US


project photo page 27
instructions page 71

SLIM LADIES JACKET 107-022015-US


project photo page 26
instructions page 73

WORKOUT PANTS 112-022015-US


project photo page 35
instructions page 83

BUSTIER TOP WEDDING DRESS 116B-022015-US


project photo page 50
instructions page 90

How to work with this pattern PDF


Determine which pattern sheet
you need
For the garments shown above, two pattern sheets
require assembly: D-1 and D-2. Each pattern sheet
will be made up of nine 8.5" 11" pieces of paper
taped together. Follow the instructions below to
piece together the appropriate PDF pages.

Print the PDF


1. Open this pattern sheet PDF pages using Adobe Acrobat Reader X or higher. This is a free download available at http://www.adobe.com/products/reader.html
2. When preparing to print the PDF, make sure that
you are printing it at Actual Size (100%) and that
there is no scaling. Check the settings for page
scaling (should be None) and check the preview to
make sure that you will be printing at full size. Make
sure that the box labeled Auto-Rotate and Center
1

burda style.com

SPRING 2015

is unchecked. (These instructions apply specifically


to Adobe Reader. If youre using another PDF reader,
check for similar settings.)
3. To ensure that the pattern prints at the correct
scale, start by printing only this first page (Page 1),
and check the size of the 1" ruler image. The
ruler image should
measure 1" 1" (2.5
1"
cm 2.5 cm).
4. Print the remaining
pattern sheet PDF
Ruler Image
pages once youve
confirmed the size of
the ruler image.

1"

2. Begin assembling each pattern sheet by lining


up the page edges and taping them together. Use
the illustrated guide on the following page (Page 2)
to match each piece properly.

Find and trace your pieces


1. In the top left corner of the fully assembled
pattern sheet, youll see a box that has instructions
for finding each of the pattern pieces you need.
2. Trace the pattern pieces onto pattern paper and
copy all markings and seam numbers onto your
new paper pattern pieces. Check them against the
drawings in the instructions to ensure they were
copied correctly.

Please use this scale to verify


Note: Burda patterns available on these
Assemble the PDF
that
you are
printing
magazine pattern sheets include seam and hem
1. Cut off or fold back the dotted
margin
aroundat 100%
each page.

allowances.

F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use only.

Pattern sheets D-1, D-2

SPRING 2015

burda style.com

SPRING 2015

F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use only.

D-1 Page 1 of 9

D-1 Page 2 of 9

D-1 Page 3 of 9

D-1 Page 4 of 9

D-1 Page 5 of 9

D-1 Page 6 of 9

D-1 Page 7 of 9

D-1 Page 8 of 9

D-1 Page 9 of 9

D-2 Page 1 of 9

D-2 Page 2 of 9

D-2 Page 3 of 9

D-2 Page 4 of 9

D-2 Page 5 of 9

D-2 Page 6 of 9

D-2 Page 7 of 9

D-2 Page 8 of 9

D-2 Page 9 of 9

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