Marine Corrosion

TD15

The following is an extract from the publication by MGDuff about marine corrosion. Clements Marine acknowledge
past support from MGDuff and permission to publish this sheet.
"What really is corrosion?" Corrosion (corro-zhun) n. to wear away; destroy gradually. (Oxford dictionary). In brief,
virtually all underwater corrosion is of an electro-chemical nature brought about by galvanic cells formed between
parts of the SAME piece of metal. Measurable electric current flows between these cells, one part of which is called
the ANODE and corrodes away; and the other the CATHODE which does not corrode. All metals used in Boat and
Ship Building are liable to corrosion. The more 'noble' metals (Monel, stainless steel and bronzes) being much less
liable to corrosion than the 'base' metals, e.g. aluminium and ordinary steels. "I thought it was two metals
reacting?" This is what causes corrosion to increase rapidly and become a major problem - even a danger. Two
connected metals or metals which are alloys of different metals with differing potentials will set up a strong galvanic
cell. The result - the more 'base' metal will corrode away rapidly."Is it really as serious as that?" The results of
corrosion are well known but often unpredictable. On one vessel a rudder stock will wear through in a season, on
another a similar part will last twenty years. Propellers may give many years service (though corrosion is slowly going
on), but equally they may become badly corroded within a few months. Whilst this may be exceptional it is by no
means uncommon to find propellers or shafts failing within one or two years.

"What can I do to stop corrosion?"

CORRECT SELECTION OF MATERIALS - of prime
importance in the construction of craft. Metals should be
selected to be as far as possible compatible with each other
(close together on the potential table, page 2). Where this is
not possible they should be isolated from each other. In
particular, make sure that fastenings (including split pins)
are of the highest specification.
CORRECT TREATMENT OF MATERIALS - paints should
be correctly selected and applied strictly in accordance with
manufacturers' recommendations. Steelwork on rudders,
skegs and fin/bilge keels require a good quality ANTICORROSIVE PRIMER before antifouling is applied
(antifoulings containing metallic particles of copper or
bronze are not recommended).
CORRECT INSTALLATION OF ELECTRICS - to reduce
the possibility of stray current leakage. Here are some
specific recommendations:(i) Use only high grade insulated wiring of suitable capacity.
Undersize wires will cause resistance and consequent
voltage drop. (ii) Clip or support all wires at suitable
intervals to prevent fatigue and eventual fracture. (iii) Use
only corrosion-resistant terminals and connectors and make
sure that all are clean and tight. (iv) Attach only the main
battery leads to battery terminals. (v) Fit an isolating switch
in the battery circuit. (vi) Ensure that all circuits are correctly
fused. (vii) Keep all wiring, connections and junction boxes
above the bilge area and away from other areas likely to be
exposed to water.

(viii) Make sure that additional electronic gear such as

R/T, echo sounder, windspeed indicator, etc. is all
fitted in accordance with manufacturers'
recommendations. Ensure that polarity of connections
is correct and that each circuit is correctly fused.
Electrical and electronic equipment is best fitted by a
qualified marine electrician.
CORRECT MAINTENANCE OF CRAFT - particularly
paint coatings and electrical systems. Avoid the use
of lead-based primers below the waterline on metal
fittings.
Always remember that NO metal used in Marine
construction is corrosion free. However the above
advice PLUS an M.G.Duff Cathodic Protection system
will ensure maximum protection.
'What is Cathodic Protection?"
With cathodic protection the metal to be protected is
made the cathode in the equivalent of an electrolytic
cell. Only the sacrificial anode wastes away.
The most serious results of corrosion on GRP and
wooden hulled vessels are usually when a small item
such as a split pin, fastening, or a major item such as
a propeller shaft fails after corrosion. At best this can
be a source of annoyance; at worst the craft being out
of commission until an expensive repair is completed.
(cont on page 2...)

Marine Corrosion

TD15
page2

(cont from page 1) Equally destructive and often more serious corrosion results from STRAY CURRENT LEAKAGE.
A fault in the electrical system can permit current to flow through the water from one fitting to another causing serious
corrosion.
Cathodic Protection is the process of superimposing an electro-chemical cell more powerful than the corrosion cell.
A base metal ANODE (usually high purity zinc alloy) is connected to the stern gear. The stern gear in turn becomes
the CATHODE and does not corrode. Meantime the anodes themselves wear away gradually. In a properly
connected system all corrosion then takes place in the (replaceable) anodes, which are commonly made of Zinc.

GALVANIC SERIES CHART

The lower listed material will be cathodically

protected at the expense of a higher listed
metal.
Zinc anodes properly installed will, therefore,
protect the alloys listed below it on the list.
NOTE: Due to lack of oxygen caused by
crevices or trapped water, some alloys will
change their position in the galvanic series,
i.e., they will change from a passive state to
an active state.

Magnesium
Zinc
Aluminum
Mild Steel
Type304 stainless(active)
Type316(active)
Duplex Aqualoy30 stainless(active)
ManganeseBronze
NavalBrass
AluminumBronze
SiliconBronze
C-Bronze,M-Bronze
Alloy 500, Alloy 400
Type 304 (passive)
Type 316 (passive)
Duplex Aqualoy30 stainless(passive)
Graphite
Gold
Platinum

Moving between fresh water and salt water.

Some vessels will from time to time move between salt and fresh water and owners should be aware of the effects
that this may have on the cathodic protection system.
The surface of a zinc anode will, if left in fresh water for some time, become covered with an off-white coloured
protective crust. This will effectively seal the anode and stop it working, even when the craft is returned to salt water.
The consequences are that the next most anodic item bonded to the anode will start to sacrifice itself which could of
course be very serious.
It is therefore very important to check the anodes after any trips into fresh water and if necessary clean off or change
the anodes. If the vessel is to move into fresh water for more than two weeks MGDUFF recommend that an
alternative anode system is used suitable for fresh water situations.

We would like to acknowledge MGDuff Ltd for the provision of technical information in this Data sheet and
recommend their anodic protection products and technical support in this field. Clements Marine provide their shaft
mounted Electro-eliminator products as part of our service, the detail being covered in Technical Data Sheet TD11.
Clements Marine strongly recommend taking the advice of an expert on corrosion protection matters.