Professional Documents
Culture Documents
something
issue
Welcome Who’s
to your 30s: that Girl?
A roundtable discussion How Big Retail Chains
with New York’s top female are targeting the
movers and shakers. “new” 30-year-old.
contents 15
12 8 Contributors
In Every Issue
10
Essentials Spring’s essentials
items by blogger Cassandra LaValle.
12
Coverings Top dress picks of the
season by Denver dilletant May Wilson.
14
Furnishings The lates trends in home decor
by shop owner and blogger Annie Crowninshield.
16
Vanities Beauty Expert, Andrea Ducharme’s working
girl’s guide to spring makeup.
18
Vanities Makeup artist, Ann Marie Laurendeau, selects
the latest products to look your best this spring.
10 20
Eats Real estate broker and part-time foodie, Michelle Mckenna,
shows us how to cook in season.
18
116
contents
In Every Issue
88
READS Book Reviewer, publicist and journalist, Jocelyn Kelley,
recommends what’s new in print.
90
Rants Amber West tells it like it is. This issue she takes on a tall
drink of a certain warm obsession...
92
SWEATS Mariel McNaughton reports on what’s hot in fitness.
This issue, let go of your fear of weights with BODYPUMP.
116
LUSTs Publisher, Dana Córdova’s lusts of the season.
Because, well, we all want things...
33
Features
24
Welcome to your Thirties A round table discussion
about the benefits of saying goodbye to your twenties.
28
Who’s that Girl? Retailers rejigger selections and concepts
to capture the 30-something shopper.
33
The Eye of the Beholder The history of the ideals of beauty
from the strange, painful, absurd and even deadly.
92 88
p sloane / spring 2010
Publisher / Editor Dana Córdova
Spring 2010
Design / Photo Editor Dana Córdova
Assistant Editor Colleen Reilly
Marketing Rachel Texeira
contents
Technical Advisor Luke Peters
Advertising Sales:
advertising@sloanemag.com
40 Fashion
Interested in Getting Involved?
Please send your idea pitch to 40
Hibernation’s End Relaxed boho layers to carry you through
chilly mornings, warm afternoons and out on the town.
editorial@sloanemag.com with the
subject line: Ideas for the urbane.
58
Belgian Beauties The young women of Brussells teach us how
to look chic on a dime by mixing unique vintage pieces.
Join the Mailing List!
mail@sloanemag.com
72
SpringFling Wake yourself, and your mate, up from a winter
slumber and slip into these light and flirty lingerie pieces.
© 2010 sloane
102
My Poorly Drawn Life Sloane goes inside the home of comic
artist Tania del Rio.
111
not in any way that suggests that they endorse
you or your use of the work).
Reflections Thirty-fried, by Leala C. Munson.
Noncommercial: You may not use this work for The frazzeled working girl gets a reality check.
commercial purposes.
No Derivative Works: You may not alter, trans- 95
114
form, or build upon this work. Reflections Proper Ventilation, By Joanne Colan.
Just, breathe.
At age 13, I saw my first issue of The Spring 2010 inaugural edi-
Sassy magazine and knew I wanted tion—the 30-Something Issue—
to create a publication of my own. assembles some truly fantastic writ-
Flash forward to age 32: 8+ years ers, photographers and profession-
in the publishing and contemporary als to give their take on the concept.
art world, 1+ year of marriage and, An in depth look at how major retail-
reflecting on where I’ve been and ers are targeting the new moneyed
where I’d like to go, I decided NOW 30-something, to an intruiging over-
was my time. view of the ideals of beauty through-
out the ages, to ways in which we
Freed of publishing costs, logistics can remember to stop our busy lives
Born and raised in Berkeley, CA. Elkie Vanstiphout was born and An accomplished member of the fash- Dana Córdova and overhead—and, thanks to ad- and breath; endless fashion spreads,
Chloe got her MFA in Film Produc- raised in a very small town in Bel- ion and entertainment industries, Car- Editor/Publisher vances in technology—there truly beauty tips, over 200 shopping links
tion from USC and quickly found gium, in which she still spends her rie Mitchell enjoys a diverse career as seems to be no time like the pres- and more...
she loved taking still photos more days taking pictures and making mu- a writer and producer, spanning New ent. In creating my vision for the
than working on moving ones. For sic. For Belgian Beauties, Elkie and York, Toronto, Vancouver, Shanghai magazine I considered what I liked For, Welcome to your Thirties, Car-
Spring Fling Chloe went on loca- her sister, stylist Suzie Vanstiphout, and Paris. She currently covers all and didn’t like about the maga- rie Mitchell gathered together a
tion in the desert outside Los An- created sophistocated images using things style, while photographing and zines stacked up beside my bed. great (albeit annonymous) group of
geles to shoot images that capture only affordable clothing and the am- travelling whenever she can. In truth, I love ALL magazines, all powerful New Yorker’s to offer their
the warmth and freedom of spring. bience of the streets of Brussels. www.stylegroove.com types, all styles. They are these won- take on what they love about being
www.chloeaftel.com. www.ellequi.com derful little creations filled with end- in their 30s. This particular piece re-
less interest. My friends will tell you ally spoke to me, given where I am in
I read every caption, note and even my life, and from being surrounded
the index. Fashion, health, design, by women who feel the same as they
fitness, current events...but, they are do. We are not our mothers’ daugh-
all in so many different places and so ters, we are not 25 (although we just
often depict people and things with might look it!), we don’t accept the
which I don’t often identify...some “settle-down” ideas of the past and
too young, some too mature, others we are changing the idea of “Happily
too high brow and others too low. Ever After” every day.
I hope that you will find sloane is
just right. This is what sloane is about. A place
that combines the youthfulness you
Thus, my curatorial skills came in still possess with the self-possession,
handy. sloane is in so many ways, a achievement and confidence you
grand exhibition—a zeitgeist, a col- never had when you were in your
Felicity Byrne is a freelance photog- Suzie Vanstiphout attended art Caletha Crawford is a veteran writer lection of life in progress. I hope that 20s. Please enjoy and be inspired.
rapher and photo editor living in Los school where she specialized in paint- who has covered fashion and retail you will find inspiring articles, fun
Angeles. She has a degree in pho- ing and drawing. Her favorite hobby for consumers and market insid- fashion and beauty ideas, beautiful I present to you, my firstborn.
tography from Art Center College of was always playing dressup—from ers for more than 10 years. In ad- photography, thoughtful pieces to
Design. Her work has appeared in spending hours composing outfits dition to being the editor in chief make you pause and ideas to stay
Dazed and Confused, Vibe, and Flaunt for herself and customizing afford- of Earnshaw’s magazine, she shares healthy. I encourage you to notice
Magazine. For Hibernation’s End Felic- able dresses, to helping style photo constructive and destructive critiques that, (wherever possible) we have
ity created beautiful photgraphs using shoots for friends. She now devotes of her favorite television shows at created useful links for shopping
natural light and a simple home set- all her time to fashion styling. blamethedvr.wordpress.com. She also resources and background infor-
ting that feel real and relatable. writes for AskMichaelCohen.com and mation on articles. Please consider
www.felicitybyrne.com the forthcoming TheAtlantaPost.com.
1
2
By the time a new season approaches, I’ve usually already 8. CB2 Tumblers $3.95 (each) Pick up a few brightly
spent months sorting through new styles and trends (some colored glasses for refreshing cocktails, invite your friends
of which seem to pass before they’ve even begun) to end up over, and enjoy the fabulous weather!
with an overall look that mixes my classically inspired approach
to design. For spring and summer, I’ve built my must-haves 9. J. Crew Panama Hat $58 This year’s must-have acces-
around a relaxed, washed out beach style that incorporates sory is the fedora. For me, I prefer the more classic shape
pops of neon for a punch of fun... and color like this one. It makes a trend seem less ubiqui-
8
tous and more like you’ve been doing it all along.
1. Heidi Merrick Linen Dress $ Nothing says summer more
to me than a little white linen dress. The bohemian sleeves and 10. CB Perfume “At The Beach 1966” $70 Because I’m
neon stitch in this piece are pure genius! a California beach girl at heart, the smell of Coppertone oil
and ocean breezes makes for the best perfume I can imagine.
2. Urban Outfitters Outdoor Side Table $38 Cassandra Lavalle began her career in event
You can’t expect to enjoy the sunshine without a cool planning in 2002, moving into interior design in
drink in your hand and a table to set it on! 2007 when she began her then blog (now business)
4 coco+kelley. Exploring trends in fashion, decor, and
3. Kendra scott Ring $75 I never leave entertaining, coco+kelley has received praise and
home for the evening without a fabulous cock- recognition from publications like Martha Stewart,
tail ring, and neither should you. This year I’m crav- Lucky Magazine, and the New York Times. Cassan-
5 ing the natural texture of turquoise set in shiny gold to contrast dra lives in Seattle, WA where she also works as a
my softer wardrobe. It always makes a statement and is sure to Home Merchandiser for Anthropologie.
start a conversation.
2
1. Vivienne Westwood, $575 Maybe its my east coast 8. Milly, $316 Ever since I saw the
roots, but I am a sucker for nautical stripes and this season we Hérmes chain pattern I have cov-
can all love them together because they are everywhere. I love eted all things chain linked...except
that this dress is not your typical stripe and is very flattering for fences. This dress is no exception.
those who are frightened by horizontal stripes.
9. Banana Republic, $79.50
2. Halston Heritage, $895 I am new to this line, but I like I love hunting down a deal for
what I see. This dress connects with my inner hippy (VERY in- the season and this is it for me.
ner). Think big gold chunky bracelet, some gold hoops and a Oprah’s stylist said we all have to
comfortable pair of flats. have a spicy color for the Spring
and he is right...they look good on
3. Missoni, $775 Oh Missoni how you have hurt my bank ac- EVERYONE! Check out the detail
countant, but they never go out of style. This season I am col- around the collar...love.
lecting my spare change and swearing off Starbucks so that
I can have one of my very own. This season and beyond.
7 10. DVF, $220 Two of the big buzz words
for this Spring are floral and abstract prints.
4. Alexander Wang, $595 You will see a lot of these ruched I have always had trouble getting my head
dresses this season. They look very intimidating on around both of these trends, but this DVF dress
the hanger, but take a deep breath and try it on! This style hides works for me. I especially love the waist wrap so
a multitude of sins and will make you feel sexy...I promise. it doesn’t end up looking like a muumuu.
1
5. Lotta Stensson, $135
When I see this dress I dream
of farmer markets, flip flops and
big sunglasses. There is noth-
10
ing more comfortable then 4
a great jersey floor length May Gardner Wilson currently resides in
dress for Spring errands. Denver, CO working on decorating projects
ranging from pillow fluffing to home re-mod-
8
6. Rebecca Taylor, $325 els. She also is involved with a variety of local
The little girl in me will always and international charities. Prior to Denver,
love ruffles. I love the idea of a May worked as a designer with Charlotte
little tan, silver accessories and a Moss in New York City. Her pride and joy
great pair of wedges (see Jimmy is her pug Lola who patiently observes
3
Choo this season!). her constant desire to look her best!
5
p12 sloane / spring 2010 p13 sloane / spring 2010
4 Two’s company, $195
6 Target, $249.99
3 Empiric, $275
p14 sloane / spring 2010 p15 sloane / spring 2010
Once again spring is here and it is time to renew, re-
invent and refresh your wardrobe and makeup. This season,
I have been asked by many of my professional clients this ques- • NARS Torrid Blush: Slightly pink, bright peach
tion: “How do I translate the bold, and in some cases downright tone with a hint of shimmer
over the top, looks featured on the runways into a workable • MAC Shroom Eyeshadow: Simply the perfect
look?” Of course, as a makeup artist I am completely smitten allover ivory shadow with a satin texture
with the matte fuchsia lip, just not sure if it will fly for the work- • Paula Dorf Eyeshadow in Wet Sand: A great
ing girl at her next risk-reduction presentation at the office. Well, matte warm brown to define the crease
why not sneak some strategically placed SHEER pops of color • Stila Smudgepot in Cobalt: A stay all day gel
in with your favorite neutrals? After all, a girl can still be stylish liner in the perfect 80’s blue, can be softened
while she is conquering the corporate jungle. and smudged but never budges
• NARS Niagra Lipstick: The perfect Pink-Coral
Lips • NARS Schiap Lipstick: A beautiful matte pink
Cherry red, fiery orange, hot fuchsia and neon pink lipsticks • Bareminerals Buxom Lipgloss In Krystal:
call out to you from the spring makeup displays, but how do A clear lipgloss with a plumper built into the formula
you wear these shades to the weekly management meeting and
be taken seriously? Simple. Put on the bold lip color, blot down
and top with a clear lip gloss. Now pair it with a classic nude
eye shadow, two coats of mascara, add a swirl of a matte pinky-
peach blush to the apples of your cheeks and you are ready to
rule the boardroom. Image: Spring 2010 Versace via Style.com Image: NARS
Eyes
This go-to technique is a sure bet to brighten your eyes while still
looking professional when crunching numbers. Take a neutral
ivory shadow all over the lid, add a matte warm peachy brown
into the crease, now add a smudge of whatever jewel tone shade
you want along the upper lash-line. It is a surprisingly chic way
to wear the candy-colored shadows seen at Bryant Park while
presenting your latest ad campaign on Madison Avenue.
Cheeks
I ADORE the Spring 2010 Nars Collection featuring Amber Valetta
channelling Catherine Deneuve goddess with majorly contoured
bright coral cheekbones. However I realize this will look over-
done in the workplace, so here is my solution. If you simply have Andrea Ducharme has been working in the
to have wear the bright cheek color, skip the contour all together. makeup industry for over 18 years, and has had
Simply smile and swirl the coral or pink blush on your apples, the pleasure and honor to represent Clinique,
then dip your blush brush into a translucent powder and go over Estee Lauder, Trish McEvoy and MAC Cosmetics.
the cheeks to soften the look even more. Who says you can’t be She has received many awards and acknowledg-
flush with success while looking fabulous? ments, including being named one of Boston’s
five top makeup artists by Fashion Boston Maga-
Image: Michael Thompson via www.allure.com zine. While managing Rouge Cosmetics in Salem, Image: Elle.com
MA the boutique was awarded the prestigious
“Best of Boston for Makeup Shopping” by Boston
Magazine. She also works with several Boston
celebrities to ensure they look their best at their
personal appearances.
1. Perricone MD Nutritive Cleanser $60 This luxuri- 7. Clarins Joli Rouge Perfect Shine
ous cleanser removes impurities (dirt, oil & makeup) with- Sheer Lipstick $24
1 out stripping the skin of its vital moisture. Packed with an- This creamy textured lipstick instantly adds color
tioxidants and other anti-aging ingredients such as Alpha and shine to your lips. The long-lasting formula
Lipoic Acid and DMAE—proven to diminish the appear- keeps color true for hours after application.
ance of fine lines and improve skin’s overall texture. Coral shades are the most popular lip colors
for spring; if you are looking for a fun new
2. Estee Lauder Idealist Dual-Action color, try Melon.
Refinishing Treatment $50
2 Regular exfoliation is the best way to remove dead 8. Neutragena Healthy Skin Brighten-
skin cells and rejuvenate skin that feels dull and drab. ing Eye Perfector SPF 25 $13.99
This finely grained scrub is ultra gentle, yet works This incredible illuminator highlights and brightens your
9
perfectly to reveal healthy skin cells. It will leave you complexion while working miracles on skin imperfections. Wear
with a soft glow. as a light-weight concealer or as a highlighter under the eye-
brows. High-tech formula contains SPF 25 for added protection
3. DHC Skincare Velvet Skin Coat $21 against harmful sun rays. 7
Face primers are the secret weapon used by profes-
sional makeup artists to achieve a flawless and more 9. Sonia Kushuk Perfecting Liquid Makeup $10.49
youthful complexion. This unique, non-greasy, gel Don’t be fooled by cost, this lightweight liquid foundation offers
primer greatly enhances your skin’s overall appear- many of the benefits of foundations with a much higher price.
ance and extends the wear-time of foundation. After A few pumps of this product will provide your skin with an
3
one use you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. invisible, natural-looking dewy finish and moderate coverage.
4. Anemone Makeup Anti-Aging Moisturizer 10. CoverGirl Volume Blasting Mascara $8.99
$24.00 (available 7/1/10) Exclusive volume-boosting formula and ultra full brush
This light-weight lotion is specifically formulated to lengthens and separates lashes without clumping, flaking
4 correct the appearance of aging by stimulating collagen or smudging, creating the long and full lashes you have
production and diminishing the appearance of fine lines and always desired. Removes easily with a mild cleanser and
wrinkles. Natural green and white tea extracts work day and water. Hypoallergenic and suitable for contact lens wearers.
night to help skin retain moisture.
10
5. Senna Cosmetics Sheer Glow Eye Color $16.50
This sheer powder eye shadow provides intensely rich color as it Ann Marie Laurendeau is a makeup artist,
glides on effortlessly, and it doesn’t crease or fade. Semi-opaque hair stylist, educator, and writer with more than 20
color and light-reflective finish enhance eyes to their years experience. In 1995 she founded Anemone
maximum potential. (If you are searching for Makeup and in 2006 launched her own line of all-
a pretty champagne color try Glossamer.) natural, mineral-based cosmetics which includes
makeup and skin care products. Throughout her
6. M.A.C. Mineralize Blush $21 career, Ann Marie has provided makeup and hair-
This gorgeous luminous powder blush contains all the styling for many well-known corporate clients, ce-
benefits of pure minerals. It seamlessly glides across lebrities, and public figures. Based in Boston, she
your cheeks without streaking, resulting in the same frequently travels throughout New England, New
sheer healthy glow you achieve from a brisk walk! York and beyond for media, destination weddings,
and events.
Today with the internet at our finger People all over the country are realizing all the ben-
tips there are thousands of recipes to efits of eating locally. More nutritious and flavorful
choose from it makes it overwhelm- fruits and vegetables plus you support your local
ing to pick out a recipe and how do farmers. Find out where there are farmers markets
you know which one is better than near you: www.localharvest.org
another? This is a great quick meal,
that’s makes a big batch to have
all week long. I bought a rotisserie
chicken and shredded the chicken
to save time. The easiest way to Winter
shread chicken is to use two forks Chestnuts, Grapefruit, Lemons, Oranges
and pull the meat apart. Don’t skimp Tangerines, Kale, Leeks, Radicchio
on the toppings they take the soup Radishes, Rutabaga, Turnips
to whole new level!
Spring
Apricots, Avocado, Mango, Pineapple
Rhubarb, Strawberries, Artichoke, Asparagus
Carrots, Celeriac, Chives, Collards
Fava Beans, Fennel, Fiddlehead Ferns, Morels
Mustard Greens, New Potatoes, Spinach
Spring Baby Lettuce Mixes, Sugar Snap
and Snow Peas, Vidalia Onions, Watercress
Summer
Blackberries, Blueberries, Nectarines, Peaches
Plums, Raspberries, Tomatoes, Watermelon
Beets, Broccoli, Chinese Cabbage, Corn
Cucumber, Eggplant, Garlic, Green Beans
Summer Squash, Zucchini
Fall
Apples, Cranberries, Figs, Grapes, Pears
Pomegranate, Quince, Acorn Squash, Belgian
Endive. Butternut Squash, Cauliflower, Celeriac
Garlic, Ginger, Mushrooms, Parsnips, Potatoes
Pumpkin, Sweet Potatoes, Swiss Chard
Source: www.hubpages.com
—As someone who is very focused What women do you admire? Thoughts on the youth obsessed
on career at the moment, I love that media?
in your thirties people take you seri- —I look at my mother and see how
ously in business. Finally! solid she is. That can only come with —The one thing about youth that
A
today’s 30-year-old consumers are
could blame her? The brand had ally calling out: ‘If you’re 30, come shopping a lot differently then we
grayed to the point of a punch line, here.’ They’re addressing a fashion did a decade ago.
earning a notorious place on Broad- sensibility, a wearability and a value “In my 20’s, I was very trendy
way in Nora Ephron’s play “Love, proposition that communicates to and now I have more of a classic
Loss and What I Wore” with the that life stage ‘We understand what look,” explained Carla Stocker, a
ge—like size—is a line: “When you start wearing Ei- you need and we’re delivering it.’” single 40-year-old Wells Fargo bank-
very touchy subject in fashion. Just leen Fisher, you might as well say Pinpointing the needs of cus- er from the Atlanta area, adding
look at the deep sartorial waters ‘I give up.’” OUCH! tomers is a safer option than brack- that she turns to funky accessories
Eileen Fisher found herself in last With this cautionary tale in mind, eting them by age; no group is to punch up her look. “In my 20’s,
Fall after attempting to ditch her it’s no wonder that fashion types are homogeneous, especially today. if I saw it and wanted it, I bought
eponymous brand’s image as your skittish about discussing age. “Peo- “We’re seeing more fragmenting in it. There wasn’t a thought process.
mother’s clothing label. Beyond the ple tend not to want to say they’re age groups than there used to be. Now, I think about if I need it or have
sleeker, more hip fits of the clothes, targeting people in their 30s just like They’re breaking up and becoming it in my closet already.”
she created a splash by jettisoning they didn’t want to say they’re tar- submarket groups,” explains Dudley This idea of stopping to con- Thirty-eight year old Jennifer
the usual silver-haired Boomers in geting 40-somethings or 50-some- Blossom, Ph. D and associate pro- sider a purchase—based on quality, Introducing The New Kids Vallez of Connecticut describes her-
the company’s ad campaigns, literal- things,” observed Wendy Liebmann, fessor at LIM College, which focuses aesthetics or need—is a hallmark of On the Block self as an impulsive shopper who
ly trading them in for younger mod- CEO of marketing consultancy WSL on the business of fashion. “The 30-plus shopping. Meredith Levy, Retailers are responding to these prefers to fill her closet via the In-
els. Devotees like Rosie O’Donnell Strategic Retail. “There are compa- Baby Boomer generation was born a 35-year-old New York mom and shifting demands, aiming stores ternet thanks to her time-strapped
were not amused. But really who nies that are doing it but not liter- in a narrow range—about a five year founder of the Pint Size Social on- and collections towards the various schedule as a mother of two young
I
room of the Twilight
Zone, the main char-
acter awaits the re-
sults of her ninth pro-
cedure that attempts
mages of feminine beauty are to make her look “nor-
everywhere. History, culture, me- mal.” In the fictional
dia, industry developments—whether society of the Twilight
a woman chooses to or not, she is Zone, she will be sent
presented with overwhelming im- away from society to
ages of beauty in her society. The live with others who
dream of ideal beauty is chased and are deformed if her fi-
regarded as a standard by which nal treatment has not
women are so often measured. Nar- achieved the desired
row definitions of beauty make it dif- result. To her despair
ficult to imagine alternatives. Yet a and horror, the last
spectrum of idealized beauty exists attempt at fixing her
throughout history and the world, face fails. A stunningly
defined by different characteristics beautiful woman ap-
both praised and definitive. pears as the bandag-
Physical characteristics con- es are removed. The
sidered alluring in one milieu might doctors and nurses
be seen as undesirable in others. A are repulsed by her
glance into the mainstream percep- appearance, and their
tions of the beauty ideal in different faces are revealed to
societies unveils an incredible clash be monstrous look-
of tastes, and diversity of appeal. ing. The woman faces
Dita Von Tesse (Image: Limité)
Outside of any predominantly ac- a life of banishment
cepted vision of beauty there lie oth- from society, and she is greeted by Of course, perception of beau-
er cults of beauty worship, despite another victim of “disfigurement” (in ty is subjective and largely a part of
the seemingly singular onslaught of Twilight terms), who is, of course, a personal taste. However, conformity
imagery in a given culture. A study very handsome man. He tells her to what is considered ideal physical
of differing perceptions of beauty that he will take her away to live with beauty is pursued to a rigorous and
cleans the slate in the eye of the be- others of “their kind,” where she will overwhelming extent. A uniform,
holder, and opens a grand array of feel a great sense of belonging and uncompromising view of beauty is
what are considered to be coveted being loved. He says to her, “there’s often pursued to the extent of health
characteristics of beauty. an old saying. A very, very old say- risks, surgeries, time—consum-
There is a famous episode of ing… beauty is in the eye of the be- ing and expensive beauty rituals,
the Twilight Zone called “Eye of the holder.” Though it’s obviously an mutilation, self-destruction, eating
Beholder” which illustrates a soci- extreme and bizarre mind trick, the disorders and even death. Women
ety with clear-cut values regarding episode contemplates themes of have long suffered in attempting
appearances. In the surreal hospital conformity to cultural norms. to embody impossible standards.
1940’s sex symbol and Hollywood starlet, Rita Hayworth (Image: Suspensemovies.com)
As the title implies, 2010, the 75th Murayari, this exhibition has been mark our world and be conscious
edition of the Whitney Biennial is labeled the “Women’s Biennial” with of the weight of heritage—what we
deliberately restrained, defined an unprecedented majority of the perpetuate and leave behind for the
overwhelmingly by its time, and represented artists women, as well generations to come. It is this reck-
an inverse of the institution’s prior as an unusually high inclusion of es- oning heralded by the Biennial and
bombastic, sprawling editions. As tablished artists and painters, creat- its espousal of traditionally feminine
Recycle - Reuse - Repurpose the mission statement declares, the
aim is to give a “cross section” rath-
ing a more intimate, physical and lay-
ered feel. Interestingly, it is the pared
themes which marks a significant
2.
er than an overview of the state of down approach that along with the
Unique Tote Bags & Pillows contemporary American art, and to strength of the artwork manifests the
“underscore the idea of time as an impact of the varied yet cohesive and
Handmade from Vintage Fabrics. element of the Biennial and to dem- interwoven dialogue.
onstrate the influence of the past”
within which the artists establish “di- Of the women’s contributions, some
Painted Cottage Furniture verse responses to the anxiety and of the strongest also best exem-
and Accessories for Your Home. optimism” of our era. Co-curated by plify the concept of time: legacy,
Francesco Bonami and Gary Carrion- ephemerality, identity, transition,
1. regeneration. Many of
the works give as much
weight to the tangential
theme of space, both pri-
vate and public, in order
to communicate ideas of
interiority, community,
vulnerability and dignity.
Walking among the gal-
leries, one is struck by
the highly personal and
specific nature of the shift within the contemporary mood
works, the overall ab- about gender associations, the col-
sence of irony and sexu- lective unconscious and hierarchy.
ality, the smallness in size
and simplicity of many Two of the few works included
of the selections. This which do explore sexuality to il-
subtlety is a bit of a trick, lustrate identity in very different
however, and along the ways are Aurel Schmidt’s Master
course of the exhibition of the Universe/FlexMaster 3000
an impressive discourse and Dawn Clements’, Mrs. Jessica
develops about who we Drummond’s (My Reputation,1945).
are in this day and age, Aurel Schmidt, with her humorous
our struggle to overcome and bizarre drawing of the trash-
our limits, to define and composed minotaur, has become
distinguish ourselves, to something of the Biennial’s it-girl.
Wholesale - Retail
3. (continued) decay finds new life in the creature say about the state of American con- strain that runs through their works’ 6.
arrive in varying media: photogra- that semblance makes of it, a survi- temporary art, in particular, as well messages is about what it means to
phy, painting, and sculpture. In Tam vor’s character study. Aki Sasamo- as a larger possible paradigm shift be an American and an artist; female
Tran’s series, Raising Hell, her young, to’s Strange Attractors installation in our society? The female artists in- artists now have the advantage of
pajama-clad nephew fights off an uses science as a springboard (the cluded in the show are both Ameri- hard-won equality and get to move
imaginary foe armed with cape and Lorenz Attractor, a fractal structure in 5. beyond the gender
broomstick, the photographs alter- a dynamic system) upon which the narrative to represent
nately capturing the forceful warrior artist’s interactions with the artificial society and make per-
and the little boy with his outsized environment transcend the ordinary sonal messages that
weapons. Maureen Gallace’s small into something new: a performance are universal—what it
paintings of New England homes at art version of Pollock’s action paint- means to be human,
first glance seem dainty and pasto- ing, controlled but playful chaos. Pae not what it means to
ral but the lack of any facade detail- White’s exquisite tapestry creation be a woman.
ing on the homes gives them a sub- Still, Untitled, almost painful not to
versive undertone; they are missing touch, combines digital photography Our time is an era
their inhabitants and any means of with the loom to result in a lustrous, marked by stagnation
entry or view, merely semblances evocative large-scale textural work. as much as change,
of a home, insubstantial and ex- The ephemeral smoke wisps curl and floundering in war
clusionary, Norman Rockwell via dance along the surface in a cool, and recession, so-
the Twilight Zone. Jessica Jackson sensual depiction of fleeting meta- can born and immigrants, ages cially discontinuous, technologically silient, quietly willful vision, making
Hutchins’ sculptural work, Couch For morphosis, which the artist describes ranging from early twenties to mid dominated. While much of the art in the otherness into something beau-
The young artist’s tongue-in-cheek a Long Time, consists of 4. seventies, and of varying ethnicities this year’s Biennial is psychologically tiful and dignified. The Biennial feels
image of the man-beast, his body a sofa from her childhood and socioeconomic backgrounds. weighty, the pervasive mood is one of hopeful because it shows progress
constructed of refuse (including cig- living room which the art- strength: of rising to meet challeng- is being made despite our problems,
arettes, beer cans, condoms, vase- ist “reupholstered” with The most significant and evident es, the idiosyncrasies of personality, and while the naysayers love to ar-
line, and a Blackberry), straddles a newspaper articles about change in their artworks is that of making patterns out of the chaos, gue about the medium’s irrelevance
number of opposing ideas: mascu- Barack Obama occupied they aren’t hampered by or advo- moving away from passivity to resus- and politics, the curators found a way
linity and impotence, beauty and ug- by awkward ceramic ob- cating their femaleness or the gen- citate, to reconsider, 7.
liness, life and decay. Alternatively, jects positioned on the der war; the images of women by to bring life back to
Clements’ wry, intricate ink drawing cushions as stand-ins women where found here are fluid the realm of the es-
of a woman’s boudoir, replicated in for the family, the po- and what one encounters at 2010 is sential. The women
sections from the 1940s film about litical encroaching on the a focus on form, style and experi- artists in 2010 have
a “fallen woman” who has taken up importance of family or mentation with techniques. These moved beyond the
with a soldier following the death of home. Each demonstrates women stand comfortably on the gender war to fo-
her husband confronts the construct through distillations of shoulders of giants because of the cus on larger, uni-
of womanhood as a trap, a prison. American iconography— last seventy years’ toiling of other versal issues while
The panoramic view into her life and superheroes, regionalism, women who fought to have a voice still communicating
objects is both highly detailed yet in- family identity/childhood and place for themselves within the them in intimate,
complete: working from film stills, memories—the disparity institutions and markets of the mod- intuitive, sensitive
Clements reproduces images that between how things look ern to contemporary art world. The works; these con-
are side-by-side yet non-continuous, and how things are. curators were in a position to include tributions speak
taken from different angles, deliber- as the “fabric’s dream of becoming more work by women because more of people uncom-
ately fragmented. Both works dem- Finally, there are the (re-)construc- something else.” All three commu- women are able to work as artists fortable in, unsettled by their world, to redeem and make the show fresh
onstrate the limitations of gender tions: the reclaimed statue, the nicate our transience, the longing to now, they chose works based on their but determined to examine it, in on again by taking it back to the basics:
identity, the inherent contradictions found-art environment, the dream- be protean and timeless, our human strengths and scope rather than topi- the joke. The show celebrates a new good art. s
of traditional roles (the impotent world tapestry. Huma Bhabha’s to- need to personify the natural world cality, and we, as the audience, get a breed and mood in contemporary
beast, the sexualized woman), and temic piece, My Skull Is Too Small, and be less alien to ourselves, one more interesting, representative and American art: adeptly integrating Images: Whitney Museum
fuse the modern (recycling, repro- made of detritus looks ominous another and our environments. accessible show and dialogue. The old and new, positing an holistic, re- of American Art.
duction) with the past (mythological and dreary at first glance, but mar-
beast, antique belongings). ries the dystopian with hopefulness So, what does the demographics
Interpretations of American identity in that this reconstituted object of profile of this “Women’s Biennial”
3. Tam Tran, Battle Cry 5. Jessica Jackson Hutchins, Couch For a Long Time 7. Pae White, Smoke Knows
4. Maureen Gallace, Cape Cod, Early September 6. Huma Bhabha, My Skull Is Too Small
up to the transgres-
sive theme of this
year’s title, No Guts
No Glory. Stand-
outs for me: GL
Brierley’s metamor-
phosing forms at
Madder139, Anita
Beckers’ booth for
Maria Jose Arjona’s
performance, Israeli
artists Yuval Pudik’s
hybrid collages at
Kim Light/LightBox
and Tamara Kosti-
anovsky hanging
meat fabric sculp-
tures at Y Gallery.