Professional Documents
Culture Documents
TOP
2016
SAN FRANCISCO
NAPA VALLEY WINERIES HISTORIC SIGHTS CAFES
MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES ITINERARIES AND TRIPS
BARS AND CLUBS TOP RESTAURANTS HOTELS
E PL
STREET
WETMORE
ST
CODMAN PL
STREET
C L AY
Tin H
Tem
Kung Chow
Temple
STREET
JOICE
Chinese Historical
Society of America
Golden
Fortune Co
Com
STONE ST
Cable Car
Museum
STREET
UBURN STREET
JOHN STREET
Chinese
C
BEST OF EVERYTHING
E Y E W I T N E S S T R AV E L
TOP
SAN FRANCISCO
JEFFREY KENNEDY
Top 10 San
Francisco
Highlights
Welcome to San Francisco ............ 5
Exploring San Francisco................ 6
San Franciscos Highlights .......... 10
Golden Gate Bridge ..................... 12
Cable Cars .................................... 14
Fishermans Wharf ...................... 16
Alcatraz......................................... 18
Chinatown..................................... 22
Golden Gate Park......................... 24
de Young Museum ....................... 28
San Francisco Museum
of Modern Art ........................... 30
Mission Dolores ........................... 34
The Wine Country ........................ 36
The Top 10 of
Everything
Moments in History ..................... 42
Writers and Notable Residents... 44
Historic Sites ................................ 46
Churches ...................................... 48
Architectural Highlights .............. 50
Museums...................................... 52
Art Galleries ................................. 54
Parks and Gardens ...................... 56
Beaches ........................................ 58
Outdoor Activities......................... 60
Off the Beaten Path ..................... 62
Day Trips from the City ................ 64
Childrens Attractions .................. 66
Performing Arts Venues.............. 68
Nightlife ........................................ 70
Gay and Lesbian Venues ............. 72
Restaurants.................................. 74
Cafs and Bars............................. 76
Stores and Shopping Centers ..... 78
San Francisco for Free ................ 80
Festivals and Parades ................. 82
CONTENTS
San Francisco
Area by Area
Streetsmart
Downtown..................................... 86
The North Shoreline .................... 96
Central Neighborhoods .............102
Southern Neighborhoods..........108
Oceanfront ..................................116
The Bay Area ..............................124
Welcome to
San Francisco
The clacking wheels of cable cars. Steaming crab pots.
Red and gold pagodas. Vibrant gay bars. Victorian
mansions. The stunning bay, spanned by the glowing
Golden Gate Bridge. And, always, fascinating people.
This jewel of a city has something for all comers and,
with Eyewitness Top 10 San Francisco, its yours to explore.
The misty hills of San Francisco have known Spanish conquistadors,
Mexican settlers, the fortune seekers of the Gold Rush, and todays
lively Latin American, European, Filipino, Russian, and Pan-Asian
populations each with their own festivals, neighborhoods, and
eateries. Cultural diversity in this town is impossible to ignore just
walk down the street to hear a babble of languages. North Beach is
home to Italians, the Mission is Hispanic and Asian, and Chinatown
speaks for itself. The variety of ethnic restaurants is vast there are
over 3,500 places to eat in this foodie town: sushi bars, taqueras,
dim sum parlors, brasseries, and Michelin-starred restaurants.
The city shines with culture, from the San Francisco Museum of
Modern Art and the de Young Museum to opera in Golden Gate
Park and the Fillmore Street Jazz Festival. To intrepid explorers,
the city reveals her more hidden treasures, from the backstreet
Tin How Temple to the cypress-tree sculptures in the Presidio
forest. The citys annual events are legendary: the Bay to Breakers
race, the explosive Chinese New Year parade, and of course the
eyebrow-raising pageant of the Pride Celebration Parade.
Whether youre coming for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide
brings together the best of everything the city has to offer, from
iconic sights like Alcatraz to day trips to the Wine Country. It gives
you tips throughout, from seeking out whats free to avoiding the
crowds, plus easy-to-follow itineraries, planned to help you visit a
clutch of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring photography
and detailed maps, and youve got the essential pocket-sized travel
companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy San Francisco.
Clockwise from top: Golden Gate Bridge, statue at the Palace of Fine Arts, a cable car, sailing by
Alcatraz, Golden Gate Park, Transamerica Pyramid, detail of City Halls interior
Golden Gate
Bridge
Pagoda, Japanese
Tea Garden
Crissy Field
Marina
Green
SHUT TLE
Presidio
Ocers
Club
Cli House
de Young
Museum
Dutch
Windmill
Golden Gate
Japanese
Tea Garden
California
Academy of
Sciences
Park
Stow Lake
0 kilometers
Ferry Building
0 miles
Two Days in
San Francisco
Day 1
MORNING
Day 2
AFTERNOON
MORNING
AFTERNOON
Four Days in
San Francisco
Day 1
MORNING
RY
FER
Aquatic
Park
Fishermans
Wharf
Pier 39
Alcatraz Island
(1.5 miles)
Pier 33
Buena
Vista Caf
Washington
Square
Coit
Tower
Ca Trieste
CABLE CA
Chinatown,
Tim How Temple,
Hang Ah Tea Room
InterContinental
Mark Hopkins
SFMOMA
Union Square
Yerba Buena Gardens
Contemporary
Jewish Museum
Day 3
MORNING
BA
RT
Day 4
MORNING
Mission
Dolores
Key
Two-day itinerary
Four-day itinerary
AFTERNOON
Day 2
MORNING
Sea lions
basking at
Pier 39
10
24
12
de Young Museum
28
Cable Cars
14
Fishermans Wharf
16
30
Alcatraz
18
Mission Dolores
34
Chinatown
22
36
San Franciscos
Highlights
Most visitors, after a few days of taking in the
sights and sounds of San Francisco, will likely
tell you its their favorite city. The geographical
setting evokes so much drama, the light
seems clearer, the colors more vivid, the
cultural diversity so captivating and
inviting, that its a place almost
everyone can fall in love with at
rst sight.
Golden Gate Bridge
This symbol of the city is
one of the worlds largest single
span bridges (see pp1213).
Cable Cars
Sonoma
Napa
37
Novato
Vallejo
RD
101
San
Rafael
Berkeley
1
BO
UL
Oakland
SAN
FRANCISCO
0 miles
COLN
0 km 20
PRESIDIO
EF
LIN
20
EVA
RW
Y
25TH
Li n co l n Pa rk
The Rock
continues to capture
the imagination. The
views from the ferry are
among the best parts
of a visit (see pp1821).
B O U L E VA R D
GEARY
STREET
WAY
SUNSET DISTRICT
0 km
0 miles
Chinatown
The exotic
feel of one of the worlds
largest Chinese communities outside of Asia makes
this a magnet for locals
and visitors alike
(see pp223).
7TH AVEN UE
Alcatraz
F U LT O N
HI G H WAY
G R E AT
Fishermans
Wharf
GE ARY
CALIFORNIA
RICHMOND
AV E N U E
S utro
Hei g h ts
Pa r k
Golden Gate
Park
The city boasts one of
the worlds largest
public parks, with
natural beauty and
ne museums
(see pp247).
SFMOMA
San Franciscos
architectural landmark houses 20thcentury masterworks
of painting, sculpture
and photography,
digital installations,
and temporary exhibitions (see pp3031).
de Young
Museum
A cultural landmark
housing American,
Oceanian, and African
art, as well as
temporary exhibits
(see pp289).
700 meters
JE FF
AD
ER
ST
RE
ET
3R
D
ET
ST
RK
AY
SOUTH OF
MARKET
ST
CASTRO
16T H
MISSION
Mission
Dolores
RC
T
ST
STREE
EE T
MIS SIO N STR
AN ST
TWIN
PEAKS
ST
E
RE
ST
OAK
STREET
8T
HAYES
VALLEY
CASTRO
S TA N Y
17TH
BA
HAIGHTASHBURY
Bu e n a
Vis ta
Pa r k
AV
ST
TAYLOR
ST
WESTERN
ADDITION
ST
FELL
ST
ST
F U LT O
ST
AV EN UE
VA R D
ADER
BOULE
GEARY
NORTH
BEACH
FINANCIAL
DISTRICT
ORNIA
JAPANTOWN
BU
WAY
HY DE
BROAD
NE SS
CALIF
DIVIS
PRESIDIO
HEIGHTS
STREE
PACIFIC
HEIGHTS
Alta
Plaza
RUSSIAN
HILL
TELEGRAPH
HILL
M
EM
STREE
LU
ARD
VA N
LOMB
PRESIDIO
T CO
TH
ST RE E
BAY
Fo r t
Ma so n
Center
SI
A BLVD
IS
MARINA DISTRICT
M AR IN
ST
ER SO N
STR EE T
BR
ID
2 Bridge
Celebrations
The bridge opened on
May 27, 1937, with some
200,000 pedestrians.
Fifty years later, the
ritual was repeated. On
May 27, 2012, the 75th
anniversary of the
opening was marked.
Point
3 Fort
Lookout
5 Maintenance
Repairing and
System
4 Toll
Since 1937, cars
have had to pay a toll
to cross the bridge.
Now, only city-bound
trafc is charged, and in
2013 the system was
made fully electronic in
order to ease the trafc
congestion from stopping
at toll booths.
the
8 Building
Bridge
Strauss introduced the
use of hard hats (above)
and a safety net that
saved 19 workers lives.
and
9 Hiking
Biking
Every visitor should walk
or cycle across at least
part of the bridge.
Vista
0 Marin
Point
Crossing from the side,
pull off just before the
end to take in the
startling panorama from
the Vista Point and look
back at the hills and
spires of the city.
Star Turns
in Movies
Barriers
7 Protective
The Golden Gate Bridge is the numberone spot in the world for suicides. As yet
there have been no barriers effective
enough to prevent this, but there are
bars in place for general safety.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP C1
(415) 921-5858
www.goldengate.org
Cruises operate
MarOct
For a uniquely
powerful view of the
bridge while enjoying a
Sunday champagne
brunch, opt for one of
the many cruises on
the Bay, departing
from the Embarcadero
Pier and Sausalito.
Quality purveyors are
Hornblower Cruises
((415) 438-8300, www.
hornblower.com), and
Call of the Sea/Seaward
((415) 331-3214, www.
callofthesea.org).
Cable Cars
Its impossible not to love these vestiges of another age, as
they valiantly make their way up the precipitous hills. Yet they
came perilously close to being scrapped in 1947, when a
progressive mayor announced it was time for buses to take
their place. An outraged citizenry prevailed, and the system
was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1964. In the
early 1980s, it underwent a $60 million overhaul. The present
service of about 40 cars covers some 10 miles (16 km).
1 Bell
While operating up and down
the hills, the
cable cars
bell (right)
is used by
the grip
person like a klaxon, to
warn other vehicles and
pedestrians of imminent
stops, starts, and turns.
Cars
Cable cars
(right) come in
two types: one that
has a turnaround
system, one that
does not. All of them
are numbered, have
wood-and-brass ttings
in the 19th-century style,
and are often painted in
differing colors.
Person
2 Grip
4 Conductor
The grip person
Collects fares, but
(below) must be quickthinking and strong to
operate the heavy
gripping levers and
braking mechanisms.
The grip is like a huge
pair of pliers that clamps
onto the cable to pull
the car along.
5 Braking
Wheel brakes
press against the
wheels; track brakes
press against the tracks
when the grip person
pulls a lever; the
emergency brake is a
steel wedge forced into
the rail slot.
Styles
6 Riding
There is a choice
of sitting inside a
glassed-in compartment,
sitting outside on
wooden benches, or
hanging onto poles and
standing on the running
board. The third option is
the best one for enjoying
the enticing sights,
sounds, and smells of
San Francisco.
Cable Cars 15
8 Turntables
Part of the fun of the cable car
experience is being there to watch
when the grip person and conductor
turn their car around for the return
trip (left). The best view is at Powell
and Market Streets.
Car Museum
9 Cable
Downstairs, look at the giant
sheaves (wheels), which keep the
cables moving throughout the system
(above); upstairs there are displays of
some of the earliest cable cars.
0 Routes
The three existing routes cover
the Financial District, Nob Hill (below),
Chinatown, North Beach, Russian Hill,
and Fishermans Wharf areas. As
Cables
these are always important
The underground cables are 1.25 destinations for visitors and for many
inches (3 cm) in diameter and consist residents, too most people will nd
of six steel strands of 19 wires, wrap- that a cable car ride is a practical as
ped around a shock-absorbing rope.
well as a pleasurable experience.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP M3
Cable Car Museum: 1201 Mason St at
Washington (415) 474-1887 www.
cablecarmuseum.org
Open AprSep: 10am6pm daily; Oct
Mar: 10am5pm daily
Rather than wait in the long lines at
a cable car terminus, do what the
locals do and walk up a stop or two,
where you can hop on right away for a
$6 fee then hold on!
Fishermans Wharf
Tourists enjoying takeout crab cocktails and sourdough bread
crowd the sidewalks and souvenir stands of the old seaside
wharf district. Amid todays seafood eateries, aquarium, wax
museum, and bay cruise piers, shing boats become great
photo ops as their catches of Dungeness crab and Pacic sh
are unloaded. Rowdy old days of the 1850s are reenacted on
masted schooners, while a World War II-era submarine and a
Liberty ship recall the citys long history as a major port.
PIER 39
Square
2 Ghirardelli
The Ghirardelli family used
this square as the headquarters of
the Ghirardelli Chocolate Company
from 1859 until 1962. The site is
now home to upscale shops and
eateries (see p100).
Bakery
5 Boudin
This is the home of the famous
chain of San Francisco sourdough
breadmakers (left). Try the crusty
round loaf, best enjoyed warm from
the oven with plenty of butter.
of the Bay
3 Aquarium
The transparent tunnel of the
aquarium visually immerses you
in the San Francisco Bay marine
habitat, where thousands of members
of diverse ocean fauna disport
themselves before your eyes. Video
presentations and marine specialist
guides help you to understand
what youre seeing.
Anchorage Square
Shopping Center
Tussauds
6 Madame
Incredibly lifelike wax gures
of movie stars, music legends,
political and sports icons, and San
Francisco celebrities are on display
here. A scary Dungeon theatrical
show is for ages 10 and up.
Fishermans Wharf 17
0
ST
PO IN T
BAY ST
ST
ST
PO LK ST
H
CO NO RT
LU
AV M B
E US
PO WE LL
N ST
JE FF ER SO
BE AC H
4
7
Cannery
7 The
Built as a warehouse in 1907, the
building underwent a
makeover in 1967, and
its now the site of some
appealing boutiques, as
well as tourist shops.
Map of
Fishermans Wharf
Alley
8 Fish
This alley is
possibly the last vestige
of the authentic,
workaday wharf. Here
you can see shing
boats come in and watch
as the catch of the day
is landed and prepared
for market.
9 Maritime
National
Historical Park
THE PORT OF
SAN FRANCISCO
Born of the California
Gold Rush of 1849, the
Port of San Francisco
(below) stretches
nearly 8 miles (13 km)
from the Hyde Street
Pier to India Basin. A
new cruise ship terminal
hosts 80 cruise ship calls
and 200,000 passengers
annually, while
freighters lumber under
the Golden Gate Bridge
and ferries, water taxis,
shing boats, and
yachts bustle to and
from the Ferry Building,
Fishermans Wharf,
and Embarcadero piers
and marinas.
Jeremiah
0 SS
OBrien
Liberty Ship
NEED TO KNOW
MAP J3
Anchorage Sq Shopping
Center: 2800 Leavenworth
St (415) 775-6000
Aquarium of the Bay:
Embarcadero (415) 6235300
SS Jeremiah OBrien
Liberty Ship: Pier 45
(415) 544-0100 www.
ssjeremiahobrien.org
Adm $16$26
Adm $12$20
Alcatraz
To the inmates physically conned on this island
prison, their punishment was also psychological.
They were in the midst of one of Americas busiest
harbors, and could probably hear the ceaseless
procession of cars crossing the bridges and
honking their horns. They could certainly see
the ocean liners gliding to faraway ports all
reminders that life was near, but freedom very far.
THE HISTORY OF
THE ROCK
The name Alcatraz
derives from the
Spanish alcatraces, for
the birds that Spanish
explorer Juan Manuel
de Ayala observed here
when he sailed into the
Bay in 1775. In 1850, the
island was set aside for
the US Army to build a
citadel, but defense
became less of a priority
and, in 1909, it became
a military prison. In
1933 the Federal
Government opened a
maximum-security
penitentiary here. Yet
Alcatraz was not the
Devils Island that
many think it was the
conditions were better
than other prisons.
4 Lighthouse
Alcatraz was the
1 Chapel
Above the guard-
house, a Mission-style
military chapel (above)
was built in the 1920s. It
was also used as living
quarters and a school.
During the post-1930s
prison phase, it was used
to house prison staff.
Block
2 DPrisoners
who
Room
5 Control
From this bunker-
Yard
3 Exercise
Good behavior
qualied prisoners for a
turn around the walledin exercise yard (left).
Here, they could walk
outside of their cells,
where they spent
between 16 and
23 hours a day.
Alcatraz 19
6 Broadway
The corridor that separates C
and B blocks was jokingly nicknamed
by prisoners after New York Citys
glittering thoroughfare, famous for its
nightlife. The intersection at the end
was named Times Square.
NEED TO KNOW
Alcatraz Cruises (Hornblower) from
Pier 33: (415) 981-7625 (tickets and
schedules) www.alcatrazcruises.com
Open daily
Adm: day tours $30 adult, $28.25
senior, $18.25 child 511 years;
night tours $37 adult, $34.25 senior,
$21.75 child 511 years; family packages
available
Tour compulsory
Picnicking is allowed on the dock,
but youll have to bring your own food.
Hall
9 Mess
Meals were one of the few
things prisoners had to look forward
to, and they were generally well fed to
quell rebellion. Note the sample menu
at the entrance to the kitchen (below).
House
8 Wardens
Until the house burned
down in 1970, the wardens
home (below) looked out to
freedom. Designed in Mission
Revival style, the home had 17
large rooms, and sweeping
views of the Golden Gate Bridge
and San Franciscos lights.
64
0 Building
The theater and orientation
center are located in the old barracks
building behind the ferry jetty. The
building also houses a bookstore,
exhibits, and a multimedia
show providing a historical
overview of Alcatraz.
Sobell
6 Morton
Charged with conspiracy to
commit treason by spying for the
Soviets, Sobell arrived on Alcatraz in
1952 and spent ve years as its most
famous political prisoner, being a
victim of J. Edgar Hoovers witch
hunt for Communist subversives.
Once freed, Sobell returned to live in
San Francisco for many years.
Brothers
7 Anglin
The brothers, John and
Burt Lancaster in Birdman of Alcatraz
Birdman
1 Robert
Stroud
of Alcatraz
2 Birdman
This 1962 movie presented
from Alcatraz
8 Escape
Starring Clint Eastwood as
Al Capone
Machine
4 George
Gun Kelly
Jailed in 1933 for kidnapping, Kelly
was given a life sentence, and was
sent to Alcatraz for 17 years of his
sentence. He was considered a
model prisoner by the ofcers.
Wathernam
9 Frank
The last prisoner to leave
Alcatraz, on March 21, 1963.
Rock
0 The
Hollywood has never lost its
fascination with Alcatraz, as can be
seen in this 1996 action thriller,
starring Sean Connery.
Alcatraz 21
NATIVE AMERICAN OCCUPATION
In 1969 Richard Oakes and 90 other Native
Americans landed on Alcatraz, set up camp,
and demanded that the government sell
them the island for $24 worth of beads and
red cloth. They claimed that this was the price
their people had been paid in exchange for
an island similar in size nearly 300 years
earlier. The government considered forcibly
removing the occupiers, but growing public
support for the Native Americans forced
ocials to renew negotiations. However, in
January, 1970, while playing on the rooftop
of one of the buildings, Oakes youngest
daughter slipped and fell to her death;
distraught, he and his family decided to
abandon their claim. Sixty Native Americans
remained, but as the stalemate dragged on,
the majority slowly began to leave only
15 chose to stay. In June, 1970, res ravaged
the wardens house, the recreation hall, the
ocers club, and the lighthouse. Following
this devastation, government troops staged
a pre-dawn raid. The remaining Native
Americans were arrested and the 19-month
occupation came to an end.
John Anglin,
escaped June, 1962
TOP 10
ESCAPE ATTEMPTS
1 December, 1937:
Theodore Cole and
Ralph Roe
2 May, 1938: Thomas
Limerick, James Lucas,
and Rufus Franklin
3 January, 1939: Arthur
Doc Barker, Dale
Stamphill, William Martin,
Henry Young, and
Rufus McCain
4 May, 1941: Joseph
Cretzer, Sam Shockley,
Arnold Kyle, and
Lloyd Barkdoll
5 April, 1943: James
Boarman, Harold Brest,
Floyd Hamilton, and
Fred Hunter
6 July, 1945: John Giles
7 May, 1946: Bernard
Coy, Joseph Cretzer,
Marvin Hubbard, Sam
Shockley, Miran
Thompson, and
Clarence Carnes
8 September, 1958:
Aaron Burgett and
Clyde Johnson
9 June, 1962: Frank
Morris and John and
Clarence Anglin
10 December, 1962:
John Paul Scott and
Darl Parker
Chinatown
This teeming, densely populated neighborhood, with its
bright facades, noisy markets, exotic temples, and ethnic
restaurants and shops, is like a city within the city and a
place every visit to San Francisco must include. The
atmosphere recalls a typical southern Chinese town, although
the architecture, customs, and public celebrations are
distinctly American hybrids on a Cantonese theme. Overlook
the tourist tackiness, check out some of the side alleys, and
give yourself time to take it all in.
Chinatown Gate
Gate Fortune
2 Golden
Cookie Company
Fortune cookies were invented in San
Francisco. Stop by to watch how the
skilful workers slip the fortune
message in the cookie mixture then
fold it into the traditional shapes.
Six Companies
3 Chinese
This buildings brilliant facade is
one of the most ornate in Chinatown.
The Six Companies association was
formed in 1882 to promote Chinese
interests within the community.
Square
4 Portsmouth
This was San Franciscos
original town square here, on July 9,
1846, the US ag was rst raised when
the port was seized from Mexico.
Locals now use the area for tai chi and
games of mah-jongg (below).
Marys Square
5 St.
This square is graced by a
stainless-steel and rose-granite statue
of Sun Yat-sen by San Francisco
sculptor Beniamino Bufano.
Historical
6 Chinese
Society of America
This building, designed by architect
Julia Morgan in 1932, is the home
of a learning center and a museum
containing a 15,000-piece collection of
artifacts, documents, photographs,
and replicas that illustrate and explain
the Chinese-American experience.
Chinatown 23
7 Stockton
Street Chinese
Markets
At these authentic
markets (left) selling
fresh produce, the real
smells, sights, and
sounds of Chinatown
come into sharp focus.
Chinese
8 Old
Telephone
Exchange
9 Chinese
Culture Center
GOLD RUSH
CANTONESE
Chinese immigrants
began to arrive with the
Gold Rush, to get rich
quick and return home
heroes. As it happened,
things turned politically
sour in China at the
time, and many Chinese
people stayed in the
new land. There was,
however, a racist
backlash against them,
resulting in the Chinese
Exclusion Act of 1882,
and Chinatown became
a kind of ghetto, full of
opium dens and vice.
The act was repealed
in 1943, and things
have steadily improved
ever since.
Temples
There are a
number of temples that
incorporate Confucian,
Taoist, and Buddhist
elements. The Tin How
Temple (right), founded
in 1852, is dedicated to
the Queen of Heaven.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP N4
Chinese Culture Center:
MAP M5 Hilton Hotel,
750 Kearny St, 3rd oor
(415) 986-1822
www.c-c-c.org
Chinese Historical
Society of America:
MAP N5 965 Clay St
(415) 391-1188
www.chsa.org
Tea
4 Japanese
Garden
Landmark museum
showing art from Africa,
America, and the Pacic,
plus photographs and
textiles (see pp289).
Stow Lake
and
Strawberry Hill
3 Victorian
Conservatory
of Flowers
5 Buffalo
Paddock
In 1984 a small herd of
buffalo was given a home
roaming under the
eucalyptus trees.
6 Strybing
Arboretum and
Botanical Garden
Tree
7 Giant
Fern Grove
0 Shakespeare
Garden
This charming English
garden (above) features
the 200-odd owers and
herbs mentioned in the
Bards works. Bronze
plaques quote the
relevant passages.
Music
Concourse
A MIRACLE OF LAND
RECLAMATION
The parks more than
1,000 acres (405 ha)
are some 3 miles (5 km)
long and half a mile
(1 km) wide, making it
the largest cultivated
urban park in the US.
There are 27 miles
(43 km) of footpaths,
winding through lakes,
gardens, waterfalls, and
forests. But it was not
always so. Before the
1870s the entire area
was sandy wastes and
scrubland. William
Hammond Hall made
great progress over two
decades, then hired
Scottish gardener John
McLaren in 1890. Uncle
John, as he was known,
made the park his lifes
work, devoting himself
to its perfection until his
death in 1943, aged 97.
California Academy
of Sciences
3 Discovery
Tidepool
Planetarium
1 Morrison
Fly through space and time to
the very limits of the known
universe, and gain a new perspective
on the planet we call home, with
high-tech exhibits and technology,
including an all-digital dome (above).
Shows are presented daily.
Reef
2 Coral
This is one of the deepest
living coral reef displays in the world,
exhibiting a range of aquatic life from
the reefs and mangroves of the
Philippines. Sharks and rays can be
seen from the surface, while the
coral, reef sh, and colorful clams
(below) can be viewed close up
through underwater windows.
4 Penguin
Feeding Time
The colony of blackfooted penguins located
in African Hall are fed
twice daily, and its
always a spectacle
enjoyed by the whole
family. Penguins may
waddle on land, but their grace is
evident when you observe them dive
and glide effortlessly through the
water to catch their meal.
Coast
5 California
Explore habitats ranging from
salt marshes to turbulent rocky
inlets and meet a variety of native
sh and invertebrates. The main
tank an exhibit featuring the
marine habitats of the Gulf of the
Farallones National Marine
Sanctuary is 100,000 gallons in
capacity, with large viewing windows,
and a crashing wave surge system.
6 Rainforests
Visitors can experience four
rainforest environments in an enormous glass dome: the Amazonian
Flooded Forest, the Borneo Forest
Swamp
8 The
Part of the Steinhart
Aquarium, which holds about 38,000
animals from around the world, the
Swamp is home to alligator snapping
turtles, Claude (the famous albino
alligator), and exhibits on frogs,
rattlesnakes, and salamanders.
Roof
9 Living
The museum is topped with a
2.5-acre (1-ha) living roof, which is
planted with over 1.7 million native
Californian plants. Take an elevator
up to the rooftop deck to enjoy the
views and learn about the benets of
sustainable architecture.
Hall
0 African
Magnicent dioramas display
de Young Museum
The immense copper-clad de Young Museum looms as a
cultural and architectural landmark above a canopy of plane
trees in the Music Concourse of the Golden Gate Park. It is a
bastion of American, Oceanian, and African art, as well as
housing a world-famous textile collection. The de Young also
lures crowds to blockbuster temporary exhibits such as King
Tuts tomb, colossal Olmec stone heads, the gems of Bulgari,
works by Henri Matisse, and Impressionist masterpieces.
3 Photography
Spanning the
and
1 Textiles
Costumes
Three centuries of ber
art and fashion include
bark cloth, Central Asian
and North Indian silks,
the most important
Anatolian kilims outside
Turkey (above), European
tapestries, and early
20th-century couture.
2 Hamon
Observation
Tower
4 Museum
Gardens
Dont miss the remnants
of the California Midwinter International
Exposition of 1894
in the surrounding
shady walking
trails: the Pool of
Enchantment,
the vases,
and the
sphinxes
(right).
5 20thCentury
American and
Bay Area Artists
Georgia OKeeffes
Petunias is among the
contemporary masterworks on display in the
museum, while Chiura
Obata, Richard
Diebenkorn, Wayne
Thiebaud, and sculptors
Ruth Asawa and Robert
Arneson are among the
local icons featured.
de Young Museum
6 Temporary
Exhibits
Wildly popular and
requiring advance
tickets, a variety of
temporary exhibitions have included
ancient glass from
the Holy Land, Jean
Paul Gaultier
fashion, and
many more.
Kids
7 Artful
The de Young
welcomes kids to free
Saturday art classes,
summer camps, and a
monthly artist-inresidence workshop for
the whole family. Guided
tours for families are
followed by studio
workshops taught by
professional artists.
de Young Museum 29
8 American
Collection
Founded by donations
from the Rockefellers,
this comprehensive collection, from 1670 to the
present, has more than
3,000 decorative arts
objects, 800 sculptures,
and 1,000 paintings,
including Boatmen on the
Missouri by George Caleb
Bingham (left).
of the Americas
9 Art
Pre-Columbian and ancient
Native American artifacts are
displayed in these galleries, including
a stunning group of Teotihuacan
murals. The Weisel Family Collection
spans 1,000 years of Native American
objects and textiles.
A DAY AT THE
DE YOUNG
Take breaks from total
art immersion by
enjoying the indooroutdoor caf and the
rambling sculpture
garden (you can come
in and out of the
museum all day with
your ticket). Audio and
docent-led tours enrich
the experience, as do
curator talks and workshops. Art enthusiasts
ock to the Friday
Nights at the de Young
events of music, panels,
and interaction with
artists, during which
cocktails are served.
The two-level store is
stocked with art books,
exhibit programs, logo
items, and signature
jewelry, textiles, posters,
and prints relating to
the exhibits. Kids can
hang out in the toyand book-lled
childrens section.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP C4 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden
Drive, Golden Gate Park
(415) 750-3600 www.famsf.org
Open 9:30am5:15pm TueSun;
AprNov: 9:30am8:45pm Fri
San Francisco
Museum of Modern Art
Founded in 1935, the SFMOMA is devoted to collecting and
exhibiting modern and contemporary art. It is currently closed
while it undergoes a massive building expansion, offering
more public areas and educational facilities, and exible
gallery space for its growing
collection. Until its reopening
in 2016, exhibitions of the
collection will be on view at,
and given on loan to, partner
museums around the city.
Garden
American
Catwalk
1 Roof
4 Latin
6 The
Artists
Featuring a comSuspended high up
bination of well-known
and rarely seen works
from the museums
collection, this garden is
not to be missed.
2 Photography
One of the
museums strengths;
exhibits may include
masterpieces by Man
Electronic and
Ray, Ansel Adams, and
Digital Art
Edward Weston, plus
more avant-garde works. Established in 1987, the
collection includes multiExterior
media works, movingThe building was
image pieces, and video
designed by Mario Botta. installations by such artThe 125-ft (38-m)
ists as Brian Eno, Dara
truncated turret (below) Birnbaum, Bill Viola, and
is decorated with Art
Nam June Paik.
Deco-style chevrons.
7 Temporary
Exhibitions
The museums temporary
exhibition spaces may
include educational
programs, retrospective
exhibitions of the work of
contemporary artists
such as Yoko Ono and Eva
Hesse, or the photography of the Victorian
author Lewis Carroll.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP Q5 151 3rd St
(415) 357-4000 www.
sfmoma.org
Currently closed for
major renovations
until 2016.
Photography 2
Bay Area 0
Artists
Latin 4
American
Artists
Dis. access
2 Photography
8 20th-Century
European Artists
9 20th-Century
American Artists
1 Roof Garden
Exterior 3
Bay Area
Artists
9 American
Artists
Museum Guide
The museum renovation
project will see
SFMOMA increase its
size to 225,000 sq ft
(20,903 sq m). This will
include a larger gallery
for their increasing
permanent collection of
art. The third-oor outdoor sculpture terrace
will have the worlds
biggest public living
wall, in the form of a
large-scale vertical
garden. Live art, lm
screenings, and events
will take place on the
fourth oor, and a
conservation studio will
stretch over the seventh
and eighth oors.
3 MAP Q5
Moscone Center
Howard St
This building began the renovation of
the SoMa district. Most of it is underground; above ground the impression
is of glass, girders, and gardens.
4 Metreon
MAP Q4 101 4th St
Creativity
6 Childrens
Museum
MAP Q5 221 4th St (415) 820-3320
Open 104pm WedSun Dis.
access Adm www.creativity.org
This interactive technology and art
museum aims to inspire childrens
creative impulses. There are animation, design, and music studios.
Historical
7 California
Society Museum
MAP P5 678 Mission St (415) 3571848 Open noon5pm TueSun
Donations
This research organization holds vast
collections of photos, books, maps,
manuscripts, prints, and arts, some
dating as far back as the 1600s.
Jewish
9 Contemporary
Museum (CJM)
MAP P5 736 Mission St between 3rd
and 4th (415) 655-7800 Open
18pm Thu, 11am5pm FriTue
Closed Wed, Jewish hols & some
public hols Dis. access Adm
www.thecjm.org
This dynamic museum was designed
by architect Daniel Libeskind and
incorporates the landmark Jesse
Street Power Substation. Its
exhibitions help to foster relations
with the wider community.
0 Esplanade
The Esplanade comprises
garden-lined walkways, an inviting
lawn, rolling hills, trees, and
interesting sculptures. There is a free
weekly concert here during the
summer festival (www.ybae.org).
TOP 10
NOTABLE
CONSTRUCTIONS
SOUTH OF MARKET
1 AT&T Park
2 SFMOMA
3 Moscone Center
4 Yerba Buena Center
5 Rincon Center
6 Metreon
7 South Park
8 The Galleria
9 Ed Hardy
San Francisco
10 The Four Seasons
and the Marriott hotels
Mission Dolores
The Misin San Francisco de Ass acquired its popular name,
Mission Dolores, from a nearby stream, Arroyo de Nuestra
Seora de los Dolores. It is the oldest building in the city and
the oldest intact mission chapel in the chain of 21 established
under Franciscan friar Junpero Serras direction. The site was
founded in 1776. The chapel was built between 1782 and 1791,
with the labor of Ohlone people. Its adobe walls are 4 ft (1.2 m)
thick and its red-tile roofs are typical of
the Mission Style seen all over
California in both old and new buildings.
Park
1 Dolores
2 Beamed
Ceiling
One of the few
large green spaces in the
Mission District, this
park (below) is high on a
hill and affords excellent
views of the city. It was
originally the site of San
Franciscos main Jewish
cemetery, but was
transformed in 1905.
Decoration
3 Altarpieces
The reredos and
side altars came from
Mexico in the late 1700s
and early 1800s.
of
4 Stations
the Cross
These images depicting
each of the 14 Stations
of the Cross, are
distributed throughout
the basilica, and were
created by the artisan
Samuel Berger.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP F5 3321 16th St at Dolores St
(415) 621-8203 missiondolores.org
Open 9am4pm daily
Suggested donation $5 adult, $3 child
5 Chapel
The central
building (above) still
retains the original
redwood beams,
lashed together with
rawhide. The ambercolored glass in the
windows gives the
interior a warmth that
is reected off the
gold-leafed xtures.
and
6 Cemetery
Serra Statue
Mission Dolores 35
Mission
Facade
JUNPERO SERRA
AND CALIFORNIAS
MISSIONS
In 1769, Gaspar de
Portola led an
expedition to establish
missions in California,
with Father Junpero
Serra and 60 other men.
They founded Mission
San Diego, and then
worked their way up to
Monterey. Continuing
along up the coast,
within seven years
Father Serra had
established a mission
in San Francisco with
Father Francisco Palou.
In all, Father Serra
founded nine missions
in Upper California
between 1769 and
1784. His successors
went on to found 12
missions between
1786 and 1823.
and
0 Diorama
Museum
Street
Windows
8 Dolores
9 Choir
of St. Francis
Undulating like
a roller coaster, this is
one of the loveliest
streets in all of San
Francisco. Palm trees
grace its center, all
the way along the
length of it.
Jewel-like stained-glass
windows (below) depict
the life of St. Francis,
patron saint of San
Francisco. The lower
side windows depict the
21 California Missions.
3
4
9
3
5
3
0
7
1
7
8
Pegase
4 Clos
Housed in an
5 Yountville
Hot-air balloons
St. Helena
Yountville
128
Glen
Ellen
5
A IL
0
7
12
TR
29
DO
Angwin
RA
Vineyards
3 Beringer
The oldest and the most beautiful Napa Valley
Calistoga
E
LV
SI
Sterling
Vineyard
29
Sonoma
Napa
Rocktram
12
12
29
Map of
the Wine Country
Culinary Institute
6 The
of America
An impressive castle-like landmark,
built in about 1890, houses the West
Coast annex of the Culinary Institute of
America. Foodies can stock up at the
gourmet store, peruse the museum,
or enjoy cookery and wine classes. The
restaurant, with a terrace overlooking
the vineyard, serves regional cuisine
paired with appropriate wines.
7 Sonoma
This appealing town, nestled in the Valley of
the Moon (below), is lled with high-end
restaurants, small hotels, and shops. The town also
features a State Historic Park with a mission
building and structures from the early to mid-1800s.
CALIFORNIA WINE
Since 1857, winemaking has been the
mainstay of this area. A
phylloxera blight in the
early 1900s nearly put
an end to it all, but
Europe was hit harder,
and it was the resistant
California vines that
brought back the wine
business to parts of
Italy, France, and Spain.
In 1976 California wines
were put on the
international map,
when they trounced
France in a blind
taste-test in Paris. These
days, many European
producers also have
wineries in California.
0 Hess
Collection
8 Domaine
Chandon
di
9 Castello
Amorosa
Lovely gardens, a ne
restaurant, and sweeping
views complement the
sparkling, champagnestyle wines of this Mot
Hennessy showcase,
which produces 500,000
cases every year.
This re-creation of a
Medieval castle has a
moat and a drawbridge
as well as a torture
chamber. Take a guided
tour and taste V. Sattui
wines, which are
produced here.
Domaine Chandon: 1
California Drive, Yountville
(707) 944-2280
www.chandon.com
NEED TO KNOW
Beringer Vineyards: 2000
Main St, St. Helena
(707) 963-4812
www.beringer.com
Castello di Amorosa: 4045
St. Helena Hwy, Calistoga
(707) 967-6272 www.
castellodiamorosa.com
Clos Pegase: 1060
Dunaweal Lane
(707) 942-4981
www.clospegase.com
967-8800 www.napavalleyspa.com
In a serene, open-air setting, guests
can yield aches and anxiety to a
plethora of pampering and
invigorating rituals. For some, that
may mean a stimulating tness
workout, or a soothing mud wrap
and massage overlooking the
tranquil Spa Garden.
Kenwood Inn
4 The
and Spa
10400 Sonoma Hwy,
Kenwood (707) 833-1293
www.kenwoodinn.com
Nationally acclaimed as one of the
Wine Countrys most elegant and
intimate country inns, the Kenwood
consists of lovely guest suites and
a full-service spa facility. The inn
has the ambience of an Italian
country villa in the Sonoma Valley,
situated on a secluded hillside
facing over 1,000 acres (404 ha) of
vineyards. The spa offers a variety
of massage styles, including
aromatherapy and Ayurvedic.
Spa
5 Calistoga
Hot Springs
Springs Calistoga
2 Indian
1712 Lincoln Ave,
Calistoga (707) 942-4913
www.indianspringscalistoga.com
Dating from 1862, this hot springs
resort with mineral waters from
natural geysers was recently
modernized but has an old-fashioned
air about it, with an Olympic-sized
heated pool, a clay tennis court, and
professional spa and mud bath
treatments. On-site are lodge rooms
and pretty cottages with replaces,
kitchens, and air-conditioning.
Theres also a casual eatery and bar.
251-1900 www.meritageresort.com
Silence and serenity abide in this
luxury resort. The stone-walled, Old
World-style Estate Cave contains
12 treatment rooms, with whirlpools
and saunas. The four-star hotel
rooms are spacious; ask about the
special packages on offer. On site,
you will nd restaurants, a large
tness studio, and a sports bar.
Resort
8 Silverado
and Spa
1600 Atlas Peak Rd, Napa (707) 2570200 www.silveradoresort.com
On 1,200 acres (485 ha), studded by
oak trees and anchored by a historic
mansion housing restaurants and
lounges, the largest resort in the
Wine Country has two championship
golf courses, dozens of swimming
pools, and a tennis complex. The
upscale spa offers 12 rooms for top-
The Top 10 of
Everything
Moments in History
42
Historic Sites
46
Churches
48
Architectural Highlights
50
68
Museums
52
Nightlife
70
Art Galleries
54
72
56
Restaurants
74
Beaches
58
76
Outdoor Activities
60
78
62
80
64
82
Childrens Attractions
66
Moments in History
Americans
Control
1 Native
3 Spanish
There were settlements in the
About 200 years after Drakes
Bay as early as the 11th century BC,
made up of hunters and gatherers
who enjoyed a rich diet of seeds,
shellsh, and game. Historians
group these peoples into the Coast
Miwok, the Wintun, and the Ohlone.
Francis Drake
2 Sir
In 1579, the English privateer
landed near Point Reyes and claimed
Alta California for Queen Elizabeth I.
Along with other early explorers of
the area, he failed to notice the
marvelous bay just inside the straits.
England didnt follow up its claim to
Northern California, leaving it to the
Spanish to conquer.
Takeover
4 American
Impending war with Mexico in
the 1840s inspired US leaders to
arouse the interest of Bay Area
settlers in joining the Union. In 1846,
a party of Yankees in Sonoma
declared Californias independence
from Mexico, christening it the Bear
Flag Republic. Shortly after,
Commodore John Sloat claimed
California as US territory.
Rush Days
5 Gold
In 1848 landowner John Sutter
Moments in History 43
city to see. The subsequent stampede of 49ers turned the city into a
boomtown overnight.
TOP 10 SCANDALS
AND DISASTERS
Fargo
6 Wells
The stagecoaches of Wells
Fargo & Co began carrying freight
and passengers in 1852, taking full
advantage of the momentum created
by the Gold Rush. It was also
instrumental in the development of
the Pony Express (see p53).
7 Panama-Pacific
Exposition
Held in 1915 to celebrate the opening
of the Panama Canal, the real raison
dtre for the festivities was that San
Franciscans had resurrected their
city after the 1906 disaster.
and Golden
8 Bay
Gate Bridges
The inauguration of the Bay Bridge
in 1936 heralded the end of the age
of ferryboats by linking the city to the
East Bay. The inauguration of the
Golden Gate Bridge (see pp1213)
took place a year later.
of Love
9 Summer
San Francisco counterculture
burst forth in the summer of 1967.
Hippies were everywhere, and the
poetic music that embodied a new
way of thinking lled the air. It was
a sociopolitical shift that went on
to affect the whole world.
Politics
0 Modern
California has always
Dianne
Feinstein
Writers and
Notable Residents
Randolph
4 William
Hearst
A amboyant publisher of the San
Francisco Examiner who built the
nations largest newspaper chain in
the late 1800s, Hearst (18631951)
inuenced the American press with
his yellow journalism tactics, built
Hearst Castle, served twice in the
House of Representatives, and
inspired the movie Citizen Kane.
Kerouac
1 Jack
Arriving from New York in
1947, it was Kerouac (192269) who
coined the term Beat. He and his
companions Neal Cassady, Allen
Ginsberg, Lawrence Ferlinghetti,
and others initiated the new
politics of dissent and free love
that led, within a decade, to
the hippie movement (see p43).
His novel On the Road (1957)
galvanized a generation.
Ford Coppola
5 Francis
The director of The Godfather
makes San Francisco the home of
his American Zoetrope productions,
and has also branched out into other
enterprises. His Inglenook winery in
the Napa Valley is one of the best.
London
6 Jack
Adventurer and author
Williams
3 Robin
A resident of the Bay Area
Hammett
7 Dashiell
The author of The Maltese
Falcon and creator of the classic
hard-boiled detective Sam Spade
lived in San Francisco from 1921 to
1929. He used the fog-swirled slopes
of the hills as the backdrop for his
crime stories. Hammett (18941961)
was himself employed briey at the
famous Pinkerton Detective Agency.
Santana
9 Carlos
A Mexican-American who
grew up in San Francisco and was
inuenced by Bay Area 1960s jazz
and folk musicians, Santana founded
a band that pioneered Afro-Latinblues-rock fusion at the Fillmore
West, in other area clubs, and at
Woodstock. He went on to top the
Billboard charts for decades, selling
more than 100 million records.
Janis Joplin
1 Janis Joplin
This troubled singer from Texas was
the queen of the San Francisco sound,
until her death by heroin overdose.
2 Ken Kesey
A powerful, revolutionary writer, his
Magic Bus and Trips Festival set the
tone for the entire hippie movement.
3 Jerry Garcia
Patriarch of the San Francisco sound,
his Grateful Dead band continued to
tour until his death in 1995.
4 Mario Savio
The UC Berkeley student launched the
Free Speech Movement on the campus
in the late 1960s.
5 Owsley Stanley
Stanley manufactured mass quantities
of LSD and was the most famous
source of pure LSD in the 1960s.
6 Grace Slick
The other queen of the San Francisco
sound, fronting Jefferson Airplane.
7 Huey Newton
Oaklands founder of the Black
Panthers, a group committed to
change, by violence if necessary.
8 Patty Hearst
The newspaper heiress, kidnapped by
the Symbionese Liberation Army in
1974, apparently converted and took
part in an armed robbery.
9 Jim Jones
Leader of a cult that moved en masse
to South America. He ended his days
and those of some 900 followers in
1978, in a mass suicide caused by
drinking cyanide-laced Kool-Aid.
10 Charles Manson
This commune leader and his followers
murdered actress Sharon Tate in 1969.
Historic Sites
Dolores
1 Mission
This 18th-century Spanish
Presidio
4 The
More than 350 buildings,
mission, the areas earliest settlement, is worth a visit for its tranquillity and for an education on
the citys history (see pp345).
the citys oldest, loveliest buildings. One of the few areas spared
in the 1906 conagration (see p88).
Hill
3 Nob
Home to historic hotels
Memorial
5 War
Opera House
Square
2 Jackson
This area contains some of
Huntington Park
Fountain, Nob Hill
Historic Sites 47
Beach
6 North
This entire area resonates with
7 Haight-Ashbury
The matrix of yet another
bohemian movement that San
Francisco has given birth to, this
area nurtured idealistic hippies
in the late 1960s. They brought
international awareness to
alternative ways of life, living in
harmony with nature (see p104).
Auditorium
8 Fillmore
MAP E3 1805 Geary Blvd
Building
9 Ferry
Marketplace
Once the tallest building in the
city, with a 235-ft- (71.6-m-) high
clock tower modeled after the
Giralda tower in Seville, in 1898
this was the headquarters of
countless streetcars and ferryboats.
Fireboat crews saved the tower from
the 1906 re. Now, its a huge food
hall and marketplace (see p78).
Point National
0 Fort
Historic Site
MAP C1 Marine Drive
At this much-photographed site
under the Golden Gate Bridge,
swords, guns, and cannons are on
view at a fortication that was built
during the Civil War to protect the
city from an attack by sea, which
never came. Rangers and costumed
docents give free tours of the
gunpowder storehouse, the
barracks, and the museum.
John Muir
1 Junpero Serra
This 18th-century Spanish cleric
traveled up and down California
establishing missions, including
Mission Dolores (see p34).
2 John C. Fremont
Instrumental in the US annexation of
California in the mid-1800s, it was
Fremont who dubbed the Bay strait
the Golden Gate.
3 John Muir
A keen promoter of the National Parks
movement. The Muir Woods are
named in his honor (see p64).
4 Leland Stanford
One of the Big Four who
masterminded the Transcontinental
Railroad, he also founded Stanford
University (see p126).
5 Mark Hopkins
Another of the Big Four who struck it
super-rich and lived on Nob Hill.
6 Charles Crocker
Another of the Big Four. The Crocker
Galleria recalls his legacy (see p78).
7 A. P. Giannini
Founder in 1904 of the Bank of Italy,
later the Bank of America, Giannini
nanced the Golden Gate Bridge.
8 Harvey Milk
The rst openly gay politician to
become a member of the Board of
Supervisors was assassinated in 1978.
9 Dianne Feinstein
One of the movers and shakers of San
Francisco politics in recent decades,
she became a US Senator in 1992.
10 Jerry Brown
The rst three-term Governor of
California and former Mayor of
Oakland also ran for US President.
Churches
like for the Native Americans who
built this Spanish mission in the 18th
century (see pp345).
Patricks Cathedral
5 St.
MAP Q4 756 Mission St
Memorial United
6 Glide
Methodist Church
Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption
of St. Mary of
1 Cathedral
the Assumption
MAP F3 1111 Gough St (415) 5672020 Services: 6:45am, 8am,
12:10pm MonFri; 6:45am, 8am Sat;
7:30am, 9am, 11am, 1pm (Spanish),
5:30pm Sun Dis. access
This 1971 building has been
compared to a giant washing
machine; inside is equally odd, with
stained-glass strips and a sculpture
of aluminum rods (see p50).
Cathedral
2 Grace
The Notre Dame of San
Peter and
7 Saints
Paul Church
North Beachs Italian Cathedral
was once called the Marzipan
Church for the stucco decoration on
its soaring pinnacles. Inside, there is
a sculpted reproduction of Leonardo
da Vincis Last Supper (see p92).
Marks
3 St.
Lutheran Church
MAP P1 1111 OFarrell St
(415) 928-7770 Services:
6:45pm Wed; 9am, 11am Sun
www.sfmarks-sf.org
This 1894 pink-brick church is a
mixture of Gothic and Romanesque
styles. After the 1906 earthquake
(see p43), it served as a rst-aid
station and shelter.
Dolores
4 Mission
Photos and a diorama offer a
stirring impression of what life was
Churches 49
of St. Francis
8 Shrine
of Assisi
MAP M4 610 Vallejo St at Columbus
(415) 986-4557 Services: 12:15pm
MonSat, 10am Sun
www.shrinesf.org
Declared a National Historic
Landmark, the Gothic Revival St.
Francis of Assisi Church was
established on June 17, 1849, as the
rst parish church in California. The
interior is adorned with 11 largerthan-life murals, depicting the works
of San Franciscos patron saint.
John Coltrane
9 St.
African Orthodox Church
MAP F3 St. Pauls Lutheran Church,
1286 Fillmore St (415) 673-7144
Services: noon Sun
www.coltranechurch.org
My music is the spiritual expression
of what I am. So said jazz musician
St. John Coltrane. Services consist of
a performance of his A Love Supreme
by the band Ohnedaruth and the
Sisters of Compassion choir.
Unitarian
0 First
Universalist Church
MAP P1 1187 Franklin St (415)
776-4580 Services: 11am Sun
www.uusf.org
Since 1850, this church has been a
progressive voice in San Francisco.
Welcoming all faiths and creeds, this
congregation is not bound by dogma,
but by shared values.
4 Vedanta Temple
MAP M5 2323 Vallejo St
This was the rst Hindu temple (1905)
in the western US.
5 Zen Center
MAP F4 300 Page St
Home to the citys Zen practitioners.
6 Crystal Way
MAP F5 2335 Market St
Healing through crystals, light, sound,
and positive thinking are explored.
7 Botanica Yoruba
All the Santera paraphernalia youll
need (see p112).
8 Spirit Rock Meditation Center
5000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd,
Woodacre, Marin
This center helps people nd peace
through meditation.
9 The Love of Ganesha
MAP E4 1310 Haight St
Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts.
10 Open Secret
923 C St, San Rafael
The backroom of this New Age venue
is like a temple to all the worlds deities.
Architectural Highlights
in 1972. The color was a mistake
the granite that faces it was
supposed to be pink, not brown, but
by the time the delivery was made, it
was too late to change it.
Gallery
4 Xanadu
MAP P4 140 Maiden Lane
of Fine Arts
5 Palace
MAP E1 3301 Lyon St (415)
563-6504 www.palaceonearts.org
This Neo-Classical building, today
used for shows, was designed by
Bernard Maybeck for the Pan-Pacic
Exposition of 1915 and inspired by
the engravings of Giovanni Piranesi.
Staircase of City Hall, Civic Center
Pyramid
2 Transamerica
MAP N5 600 Montgomery St
Marys Cathedral
6 St.
Some critics dismiss this
parabolic form, but the soaring
curves take attention upward, in the
same way that tracery and vaulting
do in Gothic cathedrals (see p48).
Tower
7 Coit
Perched on Telegraph Hill, this
Art Deco sentinel takes the form of a
giant uted column. Reminiscent of
Renaissance towers, the column is
210 ft (64 m) tall and is perforated
of America
3 Bank
MAP N5 555 California St
Architectural Highlights 51
around the top with arched openings
and windows, which visitors can
reach by elevator for stunning views
of the city (see p92).
Cathedral
8 Grace
The third largest Episcopal
church in the US was executed in
the medieval French Gothic style,
echoing in particular Notre Dame
in Paris, yet accomplished using
steel-reinforced concrete (see p87).
3 Coit Tower
Depression-era murals decorate the
lobby (see p92).
4 Fort Mason
MAP J1 Franklin St
Oliver DiCiccos Bow Seat pays homage
to small boats that have worked the Bay.
5 Womens Building
MAP F5 18th St between Valencia
& Guerrero
The work of seven women painters
graces the facade.
6 Bikeway
MAP F4 Duboce St between
Church & Market
This mural chronicles a bike ride from
Downtown to Ocean Beach.
7 Beach Chalet
MAP A4 1000 Great Hwy
Depression-era murals depicting
famous citizens of San Francisco.
Grace Cathedral
House
9 Haas-Lilienthal
MAP M1 2007 Franklin St
8 Rincon Center
MAP H2 Mission, Howard, Steuart
& Spear Sts
These 1948 murals by Russian Anton
Refregier trace Californian history.
9 Financial District
The black-stone Transcendence is in
front of the Bank of America.
10 Golden Gate Park
The Music Concourse is home to many
sculptures, including the bronze Apple
Cider Press (see pp245).
Square
0 Alamo
MAP E4
With a Downtown backdrop and a
sweeping greensward below, these
vividly hued late 1800s Victorian
mansions (or Painted Ladies) are
on the 700 block of Steiner Street.
The surrounding streets boast gems
built between the 1870s and 1920s.
Museums
Young Museum
1 de
A bastion of American,
Oceanian, and African art, the de
Young is a landmark in Golden Gate
Park, topped by a 144-ft (44-m)
observation tower. Founded with
pieces from the 1894 California
Midwinter Fair, the Oceanic and
African groupings have been
expanded with private collections.
There is a sculpture garden and a
collection of American art from
colonial times to the 20th century
(see pp289).
Academy
2 California
of Sciences
The environmentally friendly
architecture of the Academy building,
which emphasizes ecological and
sustainable features, blends with
the natural surroundings of the
park. The museum covers virtually
every aspect of the natural world
(see p25 and pp267).
of Honor
3 Legion
MAP B3 Lincoln Park, 34th
Korean costume,
Asian Art Musuem
Art Museum
4 Asian
MAP R2 200 Larkin St
Museums 53
transformation of Buddhist art
from India and outward into the
entire Far East. Included is the
fabulous Avery Brundage collection
of Oriental jade.
Francisco Museum
5 San
of Modern Art
In 2016, a greatly expanded SFMOMA
will open in the South of Market
museum district. New additions
include admission-free public areas,
outdoor terraces, seven levels of
20th-century art, a caf, and a large
gift shop (see pp3031).
Francisco Museum
6 San
of Craft and Design
MAP H5 2569 Third St (415) 7730303 Open 11am6pm TueSat,
noon5pm Sun Closed major
public hols Adm www.sfmcd.org
This one-of-a-kind museum
celebrates and promotes contemporary craft and design through
innovative exhibitions and educational programs. Many lectures, special
shows, and programs are organized
to engage children, all designed to
stimulate creativity. There is also a
great museum store with many
original, handmade pieces for sale.
Jewish
9 Contemporary
Museum
MAP G3 736 Mission St (415) 6557800 Open 11am5pm FriTue,
11am8pm Thurs Adm www.
thecjm.org
Across the street from Yerba Buena
Gardens, this charming 1907 Willis
Polk-designed power substation has
been adapted by architect Daniel
Libeskind, with soaring black glass
blocks fronting the plaza. The small
collection of contemporary and
ancient Jewish artistic, historical,
and cultural items is augmented by
ever-changing exhibits encompassing political art, iconic Jewish
gures, immigration, architecture,
modern Israel, and more.
Fargo
7 Wells
History Museum
MAP N5 420 Montgomery St
(415) 396-2619 Open 9am5pm
MonFri www.wells fargohistory.
com/museums
Tales of the robbers who held up
Wells Fargo stagecoaches are the
stuff of legend. Exhibits here include
Pony Express mail, gold nuggets, and
Emperor Nortons currency (see p43).
of
8 Society
California Pioneers
MAP R5 300 4th St (415) 957-1849
Open 9amnoon TueFri Adm
www.californiapioneers.org
This museum displays a fascinating
collection of historical exhibits from
19th- and 20th-century California.
The upstairs gallery features an
annually rotating exhibition of items
from the private collection.
Museum
0 Maritime
MAP F1 900 Beach St,
Art Galleries
Art Gallery
Heritage
1 City
3 Pacific
Museum
MAP F5 828 Valencia St
Wendi Norris
2 Gallery
MAP P3 161 Jessie St (415)
Cultural Center
4 SoMarts
MAP G4 934 Brannan St
Gallery
5 Fraenkel
MAP P4 49 Geary St
Fraenkel Gallery
Art Galleries 55
media, juxtaposing photography with
painting, drawing, and sculpture.
Other photographers whose work
is regularly shown include Richard
Avedon and Man Ray.
6 MAP P5
655 Mission St
(415) 227-8666 Open 11am5pm
TueSun Adm www.cartoonart.
org
With an endowment from Peanuts
creator, the late Charles M. Schulz,
the museum is the only one in the
US dedicated to cartoon art in all
its forms. The museums collection
has approximately 6,000 pieces.
Italo Americano
7 Museo
MAP F1 Fort Mason Center,
Francisco Arts
0 San
Commission Gallery
MAP R1 401 Van Ness Ave
(415) 554-6080 Open noon5pm
WedSat www.sfartscommission.
org/gallery
Opened in 1970, this was one of the
rst galleries dedicated to showing
the work of emerging Bay Area
artists. In addition, the Gallery
Slide Registry contains images by
more than 500 professional artists
from across the US.
TH
AD
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Street
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AR
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BU
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RUSSIAN
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STREE
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TAYLOR
UN IO N
(415)
826-8009 Open noon6pm TueSat
www.galeriadelaraza.org
Bimonthly exhibitions of MexicanAmerican art include painters,
cartoonists, performance artists,
muralists, or digital installations.
LO M B
CASTRO ST
de la Raza
8 Galera
MAP G5 2857 24th St
San
Fra n c is co
Ba y
FISHERMAN'S
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Green
1 Marina
MAP E1
Mason
3 Fort
MAP F1
Gate Park
2 Golden
One of the largest city parks in
the US is also one of the most
diverse, and all of it brought forth
from what was once scrub and
dunes. The park also features rstrate cultural attractions such as the
de Young Museum (see pp289).
The Presidio
Presidio
4 The
This vast swath of greenery
only entered the citys parklands in
1994. It is a beautiful space, and
tourists and locals alike come to
enjoy the wooded areas, walking
trails, and wonderful views over the
Bay (see pp989). It is also home to
chic restaurants and museums.
Filmmaker George Lucas created a
$350 million headquarters here for
his production company Lucaslm
and up to 1,500 employees (see p46).
of Flowers
5 Conservatory
MAP D4
Shipped around Cape Horn from
England and erected in Golden Gate
Park in 1879, this magnicent vestory Victorian greenhouse contains
a jungle of trees, palms, exotic
plants, and owers. There are
thousands of orchids, an enchanting
buttery enclosure, and lily ponds.
Plaza
6 Alta
MAP E2
This double block of verdant hill in
Pacic Heights is a popular place to
take the sun when it ventures to
break through the fog. Basketball
and tennis courts and a childrens
playground are in the center, while to
the south there are terraced lawns,
onto which face some of the oldest
homes in Pacic Heights.
Park
8 Rincon
Map H2
Situated just south of the Ferry
Building Marketplace on the
Embarcadero pedestrian
promenade, Cupids Span, a 60-ft(18-m-) tall sculpture of a redfeathered bow and arrow, marks
the location of this bayside park.
The lawns and benches afford
awesome views of the San
FranciscoOakland Bay Bridge,
the city skyline, and passing ships.
Park
9 Lafayette
MAP F2
This is another of the doubleblocked hilltop gardens in Pacic
Heights a leafy green haven of
pine and eucalyptus trees. Steep
stairways lead to the summit of the
park, which has delightful views.
The city did not manage to set
aside these oases without a ght.
Squatters buildings occupied some
of the land in the center of this park
until as late as 1936, when they were
nally pulled down, liberating the
lush gardens for all to enjoy.
Buena Gardens
7 Yerba
In the South of Market
museum district, surrounding the
Yerba Buena Center for the Arts, are
lawns, shade trees, gardens, and
water features, which create a
verdant setting for whimsical
outdoor sculptures. Dont miss the
50-ft- (15-m-) wide Martin Luther
King, Jr. waterfall (see pp323).
Stern
0 Sigmund
Recreation Grove
Famous for its free summer
concerts, Sigmund Stern Recreation
Grove is a leafy recreation complex
containing playing elds, tennis
and croquet courts, as well as a
playground, and a dog park. Pine
Lake is popular for jogging around,
and there are plenty of good picnic
spots under the eucalyptus,
redwood, and pine trees.
Beaches
walking shoes to get down the
rough paths that lead to them
from the parking lots.
Beach
3 China
MAP B2
Ofcially called James D. Phelan
Beach, this is the poshest beach in
San Francisco, being an adjunct to
the exclusive Sea Cliff neighborhood.
Despite its pedigree, California law
requires that all coastal areas
remain public, although access roads
to them can be private. China Beach
is small and protected from the
wind, theres plenty of parking, and
its a pleasant walk to the sand. Youll
nd showers and changing rooms.
Popular sands of Stinson Beach
Beach
1 Stinson
Three miles (5 km) of sand,
coupled with the fact that Marin
County often has ne weather when
the rest of the coast is covered in fog,
make this one of the most popular
beaches in the Bay Area. It can be
crowded when its sunny (see p126).
and Red
2 Muir
Rock Beaches
Muir Beach: o Hwy 1 on Pacic Way
Red Rock: 5.5 miles (9 km) north of
Muir on Pacic Way
These two beaches, just south of
Stinson, are the most famous nude
beaches north of San Francisco.
Both are sandy curves within their
own coves, protected from wind and
prying eyes by rocky cliffs. The only
caveat is that youll need sturdy
The clis overlooking Muir Beach
Beaches
4 Pacifica
Hwy 1
A 20-minute drive south of the city
are several Pacic Ocean beaches
popular with surfers, swimmers, and
families. A favorite of beginner
surfers, Linda Mar Beach has
restrooms and showers, and
connects by a breezy trail to
Rockaway Beach. Sharp Park Beach
has picnic sites, a shing pier with a
caf, parking, and nature trails.
Beach
5 Bolinas
This hidden-away Marin beach
tends to be windy and is mostly used
by dog-walkers and kayakers. Its
sandy, with a backdrop of rocky cliffs.
If you walk north, youll nd
sheltered nooks, where some sunworshippers bask in the nude,
although there is a rarely enforced
city ordinance against it (see p127).
Beaches 59
Beach
6 Baker
MAP C2
Park
9 Aquatic
MAP F1
Shielded by a horseshoe-shaped
shing pier, this is a man-made
lagoon near Fishermans Wharf, with
a calm cove, a sandy beach, a stepped
seawall for lounging, restrooms, and
a paved walkway making it accessible
to wheelchairs and bikes. This is the
number-one spot from which to
watch the Fourth of July reworks
and Fleet Week aerial shows.
Beach
7 Ocean
Some 4 miles (6.5 km) long
Beach
0 East
MAP D1
8 Marshalls
Beach
MAP C1
Also known as Lands
End Beach, diminutive
Marshalls Beach is
secluded almost beneath
the Golden Gate Bridge,
with stunning sea views
and good sightings of
seabirds. Be aware that
this is the only nude beach
in the city, and frequented
by gay residents and
freethinkers. Access is via
the steep Batteries to
Bluffs Trail, or from the
north end of Baker Beach.
101
580
Bolinas
San
Francisco
Bay
Stinson Beach
Mill Valley
Muir Beach
Tiburon
Sausalito
101
80
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101
Outdoor Activities
catamaran, or sailboat. Fun to watch
are the frequent regattas and boating
events, from Opening Day on the Bay
to Fleet Week and the Fourth of July.
Skating
4 In-line
Golden Gate Park and in-line
1 Hiking
5 Running
Bay to Breakers: 3rd Sun in May
The Bay Area is replete with
magnicent hiking trails for every
type of nature-lover. Lands End
offers some wild terrain to scramble
over (see p119), and Mount Tamalpais
is crisscrossed with trails (see p126),
but just scaling the citys hills is
enough hiking for most people.
2 Swimming
MAP H2 Embarcadero YMCA:
3 Sailing
www.ocscsailing.com
Charter a yacht or a masted
schooner, take sailing lessons, or
tour the Bay on a motor cruiser,
Sailing in
the Bay
6 Tennis
San Francisco Recreation and
Park Department: (415) 831-2700
Golden Gate Park: (415) 753-7001
Contact the Recreation and Park
Department for your nearest free
public tennis court. Golden Gate
Park courts charge a small fee, but
you can book in advance. Most public
outdoor courts are open from
sunrise to sunset. Indoor courts are
the purview of private tennis clubs,
with membership required.
Outdoor Activities 61
7 Golf
Golden Gate Park: (415) 7518987 Lincoln Park: (415) 221-9911
Presidio Golf Course: (415) 561-4661
TPC Harding Park: (415) 664-4690
TPC Harding Park has been modernized for professional tournaments,
and Presidio Golf Course is among
the best in the country. Locals love
Lincoln Park, an affordable track
above Lands End; the par 3 Golden
Gate Park Golf Course; and the ninehole Gleneagles Golf Course.
4 Oakland Athletics
(510) 638-0500
Historic winners of the American
Football League in the 1970s.
Biking near the Golden Gate Bridge
9 Boating
Sailing, rowing, and kayaking
are all great here, although far from
easy on the Bays unpredictable
waters and in its sometimes
ferocious winds. Play it safe by
taking a boat out on Stow Lake in
Golden Gate Park (see p24).
0 Windsurfing
The Bay is one of the most
popular windsurng and kiteboarding sites in the world, creating
excitement for spectators along the
shoreline, too. Boardsports shops
offer lessons and rentals.
5 Oakland Raiders
(800) 724-3377
American Football League team.
6 Golden Gate Fields
1100 Eastshore Highway, Berkeley
(510) 559-7300
The East Bay venue for horse-racing.
8 Sonoma Raceway
Hwys 37 & 121, Sonoma
(707) 938-8448
Superbike and auto-racing in the
Sonoma Valley.
10 Sacramento Kings
Power Balance Pavilion, 1
Sports Parkway, Sacramento
(916) 928-0000
Mens NBA basketball team.
Street Steps
Variety
1 Lyon
4 Cliffs
MAP E2 Lyon St at Broadway
MAP E5 479 Castro St
How Temple
2 Tin
MAP N4 125 Waverly
(415)
431-5365 Open 9am8pm MonFri,
9:30am8pm Sat, 11am6pm Sun
www.clisvariety.com
Since 1936, this store in the heart of
the Castro has been an emporium of
hardware, quirky decor and kitchen
utensils, toys, old-fashioned candy,
and surprises. Local gay residents
come for costumes, wigs, tiaras, and
boas; tourists come for souvenirs
and people-watching.
Jeremiah OBrien
5 SS
MAP F1 Pier 45 (415)
Music at Glide
7 Gospel
Memorial Church
Crowds gather every Sunday at 9am
and 11am for the joyful noise of
services at Glide Memorial United
Methodist Church. With a 125-voice
gospel choir singing jazz, blues, and
rock and roll, plus an audience made
up of all ages, races, and religions,
the emotional scene is set for the
amboyant Reverend Cecil Williams,
who welcomes all comers (see p48).
Row
9 Cottage
MAP F3 Between Sutter &
and Bowling
8 Yachting
in the Park
Sculptures
0 Presidio
MAP D2 www.presidio.gov
3 miles
ID
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GEA R Y
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CHINA
BASIN
Woods
1 Muir
Muir Woods National
Monument (415) 388-2595
Open 8amsunset daily Adm
www.nps.gov/muwo
At the foot of Mount Tamalpais (see
p126), this 550-acre (222-ha)
woodland is home to one of the few
remaining rst-growth groves of
redwoods. The oldest of these giants
is at least 1,000 years old. Such trees
once covered the coastal area of
California. The woods are named in
honor of John Muir, the 19th-century
conservationist (see p47).
Basin Redwoods
2 Big
State Park
Highway 9 is one of the most
picturesque drives in the Bay Area,
Peninsula
4 Monterey
Day-trippers head to Monterey
for its world-class aquarium, to shop
and eat on Cannery Row (made
famous by John Steinbeck), and to
ramble along the shores of Point
Lobos State Natural Reserve.
Carmel-by-the Sea is full of
quaint cottages, art galleries, and
boutique shops, as well as having a
picturesque beach. Golfers make
pilgrimages to see legendary Pebble
Beach and Spanish Bay golf clubs,
and to play at Bayonet Black Horse
and Pacic Grove courses.
Big Basin Redwoods State Park oers creek and forest environments
University
6 Stanford
Located just 30 minutes south
of the city, with a Caltrain depot right
at the main gates, the palm-lined
beauty of this campus makes it
worth a trip (see p126). The visual
motif of sandstone and red-tile roofs
has been carried forward since the
Romanesque Quadrangle was built
in the late 1800s. The ornate
carvings that decorate the arches
and pillars are extraordinarily lovely,
setting off the elaborate mosaic
that graces the facade of the
Memorial Church.
Moon Bay
7 Half
This charming Victorian-era
town is fringed with long, sandy
beaches that are perfect for strolling
and surng. Half Moon Bay State
Beach is actually made up of 3 miles
(5 km) of adjacent beaches, alongside which the Coastside Trail runs.
The local ower farms and busy
shing port are photogenic, while
fresh seafood, art galleries, and
country stores add to the mix.
Coast
0 Sonoma
The Tides Wharf: 835 Coast
Highway One (707) 875-3652
About an hours scenic drive from
the city rewards with sandy beaches,
rocky coves, and the shermans
village of Bodega Bay. From the deck
or a window table at the Tides Wharf
seafood restaurant, watch harbor
seals play and shermen unload
their catches, then take a drive along
world-famous Highway 1, stopping
off at Sonoma Coast beaches.
29
Sonoma
Novato
Vallejo
37
San
Rafael
580
80
Bolinas
Concord
Berkeley
80
Muir Beach
San
Francisco
Hayward
880
Fremont
Palo Alto
Pescadero
84
Reyes
9 Point
Some 110 sq miles (285 sq km)
San
Jose
280
Saratoga
Boulder
Creek
Pacific
Ocean
580
Oakland
San
Francisco
Bay
San 92
Mateo
Half Moon
Bay
680
Oakland
SAN
FRANCISCO
Cruz
8 Santa
This beach resort has always
Napa
101
85
Los
Gatos
17
Santa Cruz
Watsonville
Monterey
Bay
0 km
25
Monterey
0 miles
25
Seaside
Childrens Attractions
Creativity
1 Childrens
Museum
This elaborate complex, aimed both
at entertaining kids and spurring
their creativity to the max, is part of
the greater Yerba Buena Gardens.
Theres an old-fashioned carousel; a
labyrinth; a studio where they can
script, produce, and star in their own
videos; art studios; and a digital
workshop, plus lots more to keep
them busy all day long. Suitable for
those aged 5 to 18 (see p32).
Museum
4 Randall
MAP E4 199 Museum Way,
5 Alcatraz
The Rock is always a hit with
older children, particularly those
who enjoy the grim, quasi-military
aspects of the place. The wildness of
the islands natural beauty, as well
Childrens Attractions 67
as the ferry ride out and back, will
also delight. Smaller kids may nd it
a bit frightening (see pp1821).
Area Discovery
6 Bay
Museum
7 Exploratorium
Kids can experience one of
the nest San Francisco interactive
days at this superb science museum
at Pier 15. Theyll learn all about
their senses and how they work, as
well as delve into all the laws of
physics through rst-hand experiments, like making simple circuit
boards. The top draw, however, is the
Tactile Dome, a dark sphere in which
you feel your way along, touching a
range of sensorially stimulating
objects and textures (see p88).
0 Metreon
Intended as a bustling, highMaking circuit boards, Exploratorium
Gate Park
8 Golden
Playground
At the southeastern corner of the
park, kids will love the old carousel,
a treehouse, and some great swings,
Memorial Opera
1 War
House and San
Francisco Ballet
M. Davies
2 Louise
Symphony Hall
MAP R1 201 Van Ness Ave
(415) 864-6000
With performances from September
through to May, under the
directorship of Michael
Tilson Thomas, the
San Francisco
Symphony
Orchestra
performs in this
modern structure
with its carefully
modulated
acoustics. Built
in 1980, this
curving, glassfronted concert hall
is loved and loathed in
equal measure by locals.
Its corner placement is
set off by a Henry Moore
bronze sculpture, which
has also had its fair
share of detractors.
Auditorium
3 Masonic
MAP N3 1111 California St
(415) 776-7457
Originally a Masonic Temple, built in
1957, this attractive structure, with
its 3,000-seat auditorium, is used as
a venue for jazz performances,
lectures, and readings, as well as
conventions and seminars. Mosaics
inside and out depict some of the
tenets of Freemasonry.
Theater
4 Curran
MAP P3 445 Geary St
Blanket
5 Beach
Babylon
MAP L4 Club Fugazi, 678
Green St (415) 421-4222
High camp and high
headdresses, along with
jolly good singing by the
veteran ensemble cast,
make this one of the joys of
the city. Its been zinging the
heartstrings of lovers of
Singer, Beach Blanket Babylon
Theatre
6 Orpheum
MAP R2 1192 Market St
Conservatory
9 American
Theater (ACT)
MAP P3 Geary Theater, 415 Geary
St (415) 749-2228 www.act-sf.org
Founded in the 1960s, San Franciscos
most important theater company is
internationally respected and has
produced premieres of a number of
major plays. At the heart of ACT is
one of the most acclaimed actortraining institutions in the nation
former students include Annette
Bening and Winona Ryder.
Theatre
0 Magic
MAP F1 Fort Mason Center,
N ST RE ET
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1 Taylor St
(415) 551-2000 www.shnsf.com
This former movie house, designed
with Moorish inuences in the 1920s,
BROA
ER
8 MAP Q3
UNION
WEBST
RD ST
CO
POLK
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7 SFJAZZ
MAP R1 205 Franklin St
B AY
HYDE
Orpheum Theatre
0 yards
800
Nightlife
The Tonga Room and Hurricane Bar oer a South Sea Island theme
of the Hill
4 Bottom
Open seven days a week in
Dentons
5 Harry
Starlight Room
MAP P4 Sir Francis Drake Hotel, 450
Powell St at Sutter (415) 395-8595
Something for the 40-plus set, or
even 50-plus, and those who enjoy
dancing, good views, and great
cocktails. Twenty-one stories above
3 Mezzanine
Located in the SoMa district,
industrial-chic Mezzanine comprises
one large room with a long bar and a
concrete dance oor. Mezzanine
hosts live music from touring indie
bands, esoteric hip-hop acts, and
visiting DJs, such as Juan Maclean
and the Three 6 Maa (see p114).
Nightlife 71
Union Square, couples can dance to
jazz and the milder R&B hits, and
relax in the easy sophistication of
this place. The theme is 1930sstylish, so consider it a chance to
dress up in smart suits and party
dresses, sip highballs, and enjoy
the citys seductive lights.
365 Club
6 Bimbos
MAP K3 1025 Columbus Ave
(415) 474-0365
Whether you are into swing, jazz,
rock, or grunge, this San Francisco
institution delivers. A retro-chic yet
unpretentious music venue since
1931, this hopping bar with glittering
decor and an old-school feel brings
in all the top acts.
7 Supperclub
Changes venue every 36
months (415) 348-0900
www.supperclub-sf.com
If ultra-chic surroundings are what
you are looking for, then this is the
club for you San Francisco at its
trendiest. It attracts a young and
sexy crowd. Whether you are after
dancing or highly original performances, this is the place. The pricey
cover charge is worth it.
Comedy Club
0 Punchline
MAP M5 444 Battery St
(415) 397-7573
A perfect alternative to bar-hopping,
there is no better venue for a good
laugh than this hilarious comedy
club. National acts (and local ones
too) headline a fun evening in
an intimate setting, with all the
seating up close to the stage. Its
best to buy tickets in advance to
ensure seating.
RE
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17TH
17TH
17TH
15T H
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MISSION
STREET
STREET
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16TH
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0 meters
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Dick
1 Moby
MAP E5 4049 18th St
(415)
861-1199 www.mobydicksf.com
This old-time Castro hangout
attracts a more mature crowd. Its
generally a bunch of regulars getting
together for pinball or pool. The
windows are big, so you can keep
track of whats going down on the
street. The music is largely 1980s
retro, which sets a fun-loving tone.
500
500
SF
2 Eagle
MAP G4 398 12th St
Lion Pub
3 The
MAP E3 2062 Divisadero St
4 Harveys
MAP E5 500 Castro St at
5 Martunis
MAP F4 4 Valencia St at
6 Badlands
MAP E5 4121 18th St
(415) 626-9320
Its old, dingy interior used to live up
to its menacing name, but no more
since it has gone all slick and shiny.
Still, its a big draw for the under-40
set. The Sunday afternoon beer bust
(49pm) is, for many, the most
happening event of the week.
Midnight Sun
8 The
MAP E5 4067 18th St
(415) 861-4186
This popular, posy video bar lls up
quickly after ofce hours and stays
that way until the wee hours. Mostly
frequented by good-looking 20- and
30-somethings, its more about
being admired than making
connections here, so its best to go
with a friend or two, have a drink,
and then move on to some livelier
venue. The video screens show a
mix of music clips and TV sitcoms.
Drinks are two for one until 9pm
every day of the week.
Lounge
9 Lush
MAP F3 1221 Polk St at
7 MAP E5
Twin Peaks
401 Castro St
(415) 864-9470
Conveniently located on the corner of
Market Street, this legendary and
distinctive tavern offers one of the
best views of the Castro, whether by
day or night. The interior is an
inviting, pillowed triangular space
with plate-glass windows.
Club
0 Lexington
MAP F5 3464 19th St at
Restaurants
1 Quince
Run by Michelin-starred chef
Michael Tusk, Quince is considered
by many to be the best restaurant in
the city. It serves dish after dish of
beautiful Californian fare, inuenced
by northern Italy and made with the
freshest local ingredients (see p95).
2 Gitane
Worth a visit as much for its
dramatic, gypsy bordello atmosphere
as for its delicious Iberian entres.
Drawing on the rich cuisines of
Portugal, Morocco, southern Spain,
and France, Gitane offers mouthwatering tagines as well as lamb,
pork, and sh dishes, all of which
are served with considerable air
and lots of avor (see p95).
Mar
3 La
Surprisingly, La Mar is one of
San Franciscos few top-notch
seafood restaurants. It serves
wonderful, super-fresh Peruvian
seafood (including an astounding
assortment of tasty ceviches) in a
stunning blue and white dining room
looking out over the Bay (see p95).
4 A16
Known for its authentic
Neapolitan pizzas, fresh pastas,
5 Greens
The rst ne-dining vegetarian
restaurant in the city, it was originally
inspired by the huge success of the
Zen bakery and coffee shop. This
spacious, pleasant Marina restaurant
came to dene vegetarian cuisine for
the entire Bay Area (see p101).
6 Nopalito
MAP H3 306 Broderick St at
Cinema
7 Foreign
MAP F5 2534 Mission St
Restaurants 75
Ros Thai
8 Lers
MAP K2 730 Larkin St
9 Delfina
Thanks to its perfect, modern
Italian fare made with the freshest
local ingredients, it has been hard to
get a table at Delna for years now,
which is saying a lot in a city that has
trendy restaurants opening every
month. In addition to the legendary
chicken and delicate pasta dishes at
Delna, you can indulge in the best
Neapolitan pizza outside of Italy at
its pizzeria next door (see p115).
0 Spruce
MAP D3 3640 Sacramento St
Cli House
1 Atelier Crenn
MAP E2 3127 Fillmore (415)
440-0460 Dis. access $$$
Delicious food, and the dining room is
intimate and quiet.
2 Cli House
A wild setting with views of crashing
waves (see p123).
3 Acquerello
MAP N1 1722 Sacramento St
(415) 567-5432 $$$
The black trues are an aphrodisiac.
4 Masas Restaurant
MAP N4 648 Bush St (415)
989-7154 $$$
French cuisine in elegant surroundings.
5 Boulevard
MAP H2 1 Mission St (415)
543-6084 $$$
Belle poque decor and superb food.
6 Chez Spencer
MAP G4 82 14th St (415)
864-2191 Dis. access $$
French fare in a fairy-lit garden.
7 Aziza
MAP C3 5800 Geary Blvd (415)
752-2222 Dis. access $$$
Delicious, Michelin-starred cuisine.
8 Gary Danko
MAP K2 800 N Point St (415)
749-2060 Dis. access $$$
Sophisticated contemporary cuisine.
9 Frascati
MAP L2 1901 Hyde St (415)
928-1406 Dis. access $$
Italian fare and great views.
10 Chez Panisse
1517 Shattuck Ave, Berkeley, o
Hwy 80 (510) 548-5525 Dis.
access $$$
The birthplace of Cal-Med cuisine.
Book weeks ahead.
Trieste
2 Caff
A North Beach landmark that
must be experienced if you have
any interest whatsoever in the
colorful history of this quarter
whether it is from the literary and
artistic point of view, or for the Italian
culture. Its a great place for a cup
of whatever warm liquid you favor,
and to sit and people-watch, or dip
into one of San Franciscos free
weekly newspapers (see p94).
Bottle Caf
3 Blue
This hip coffee roaster kicked
off San Franciscos latest caf trend;
it serves up perfect cappuccinos and
lattes in its chic, industrial SoMa
space. Also on offer are Kyoto-style
iced coffees, brewed using the
Japanese slow-drip method.
Perfection takes time, however, and
these baristas take their work very
seriously, so be prepared for a bit of
a wait. The experience is worth trying
at least once (see p94).
(415) 487-1600
You may nd a line out the door at
this purveyor of rustic breads, hot
pressed sandwiches, pizzas, cakes,
and tarts. The co-owners have both
been awarded the James Beard
Award for Outstanding Pastry Chefs.
Coffee Co.
5 Rveille
MAP E5 4076 18th St
(415) 789-6258
Coffee acionados gather at this
neighborhood caf in the Castro (also
with branches in North Beach and
Jackson Square) for meticulously
crafted espresso drinks. Watch the
buzzing street from the patio as you
enjoy home-made granola, tasty
sandwiches, or savory atbreads.
6 Tosca
MAP M4
Park Caf
7 Dolores
MAP F5 501 Dolores St
& Branch
8 Bourbon
MAP P3 501 Jones St at
9 MAP M4
Vesuvio
Cove
0 Smugglers
MAP F3 650 Gough St
French toast
1 Dotties True Blue Caf
MAP G3 28 6th St Closed Tue,
Wed Dis. access
Its a SoMa tradition to stand in line
for the American breakfasts.
(415) 869-1900
The quirky pirate-ship decor creates
a fun setting for this three-level tiki
bar with a menu of rums, Caribbean
cocktails, and classic libations from
Prohibition-era Havana.
5 Sparkys Diner
MAP F4 242 Church St at Market
Omelets and hash browns draw
crowds to this popular 24-hour diner.
8 Kates Kitchen
MAP F4 471 Haight St Dis. access
Huge portions of breakfast specialties,
including a French Toast Orgy.
9 Chloes Caf
MAP F6 1399 Church St at 26th
Banana or pecan pancakes, and
cinnamon French toast.
5 Macys
MAP P4 170 OFarrell St
Building
1 Ferry
Marketplace
MAP H2 Embarcadero at Market
Feast on specialties from around the
Bay and take home regional
chocolates and olive oil.
2 Nordstrom
MAP Q4 Westeld San
Marcus
3 Neiman
MAP P4 150 Stockton St
New York
6 Barneys
MAP G3 77 OFarrell St
Fifth Avenue
7 Saks
MAP P4 384 Post St
4 Gumps
MAP P4 135 Post St
Grant Avenue
1 Union Square
Traditionally the focal point of all the
best stores, including Tiany & Co,
Armani, Prada, Cartier, Yves St Laurent,
Chanel, and more (see p89).
2 Union Street
Converted Victorian homes house a
charming assortment of boutiques,
bookstores, antiques shops,
restaurants, and a cinema (see p103).
3 Grant Avenue
MAP N4
Chic shopping o Union Square, exotic
Chinatown emporiums, and North
Beach hangouts in Upper Grant.
4 Upper Fillmore Street
MAP E2
A colorful choice of cafs, restaurants,
and boutiques, all geared to a
high-end Pacic Heights clientele.
Square
9 Ghirardelli
MAP K1 900 North Point St
Shopping
0 Westfield
Center
MAP Q4 865 Market St
This huge center has ten levels
and nearly 400 stores, including
Bloomingdales, a movie theater,
and a gourmet food area.
5 Market Street
MAP Q3
A good place to nd cut-rate
electronics and outlet stores, as well
as the Westeld Shopping Center.
6 Hayes Valley
These blocks oer galleries and stores
with an avant-garde feel (see p105).
7 Chestnut Street
MAP K1
Clothing boutiques, health-food shops,
and an old-fashioned cinema.
8 The Mission
Plenty of discount stores and funky
home furnishing shops (see p111).
9 Castro Street
Fine shops, gay bookstores and erotic
boutiques (see p109).
10 Haight Street
The place for secondhand clothing,
emporiums, and shoe stores (see p105).
Summer
1 Outdoor
Concerts
Gate Park
4 Golden
Opera in the Park:
www.sfopera.com
This 1,000-acre (405-ha) urban
garden is a great place to watch tai
chi classes, swing dancing, or bison
roaming in their paddock. The Music
Concourse hosts free concerts in
summer, including the annual Opera
in the Park event (see pp245).
Ramble
2 Waterfront
The Wave Organ: MAP E1
Point National
5 Fort
Historic Site
Situated at the foot of the Golden
Gate Bridge, this fortress was built
in 1861 to protect the city of San
Francisco from Confederate attacks
that never came. Children in
particular love to see the cannons
being loaded, as well as the Civil War
reenactments (see p47).
View of the
3 Bayside
San Francisco Giants
MAP H3 Giants Promenade
During baseball season its free to
watch the San Francisco Giants play
at home in the AT&T Park from the
Giants Promenade walkway.
sfcityguides.org
Dozens of daily, free walking tours
are led by savvy locals and
historians, giving insights into Coit
Tower murals, Chinatown alleys, the
gay Castro, Victorian architecture,
the Gold Rush, and other topics.
Hall
7 City
Wander through the 1915
Beaux Arts City Hall, situated in the
Civic Center (see p89), which houses
city government and public art. Tour
guides tell of glory days and tragedies, such as the 1906 earthquake
and the assassination of Mayor
George Moscone in 1978 (see p43).
Presidio
9 The
The Ocers Club:
www.presidioocersclub.com
Take a ranger-led tour to experience
200 years of military history, from
Spanish cannons to Civil War
barracks. The Ofcers Club also
runs free cultural events. Meander
the forest trails and enjoy a picnic
on the beach or in the seaview
meadows (see pp989).
Gate Bridge
0 Golden
Whether under cloudy or
sunny skies, a walk or cycle across
the international orange Golden
Gate Bridge is a must. The iconic
symbol of the city towers 260 ft
(79 m) above churning Bay waters,
and offers spectacular views of
Alcatraz Island, sailboats, freighters,
and ferries (see pp1213).
de Mayo
4 Cinco
Sat or Sun before May 5
Commemorating the defeat of the
French army at Puebla, Mexico, in
1862, by General Ignacio Zaragoza,
this is one of the Latino communitys
biggest annual festivals, featuring
parades, reworks, music, and
dancing. In addition to the Civic
Center, much of the fun happens
in the Mission District.
5 Carnaval
Mission District
Last
weekend in May
Having nothing at all to do with Lent
or any other traditional date, San
Franciscos Carnaval is staged when
the weather will most likely be at its
best for the glittery event. Groups
work all year long, with the help of
municipal grants, to create their
dazzling costumes and put together
their infectiously rhythmic routines,
all to a samba, rumba, or salsa beat.
Blossom
3 Cherry
Festival
Two weekends in Apr
Japantown (see p103)
comes to life
spectacularly
when the
cherry trees blossom during
April. There are displays of traditional
arts and crafts, taiko drumming,
martial arts demonstrations, and
dancing, as well as delicious
Japanese food, making this one of
Grove Festival
7 Stern
Sun, early Junlate Aug
A much-loved San Francisco
tradition, this festival showcases
every kind of music in an idyllic
atmosphere (see p118).
Day
8 Independence
Jul 4
This festival, held from Aquatic Park
to PIER 39, involves live entertainment, food stalls, and reworks
launched from several points along
the Bayfront. If its foggy, the bursts
of light seem even more romantic.
Week
9 Fleet
Oct
A celebration of US naval forces,
air shows, and a parade of ships
sail into the Bay set against the
spectacular San Francisco skyline.
0 Oct 31
Halloween
San Francisco
Area by Area
Downtown
86
96
Central Neighborhoods
102
Southern Neighborhoods
108
Oceanfront
116
124
Downtown
The Downtown area is small but highly
variegated, including some of the citys oldest
and newest landmarks. Colorful Chinatown,
exuberant North Beach, posh Nob and Russian
Hills, the bustling Financial District, the
graceful Ferry Building, and the architecture
and culture of Civic Center; all these and
more are packed into the citys heart. This is
where you can ride the cable cars most
Chinatown
statue
scenic routes (see pp1415) and climb
up Telegraph Hill, where Coit Tower stands as one of
the citys most loved landmarks, competing with the
Transamerica Pyramid not far away.
AREA MAP OF DOWNTOWN
KEA RN Y S T
EM
BA
RC
San
Francisco
Bay
PIER 19
ER
PIER 15
OME
B AT T E
AD
SANS
AV E
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PIER 9
PIER 7
PIER 5
DA VI S
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ET
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Sausalito,
Larkspur
TH
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Oakland,
Alameda
E
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T
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R
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EE
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ST
EA
ST
AR
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O
Greyhound N T
Bus Depot
ST
AI
ST
M
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ET
ST
ST
RE
Transbay
Terminal
RE
RE
ET
ET
ET
Top 10 Sights
see pp879
Shopping
see p93
T
EE
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ST
T
FO
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EE
SP
A
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SI
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IS
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SOMA
PIER 2
Places to Eat
see p95
H
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5T
6T
3R
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Powell
Street
7T
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ST RE ET
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STOCK
ST
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Civic
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O M ER Y
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T
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HERMAN
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FR
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McAL
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Downtown 87
1 Chinatown
Since its beginnings in the
1850s, this densely populated
neighborhood has held its own
powerful cultural identity despite
every threat and cajolery. To walk
along its cluttered, clattering
streets and alleys is to be transported to another continent and into
another way of life truly a city
within the city (see pp223).
Beach
2 North
MAP L4
This lively neighborhood is the
original Little Italy of the city, and is
still noted for its great Italian
restaurants and cafs, mostly lined
up along and near Columbus
Avenue. In the 1950s, it was also a
magnet for the Beat writers and
poets, notably Jack Kerouac and
Allen Ginsberg (see p44), who
brought to the area a bohemian style
which it still sports today. This is a
great place for nightlife, from the
tawdry bawdiness of Broadway strip
joints to the simple pleasures of
listening to a mezzo-soprano while
you sip your cappuccino.
Cathedral
5 Grace
MAP N3 1100 California St
Hill
3 Nob
MAP N3
With the advent of the cable car, the
highest hill in San Francisco was
quickly peopled with the elaborate
mansions of local magnates in
particular, the Big Four who
built the Transcontinental Railroad
(see p47) and the name has
become synonymous with wealth
and power. The 1906 earthquake,
however, left only one palace
standing, now the Pacic Union Club,
which still proudly dominates the
center of the summit. Today, instead
of private mansions, Nob Hill is
home to the citys fanciest hotels (see
p142) and apartment buildings, as
well as Grace Cathedral.
Hill
4 Russian
MAP M2
Another of San Franciscos
precipitous heights, one side of
which is so steep youll nd no street
7 Exploratorium
MAP L6 Pier 15,
District
8 Financial
MAP M5
Montgomery Street, now the heart of
the Financial District, was once lined
with small shops where miners
Jackson Square
came to weigh their gold dust. It
MAP M5
marks roughly the old shoreline of
shallow Yerba Buena Cove, which
This neighborhood by the
was lled in during the Gold Rush
Transamerica Pyramid
to create more land. Today it is
(see p50) contains
lined with banking temples
some of the citys
of the early 20th century and
oldest buildings. In
modern fabrications of glass
the 19th century it
and steel. At the end of
was notorious for
Market Street stands the
its squalor, and
renovated Ferry Building, which
was nicknamed the
handled 100,000 commuters per
Barbary Coast, but
brothels and drinking
Jackson Square day before the citys bridges were
plaque
constructed, and is now a bustling
establishments have
meeting spot with cafs and
given way to ofces
artisan food shops. Its tower is
and antiques shops. The blocks
inspired by the Moorish belfry of
around Jackson Street and Hotaling
Place feature many original facades. Seville's cathedral in Spain.
Downtown 89
A WALK AROUND NORTH BEACH
Saints Peter and
Paul Church
Filbert
Street
Coit Tower,
Telegraph Hill
Washington
Square
Ca Roma
US
Restaurant
Upper Grant
Ca Trieste
City Lights
Bookstore
MORNING
Square
9 Union
MAP P4
This important square, which gets its
name from the pro-Union rallies
held here in the early 1860s, has a
$25-million upgraded look that
includes performance spaces and
grassy terraces. It is now the center
for high-end shopping (see p79). With
the Financial District on one side and
the Theater District on the other, it is
most picturesque along Powell
Street, where the cable cars pass in
front of the historic St. Francis Hotel
(see p144). Its central column
commemorates Admiral Deweys
victory at Manila Bay during the
Spanish-American War of 1898.
Center
0 Civic
MAP R1
The citys administrative center is an
excellent example of grand Beaux
Arts taste (see p50). It is perhaps the
most elaborate city center complex
in the US and it continues to undergo
enhancements. Besides the imposing City Hall, with its vast rotunda
and formal gardens, it also includes
the War Memorial Opera House, the
Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall (see
p68), the Herbst Theater, the State
Building, the New Main Library, and
the Old Main Library, re-inaugurated
as the Asian Art Museum.
Grant
7 Upper
MAP L4
Coit Tower mural
Hill
1 Telegraph
MAP L5
Trieste
8 Caff
If youre in the neighborhood
Beach Views
2 North
The panoramic views from
both the hill and the top of the Coit
Tower are justly celebrated. The wide
arc sweeping from the East Bay and
the Bay Bridge to Alcatraz and the
Golden Gate Bridge is breathtaking.
Tower Murals
3 Coit
MAP L5
The frescoes were painted by local
artists in 1934, to provide jobs during
the Depression (see p51). The murals
give sociopolitical commentary yet
are also appealing for their details of
life in California at the time.
4 Broadway
MAP M5
Square
9 Washington
MAP L4
This pretty park is lined with Italian
bakeries, restaurants, and bars.
Dont be surprised to see
practitioners of tai chi doing their
thing on the lawn every morning.
Peter and
0 Saints
Paul Church
MAP L4 666 Filbert St Open
daily Free
Neo-Gothic in conception, with an
Italianesque facade, this church is
also called the Italian Cathedral and
the Fishermans Church, since many
Italians who originally lived in the
neighborhood made their living by
shing (see p48).
Lights Bookstore
5 City
MAP M4 261 Columbus Ave
(415) 362-8193
The Beat poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti
founded City Lights in 1953. Its a
great place to leaf through a few
volumes of poetry or the latest free
papers to nd out whats on.
Previous pages Aerial view of Alcatraz Island
Downtown 93
Shopping
Sorokko Gallery
5 Serge
MAP P4 55 Geary St
(415) 421-7770
If youre in the market for a piece by
one of the modern masters, this is
an excellent place to browse
important prints and other works by
Picasso, Matisse, Mir, Chagall, and
other 20th-century greats, such as
Tapis, Bacon, Twombly, and Warhol.
6 Christopher-Clark
Fine Art
Interior of Schein & Schein
& Schein
1 Schein
MAP G2 1435 Grant Ave
(415) 399-8882
Antique maps and prints, ne
engravings, rare books, and unique
items ll this quaint shop. The
owner, Jimmie Schein, is a rich
source of local history.
& Co
7 Shreve
MAP P4 200 Post St at Grant
North Face
8 The
MAP P4 180 Post St
(415)
433-3223 Dis. access
Another San Francisco original.
Youll nd everything for the outdoor
adventurer at this popular chain.
Macchiarini Creative
3 Carrots
MAP M5 843 Montgomery St 9 Design
Vine
4 Little
MAP P4 1541 Grant Ave
(415) 738-2221
Grab one of the sandwich specials
while browsing this quaint,
European-inspired shop, lled with
independently produced wines,
artisan cheeses, pickles, and
locally sourced honey.
Stout
0 William
Architectural Books
MAP M4 804 Montgomery St
(415) 391-6757
A landmark for design buffs all over
the world, this small shop is divided
into two spaces, with newer books
on display upstairs.
See map on p86
Trieste
1 Caff
MAP M4 609 Vallejo St
Exchange
6 Royal
MAP N6 301 Sacramento St
2 Tosca
MAP M4
Colonial
7 Le
MAP N3 20 Cosmo Place
(415) 931-3600
Sit back and unwind with a cocktail
among the tropical plants at this
Vietnamese restaurant. Happy hour
is from 5 to 6:30pm daily (see p71).
Roma
Key
3 Caff
8 Church
MAP L4 526 Columbus Ave
MAP L4 1402 Grant Ave at
Bottle Caf
4 Blue
MAP Q4 66 Mint St
9 Bix
MAP M5
56 Gold St between
Montgomery & Sansome
(415) 433-6300
Tucked into a Downtown alley, this
sultry supper club features potent
cocktails and smooth jazz.
de la Presse
5 Caf
MAP N5 352 Grant Ave at
Club
0 Press
MAP P4 20 Yerba Buena Lane
(510)
Downtown 95
Places to Eat
5 Quince
MAP M5
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes, and extra charges.
Estiatorio
1 Kokkari
MAP M6 200 Jackson St
(415) 981-0983 $$
The Greek cuisine here is a
delectable revelation of avors.
The lamb shank and grilled
octopus are not to be missed.
6 Slanted
Door
Mar
2 La
MAP M6
Pier 1.5
Embarcadero at Washington
(415) 397-8880 Closed L $$
Situated on the waterfront, this
restaurant serves innovative
Peruvian seafood (see p74).
Grapefruit
mousse, Quince
Market
3 One
MAP N6 1 Market St at
4 MAP P4
MAP H2 1 Ferry
Building (415) 8618032 Dis. access $$
This Vietnamese
option, serving
tantalizing dishes,
is a favorite.
7 Gitane
MAP P4
6 Claude Lane at
Sutter (415) 788-6686 Closed L
Dis. access $$
Gypsy chic meets classic Iberian
cuisine at this popular restaurant,
which is located on a charming
cobbled alley (see p74).
Mare
8 Sotto
MAP L4 552 Green St
(415) 398-3181 $
This lively restaurant consistently
turns out terric Italian seafood
dishes. Be prepared for a wait.
Grill
9 Tadich
MAP N5 240 California St
Sing
0 Yank
MAP H2 101 Spear St
(415)
957-9300 Dis. access $$
Yank Sing is famous for its signature
Shanghai dumplings, with over
60 varieties on offer. Weekday
lunchtimes can be crowded.
Embarcadero
street sign
and
1 Angel
Treasure Islands
Gate Bridge
2 Golden
This world-famous masterpiece of engineering sets off the
entrance to San Francisco Bay in the
most spectacular way imaginable,
and never fails to elicit gasps of awe
from both rst-time visitors and oldtimers alike. Walking or cycling
across its length is an experience not
to be missed (see pp1213).
S a n Fra n ci s co
B a y
MARINE
GE
D
RI
FW
VE
R
C
AVHAR
EN DS
UE O N
ST RE T
ST RE E T
LN
ER
ID
VD
AVE
BL
AN
IC K
CO
ST RE ET
L IN
WY
ER O ST
PK
MARINA
SCOT T
STREE
IO
M A RI N
BA KE R
ID
RES
SH
MASO
OLD
DRIVE
BR OD ER
Places to Eat
see p101
D IV IS AD
MARIN
Top 10 Sights
see pp969
LOMB
ARD
3 Alcatraz
Americas Devils Island
didnt operate as a prison for a particularly long time, but the cell blocks
and control room can still manage to
evoke a chill (see pp1821).
Wharf
4 Fishermans
Although now largely touristoriented, there are still authentic
maritime sights to see, aromas to
savor, and salt air to breathe along
these piers (see pp1617).
Embarcadero
5 The
MAP G1
The Embarcadero starts at Aquatic
Park and curves all the way around
Angel Island
5 miles
1 mile
PIER 41
PIER 45
MUNICIPAL PIER
HYDE STREET
PIER
PIER 33
JE FF ER
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Treasure Island
4 miles
SA NS OM
TON
E
L ST RE
TELEGRAPH
HILL
WASHINGTON
SQUARE
AV
BA
GR AN T
STOCK
TAYL O R
JO NE S
ET
BU
M AS ON
B AY
PIER 31
ST RE ET
PO W EL
LU
STRE
ST RE ET
W OR TH
ST RE E T
STREE
STREE
LE AV EN
HYDE
ST RE E T
N
UNIO
LA RK IN
PO LK
ST
ST RE E T
EN UE
NE SS AV
ST RE E T
T
IN
FI LB ER
FR AN KL
ET
A ST RE
GO UG H
ST RE E T
NWIC
OC TAVI
ST RE ET
ST
STREE
VA N
ST
B AY
CO
TH
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NO RT H
TNUT
GREE
ST
SO N
RD
LA GU NA
FI LL M OR
CHES
PIER 35
PIER 47
600
600
Field
6 Crissy
MAP D1
Park
8 Aquatic
MAP F1 Visitor Center: 499
Point
7 Fort
MAP C1
Crashing waves, passing ships, and
windsurfers, along with a Civil Warera fort loaded with cannons, guns,
and other military artifacts, make for
spectacular photos here beneath the
Golden Gate Bridge. You can sh
along the seawall and take selfguided or ranger-led tours to learn
about the building of the bridge. At
the foot of the cliffs on the western
side of the fort is a small beach loved
by nude sun worshippers (see p12).
Disney museum exhibit, the Presidio
Presidio
9 The
MAP D2
This wooded corner of the city has
stunning views over the Golden Gate,
but from 1776 until 1994 it was
occupied by rst the Spanish, then
Mason Center
0 Fort
MAP F1
Since 1976 some of the buildings
at this Civil War-era military base
have been devoted to cultural
programs. Some 50 cultural
organizations now call it home.
Among the most prominent are the
Mexican Museum, the Museo Italo
Americano (see p55), the Long Now
Foundation, SFMOMA Artists Gallery,
the Childrens Art Center, the Magic
Theatre (see p69), and Herbst
Pavilion. The citys nest vegetarian
restaurant, Greens, is also here,
enjoying views of the Bay (see p74).
Pet
Cemetery
Stilwell
Hall
Cavalry
Barracks
Crissy
Field
Main
Post
National
Military
Cemetery
Golden
Gate Club
+ Rose
2 Gigi
MAP K2 Ghiradelli Square,
(415) 928-6200
The original import market that set
the trend for all the others. It can
still surprise with a well-chosen
item from some faraway land.
of a Kind
3 One
Bookstore
MAP K2 Ghirardelli Square,
9 Readers
900 North Point St (415) 776-3200
MAP F1 Fort Mason Center,
of North Beach
4 Lola
MAP K2 Ghiradelli Square,
& Polk
5 Jackson
MAP K2 Ghiradelli Square,
0 elizabethW
MAP K2 Ghiradelli Square,
Shop
6 NFL
MAP J4 PIER 39, Ground
Places to Eat
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes, and extra charges.
$ under $40 $$ $40$80 $$$ over $80
Danko
1 Gary
MAP K2 800 North Point
5 Tacolicious
MAP K4 2301 Chestnut St
(415) 346-1966 $
A multitude of taco choices abound
at this popular joint. Enjoy the free
chips and salsa while you wait.
6 Greens
MAP F1 Fort Mason Center,
Codmother
2 The
MAP J4 2824 Jones St
(415)
606-9349 Closed D Dis. access $
This food truck serves outstanding
sh tacos, sh and chips, and
assorted chip-shop desserts,
such as fried Oreos.
3 Isa
MAP E2
3324 Steiner St
between Chestnut & Lombard
(415) 567-9588 Dis. access $$
At this tiny Marina restaurant, the
concept is Nouvelle French tapas,
with small plates such as honeyspiced calamari and lobster broth
sprinkled with tarragon.
4 A16
MAP E1
2355 Chestnut St
(415) 771-2216 Dis. access $$
An authentic southern Italian dining
experience thats worth getting
dressed up for (see p74).
7 Zarzuela
MAP L2 2000 Hyde St
(415)
346-0800 Dis. access $$
Delicious, well-priced tapas is served
up in this cozy restaurant.
8 Scomas
MAP J2 Pier 47 on Al Scoma
Puzzle
9 Zushi
MAP F2 1910 Lombard St
Central Neighborhoods
As is the case with most parts of San
Francisco, diversity is the keynote here.
This area encompasses the oldest money
and the highest society of the founding
families of the city, as well as some of
its poorest citizens. It takes in the
staunchest pillars of the politically
savvy. True conservatives are a rarity
in
this progressive city, but you will
Haight Street sign
nd them here alongside the wildest
let-it-all-hang-out freethinkers. Theres a considerable
swath of the comfortably middle-class here too who,
like most San Franciscans, are simply intent on enjoying
the beauties and pleasures of their great city.
AREA MAP OF CENTRAL NEIGHBORHOODS
NESS
AV E N
STREE
UE
AN
NG TO N
ST RE E T
Lafayette
Park
ST RE E
STREE
FILLM
ST RE ET
STREE
F U LT O
H AY E S
FE LL
STREE
ST RE E T
STREE
ST
STRE ET
SAN CHE Z
R
N ST
ST
HE RM AN
ET
ENUE
K
D U B O C E AV
R
NOE
Corona
Heights
Pa r k
LO WER
HAIGHT
ST
Buena
Vista
Pa r k
STREE
ST RE E T
OAK
ST RE E T
STREE
STREE
STREE
RE E T
IC K ST
Alamo
Square
ST R EE
ORE
EL LIS
VA R D
GOUGH
BOULE
GEARY
ADER
BAKER
BR OD ER
O AK
STREE
BU CH AN
STREE
STREE
DIVIS
FR
ST RE E T
AV E
ST RE ET
HA IG HT
K
ED ER IC
ST RE E
PIERC
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STREE
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STREE
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800
STREE
AV EN UE
STREE
IC K
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AN
FELL
P R E S I D IO
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W AS HI
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HEIGHTS
TURK
M AS O
S TA N Y
E DY D
R
BR OD ER
A V EN U E
BOULEVARD
AV E N U E
AV E N U E
F. K E
NN
ST RE E T
ST RE E T
STREE
TURK
ORNIA
BROA
BUSH
VA R D
AN ZA
H AY E S
AVEN UE
COW
HOLLOW
Alta
Plaza
CALIF
BOULE
BAKE
ARGUELLO
5TH
3RD
EUCL ID
RI C H MON D
JOH
P R ESIDIO
H EIG H TS
GEARY
F U LT O
STREE
P R E S I DI
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LY ON
WA S H
T
STREE
T
STREE
D WA
BROA
LIN
ARD
STREE
GOUG
LO M B
STREE
RT
FILBE
N
UNIO
Shops
see p106
NUT
OR E
ON
STREE
CHEST
FI LL M
Places to Eat
see p107
ST
ADERO
A
AV R D
E S
VA N
BAY
CH
FRANK
RI
DIVIS
Top 10 Sights
see pp1035
Church
EE
Gate Park
1 Golden
One of the largest, nest
parks-cum-cultural centers in the
world. No visit to the city is complete
without taking in some of its
wonders (see pp245).
Street
2 Union
MAP E2
A neighborhood shopping street
loaded with tradition, Union Street is
noted for its sidewalk cafs,
bookstores, and designer boutiques,
housed in converted Victorian
charmers. The street is at the heart
of the Cow Hollow neighborhood,
whose name recalls its previous life
as a dairy pasture (see p79).
4 Japantown
MAP F3
5 Haight-Ashbury
MAP D4
Boulevard
6 Geary
MAP F3
Richmond District
7 The
MAP C3
This at district of row houses
begins at Masonic Street,
sandwiched between Golden Gate
Park and California Street. It
ultimately extends all the way to the
Pacic Ocean, being more and more
prone to stay fog-bound the farther
west you go. The district is very
ethnically diverse and generally
middle class. Over the decades, it
has been settled by White
Russians, East European Jews,
and latterly ChineseAmericans and another
wave of Russians.
Heights
8 Presidio
MAP D3
Originally part of the Great
Sand Waste to the west,
this neighborhood is now
Valley
9 Hayes
MAP F4
Rising like a phoenix from the ashes
of racial unrest in what used to be a
rundown African-American slum,
this small area has now become one
of San Franciscos hipper shopping
and dining districts. The dismantling
of an ugly freeway overpass following
the 1989 earthquake helped turn the
tide, and the welcome result is a chic
area that hasnt lost its edge. Hayes
Valley festivals take place in
midsummer, when the areas streets
are thronged with revelers.
Addition
0 Western
MAP E3
This area, too, was once sandy
waste, but after World War II the
district became populated by
Southern African-Americans who
came west for work. For a short
time, it was famous for jazz and
blues clubs, as embodied, until his
death in 2001, by John Lee Hooker
and his Boom Boom Room. Today, it
is still largely African-American in
character and rather rundown,
although it does include
architecturally odd Cathedral of St.
Mary of the Assumption (see p48) and
photogenic Alamo Square (see p51).
A HIPPIE TOUR OF
HAIGHTASHBURY
Jeerson
Airplane
Mansion
Alamo
Square
Panhandle
No. 112
Blue Front
Caf
Golden
Gate Park
Buena Vista
Park
MORNING
Shops
store. Plan to spend a while perusing
their unique furniture, lighting, and
art there is something for everyone
here. The staff are friendly, too.
6 Polanco
MAP F4 393 Hayes St
1 Marmalade
MAP F2 1843 Union St
(415) 400-4027
A chic yet casual boutique with
dresses, tops, and jewelry that are
stylish but not overpriced.
Marmalade also sells fabulous bags,
trinkets, and other great gift items.
Crystal
2 Enchanted
MAP F2 1895 Union St
(415) 885-1335
This gallery/store offers an amazing
collection of art, glass, handcrafted
jewelry, and decorative gifts.
Dodas
3 Carol
Champagne and Lace
Lingerie Boutique
(415) 440-7599
This store specializes in high fashion,
with a huge range in all styles on
offer. Accessories and toys are
also sold here.
Perfect
5 Past
MAP D4 854 Stanyan St
(415) 252-5753
A sophisticated gallery of Mexican
arts, which features silver jewelry,
colorful Day of the Dead masks and
crafts, as well as the work of
emerging Mexican artists.
(415) 929-2288
There are fair prices and tons to
choose from at this huge vintage
Fisher King
7 Sue
MAP F2 3067 Sacramento St
(888) 811-7276
Nearly 40 years ago, Sue Fisher King
opened her shop of trinkets and
treasures for the home, ne jewelry,
and divinely scented bath products.
Today its still considered one of the
citys must-visits.
Experience
8 Comix
MAP E4 305 Divisadero St
(415) 863-9258
The comics here have adult
acionados in mind: The Ring of the
Nibelung, The Filth, Naughty Bits, and
Static-X are just a few examples of
the wacky titles that await you in
both new and vintage issues.
Books
9 Chronicle
MAP F4 1846 Union St
(415) 345-8435
More of a gift shop than a true
bookstore, Chronicle Books is also a
publisher and stocks its own titles.
The store offers a large number of
unconventional books, as well as
gorgeous cookbooks, and a wide
selection of gifts.
Music
0 Amoeba
MAP D4 1855 Haight St
(415) 831-1200
Besides thousands of LPs, tapes,
and CDs, theres also a huge
selection of DVDs and posters at
this record store, which is part of
an independent chain.
Places to Eat
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes, and extra charges.
$ under $40 $$ $40$80 $$$ over $80
German chocolate
cake at Absinthe
1 MAP F2
Perrys
1944 Union St
(415) 922-9022 Dis. access $
A San Francisco institution, noted for
its burgers and other all-American
favorites, including meatloaf, prime
rib, and fried chicken.
Bird Provisions
2 State
MAP F3 1529 Fillmore St
3 SPQR
MAP E3
1911 Fillmore St
(415) 771-7779 Dis. access $$
Reservations are accepted online
only at this no-frills, rustic Romaninspired eatery with mouthwatering
antipasti and superior service.
4 Nopa
MAP E4
560 Divisadero St
(415) 864-8643 Closed L $
Considered one of the best
restaurants in the city, Nopa has
a seasonally changing menu.
5 Absinthe
MAP F4 398 Hayes St
Delfina
6 Pizzeria
MAP F5 2406 California St
7 Suppenkuche
MAP F4 525 Laguna St
Seafood
8 Kiss
MAP F3 1700 Laguna St
Front Caf
9 Blue
MAP E4 1430 Haight St
Grove
0 The
MAP E3 2016 Fillmore St
Interior of Nopa
Southern Neighborhoods
The southern part of San Francisco comprises
some of the liveliest, most authentic parts of
the city the clubs of SoMa, the gay world of
the Castro, and the Latino Mission District.
There are also some up-and-coming
neighborhoods on this side of the city, such
as Bernal Heights and Glen Park, as the more
central areas have priced creative types out
toward the southern borders. Laid-back Noe
Valley was the rst such choice for high-rent
refugees, but it, too, has become gentried
and pushed people farther south.
Mission Dolores facade detail
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24TH
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Mission
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Mission
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Coron a
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H AY E S
VA L L E Y
OAK
ER IC K
TREET
THEATER
DISTRICT
F U LT O
VA RD
GOUG
STREE
Nightclubs
see p113
TURK
STREE
STREE
Bars
see p114
BO UL E
GEARY
ST RE E
WESTERN
AD D I T I O N
VA N
ER
DERO
Shops
see p112
STREE
BUSH
ER
STEIN
DIVISA
Places to Eat
see p115
ST RE E T
RN IA
SCOT
CA LI FO
W EB ST
Top 10 Sights
see pp10911
STREET
Dolores
2 Mission
The Spanish Misin San
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Castro
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STR EET
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Rock
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STR EE T
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MA RIP OSA
20th Street
22nd St
Station
23rd Street
T
23R D STR EE
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Buena Center
5 Yerba
This is fast becoming one of
San Franciscos leading centers for
the performing arts and has a
growing number of museums
representing the citys ethnic
diversity. Every year sees some new
addition to the complex (see pp323).
Peaks
6 Twin
MAP E6
These two hills were rst known in
Spanish as El Pecho de la Chola, or
The Bosom of the Indian Girl. At
the top, there is an area of parkland
from which you can enjoy incomparable views of the city. There is
plenty of parking near the viewing
point. If youre up to the climb,
take the footpath to the top, above
the main viewing area, to get a
360-degree panorama.
Valley
7 Noe
MAP E6
Once a simple working-class
neighborhood, until the 1970s
brought hippies, gays, artists, and
other bohemian types to its slopes
and it became an attractive
alternative to more established
quarters. In its heyday it was known
as both Nowhere Valley for its
relative remoteness, and as Granola
Valley for its nature-loving denizens.
Lately, it has been taken over by
middle-class professionals, who
value it for its orderliness, but 24th
Street still hums with activity and is
lined with cafs and bookstores.
Francisco Museum
8 San
of Modern Art
San Franciscos home for its
extensive modern art collection is as
impressive outside as it is aweinspiring inside. Its new extension
will enable even more of its stunning
treasure of painting, photography,
media and digital installations,
design, and large-scale sculptures to
be on show (see pp3031).
View of the city from Twin Peaks
The Cafe
Twin Peaks
Badlands
Castro Theater
Moby Dick
Brand X
Antiques
District
9 Mission
MAP F5
The Mission is home to many of San
Franciscos Latinos. They have
brought their culture with them
taqueras, salsa clubs, Santera
shops, murals, and Spanish everywhere. Its festivals are not to be
missed, especially Carnaval (see p82).
Hill
0 Potrero
MAP H5 Anchor Brewing Co,
Shops
& Pens
1 Needles
MAP F4 3253 16th St
(415) 255-1534
Theres a little bit of everything at
this funky, eclectic store. Dont miss
the fantastic magazine selection,
unique cards, stationery, and
T-shirts, as well as the gallery.
2 Jeremys
MAP R6 2 South Park
(415) 882-4929
A fabulous discount boutique for
mens and womens fashions,
including Prada, Gucci, Armani,
Ralph Lauren, DKNY, Dior, and
Anthropologie all at reduced prices.
Books
3 Borderlands
MAP F5 866 Valencia St
(415) 824-8203
A funky bookstore specializing in
science ction, horror, and fantasy.
Whether these genres are your cup
of tea or not, Borderlands is worth a
visit for a dose of the unusual.
X Antiques
4 Brand
MAP E5 570 Castro St
(415) 626-8908
The gay couple who own this shop
share a discerning and humorous
eye for antiques. In addition to
baubles, rings, and furniture, the
collection also features tongue-incheek vintage homoerotica.
Voyager Shop
5 The
MAP F5 365 Valencia St
(415) 779-2712
A unique retail store of worldwide
treasures, with everything
from clothing and accessories
to stationery and ocean gear
and a full gallery to boot.
Gate
6 Paxton
MAP F5 824 Valencia St
(415) 824-1872
This wonderland of unique items
for gifts and home decor even
Treasures and taxidermy, Paxton Gate
Rabat Shoes
7 Astrids
MAP F6 3909 24th St
(415) 282-7400
If walking the steep city streets
is challenging your footwear, this
Noe Valley store can t you with a
new pair of sturdy, not to mention
stylish, walking shoes.
Art Gallery
8 City
MAP F5 828 Valencia St
(415) 970-9900
This gallery sells work from dozens
of local artists in a variety of
media. Much of it is reasonably
priced, making it a great spot to
nd a unique gift.
Yoruba
9 Botanica
MAP F5 3423 19th St
(415) 814-3130
The Santera religion is the faith of
many Latinos, and this shop fullls
their ritualistic and spiritual needs.
An array of potions and powders,
candles, and icons (see p49).
a Mano
0 Fatto
MAP G4 129 Carolina St
(415) 525-4348
Owned by a husband-and-wife team,
this store sells unique home
furnishings, including ceramics,
glassware, and kitchen accessories.
Their beautiful handmade
furnishings are imported from Italy.
Nightclubs
Stud Bar
1 The
MAP G4 399 9th St at
Room
2 Make-Out
MAP F5 3225 22nd St at
Caf
3 The
MAP E5 2369 Market St at
Minna Gallery
7 111
MAP P5 111 Minna St
4 AsiaSF
MAP G4 201 9th St at
EndUp
5 The
MAP R4 401 6th St at
6 MAP F4
Caf du Nord
2170 Market St
(415) 861-5016
Located in the landmark SwedishAmerican building, this subterranean
8 ElMAPRioF5
3158 Mission St
(415) 282-3325
Different dance events every night of
the week draw a diverse crowd ready
to work their thing at this bar on the
go since 1978 Sunday Salsa
Showcase is particularly popular.
Room
9 Elbo
MAP F5 647 Valencia St
(415) 552-7788
This two-story bar combines
dancing, live entertainment, and pool
tables. A great mix of people come
together here for the welcoming
atmosphere and a great time.
0 Mighty
MAP G4
Bars
13
1 Lucky
MAP F4 2140 Market St at
of the Hill
2 Bottom
MAP G4 1233 17th St between
Whisky Lounge
Knockout
3 Nihon
7 The
MAP F4 1779 Folsom at 14th
MAP F6 3223 Mission St
(415) 550-6994
St (415) 552-4400
The white-pebbled
With DJs and live music all week,
oor and vast
and bingo on Thursdays, The
selection of hardKnockout has remained one of the
to-nd whiskeys
most popular dive bars in San
make this
Francisco for years.
Japanese whiskey
Mezzanine
lounge a superMAP Q3 444 Jesse St
cool spot to
Rare whiskey, Nihon
(415) 625-8880
Whisky Lounge
grab a drink.
This richly diverse gathering space
Twenty Five Lusk
showcases live and electronic music
MAP H3 25 Lusk St (415)
from a wide variety of genres
495-5875
(including rock, dance, hip-hop, soul,
jazz, salsa, and world beat), as well
Located in a renovated timber
as hosting multimedia art events and
warehouse, this elegant bar-cumfashion shows (see p70).
restaurant is sleek and modern with
a hip, urban vibe. The cocktails are
83 Proof
delicious and the stylish lounge
MAP P6 83 1st St
below is great for people-watching.
(415) 296-8383
The Residence
This popular neighborhood hangout
MAP F4 718 14th St
is often crowded with locals,
(415) 797-8866
who come here for the inventive
drinks made from the ve shelves
Friendly bartenders keep people
of liquor behind the bar.
coming to this neighborhood hangout with comfy chairs and a cozy,
21st Amendment
relaxed interior. There is a good
MAP R6 563 2nd St
selection of beer and cocktails.
(415) 369-0900
Trick Dog
A sports fans dream, this brewpub
MAP F5 3010 20th St
near the ballpark serves up
(415) 471-2999
handcrafted beers and standard
American fare. Its a friendly place
Well-crafted and imaginative
to catch a game on television.
cocktails win rave reviews at this
Places to Eat
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes, and extra charges.
$ under $40 $$ $40$80 $$$ over $80
Caf
1 Stable
MAP F5 2128 Folsom at 17th
2 Marlowe
MAP H3 500 Brannan St
3 Prospect
MAP H2 300 Spear St
(415)
247-7770 $$$
One of the citys seminal dinners out
can be had at this SoMa mainstay.
The decadent brunch is less pricey.
Villa Taqueria
6 Pancho
MAP F4 3071 16th St (415)
7 Range
MAP F5
842 Valencia St
(415) 282-8283 Dis. access $$
This sleek Mission District restaurant
serves simple classics and is a
perfect end to a days sightseeing.
Centro
8 Caff
MAP R6 102 South Park
4 MAP F4
242 Church St at
Market (415) 626-8666 $
Open 24 hours, this caf is great for
clubbers wanting to grab a late-night
breakfast or burger and fries.
Thai
9 Osha
MAP F5 819 Valencia St
5 Chow
MAP F4
0 Delfina
MAP F5 3261 18th St
(415)
552-4055 Closed L Dis. access $$
Delna serves perfect Italian fare.
Its next-door pizzeria is ideal for a
more casual dinner (see p75).
Oceanfront
As with every part of the city, this area is a study in
contrasts. It contains terrains of natural, untamed
beauty particularly the windswept cliffs and
hidden ravines of Lands End, the scene of
innumerable shipwrecks. Yet, just a few blocks
away is Sea Cliff, one of the most exclusive
residential neighborhoods. Of all the citys
areas, this is where youre almost certain
to encounter the infamous fog, but if the
weather is clear there are great views
of the offshore Seal Rocks and even
Statue at Legion
the Farallon Islands.
of Honor
A R G U EL LO
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42ND
4 6 TH
G R E AT
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FR E D E R
WAY
LINCOLN
28TH
SUNSET
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TAR AV A L STR EE T
DRIVE
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KIN G
STREET
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LINCOLN
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RICHMOND
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S TA N Y
BA LB OA
B O U L E VA R D
GEARY
B O U L E VA R D
AV E
STREET
B A L BOA
8 T H AV E N U E
G E A R Y B O U L E VA R D
STREE
C LA
Lincoln
Park
L
AMIN O D E
LC
25TH
Mount
Davidson
Park
Top 10 Sights
see pp11719
Places to Eat
see p123
Shops
see p122
Oceanfront 117
House
1 Cliff
MAP A3 (415) 386-3330
Beach
2 Ocean
MAP A4 The Great Hwy
of Honor
3 Legion
MAP B3 Lincoln Park, 34th
Parks
4 Oceanfront
MAP A3
Lincoln Park, Lands End, and Sutro
Heights Park are large green areas
overlooking the coast all along this
northwestern corner of the peninsula. Lincoln Park is the work of
John McClaren (see p25), and
features trails with some of the best
views of the Golden Gate Bridge.
Lands End is a rugged stretch along
the cliffs that features a picturesque
cove and truly spectacular hiking.
Statuary of the old Sutro estate still
decorates Sutro Heights Park, which
dominates the coastal scene from its
dramatic vantage point.
Rocks
6 Seal
MAP A3
The westernmost promontory on
this tip of the peninsula is Point
Lobos, the projection that forms
the rocky cove of Lands End.
Along to the south from here down
to Cliff House is a scattering of
small, rocky islands that are
frequented by seals hence the
name. Bring binoculars with you to
spy on the seals and birds in their
natural habitat. At night, from the
beach or Cliff House promenade, the
barking of the sea lions like the
keening of the foghorns is both
reassuring and eerie, and so very
San Francisco. On a clear day, 32
miles (50 km) off the coast, you can
see the Farallon Islands, which are
also inhabited by sea lions and have
a state-protected rookery.
Seals basking on the Seal Rocks
Cliff
7 Sea
MAP C2
Many famous actors, such as Robin
Williams and Sharon Stone, have had
homes in this elite residential
enclave, which stands in stark
contrast to the natural coastal area
all around it. Most of the luxurious
homes are Mediterranean in style
and date from the 1920s. Just below
the neighborhood, China Beach
named after poor Chinese shermen
who used to camp here is one of
the safest beaches in the city for
swimming and is equipped with
showers and other facilities. Baker
Beach, just to the north, is another
popular beach (see pp589).
District
8 Sunset
MAP C5 Between Sloat Blvd
Oceanfront 119
upon row of neat, look-alike houses.
Yet, like the entire area along the
ocean, this district is subject to a
great deal of gray weather. Its one
claim to fame is Sutro Tower, the
pronged red-and-white television
antenna that resembles something
out of a science ction movie.
Merced
9 Lake
Hwy 35
Eagles Point
Lands End Cove
Lincoln Park
Sutro
Baths
Seal Rocks
Merrie Way
Cli House
Francisco Zoo
0 San
Sloat Blvd at Pacic Ocean
A TWOHOUR HIKE
AROUND LANDS END
Shops
Life
1 Park
MAP D3 220 Clement St
(415) 386-7275
Part retail store, part art gallery,
this sleek space features limitededition books, prints, homeware,
jewelry, T-shirts, and art. The gallery
exhibits contemporary art.
2 MAP A5
Surf Shop
5 Aqua
MAP A5 3847 Judah St
(415) 242-9283
Every sort of surf gear, including the
extra-thick wetsuits needed to
survive these northern waters.
Galleria
6 Stonestown
19th Ave & Winston Drive
4540 Irving St
(415) 566-4692
This tiny store on the beach has been
run by the same friendly owner for
more than 30 years. Great,
interesting pieces of jewelry and
unique nds are on sale here.
(415) 564-8848
Upmarket Nordstrom and allpurpose Macys are the anchor
stores in this traditional indooroutdoor shopping center with
the usual array of mall stores, from
Gap to Sunglass Hut, as well as
plenty of food outlets.
and
3 Gaslight
Shadows Antiques
Apple Books
7 Green
MAP D3 506 Clement St
(415) 387-2272
Its easy to lose a few hours
browsing through the selection of
used books and DVDs at this store.
Part of the fun is taking the time to
read the well-written and helpful
staff recommendations.
Hat Works
4 Pauls
MAP B3 6128 Geary Blvd
(415) 221-5332
This one-of-a-kind store is devoted
to old-fashioned hat making. Each
hat is custom-made.
Boutique
8 Piedmont
MAP E4 1452 Haight St
(415) 864-8075
A stroll around Haight-Ashbury
isnt complete without a visit to
Piedmont Boutique, the famous,
ashy clothier to the party set for
nearly a half-century.
Bazaar
9 Urban
MAP D5 1371 9th Ave bet
Candies
0 Sees
3250 20th Ave, Stonestown
Oceanfront 123
Places to Eat
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes, and extra charges.
$ under $40 $$ $40$80 $$$ over $80
House
1 Cliff
MAP A3 1090 Point Lobos Ave
Chalet Brewery
2 Beach
MAP A4 1000 Great Hwy
Sushi
3 Kabuto
MAP C3 5121 Geary Blvd at
Kiang
4 Ton
MAP C3 5821 Geary Blvd
5 Chapeau!
MAP C3 126 Clement St at
6 MAP A3
Outerlands
4001 Judah St
(415) 661-6140 Dis. access $
The menu changes to reect the
seasons at this popular beachside
211
7 Pizzetta
MAP C3 211 23rd Ave
8 QMAPRestaurant
D3 225 Clement St
Beach Caf
9 Java
MAP A5 1396 La Playa St
(415) 665-5282 $
This cozy caf serves sandwiches,
soup, and pastries in a nauticalthemed interior.
Superstar
0 Burma
MAP D3 309 Clement St
Oaklands
Paramount
Olema
Point
Reyes
Benicia
Martinez
San Rafael
Mount Tamalpais
Concord
Richmond
Walnut
Creek
Mill Valley
Albany
Tiburon
Berkeley
Sausalito
Oakland
Marin County
SAN
Headlands
Bolinas
Stinson Beach
FRANCISCO
Farallon
Islands
Danville
Oakland International
Airport
San
Fra n c i s c o
Bay
San Francisco
International Airport
Mount Diablo
State Park
Dublin
Pleasanton
Union City
Pacifica
Point Montara
San
Mateo
Fremont
Palo Alto &
Stanford
Pacific
Ocean
Mountain
View
San Gregorio
Saratoga
Butano
State Park
Los Gatos
Pigeon Point
Lexington
Hills
San Jose
La
Honda
Pescadero
Top 10 Sights
see pp1257
Places to Eat
see p131
Woodside
0 kilometers 15
0 miles
Santa Cruz
15
Capitola
1 Berkeley
BART Berkeley
3 Sausalito
US 101
2 BART 12th St
Oakland
County Headlands
4 Marin
Muni Bus 76
To visit these raw, wild hills with
astonishingly beautiful views is to
enter another world; yet its only half
an hours drive from the city, by way
of the Golden Gate Bridge. The scale
of the rolling terrain is immense, and
the precipitous drops into the ocean
dramatic. This is an unspoiled area
of wildlife (Point Reyes to the north is
home to tule elk herds), windswept
ridges, sheltered
valleys, and deserted
beaches (see p58).
Tule elk, Marin County
Headlands
Beach
7 Stinson
Hwy 1
Since the early 20th century, this has
been a popular vacation spot and
remains the preferred swimming
beach for the whole area (see p58).
The soft sand and the spectacular
8 Bolinas
Hwy 1
Bolinas is a hippie village that time
forgot. The citizens regularly take
down road signs showing the way to
their special place, to keep away
visitors. Potters and other craftspeople sell their wares in the funky
gallery, organic produce and
vegetarianism are the rule, and
1960s idealism still predominates.
9 Tiburon
Hwy 131
Marin Countys less hectic alternative
to Sausalito here, 100-year-old
houseboats (arks) have been
pulled ashore and refurbished,
forming Ark Row, with shops,
restaurants, and cafs that enhance
the charm of this waterfront village.
There are also opportunities to see
wildlife in the parks along the shore,
facing Angel Island and the city.
Valley
0 Mill
O Hwy 101
Home to a well-known lm festival,
this is the quintessential Marin town;
wealthy, relaxed, beautiful, and with
a well-educated populace given to
liberal views on just about every
topic. The old part of town is anked
by redwoods, lined with old buildings
that house restaurants and unusual
shops, and the whole centers around
an eternally pleasant public square.
A MORNING WALK
AROUND BERKELEY
Cheese
Board
Collective
Wellman
Hall
University
Visitor
Center
Sproul
Plaza
Sather
Tower
Hearst
Greek
Theater
Berkeley Art
Museum and
Pacic Film
Archive
Peoples
Park
Artifacts
6 Earthquake
A collection of objects that
pertain to the terrible earthquake of
1906 are on display here, including
porcelain cups and saucers fused
together by the heat of the re that
destroyed so much of the city.
History
7 Californian
This section of the museum
Sciences
2 Natural
In the brilliant Natural
Sciences Department, the state of
California is presented as one of the
worlds top ten biological hot spots.
There are thousands of artifacts on
display, including bird and mammal
study skins and mounts, as well
as an enormous collection of
reptiles, amphibians, and fungi.
Rush Artifacts
3 Gold
The lives of those who
came to California
from all over the
world in the 19th
century, hoping to
strike it rich, are
chronicled here. Youll
see gold nuggets,
prospecting tools and
rare mining equipment.
Gallery
8 Art
The third level of the museum
is devoted to the Gallery of California
Art, featuring works by artists who
have studied, lived, and worked here.
Included are works by California
Impressionists and members of the
Bay Area Figurative Movement.
Check the website (museumca.org)
for the opening times of the
California Art and History Galleries.
9 Photography
The Gallery of
Gold nugget
Mission-era Artifacts
Crafts
0 Californian
This is the largest collection
in the world of work by California
Arts and Crafts practitioners Arthur
and Lucia Kleinhans Mathews,
including paintings, drawings,
furniture, and other decorative art.
Island
2 Belvedere
This garden island, attached by
Reyes
3 Point
Hwy 1 to Olema, then
signposted to Point Reyes
This windswept peninsula is a haven
for wildlife, including a herd of tule
elk; it is also home to cattle ranches.
You can watch migrating whales
offshore from December to March.
4 Hwy 101
San Jose
Gregorio and
5 San
Pescadero
Hwy 1
San Gregorio, protected by cliffs, is
the Bay Areas oldest nudist beach.
Pescadero, as well as having a state
beach with wonderful tide pools, is a
lovely town that looks like something
out of the Old West, complete with a
whitewashed wooden church. The
thriving farming community
produces asparagus and pumpkins.
Lighthouse,
Pescadero
7 Woodside
Hwy 280
This bucolic residential area is where
many of the rst families to have
lived in the Bay Area built fabulous
mansions in the late 19th century.
Shops
Shopping
1 Stanford
Center
Diva
5 Via
516 Irwin St, San Rafael
Green Gifts
6 Treehouse
2935 College Ave, Berkeley
Sweet Shoppe
2 Powells
3206 College Ave, Berkeley
Hiller
3 Gene
729 Bridgeway
O
Hwy 101 (415) 257-8881
This broad collection of art and
artifacts includes treasures from
China, Indonesia, India, Thailand,
and South America.
Florence
7 Tyler
Shop
8 Convert
1844 4th St, Berkeley
Lane
9 Shady
325 Sharon Park Drive, Menlo
Park (650) 321-1099
This boutique was founded by a
collective of artists who wanted to
create a showcase for their designs
in areas like jewelry and ceramics.
Chapline Gallery
0 Claudia
and Sculpture Garden
3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach
Hwy 1 (415) 868-2308
In a great setting near the beach, the
Chapline sculpture garden is full of
delights, especially the brilliant
kinetic pieces driven by the wind,
which are the work of Lyman
Whitaker. Inside, the variety and
quality of painted and mixed-media
work is very compelling.
Places to Eat
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes, and extra charges.
$ under $40 $$ $40$80 $$$ over $80
Tutto Pizza
1 Tony
246 East Blithedale Ave, Mill
Valley Hwy 101 & Hwy 1 (415)
283-8646 Dis. access $
Crispy thin-crust pizzas made with
fresh organic ingredients. Most of the
tables are outside, so it can get quite
cramped if the weather is bad.
2 Vasco
106 Throckmorton Ave, Mill
Valley Hwy 101 & Hwy 1 (415)
381-3343 Closed L $
Vasco serves delicious pizzas,
pastas, and desserts. The downside
is theres often a wait for a table.
Bridgeway Caf
4 The
633 Bridgeway, Sausalito
Snack Bar
5 Parkside
43 Arenal Ave, Stinson
Beach Hwy 1 (415) 868-1272
Dis. access $
Creative brunch at picnic tables on
the patio, or in the dining room. Try
the Tomales Bay mussels in curry.
6 Gayles
504 Bay Ave, Capitola
Hwy 1
(831) 462-1200 Dis. access $
This bakery and rosticceria (or deli)
features an extraordinary selection of
Eritrea dAfrique
7 Caf
4069 Telegraph Ave, Oakland
Inn
8 Alpine
3915 Alpine Rd, Portola Valley
Hwy 280 (650) 854-4004 Dis.
access $
In a building that dates back to 1850,
this greasy beer bar with a garden is
popular with locals and Silicon Valley
workers alike for its substantial
burgers and fries.
9 Bucks
3062 Woodside Drive,
Woodside Hwy 280 (650) 8518010 Dis. access $
After a long hike on one of the many
trails in Woodside, enjoy a hearty
Woodsider omelet and coffee at this
kitsch restaurant.
Panisse
0 Chez
1517 Shattuck Ave, Berkeley
Streetsmart
134
Practical Information
136
Places to Stay
142
General Index
150
Acknowledgments
158
134 Streetsmart
Traveling by Bus,
Muni Metro, and
Cable Car
Transit (BART)
Arriving by Train
Amtrak trains access
San Francisco from
stations across the
country. The closest
station is Emeryville, to
the north of Oakland.
Amtrak runs a free
shuttle to the city center.
Transport Passes
Arriving by Sea
Cruise ships dock at Pier
35, which is the embarkation and debarkation
point of many Alaskan or
Mexican Riviera cruises.
Taxis and modes of public
transportation are
available at the dock.
By Car
Many visitors leave their
cars at their lodgings, as
expensive parking
garages, sparse street
parking, and congestion
can make driving
frustrating and timeconsuming, even in this
small, compact city.
Reliable car rental
agencies include Hertz,
SFO Rental Car Center,
and Zipcar.
By Ferry
DIRECTORY
AIRPORTS
Muni
sfmta.com
Uber
uber.com
SamTrans
samtrans.com
CAR RENTAL
Oakland International
Airport
(510) 563-3300
oaklandairport.com
RAIL
Hertz
hertz.com
Amtrak
amtrak.com
Zipcar
zipcar.com
San Francisco
International Airport
(650) 821-8211
ysfo.com
Cable Cars
sfcablecar.com
Caltrain
caltrain.com
TRANSPORT PASSES
CityPass
citypass.com
Clipper
clippercard.com
BICYCLES
SF Bicycle Coalition
sfbike.org
SFO Bike Information
ysfo.com/to-from/biking
FERRIES
Blue and Gold Fleet
blueandgoldeet.com
RIDE SERVICES
Lyft
lyft.com
136 Streetsmart
Practical Information
treatment. Conrm in
advance that the hospital
All travelers to the US
Travel insurance is inval- or clinic accepts your
need a valid passport.
uable when you need to
insurance coverage.
Most European citizens,
cancel a trip because of
Pharmacies are located
as well as citizens from
illness, death of a relative, within most large chain
Australia, New Zealand,
weather, or emergency
supermarkets.
and Japan, need a nonmedical care and evacuUnsafe sex is frowned
refundable return ticket
ation, as well as to cover
upon in this gay-friendly
from outside the US to
lost baggage or canceled city. The drop-in San
qualify for the Visa Waiver ights. Insure My Trip
Francisco City Clinic
Program (VWP), which
sells travel coverage from provides free or low-cost
allows citizens of
several carriers; you
diagnosis and treatment
participating countries to enter your trip details and of STDs, plus free
enter the US without a
your needs in order to
condoms, emergency
visa for stays of 90 days or receive several quotes.
contraception, and postless. The Electronic
Europ Assistance USA
exposure prevention.
System for Travel
offers multilingual,
Authorization is an auto- 24-hour assistance
Personal Security
mated system that
including medical
Dial 911 for real
determines visitors
evacuation, emergency
emergencies, and have
eligibility for the VWP.
cash, help with lost
Other nationalities must documents and baggage, your information and
location ready. As in all
secure a visa from a US
and medical case
cities, when parking, you
consulate or embassy
management. Travelers
should remove or stash
before traveling. All major from EEA countries
valuables out of sight and
countries have consulates should carry their
lock your car. Patronize
in San Francisco; for
European Health
parking garages that have
questions about visiting,
Insurance Card (EHIC),
attendants on duty. Take
contact your national
which covers only
care with your belongings
representative.
necessary medical
while sitting at sidewalk
treatment.
tables and in crowds. Be
Customs
alert after dark in the
Regulations
Health
Lower Haight, the
You are allowed to bring
No vaccinations are
Mission, Golden Gate
in 1.75 pints (1 liter) of
required for foreign
Park, Fishermans Wharf,
wine or liquor, 200
visitors to the US. San
and in the Tenderloin. For
cigarettes, 100 cigars, 3 lb Francisco has several
personal items lost on
(1.3 kg) of tobacco, and
major hospitals, including Muni, contact Muni Lost
$100 worth of gifts.
Saint Francis Memorial
and Found. For contact
Some items are not
Hospital, Davies Medical details of the SFO Lost
allowed, such as certain
Center, and San
and Found, see the
fruits and vegetables,
Francisco General
airports website.
animals, and animal
Hospital. For minor mediproducts. You may carry
cal issues, walk-in clinics Tourist Information
up to $10,000 in US or
are found throughout the
The San Francisco Visitor
foreign currency out of
city, including Care
Information Center is
or into the country; larger Practice and Traveler
sums must be declared,
Medical Group. Expect to loaded with information,
coupons, tour tickets, and
which entails ling form
pay for any type of
money-saving passes for
CM 4790. See the US
healthcare that you
visitors to the city. Well in
Customs and Border
receive; often you will be
advance of your arrival,
Protection website
asked to arrange for
check out the website
for details.
payment before the
Disabled Travelers
Disabled access is
extensive throughout the
city, from ramped curbs
to telecommunication
One of the most gaydevices for hearingfriendly cities in the
impaired travelers.
world, San Francisco
Discounted fares for
offers plenty of LGBTdisabled passengers are
welcoming hotels and
available on all transit.
nightspots, particularly in The free Muni Access
the lively Castro district
Guide is available on the
where many gay residents Muni website, and gives
live. The organizer of the pointers on how to make
DIRECTORY
PASSPORTS AND VISAS Insure My Trip
insuremytrip.com
Australian Consulate
General
MAP P5 576 Market St
(415) 644-3620
British Consulate
General
MAP P5 1 Sansome St
(415) 617-1300
Canadian Consulate
General
MAP N5 580
California St
(415) 834-3180
Electronic System for
Travel Authorization
cbp.gov
CUSTOMS
HEALTH SERVICES
Care Practice
MAP F4 508 14th St
(415) 864-4444
Davies Medical
Center
MAP E4 45 Castro St
(415) 565-6060
Saint Francis
Memorial Hospital
MAP N2 900 Hyde St
(415) 353-6300
San Francisco
City Clinic
MAP G4 356 7th St
(415) 487-5500
PERSONAL SECURITY
Emergency Services
911
Muni Lost and Found
311 or (415) 701 2311
SFO Lost and Found
ysfo.com
TOURIST INFORMATION
San Francisco Visitor
Information Center
MAP Q3 900 Market St
sanfrancisco.travel
TRAVEL INSURANCE
San Francisco
General Hospital
MAP G5 1001 Potrero Ave DISABLED TRAVELERS
(415) 206-8000
Access Northern California
accessnca.org
Traveler Medical Group
(415) 963-4398
138 Streetsmart
other area codes: you dial
1 followed by the area
code. Toll-free numbers
US bank notes come in
start with 800, 877, 888,
denominations of $1, $5, or similar prexes. Dial
$10, $20, $50, and $100.
411 to get local and
Coins are 1c, 5c (nickel),
national numbers. Inter10c (dime), 25c (quarter), national calls should be
and the less common 50c preceded by 011. To save
and $1. Currency
money, buy a phone card
exchange is available at
or a cheap cellphone.
the three international
Cellphones can also be
airports, at Downtown
rented from InTouch USA.
banks and hotels, and at
Wi-Fi is free at the
Travelex America. ATMs airports and at cafs and
are the best way to get
lodgings. You can also
cash. To avoid the fees
access free Wi-Fi in public
added to ATM transactspaces by connecting to
ions, make a purchase in #SFWiFi. Find more hot
a store and ask for cash.
spots at the Open WiFi
Debit cards are accepted Spots website. Computers
for every transaction type. are available to use for
Travelers checks are no free at the San Francisco
longer widely accepted,
Visitor Information Center
even sometimes by the
and libraries.
banks that issue them.
Without a credit card, you Newspapers,
will not be able to rent a
Magazines, TV,
car or check into a hotel. and Radio
Visa and MasterCard are
Besides publishing a daily
accepted everywhere,
while Discover and Diners newspaper, the San
Francisco Chronicle
Club cards are often
maintains a website of
refused, and even
news, events, performing
American Express may
arts, restaurant and
be refused at smaller
movie reviews, and travel
businesses.
tips and articles. Lighthearted, liberal, and free,
Postal Services
SF Weekly covers the arts,
Most US post ofces are
events, and eateries, in
open from 9am to 5:30pm print and online. Both
Monday to Friday and
free, the Bay Area
from 9am to 2pm on
Reporter and San
Saturdays. The Union
Francisco Bay Times cater
Square Post Ofce is
to the LGBT community.
centrally located. Stamps San Francisco Magazine
are also available at some and 7x7 are urbanhotels, chain superlifestyle print and online
markets and drugstores. publications covering
topics such as fashion,
entertainment, culture,
Telephone and
and food in the Bay Area.
Internet
The Bay Area hosts
San Franciscos area code every major TV and radio
is 415: omit this when
network. For local news,
calling within the city.
trafc, and weather, tune
Surrounding cities have
into KGO TV and radio.
Currency and
Banking
Opening Hours
Shops are generally open
daily from 10am to 5pm
or later. Some groceries,
drugstores, and supermarkets are open daily
from 7am to 11pm. Chain
stores and malls are often
open on holidays.
Banks are open from
9am to 5pm Monday to
Friday, and many are
open on Saturdays. Museums and attractions
have their own hours;
most are open daily.
Time Difference
The US is divided into four
time zones, with San
Francisco in the Pacic
Standard Time zone. Its 3
hours behind New York
and 8 hours behind
London. Daylight Saving
Time moves the clock one
hour ahead from the
second Sunday in March
until the rst Sunday
in November.
Electrical
Appliances
The US uses 110120
volts AC. If your
appliances use 220240
volts (as in most of
Europe), bring a 110-volt
transformer and a plug
adapter with two at
parallel pins.
Driving
Foreign drivers licenses
are recognized in the US.
Take care to notice
parking signs; parking
tickets are expensive and
towing fees run into
hundreds of dollars.
When you park in this hilly
city pointing uphill, turn
your wheels toward the
center of the street; when
Shopping
DIRECTORY
CURRENCY AND
BANKING
Travelex America
travelex.com
POSTAL SERVICES
Union Square Post
Oce
MAP P4 170 OFarrell
St
(415) 956-0131
TELEPHONE AND
INTERNET
InTouch USA
(800) 872-7626
intouchglobal.com
Open WiFi Spots
openwispots.com
NEWSPAPERS,
MAGAZINES, TV,
AND RADIO
7x7
7x7.com
Bay Area Reporter
ebar.com
KGO
kgo.com
San Francisco
Bay Times
sfbaytimes.com
San Francisco
Chronicle
sfgate.com
San Francisco
Magazine
sanfranmag.com
SF Weekly
sfweekly.com
140 Streetsmart
Dining
San Francisco has more
restaurants per capita
than any other US city and
chefs are celebrities in
this town of foodies.
Reecting the citys
cultural diversity, eateries
run the gamut from
Mexican taqueras to
Italian pasta houses, from
Chinatowns dim sum
parlors to sushi bars in
Japantown, and from allAmerican diners to some
of the best French
restaurants outside
Europe. The Bay Area was
the birthplace of
California Cuisine, an
approach to fresh,
seasonal, local
ingredients, and dramatic
presentation that changed
American restaurant fare
forever. Many of the
trendy restaurants in the
city are melding California
Cuisine with the exotic
tastes of Southeast Asia,
China, and Japan, a
combination called Asian
Fusion. Locals love their
neighborhood Thai,
Indian, Chinese, and
Italian restaurants
where they can ll up
without having to empty
their wallets.
Pacic Ocean seafood
tops the menus
throughout the city: freshcaught Dungeness crab,
Petrale sole, Point Reyes
oysters and clams,
calamari, rock cod, and
wild salmon. The fresh
seafood available in the
city makes for tasty
cioppino (a sh stew that
originated here), clam
chowder, and mixed grills.
Although Fishermans
Wharf restaurants are
pricey, some of the longestablished places, such
as Scomas (see p101),
Where to Stay
DIRECTORY
DINING
O the Grid
othegridsf.com
OpenTable
opentable.com
SF Gate
sfgate.com
Tablehopper
tablehopper.com
Duck Tours
sanfranciscoduck.com
Edible Excursions
edibleexcursions.net
San Francisco
City Guides
sfcityguides.org
WHERE TO STAY
Airbnb
airbnb.com
Bed & Breakfast
San Francisco
bbsf.com
Home Exchange
homeexchange.com
San Francisco
Whale Tours
sanfranciscowhale
tours.com
Hostelling International
norcalhostels.org
Urban Hiker
San Francisco
urbanhikersf.com
Vacation Rentals
by Owner
vrbo.com
Invented City
invented-city.com
142 Streetsmart
Places to Stay
Hotel Rex
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast
if included), taxes, and extra charges.
Hotel Kabuki
Hyatt Regency
MAP N6 5 Embarcadero
Center (415) 788-1234
www.sanfrancisco
regency.hyatt.com
Dis. access $$
The 15-story atrium lobby,
one of the largest in the
world, has long plants
trailing down, a waterfall,
and glass elevators.
This waterfront hotel
have been through a
major renovation,
completed in 2015.
Hotel Zephyr
144 Streetsmart
Palace Hotel
MAP P5 2 New
Montgomery St
(415) 512-1111
www.sfpalace.com
Dis. access $$
Dating from 1875, this
historic landmark hotel
emanates architectural
splendor. The gorgeous
Garden Court (where
traditional afternoon tea
is served) and the original
Maxeld Parrish mural in
the Pied Piper Lounge are
national treasures. The
rooms are wonderful, but
many do not offer views.
The Westin
St. Francis
MAP P4 335 Powell St
(415) 397-7000
www.westin.com
Dis. access $$
This grand San Francisco
institution still shines in
its public rooms, but it
has become a tour-group
mediocrity otherwise.
Nonetheless, the views
from the tower rooms are
still phenomenal.
Loews Regency
MAP N5 222 Sansome
St (415) 276-9888
www.loewshotels.com
Dis. access $$$
Located on the top 11
oors of the third tallest
building in Downtown,
this is one of the classiest
hotels youll nd in San
Francisco. It offers
splendid views over the
Bay and city. It was
formerly the Mandarin
Oriental, but it is now
run by Loews and in
2015 it re-emerged after
renovations were made
to its guest rooms, lobby,
and restaurant.
Ritz-Carlton Resort
1 Miramontes Point Rd,
Half Moon Bay
(650) 712-7000
www.ritzcarlton.com
Dis. access $$$
A rambling mansion set
on its own verdant bluff,
overlooking the Pacic,
this is the perfect retreat
from which to enjoy
the Bay Area. The resort
offers guests two golf
courses.
Claremont Hotel
Club and Spa
41 Tunnel Rd, Berkeley
(510) 843-3000 www.
claremontresort.com
Dis. access $$
This country club-style
resort in the Berkeley
Hills was built in 1915 and
still retains the feel of that
era. There are business
services, a tness center,
two pools, tennis courts,
and views of the Golden
Gate Bridge.
Fairmont
Hilltop Hotels
Hotel Sausalito
Hotel Drisco
16 El Portal at Bridgeway,
Sausalito (415) 3320700 www.
hotelsausalito.com Dis.
Four Seasons
access $
MAP P4 757 Market St
With a quirky back story,
(415) 633-3000
this inviting boutique
www.fourseasons.com
hotel has luxurious rooms
Dis. access $$$
and suites decorated in
Designed with the business pastel hues that offer
expense-account traveler park and harbor views.
Queen Anne
Stanford Court
Renaissance
MAP N3 905 California
St (415) 989-3500
www.stanfordcourt.com
$$
Long a business favorite,
this hotel is situated near
the top of Nob Hill, handy
to everything Downtown.
The stained-glass dome
in the lobby gives it a
grand feel. There are
marble baths and canopy
beds in some rooms.
InterContinental
Mark Hopkins
Inn on Castro
MAP E5 321 Castro
St (415) 861-0321
www.innoncastro.com
No air conditioning
Dis. access $
The very friendly owner of
this B&B seems to have
thought of everything to
make your stay in the
heart of the Castro as
pleasurable as possible.
Hes always ready with
maps and advice on
where to go. Comfort is
key, in bright rooms lled
with art and plants.
Meadowlark Country
House
601 Petried Forest
Rd, Calistoga (707)
942-5651 www.
meadowlarkinn.com
No air conditioning $
In the heart of the Wine
Country, this elegant
guesthouse is situated on
an estate with great
facilities such as a
mineral water hot tub
and heated pool, and a
Finnish dry sauna.
146 Streetsmart
The Parker
Guest House
MAP F5 520 Church St
(415) 621-3222 www.
parkerguesthouse.com
No air conditioning $
An Edwardian minimansion, located just
steps away from various
gay bars and restaurants,
this guesthouse has
expansive gardens
and sun decks.
stay, accommodations
are decorated with a
mixture of original art,
contemporary furniture,
and plants. The kitchen
comes equipped with a
dishwasher, washing
machine, and microwave.
Neighborhood
Hotels
Hotel Del Sol
MAP E2 3100 Webster
St (415) 921-5520
www.thehoteldelsol.com
No air conditioning $
Described as festive and
spacious, this boutique
hotel really is a ray of
sunshine. Bright colors
and cheerful patterns
greet you around every
corner, and the staff is
just as nice as can be.
This is an especially great
place to stay if you are
traveling with kids.
Phoenix Hotel
MAP Q2 601 Eddy St
(415) 776-1380
www.jdvhotels.com
Dis. access $
Johnny Depp, REM band
members, and the late
John F. Kennedy, Jr have
all stayed in this retrostyle motorlodge with a
courtyard pool, but its
located a bit too close to
the gritty Tenderloin area
for all but the most selfassured. Continental
breakfast is included, and
the popular restaurant/
bar attracts hipsters from
all across the city.
Marina Motel
B&Bs and
Guesthouses
Panama Hotel
Jackson Court
148 Streetsmart
Mountain Home Inn
810 Panoramic Hwy, Mill
Valley (415) 381-9000
www.mtnhomeinn.com
Dis. access $$
Step out of the door of
this quaint mountainside
inn and be blown away by
the spectacular views it
has of San Francisco Bay
and Mount Tamalpais.
Situated just 20 minutes
from Downtown, this
hikers paradise invites
you to meander to the
beachside town of Stinson
or to historic Muir Woods.
Afterward, indulge in
hearty gourmet meals.
Hostelling
International
Fishermans Wharf
MAP F1 Fort Mason,
Building 240 (415)
771-7277 www.
sfhostels.org
Dis. access $
This hostel offers free
breakfast, Wi-Fi, and
parking. Its just a short
walk to everything along
the Bayshore.
Hostelling
International
Downtown
Budget Hotels
Inn on Broadway
MAP E3 2201 Van Ness
Ave (415) 776-7900
www.broadwaymanor.
com $
All rooms at this nosmoking inn feature atscreen TVs, and coffeeand tea-making facilities.
Free parking and Wi-Fi.
Marin Headlands
Hostel
Fort Barry, Building 941,
Field & Bunker Rds
(415) 331-2777 www.
norcalhostels.org No
en-suite bathrooms No
air conditioning $
Dorms and private rooms,
some for families, near
Muir Woods and beaches.
The Mosser
MAP Q4 54 4th St
(415) 986-4400 www.
themosser.com No air
conditioning $
Its hard to beat this
location, less than a block
from the center of Market
Street and the nearest
subway station. The
Mosser has a few other
things going for it as well,
namely clean, Ikeafurnished rooms, great
prices, and a terric
bistro off its lobby.
Pinnacle Suites
The Gateway
Casa Luna
Apartments and
Private Homes
General Index
Page numbers in bold
Aquariums 16, 66
Beringer Vineyards 36
Architecture 5051
A16 74
Accommodation
apartments and private
homes 149
Biking 61
B&Bs 1478
AIDS 43
Baker Beach 59
Ballet 68
Balmy Alley 51
105
Alcatraz 5, 10, 1821,
Bars 767
6, 7
boating 61
Southern
ferries 135
Neighborhoods 114
Baseball 61, 80
Basketball 61
Native American
(Bingham) 29
Boats
Downtown 94
history 18
occupation 21
43
Banks 138
childrens attraction
20
Bloody Thursday (1934)
Blue Bottle Caf 76
667
29
Birdman of Alcatraz (lm)
Bank of America 50
9091, 97
escape attempts 21
Park 64
Bikeway 51
map 124
Maritime Museum 53
Maritime National
shops 130
Bay Area Discovery
Museum 67
Bay Area Rapid Transit
(BART) 134
Bay to Breakers race
5, 83
Historical Park 17
Model Yacht Club 63
port of San Francisco 17
sailing 60
Bolinas 127
Bolinas Beach 58
Botanica Yoruba 49
Angel Island 96
Bay Bridge 43
Botta, Mario 30
62, 67
689
Anglin, Clarence 20
Beach Chalet 51
Beaches 589
Bowling 63
Boxer, Barbara 43
Berger, Samuel 34
Cathedrals (cont.)
St. Patricks Cathedral
48
Brunch venues 77
1027
Clos Pegase 36
Budget travel 81
map 102
Clubs 7071
hotels 1489
Buena Vista Caf 76
Buena Vista Park 105
Bufano, Benjamin 22
Buses 134, 135
134
Cafs 767
Downtown 94
Caff Trieste 76, 92
California Academy of
Sciences 7, 267, 52
California Historical
Society Museum 32
723
Southern
Neighborhoods 113, 114
82
Chestnut Street 79
Le Colonial 71
667
shops 106
Childrens Creativity
Coltrane, John 49
Congregation Sherith
Israel 49
Museum 32, 66
China Basin 109
Conservatory of Flowers
24, 567
China Beach 58
Chinatown 5, 6, 7, 10,
Contemporary Jewish
Museum (CJM) 6, 33, 53
223, 87
Cottage Row 63
Credit cards 138
The Cannery 17
Crime 136
Capitola 129
Churches 489
Crissy Field 6, 98
Capone, Al 20
First Unitarian
Carnaval 82
Universalist Church 49
Crystal Way 49
Cars
Culinary Institute of
America 36
Currency 138
Customs regulations 136,
137
Church 49
St. Marks Lutheran
Church 48
Castro Street 79
Cathedrals
Symphony Hall 68
Assisi 49
de Young Museum 5, 7,
Cinco de Mayo 82
Cinema see Films
Dewey, Admiral 89
DiCicco, Oliver 51
DiMaggio, Joe 45, 89
Ferries 135
Ferry Building
Marketplace 47, 78
Doctors 136
Festivals 5, 823
Dolores Park 34
Filbert Street 89
Ghirardelli Square
Domaine Chandon 37
Fillmore Auditorium 47
Giannini, A.P. 47
Downtown 8695
Festival 5, 83
Films
Alcatraz 20
places to eat 95
Metreon 32, 67
shopping 93
Drake, Sir Francis 42
Dukes, Mark 49
Dutch Windmill 7, 24
Fish Alley 17
Fishermans Wharf 6, 7,
10, 1617, 97
Eagle SF 72
Fleet Week 83
Earthquakes 139
83
99
East Beach 59
Cafs; Restaurants
Chocolate Festival 83
Gitane 74
Glide Memorial United
Methodist Church 48, 63
Gold Rush 23, 423, 128
Golden Gate Bridge 10,
1213, 96, 119
exploring San Francisco
6, 7
inauguration 12, 43
San Francisco for free
81
statistics 13
Golden Gate Fields 61
Golden Gate Fortune
Cookie Company 22
Golden Gate Park 5, 11,
Foreign Cinema 74
The Embarcadero 97
bowling 63
Embarcadero Center 79
Embassies 137
model yachts 63
Fremont, John C. 47
nightlife 689
performing arts venues
689
Escape from Alcatraz (lm)
20
Exploratorium 67, 88
F
Fairs 83
7
land reclamation 25
80
sculptures 51
Galera de la Raza 55
Galleries see Museums
and galleries
Playground 67
Golden Gate Theater 69
Golden State Warriors 61
Goldsworthy, Andy 63
Garcia, Jerry 45
Golf 61
gardens
Memorial Church 63
Hotels 14049
48, 51, 87
Grant Avenue 79
Greens 74
Guesthouses 1478
1456
Gumps 78
neighborhood hotels
Koons, Jeff
Michael Jackson and
1467
Haas-Lilienthal House
Bubbles 31
51
Haight-Ashbury 47, 104
La Honda 129
Haight Street 79
Ice hockey 61
La Mar 74
In-line skating 60
Lafayette Park 57
Independence Day 83
Leonardo da Vinci 48
25
Hallidie, Andrew 14
55
Halloween 83
Hamon Observation Tower J
28
Harry Dentons Starlight
Room 7071
Hammett, Dashiell 44
Lexington Club 73
Jackson, Michael 31
24
Harveys 723
(1989) 43, 99
Japantown 103
London, Jack 44
Jazz 5, 69, 83
Hearst, Patty 45
62
Jews
Congregation Sherith
Israel 49
Hess Collection 7, 37
Hiking 60, 119
Contemporary Jewish
Hinduism 49
53
Jones, Jim 45
Macys 78
Historic gures 47
Madame Tussauds 16
105
History 423
Hitchcock, Alfred 13
Manson, Charles 45
Hoover, J. Edgar 20
Maps 67
Hopkins, Mark 47
Horse-racing 61
Hospitals 136, 137
Gun 20
Kerouac, Jack 44, 87
art galleries 55
Bay Area 124
beaches 59
Maybeck, Bernard 50
Mazda Raceway Laguna
Seca 61
Merced, Lake 119
Metreon 32, 67
day trips 65
Mezzanine 70
Childrens Creativity
Downtown 86
Fishermans Wharf 17
gay and lesbian venues
72
Bubbles (Koons) 31
The Midnight Sun 73
Museum 32, 66
City Art Gallery 54
Contemporary Jewish
Mighty 70
Haight-Ashbury 105
53
nightlife 71
North Beach 89
Exploratorium 67, 88
de Young Museum 5, 7,
11, 24, 289, 52
Oceanfront 116
Galera de la Raza 55
Money 138
Hess Collection 7, 37
Monterey Peninsula 64
69
Moore, Henry 68
55
The Presidio 99
Morgan, Julia 22
San Franciscos
Morrison Planetarium 26
Madame Tussauds 16
highlights 1011
Southern
Neighborhoods 1089
Wine Country 36
Marin County headlands
125
Morrow, Irving F. 12
Maritime Museum 53
Museo ItaloAmericano 55
Oakland Museum of
Motor racing 61
Mount Tamalpais 126
Muir, John 47
California 128
Pacic Heritage
Museum 54
Muir Beach 58
Presidio sculptures 63
Marina Green 6, 56
Muir Woods 64
Randall Museum 66
Maritime Museum 53
Maritime National
Murals
Historical Park 17
Market Street 79
Markets
Chinatown 23
Coit Tower 92
Museums and galleries
525
Institute 51
San Francisco Arts
Commission Gallery 55
San Francisco Museum
Marshalls Beach 59
Memorial 323
Martunis 73
Masonic Auditorium 68
Mathews, Arthur and
Lucia Kleinhaus 128
Maupin, Armistead 45
523
Bay Area Discovery
Museum 67
Cable Car Museum 15
California Academy of
Sciences 7, 267, 52
of Modern Art
(SFMOMA) 5, 6, 7, 11,
3031, 53, 110
Society of California
Pioneers 53
SoMarts Cultural Center
54
Oceanfront 11623
(cont.)
map 116
Marina Green 56
parks 117
Museum 53
Music
shops 122
festivals 5, 83
Exchange 23
Shakespeare Garden 25
Open Secret 49
Sigmund Stern
Orpheum Theatre 69
42, 43
80
Recreation Grove 57
Strybing Arboretum and
Botanical Garden 24
Yerba Buena Gardens 6,
7, 323, 57
Passports 136, 137
Pelosi, Nancy 43
Neiman Marcus 78
Newton, Huey 45
Garden 24
Rincon Park 57
Opera 68
989
Queen Wilhelmina Tulip
54
689
Personal security 136, 137
Pescadero 129
Pacica Beaches 58
Pharmacies 136
Pier 39 6, 7, 16, 97
Piranesi, Giovanni 50
Nightlife 7071
Planetarium, Morrison 26
Panama-Pacic
Nightclubs
Southern
Neighborhoods 113
Nopalito 74
Portola, Gaspar de 35
Nordstrom 78
Parades 823
Portsmouth Square 22
Alta Plaza 57
Aquatic Park 6
map 967
989
Conservatory of Flowers
24, 567
de Young Museum 28
Dolores Park 34
Oakes, Richard 21
Fort Mason 56
Oakland 125
Oakland Athletics 61
Oakland Museum of
California 128
Oakland Raiders 61
Ocean Beach 59, 117
5, 823
Private homes, staying in
149
Public art 51
Punchline Comedy Club
71
Church 48
St. Marys Cathedral 48,
50
Downtown 93
Oceanfront 122
82
Randall Museum 66
Redwood trees 64
Refregier, Anton 51
Restaurants 745, 140, 141 San Francisco Art Institute Sigmund Stern Recreation
Bay Area 131
Central Neighborhoods
107
51
San Francisco Arts
Commission Gallery 55
Downtown 95
Oceanfront 123
Southern
Neighborhoods 115
Rincon Center 51
Rincon Park 57
6, 7
Riots 43
oorplan 31
Slick, Grace 45
42
Smugglers Cove 77
Sobell, Morton 20
Society of California
Pioneers 53
SoMarts Cultural Center
54
Sonoma 36, 37, 65
Sonoma coast 65
Sonoma Raceway 61
Rockefeller family 29
Rodin, Auguste
Southern Neighborhoods
10815
Santana, Carlos 45
map 1089
nightclubs 113
Running 60
Sausalito 125
Russian Hill 87
Savio, Mario 45
and Carousel 32
shops 112
Schulz, Charles M. 55
Spectator sports 61
Sacramento Kings 61
Safety 136
earthquakes 139
Sailing 60
St. John Coltrane African
Orthodox Church 49
Center 49
Spreckels, Alma de
Bretteville 117
Spruce 75
Tet Festival 83
Stanford, Leland 47
Theater 689
Waterfront ramble 80
Wathernam, Frank 20
Stanley, Owsley 45
Weather 139
52
Tiburon 127
Steinbeck, John 64
Sterling Vineyard 36
49, 62
Tonga Room and
Museum 53
Western Addition 105
Westeld Shopping
Center 79
Hurricane Bar 70
Tosca 76
White, Dan 43
Stow Lake 7, 24
Winchester Mystery
House 129
Windmill, Dutch 7, 24
Windsurng 61
Travel 1345
Wine 37
spas 389
Treasure Island 96
Tribal, Folk & Textile Arts
Supperclub 71
Show 83
Womens Building 51
Woodside 129
Writers 445
Swimming 60
Synagogues
Xanadu Gallery 50
Sutter, John 42
Congregation Sherith
Taxis 135
Vaccinations 136
Vedanta Temple 49
Yoshis 71
Vesuvio 77
Yountville 7, 36
Temples
Israel 49
T
Tartine Bakery and Caf 76
Chinatown 23
Kong Chow Temple 49
Zen Center 49
Walking 81
Zoos
49, 62
Vedanta Temple 49
Tennis 60
Randall Museum 66
San Francisco Zoo 66,
119
158 Acknowledgments
Acknowledgments
Author
Native San Franciscan Jeffrey Kennedy now lives
mainly in Italy and Spain. A graduate of Stanford
University, he spends his time producing, writing,
and acting. He is also co-author of Top 10 Rome
and author of Top 10 Mallorca and Top 10 Miami
& The Keys.
Additional Contributor Karen Misuraca
Picture Credits
The publisher would like to thank the following for
their kind permission to reproduce their
photographs:
(Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-center; f-far;
l-left; r-right; t-top)
4Corners: SIME/Maurizio Rellini 14-5c; Susanne
Kremer 120-1.
Absinthe Brasserie & Bar: Postcard PR 107tr.
Alamy Images: Mark Bassett 50tl; Jan Butchofsky
25cra; Danita Delimont 62t; Design Pics Inc/Laura
Ciapponi 27b; Randy Duchaine 18cr, Dianne
Feinstein statue by Lisa Reinertson 43bl;
Enlightened Images/Gary Crabbe 119cl; Seth Grant
14bl; Michael Halberstadt 104bl; Dave G. Houser
63cla; Bob Kreisel 61cra, 67tr; Jackie Link 46bc;
Stefano Politi Markovina 4crb; Mountain Light/
Galen Rowell 12br; Eric Nathan 23clb; Nikreates
68t, 69cl, 80t; North Wind Picture Archives 42bl;
Wiliam Perry 35bl; PhotoBliss 116tl; The Print
Acknowledgments 159
Fillmore Street Jazz Festival: anupma/Denise
Lamott Public Relations 83tr.
Courtesy of Fraenkel Gallery, San Francisco: 54bl.
Gayles Bakery: Gayles Bakery 131tr.
Getty Images: Richard Cummins 66t; De Agostini
Picture Library 108tl; Rick Gerharter 130; Glow
Images, Inc 86tl; Hoffmann Photography 4clb;
Hulton Archive 43tr; Izzet Keribar 94t; The LIFE
Picture Collection/Ralph Crane 21bl; Lonely Planet
113tr; Tim Mosenfelder 81tr; Movie Poster Image
Art 13cb; Radius Images 118b; Redferns/Daniel
Boczarski 45cl, /RB 45tr; Ezra Shaw 61tr; Sports
Studio Photos 45bl; The Washington Post/John
Cohen 44tl; WIN-Initiative Labyrinth artwork by
Eduardo Aguilera formed of rocks overlooking
ocean 117b; www.35mmNegative.com 98t; Barry
Winiker 15tl.
Harry Dentons Starlight Room: Kimpton Group
70br.
The Hess Collection: 11crb, 37cr.
Marmalade: Marmalade 106tl.
Meritage Resort and Spa: Rex Gelert 39cla.
Midnight Sun: 73tr.
Moscone Center: SMG/SFCF/John Louie 33bl.
Oakland Museum of California: 128cla.
Outerlands: Eric Wolnger 123tr.
Pauls Hat Works: 122bl.
Paxton Gate: Jessica Watson 112br.
Powells Sweet Shoppe: 130c.
Quince: 95ca; Patrik Argast 74t.
Rex Features: 20tl; Hans Kwiotek 78br.
Jacket
Front and spine Robert Harding Picture
Library: P. Schickert.
Back AWL Images: Danita Delimont Stock t.
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