BASIC TARANTULA CARE

2000-2013, Michael Jacobi and TARANTULAS.com

INTRODUCTION
This page provides basic guidelines that will help new tarantula keepers
successfully maintain their pets. It is a concise overview of good
tarantula husbandry practices. It is not meant to provide all information
essential to tarantula keeping. To learn the specifics of caring for young
tarantulas please see Raising Young Tarantulas. Please also visit our Care
Videos page to watch excerpts from the "Tarantulas in the Terrarium"
instructional film on YouTube. We recommend that you also read at
least one of the books suggested in the sidebar of this page (Tarantulas
and Other Arachnidsand The Tarantula Keeper's Guide). It is also
important to research the specific needs of the species you have chosen,
especially with regards to temperature and humidity.
HOUSING
Tarantulas should be housed in small enclosures that are safe and secure.
Care should be exercised to ensure that the enclosure is safe from other
pets such as dogs and cats and placed out of reach of children. Locate it
in an area out of direct sunlight and drafts and where there is little
disturbance from vibration such as heavy foot traffic and loud music. It is
also important to remember that nicotine is a powerful insecticide and
tarantulas are best kept far away from tobacco smoke.
New keepers often use too large of enclosures. Tarantulas naturally live in
burrows or other small confined spaces and need the security of a small
space. A small cage also allows you to easily monitor its feeding so you
can promptly remove uneaten food. As a rule of thumb, an enclosure
should be two or three times the legspan of the tarantula in both width
and length. It is also highly recommended that the distance from the top
of the substrate to the top of the cage be no more than the legspan for
terrestrial [ground-dwelling] species. This is to prevent injury from a fall.
In the unnatural situation of captivity, some heavy-bodied tarantulas that
would normally not climb in the wild will explore the tops of their cages.
This can be a dangerous situation that can easily be avoided by using
shorter enclosures and deep substrate.

You can keep your tarantula in a very simple and inexpensive

plastic container with numerous air holes in the sides and lid, or a more
expensive glass terrarium container with a screen lid. Perhaps the most
popular tarantula cage is the plastic Kritter Keeper or Herp Haven.
These small terrariums have a snap-on well-ventilated lid with an access

door. They can be found at most pet shops and some superstores, and
there are some new models that are shorter in height and excellent for
terrestrial tarantulas. These low-profile models are marketed with names
like "Lizard Lounge" or "Breeder Box". Clear, plastic storage containers,
which are sold as shoe boxes, sweater boxes, etc. and manufactured by
companies like Rubbermaid and Sterilite are very popular with
tarantula breeders and others housing large numbers of tarantulas. They
don't make for very attractive displays, but with the addition of
ventilation holes drilled in the sides and top they make very functional
tarantula enclosures.
Tarantulas do not require plants or decorations, but they can be used if
you want to make your pet's home more attractive. Silk or plastic plants
are much more durable than live plants, and they eliminate the
possibility of the substrate and cage becoming too wet due to watering.
Of course, fake plants also do not require light and tarantulas prefer dark
cages. Cork bark, hollow logs and driftwood are attractive items to
decorate with and can provide your tarantula with a welcome hiding
place. Avoid any items that have sharp edges or are excessively rough in
texture. Also avoid any decor from outdoors that may harbor pest or
carnivorous insects or may have been exposed to pesticides, fertilizers or
other hazardous materials. When designing your enclosure remember
that terrestrial (ground-dwelling) tarantulas like more ground space and a
deeper substrate, whereas arboreal (tree-dwelling) tarantulas need taller
enclosures with a piece of cork bark or similar item to climb and attach
silk nests.
SUBSTRATE

Any sort of clean and natural dirt free of pesticides and

fertilizers is good. Chemical-free top or potting soil, peat moss and
coconut coir [popular as a reptile substrate and sold in compressed bricks
as Eco-Earth, Forest Bed, Bed-A-Beast, etc.] are excellent tarantula
substrates. Horticultural vermiculite can also be used with great success,
but it is unnatural in appearance, dusty and some products may contain
asbestos-like substances. Do not use sand [except as a small part of a
mixture containing mostly soil or peat], gravel, perlite or corn cob or any
other type of small animal bedding, especially cedar shavings. The
substrate should be as deep as the container allows, at least a couple of
inches whenever possible. This will allow you to pour some water down
the side and have the bottom depth damp while the surface in contact
with the spider is dry. Ideally, it is good to have a slightly damp corner

usually where the water dish isat one end while the other end of the
tank is dry. Over time this water will evaporate and provide beneficial
humidity. Replenish as needed taking care to not saturate the substrate.
DRINKING WATER
Although tarantulas acquire most of their water from their food, it is a
good idea to provide a small, shallow dish of fresh water to adult
tarantulas. The natural evaporation will also provide beneficial humidity.
It is more difficult to provide a water dish to small tarantulas, but a spider
with a legspan of a 50-cent piece or so is large enough for a simple tiny
water receptacle such as a 2-liter soda bottle cap. Provide clean tap
waterdo not use "cricket gel" or sponges, which just get dirty and
funky with bacteria and mold and do not provide sufficient moisture.
Water can also be provided by lightly misting the substrate and/or sides
of the enclosure. Never spray the spider directly and take care to not
create overly damp conditions. Most pet tarantulas are grassland or
desert species that should have a mostly dry cage, although having a
small, damp area near the water dish can be helpful [see Substrate
above]. Tropical species require elevated humidity. Research your pet's
needs and provide accordingly.
CLIMATE
Most tarantulas can be kept in the range of 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit,
which is room temperature in a warm home. In other words, most
tarantulas do not require supplemental heat in all but the coolest
households. Some tropical species may require temperature in the upper
70s during the day, but no tarantula should be kept much above 80 for
any extended periods of time. A fluctuating temperature is best, with
nights cooler than days.
When kept cooler than optimum tarantulas will become inactive, but
should be in no danger at temperatures comfortable to you. If heat is
required it is best to use a very small reptile heat pad placed near the
enclosure or on the side of a larger tank, but not beneath or in direct
contact as you would use it for a reptile. The use of lights for heat should
be avoided as tarantulas prefer dark conditions and radiant heat sources
such as bulbs create overly dry conditions, but a black or red
incandescent bulb placed several feet away from the cage can be an
effective heat source if used carefully. Keep in mind that the warmer you
keep your tarantula, the higher its metabolic rate will be. It will want to
eat more often and will grow more quickly. It will also dehydrate quicker
so you must be very observant of the environment and diligent with care.
If your tarantula species requires moderate to high humidity, you can
provide this by keeping the substrate partially or mostly moist. If you use
a light for heat and display, be sure to monitor the humidity levels
closely. Turn the light off at night unless it gets below 65 degrees in your

house. It is advisable to let the temperature decrease as much as 10

degrees at night, especially for desert tarantulas.
FOOD

Tarantulas will eat crickets, grasshoppers, katydids, moths,

beetle larvae (e.g., mealworms or superworms), houseflies and
cockroaches. Some tropical tarantulas readily accept earthworms, and
some larger tarantulas will accept live baby rodents, lizards, and snakes.
When feeding, a good rule of thumb is to offer prey items that are about
half the spider's legspan or just slightly smaller than the length of its
body. For example, a 2-inch legspan juvenile tarantula with a body length
just under an inch can be offered a half to three-quarter-inch cricket [3-4
week-old]. However, some tarantulas are aggressive eaters and will eat
prey as large as themselves. As a rule, live prey is required, however,
some tarantulas will scavenge on dead animals. This is especially true of
young tarantulas, and it is often possible to rear tiny spiderlings by
cutting an adult cricket into two or three pieces and offering one section.
For young tarantulas, one prey item of suitable size is appropriate. If you
are feeding comparatively small prey to a large tarantula, such as adult
crickets to an adult "Rose hair", you can offer 4-6 at one time. The spider
will attack them in succession and ball them up into one tidy meal. This
ball of food and silk that a spider ingests over time is called a bolus.
How often you feed your tarantula is up to you. Some people want their
spider to grow as fast as possible and will offer food almost every day.
However, offering food every 4-7 days for young spiders and every 10-14
for larger specimens is a reasonable regimen. Do not feed freshly molted
tarantulas for several days [young] to two weeks [adults]. Spiders, in
general, will keep eating until they are full, approaching a molt, or ready
to lay an egg sac. In a sense, you can't really overfeed young tarantulas,
but this isn't the case with adults. An adult tarantula might only eat once
a month or even as little as a few times a year in the wild. A tarantulas
abdomen should not be overly large and impede its ability to move about
with ease.
It is extremely important to remove any uneaten prey items whether live
or dead within 24 hours or so. I recommend offering food late at night

and removing it first thing in the morning if not accepted. Uneaten

insects or other prey items can be stressful for the tarantula, and have
been known to damage and even kill tarantulas if not eaten. Food
remains like the bolus will attract pests and mold. It is advisable to
remove the remains of any prey items from your tarantula's enclosure so
that they do not cause unhealthy conditions for your pet.
MOLTING
Tarantulas are invertebrate animals that need to shed their complete
exoskeleton in order to grow. This is the time when the tarantula is its
most vulnerable. Molting may occur as often as once a month in young
"spiderlings" or only once every year or two in adults. As a molt
approaches, the tarantula may refuse food, sometimes for several weeks
or even months prior to the process. If your tarantula refuses several
offered meals in a row it may be about to molt. Further evidence of an
impending molt is reduced activity, increased use of silk as it creates a
web"molting mat" and dull coloration. Species that flick urticating hairs
and have a "bald spot" on their abdomens are easy to assess. The light
bald spot will become increasingly dark until it is almost black. If you
believe your tarantula will soon molt it is extra important to make sure
you remove uneaten food [you should always be doing this!] and pay
close attention to temperature and humidity levels. A slight increase in
humidity is recommended [add water to substrate at one end of cage
and keep water dish full]. Leave the tarantula undisturbed, certainly do
not touch or handle.
When a terrestrial tarantula molts it will turn onto its "back" (arboreal
tarantulas molt on their backs or sides, often in a silken retreat above the
ground where they may be vertical). Don't be alarmed. It is not dead.
Dead tarantulas usually are 'right side up' and have their legs curled
beneath their bodies. Pressure changes within the molting tarantula will
cause its old exoskeleton to separate at the carapace and abdomen. It
will pull its legs out of its old skin much like you pull your fingers out of a
glove. The cast exoskeleton (or exuvium) looks much like a hollowed-out
complete tarantula. Once the process is completed the pale-colored
tarantula will rest for as much of a day and then spend the course of the
next week or so with its legs outstretched as its short growing process
occurs and its new exoskeleton hardens. Do not disturb or feed your
tarantula for at least a week after molting. A young tarantulas may fully
harden in three or four days, but an adult may require two weeks. It is
extremely delicate at this time and can even be injured by attempting to
flick urticating hairs off its soft abdomen. Leave it alone.
HANDLING
Some species of tarantula are known for their docile nature and are
handled by some keepers. Others have defensive dispositions and are

quick to bite. We do not recommend handling any tarantulas, primarily

for the safety of the spider. Tarantulas are extremely fragile creatures
that can easily be injured from a fall or other mishap. In addition, all
tarantulas are venomous and have the ability to bite. Their venom may
not be life-threatening, but it can cause severe pain and several days of
muscle spasms and cramps. Tarantulas are untamed animals and
unpredictable. They are terrarium pets like tropical fish or frogs and are
best enjoyed through observation and care, not interaction.
RAISING YOUNG TARANTULAS [AKA "SPIDERLINGS"]
2000-2013, Michael Jacobi and TARANTULAS.com
INTRODUCTION
Raising young tarantulas is often the most rewarding aspect of the hobby
for many keepers. Beginners are usually intimidated by the thought of
keeping something so small and fragile and usually will choose to stick
with adult tarantulas. However, once experience is gained, watching
young spiders grow from a speck to hand-size and seeing the gradual
transformation to adult coloration and pattern becomes a favorite
experience. If you have never kept a tarantula in captivity I do
recommend you start with a larger, adult spider (see Choosing A
Tarantula). For those of you ready to accept the challenge of raising baby
tarantulas, read on!
THE BASICS
Many people are surprised just how small many "big, hairy spiders" can
be. Lasiodora parahybana ["Brazilian Salmon-pink"] gets as large as the
average "Goliath Bird-eater" [Theraphosa blondi] about 10" [250 mm],
yet it begins life with less than a 0.25" [6 mm] legspan. The reproductive
strategy of the former species is to have a very large number of young
(often in excess of 2000 nymphs), few of which will survive to adulthood.
However, the latter species has closer to 100 nymphs and these begin
their lives with a legspan of almost 1" [25 mm]. The spiderlings [second
instar or older] of most terrestrial species are about 0.25" [6 mm],
whereas those of most arboreal species are at least 0.5" [13 mm] if not
0.75" [19 mm].
So how do we keep these little mini-tarantulas alive? It's easier than most
inexperienced keepers believe. The key factors are using a small escapeproof container that provides somewhat elevated humidity without
sacrificing ventilation, frequent feeding, and ensuring that uneaten food
is removed promptly, especially during a molt cycle.
HOUSING
There are many types of containers that are useful in raising spiderlings.
Most just require a little modification and many can be found at no cost.

It is important to use a fairly small container so that the spider and its
prey can "find each other" and eating and molting can be easily
monitored. A 40 dram vial is perfect for most spiderlings. It is not so
narrow as to make maintenance difficult and is not overly large. With
small spiderlings the diameter of the container may be several times its
legspan, but as it grows a container that is two or three times the
diameter of the spider's legspan is ideal. A spider can be successfully
raised to a 1" [25 mm] legspan in a 40 dram vial or baby food jar.

The most popular spiderling rearing

container is the vial such as that available through Thornton Plastics.
Vials allow a good depth of substrate so the spiderling can burrow (which
reduces the risk of desiccation) and they are clear so that the spiderling
is easily visible (if not burrowed). Other suitable containers include baby
food jars and 1-2 oz. [30-60 ml] plastic condiment cups. A container that I
like to use for terrestrial is actually designed for displaying a Matchbox
car (see Pioneer Plastics Model 164-C). Ventilation may be added to these
containers by drilling very small holes in the lid, or, in the case of the
vials, holes can be punched through with a miniature Phillips screwdriver.
(Note: soldering irons, which are useful for putting holes in plastic
containers housing larger spiders, make too large of hole to be of use for
ventilating rearing containers].
So, let's assume that you have a baby food jar and you have cleaned it
and drilled tiny holes in the lid for ventilation. Or maybe you have a clear
vial with poked holes. The next step is to fill it half way with some type of
substrate. Substrate choice is a matter of great debate among tarantula
keepers. Garden soil, top soil, unfertilized/untreated potting soil,
sphagnum peat moss, horticultural vermiculite and coconut coir (e.g.,
Bed-A-Beast, Eco Earth, Forest Bed) are most often used. I personally use
a 50/50 mix of sphagnum peat moss and vermiculite. Both can be readily
obtained at any nursery, home center or hardware store and are
inexpensive. Vermiculite is used as a soil amendment to allow roots to
breathe and water to be retained. It helps keep the mix from drying out
and provides structural integrity to any burrows. I mix the two in equal
parts in a storage tub and gradually add tepid water while stirring with a
trowel until the blend just begins to clump when squeezed in a fist. If
water is squeezed out it is too wet and you will need to add more
substrate to dry the mix until it will barely clump together. Moisture
content of the substrate may have to be slightly adjusted for species that

require particularly dry or moist conditions, but, again, err on the side of
dryness while trying to find the perfect balance. Even spiderlings of Asian
species that live in deep burrows in humid forest will die from excessively
damp conditions. In fact, I use extra caution to ensure that vials
containing Haplopelma spiderlings do not become wet. Experience has
taught me that even these "jungle dwellers" quickly succumb to wet and
stagnant conditions. If the substrate begins to dry out it can be
rehydrated with a brief light misting [avoiding the spider], or, better still,
the spider can be removed [see Manipulating Spiderlings below] and the
substrate can be moistened or replaced with fresh substrate.
I then fill the jar (or vial) halfway and pat down the substrate using my
fingers or the butt end of the trowel. I then add a bit more and pat it
down again until the jar is half full. Then I take the tip of a pencil or
something similar and make a 1" [25 mm] deep hole towards the side of
the container. This creates a "starter burrow" that most spiderlings will
retreat to and expand on over time. Placing it near the side of the
container often results in being able to see the spiderling even when its
in the burrow. Many spiderlings will make their way all the way to the
bottom and you will be able to clearly see it by looking under the
container. Spiderlings will acquire the water they need from their prey
[see "Watering and Feeding" below). They are too small to be given a
water dish. At this point you can add your spider and secure the lid.
Warm room temperatures [72-78F/22-26C] are sufficient for raising
most species and an external heat source is not needed and often illadvised. If you have a cool home you might want to use an aquarium
with an undertank reptile heat mat or similar heating device as an
incubator of sorts to house jars of spiderlings. However, make sure the
jars are raised off the bottom of this tank so that they are not in direct
contact with the heat source and that a thermometer is placed inside the
larger container and temperatures do not exceed 82F [28C]. I
recommend using a thermostat sold in reptile shops to control the heat
source. As a rule, external heat sources should be used for arachnids only
if necessary and ambient room temperatures should be tried first.
Excessive heat may kill the spiderling and will contribute to the substrate
drying quickly.
DELI-CUP STYLE CONTAINERS FOR LARGER SPECIMENS
As spiderlings outgrow the containers discussed above they can be
transferred to larger homes such as clear deli cups. I use clear Solo cups 12 or 16 oz. for terrestrial species and 32 oz. for arboreal species. Once
they outgrow these they may be ready for a permanent home such as an
aquarium, plastic "critter keeper" or gallon [4 l] jar (for small arboreal
tarantulas).
THE INSECT CUP FOR BETTER VENTILATION

I have become a big fan of using 16 oz. deli cups with

insect lids [see Superior Enterprise] for all young tarantulas instead of
vials. They provide significantly better ventilation than vials or similar
containers and you can fill them with much more substrate. Having a
greater depth and volume of substrate allows you to safely add more
moisture less often. It will evaporate over time and provide beneficial
humidity. At the same time, the great airflow offered by the insect lid
reduces the risk of poor ventilation and stagnant conditions. An added
benefit of the insect-style lid is that it prevents tiny flies and other pests
from entering your tarantula's home.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR TREE-DWELLING SPECIES
Arboreal species, such as those of the
genera Avicularia and Poecilotheria, will require slightly taller containers
such as a 50 dram vial. For these types of tarantula I only fill the jar or
vial about one quarter of the way with substrate, do not create a starter
burrow and use a small sprig of silk plant (for Avicularia, Psalmopoeus] or
a small piece of bark [Poecilotheria] to provide a climbing surface and
retreat. Arboreal tarantulas, especially Avicularia, will typically create
silken tube retreats at the top of the container. Misting is another topic of
hot debate among tarantula keepers, but I generally give a very light
misting - avoiding the spider itself - to the containers housing arboreal
tarantula spiderlings once a week. I ensure that there is enough
ventilation that the cage dries within a day or two. If the substrate
becomes increasingly damp you should increase the ventilation or
decrease the amount or frequency of misting. Damp, stagnant conditions
are always to be avoided.
WATERING AND FEEDING
As mentioned above, spiderlings are too small for water dishes and will
obtain enough water from their prey as long as the container doesn't
become very dry. Once a terrestrial tarantula has a legspan equal to or
greater than a 2-liter soda bottle cap I begin to use said cap as a water
dish. Always use fresh water. Do not use damp sponges or paper towel or
cricket gel. Sponges quickly become dirty bacteria breeding grounds and
are a thing of the past.
As also mentioned above, I do lightly mist containers housing arboreal
species as they are often more prone to desiccation and typically are
inhabitants of humid forest. However, many tarantula keepers are

vehemently against misting. The key to doing it right is to be very

conservative, avoid spraying the spider directly and ensure that the
container dries out within a day or two and the substrate does not
increase in moisture content. Once again, ventilation is more important
than humidity - all other things being equal.
The one thing that makes most potential spiderling keepers nervous is
feeding. Many people believe that "pinhead" crickets are necessary. The
truth is that most terrestrial and some arboreal tarantula babies will
scavenge and freshly killed larger crickets can be used as a food source.
Some keepers just smash the head of the cricket, while others cut large
crickets into a few pieces and offer each to an individual spider. Also,
many people underestimate the size of cricket or other insect a spiderling
will tackle. As a rule, a cricket should be offered that is approximately the
total length of the spider's body (excluding legs). Some species are very
aggressive feeders and will wrestle a cricket as large as their legspan to
its death! Arboreal species have slightly larger spiderlings that will
usually eat insects as large as their legspan and are often easier to find
food for. Regardless, true "pinhead" crickets are not required. One week
old crickets (0.125"/3 mm] are usually the right size for very small
spiderlings. Baby roaches [especially from small species such
as Nauphoeta cinerea ["Lobster Roach"], termites and maggots can also
be used. Fruit flies are too small and their flight presents problems except
for arboreal species, but some keepers do use them.
One of the most important things to remember when feeding spiderlings
is to remove any uneaten food or remains of prey immediately the
following day. Dead crickets will attract pests and produce odor. Live
crickets can injure or kill a spiderling if it is fasting in preparation for a
molt or is in the molting process (see "Molting" below). It is imperative
that you monitor your spiderling's eating and keep its container clean.
An appropriately sized prey item twice a week is a good feeding regimen
for spiderlings. Feeding less frequently will increase the risk of
desiccation since the baby tarantulas are acquiring their water from their
food. Some keepers like to "power feed" their spiderlings so that they
grow quicker and will offer food daily as long as it is eaten. Whether this
practice is detrimental to the health and lifespan of the spider is not
known, but the same practice does have adverse resuilts in higher
animals such as reptiles. Others will put several crickets in at a time, but
if they are too large to be grabbed in succession the way an adult
tarantula does the uneaten crickets [or other prey] may harass the
feeding spider. I recommend sticking with one prey item at a time and
feeding more frequently if desired.
Before leaving the subject of feeding I should answer a question that, as
a dealer, I get quite frequently. That is, "How long should I wait after
receiving my slings before feeding them?". Well, I have spent years

instructing my customers to wait a few days for the spider to settle into
its new home before offering food. However, it seems that most
customers will email me to let me know their package arrived safely and
let me know that the spiderlings are already eating. The fact is that even
after being boxed up and shipped across the country most spiderlings
that are not about to molt will never refuse a meal!
MOLTING
A tarantula needs to shed its exoskeleton periodically to allow for growth.
Obviously, this molting process will occur with greatest frequency when it
is young. Therefore, it is not unusual for a spiderling to shed every month
or two. Since most tarantulas will fast for a period of days or weeks prior
to a molt it is normal for spiderlings to refuse food every so often. That is
usually the sign that a molt is coming (you should also notice its
coloration to gradually become duller and its abdomen to darken). As
mentioned above, it is essential that food is not offered at this time. By
checking for remaining food every morning after feeding you will be able
to prevent the spiderling from being killed by a hungry cricket that
nibbles on it during a molt. I recommend waiting for about four days after
a molt to offer food again. During this time the spider will grow and its
new exoskeleton will harden. The spider will be particularly vulnerable at
this time and should be left alone as much as possible. The molted skin
[exuvium] should be removed as soon as possible after the spider is
completely finished molting.
MANIPULATING SPIDERLINGS
I almost called this section "Handling", but I certainly advise against
handling small spiderlings. They are small, delicate and too easy to lose.
But transferring them to another container or catching them should they
come out of the container during feeding or maintenance is often
necessary. The essential tool for this is a small artist's paintbrush. I use
cheap ones from the dollar store. Gently brushing the spider is the best
method of gently persuading it to move the direction you wish. Slightly
larger brushes should be on hand for those keeping adult tarantulas. The
use of a brush is safe and generally calms the spider rather than irritating
it.
RECORD KEEPING
I recommend that feeding and molting dates be recorded. As your
collection increases it becomes more difficult to remember when each
spider has been fed unless you only feed on a regular schedule. When a
meal is refused you can make a notation that will remind you not to offer
food again until after it has molted (assuming that is why it didn't eat).
Keeping molting records is a fun way to track the spiderling's "progress"
and will help you predict when it is due to molt and should be refusing
food.

SEXING
Once a tarantula has reached a legspan of around 2" [5 cm] an
experienced person can determine its gender using a stereo dissecting
microscope to look for the absence or presence of spermathecae in the
cast skin (exuvium).

CHOOSING A TARANTULA
2000-2013, Michael Jacobi and TARANTULAS.com
After reading this page, please also visit our Care Videos page and view
the video clip regarding "Choosing Species"
INTRODUCTION

One of the questions I am asked most frequently

is "which tarantula is best for the beginner?" Certainly each keeper's
needs are different, but typically what a person seeks in his or her first
tarantula is one that is easy to care for and calm in temperament.
Tarantulas in general are low maintenance pets, but those that are
easiest to care for are those that can be maintained at room temperature
in a warm home without any supplemental heat, and those that tolerate
a dry cage with a small water dish supplying the only moisture. These are
the grassland or desert species. Tropical varieties may require a little
more warmth and almost always require somewhat elevated humidity. As
for temperament, beginning keepers also understandably desire a
species that is not likely to bite. Some keepers wish to hold their
tarantulas. This is a controversial subject that I won't address at length
here, but I do not advocate handling. In short, tarantulas are extremely
fragile creatures best left alone. I consider them fascinating hands-off
terrarium subjects, no different than tropical fish or frogs. The spider
gains nothing from being touched and it is put at great risk of injury when
a keeper chooses to hold it. Personally, I have a dog and a parrot to
interact with. Others have ferrets or bearded dragons or boas. I enjoy
observe and care for my tarantulas - I don't bother them. I'll leave it at
that. But, all of the species mentioned here are those that have
dispositions that lend themselves to handling if the keeper chooses.
FIRST STEP

Read our Basic Tarantula Care Page.

SECOND STEP
Obtain and read "Tarantulas and other Arachnids" by Dr. Sam Marshall,
published by Barron's [2001] and available in specialty pet and reptile
shops, as well as from numerous online retailers [see link in this page's
sidebar]. Please remember that while there is an abundance of
information on tarantula care on the Internet, much of it is inaccurate.
Care sheets written by well-known breeders are best, as is the
information provided on the British Tarantula Society and American
Tarantula Society websites.
THIRD STEP
Buy captive-bred. There are many reasons why captive-bred animals are
superior, not the least of which are health and longevity and not
contributing to the capture of wild animals and destruction of habitat.
The young captive-bred tarantulas we sell allow you to raise them and
watch them grow for many years.
SPECIES DESCRIPTIONS
What follows is just a brief overview of species and is by no means
intended to be a primer on keeping tarantulas. The best beginner species
tend to be from the generaBrachypelma and Grammostola. These are
scrub desert or grassland species that are easy to keep and are typically
calm. They do flick urticating hairs, especially the Brachys, but these are
the spiders people choose when they are looking for something they can
touch or hold. A few others such as Chromatopelma and Avicularia are
excellent terrarium pets, but have a more skittish temperament.
click on linked popular name to view photo
Brachypelma smithi | Mexican Redknee
Brachypelma emilia | Mexican Painted Redleg
Brachypelma boehmei | Mexican Fireleg
The "red-legged" tarantulas from the Pacific coast of Mexico, best
represented in the hobby by these three species, are colorful, hardy and
usually quite docile. The Mexican Redknee, B. smithi, has been the
'classic' pet tarantula for over 30 years and there is good reason for that
(see photo at top of page). It is one of the most popular first tarantulas.
Now protected in the wild, the genus Brachypelma is well-established in
the hobby with captive-bred animals readily available. A female can live
in excess of 30 years making it a sort of heirloom pet. The most
significant problem with these tarantulas is their penchant for 'flicking
hairs' or rubbing the urticating hairs off their abdomens in defense.
People vary in their sensitivity to this irritant, but it is something to keep
in mind. Even the calmest specimens will 'flick' when disturbed, resulting
in a bald spot on the abdomen as these hairs are used over time. Of

course, these hairs are replaced with each molt and the bald spot
disappears temporarily.
Brachypelma albopilosum | Curly-hair
This Central American cousin of the red-legs is much more plainly
colored, but it has long, woolly 'hairs' and is large and 'gentle'. It is fairly
inexpensive and easy to raise, making it a terrific first tarantula.
Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens | Greenbottle Blue
This incredibly colorful tarantula inhabits a very harsh dry climate and, as
a result, is extremely hardy in captivity and a great choice for beginners.
It is a bit skittish and not recommended for handling, but it is an
excellent display species that will stay out in the open, is fairly active and
will create fascinating silken retreats. They are voracious feeders and
young spiders will take food as big as themselves. This is a hugely
popular species that we highly recommend.
Grammostola pulchripes (formerly G. aureostriata) | Chaco Gold-striped
or Goldknee
This is one of my favorite "pet" tarantulas. I like to refer to it as the
"Golden Retriever" of the tarantula world. It is big, beautiful and
extraordinarily 'docile', not to mention very easy to keep. Unfortunately,
wild-caught adults used to be so prevalent in the pet trade that very few
breeders focused their efforts on producing the species. Then Paraguay
closed to export of wildlife and these adults became scarce. Now only
captive-bred spiders are available, which is a good thing both for
hobbyists and the wild populations. But, they are slow growers and, as
already mentioned, they aren't widely bred.
Grammostola pulchra | Brazilian Black
This is one of the most in-demand tarantulas in the hobby and certainly
one of the most difficult to find. It is a deep black, gentle giant and an
exceptional terrarium pet, but has proven difficult to breed and imported
adults haven't been available for years. It commands a high price when
available, which is not very often.
Eupalaestrus campestratus | Pink Zebra Beauty
Although they don't get quite as large or colorful as the "Chaco Goldstriped", everything said about the chaco could be said about the PZB.
These are docile spiders. It is from the same country and also is no longer
available as wild-caught adults. But it is even less commonly bred, and
therefore harder to find, and seems to grow even slower.
Avicularia versicolor | Antilles Treespider
This is an arboreal [tree-dwelling] tropical tarantula. It's a bit more
difficult for beginner's to rear due to its more specific temperature and
humidity requirements. However, those who are willing to put in the
effort to maintain suitable conditions, are rewarded with a fascinating
spider that does well in a naturalistic terrarium [vivarium]. All of the
"Avics" or pink-toed tarantulas build silk tubular retreats and have
interesting habits.

Aphonopelma seemanni | Stripe-knee or Zebra

The wide-ranging genus Aphonopelma includes the spiders of the
American Southwest, which are plainly colored but hardy and easy to
keep. The most popular member of the genus is a much more attractive
Central American species known as the Stripe-knee. It is also often called
the "Costa Rican Zebra", but it actually ranges throughout much of
Central America with paler specimens coming from the north of the
range and still being imported as wild-caughts, while the darker, more
attractively colored 'true Costa Rican' form is only available as captivebred.
Grammostola rosea or G. porteri | Chilean Rose or Rosehair
I put this one last for a reason. I have to include it here because it is the
most common tarantula in the pet trade, with a seemingly endless supply
of wild-caught adults making their way into pet shops. It is the one most
beginners end up with. However, this is a problematic species that
frustrates many new keepers and may discourage further exploration of
the tarantula hobby. I don't recommend it. To read more about why,
please read my Chilean Rose Answer Page.
ARBOREAL TARANTULA HUSBANDRY
2005-2013, Michael Jacobi and ExoticFauna.com/ARACHNOCULTURE
magazine. This article was originally printed as "The Basics of Arboreal
Tarantula Husbandry" inARACHNOCULTURE 1(2) in May 2005. It is
presented here in its entirety with only a few minor corrections and
additions. The new ARACHNOCULTURE E-ZINE version with photos and
some expanded content can be viewed here.
INTRODUCTION
Above the ground we live upon exists a whole different world. While most
birds, many insects and one mammal are capable of flight, the majority
of the creatures that dwell above land inhabit vegetation, from tall
grasses and short bushes to the canopy of the highest trees.
The majority of theraphosid spiders, or tarantulas, live in or on the same
ground where humans tread. Most dig burrows into the earth where they
are protected from predators and live in a micro-environment often
cooler and more humid than conditions at ground level. These species
are called obligate burrowers. Other terrestrial tarantulas are more
opportunistic and find shelter in burrows or scrapes created by other
animals, natural crevices in the earth, or beneath leaf litter, fallen
branches and other ground cover. Still other tarantulas have adapted to a
lifestyle above the ground. These arboreal, or tree-dwelling, species have
a lighter build with thinner bodies and longer legs with increased tarsal

scopulation. That is, their legs are flatter and have thick setae ("hair") on
the edges of their metatarsi and tarsi, the last two segments of their
legs. This increased surface area at the ends of their legs allows them to
effortlessly climb any surface, while their light build gives them increased
agility and protects them from falls.
Arboreal tarantulas also differ in habits. Some live in low vegetation such
as high grasses, bushes and palm fronds [e.g., Heteroscodra]. Others live
in the trees themselves, seeking shelter among the leaves or epiphytic
plants like bromeliads [e.g.,Avicularia], or live in tree hollows or holes
created by birds or insects [e.g.,Poecilotheria]. Due to habitat destruction
many Poecilotheria, the ornamental tarantulas or tiger spiders, are often
found living in dead trees.
The specialization of the arboreal tarantulas requires that their captive
husbandry be modified from that of obligate burrowing, opportunistic
burrowing or terrestrial species. Their housing should be verticallyoriented tall instead of wide with retreats that approximate those of
their natural habitat. Their habits and reduced tendency to dig or
otherwise rearrange their enclosure makes them ideal tarantulas for
beautiful naturalistic vivaria with live plants. This article details methods
for creating a captive environment appropriate for the care and breeding
of arboreal theraphosid spiders.
SIMPLE CAGE CONSTRUCTION
REARING CONTAINERS
I raise early instar arboreal theraphosids in 20 or 50 dram clear vials,
later moving young of 1.5 in [38 mm] legspan to 32 oz. [1 liter] clear
Solo deli cups. The approximate dimensions of the containers are: 20
dram 1.5 in [38 mm] diameter x 2.7 in [68 mm] high; 50 dram 1.9 in
[48 mm] x 4.25 in [108 mm]; 32 oz. [1 l] cup 4.5 in [114 mm] x 5.75 in
[146 mm].

(NOTE: Since this article was originally written several

years ago I have discontinued using vials for all but the smallest of
arboreal tarantula spiders. Now preferred are the insect-lid style deli
cups that are used for raising fruit flies. These are like the
aforementioned deli cups, but have a ventilated lid with large diameter

holes that are covered by a soft fabric. This allows for increased
ventilation while preventing spider escape or the entrance of pest flies,
etc. When using these well-ventilated containers more careful attention
must be paid to maintaining sufficient humidity, but the flip side is that
they dry quickly and stagnant conditions are usually prevented. Even for
small second instarAvicularia spiderlings, I use the comparatively large
24 oz. insect cup and fill it 1/3-1/2 with substrate like coco coir and then
add a layer of damp sphagnum moss. These containers are available
from Superior Enterprise and other sources. See the Product Listing at
the end of this article.)
Elsewhere in this article I write of the use of beneficial organisms living in
the substrate, but in the very small confined space of the rearing
container I prefer more sterile conditions and use a slightly damp mixture
of coconut coir [e.g., T-Rex Forest Bed, Zoo Med Eco Earth] and
horticultural vermiculite [3 parts to 1]. Many young arboreal tarantulas
will burrow or create a silken tube that continues below the surface. This
mix makes it easy for them to create these retreats. I add substrate to a
depth of about 1/4 the container height and tamp it down firmly. A piece
of cork bark is situated vertically in the cage and a small leaf or two of
silk plant added. I do not use water dishes in these containers, but rather
mist a spot away from the spider so that it may drink from the droplets.
(See discussion of feeding and watering below.)
PLASTIC GALLON JARS [E.G., RUBBERMAID]
Clear plastic half-gallon and gallon jars, such as those made by
Rubbermaid, are excellent inexpensive containers for housing juvenile
arboreal tarantulas or adults of some of the smaller species. (Note: The
tall and rectangular clear cereal storage boxes are also very popular with
arboreal tarantula keepers. They conserve on shelf space for those with
large collections, and have handy lids with hinged smaller access doors. )

Drill several ventilation holes in the lid and use a

soldering iron to put several holes about 2 in [5 cm] above the jar bottom
and another series about 3/4 the jar height up from the bottom on

opposite sides of the container. If you have problems with winged pests
such as fruit or phorid flies affix microscreen (available from biological
supply house across the inside each group of air holes. Alternatively,
panty horsy or similar fabric can be used. Insect screening is only
effective against larger pests; microscreen can be obtained from
biological supply. As an alternative, panty hose or similar fabric can be
used.
I then add enough moderately moistened substrate to come up to about
a half inch below the lower ventilation holes. I personally use garden soil
(plain old dirt) or a 3:1 mix of coconut coir and coarse horticultural
vermiculite, but top soil, untreated potting soil, sphagnum peat moss and
vermiculite alone can also be used. Generally, I will add isopods, wood
lice or other "ground cleaners" to the substrate. They will help with prey
remnants, fungi, mold, etc. Some dry oak leaves and live moss can be
added for both aesthetics and to contribute to the "living soil".
I then use a glue gun to affix a 2 oz [60 ml] condiment cup [e.g., Solo
or Dixie] about 2/3 the jar height from the bottom, just below the upper
ventilation holes. Two cups are needed - one will be glued to the side and
become the holder, the other will be the actual removable water dish.
After sufficient time has passed to allow the glue to set, I add the second
water dish and put a silk plant leaf or flat rock inside to prevent prey from
drowning. Then I add the finishing touches the retreats for the spiders.
These are made from bamboo, cork bark slabs or tubes and silk plants.
The ratio of one to the other depends on the type of arboreal spider
housed. For Avicularia I use plenty of silk plant and less wood;
for Poecilotheria I primarily use bamboo and cork bark slabs or tubes and
just use a touch of silk plant for decoration. A hollow bamboo piece with a
round or oval entrance hole cut in the side is perhaps the ideal retreat
forPoecilotheria as it resembles the tree holes they naturally inhabit. In
between are the half bark/half plant habitats
for Psalmopoeus, Tapinauchenius, Heteroscodra,Stromatopelma, etc.
This type of jar should provide plenty of ventilation while retaining some
level of humidity. It is important to prevent damp conditions and
additional air holes should be added as needed to ensure the earth
becomes somewhat dry between "watering". Well fed spiders with access
to fresh water will survive dry conditions quite well, whereas dampness
and stagnant air will quickly lead to trouble. I re-moisten the substrate
periodically by either misting or carefully overflowing the water dish
when refilling. Misting has gotten a bad reputation in arachnoculture
because for most it implies overly wet, stagnant conditions or irritating
the spider. However, those are the result of improper or excessive
misting. I avoid spraying the spider and lightly mist the side opposite of it
and the water that trickles down the jar rehydrates the substrate. When

there are silken tube retreats, such as with Avicularia, I try to allow
droplets to form on the silk if I can avoid the spider.
10 GALLON AQUARIA

For spiders in excess of 4 in [10 cm] legspan I use 10

gallon aquaria oriented vertically [stood on end]. For the front I use ESU
screen covers with latching doors [ESU #22105 (see product listing at
end of article)]. I lay the screen top upside down on a table and use
heavy duty clear packing tape to neatly cover all of the screen (sticky
side out), except for the door. This will help prevent the rapid moisture
loss and cover most of the screen, reducing the hazard of "tarsal claws"
becoming stuck in the screen. If your tanks are housed in a humid area it
might be necessary to remove some of the tape to provide good
ventilation.
A water dish is added in the same manner as for the gallon jar. That is, it
is glued 2/3-3/4 the way up one side so it close to a perching spider. It
should also be located towards the front door to enable easy access
during refilling or cup replacement. However, for the glass tanks I use AllGlass aquarium silicone sealant instead of hot glue. Hot glue can still
be used and it will allow you to cleanly remove the dish holder if
necessary, but eventually the dish will fall because the glue doesn't bond
as well to glass as plastic. Often I will find the perfect piece of cork bark
and place it in the tank prior to gluing the dish holder so that I can
position the dish up against the cork, which will later allow the spider to
rest on the bark while drinking.
I use the same substrate usually good old-fashioned dirt and slope it
towards the back so it is shallower in front and doesn't fall out before the
cover (which is now the front) is added. Once again, dry leaves, moss and
other forest litter can be added and live or silk plants and cork bark can
be arranged as you choose. For Poecilotheria I wedge a 19.75 in [50.2
cm] length of 1.5-2 in [3.8-5 cm] diameter bamboo from bottom to top.
An oval 1 inch wide and 2 inch high opening is cut into the bamboo about
six inches from the top. (See discussion of retreats above.)

The final step is to attach the screen cover, which has already been lined
from the inside with clear packing tape except for the door. Electrical
tape is perfect for this: it stretches tight and blends in with the frame of
the cover and the black plastic molding of the aquarium itself. If the
taping is done neatly it will hardly be noticeable. Hold the cover tight
against the tank and wrap across the top frame and around the tank until
you overlap the entire front again and cleanly cut the tape. Repeat this
process around the bottom.
Refer to my ARACHNOCULTURE E-ZINE CREATING AN ENCLOSURE FOR
ARBOREAL TARANTULAS USING A VERTICALLY-ORIENTED 10 GALLON
AQUARIUM for an illustrated and more comprehensive guide to creating
this type of tarantula housing.
NATURALISTIC VIVARIA CONSTRUCTION
Whereas I house my Poecilotheria in the aforementioned 10-gallon
aquarium setups, with silk plants and no lighting other than that of the
room, I often create more elaborate vivaria for New World arboreal
tarantulas, particularly Avicularia, which often create silk retreats among
bromeliads or other plants and benefit from the natural humidity created
by live plants.

Live plants require light, and unlike basic cages

containing fake plants, the first consideration with naturalistic vivaria will
be the addition of a light source. A variety of plants will do well in low
light conditions, but some artificial light will be required to keep any flora
alive, including live moss ground cover. Because tarantulas are nocturnal
and usually shun bright light, it is best to use small compact fluorescent
tubes for lighting and use fixtures small enough to allow a darker area in
part of the cage. Expensive high ultraviolet fluorescent tubes designed
for reptiles are unnecessary for arachnids, and a number of bulbs
available at home centers will be sufficient for lighting and plant growth,
including plant and aquarium, "sunshine" or "daylight", and cool white
bulbs. Incandescent bulbs should be avoided as they waste much of the

energy in the form of heat, which is often undesirable for tarantula

husbandry.
A thorough discussion of using live plants and substrate is beyond the
scope of this article. In short, I like to use dirt on the bottom and slope it
towards the back of the vivarium. Live plants can either be placed in this
soil or left in small pots that will be hidden by the substrate. After adding
the plants I cover the soil with a 1/2 in [13 mm] layer of damp orchid
moss (sphagnum). On top of the orchid moss base is the third substrate
layer live moss. The orchid moss provides a bedding for the live moss
to root in and wick moisture. Live moss placed directly on soil usually
does not flourish and may die before long. Numerous plants can be used
as long as they are rinsed of any pesticides or insecticides. Unless you
have a great deal of experience with terrarium plants I recommend you
stick to inexpensive and hardy plants from your local home
center. Sansieveria, commonly known as the Snake Plant or Mother-inLaw's Tongue, requires a good deal of light, but has sturdy vertical
leaves. Bromeliads such as Neoregelia or Aechmea are good, especially
for Avicularia tarantulas. Good plants for lower light conditions include
Pothos and Rhododendron.
Other decorations for naturalistic vivaria include those used in basic
enclosures, such as cork bark, hollow logs and driftwood. When I collect
live moss I also find a great deal of nice hollow limbs covered in moss
and lichens. Natural-looking water dishes can be found at reptile shops
and, with the help of aquarium-safe silicone sealant, attached to the side
of the enclosure in a position where it is also supported from below by a
vertical log or bark piece.
(NOTE: The above photo shows a naturalistic vivarium created using a
custom white acrylic arboreal cage from Herpcages.com. Since this
article was written both Exo-Terra and Zoo-Med have released glass
terraria that are also excellent for creating naturalistic homes for
arboreal tarantulas and I have extensively used the Exo-Terra PT-2602
model that is eighteen inches tall and twelve inches square.)
FEEDING AND WATERING
I list feeding and watering together because I consider them to be two
halves of a very important whole. Nourishment and hydration go hand in
hand, and animals of all kinds receive much, if not all, of the water their
bodies use from what they eat. Feeding often will all but eliminate the
risk of dehydration. A frequent error made in arboreal tarantula
husbandry is over watering, whether by soaked substrate, heavy misting
or reduced ventilation in an attempt to provide "sufficient humidity".
Humidity is a measure of moisture contained in the air, not one of

substrate wetting or air exchange. Natural humidity comes from live

plants and evaporating water dishes, and hydration comes from food and
drink. A well fed spider is a hydrated spider. Still, every tarantula large
enough to have a dish should have one filled at all times. The housing
suggestions above describe different ways of providing elevated water
bowls for arboreal tarantulas. Only spiders housed in rearing containers
need water provided by other means. Misting, when correctly done,
provides a simulation of rainfall and allows the spiders to drink from
droplets as they would naturally. There are two things to avoid when
misting: spraying the spider and saturating the substrate. A light misting
that allows droplets to form on the vivarium sides and contents is all that
is needed. If the substrate has not dried 24 hours later, the quantity of
water used when misting must be reduced.
Arboreal tarantulas will accept most of the standard feeder insects such
as roaches and crickets. Catching winged insects, such as katydids and
moths, can provide some variety. Many larger arboreal tarantulas will eat
lizards (e.g., anoles) and treefrogs, and even descend to the ground to
snatch a nestling mouse or rat. As mentioned above, I am a firm believer
in keeping tarantulas hydrated by feeding often. Frequency of feeding will
depend on the type and size of prey offered, but I like to offer food, in my
case primarily roaches, to spiderlings two or three times a week,
juveniles once or twice a week, and adults weekly. In general, spiderlings
will accept prey the length of their body once they have molted a few
times, but should be offered prey slightly smaller than that for the early
instar stages, especially for tiny young likeTapinauchenius.
VENTILATION
In an effort to elevate relative humidity many keepers resort to reducing
airflow through the vivarium. This is neither good for the spider or any
live plants. Moisture can be easily added, but not removed. The use of
live plants, full water dishes and appropriate misting will provide natural
humidity for tarantulas. Stagnant air with poor ventilation will lead to a
host of problems, including mites, flies, fungus and mold. I periodically
spray a fair rainfall into my cages, but the substrate is not overly wet the
following day. If low humidity is a problem I recommend using a room
humidifier to increase the moisture in the air flowing through the
vivarium rather than making things wetter within it.
HEATING
My advice for heating vivaria for arboreal tarantulas is the same as that
for all tarantulas; only provide supplemental heat if needed. In other
words, having a warm room or closet is preferable than using heat tape
or pads to provide heat, and as long as your tarantula is feeding well it is

probably warm enough. In fact, in most cases, ambient (room)

temperature is sufficient, especially if that room contains some reptile
cages giving off their own heat. Generally, the hobbyist will have access
to an area that fluctuates from 68-80F [20-27C]. If additional heat is
required and cannot be provided with a space heater around the cages,
heat mats or tape sold in reptile shops can be used, but should be
controlled by a thermostat. For vertically-oriented tanks I like the small
adhesive-backed mats such as the small or medium Exo-Terra Heat
Wave Rainforest mounted to the middle of the back of the vivarium.
A BRIEF OVERVIEW OF SPECIES
Arboreal tarantulas are popularly considered to be only for experienced
keepers due to their supposed delicate nature when young and their
speed and temperament With the exception of some species of
Avicularia, arboreal tarantulas are best kept with minimal keeper
interaction and no handling. It is true that all species are very quick and
some are very nervous. It is also true that some have what is believed to
be the strongest of all tarantula venom, particularly the tiger spiders
of Poecilotheria and their fellow Old World
genera Heteroscodra and Stromatopelma. However, with a few
considerations in mind most hobbyists will enjoy keeping these spiders.
One is that a cage with a number of good retreats will typically result in a
calmer spider that will run to hide rather than stand in defense. In a bare
cage a startled tarantula may indeed run towards an exit made by
opening the cage, but a well-designed cage will provide security that will
be chosen over flight. Another is that servicing a cage should be
performed with rubber-tipped forceps. Uneaten food, cast skins, and
water cups can easily removed from a safe distance with this essential
tool.
There are a number of other tarantulas that either have arboreal
tendencies when young, yet later become terrestrial or burrowing
(e.g., Ephebopus, Hysterocrates gigas), and others that are semi-arboreal
(Haploclastus, Cyriopagopus schioedtei, C. sp. "Singapore"
(Lampropelma violaceopes) or occasional climbers, but they'll have to be
covered in a future article.
NEW WORLD
Avicularia This genus contains some considerably docile species,
such as A. avicularia and A. metallica, and are recommended for
beginner arboreal tarantula keepers. Although jumpy, they are less so
than many other congenerics (members of the same genus) and seldom
bite when handled gently. Two species that generally have a more
defensive nature and might very well bite are Avicularia

braunshauseni and A. laeta. Avicularia are commonly referred to as "Pink

Toes" or "Avics" and a number of species are available in the hobby
including the technicolor A. versicolor and the big, woolly A. huriana.
These spiders form silken tube retreats, often among vegetation, and
quickly make nests in their cages. Avicularia spiderlings are usually easy
to raise with the most common mistake being keeping them too
damp. Avicularia may quickly dehydrate, but if they are fed often this risk
is all but eliminated. A quick shower of a few droplets onto their silk
retreat once or twice a week is recommended as well, but care must be
taken to prevent constantly damp substrate.
Iridopelma This genus contains three species. I. hirsutum is the one
most prevalent in arachnoculture, but it is far from common. Care and
habits are similar to that of its cousin Avicularia. It is a nervous, fastmoving species.
Pachistopelma This genus contains two small species that are not
common in captivity.
Psalmopoeus These spiders get large and usually have an attitude to
match. From the orange-accented, olive P. cambridgei to the Halloweencolored P. irminia to the smaller and more somberly colored P.
pulcher and P. reduncus, these are impressive and beautiful display
spiders. If disturbed they will quickly rear-up and not hesitate to strike,
but if left alone they tend to settle down and remain in their retreats
during cage maintenance.
Tapinauchenius These are some of the fastest of all tarantulas. With
the exception of T. gigas, they are generally smaller than other arboreal
tarantulas exceptPachistopelma and some dwarf species of Avicularia.
Lacking the gaudy coloration of some of the other tree-dwelling
theraphosids, "Taps" have a velvety sheen that ranges from bronze to
silver to mahogany to purple. Spiderlings are small and require close
attention. They should be fed often with small insects until they have
molted several times.
OLD WORLD
Encyocratella olivacea (formerly Xenodendrophila gabrieli) This
Tanzanian arboreal has only been recently described and only a small
number have entered the hobby.
Heteroscodra Only H. maculata is commonly found in the hobby. This
grey ghost tends to build silk retreats towards the bottom of the cage,
although some will spend a fair amount of time perched high on a
vertical piece of bark.

Stromatopelma Similar to Heteroscodra in habits, albeit a bit more

high-strung. The "red" color morph found in the hobby is an incredibly
beautiful spider with feathery setae that gives it the common name of
"Feather-leg Baboon Spider".
Poecilotheria The queen of arboreals, at least to this keeper. Many
keepers fear these spiders because of their reputation for speed and the
extremely painful bites reported by a number of hobbyists. P. regalis is
the "classic" species of this genus and possibly the best species for the
beginner, who should avoid the more easily agitated species like P.
fasciata and P. ornata. However, when inside their cages and not
provoked these tend to be among the calmer of the arboreals, much
more so thanPsalmopoeus irminia, for example. These are the largest of
the arboreal tarantulas, with Poecilotheria ornata and P. rufilata capable
of leg spans in excess of 8 or 9 in [20 or 22.5 cm]. Poecilotheria are
among the most hardy of the arboreal tarantulas, tolerating somewhat
dry conditions if provided with water and frequent food. Care should be
taken that the three montane species [P. rufilata, P. smithi and P.
subfusca] rare not kept dry for extended periods and are not exposed to
temperatures exceeding that of a comfortable room.