Build Your Own Smoker from a 55-Gallon

Drum
A steel drum and a few plumbing parts make up this noweld smoker you can build with just a few hours of work.
Add meat and smoldering woodand get ready to feast.
Reed Young
By Joe Kohl-Riggs
Jun 15, 2012

4.8k
A steel drum and a few plumbing parts make up this no-weld smoker you can
build with just a few hours of work. Add meat and smoldering woodand get
ready to feast.

1 Build Your Own Smoker From a 55-Gallon Drum

Men can admit that they like making barbecue

because it's not really cookingit's

a DIY project that ends with eating meat. After a few years of cooking with
smoke, I got good at it. Then, after a few more years, I fancied myself a magician,
shrouding my cheap cuts of meat in the mystery of secret-recipe dry rubs, brines,
sauces, and blends of flavoring woods.
PARTS LIST
DIY Smoker (PDF, requires Adobe Reader)

But it wasn't enough. I wanted to own every step of the process. My landlord said
no to raising livestock in the apartment, so that left building the smoker itself to
express my rugged individualism. Online research led me to the ugly drum
smoker, which rightfully enjoys a cult following. Using a 55-gallon steel drum and
parts found in any decent hardware store, the design produces an exceptional
smoker. Building it is like barbecue itself, turning modest ingredients into
something truly satisfying.
Reed Young

2 1 Assemble the Four Air Intakes

Using -inch threaded pipe and fittings (see Parts List), connect the close nipple
to the 90-degree elbow and the elbow to the 24-inch-long pipe. Slip a U-bolt and
mounting plate over the pipe, then attach the brass ball valve. Hand-tighten the

parts. Then clamp the elbow in a vise, and secure the connections with a wrench
on the valve's facets.
Reed Young
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3 2 Make the Lid Handle

Hand-tighten a -inch close nipple into the flange pipe fitting. Align the -inch
opening of the reducing elbow over the nipple, and turn the elbow onto it. Thread
the 6-inch-long piece of -inch pipe into the elbow, and tighten the connection
with pliers. Slip the spring handle over the pipe, and thread the cap onto the
pipe's end to hold the handle in place. The entire assembly will be bolted to the
lid in a later step.
Reed Young

4 3 Construct the Fire Basket

Cut a 12 x 48inch piece of expanded metal.

The best way to do this is to mount

the material to plywood with drywall screws, mark the dimensions with a
Sharpie, and make your cuts with an angle grinder and cutoff wheel. Then mark
the metal lengthwise 2 inches from the bottom; align the charcoal grate on the
mark, and roll the metal into a cylinder.
Where the metal overlaps, secure the cylinder using three -inch stainless steel
bolts, washers, and nuts. Use two bolts above the grate and one below it, then
space the remaining three bolts evenly around the basket's circumference. Form
the handle out of stainless steel wire. Thread one end through the basket and
twist the wire back on itself. Take the free end of the wire and do the same at the
other side of the basket.
Reed Young
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5 4 Prep the Barrel

Use a 55-gallon food-grade drum with anopen head. (Some drums are treated
with epoxy to prevent rust, but meat smoked in such a barrel is toxic.) You can
buy a new drum at an industrial-supply store for $150 or less or a used one online
for a mere $20. Make sure that the drum and lid are untreated, and buff their
insides with a scouring pad or fine sandpaper.
Mark an 11-inch-diameter circle centered on the lid. Using a step bit, drill eight
equally spaced -inch holes around the circle. Thread a -inch pipe plug into

each hole. Place the handle assembly on the lid. Mark the four bolt locations; drill
them with the step bit. Bolt the handle to the lid.
Mark the hole locations for the air intakes, grill supports, and thermometer. Start
each hole with a center punch, and bore the 1-inch intake holes with a step bit.
Test each one by threading in a -inch close nipple. Using a -inch bit, drill the
grill-support holes. The hole size you make for the thermometer depends on the
model.
Add the air intakes by placing the close nipple into each hole and rotating the
assembly. Align the intakes vertically, mark the U-bolt locations, drill on the
marks, and slip a faceplate on either side of the barrel wall. Then tighten the nuts
on the U-bolt. Secure the air intakes at the barrel's base by threading the pipe
locknuts onto the close nipples. Create grill supports using the -inch bolts,
washers, and nuts. Attach the thermometer with its included nut.
Reed Young

65 Fire It Up
untreated charcoal, ignite it (use a coal
Before you cook, load the fire basket with
chimney, not lighter fluid), and attach the lid. Fiddle with the intakes to make
sure they're working, and let the fire burn hot to season the barrel and remove
any impurities. After this dry run, stoke 6 to 12 pounds of charcoal in the fire
basket, and add two or three fist-size chunks of flavoring wood, such as cherry,
hickory, oak, or maple. Place the basket in the smoker and the grill on its
supports. Drop on the lid, and open the intakes. When the thermometer reads
350 degrees, close all but one valve to reduce the heat. Dial in a temperature from
215 to 250 degrees by adjusting the intakes. Load the grill with meat, and settle in
for the long haul with some good company.
Reed Young
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7 The Delicious Chemistry of Smoking Meat

Smoking takes 3 to 18 hours or more andoccurs over indirect heat maxing out at
215 to 250 F. Tough cuts such as beef brisket and pork shoulder make the best
barbecue because they contain a lot of collagen protein, which forms the fiber
that surrounds the lean muscle. Over low heat collagen breaks down into gelatin,
which is as tender as, well, Jell-O. In labspeak, the collagen converts into
hydrogen and hydroxide. This process, which occurs most readily at 140 to 160 F,
makes the meat moist. By contrast, when a tough cut is prepared at high heat
(say, in a 450 F oven), the muscle fibers cook through before most of the collagen
converts to gelatin. The result is a tougher, drier finished product.