CFF Fall 2016

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fall 2016
cider press
Revival
jam
cocktails
Breakfast Eats
ay
Mond
The Story of
podunk
popcorn
cover photo by Winter Caplanson at Devon Point Farm
Fall 2016 volume six

Pg. 4.....................................................................Letter from the Editor Winter Caplanson
Pg. 6.......For Starters: Sourdough at the Tiny Acre at Big Oak Farm Matt Skobrak
Pg. 16....A New England Odyssey: Devon Point Farm Raw Cider Mill Erick Taylor
Pg. 28..................................................Restore, Revive, and Rejuvenate Amy Benson
Pg. 38...............................................Get Poppin' with Podunk Popcorn Dan Dzen
Pg. 56..............................................Making Apple Jelly at Averill Farm Winter Caplanson
Pg. 68................................Jam Session with Bear's Smokehouse BBQ Justin Morales
Pg. 78..........................................................Head. Heart. Hands. Health. Amy Smith
Pg. 86..........................Timing is Everything: Adventures in Foraging Gena Golas
with Chef Jesse Powers
Pg. 107.................................................................Kinship and Coriander Kelley Citroni
Pg. 114.............................................................................Monday Brunch Rebecca Hansen
Pg. 122...............The Stone Whisperers: The Art of the Stone Waller Laura Graham
/Basics of Repairing a Dry Stone Wall
Pg. 150.................................................................................Contributors
Winter Caplanson
Pg. 138..............From New Orleans to New Milford: Getting to Know Hilary Adorno
Chef Joel Vielhand
Letter From the Editor :
Welcome to
Connecticut Food
and Farm
Magazine!
Although this is our sixth quarterly issue, many

readers are just finding us! So where, exactly,
have you landed?
This is an insider's guide, sharing the stories of
Connecticut's local food movement. created by a
kitchen cabinet of farmers, chefs, and makers
from around the State.
Fall '16 is chock full of beautiful images and great
articles. Who's writing? Of 10 articles, three this
issue are written by farmers, three by chefs, and one
by a chef - turned - farmer. Our cover model is also
both a chef and a farmer! This is the real deal.
Part Foxfire Book. Part Storey Country Wisdom
Bulletin. Part Vermont Life transplanted
to Connecticut.
Sound good? Then youre in the right place.
Were glad youre here.
Winter Caplanson
Editor in Chief
CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016
Winter Caplanson Photo
ctfoodandfarm.com
e
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A
y
m
n
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i
a
T
F
e
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TBig Oak
at
ctfoodandfarm.com
own and operate The Tiny Acre at Big Oak

Farm in Woodstock. Founded in the winter
of 2015, The Tiny Acre lies on a small, leased
plot and practices bio-intensive farming
techniques committed to growing diverse,
delicious, organic produce. The Farm focuses
on growing petite varieties of their crops,
enabling The Tiny Acre to maximize their space
and turn out a higher yield. Matt and Callah
also Bentley Brewing Company employees,
business partners, and life partners shared
their combined knowledge of farming and
fermentation with CT Food and Farm Magazine
by way of a versatile and user-friendly
recipe for Sourbeer Flatbread.
ctfoodandfarm.com
Maintaining a sourdough starter is like having a pet a gloopy, bubbling,

high maintenance pet that you can't take for walks, snuggle with, or
teach tricks. While sourdough breads may be, quite possibly, the best
thing in the world, making them at home can prove to be intimidating
and cumbersome.
No two sourdoughs starters are the same; the particular bacteria and
yeast on my farm may be different than that of your apartment, your
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familys house, or the neighborhood bakery. Creating a product from

a sourdough starter requires a great deal of skill, patience, intuition,
and experience. It's like opening your door to the feral cat you don't
quite know how its going to turn out, but you will proud of yourself
for at least trying.
It's all about fermentation naturally occurring process in which bacteria
and/or yeast consume sugars and produce carbon dioxide, acids, volatile
aromatic compounds, and alcohol. This process results in everything
from beer and wine, pickles and cured meats, to kombucha and cider
vinegar. Fermentation is everywhere, and most importantly, delicious.
Traditional methods for making sourdough call for making a slurry of
flour and water and exposing it to the open air. Bacteria and yeast in
the air find their way into the mixture and begin feeding on the sugars
in the flour, reproducing and eating. Over time, the slurry becomes
a sour, yeasty mass that can then be used make leavened bread. This
method can take weeks even months of constant upkeep. It is a
labor of love.
What if I told you that there is a simple method of making sourdough that does not necessarily require the commitment of time
and skill as the traditional method - the results of which are incredibly
flavorful? The trick is sour beer; it is soured by a process not unlike sour
dough. The purposeful introduction of wild yeast and bacteria to the
fermenting beer results in funky flavors that range from fruity, earthy,
sour, and tangy to even sweaty or barn like.

The lactic and acetic acid produced as a
by-product of the bacteria contribute an
element of complexity to the final brew
that is absent in most ales and lagers. Sour
beer is becoming more readily available as
brewers work tirelessly to meet the demands
of craft beer drinkers. Several Connecticut
breweries are producing killer sour beers;
Black Hog Brewing Companys Disco Pig
Series, and OEC Brewing, both in Oxford,
come to mind.
For this recipe, I use Farmhand a barrel-aged
sour red ale from Bentley Brewing Company
in Southbridge, MA. Callah and I split our
time between Bentley and our farm, The
Tiny Acre; she does the brewing and I do
sales and distribution. (Seriously, I have no
complaints our lives revolve around beer
and food.)
(cont'd on pg. 96)

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Combine the rye flour and sour beer in a

mason jar; let it sit until you are ready to
make your flatbread. You can use it right
away or wait up to two weeks. Just as it is
with traditional sourdough, the longer the
starter sits, the more flavorful it becomes.
When you finally get around to making
your flatbread, all you have to do is mix
in the bread flour, olive oil, salt, and yeast.
If you have a stand mixer, slap the dough
hook on and knead for five minutes. If you
do not, you are going to have to kick it
old school and knead the dough by hand.
After kneading, toss the dough into a
mixing bowl, drizzle with a bit of olive oil,
and cover with a wet towel. When the
dough doubles in size, punch it down
and divide it in half. Pre-heat your oven
to 450. Roll the dough out into whatever
shape you wish. Round, oval, rectangular,
or triangular it's your dinner and I'm not
going to tell you what to do.
Professional pizza ovens run 800-900;

but, you can replicate the roasty, toasty,
smoky flavor of traditional pizza by taking
some additional rye flour and toasting it
in a saut pan until it smells like popcorn.
Use this toasted rye flour to dust your
pizza stone, or in my case, an upside down
baking sheet. Toss the rolled out flatbreads
on the stone and par cook for five to six
minutes.
At this point, go crazy! We are talking
pizza, here; top with whatever you want!
Then, pop it back in the oven for five
more minutes, until it's cooked through
and crisped just the way you like it. Pop
open a bottle of sour beer and enjoy.
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Devon Point Farm

Raw Cider Mill
By Erick Taylor
Photos by Winter Caplanson
16
Like wine, not all cider is created equally; the

land, the variety of apples, the recipe, and the milling
have everything to do with the flavor. Cider-making
is a craft, and like so many others, vintage equipment
seems to add some intangible edge to the finished
product. The apples must be from true cider apple
trees, hand-picked, individually-evaluated, and washed
with brushes and pressurized, fresh water before they
can enter the mill. The process, setting, atmosphere,
and ultimately, the taste of the finished product, all
dictate the quality of your drinking experience.
Devon Point Farm, located in a New England farmstead
among the rolling hills of Woodstock, produces cider
made in small batches from vintage apple varieties
grown in a century-old orchard which is never
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sprayed. Varieties include rare antique Rhode Island

Greening, Baldwin, Rome, Sheeps Nose, early and
cultivars of Red and Golden Delicious. The apples are
pressed on a massive piece of working history thats
just as old as the farm itself.
This is the story of Patty and Erick Taylor and their quest
for a fully-functioning original Boomer & Boschert
apple press. It illustrates their collective dedication
to maintain traditions older than our Constitution.
Tracking down, transporting, restoring, and repairing
18th and 19th century machinery is a dreadfully slow
and difficult task. But, for the Taylors and countless
farmers, makers, and artisans in Connecticut a vintage tool is synonymous with a high-end ingredient.
Without it, something in the final product is missing.
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refurbished the building into a suite of offices. Too

enormous to move, the press was left in the corner
of the buildings newly-renovated, wood-paneled,
carpeted boardroom, as a showpiece of American
history gone by.
In 2001, Erick and Patty
Tay l o r
visited
an old cider mill; the owners were helpful and forthright in explaining what it would take to mirror their
achievement. Now that apple cider can be purchased
throughout the fall at supermarkets, Erick and Patty
learned that a successful cider mill would have to be a
place where guests could visit, watch the cider being
made, enjoy a taste, and watch the ingenious, traditional
equipment at work. In order to do that, they needed
a press.
The challenge was that vintage presses are long out
of use. There are less than a handful left in the entire
country; and, those that remain are continuously in
use and usually owned by the same family for multiple
generations meaning, very few are willing to part with
such a precious vintage machine.
Undaunted, Erick began his search anyway. He scoured
the internet and sought out historians and elderly
farmers countrywide to pick their brains. For years,
he tracked down leads only to find dead ends: the
press had been sold, no one knew what happened to
it, or it had been dismantled and not all of the parts
could be found.
Then, on a snowy day in January, 2015, Erick spotted
what looked like the corner of an antique Boomer
& Boschert in an online photo of a newly-renovated
mill building in the Midwest. He knew instantly that it
wasnt one of the known presses in operation, and the
search was on again. Months of research, phone calls,
and digging through historical land and real estate
records ensued. Finally, Erick was able to track down
the owner of the mill building.
Patty and Erick Taylor discovered that the 118-year old
press operated continuously for more than a century.
It was delivered to its original, Midwest home from
Syracuse, NY by horse-drawn wagon. The mill itself
was water-powered and the cider mill would produce
thousands of gallons of cider for local family farmers, using the farms apples. Eventually, the mill went
out of operation, and the propertys newest owner
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The owner shared that the building was about to be

resold, and that in his opinion, the press was more of
a piece of nostalgia, rather than a working piece of
equipment. Still, he had saved most of the remaining
parts. The giant flywheels and gears essential to the
presss operation were in a storage shed out back. Ericks
hopes soared.
The owner agreed to sell the press, provided Erick
could remove it from its location without doing any
damage to the building. An elegant boardroom had
been built around it by the owner, enclosing the space.
The walls were paneled in cedar, the floors carpeted, a
granite fireplace at one end, and a custom-made cherry
conference table right next to the press. The only way
to extract this giant was piece by piece, over the clean
carpet, and out a narrow 32 doorway.
On a cold, snowy day in late January, 2015, Erick and a
team of friends set out with a truck, a large trailer, and
tools to see if they could bring home the centerpiece
of a business a decade in the making. The press, made
of iron and wood, hadnt been taken apart in more
than 100 years, and serious questions remained about
whether the colossal iron components could even be
moved after sitting that long. Each piece had to be
disassembled before it could be moved out of the
building and through the slender door.
The five-man team spent two days in single-digit
temperatures carefully evaluating, numbering, and
disassembling the press. They laid out tarps, padded the
doorframe, and carefully moved the cherry board room
table out of the way; managed to coax off bolts that
had been tightened for generations; located missing
parts from storage; and painstakingly labeled each
part. They grunted and groaned as they struggled
to lift and separate heavy components and carry them
onto an overloaded truck and trailer for the wintery
journey home.
Patty and a team of relatives and friends pitched in to
help carefully strip off layers of thick green paint that
had been layered on the press over the last 118 years.
They used wire brushes to remove grease, rust, and
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chips of paint from metal parts and machinery,

oiled gears and cast parts, and repainted portions
of the press with apple-red oil paint.
Then, the reassembly began. In the icy-cold barn,
the same team of family and friends sorted out
the carefully-refurbished pieces. One by one, the
pieces were refitted, rejoined, and refastened.
Patty recalls the day when Erick finished reassembling the gears and flywheel: a moment of truth.
As they maddeningly turned the gears by hand,
everyone laughed and whooped with joy and
relief as the immense apparatuses easily turned
and the heavy press beams rose into the air with
Patty and Ericks two teenage nephews standing
on top!
After the victory of the main presss assembly, Erick
turned his attention to countless other challenges:
making custom belts to turn the gears, refurbishing the
apple grater, and, in accordance with current health
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regulations, commissioning a new stainless steel box to

house the press. Realizing the apple elevator (conveyer
belt) that came with the machine was far too short to
make it the distance required in its new location, the
generous and skillful team from DG Marshall Associates
Inc. in Webster, MA manufactured a new one.
When parts broke, belts flew off their gears, or missing
pieces needed recreating, Ernie the machinist now a
close, family friend of Patty and Erick came over for
Sunday breakfast and helped solve the problem. After
cracks were found, gears were carefully boxed and
shipped to an Amish blacksmith in Pennsylvania to be
recast. When the new sheet metal pieces didnt line up
right, Tim from DG Marshall patiently made extra visits
to make sure everything was fit perfectly. Erick had to
find and assemble a collection of used equipment an
apple brusher-washer, a roller inspection table, and a
bulk tank to complete the list of all the pieces necessary
to make cider.
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Just after the dissembled parts were unloaded from

the ice-covered trailer into the Taylors garage in late
January, Patty called the State to find out what was
required to get a license to make cider. The Taylors
invited Ellen, a state inspector, to come and see what
they had intended for the cider press and to share their
vision of making cider in their beautiful timber-framed
barn. Ellens first visit generated a long list of items
that would have to be completed in order to meet
current regulations.
Determined to meet all the inspectors criteria, the
Taylors turned their attention to readying the barn;
at the same time, they continued rebuilding and
refurbishing the press. In the barn, every crack in every
beam and board had to be caulked and filled. Cracks
in the floor and around the windows were filled, and
the entire interior of the barn was sealed. The rear
shed roof area of the barn was closed in by what Patty
affectionately called the geriatric building team: her
74-year old father Pete and a family friend Bill (whose
younger age will remain unpublished).
Ericks best friend from boyhood, Stephen, not only
helped disassemble, move, and reassemble the press,
but he built a service counter and storage cabinet from
wood Erick cut off the land, so the Taylors could make
and serve apple cider donuts. He also constructed
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a clever door within the barns giant rolling doors to

make the space impervious to insects, while maintaining
customers ability to enter the structure and view the
vintage machine at work.
Ellen stopped by periodically to monitor the progress
and guide the Taylors through the arduous process of
ensuring everything would be up to the current health
code standards. Nine months later, in mid-September
2015, this labor of love resulted in a completelyrestored, fully-operational, antique cider press. Ellen
smiled as she conducted her final inspection, granting the
Taylors the licenses to make and serve apple cider and
cider donuts.
This fall, visit and experience Devon Point Farm and
Cider Mill. Gaze upon fields of brilliant orange pumpkins
surrounded by cascading autumn foliage, inhale the
intoxicating smell of cider donuts, sip a glass of ice-cold,
raw cider fresh off the old press. Savor the last the
vestiges of summer with the setting sun on your cheeks.
Each run is individually-blended, depending on the
season and availability of choice cider apples. No batch
is the same; it is a quality in which Erick and Patty Taylor
take tremendous pride.
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R E S T O R E
REV I V E
REJUVENATE
Written and Photographed
by
Amy Benson
In college, I worked for an antique shop in Brooklyn.

One thing you could count on was someone coming in
and asking, Do you know a little old farmer who sells
architectural salvage? The answer would always be, You
must mean Rudy. Rudy is Rudy Rzeznikiewicz, a former
dairy farmer and owner of Brooklyn Restoration Supply.
Brooklyn Restoration Supply specializes in 18th and 19th
century architectural materials, or as Rudy says, old house
parts. Across the street from his home and the farm he
grew up on (and worked full-time until about 15 years
ago), are three buildings housing more than 50 years of
items Rudy has accumulated. Two are former coops one
housing beams and wide plank board, the other mantles
and doors on the first floor, and shutters, paneling, and
moldings on the second floor. Rudy says with a smile
that when he first started out, he thought, Ive got two
buildings. Im set for life. Hes since added a third building
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and would like to add an addition to one coop to better

display all the hardware he has.
Rudy got into the business by accident. He was
running the dairy farm and working as a substitute postal
carrier; his postal route became too much, so he gave
it up, leaving him with some free time that fall. At the
same time, the Town of Brooklyn put a house up for
demolition bid. I said Im going to bid on that because
I could use some wood around the farm, says Rudy. A
good winter project. Guess what? I got the bid. I didnt
know anything about old houses, and to tell the truth, I
didnt care. Well, it turned out there were some good
things in there. One thing led to another. Thats how it
happened. No plans.
He continued to bid on houses, but only when he was
approached. I never went looking. I knew nothing. I
learned a little at a time. Nowadays, Rudy gets most
of his items through sellers. People stop by with pieces
they think he might be of interest. The day I visited, a
retired dealer came in with a truckload of items from
his collection. Rudy gets a lot of items from dealers who
are downsizing, family members of those whove passed
away, and from those who take down old houses.
Once in a while, we may salvage a building, but not
often. Dont have the time. And there are plenty of good
materials to buy now, more than ever. The economy
is not great; people are downsizing. Antique dealers
arent getting rich. Prices are lower than they used to be.
I dont buy something because I have a customer in
mind. If I buy anything, it goes into inventory. After
50 plus years, you should have an idea of what to sell.
You dont learn anything overnight. You can read the
books, but you need the experience to go with them.
Its a combination.
In college, I worked
for an antique
shop in Brooklyn.
One thing you could
count on was
someone coming in
and asking, Do you
know a little old
farmer who
sells architectural
salvage? The
answer would
always be, You must
mean Rudy.
Brooklyn Restoration Supplys customers come from

all over. The majority is from the East Coast, but on
occasion, Rudy has sold to customers in California
and Washington State. He describes his clientele, as
restoration contractors, homeowners, architects,
designers, and once in a while, someone in the trade.
Hes also had some of his items used in photo shoots
and theater productions.
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In the last few years, Rudy has seen an increase in what

he calls craft people: those who repurpose his items
into either something new, or artists who incorporate
his wares into their work. Hes also seen an increase in
purchasing for wedding dcor. Rudy seems amused by
the whole idea of getting married in a barn. Different
from his day, he says.
He does no advertising per se, but Rudy has a good
flow of people visiting him. I ask him how to find out
about Brooklyn Restoration Supply; Its a small world
and people communicate. Thats how it works, Rudy
says. With a smile he adds, The bad communication
comes first; the good comes second.
Those who recommend Brooklyn Restoration Supply
will advise that if Rudy gives a price on something, take
it. There is no haggling. I do things the old-fashioned
way. This is what its going to cost you. Thats it," he says.
Some items sell right away; the more unusual items
can take years. Rudy doesnt mind waiting for the
right person. A while back, he had a dome from a
Russian Orthodox Church in Massachusetts. It sat for
years outside with the mill stones and stone troughs.
One day, a woman came and bought it to use in her
garden. While he was holding it for her, another person
came and wanted to buy it. It always happens that
way, quips Rudy.
Rudy is a strong believer in diversifying. Things can
be alright now, but sour tomorrow. You have to have
something in the reserve. He tells me about how
farmers used to keep cash crops to supplement the farm.
For him, the salvage business serves the same purpose.
His inventory continues to evolve with his customers
taste. Years ago, I didnt want anything to do with
Victorian items too new. But, you have to adjust with
the times, he says.
Rudys youngest son Kevin slated to take over the
business when the time comes certainly has his work
cut out for him. Rudy is confident hes leaving the
Brooklyn Restoration Supply in good hands. Itll be
his business and Im not going to tell him how to run it.
Brooklyn Restoration Supply is located across the street
from 12 Gorman Rd., Brooklyn, and is open every day
from 6:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. (unless Rudy is farming).
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Lisa Nichols Photo

38
By Dan Dzen
Photos by Winter Caplanson & Lisa Nichols
Lisa Nichols Photo

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Im not your
average
20 year-old.
I dont watch sports and I dont play video games.
There is one thing I am passionate about: popcorn.
My family has been farming in South Windsor since
the 1930s. Weve raised dairy cattle and grown
tobacco, potatoes, strawberries, blueberries,
raspberries, and Christmas trees. Over the years,
weve moved farther away from commodity crops
and closer to specialty-branded farm products.
Growing up, I loved being on our farm. I followed
my father and grandfather around on a daily basis
learning life skills such as the value of a reputation
and how to give a firm handshake.
I am the fourth generation of my family to continue
to farm. I could have set my sights to take over
my familys business, Dzen Tree Farm, but instead,
I wanted to have the experience of starting a new
business from the ground up. In many ways, this was
a rite of passage. Starting my own separate enterprise
was a way to prove to the world that I wasnt just
given a farm, but that I could actually start one,
much like my great-grandfather did during the
Great Depression.
After failing to grow a harvestable crop of sweet
corn for three consecutive years in middle and high
school, I was afraid that maybe I hadnt received the
green thumb of the Dzen patriarchs, after all. Sensing
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42
"Growing up, I loved being on our

farm. I followed my father and
grandfather around on a daily
basis learning life skills such
as the value of a reputation
and how to give a firm handshake."
ctfoodandfarm.com
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my interest in growing corn, my dad suggested that I

grow a row or two of popcorn like he had done as a
kid. Before the day was over, I had located my Johnnys
Selected Seeds Catalog and ordered enough seed for
one-half acre far more than what he had recommended.
As autumn arrived and the corn stalks dried to a golden
brown, I realized that I was about to harvest a bumper
crop. I decided on the name Podunk Popcorn out of
respect for the Native American tribe that settled this area
of Connecticut. With a 1920s corn sheller and a few high
school buddies, we processed the cobs and packaged
the kernels into glass mason jars. Within two months of
selling it at the Ellington Winter Farmers Market, I sold out.
Podunk Popcorn was about to become a real business.
At the start, a lot of people thought this business idea was
pretty crazy. Many said that I would never compete with
the big guys like Orville Redenbacher. Others said that
the popcorn was priced too high. Being underestimated
made me want to try even harder. I quickly gained an
underdog mindset, ready to take on the giants.
Today, I grow popcorn across three rented farms in South
and East Windsors. All of the popcorn is processed on
our farm, a business model that sets me apart from most
in the popcorn industry. This system may not be the
most profitable up front, but the increased popping
volume, rich corny taste, and nearly zero percent
un-popped kernels turn occasional popcorn eaters
into loyal Podunk fanatics.
Ive slowly upgraded my equipment to be more
efficient, yet still produce exceptional-quality popcorn.
The original hand-crank corn sheller has been replaced
by an electric sheller and cleaner; the cobs are harvested
with an ear picker instead of a combine to protect the
kernels outer shell. The majority of Podunk Popcorn is
still sold in glass mason jars. Im blessed to have more
than 32 retail stores (increasing monthly) that stock their
shelves with Podunk Popcorn.
I am currently a junior studying agricultural business at
the State University of New York at Cobleskill. My dad
likes to refer to me as a commuter student, although I
go to school two and a half hours away. This comes from
how I aggressively schedule my classes so that I have
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Lisa Nichols Photos
Growing popcorn, however, is not all that I do.
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Lisa Nichols Photo

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Lisa Nichols Photo
" Being underestimated

made me want to try even
harder. I quickly gained an
underdog mindset, ready
to take on the giants."
48
Fridays and sometimes Mondays off. Scheduling this

way allows me to study hard for a few days, then make
it home before sunrise on Friday to run my business
for another few.
Part of the reason I love the college atmosphere is
because I get the chance to mingle among experts. Yes,
I am that guy who asks too many questions and stays
after to talk to the professors. Weve even done case
studies on my business in some of my classes.
Running Podunk Popcorn 150 miles away would be
nearly impossible without my smartphone and laptop.
Through them, I can run almost every aspect of my
business except for the field work.
Despite my appreciation for technology, many know
me as an old soul. For example, I carry a Field Notes
notebook in my back pocket to record business ideas
or to-do lists. Im a major history buff and a sucker
for any story that begins with back in my day. The
majority of my farming equipment, including my 1965
Ford flatbed truck, is at least 30 years old.
Connecticut-grown specialty grains, in my opinion,

are the most underdeveloped agricultural products
in the State. Im beginning to reach out to the brewing
and baking industries in-state. Many are looking for a
local grain supplier, and I believe I am well-positioned
to fill that niche. This year, I grew a trial plot of oats
for Karen Gauvain of Pure Love Granola in Simsbury.
Karen has been giving me guidelines of what shes
looking for, and Im doing my best to grow and mill the
Lisa Nichols Photo
When it comes to marketing and promotions, I follow

the Golden Rule: I dont market to anyone in a way
that I wouldnt appreciate myself. I refuse to send blast
promotional e-mails because I know they are an annoyance for a lot of people. I send handwritten Christmas
cards to all of my retail stores and each online popcorn
order gets a personalized, longhand thank-you note in
every box. My personal cell phone number is printed
on each jar; I make my social media posts educational
and behind-the-scenes in order to provide value for
the customers who take the time to follow me. In this
age of technology, patrons are starving for more human
interaction and intimacy, and less clutter and noise. Its
much easier to sell more to existing customers than it
is to find new ones.
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Lisa Nichols Photos
Lisa Nichols Photo
Lisa Nichols Photo

52
" This year, I grew a trial plot of

oats for Karen Gauvain of Pure
Love Granola in Simsbury. Karen
has been giving me guidelines of
what shes looking for, and Im
doing my best to grow and mill
the crop to her standards."
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crop to her standards. This is a multi-year

venture thats really exciting for us. Im
also experimenting with rye, buckwheat,
and barley.
Despite the excitement I get from all
this, its still hard to balance it all. To
avoid burning out before my 21st
birthday, Ive made some lifestyle
changes that will ensure I can stay
in this business for the long haul.
Sleep, diet, and exercise are all things
that young entrepreneurs struggle to
maintain, but Ive begun to put them
on the top of my list of priorities. Ive
realigned my business goals from rapid
growth to sustainable improvement and
I block out time each day for reading
and reflection. My girlfriend and I hold
mini-meetings on Sunday nights to plan
our week to ensure that we get time
together, too.
Lisa Nichols Photo
Nonetheless, I love entrepreneurism

and I would encourage anyone who
is interested in it to give it a shot. My
advice for entrepreneurs and farmers
is to pace yourself, make time to read,
and ask questions whenever you can.
Actively seek out the industry leaders
and become friends with them. Guard
your image with your life. Social media
will decide your image for better or
worse, so stay focused on perfecting
your product. Be cautious of shiny new
opportunities that distract you from
your core competencies. Dont give
a sales pitch; tell your story. Everyone
loves an underdog.
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Lisa Nichols Photo
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Making
Apple Jelly
at
Averill Farm
Written and photographed by Winter Caplanson
The first thing youll notice about a sparkling
jar of Averill Farm Apple Jelly is that it, in contrast
to its drab, tan supermarket cousin, is the color
of pink grapefruit. The juice from reddest of their
farm-grown apples bestows this charming
blush-tone. Right now thats Redfree, Paula Red,
and Early Mac.
Averill Farm preserves are made by hand, in
small batches, the old-fashioned way. It is, in
fact, a very old place. Eleven generations of
Averills have called this Washington Depot farm
home since the land was purchased in 1746 from
Chief Waramaug. There is a family cemetery,
a complex of weathered barns, and a stone
farmhouse where the oldest apple trees mark
a time when every farm kept a small orchard.
For many years it was a dairy farm.Today, the
260-acre property is primarily a fruit orchard,
producing more than 100 varieties of apples,
pears, and quince sold both aspicked fruit and
pick-your-own. Early apples come around the
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beginning of August and are sold at farmers

markets. The PYO season begins mid-August
when the orchard stand opens.
In the stand, Averill Farm sells their own
unpasteurized cider, apple cider donuts,
cookies, tea breads, hard cider, cider syrup,
cider vinegar, cut flowers,honey from their
hives, and their famous preserves. They
also sell pies made with their fruit, and local
pumpkins, gourds, Indian corn, mums, maple
syrup, honey, cheddar cheese, garlic, potatoes,
some tomatoes, and soap.
The making of preserves happens throughout
the season using their own raspberries and fruits
from nearby farms. Averill Farms famous Apple
Butter and Apple Jelly are last up, and fall visitors
to the farm cant get enough.
The first thing you'll notice about a

sparkling jar of Averill Farm Apple Jelly is that
it, in contrast to its drab, tan supermarket
cousin, is the color of pink grapefruit.
Effects of Connecticuts drought mean that
apples are sizing up smaller, but their flavor
is more intense. This years apple jelly is
exceptional. To make apple jelly that is clear
and bright, the farm-pressed juice is strained
repeatedly. Averill Farms recipe calls for twice
as much fruit as sugar, imparting more fruit flavor
and less overwhelming sugary sweetness than
most commercial preserves.
Pomonas Universal Pectin is the key ingredient
in their low-sugar method. This 100% pure citrus
pectin is extracted from the dried peel of lemon,
lime, and orange. To thicken, its activated by

calcium, naturally present or added, instead
of sugar, as most pectin brands are. Pomonas
Pectin is able to jell fresh, frozen, or canned fruit
or juice with low amounts of any sweetener,
including granulated white sugar, honey, agave,
concentrated fruit sweetener, maple syrup,
frozen juice concentrate, stevia, or even artificial
sweeteners. It can also be used to thicken fruit
syrup or homemade yogurt, and to make jelled
fruit candy.
The PYO season at Averill Farm is underway now,
and the farm stand, well-stocked with Apple
Jelly, is open seven days a week, 9:30 a.m. to
5:30 p.m., or until dusk (after the time change)
through Thanksgiving.
Want to try your hand at making apple jelly?
Averill Farm recommends the recipes found
on the Pomona's Universal Pectin website. A
recipe sheetthat comes with your purchase
of Pomonas Pectin includes basic recipes and
directions for making preserves including
strawberry, raspberry, blueberry, peach,
orange marmalade, crabapple, Concord grape,
hot pepper jelly, and more.
After mastering the basics, you may want to
step up your game. TheGet Creativepage of
the Pomona Pectin site gives you guidelines for
customizing a recipe. Alcohol can be added to
a jam recipe at c. alcohol per 4 c. mashed
fruit or juice, for example, if you reduce the
amount of mashed fruit or juice by c. Its also
okay to add 1 tsp. of dried spice to a recipe.
Their cookbook, Preserving with Pomonas Pectin,
is available on Amazon.
Although there are recipes for refrigerator
preserves, canning your jars of preserves in a
water bath canner will make them shelf-stable.
The good news is that this is not a difficult
process to learn and the entire waterbath
canning setup will cost you only about $40.
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Here's a recipe to get you started with your own autumn apple jelly making tradition:
Apple-Rosemary Jelly
Yield:4 to 5 c.
Before You Begin :
Prepare calcium water: combine tsp. calcium powder (in the small packet in your box of
Pomona's Pectin) with c. water in a small, clear jar witha lid. Shake well. Extra calcium
water should be stored in the refrigerator for future use.
Ingredients :
4 c. apple cider or apple juice
4 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
4 tsp. dried rosemary
c. honey, room temperature,
4 c. strained cider/juice
2 tsp. calcium water
or1 c. sugar
4 tsp. Pomonas Pectin powder
Directions :
1. Bring the apple cider/juice and rosemary to a boil then turn off heat
and steep for 30 minutes.
2. Strain out the rosemary.
3. Wash jars, lids, and bands. Place jars in canner, fill canner 2/3 full with water
and bring to a boil. Turn off heat, cover, and keep jars in hot canner water
until ready to use. Place lids in water in a small sauce pan; cover and heat to
a low boil. Turn off heat and keep lids in hot water until ready to use.
4. Measure strained cider/juice into sauce pan.
5. Add calcium water and apple cider vinegar and stir well.
6. Measure sugar or room temperature honey into a bowl. Thoroughly mix pectin
powder into sweetener. Set aside.
7. Bring fruit mixture to a full boil. Add pectin-sweetener mixture, stirring
vigorously for one to two minutes to dissolve the pectin while the jelly comes
back up to a boil. Once the jelly returns to a full boil, remove it from the heat.
8. Fill hot jars to of top. Wipe rims clean. Screw on two-piece lids. Place filled
jars in boiling water up to their covers. Boil 10 minutes (add one minute more
for every 1,000 above sea level). Remove from water. Let jars cool. Check
seals; lids should be sucked down.
9. Eat within one year. Once opened, the jelly should be consumed within
three weeks.

66
Recipe reprintedwith permission fromPomona's Universal Pectin,Workstead Industries, LLC.
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If you think jelly is just

for toast, you're missing out!
CT Food and Farm Magazine

sat down with Bears
Smokehouse BBQ Bar Manager
Justin Morales to learn more
about how jelly can be
showcased during happy
hour, too. Enjoy these
creative twists on some of
our favorite fall bevies.
Fig Apple
Fall Old Fashioned 1 fig, sliced in half
1 Tbsp. apple jam/jelly
(We used Averill Farm Apple Jelly)
an orange, sliced
1 Maraschino cherry
1 oz. honey water
(equal parts water and honey)
Ice
2 oz. of your favorite whiskey
( Justin recommends rye)
oz. Hartford Flavor Company
Wild Moon Birch Liqueur
Combine fig, apple jam/jelly,

orange, cherry, and honey
water in a mixing glass and
muddle. Add ice, whiskey,
birch liqueur and stir.
Pour into a rocks glass through
a strainer and garnish with
an orange twist.
Blueberry Lavender
Pisco Sour
1oz. egg white
2 oz. pisco
1 oz. simple syrup (equal parts
sugar and water) or 1 tsp.
granulated sugar
1 oz. lime juice
oz. Hartford Flavor Company
Wild Moon Lavender Liqueur
1 Tbsp. wild blueberry
jelly/jam (We used Woodstock
Hill Preserves Classic Blueberry
made with wild blueberries.)
4 dashes Angostura bitters
Combine egg white, pisco, simple syrup,

lime juice, lavender liqueur, and blueberry
jelly/jam in a mixing glass. Dry shake until blue
and frothy. Add ice and stir. Pour into coupe
glass through a fine strainer and add bitters.
Garnish with fresh blueberries.
74
Strawberry Citrus Rickey

1 Tbsp. strawberry jam/jelly (We used
Woodstock Hill Strawberry Preserve made
with whole berries.)
1 oz. gin
oz. yuzu sake or lemonade
Ice
Club soda
Combine jelly/jam, gin, and sake/lemonade in a Collins glass and stir

for 40-60 seconds. Fill the glass with ice, then club soda, and shake.
Garnish with fresh basil and a slice of fresh rhubarb.
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Lavender
Dark n Stormy
4 lime wedges
Ginger beer
2 oz. rum
1 Tbsp. of lavender jam/jelly (We used
Woodstock Hill Pure Lavender Preserv
infused with handmade sachets of
French lavender.)
Muddle lime wedges in

a Collins glass. Add ice
and fill with ginger beer
until the glass is full. In a
separate shaker, combine
rum and lavender jam/
jelly and shake well. Pour
into ginger beer through
a strainer and garnish
with candied ginger or
a lime wheel.
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. by Amy Smith
. Margit Fish Photos

he four Hs of the 4-H pledge each stand for parts that, when working together,
foster the will and ability to effectively contribute to the world. 4-H began in 1902 as an
agricultural program designed to teach youth to accept new technologies and to become
leaders in agriculture. Since then, the organization has grown to an international program in
partnership with state extension programs and land grant universities, and has clubs in rural,
suburban, and urban areas of every state.
While 4-H may have started out as an agricultural movement, it now includes areas in
nearly every topic imaginable. The Connecticut 4-H program facilitates more than 130
projects with only 24 focused on animals. Science, Technology, Engineering, and Math
(STEM) projects are growing in popularity; 4-H recognizes the need for STEM in today's
competitive agricultural industry and is preparing its members in those fields of study.
The 4-H program model runs differently than other youth organizations, mainly because it places its
members in charge of their own club and initiatives. Adults in the program serve only as guides.
Projects are chosen based on personal preference with assistance from club leaders and parents.
Participants create an annual goal for their project, and then determine steps to achieve it.
Club leaders andparents assist by providing "learn by doing" experiences: mentoring, field
trips, activities, and both competitive and non-competitive events. At the close of the year,
members evaluate their project, determine if its goals have been met, and consider how
the project can be changed or improved for the following year.
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In addition to individual ventures, those in 4-H are

encouraged to create, develop, and participate in
projects that benefit their community. Examples of
recent projects by Connecticut clubs include creating a
garden around the flag pole on a town green, organizing
a pajama collection drive to benefit a womens shelter,
making repairs and conducting spring clean-ups at local
summer camps, sewing curtains for a community center, and
visiting skilled nursing facilities to share a craft.
4-H is a family-oriented organization. Unlike others that divide
clubs by age, 4-H clubs are multi-aged; its members range
from seven to 19 years old. Older 4-H teens are urged
to take on positions of leadership while experienced 4-H
members assist newer members by one-on-one teaching,
assisting with educational programs, and giving demonstrations
during club meetings. Those older than 19 are encouraged
to register as volunteers or leaders and and mentor within
a 4-H club.
Another exciting part of 4-H is public speaking, which is
often overlooked in our current public education curriculum.
Connecticut 4-H youth gain skills in public speaking at club
meetings where members share the progress they have made
with their projects, express their opinions, and make suggestions
for activities. Clubs follow Parliamentary procedure which
equips members to participate in local, state, and national
government actions. On the county level at fair board
meetings youth partake in developing and managing
local 4-H fairs. There are also county- and state-wide public
speaking competitions, and State 4-H Citizenship Days
give youth the chance to share ideas with local legislators
and politicians.
Acknowledgement for achievements in 4-H come on every
level; in clubs, youth are recognized for their achievements
by their peers and leaders. At county 4-H fairs and both
competitive and non-competitive events, participants are
evaluated by independent judges or experts. Members can
apply for state recognition at events that involve youth from
all counties within the state. 4-H members are also celebrated
for their accomplishments and leadership, and are awarded
opportunities to participate in national 4-H trips.
4-H comprises a community of people who work hard to build
children and teens into leaders who create an effective impact.
By giving children and teens opportunities to manage their own
goals, interact with people across all age groups and skill levels,
and learn from their experiences, 4-H prepares true leaders.
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While 4-H may

have started
out as an
agricultural
movement, it
now includes
areas in nearly
every topic
imaginable.
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The 4-H year runs from October 1 through September 30,

but individuals must be enrolled by May 1 to be eligible
to participate in the county 4-H fairs. To find a club near
you, contact your countys extension office.
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Timing
Is
EVERYTHING:
Adventures in Foraging
with
Chef Jesse Powers
by Gena Golas
Jennifer Marcuson photos
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knives, clean hands, and an

organized kitchen all of
these things tell us that a chef
is educated and prepared.
But if those attributes were all
it took, wed all have James
Beard Awards. A chefs talent and longevity is derived from
his or her intuition. When something doesnt go according to
plan, a successful chef must be able to seamlessly pivot from
one idea to the next without the diner being aware of there
ever having been a hiccup. Without the faculty to think on your
feet, youre dead in the water.
Last month, CT Food and Farm Magazines Gena Golas and
Jennifer Marcuson linked up with Chef Jesse Powers on a mission
to forage local mushrooms and use them in a dish back at
Millwrights. What happened next demonstrates perfectly the
kind of dexterity a career chef (and forager) should possess.
Sometimes, you get skunked. What you do in that moment
speaks louder than what you would have done.
Without his chef whites on, hiking through the woods in a tee
shirt, shorts, and boat shoes, Jesse Powers looks more like an
average guy on a walk than the chef de cuisine of the James
Beard Award-nominated Millwrights Restaurant and Tavern
in Simsbury until he starts talking about his food; then,
there is no doubting hes a knowledgeable and passionate
epicurean and forager.
I got into foraging because I started to think about, What
do we serve? Why do we serve it? Where can I find it
around here?"
It is day two of our attempt at foraging, and Powers is leading
the way slowly up the trail at Talcott Mountain in Simsbury,
a State park just up the road from Millwrights. We set out
for mushrooms, berries, or whatever else we might find on,
or just off, the established path. When restaurants boast
locally-sourced ingredients, as does Millwrights, few are
willing to go just this local. Fewer still are the chefs who are
expert enough to forage for themselves.
However, this approach fits into Powers own culinary
philosophy, which in turn, is why he has thrived preparing
Millwrights local-minded inspired New England cuisine. In addition to the restaurants close relationship
with numerous resident farms and purveyors, foraging is
another way for Powers to gain a deeper understanding of
his ingredients origins.
SHARP
90
Powers began searching years ago, while hiking with his now
six-year-old daughter Lucy. She, in a carrier on his back, both
of them exploring their favorite local hiking trails. For Powers,
foraging is not about unearthing every usable plant from the
depths of the woods and figuring out how to use it in a dish,
but rather, setting out on the trail with a clear idea of what
he wants to bring back to the kitchen.
Do we use wild ingredients because theyre great, or because
theyre wild?
For Powers, wild is great, but not at the expense of great
taste. Quality is paramount, down to every last factor. He
chooses to focus his foraging knowledge on the components
with which he enjoys working, learning to identify them
without question, so he is able to use what he finds both in
the restaurant and at home.
I got into foraging

because I started to
think about, What
do we serve? Why
do we serve it?
Where can I find it
around here?
Ironically, this is not how we set out on our first day. Powers triedand-true foraging locales are nearer to where he lives; but, in
an effort to stay closer to the restaurant, we instead adventure
out to the unknown, untested trails of Stratton Brook State Park
in Simsbury.
Just as magicians never share their secrets, I dont get the
sense that Powers would be forthcoming with his favorite
sites. As we walk, he tells the story of how, after much peer
pressure, he took his friends to his secret chanterelle patch.
He smiles slyly as he remembers how he led them through the
woods, far off any trail, on a convoluted route that no one in
the group could ever replicate. Eventually, they came upon
the patch; unbeknownst to Powers friends, it was on the
other side of the trees from where they had parked their cars.
With dark clouds already rolling in and the threat of rain
imminent, we know our time on the trails is limited. We quickly
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choose a marked path and start out. It doesnt take long

to realize that we might not find what we hoped to in this
location we are surrounded by pines, and mushrooms grow
better near oak trees. We continue on, however, because
we are on a cleared path, which means potential damage
to the surrounding area ideal conditions for mushrooms
(that thrive in the weak and injured spots of other plants).
Eventually, the trail loops back around to our starting point
and we opt to leave the pines for another location that might
prove to be better. On the way back to the car, Powers points
out our first foraging find wild sorrel, a plant resembling
clover, growing at the edge of the parking lot. Edible, but
With plants and

fungi falling
into such large
genera, getting
it right especially when
serving the public is crucial.
not ideal, given the fact that it is growing out of the shallow
gravel that borders the pavement. Staying true to his foraging
philosophy, Powers passes on gathering the sorrel for use in
his dish back at the restaurant.
While strategizing our next location from inside the car, the
skies open up with the storm we knew was coming. Back at
Millwrights, we watch the lightening flicker over the river from
the rear windows of the restaurant. Our foraging adventure
will have to wait until the next morning.
The next day, we regroup at Millwrights. After gathering what
we need from the restaurant, we head for Talcott Mountain
State Park, where we hope for better luck.
It smells like a wet forest, said Powers. Thats a good sign.
Mushrooms like wet conditions, Powers explains which really
is a good sign, given the intense storm we got the day before.
Hopeful, we start up the steep incline that begins the trek
towards Heublein Tower at the summit of the mountain. As
we climb, potential finds start catching Powers eye, drawing
him off the path, and he picks what he finds so we can examine
them Boletus mushrooms, possible autumn olives, oyster
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mushrooms. We uncover unidentifiable berries; examine

what looks like mint; and marvel over a yellow mushroom
which, when cut in half, bruises blue right before our eyes.
Our basket remains empty; each of these finds deemed
inedible or questionable for one reason or another.
Powers is the first person to admit he is not a mycologist, but it
is clear he is an informed and careful forager. With plants and
fungi falling into such large genera, getting it right especially
when serving the public is crucial. The similarities between
an edible specimen and an inedible one can be subtle, so
knowing exactly what qualities to look for is imperative.
Powers educates us on the various traits of the
Foraging is not a
try-this-at-home
activity, unless you
have been taught
by a professional
and have allowed
yourself a lot of
careful practice.
mushrooms we found real gills versus false gills; how the

color white is usually a quality to stay away from; how, for
certain varieties, single-growing mushrooms are safer than
similar-looking specimens growing in clusters.
Powers has spent a tremendous amount of time educating
himself through books, videos, and hiking with other chefs, in
order to learn how to safely forage; yes, he reminds me that
foraging is not a try-this-at-home activity, unless you have
been taught by a professional and have allowed yourself a
lot of careful practice. Even Lucy knows this lesson well; these
days, she hikes beside him, no longer in a carrier on his back.
She knows to ask Dad first before touching anything: advice
we all should follow before attempting to forage.
I imagine that, when we find what we were looking for, it
will be a scene straight out of a movie. Well round a bend
in the trail and there will be The Spot, just off the path a
lone, fallen tree in a grassy clearing, illuminated by a shaft of
sunlight breaking through the cover of the trees, the fungi
growing from the damaged bark glittering in the sunlight.
When we do finally find edible oyster mushrooms toward
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the end of our hike, it gives me a better feeling than the

theatrical one I had envisioned: sweet satisfaction. At last,
something we can bring back to the kitchen! And yet, upon
closer inspection, we discover they are soaking wet from
the rain, and speckled with bugs. Again, unusable. With our
hiking time nearing an end, we turn around to head back
down the trail, checking to see if we missed anything the
first time around.
Timing is everything, Powers said wisely. Perhaps if we had
found the oyster mushrooms a day earlier before the rain,
they would have made it to the kitchen.
We leave the forest with empty baskets. Do we reschedule
for another time? No way we improvise just as chefs do
day in and day out. Back at the Millwrights kitchen, Powers
gathers ingredients for his dish out of the walk-in, including
chanterelles sourced from his usual, local purveyor. Powers
moves agilely around the kitchen, giving equal attention to
this dish as to the chefs who begin to arrive to prep for dinner
service. Bantering lightheartedly with his staff, he shucks and
juices late summer corn, roasts pungent leeks and tender
chicken, and cooks a ragout of the chanterelles, corn kernels,
chopped leeks, diced shallots and herbaceous lovage cream.
In a matter of minutes, the dish comes together, complete
with a drizzle of chicken jus and the most enchanting, crispy
chicken skin.
As Powers dish is being photographed for this story, I am
blindsided with the Holy Grail moment I expected in the
woods. The dish, poised on a dining room table, is floodlit
by a beam shining off the river just outside the window. The
chanterelles are the star of the dish; they arent straight out
of Talcott Mountain State Park as we had hoped, but out of
a kitchen whose chef de cuisine is well-versed in flavors and
in foraging.
Just as it is in the forest, timing is everything in a professional
kitchen its putting product to plate la minute, and using
seasonal ingredients in a likewise menu. For Jesse Powers,
cooking is the thrill of the hunt, whether that hunt takes place
in the woods or in the walk-in. Its working with what you find,
or what you are given. We may not have found what we were
looking for on our foraging adventure in the woods, but we
found it on an artful plate from Powers kitchen.
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102
Kinship&
Coriander
by Kelley Citroni
Bet you didnt know there was a lunch rush in
Eastford. Better yet, if I put a map in front of you,
could you even find it? Not to worry. By the time
you finish digesting this issue of CT Food and
Farm Magazine, youll know precisely where it
is, and what youve been missing for six years.
When tasked with checking out Coriander Caf
and Country Store, theres no question as to who
will join me. My older brother Tim is a shoein for any outing that involves a ride through
Eastern Connecticut, people-watching, and a
hearty, homemade meal. A chef-turned-machinist, Timmie is my culinary true north; at 190
lbs., he can eat more than anyone I know. After
checking out Coriander Cafs menu, its clear
this place has his name all over it. When I tell
him that theres a Porterhouse Pork Chop on
the menu (a Porkerhouse, if you will), he even
offers to drive.
Heading east from Hartford, we get off the
Interstate in Tolland and head down Route
74 from there. We find Coriander Caf in a
charming, red, wooden house with white trim
and a small porch nestled in the sweet spot
just past Natchaug State Forest, before you hit
Pomfret Center. The road to Eastford is windy
and circuitous, much like the route Chef and
Owner Brett Lafferts own life took to get there.
Small-town New England is in Chef Bretts blood.
He describes his hometown of Granville, MA
( just north of Granby at the foothills of the
Winter Caplanson Photos

Berkshire Mountains) as even more country
than Eastford. He attended New England
Culinary Institute in Montpelier, VT and
applied his degree on both coasts from Denver,
CO and Big Sur, CA to Nantucket and Boston.
Previously operated under the name Red and
White, the business has always comprised
a restaurant and country store in varying
proportions. When Chef Brett opened
Coriander Caf and Country Store in 2011 his
brothers Scott and Jason by his side he initially
pursued a country-store-only model. Realizing
it wasnt their niche, the Lafferts designed a
space that offers a cozy dining room, a take-out
counter, and outdoor patio seating in the shade,
serving breakfast and lunch seven days a week,
and dinner Wednesday through Saturday.
We arrive with breakfast food in mind; however,
one look at the lunch menu, and we decide to
divide and conquer. Our server asks if were
in the mood for breakfast or lunch. All we say
is, yes.
The breakfast menu hits all the classics including
egg sandwiches and steel-cut oatmeal, buildyour-own omelets, sticky, decadent cinnamon
buns, and dense, buttery coffee cake. I opt
for Apple Cheddar Pancakes and a side of
crispy bacon (because you can never have too
many things to dip in maple syrup), served
alongside the In-House Bottomless Mug of Red
Barn Coffee. Tim goes for the Meatloaf Sandwich
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My parents have been my rock, and Ive

certainly leaned on them, he says. His
staff is like family, and his drive is powered
by Corianders regular customers.There
are reasons that it feels like home.
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and we decide to split some Coriander Crab Cakes.

The family members seated next to us are clearly
regulars and are keeping an eye and an ear on our
deliberation; we get smiles of approval after ordering.
Now that the hard part is done, I pan across the restaurant and take in its warmth not just in the hardwood
floors and rustic farm tables, but in the pops of color
that shine through Chef Bretts handmade stained
glass panels. My personal interests lean towards the
arts, he says. I also like to hike and fish to unwind,
but there isnt much time for it. With a business open
every day, Id say thats an understatement.
Im wearing flannel for the first time this autumn;
Eastford matches that sentiment with its cool sleepiness. But, theres nothing lethargic about The Caf,
its diners, or its menu. In fact, Im struck by its youth. I
see people in their 20s, 30s, and 40s: young men and
women with old souls. Families are diving into stacks of
thick-cut French toast and freshly-baked muffins and
scones; a group of friends comes in for sandwiches
to-go on their way to Natchaug for a hike; I overhear
Italian Combo, Turkey Club, and Jacqueline. I
learn later that the Jacqueline is a roasted chicken
wrap with crispy bacon, tangy BBQ sauce, cheddar
cheese, lettuce and tomato. I can see why Coriander
was recently awarded Best Sandwiches and Grinders
in Norwich Magazine.
My pancakes are superb light-as-a-feather, and full of
fresh chunks of apple, some caramelized from hitting
the griddle. The apples are likely from Buells Orchard
in Eastford or Lapsley Orchard in Pomfret Center, two
farms from which Chef Brett prefers to purchase his
produce. Buells specializes in orchard fruit, selling prepicked and pick-your-own strawberries, blueberries,
and peaches in the summer, apples, and pears in the
autumn. Lapsley Orchard adds to the selection tender
asparagus, corn, seasonal flowers, and pumpkins. In
addition to my pancakes, I see those local apples
and Vermont cheddar have made their way into the
pastry selection. (My Pop used to say that an apple
pie without cheese is like a kiss without a squeeze.
He would have loved it here.)
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Timmie stops talking a universal indication that

his sandwich is on-point. Its a generous, thick-cut
piece of moist and perfectly-seasoned meatloaf
topped with sweet, caramelized onions, melted
cheddar, and spicy ketchup on a ciabatta roll. The
loaf itself isnt too solid, and is light on the fillers,
leaving it juicy enough to season the bun. The
crab cakes follow suit; theyre packed with lump
crab meat, diced veggies, and herbs none of
this breadcrumb-laden nonsense served on a
crunchy Caesar Salad and topped with shaved
Asiago cheese. Chef shares that his regulars will
simply not allow him to take this Marlyand-style
dish off the menu.
Since our choices are on the traditional side, I
look forward to coming back so that I can try
some of the lunch and dinner specials like Grilled
Flank Steak with wild mushroom barley pilaf and
sauted green beans and the Porterhouse Bone-in
Pork Chop, cut thick and served with ham spoon
bread, caramelized Brussels sprouts, and topped
in apple butter.
The Coriander Caf and Country Store refreshes
their specials menu weekly; Chef Brett stresses the
importance of the systemic relationship between
whats seasonally available and his menu offerings
not just because its an industry best practice
but because it keeps him from getting bored. I
find this especially evident in The Cafs gorgeous
and creative list of vegetarian options. Recent
specials have included Pomegranate and Avocado
Salad crisp, baby spinach tossed with ruby red
grapefruit, avocado, and toasted hazelnuts in a
citrus vinaigrette; Fried Chickpea, Tomato, and Dill
Salad; and Eggplant Steak marinated in vine-ripe
tomato chutney and served with grilled asparagus.
Corianders doesnt just boast items from local
farms the Country Store features a smattering
of CT artisans, selling handmade jewelry, candles,
soap, oil, vinegar, maple syrup, preserves, and
honey. I see the makings of a killer holiday gift
basket. The selection is eclectic and funky without
being cluttered.
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On our food-comatose drive back to

Hartford, I peruse The Cafs Facebook page,
and I smile in appreciation of the fact that
every review, comment, and photo posted
by a patron is responded to by Chef Brett or
a member of his team. Our customers are
incredible, he shares. Theyve helped me
validate my dream, and it fuels me everyday.
Knowing the brutal hours they pull, I have
tremendous respect for the Coriander team
members making the time to express thanks
on an individual basis. It shows a personal
touch that is all-too-often lost once a business experiences quick success. Its obvious
that customers are treated like family, that
The Cafs dining room acts an extension of
their own.
It becomes clear to me that Im not the only
one who feels sentimental at Coriander. I
brought my brother and was reminded of my
grandfather. Chef Brett opened the restaurant
with the unwavering support of his parents
and his brothers. My parents have been my
rock, and Ive certainly leaned on them, he
says. His staff is like family, and his drive is
powered by Corianders regular customers.
There are reasons that it feels like home.
Coriander Caf and Country Store is located
at 192 Eastford Rd. in Eastford. Their hours
are Sunday and Monday, 8:00 a.m. 4:00
p.m., Tuesday, 7:00 a.m. 7:00 p.m., and
Wednesday through Saturday, 7:00 a.m.
8:00 p.m. Breakfast and lunch are served
daily, and dinner is served on Wednesday
through Saturday, another reason Coriander
stands out. Those who work on evenings and
weekends can actually enjoy a relaxing breakfast when their "weekend" starts on Monday.
Read on for an additional list of our favorite
Monday breakfast joints.
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By Rebecca Hansen
Photos by Winter Caplanson at Rise
Its the stuff of magic fairy dreams. Big,

pillowy pancakes dressed with shiny, sticky
syrup and dotted with plump blueberries.
Eggs Benedict so creamy that they melt upon
contact with your tongue. Deep, dark pours
of coffee that seem to go on endlessly... you
know, brunch. While many enjoy this meal on
a leisurely Saturday or Sunday with mimosas
in hand, workers in the hospitality, creative,
and self-employed industries dont always
have the luxury of stopping in on a

weekend. For us, the weekend doesnt
begin until Monday, which has the unfortunate tradition of also being the day that
most restaurants close, leaving our bellies
brunch-less. However, dotted throughout
Connecticut is a selection of high-quality
restaurants that understand our plight; they
stay open on Mondays for the non-traditional crowd in search of a Belgian waffle
(and bloody Mary or three).
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Mamies Restaurant
162 Baker Rd., Roxbury

Monday Hours: 9:00 a.m. 3:00 p.m.
Set inside a rustic cabin nestled in

Litchfield County, Mamies has the
sort of charm that lets you imagine
sitting in your grandmothers kitchen. With generous helpings and a
no-frills menu (if you call incredibly
high-quality ingredients no-frills),
expect a hearty breakfast that starts
your weekend right. The Maple
Cranberry Granola offers a twist on
a healthy standard while the basic
pancakes cant be beat.
Sift Bake Shop
5 Water St., Mystic

Monday Hours: 7:00 a.m. Sell Out
The quality at SIFT is etched into

every corner of its space. From
the open exhibition kitchen to the
airy and clean design of the dining
room, you feel as though youve
instantly walked onto a movie set
(a very delicious movie set). The
chef adheres to a philosophy of
only using fresh, top-of-the-line
ingredients and produces a rotating
menu daily. Here, its all about the
baked goods, so we recommend
grabbing a few of their muffins,
some coffee, the paper, and enjoy
an hour sitting in a sunny spot.
Hidden Valley Eatery

88 Bee Brook Rd., Washington
While the Stars Hollow references

abound this hamlet, Hidden Valley
eatery truly does bring Lukes
Diner to mind. Homey, local, and
incredibly fresh, they up the decor
ante with a fabric-draped ceiling
that makes you feel as though
youve entered a secret bungalow,
adding an element of mystery to
your Monday.
SoNo Baking Company

101 Water St., Norwalk
Tucked behind South Norwalks

main drag, this popular spot
gets beyond busy on weekends.
Fortunately, come Monday,
the families and ladies who
brunch have returned to their
regularly-scheduled programming
and you can settle down to a table
with a hunk of crusty bread and a
cup of coffee. Bonus: sidle up to the
bar along the windows that look
into the kitchen and watch as the
pastry chefs prepare and bake the
days fresh offerings.
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The Corner Restaurant
105 River St., Milford

Behind such a simple name is a

restaurant with a menu rife with
complex and creative breakfast
dishes. From a Spiced Indian
Duck Tortilla, to African Hash, to
Pecan-Crusted French Toast, this
is a great place to get something a
little unusual to start your Monday.
The Breakfast Nook
448 Washington Ave., North Haven

Not everyone needs (or wants)

a brunch-ified menu. The Breakfast
Nook keeps it simple and
straightforward with a list of
breakfast basics complemented
by a smattering of creative specials.
Toast, Four Corners
625 Middle Tpke., Storrs

Monday Hours: 6:00 a.m. 2:-00 p.m.
Near UCONN Storrs, the weekends

may see this breakfast spot overrun
with college students in search of a
hearty (and inexpensive) breakfast.
Come Monday, however, the scene
is decidedly more sedate. And, you
wont have to fight a co-ed for the
last fresh-baked muffin.
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Cosmic Omelete
485 Hartford Rd., Manchester

Theres something a little trippy

about this restaurants vibe, which
has turned it into a cult-favorite.
While plenty of traditional breakfast standards are available, the
highlight as the name suggests
is the omelet menu. Specials
rotate weekly (sometimes daily),
so youre always sure youre getting
the freshest of the fresh.
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Rise
10 Water St., Mystic

With two spots on our list, it

appears Mystic is becoming a
Monday-brunch Mecca. RISE serves
breakfast anytime, especially good
for those of us who worked a late
shift and need a bit more time to
get out of bed. Beyond the staples,
the chef offers surprises studded
throughout the menu, like the PB&B
(egg, peanut butter, and bacon on
an English muffin).
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by Laura Graham
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Photos by Jake Snyder of Red Skies Photography
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ry stone construction quietly holds our State's history.

Crisscrossing Connecticut lies a cultural patrimony of
landforms built in stone. Like the great cathedrals of
Europe, the majority of this stone work was built in
total anonymity. While the stone walls of Connecticut may not
soar to the same heights and refinement as cathedrals, anyone who
has ever embarked on building even the simplest wall understands
the magnitude of the labor involved, and appreciates the beauty
that labor creates.
Maybe you have just bought a small farm or an historic home
in Connecticut, or maybe you were even lucky enough to have
inherited one. Chances are, there will be stone walls or some kind
of historic stone construction on the property. Speaking with
professional dry stone waller Karl Gifford from East Baldwin,
Maine, he teaches me some of the history of the craft.
The earliest stone walls in the United States were built by
European colonists in the 1600s. With the immediate need for
food and shelter, they quickly set to chopping down trees for
wood and clearing small plots. Once the trees were removed, it
only took a couple of frost-and-thaw cycles for great numbers
of rocks to rise to the surface. The rocky soil similar to settlers
native England and Northern Europe was cleared of stones to
maintain areas of tillable soil. These original fields were small due
to the intensive work needed to create them. The resulting walls
are known as "thrown walls," "farmer's walls," or "rubble walls."
There was no need to create any height, and the main goal was
to clear the fields quickly. These walls were generally informal in
construction.
As colonial settlements increased in size, more livestock was
introduced. At first, animals were kept in commons, or communal
lands. Later, as land became more privatized and sheep farms were
introduced, the construction of stone walls exploded in popularity.
Construction became more advanced; the walls became bigger and
were used to contain livestock away from the fields where the crops
were grown. A new technique was introduced; the double-faced
wall with "hearting," a Scottish term which describes filling the
middle of the wall with smaller stones. Some wood fencing was
used, but stone walls lasted longer and were more reliable. This
intense proliferation of stone walls continued throughout the
1800s until Joseph Glidden invented and patented barbed wire
in 1874 (an invention that incidentally made him one of the
richest men in America).
If your property has more structured walls, those probably
appeared later with the arrival of estates and the factories
of the Industrial Revolution. Dry stone or mortar-free
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construction continued in mill foundations, dams,

and culverts. Today, some of these historic dry
stone constructions may have had mortar added
for repair.
A tremendous amount of research has been
conducted on stone walls and their history. For
a thorough analysis of their historical and social
implications, Karl recommends Susan Allport's
Sermons in Stone. University of Connecticut
Geology Professor Robert Thorson and author
of Stone by Stone: The Magnificent History
of New Englands Stone Walls is an ardent
defender against the dismantlement and removal
of Connecticut's historic stone walls. His Stone
Wall Initiative has
been instrumental
in raising awareness
of the importance
of historic stone
walls to regional
cultural identity.
This awareness
has led to new
State laws and town
ordinances for stone
walls protection.
Today, the art
of the dry stone
waller craftsman
continues, and it
is predominantly
used in the realm
of private homes,
parks, and public
buildings. It can be
seen in retaining
walls, raised beds,
steps, and patios.
Dry stone
construction
quietly holds
our State's
history.
Crisscrossing
Connecticut
lies a cultural
patrimony
of landforms
built in stone.
Traditionalists prefer to use locally-sourced stone.

New England field stone is preferred and is available in rounded, squared, or flat pieces. Veneer
stone is cut to have a nice face, and is usually
mortared onto a surface. Blue stone is common
for patios, and Pennsylvania wall stone is the
cheapest commercially available stone.
Some of the excellent dry stone wallers working
today are self-taught; they fell in love with the
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art and kept at it until they built enough of a

reputation to create a career. Others have more
formal training. Elliott Hayden of Hampton is
a farmer, a mason, and a Masonry teacher at
H.H. Ellis Technical High School in Danielson.
A graduate of that program himself, Elliott
learned all kinds of masonry not just dry stone
work. His uncle was a traditional mason, as is
his cousin Ian McDonald, who lives and works
in Killingly.
In Southeastern Connecticut, there is a
well-known dry stone waller named David
Higginbotham. He is entirely self-taught,
but has built a reputation that has garnered
him work in some of the most beautiful local
historic homes. Working alongside David,
Edward Coombs is another young stone
mason by trade. Together, Dave and Eddie have
rebuilt numerous stone walls in the area, in
addition to building and restoring stone patios,
steps, walkways, and chimneys.
Brian Cooper of Early New England
Restoration Group has done work with local
Native Americans to relocate and restore some
of their historic buildings and stone walls.
For relocation, he numbers each stone to remain
true to the original design. Brians passion
is restoring historic homes down to the tiniest
detail of hand-wrought nails. He is dedicated
to preserving historic homes and the prerequisite
expertise.
I believe that restoration is not only about the
preservation of historic buildings, but the preservation of the craftsmanship that is required
to save these significant structures. Walking
through the ashes of a burned down 1780s
cape, I managed to salvage the only survivors
of that intentional fire: hand wrought nails.
This was just one of many buildings prior to
and since, unable to escape such a fate, and it
awakened a passion in me, says Brian. The
possibility of breathing new life into homesteads
that continue to exist in our landscape centuries
after they were built became my calling, and
in 1977, Early New England Restorations was
conceived. Today, my focus remains the same:
first, to preserve history, be architecturally
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Today, my focus
remains the same:
first, to preserve
history, be
architecturally
respectful, and
build to last the test
of time, and second,
to preserve the
craft by passing
on those skills
to the next
generation.
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respectful, and build to last the test of time, and second, to preserve the craft by passing on those skills to
the next generation.
While interviewing Karl Gifford (who is also my brother-in-law), I learned about a renowned English dry
stone waller named Andrew Pighills who now lives in Connecticut. Originally from Yorkshire, Andrew first
came to the United States in 2000 for a two-week vacation to visit a friend. This friend encouraged him to
stay longer, and Andrew found dry stone work to help pay for the trip. During the stay, he was introduced to a
woman who would later become his American wife, Michelle. The rest is history. Andrew and Michelle now
own Stonewell Farm in Killingworth. The couple has built a career creating spectacular dry stone, Englishstyle gardens.
Around age 10, Andrew, the son of a farmer, was helping his father repair stone boundary walls; at age 16,
Andrew was repairing the walls by himself. He liked the work and decided to make it his career. By age 20, he
was a professional with his own business. Andrew became a Dry Stone Walling Instructor, certified by the Dry
Stone Walling Association of Great Britain and a Certified Advanced Craftsman with the same Association. This
organization has a small but dedicated membership here in New England, as well. Once in his 40s, Andrew attended a
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two-year gardening program through the Royal Horticultural Society. Combining this new knowledge with
his wife Michelle's good eye developed through her fine arts background allowed them to expand into
advanced, English garden design work.
Stonewell Farm is a bustling hive of activity. It is here that Andrew teaches dry stone walling classes which
draw people from all over the country. Collaborating with local chef Paul Barron, Andrew and Michelle also
hold pop-up dinners in their garden, showcasing their outdoor wood-fired stone oven which Andrew built.
The sweeping beauty of their property has attracted the attention of people getting married and is often a
site for wedding photographs.
An hour before Karl Gifford and my sister were to be married, my sister dove into the nearby lake and swam
a mile across and back to burn off her nervous energy. In the meantime, I watched Karl and a fellow dry
stone waller rebuild the large steps leading out of our family's 1820 farmhouse. Armed with their craftsmens
knowledge and simple crowbars, Karl and Jeremy lifted the large slabs of granite and whirled them into
place. I watched in wonder. I quickly braided my sister's wet hair, helped her into her dress, and she stepped
through the threshold, onto the new stone steps. She married a stone whisperer.
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The Basics of
Repairing a
Dry Stone Wall
ry stone walls come in many designs and sizes, but there are
some basic tenets to adhere to as Dry Stone Walling Instructor
Andrew Pighills has taught me.
First, some vocabulary:

n
Foundation Stones: usually the largest stones, as they support
the wall
n First Lift: the section of wall between the foundation stones and

the through stones
n Through Stones: long stones that reach all the way through the wall

and tie the wall together
n Second Lift: the section of wall between the through stones and

the cap stones
n Cap Stones: Large stones that reach across the top of the wall (like a

through stone) and prevent large animals from dislodging

the smaller stones of the second lift when scratching an itch
To repair a fallen section of a dry stone wall, first sort the fallen rocks
by type and remove any portion of the wall that seems unstable. Study
the wall's design and determine if you have enough materials to rebuild
the design or if you need to gather more.
You may need to clear the section of the broken wall entirely and realign
the foundation stones. Use your building lines and pins to keep your
work level and straight as you build.
If you are starting a new wall or adding a new section to an old wall,
the site must first be cleared of any organic matter or black soil. Organic
matter will decompose and settle, compromising the foundation. Dig a
trench at least 6 wider than the width of the wall, and as deep as 13
of the finished walls height. A 3 wall would require a 1 trench. Fill
the trench to within 3-6 grade with 1.5 of clean crushed stone and
compact. This creates a free draining base which greatly reduces the
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chance of frost heave in the cold New England winters.

When you build, remember that it is gravity and friction
alone that hold together a dry stone wall.
Ideally, each stone should have as much contact with its
surrounding stones as possible.
"Two over one, one over two" is the basic rule; every joint
should be crossed, as with brickwork.
Stones should be placed with their length into the center of
the wall, and not along its face. The hearting stones should
be placed as carefully as the face stones.
Never use crushed stone or gravel to replace hearting, as it
has no structural integrity.
Always bring up the middle of the wall with the hearting
stones at the same time that you build the two faces of
the wall.
Place the through stones at about knee height; they are
large enough to span the wall from front to back. They
add structural integrity to the wall and are usually spaced
about one yard apart from one another.
Add a second hearted layer and finish with the large
cap stones.
Corners and ends are a bit trickier. Select these stones with
great care and again, follow the two over one, one over
two technique and alternate crossing the wall and running
parallel to the wall. Use your heaviest cap stones to hold
the corners and ends stone in place. A well-designed wall
should gradually narrow as it increases in height.
Dress for Success:

n
Wear solid footwear ideally with protective toecaps.
Gloves are a good idea.

n Protective eyewear is a must when breaking stones with a

hammer (even when they drop by mistake

and break, sharp chips can fly a considerable
distance).
n Always avoid loose clothing.
n
A Dry Waller's Tools:
A selection of hammers of various weight and size to break

stones if needed, and also to tap them into place
n Building lines with pins
n Measuring tape to keep your work visually accurate and
more structurally sound
n
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From New Orleans

to New Milford:
Getting
to Know
Chef
Joel Viehland
By Hilary Adorno
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Did you know we have a celebrity chef in

our midst? Chef Joel Viehland has planted
roots in Northwest Connecticut and by
early 2017, will have two establishments for
his patrons to enjoy. Here is a little about his
history, experience, and what he is doing to promote
local food and farms:
Joel Viehland grew up in Milwaukee, the youngest
of three children born to hardworking parents of
modest means. By their example, Joel learned the
valueof discipline, respect, and determination
Joels mother loved to bake and cook for her family, and
five nights a week, she did just that. Sunday was deemed
everyone fend for themselves night. As far back as Joel
can remember, he spent Sunday nights figuring out how
to make a grilled cheese sandwich better.
With no aspirations to work in the restaurant industry,
Joel took the job he could get: bus boy at a local restaurant
where his sister worked. After spilling several glasses of
ice water on an elderly woman, Joel was sent to the back
of the house where he was put in front of the dishwasher.
Shortly thereafter, he started in the dish room at Caf
Knickerbocker; within six months, he was running the
pantry station under the supervision of Chef Robert
Wagner. Joels quick uptake in the kitchen was apparent,
but a formal culinary education was financially out of
reach. Knowing this, Chef Wagner urged Joel to enter
a recipe contest the winner to receive a partial
scholarship to Johnson & Wales University College
of Culinary Arts. With the help of Chef Wagner, Joel
entered grilled scallops with infused chili oil and Japanese
eggplant. Joels dish won for the State of Wisconsin
and shortly thereafter, he was off to Providence,
Rhode Island.
In 1997, with his culinary education complete, Joel
moved to the Big Apple. He worked at Gramercy
Tavern, helmed by Tom Colicchio (five-time James Beard
Award recipient and judge on Bravos Top Chef), then
for Food & Wine Magazines Best New Chef Katy Sparks.
Before there was an official farm-to-table movement,
Katy was aligning with local farmers and artisans in order
to produce seasonal dishes at her renowned NYC
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restaurant Quiltys. Joel cites Katy as influential in his

career; Katy is extremely intelligent and her techniques
are astute and well-thought. She taught me how to train
my palate to gain a better understanding of the science
behind seasoning, he said. All told, Joel spent three
-and-a-half years in the New York culinary scene, with a
sequence of very impressive mentors.
In 2001, Joel ventured south to New Orleans where
he worked for Susan Spicer at Bayona, Donald Link at
Herbsaint, Scott Boswell at Stella!, and Emeril Lagasse at
Emerils. Joel fondly recalls his New Orleans experience,
pointing to two important figures: Donald Link, who
taught Joel how to make traditional Cajun food elegant
by isolating the bold flavors in order to maximize their
potential; and, Emeril Lagasse for being an amazingly
competent communicator. Emerils awareness was uncanny. He was able to quickly assess situations and explain
exactly what he needed in an organized manner. He also
was an excellent businessman and I learned a lot about
the legal and financial side of the restaurant business,
said Joel. Emeril was a gentleman who cared deeply
about his staff. Never was this made clearer than in 2005
when Hurricane Katrina devastated most of New Orleans.
Emeril donated money, found lodging for his staff, and
redistributed all employees to his other restaurants.
As far back as Joel can

remember, he spent Sunday
nights figuring out how
to make a grilled cheese
sandwich better.
Once the Emerils flagship location was back on the

grid, Joel was dispatched to be tasting chef, responsible
for writing, creating, ordering, and cooking the menu
fully-dedicated to the VIPs who frequent the restaurant.
The last eight years Joel spent in New Orleans was at
Stella!, an innovative restaurant using relatively unique
tools like Cryovacs and Pacojets it was molecular
gastronomy in its infancy and Joel was at the forefront.
Joel explained to me that trends in restaurants tend to
follow art, fashion, and music. When he was deciding his
next move, he considered all three. It was 2007, and El
Bulli and Mugaritz, both in Spain, were considered the
best restaurants in the world. However, Joel sensed the
trends were favoring another direction: Nordic.
In order to confirm this hunch, Joel sent his sister-inlaw (who was attending college in Copenhagen) on a
reconnaissance mission to check out Noma, as he
believed it on track to be the next big thing. With her
assurances, Joel applied for a position and was quickly
brought on as an intern. Within two months, he was
working as a stagier, plating and cooking at what would
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The last eight

years Joel
spent in New
Orleans was
at Stella!, an
innovative
restaurant
using relatively
unique tools
like Cryovacs
and Pacojets
it was molecular
gastronomy in
its infancy and
Joel was at
the forefront.
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Joel explained to me that trends in restaurants

tend to follow art, fashion, and music. When he
was deciding his next move, he considered all three.
become the Most Influential Restaurant in the World

in 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2014 by Restaurant Magazine.
In a 2015 documentary entitled Noma, My Perfect
Storm, Executive Chef Ren Redzepi explained Nomas
simple core concept: Time and place every day, serve
a meal that tells guests where they are in the world and
what season it is.
These days, reservations at Noma must be made at
least four months in advance and sell out faster than
a Rolling Stones concert. Once Joels work visa ran
out, he was forced to return to the States with the
understanding he would return to Noma once he could
secure an extension. Shortly thereafter, a financial crisis
struck Denmark and a freeze was placed on work visas.
As a result, Joel was not able to go back.
Serendipitously, around this time, came an unexpected
call. Katy Sparks had been brought in as the consulting
chef for a new restaurant in rural Washington, Connecticut
with Nordic sensibilities: Community Table. It was in
search of an executive chef; Katy recommended Joel.
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Within five years, Joel put Community Table on the

culinary map, receiving a total of three James Beard
Award nominations for Best Chef: Northeast and Best
New Restaurant.
Itching to ignite the flame of his own vision, Joel left
Community Table in 2015; in March 2016, Joel opened
The Pine Leaf Caf in a charming white cottage on the
banks of the Aspetuck River in New Milford.
The Pine Leaf Caf offers made-to-order seasonalbreakfast and lunch fare: soups, salads, sandwiches,
and paninis. In keeping with his ethos, Joel works to
incorporate organic and locally-sourced ingredients. For
example, he uses Zero Prophet Coffee, a micro-roaster
out of Washington, to supply roasted-fresh-to-order
coffee beans. Joel is constantly hunting for native resources
that provide humanely-raised, antibiotic-free proteins
and non-GMO foods. The menu is simple, yet polished
all delicious and fresh. Open from April to December,
you may enjoy indoor or outdoor seating, the latter
offering a rippling river. (Side note: get the Cubano.)
ctfoodandfarm.com
147
148
The Pine Leaf Caf is located at 354 Litchfield Rd., New

Milford; it is open Monday through Saturday, 8:00 a.m.
4:00 p.m. and Sundays, 9:00 a.m. 3:00 p.m. (closed
on Tuesdays).
Joels next endeavor is currently unnamed, but under
construction in one of the oldest buildings in Kent. It will
be a 70-seat restaurant featuring al fresco dining, craft
beer, wood-fired pizza, and shared plates; its scheduled
to open in spring 2017.
*Pine Leaf was a historically significant female Native
American chief. She was captured and adopted by the
Apsalooke (Crow) Nation as a child. She would go on
to become one of their fiercest warriors. My favorite
excerpt about her explains how she was named, written
by one of her suitors, James Beckwourth. Pine Leaf refused
his proposals of marriage multiple times, conceding she
would marry him only when the pine leaves turn yellow.
Beckwourth eventually realized that pine leaves do not
turn yellow.
ctfoodandfarm.com
149
Contributors
Hilary Adorno
loves Reynolds Girdler, animals, learning (anything), clean sheets, and the worst that reality
television has to offer. She loathes manmade fibers,
disrespectful people, airplanes, and beets. Loving life
in Litchfield County, Hilary designs beaded jewelry and
contributes to several Connecticut magazines, including
this beautiful publication.
Amy Benson
can usually be found poking around antique shops or

wandering historic neighborhoods. When she is not looking for patina-laden treasures, she works as a freelance
digital designer.
Winter Caplanson
is Editor in Chief and Lead Photographer for

Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine. Her
professional niche is gorgeous photography
for marketing. She has a sixth sense for knowing
which pictures will best tell the story of a farm,
food, or handcraft business and forge a connection
with customers.
Kelley Citroni
is Editor of and contributing author to Connecticut Food

and Farm Magazine.She is a full-time grantwriter and is
determined to eradicate bad grammar and syntax. Progress
is slow, but she's in it for the long haul.
Dan Dzen
is a 21 year-old, fourth-generation farmer from South

Windsor. Believing he was born 100 years too late, his
hobbies include lecturing about the U.S. Constitution and
preparing to become a career fireman.
Margit Fish
loves capturing the sweet, candid moments of life; she is

the co-owner of Full of Whimsy Design and Photography.
Gena Golas
is the HR director for a local catering company who

sometimes gets to sneak away into the pastry kitchen to
make a wedding cake or two. As a lover of all things pie,
gravy, and stuffing, she is happily eating for two again this
Thanksgiving season.
150
Laura Graham
is a deacon at her church, and sells excellent craft bourbon.
Rebecca Hansen
gave up her first choice career as a ballerina princess to be

a writer (much better on the joints, anyway). She spends
her days coming up with clever tweets, explaining to a
three-year old why it's not a good idea to eat straight
butter, and attempting to perfect the chocolate chip cookie
(a fool's mission).
Jennifer Marcuson
currently resides Qubec City, but is a Connecticut native,

and is always making plans for her big move back into New
England. For now, she will settle for long weekend trips
and summers spent with her camera and her family in their
1987 camper-van camping in the White Mountains ore
along the coastline and at as many farms as she can find.
Justin Morales
is the executive bar director at Bear's Smokehouse

BBQ and has traveled internationally to
broaden his knowledge of brews, spirits, and social
cocktailing. He is a two-time Winner of the Faith Middleton
Food Snooze Martini Competition.
Lisa Nichols
does double duty as lead designer and freelance

photographer for Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine.
She is forever grateful to our fearless and inspiring
editor for being given the opportunity to design this
magazine's inner pages and go on assignment photographing
intriguing subjects. In her free time she prowls the streets
documenting life there with her project "The Route".
Maya Oren
is the cinematic-short-films-maker behind MOJALVO, a

visually-driven agency that specializes in telling the stories
behind the culinary, fashion, and travel worlds. When she
is not making visual content (which is not often), she can
be found doing yoga, cafe-hopping, or strumming guitar.
She enjoys writing, especially when its in the form of a
handwritten letter.
Rita Rivera
is a graphic designer and illustrator who is horrible to play

board games with and is addicted to cheese.
Matt Skobra
left the chef life behind to farm with his partner, Callah,
at The Tiny Acre in Woodstock. They use bio-intensive
farming techniques to grow diverse, delicious, and nutritious produce, and specialize in adorable baby vegetables
chefs love to use in their restaurant kitchens. That's called
full circle.
Amy Smith
is a wife of one, mom of five, homeschooler, former dairy

goat farmer, current maple syrup producer, and soon-tobe grandmother! A 4-H leader in New London County
for more than 10 years, she loves to share her excitement
for what 4-H can do for youth. She writes of her family's
adventures in 4-H and life, while occasionally waxing
philosophical on her blog.
Jake Snyder
is masters student at UCONN Avery Point where he

studies the synergistic effects of ocean acidification and
increasing temperature on the growth and survival of
nearshore fish. Hes also the owner and photographer
behind Red Skies Photography, where he focuses his efforts
on teaching others how to better their own craft.
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
ctfoodandfarm.com
151
Indian summer comes gently, folds over the hills

and valleys as softly as the fall of a leaf

on a windless day. It is always unexpected.

After a sharp cold spell, we wake one
morning and look out and the very

air is golden. The sky has a

delicate dreamy color, and the
yet unfallen leaves on the

bravest trees have a
secure look, as if
they would never,
never fall.
-Gladys Taber,
Stillmeadow
Seasons

CFF Fall 2016

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cover photo by Winter Caplanson at Devon Point Farm

Fall 2016 volume six

Letter From the Editor :

Although this is our sixth quarterly issue, many

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

Winter Caplanson Photo

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

own and operate The Tiny Acre at Big Oak

Maintaining a sourdough starter is like having a pet a gloopy, bubbling,

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

familys house, or the neighborhood bakery. Creating a product from

sour, and tangy to even sweaty or barn like.

(cont'd on pg. 96)

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

Combine the rye flour and sour beer in a

Professional pizza ovens run 800-900;

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

Devon Point Farm

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

Like wine, not all cider is created equally; the

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

sprayed. Varieties include rare antique Rhode Island

refurbished the building into a suite of offices. Too

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

The owner shared that the building was about to be

They used wire brushes to remove grease, rust, and

chips of paint from metal parts and machinery,

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

regulations, commissioning a new stainless steel box to

Just after the dissembled parts were unloaded from

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

a clever door within the barns giant rolling doors to

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

In college, I worked for an antique shop in Brooklyn.

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

and would like to add an addition to one coop to better

Brooklyn Restoration Supplys customers come from

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

In the last few years, Rudy has seen an increase in what

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

Lisa Nichols Photo

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

Lisa Nichols Photo

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

Winter Caplanson Photo

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

"Growing up, I loved being on our

my interest in growing corn, my dad suggested that I

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

Lisa Nichols Photos

Growing popcorn, however, is not all that I do.

Lisa Nichols Photo

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

Lisa Nichols Photo

" Being underestimated

CT Food & Farm / Fall 2016

Fridays and sometimes Mondays off. Scheduling this

Connecticut-grown specialty grains, in my opinion,

Lisa Nichols Photo

When it comes to marketing and promotions, I follow