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TEVO BLACK WIDOW

Dear Black Widow user. Temporary solutionsand important informationfor new bies. And so
called pros.
Tevo delivers two Black Widow versions
The standard version is equipped with Marlin RC7.
The BL-Touch verrsion is equipped with Marlin RC7 BL-Touch. These machines do not come with a
part to mount the BL-Touch to the machine. So the machine can not be used this way when ready. To
overcome this problem, you have to downgrade the firmware first to BW_MarlinRC7_With_BLTouch
Disabled.zip which can be found in the file section of this group
https://www.facebook.com/groups/TEVO.Black.Widow.owners/files/
This version uses the original Z-min stop. When the machine is working and calibrated you can print
the BL-Touch mount first. You cant mix firmware using the BL-Touch and the magnetic Z-min
endstop! It is one o nor the other.
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Currently (October 2016) there are many reports that the Autobed levelling in Marlin RC7 is not
working correct. This has nothing to do with the BL-Touch itself but is Marlin related. Download from
the same file section the Marlin _RC6_Black Widow-BL Touch.zip version
The reworked RC6 BL-Touch version does not have lesser functionality as RC7 concerning printing
and print quality.
The BL-Touch Mount file can be downloaded here.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1761761 Large version.
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The latest versions (september 2016) come with a E3D V6 clone heater unit.
Before use it is adviced to check the unit for sealing by the following link.
http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly
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If you want to use an object cooler fan you need to put two extra (+) and () wires in the drag chain.
These wires should come from the MKS V1.3 board FAN connection. The fan speed on this
connection is controlled by G-code PWm from 0 to 255.
If you order a BL-Touch version you get two extra cables which you need to put in the drag chain.

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Video build in 8 steps including first print can be found on Youtube. Videos by Dean Walsh.
Part1 Unboxing
Part2 Y-axis cross bar
Part3 Z uprights and leadscrews
Part4 X=axis plat motor and belt
Part5 Extruder Z-axis motor Heatbed
Part6 Dragchain, wires, limit switches, covers
Part7 Control box and PSU
Part8 Initial setup and first print using Cura.
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If you are located in a 110 Volt area you need to set the 110/220 Volt switch at the side of the power
supply to 110 Volt. The powersupply comes standard set at 220 Volt. If the voltage is set to 110 Volt
in a 220 Volt location then the heatbed might give problems with heating.

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When you are printing direct from a SD card and you have random problems during printing like
reverse extruding, shifting layers and other unexpected movements make sure the LCD cables are
not running over the fan or near the fan of the power supply.
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Tip! To align the Z bar. Use two soda or beer cans as shown in the picture to make both sides level.

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If you need to hook up the BL-Touch this is the correct connection schematic. You can only connect
one Z-min endstop connector!

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Test your BLT when it is connected this way.
BL-Touch (BLT) selftest always start with this first!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1] Disconnect the USB cable. Power on the machine. The BLT pin should go out and in 2 times and
then the light should be solid red.
If it does not go in and out check the 3 wire cable as it does not get 5 Volt power. No need to proceed
if the selftest is not working! Solve this first!
If the BLT starts to flash red. It might that the top of the BLT pin is deformed as it ran into the heat
bed during previous test. Remove the hexagon screw at the top of the BLT. Remove the pin and
check the top. The heatshrink part should be uniform round. The picture shows a deformed top part.
If this is not the case use a hairdryer and warm the heat shrink and form it to a circular round shape.

Assemble the BLT again and make sure the hexagon screw is flush with the top of the BLT.
2] Connect the USB cable to the machine. Connect the BLT cable on the correct spot on the MKS V1.3
board. Make sure the correct firmware is on the MKS V1.3 board. We advice Marlin _RC6_Black
Widow-BL Touch.zip .
Open Repetier, Pronterface or any controller that can send G-codes on a command line. Make sure
the machine is detected by the software!
Send the following codes to test the BLT:
M280 P0 S10 ; pushes the pin down
M280 P0 S90 ; pulls the pin up
M280 P0 S120 ; Self test keeps going untill you do pin up/down or release alarm
M280 P0 S160 ; Release alarm
We assume the BLT is correctly installed on the machine 8.0 mm from tip nozzle to bottom BLT (not
the pin)

Move the Z-axis upwards and make sure the head is above the middle of the heatbed!!!!!!!

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Calibration.
These instructions were written to explain how to calibrate using a computer connected through the
USB port to your printer. This process also assumes that the EEPROM has been enabled in Marlin.
M851 ; note the number
M851 Z0 ; set the offset to zero
G28 G1 Z0 The LCD display should show Z = 0
From the machine LCD display go to the Menu then Prepare/Move axis/0.1mm/Move Z
Now move the Z axis slowly down until the nozzle is the right distance from the build plate (folded
piece of paper or thin card).
* Note the Z axis value on the display it should be something like -1.5
M851 Z-1.5 ; to set the offset you got in the previous step.
M500 ; Stores the values in EEPROM so that it is not reset when you power the printer off and on.
If you find that you need to increase or decrease the gap then do:
M851 Z-1.4 ; this would make the gap bigger
M851 Z-1.6 ; this would make the gap smaller
M500 ; to save the value to EEPROM (remember the -1.4, -1.5 and -1.6 are just examples , yours will
be different)
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Arrange the LCD cables away from the fan of the power supply in the controlbox. This prevents users
of SD cards that the data is corrupted while printing.
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Tevo machines do not come with any driver/slicer or other machine related software supplied. For
slicing (preparing a file and printing a .stl file) use Cura 10.5.4 this is a full function free software with
full slicing and printing capabilities. Use this as standard slicing software for the first prints you make.
If this is your first 3D printer do not use the Cura 2.X versions yet as it does not support easy access
to start/end G-code. https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/download-request/74
Start code

G21 ;metric values


G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G29 ; uncomment this line when BL-Touch is used
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000 ; Put printing message on LCD screen

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M 117 Printing...

End code

M104 S0 ;extruder heater off


M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300

;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release

some of the pressure


G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G1 X330 Y250 ;move X to the right and the bed to the front
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning

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For designing simple 3D objects use Thinkercad. This is a free full function online software.
https://www.tinkercad.com
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For uploading firmware (machine control settings) you need to install Arduino software. Arduino is
free full function software. Version 1.6.12 is OK. https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
Install the Ug8lib otherwise you get compilation errors!
For how to upload machine firmware you can use this video as guide. Use Mega 2560 as board in
Arduino IDE. You have to choose only different file to upload from the file section do not use other
Marlin files.
File section: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TEVO.Black.Widow.owners/files/
For Black Widow (no BL-Touch) >>> BW_Marlin-RC7_With_BLTouch Disabled.zip
For Black Widow (with BL-Touch) >>> Marlin _RC6_Black Widow-BL Touch.zip
Video how to install Arduino IDE, Ug8libary and upload firmware:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPNptiXuVCY
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The USB driver for the MKS V1.3 and V1.4 control board can be downloaded from the FTDI site.
The machine uses for Windows users a Virtual Com Port (VCP)RS232
http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm choose the correct operating system!

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http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/AppNotes/AN_119_FTDI_Drivers_Installation_Guide_
for_Windows7.pdf
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For other files check the files section of this FB group.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/TEVO.Black.Widow.owners/files/
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If you have a new machine with the factory installed firmware and you home the machine and the Z
axis goes only up then you have installed the wrong firmware!
For all newbies best advice is not to use the BL-Touch yet. First install BW_MarlinRC7_With_BLTouch
Disabled.zip firmware which uses the original magnetic Z-min endstop switch. Get used to manual
bedleveling and later install the BL-Touch when you feel comfortable and then use Marlin
_RC6_Black Widow-BL Touch.zip firmware.
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To have a flat printing surface use a 250x400 mm 4mm thick regular window glassplate. No need
for expensive Borosilicate or Tempered glass.
Do not use binder clamps/clips to mount the glassplate to the heatbed. Use 0.5 mm silicone thermal
pads inbetween.

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This prevents the glassplate to move and gives easy placing. Use Auqanett hairspray or 3Dlac for
correct bonding of the first layer. Due to the thickness of the glassplate you need preheat the
heatbed longer so the glassplate can receive the radiation heat from the heatbed. Approx. 5 minutes
extra.
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Warm up time of the heatbed from 20 to 80 degrees Celsius takes +/- 3 miutes time. If your heatbed
takes much longer check the 110/220 Volt power supply switch for correct setting. And check by
handtouch if all parts of the heatbed are equally heated.
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Disclaimer:
This document is brougth to you by Jupa Creations

www.jupacreations.com

All info used is on OWN RISK base.


We have no personal or financial connection with TEVO or other 3D manufacturers.

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