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Frankies Knitted Stuff

Ten Stitch Blanket


This blanket can be knitted in
the yarn and needles of your
choice and is a great way of
using up leftover yarn.

My blanket was knitted in Noro


Kureyon (100 m / 50g) on
5.5mm / US size 9 needles. I
used 700 g of yarn and the
blanket measures about
107 x 122 cm / 42 x 48".

The Ten Stitch Blanket was inspired by Elizabeth


Zimmermanns baby blanket in The Opinionated Knitter which
is made up of wide L-shaped strips of garter stitch sewn
together. I have used her technique for shaping the corners but
have worked my blanket as one continuous strip, joining it as I
go, to avoid the dreaded sewing up.

Things You Need To Know

Throughout this pattern I refer to ridges rather than rows.


A ridge in garter stitch is two knit rows.
Where possible, all outside first stitches are slipped
knitwise to help with the joining. I havent put this in the
instructions so as to simplify them and its not disastrous if
you forget.
The ten stitch strip being knitted is joined on to the body
of the knitting as you go along, thus avoiding any sewing
up. This is done by working joining ridges like this:
K9, slip next stitch knitwise, pick up and knit one
stitch from the edge of the next ridge on the knitting
(or just in from the edge), pass the slipped stitch
over. Now turn and knit all 10 stitches to complete
the ridge.

This is the join I use but feel free to experiment and work
it in any way that pleases you. Instructions for the popular
chain join are given later in the pattern.
Shaping is achieved by working short rows/ridges. Knit
the specified number of stitches then wrap the following
stitch, turn the work and knit back. This wrapping and
turning will be abbreviated as w&t in the pattern and is
worked like this:

Bring the yarn forward, slip the next stitch purlwise,


take the yarn back again, replace the slipped stitch on
the left hand needle, bring the yarn forward again
and turn the work.

Because of all the turning, its best to knit this blanket on


short needles. As it grows youll find that you wont need
to turn the whole blanket so the process is smoother.

Begin with a Square

Using the long tail method, cast on 10 stitches.


Knit 9 ridges (18 rows).

Garter stitch is a square stitch, that is to


say one ridge = one stitch. So a 10 stitch
square should consist of 10 ridges (20
rows) but you only work 9 ridges here as
the cast on edge counts as the first ridge.
Double Corner

This is made up of four steps; refer to the notes above for how to
work the short ridges and remember - each ridge is two rows.

Step 1

Ridge 1: K9, w&t, K9.


Ridge 2: K8, w&t, K8.
Ridge 3: K7, w&t, K7.
Ridge 4: K6, w&t, K6.
Ridge 5: K5, w&t, K5.
Ridge 6: K4, w&t, K4.
Ridge 7: K3, w&t, K3.
Ridge 8: K2, w&t, K2.
Ridge 9: K1, w&t, K1.

Notes

Even if you are slipping the first stitch of every ridge as I did,
knit that stitch on Ridge 9 when you are only working one
stitch.
Your needle should be at a 45 angle to your knitted square and
point diagonally upwards and to the right.

Step 2

Ridge 1: K2, w&t, K2.


Ridge 2: K3, w&t, K3.
Ridge 3: K4, w&t, K4.
Ridge 4: K5, w&t, K5.
Ridge 5: K6, w&t, K6.
Ridge 6: K7, w&t, K7.
Ridge 7: K8, w&t, K8.
Ridge 8: K9, w&t, K9.
Ridge 9: K10, turn, K10.
Notes

You have now knitted a square on top of your original square,


with a diagonal line marked across it.
Your needle will be pointing straight up.

Step 3

Ridge 1: K9, w&t, K9.


Ridge 2: K8, w&t, K8.
Ridge 3: K7, w&t, K7.
Ridge 4: K6, w&t, K6.
Ridge 5: K5, w&t, K5.
Ridge 6: K4, w&t, K4.
Ridge 7: K3, w&t, K3.
Ridge 8: K2, w&t, K2.
Ridge 9: K1, w&t, K1.

Notes

This is exactly the same as Step 1.


Your needle will now point diagonally upwards and to the left.

Step 4

Ridge 1: K2, w&t, K2.


Ridge 2: K3, w&t, K3.
Ridge 3: K4, w&t, K4.
Ridge 4: K5, w&t, K5.
Ridge 5: K6, w&t, K6.
Ridge 6: K7, w&t, K7.
Ridge 7: K8, w&t, K8.
Ridge 8: K9, w&t, K9.

Notes

Ridges 1-8 are the same as in Step 2.


You will now have knitted two squares on top of your original
square and your needle will be horizontal and pointing to the
left.

Thats the only time that you need to work a double corner;
from now on all corners will be single.

Joining Ridges

The next thing to do is to work ten joining ridges down the side
of your original square. This is when you choose which join to
use. The original, simple join gives a raised edge on the right
side while the chain join gives a raised chain stitch edge; both
are smooth on the wrong side.

Simple Join Chain Join

The Chain Join

Slip one stitch knitwise, bring the yarn forward (as if to purl),
pick up and knit one stitch, pass both stitches over (the slipped
one and the yarn forward), turn and slip the first stitch of the
return row purlwise, holding the yarn in front.

That extra yarn forward stitch is to hide the old colour when
working with variegated yarn or changing colours; if you are
knitting your blanket in one colour you can leave it out.

The first joining ridge after the Double Corner is joined to the
end of the first fixed ridge.
If you look closely at the inside of the corner, you will see
several bumps along the inside edge. These are a combination of
wraps and the ends of normal ridges. If you study the picture
below you will see two wraps (these slide if pushed) and two big
bumps. These are a wrap and a ridge stuck together and it is the
one furthest from your needle that you work into.

bumps

this is the one you want

wraps

Continue working joining ridges into


the edge of each ridge in turn. I tend
to work into the bump just in from the
edge circled in the picture but
there are no hard and fast rules about
this.

When you have worked your ten


joining ridges you will be back
level with the cast on edge.

Single Corner

The single corner consists of two steps, these are the same as
Steps 1 and 4 of the double corner.
Step 1

Ridge 1: K9, w&t, K9.


Ridge 2: K8, w&t, K8.
Ridge 3: K7, w&t, K7.
Ridge 4: K6, w&t, K6.
Ridge 5: K5, w&t, K5.
Ridge 6: K4, w&t, K4.
Ridge 7: K3, w&t, K3.
Ridge 8: K2, w&t, K2.
Ridge 9: K1, w&t, K1.

Step 2

Ridge 1: K2, w&t, K2.


Ridge 2: K3, w&t, K3.
Ridge 3: K4, w&t, K4.
Ridge 4: K5, w&t, K5.
Ridge 5: K6, w&t, K6.
Ridge 6: K7, w&t, K7.
Ridge 7: K8, w&t, K8.
Ridge 8: K9, w&t, K9.

The Cast On Edge

Now work another ten joining ridges into the cast on edge. This
is the last time youll have to count the ridges. Work the first
joining ridge into the same place as the last join before the
corner or as near as you can get to it.

When you get to the next


corner (where the cast on
tail of yarn is), work
another single corner as
before.
The Rest of the Blanket

From now on you can stop counting the joining ridges. Just
work along the sides until you get to the next corner, do a single
corner to get round it and carry on.

As you go along you might find it helpful to mark the point of


the next corner with a stitch marker or safety pin. This is the
bump between two slightly longer ridges; stretching the knitting
apart helps to find it. Work the last joining ridge of each side
and the first join of the next into this corner point.

This is fun knitting, simple to do but strangely compulsive. So,


keep going until you are bored or run out of yarn. Depending on
where you decide to stop, the finished blanket will be a square, a
rectangle or neither of the above with a sticky-out bit on one
side like mine.

The Last Ridge

Wherever you decide to stop, work the first row of the last
joining ridge as normal and then cast off. For a regular shaped
blanket work the first row of that last ridge into a corner point.
You can use any weight of yarn and any needles for this pattern,
just experiment with a few rows of garter stitch until you find a
knitted fabric that you like. The blanket looks good when
worked in variegated yarns with a long colour run but stunning
effects can also be achieved with lots of different colours. There
are some amazing Ten Stitches knitted with leftover sock yarn.

You dont have to make a blanket. I use this little one (which I
really must get round to blocking one day) as a cloth on a small
table.

Abbreviations

K knit
w&t wrap and turn: Bring the yarn forward, slip the next
stitch purlwise, take the yarn back again,
replace the slipped stitch on the left hand
needle, bring the yarn forward again and
turn the work.

Frankie Brown, 2008.


My patterns are for personal use only and should not be used to knit items for sale.
Please do not use them for teaching purposes without my permission.

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