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Maps Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Tallinn
October - November 2016

Dark Side of Tallinn


Discover the citys
mysterious side

inyourpocket.com
N110 - 2.50
Contents

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

The Basics 6
Helpful things everyone should know

Arriving & Transport


Arriving 9
Getting here is half the fun

Transport 10
Navigating Tallinn

Culture & Events 16


Major events, cinemas, art galleries and more

Kalamaja - Tallinns artistic district 21


The hip and happening neighbourhood

Dark Side of Tallinn 26


Explore the citys hidden secrets
Viimsi - The great coastal getaway 40
Sightseeing Tallinns lovely northern neighbour
The Old Town 28
The medieval centre in a nutshell
Leisure 42
Take action
Sightseeing tours 30
By bus, by bike or by tram
Restaurants 44
From sushi to slt
Museums 32
Covering city history, from tunnels to airplanes
Cafs 65
The hottest places in the caffeine scene
Kadriorg 38
Stroll in Tallinns most beautiful park
Nightlife 68
Find your perfect party

Hotels 82
A bed for every budget

Shopping - Authentic Estonian 86


Truly Estonian finds

Shopping 88
From antiques to fashion purchases

Directory 93
From dental care to shoe repair

Maps & Index


Old Town map 95
City centre map 96 - 97
Street index 98
Lhike Jalg stairs (p.26)

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 3


Foreword
Cosy jumpers, mulled wine, and foggy caf windows are
signs that winter is coming to Tallinn. The days are getting
shorter and the nights, much, much longer. But its not all
darkness and gloom because the fun and festivities continue
all year long. There are many concerts and events taking E S S E N TI A L
Publication details C I T Y G U I D E S
place, which you can read about in our events (see page 16). Publisher Linnajuht O
Printed by Reusner, Tallinn
If youve had your share of Old Town sights or want to see Published 11,500 - 15,000 copies, 6 times per year
something a little different, you can also check out the ISSN 1406-2690 O Linnajuht
bohemian neighbourhood of Kalamaja (see page 21), or
the fantastic natural wonders of the Viimsi area just north Company Office & Accounts
Vana-Viru 4, 10111 Tallinn, Estonia
of Tallinn (see page 40). In spirit of the dark season, weve Tel/fax. +372 644 64 70
explored some of the citys spookiest places that you can tallinn@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
read all about in our feature The Dark Side of Tallinn (see Accountant Marian Puusepp
page 26).
Editorial
Of course, Tallinn has even a lot more to offer, but youll Editor In Chief Nat A. Singer
Contributing Editor Rosalie Sepp
have to find that out for yourself. Well be there to help you Contributing Editor Steve Roman
along your journey in the form of this handy little guide, Researcher Irja Luks
so grab that camera, put Tallinn in your pocket and hit the Designer Kllike Johannson-Singer
paths, the streets or whichever surface your feet prefer and Photography Kllike Johannson-Singer and Nat A. Singer
discover what this historic city has to offer. unless otherwise stated.
Cover Kllike Johannson-Singer

cover story Sales & Circulation


Senior Account Manager / Circulation Marek Prn
Account Manager Irja Luks
Featured on the cover of this is-
Copyright notice
sue of Tallinn in Your Pocket is one Text, maps and photos copyright Linnajuht O. Maps copyright
of three bronze monk statues cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication
donated by Toomas Annus to the may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the
City of Tallinn as part of a sculp- purpose of review, without written permission from the pub-
tural competition in 2011. You lisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is
can visit the Three, as the work used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
is named, in the Danish Kings
Garden (see page 28).

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4 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com


Basics
Here are some helpful tips on how best to avoid some em-
barrassing situations while spending your time in Tallinn. basic data
Tallinn
Customs Population: 440,206 (as of 01.03.2016)
European alcoholics rejoice! When you leave Estonia Density: 2,734.6 inhabitants/km2
headed to another EU country, you can take out as much Ethnic composition: Estonians 53.2%, Russians 38.1%,
booze as you can carry (or convince inspectors is for your Ukrainians 3.4%, Others 5.3%
personal use). Coming into Estonia from another EU coun-
try, each individual aged 18 and over may carry in duty-free Estonia
90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer and 10 litres of hard Population: 1,311,800 (as of 01.01.2016)
alcohol (over 21%alc/vol), 800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, Territory: 45,339km2
200 cigars and 1kg of pure tobacco. When leaving, beware Density: 28.93 inhabitants/km2
of stricter tobacco restrictions if youre headed to the UK, Ethnic composition: Estonians 68.7%, Russians 24.8%,
Sweden or Finland. Relatively unlucky travellers from non- Ukrainians 1.7%, Others 4.8%
EU countries can carry in a measly 4 litres of wine (not Elevation: The highest point in Estonia (and the Balt-
exceeding 175 in combined value), 2 litres of beverages ics) is Suur Munamgi (318m) in Vru County
up to 21%alc/vol and 1 litre of hard alcohol; 40 cigarettes, Islands: 1,521. The three largest are Saaremaa
100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 50g pure tobacco. How much 2,673km2, Hiiumaa 1,023km2, and Muhu 206km2
booze and smokes you can take home depends on your Population of other cities: Tartu 97,272, Narva
own countrys restrictions. For more information, contact 62,064, Prnu 40,914, Kohtla-Jrve 38,190.
the Customs Department, Narva mnt. 9j, tel. 880 08 14, Local time: Estonia is in the Eastern European Time
tolliinfo@emta.ee, www.emta.ee. Zone (GMT+2hrs). Summer time (GMT+3hrs) is in ef-
fect from the last Sunday of March until the last Sunday
of October.
Getting cash
You should have no problems filling your wallet in Tallinn
- cash machines (ATMs) are never hard to find. Big banks
are usually your best bet for exchanging currency. At night
and on weekends, however, decent exchanges are more
elusive. Tavid at Aia 5 has good rates, especially when
changing somewhat larger amounts and also runs an all-
night exchange window that will do in a pinch. Their night
rates are higher than daytime rates though. Another place
that offers very good rates is Eurex at Viru vljak 4 (Viru
Centre). Although there arent as many as there used to be,
beware of some of the various small exchanges around
town. These have convenient locations and working
hours, but generally give unfavourable rates and even
many charge a heavy commission on each transaction -
even when they state in big bold letters No Commission,
ie. read the fine print.
free internet for all
tourist information By now, most have heard that Estonia
is indeed a pretty tech-savy country. In
Tourist Information Centre fact much of the country is blanketed in
The citys official tourist information point is the best WiFi or wireless internet hotspots. From long-distance
equipped to answer any question.QC2, Niguliste buses to cafe, pubs and even some shops and public
2, tel. (+372) 645 77 77, www.visittallinn.ee. Open areas - WiFi is everywhere. For foreigners visiting Tal-
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. linn this means youll be able to check e-mails, SKYPE
with friends back home or share photos on Facebook
using your Android phone, iPhone or Blackberry - free
of charge. Just look for the orange and black WiFi sign
and youre good to go. With all that free WiFi around,
youll also want to purchase the Tallinn In Your Pocket
PASTA I PIZZA I BAR iPhone app available here. In Estonia, WiFi information
including WiFi locations is provided by www.WiFi.ee.
CHECK IT OUT ON PAGE 55

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Basics
Electricity national holidays
The electrical current is 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Sockets take the
standard, round-pinned European plugs. January 1 New Years Day
February 24 Independence Day (1918)
April 14 (2017) Good Friday
Ethnic groups April 16 (2017) Easter Sunday
About 68% of Estonias population is made up of ethnic May 1 May Day
Estonians, descendents of Finno-Ugric tribes that settled June 23 Victory Day
this area about 5,000 years ago. The largest minority in June 24 St. Johns Day (Midsummer)
todays Estonia is by far the Russians, at roughly 26% August 20 Day of Restoration of Inde-
of the national population. Along with Ukrainians and pendence (1991)
Byelorussians, thousands of Russians moved or were December 24 Christmas Eve
sent here during Soviet times, and chose to remain after December 25 Christmas Day
independence. Though some integration is taking place
among the younger generation, language and cultural
barriers tend to keep Estonians and Russian-speakers Religion
apart. Some locals will tell you that Estonians are all tree-
worshiping pagans at heart, but the truth is that this
isnt a very religious country at all. There is no state re-
Language ligion, and according to the 2000 census, only 31.8% of
Confused? Join the crowd. Estonian is completely unrelated the population claims any religious affiliation. Of those
to Russian, Latvian, Swedish, German or any other Indo-Eu- that do, about 180,000 are Lutheran and 170,000 Russian
ropean tongue. Along with Finnish and Hungarian, Estonian Orthodox.
belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages, thought to
have originated somewhere beyond the Urals thousands
of years ago. Luckily, the younger generation and those in Tax free shopping
the tourist industry speak English. You can find some of the Tax-free shopping is finally starting to gain popularity
more essential words and phrases on the opposite page. in Estonia and if you are a non-EU resident and plan to
spend over 38 on electronics, clothing or even sou-
public toilets venirs - it just might be worth trying to claim the tax back.
When making a purchase just present your passport, ask
Study your geometry to avoid an embarrassing for a tax-free stamp on your receipt and take receipts
situation: A triangle pointing down signifies the mens along with unused purchases to the customs office at
room (M or Meeste), while the triangle pointing up is the airport or border-crossings into Russia when you
the womens room (N or Naiste). leave the country. At the airport, anything checked into
Visitors with pressing needs wont be left with their legs luggage will need to be claimed at Customs before you
crossed, as there are quite a few public toilets around the enter the security gates. Visit www.globalrefund.com for
city. Some can be found at the Viru Gate on Valli (C-3) more details.
and theres a Swedish-built automatic WC on Toompea
Hill (C-1), nicknamed locally the million-crown toilet making the call
due to the public outcry at its construction bill. It can be
found next to the Nevski Cathedral (C/D-1). Theres also Calling within Estonia To call any number within
a few new high-tech, self-cleaning ones around the city. Estonia, either from a fixed line or a local mobile, just
The most central dial the number as its written. There are no city codes
is right next to in Estonia.
Tammsaare Park Mobile numbers Estonian mobile numbers all begin
(C-3), and others with 5. Just dial the number as is. Again, there are no
can be found at; special codes.
Toompark near Calling Estonia from abroad Estonias country code
Balti Jaam (B-1). is +372. Just dial your international access code (00
However, the fear from most European countries), then 372 then the
of being trapped number, be it mobile or land line. Thats it.
inside may deter Roaming To call any telephone in Estonia from a fore-
the more easily ign mobile account, dial +372 followed by the number,
frightened, no as outlined before.
matter how badly Calling abroad from Estonia Dial 00, the country
they need to pee. code, then the rest of the numbers.

8 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com


Arriving & Transport
As European capitals go, Tallinn is a remarkably easy-access city.
The passenger port and train station are both within shouting
distance of the Old Town/centre, while the airport and bus sta-
tion are a quick, cheap 10 - 15 minute taxi ride away.
Tallinn is basically a large village and getting from one end
of the city to the other is usually fairly quick and easy - com-
pared to most international standards of course. Here we
have listed all of the different ways you can navigate the
city - and in some cases even beyond.

Arriving in Tallinn
By plane
Tallinns airport may be a super-modern affair, but its so
small youre never in danger of getting lost. Once past By train
the luggage receiving area, youll find ATMs and currency Arriving by train at Tallinns Balti Jaam (B-1) puts you just a
exchange in the centre of the hall; toilets and car rental couple hundred metres from the walls of Old Town. Since
offices are downstairs. renovations the station itself is no longer a Soviet-era relic
and now includes a small grocery store, a nice restaurant
Getting to town and even a day spa, in case you need to unwind after your
A taxi ride to the centre roughly costs 10 and takes be- journey. Left luggage is in the back of the main hall, just off
tween 10 and 20 minutes. You can also take bus N2 just the breeze-way that leads to the platforms. The exchange
outside the airport to the down town Viru Centre. Bus booth (across from left luggage) offers decent rates on all
leaves approximately every 20 minutes from 06:30 until Scandinavian, Baltic and Russian currencies. ATMs are just
midnight. Single ride ticket costs 2 and can be bought next to the front doors.
from the driver.
Getting to town
By ship Just cross the street at the underpass and walk up Nunne
Most ferries and catamarans arrive at the Passenger Port tnav into Old Town. Avoid the taxis that wait here.
(reisisadam), terminals A, B and D. Left luggage and a help-
ful information booth can be found in the main hall of ter- By car
minal A. Exchange offices are plentiful but not always eco- Crossing the border from Latvia is completely hassle-free
nomical. ATMs are just as easy to find. Terminal D, located now that the Baltics belong to Schengen. Getting over
just across the small neck of water, has similar services. the border from Russia will take quite a bit longer. In both
Lindalines boats arrive at the neighbouring Linnahall cases, be sure to bring your cars registration papers and a
Speedboat Harbour, where a currency exchange booth is valid insurance policy, such as the international green card.
open whenever boats are arriving. Rates here are decent. You can also buy insurance right at the border station.
Please note that the speed limit on highways is 90km/h, in
Getting to town the cities 50km/h, unless otherwise noted, and the head-
You can just head for the spires of Old Town on foot, but a lights have to be always turned on. For fares and regula-
taxi from the Passenger Port or the Linnahall should cover tions on bringing a car by ship from Finland or Sweden,
the short ride to town for 4 - 5. contact the ferry companies.

By bus roadside assistance


Buses arrive at the bus station (autobussijaam), (H-5), lo-
cated just off the main highway from Tartu. Once at the Autoklubi Autoabi
station, youll find left luggage in the basement. The cash- Unfortunately their website isnt in English, but weve
only currency exchange takes all major currencies, includ- been assured that if youre having car trouble theyll be
ing Russian roubles, but in our experience gives worse able to assist. 12 locations across Estonia also means
rates than many of the exchanges in Old Town. The ATM you probably wont have to wait too long for help.
machine by the main entrance is probably a better bet. Qtel. (+372) 59 07 80 00, info@autoabi.com, www.
autoabi.com. Open 24hrs.
Getting to town
The city centre is just 1km away, down Juhkentali tnav Falck Autoabi
from behind the station. Buses N17 and 23 leave directly By far the most full-service outfit in the country, they
from the coach area near platform 1, heading to Vabaduse offer help in any kind of road emergency, all across
vljak (4th stop) in the centre while trams N2 and 4 run Estonia.Qtel. (+372) 697 91 88/1888, info@falck.ee,
from nearby Tartu maantee to Viru vljak (4th stop), also in www.falck.ee. Open 24hrs.
the centre. A taxi to Old Town should cost about 6.
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 9
Arriving & Transport
be returned to the City Government Info Hall, youll then
Public transport receive your 2 deposit fee back - or you can just keep it
Tallinns public transportation system is a fairly straight- as a souvenir.
forward network of buses, trolley-buses and trams, all of For more info please go to: www.visittallinn.ee/visitor/
which use the same ticketing-system. plan/getting-around/public-transport.

Trams provide the simplest way to get around downtown


areas, whereas buses are mainly for getting to outlying
neighbourhoods. From the centre, most major bus routes
leave from the terminal under the Viru Centre, or from
Vabaduse Vljak (Freedom Square). You can easily hop on
a tram in several places adjacent to Old Town. Routes and
schedules are also listed in English at soiduplaan.tallinn.
ee/#tallinna-linn/map/en where you can also find a handy
route planner to help you navigate your way through Tal- Parking
linns pubic transport system. Detailed route maps are also Tallinn is so centralised and pedestrian-friendly that theres
posted at many public transport stops and stations. NB! absolutely no reason to bring a car. If you happen to be
From September 2016 tram N2 will be running on a here with your own set of wheels though, keep in mind
shortened route up to Balti Jaam train station and tram that finding parking in downtown Tallinn, especially during
N1 will be back on route in autumn 2017. working hours, can be a real nightmare. Public parking on
streets in the town centre, as well as a few streets in Old
When climbing on board, in 98% of cases, you can just Town, costs 1.5 - 6/hour, depending on the zone. Look
hop on any door, i.e. you dont have to show your ticket for posted signs to tell you the price and the hours/days
to the driver. The rare exception is a few buses that have that paid parking is in effect. Buy per-hour parking passes
no-entry signs on their rear doors. If you see this sign from streetside vending machines or kiosks, and be sure
and the door doesnt open, head to the front and buy a to leave a parking clock (or barring that a written note) on
ticket from the driver or scan your pre-purchased Smart- your dashboard to mark the time that you first parked. If all
card at one of the scanners on board (see below). Tick- this sounds too complicated, you can just use the following
ets and cards are otherwise checked by inspectors who guarded central parking lots/garages:
stop transport vehicles in between scheduled stops. The
fine for riding like a rabbit - as locals call it - is 40. Ex- Europark Aia 18
ceptions include: registered residents of Tallinn, Tallinn 3.20/hour.QC3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 661 02 23, www.
Card holders, unaccompanied children under the age of europark.ee.
six and children under the age of three plus one accom-
panying adult - they all ride the public transport system Europark Rtli 3
for free. 3.80/hour.QD2, Rtli 3, tel. (+372) 661 02 23, www.
europark.ee.
Tickets: The same tickets/cards are good on all three
systems. The simplest version is the single-ride ticket. Non Rvala parking house
-Tallinn-residents will need to purchase this ticket from During the day, 2.40/hr. Between 21:00 to 09:00, 0.30/
the driver for 2 and it no longer needs to be validated. hr.QD4, Rvala pst. 3, tel. (+372) 661 02 23, www.
If you are planning on travelling a lot via public trans- europark.ee. Open 24hrs.
port, other types of tickets are good for specific periods
of time and are sold in all post offices, at Selver or Prisma Rotermann parking house
info desks, R-Kiosk shops and the Tallinn City Government Entrance from Ahtri street. 2.40/hr.QB4, Rotermanni
Info Hall (Vabaduse vljak 7). All longer period tickets are 5/ Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 661 02 23, www.europark.ee.
now e-tickets and come in the form of a plastic Smartcard. Open 24hrs.
Youll need to rent the card for a one-time deposit fee of
(2) and then purchase virtual tickets that will be added Solaris parking house
to the card. These come in the form of a 24 hour (3), 72 Entrance from Sakala street. 3.20/hr.QD3, Estonia pst.
hour (5), 5 day (6) or 30 day (23) pass. 9, tel. (+372) 661 02 23, www.europark.ee. Open 24hrs.

The card will need to be validated upon entering the vehi- Vabaduse vljak parking house
cle by holding it in front of the orange validation machine. 3.60/hr.QD2, Vabaduse vljak 9, tel. (+372) 651 15
Youll know its been scanned properly when a green light 30/1669, www.parkimine.ee. Open 24hrs.
and beep sound show that your pass has been validated.
Each time you add another E-ticket to the card youll Viru Centre parking house
need to repeat this process. When you no longer require 2/hour.QC4, Viru vljak 4, tel. (+372) 651 15 30/1669,
the use of Tallinns public transport system, the card can www.parkimine.ee. Open 24hrs.
10 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Arriving & Transport
taxis
Taxi stands can be found near major hotels and next to
the Drama theatre just outside Old Town, but grabbing
a taxi on the street, especially those parked in Old Town,
usually comes with a premium fare. Always check the
prices first, which should posted on the taxis right rear
window. Taxis typically charge a starting fee and begin
racking up the kilometre charges immediately. Luckily
the City recently implemented a law governing taxis
and have put a cap on the starting fare (max. 5.50)
and per kilometre rates (1.10/km) - so even if you just
hail a cab you shouldnt be in for too much of a sur-
prise. Ordering by phone is the best strategy though,
as usually they have better rates. Another option is to
use one of the numerous taxi ordering apps like Taxify,
Taxigo or Drivr to name a few. The often controversal
Uber taxi service is also availble in Tallinn.

Heres a list of taxi companies along with their daytime Car rental
base fares and per-kilometre rates. Night time metres ABC Rent
can run about 20% more. New car models and an easy online booking system.QI6,
Ltsa 8a (500m from Tallinn Airport), tel. (+372) 674
Elektritakso 77 81, www.abcrent.ee. Open 09.00 - 18.00. Closed Sat,
Brand-new fleet of electric taxis, environmentally Sun.
friendly and decent rates. 2.60 + 0.60/km.Qtel.
(+372) 57 49 57 49/1918, www.elektritakso.ee. Avis
QJ6, Tartu mnt. 101, Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 605 82
Peretakso 22, www.avis.ee. Open 08:30 - 20:00.
Only large taxis available, best for small groups. 4.80
+ 0.95/km.Qtel. (+372) 646 00 06/16111, www. Budget
peretakso.ee. QJ6, Tartu mnt. 101, Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 605 82
23, www.budget.ee. Open 08:30 - 20:00.
Reval Takso
2.29 + 0.49/km.Qtel. (+372) 601 46 00/1207, www. Europcar
reval-takso.ee. QJ6, Tartu mnt. 101, Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 605 80 31,
info@europcar.ee, www.europcar.ee. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Sbra Takso
2.50 + 0.50 - 0.55/km.Qtel. (+372) 621 50 80/1714, Sir Autorent
www.sobratakso.ee. QI3, Tatari 56, tel. (+372) 661 43 53/(+372) 56 51 353
(24hrs), www.sirrent.ee.
Takso24
2.90 + 0.58/km.Qtel. (+372) 640 89 27/1224, roadside assistance
www.takso24.eu.
Autoklubi Autoabi
Tallink Takso Unfortunately their website isnt in English, but weve
3.90 + 0.79 - 0.89/km.Qtel. (+372) 640 89 21/1921, been assured that if youre having car trouble theyll
www.tallinktakso.ee. be able to assist. 12 locations across Estonia also
means you probably wont have to wait too long for
Tulika Takso help.Qtel. (+372) 59 07 80 00, www.autoabi.com.
3.65 + 0.69 - 0.80/km, maxi taxi 5.50 + 1.10.Qtel. Open 24hrs.
(+372) 612 00 00/1200, www.tulika.ee.
Falck Autoabi
Vlk Takso By far the most full-service outfit in the country, they
Also using electric cars this one has slightly higher offer help in any kind of road emergency, all across
rates. 3.20 + 0.60 - 0.70/km.Qtel. 1917, www. Estonia.Qtel. (+372) 697 91 88, www.falck.ee. Open
valktakso.ee. 24hrs.

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 11


Arriving & Transport
airport Get the In Your Pocket
Lennart Meri - Tallinn Airport City Essentials app
Tallinns airport is a modern affair, but still so small theres
never a worry about getting lost. Officials still recom-
mend you arrive 2 hours before your flight though. A taxi Go Bus
ride from the centre roughly costs 10 and takes between Operating lines all over Estonia, these modern blue buses
10 and 20 minutes. You can also take bus N2 from the can take you to regional destinations such as Prnu, Hiiu-
A. Laikmaa stop on Laikmaa street, located between the maa, Saaremaa, Haapsalu, Rakvere, and various locations
Viru Shopping Centre and Tallink Hotel.QJ6, Tartu mnt. in Harjumaa. Buses leave from the central bus station.
101, tel. (+372) 605 88 88 (24hr flight info), fax (+372) See website for additional information.QLastekodu
605 84 33, info@tll.aero, www.tallinn-airport.ee. 46 (Tallinn Bus Station), tel. (+372) 680 09 00, www.
gobus.ee.
Nordica
Estonias new airline, Nordica, has replaced Estonian Lux Express
Air and currently operates several routes in Europe and Lux Express runs most international bus routes from
Scandinavia in cooperation with Adria Airways.QJ6, Estonia and also several domestic routes. Seats can be
Tartu mnt. 101, (at the Airport), tel. (+372) 664 22 reserved in advance by calling ahead. You can also buy
00, info@nagroup.ee, www.nordica.ee/en/. Open tickets from the website. Find the office on the bus sta-
05:00 - 21:00, Sat 05:00 - 16:00. tions first floor.QH5, Lastekodu 46, tel. (+372) 680 09
09, fax (+372) 680 09 01, www.luxexpress.eu. Open
07:30 - 19:00.
Buses
If youre travelling city-to-city in the Baltics or around Esto- SEBE
nia and you dont have your own car, the bus is definitely Sebe runs express buses to Tartu and also lines to Prnu,
the way to go. Its also a good way to meet local students. Narva, Valga, Kuressaare, Vru, Haapsalu. Discount tick-
Connections are frequent and cheap, allowing you to cross ets can be purchased online or from the electronic kiosk
the country for the same money you might spend on a taxi at the bus station. See website for prices and schedules.
in Tallinn. QLastekodu 46 (Tallinn Bus Station), tel. (+372) 680 09
00, www.sebe.ee.
Bus Station (Tallinna Bussijaam)
Tallinns small bus station has been recently renovated to
suit the modernity of its passengers. Tickets are available in- international bus
side the station or from the driver (let ticket-holders get on
the bus first). Ticket prices depend on the bus company and schedule
route. On international routes it is advisable to reserve or riga
buy your ticket in advance. On internal routes this is gener- 06:00, 06:30*, 07:00, 08:00*, 08:30, 09:30*, 10:00,
ally not necessary, however there are exceptions: On Fridays 11:15, 12:45, 13:00*, 14:45, 16:00, 17:00, 18:30, 19:00*,
and Sundays buses to popular weekend destinations like 22:00*, 22:30.
Prnu or Tartu tend to fill up quickly, so buying your ticket Bus ride takes 4 to 4,5 hours. Prices starting from 13.
earlier in the day will guarantee a spot. Get to the station by
taking city tram N4 from the centre, or bus N17 next to the st.petersburg
Solaris Centre, to the Bussijaam stop.QH5, Lastekodu 46, 06:00, 06:45*, 07:00, 08:00, 09:15*, 10:15, 11:30,
www.bussijaam.ee. Open 06:30 - 21:00. 13:45*, 14:30, 15:45, 21:30*, 23:00, 23:59.
Bus ride takes 6 to 7,5 hours. Express lines marked in
bold. Prices starting from 19.
Bus operators vilnius
Ecolines 06:00, 06:30*, 09:30*, 10:00, 11:15*, 12:45*, 13:00*,
A large bus company with routes throughout the Baltics, 16:15*, 17:00*, 22:00*, 22:30.
Europe and probably the best way to get to Riga from Tal- Bus ride takes 6 to 7,5 hours. Express lines marked in
linn - for the price. Ecolines is generally less expensive than bold. Prices starting from 15.
other transportation options or bus lines, without com- Lines operated by Lux Express. * Lines operated by
promising on comfort or quality. Conveniently you can Ecolines. Schedule valid as of September 08, 2016.
book and pay for tickets via the internet, this option also Please note that Tallinn In Your Pocket does not take
comes with a discount and you wont have to wait in line responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please
at the ticket office. See website for additional info.QH5, always check for the most current schedule with the
Tartu mnt. 68, tel. (+372) 606 22 17, www.ecolines.ee. service provider.
Open 06:30 - 21:00.
12 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Arriving & Transport
Ferries
The vast majority of visitors travelling onward from Tallinn
go by ship, and its no wonder - the city has excellent, af-
fordable ferry connections to Helsinki, Stockholm and Saint
Petersburg. On the Tallinn-Helsinki route, you have the
choice between large car ferries, which make the crossing
in about two hours, and fast ferries (hydrofoils and cata-
marans), which usually take only 1.5 hours, but are seasonal
and dont run in all weather conditions. Ferries leave from
various terminals of the citys two passenger harbours,
clustered just outside Old Town (see our map).

Passenger Port, Terminal A - D D-Terminal.QG4, Sadama 25, tel. (+372) 631 85 50, www.
Nearly all ferry companies use the Passenger Port, which portoftallinn.com. Information open in A-Terminal 06:00
is divided into terminals A through D. All Tallink ships use - 19:30, in D-Terminal 06:00 - 22:30, Sat 06:00 - 20:30.

ferries to helsinki

From Tallinn To Tallinn
Days Dep. Arrival Terminal Ship* Terminal Dep. Arrival Days
1234567 07:30 09:30 D Star/Superstar Lnsi 07:30 09:30 1234567
123456 08:00 09:40 Linnahall Lindaline Makasiini 10:00 11:40 1234567
1234567 08:00 10:30 A Viking XPRS Katanajokka 11:30 14:00 1234567
1234567 10:00 11:40 Linnahall Lindaline Makasiini 12:00 13:40 12367
1234567 10:30 12:30 D Star/Superstar Lnsi 10:30 12:30 1234567
12367 12:00 13:40 Linnahall Lindaline Makasiini 08:00 09:40 123456
1234567 12:00 14:30 A Finlandia Lnsi 08:30 11:00 1234567
1234567 12:30 16:00 D Baltic Queen Lnsi 18:30 22:00 1234567
1234567 13:30 15:30 D Star/Superstar Lnsi 13:30 15:30 1234567
1234567 16:00 17:40 Linnahall Lindaline Makasiini 18:00 19:40 1234567
1234567 16:30 18:30 D Star/Superstar Lnsi 16:30 18:30 1234567
7 16:30 19:00 A Viking XPRS Katanajokka 20:00 22:30 7
1234567 18:00 19:40 Linnahall Lindaline Makasiini 20:00 21:40 457
123456 18:00 20:30 A Viking XPRS Katanajokka 21:30 24:00 123456
1234567 18:45 21:15 A Finlandia Lnsi 15:30 17:45 1234567
123457 19:30 21:30 D Star/Superstar Lnsi 19:30 21:30 123457
457 20:00 21:40 Linnahall Lindaline Makasiini 16:00 17:40 1234567
6 20:30 22:30 D Star/Superstar Lnsi 20:30 22:30 6
123457 22:30 00:30 D Star/Superstar Lnsi 22:30 00:30 123457

* Ships are operated by the following companies: Star/Superstar, Baltic Queen, Silja Europa by Tallink; Viking XPRS by
Viking Line; Finlandia by Ecker Line. Turn to next page for details.
Schedule valid as of September 08 , 2016. Please note that Tallinn In Your Pocket does not take responsibility for
changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 13


Arriving & Transport
Ferry operators Trains
Ecker Line Train travel in Estonia hasnt gained the popularity it has else-
Large car ferry Finlandia. Adult single tickets starting at where in Europe.The only real international connections are
19.QG4, Terminal A, Passenger Port, tel. (+372) 664 to point east (Moscow, St.Petersburg and beyond). Although
60 06, www.eckeroline.ee. Open 09:00 - 18:45, Reserva plans are under way, forget about taking the train to Riga or
tions and information by phone 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun Vilnius. It is, however, possible to get to Tartu and other Es-
09:00 - 17:30. tonian cities by rail. Two separate companies cover Estonias
train system: GoRail handles international, Elron operates the
Lindaline local electric trains and the inter-city diesel trains.
Lindalines seasonal hydrofoil ferries leave from Linnahall
Terminal. Adult single tickets starting from 19 up to 34, Train Station (Balti Jaam)
depending on class, hour and day of departure.QF4, Located just outside Old Town, Tallinns revamped train
Mere pst. 20 E, tel. (+372) 699 93 31, www.lindaline.ee. station boasts a trendy caf, fountain, a day spa and a small
grocery store, but unfortunately has little information posted
St. Peterline in English. Luckily, the system is not too confusing and there
Although it only leaves every four days, now you can head are information and ticket booths (open 07:00 - 21:30). For all
to St Petersburg via ship without having to stop first in domestic routes, you dont even have to bother with this pro-
Stockholm. The round trip which includes two nights on cess since the same tickets can always be purchased right on
board and a day in St Petersburg can even be completed board the trains themselves - as long as you know which track
visa-free where applicable. Adult single tickets starting your train will leave from. Tickets for trains to Russia are sold
from 25. See website or contact agent for full details. at the ticket booths on the 2nd floor, which are open daily
QG4, Terminal A, Passenger Port, tel. (+372) 666 08 08:30 - 19:00.QB1, Toompuiestee 37, www.baltijaam.ee.
00, www.stpeterline.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat.
Train operators
Tallink Elron
Large and fast car ferries. Adult single tickets start from Now fully outfitted with modern trains, they operate the
19. To Stockholm from 68.QG4, Laikmaa 5, tel. (+372) commuter, electric train routes to such places as Paldiski,
640 98 08, www.tallink.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Aegviidu and Riisipere. Tickets can be purchased online or
Sat, Sun, Also at: H-4, Gonsiori 2. Open 09:00 - 21:00, on the train (cash only). Elron also services the longer dis-
Sat - Sun 10:00 - 19:00. tance Tartu, Valga, Prnu, Viljandi, Rakvere and Narva lines,
with brand-new Stadler diesel trains. On these routes you
Viking Line can pay by cash or card on the train. See website for sched-
Large car ferry Viking XPRS. Adult single tickets from ules, prices and booking or call the 24-hour infoline.Qtel.
24.QG4, Hobujaama 4, tel. (+372) 666 39 66, www. (+372) 616 02 45, www.elron.ee.
vikingline.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun, Also
at: G-4, Terminal A, Passenger Port. Open 06:30 - GoRail
18:00, Sun 06:30 - 16:30. After a short hiatus, the trains to and from Russia are now
again running. Currently the route travels from Tallinn to
St Petersburg and then on to Moscow. Now operated by
a Russian company, Gorail services the Estonian side of
things, offering tickets and information for those wishing
to make the journey to Russia. See website for full price list,
schedules and visa requirements if applicable. Gorail info
and ticket office are open at Balti Jaam train station 08:30 -
19:00.Qtel. (+372) 631 00 44, www.gorail.ee.

trains to st.petersburg and moscow


FROM TALLINN TO TALLINN
Days Departure Arrival Destination Departure Arrival Days Price
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:09 09:40* Moscow 23:10* 13:38 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 from 52
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:09 23:54* St.Petersburg 06:29* 13:38 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 from 23
*Moscow time.
Schedule valid as of September 08, 2016. Please note that Tallinn In Your Pocket does not take responsibility for
changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.

14 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com


Mr.&Mrs.
VIP
Culture & Events
While Tallinn may not be a cultural metropolis like London, her 15-year career and sold over 14 million copies. She has
Paris or New York, people here do still like to feed their souls. had the pleasure of collaborating with top musicians like
The town is home to a number of theatres, an opera house, James Brown, Stevie Wonder, Blondie, Ringo Starr, and
several interesting museums, galleries, and even a couple Robbie Williams. The Tallinn show promises to be full of
art-house cinemas. If you are still thirsting for more, an ex- fun and energy, where Stone has set a special requirement
haustive calendar of culture is available at www.culture.ee. to remove the first rows of seats for a dance area.

JJ-Street Baltic Session 2016


main events October 17 - 23, Nordea Concert Hall (p.20) and various
venues throughout Tallinn, www.piletilevi.ee, www.
Tallinn International Horse Show 2016 balticsession.com. Who said the art of breakdancing
October 7 - 9, Saku was dead? This festival features performers from around
Suurhall (p.20), www. the world and is devoted to street culture. Breakdancing
tallinnhorseshow.ee. battles, workshops, fantastic beats, great parties, an urban
Hi-yo Silver, away! Cel- flea market and a great opportunity to witness what the
ebrating its fourteenth scene is all about await all those who attend. So get your
year, the Tallinn Interna- break-on and feel the energy.
tional Horse Show is set
to be an equestrian ex- Tallinn Fashion Week 2016
perience extraordinaire. October 19 - 22, Kultuurikatel
Horses and riders from all over Europe will try to jump and (p.18), www.estonianfashion.
trot their way to a hoofed victory in this Central European eu. Held in autumn, the last of the
League World Cup event. This hoofed extravaganza has years large fashion events to take
become a must-see for the whole family. place in Tallinn is aptly named Tal-
linn Fashion Week. Started almost
FIFA World Cup qualifying games a decade ago, its aim is to bring Es-
October 7 and 10 at 21:45, A. le Coq Arena (p.20), www. tonian designers into the spotlight
piletilevi.ee. Two FIFA World Cup qualifiers will take place both at home and to international
in Tallinn when Estonia goes against Gibraltar (7 October) audiences - the focus here is not so
and Greece (10 October). While Estonia has never qualified much to showcase new collections
for the World Cup, come and cheer them on anyway. Who according to seasons, as Fashion Weeks do in the larger
knows, this could be their year... markets, but to highlight the creativity that this country is
producing. As time goes on, perhaps this event will evolve
Starlight Cabaret: Forever Young into something bigger with international buyers in the au-
October 8 - January 28, 2017, Every Fri and Sat at 19:00, dience. Estonian designers are certainly talented enough.
Original Sokos Hotel Viru Restaurant Merineitsi (C4, Viru
vljak 4), www.piletilevi.ee. Dedicated to the 100th anni- Jean-Michel Jarre
versary of the Republic of Estonia, this revue performance November 2, Saku Suurhall (p.20), www.piletilevi.ee.
tells a passionate, yet witty story about love and freedom, Jean-Michel Jarre, the Godfather of Electronic Music is back
independence and stubbornness. Starlight Cabaret will be with a spectacular show for the first time in six years. Hes
on stage with vocal soloists Irina Haak, Nele-Liis Vaiksoo and known for his staggering visuals, use of leading edge digital
Kalle Sepp or Bert Pringi for a three-part revue performance technology and this Tallinn performance is no exception.
that provides an array of acts from ballet and hip-hop, to The Electronica European Tour will promote the release of
polka and rock along with duets and classic line-ups. Enjoy his latest record Electronica Vol. 2: The Heart of Noise.
a locally-inspired three-course la carte dinner (included in
the price) with an evening of unforgettable cabaret. St. Martins Day Fair 2016
November 10 - 13, Saku
Joss Stone Total World Tour Suurhall (p.20), www.
October 11, Nordea Concert folkart.ee. In honour of St.
Hall (p.20), www.piletilevi.ee. Martins Day, the Estonian
Joss Stone gets her inspiration Folkart and Handicraft
from world music. The Grammy Union organises this fair in-
Award-winning singer will take to volving workshops, handi-
the stage at the Nordea Concert craft sales, national cuisine, folk music, Mardi costumes
Hall on 11 October. The concert is and the general promotion of the folk lifestyle. A perfect
part of Stones Total World Tour place to load up on gifts for... yeah thats right, Christmas.
where the artist plans to visit all of But personally we like it best for the homebrewed beer,
the countries of the world and learn about local music. dark bread slathered with butter and the smoked meat...
Stone has released six studio albums over the course of mmmm.
16 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
20th Black Nights Film Festival PFF
November 11 - 27, various venues throughout Tallinn, where to get tickets
www.poff.ee. Now in its 20th year, PFF is one of the largest
and most prestigious film festivals to be held in the Nordic na- Tickets to most major events are available from:
tions and also the only one in the region with an international Piletilevi C-4, Viru Centre, Viru vljak 4/6, tel. 610
film competition programme recognised by FIAPF (Fdra- 14 44, www.piletilevi.ee. Also at: D/E-3/4, Solaris
tion Internationale des Associations de Producteurs de Films), Centre, Estonia pst. 9. Estonias major concert or-
only 14 film festivals in the world can boast this kind of rec- ganiser, Eesti Kontsert, has its own box office in
ognition. The festival itself consists of many different events, Tallinn at E-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. 614 77 00, info@
among them are 3 sub-festivals - Animated Dreams, Just Film, concert.ee, www.concert.ee.
Sleepwalkers and the international film industry components.
The importance of PFF brings films and film-makers from
more than 70 countries to Tallinn. In addition to the films there Major art museums
are some cinematic special events such as concerts, exhibi- Kadriorg Palace - Art Museum
tions as well as interesting lectures. You could easily say that Peter the Greats spectacular
Northern Baroque palace is a work of art in and of itself,
Tallinn Piano Festival 2016 but the palace is also home to Estonias museum of for-
November 14 - 12, Estonia Concert Hall (p.20), www. eign art. Paintings by 16th - 18th-century Dutch, German,
concert.ee. Its all about the piano, dude! Even if you Italian and masters, as well as 18th - 19th-century Russian
havent heard of most of them, or have difficulty pro- works make up most of whats on display. Intriguing ex-
nouncing their names - performances by some of the amples of sculpture, porcelain and glass can also be found
worlds greats will be held at this festival dedicated to all here. Through January 8, 2017: With a Burin, a Brush and
things piano. Itll be quite a site to watch the maestros a Pencil. Russian Graphic Art from the 19th - 20th Cen-
deftly slide their long fingers over the ivories, and dont turies in Estonian Museums.QG5, Weizenbergi 37, tel.
forget to pay attention to their feet Mario Andretti cant (+372) 606 64 00, www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Open
even compete with their pedal skills. Seriously though, if 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Ad
piano music is your thing this should truly be a great event. mission 5.50. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel
See website for list of performers and schedule. Museum) 6.50.

folk holidays in autumn Kumu


Winning the title European Museum of the Year 2008 ,
All Souls Day Estonias largest art museum makes its home in this enor-
November 02. Estonians dont traditionally celebrate mous, cutting-edge facility built into a limestone cliff in
Halloween, but they do have a day to honour their Kadriorg. It serves as both a national gallery, displaying
dead. All Souls Day (Hingedepev) is a solemn, priva- treasured works from Estonias past, and as a contempo-
te affair in which the dead are honoured by placing rary art gallery, showing the latest trends. While here, be
candles in windows or on graves. Indeed any ceme- sure to explore the fascinating complex, built by Finnish
tery visited on that night will be filled with the eerily architect Pekka Vapaavuori. Through October 30: Poetry
beautiful glow of flickering flames. and Spleen. The Victorian Female Image and Fashion from
Alexandre Vassilievs Collection. Through October 30:
St. Martins Day (Mardipev) Mare Balticum. An artistic exploration of the underwater
November 10. One of soundscape of the Baltic Sea. Through November 6: Mar-
the most important cel Lefrancq and Belgian Surrealist Photography.QG6,
holidays in the rural Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tel. (+372) 602 60 00, www.
calendar, St. Martins kumu.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed
Day traditionally marks Mon, Tue. Admission 6.
the end of the autumn
season and is basically Tallinn Art Hall & Gallery
the Estonian version of Drop into this imposing 1930s-era building on Vabaduse
Thanksgiving. On the square to find some of the most daring and avant-garde
previous evening young folks put on costumes and go temporary exhibitions from Estonia and abroad. The Art
door to door, performing and begging for treats. Halls separate, smaller gallery (where admission is free)
next door at Vabaduse vljak 6 hosts separate exhibitions.
St. Catherines Day (Kadripev) Through October 9: Silence, Darkness. Through October
November 25. The female version of Mardipev and 9: Tanel Veenre. Dried, Dehydrated, Dessicated. October
also features similar activities. Instead of animal masks 21 - December 4: Random Rapid Heartbeats. Curator Ks-
however, revellers of both genders dress as women. tutis Kuizinas (LT). QD2, Vabaduse vljak 8, tel. (+372)
Dont ask, dont tell. All in all just good old-fashioned fun. 644 28 18, www.kunstihoone.ee. Open 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.50.
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 17
Culture & Events
Art galleries & museums
There are loads of little galleries and culturally-oriented
museums in Tallinn, here we have listed some of the more
important and centrally-located ones.

Adamson-Eric Museum
The permanent collection of works by the world-re-
nowned artist Adamson-Eric (1902 - 1968) is housed in a
16th-century in Old Town. Affiliated with The Art Museum
of Estonia. Through January, 2017: Juhan Kuus. The Mea-
sure of Humanity. 45 Years of Documentary Photography
in South Africa.QC1/2, Lhike jalg 3, tel. (+372) 644 58
35, www.adamson-eric.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 3.50.

Applied Art Museum Infinite Lives. Curators Camille Laurelli (FR / EE) and Nicolas
Works of Estonian applied art and intriguing temporary Audureau (FR/RU). October 21 - December 4: Random
exhibitions are set off by irregular white walls. Through Rapid Heartbeats. Curator Kstutis Kuizinas (LT).QD2,
November 6: Vicious Circle. October 8 - January 8, 2017: Harju 13, tel. (+372) 644 28 18, www.kunstihoone.ee.
Classics. Ivi Laas.QB2, Lai 17, tel. (+372) 627 46 00/(+372) Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Free admission.
627 46 11, www.etdm.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 4. Contemporary Art Museum of Estonia
Not all modern art is contemporary and contemporary art
City Gallery is not all modern - or something like that. Fed up with the
A rapidly changing rotation of contemporary, and often fact that the Estonian caretakers of culture ie. The Ministry
boldly experimental, art exhibitions. Through October 16: of Culture refuses to see these differences and also refuses
to see that these separate forms of art should have their
own separate venues, a group of rebellious artists took
cultural centres over an abandoned building and decided to evangelise
contemporary art to those that might listen - or watch, as
Kultuurikatel is often the case with art. Have a look for yourself to see if
Located right next to the Fish Market harbour in a any of this actually makes sense. September 22 - October
host of renovated industrial buildings and just a short 30: PSEUDO. November 11 - December 11: Paul Kuimet.
hop across the street from Old Town - this, primar- QG3, Phja pst. 35, www.ekkm.ee. Open 12:00 - 19:00.
ily seasonal, cultural area has lots to offer the visitor Closed Mon, Open from April through November. Free
who is looking for something a little different. From admission.
concerts to workshops, film nights, theatrical perfor-
mances, fashion shows, various art exhibitions, special Design & Architecture Gallery
events and even the occasional flea market - the op- Changing exhibition of Estonian product design.QD3,
portunities here are endless. The Tallinn Creative Hub Prnu mnt. 6, tel. (+372) 627 36 30. Open 12:00 - 18:00.
Garden PADA is open in summer and hosts a number Closed Sun. Free admission.
of alternative events throughout the season. Entrance
to the garden and caf from Kalasadama 6. The open- Draakoni Gallery
ing hours vary widely so check the website and their The famous Dragon gallery holds small, often strange
Facebook page for details about current happenings. exhibitions in its quaint, Old Town shop. October 9 - 28:
QA3, Phja pst. 27a, tel. (+372) 56 20 11 15, www. Varvara & Mar. October 30 - November 18: Mall Paris. No
kultuurikatel.ee. vember 20 - December 16: Mari Prekup, Hannah Harkes.
QC2, Pikk 18, tel. (+372) 646 41 10, www.eaa.ee/
The Solaris Centre draakon/. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed
Rising out of the ashes from a former soviet landmark, Sun. Free admission.
this all-in-one entertainment complex comes com-
plete with a state of the art cinema, concert hall, shop- Haus Gallery
ping and dining facilities. Solaris even sports a decent A commercial gallery, Haus is also open to the public and
amount of plant life, in fact the only thing it doesnt has an active exhibition schedule. Through October 20:
have is a hotel and if it did there would be really no rea- Tarrvi Laamann, October 26 - November 30: Ivika Luisk.
son to leave.QD/E3/4, Estonia pst. 9, tel. (372) 615 QB3, Uus 17, tel. (+372) 641 94 71/(+372) 641 10 76,
51 00, www.solaris.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. www.haus.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. Free admission. Buzz to enter.
18 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
Hobusepea Gallery Russian Museum
The Estonian Artists Union operates this cosy, two-storey This small museum on Pikk street is dedicated to Russian
gallery. October 12 - 31: Jass Kaselaan. November 2 - 21: culture in Estonia. They usually feature a different Rus-
Kristi Kongi. November 23 - December 12: Paul Rodgers. sian-Estonian artist every few months or a Russian artist
QB/C2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 627 67 77, www.eaa. who spent part of their life in Estonia. During the Tsarist era
ee/hobusepea. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Free many famous Russian painters, artists and writers spent
admission. time in Estonia from Pushkin to Dostoyevsky - the list is
large. This small museum is not exactly English friendly
Kullo Childrens Gallery but if you are fascinated by Russian culture and how its
Located in a fascinating medieval dwelling house, Kullo influenced Estonia, the 30 English-language guided tour
hosts workshops for children and highlights works by might be worth it.QB2/3, Pikk 29a, tel. (+372) 608 00
the coming generation of Estonian artists.QC2, Kun 16, www.linnamuuseum.ee/vemu/. Open 10:30 - 18:00.
inga 6, tel. (+372) 644 68 73, www.kullo.ee/Kullo_ Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission 3.
Lastegalerii. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission 2. Tauno Kangro Gallery
Although technically a commercial gallery, visitors are al-
Mikkel Museum ways welcome to just come by and browse through one
Housed in the renovated kitchen building on the grounds of Estonias top, and certainly most recognised, sculptors.
of Kadriorg Palace and Park, the Mikkel Museum has one of He sculpts using a variety of materials and the sizes range
Estonias most impressive private art collections. Johannes from hand-held - all the way up to massive monuments
Mikkel donated his vast collection of European, Russian that are most impressive to say the least. His subject mat-
and Chinese paintings, prints, porcelain and icons to the ter is also varied, but his love for the beauty of the female
Estonian Art Museum in 1994. October 14 - March 2017: form is certainly noticeable while taking a walk through
Might and Pain. Works from Margus Punabs Collection. this gallery. His pastels are also fantastic and certainly af-
QG5, Weizenbergi 28 (Kadriorg Palace), tel. (+372) 601 fordable.QB3, Uus 20-1, tel. (+372) 641 10 02, www.
58 44, www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00, skulptuuristuudio.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.50. Sun. Usually open between working hours from Monday
Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) through Friday, but call ahead just to make sure someone
6.50. is around to let you in.

Museum of Estonian Architecture


Tallinns architecture museum is located in the port area
whats in a name?
and housed in the restored Rotermann Salt Storage build- The evolution of the name Tallinn is a confusing
ing, itself an architectural curiosity. The permanent exhibit one. Tallinns first world map appearance was in
on the main floor features architectural models from the 1154 when Arabian geographer Abu Abdallah
museums collection. Through the end of 2017: SPACE Muhammad al-Idrisi called it Qaleveni. In ancient
IN MOTION: A Century of Estonian Architecture. The ex- Russian chronicles the same name appears as
hibition, acquaints visitors with the development of pro- Kolvan, supposedly from the word kaleva or kalva
fessional Estonian spatial and architectural culture. It en- which means something solid or strong. In the
compasses the most important segments of 20th century first half of the 13th century Henric the Lett called
Estonian architectural history, as well as the more intrigu- Tallinn Lyndanise in his Livonian Chronicle. Soon
ing aspects of contemporary design. Through October afterwards the more commonly known German
30: Peter Skubic. Mirrors are invisible.QB4, Ahtri 2, tel. name, Reval. The actual name Tallinn is from the
(+372) 625 70 00, www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. Open Danish period (1219-1346). In 1219 the Danish King
11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Waldemar II conquered northern Estonia and built
Admission to full house 4. his own stone fortress at Toompea. The Danes then
referred to Tallinn as Castrum Danorum, which ba-
Niguliste Museum sically means Danish castle. Translated into Estonian
This 13th century Gothic church, now an affiliate of the it became tannin lidna or Taanilinn. Abbreviate this
Estonian Art Museum, houses a fascinating collection and its easy to see how you get Tallinn. Even after
of medieval art, with altars from the 15th and 16th the Danes left, many Estonians continued to use the
centuries and a collection of Baroque and Renaissance name Tallinn while almost everyone else preferred
chandeliers. Not to be missed is the famous fragment Reval. It was only in 1918 after independence from
of Bernt Notkes 15th-century masterpiece, Dance Ma- Russia that Reval was totally dropped. For a while
cabre. Organ concerts Sat, Sun 16:00. Through Decem both Tallinn and Tallinna were then used. In 1925
ber 31: Rode Altarpiece in Close-up.QC/D2, Niguliste Tallinna was declared official, but soon after Estonia
3, tel. (+372) 644 99 03/(+372) 53 43 10 52, www. changed its mind and in 1933 Tallinn became the
nigulistemuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed final name for the capital city.
Mon, Tue. Admission 5.
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 19
Culture & Events
Cinemas
Tallinns cinemas are fairly central, and all films except
kids films are shown in their original language with
Estonian subtitles. You can always find out whats
playing by calling the 1182 infoline. Operators speak
English.

Apollo Kino
Located in the Solaris Centre, this is the most state of
the art cinema in Tallinn. Tickets for evening shows
cost 5.99 - 7.29, 3D costs 7.69 - 8.59.QD/E3/4, Es
tonia pst. 9, www.apollokino.ee.

Artis
Tallinns two-theatre, art-house cinema has a full
schedule of independent films, Estonian productions,
shorts and kids films. Tickets cost 5 - 6.80, 3D costs
5.60 - 8.30.QD/E3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre),
tel. (+372) 663 13 80, www.kino.ee.

Coca-Cola Plaza
This high-tech, 11-screen super cinema is most
peoples first stop for Hollywood blockbusters. Now
even featuring a 3D theatre. Tickets for evening shows
Concert halls cost 6.10 - 7.30, 3D costs 7.70 - 8.60.QG4, Hobu
Estonia Concert Hall jaama 5, www.forumcinemas.ee.
The premier venue for classical music and the home of na-
tional concert organiser Eesti Kontsert.QD3, Estonia pst. Kosmos
4, tel. (+372) 614 77 60, www.concert.ee. Open 12:00 During the Soviet-era, Kosmos was the most advanced
- 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00, On Sundays open one hour cinema in the Baltics - now housing the first IMAX cin-
before scheduled concerts. ema in the region it can claim this title once again.
Three theatres are housed here - the largest of which
Estonian National Opera can hold up to 322 viewers and screens IMAX movies
Tallinns pride and joy hosts opera, ballet and frequent only. Regular and 3D films are also shown in the other
performances by internationally-renowned guests. Tick- halls. Tickets cost 5.70 - 8.80, IMAX 7.50 - 11.90. See
ets cost up to 31.QD3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. (+372) 683 website for programme details.QH2, Prnu mnt. 45,
12 10/(+372) 683 12 15, www.opera.ee. Box office open www.kinokosmos.ee.
11:00 - 19:00.
Sprus
House of the Brotherhood of the Black Now operating on a regular basis, this is the kind
Heads of place cinemaphiles hang out at. These art
This ornate 15th-century guild hall hosts the occasional house films are often European or Estonian pro-
classical music concerts.QB3, Pikk 26, tel. (+372) 631 ductions, but be warned - you may not be able
31 99, www.mustpeademaja.ee. Box office open one to see them with English subtitles. Truly for the
hour before performance. more hard core among cinema viewers. See web-
site for schedule. Ticket booth opens one hour
Nordea Concert Hall before seance - not really sure what that means,
Tallinn now has a world-class concert hall, complete but Bela Lugosi might also be in attendance. Tick-
with a stunning sound system and high-tech gadgetry. ets cost 3 - 6.QD2, Vana-Posti 8, tel. (+372)
QD/E3/4, Estonia pst. 9, tel. (+372) 615 51 11, www. 644 19 19, kinosoprus.ee.
tallinnconcerthall.com.

Saku Suurhall
Famous as the venue for the 47th Eurovision Song Con- Get the In Your Pocket
test in 2002, this 7000-seat sports and concert arena hosts
large concerts and major sporting events.QK7, Paldiski City Essentials app
mnt. 104b, tel. (+372) 660 02 00, www.sakusuurhall.ee.
20 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Kalamaja - Tallinns artistic district
Although there are places to eat and shop scattered
throughout the district, the epicentre of the whole Kalamaja
frenzy, including shops, boutiques, handi-crafters, a large
flea market, eateries and much of the nightlife scene, seems
to be headquartered in and around the old Telliskivi factory
and warehouse complex - Telliskivi Loomelinnak (Telliskivi
Creative City). This is probably your best place to start when
visiting the district and its easily reachable, just around the
corner from the far end of the Balti Jaam Market.

Where to eat
Located just a short hop from the Balti jaam train station Kalamaja has seen a boom in the number of restaurants
(G-3) lies the eclectic and historic district of Kalamaja. The in recent years. Here youll find everything from French to
areas name means Fish House and many street names Mexican to modern Estonian bistros. You can also snack
here betray Kalamajas fishing-, sea- and industry-related your way through some of Tallinns finest street food, loc-
roots: Kie (Rope), Kalaranna (Fish Beach) and Telliskivi ated in front of Depoo Market, the temporary home of the
(Brick). Travel a little beyond the Kalamaja area and youll Balti Jaam Market. Read more about street food in Tallinn
run into the more industrial district of Kopli which, as of on page 44. Please refer to the Restaurants section for the
yet, has little to offer sightseers except perhaps some inter- explanation of the symbols.
esting crumbling architecture. Both regions, often lumped
together as one, are within walking distance or a short tram Apelsini Raudtee
or bicycle ride from Old Town. Located just next to the far end of the Balti Jaam mar-
ket in a renovated railway workers club building - this
One of Tallinns last remaining wooden house and anti eatery is more of a caf than a restaurant. We found
quated industrial districts has seen somewhat of a trendy the menu to be slightly less than spectacular, but the
revival as of late, akin to what happened in the Soho dis- prices are quite reasonable and the cuisine decently
tricts of New York or London, albeit on a smaller scale. The prepared. They also offer breakfast on weekends and
revival, as with most cases in developed cities of the world, an affordable daily lunch menu during the week.QG3,
happened thanks to inexpensive real estate prices and the Kopli 3, tel. (+372) 53 33 29 41, www.apelsiniraudtee.
historic/industrial surroundings. First, the hippies, bohemi- ee/. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 -
ans, artists and students set up shop and residence here. 22:00. . S W
Now it seems that everyone wants a piece of the action
and as a result real estate prices have gone through the roof Fabrik
over the last few years. What was once home to fishermen, The Factory is a nice spot for enjoying fine cuisine with-
sailors, dock-workers, shipbuilders and factory employees out paying fine prices. The dishes are all delightfully pre-
now houses boutiques, some great flea markets, high-brow pared from primarily local and seasonal ingredients and
eateries and a few cool nightspots for Tallinns hipsters and the presentation - a feast for the eyes. This restaurant is
trend setters. There are in fact still quite a few industrial also a caf where some pretty excellent cakes and pastries
complexes and sea-oriented businesses operating in the can be enjoyed as well. Just one caveat before you make
area due to the proximity of the harbours and rail-lines that the journey out - the kitchen is closed on Mondays and
still skirt these districts. Sundays and also between 3pm until 5pm other days,
during those times their desserts, coffee and hand-crafted
Besides being home to some architectural and often cocktails will need to suffice.QG3, Vabriku 6, tel. (+372)
derelict delights, Kalamaja has some interesting sights 644 57 43, www.fabrik.ee. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Mon
from the fascinating one-time fortress Patarei Prison (F- 07:30 - 19:00, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun
3, Kalaranna 2), the now world-famous Estonia Piano 09:00 - 18:00. . T6LSW
Factory (F-3, Kungla 41), the 1928 Jugenstil Kalma Sauna
(A-1, Vana-Kalamaja 9a) and Kalmistu Park (F-3), formerly F-Hoone
home to Tallinns oldest cemetery, which was unfortunately Located in the Telliskivi industrial/warehouse complex and
flattened by the Soviets in 1964 to make way for military one of the first eateries to set up shop here, F-Hoone is one
complexes. Clues to the parks original purpose exist only of those success stories that every wannabe restaurateur
in the form of a plaque and a bell tower from the year 1780. dreams of and we rather enjoy it. The food is fresh and usu-
In terms of dining or shopping, one might expect that such ally quite inspired. The atmosphere is certainly industrial and
an up-and-coming area would be on the pricey side - its chic, the service attentive and the prices are surprisingly low
not. Although quite trendy at the moment, most of the for the quality and portion size - especially the daily offers.
establishments in Kalamaja are much less expensive than Child-friendly with a decent little play area as well.QG3,
those located in Old Town. Hopefully it will stay that way, at Telliskivi 60a, tel. (+372) 53 22 68 55, www.fhoone.ee.
least for a little while. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. . TW
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 21
Kalamaja - Tallinns artistic district
boheem caf & pizzeria street food
Boheem Earlier this year
One of the first of a whole line of trendy eateries in the the market
area, this bohemian and rather inexpensive caf, serves (now known as
up some hearty breakfast choices, delightful crepes, sal- Depoo) by Balti
ads and delicious desserts along with all your favourite jaam train sta-
caffeinated beverages. Its even bohemianly located be- tion moved to
hind the Balti Jaama market, a great choice after youve its new location
done some treasure hunting there. Certainly not a fast in Telliskivi. Since then, a few great little restaurants
food spot - Boheem is the kind of place for lingering and takeaways have opened outside. Weve listed a
rather than a quick bite. Conveniently located just next few to get you started. QG-3, Telliskivi 62.
door, they also run an artsy pizzeria where they offer up
decent Italian-style pizza at an affordable price.QG3, Konteiner
Kopli 18, tel. (+372) 631 19 28, www.boheem.ee. Open Named after the shipping container its located in,
09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. . 6SW Konteiner serves up Vietnamese food to eat-in or take-
away. With ample seating both indoors and out, this
is a great stop for a chilli fix, as many of their dishes
pack some heat. We particularly enjoyed the red curry
with prawns or chicken, as well as the Pho Xao Chay
(wok-fried noodles with tofu and mushrooms).QG3,
Telliskivi 62, tel. (+372) 54 00 46 22, www.konteiner.
ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . S

TSUH-TSUH
Tsuh-Tsuh, like the sound a train makes, is another
Frenchy welcome addition to the growing street food scene in
This eatery is indeed trs French and actually quite stylish, Tallinn. While the menu is short, what they do, they
as well as being an affordable option for a delicious and do well. We particularly liked the kebab (in their own
delightfully prepared meal. The menu changes somewhat special marinade), but you cannot go wrong with their
frequently, but in general the classics always remain. The beetroot falafel if you are looking for new exciting
French onion soup was particularly tasty as were the Pari- tastes.QG3, Telliskivi 62, tel. (+372) 58 96 16 68.
sian gnocchi in an excellent mushroom cream sauce. Nat- Open 11:00 - 21:00. . S
urally the French wines, beers and ciders are all quite well
chosen, in fact the only thing we found to be missing were
escargot and something containing truffles - which we as- Kivi Paber Krid
sume is a seasonal thing.QG3, Telliskivi 60A (Telliskivi Rock, Paper, Scissors despite having a quirky name, or
Creative City B building), tel. (+372) 56 04 82 62. Open perhaps because of it, is a multi-purpose joint which
12:00 - 23:30, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. offers up some decent eats alongside some excellent
Closed Sun. . 6SW beverages - including a great selection of craft beers
and ciders. Housed in a former industrial building, the
Kalamaja Bakery style and atmosphere are hip and the staff friendly and
This quaint little bakery, located on the aptly named flour helpful. The menu is 100% gluten-free and they offer a
street kind of doubles as a small caf as well. Their good large selection of vegetarian, lactose and casein-free
are so sought after that theres often a line-up in the morn- items as well. Were pretty sure that much of the beer
ing hours to grab some fresh pastries to take with to work. isnt gluten-free though - so best stick to the ciders and
One can certainly eat-in as well though and also grab a cocktails if that happens to be an issue for you. Live music
glass of wine or sip on some spirits if the mood moves you. and events are also hosted here many weekend nights.
They offer a wide variety of savoury and sweet pastries, QG3, Telliskivi 60A, building C4 (Telliskivi Creative
but their cakes are splendid.QF3, Jahu 11, tel. (+372) 56 City), tel. (+372) 600 36 26, www.kivipaber.ee. Open
83 13 99, www.pagarikoda.ee. Open 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. .
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. . S T 6 U L E S W

Kolm Sibulat
Get the In Your Pocket Brought to you by the same people over at popular Koh-
vik Moon, this Kalamaja eatery located at the corner of
City Essentials app Telliskivi and Paldiski road, is pretty much as far as youd
want to go from Old Town ... perhaps even a little further.
22 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Kalamaja - Tallinns artistic district
KOPLI 25
Tallinn

Sun - Mon
11:00-20:00

Tue - Thu
11:00-22:00

Fri - Sat
11:00-24:00

Tel. (+372) 677 5262

The reason why we are listing the Three Onions at all La Tabla
is because, quite simply - it has a great atmosphere, For a unique Latin restaurant, of which there are very few
excellent food and a waiting list to get in. Before mak- in Tallinn, La Tabla is certainly worth a visit. The tortillas
ing the trek out here, be sure to call ahead for a reser- (both corn and wheat) are hand-made, the cuisine a fu-
vation.QH2, Telliskivi 2, tel. (+372) 664 40 55, www. sion of various Central and South American traditions and
kolmsibulat.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. the atmosphere is both colourful and cosy. Locals typically
. T6 LW dont like things as caliente as those more familiar with
this style of eatery, so if you want to spice it up a bit or
Kopli Restoran have a special request - feel free to ask. Our quesadillas
This cool and stylish locale right in the edge of Kalamaja, and tacos were superb.QG3, Telliskivi 60, tel. (+372) 51
technically Kopli hence the name, serves up some tasty 94 33 27, www.latabla.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00
fresh food, excellent drinks and features a great atmo- - 21:00. . T6ULW
sphere both for chilling or dining with friends. The space
is also much more than an eatery - here you can also Lendav Taldrik
purchase retro furnishings, enjoy live music some nights Located in the black building towards the end of the Tel-
or attend one of their many events. Its also quite easy to liskivi Complex, the Flying Saucer or Plate, depending on
get to - just hop on the number 52 bus (Kopli direction) how you choose to interpret it, is certainly a welcome edi-
from the Mere pst. stop and get off at Angerja stop.QF2, tion to the area. The interior style is quite excellent - with
Kopli 25, tel. (+372) 677 52 62, www.koplirestoran.ee. its rugged good looks, industrial sensibility and just the
Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 right amount of comfort, guests here will feel both stylish
- 24:00. . T6LSW and at home. The cuisine is kind of an Asian-fusion blend,
with definite Indian leanings, and all is certainly tasty to say
Korsten Armastus & Hea Toit the least. Decent vegetarian options also available. Fast,
Named after the the large (non-functioning) smoke stack friendly service is just a mango on the lassi - so to speak.
beside the restaurant, Korsten is one of the best meals QG3, Telliskivi 60A (Telliskivi Creative City E building),
weve had in a long time. Its the combination of friendly tel. (+372) 621 42 22, www.lendavtaldrik.com. Open
and experienced service, an Italian-inspired menu by a 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . 6VSW
passionate young chef, reasonable prices, and a funky
atmosphere that made this an all around great experi- Trhvel
ence. Tip: try the crispy calamari with aioli.QG3, Phja This stylish Mediterranean-style restaurant located in
pst. 27a, tel. (+372) 511 78 11, www.carmengrupp.ee/ the large, orange building in Telliskivi is not overall a
korstenresto. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . bad choice for a bite to eat or a glass of wine. The cui-
sine is quite well prepared, with a certain twist to keep
Kukeke things interesting. Our experience here was quite good,
The cuisine here is overseen by one of Estonias most fa- the only complaints being slightly inattentive service
mous culinary aficionados Anni Arro. Trained in Italy, she and only one of the staff spoke decent English when we
has written several cook-books and her passion for quality last visited.QG3, Telliskivi 60, tel. (+372) 650 10 20,
food certainly comes through in her recipes. Given that www.truhvel.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. .
shes equally talented at creating delicious desserts, a meal 6 U S W
had in the charming yet industrial atmosphere at Kukeke
will certainly be worth your while.QG3, Telliskivi 57, tel.
(+372) 677 87 38, www.kukeke.ee. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Read more reviews online:
Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. . tallinn.inyourpocket.com
T6ULSW
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 23
Kalamaja - Tallinns artistic district
where to drink
Although currently known primarily for its great eateries,
the Kalamaja district is increasingly becoming a nightspot
as well and while still mostly popular with locals, is starting
to see an influx of expats and tourists alike.

Kohvik Tops
Kind of an artsy-trendy-underground place, Tops is cer-
tainly tops to over 5,000, primarily locals - at least on
Estonias Facebook. Hosting a wide-variety of events ranging from
first dedicated live music to film nights and a whole host of other hap-
craft beer bar penings, including something called Femme Fatale. This
nightspot can truly get packed on the weekend nights and
the wide-range of the people who hang out here certainly
makes for an interesting time. They also offer a decent se-
Telliskivi 60A (+372) 5866 4496
lection of lite-bites that happen to go well with drinks and
the prices are incredibly decent for Tallinn.QG3, Soo 15,
tel. (+372) 56 24 86 77, www.kohviktops.ee. Open 16:00
- 24:00, Thu 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed
Over 100 craft beers from Mon, Sun. 6LEXW
the worlds best brewers
Full range of Estonian
Pudel Baar
microbrews Beer flights
English ciders and
Run by a British expat, who was formerly the creative force
botanical soft drinks behind the Drink Bar in Old Town, Bottle Bar remains true
Relaxed interior with to his philosophy that a decent watering hole should stand
outdoor terrace on the foundation of great beers, ciders and other quality
beverages. In fact, it was he that basically started a beer
revolution in Estonia by first importing the highest quality,
IPAs, stouts, lagers and natural ciders into the country giving
the the local beer establishment a bit of a kick in the pants.
This new establishment is located in the Telliskivi complex
and in keeping with the industrial atmosphere of the area
is stylish yet bare-bones. Some cool events throughout the
rest of the year.QG3, Telliskivi 60A, tel. (+372) 58 66 44
96. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 -
02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. 6S

Shvips
Why whine when you can drink wine? This great little wine
bar in Kalamaja has a great, quirky yet cosy atmosphere, an ex-
cellent selection of wines and prices that make coming here
worth it for aficionados and novices alike. Shvips also offers up
some nice delicatessen snacks that pair perfectly with many
of their wines. A decent selection of other beverages can also
be had for those not into fermented grape juice. Their smok-
ing room is another great bonus.QG2, Telliskivi 51i, tel.
(+372) 58 22 58 95, www.shvips.ee. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. LXW

Speakeasy by Phjala
Brought to you by the Estonian craft brewery company
Phjala, Speakeasy is indeed a trendy underground sort
of hole-in-the-wall where one can find a wide range of
craft beers from all over the place, but naturally they fea-
ture their own brews. With chipboard walls, retro furnish-
ings and tasty beers this is one not to miss.QB1, Kopli
4, www.speakeasy.ee. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. 6
24 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Kalamaja - Tallinns artistic district
events at telliskivi
Photographic Art Fair
September 30 - October 01 at 10:00 - 20:00 and Oc
tober 02 at 10:00 - 18:00, at Green Hall. There will be
36 artists and artist-duos and four galleries presented
at this years Estonian Photographic Art Fair. Fair also
includes a book sale/exhibition, which focuses on
Swedish photographic art. Fairs public programme in-
cludes guided tours, artist talks, lectures, book present-
ations and workshops. Graffiti art at Telliskivi Creative City.

Vabalava Comedy Night Craig Hill &


Jimmy Mcghie telliskivi loomelinnak
October 13 at 20:00, at Vaba Lava Theatre. Guests of
the show are two of the UKs hottest stand-up comedy Telliskivi Creative City is a revamped complex of
stars, Craig Hill and Jimmy McGhie. Stand Up fans will 11 old industrial buildings (formerly the Baltic Rail-
remember Craig Hill from his performance in Vaba Lava ways factory) and a defining feature of the ber-hip
last year, the kilted Scotsman who absolutely tore the Kalamaja district and has become a magnet for all
roof off with his boundless energy and quick wit. The kinds of creative enterprises and activities. Apart from
show will be hosted by Comedy Estonias own Louis housing some off-beat restaurants and bars, funky
Zezeran and Karl-Alari Varma and the entire perform- design shops, The Vaba Lava theatre space, antique
ance is presented in English. shops and the like, its also a living, breathing space
for innovation, with offices available in a mini-hub
Halloween Party the perfect home for any creative industry company
October 30 at 23:00, at Red Hall (Punane Maja). Cos- or NGO. A packed schedule of art exhibits, concerts,
tumes, best DJs and LIVE performances, scary surprises street festivals and other cultural happenings keeps
and a lot of fun. the spotlight on this up-and-coming little city and
makes sure the crowds keep coming back. Those who
Contemporary Dance Performance want to fully explore this factory zone can book the 1.5
DI - 2-hour Telliskivi Urban Walk organised by Estonian
November at 17:00 and 20:00, at Vaba Lava Theatre. Urban Lab. Contact (+372) 53 57 04 01, linnaretked@
Di is a contemporary dance performance by Raho linnalabor.ee.QG-3, Telliskivi 60A, info@telliskivi.eu,
Aadla and Joonas Tagel. Two dancers who are meet- www.telliskivi.eu/en/.
ing on stage in order to create a feeling of eternity and
divinity. They believe that divine is something that is Vaba Lava (Open Space)
created by us, humans, when we are truly connected The Vaba Lava Theatre is based in the industrial Telliskivi
with ourselves. Raho and Joonas are meeting their Creative City complex and is a venue for young, exper-
physical extremes in order to constitute their own imental and innovative performing arts produced by
celestial self. small and independent theatre groups. The same build-
ing is also home to the Sltumatu Tantsu Lava (www.stl.
Telliskivi Flea Market ee/en), a brand new platform for contemporary dance
Every Saturday 10:00 - 15:00 in Green Hall (B productions that host a wide range of performances by
Building, 2nd floor) in Telliskivi Creative City. Each domestic and international choreographers. See web-
weekend this famous event is open season for bar- sites for more details and programme schedules.QG-3,
gain-hunters, hipsters and fashion designers, offering Telliskivi 60A (Telliskivi Creative City), tel. (+372) 552
a chance to shop for all kinds of re-usage goods, an- 52 58, www.vabalava.ee/en/.
tiques, vintage stuff and handicrafts.

Tiks
Tiks is a wine shop and bar located in the trendy Kalam-
aja neighbourhood. Friendly and knowledgeable staff,
along with reasonable prices make this a good stop for a
glass of wine, or two on an evening out.QG3, Kopli 14,
tel. (+372) 604 62 99. Open Mon, Sun 12:00 - 19:00, Tue
12:00 - 22:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
02:00. 6ILW
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 25
The Dark Side of Tallinn

Former Patarei Prison (Photo by Marko Leppik, courtesy of Tallinn City Tourist Office & Convention Bureau)

October and November are dark months in Estonia, with


tunnels under tallinn the days getting shorter and the nights a lot longer and
colder. Historically, Estonians did not celebrate Halloween,
Legends, secrets and underground passages, the tun- but observed St. Martins Day and All Souls Day in the folk
nels arent just for rats any more, now you can tour calendar. St. Martins Day (November 11) celebrates the end
them, too! Built in the 17th-century by the Swedes to of the agrarian year and the beginning of winter. On this day,
help protect the city, these tunnels are a fascinating children dress up as men and go from
relic of times past. Here visitors can ride the under- door to door, singing and telling jokes
ground train into Tallinns future or take a walk into the in exchange for treats. On All Souls Day
depths of the citys past. Watch your head though some (November 2nd), Estonians light can-
of the passage ways can be a little hard on you. Re- dles in the windows and on the graves
cently opened, the Carved Stone Museum, housed in of loved ones in remembrance. You can
the same tunnels, displays decorative and interesting visit the Metsakalmistu Cemetery in
carved stone fragments, including columns and family the evening to see hundreds of candles
crests dating back to the 15th century. burning on the plots in this beautiful
forest cemetery (see also p.27).
Tunnel tours (by arrangement) run from 10:30 - 18:00, Stable Tower
from November 10:00 - 17:30, every day except Monday. Tallinn is one of the oldest cities in Europe, founded in
For booking, contact Kiek in de Kk tel. (+372) 644 66 1248, but some of the earliest human settlements date
86. Bring warm clothing back 5000 years. A city cant be around so long without
as the tunnel tempera- a few dark secrets, hidden passageways, and haunted
tures are 6 to 8 degrees. places to explore. Weve put together a list of places, tours,
QD1/2, Komandandi activities, and even restaurants to help you explore the
2 (Kiek in de Kk), darker side of Tallinn.
tel. (+372) 644 66 86,
www.linnamuuseum. Tallinn has a few ghost stories of its own, like the Devils
ee/kok. Admission 6 Wedding at Rataskaevu 16 (now the address for one
(Bastion Tunnels), 9 of the most popular restaurants in town, see p.62), the
(Carved Stone Mu Executioner at Lhike Jalg Tower (see area C-1 on the
seum and Bastion Tun map), probably Tallinns most haunted place, and the old
nels). Joint ticket for haunted prison in the Stable Tower in the Danish Kings
Carved Stone Museum, Garden (see photo). You can read more about these leg-
Kiek in de Kk and Bas ends and ghost stories in our article Haunted Tallinn (see
tion Tunnels 13. our website). Or see for yourself on a ghost tour of the city
run by Estonian Experience (see p.30) where one of their
26 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
The Dark Side of Tallinn
knowledgeable guides take you on a walking tour of the
haunted streets of Tallinn at night. halloween in tallinn
You can of course wander through the city visiting some While Estonians dont really cel-
of the more eerie places yourself. You need not walk far in ebrate Halloween, the western
the Old Town to discover Vaimu (Ghost) Street between customs associated with the day
Lai and Pikk (see area B/C-3 on the map). Its not clear why have made their way to Estonia
residents believed the street to be haunted, but at one and many bars and clubs around
point they objected when the town governor wanted to town organise Halloween events. In honour of Hallow-
change the streets name to Evil. The 17th century Bas een, Pudel Baar (see page xx) will be offering a special
tion Tunnels (see p. 27) offer guided tours through the un- beer, Pumpkin King, at a discounted rate on Halloween
derground passageways builts by the Swedes to protect night. The popular Tex-Mex bar, Texas Honky Tonk &
the city. Visit the Dominican Monastery Claustrum (see Cantina (see page xx) will also be celebrating Halloween
page xx) where one of the most interesting spots may be with a special event and menu. On 30 October, head
the downstairs room at the Monastery that houses the en- over to Telliskivi Creative City for a Halloween party in
ergy pillar purportedly the source of a mysterious power. the Red Hall with costumes, top DJs, live performances,
For an even more interactive tour visit Tallinn Legends and lots of scary surprises (see p.25).
(see page 36) where you can go on a trip through Tallinns
past in the form of theatrical and interactive exhibits. But
probably one of the spookiest places in the city, which an After all the haunted excitement, youll definitely want to
equally haunted past, is the imposing Patarei Prison (lo- enjoy some good food and drink. Heres a few colourful
cated at F-3, Kalaranna 2), which originally opened as a sea places we encourage you to visit after your spooky explo-
fortress in 1840, housed inmates from 1919 until 2004, and ration of Tallinn. The Admiral (see p.59), which doesnt
has been left virtually untouched since. As of 6 October, it look like much from the outside, is actually one of the
will unfortunately be closed to visitors, but its dreariness most unforgettable and unique dining experiences in
can still be experienced from the outside. town. The service and the atmosphere take you back in
time to luxury sea voyage dining as the restaurant is lo-
cated in a steamboat. Other than the name, Prgu (see
metsakalmistu cemetary p.73) or Hell has nothing creepy about it, but does have a
fantastic selection of craft beer and hearty meals for a cold
Tallinns most famous cemetery, Metsakalmistu was autumn night. Hell Hunt (see p.73), claiming to be Tallinns
officially opened in 1939. Among its most famous oldest pub offers the same festive atmosphere with good
permanent guests are Estonias presidents Konstan- food and drink. To continue your evening, visit Suhkru
tin Pts and Lennart Meri, writers Lydia Koidula and moll (see p.75) a bar completely decorated in skulls, and
Anton-Hansen Tammsaare, chess player Paul Keres, finish the evening at Levist vljas (see p.75) where you can
and composer Raimond Valgre. Even if you dont visit dance and drink into the wee morning hours.
these celebrity graves, a stroll through the rest of the
cemetery is still a fascinating and peaceful experience. plan an escape!
Take bus N34A or 38 from Viru Keskus bus termi-
nal (C-4) to the Metsakalmistu or Prname stops. adventure room
QKloostrimetsa tee 36, www.kalmistud.ee. Challenge yourself and your friends to a real life escape
game where groups of 2-6 players are locked in a secret
room from which they must try to escape using common
sense and the tools available. Try your hand at two differ-
ent games: The Original Game and The Black Queen.
Teams have 60 minutes to complete the challenge. Book-
ing in advance is necessary.QI3, Tatari 64, tel. (+372) 521
53 21, www.adventurerooms.ee. Game costs 65.

challenge your senses!


The popular Food Studio offer six-course blind din-
ners where you can experience food in dark, well with
a blindfold actually. Its a true test to see whether your
sense of taste was accurate. Groups of up to 12 people
are welcome. Pre-bookings are a must. QG3, Ahtri 6,
tel. (+372) 655 63 00, info@foodstudio.ee.
Lhike Jalg

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 27


Sightseeing
Given its age (over 800 years old) and fascinating history, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
Tallinn is chalk-full of sights, museums and countless Toompeas dominating landmark
stories to help you pass the time rather interestingly. Here is the Russian Orthodox cathedral
youlll find the must-sees and a whole lot more. named for the duke who attacked
Find the Tourist Information Point in the Basics section. southeastern Estonia and Pskov in
the early 13th century. Tsar Alexander
III ordered the cathedral designed in
The Old Town 1894 by St. Petersburg master Mik-
Dating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of hail Preobrazhensky and it was com-
Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their pleted in 1900. According to legend, the cathedral was
stay. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval cap- built on the grave of Estonian hero Kalev and has suffered
ital take you past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired structurally as a result.QC/D1, Lossi plats 10, tel. (+372)
churches and old, merchant houses. For centuries, whats 644 34 84, www.orthodox.ee. Services in Russian Mon
now the Old Town has been divided into two distinct parts: - Fri 08:30 ;17:00, Sat 08:30, Sun 09:30. Free admission.
Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded
over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a sep- Danish Kings Garden One of the most pictu-
arate political entity with rights as an autonomous town. resque and secluded locations in Old Town, the Danish
Kings Garden is filled with trees, benches, little nooks and
a great view of the Niguliste Church spire. The best time to
Toompea Hill visit the garden is at night with the medieval walls at your
Climb Pikk jalg and youll find yourself on Castle Square back and the beautifully lit lower town roofs providing am-
(Lossi plats), smack-dab between the seat of the Estonian bience. It also features two of Tallinns fortification towers,
government at Toompea Castle and the 19th-century sym- Neitsitorn (Virgins Tower) and Tallitorn (Stable Tower).QD-
bol of the Tsars power in Estonia, Alexander Nevsky Cathed- 1, Lhike jalg 9a.
ral. You are standing at the birthplace of Tallinn, where the
Knights of the Sword built a fortress in 1229. Dome Church (Cathedral of Saint Mary
the Virgin)
Viewing platforms What might be the oldest church in
The Kohtuotsa and Patkuli Estonia was founded in 1219 by the
view platforms are usually first wave of Danish forces. The Gothic
the first place that tourists exterior dates to the 14th century, but
want to see when they the interior was rebuilt after the 1684
visit Tallinn. From here, fire. The Baroque pulpit (1686) and
sweeping views of the organ loft (1780) are worth a look. As
town, its red-tiled roofs, its you enter be sure to step on the tomb
towers, its walls and all of its of Otto Johann Thuve, who asked that
charm open up. Get your camera ready.QC-1/2. his grave be placed in this humbling
location. Please be considerate and visit after the Sunday
Toompea Castle service.QC1, Toomkooli 6, tel. (+372) 644 41 40, www.
Built on the spot where the eelk.ee/tallinna.toom. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon,
ancient Estonians wooden Services in Estonian Sun 11:00. Organ music Sat 12:00.
fortress stood before the Admission 1.50. The towers viewing platform is open
1219 Danish invasion, Tallinns to the public Tue - Sun 09:30 - 15:30, closed Mon. Ad
castle served for seven centu- mission 5.
ries as the seat of power for
the nations foreign masters. Kiek in de Kk (Peep into the Kitchen)
Now it houses the Riigikogu, Estonias parliament. On one Built 1475 - 1481, this 45m, six-storey
corner of the castle you can see Pikk Hermann tower with cannon tower played a key role in
the blue, black and white tricolour flag waving above it. Its the Livonian War and still has nine of
commonly recognised that whoevers flag flies on top of Ivan IVs cannonballs embedded in
this tower is the ruler of Estonia. The pink section you see its walls to prove it. Medieval soldiers
in front is actually a baroque structure added in the 18th joked that from its top, they could see
Century. For a more castle-like view of this building, head right into the kitchens of the houses
behind it, down the opposite side of the hill.QD1, Lossi below - hence the odd name. The
plats 1, tel. (+372) 631 63 45, www.riigikogu.ee/en/visit- tower now operates as a museum.
us/. English guided tour every Friday at 11:00. Group QD1/2, Komandandi 2, tel. (+372) 644 66 86, www.
tours offered with other preferred languages from linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed
Monday through Thursdays, between 10:00 - 16:00 and Mon, From November open 10:00 - 17:30, closed Mon.
Fridays 10:00 - 15:00. Call for details and bookings. Admission 5. Joint ticket with the Bastion Tunnels 10.
28 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
Niguliste Church - Museum
Lower Town Tallinns most famous work of art, a wall-sized
Lower Town, the larger part of medieval Tallinn (or Reval as it fragment of Bernt Notkes spooky, 15th-cen-
was called back then), became a member of the Hanseatic tury masterpiece Dance Macabre, has its home
League at the end of the 13th century. Goods from around the in this 13th-century Gothic church-turned art
world came in through the port and were traded on the mar- museum. Destroyed during World War II and
ket on Town Hall Square. Reval operated autonomously from rebuilt during Soviet times, the church now
the rest of the Estonian territories right up until Tsarist Russian houses a fascinating collection of medieval
times. As in the rest of the country, the real movers and shakers religious art, with altars from the 15th and 16th
in Reval society were the Baltic Germans, with Ethnic Estonians centuries, a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers,
for most part second-class citizens. However, Estonian pea- and a silver chamber. The church is also known for its acous-
sants from surrounding areas often escaped to the city, where tics - organ concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday
they could eventually be considered free. at 16:00.QC2, Niguliste 3, tel. (+372) 631 43 30/tours: (+372)
644 99 03, www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
Town Hall Square Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5.
As a medieval market and a modern meeting place, Town
Hall Square, has been the heart of city life for eight centuries. St. Catherines Passage
With the Town Hall at your back, you can survey some of the One of the prettiest little walk-
most impressive examples of Gothic architecture in Tallinn. ways in all of Old Town, the me-
Hunt for a circular stone in the centre of the square marked dieval St. Catherines passage
with a compass rose. From here, if you stretch, you can see connects Vene and Mrivahe
the tops Tallinns five most famous spires.QC/D-2. streets. On the northern por-
tion of the passage you can find
Town Hall whats left of St. Catherines Church (hence the passage
The jewel in the crown of Old Town name) and various large, ancient tombstones that used to
is unquestionably the Town Hall, the line the inside of the sanctuary. On the southern portion
centre of civic rule from the Mid- of the passage, youll find numerous artisan workshops,
dle Ages to the early 20th century. where youll even get to see them hard at work creating
Though a previous town hall stood new items for you to buy.QC3.
here at least as far back as 1322, the
imposing Gothic building of to- St. Olafs Church
day dates to 1404. Old Thomas, the St. Olafs 124m spire is a Tallinn landmark,
weather vane who symbolises Tallinn, and was the tallest building in Europe
has been keeping watch since 1530.Most of the year you between 1549 and 1625. An old legend
need to call ahead to arrange for a glimpse of the vaulted claims that the church was built to attract
halls, however from June 26 till August 31 Town Hall is more merchant ships to the town by a
open for all visitors.QD2, Raekoja plats 1, tel. (+372) 645 mysterious craftsman who promised to
79 00, raekoda@tallinnlv.ee, www.raekoda.tallinn.ee/. work for free if the townspeople discov-
Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5. ered his name (Olev). In reality, the church
took its name from the canonised Norwegian king, Olav Ha-
Holy Spirit Church valdsson. The first mention of the church dates to 1267, but
This awe-inspiring, 13th-century the interior dates to 1840 and reflects that eras Historicist
church adjacent Town Hall Square bent. The towers viewing platform is open daily 10:00 -
sports an impressive Baroque tower 18:00. Admission 2. QB3, Lai 50, tel. (+372) 641 22 41,
as well as an ornate, outdoor clock www.oleviste.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Services in Esto
thats said to be one of the most nian Sun 10:00, 12:00, Thu 18:30 (prayer). Free admission.
photographed objects in Tallinn. The
real treasure however is the intricate, Town Hall Pharmacy
wood-carved interior, which includes One of the oldest continuously running pharmacies in Eu-
Baroque pews and a Renaissance rope is on Town Hall Square. No one knows exactly when it
pulpit (the oldest in Tallinn). Founded by the Order of the opened, but records show that the Raeapteek was already
Holy Spirit, the church was always close to the people - on its third owner in 1422. In Medieval times patients could
It was the most active in providing alms to the sick and buy mummy juice and burnt bees for treatment, and healthy
poor, and it was here that the first sermons were given in folks could even drop in for a glass of spiced wine. Keeping
Estonian after the Reformation.QC2/3, Phavaimu 2, tel. up with the times, the pharmacy sells the usual aspirin and
(+372) 646 44 30, www.eelk.ee/tallinna.puhavaimu. condoms, but part of the shop is also a museum, display-
Open 10:00 - 14:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Services in English ing old medical instruments and other curiosities.QC2,
every Sunday at 13:00, classical music hour Mon 18:00. Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372) 631 48 60, www.raeapteek.
Entrance fee 1. ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Free admission.
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 29
Sightseeing
are for 2 people: 2hr Tallinn Old Town Walking Tour 88,
2hr Tallinn Panoramic Drive with guide and driver 170,
4hr Tallinn Old Town and Kadriorg-Pirita Tour 250, 2hr
Tallinn Ghost Tour 88, 4hr Paldiski and Countryside
Tour 280, 10hr Helsinki Day Trip 390. See website for
additional tours and info.Qtel. (+372) 53 46 40 60, www.
estonianexperience.com.

Euroaudioguide
This audio guide allows the user to take themselves on a
tour at their leisure, using an iPod, a map and their own
two feet. The narration provides loads of interesting facts
and exciting tales from Tallinns past and its available at
many major hotels throughout the city and the Tourist in-
formation centre. Available also via download to your own
mobile device. See website for prices and details.Qtel.
(+372) 505 18 47, www.euroaudioguide.com.

Hop-On Hop-Off City Tour


View of Niguliste church
This tour uses bright red, London-style double-decker
buses to take tourists on several different routes through
Tallinn. Theres a Red Line covering the town centre and
Sightseeing tours Kadriorg, a Green Line connecting to Pirita, the TV Tower
Audioguide Old Town Tour and the Botanic gardens, and a Blue Line that takes you
On this self-guided tour, your own personal mobile de- to the Estonian Open Air Museum. Information for each
vice provides customised narration (and sound effects!) location is provided in ten languages by Audioguide (see
on the history and architecture of key Old Town sights. above), and riders can hop on and off at any stop.QC4,
Follow the map (provided) and set your own pace. There Mere pst. in front of the souvenir market, tel. (+372) 627
are also tours available for the Estonian Open Air Museum 90 80, www.citytour.ee. One-day ticket 19; two-day
and the Tallinn City Museum. The audioguide equipment ticket 23. Free with 24hr, 48hr and 72hr Tallinn Card.
can be rented from the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre
for 9.90, 50% discount with a Tallinn Card purchase.Qtel. Rickshaw taxis
(+372) 655 66 33, www.audioguide.ee. This alternative, fun, pedal-powered transportation and
sightseeing option currently has about 10 different op-
City Bike Tours erators in Old Town. There are many locations where
Now more than just bikes, Citybike offers tours on wheels you can grab a ride and the rates vary between different
and by foot. There are tours available for pretty much any companies and can often be negotiated with the drivers
interesting sight in and around the city. These include themselves. Just make sure to set a price with them before
excursions of Old Town, including a visit to the tunnels the journey.
and trips to Pirita and Kadriorg. Customised tours are also
available. Excursions leave from the City Bike office in Tallinn Official Sightseeing Tour
Old Town, Vene 33.QB3, Vene 33, tel. (+372) 511 18 19, The classic general tour of Tallinn, the Official Sightseeing
www.citybike.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00. See website for Tour, is made up of two parts: a bus tour of the city that
prices and details. covers downtown and some of the more interesting outer
areas, and also a walking tour of Old Town. The whole affair
City Train takes 2.5 hours and tours run two to four times daily. See
This is a happy, blue little tourist train that makes a website for schedule. The tour costs 28.QD4, Estonia
20-minute circuit through the streets of Old Town all year pst. 3, Reisiekspert, tel. (+372) 610 86 16, travel-expert.
long. Departures are from Kullassepa street (C-2). Great fun eu/en/sightseeings-estonia.
for both kids and kids-at-heart. Ride costs 6 for adults
and 4 for the kids.Qtel. (+372) 58 87 77 42. Open 11:30
- 19:00.

Estonian Experience
If you want to make the most of your limited time, and
enjoy a personal private guided tour, check out Estonian
Experience. Their friendly and entertaining guides can
be booked on short notice and your tour can be tailored
to suit your pace and interests. The following tour prices
30 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
tallinn card
If youre trying pack the most into your time in Tallinn,
consider picking up the city tourist offices discount
card, the Tallinn Card, good for 24hrs (32), 48hrs (42),
or 72hrs (52). For kids 7 - 14, the price is reduced by
about 50%. Cardholders get to choose from three
tours, one free city tour and get discounts from a
number of others. Cardholders will also gain free ad-
mission to all the citys museums, unlimited use of
public transport and all sorts of fun bonuses and free-
bies, like chocolate-covered marzipan and admission
to Club Hollywood. A very well written folded-map
that comes with the card, lists all the offers and ben-
efits. The card is sold in major hotels, can be found at
the airport, in the harbour and at the Tallinn Tourist
Information Centre (Kullassepa 4). For more details,
consult the website at www.tallinncard.eeQwww.
tallinncard.ee.

tember, other times only for prearranged group book-


ings.QC3, Mrivahe 33, tel. (+372) 511 25 36, www.
claustrum.eu. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 3. Various
programmes available, see website for details.

St. Charles the XIs Church


Built in pseudo-Romanesque style on the site of a 17th-
century wooden church, Kaarli is an excellent example of
the use of one of Estonias greatest resources - limestone.
In all, construction took 20 years (1862 - 1882), but painter
Churches Johann Kler completed Estonias largest mural here,
Although Tallinn is small, the amount of historic churches Come to Me, in just ten days. The church is also home to
around the city is quite impressive. The styles and variety Estonias largest church organ.QE1, Toompuiestee 4, tel.
in architecture also vary quite a bit, from the predomin- (+372) 611 91 00, www.eelk.ee/tallinna.kaarli. Services
ate Lutheran to Orthodox and Catholic amongst others. in Estonian Sun 10:00 and Mon 13:00. Classical music
Tallinns most famous churches have already been listed in hour on Tue 17:00.
the Old Town section, but here are some others for readers
with a special interest. St. Michaels Swedish Lutheran Church
Originally built as a hospital in the 16th century, St. Mi-
Church of the Transfiguration of Our Lord chaels also housed a spinning factory where fallen
Originally belonging to St. Michaels Convent of the Cister- women worked. Then it was transformed into a church
cian Order (located next door and now housing the Gu- for local Swedes. After serving as a weightlifting room un-
stavus Adolphus School), the church was given to an Or- der the Soviets, the church was returned in 1993 to the
thodox congregation in 1716. The church has retained its Swedish congregation, whose efforts to fund-raise for
original form, save the addition of a Baroque spire in 1776 renovation of the church have paid off. Book in advance
and exterior renovations in the early 1800s. The carved- for museum tour.QD2, Rtli 9, tel. (+372) 644 19 38,
wood iconostasis is one of the most impressive of its kind. www.stmikael.ee. Services in Swedish every Sunday
QB2, Suur-Kloostri 14-1, tel. (+372) 646 40 03, www. 12:00 and in Finnish every Sunday 10:00.
platon.ee. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00.
St. Peter and Pauls Roman Catholic Church
Dominican Monastery Claustrum A relative newcomer as far as Tallinns houses of worship
This 13th century monastery offers a glimpse into the lives go, this pseudo-Gothic church was built in on the former
of medieval monks. The east wing of the once three cham- refectory of the Dominican Monastery from 1841 - 1844.
bers remains where you can explore many rooms includ- Drop by to look at the interior. If the door is locked, go to
ing a monks dormitory and priors living quarters. One of the office and knock.QC3, Vene 18, tel. (+372) 644 63 67,
the most interesting spots may be the downstairs room www.katoliku.ee. Services in Estonian Mon - Fri 08:00,
that houses the energy pillar purportedly the source of Mon - Wed & Fri 18:00, Sun 11:30; in Latin Sat 08:00; in
a mysterious power. Open from May 15th through Sep- English Sat 18:00.
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 31
Sightseeing
great guild hall History museums
Kiek in de Kk
Estonian History Museum - Great Now fully renovated, this tower/museum is an excellent
Guild Hall introduction to the history of Tallinns defences. Built
Housed in the Great Guild Hall, this newly renovated 1475 - 1481, the 45m, six-storey cannon tower played
museums permanent exhibition, entitled Spirit of a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan
Survival, covers 11,000 years of Estonias history with IVs cannonballs embedded in its walls. The top floor
interactive displays and text in Estonian and English houses a caf with some excellent views. And where
(audio-guides available in Russian and English). The did the tower get its name? Check out the voyeurs view
building itself, built 1407 - 1410, is significant as the from the windows for yourself as you climb upward.
home of Tallinns union of wealthy merchants and is a QD1/2, Komandandi 2, tel. (+372) 644 66 86, www.
sight worth visiting in its own right. As part of the ren- linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed
ovations, several formal rooms and cellars have now Mon. From November open 10:00 - 17:30, closed Mon.
been opened to the public for the first time. Next to Admission 5. Joint ticket with the Bastion Tunnels
the museum, follow the Brsi Passage where Estonias 10.
history is set in the stone path (when its not covered
in snow), from the pre-history, through the present- Tallinn City Museum
day. Until May 7, 2017, the temporary exhibition Me By far, the most modern and complete introduction to
dieval Pleasures: Festivals of Tallinn. Appropriately built into a 14th-century merchant
the Great Guild in the 15th house, the City Museum houses elaborate displays, with
and 16th Centuries takes English captions, demonstrating various aspects of Tallinn
guests through the yearly life through the ages. They also house a depository of por-
cycle of lavish and long-last- celain and faience (fine tin-glazed pottery on a delicate
ing festivals and celebrations pale buff earthenware structure), open from Tue - Sun
of Tallinns upper class in the 10:30 - 17:30, closed Mon.QC3, Vene 17, tel. (+372) 615
Middle Ages.QC2, Pikk 17, 51 80, www.linnamuuseum.ee/linnamuuseum. Open
tel. (+372) 696 86 90, www. 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From November open 10:00
ajaloomuuseum.ee. Open - 17:30, open Mon. Admission 4.
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed.
Admission 5.
sightseeing for kids
Increasingly, Tallinn has become a destination for families
and while there are plenty of things to do and see that will
occupation history intrigue both young and old alike - here you can find a list
of extra child-friendly museums.
The Museum of Occupations
In the period from 1940 to 1991, Estonia was occupied Childrens Museum Miiamilla - Kadriorg
briefly by Nazi Germany and then for four and a half location
decades by the USSR. The history of this difficult pe- This hands-on museum just for kids is located in the
riod comes to life in this modern museum on the edge beautiful Kadriorg Park and is especially geared to-
of Old Town. Audio-visual displays and art installations wards children between the ages of 3 and 11. The
add life to the museums artefacts and texts. The per- playful and often practical exhibits are constantly
manent exhibition is currently joined by two other changing, with active themes so that the little ones
exhibitions: Forbidden Tunes till the end of year and are sure to be stimulated to the point of exhaustion
The Katy Massacre till October 30.QD/E1, Toom - which were sure all parents are sure to appreciate.
pea 8, tel. (+372) 668 02 50, www.okupatsioon.ee. QG5, Koidula 21A, tel. (+372) 601 70 57, www.
Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6. linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla. Open 12.00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Family ticket 6.

Childrens Museum Miiamilla - Kalamaja


location
Just as the name implies, this museum is a treasure
trove of dolls, antique and modern. Small and geared
toward kids, the museum proudly presents its perma-
nent exhibition, Old Beloved Toys.QA1, Kotzebue
16, tel. (+372) 641 34 91, www.linnamuuseum.ee/
lastemuuseum/. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission 2.
32 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
Estonian Childrens Literature Centre
This literature centre predominately features childrens vana toomas
books in the Estonian language, but also has a good selec-
tion of books in other languages as well. The centre also One of Tallinns most re-
has a few permanent and special exhibitions, including cognised and legendary
the Edgar Valter gallery, which is dedicated to the loved figures, the weathervane
childrens author and illustrator. Many of the displays are Vana Toomas (Old Tho-
interesting for young and old alike, no matter what your mas), can be seen guar-
Estonian language skills. Groups should book in advance ding over Old Town from
by calling (+372) 617 72 35.QA3, Pikk 73, tel. (+372) 617 the top of the Town hall
72 36, www.elk.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. tower, rain or shine. Too-
Closed Sun, From September open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat mas wasnt always as old
11:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. as his current name sug-
gests - you see, as a wee
NUKU Theatre Museum of Puppet Arts peasant lad he won an
A fabulous world of theatre awaits at the NUKU Museum! annual archery contest
The museum is part of the puppet theatre complex, which that was only reserved for
also includes Estonias only professional puppet theatre the nobility. He expected
NUKU. Together, they offer puppetry experiences, ac- to get into a fair amount of trouble for winning, as it had
tivities and educational projects for children, youth and never been done by someone of his lowly stature, but his
adults. In the museum, you can try out everything that win would not be in vain as he was invited to become
goes on in the theatre: experience the world of puppet an apprentice guard. The next few years would see much
theatre both as a viewer as well as an actor, explore be- adventure for our young hero as he performed numerous
hind the scenes, play with different types of puppets, learn heroic deeds during the Livonian war and went on to
about the history of theatre, change into costumes, make serve Tallinn well past the usual retirement age. At some
puppets, and play museum games.QC2, Nunne 8, tel. point later the townsfolk noticed a similarity between the
(+372) 667 95 55, www.nuku.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. weathervane and their favorite soldier and decided to
Closed Mon. Admission 5, family ticket 14. Booking honor him by giving his name to the vane. He has since
of events, workshops and guided tours for groups become a symbol of the city.QC-2.
should be done seven days in advance.

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 33


Sightseeing
Estonian Museum of Natural History
All your favourite taxidermied Estonian, and a few for-
eign, animals (not to mention dried plants and mollusks)
are on display in this renovated three-storey museum
designed to introduce nature to youngsters. Dont miss
the museums mascot, the biggest fish ever caught in
the Baltics. English language audio guides are available
and a small museum shop selling natural Estonian sou-
venirs is open on the first floor. Check out the fascinating,
live-fish exhibits while youre there. Until 8 January 2017:
The Bold and the Beautiful. Starring Lichen and Moss
introduces the extraordinary endurance and often un-
derestimated value to our ecosystem and to people that
lichen and moss have. QB2, Lai 29a, tel. (+372) 641 17
39, www.loodusmuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu
Speciality museums 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5, family ticket
Bank of Estonia Museum 10.
The 20th century was a turbulent one for Estonias curren-
cies. This modern museum displays every kind of banknote Kalev Marzipan Room
used here from Tsarist roubles to German occupation Estonias famous candy factory operates a tiny museum
tender, and outlines the history of Estonias national bank and shop in the Old Town building where the company
itself, founded in 1919. Theres also an in-depth exhibit that started back in the 19th century. Here you can find out all
helps the visitor understand the role of money in society about the history of marzipan, first used as a medicine in
and information all about the Euro and just how the Eu- the Middle Ages, as well as other interesting facts about
rozone works. For anyone whos already forgotten what this almond based sweet. You can take a look at the in-
they look like, those now-extinct Euroland currencies (the tricate, hand-painted marzipan creations, including some
Estonian Kroon included) are also showcased.QD3, Es hundred-year-old moulds and if the timing is right, even
tonia pst. 13, tel. (+372) 668 07 60, www.eestipank.ee/
muuseum. Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. Admission free. seaplane harbour
Estonian Health Museum The highly interactive Seaplane Harbour, literally, has
This fascinating museum is filled with historic health re- tonnes of reasons why its the most popular mu-
lated artefacts, interactive displays and hands-on exhibits. seum in Estonia. This modern museum is housed in
The top floor of the museum certainly contains some of architecturally unique seaplane hangar, which include
the most interesting displays such as those concerning structures that were part of the Peter the Great Naval
sexual health and reproduction, addictive substances Fortress between 1916-1917. The authentic submarine
and a special section highlighting various parasites and Lembit from the 1930-s, the century-old steam-pow-
bacteria that live inside us or feed from us. Some of the ered icebreaker Suur Tll, a Short 184 seaplane and
exhibits are certainly a little creepy, but overall its quite an many other life-sized exhibits are on display here.
educational and thought-provoking experience. Be sure Youll get a chance to take part in maritime history,
to check out the virtual hairstyle machine where you can as well as participate in the many hands-on exhibits.
send a photo to yourself via e-mail. Other highlights in- Until January 15th the exhibition by the Swedish His-
clude the dental room and collection of gallstones.QB2, tory Museum Vikings: Life Beyond the Legend will
Lai 30, tel. (+372) 641 18 86/(+372) 641 20 49, www. be available for visit. The exhibition displays a rich se-
tervishoiumuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 lection of Viking artefacts and tells tales about Viking
- 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8. culture and daily life that
have, until now, been
Estonian Maritime Museum: Fat Marga- overshadowed by leg-
ret Tower ends.QF3, Vesilennuki
Centuries of seafaring history, including models, charts 6, tel. (+372) 620 05 50/
and other artefacts, are displayed in this multi-storied (+372) 620 05 45, www.
museum housed in the 16th-century Fat Margaret can- seaplaneharbour.com.
non tower. Dont miss the antique diving equipment or Open 10:00 - 18:00.
the view from the roof. Temporary exhibit until August 27, Closed Mon. Ticket 14,
2017: Viking Era Treasures in Estonia presenting never children 7, family ticket
before seen Viking treasures found in Estonia.QA3, Pikk 28. Children up to 8
70, tel. (+372) 620 05 50, www.fatmargarettower.com. years free of charge.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6.
34 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
take in some interesting stories from Otto Kubo who has
worked at Kalev for 60 years.QC2, Pikk 16, tel. (+372) 646 town fortifications
41 92, www.kohvikmaiasmokk.ee/martsipanituba/.
Open 10:00 - 20:00. Free admission. With 46 towers, medieval Tallinn
was known as one of the most for-
Luscher & Matiesen Museum of the Esto- tified burgs in all Northern Europe.
nian Drink Culture Today 1.85km of the original city
In what started as a simple idea to promote and pay wall and 20 towers survive and sev-
homage to a formerly thriving winery that was based eral of them are open to the public.
on Toompea in Tallinn, Luscher and Matiesen exists
once again as a brand, a budding winery on the Island Epping Tower
Muhu and as a museum dedicated to the history of The focus of the museum inside the Epping tower is an
the company and to wine and spirits as a whole. The interactive exhibition that walks the visitor through the
exhibits showcase the tragic history of the Luscher & history and development of medieval defence systems. On
Matiesen company, interesting legends surrounding display are items pertaining to the towers history, includ-
some of the worlds most loved alcoholic beverages ing suits of armour and complete maps of how the town
and allows the visitor to learn all about the Estonian looked during the 15th-century. Make sure you climb all the
drinks culture as well. Theres also a well-stocked way to the top, the view of Old Town is pretty cool.QB-2,
wine and gift shop on the premises. See their web- Laboratooriumi 31, tel. (+372) 601 30 01, www.epping.
site for more details and info on their winery.QC2, ee. Open Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 5.
Toom-Rtli 10, tel. (+372) 56 91 29 10, www.
luschermatiesen.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admis Hellemann Tower
sion 3, 10 with wine tasting. This medieval structure has been converted into an art
gallery, but paying the small entrance fee will let you have
Museum of Estonian Photography a look at the inside of the tower and give you a chance to
Back in the 14th century this building behind the Town walk along a section of the original town wall where youll
Hall served as the town prison (as a visit to the cellar will get a pigeons-eye view of Old Town.QC-3, Mrivahe
show). Now it houses an extensive exhibition on Estonian 48, tel. (+372) 56 64 65 98, info@hellemann.ee, www.
photography, mainly devoted to the 1840 - 1940 period. hellemann.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 4.
Drop in to peruse the old Tallinn photos, recreated stu-
dio and antique cameras on display.QC2, City Prison, Maidens Tower Museum and Caf
Raekoja 4/6, tel. (+372) 644 87 67, www.linnamuuseum. Originally erected in 1370-73, the tower has under-
ee/fotomuuseum/. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue, gone extensive renovations and its been reconnected
From November open 10:00 - 17:30, closed Tue. Admis to the adjacent defence tower. Neitsitorn a caf as well
sion 2. as historical exhibits reflecting these fortifications and
the stories that go along with them. The museum
The Marzipan Museum mostly contains old glass bottles and a few other
The room of this little shop/museum has a few more cre- historical artefacts.QD-1, Danish Kings Garden, tel.
ations than the Kalev Marzipan Room, but is not quite (+372) 601 26 05, neitsitorn@linnamuuseum.ee,
steeped in as much history. Visitors do however get the www.linnamuuseum.ee/neitsitorn. Open 11:00 -
chance to build their own marzipan figurines and even 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3.
receive a gift-box to house the sweet creation. The mar- Joint ticket with Kiek in de Kk 7.
zipan sculpturing experience will set you back 4.QC3,
Pikk 40, tel. (+372) 646 06 26, www.martsipan.ee. Nunne, Sauna and Kuldjala Towers
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Free admission. Marzipan history Three of the oldest towers are open to the public, en-
tour for groups from 10-30 people costs 5 per per trance at this spot.QB-2, Gmnaasiumi 3, tel. (+372)
son. Call for details. 644 98 67, kodu.linn@mail.ee. Open 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Thu. From November open 11:00 - 16:00,
The Museum of Icons closed Wed, Thu. Admission 2.
Whether youre an expert or novice in the world of icons,
this museum will certainly fascinate. The exhibition in- Viru Gates
cludes over 300 Russian icons dating back as early as The main entrance into Old Town is marked by these
the 15th century. Spread out over four floors, visitors can beautiful twin gate towers, which are only a fraction of
see the progression in style and technique. There is also a previous gate structure. The gate entrance was com-
a wide selection of Old Believer texts, manuscripts, and posed of a large tower, walls and the existing two tow-
religious engravings. English guided tours available.QC3, ers. Unfortunately the larger inner gate towers were de-
Vene 6 (Masters Courtyard), tel. (+372) 641 00 57, www. stroyed, but if you close your eyes were sure that you can
ikoonimuuseum.ee. Open by appointment only. Ad picture what they would have looked like.QC-3.
mission 12.
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 35
Sightseeing
Quirky museums Soviet Tallinn
Medieval Torture Instruments
It sounds like a tourist trap, and certainly is, but this Italian The first thing Tallinners did after regaining independ-
collection is actually fairly extensive and well researched. Two ence in August 1991 was to remove as many symbols
rooms house dozens of instruments of torture, most originals of Soviet power as they could find, but a few humor-
and come with complete explanatory texts with examples ously grotesque, sad albeit important reminders of that
of when they were used to get people to confess to being time are still with us.
witches, etc. Enough to make anyone a firm believer in the
Geneva Convention. Some people have complained its a lit- Architectural Elements
tle expensive for what you get in return. Well let you be the With the exception of the Officers
judge.QC3, Viru 3. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 6. House, few visible sickles and ham-
mers are left on Tallinns buildings.
Tallinn Legends There are a couple of places where
This interactive experience takes you on a trip through Tal- you can still see some rather Sovi-
linns past in the form of theatrical and interactive exhibits. et-looking stars though. One of them
The journey involves nine rooms and nine different leg- is on the corner of Suur-Karja and Va-
ends that have contributed to the folklore of this medieval na-Posti, (D-3), in a building which used to house some
city. We dont want to spoil the fun so we wont go in to offices of the Soviet navy. On the same square you can
detail but its a truly fun experience. Not recommended see the Sprus cinema with more socialist design ele-
for younger guests, pregnant women or those suffering ments near the roof.
from epilepsy - youve been warned. Groups should also
book in advance. See website for additional details and Former KGB Headquarters
info.QC2, Kullassepa 7, tel. (+372) 680 11 69, www. Recently having been renovated for upscale apart-
tallinnlegends.com. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - ments, this building with the bricked-up cellar
20:00. Admission 16. windows, to conceal the horrors and screams of in-
terrogation victims, has long been a symbol of the
streaking skywards! former Soviet-oppression in Estonia. It was here that
perceived enemies of the regime were tortured and
Officially opened on July 11th in 1980, the 314m tower either shot or sent to Siberian work camps. Interest-
was, and is, an imposing example of Soviet engineer- ingly, the KGB used the tall spire of the nearby St. Olafs
ing. From its observation deck at the 175m level, you Church to send radio transmissions.QB3, Pagari 1, at
can see Finland on a clear day. The renovated tower the corner of Pikk 59.
features an interactive Estonian Hall-of-Fame exhibi-
tion, a museum and a swank restaurant. One of the Linnahall
more exciting features include some pretty freaky Built for the Olympics in 1980, this event centre and port
floor-windows that youre encouraged to jump on is a perfect example of a much-criticised Soviet building
and you can take full advantage of streaking skyward practice - overuse of concrete. The hall can best be de-
in the lightning-fast elevators. At a height of 175m scribed as a cross between a parking garage and a some-
their observation deck is the highest in Northern Eu- what flattened Mayan pyramid. Linnahall is easy to visit by
rope. Try out the EdgeWalk on the deck, which just foot since its so close to the centre. We suggest you hurry
might possibly be among the most extreme activities though, its crumbling rather fast.QF4, Mere pst. 20.
youve ever done, even though youre attached to the
structure by safety harnesses. To celebrate 25 years of Museum Hotel Viru and the KGB
re-independence, the activity tour For years, stories have been circulating about how one
August 1991 will be available for side of the first foreign owned and operated hotel in Tal-
visit until November 30. Take bus linn during Soviet times was completely wired up so that
N34A or 38 from the Viru Keskus the KGB could listen in on foreign and local guests con-
bus terminal on Narva mnt. to Tele- versations. When the iron curtain finally fell, those staffing
torn stop.QKloostrimetsa 58a, tel. the room destroyed or took with them what they could
(+372) 59 11 93 35/(+372) 686 30 and high-tailed it back to Mother Russia. Now the room
05, www.teletorn.ee. Open 10:00 is open to the public and exists exactly the way they left it,
- 19:00. Admission 10 per per including an ashtray and Soviet-era cigarette butts. Sokos
son, family ticket 21. After 19:00 also fixed up another adjacent room which serves as a
restaurant admission 3. A joint kind of time-capsule to Soviet hotel history. The museum,
ticket for the Tallinn Botanical albeit small, is certainly worth a visit for both tourists and
Garden and TV Tower is 13. See locals alike.QC4, Viru vljak 4 (Original Sokos Hotel
website for further admission info. Viru), tel. (+372) 680 93 00, https://www.sokoshotels.

36 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing
A joint ticket for the Tallinn Botanical Garden and TV
Great outdoors Tower is 13. See website for further admission info.
Estonian Open Air Museum
Put on your hiking boots! This outdoor museum includes Tallinn Zoo (Loomaaed)
a whopping 70 buildings, mostly farm-related, sprawled Tallinns animal garden boasts one of the most impres-
out across 70ha of forest and land in Rocca al Mare, on the sive collections of exotic species in Northern Europe. In
shore of the Kopli Gulf. There are even a couple of wind- addition to extensive outside exhibits including birds
mills, some sheep, pigs, chickens, and you can also take of prey, a Siberian tiger and polar bears, you can check
a ride on the horse-drawn waggon or sleigh - depending out the Elephant and Rhinoceros House, which also fea-
on the weather. Informative signs in Estonian, Russian, En- ture loads of snakes and pigmy hippos, or duck into the
glish and German guide you through 150 years of farming steamy, crocodile and chimp-filled Tropical House. The
history. Sample the pea soup and other traditional and Amur leopards are also must-sees as they are critically en-
hearty foods at the Kolu Inn (Kolu Krts). Take bus N21 or dangered - Tallinn Zoo is a very important and successful
21b from the Viru stop to the Rocca al Mare stop.QK7, part of their international breeding program. Make sure to
Vabahumuuseumi tee 12, tel. (+372) 654 91 00/(+372) also top by the Tallinn In Your Pocket sponsored Bennetts
654 91 01, www.evm.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission wallabies, located near the domestic yaks. A newly built
6. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Environmental Education Centre, Childrens Zoo and a
Museum is 17 and it may be used on separate days. caf can be found near the main gate at Ehitajate tee 150.
Take bus N21, 21b, 22, 41, 41b or 42 from Vabaduse Square
Tallinn Botanical Garden to the Zoo stop.QK7, Paldiski mnt. 145, tel. (+372) 694
With the richest collection of live plants in Estonia, the gar- 33 00, www.tallinnzoo.ee. Ticket office is open 09:00
dens are a well-kept secret. Around 8,000 species are ar- - 15:00, in October 09:00 - 17:00. Indoor expositions
ranged on 123ha of land, with large modern greenhouses (Tropical house, Elephant house) and Childrens Zoo
where you can find displays of tropical, subtropical and 10:00 - 16:00, in October 10:00 - 18:00, closed Mon. You
desert plants. Take bus N34A or 38 to the Kloostrimetsa are allowed to wander the zoo 2 hours after the ticket
stop. October 15 - 23: The Stars of Plant World; November office closes. Admission 4. Family and childrens prices
19 - 27: Magic plants.QKloostrimetsa tee 52, tel. (+372) available too. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo
606 26 66, www.tallinnbotanicgarden.org. Open 11:00 and Open Air Museum is 17 and it may be used on
- 17:00, Greenhouses open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 5. separate days.

COME AND MEET


TALLINNS WILDLIFE!

TALLINN ZOO: Paldiski mnt. 145/ Ehitajate tee 150 Tel (+372) 6 94 33 00, www.tallinnzoo.ee.
Transport: from Centre of City - trolley 6, bus 22 (Zoo stop); from Baltic Railway Station - trolley 7, bus
21 (Zoo stop). If coming by car, prefer the entrance at the main gate at Ehitajate tee 150.

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 37


Sightseeing
l marks the spot
Look for two long cobblestones
that make the letter L in the corner
of Town Hall Square nearest the
Raeapteek. This spot marks one
of the more bizarre tales from Tal-
linns medieval history. In the late
1600s, so the story goes, a priest
named Panicke walked into an inn
and ordered an omelette. What he got was hard as
the sole of a shoe, so he sent it back. The next two
that the waitress brought were even worse, and after Kadriorg Palace
an argument, the priest decided to make his point by
killing the waitress with an axe. For this unusually vi-
olent crime, the priest was swiftly hauled out to the Kadriorg area
square and beheaded, and the spot was marked for Just a short westerly hike along Narva mnt. brings you to
the convenience of future tourguides. one of the most beautiful districts in all of Tallinn. Kadriorg
is home to magnificent parks and gardens, the Presidential
Palace and several art museums. Tram N3 will also get you
tallinns founding legend there. Once youve arrived, nearly everything you want to
see is located conveniently on, or just next to, the same
Stick around Tallinn long enough and youre bound to short stretch of Weizenbergi. The park also has its own info
hear the name Kalev bandied about. There are count- kiosk located at Weizenbergi 33 across from the Swan Pond.
less Kalev sports teams and theres even a Kalev brand And if you get hungry or need a boost, we recommend to
of chocolate. But just who was this Kalev person? check out the the Italian Taverna del Gallo Nero (see p. 55)
or the popular Gourmet Coffee (see p.66).
Kalev is in fact a mythical giant from Tallinns distant past
who is credited with founding the city. As the story goes, Kadriorg Palace
Kalev was sailing the seas looking for a spot to land and Italian master architect Niccolo Michetti designed this
establish a kingdom. Eventually a prophecy led him to magnificent, Northern Baroque palace in 1718 at the
what is now Estonias capital. Upon Kalevs death, his request of Russian Tsar Peter the Great, who intended
wife Linda was so stricken with grief that she over-did his to use it as a summer residence for the royal family. The
burial mound, piling enough stones on his grave to form emperor named the estate for his wife Catherine I (Cath-
Toompea hill, which to this day looms over Old Town. erine is Kadri in Estonian), hence the name of the area.
When the contentious Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral was The palace is now home to the Kadriorg Art Museum. In
built on the hill at the beginning of the 20th century, a addition to perusing the nations collection of foreign art,
rumour was spread that Kalevs ghost would haunt anyo- visitors get to see the mind-bogglingly ornate Great Hall,
ne who interfered with the construction. Nobody did. and the room upstairs that served as presidents office in
the 1930s. Dont miss the lavish manicured gardens, out
Arguably an even more important figure in the Estonian back.QG5, Weizenbergi 37, tel. (+372) 606 64 00, www.
tradition is Kalevs son, Kalevipoeg. Tales of Kalevipoegs kadriorumuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 -
adventures were set down in the form of an epic poem 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5.50.
of the same name by Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald and
published in 1857. At the time Estonia was undergoing a Kadriorg Park Museum & Library
literary and cultural awakening, and Kalevipoeg became This small museum is dedicated to the parks history, as
both a fo- well as to the architecture of other parks around Estonia.
cal point Changing exhibits and a library.QG5, Weizenbergi 26,
for natio- tel. (+372) 601 31 83, www.kadriorupark.ee. Open 10:00
nal iden- - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admisson free.
tit y and
a maj o r Kumu
step in Estonias largest art museum makes its home in this enor-
founding mous, cutting-edge facility built into a limestone cliff in
an Estoni- Kadriorg. It serves as both a national gallery, displaying
an literary treasured works from Estonias past, and as a contempo-
tradition. rary art gallery, showing the latest trends. While here, be
sure to explore the fascinating complex, built by Finnish
38 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
architect Pekka Vapaavuori. See the Kumu listing in the artefacts from his interesting life.QG6, Mekalda 2, tel.
Culture & Events section for more info about ongoing (+372) 601 31 36, www.linnamuuseum.ee/peetrimaja.
exhibits.QG6, Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tel. (+372) 602 Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2.
60 00, www.kumu.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 -
20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6. Presidential Palace
For a few years during Estonias first period of indepen-
Park and Swan Pond dence (1918 - 1940), the Estonian head of state worked out
The entire leafy of the Kadriorg Palace, but in 1938, this purpose-built pres-
park northeast idential palace was opened next to it, just up the hill. The
of Weizenbergi is Presidential Palaces style echoes the Kadriorg, albeit with-
criss-crossed with out quite so much flourish. Since the building once again
paths, perfect for a serves as the Presidents office and residence, its closed to
wandering visitor. visitors, but you can still wander into the parking area for a
The forest includes better view and, if your timing is lucky, youll see the hon-
several horse our guards marching out front.QG6, Weizenbergi 39.
chestnuts planted
here in 1722 that Russalka monument
were supposed to This striking sculpture of an angel
be replanted later in St. Petersburg, but never were. The facing out into the sea horizon is
most visited spot here is the nicely renovated Swan Pond, a memorial to the 177 men of the
an artificial, rectangular pond with a picturesque gazebo Russalka, a Russian military ship that
in the middle. It looks like something out of a Chekhov tragically sunk while en route to
play, and is a required stop on any tour of Kadriorg.QG5. Helsinki in 1893. Created by famed
Estonian sculptor A.H. Adamson,
Peter The Great House Museum the monument has become a Tal-
This humble little cottages claim to fame is that this was linn landmark and a traditional spot
where Russian Tsar Peter the Great stayed during his vis- for Russian couples to lay flowers on
its to Tallinn before his Kadriorg Palace was complete. In their wedding day.QG6, Across
fact its still filled with Peters furniture, portraits and other Narva mnt., by the shore.

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 39


Viimsi - The Great Coastal Getaway
Visitors looking for a Getting there: Take bus N1A to Viimsi from the Viru
chance to escape the city Centres underground bus terminal (C-4) and get off at
and experience Estonias Viimsi vallamaja stop. Walk back to the main road and
famous natural beauty, turn right, another 50m and it will be the large yellow
have a fantastic option building on your left.QMisa tee 1, Viimsi, tel. (+372)
within easy reach: Viimsi. 621 74 10, www.esm.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
This tranquil peninsula Mon, Tue. Free admission, temporary exhibitions 2.
just across Tallinns border An in-depth and guided tour can be had for groups
to the north is loved for for price 7 - 35.
its rocky coastline, sand
beaches and lush forests. Museum of Coastal Folk
An antique bus serves as the signpost for this fantas-
Viimsi has much more in store though - it offers several tic little museum, housed in the type of historic, red
intriguing museums that focus on traditional coastal cul- wooden schoolhouse traditionally used in the coastal
ture, some great hiking and biking trails, great restaurants Swedish areas of Estonia. The main aim of the museum is
and spas. It also has its own, unforgettable island getaways to highlight how important the sea has been to the peo-
in the form of Naissaar, a long-time military outpost, and ple of Estonia throughout the ages. From fishing to seal
Prangli, a place for seal watching and tuning into a centur- hunting to trade, Estonian-dwellers have long utilised
ies-old island vibe. the sea and her strategic geographic position between
East and West. Permanent exhibits include an introduc-
Getting there & getting around tion to the Kirov Fishing Collective that dominated Viimsi
life in the Soviet era. The temporary exhibit, Silverwhit-
Exploration of the peninsula is easiest by car, or even by bike, est, inspired by the works of writer, ethnographer and
but public transport is also an option. Reaching Viimsi is easy. former president Lennart Meri, showcases the so-called
Departing every 15 - 20 minutes, bus N1A makes the half- Fenno-Baltic economic heyday of the 11th and 12th cen-
hour trip from the terminal under Tallinns Viru Centre to the turies. Till the end of the year runs special exhibition A
central Viimsi Keskus stop. Alternatively, bus N114 leaves Sea Without Borders. The museum also features a great
roughly hourly from the Hobujaama stop on Narva mnt. kids play area and a gift-shop thats loaded with intrigu-
serving the most built-up areas before continuing to the ing finds.
tip of the peninsula at Rohuneeme. Within Viimsi, bus lines
(numbered V1 to V7) operated by GoBus will connect you to Getting there: Take bus N114 from Narva mnt. at Hobu-
the villages. See www.peatus.ee for the schedules. jaama or Pronksi stop, the ride takes about 30 min, and
get off at the Rannarahva stop. Walk back a bit and the
museum is on the left.QNurme tee 3, Pringi, Viimsi, tel.
What to see (+372) 606 69 41, www.rannarahvamuuseum.ee. Open
Estonian War Museum - General 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Admission 3. Joint
Laidoner Museum ticket 5 (Open Air Museum and Museum of Coastal
Housed in Viimsi Manor, the former home of Johan Folk).
Laidoner who was perhaps the most influential war hero
in Estonian history, the Estonian War Museum is a great Viimsi Open Air Museum
place to start if youd like to learn more about this countrys This quaint little open air museum offers a peek at what
history. Over hundreds of years, Estonia has had troops life was like throughout the ages in coastal areas of Esto-
fighting on its soil from Denmark, Sweden, Germany, nia. Here you can find a collection of seaside-farmhouses
Poland, Russia and has even hosted a fair share of Viking spanning 150 years and even enter many of the buildings.
battles. Inside youll find all sorts of displays and info on It also features a great little fishing shed and a cellar of il-
the various wars Estonia has been involved in, as well as legal spirits among many other structures. Great view of
exhibits on the role the countrys armed forces currently Tallinn as well across the bay. Throughout the year they
play around the world as a member of NATO. The exhibi- host various cultural programmes and events as well as
tion Cold War and weapons can also be seen here. a great farmers market every Saturday and Sunday from
10:00 - 14:00.

Getting there: Take bus N114 from Narva mnt. at Hobu-


jaama or Pronksi stop and get off at the Rannarahva
stop. Walk about 500m and museum is on the left by
the sea.QRohuneeme tee 51, Pringi, Viimsi, tel. (+372)
606 69 52, www.rannarahvamuuseum.ee/viimsi-
vabaohumuuseum/. Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 17:00. Admission 3. Joint ticket 5 (Open Air Museum
and Museum of Coastal Folk).
40 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Viimsi - The Great Coastal Getaway
Peetri Pizza
After a day traipsing around Viimsi, pizza is always a great
idea. Part of the Estonian chain, this Peetri offers tasty piz-
zas for decent prices and youre guaranteed not to walk
away hungry. There are a total of 22 pizzas on offer and
come in either thin-crust or pan varieties. Available for
dine-in or takeaway.QRandvere tee 9/9a, Viimsi, tel.
(+372) 604 86 00, www.peetripizza.ee. Open 11:00 -
22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. . LSW

Rannarestoran Paat
Where to eat Paat is the Estonian word for boat and once you see this
Please refer to the Restaurants section for the explanation uniquely designed, beach-side establishment in the Viimsi
of the symbols. area north of Tallinn - youll understand where it gets its
name. The menu includes classical seafood items, meat
Bollywood Viimsi dishes and creative vegetarian options. Many of the ingre-
Located in the heart of Viimsi - this Asian restaurant has dients used here come from local fishermen and farmers.
excellent service, delicious exotic dishes and a stylish Perhaps one of the biggest highlights of dining at Paat is
atmosphere. The Indian, Thai and Chinese dishes are all the great view of Tallinn across the sea. To get here catch
prepared quite nicely and can easily amount to a feast in minibus N260 behind the Estonia theatre at the Viru bus
no time if your not too careful - therefore we recommend stop and ask the driver to stop at Paat.QRohuneeme tee
dining with a friend. The spice is just right at Bollywood - 53, tel. (+372) 609 08 40, www.paat.ee. Open 12:00 -
but if you want to turn up the heat a bit more feel free to 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. . T6ULESW
ask.QRandvere tee 9, Haabneeme, tel. (+372) 629 92 00,
www.bollywood.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - Subway
23:00. . T6LSW Located quite centrally in the Viimsi Centre, Subway offers
a fairly inexpensive and fresh way to fill your belly. For
NOA those unfamiliar with the international sandwich chain,
Voted one of the 50 Best Restaurants of Estonia for you can expect a huge choice of ingredients, various buns
2015, the stylish Noa certainly makes for a great dining and either hot or cold options as a base - theres even
experience. The expertly prepared menu (separated into some vegetarian choices as well. Subway is really a great
vegetarian, seafood and meat) consists of Nordic and in- choice for those looking for an alternative to the usual fast
ternational influences - all done up with a twist or two. food options.QSpruse tee 15, Haabneeme, tel. (+372)
This restaurant, which can be described as both rustic and 629 92 10, www.subway.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. S
modern, is so popular in fact that its recommended to
reserve a table well in advance. Just one more reason to
make the trip to Viimsi.QRanna tee 3, tel. (+372) 508 05 Where to stay
89, www.noaresto.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 Please refer to the Hotels section for the explanation of the
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. . L symbols.

Lavendel Spa Hotel


discover the nature Located in the ever-growing Viimsi area, just north of the
city limits. Super-modern lobby hides Caf Lavendel, offer-
RMK Viimsi Nature Centre ing buffet breakfast and lunch on workdays and a confer-
This nature centre, run by RMK (Estonian State Forest ence room. The smartly decorated rooms are fully equipped
Management Centre) is located in a heritage stable build- with all the amenities one could hope for and guests are
ing and surrounded by the beautiful nature of Viimsi. The invited to pamper themselves at the full-service beauty sa-
interactive centre offers the visitor plenty of information lon. The spa, complimentary for guests of the hotel, features
not just about the natural areas in Viimsi, but also covers almost more sauna variations than one can count - a tra-
Estonias nature and forested areas in general. Here one ditional Estonian smoke sauna, a salt steam sauna, a steam
can learn about the different recreational activities avail- sauna and relax sauna. Naturally they also feature a small
able around the country, the important work that RMK pool with jets to simulate, calming sea waves and two hot
does, as well as discover interesting facts on the various tubs with varying temperatures according to your comfort
plant and wildlife which are so abundant in Estonia. Guar- level. Children under the age of fourteen are also welcome
anteed to be of interest for both nature lovers and urban in the spa between 09:00 and 18:00. More details can be
dwellers alike.QRohuneeme tee 29, Haabneeme, tel. found on their website.QSpruse tee 9, Viimsi, tel. (+372)
(+372) 676 78 42, www.loodusegakoos.ee. Open 10:00 603 59 00, fax (+372) 603 59 01, www.spahotellavendel.
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. ee. singles 49- 69, doubles 56- 89, triples 89- 119
Extra bed 25. ZHLGKDCW
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 41
Leisure
Apart from the usual, boring sightseeing tours there are
loads of other activities available in Tallinn. And as Tallinn
has increasingly become a destination for families, we list
plenty of things to do and see that will intrigue both young
and old alike - for the tourist it can be a bit of a chore to fig-
ure out just where best to take the kids and what activities
will keep them occupied.

Activities for families


Increasingly Tallinn has become a destination for families
and while there are plenty of things to do and see that will
intrigue both young and old alike - for the tourist it can be ee. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
a bit of a chore to figure out just where best to take the kids - 22:00. 1 hour ticket 5, 3 hour ticket 8. Daily pass is
and what activities will keep them occupied. Here you can 12, daily pass for the family 25.
find a list of extra child-friendly activities.
Kalev Spa Water Park
Elamusgolf Located right downtown, this fully-equipped indoor water
Featuring the first and only adventure golf centre in the park provides a whole host of wet entertainment. Besides
Baltics - this is mini-golf taken to the extreme.Its hard to its three water slides, it has a 50m lap pool, an upstream
imagine a jungle in the middle of Tallinn, but this 15-hole swimming pool, kids pool and play area, saunas, hot tubs
mini golf course allows players to both experience a wicked and a caf. For a 2.5 hour visit, the price for children up
tropical setting, equipped with dazzling visual and sound to 6 years of age is 3, adults 12.90 and a family ticket (2
effects and Inca-inspired themes throughout. This is a great adults plus up to 3 children) is 43. Daily and 1.5 hour ad-
way to pass the time with friends or family and certainly mission also available.QB3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 70,
a great adventure. They are also available for company or www.kalevspa.ee/veekeskus. Open 06:45 - 22:30, Sat,
private events.QD2, Vabaduse vljak 9, tel. (+372) 58 66 Sun 08:00 - 22:30.
84 40, www.elamusgolf.eu. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Fri 14:00
- 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Skypark
Although geared towards kids, this one-stop-shop of leap-
Energy Discovery Centre ing thrills is an adventure for the whole family. The main
Based in a renovated 101-year-old power plant building just attraction here is a 250m2 trampoline court (consisting of
opposite Old Town and the first of its kind in the Baltics, the 14 floor and 9 wall trampolines), that is in all likelihood the
Energy Discovery Centre is a leading institution in the field largest in the whole of Europe. Add to it a large foam-cube
of science, technology, engineering and math education in pool, five fantastic party rooms, a massive jungle gym and
Estonia. The building houses unique historic devices from a whack of wacky tricycles, skateboards, sumo outfits and
these fields and more than 130 hands-on exhibits dealing youre pretty much guaranteed the time of your life. Youll
with themes such as electricity, renewable energy sources, also be able to rent the place out for private events and
magnetics nuclear energy, sound and optics. Perhaps one theres a snack bar so you can fuel up on caffeine, or sugar,
of the coolest exhibits will actually allow the visitor to expe- which we all know helps us to jump higher.QJ2, Prnu
rience lighting - up close and personal, via the Tesla Trans- mnt. 139e, tel. (+372) 656 84 00, www.skypark.ee. Open
former. They also have a virtual planetarium, interesting 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Daily pass 7.50,
theatre programmes and some great workshops. Through family ticket 21. Inquire about group rates. W
the end of the year exhibitions Spider the Architect and
Mole the Engineer and Treasures of the Layered
Earth.QA3, Phja pst. 29, tel. (+372) 620 90 20, www. bowling & billiards
energiakeskus.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -
19:00. Admission 9, family ticket 25. Kuulsaal
This ultra-modern, ultra-cool, two-storey club offers
Happy Fly Trampoline Centre the closest bowling to Old Town. Try their blacklight
You can jump your heart out at the Happy Fly trampo- system for a cosmic effect. 12 lanes 13.50 - 21.90/hr.
line centre - actually quite literally you could do just that, They also offer seven pool tables, including snooker
it almost happened to us the last time we visited. The and Russian billiards for 4.50 - 6.50 per hour.QB4,
things we do for our kids. Not just a mere jumpers heaven Mere pst. 6, tel. (+372) 661 66 82, www.kuulsaal.
though, Happy Fly also features a pretty great indoor ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 -
playground, air-hockey table and a bunch of rather large 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00, Also at: Spruse pst. 15, Vi
bouncy balls. It doubles as a kids party rental place as imsi, tel. (+372) 605 11 01, viimsi@kuulsaal.ee. Open
well, with three separate theme rooms on the upper floor. 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
QVilde tee 150, tel. (+372) 552 15 10, www.happy-fly.
42 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Leisure
Adventure & Travel Culture
Adventure Rooms Annkris Glass
Adventure Rooms is a real life escape game where If you are fascinated by glass or just would like to keep
groups of 2-6 players are locked in a secret room from your hands busy for a couple of hours, then the courses
which they must try to escape using common sense offered by Annkris Glass might just be your thing. They
and the tools available. Try your hand at two different offer several workshops including etching and engraving,
games: The Original Game and The Black Queen. Tiffany technique angel and spruce tree design as well as
Teams have 60 minutes to complete the challenge. glass melting. Prices and courses vary but the minimum
Booking in advance is necessary.QI3, Tatari 64, tel. number of participants is 6 so make sure to bring all your
(+372) 521 53 21, www.adventurerooms.ee. Game friends and make some new ones if you have to. Must be
costs 65. booked in advance, see website for details.QI3, Veerenni
24D, tel. (+372) 56 56 64 42/(+372) 56 48 11 21, www.
Fun in Tallinn ak-glass.ee/courses.
Fun in Tallinn specialises in activities and adventures
for small groups. Book things like shooting, racing, pub Asuur Ceramics
crawls, and more! Many activities can even be booked on Located inside one of Tallinns medieval defence towers
the same day and transportation to and from your hotel - Asuur might just be one of the most unique ceramic
can be arranged as well.Qtel. (+372) 53 46 40 60, www. boutiques/workshops around. The artists use different
funintallinn.com. styles and techniques to create unique work, reflecting
personal interests. Regular ceramics courses are held on
Megazone Mondays and Tuesdays.QB2, Kooli 7, tel. (+372) 646 40
Various laser games, indoor adventure trail and rock- 96, www.asuurkeraamika.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
climbing. See website for details.QI4, Tartu mnt. 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
80D, tel. (+372) 621 66 01/(+372) 53 45 67 00, www.
megazone.ee. Open 16:00 - 21:00, Fri 16:00 - 22:00, Sat Ceramics Studio
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 5 - 6/game. 60 minutes For a truly personal souvenir of Tallinn you might want to
of adventure trail 15. N check out this ceramics studio which offers lessons every
week to those interested in such things. Lessons are be-
SPK Paintball tween 1.5-2hrs in length and cost a mere 15 per person.
This outfit has an onsite shooting area as well as a few offsite Its also possible to order private lessons for groups of up to
areas outside Tallinn, such as forests, old military bases etc. 10 people, see website for details.QC3, Vene 6, tel. (+372)
Equipment rental at their onsite facilities and 500 paint-balls 644 02 36, www.keraamikakoda.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
cost 20. For groups of 30 or more the instructor is free of
charge.QNarva mnt. 133, tel. (+372) 524 54 84/(+372) 524 Kalev Masters Chamber
78 78, www.spk.ee. Located in the loft above the Kalev candy shop in the Roter-
manni Quarter, the Master Chamber provides guests with
bike rental the opportunity to create their own marzipan figurines
or decorate their own fine chocolates. What could make
16 Hostel bike rental a better memory of your time in Tallinn than something
Not only do they offer cheap hostel rooms but now sweet, created by your own hands - of course, whether or
you can also rent a bike from them for the same price not it ends up being a good memory probably depends
as a room night - if you borrow it for the full day. Pretty on your artistic abilities or lack there of. Workshops are
steep cash deposit for the bike though, so you might available for a minimum of four guests and arrangements
need to sell some of your stash to ride their wheels. should be made ahead of time by phone, by e-mail or
QC3, Munga 4, tel. (+372) 507 47 66, www.16eur. even in person. Prices vary depending on how many peo-
ee. 1 hour for 2 and 24 hours for 16. ple are in your group.QB4, Roseni 7 (Rotermann Court
yard), tel. (+372) 54 55 58 86/(+372) 54 52 58 29, www.
City Bike Tours kalev.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Bicycle tours of Old Town, Pirita and Kadriorg. Custom-
ised tours are available, in addition to the daily Welcome The Marzipan Museum
Tours of Tallinn. Tours leave from the City Bike office in Not just a museum dedicated to the sugary, moldable al-
Old Town, Vene 33. Hotel pick-up by arrangement. Tan- mond paste - its a great place for the kids to keep their
dem bikes also available for those that just cant bare to hands busy creating their own marzipan figurines, dino-
be apart from one another.QB3, Vene 33, tel. (+372) saurs and airplanes - the sky is literally the limit in terms
511 18 19, www.citybike.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Wel of what they can create. For a mere 4 per person kids
come to Tallinn Bike Tour 19, price includes rental, both young and young at heart can build their own sweet
equipment, tour and a refreshing drink. souvenirs.QC3, Pikk 40, tel. (+372) 646 06 26, www.
martsipan.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 43
Restaurants
In Tallinn it seems they grant a new restaurant licence every
week and sometimes we do miss one, but weve tried our SYMBOL key
best to have an accurate list by print time. Although chan-
ging for the better, be aware that in many cases youll have T Child-friendly J Old Town location
to seat yourself, so dont wait around like a dummy - just
grab an available seat and youll eventually be brought a 6 Pets allowed U Facilities for the disabled
menu. In pubs, youll likely need to order and pay at the bar. E Live music X Smoking area
Service in the centre is nearly always English-speaking and
foreign-language menus are the rule - although, the words S Take-away V Home delivery
may not always be spelled correctly. VAT (20%) is always
L Free parking N Payment in cash only
included and a gratuity should never be added to the bill.
W Wifi
American
First it was Italian, then sushi, then Italian again - now it Route 13 Grill
seems that American is the new eatery trend in Tallinn with This American-style restaurant/night-spot is certainly aim-
new locales popping up everywhere. Not that we mind, we ing to become the best eatery in its class in Tallinn. Weve
just hope someone nails the proper Yankee food experi- actually had some good conversations with the owners
ence down completely. and theyre quite committed to getting everything just
right in order to make this the best American-style locale
Chicago 1933 in Estonia. From what weve experienced so far, Route 13
Kind of an upscale American-style restaurant, this stylish just might become a lucky number. We quite enjoyed their
eatery certainly has more than a few Yankee favourites on burger last time we stopped by and the wings had just the
the menu and the atmosphere reminds of an old-fashioned right amount of bite.QD2, Suur-Karja 13, tel. (+372) 680
Speakeasy. The burger is still perhaps one of the best in 76 17. Open 11:00 - 03:00, Thu 11:00 - 04:00, Fri 11:00 -
the city and the steak we ate here was also top-notch in 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. . JXW
our books. Great smoking lounge upstairs as well and live
music many evenings.QC3, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 66, Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina
www.chicago.ee. Open Mon, Tue 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu Beer ads, steer horns, cactus and rowdy conversation - this bar
12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 screams Texas so loud you might think youve walked into
- 24:00. . JUEXSW one of those old roadhouse movies. Thankfully the ambience
is more rock and blues than twangy two-step. The long menu
is mostly U.S. -style Tex-Mex (Cadillac nachos, quesadillas, etc)
with other things like hot wings, Texas potato salad and a
decent selection of vegetarian items thrown in. Not all dishes
are as authentic as the Alamo, but enough are to make this
a decent destination for homesick Yanks.QB3, Pikk 43, tel.
(+372) 631 17 55, www.texas.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 01:00. . J6IESW

Asian
Bollywood
This slash-Indian-Asian place in Tallinn is actually quite de-
cent and usually fills up in the evening hours. The name and
dcor are decidedly Indian but they offer a plethora of Chi-
nese and Thai samplings for those that prefer crispy or co-
co-nutty over chutney. As is the norm for the genre, mains
come with rice and can usually feed two - as long as an ap-
petiser has been ordered.QB2, Pikk 31, tel. (+372) 644 24
45, www.bollywood.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. . TJ6VXSW

Chedi
Call it a swank, upscale restaurant with an Asian menu, or an
Asian restaurant done up to the nines. In either case, what
youll get at Chedi is a sleek, novel dining experience that
fuses East Asian and Western trends. This is where Thai Pike
Perch meets lamb chop in chocolate sauce, and the qual-
44 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
crispy cod served with lightly pickled vegetables. With an
price guide excellent price-quality ratio, you can come here to share
quite a few dishes without making a big hole in your wal-
Based on the average price of a main course. let.QG4, Rotermanni 2, tel. (+372) 56 87 88 86, www.
tasteofasia.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat
Up to 7 euros 8 - 13 euros 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. . S
14 - 19 euros Over 20 euros
Wok to Walk
Part of a European chain that began in the Netherlands and
ity is always top-notch. The only hiccup here is the service, inspired by Asian street food vendors, Wok to Walk takes a
which can at times be sluggish.QB3, Sulevimgi 1, tel. slightly different approach to the chain concept. The food
(+372) 646 16 76, www.chedi.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, here is locally sourced where possible and convenient in the
Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. . JS fresh casual style and cooked right in front of you. Dine in
or take out depending on your preference and the options
The Monk of wok-style cuisine are seemingly endless. Theres also a
This fairly straight forward Asian-style restaurant mixes a lot huge amount of choice for vegetarians, vegans and those
of different flavours from the continent, but mainly focuses who have allergies to certain foods.QC4, Vana-Viru 14, tel.
on the cuisines of China and India. All in all our experience (+372) 444 33 20, www.woktowalk.com. Open 10:00 -
was pretty decent. If you have a hankering for Asian cuisine 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. . J6SW
and want to leave with a full belly, this place certainly fills
that niche.QC2, Nunne 7, tel. (+372) 675 55 90. Open Wu Wei
11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. . JSW The idea behind Wu Wei is to keep it delicious, stylish and
simple. While the menu isnt overly large, theres pretty
new much something for everyone to savour. From rice paper
TOA - Taste Of Asia shrimp spring rolls, to wasabi soup and slow roasted pork
This new addition to the Rotermanni area offers a selec- belly - the dishes are all delightfully prepared and satisfying.
tion of Asian dishes in a beautifully designed refurbished Their 18 Dim Sum brunch on Sundays comes served with a
warehouse space. Sit on the main floor and watch all the glass of Prosecco and is certainly worth trying.QG3, Suur-
action in the kitchen, while TOAs team of chefs prepare Patarei 2, tel. (+372) 58 42 00 03, www.wuwei.ee. Open
your meal. We quite enjoyed the tofu spring rolls and the 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. . 6ULSW

WOK TO WALK TALLIN: Vana Viru tn 14,10148.


Sunday - Thursday 10.00 AM - 11:00 PM
Friday - Saturday 10:00 AM - 04:00 AM
Pick up service! Tel. +372 444 33 20 woktowalk.com

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 45


Restaurants
gastropub
Clayhills Gastropub
The first of its kind in Estonia, Clayhills Gastropub has
raised the bar high. With executive chef Argo Ots at
the kitchens helm, the fresh cuisine is more along
the lines of a Michelin Star restaurant than that of
a pub. Fortunately you wont have to pay Michelin
level prices. The rich interior is heavily garnished with
leather and the cellar is well stocked with quality
beers and wines alike. The service also comes with a
smile and the atmosphere is brimming with warmth.
QC2, Pikk 13, tel. (+372) 641 93 12, www.clayhills.
ee. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. .
J6 E W

Chinese
If youre a big Chinese food fan, unfortunately, Tallinn is not
one of the better places in the Northern Hemisphere to
indulge in your fix. There are however a couple of decent
places, sadly, none of them are that centrally located.

China Inn
Located smack dab in the middle of Viru street, this 100%
Chinese cellar-restaurant has all the makings of a tourist
trap, and has certainly been sliding in that direction as of
late. The food was pretty decent the last time we ate here -
Caucasian but some of the dishes are a little on the expensive side and
Hearty cuisine from Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan be- depending on the time of day, the freshness of your meal
came popular here during Soviet times and continues to may be questionable.QC3, Viru 9, tel. (+372) 648 45 85,
leave its mark on the local culinary scene. www.chinainn.ee. Open 11:00 - 22:00. . JVSW

Georgian Tavern Tbilisi Dao Hua


This Old Town restaurant in Tallinn offers up a real taste When we arrived here the first time, on a Monday, they
of Georgia. The staff of this family restaurant are very wel- were closed to the public - however, a bus-load of Chinese
coming, as is the atmosphere. Youll find all the Georgian nationals got off and filled the oddly located restaurant to
classics such as hinkali (meat dumplings), grilled sashlik the brim. Considering that so many Chinese would want
(meat skewers) and our favourite, hatchapuri (melted to come and eat here, we vowed to come back, even
cheese filled flat-bread) among many others. All dishes are though its a bit off the centre. When we did finally dine
prepared fresh so be prepared to wait a little for your food here, we werent disappointed. The quality was quite good
to arrive. Our only warning is that with all the mouth-wa- and the dishes, primarily from the Sichuan province, were
tering offers on the menu, many including photos, youll authentic. Well certainly be visiting them again.QH4,
be tempted to bite off more than you can chew.QD2, Mardi 1, tel. (+372) 660 60 17, www.daohua.ee. Open
Rtli 18, tel. (+372) 742 28 28, www.tbilisi.ee. Open Tue, Wed, Sun 12:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00.
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. . J6ISW Closed Mon. . TSW

Mane Golden Dragon


Hearty grilled meat dishes, kebabs, warming soups, A long-time favourite among Old Towns local diners, this
dumplings, lots of onions and a cosy atmosphere make little cellar restaurants food quality has suffered mixed
this a decent place to grab some well-prepared Armenian reviews as of late. However, we quite liked it the last time
dishes. As with most restaurants in the category, the way we were here so well let you be the judge. The portion
the menu is set up certainly lends itself well to sharing size of the spring rolls continue to be big enough to feed
with a partner or small group of friends - in fact youll you and 1.3 billion of your closest friends. They now offer
probably want to taste a few different items to get a good a childrens menu as well.QB2/3, Pikk 37, tel. (+372) 631
feel for this style of food.QC2, Lai 6, tel. (+372) 641 84 35 06, www.goldendragon.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. .
40. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. . JS TJIVS
46 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants

INSPIRED BY LOCAL NATURE

restaurant
Monday - closed
Tue-Thu 12:00 - 22:00
Fr-Sat 12:00 - 23:00
Sun 12:00 - 22:00

Kinga 1, Town Hall Square


+372 644 0707
www.dom-restaurant.ee

Estonian - Nouveau style Farm


It used to be that if you walked into an Estonian restaur- Looking into the window of this eatery you might kind
ant in Tallinn, you could expect to find a lot of heavy pork of wonder what on earth is happening here. A table all
dishes on the menu as well as the traditional fare of her- set up with a wild boar and wolf eating dinner enjoying
ring and potatoes, sauerkraut etc. These days, however, wine, they are surrounded by their friends Mrs Fox and
there are two classes of Estonian restaurants - new Esto- Mr Raven. Certainly a scene not likely witnessed before -
nian cuisine and traditional. The new cuisine is usually a but also something that begs you to at least have a peek
fusion of traditional and international cuisines along with inside. The elaborate restaurant is all decked out with
the chefs own vision of what Estonian cuisine should be. bird-cage chandeliers and rustic elements mixed with
These eateries use primarily fresh, local and often organic a certain amount of elegance. The open kitchen allows
ingredients wherever possible. Both have their own merits you to see the chefs at work preparing some delicious
- the traditional cuisine will leave your belly warm and full meals - add to it some great artisan breads and their
and the new will usually be more of a feast for your senses. own craft-beers and the whole thing comes together
quite nicely.QC3, Mrivahe 27B, tel. (+372) 517 32
DOM 61, www.restaurant.farm/. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
Right in the heart of Old Town, this upscale restaurant offers J U I S W
up wonderfully prepared cuisine inspired by nature and the
fresh local ingredients that all Estonians yearn for. Headed up Kaerajaan
by the creative young chef Pavel Gurjanov and his excellent Named after a popular national folk dance, this is an
team, their love for food and all the elements that go into exe- Estonian-themed restaurant with a modern twist. It
cuting and presenting their masterful dishes is quite evident. consists of a caf on the main floor and a slightly more
Despite its often touristic Town Hall Square location, DOM formal restaurant in the top floor. You wont find any
certainly is a cut above most other eateries and aims to please of the traditional, national dishes on the menu, how-
the pallet while keeping the pocket book in mind. Only fitting ever you will be pleased to discover many Estonian
for a restaurant in its class, the wine and drinks list is a pleasure ingredients sporting an haute cuisine style. Check out
to peruse and the unique desserts an absolute delight.QC2, the upstairs toilet for a truly architectural experience.
Kinga 1 (Town Hall Square), tel. (+372) 644 07 07, www. QC2, Raekoja plats 17, tel. (+372) 615 54 00, www.
dom-restaurant.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - kaerajaan.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
23:00. Closed Mon. . J6SW 23:00. . J 6 S W
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 47
Restaurants

Leib Resto ja Aed garlic


Another one of our new favourites, Leib - which means
bread in Estonian, has hit the mark on each of the several Balthasar
occasions weve visited. The service has been stellar, the Beautifully-restored dining rooms in this historic build-
fresh and interesting cuisine has certainly pleased the ing overlooking Town Hall Square provides Balthasar
palate and the atmosphere - is refreshing, for lack of a the perfect aristocratic setting for its refined estab-
better term. One of the owners is always on site and they lishment. It was here that Balthasar Russow wrote
bend over backwards to make sure your experience is the famous Livonian Chronicles. The speciality of
mention-worthy. Fantastic home-made bread and prices the house is garlic, and everything that can be made
that wont leave you broke. Especially great is the lovely with it. The number of bulbs next to each menu item
outdoor dining and childrens sandbox play-area during indicates the level of garlic in the dish. Not all dishes
the warmer months.QB3, Uus 31, tel. (+372) 611 90 26, are heavily garlic-laden though, but a quick look at the
www.leibresto.ee. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00, dessert menu reveals... garlic ice cream? Reservations
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. . PTJ6ISW are recommended.QC2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372)
627 64 00, www.balthasar.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
Mekk . JEW
For modern Estonian cuisine done right, make sure to pay
a visit to the Savoy Boutique hotels culinary gem that is
Mekk. Although the portions are somewhat dietary, the
fare is fresh, prepared imaginatively and the meals come Despite being named for one of Estonias hard-
complete with home-made artisan bread. The service est-to-pronounce vowels, is well worth seeking
was pleasantly welcoming, as were the prices for the out. The atmosphere of stylish, charcoal-coloured
overall experience. We highly recommend the to-die-for furniture, with dove-wing chandeliers overhead add
desserts, which in our opinion belong under glass in an an artistic touch. The equally fashionable menu, pre-
art gallery.QD2/3, Suur-Karja 17, tel. (+372) 680 66 88, pared by chefs Martin Meikas and Ranno Paukson, is
www.mekk.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 17:00 - 23:00. inventive and modern with emphasis on the use of
Closed Sun. . TJ6USW local ingredients. Here you can find mouth-water-
ing moose dishes, home-made reductions and fresh
Nipernaadi seasonal fish.QB4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 661 61
Just a short walk from Old Town, Nipernaadi (named after a 50, www.restoran-o.ee. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed
famous Estonian book character who wandered around the Sun. . SW
country), embodies the spirit of Nouveau Estonian cuisine
by combining fresh, local and organic ingredients - many Trof
of them actually grown or farmed at their very own organic Trof, Norwegian for hunting trophy, offers its guests the
farm at Vihula Manor in Lahemaa National Park. The dishes possibility to sample some local and Nordic cuisine in a
are imaginatively prepared and simple yet elegant. Here youll cosy cellar atmosphere. The menu features well prepared
also find some lovely fruit wines, beers and vodkas, brewed in game, meat and fish dishes from the Baltic and Scandi-
small breweries and distilleries around Estonia. Their attention navian countrysides, lakes and the sea. Youll also be able
to detail is both commendable and excellent - as is the food. sample some local craft beers and enjoy some of their
We suggest you try one of their organic beef dishes, your taste delicious home-made desserts.QB3, Pikk 29 (Meriton
buds will thank-you.QH3, Endla 23 (Kreutzwald Hotel), tel. Old Town Garden Hotel), tel. (+372) 664 88 03, www.
(+372) 666 48 17, www.restonipernaadi.ee. Open 12:00 - tallinnrestaurants.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
22:00. . TULW - 23:00. . JW
48 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
Estonian - Traditional
style
It used to be that if you walked into an Estonian restaur-
ant in Tallinn, you could expect to find a lot of heavy pork
dishes on the menu as well as the traditional fare of her-
ring and potatoes, sauerkraut etc. These days, however,
there are two classes of Estonian restaurants - new Esto-
nian cuisine and traditional. The new cuisine is usually a
fusion of traditional and international cuisines along with
the chefs own vision of what Estonian cuisine should be.
These eateries use primarily fresh, local and often organic
ingredients wherever possible. Both have their own merits
- the traditional cuisine will leave your belly warm and full
and the new will usually be more of a feast for your senses.

Kuldse Notsu Krts


Heaven for pork-lovers, at the Golden Piglet Inn the cooks
even put bacon in the bread! This country-style Estonian
restaurant undeniably caters to the tourist crowd, but we re-
ally liked the bright, folk-art motif. The menu is much more
interesting than the heavy food however, offering such dishes
as the Estonian sausage feast for two get your minds out of
the gutter ladies, or the ever popular crisp pork knuckle with
sauerkraut. Despite the carnivorous theme, a selection of
vegetarian dishes are available for those herbivores out there.
QC2, Dunkri 8, tel. (+372) 628 65 67, www.kuldnenotsu.
ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . J6ISW

Liisu Juures
Set in a historic cellar on Town Hall Square, youll find au-
thentic Estonian food presented in a gourmet fashion at
Liisus Place. Choices such as pork knuckle for 2, served
with sweet and sour red cabbage and braised potatoes are
on offer as are frisky sausages for the kids, all of which can
be enjoyed on the outdoor terrace, weather and season
permitting.QC2, Raekoja plats 13, tel. (+372) 644 19 83,
www.liisujuures.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . JIS

Vanaema Juures
True to its name, Grandmas Place treats its guests to a
warm welcome and a cosy dining room filled with an-
tiques. Take heart that theres no sign of the big, bad wolf
here, though wild boar is occasionally on the menu. Elk
roast is a regular feature and the braised beef cheeks come
highly recommended. Reservations are a good idea for Fri-
day and Saturday evenings.QC2, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel.
(+372) 626 90 80, www.vonkrahl.ee/vanaemajuures/.
Open 12:00 - 22:00. . TJS

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 49


KAR
QUAR
LUXURY SHOPP

Viru

Kuninga
Su
ur-
Ka
rja

e
vah
ri
a
un

M
2
V

Sa
ik
e-
Ka

li
rja

Val
Suur-Kar
ja
Harju

e
V

Van vah
ri
ik

a-P
e-

ost M
Ka

i
rja

Karjavrava 4
square
rivah
e 3
M
G. O
tsa 1
5
Suur-Karja

4
6
.
NT
M
RNU
P

Area is located in sections C/D-2/3 on the Old Town map.


Turn to page 89 for the full list of shops and details. Map data OpenStreetMap contribut
RJA
RTER
PING DISTRICT

1 4

Prnu mnt.10/Suur-Karja 23 Prnu mnt. 10 / Vike-Karja 12


MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

2 5

Valli 4 Prnu mnt.12 / Suur-Karja 20


MON - SAT 10:00 - 19:00, SUN 11:00 - 17:00 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

3 6

Mrivahe 16 Harju 6
MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00
Restaurants
will certainly have you yodelling. Just in case youre not
in the mood for a pounded-flat, breaded and fried meal,
theyve also got a few other meaty mains to choose from
and a Radler on the drink menu was also a plus.QD2,
Rtli 28/30, tel. (+372) 645 00 59, www.schnitzelhaus.
ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . TJ6ISW

Indian
Chakra
If theres one thing you should know about Chakra, its that
the people who envisioned it have a long and successful
history bringing innovation and quality to the local dining
scene. The atmosphere comes complete with authentic,
French often naughty, knick-knacks from India. The food is pre-
Caf Lyon Viru Keskus pared with care, using top-notch ingredients and recipes,
Located just next to the front doors of the Viru Centre, this some of which only the best chefs from the home country
French-style caf is a pretty good bet if youre looking for can pull off. In short, we think that it probably wont be the
cuisine la franaise. Their seasonal menus feature items last time well dine here.QB3, Bremeni kik 1, tel. (+372)
such as quiche, mussels, French onion soup and duck 641 26 15, www.chakra.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
breast. The croissants, pastries and delicious desserts 12:00 - 24:00. . JSW
round out the selections quite nicely and they also offer up
a very nice cup of coffee. Great any time of the day and you Elevant
can also find live music here during the summer.QC4, This is an exceptional Old Town alternative to medieval
Viru vljak 4, tel. (+372) 622 92 97, www.cafelyon.ee. theme restaurants. Beautiful dcor from the entry foyers
Open 08:30 - 23:00, Fri 08:30 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, antique wrought iron staircase to the sparse earthy sheik
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. . ESW furnishings make it a place to linger over your meal. The
sophisticated East meets West style also extends to the
Cest La Vie menu, offering a wide selection of innovative, carefully
One of the most impressive restaurants weve had the prepared Indian and fusion dishes. Adventurous diners
pleasure of reviewing comes in the form of this snazzy should pay particular attention to the meat selection.
cellar venue. From the black and gold 1920s motif to the QC2/3, Vene 5, tel. (+372) 631 31 32, www.elevant.ee.
friendly service and the heated floors, Cest La Vie gets Open 12:00 - 23:00. . J6VSW
top marks. The internationally infused menu contains just
the right amount of Frenchness and the artfully prepared Maharaja
food is more than magnifique. We think its the perfect Of all the Indian restaurants in Tallinn, this old favourite
spot for a romantic dinner or just a classy start to any eve- on Town Hall Square is the most formal and the most in-
ning out.QC2, Suur-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 641 80 48, www. volved - someone even greets you at the door and fusses
cestlavie.ee. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, over you until youre seated. The food here is absolutely
Sun 12:00 - 19:00. . JSW amazing, so if you dont mind the fact that an order of
rice here costs the same as a full meal elsewhere, its a
fine choice. Every detail here is authentic, from the large
German likeness of Vishnu down to the mango chutney.QC2,
Beer House Raekoja plats 13, tel. (+372) 644 43 67, www.maharaja.
In keeping with its beer-drinking theme, the menu at ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . JS
Old Towns only micro brewery lists six different kinds of
sausages alongside all sorts of other foods that go great Spice
with beer - naturally pizza and some juicy grilled items Looking for friendly service in Tallinn? It actually does ex-
are also available. The real reason to stop in though is the ist at Spice, where they serve up a smile alongside fresh,
beer-hall ambience and the unpasteurised, home-made, flavourful and spicy Indian cuisine. If you cant handle the
living beers, which come in seven different varieties. heat, youll also find a decent selection of coco-nutty Thai
QC2, Dunkri 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 22, www.beerhouse. dishes, a bunch of European and some interesting vege-
ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. . tarian offerings. We hear that all the chefs here hail from
JEXSW India, so youre in for a real treat. They also serve break-
fast until 12:00, making this a decent stop for those that
Schnitzel Haus cant make it to their hotel breakfast in time after a night of
Accordion-heavy pop hits, wooden beer hall tables and partying.QC2, Mndi 4 / Pikk 14, tel. (+372) 644 18 18,
vaulted ceilings, come together to form this den of schnit- www.spicerestoran.ee. Open 10:00 - 23:00. . iJ6
zel. The menu consists mainly of... well - schnitzel and they SW
52 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants

BEST-EVER STEAKS.
TO ENJOY

Black Angus beef is the best in the world for


preparing real steaks. Special technologies
of cultivation and forage of bull-calves gives
it excellent marbling and unique taste.
Steaks are prepared in unique chartcoal
furnaces called Josper, made in Spain.

ON VAIN YKSI TODELLINEN


STEAK HOUSE!

Mustan angus-rotuisen naudan liha on


maailman paras vaihtoehto aidon aistin
valmistamiseen. Liha on laidunmaan ja
TALLINN HELSINKI ruokinnan erikoisratkaisun ansiosta hyvin
Viru 22 Etelranta 14 marmoroitunutta ja maultaan ainutlaatuinen.
Tel: +372 661 5518 Tel: +358 (0) 5041 98000 Liharuokamme valmistuvat ainutlaatuisissa
info@steak.ee info@steak. espanjalaisissa Josper-hiiliuuneissa.

International one of the light bites on offer. For a more formal experi-
Caf Margo ence, table cloth napkins and all, the restaurant might just
This little cellar caf has a great location, but is eas- fit the bill - and cost a few too.QC3, Vene 10, tel. (+372)
ily missed if youre not looking for it. The interior has 641 04 00, www.restoran.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
been done up in the Jugenstil-style and is surprisingly 12:00 - 21:00. . J6XW
roomy for a subterranean eatery. The menu focuses
on Estonian, Eastern European and Russian cuisines - Enzo Caf & Restaurant
alongside some international favourites and the prices If youre looking for a fine dining experience with just
are decent considering the proximity to Town Hall the right amount of panache to impress a client or a
Square.QC2, Vanaturu kael 10, tel. (+372) 603 52 55, date, be sure to check out this modern offering in the
www.margo.ee. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - port area. Furnished for crisp comfort and brightened
23:00. . J W by plenty of window space, Enzo is certainly a wel-
coming sight, but its the taste that really shines here
Cru everything from the delicate breads baked in-house
Cru offers up just the same quality and service that you to the inventive, seasonal offerings comes off without
would expect from Ribe and Platz, who also belong to a hitch.QG4, Laeva 2, tel. (+372) 53 01 60 72, www.
the same group of eateries. The interior is stylish, the cui- enzocafe.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Caf open daily
sine creative and the staff are ready to serve you. Portions 12:00 - 18:00. . IL S W
tend to be a little smaller than we personally would like,
but perhaps the extra calories arent needed anyway. We Intermezzo
did however compensate by ordering one of their excel- Located on Old Towns longest street, Intermezzo is an
lent desserts.QC3, Viru 8, tel. (+372) 614 00 85, www. international restaurant, but with a lot of Mediterranean
crurestoran.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . JW influences. The stylish and classic interior alongside the
rather upscale cuisine makes this establishment the kind
Dominic of place to check out if youre looking for a fine dining
The historic Dominic has two different faces - an elegant experience. Its all about the presentation here and the
black & white caf in the front and a luxurious restaurant chefs seem to enjoy what theyre doing.QB2, Pikk 33,
in the back. The caf is a great place to nibble on a slice of tel. (+372) 452 90 05, www.intermezzo.ee. Open 11:00
cake while enjoying a rich espresso or to even indulge in - 23:00. . J
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 53
Restaurants
new
ORO Resto Italian
Oro Resto is one of the few places on Toompea to get a Due, perhaps in part, to the influx of Italian men who have
meal, and a pretty decent one at that. The chef has worked seemingly migrated to Tallinn because of the rather endless
in Michelin-starred restaurants in both France and Norway supply of long-legged blondes, the city has a plethora eat-
and has created a simple seasonal menu that blends lo- eries in this category. Were not complaining though, both
cal ingredients with French cuisine. Oro Resto also serves the food and the blondes are bella.
a pretty decent breakfast of different kinds of omelettes
and more from 9.00-11.00.QC1, Kiriku pik 4a, tel. (+372) Amalfi
631 38 27, www.olematu.ee. Open 09:00 - 23:00. . This Italian eatery offers up both quality wines and some
TJ6VSW authentic Italian/Mediterranean culinary choices as well
as some great seafood. The quality is quite good and they
Pegasus do have some excellent pastas, pizzas and appetisers to
This stylish and trendy, multi-level restaurant has returned choose from as well. We certainly think its a decent spot
to its former home and generally, people have been for quality cuisine and a glass of wine.QC4, Vana-Viru
pretty pleased with their experience here. We found the 13, tel. (+372) 58 19 19 77, www.feudi.ee. Open 12:00 -
service to be top-notch, the cuisine fresh and creatively 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. . J
prepared and the atmosphere quite chic. We did think
the portion sizes were perhaps a little on the light side, Basiilik Pizza & Pasta
but this gives one a good excuse to sample a few of their Truly an unexpected find. Though not quite rivalling the
offerings.QC2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 662 30 13, www. best Italian cuisine in town, for a restaurant thats in a
restoranpegasus.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - giant cinema house, Basiilik is surprisingly high-quality.
24:00. . J6SW Soups, pastas and other mains are served by friendly staff
in a nicer-than-average dining room. Crowds ebb and
Restaurant Kompass flow according to the film schedule and their all-you-
Fairly centrally located inside the Park Inn by Radisson can-eat, pizza and soup buffet times, which run Mon-Fri
Central Tallinn hotel, this roomy restaurant offers several 11:30-15:00.QC4, Hobujaama 5, in Coca-Cola Plaza, tel.
dining options. The most popular seems to be the buffet- (+372) 56 50 99 91, www.basiilik.ee. Open 11:30 - 23:00,
style lunch where you can choose from a wide variety of Also at: H/I-5, Tartu mnt. 87, tel. (+372) 56 20 21 17.
fresh and local, as well as international cuisines. You can Open 11:00 - 22:00. . SW
even pay per item or opt for one of the multi-course meals.
Naturally they also have an la carte menu which gives Bocca
the chefs a chance to really show off their talents.QG4, A smart, slick establishment where youd expect to run
Narva mnt. 7C, tel. (+372) 633 98 11, www.parkinn.com/ into super-chic members of Tallinns A-list, or maybe a
hotel-centraltallinn/restaurants-and-bars. Open 06:30 supermodel or two. Bocca delivers formal, professional
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. . UESW service and an inventive array of pastas and filletos (fil-
lets), all under the watchful eye of award-winning chef
Schlssle Bistro Nicolo Tanda. Make reservations on weekends.QB3,
After renovations, Schlssle Hotel has developed a bistro Olevimgi 9, tel. (+372) 611 72 90, www.bocca.ee.
menu, in addition to their regular restaurant menu. Served Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
either inside in the dining room or outside in the lush sum- . J I S W
mer garden, the smaller and less expensive menu offers an
excellent selection of light meals along with some heart- Caff Centrale
ier dishes. We were quite happy with our chicken caesar The idea behind this Italian place is simple - to offer deli-
and burger.QC3, Phavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 cious, but simple cuisine for people who like to relax and
77 80, www.schloesslehotel.com/restaurant/tallinn- enjoy life. The atmosphere is stylish but equally relaxed
restaurant/. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . JIXW and the friendly staff are also quite happy to make sure
you feel at home. As of recently though, they seem to be
Spot a little more interested in your money than in your expe-
Smiling friendly faces, great food and a stylish interior that rience. Still not a bad spot though for a light bite or a cold
combines a mix of history and modernity are all features beverage.QC2, Kullasepa 4, tel. (+372) 517 32 65. Open
of this three-floor eatery located just off the main Viru 10:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. . JSW
strip. Fresh ingredients, creative treatment of the cuisine,
attention to detail and a great wine list make this a de- Controvento
cent choice for a nice lunch or more intimate dinner. Great Decorated in a cosy combination of medieval Estonian
outdoor courtyard and terrace during the warmer months. and rustic Italian, this stylish eatery has been a favourite
QC3, Vene 4, tel. (+372) 600 49 77, www.restoranspot. of expats and locals for years, and deservedly so. The food
ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 here is absolutely top notch, with excellent pastas and
- 22:00. . J beef dishes complemented by a good selection of Italian
54 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants

wine. Its featured in every tourist guidebook, so be sure Trattoria del Gallo Nero
to make reservations.QC3, Vene 12/Katariina kik, tel. This Italian-owned Trattoria on Lai street has a lot of charm,
(+372) 644 04 70, www.controvento.ee. Open 12:00 - warmth and authentic Italian cuisine at reasonable prices.
22:45. . JISW Our meal was pleasantly well prepared and filled with
amore. All in all, a decent place to dine or hang out just
Pulcinella wrapped around a glass of wine. They offer a wide variety
Certainly one of the few actual delights weve had the of Italian specialities as well as bottles of Italian crushed
pleasure of reviewing as of late, this very authentic, Nea- and fermented noble grapes. It can get full on weekends
politan cellar-restaurant pulls all the stops to give you the or when an influx of tourists in town so a reservation is
complete experience. From the native chefs and owner to certainly recommended.QB2, Lai 32, tel. (+372) 646 40
the sprawling miniature scene complete with running wa- 10, www.trattoriagallonero.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
ter, we quite enjoyed the ambiance. The cuisine was also Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. . J6SW
delightful and our pizza one of the best weve had in Tal-
linn. There are so many layers to explore at Pulcinella and Vapiano
we look forward to going back to discover them all.QC2, Vapiano is a European chain of fresh-casual concept restau-
Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 56 22 96 91, www.pulcinella.ee. rants where the tantalising food is prepared right before
Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. . JSW your very eyes. When you arrive at the door youre greeted
and given a plastic card, then proceed to the open kitchen
Taverna del Gallo Nero area or bar where you can place your orders (pasta, salad/
Located in the beautiful Kadriorg area (see page 38), just antipasti, pizza, drinks) and the items are charged to the
across from the swan pond, this Taverna aims to provide card. The majority of mouth-watering food items are fresh
the most authentic Italian cuisine one could hope to find and home-made. Thats right - fresh, pastas are dispatched
in Tallinn. Although their focus is on pastas and Tuscan quite quickly, the pizza doesnt take too long either, but
dishes, their menu is filled with so much Italian goodness youll be given a pager that vibrates and blinks when your
that it would be virtually impossible to not find something pizza is piping hot. The prices are delightfully affordable and
that meets your fancy. The atmosphere is cosy, the staff the food bella! QG4, Hobujaama 10, tel. (+372) 682 90
friendly, the wine list extensive and the overall experi- 10, www.vapiano.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
ence could be described as a nice little slice of Italy.QG5, - 24:00. Also at: D/E-3/4 Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre),
Poska 45, tel. (+372) 601 33 44, www.tavernagallonero. solaris@vapiano.ee, tel. 628 59 98. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri,
com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. . SW Sat 11:00 - 24:00. . T6USW
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 55
Restaurants
sushi
Sushi is currently quite popular in Tallinn these days
and the number of places that offer the Japanese street
food have sky-rocketed. Here is a list of just some of the
many spots around town offering sushi these days.

Oishii Sushi
You spin me right round baby right round... okay, well
stop there. This fast-food sushi place is the only one of
its kind in the city and even though the chefs arent
from Japan, or Korea, the quality was actually quite Japanese
decent. The items are all laid-out on a conveyor belt or MoMo - Japanese Gourmet Store and Caf
kaiten, the plates are colour-coded for price and thats This popular and authentic Japanese caf serves up a few
pretty much it. Six-piece maki run 1.80 - 5.40 and delicious daily dishes, but primarily operates as a Japanese
nigiri 4 - 8.10.QH4, Rvala pst. 5, tel. (+372) 648 14 food portal where one can find over 200 different prod-
17. Open 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. S ucts in which to turn your own kitchen into a Japanese
restaurant. Theyll even offer you advise on how to pre-
Silk Sushi Bar pare various dishes.QH5, Kunderi 29, tel. (+372) 687 11
The largest chain of Japanese and sushi eateries Silk, 50/(+372) 58 50 08 25, www.momoya.eu. Open 11:00
also operates this sushi bar - conveniently located in - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. . 6SW
this central shopping centre. Eight-piece maki run
7.50 - 19, nigiri 2 - 5.50, and combos range 15.50 - OZO
55.QC4, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 610 Upon entering OZO, it feels more like a nightclub than a
15 81, www.silk.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00. USW Japanese restaurant, with loud music blaring from its
dark back room. Take a seat in the modern and sleek front
Sushi Cat atrium, complete with its own living wall. The menu offers
The weird and wonderful world of Japanese pop culture a degustation for two, including some wine, or choose
roars at Sushi Cat, a bright, upbeat caf where the dcor, from a selection of hot and cold dishes, as well as sushi.
and even the waitresses, are done up like sexy manga The fish was fresh and dishes were beautifully presented.
characters wearing mini skirts and cat ears. Settle into a QC4, Vana-Viru 13, tel. (+372) 53 55 88 55, www.ozo.
pink seat and watch the bewildering music videos. Its ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. . J
far more casual and affordable than its rivals - the su-
shi comes in variously-priced sets, ranging from kitten Tokumaru
to lion, all of which include green tea and miso soup. If youre looking for something a little different than the
QH3, Roosikrantsi 16, tel. (+372) 503 09 11, www. usual fare, this stylish Japanese restaurant in the centre is
sushicat.ee. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri 11:30 - 23:00, Sat both authentic and tasty. They offer a full range of ramen
12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. . T6VSW soups, sushi, and other Japanese specialities such as tem-
pura - perhaps the best thing about this eatery though are
Sushi Plaza the prices and value for money combos. Great daily offers
A short walk from Viru Keskus will find you at this sushi as well.QD3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372)
bar - the relaxed atmosphere and price per portion ratio 57 70 24 05, www.tokumaru.ee. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri,
is certainly to be commended and the quality of their Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. . 6SW
various offerings is generally quite good. Their menu con-
sists primarily of various maki rolls, but they also offer a
few nigiris, as well as a some traditional soups including Korean
the ever popular miso varieties.QG4, Narva mnt. 6, tel. Gotsu
(+372) 53 33 26 99, www.sushiplaza.ee. Open 11:00 - This little cellar place is a small hike from the centre, but for
23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. VS an authentic Korean experience its pretty much your best
bet in Tallinn. Besides the main eating area they also have a
Zebra Caf traditional Korean dining room where guests are asked to
A little on the pricey end of the chopstick but very pro- remove their shoes when entering, (clean socks and fresh
fessionally prepared, this trendy lounge restaurant of- smelling feet would be highly recommended). Here youll
fers up eight-piece maki for 3.50 - 12.85, nigiri 1.55 - be able to enjoy their succulent dumplings while on your
3.40 and combos 34.QG4, Narva mnt. 7, tel. (+372) knees. Dishes tend to be on the spicy side so please make
610 92 30, www.zebracafe.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, your preference known when ordering.QI3, Prnu mnt.
Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. VS 62a, tel. (+372) 614 00 22, www.gotsu.ee. Open 12:00 -
20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . 6VSW
56 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
middle eastern vegetarian
Magnuna Vegetarianism has now begun to make small inroads
Not to be confused with the title of the Eurovision into the local dining culture. Specifically vegetarian
song Maganuna, which was just frightening - this restaurants are few, and often its hard to find anything
Asian/Middle Eastern restaurant is actually quite de- that doesnt involve the ever-present pork chop.
cent. They currently side more with the Middle Eastern
way when it comes to their menu and apparently their Kohvik Inspiratsioon
chefs have globe-trotted to Tallinn from places such This little vegetarian and vegan caf, of which there
as Afghanistan, the Sudan and Lebanon. Given the are very few in this primarily meat-eating city, offers
current political situations in all of those countries, we up fresh and healthy dishes for those that prefer to
cant say that we blame them. Best to come here with stay away from carnivorous cuisines. Both the prices
a small group and share the various dishes.QC2, Pikk and staff are friendly as is the atmosphere. Also a great
35, tel. (+372) 682 95 80, www.magnuna.ee. Open spot if you want the Old Town dining experience with-
11:00 - 23:00. . JUSW out the hustle and bustle of places closer to the main
square.QB2/3, Lai 44, tel. (+372) 58 51 62 32, www.
kohvikinspiratsioon.ee. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. . J6SW
Meaty choices
Goodwin The Steak House Vegan Restoran V
Goodwin has tried hard to be the best steakhouse in Tallinn Sure, V fills a niche, but people dont come here just
and it probably is, even though its really the only one. The because its vegan, they come because its good. We
interior is rich and woody, the service is efficient and the im- found the service helpful, the medieval-meets-rus-
ported cuts of beef are excellent. If a full-on beef-fest is a lit- tic dcor charming and the prices friendly, especially
tle too heavy, you could always drop by during the week for for Old Town. It was the food itself we liked the best
their business lunch specials, but lets be honest, is a big slab though, with inventive dishes like chickpea burgers and
of beef ever too much.QC3, Viru 22, tel. (+372) 661 55 chilli sin carne that were surprisingly filling. Small and
18, www.steak.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . J6SW popular, so book a table in advance.QC2, Rataskaevu
12, tel. (+372) 626 90 87, www.veganrestoran.ee.
Grill 250 Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. . J6
We like it hot,hot,hot! Grill 250 certainly offers up a great
deal of delectable meaty dishes all very nicely prepared and spartan - cellar venue cooks up a small selection of typical
satisfying for any discerning meat lover. From the half-metre meat and fish dishes. Service is fast and food is actually
sausages, youll need to share this one, to the aged steaks - pretty good, but if you do decide to eat here we suggest
everything we tried here was adequately tasty and fulfilling. you do so during the patio season.QC3, Vana-Viru 12, tel.
An excellent and unique selection of beers are also available (+372) 631 35 07, www.kuluaar.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00,
on or off tap. In case youre not that into red meat - they Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. . J6IW
have some tasty, vegetarian friendly dishes as well.QH3,
Toompuiestee 27/Paldiski mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 628 81 53, Meat & Wine
www.parkinn.com/hotel-meriton-tallinn. Open 15:00 - At Meat & Wine they certainly take their meat seriously.
23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00, Lunch buffet Mon - Fri from Cooked in the premium Josper oven, their aged beef
12:00 to 15:00. . UW comes all the way from Uruguay and the quality is cer-
tainly top-notch. If steak is not your thing though, they
Grillhaus Daube have a lot going on in the menu that should satisfy most
A huge step up from the typical throw-the-pork-on- appetites. Quite a decent selection of wines as well. Pretty
the-fire grill house, Daube is a roomy, two-floor affair much the only downside is that side-dishes cost extra.
decorated in a warm style thats the very definition of QC3, Vike - Karja 1, tel. (+372) 56 48 53 34, www.
smart casual. The meat here is quite delicious and well meatwine.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
prepared - they also offer seafood for those not into red . JXSW
meat. Expect smiling service and happy taste buds. Find
it in a nicely redone little house just off Harju street.QD2, Munga Kelder
Rtli 11, tel. (+372) 645 55 31, www.daube.ee. Open Overtly geared toward tourists, the Monks Cellar is es-
12:00 - 23:00. . J6ISW sentially a basement bar turned upscale by the clever
use of table linen and glasses. Meat and fish dishes are
Kuluaar served up along with awful, saxophone versions of 70s
The sign outside offering pippuripihvi + olut (Finnish hits. The salmon in foil was mediocre and the service
for peppersteak and beer) tells you all you need to know indifferent.QC3, Vene 12, tel. (+372) 644 46 14, www.
about Kuluaars target market. This modern - and earily mungakelder.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . JI
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 57
Restaurants

Oliver
A diligent, carved wooden waiter spends all day long on Medieval
Viru tnav trying to entice people into this cellar restaurant, Maikrahv
where meaty items like entrecote and steak dominate the Named for the May Count of Tallinns medieval days
menu. Weve heard a few good reviews about the food of yore, this respectable establishment hidden under
and service as of late and the kids play area and eight-page Town Hall Square hints at old-style regality all the
childrens menu certainly make this a good stop for fami- while providing a decidedly modern and down-to-
lies.QC3, Viru 3, tel. (+372) 630 78 98/(+372) 53 47 47 41, earth dining experience that wont bust your bud-
www.oliver.ee. Open 10:00 - 24:00. . TJISW get. The menu is international, dominated by fillets
with a couple of pastas thrown in for good measure.
Revalia Restaurant Delicately prepared food and professional service
With its enviable location right on Old Towns main square, made the experience come off without a hitch.QC2,
Revalia is never wanting for customers. The interior dcor Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 631 42 27/(+372) 55 51
makes it look a bit like an art shop, but theres no mistaking 45 17, www.maikrahv.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
the menu - tenderloin steaks and other grill items of the type J E S
that are popular around this part of Europe.QC2, Raekoja
plats 8, tel. (+372) 631 39 22, www.restaurantrevalia.ee. Olde Hansa
Open 08:00 - 01:00. . JS Many frequent travellers would say that you havent re-
ally been to Tallinn unless youve visited Olde Hansa. This
Tommi Grill Metro Mecca of mediaevalism in the heart of Old Town doesnt
This oddly located grill actually surprised us - and in a just serve historically authentic fare made from carefully
good way. Although we had to order at the bar, service researched recipes, it provides guests with a whole ex-
was snappy, of the friendly variety and the food was over- perience using a combination of candlelight, waiters and
all to our liking. We suggest you stick with the grilled meat waitresses in period costume and medieval background
choices though as it seems to be what they do best. Keep music. Chamber musicians round out the ambience every
in mind that they can get busy during lunch hour. QC4, night of the week. Just around the corner at Vanaturu kael,
Viru vljak 2, tel. (+372) 662 20 99, www.tommigrill.ee. dine in the newly opened medieval courtyard of Olde
Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Also at: I-2, Hansa Hortus.QC2, Vana turg 1, tel. (+372) 627 90 20,
Tatari 64, tel. 625 78 16. Open 10:00 - 07:00, Sat, Sun www.oldehansa.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. . J6
12:00 - 07:00. . S UIE
58 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
Peppersack
Peppersack makes wonderful use of the 15th-century
building it calls home - both the vast main hall and the
more intimate rooms further back exude comfy medie-
val-ness. The menu is European-based and fun-loving,
with clever choices like Lady Margaretas weakness
(chicken fillet) and Mansion Lords contemplation (duck
fillet). The fresh, hot rolls are a nice touch. Every day
around 20:00 theres a theatrical sword fight on the
staircase.QC2/3, Viru 2, tel. (+372) 646 68 00, www.
peppersack.ee. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.
. J 6 W

Mediterranean
Admiral Mexican & tex mex
A meal at this smart restaurant built into an old steam Amarillo
ship, has to be one of the most unforgettable dining Bright, friendly colours, hot (spicy) food, and a professional
experiences in town. The service and atmosphere here outlook set Amarillo a notch or two above most other Tex
harken back to times when a luxury sea voyage was the -Mex contenders. Other Yankee choices such as burgers
height of class. Youre also encouraged to check out are as available as quesadillas and fajitas. The vast dining
the multitude of old photos, model ships and seafar- area and large kids play corner, make this restaurant on
ing memorabilia that grace the interior. The impres- the ground floor of the Original Sokos Viru Hotel a great
sive view of Tallinn harbour through the portholes is choice for families, while two bars cater to an after-work
unquestionably 100% Estonian, but the menu here is or after shopping crowd, as is often the case.QC4, Viru
actually more Mediterranean and delightfully prepared vljak 4, tel. (+372) 680 92 80, www.amarillo.ee. Open
by their chefs. If that werent enough youll also be 11:00 - 24:00. . TULES
treated to a complimentary shot of Admirals pepper
vodka with your meal.QG4, Lootsi 15, tel. (+372) 662 Ancho
37 77, www.aurulaev-admiral.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. This eatery is right up there in terms of quality and they
. TL X S happen to care a lot about the end result - ie. tasty and
rather authentic Mexican cuisine. If you have a hanker-
Butelli ing for this type of food then Ancho is probably your
This family owned and operated medieval cellar restaurant best bet in Old Town. The Jalapeno poppers were both
is quite Italian in feel and certainly quite Italian in terms of crispy and juicy the last time we popped in and the fa-
cuisine, however it has enough Mediterranean influences jitas were very tasty. They also serve food late on Friday
to fit into this category. The cuisine, pretty much an equal and Saturday nights which is a bonus when bar-hopping.
mix of seafood and red meat, is lovingly prepared, full of QC3, Mrivahe 17, tel. (+372) 660 04 98, www.ancho.
flavour and the service makes the customer feel welcome. ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. . J6
We quite enjoyed our entrecote, home-made buns and SW
their large selection of wines - of which they also have
quite an excellent knowledge.QC2, Dunkri 6, tel. (+372) Taco
58 60 09 91. Open 12:00 - 22:00. J Beware of the hot sauce! Its twice as hot coming out. Al-
though not overly authentic, Taco certainly does fill a niche
seafood a certain niche in Tallinn. Theyve got loads of pseudo
Mexican choices available, in different combinations and
Kalambuur with varying degrees of heat. They also offer pizzas, a fair
The brainchild of one of Estonias most famous fisher- amount of vegetarian items and a few breakfast choices,
men, Vladislav Korets and his family, this tiny and very including the ever popular breakfast burrito. All aboard
cosy seafood restaurant certainly hits the spot. The the Taco, lets see where it takes us.QD2, Suur-Karja 18,
quality is very good, the prices not too high and the tel. (+372) 682 55 08, www.taco.ee. Open 11:00 - 07:00.
cuisine is prepared superbly. Our blinis with caviar were . J6SW
some of the best weve ever had and the fish and chips
were fresh and crunchy. Well certainly be back for more
fishy goodness as they frequently offer new and excit-
ing items.QH3, Toompuiestee 8, tel. (+372) 56 69 41
94, www.kalambuur.ee. Open 17:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 PASTA I PIZZA I BAR
- 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. . S
CHECK IT OUT ON PAGE 55

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 59


Restaurants
theme restaurants Russian
Babulja
Korsaar More of a meat restaurant with a Russian feel and spirit,
Avast mateys! If youve ever dreamed of running away Babulja is an upscale eatery with delicious food and at-
to become a pirate or a wench, nows your chance. This tentive service. The interior is fancy enough to make you
stunning pirate-themed restaurant goes way beyond feel like getting dressed to impress, but laid back enough
anything weve ever seen in terms of attention to detail that you wont feel uncomfortable dining while wearing
and authenticity. From gangplanks to shark tanks, this jeans and a pullover. The cuisine is fabulously prepared
subterranean grotto has everything covered. The inter- and certainly doesnt disguise its Russian heart. We tried
national food is equally fantastic, with leanings on the several dishes - but the beautifully marbled, ribeye steak
seafood side of the port bow. Itll certainly set you back and the homemade pelmeeni dumplings left us feeling
a few clams to get the most out your experience here, very satisfied to say the least. From Wednesday through
but the voyage is well worth it.QC2, Dunkri 5 (Beer Saturday the kitchen is also open late.QC3, Prnu mnt.
House), tel. (+372) 666 8064, www.korsaar.ee. Open 2, tel. (+372) 502 47 52, www.babulja.ee. Open Mon,
12:00 - 24:00. . JXW Tue 17:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. . TJ6SW
Turg
The name in Estonian means market and thats ex- Caf Pushkin
actly what this theatricaly-decorated cellar restaurant While many other Russian places are geared towards
looks like inside - a classic, outdoor market square, tourists, Caf Pushkin, just next door to scenic Kadriorg,is
complete with overhanging eves, a tree, chirping birds where the local Russians, including politicos and celebs,
and some faux produce. That doesnt mean you can come to eat. The bliny (pancakes) are said to be the best
haggle over menu prices though. The food on offer in the city. A long list of other Russian favourites is on offer,
tends towards the Eastern European with a few Italian including the triple ukha (fish soup) and the Boyar (rolled
pizzas thrown in for good measure. For the frugal try beef stuffed with cherries and walnuts). A great spot if
the lunch buffet on offer Mon to Fri between 11:30 and youre craving good old-fashioned Russian cuisine.QG5,
15:00.QC2, Mndi 3, tel. (+372) 641 24 56, www. Narva mnt. 36, tel. (+372) 631 36 36, www.cafepushkin.
turg.ee. Open 11:30 - 24:00. . JS ee. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 -
23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. . SW

60 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants
Hermitage
Given the way the St. Petersbourg Hotels high-class
restaurant is decorated, it might very well be mistaken
for a Russian oligarchs sitting room. Classic aristocratic
staples of French, Estonian and Russian origin are on of-
fer and are prepared in a way that shows a clever culinary
artist at work. An excellent selection of vodkas and cav-
iar are also par for the course. Our time at Hermitage was
quite civilised to say the least and certainly a treat for those
whom enjoy the finer things in life.QC2, Rataskaevu 7,
tel. (+372) 628 65 60, www.hermitage.ee. Open 17:00 -
23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. . J6ISW

Masha
Located in the port area, Masha is only a short walk away
from Old Town. Although there are several very nice Rus-
sian restaurants closer to Old Town, the warm atmosphere
and friendly service here are certainly worth checking
out. The blini and caviar were admittedly tasty and well
prepared and the other dishes we managed to scope out
were also a feast for the eyes. By all means check it out if
you happen to be in the area.QG4, Lootsi 14, tel. (+372)
600 36 33, www.restoranmasha.ee. Open 12:00 - 21:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. . W

Troika
One of Tallinns must-see cellar restaurants, Troika wows its
clientele with a cosy, old-style Russian dcor and a singer
who belts out folk songs from a balcony from time to time.
(When choosing your table, you may want to consider just of tapas and pinchos should be more than enough to feed
how close you want to be to this spectacle.) But the best a hungry traveller. The menu changes frequently in order
thing about this place is the food - excellent bliny and to keep things interesting.QD3, Vike-Karja 8, tel. (+372)
pelmeni as well as a selection of traditional main courses. 600 77 00, www.selfbaar.com. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Great service. Book ahead.QC2, Raekoja plats 15, tel. Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. . J6SW
(+372) 627 62 45, www.troika.ee. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
. JUIX
Thai
Krua
Spanish One of the few truly Thai places in the city, overall we quite
Although Italian eateries abound in Tallinn - Spanish eat- liked our experience when we last paid them a visit. The food
eries are relatively rare with only a few in the city centre. was fresh, the service helpful and the atmosphere of this lit-
tle cellar eatery was cosy enough to settle in for a while. We
Alter Ego particularly liked the crunchy, shrimp spring rolls.QC4, Va
This heavily Spanish-influenced Mediterranean-style na-Viru 13/ Aia 4, tel. (+372) 646 26 13, www.krua.ee. Open
restaurant is located in the fashionable Rotermanni 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. . JSW
Quarter and has plenty of seating both indoors and out.
At lunch, a very reasonably priced three-course menu Tai Boh
changes weekly, differing in quality. For dinner choose be- More of an Asian fusion place than purely Thai, this restau-
tween appetisers, mains, and tapas, great for sharing over rant slash lounge is funky to the point of being ber-kitsch
a bottle of wine from their well-selected list.QB4, Roseni and the opulent interior alone deserves a look. The menu
8, tel. (+372) 54 56 03 39, www.alterego.ee. Open 11:30 items truly span the Asian world, featuring sushi, dim sum,
- 22:30, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 23:00. . 6USW spicy soups, chilly prawns and several duck dishes. They
even have lobster and Kobe beef - both certainly a real
Self treat for anyone who hasnt tried them. The head chef
A pretty decent spot for a bite or a beverage, this tapas and hails from Thailand and has done a great job of creating
gin bar is both comfortable and fashionable. The ingredi- dishes that please the eye as well as the most discerning of
ents are fresh and authentic, the service friendly and warm taste buds.QC4, Mere pst. 1, tel. (+372) 629 92 18, www.
- and the menu offerings are quite tasty. Their mains are taiboh.com. Open 14:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 01:00.
only available after 5pm - however, their daytime selection Closed Mon. . J6IW
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 61
Restaurants
quick bite quick bite
Cerrito Burrito the works. Great for lunch, a casual dinner or a snack
Pretty decent Mexican food for people on the go. They before or after hitting the clubs.QC3, Aia 10, tel.
offer up a great range of burritos, tacos and more. Gen- (+372) 656 95 68, www.pitas.ee. Open 12:00 - 00:00,
erous servings, fresh ingredients and decent prices Thu 10:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. . JSW
make this a good bet for anyone craving this type of
food.QD4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) Pritsukas - Street FOOD on FIRE
53 50 95 09. Open 11:00 - 21:00. . USW Offering a selection comfort food favourites (burgers,
pulled beef, etc), this street food caf is the latest addi-
Damak Dner & Kebab tion to Tallinns street food craze. Open late at the week-
Damak was actually pleasantly surprising. The Pita Ke- ends, its just the place to come for a late night snack
bab was one of the best weve ever had in Tallinn and after a night out. We tried the fish and chips, which
unlike most kebab places in town they actually offer a were creatively served as fish bites with chips.QC4, Va
yoghurt-garlic sauce. Pretty decent baklava and reason- na-Viru 14, tel. (+372) 56 12 53 99. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
able prices help to make this one of the best kebab op- Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. JS
tions in the city.QD4, Kaubamaja 6, tel. (+372) 58 31
87 41. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. . SW

Dereku Burger Trendy restaurants


Certainly one of the best burgers in Estonia, Derek, an Manna La Roosa
Estonian Canadian has gone through great lengths to Certainly the most interesting restaurant in Old Town,
create the perfect burger - and indeed he still tinkers Manna La Roosa is housed in a historical apothecary and
and tweaks the magic formula to get it just right. The even the artworks and antique furniture is on the menu.
homemade patties are sourced from 100% Estonian With a celebrated chef as the creative force behind the
meat, are truly tasty and also one of the best weve international cuisine and a wacky artist in charge of the
had in this Baltic nation. Decent prices, several meat eclectic interior decorating - La Roosa literally brings a
choices, fresh greens and a variety of special sauces lot to the table. Needless to say, drinking or dining here
all help to make this burger joint a sure bet. Theyve is quite an adventure for pretty much all of your senses.
also partnered up with one of the great Estonian craft Perfect spot for a great lunch, dinner with friends or to just
breweries to help you further enjoy this great burger. simply enjoy some excellent cocktails.QC4, Vana-Viru
QC3, Aia 8, tel. (+372) 55 67 20 10. Open 12:00 - 15, tel. (+372) 620 02 49, www.mannalaroosa.com.
23:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Also at: Open Mon, Tue 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00,
G-3, Telliskivi 62, tel. 56 10 42 80. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. . J6
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. . J6SW
Platz
Diner Everything old is new again - or at least in the Rotermanni
With the layout and decor of a classic American diner, you Quarter it is. Its here youll find this stylish yet elegant eat-
might almost forget youre in Tallinn, except for the Es- ery nestled into an old, industrial limestone building. The
tonian menu. Dont worry, the friendly staff will help you artfully prepared cuisine, is an innovative and fresh fusion
out. Just like in the US, portions are large, with most of the of European flavours using local ingredients whenever
different house-made burgers almost too big to fit in your possible. The service is equally crisp but not too starchy.
mouth, in particular the XXL burger. All ingredients are We quite enjoyed the duck breast and the crme brle
the freshest of fresh and meat comes only from happy on our last visit.QB4, Roseni 7, tel. (+372) 664 50 86,
cows. All in all a good burger. We heard that the chick- www.platz.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
pea burger was one of the best in town too.QVabaduse . T6ESW
pst. 39, tel. (+372) 601 09 07, www.dinerfood.ee. Open
11:00 - 22:00. . LVSW Rataskaevu 16
The service, quality and cosy atmosphere here make it
Pitas worth coming back to. The cuisine is fresh, imaginative
A little more of a fast-casual place than a restaurant, and their home-made artisan bread is in a word - delicious.
this is actually quite an authentic Greek experience Personally we have a few other spots in and around Old
and the food is tasty. We certainly enjoyed the rea- Town that we prefer, however, they do hold the number
sonably priced gyros with great pitas and the proper one spot on Tripadvisor and have a prime location just
meaty fillings. You can order the gyros with or without opposite the Cats Well. Because of this we would advise
fries inside and if you have any other requests about making a reservation. Due to their popularity, theyve just
sauces or fillings, feel free to ask - otherwise youll get opened a second location (serving the exact same menu)
around the corner. All-in-all a decent spot for a meal or
62 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
for a romantic lite-bite and a nice glass of wine.QC2, Ra
taskaevu 16, tel. (+372) 642 40 25, www.rataskaevu16.
ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Also at: C-2,
NIguliste 6, tel. (+372) 601 13 11, vaike@rataskaevu16.ee.
Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. . J6SW

Ribe Von Krahli Aed


This Nordic-style eatery is a good representation of a cur- The Garden is a highly chic establishment with plenty of
rent trend in Tallinn and the food and overall experience opportunity to lounge while enjoying a fresh meal or light
were excellent the last time we ate there. The intriguing snack. The emphasis here is on healthier choices and you
menu items are all artistically presented and the interior can choose from mains that involve spelt, hemp seeds and
design is just pretty as punch. We found the portions a other intriguing additions. They even mark items on the
little on the slim side, nonetheless the ambience, friendly menu that contain gluten, eggs and lactose. We thought
service, fantastic wine list and food made a trip here the pan fried duck breast with black quinoa, pan fried pak
worthwhile.QC3, Vene 7, tel. (+372) 631 30 84, www. choy- red cabbage saute and sweet potato puree were all
ribe.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, From May 8 open also on quite tasty.QC2, Rataskaevu 8, tel. (+372) 626 90 88,
Sundays. . J6W www.vonkrahl.ee/aed/. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00
- 23:00. . J
Sfr
In terms of dcor, this eatery/fashion and wine shop is Zebra Caf
kind of a cross between an old Soviet-era cafeteria and a Zebra offers la carte dining and sushi, with the option
stylishly retro second living room. The New Estonian cui- of a slightly less expensive cafeteria set-up - complete
sine with Italian leanings and the artisan breads certainly with freshly-baked pastries, desserts and a salad bar. The
had us impressed, as did the complimentary (before 4pm) service is excellent, and prices, while they might be a bit
cucumber and citrus infused pitchers of water. Weve higher than elsewhere in the area, are justified by the
already been back for seconds.QC4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. atmosphere and tasty cuisine. Djs lay-down some hot
(+372) 56 99 22 00, www.sfaar.ee. Open 08:00 - 22:00, tracks Friday and Saturday nights.QG3, Narva mnt. 7,
Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. tel. (+372) 610 92 30, www.zebracafe.ee. Open 11:00 -
. T6LSW 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. . VSW

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 63


Restaurants
Gloria
Upscale Gloria has been synonymous with class and style since it
Art Priori opened in 1937, and once you get a look at the intricate, pre-
From the moment you step through the door at Art Priori war interior, youll understand why this was the restaurant of
youre in for a treat. With paintings from the 15th Century choice for the Pope and several visiting heads of state. We
hanging on the walls to the modern fixtures, the style found our meal here a relaxing, well-orchistrated experience.
here blends contemporary with classic and the attention QD2, Mrivahe 2, tel. (+372) 640 68 00, www.gloria.ee.
to detail is truly satisfying. Many upscale restaurants tend Open 12:00 - 23:30, Sat 17:00 - 23:30. . JS
to leave you feeling that you really didnt get enough
value for the money, however, this isnt one of them. From Schlssle restoran
the copious amounts of home-made bread (with spiced Recently renovated, Schlssle Hotels restaurant is combi-
butter), complimentary pate, the unique presentation of nation of old world elegance and modern style. The menu
all menu items and their excellent service - this restaurant focuses on European cuisine with a hint of Asian influence
truly stands out in its category.QB3, Olevimgi 7, tel. in some of the dishes. The chef likes to play with the dishes,
(+372) 600 33 53/(+372) 58 66 55 26, www.artpriori.ee. with many things deconstructed on the plate. We quite
Open 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, liked the truffled goats cheese, which was not only beauti-
Sun. . JW fully plated, but also had a fine balance of flavours and tex-
tures.QC3, Phavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 77 80, www.
Bordoo schloesslehotel.com/restaurant/tallinn-restaurant/.
Estonian for Bordeaux, the Three Sisters restaurant is in a Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. . JIXW
class unto itself. The stylish interior combines a new world
elegance with hints of its old world surroundings. Headed Tchaikovsky
up by an award-winning chef and his energetic team, the Tchaikovsky is a luxury Russian-French-fusion affair ded-
focus here is on fresh local ingredients brought to life with icated to preparing culinary delights reminiscent of fine
creativity and flavourful ideas. To top it all off, they also cuisines from a whole other era. Here youll find flaky
create their very own artisan breads, scrumptious marma- pastry crusts, succulent shrimps and fine wines fit for the
lades and to-die-for desserts. You may also dine or enjoy Tsar, and if youre lucky hell offer to pay as well.QC3,
drinks in the cosy courtyard, weather permitting.QA/B3, Vene 9, Hotel Telegraaf, tel. (+372) 600 06 10, www.
Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. (+372) 630 63 00, www.bordoo.ee. telegraafhotel.com. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00,
Open 12:00 - 22:30. . JW Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. . JUIEW

MODERN EUROPEAN CUISINE

RESTAURANT

Open:
Tue Thu: 12.00 23.00 Bordoo restaurant

Fri Sat: 12.00 last guest The Three Sisters Hotel


Pikk 71 / Tolli 2, Tallinn
Sun: 12.00 23.00
Mon: closed
+372 630 63 00
bordoo@threesistershotel.com
KINGA 1, TOWN HALL SQUARE
www.bordoo.ee
+372 644 07 07
info@dom-restaurant.ee Open: Mon - Sun: 12.00 - 22.30
www.dom-restaurant.ee

64 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com


Cafs
Ranging from full on eateries, to quaint little coffee nooks
that serve up a few pastries and cakes - Tallinn has a lot to
offer if youre looking for a caf. With our comprehensive
list, were sure youll find the right one for you.

Classic cafes
The staple formula of a bunch of little, round tables and a
pastry counter has served Tallinn well for years. Its not that
these places dont have ambience - they do, but theyre
more for grabbing a bite on the run than for settling in.
Anneli Viik - who operates another chocolaterie in Tallinn.
Gustav Caf A decadent feast for the eyes as well as the taste-buds,
If your in the mood for great cakes, pastries or an excellent indulgence is what Mesilatern is all about. Take your de-
cup of coffee - Gustav will probably satisfy your cravings. This lights to go or sit a while with some excellent coffee and a
nice little caf at the bottom of the Solaris Centre treats their friend.QD2, Vana-Posti 2 / Harju 3, tel. (+372) 687 92 42, www.
baked goods with serious respect and they try to put positive anneliviik.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. J6W
thoughts into everything that goes into their ovens. QD3,
Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 672 27 22, www. Reval Caf
gustavcafe.ee. Open 09:00 - 22:00. . 6USW This rustic Old Town caf invites you to stop in for a quick bite
or relax with a good cup of coffee and a piece of cake. Their
Maiasmokk menu offers everything from warm meals to gelato.QC2/3,
Tallinns oldest caf, the Sweet Tooth has been serving Vene 1, tel. (+372) 644 64 73, www.revalcafe.ee. Open 08:00
marzipan and other treats since it opened way back in - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:30 - 21:00, Also at: D-2,
1864. Drop in for elaborate cakes, cheap coffee, and an Mrivahe 14, tel. (+372) 641 81 00. Open Mon - Tue 07:30
amazing, pre-war interior.QC2, Pikk 16, tel. (+372) 646 - 23:00, Wed - Thu 07:30 - 24:00, Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:30 -
40 79, www.kohvikmaiasmokk.ee. Open 08:00 - 21:00, 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. . J6UIESW
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. JS
Saiakang
Mesilatern One of the last of Old Towns simple and cheap cafs. Here
This little caf in Old Town features handmade chocolates youll find plenty of salads, pastries and frugal, old folks.
and truffles as well as handmade candles. All made by QC2, Saiakang 3/5, tel. (+372) 644 30 55, www.saialill.
ee. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. . JS
coffee to go
Troika Caf
Caffeine This stylish Russian caf is conveniently located just on the
As the name would suggest, this Starbucksesque cof- edge of Old Town and serves up great coffee, teas, delicious
fee house is indeed mostly about the coffee. Theres desserts, hearty soups, pastries and some excellent light
enough room to sip a cup here, and the atmosphere is bites as well. The richly decorated interior certainly gives the
stylish enough - although most opt to grab there Joe impression of a Russian tea room and is just one more rea-
and go. Quite decent prices and a variety of cakes and son to pay them a visit.QC4, Mere pst. 5, tel. (+372) 631 37
pastries on offer as well.QC2, Harju 3, www.caffeine. 65, www.troika.ee. Open 10:00 - 22:00. . JS
ee. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00
- 21:00, Also at: C-2, Mndi 3. Open 08:00 - 22:00,
Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Also at: C-4, Va Fashionable
na-Viru 14. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00- 22:00, Sun Tallinns most en vogue cafs all offer full meals as well as
09:00 - 21:00. . JS the satisfaction that youre with the in crowd.

Epic Coffee Art Caf


The quality coffee scene continues to grow in Tallinn This bohemian caf and restaurant certainly warrant the
and Epic Coffee is proof of this. Not only do they know name Art Caf. Its eclectic interior is colourful and cosy with
what a flat white is, they know how to make it. Its also art in every corner, comfortable retro furniture for lounging,
one of the few coffee bars where you will find alter- and an energetic atmosphere with live music in the evenings.
natives to milk, beyond soy.QC3, Mrivahe 36, tel. A short breakfast menu is served until 13.00, after which the a
(+372) 535 182 83, www.epiccoffeeshop.com. Open la carte menu takes over. Portions are generous but not over-
09:00 - 20:00. Also at: D-2, Vabaduse vljak 9 (in the whelming, with a selection of appetisers and main courses
tunnel), tel. (+372) 53 51 82 83. Open 07:30 - 18:30, that are much better than their menu description.QC2, Kul
Sat 08:30 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. . JSW lassepa 13, tel. (+372) 672 73 32, www.art-cafe.ee. Open
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. . TJE
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 65
Cafs
August tallinnrestaurants.ee. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 09:00
This tiny little caf is both quaint and stylish. The menu fea- - 20:00. Also at: H-3, Toompuiestee 27/Paldiski mnt. 4,
tures plenty of all-day breakfast dishes, as well as inventive tel. (+372) 628 81 55, Open 07:00 - 22:00. . TJSW
appetisers and some great sandwiches. With excellent coffee,
an airy atmosphere, and good service, this is a nice place to Caf Mademoiselle Solaris
chill with a friend.QD3, Vike-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 508 60 Long a Tallinn favourite for delicious cakes and desserts
22, www.kohvikaugust.ee. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - and with several locations throughout the city, Made-
02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. . J6SW moiselles flagship location offers all their favourites and a
whole lot more. Located in the Solaris Centre, at the back
Babulja of the Apollo bookshop, this bright and airy space serves
Babulja is a nickname for grandmother in Russian and this up a full menu offering tasty mains such as juicy burgers
nice little caf offers up both the warmth and the good and some great light bites as well. Theyll also feature
food one might expect when visiting a Russian grandma. some live events in the near future.QD3, Estonia pst. 9,
The interior is fashionable yet comfy and the cuisine - truly tel. (+372) 56 64 71 17. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
delicious. We personally fell in love with their great variety of - 22:00. ESW
blinis, truly some of the best weve ever had and also come
available in savoury or sweet renditions. Great place for tea Gourmet Coffee
and dessert as well, or an inspired cocktail. For a full-on din- Perhaps the best thing about this caf is that they both im-
ing experience you should check out their upstairs restau- port and brew their own beans onsite. Nothing says fresh
rant.QC3, Prnu mnt. 2, tel. (+372) 502 47 52, www. better than a truly freshly roasted cup of coffee. This pop-
babulja.ee. Open 08:30 - 02:00, Mon, Tue 08:30 - 23:00, ular locale also serves up a full menu including some great
Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. . TJ6SW breakfast options, but we happen to like it for the cosy
interior and light bites.QG5, L. Koidula 13a, tel. (+372)
Caf Mademoiselle 661 30 35, www.gourmetcoffee.ee. Open 08:00 - 22:00,
Considered for years to be one of Tallinns best places to Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
get a delectable dessert, this classic caf still lives up to its . T6SW
reputation. Along with the many calorie-laden treats on
offer, you can also find a few decent savoury meals and a Kohvik Klaus
couple of breakfast options as well.QB3, Pikk 29 (Meriton Just a short walk from Old Town and next to the monu-
Old Town Garden Hotel), tel. (+372) 664 88 05, www. mental, Soviet-era structure Linnahall, Klaus offers a small

66 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com


Cafs
selection of culinary delights and is both stylish and cosy. new
It also sports a sea-view... well, sort of. Klaus is quite a nice Bona
place for a lite-bite or larger meal, a latte and dessert or a Previously Bonaparte, this caf/bistro has now been
refreshing beverage no matter what time of year - but es- renovated with sleek modern Scandinavian style that
pecially in summer when you can take advantage of their blends well into the 17th-century merchants house
patio, lazily sipping on a Campari soda while enjoying the the restaurant in located in. The menu offers local-
sunshine and watching the massive cruise ships float into ly-inspired continental dishes with portions that wont
the port. Some great breakfast options as well.QF3, Ka leave you hungry. We tried the house-made ravioli,
lasadama 8, tel. (+372) 56 91 90 10, www.klauskohvik. stuffed with porcini and would certainly go back for
ee. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. . W more.QB3, Pikk 45, tel. (+372) 646 44 44, www.
bonaparte.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 -
Must Puudel 01:00. . JS W
The Black Poodle is a funky, retro eatery with a heavy Soviet
living-room feel and a cosy, retro atmosphere that seems Cest La Vie
to be its main draw. The fresh cuisine is kind of a blend be- This swanky establishments 1930s style interior will have
tween trendy and home-style, the prices wont bankrupt you dancing the Charleston. The cuisine certainly has a
you and there are even live entertainment events held French bent to it, and the romantic ambience makes this
some weekends. It certainly can get quite busy during a great choice for a date.QC2, Suur-Karja 5, tel. (+372)
the lunch rush and some evenings, just keep that in mind. 641 80 48, www.cestlavie.ee. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat
QD3, Mrivahe 20, tel. (+372) 505 62 58. Open 09:00 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. J6SW
- 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. . J6ESW
Josephine
Popular & Kk Boheem Brought to you by the same fine chocolatiers as Pierre
This centrally located, popular locale offers a wide variety located in the courtyard just down the street, the atmo-
of light-eats, decent breakfasts and full meals, all prepared sphere at Josephine is quite a bit different a little swankier,
fresh and decently priced. Great spot for people watching, and oh man, you have got to try the handmade chocolate.
especially during the warmer months when their terrace This is not a bad place to indulge your yourself in deca-
opens. On weekend nights it turns into a loungy club of dence.QC3, Vene 16, tel. (+372) 641 82 91, www.pierre.
sorts, offering all the latest beats from genres we havent ee. Open 08:00 - 23:00. JSW
even heard of. Small Hookah lounge in back as well.QC3,
Vana-Viru 6, tel. (+372) 641 45 65. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Kohvik Komeet
Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. This gem of a caf located in the sparklingly modern So-
. JW laris centre has great views, fresh foods and above all, killer
desserts. Did we mention the awesome desserts? Because
Vana Toomas if you come here you should really try some of their excel-
Named after the famous Town Hall weather vane that lent desserts.QD3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel.
can actually be seen from some of the tables here, this (+372) 614 00 90, www.kohvikkomeet.ee. Open 10:00
caf offers fresh baked goods, pizzas, salads and other - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. . T6SW
hearty but healthy dishes. While nothing fancy, the
food is quite decent and they even present respectable Koogel Moogel
and inexpensive breakfast options from 08:30 - 11:00 This cosy caf tucked into a little corner on top of
every day. We dare you to try the cheesecake, you may Toompea certainly makes you feel at home, whether
or may not regret it.QC2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) youre interested in a lite bite, a coffee or a dessert
631 42 27, www.vanatoomas.ee. Open 08:30 - 24:00. - in fact you may even want to have all three. It has
. JS a spacious play-area for the kids and doubles as a
party-room for childrens birthday parties after regu-
lar hours. Great place to take the kids.QC1, Toom-
Stylish & Cosy Kooli 13, tel. (+372) 550 05 52, www.piipjatuut.ee/
These classy establishments are best for long chats with et/kohvik/. Open 10:00 - 15:00, Open from May 20
friends, romantic encounters and discussions about your till September 20. TJ S
next novel.
Pierre Chocolaterie
Bogapott People squeeze into this quaint, frilly, 19th-century style caf
Tucked into part of a medieval town wall on Toompea, for two reasons: One is that it has its own master Chocolatier
the family-run Bogapott is a cosy, otherworldly hideaway. who cooks up truffles from scratch, and the other is the un-
Fresh, flaky pastries and sandwiches are the speciality in beatably cosy atmosphere. Be warned that seats fill up fast
this combination caf, art shop and ceramics studio.QC1, and that during slow times they occasionally close a little early.
Pikk jalg 9, tel. (+372) 631 31 81, www.bogapott.ee. QC3, Vene 6 (in the Masters Courtyard), tel. (+372) 641 80
Open 10:00 - 19:00. JIW 61, www.pierre.ee. Open 08:00 - 23:00. JSW
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 67
Nightlife
SYMBOL key
6 Pets allowed J Old Town location

I Fireplace U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music X Smoking area

S Take-away L Free parking

W Wifi

how to toast in estonian


If you want to get in good with the locals, it never
hurts to learn how to toast in the national language.
Luckily its fairly simple here: Estonians toast by clink-
ing their glasses and saying Terviseks (health). Its
One could get the impression that Estonians are hopeless
crucial, however, that you look your drinking com-
party animals. For a town its size, Tallinn has a suspiciously
panion in the eye just as your glasses are clinking. If
high number of bars and nightclubs. But for foreign
you miss this step, the toast doesnt count and youll
visitors, this just means theres more variety on offer. This
have to start all over!
section is designed to help you pick the nightspot that
suits your mood, whatever that may be. Please keep in
mind that many of the bars, lounges and pubs we have
listed also offer extensive menus and are usually open Estonian style
at noon - making some of them quite viable options for If youre looking for a bit of local flavour, try these.
lunch or dinner.
III Draakon
Tucked into the corner of Tallinns famous Town Hall, this
teensy-weensy tavern has both a historic ambience and
an enviable location. Better still, its owned by Olde Hansa
so its guaranteed to be a great locale to grab a soup, pas-
try or a pint of mead. All drinks are 2-3, food is 1-3 and
brine pickles in the barrel are FREE!QC2, Raekoja plats 1
(Town Hall), tel. (+372) 627 90 20, www.kolmasdraakon.
ee. Open 09:00 - 24:00. JS

Karja Kelder
A well-loved Old Town pub with a more relaxed, local feel
than its expat-oriented neighbours, Karja Kelder is definitely
one to seek out. The variety of cheap beer (and food) makes
it a hit, as do the occasional live bands. One caveat is that it
gets crowded in the evening, necessitating a totalitarian coat-
check policy.QC/D3, Vike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 644 10 08,
www.villemipubid.ee/karja-kelder/. Open 11:00 - 01:00,
Mon, Sun 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. JESW

Valli Baar
The Valli is definitely one Tallinn establishment you need
to check out. Lets just say that it is so full of local colour,
it even had a documentary made about it recently. Its
also a well known fact that attractive blondes often head
here for the house speciality Millimallikas cocktail before
trawling for men over at Club Hollywood. This bar un-
doubtedly makes it seem cool to be a dirty old man.QD2,
Mrivahe 14, tel. (+372) 641 83 79. Open 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JE
68 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
Expat hangouts
Whether or not you consider it a stamp of approval, these
bars and pubs are where Tallinns expats, a fare share of loc-
als that like to speak English and more than a few tourists,
tend to congregate.

Clayhills Gastropub
Serving up gastronomical delights both by day and night,
this is a great place to hang out in a relaxed atmosphere.
Clayhills, situated in the heart of the Old Town offers
up an excellent selection of local and imported beers,
heart-warming and creative pub cuisine and a healthy
dose of live music on weekends. If youre looking for a
more intimate experience, you can check out the cosy
upstairs on the 2nd floor. Watch Tallinn pass you by from
one of the window seats.QC2, Pikk 13, tel. (+372) 641 93
12, www.clayhills.ee. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
02:00. J6EW

Mad Murphys
Mad Murphys is everything youd expect from an Irish Pub
and a whole lot more. Featuring a well-ventilated smok-
ing room, a dance-floor, more large-screens than you can
shake a stick at and some fantastic live music on week-
ends, Murphys can certainly get quite mad any night of
the week. They also serve up an excellent variety of your
favourite pub grub. Great selection of beers on tap. Mur-
phys currently has a whiskey corner and one the largest
selection of whiskeys in Estonia. A sampler menu also
available for the whiskey connoisseur.QC2, Mndi 2, tel.
(+372) 601 10 70, www.madmurphys.ee. Open 10:00 -
04:00. JEXW

Nimeta Baar (The Pub with No Name)


In case the flags hanging out front dont give it away, Ni-
meta is the quintessential expat bar. At times it looks like
something between a British stag party hangout and
an expat boys club, but a good number of locals and
backpacker types make it more interesting, especially on
weekends when DJs get people into the dancing mood. A
good place to watch sports and/or eat pub food.QC/D3,
Suur-Karja 4, tel. (+372) 641 15 15/(+372) 56 49 14 91,
www.nimetabaar.ee. Open 10:00 - 04:00, Wed, Thu
10:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 18+.
JUXW

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 69


Nightlife
mous, cleverly built into a spacious, medieval hall. All offer
Bars & Pubs decent, cheap food, and every fourth Saku Originaal is always
Assorted watering holes, each with its own style. free.QC/D2, Suur-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 641 81 73, www.
patricks.ee. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also
Paparazzi at: G-3, Narva mnt 5, tel: 664 04 43. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Thu
A restaurant by day and club by night, Paparazzi fills the cat- 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. J6W
egory of the latter more. Sheer curtains, golden wallpaper,
and other elements of the decor might have something to Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina
do with this, along with karaoke nights. While we havent Respectably busy (but rarely packed) on a given Friday
had a chance to taste the food, the menu boasts a burger, as night, Tallinns Texas-style cantina is a casual place to knock
well as a selection of meat and pasta dishes.QC3, Viru 18, back a corona while tapping your foot to the twangy coun-
tel. (+372) 57 41 02 22. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - try/rock or old blues played in the stereo. Monster portions
05:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. . J of fries will kill even the worst munchies.QB3, Pikk 43,
tel. (+372) 631 17 55, www.texas.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
new Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. J6IESW
Peemot
All business-like with great paninis during the day, Peemot The Albion Bar & Grill
bar gives way to laid back vibes in the evening. Its singular Located just a few minutes from the Town Hall Square, The
location at the corner of Kunderi and Pronksi underneath Albion Bar & Grill is a pleasant surprise from you average Irish-
the Olympic office block close to the Swisstel and the themed bar. Friendly service and reasonable prices make this
Hilton makes it easy to miss, but once in expect a relaxed unpretentious bar a good stop for some of the better fish and
but upmarket atmosphere and a youngish crowd to chips weve tried in Tallinn, as well as some great wings.QD2,
match. Pop in for great light bites for lunch and come back Harju 7, tel. (+372) 688 81 47. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . J
later for mellow tunes and cool drinks in the late evening.
QH4, Pronksi 19. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, The Highlander
Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. . S The only Scottish pub in Tallinn, this intimate little cellar
venue stocks the largest variety of Scottish beers and the
Route 13 Bar largest selection of whiskeys in Estonia. If you have a han-
Restaurant by day and bar/nightclub after dark, this very kering for some of Scotlands favourite bar foods, youll
lively locale is situated on Old Towns main bar street. The also find them at the Highlander. Deep-fried haggis-baws,
atmosphere has an air of being a bit of a meet market sausage rolls, scotch eggs and deep fried mars bars make
but thats kind of the point. Lots of big screens so you can this the right place if youre planning on throwing your diet
catch the latest premier league matches, special events, into a deep loch. Occasional live music on weekends and
a dance floor, beautiful girls and live music kind of pull it some excellent whiskey based cocktails and moonshine as
altogether. If you have a hankering for some decent Yan- well. Lets get pissed!QC2, Kuninga 1, tel. (+372) 58 83 61
kee-style food, their kitchen is also open late.QD2, Suur- 20, www.highlanderpub.ee. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
Karja 13, tel. (+372) 680 76 17. Open Mon, Tue 11:00 - 12:00 - 07:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. JXW
02:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 07:00, Sat 18:00
- 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. JXW Tommi Grill
Primarily known for its reasonable priced lunches and ex-
Shimo Bar cellent grilled meat (see Meaty choices in the restaurants),
Now in its third, and hopefully final location, Shimo is back Tommi also doubles as a pretty decent and cosy pub for grab-
and on the way to becoming one of those bars where you bing some drinks and appetisers with friends before you hit
just need to stop in at least once on a good night out. Live the town.Q C-4, Viru vljak 2 (Metro Plaza), tel. (+372) 662
DJs host various music theme-nights (from the Doors to 20 99. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Also at: I2,
Sting etc.) on Fridays and Saturdays. Make sure to also try Tatari 64, tel. (+372) 625 78 16, www.tommigrill.ee. Open
one of the patented Rob Shots - definitely an experience. 10:00 - 07:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 07:00. S
Rumour has it that theyll also be serving up some great
pub-grub again soon, we hope that will include the best kskik
home-made chilli poppers ever, but as Shimo has just re- If youre looking for some good, old-fashioned, chill fun
opened, they are still in the process of making it great then this whatever bar has it going on. They dont take
again. Check their Facebook page for further details and up- themselves too seriously - but thats kind of the point. This
coming events.QC2, Vike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 55 61 16 11. is a student dive-bar slash second living room and they
Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. J6ESW serve up decently priced drinks, offer some cool events
and most importantly just a great place to unwind. Afterall
St. Patricks - not everyone is looking for something fancy, sometimes
The name and dcor may be Irish, but the crowds in each you just want a locale where you can do body shots off
of Tallinns four St. Patricks pubs are just about as Estonian a girl you just met.QC2, Pikk 35, tel. (+372) 699 01 30.
as they come. The one here on Suur-Karja is the most fa- Open 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. JS
70 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 71


Nightlife

72 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife
course you can call candle flames roaring. The real treat
beer bars here is being able to choose from 15 draught beers and
A few years ago it was difficult to find beers of exceptional ciders as well as 80+ bottled beers. They have a good
character or quality in Tallinn. A few individuals and estab- selection of Estonian micro-brews, as well as their very
lishments certainly changed that and now its actually hard own red house beer - the recipe was even conceived by
to find a decent bar that doesnt serve up great imports and the owner. Every month they change one or two of their
local craft brews. Some however go the extra mile, if you draught beers, just to shake it up a little.QC2, Rtli 4, tel.
happen to be a beer connoisseur check these places out. (+372) 644 02 32, www.porgu.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. J
Beer House
So, how much German oompah music can you stand?
Just teasing, they do play other beer-drinking favourites Read more reviews online:
as well. This enormous, old-fashioned, Bavarian-style beer tallinn.inyourpocket.com
hall is something of a landmark in Tallinn. That said, the
sprawling restaurant just off Town Hall Square is also Old
Towns only micro brewery, servingseven very decent in Shooter bars
-house varieties of live beer.QC2, Dunkri 5, tel. (+372)
644 22 22, www.beerhouse.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Loads of bars in Old Town offer shots or shooters but
Sat 11:00 - 02:00. JEXSW these places seem to specialise in them.

Drink Bar & Grill new


Although no longer affiliated with Tallinns resident beer-guru, Algoth Distillery and Bar
they still offer a great selection of local and international beers. The only bar in town with its own distillery on-site -
On a typical evening youll find a lively bunch of patrons from Algoth Bar has revived the spirit(s) of an infamous
all over the world; backpackers, locals and ex-pats all seem to Finnish booze smuggler from the Finnish prohibition
congregate here. Whatever category you might fit into youll be era. Here you can sample some fresh hooch, distilled
sure to have feel at home here, imbibing in a drink or other- in the tradition of the early days. Theyve got moon-
wise. Check out their fantastic beer shop, located just around shine aplenty, signature cocktails and naturally shots
the corner.QD3, Vike-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 644 94 33. Open of the straight stuff as well. Fairly soon theyll also be
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. J6W selling some of their liquid wares to take home with
you. Ample dance floor and live music some nights
Hell Hunt will certainly get anyone in the spirit. QG4, Lootsi
If you just want to grab a beer with friends and avoid the 8, www.algoth.ee. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
tourist scene, Hell Hunt (The Gentle Wolf) is probably your
best bet. An open, comfortable drinking establishment Labor Baar
with a strong sense of style, it pulls in the locals by the Labor which means lab in English is pretty much just
droves with its no-nonsense atmosphere. While here, that - theyve got loads of experimental shooters on the
try the pubs own brand of light and dark beers (brewed menu, served in holders containing ten test tubes. If
by Viru lu) or one of their other 130-140 beers. Decent, youd prefer to sip your chemical concoctions, they also
cheap food too.QB3, Pikk 39, tel. (+372) 681 83 33, offer an explosion of other science-themed cocktails, cer-
www.hellhunt.ee. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - tain to please any aspiring drunk, even you got an F in
03:00. J6IEXW chemistry. The lower level acts as a nightclub Wednesday
through Saturday and entrance is free.QC2, Suur-Karja
KwakInn 10, tel. +372) 56 99 41 60. Open 17:00 - 06:00, Mon, Tue,
Part of a St. Petersburg based, Belgian beer bar chain, Sun 19:00 - 06:00, Also at: D-2, Vana-Posti 8. Open Fri
KwakInn has arrived in Tallinn and certainly stocks an ex- - Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Age restriction 18+. JEXW
cellent supply of Belgian beers. The atmosphere is friendly
and the menu features pretty much everything you might new
want to accompany some great beers ie. sausages, gar- Shot Bar
lic breads, fries, burgers and various cured meats and The popular Shot Bar in Helsinki has opened a loca-
cheeses. A small taste of Belgium in Tallinns Old Town. tion here in Tallinn where you can expect the same
QC3, Vene 6, tel. (+372) 682 58 67, www.kwakinn.ru. fun party scene. With more shots to choose from than
Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. J you could possible try in a night (or maybe you can),
you can simply let let the bartender choose for you by
Prgu spinning the shot wheel behind the bar. If youre ter-
A great place to grab a decently prepared bite to eat or rified of doing shots all night, dont worry, they have
an interesting beer, Prgu, or Hell in Estonian, is worth a cocktails and a selection of beer as well.QC3, Sauna
visit. Ironically enough its situated in a cellar but we didnt 10. Open 20:00 - 05:00. . J
notice any roaring fire the last time we visited - unless of
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 73
Nightlife
Scotland Yard
Live entertainment An absolute monster of a pub just outside Old Town, Scotland
Lots of pubs have weekend bands, but some places in par- Yard earns praise for its quaint Victorian-library/police-de-
ticular are known as venues for live music. Caf Amigo (see partment interior, which even includes toilets done up like
clubs) also pulls in some of Estonias best acts. electric chairs! It can get rather busy on weekend nights, so
bring along some patience, grab a seat when you can and
Chicago 1933 slam a few back before heading out to one of the numerous
For some of the finest live blues this side of... well - Chicago, clubs in the area. Live music every Friday and Saturday nights
you can check out this swinging establishment just around starting at 10pm.QB4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 653 51 90,
the corner from the Viru Gates. The interior is all decked out www.scotlandyard.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 -
in rich, dark wood and filled with large booths just like they 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. Free admission. LEW
have in the Windy City.QC3, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 66,
www.chicago.ee. Open Mon, Tue 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu Von Krahl
12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 This down-to-earth pub attached to a local theatre is where
- 24:00. JUEXSW Tallinns alternative bands come to play, and naturally the
crowd tends towards students, hipsters and artsy types. De-
Clazz cent selection of snacks and salads as well.QC2, Rataskaevu
Clazz touts itself as Chill Out Jazz Club With Damn Good 10, tel. (+372) 626 90 90, www.vonkrahl.ee/baar1/. Open
Food. Indeed you can get food all hours of the day or night 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JEW
and for years now it has been one of the most happening
spots in Old Town for live music - practically every night of
the week. Expect a wide variety of local and international
Karaoke
performers, with styles ranging from jazz to Latin and ev- Due to Tallinns proximity to the karaoke-loving nation
erything in between. See website for performance details. of Finland, there are quite a few karaoke spots to be
QC2, Vana turg 2, tel. (+372) 666 00 03, www.clazz.ee. found here. By no means have we listed all the possible
Open 18:00 - 02:00, Mon 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - karaoke venues, but here are a few that specialise in the
03:00. . JEW art of personal embarrassment.

Cubanita Live Caf Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club


A Caribbean/Latin influenced eatery by day - Cubanita re- This cellar karaoke bar/restaurant is stylish and boasts
ally comes alive at night and if youre into Latin rhythms, some pretty expensive equipment. They even have an
this is certainly one of the few spots in Tallinn to get your AST-100, which, to diehard karaoke fans, is pretty much
groove on. Pretty much every night of the week they ei- equal to the best drug ever. The machine comes packed
ther feature live music, salsa classes or other Latin-themed with 35,000 modern hits in various languages such as Rus-
events and often bring in international performers or sian, Estonian, English and Finnish. Who knows, you just
dancers to help make the mood, lets say ... hot, hot, may find your inner Hasselhof or Cher while performing
hot. Extensive cocktail lists give it an even more exotic here.QC2, Lai 5, tel. (+372) 53 41 15 41, www.laif.ee. Open
feel.QG4, Narva mnt. 5, tel. (+372) 664 04 22, www. 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. J
cubanita.ee. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Mon 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. EXW Satumaa Karaoke Bar
Many Finns are pretty much born with the karaoke gene
Philly Joes pre-installed. Satumaa is indeed Finnish-owned and
This little jazz club is what jazz clubs are truly all about. if you truly want the full-on karaoke experience, head
From the cosy, intimate atmosphere to the great music down this alley off Viru on a weekend night for a truly
- its a night well spent. Dont expect a bunch of fancy bizarre time.QC3, Viru 4, tel. (+372) 660 70 60. Open
extras, just smooth grooves and well mixed cocktails. See 12:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. JEX
website for details.QE2, Tatari 4, tel. (+372) 516 01 96,
www.phillyjoes.com/. E new
Shamrock
Rock Cafe Recently moved a block down from its previous lo-
Built into an old factory building just past the citys bus cation, Shamrock is still a favourite among Finnish
station, this minimalist, two-story rock club is decidedly tourists looking for a night of cheap beer and karaoke.
raw and industrial. Live acts - mainly rock but sometimes Dont let the name fool you, its new location, under
blues or funk - are booked every weekend, and the place Musume in the Old Town wall gives more of a sports
boasts one of the best sound systems of any club in Esto- bar vibe than Irish, but the late night parties continue
nia. Enter the courtyard, go right and up the stairs. Please and so does the Finnish karaoke.QC3, Valli 1, tel.
note that you may find them open only when there are live (+372) 660 11 20. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
acts scheduled. See website for details.QI5, Tartu mnt. 04:00. Closed Mon. . J
80d, 3rd floor, www.rockcafe.ee. LEX
74 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
lleteek
Artsy/underground Formerly a little night spot called Home Bar, nothing has
The raw underbelly of Tallinns music and art scene will be really changed except for the name. Its still a stone cellar
appealing only to more adventurous travellers. full of mismatched furniture and art nerds. Currently the
bar has more of a focus on craft and interesting beers, so
Depeche Mode apparently theyve stepped it up a couple of notches from
Vilnius has its Frank Zappa statue, so its only fair that Tal- the cheap bottled beer venue they used to be. Regard-
linn has this bar dedicated to Depeche Mode. For normal less, its kind of a cool spot to hang out in, filled with all
humans, this is just a friendly dive bar stuffed with fan sorts of interesting characters. Expect live music on some
memorabilia. But if youre a true DM fan, this is all you nights.QB3, Vaimu 1, tel. (+372) 618 82 45. Open 17:00 -
ever wanted, all you ever needed.QC2, Voorimehe 4, tel. 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. JX
(+372) 631 43 08, www.depechemode.ee. Open 12:00 -
04:00. Age restriction 18+. JEXW Suhkrumoll
Sugar Skull ... is, well, precisely just that. The decor in
Kultuuriklubi Kelm this cellar-bar is all about fancy-looking skulls and ... well,
Kelm is a multi-level nightspot geared toward the student kind of reminds one of a Grateful Dead tour bus. The
and underground crowd. In fact if you dress too spiffy you atmosphere is oddly warm and the staff seemed up for
probably will feel a little awkward here. We quite like the pretty much anything. The crowd was also rather inter-
place though and they often have some pretty cool events esting the last time we checked in and they have some
including DJs spinning music you probably havent even pretty funky events alongside djs that spin a variety of
heard of. Decent drink prices and a somewhat derelict styles from dub to hip-hop. If you happen to be look-
interior round out the experience.QB3, Vene 33. Open ing for something a little different, check this place out.
19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. JE QB3, Vene 37, tel. (+372) 54 00 41 64. Open Wed, Thu
19:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Levist vljas Sun. J6 E W
Tallinns most grotty, seedy and all-around diviest dive bar.
Students, Rastafarians and rockers alike congregate in this
medieval cellar bar known for cheap drinks and uninhib- Casinos
ited fun. Levist is usually peoples last stop of the night
after drinking heavily elsewhere.QB3, Olevimgi 12, tel. olympic Casino Olmpia
(+372) 504 60 48. Open 15:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - Olympic Casino - Tallinns biggest, brightest, most
06:00. Age restriction 18+. J6ENXW complete and cutting-edge casino is the Olympics
flagship branch. Apart from their excellent service,
they offer the newest slot-machines, Roulette, Black-
Cigar lounges jack, Oasis Poker, Russian Poker, Ultimate Texas and
Baccarat among other games. The Olybet Sports Bar is
Sigari Maja (Cigar House) also a new feature of the Olympic and youre invited to
The quiet, old-fashioned luxury at the Cigar House enjoy their snazzy lounge where you can either take a
extends to wood panelling, a fireplace and busts of break between gambling or just hang out with friends
ancient Greek philosophers. If you want to sink intoa for a drink or three. Naturally theres also free WIFI and
leather sofa and sip expensive brandy, this is the place. a currency exchange onsite - so you dont run out of
A wide selection of Cuban, Dominican and other ci- fun, just before youve gotten started. International
gars on offer.QC2, Raekoja plats 16, tel. (+372) 631 poker tournaments are held here and they run a great
47 35. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Age re show program every week.QH4, Liivalaia 33 (Radis
striction 21+. JIX son Blu Hotel Olmpia), tel. (+372) 630 55 37, www.
olympic-casino.com. Open 24hrs. Age restriction
The Oak Lounge - Tallinn 21+. Also at: C-4, Vana-Viru 14. Open 24hrs. XW
Owned by one of Estonias largest cigar distributors,
this casual, Afro-Caribbean-style lounge with a large Olympic Park Casino
selection of whiskeys from around the globe, has This new flagship of the Olympic Park Casino can be
comfychairs anda warm sophisticated look. Its asen- found in the Hilton Tallinn Park hotel. This massive com-
sible place to stop for any number of the 200 types plex promises Las Vegas style entertainment with one
of Dominican, Nicaraguan, Honduran or cross blended of the best cocktail bars in town, live entertainment at
cigars from the finest cigar manufacturers around the weekend, along with new slot machines, 14 game ta-
world. Friendly, professional service helps to make bles, as well as international poker tournaments.QH4,
your time here a full bodied experience.QC2, Dunkri Fr. R. Kreutzwaldi 23 (Hilton Tallinn Park hotel), tel.
2, tel. (+372) 644 56 47, www.theoaklounge.com. (+372) 630 55 37, www.olympic-casino.com. Open
Open 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. JXW 24hrs. Age restriction 21+. XW

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 75


Nightlife
Lounge 24
Trendy lounge bars A full 90m above street level, the suave lounge on the
Dress to impress and mingle with Tallinns trendy club types Radissons 24th floor is the place to come for light bites
or upwardly mobile elite. and drinks with a fantastic view. At night, the stylish, little
lounge turns its lights down low, letting the cityscape fill
Deja Vu the windows and creating a romantic mood. Creative cock-
This super-stylish restaurant/lounge/champagne em- tails, delightful appetisers and primarily light meals, with an
bassy is a swank place to have a few drinks or grab a nice emphasis on locally-sourced ingredients, also make Lounge
bite. The two floors, prime location and excellent menu 24 a great spot. Be sure to check out their Monday evening
make it all that better. Pop by for the many special events, jazz club for some swinging live music.QH4, Rvala pst.
often involving champagne or lingerie - sometimes both, 3 (Radisson Blu Sky Hotel), tel. (+372) 682 34 24, www.
on Friday and Saturday nights. A great smoking lounge radissonblu.com/skyhotel-tallinn/dining. Open 12:00 -
can also be found upstairs and they rent out shisha pipes, 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. . UW
plus all the necessary paraphernalia to enjoy this Mid-
dle-Eastern pastime.QC3, Vana-Viru 8, tel. (+372) 56 88 new
44 55, www.dejavu.ee. Open 12:00 - 06:00, Mon, Tue, Sigmund Freud Bar
Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Age restriction 21+ during night This funky cocktail bar has received nothing but rave
hours. J6EXSW reviews, including from us. The talented bartenders are
skilled in making inventive, as well as classic cocktails, all
Frank for a great price, considering the top quality. In addition
Dedicated, we assume to Ol Blue Eyes, this culinary cock- to the great drinks, the atmosphere and the decor is fun,
tail bar also doubles as a New York, Soho-styled bistro - yet sophisticated. Well be back again soon.QC3, Sauna
and they do offer up an extensive selection of drinks and 8, tel. (+372) 56 05 55 34, www.sfbaar.ee. Open 19:00
cocktails served with class. Their menu offerings are also - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Age restriction 18+ .
quite delectable and the prices rather reasonable. We par- JW
ticularly enjoyed the burger, of which they offer a few, but
their soups are also certainly worth trying.QC3, Sauna 2,
tel. (+372) 623 30 59, www.frankbistro.ee. Open 12:00 - Get the In Your Pocket
24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . J6W City Essentials app

76 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife
Wine bars
In recent years, wine bars have emerged as a sophisticated,
mature alternative in this overly beer-centric town.

new
BART Pianobar
An Italian channelling Billy Joel on the Piano leading occa-
sional sing-a-longs in a large but cosy cellar bar. A free, yes,
free Italian food bar is open daily from 18.30-21.30. When not
colonised by Stags escaping from nearby Nimeta, this eccen-
tric but quite elegant bar on the new party street of Sauna
can be the middle or end of a brilliant night. Altogether now:
sing me a song, youre the piano man...QC3, Sauna 10,
tel. (+372) 56 25 40 05, www.bartestonia.ee. Open 18:30
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:30 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. . JE Clubs
Tallinn has quite a bit to offer on the club-scene. From tacky
MarcoVino to cutting edge, youll certainly find something that fits
Italian owned and operated, this small, yet stylish vinoteca your needs. The regular admittance age to most clubs is
offers handpicked bottles by the owner himself, who is 18+, exceptions are listed at the end of our review.
more than happy to tell you all about them. The menu has
a good selection of both hot and cold dishes that are per- Caf Amigo
fect for sharing while you taste your way through the wine Surprisingly hip and happening for a hotel club, Amigo
list.QB2, Lai 26, tel. (+372) 672 20 55/(+372) 55 96 11 54, attracts a good mix of Finnish tourists and local party an-
www.marcovino.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00. . J6W imals who tend to be slightly older than the typical club
monkeys. The big draw here are the live rock and blues
Osteria del Gallo Nero bands - the countrys best-loved names - that play here
Personality is everything, and thats exactly what youll almost nightly. Before bands come one, DJs spin all your
find at this cosy Italian food shop/caf. The owners turn favorite pop dance hits from the 70s-90s, and always man-
it into lively - albeit tiny - wine bar at night. The selection age to fill the floor with a cross-generational crowd.QC4,
of wines however is not tiny and they keep approximately Viru vljak 4, (Original Sokos Hotel Viru), tel. (+372) 680
300 labels on hand at all times. Theyll mingle with you 93 80, www.amigo.ee. Open 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00
and may even encourage you to sing along with the - 05:00. Admission 6, Fri-Sat 9. Age restriction 21+.
stereo. For a full on dining experience with an equally UEXW
adequate wine list check out their full-on Trattoria on
Lai 32.QC2, Rataskaevu 4, tel. (+372) 646 21 07, www. Cathouse
osteriagallonero.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 Located a little off the beaten track but not too far from
- 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. J6SW the centre, is the largest and apparently the sexiest club
in the vicinity of Old Town. The music is bumping and the
Paar Veini crowd is a mix of Estonians and Russians with a handful of
Certainly not as posh as many of its counterparts, Couple of foreigners thrown into the mix. We found the atmosphere
Wines caters to the less sophisticated wine-drinker as is evi- quite upscale, in fact they even have strict face and style
dent in their bohemian-like dcor and a relatively inexpensive control - although they did let us in.QH4, Tartu mnt. 17,
wine-list - not to say that their wines arent sophisticated. This tel. (+372) 655 77 00, www.cathouse.ee/. Open Fri, Sat
is the place for the kind of people who enjoy a glass of wine, 23:00 - 05:00, Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. X
but dont want the snobbery of what usually goes along with
it.QC3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 660 30 36, www.paarveini.ee. Club Baila
Open Mon, Tue 18:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, This little dance club in the heart of Old Town certainly
Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. J6W does its best to make their clients feel like theyre relaxing,
or partying it up on a tropical island somewhere instead of
Pan Y Vino the somewhat chilly streets of Tallinn. Even the practically
Great wines, friendly service and some tasty but simple all-blonde female serving staff are decked out in striped
food, make this wine bar both popular and a really nice sailor-tops, just adding that extra something to the vibe.
spot to spend a few hours with a small group or a loved The cuisine is also topical-getaway inspired and the mu-
one. The Peruvian owner has worked in the industry for sic will make you want to shake your money-makers, or at
years and he takes a lot of pride in making everyone feel at the very least watch others shake theirs. A huge selection
home and comfortable - so much so that youll probably of signature cocktails as well.QC3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372)
want to come back for more.QB2, Lai 35, tel. (+372) 525 641 04 60, www.bailabaila.ee. Open Fri, Sat 22:30 -
85 17. Open 10:00 - 01:00. . J6SW 06:00, Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. JXW
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 77
Nightlife
Club Hollywood Club Studio
If theres one club in Tallinn thats guaranteed to be jump- Young, hip and one helluva queue to get into the place
ing, its Hollywood. This melting-pot for tourists, and Tal- kind of gives you the idea of what Studio is all about. Prob-
linns young and young-at-heart party crowd, usually ends ably the most popular place at the moment for the 18-25
up being a full-house. Featuring loads of funky events as crowd, Studio actually pumps out some pretty quality mu-
well as some great local and international djs on the decks, sic from genres most of us old people have never heard
its hard not to get your groove on. Their VIP experience of. If you enjoy a youthful and fun vibe, youll fit in just fine.
is excellent and they boast the largest video screen in QC3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 58 94 32 61, www.clubstudio.
Estonia - making a night out here a worthy expedition. ee. Open Fri, Sat 24:00 - 06:00, Closed Mon - Thu, Sun.
Wednesday night is ladies night, ie.free entrance for the Admission 10. J
fairer sex, which pretty much guarantees a good time for
the lads as well. See website for full programme and VIP Factory
details.QD2, Vana-Posti 8, tel. (+372) 59 12 42 00, www. Located a bit outside the centre of Tallinn, but not a deter-
clubhollywood.ee. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, rence if you happen to be interested in any of their concerts,
Tue, Sun. Admission 5 - 8. JEX special guest DJs or international acts - of which they have
many. This is most likely the citys largest nightclub and a
Club Mnt Mecca for those into hardcore techno. The crowd here
The former Spider club has new digs and a new name. totally depends on the programme schedule, but primarily
Mnt, which means both mint and coin in Estonian, proba- caters to a younger audience. Make sure to check their web
bly wont leave your breath fresh and tasty but certainly will page for upcoming events before heading to this night des-
leave more coin in your pocket as they offer up 1 drinks. tination.QH2, Madara 22a, tel. (+372) 55 97 50 40, www.
Expect all the grown-up fun that a place offering such factorytallinn.com. Open for special events. See website
cheap drinks has to offer and a healthy dose of girls wearing for details. Admission 5 - 15. ULX
the amount of clothing a girl who can only afford 1 drinks
might be wearing.QD3, Mrivahe 22, www.clubmynt. Klubi Teater
eu. Open Wed, Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00, Currently one of our favourites and one of the most interest-
Closed Mon - Tue, Sun. Admission 7 - 9. J ing and elaborate clubs in Tallinn, Teater takes advantage of
its location in an old theatre and certainly provides the club-
hookah joints goer with a theatrical experience. The dcor is 1930s-in-
spired, the large cigar lounge is a nice touch as are the
Perhaps due to the fact that many Estonians holiday showgirls. Drinks can tend to be a bit pricey, but the overall
in Egypt where shisha smoking is pretty much a hu- ambiance, live performances and the opportunity to mingle
man-right, there are loads of establishments around with an upwardly mobile and more mature crowd makes
town that offer a puff. Here we have listed just a couple it all worth it. Theres a swanky VIP lounge for cardholders
that specialise in the pastime. (can be ordered online or for an extra fee at the door) and a
lounge within a club called Taboo.QD2, Vabaduse vljak
Vesipiibuisa 5, tel. (+372) 56 88 44 44, www.klubiteater.ee. Open Fri,
This extension of the eatery next door offers a com- Sat 24:00 - 05:00, Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 8 -
fortable and relaxing atmosphere in which to smoke 15. Age restriction 21+. EXW
hookahs. They have more flavours of tobacco than you
probably even knew existed and cosy rooms where Mishka
one can recline on soft pillows while puffing your Only a small distance from Old Town, Mishkas name
cares away. Good selection of cocktails as well.QE2, pretty much gives a hint of the clientele they primarily
Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 55 51 52 35, www.loca.ee. Open cater to - mostly Russian. However, they certainly know
17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 08:00. how to have an excellent time and when we were last
there, on offer was quite a talented topless dj and sexy
Vesipiibu Kohvik dancers hailing from St. Petersburg - not that the gor-
Certainly a tongue-twister for most foreigners, the geous Russian-Estonian girls who frequent the club
vesi-piibu-koh-vik is quite a relaxing place to while arent enough to keep any red-blooded males heart
away your afternoons, or evenings. Those evenings pumping at full throttle. Primarily electronic music with a
may even turn into weeks, months or years if youre not good dose of Slavic dance tracks keep the crowd bump-
too careful. Actually, we just confused this place with ing.QG4, Ahtri 10a, tel. (+372) 58 83 68 50, www.
an opium den, never mind. Live belly dance shows on mishka.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00, Closed Mon -
weekends are certain to be a hit - get it?QE2, Tatari Thu, Sun. Admission 8. XW
1, tel. (+372) 56 46 46 06, www.vesipiibukohvik.
ee. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 15:00
- 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. Age restriction 18+. Read more reviews online:
LXW tallinn.inyourpocket.com

78 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife
Vabank
The beautiful people, the beautiful people! Vabank is a Midnight Munchies
large nightclub at the edge of Old Town, housed in a for-
mer bank building where, currently, many of Tallinns most If youre looking for food and drink after the pubs close,
beautiful people hang out listening to rather pumping dont expect much of quality. Here are some options.
house and club music while sipping on high-end cock-
tails. It certainly fills a certain niche and often the parties Loca
last until the wee hours of the morning. A couple of cool Loca isnt too far of a stumble from Old Town and they
features of note, they offer VIP bed-rooms off either side offer a little more variety and higher quality than pretty
of the dance floor and the private room downstairs is in much all of the kiosks and other open-late fast-food
the former bank vault.QD2, Harju 13, tel. (+372) 660 99 spots in the centre. The eats are actually quite decent for
00, www.vabank.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00, Closed a fast food place and there are some interesting things
Mon - Thu, Sun. Dresscode smart casual. Admission on the menu, blending South American, Italian and Mid-
10, VIP-ticket 15. From 23:00 - 24:00, ladies free. Age dle eastern cuisines. We quite liked their fried chicken
restriciton 21+. J and homemade pitas with hummus. Pizzas will set you
back about 5, drinks prices are reasonable and theyve
Venus recently opened a shisha-smoking lounge next door, also
Rows of classical cherub statues added to an Arabian desert open late.QE2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 55 51 52 35, www.
motif are certainly over the top, but we think the ber-kitsch loca.ee. Open 11:00 - 08:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. J6S
decor helps to create a great party atmosphere. Open six
days a week, indeed the party never seems to stop. The Taco
excellent bartenders mix fantastic cocktails and there are This little tacosnmore joint offers up some pretty
loads of special events to keep things hopping and interest- spicy offerings alongside a few decent pizzas and is
ing. This place is really all about having a great time and the altogether centrally located enough that your newly
vibe here isnt as serious as some of the Elite clubs in town acquired jello-legs will probably even manage to get
- which is in our opinion a good thing. Its also one of the you here from most of the establishments offering up
few clubs in town where you can often find people dancing liquid courage in the area.QD2, Suur-Karja 18, tel.
before midnight.QC4, Vana-Viru 14, tel. (+372) 551 99 99, (+372) 682 55 08, www.taco.ee. Open 11:00 - 07:00.
www.venusclub.ee. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. Ad J6SW
mission 0 - 10. Age restriction 21+. JX

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 79


Nightlife - Adult Entertainment
Dont expect to partake from afar. If they perform on stage much the same as the majority of these kind of clubs in
at all, dancers in Tallinns striptease clubs typically visit the the city - if youre lucky though, youll meet a girl who is
tables, getting up close and personal to collect tips, usually a smart business woman and will offer to do a floor show
3 - 5. While between performances on the stage, other even if there arent any scheduled.QC2, Suur-Karja 13,
dancers will try to coax you into buying an expensive ladies tel. (+372) 631 49 00, www.casanovaclub.ee. Open
cocktail, which is essentially a huge tip for sitting with you 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8. JXW
and making dull small talk. Lately it seems that Gentle-
mens clubs have been popping up in every shady corner Mister XXX
of Old Town, here we have listed just a few of them - but One of the most focused and experienced strip clubs
beware, most clubs will either try to rip you off in one way in town (the owners have actually opened branches in
or another, especially the ones we dont have listed. Thailand), Mister XXX lures in punters with swirling, co-
loured lights and the occasional dancer pouting in the
window. The place itself is small and plush, and the danc-
Strip Clubs ers are well trained to push you to spend, spend, spend.
Brsi Gentlemens Club QC3, Mrivahe 23a, tel. (+372) 631 43 44, www.
Brsiis the cheap alternative - thats cheapin just about misterxxxclub.com. Open 19:00 - 04:00. Admission 15.
every sense of the word.The friendly, low-key, basement JX
venue is popular with a few foreigners in-the-know. If
you do acquiesce to splurging for a ladies drink for your Virgin Club
conversation partner, just make sure its not the 58 cham- One of the more exclusive establishments in Tallinn ca-
pagne.QC2, Lai 7, tel. (+372) 641 19 59/(+372) 58 12 00 tering to a mans every desire, Virgin Club will ensure that
24, www.borsibaar.ee. Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. every man who enters their doors will leave very happy
Admission 8, age restriction 21+. J indeed. Beautiful and talented women, tantalising shows
and a lush interior are certain to please the hard-to-please.
casanova Club They offer shower shows, girl/girl shows and shows that
Probably one of the most beautifully designed adult en- we cant even mention. In addition to their exotic dancers,
tertainment spots in Tallinn, Casanova is brilliantly deco- they also have some lovely and talented, erotic masseuses
rated in an Arabian Nights motif and certainly reminds on hand, whom are equally talented with their hands - as
one of a stylish harem. The rest of the details are pretty they are with their bodies. Free transfer from your hotel,
send them an e-mail or call for more details.QH4, Tartu
mnt. 29, tel. (+372) 53 99 39 99, www.virgins.ee. Open
22:00 - 06.00. D

X Club
One of the more sophisticated clubs of this type in Tal-
linn, X Club is favoured by business types and high-end
bachelor parties. In addition to the main show room, an
Oriental Room dazzles clients with belly-dancing and wa-
ter-pipes. Theyve even got a great cigar-lounge, Cham-
pagne room and offer various relaxing massages. Even the
medieval-style torture booth has nice decor. Friendly staff
and a relaxed atmosphere. A good place for group events
like stag nights or political conventions. For an even more
thrilling experience you can inquire about their Limousine
shows - the most fun on wheels since you took a joyride
in your dads convertible when you were 16, perhaps even
more...QD2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 75, www.xclub.
ee. Open 21:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 21+. J

80 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 81


Hotels
Tallinns hospitality industry has pretty much reached ca-
pacity and the total number of rooms sits at over 7800. For SYMBOL key
the tourist this means the choice of where to stay has never
been better, and the room rates are also likely to remain P Air conditioning Z Anti-allergy rooms
competitive. With the exception of the five-star hotels lis-
ted in the Cream of the Crop category, the price bands used O Casino H Conference facilities
refer to the rack rate for a double room. T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre L Free parking


Cream of the crop
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly
Schlssle
The elegance, history and warmth of its three attached K Restaurant J Old Town location
Old Town buildings are a major part of Schlssles five-star
appeal. Over the past decade this luxury hotel has played D Sauna C Swimming pool
host to musicians and heads of state, but even if you arent I Fireplace W Wifi
rock or royalty, the helpful and friendly staff will treat you
as such. A beautiful medieval lobby, a crackling fireplace
and a world class restaurant invite you to linger and stay piano. The staff will cater to your every whim here and al-
just one more night.QC3, Phavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) most every request a guest might have will be taken care
699 77 00, fax (+372) 699 77 77, www.schloesslehotel. of. The world-class Bordoo restaurant and cosy, cellar co-
com. singles 199 - 349, doubles 199 - 349, suites gnac bar are just icing on an already delicious cake. Beware
309- 1500 Extra bed 75, pets 32. PZJH6 though, if you do check-in, you may never want to leave.
UIGKDW hhhhh QA/B3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. (+372) 630 63 00, fax (+372)
630 63 01, www.threesistershotel.com. singles 120 -
St. Petersbourg 150, doubles 140- 185, suites 320- 365 Extra bed 55,
Aristocrats in the 19th century would stay at the St. pets 20. PJHR6UGKW hhhhh
Petersbourg when visiting Tallinn, likewise 21st-century
travellers looking for luxury Old Town accommodation
can find it here at the citys oldest, continuously-running Over 100
hotel. Completely renovated to keep pace with newer ri- Hilton Tallinn Park
vals, the hotel treats its guests with modern comforts like This sparkling new hotel located in the city centre boasts a
deluxe art-deco furnishing and plush bathrobes, all the fantastic array of amenities and features including a fine restau-
while retaining a strong sense of old world charm.QC2, rant, beautiful lobby, several bars, entertainment and Tallinns
Rataskaevu 7, tel. (+372) 628 65 00, fax (+372) 628 65 65, largest casino. Needless to say the state-of-the-art facilities aim
www.hotelstpetersbourg.com. singles 150- 300, dou to please - so much so that you probably dont need to leave
bles 150- 300, suites 260- 450 Extra bed 75, pets the premises to fully relax and enjoy yourself while away from
32. PZJH6UIGKDW hhhhh home. Cutting edge conference facilities and some great views
of Tallinn complete the experience.QH4, Kreutzwaldi 23, tel.
Telegraaf (+372) 630 53 33, tallinnpark.hilton.com. singles 140- 190,
This full-service hotel in a restored 19th-century former doubles 140- 190, suites 145- 3000, family room 230-
bank turned communications building has facilities that 300 Pets 30. POHR6GKDW
include a wellness spa, a Russian-style restaurant and an
unheard-of Old Town luxury: underground parking! The Merchants House
ultra comfortable rooms are more spacious than typical This beautiful structure is essentially a 14th century merchants
for an Old Town hotel, you might however be tempted to house turned into aluxury, boutique-style hotel, so dont be sur-
spend a little bit too much time in the bathrooms deco- prised if you get lost in the twists and turns ofits corridors.Each
rated with French post cards.QC3, Vene 9, tel. (+372) ofits rooms and suites has been done up withcool,chicde-
600 06 00, fax (+372) 600 06 01, www.telegraafhotel. cor,tastefully fitted to thehistoric building.Look for creature
com. singles 155 - 330, doubles 175 - 350, suites comfortslike plasma TVs, high-speed Internet and fluffy bath-
350- 1250 Extra bed 70, pets 35. PJHR6 robes.Youll also find a relax room, brasserie restaurant, caf
UIGKDCW hhhhh and an Ice Bar, where chilly drinks are served in ice-formed shot
glasses.QC2, Dunkri 4/6, tel. (+372) 697 75 00, fax (+372) 697
Three Sisters Hotel 75 01, www.merchantshousehotel.com. singles 99- 130,
This luxury hotel built into three famous medieval houses doubles 90- 189, suites 155- 600 Extra bed 26. PZ
on the end of Pikk tnav provides the quintessential Tallinn JRIGKDW
experience. The top-notch establishment offers large rooms
decorated in a striking blend of modern and antique styles. Meriton Old Town
Flat-screen TVs can be found alongside old-fashioned bath- A nice combination of modern comfort and historic sur-
tubs and hidden staircases. One suite even sports a grand roundings are whats offered in this tourist-class hotel at
82 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Hotels
spa hotels
Each of the spa hotels below offers accommodation as
well as treatment packages and day spa services. Prices
here are for accommodation only, check their websites
for details on their package deals.

Kalev Spa Hotel & Water Park


This enormous, state-of-the-art facility brings Es-
tonias spa phenomenon to the heart of the city. In
addition to tidy guest rooms, complete spa packages
are available, as are a health and wellness centre, a fit-
ness centre and a restaurant with a view of the water
park. The park includes three waterslides and a 50m
swimming pool, Tallinns largest, and along with the
gym and a morning sauna is available free of charge
for hotel guests. You can also book one of 3 private
VIP saunas that come in different sizes, all include a ja-
cuzzi and a free access to the water park. Inquire about
the two different types of family rooms also available.
QB3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 00, fax (+372) 649
33 01, www.kalevspa.ee. singles 85, doubles 125,
suites 220, family rooms 125- 190 Extra bed 26,
pets 13. TJHR6UFLGKDCW

Park Inn by Radisson Meriton Confer-


ence & Spa Hotel Tallinn
With some fantastic views onto Toompea, a full-ser-
the edge of Old Town. The main building with its zigzag- vice spa, several eateries and sprawling conference
ging corridors dates from the 19th century and houses facilities, this hotel certainly provides an all-inclusive
somewhat small, but cheerfully decorated guest rooms. experience for its guests. The steel and glass structure
More interesting is the lobby, which contains part of the houses some of the most state-of-the-art spa facilities
old city wall and the round, outer edge of the neigh- in the city, including a salt chamber, low tempera-
bouring 15th-century horse mill. Try the U Natai here ture sauna, heated beds and even something called
for some fast and authentic Russian cuisine.QA3, Lai a mushroom for the kids. The conference facilities
49, tel. (+372) 614 13 00, fax (+372) 614 13 11, www. can hold up to 380 attendees and are also decked out
oldtownhotelstallinn.com. singles 55 - 120, doubles in the latest gadgetry to give presentations a lasting
60- 120 Extra bed 22. JRUILGKW impression.QH3, Toompuiestee 27/Paldiski mnt.
4, tel. (+372) 628 81 00, www.parkinn.com/hotel-
Radisson Blu Sky Hotel meriton-tallinn. singles 70 - 150, doubles 80 -
The first Radisson hotel in Tallinn has been recently refur- 170, suites 280, family room 175, presidential
bished and naturally they continue to provide their guests suite 460 Extra bed 30. PTHUFLG
with everything one might expect from this international KDCW
chain and its immaculate attention to detail. From the stylish
furnishings to little touches like shoe buffers in the corridor Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel
they never miss a beat. Other perks here include sweeping Gigantic, bare-breasted sirens flanking the doors and
views of the city and a free morning sauna. The hotel has a a bright, groovy lobby bar are your first clues that this
definite business bent with its 10 conference rooms and of- place is far bolder than your average spa hotel. Apart
fice services.QH4, Rvala pst. 3, tel. (+372) 682 30 00, fax from its signature Aqua Spa, spa packages and guest
(+372) 682 30 01, www.radissonblu.com/skyhotel-tallinn. rooms - some of which overlook the decadent pool
singles 129- 219, doubles 129- 219, suites 219- 269 Ex bar in the hotels central atrium - the high-tech estab-
tra bed 30. PZHRUFGKDW lishment near the passenger port offers six conference
rooms, a Fidel cigar bar and a beauty salon.QG4,
Rixwell Gotthard Hotel Sadama 11a, tel. (+372) 630 10 00, fax (+372) 630
Now under new management by Rixwell Hotels, the Rix- 10 10, www.tallinkhotels.com. singles 89 - 190,
well Gotthard Hotel has views of the famous Three Sisters doubles 89- 190, suites 194- 275 Extra bed 25.
hotel on one side and Tallinn Bay on the other. Built in the PTHRUGKDCW
14th century, the rooms and hotel have been decorated
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 83
Hotels
bringing out unique medieval elements, but offering all
modern amenities. All in all not a bad place to stay in the Old
Town.QA3, Pikk 66, tel. (+372) 611 80 80, www.rixwell.
com/en/rixwell-gotthard-hotel. singles 90, doubles
103, triples 129, quads 155, suites 320, apartments
550 Extra bed 26. Pets 19. ZJ6UW

Swisstel Tallinn
This lavish hotel has bragging rights as Tallinns tallest
building and needless to say some of room-views are Zen rooms and 7 Zen Delux rooms include, flat-screen
fabulous. Inside youll find all the things youd come to ex- televisions and Jacuzzis. Check out the smart restaurant with
pect from the luxury chain, including conference facilities, its lunch specials. In the summer they also have a spacious
a high-end spa, state-of-the-art technology and a highly outdoor courtyard patio.QH3, Endla 23, tel. (+372) 666 48
trained staff catering to your every whim. Swissotel is all 00, fax (+372) 666 48 88, www.uhotelsgroup.com. singles
about the little extras such as special bathrobes and bed- 50- 145, doubles 55- 155, triples 70- 165 Extra bed
spreads for the kids, iPod docking stations in the executive 25, pets 15. PHR6UFLGKDW
rooms and Paulig espresso machines in every room. Even
if you dont have the pleasure of staying here, be sure to Meriton Old Town Garden
investigate some relaxing opportunities at the Provel Spa Offering everything you could possibly want in an Old
or enjoy a delightful buffet in Caf Swiss.QH4, Tornime Town establishment - including two entrances on entirely
3, tel. (+372) 624 01 01, www.swissotel.com/tallinn. sin different streets. The hotel blends perfectly together the
gles 135- 295, doubles 135- 295, suites 335- 2310, charms of the old world with the conveniences we find
family room 218 - 323 Extra bed restricted to grand handy in our modern times. In typical Old Town fashion,
rooms only 80. PZHRUFKDCW no two rooms are exactly the same, which just adds to
the charm. Youll also find the mouth-watering cakes of
The von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn Caf Mademoiselle on the premises, as well as the Nor-
A trend setter with its too-cool style and creature comforts, dic/Estonian Trof restaurant and a pretty nifty public
The von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn offers well-outfitted and toilet, complete with an ancient well.QB2, Pikk 29/ Lai
comfortable rooms just steps away from Toompea. They 24, tel. (+372) 664 88 00, fax (+372) 664 88 01, www.
have several classes of rooms available, but our personal oldtownhotelstallinn.com. economy 45- 90, standard
favourite happens to be the larger Zen rooms - which offer 70- 110, Bella Garden 90- 130. PJHKW
extra perks such as slippers, bathrobes and aromatherapy
amenities to spoil your inner child. The level of service here Park Inn by Radisson Central Tallinn
is also top-notch.QH3, Toompuiestee 23, tel. (+372) 660 This spiffy downtown hotel has a wide range of rooms and
07 00, fax (+372) 660 18 88, www.uhotelsgroup.com. sin the same helpful services youd expect from a hotel in its
gles 60- 98, doubles 74- 236 Extra bed 30, pets 30. class. The spacious rooms come tastefully decorated with
PZHR6ILKDCW a modern flair and balconies can be enjoyed on the sixth
floor. Children are well catered to and the lobby restau-
rant is set up to please even the most discerning palette.
60 - 100 Their onsite beauty salon also offers a wide range of
Euroopa beauty treatments.QG4, Narva mnt. 7C, tel. (+372) 633
Located in the port, they offer all the modern conveniences 98 00, fax (+372) 633 99 00, www.parkinn.com/hotel-
youd expect from a four-star hotel with a few extras such centraltallinn. doubles 59- 139, suites 154- 202 Extra
as your very own guard-lamb on every bed. The 185 room bed 26, pets 10. PH6UFGKDW
hotel caters primarily to the business set, offering 8 confer-
ence rooms, wireless internet throughout the premises and Tallinn Seaport Hotel
includes a sauna and fitness centre which are both com- Just a short walk from picturesque Old Town, this recently
plimentary for guests. The 41 business rooms also come renovated hotel (just opposite the Passenger Ports D-Ter-
equipped with balconies that have views overlooking the minal) is especially great for families and economically-
bustling port area.QG4, Paadi 5, tel. (+372) 669 97 77, minded travellers. They offer decent, modern rooms and
www.euroopa.ee. singles 88- 170, doubles 93- 175, services at no-nonsense prices. All rooms feature natural
triples 119- 201, suites 249- 331 Extra bed 26, pets cork floors, LCD televisions, wireless Internet access and
15. PZH6UFGKDwW hhhh they even have special rooms for people with disabilities
or allergies. The onsite sauna can accommodate up to 20
Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn people, has a stylish jacuzzi and is located on the top floor.
Within a brief walking distance from Old Town, the five-sto- QG4, Uus-Sadama 23, tel. (+372) 667 66 00, www.
rey Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn is a bright and modern hotel. seaporthoteltallinn.com. singles 65 - 117, doubles
All rooms offer air conditioners, coffee/tea-making facilities, 68- 120, suites 83- 135, family room 113- 165 Extra
mini-bars and free WIFI, In addition to that, the 17 spacious bed 25, pets 20. PZH6ULGKDW
84 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Hotels
Under 60 Hostels
Although there are loads of hostels around town, the 16 Euro Hostel Munkenhof
free-spirited often communal living feel of them is not for If its price and location youre after, then this hostel in Old
everyone - especially if you are looking for something a Town will probably suit you just fine. The furnishings are
little more private. Here are some alternatives. kind of mix and match, but its overall quite clean. As for
a good nights sleep, there are a few bars and a nightclub
Braavo up the road, so bring your earplugs just in case. They also
And now for something completely different! Located just have two other locations, Fat Margarets and Rotermanni,
at the edge of Old Town, this bright and colourful lodging both with their own style but a similar level of service.
is designed with families and youth in mind. The rooms are QC3, Munga 4, tel. (+372) 507 47 66, www.16eur.ee.
spacious, cheerful and come at an affordable price. Dont singles 25, doubles 32, dorm bed 10 Extra bed 16.
expect too many extras, but if youre looking for a place to Breakfast 6. J6W
rest your head in a central location this hotel will certainly
do. If you fancy a swim or a workout, the attached Reval Euphoria
Sport complex complete with four pools, sauna and a wa- This hostel-esque happening, brought to you by the good
ter park will keep you entertained.QB3, Aia 20, tel. (+372) folks over at the Hostel With No Name, is one of the larger
699 97 77, fax (+372) 641 23 17, www.braavohotel.com. places in town. Its kind of a unique concept that centres
singles 35- 65, doubles 35- 95, family room 83- 100 around four apartments on different floors and a large
Extra bed 20. JRUFGDCW common room where everyone can hang out, play the
guitar, bang on bongos or if the spirit moves you, maybe
City Hotel Tallinn even paint your own mural on the wall. Each floor has its
In what seems to be a new trend in the city, the Unique own kitchen and toilet, one of them even has a bath! Light
Hotel has converted some of their rooms to a no-frills breakfast included.QH3, Roosikrantsi 4, tel. (+372) 58
concept. You can expect the same quality and modern 37 36 02, euphoria.traveller.ee. Prices 13.90 - 17.80/
rooms as before, just without the costly extras, such as person. RLW
room-cleaning and towel changes. These of course can
be purchased for an additional charge along with other Old Town Backpackers
services. We think its a great option for those on a budget, Owners insist its not for tourists, only for travellers, so put
who dont want a budget room. Check-in is right next on your best hippy-backpacker attitude if you plan to stay
door at The von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn.QH3, Paldiski here. The centrally-located hostel on Uus Street is basically
mnt. 3, tel. (+372) 660 07 00, fax (+372) 660 18 88, www. a dorm with six beds. It boasts a huge guest kitchen, sauna,
uhotelsgroup.com. singles 25- 75, doubles 24- 80, laundry facilities, Internet-connected computer and WIFI.
triples 42- 95 Extra bed 20, pets 30. Breakfast 8. QC3, Uus 14, tel. (+372) 517 13 37, balticbackpachers.
6ULGW wordpress.com. 6 beds 10 - 12/person. JDW

Go Hotel Shnelli Tallinn Backpackers


This starkly modern, seven-storey hotel is attached to Hands down thishostel is Tallinns best for that feeling of
Tallinns newly revamped railway station, which happens international traveller camaraderie. Basically acollection of
to have a great location just outside the Old Town walls. open bunk rooms, its cheap, central and friendly, and the
All rooms are done in a simple, no-nonsense style with a foreign backpacker who staff itorganisevideo screenings
slight railroad theme. The superior class rooms on the up- nightly pub crawls and some funky tours both in and out
per floors have beautiful views of Toompea hill. Train buffs of Tallinn. Free sauna, kitchen, computerand WiFi. Laundry
should book a room in the slightly cheaper standard class for a fee. Looking to stay in town a little longer? Theyve
rooms overlooking the tracks. Try the restaurant and day got rooms for that too.QB3, Olevimgi 11-1, tel. (+372)
spa.QB1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 631 01 00, fax 644 02 98, www.tallinnbackpackers.com. 5Total rooms
(+372) 631 01 07, www.gohotels.ee. doubles 69- 89, 34 dorm beds 8/bed. No breakfast. JRIGW
apartments 120, family rooms 95 Extra bed 21, pets
13. PZH6ULGKW The Monks Bunk
The Monks Bunk consists of several dorm-style rooms
Tallink Express with bunk-beds to crash on. Certainly a bit more commu-
The smart-looking structure 300m from the passenger port nity oriented than some places, the Bunk does however
is home to a sparklingly modern and orderly hotel that caters pride itself in being a place where you can get some peace
to visitors who want easy access to both the Old Town and and quiet every once and a while - at least as much privacy
to Helsinki-bound ships. Guests are treated to free wireless as you can get in a room filled with snoring strangers. They
internet, and should consider trying out the hotels famed also have a smoking room and spontaneous parties hap-
soup buffet.QA4, Sadama 9, tel. (+372) 667 87 00, fax pen in the bar on premises.QE2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 636
(+372) 667 88 00, www.tallinkhotels.com. singles 50- 89, 39 24, www.themonksbunk.com. triples 48, quads
doubles 50- 89 Extra bed 25. THRUGKW 52, place in dorm 9- 12. JDW
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 85
Shopping - Authentic Estonian
Although we havent made a final count of all the souvenir
shops and boutiques in Old Town there appear to be thou-
sands of them. This makes it pretty hard for the tourist, not
to mention locals, to find souvenirs, fashion, art and other
handicrafts that are truly Estonian - either made here or
conceived and designed here. Listed below you can find
a number of shops, products and boutiques that specialise
in bringing authentic Estonian goods to the public. Beware,
the majority of souvenir shops around town sell things
not made in Estonia or that dont even remotely represent
things that are unique to this country.

Commercial galleries
Gifts & Souvenirs
and art shops Asuur Ceramics
Bogapott Located inside one of Tallinns medieval defence towers -
Not only is it a cosy little caf (see Cafs), its also an artists Asuur might just be one of the most unique ceramic bou-
studio, where you can see the craftsmen at work and a gal- tiques/workshops around.QB2, Kooli 7, tel. (+372) 646
lery/shop where you can view and purchase their unique 40 96, www.asuurkeraamika.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
hand-crafted, earthen wares.QC1, Pikk jalg 9, tel. (+372) 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
631 31 81, www.bogapott.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00.
Deko
Helina Tilk Home design and gift items.QC2, Voorimehe 1,
Joyful hand-painted porcelain, glass and ceramics by an tel. (+372) 56 49 51 13/(+372) 654 20 08, www.
Estonian artist.QC2, Rataskaevu 6, tel. (+372) 646 42 loomekombinaat.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
80, www.helinatilk.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
- 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00, Also at: B-3, Pikk 41, tel 641 45 Estonian Goods (H Eesti Asi)
15. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Everything for sale in this large souvenir shop was either
designed or produced in Estonia. From food and drink to
Kunstiaken handicrafts - it can all be found here.QC3, Viru 23, tel.
This gallery and shop offers textiles, glass, ceramics, (+372) 56 98 63 84. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
leather, and more, all designed and made by Estonian
artists.QC3, Vene 20, tel. (+372) 646 42 09, www.
kunstiaken.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Estonian Handicraft House
Established in 1927 to revive Estonian
Navitrolla Galerii handicrafts, this shop sells locally-made
One of Estonias most popular painters creates whim- handicrafts, each with their own story.
sical art that is both fun and colourful. Originals, prints QC2, Pikk 22, tel. (+372) 631 40 76,
and limited edition gicles are all available for purchase www.crafts.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 -
here.QB3, Sulevimgi 1, tel. (+372) 631 37 16, www. 17:00, Also at: C-3, Vene 12. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
navitrolla.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: C-1, Lhike jalg 6, tel. 641 17
11:00 - 16:00. 08. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Okapi Estonian House (Eesti Esindus)


An art and design gallery that also functions as a glass stu- This souvenir shop features different sections devoted to
dio. They sell Estonian applied arts, photography, design various handicrafts such as leather goods, local delica-
and graphic works.QC2, Niguliste 2, tel. (+372) 56 88 14 cies, wood items etc. The craftsmen sell their own wares
34, www.okapi.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. and you wont find any Russian nesting dolls or other
non-Estonian souvenirs for sale here - a plus in our books.
Tauno Kangro Gallery QC3, Viru 3, tel. (+372) 640 40 37, www.eestiesindus.
Estonias top sculptor has a wide variety of works for sale, ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
including large and miniature sculptures as well as pastel
drawings. Here you can find exquisite nudes, game ani- Kalev Chocolate Shop
mals and mythological pieces at reasonable prices. For QB4, Roseni 7 (in the inner yard of Rotermanni quar
larger items, international shipping also available.QB3, ter), tel. (+372) 54 52 58 29, www.kalev.eu. Open 10:00
Uus 20, tel. (+372) 641 10 02, www.skulptuuristuudio. - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Also at: C-2, Pikk 16 (in Kalev
ee. Open during business days 09:00 - 17:00, most of Marzipan Museum), tel. 646 41 92. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
the time. Its adviseable to call ahead though. Sun 10:00 - 16:00. J
86 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Shopping - Authentic Estonian
Katariina Gild
Various artisan shops/workshops, including a glass studio, Estonian fashion designers
textile studio and hat workshop among others. You can A.G.A.N. - As Good As New
witness the creation of the products on site.QC3, Vene Both a second-hand boutique and a showcase for young
12/Katariina kik, katariinagild.eu. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Estonian designers specialising in creations made from re-
Sun 11:00 - 16:00. claimed materials.QRotermanni 5/Roseni 10, tel. (+372)
56 49 56 57. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Krambude
Medieval wares..QC2, Vana turg 1, tel. (+372) 627 90 20, Bonbon lingerie
www.oldehansa.net. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Estonias very own brand of stylish and sexy underwear oozes
femininity.QE2, Prnu mnt 21, tel. (+372) 56 23 31 65, www.
Labora bon.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
A gift shop filled with local handmade goods, including
letterpress printed greeting cards, special seed cards Diana Arno
which you can later grow into wild flowers, mechanical This is a label for confident women with a highly devel-
wooden toys, icons, calligraphy books, limp binding note- oped awareness of style, an open-minded personality and
books and much more.QC3, Vene 18, tel. (+372) 56 60 self confidence.QC3, Vike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 56 45 59
19 01, www.labora.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. 00, www.dianaarno.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun.
Oma Asi
This quaint little shop houses unique Estonian creations. Embassy of Fashion
QC2, Saiakang 1, tel. (+372) 633 50 25, www.omaasi. A collective of some of Estonias top designers, Aldo Jrv-
com. Open 10:00 - 19:00. soo, Ketlin Bachmann and Riina Pldroos. You can also find
the extremely unique and sought after Tanel Veenre jew-
Parliament Shop ellry here.QE2, Tatari 6, www.embassyoffashion.com.
This shop sells souvenirs connected with Estonian inde- Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
pendence, as well as many publications and other locally
produced souvenirs.QC1, Toom-Kooli 3, tel. (+372) 696 Ivo Nikkolo
86 91. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Premium Estonian design business-wear for women.
QC2, Suur-Karja 14, tel. (+372) 641 90 58, www.
Saaremaa sepad ivonikkolo.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00,
The most wide-spread and famous of the blacksmith- Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
forged items in Estonia come from this company. Here you
can find anything from bottle-cap openers to swords to Les Petites Disaini- ja Moebutiik
candle-holders.QB3, Olevimgi 11, tel. (+372) 680 09 Small local design shop featuring creation from over 80
71, www.sepad.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Estonian designers, jewellers and handicrafters.QG3, Tel
liskivi 60A, tel. (+372) 58 17 68 31, www.lespetites.ee.
Willmar Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Estonian ethnic design.QC3, Viru 23, tel. (+372) 636 32
00, www.willmar.eu. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Namarie
Original worksby young Estonian fashion designers.QC3,
Mrivahe 21, tel. (+372) 53 43 07 56. Open 11:00 -
jewellery 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.

A-galerii Nu Nordik
Estonian-designed jewellery and fashion accessories. Clothes and more from young Estonian designers.
QC2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 646 41 01, www.agalerii. QD2, Vabaduse vljak 8, tel. (+372) 644 93 92, www.
ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. nunordik.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun
12:00 - 18:00.
by Karin
QC2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 56 15 66 53, www. Reet Aus
bykarine.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Ethical Estonian design with an emphasis on re-using or
Closed Sun. upcycling materials.QF3, Kalasadama 8 (Estonian De
sign House), www.reetaus.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat
Juveel 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
QD3, Prnu mnt 8, tel. (+372) 644 42 16, www.
juveel.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Tallinn Dolls
Closed Sun. QI3, Tatari 64, 4th floor, tel. (+372) 56 22 62 25, www.
tallinndolls.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 87
Shopping
There are plenty of opportunities to spend money shop-
ping in Tallinn. Old Town is literally lined with dozens of
souvenir, antique and speciality stores. Within Old Town
the main shopping streets are Viru, Mrivahe, Suur-
Karja, Vike-Karja and Kullassepa. The most central shop-
ping centre is Viru Centre home also to the Kaubamaja
department store. Kaubamaja and Stockmann offer
everything from electronics to cosmetics as well as
large clothing sections. Other smaller malls include the
Foorum Centre, the unique Rotermanni Kaubamaja and
the Solaris Centre.

Antiques
Tallinns antique stores sell a vast variety of items, from old
Russian Orthodox icons to antique fire heated clothing
irons. Theres lots of china and glassware, antique clocks
and even some decent jewellery available.

Antiik
Antique shop specialising in Orthodox icons.QC2, Kinga
5, tel. (+372) 646 62 32, www.antiqueshop.ee. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

Old Times Antique


QC2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372) 529 35 41/(+372) 631
47 25, www.oldtimes.ee. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Reval Antiik
Good selection, primarily if youre interested in things to
hang on your wall or put in a display case.QD2, Harju 13 alcohol
(entrance at Mrivahe 2), tel. (+372) 644 07 47. Open
10:00 - 17:45, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Please note that alcohol sales in Tallinn are prohibited
from 22:00 until 10:00.
Bookshops Liviko Alcostore
You wont find a great selection of books in English or other Estonias largest and longest running alcohol producer
foreign languages in Tallinn, but you wont be left without runs a few of its own stores stocked, naturally, full of
any reading material either. Rahva Raamat has the widest their own products and imported wares at competi-
selection of English language novels. tive prices.QC-3, Mere pst. 6, tel. (+372) 683 77 45,
kplmere@liviko.ee, www.alcostore.ee. Open 10:00
Apollo Raamatupood - 20:00. Also at: G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. 683 77 40.
A good selevction of English-language novels and travel
guides.QD3, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) Siidrimaja
633 60 00, www.apollo.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00. As of yet there are not a whole lot of
great ciders produced in Estonia, but the
Raamatukoi Cider House pretty much carries them
Specialising in antique books and vinyl records.QC2, all. They also feature a vast array of qual-
Harju 1, tel. (+372) 683 77 10, www.raamatukoi.ee. ity and craft ciders from across Europe.QH5, Masina
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun, Also 20. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
at: C-2, Voorimehe 9, tel. 683 77 13. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Uba ja Humal
This shop serves up both great coffees and superb
Rahva Raamat craft beers. They feature one of the widest varieties
Probably the best stocked in Estonia for English books, with ti- of quality Estonian beers, alongside some truly excel-
tles throughout the store.QC4, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), lent caffeinated beans from around the world.QG3,
tel. (+372) 644 66 55, www.rahvaraamat.ee. Open 09:00 Vrgu 3, tel. (+372) 56 94 21 42, info@ubajahumal.
- 21:00. Also at: D-3, Prnu mnt. 10, tel. 644 36 82. Open ee. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Mon - Fri 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
88 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
Commercial galleries Delicatessens
and art shops Chocolala
Galerii 36 Chocolate lovers rejoice! This family-owned luxury, fair
Paintings, prints, sculpture and stained glass can be found trade chocolate boutique features handmade choco-
here.QC1, Lhike jalg 8, tel. (+372) 644 16 58. Open lates without preservatives.QC3, Vike-Karja 1, tel.
12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (+372) 55 65 43 33, www.chocolala.ee. Open 11:00
- 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Galerii Fe
QC1, Lhike jalg 1, tel. (+372) 53 44 79 22, www.artfe. EHE Maitse Gurmee Vinoteek
eu. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A wide selection of Italian gourmet items including
meats, cheeses, olives, wines etc. are available from
Hindricus anno 1393 this very centrally located deli. For enjoyment on the
QC2, Lhike jalg 2, tel. (+372) 660 52 03. Open 10:00 - spot or to take home with you.QC2, Mndi 3, tel.
18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. (+372) 56 14 41 66. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

Hobusepea Galerii Juustukuningad


QC2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 528 53 24/(+372) 627 67 These Cheese Kings hail from Holland and so do all
77, www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex.htm. Open 11:00 - of their cheeses. Buy by the wheel or by the wedge,
18:00. Closed Tue. depending on how much space you have in your
suitcase.QG4, Rotermanni 2, tel. (+372) 656 47 44,
Lhikese Jala Galerii www.juustukuningad.ee. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri,
Beautifully displayed ceramics, glass and textiles.QC1, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Lhike jalg 6, tel. (+372) 631 47 20, www.hot.ee/lgalerii.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Osteria del Gallo Nero
This place is so Italian you may forget youre in Tallinn.
Expect all the best Italian wares, wines and conversa-
Fashion stores tion.QC2, Rataskaevu 4, tel. (+372) 646 21 07, www.
Accademia Boutique osteriagallonero.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri,
QC2, Rataskaevu 4, tel. (+372) 645 00 98. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.

H&M
QG3, Narva mnt. 1, www.hm.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Grocers
Kolmjalg (the Everything Store)
Lindex QC2, Rataskaevu 2, tel. (+372) 631 15 11. Open 24hrs.
QC3, Viru 13, tel. (+372) 615 55 40, www.lindex.com.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Rimi
QC3, Aia 7, tel. (+372) 644 38 55, www.rimi.ee.
Premium Fashion Outlet Open 08:00 - 23:00, Also at: C-2, Pikk 11, tel. (+372)
This fashion outlet store offers discounts up to -70% on 55 58 90 04. Open 07:30 - 23:00. Also at: C-3. Viru
featured brands such as Cerruti, Valentino, Ferre, Trussardi, 13/15. Open 07:30 - 23:00.
Dsquared, Versace, Moschino and a whole lot more.QB4,
Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 666 76 50. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun Selver
11:00 - 18:00. QB1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 619 24 40, www.
selver.ee. Open 07:00 - 23:00.
Siidilabor
Paris meets Tallinn in this handmade, accessory boutique. Stockmann
From hats to handbags and necklaces to rings you can find QH4, Liivalaia 53, tel. (+372) 633 95 39, www.
it here.QB3, Olevimgi 6, tel. (+372) 674 09 44, www. stockmann.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
siidilabor.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Tallinna Kaubamaja
Weekend Max Mara QD4, Gonsiori 2, tel. (+372) 667 31 00, www.
QD2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 620 02 36, www.maxmara.ee. kaubamaja.ee. Open 09:00 - 22:00.
Open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J
Westman
Zara QE2, Prnu mnt 19, tel. (+372) 660 51 82. Open
QC4, Viru Centre, Viru Vljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 610 13 66. 24hrs.
Open 09:00 - 21:00.
facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 89
Rotermann Quarter Me OLD TOWN
Shopping
Find the shopping and entertainment district VIRU SQUARE 30m
re
ps
t.
in the area G-3 on the city centre map; also
partially visible in the area B/C-3 on the Old 1
Town map. 3
5
4

6
Ho
buj
aam
as
tr e

Ahtri street PASSANGER PORT 300m


et

1 2
Stradivarius Reede
Stradivarius offers Reede offers apparel, footwear
an extensive range and accessories from brands like
of fashion collections and accessories for a young, Norse Projects, Wood Wood, Henrik Vibskov, Carhartt,
modern woman. QC-4, Rotermanni 8, tel. (+372) Cheap Monday, Nike, Dr. Martens, Adidas, New Balance,
664 50 13, str.rotermanni.tallinn@apranga.com, Nixon, Makia, Supra, Insight and Qwstion.QB4, Roter
www.stradivarius.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun manni 5, tel. (+372) 660 95 70, hei@reede.ee, www.
11:00 - 18:00. reede.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

3 4
Platz Basiilik Pizza & Pasta
This stylish yet elegant eatery nestled Delicious pizzas and pastas in the heart
into an old, industrial limestone building is of Tallinn. All-you-can-eat pizza and soup
where youll find artfully prepared cuisine, buffet, Mon - Fri from 11:30 - 15:00 - for a mere 6.50 you
that is both innovative and a fresh fusion can enjoy 3 different pizzas and 3 different soups. See full
of European flavours using local ingredients whenever review in the restaurant section on p.54. Q G-3, Hobujaa
possible. See full review in the restaurant section p.62. ma 5, in Coca-Cola Plaza, tel. (+372) 56 50 99 91, info@
QB-4, Roseni 7, tel. (+372) 664 50 86, info@platz.ee, basiilik.ee, www.basiilik.ee.Open 11:30 - 23:00, Also at: H/I-
www.platz.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 5, Tartu mnt. 87, tel. (+372) 56 20 21 17. Open 11:00 - 22:00.

5 6
Bershka
Bershka offers the
Pull and Bear latest fashionware,
This brand is targeted at style-conscious youngsters, accessories and fo-
offering great quality for a reasonable price.QC4, otwear for adventurous young people. QC-4,
Rotermanni 8, tel. (+372) 664 50 16, pb.rotermanni. Rotermanni 12, tel. (+372) 664 50 05, bsk.ro
tallinn@apranga.com, www.pullandbear.com. termanni.tallinn@apranga.com, www.bershka.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

90 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com


Shopping
Jacadi
Karja Quarter Childrens clothing.QC3, Vike-Karja 12, tel. (+372) 601
There are many fine and upscale boutiques located in and 02 31, www.jacadi.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
around Old Town, however, the area between Prnu mnt. 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
and Harju street, centred around Suur-Karja and Vike-Karja
streets is fast becoming the luxury shopping destination in M Fashion
Tallinn. Although not, yet, officially called the Karja Quarter, Featuring labels such as Billionaire, Harmont & Blaine, Brioni,
its a name weve come up with to classify this district. Be- Corneliani, Pierre Balmain.QC3, Vike-Karja 5, tel. (+372)
low youll find a list of many of the high-end brands and 661 69 19. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
boutiques to be found in this area. See the centre-spread
(p. 50-51) for a map of the area, along with a list of our ad- MaxMara
vertisers. QD3, Prnu mnt. 8, tel. (+372) 631 05 14, www.
maxmara.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Burberry Closed Sun.
QD3, Prnu mnt.12/Suur-Karja 20, tel. (+372) 631 33
24, https://ee.burberry.com/. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat Mulberry
11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. This boutique represents luxury English fashion brand
Mulberry.QC2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 646 75 35,
Emporio Armani www.mulberry.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 -
QD3, Prnu mnt. 10/ Vike-Karja 12, tel. (+372) 628 22 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00.
72, www.armani.com/ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. nude
QD3, Prnu mnt.10/ Suur-Karja 23, tel. (+372) 622 92 02.
Freywille Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
This famous Viennese jewellery brand offers up unique
and exclusive creations for the discerning buyer.QD3, Studio T
Prnu mnt. 12, tel. (+372) 602 50 50, www.freywille. Featuring brands such as Armani Collezioni, Ralph Lauren,
com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Paul Smith, Moncler, Armani Jeans, Jacob Cohen, Dondup
and many more.QD2, Suur-Karja 18/Mrivahe 16, tel.
Gerry Weber (+372) 641 19 46, www.studiot.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00,
A dynamic lifestyle brand for women by a famous German Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00, Also at: E-2, Prnu
fashion house.QC3, Valli 4, tel. (+372) 648 06 66, www. mnt. 25 (mens clothing). Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
gerryweber.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. - 17:00, Sun closed.

Hugo Boss Versace


QD2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 06 10. Open 10:00 - 19:00, QD3, Vike-Karja 9, tel. (+372) 648 81 05, www.
Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. versace.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun
11:00 - 16:00.

vintage
Shoes
Fankadelik Dboiss
This tiny, funky vintage shop-hair salon is dedicated to High-end, ready-to-wear and custom mens footwear.QD3,
all things artsy. Fresh designs by young and hip Esto- Suur-Karja 20, tel. (+372) 605 64 60, www.dboiss.com.
nian designers.QC3, Vana-Viru 6, www.fankadelik. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
com. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Piolo
Muigur Vintage Stiili Pood Handmade shoes from Tuscany, Italy.QC2, Suur-Karja 3,
Vintage style clothes, accessories and handmade tel. (+372) 51 91 48 19, info@pioloshoes.eu. Open 11:00
jewellery.QH3, Adamsoni 2, tel. (+372) 56 62 28 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
47, www.muigur.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 -
16:00. Closed Sun. Vivian Vau Shoe Salon
The exquisite shoes and boots are made
The House of Vintage Frames for Vivian Vau in Italy and Spain, designed
Previously unworn, vintage and stylish eyeglass to be comfortable are made of leather
frames. Specialising in rare and designer brands. and come in many colours. Sizes from 33 - 45.QC2, Ra
QMrivahe 28, tel. (+372) 517 86 81. Open 11:00 taskaevu 2, tel. (+372) 641 64 40, www.vivianvau.ee.
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 91


Shopping
Shopping centres
Foorum Centre
A collection of high end shops, located at street level, in a
beautifully designed building.QG4, Narva mnt. 5, info@
foorumkeskus.ee, www.foorumshopping.ee. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Kristiine Centre
A large, modern mall just outside the city centre.QH2, Endla
45, tel. (+372) 665 03 41, www.kristiinekeskus.ee. Open
10:00 - 21:00. Prisma grocery store open 08:00 - 23:00.

Meriton Aqua &


Sauna Center
Solaris
Although more of an all-in-one
entertainment complex than purely a shopping centre,
Solaris does have a reasonable amount of shops, often
higher end, where you can leave your money in lieu of Enjoy and relax - 4 saunas, 2 pools and
goods.QD/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9, tel. (372) 615 51 00, a lot of fun. Welcome to Meriton Aqua &
info@solaris.ee, www.solaris.ee. Open 09:00 - 23:00 Sauna Center. Open daily 7:00 22:00
Shops open 10:00 - 21:00. parkinn.com/hotel-meriton-tallinn/wellness

Stockmann Park Inn by Radisson Meriton


Conference & Spa Hotel Tallinn
The local branch of Toompuiestee 27, Tallinn
Finlands premiere department store is a somewhat
high-end affair. Just about everything you can imagi-
ne is sold in the five-storey complex.QH-4, Liivalaia
53, tel. (+372) 633 95 39, www.stockmann.ee. Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Markets
DEPOO
Tallinna Kaubamaja Located just around the corner from and replacing the cur-
Tallinns giant, home-grown department store dates back rently closed (set to reopen in 2017) Balti Jaam Market, De-
to 1960, but has done a great job of keeping pace with the poo features an assortment of vendors, previously enjoyed
times. A glass gallery connects it to the Viru Keskus, where clothes, antiques, food products and a whole lot more.
it has additional departments.QD-4, Gonsiori 2, tel. (+372) QG3, Telliskivi 62, tel. (+372) 641 34 36, https://astri.ee/
667 31 00, www.kaubamaja.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00 Food depoo/. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
department open 09:00 - 22:00.
Fish Market
lemiste Centre Located on the aptly named Fish Beach street, this
This gigantic, two-level shopping mall next to Tallinns air- speciality fish market has everything from shark fins to
port has hands-down the most retail space of any mall in monk fish.QF3, Kalaranna 1, www.tallinnaturud.ee/
town. For serious shoppers, its worth the short trip from kalaturg/. Open only on Saturdays 10:00 - 16:00.
the centre.QI6, Suur-Sjame 4, next to Tallinn Airport,
tel. (+372) 603 49 99, info@ulemiste.ee, www.ulemiste. Knit Market
ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Little old ladies sell their knitwear here along the Old Town
wall. Shopping here is almost a tradition for visitors.QC3,
corner of Viru and Mrivahe. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Viru Keskus
This 30,000m2 shopping and Sadama Turg
dining complex a large, but Various Estonian handicrafts and food items can be found
very classy addition to down- at this market in the port area.QG4, Sadama 25, www.
towns commercial scene.QC-4, Viru vljak 4/6, sadamaturg.ee. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
tel. (+372) 610 14 44, fax (+372) 610 14 01, info@
virukeskus.com, www.virukeskus.com. Open 09:00 Viru Market
- 21:00 Food department open 09:00 - 22:00. Lots of knits on sale in the yard adjacent the tram stop.
QC4, Mere pst. 1. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
92 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com
Directory
Beauty care, spa & wellness Hedone
A different kind of escape
Kalev Spa Wellness Centre from the brutal Baltic weather
Offering top-notch treatment from is this sophisticated, oriental massage club. Slip on a
professional staff of spa therapists.QB-3, comfy robe, sink into a deep sofa, take a puff on the
Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 50, wellness@ water pipe and get wet in the Jacuzzi that dominates
kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee. Open the main room. Before you ask, here massage means
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 17.00. just that, though the hands-on staff wear alluring
belly-dancers outfits. There are several varieties of
massages available. Reservation recommended.QC-
Meriton Wellness Spa 3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 631 34 04, info@hedone.ee,
They offer a wide range of treatments that will leave you www.hedone.ee. Open 11:00 - 06:00, Mon, Tue, Sun
relaxed, pampered and rejuvenated.QH3, Paldsiki mnt. 11:00 - 02:00.
4, tel. (+372) 628 82 21, wellness.meriton.tallinn@
rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn.com/hotel-
meriton-tallinn. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Your Pleasure
Offering a range of relaxing
Pin-up Tallinn and sensual massages, this
This hair salon for men and women seems more like a curi- discreetly located and cosy salon certainly keeps their
osities shop than hairdresser, but offers a welcome change clients happy. Once you step inside you are immedi-
from the hundreds of seemingly similar salons throughout ately treated to a stress-free environment and a place
town. The wooden interior almost takes you back in time to escape your worries. Their well trained and friendly
to a turn of the century barber shop, save of course for all masseuses will explain the treatments on offer and will
the pin-up girls.QB2, Vaimu 1, tel. (+372) 58 08 81 21. ensure that your experience is a pleasurable one. See
Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. website for the massages available and make sure to
book in advance.QG4, Narva mnt. 7, tel. (+372) 511
Vanalinna Salong 33 84, salon@pleasure.ee, www.pleasure.ee. Open
QD2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 631 40 36, www. 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00.
vanalinnasalong.ee. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 -
16:00. Closed Sun.
pharmacies
BENU+ Apteek
Massage & joint care QC-3, Aia 7 (Rimi supermarket), tel. (+372) 648 41 99,
Aurea Massage Studio www.benu.ee. Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 20:00,
QG4, Narva mnt. 7d, tel. (+372) 669 67 73/(+372) 56 93 Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
76 77, www.aurea.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tnisme Apteek
Kaarli Massaai Keskus QE-1, Tnismgi 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 82, www.s
A wide range of quality massage treatments for men dameapteek.ee. Open 24hrs.
and women. See website for full details, cash only.
QH2, Toompuiestee 4, tel. (+372) 515 29 99, www.
kaarlimassaaz.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. post
Tallinn Trigenics Pain Treatment Centre If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, theres
Specialising in physiotherapy, chiropractic, osteopathy, acu- no need to visit a post office. Pretty much any kiosk will
puncture, natural medicine and spinal decompression ther- sell you stamps, just make sure theyre the right value for
apy, Clinic Director Dr. Allan Oolo has more than 30 years of what youre sending and where. Once youve got your
clinical experience.QPrnu mnt. 139C, tel. (+372) 621 47 97, stamps licked and affixed, drop your mail in any post
info@kliinik.com, www.kiropraktik.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. box. These are the small orange boxes attached to build-
Closed Sat, Sun. Call ahead to book an appointment. ings around town. Dont put your mail in the dark green
boxes with round holes in the sides. Those are trash bins.
shoe repair & key cuts Old Town Post Office
Youll be able to purchase and send post cards and
Fix-Serv other souvenirs and small items from this handy lo-
QC-3, Aia 3 (WW Passa), tel. (+372) 627 12 34. cation.QC-3, Viru 20, tel. (+372) 661 66 16, www.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. omniva.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun closed.

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket October - November 2016 93


Visit our brand new flagship
Olympic Park Casino
at Hilton Tallinn Park hotel !

Fr. R. Kreutzwaldi 23, Tallinn

Cocktail and sushi bar


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F ORS AD
Entertainment program K I
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FRY PRES
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TALLINN CITY
Pirita 1 km
4 5 Viimsi 7 km

6 Estonian History Museum-


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Maarjame castle

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duk 65
Via ik Cinema
p
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101

Market
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2,65

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Lennujaam
Sea passenger's
Ve
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46

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Va

Kaabli
123
Street register
Aarde G-1 Kannikese H-1 Lehe I/J-1 Prnu I-3/J-2 Terase G/H-4
Adamsoni H-2 Knnu I/J-1 Lembitu H-3 Peterburi I-5/6 Tihase I-1
Ahtri G-3 Ko J-1/2 Lennujaama I-5 Petrooleumi G-4/5 Tina G-4
Aia C/D-4 Karjavrava D-3 Lennuki H-3 Piiskopi D-1 Tobiase H-4
Aida B-2 Karu G-4 Liblika I-1 Pikk B-3/C-2 Tolli B-3
Alevi J-2 Kasvu H-1 Liivalaia H-3/4 Pikk jalg D-2 Tondi J-2
Alle G-5 Katariina kik C-3 Liivame H-4 Pirita F-6/G-5 Tnismgi H-2
Allika H-3 Kauba I-2/J-3 Lille H-1 Planeedi I-2 Toom-Kooli D-1
Ao H-2 Kauka H-3 Linda G-2 Phja A-4/B-2 Toom-Rtli C-2
Apteegi C-3 Kauna I-3 Lindamgi H-2 Poska G-5 Toompea E-1
Aru F/G-1 Kaupmehe H-3 Linnu tee J-1 Preesi G-1 Toompuiestee C-1
Asula I/J-2 Kauri I-1 Lootsi G-4 Pronksi G/H-4 Toonela I-4
Asunduse H-5 Keemia H-1 Lkke H-2 Punane H-6 Tstuse A-1
Auli J-1/2 Keldrime H-4 Lokese J-2 Phavaimu C-3 Tormi G-5
Auna G-1 Kentmanni H-3 Lubja H-4 Raekoja D-2 Town Hall D-2
Auru J-3 K-Kalamaja B-1 Luha I-2 Raekoja plats D-2 Tuha H-5
Bensiini G-5 Kesk-Ameerika I-2 Luige I-1 Rahukohtu C-1 Tulbi H-1
Bremeni kik C-3 Kesk-Sjame J-6 Luise H-2 Ranname B-1/4 Tulika H-1/I-2
Dunkri D-2 Kevade H-2 Luste F-1 Rapla J-2 Turba G-6
Eha H-2 Kibuvitsa H-1 Lhike jalg D-2 Rataskaevu C-2 Tri J-2/3
Endla H-1/2 Killustiku H-5 Madara H-1/2 Raua G/H-4 Tuukri G-4
Erika F-1 Kinga C-2 Mekalda G/H-5 Rvala H-3 Tuuleme I-5
Estonia pst E-3/4 Kiriku C/D-1 Magasini H/I-3 Ravi H-3 Tve J-1
Faehlmanni H-4 Kiriku pik C-1 Magdaleena J-2 Reinvaldi H-4 Tuvi H-2
Falgi D-1 Kiriku plats D-1 Maisi G-1 Roheline aas H-5 Trnpu H-4
Filmi G-5 Kivimurru I-5 Majaka H/I-5 Rohu G-2 lemiste tee I-5
Filtri I-4 Kodu I-3 Malmi G-2 Roopa H-2 Uue maailma I-2
Gildi H-4 Kohtu D-2 Maneezhi G-3 Roosikrantsi H-3 Uus B/D-3
Gonsiori H-3/5 Koidu H/I-2 Mardi H-4 Roseni B-4 Uus turg D-3
Gmnaasiumi C-2 Koidula G-4/H-5 Mehaanika H/I-1 Rotermanni C-4 Uus-Kalamaja F-2
Haigru I-1 Kie F-2 Mere A/D-4 Rukki F-1 Uus-Sadama G-4
Hane J-1 Kolde G-1 Metalli H-1 Rutu C-1 Vabaduse v. E-2
Haraka J-2 Kleri G-4/5 Mineraali H-1 Rtli D/E-2 Vabriku G-2
Hariduse H-3 Kollane H-4 Mooni H/I-1 Sadama G-3 Vike-Ameerika I-2
Hrjapea G-1 Komandandi E-1 Mulla G/H-1 Saiakang C-2 Vike-Karja D-3
Harju D/E-2 Komeedi H-2 Mndi C-2 Sakala E-3 Vike-Kloostri C-2
Hauka I-2 Kooli B-2 Munga C-3 Saku J-2 Vike-Laagri F-2
Heina F-1/G-2 Kopli B-1 Muti J-1 Salme F-2 Vike-Sjame J-6
Hermanni H-4 Koskla H/I-1 Mrivahe C-3/D-2 Saturni I-2 Vaimu B/C-3
Herne I-3 Kotka I/J-2 Nafta G-4 Saue G-2 Valli D-3
Hbeda H-4 Kotkapoja I-2 Narva G-3/6 Sauna D-3 Vana-Kalamaja B-1
Hobusepea C-2 Kotzebue A-1/2 Nepi I-2 Sle G/H-1 Vana turg D-3
Imanta H-4 Kreutzwaldi H-4 Nevski D-2 Spruse pst I/J-1 Vana-Luna I-3
Inseneri C-4 Kristiina I-2 Niguliste D-2 Spordi I/J-2 Vana-Viru D-4
Invaliidi H/I-3 Kuhlbarsi H-4 Niine A-1/2 Staadioni H-4 Vana-Posti D-2
Jahu F-3 Kullassepa D-2 Nisu F/G-1 Sda H-3 Vanaturu kael D-2
Jakobi H-4 Kullerkupu H-1 Nmme I-2 Sgise G-2 Vase G-4
Jakobsoni H-4 Kulli J-1 Nunne C-1/2 Suitsu J-3 Veerenni I/J-3
Jrvevana I-4/J-3 Kunderi H-4 Odra H-4 Sulevimgi B-3 Veetorni H-2
Joa G-6 Kungla F-2 Olevimgi B/C-3 Suur Kloostri C-2 Vene C-3
Je G-4 Kuninga D-2 Oleviste B-3 Suur Rannavrav A-3 Vesivrava G-4
Juhkentali H-3/I-4 Kure J-1 Orase G-1 Suur-Ameerika H-2 Videviku I-2
Kaarli pst E-1/2 Kuristiku G-6 Oru G-6 Suur-Karja D-3 Vilmsi G-4
Kbliku I-1 Laagna G/H-6 Otsa E-3 Suur-Laagri F-2 Vineeri I-3
Kadri G-6 Laboratooriumi B-2 Paavli F-1 Suurgildi C-2 Virmalise I-2
Kadriorg G-5 Lagle I-2 Pae H-6 Suurtki B-2 Viru D-3/4
Kaera F-1 Lahe G-5 Paekaare H-6 Tartu H-4/J-6 Vidujooksu G-6
Kai G-3 Lai B-3/C-2 Paekivi I-5 Tatari H/I-3 Vistluse I-4
Kajaka J-1 Lasname G/H-6 Pagari B-3 Teatri square E-4 Voorimehe C-2
Kalasadama F-3 Lastekodu H/I-4 Paide J-2/3 Tedre I-1/J-2 Weidemanni G-4
Kalevi F-2 Laulupeo H-4 Paldiski H-2 Tehnika G/I-2 Weizenbergi G-5
Kalju F-2 Lauteri H-3 Prna H-4 Telliskivi G-2/H-1 Wismari E-1

98 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com


STOCKMANN
department store the best
place for shopping in Tallinn!
A wide and inspiring selection of
international brands and goods can
be found in our fashion, cosmetics,
electronics, home and food
department. You can also visit our
liquor store and cafe&bakery.

Ask for your tourist discount.


Welcome to Stockmann!

SA

VE
K

C
TH E DU

LIIVALAIA 53, TALLINN Mon-Sat 9-21, Sun 10-21 WWW.STOCKMANN.EE

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