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 Upfront

Bagging Bagan
Read our expert
guide to South-East THE TEAM
Asia on p40
What have
theybeen up
tothismonth?

PHOEBE SMITH
EDITOR
Driving a little-known
highway that connects
Alaska to mainland USA
SEE PAGE 24

Welcome 5 THINGS
WE LEARNED
THIS ISSUE:
TOM HAWKER
Time and time again we get told our annual
1 According to Aboriginal legend, PRODUCTION EDITOR
Reader Travel Awards are the most respected Booking his next family
whales beach themselves upon adventure with a new
around, truly reflecting the views of you, our
death to return the spirits of unborn dose of confidence
well-travelled readers. The results are always SEE PAGE 68
children back to the land; p54
a mix of the expected (will any airport ever
surpass Changi?) and the surprises if Guernsey
was an independent country it would have
caused a major upset! To see which countries, companies, and
2 Melting snow, the midnight sun,
lakes and birch forests make Arctic
Sweden in summer prime walking
more you really rated on your travels, turn to p91. territory; p80
One thing that came out strongly was that, despite the digital
age, you love books as much as ever. So it felt fitting to recognise
Stanfords booksellers in our new Travel Icon award its Covent
Garden store alone has been the start of many a journey.
3 Travelling the world by rail on your
own? Many sleeper trains offer
single cabins for the same price as
GARETH CLARK
SUB EDITOR/WRITER
Discovering what watery
wildlife he can swim with
But digital offers many brilliant opportunities to share more doubles; p100 next on his travels
of Wanderlust with you. So, wherever you see an Xtra symbol

4
SEE PAGE 64
in this magazine, you can scan it with your phone to see
North Wales is a foodie hub 41 of
bonus content. its restaurants appear in the 2017
Happy reading (and scanning), Michelin guide; p131

5 Living in Canadas
Yukon is tough
Cover image A Monk In Talo Monastery, Punakha District Bhutan Keith Levit/Getty This page Dreamstime; Neil S Price

some residents RHODRI ANDREWS

have to travel EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
nearly 200km to Becoming spellbound
by New Zealands Maori-
Lyn Hughes do their weekly infused landscapes
Editor-In-Chief/Publisher/Co-founder shopping; p24 SEE PAGE 133

5
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This issue

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MATTHEWS FRESCURA STILLMAN
Singer and Visit Wales ambassador Winner of the Visitors Vote in the Bar-hopping author
Facebook www.facebook.com/wanderlusttravelmagazine
2016 Wanderlust Travel Photo of
Singer Cerys has toured all the Year competition From the cocktail bars of
THE TEAM around the world as the Tokyo to the secret
Lyn Hughes Editor-in-Chief, Publisher & Co-founder
Phoebe Smith Editor frontwoman of 90s Welsh You loved Giovannis shot of speakeasies of Buenos
Graham Berridge Art Director indie band Catatonia, but a majestic snowy owl Aires, theres few worldly
Tom Hawker Production Editor proves nowhere is quite like swooping beneath a watering holes Adrienne
Gareth Clark Sub-Editor/Writer home with her role as a looming stormcloud in hasnt enjoyed a tipple in.
Rhodri Andrews Editorial Assistant passionate ambassador for Qubec, Canada, with And with the help of
Mike Wright Art Editor Visit Wales. With 2017 being visitors to the London bartenders across the
Graeme Green Web Editor
Peter Moore Associate Web Editor the countrys Year of Destinations Travel Show globe, shes handpicked her
Heidi Hodgkins Commercial Manager Legend she shares with us 2017 voting it their favourite top drinkeries in new book
Chris Debbinney-Wright Creative Solutions the folklore that the Welsh at our Travel Photo of the Where Bartenders Drink. For
Nathan Inns Senior Sales Executive hills and coasts are Year exhibition see his five of her favourites in
Simon Chubb Technology Director plentifully steeped in (p18) winning image on p8 South America, see p76
Danny Callaghan Finance & Operations Director
David Forder Marketing Manager
Sue Spoor Subscriptions Manager Mountain, desert, ocean Mountain, desert, ocean Mountain, desert, ocean
Pauline Moore Accounts Assistant or jungle which are you? or jungle which are you? or jungle which are you?
Corinne Dainton Subs Assistant Mountain. Jungle, no question. Its got Mountain.
Assisted by James Callery (web intern) First great travel so much wildlife. First great travel
Mark Carwardine, Paul Goldstein, experience? First great travel experience?
Alastair Humphreys & William Gray Contributing Editors Almost dying off the coast of experience?
Ze Office dog
Paris, for Christmas the year
the Pacific island of Nauru Visiting the national parks of I turned 12. It was my first
when I was wild swimming. the USA for the first time. time outside the US and I
In memory of co-founder & publisher Paul Morrison
Favourite journey? The impact the nature had adored every minute of it.
Wanderlust Publications Ltd, 2017, ISSN 1351-4733
Probably when I went to on me was amazing. Favourite journey?
Published by Wanderlust Publications Ltd, 1 Leworth Place, Windsor SL4 1EB. All Kiribati in the central Pacific. Favourite journey?
rights are reserved. Reproduction in any manner, in whole or in part, is strictly
Sailing from island to island
forbidden without the prior written consent of the publishers. No responsibility for Top five places Travelling through Hwange in and around Mount Desert
incorrect information can be accepted. Views expressed in articles are those of the worldwide? National Park in Zimbabwe. Island in Maine.
authors, and not necessarily the publishers. Wanderlust is a registered trademark. Its got to be Wales, It was completely silent with Top five places worldwide?
US DISTRIBUTION obviously, and Norway. only elephants for company Napa Valley, USA; New York
Wanderlust, ISSN 1351-4733, is published monthly except Dec/Jan and Jul/Aug I think those two are enough! nothing more. City, USA; Paris, France;
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For details please go to www.wanderlust.co.uk/aboutus Passport stamp youd my homeland, Italy. My French visa from when
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Looking for high-impact travel content? Wanderlust Travel Media produces Tibet. youreproudest of? Passport stamp youd
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and organisations. For details, see www.wanderlusttravelmedia.com. The tour buses with guides Passport stamp youd Cuba.
LICENSING & SYNDICATION ENQUIRIES shouting at you through most like to have? Guilty travel pleasure?
Bruce Sawford, Bruce Sawford Licensing
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their microphones I love Tonga. Drinking bubbly and eating
those things! Oh, and also Guilty travel pleasure? bar snacks while binge-
Printing Wyndeham Roche, Victoria Business Park Roche, St Austell,
Cornwall PL26 8LX the Fat Tire Tours in places My only real travel pleasure watching HBO TV on my
Newstrade distribution COMAG Specialist: 01895 433800 like Berlin. is taking lots of photos. infrequent first class flights.
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2| Wanderlust April 2017

 A NTIC
SOUTH ATL

St Helena Islands unique character lies in contrasting and spectacular scenery,

a rich cultural heritage and an environment exceptionally rich in biodiversity.
These are just a few of the reasons why this remote jewel in the South Atlantic
Ocean is the perfect destination for active exploration and discovery.

www.sthelenatourism.com
@visit.sthelena @sthelenatourism
360
1
I 1

I 1

I
V i e w f i n d e r
FJORD FRONT ROW
Naeryfjord, Norway
Photographer: Adam Major
Glancing up at Norways fjords from boat or
kayak is one of travels eye-popping sights.
But as snapper Adam Major expertly shows
in this shot of a hiker gazing upon
glacier-carved Naeryfjord from atop the
perilous edge of Breiskrednosi, sometimes
the most epic views are from above. This
spectacle of natures paintbrush is one of
the shortlisted photos featured in this years
accompanying book for the annual Outdoor
Photographer of the Year 2016 competition.
Pure natural drama.
Outdoor Photographer of the Year:
Portfolio II (Ammonite Press; 25).
Out now; www.opoty.co.uk
 360 Viewfinder

WINGING IT
Qubec, Canada
Photographer: Giovanni Frescura
Few moments transfix our attention like
a bird of prey in full flight, especially one
with a wingspan like this snowy owl (up to
1.5m) indeed birdwatchers venture across
the globe to see these owls in their natural
Arctic habitat. Usually snapped scanning
the ground for food, this owl has been
captured by Giovanni Frescuras camera as
it seeks solace of an entirely different form:
shelter from the storm overhead. It seems
the owls majesty caught your eye, too: this
image was chosen by the thousands who
viewed the Wanderlust Travel Photo of the
Year exhibition at this years Destinations
Travel Show as your Visitors Vote winner.
Keep an eye out for details of this years
Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year
competition later in 2017
 360 Viewfinder

JUST DESERT?
Namib Desert, Namibia
Photographer: Jrgen Wettke
The oldest desert in the world, the Namibs
dunes have bewitched travellers for
Millennia. One of the more recent visitors
to fall under their 55 million-year-old spell is
photographer Jrgen Wettke, who has
devoted a whole book to its sandy
expanses. Here Jrgen frames the
Sossusvlei Sands as a pyramidal ochre
dune is surrounded by tree-studded creamy
sands and chocolatey whipped mounds.
Proof that nature is the ultimate artist.
The Namib Desert Art. Structures.
Colors. by Jrgen Wettke (50, teNeues)
www.teneues.com
 12 THINGS YOU
Going up
A cable car heads
towards the top of
Sugarloaf Mountain in

NEED TO KNOW
Rio de Janeiro

THIS MONTH...
Your April essentials: Copenhagen is hip, historic
and happy; Cerys talks Wales; we get hot for
chillies; the Falklands celebrates an anniversary

1
Tr a v e l I s s u e s

Cable cars are

on the rise
The latest travel trend at tourist sites? Cable cars, making difficult to reach
summit views quick and easy but is that always the best way?

A
glimpse over Norways
fjordlands always affords
spectacular views. And
like most epic vistas,
theyre hard-earned.
But in May, summiting
these Scandinavian valleys is about to become
a lot easier, with a new cable car whisking
you to the top of Mount Hoven (1,011m), in
western Norway, in five minutes. Normally,
youd have to undergo a gruelling seven-hour,
6km via ferrata (mountain climbing route).
Its not alone either,
as cable cars are
becoming a common
Cable Cars boost the local
sight at cities and economy and open up
tourist sites around the
planet as people hidden travel gems too
demand easier access to
these golden vantage points. The fjords are
steep and difficult to reach for many, so this
means everyone can enjoy them from
above, says Richard Grov, general manager
of Norways new cable car, the Loen Skylift.
It seems most of you agree, too, with our
poll showing over four out of five of you
enjoy riding cable cars on your travels. Its
easy to see why a place would add them
easy access to a previously difficult to reach
place is usually going to be a money maker.
They do boost the local economy and add
an invaluable source of tourism to a
country, says mountaineer Alan Hinkes.
But, they also open up hidden gems to
travellers too. Think of the Alps where
traditionally a lot of the walks start with a
cable car, forgoing the boring metres of
ascent and getting you high and into the
really prime walking territory.
But is quicker and easier always a good
thing? Many new cable car locations already
have historic routes to trace, such as a
multi-day walk, or a via
ferrata, like in Loen.
Cable cars can be
noisy too, says Laurent
Dauby from the
International
Association for Public
Transport. Even in cities they can be quite
invasive, not just to the landscape but people
as well. And Alan warns we should be
sensitive to their location: They need to be
in keeping with the place and its environment.
So, cable cars can be fast, direct and, most
importantly, inclusive offering views to an
expanded audience. But its worth
remembering that sometimes, the journey
needed to make the vista can make the
experience that much sweeter.
Getty

12 | Wanderlust April 2017

 360 Need to Know

The Nitty Gritty

Cable car superstars
If you cant beat them, ride the
best ones we say...

1 Mi Telefrico, Bolivia
The worlds highest cable car
(over 4,000m above sea level),
which connects La Paz with the
Andean city of El Alto, affords
spectacular cityscapes and
mountain views. The cheap-as-
chips 25p fare is pretty good, too...

2 Ngong Ping 360, Hong Kong

Glass-bottomed cars mean you
get a first-hand, birds-eye glimpse
of Hong Kongs lush Lantau Island,
zipping over its forested hills to the
34m-tall Tian Tan Buddha statue
and the sacred Po Lin monastery.

3 CabriO, Switzerland
Feel the alpine wind in your hair
on the planets only open-top cable
car. Rising to the top of the
1,900m-high Mount Stanserhorn in
seven minutes, youll bag unrivalled
views of Lake Lucerne at its summit.

4 Cape Town, South Africa

One of the biggest cable car
success stories, the Aerial
Cableway has been part of the
furniture since it opened in 1929,
giving speedy access to Cape
Towns towering Table Mountain.

5 Banff Gondola, Canada

See the expanse of the Rockies
and snaking Bow River in all their
glory via an eight-minute whisk to
the top of 2,281m Sulphur Mountain,
matching the perspectives of big
horn mountain sheep and marmots.

Online Reader Poll

Do you enjoy cable car rides on
your travels?

No, I like
It depends soaking up
on what the the location on
alternative route is the ground
15% 4%
Yes, they offer
me much Yes, they offer unique
easier access and spectacular views
7% 74%

Wanderlust April 2017 | 13

360 Need to Know

New Routes

GO
NOW...

Pastel pedalling

2
Copenhagens
Nyhavn is perfect for
cafes and cycling

Danish history meets

Scandi-chic in Copenhagen
Why go?
Whats the secret to
Danish capitals cheer? The cosy
philosophy of hygge, the locals
say (along with raft of socially
minded legislation). And as
Ryanair launches new flights
from Stansted in March, the
chance for visitors to lap up
Copenhagens feel-good fever
isnt far away.
But the famous pastel-hued
harbourside buildings and caf
culture of the Nyhavn district
are just the starting point for
a city that sits on a cycle-able
intersection of Nordic history
and modern Scandi-cool. Canal-
fringed Indre By (inner city) boasts
medieval wonders: the gold-and-
green Marmorkirken dome and
the 17th-century Round Tower
is Europes oldest functioning
observatory, while the speckling
of castles and palaces house
Europes oldest monarchy. For
a taste of bohemia, head to the
islet of Christianshavn home to
the autonomous neighbourhood
of Freetown Christiania.
Fast trains unlock the North
Zealand coast, a tapestry of lakes,
woodland and Kronborg Castle,
and Swedens Malm is less than
an hours drive over the resund
Bridge. But its best to soak up the
citys delights by pedalling those
cycle-friendly streets or simply
sipping a coffee in one of its Old
Town squares hygge at its best.
Where to stay?
Eco-hotel Babette
Guldsmeden (guldsmedenhotels.
com/babette) sits in the heart of
the city centre. Doubles from
134 (114).
Get there now!
Ryanair launches flights
from London Stansted to
Copenhagen three times daily
from 26 Mar. From 26 return;
ryanair.com
Or how about this.
Monarch fly twice aweek
from Manchester to Dubrovnik
from 29 Apr. From 32 each way;
monarch.co.uk

CINEMA GEAR TV

3 SEE THIS... 4 BUY THIS... 5HEAR THIS...

Dreamstime; 2016 -Fabula/AZ Films/Funny Balloons/Setembro Cine- All Rights Reserved;

Neruda Helinox Chair Zero The Rough Guide to everywhere

In cinemas from 7 April
Chiles landscapes are already
pretty poetic, but director Pablo
Larran gives them the same
bold aesthetic that enriched
his recent Jackie biopic. The
fugitive tackling those wild plains and snow-
capped peaks is the 1940s poet Pablo Neruda,
pursued by the fascist governments agents and
on his way to becoming a national folk hero.
105, www.helinox.eu
It might seem odd to take a chair
on your travels but spend a few
days on a multi-day treks and you
will soon appreciate the value of
a lightweight, foldable back-rest
number. Weighing 490g (less then a half-litre
bottle of water) and measuring 35x10cm when
folded down it wont take up much space in your
luggage so you can feel smug while you relax...
Free, iTunes (out now)
Some tales just arent suitable
for the guide book, which is
why this podcast from the
Rough Guides team hosted
by their travel editor Greg
Dickinson is so easy on the ears. Among the
writers and adventurers whove amiably chatted
through their real experiences on the road are
Dervla Murphy, Ruby Wax and Charlie Walker.

14 | Wanderlust April 2017

 Get more with the
free Wanderlust Xtra
app
Download and use with the magazine today

The Wanderlust Xtra app brings Wanderlust travel magazine to life.

Simply scan the Xtra icons found throughout the magazine to reveal
bonus features and content.

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For detailed instructions on

Download your FREE app now! how to use the app visit
www.WanderlustXtra.co.uk

Use your Wanderlust Xtra app when you see this logo Xtra
Wanderlust May 2016 | 15
360 Need to Know
World Food
EAT
THIS...
6
Spice up your life with
Latin American chillies
O
ur love affair with chilli peppers
knows no bounds. These days,
its a key ingredient in countless
world cuisines that travellers
will find placed in front of them, from the
fiery stews of West Africa to the red-hot
curries of India. But its origins lie in neither.
Central and South America lays true claim
to this humble capsicum, tracing its use back
to the Mayan, Incan and Aztec civilisations.
Back then, chillies were used as a meat
preserve. But today, this plant (aji) has
become the cornerstone of Latin American
cooking. Whether it is spicing upa bland
Andean diet of spuds and corn with yellow
amarillo peppers, dotting a fishy ceviche in
Lima or firing Venezuelas guacamole-like
guasacaca, typically served alongside tender
16 | Wanderlust April 2017
MOLE POBLANO
DE GUAJOLOTE
Serves 4
4 large slices of raw turkey
4 dried pasilla chillies
4 dried New Mexican chillies
(preferably Sandia or Chimay)
1 can chipotle chillies in
adobo sauce
1 medium onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 tbsp sesame seeds
75g toasted almonds, chopped
corn tortilla, torn into pieces
50g raisins
tsp each of ground cloves,
cinnamon and coriander
3 tbsp lard
480ml turkey broth
28g bitter chocolate
Black pepper and salt, to taste
METHOD:
1. Brown the meat in a heavy
pan for ten minutes on each
side, then remove. Place in
abaking dish and roast in the
top tip
If you cant find identical
oven at 160C for 50 minutes.
Put aside and keep the warm.
chillies to those used in 2. Toast the pasilla and New
therecipe (right), substitute Mexican chillies in a heavy pan
for chillies of a similar (having first destemmed and
heat (in this case:
deseeded them) until they puff
hot!).
slightly. Turn often to keep from
burning. Cover with hot water
and steep for ten minutes to
soften. Drain and discard water.
3. Put chillies, tomatoes, onion,
garlic, almonds, tortilla, raisins,
herbs and spices, and half the
grilled meat, visitors to the New World are sesame seeds into ablender
near-guaranteed to pick up a little heat. and pure, adding some broth
But some say the true culinary origins of tokeep the sauce smooth.
chillies lie further north, in Mexico, where 4. Melt the lard in a large
their use has been documented as far back as saucepan and saut the chilli
6000 BC. And according to Dave DeWitt, pure for ten minutes over
author of The Essential Chile Sauce Guide, one amedium-hot heat, stirring
dish here rises above all others: mole, deriving frequently (add rest of the
from the Aztec word molli (meaning mixture). broth). Reduce the heat, stir in
The term embraces a vast number of the chocolate and cook over a
sauces, said Dave, utilising every imaginable low heat for 30 minutes.
combination of meats, vegetables and spices. 5. Add meat to the sauce and
But what they all have in common is lots of heat through. Garnish with the
chillies, as in fiery national fave mole poblano sesame seeds and serve.
de guajolote (turkey in chocolate-chilli sauce;
seeright). So, if you want to know where the The Essential Chile Sauce
world got its spicy mojo from, cook up a batch Guide (Terra Nova Books, 12)
Dreamstime
and transport your palate to ancient Mexico. by Dave DeWitt. Out now.

WIN!
A trip to Nicaragua with
Journey Latin America
See Nicaraguas lava-formed lands and colonial grandeur
with the UKs no.1 Latin American travel experts
C
olonial cities. Volcanic
lands. Tropical island-
hopping. Nicaragua is
laden with travel treasures
to uncover, but Central
Americas largest country
boasts also the regions best-kept secret.
And there is no-one better than
Journey Latin America to help you unravel
this oft-bypassed land. Drawing on over 36
years experience in organising both group
tours and bespoke trips to Central and South
America, they have the insider know-how to
help you get under Nicaraguas cultured skin.
Now, theyre offering you and a friend the
chance to win a place on a bespoke nine-day
trip to Nicaragua, which neatly knits together
the countrys most fascinating offerings.
Volcanic trails
Most Nicaraguan journeys begin with a brief
stay in its capital, Managua. Earthquakes
have shorn it of historic architecture, so head
for its malecn (waterfront) and the volcanic
Chiltepe Peninsula Natural Reserve, with its
twin azure crater lakes, Apoyeque and Xilo.
A little further south, Granada oozes
photogenic buildings. Named after its
Spanish counterpart, its clutch of churches,
For more information, visit www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk or call 020 3131 2661
Competition
cobblestone lanes and pastel-shaded facades
mean theres a photo-op around every
corner. Its location on the banks of Lake
Nicaragua serves it well, too. Here, take a
boat trip around the 365 lava-hewn islets
formed from the spurts of Mombacho
a microcosm of Nicaraguas volcano-defined HOW TO WIN
land and spy rich birdlife (including Journey Latin America is offering you and
cormorants, parrots, herons) overhead. a friend the chance to each win a place on
a nine-day bespoke trip to Nicaragua,
comprised of flights and visits to Managua,
Colonial charms Granada, Ometepe Island, Len and a volcano
Formed by two volcanoes, Lake Nicaraguas ash boarding experience. To be in with
major island, Ometepe (pictured above) is a chance of winning, answer the following:
swathed in cloud forest and studded with
waterfalls and lagoons. When treading its
tropical wilds youll be joined by monkeys
Q: When were the colonial
cities of Granada and Len
both founded?
and the birds sunset chatterings, while (a) 1494 (b) 1524 (c) 1574
pre-Columbian petroglyphs offer insights
into the islands past. To enter and for full terms and conditions, go to wanderlust.
Finish your Nicaragua experience with co.uk/competitions or send your answer to the Wanderlust
office (address p2). The closing date is 19 April 2017.
a trip to colonial hub, Len, which blends State no offers if youd rather not be contacted by
Wanderlust or its sponsors.
religious grandeur with students buzz. One
of the countrys symbols, volcanic Cerro
Negro, looms nearby: enjoy a toboggan ride
skimming its ashy slopes. Just one more
adventure in Nicaragua, a crowd-free land of
culture, historic architecture and natural
scapes and Journey Latin America is best
placed to help you unlock its wild charms.
Wanderlust March 2015 | 17
360 Need to Know
7
Five Minutes With...
CERYS MATTHEWS
LOVES A LEGEND
Rock star, author, disc jockey and newly minted Visit Wales ambassador
Cerys Matthews explains the Year of Legend, what she loves best about
her home country and where in Wales you should be heading to next
Congratulations on being made a Visit
Wales ambassador ! You grew up in
Wales, toured the world and lived in
the USA how does Wales compare
with the rest of the planet?
Well thats the beauty of it. Sometimes it
takes leaving a place to realise what makes
that place unique. It gives you a really good
perspective on your own country and it
allows you to weigh everything up and
appreciate it all anew.
Do you keep Wales close to your heart
on your travels?
Its hard for me to separate my sense of
identity from the place I was brought up
in. It doesnt mean Im not interested in
other peoples cultural heritage. This
campaign, to remind us not only of the
legends of the past in Wales but also whats
going on now, is something Ive done for the
past 20 years going round the world,
touring. People ask where Im from because
of my accent. Believe it or not, people
outside of Wales still find it hard to place
Wales. So its great to be a part of this
Ive been doing it all my life anyway.
Do you find that when you go back into
Wales you can almost review it from a
travellers perspective?
Definitely whether walking up those
mountains or seeing Snowdonia, or just
driving up through those valleys . The
magnificence and magnitude of that
landscape; every time you turn it takes your
breath away. You also remember small things
about Wales as well: the accent, the sing-song
and the language. These are things I dont
hear day to day in London. Thats one of the
things David, our Patron Saint, said way back
in the 5th century. He said, do the small
things, so he predates the Queens Christmas
message by some six centuries!
18 | Wanderlust April 2017
Do you have a favourite place in Wales?
Its really hard to pick! But theres a song in
Wales called Ar Lan y Mr (By the seaside)
and its from Pembrokeshire. Its
where my family are from and
where I spent my summers. When
I sing that song, because its from
that region, theres a verse in it
that sings about a flat stone on
the seashore, on the rocky
beach. If the suns out and its
warmed up that big rock, you
can lie there listening to the
bird song and letting the sun
come through your eyelids.
That to me is as close to
heaven as you can get.
People ask where Im from
Whats coming up as part
of Wales Year of Legend?
because of my accent.
There are so many things Believe it or not, people outside
going on! Recently we
celebrated love in a of Wales still find it hard
uniquely Welsh style. We
have our own patron saint
to place Wales
of love, St Dwynwen. She
was a hermit on the tiny tidal
island of Llanddwyn up in
Anglesey its got sand dunes
and its just you, the sea and the
end of the world. We celebrate her
on St Dwynwens Day, 25 January.
Theres a load of festivals going on as
well so check the website! Theyve been
going on for centuries, I think we were some
of the earliest people to celebrate literature
and poetry competitions in the pub. Theres
my own festival, The Good Life Experience
(15-17 Sept), and the No. 6 Festival (7-10
Sept). Oh, and the food festival in
Abergavenny, too!
For more information about Wales Year
of Legend go to www.visitwales.com
 360 Need to Know

8 UK
Whats On

EVENTS
9
CHANNEL ISLANDS Read this...
HERITAGE FESTIVAL

Adventurers come in
Channel Islands, 8 Apr-10 May
www.visitguernsey.com
www.visitjersey.com
Various locations. Visit websites for

all sizes (and ages)

full details and tickets.

The Channel Islands Heritage Festival

returns for 2017, with lots of history-laden
walks, tours and exhibitions. In Jersey,
there are a huge range of events planned:
tours of its myth-shrouded caves, castle
This month sees the return of a modern-day action
open days and dinners showcasing its
cuisine. Guernseys line-up is similarly hero and says goodbye to a troublesome travel titan
packed, with exhibitions depicting its

horde of myths and legends, heritage
workshops and tours of its manor
houses and forts. The islands of Alderney,
Sark and Herm also have a number of
events planned.
EVEREST RESCUE
London, 28 Mar
www.rgs.org
Royal Geographical Society, 1 Kensington
Gore, SW7 2AR. From 6.45pm; tickets
from 20, with a percentage going to
ABF The Soldiers Charity. For tickets,
visit tinyurl.com/everestrescue
War veteran Les Binns recounts the
moments behind when he aborted his
own mission to summit Mount Everest only
500m from the top, to rescue a stricken
climber. Battling snowstorms, he helped
another sick climber on the descent too,
single-handedly leading them both to safety.
THE GLOBETROTTERS CLUB
London, 1 Apr
www.globetrotters.co.uk
The Church of Scotland, Crown Court,
A
packed shelf of big hitters and
bigger adventures this month.
Straddling both of those is Levison
Wood, whose Walking the Americas
(20, Hodder & Stoughton) successfully fleshes
out his Mexico-to-Colombia TV trek with
rich human detail and strong context.
Of course, explorers come in all shapes,
sizes and ages. The Frozen Frontier (19,
Bloomsbury) sees 73-year-old seafarer David
Scott Cowper sail through the Northwest
Passage accompanied by his sole crew, Jane
Maufe (69), the first woman to cross the
Passage and who documents their journey.
Martin Berthoud manages to make his life
in the Foreign Office sound like one big
adventure in Undiplomatic Episodes
(9, Troubadour). The inquisitive diplomat
covers a career spanning Outer Mongolia,
Iran, Finland, Oz and Trinidad & Tobago.
Diplomacy is also the name of the game for
Garrett Carr, whose The Rule of the Land
(14, Faber & Faber) sees him traipse and
canoe the increasingly topical borderland
between Northern Ireland and the Republic.
A sensitive study and history of a bloody
frontier and the people who inhabit it.
Thankfully, the late A A Gill was neither
diplomatic or sensitive. Collecting together
the last five years of Adrian Anthonys many
highlights, Lines In The Sand (20, Weidenfeld
& Nicolson) sees him wasp around the world
with passion, honesty and glorious, wickedly
funny words. Hes already much missed.

10 visiting
Covent Garden, WC2B 5EZ. Doors open The Big Debate
at 2.15pm. 6; 3 for members.
Call 020 7193 2586 to book. Has President Donald Trump put you off
Join two intrepid speakers this month as
they recount their epic adventures. Charlie
the United States of America?
Knight took a six-month sabbatical to tread The newly-elected President has certainly stirred things up with his
the USA from tail to top, weaving from the
Mexican border past mountains, deserts
controversial policies, but has he caused you to halt your visits to the USA?
and lava fields to Canada. Also on the bill is

Jacki Hill Murphy who, using local boats,
retraces the tragic 1769 journey of the first
women to navigate the Amazon River.
BRISTOL TRAVELLERS CLUB
London, 11 Apr
www.marcopolotravel.co.uk
YHA, 14 Narrow Quay, BS1 4QA. 3.50 with
a proportion of the entry fee donated to
WaterAid. From 7.10pm. Tickets available on
the door.
Alan Gilbert retells his intrepid travels to
Chile and Easter Island, while Lester
Durston remembers his adventures in
Gujarat, India.
YES
Ruth Thomas,
Wanderlust reader
Trumps policies are completely
against what I believe in and Ive been very
outspoken against him. In some ways it would
be interesting to see if I did get turned back at
the border. But Im not going to test this out as
I am hoping that in four years there will be
a change of regime and I dont want a black
mark against my name when that happens.
NO
Julia Hammond,
Wanderlust reader
Hell no! Hes a democratically
elected leader and boycotting the USA wont
make a bit of difference to him or the people
who elected him. If we went around boycotting
places because we didnt like what their leaders
were doing, there wouldnt be many places left
to visit. But I dont think Ill be discussing
politics while Im visiting there this spring.

Wanderlust April 2017 | 19

360 Need to Know
Instant Expert
KNOW
YOUR
FALKLAND
ISLANDS
11 April marks 35 years since war hit the Falklands, but go now and
youll find these windswept isles are a peaceful penguin haven
A
land of penguins, windswept
horizons and complex history,
theFalkland Islands (aka Islas
Malvinas) are best known for
their role in a tug of war between the UK
and Argentina, climaxing with the Falklands
War of 1982. And though 2 April marks 35
years since the guns first sounded, beginning
a series of anniversary events, travellers have
always found tranquillity in the 700-plus
islands: as a pitstop when venturing into
Antarctic waters; ashort break from the
South American mainland; or as a rugged
wildlife-watching opportunity.
What can I see there?
Its five native species of penguins (Magellanic,
king, rockhopper, gentoo and macaroni) are
arguably the top draw for visitors, but spying
20 | Wanderlust April 2017
male elephant seals tussling on the beaches
is a magnificent spectacle, as isthe Darwinian
sight of predatory orcas stalking the seals
newborn pups in summer (Dec-Feb). Time
your visit well and you can even glimpse sei
and other baleen whales in the seas during
migration (Feb-May).
Back on land, over 200 bird species fill the
skies, including albatrosses, cormorants and
petrels. But wildlife isnt the only draw here
particularly in Port Louis, which retains
remnants of its 18th-century French rule as
well as windblasted peaks ideal for hiking.
And the anniversary?
A number of services reflecting on the
Falklands War are planned, but details were
unconfirmed at the time of going to press.
However, Liberation Day (June 14), which
Summer loving
The Falklands are
one of the worlds
penguin capitals,
with as many as a
million birds nesting
here each summer
marks the conflicts end, will feature a day of
events in capital Stanley. Visitors can always
find out more at the Historic Dockyard
Museum there, as well as war sites in San
Carlos and Port Howard. Plus, try a battlefield
tour to get a direct insight into the conflict.
Anything else?
Dont stick to the big two islands (East and
West Falklands). Sea Lion Island teems with
its namesake mammals, Bleaker Island has
rockhopper colonies in abundance and
Pebble Island has... well, sheep, and lots of
them, but great walks, too. Yet arguably
itsSaunders Island that affords the most
intimate experience, as you hole up in an
isolated Portakabin, spying up to four species
of penguin while itinerant cormorants and
Dreamstime
albatrosses swoop overhead. Pure wild bliss.

Marvellous Peru
E
ver since Hiram Bingham stumbled across Machu
Picchu over 100 years ago, the citadel has become the
poster icon of Peru. But there is much more to the
country than its incredible Inca heritage in fact, two
thirds of the country is covered by a lush Amazon
swathe and one region of this verdant wilderness is particularly
deserving of your attention: Madre de Dios. A land of winding rivers,
wildlife-rich jungle and indigenous peoples, this bountiful rainforest
is off-the-grid Peru at its finest.
Advertising feature
Cradle of biodiversity
The UNESCO-listed Manu Biosphere Reserve is one of the Edens
of Madre de Dios and, arguably, all of South America. Spy giant
otters, jaguars and several species of monkeys (including red
howler, spider and capuchins) roaming its wilds, or caimans
prowling its lakes. But its Manus collpas (clay licks) that gift you
the best wildlife spotting. Vividly-feathered parrots, parakeets and
macaws flock to the lick at Blanquillo, while monkeys and tapirs
can also be seen slurping the sticky mud cliffs elsewhere.
Wildlife wonders
Manu isnt Madre de Dios only wildlife-dense destination
Tambopata National Reserve also drips with animals, playing host
to around 600 bird, over 1,200 butterfly and over 100 mammal
species. Tambopatas trio of oxbow lakes (Sandoval, Tres Chimbadas
and Valencia) are a bounty of life. Tropical trees fringe their
surrounds, while boat trips drift past giant otters, black caiman and
river turtles. This is a paradise for wildlife watchers, where
there are always new species to see and new routes to discover.
Human life is scarcer across the Amazon Basin, but some of the
local villages can be visited through organised tours. These trips
might also take you through perhaps the best way to appreciate
the reserve: from above, atop its 42m-high canopy tower,
admiring natures handiwork.
Of course, with the Inca capital of Cusco only a stones throw
away, you can easily add a little ancient culture to your trip too.
But with so much wildlife packed into its wild landscapes
and so few tourists Madre de Dios easily fulfils that ultimate
travellers wish: for adventure.
For more information,
visit www.peru.travel
 360 Need to Know
12
Be Inspired
TRAVEL
WITH TOP
TOUR OPS
A
great tour operator can make the difference to
any trip. Thankfully you, our ever-discerning
readers, know a good one when you book with
them, as proved each year in our Reader Travel Awards
(full results p97). So heres the 2017 roster, ranked in order
of your satisfaction, with a signature trip from each
1. China
Ride some new rails
Hurtle through Chinas lesser-seen south-
west on Bamboo Travels South China
Explorer trip, as a new train route takes
you from the vast gorges and old market
towns of Yunnan tothe villages and rice
terraces of Guizhou. Finish drifting along
the Li River amid towering karst peaks.
Who: Bamboo Travel (020 7720 9285;
bambootravel.co.uk)
When: Year round
How long: 17 nights
Picky
How much: From 3,495 (incl flights)
2. Indonesia
Traveller
Know when you want to travel
Island-hopping ancient sites
but dont know where? Got Sail an off-radar archipelago on
an activity you long to try
but not sure how? Try
Selective Asias Essential Nusa
Wanderlusts Trip Finder: Tenggara tour. From the ice-blue
mytripfinder.co.uk crater lakes of Flores, aphinisi boat
carries you to Komodo, home to its native
22 | Wanderlust April 2017
dragons, before pushing on to Sumba, an
island of old villages and megalithic tombs.
Who: Selective Asia (01273 670001;
selectiveasia.com)
When: Year round
How long: 13 days
How much: From 4,136 (excl flights)
3. Jordan
Combine classic sites with natural drama
See the fruits of Jordans conservation
push on Holiday Architects Jordans of Waterton Lakes NP; spy moose, elk and
Natural Beauty tour, spying the canyons
of Dana Nature Reserve and the verdant
hills of Aljoun Forest Reserve, as well as
big hitters like ancient Petra and Wadi Rum.
Who: Holiday Architects (01242 253073;
jordanholidayarchitects.com)
When: Selected dates from Mar-Nov 2017
How long: 13 days
How much: From 2,535 (incl flights)
4. Peru
Bring Incan history to life
Delve into Perus past on Llama Travels
Incas & Conquistadors of Peru tour. Devour
fine food in capital Lima before wandering
ancient Incan territory, heading down
from colonial Cusco into the Sacred Valley
and inching the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.
Who: Llama Travel (020 7263 3000;
llamatravel.com)
When: Selected dates from Mar-Nov 2017
How long: 14 days
How much: From 2,029 (incl flights)
5. Canada
Drive across widescreen vistas
Its just you, the road and Canadas wilds
on a Hidden Gems of the Rockies self-drive
with Audley Travel. See the liquid wonders
bears in Kootenay NP; and end in the lush
Banff NP, hiking to its bubbling Ink Pots
springs or kayaking its mirrored waters.
Who: Audley Travel (01993 838700;
audleytravel.com)
When: Jun-Sep
How long: 11 days
How much: From 1,995 (incl flights)
6. Iran
Explore Persian treasures
Leave your preconceptions behind on
Wild Frontiers Iran Unveiled 2017 tour.
See the country at its best, from the ruins
of Persepolis to the mosques of Esfahan,
accompanied by a dose of local hospitality.
Who: Wild Frontiers (020 8741 7390;
wildfrontierstravel.com)

2 3
5 6
8 9
When: 30 Apr; 14 & 26 May; 10 & 24 Sep;
8 & 22 Oct 2017
How long: 15 days
How much: From 3,595 (excl flights)
7. Chile
Get the complete picture
Squeeze in icy peaks, spurting geysers
and chic cities on Wexas Highlights of
Chile trip. Explore the city of Santiago
before zipping through Chiles diverse
wilds to soak up Atacama sands, El Tatios
spurting geysers and the mighty glaciers
of Torres del Paine NP. Epic.
Who: Wexas (020 7838 5950; wexas.com)
When: Year round
How long: 13 days
How much: From 4,725 (incl flights)
8. The Balkans
Hit the heights in the Dinaric Alps
Bag Eastern Europes best summits on
KEAdventure Travels High Peaks of the
Balkans. Trek and climb rises in Kosovo
(Gjeravica), Montenegro (Zla Kolata) and
Bamboo Travel; georgetheexplorer.com
Albania (Korab), then toast your feats with
aglass of raki in the latters capital, Tirana.
Who: KE Adventure Travel (01768
773966; keadventure.com)
When: 12 Aug & 9 Sep 2017
ANTARCTICA
& SOUTH GEORGIA
Small Ship Expeditions
4
7
10
How long: 8 days
How much: From 1,495 (incl flights)
9. Laos & Cambodia
Explore the Indochina duo
Get under the skin of Laos and Cambodia
on HF Holidays Indochina Revealed trip.
Lap up laid-back Luang Prabang and drift
the 4,000 riverine islands of Laos, then
cross into rural Cambodia for floating
villages, mountain treks and Angkor Wat.
Who: HF Holidays (0345 470 8558;
hfholidays.co.uk)
When: 18 Nov 2017
Small Groups Expert Guides
How long: 16 nights
How much: From 3,339 (incl flights) Daily Excursions Wildlife Viewing
Nature Walks Zodiac Cruises Sea Kayaking
10. Iceland
Rev round Road 1
ORDER YOUR FREE
Catch lava fields, Midnight Sun and hot 2017.18 EXPEDITION GUIDE
springs on Discover the Worlds Iceland
Ring Road Special. Tick off Golden Circle
sights before going off-grid to spy whales
020 7978 4534
in Akureyri, calving glaciers in Jkulsrln info@auroraexpeditions.co.uk
and fishing villages in the eastern fjords.
www.auroraexpeditions.co.uk
Who: Discover the World (01737 214250;
discover-the-world.co.uk)
When: 16 & 30 Jun; 4 & 18 Aug 2017
How long: 10 nights
How much: From 2,026 (incl flights)
Alaska Highway

24 | Wanderlust April 2017

 Alaska Highway

BLAZING
A TRAIL
In 1942 a new road ploughed through the remotest
parts of Canadas Yukon to connect Alaska with the
lower 48 states. 75 years on, we hit the road...
WORDS PHOEBE SMITH PHOTOGRAPHS NEIL S PRICE

Lone Range Rover

The Alaska Highway
cuts through Kluane
National Park in
Canadas Yukon

Wanderlust April 2017 | 25

Alaska Highway

A pointed welcome
A bull elk lurks amid the
fall foliage near Haines
Junction, Yukon

W
hen I first came here there were no But such distances are considered easy by todays standards.
footpaths, walking guide Brett Liddles Before the 1940s, it was a different story altogether. Then, to travel
words oozed out of his throat like thick from what would become Haines Junction to the capital of the Yukon
treacle, his voice filling the wooden cabin would have taken several days ride on horseback through thick forest.
with tones as rough as the tree trunks And the only ones making that journey would have likely been members
that held the room together. Back then, it of the First Nations, Canadas indigenous people. But that all changed
was a brand new national park, andpart in 1942, as the realities of the Second World War hit North America.
of myjob was to designate the trails. He wore the stoic expression of a The Japanese had bombed Pearl Harbour and Germany were
man who had told his story many times, but still seemed to linger over marching on Russia (then allies of the US), so it was decided that
every word, as though laying the aroad wasurgently needed to
groundwork for something more.
Here in Kluane National Park, Nothing is easy for the connect Alaska (via the Yukon
andBritish Columbia) with the
deep in Canadas remote Yukon
Territory and some 35 years on
residents of the Yukon. I asked lower 48states. Primarily it would
be amilitary supply route one
from Bretts trailblazing days of
the 1970s, there are still just 15
Brett where he did his weekly that could both helpsupport
theRussian war effort across the
marked footpaths. Given that this
park stretches an area spanning
shop. The answer: 187km Bering Strait anddefend against
the threat of Japan, who would
more than 22,000 sq km larger away in Whitehorse make inroads on Alaskas Aleutian
than Wales it shows just how Islands later that year. So,in
difficult establishing those early routes had been. But then, nothing under eight months whole regiments of army personnel (around
comes easy to the residents of the Yukon, the north-westernmost of 11,000 men in total) paved their way across the permafrost, cutting
all Canadas provinces and territories. I asked Brett, who lives 30 down trees, establishing camps and boosting the populations of tiny
minutes drive from a hamlet called Haines Junction, where he did one-horse towns fromahandful of souls to bustling metropolises
his weekly shop. The answer: 187km away in Whitehorse. within hours changing things for those who lived here forever.

26 | Wanderlust April 2017

Big background
Views from the road in
Kluane National Park
Alaska Highway

Striking gold
(clockwise from this)
The view from Soliders
Summit in Kluane,
where the Alaska
Highway was officially
opened in 1942; a nod to
the Klondike gold rush in
Skagway, Alaska; old
military vehicles rust in
the forest near Whitehorse;
what remains of the pier
at the ghost town of
Dyea; the quirky high
street in Skagway

Depressions in the ground marked where homesteads had once

Many people didnt even know that the Alaskan Highway was
coming, and they certainly didnt have a choice about it, explained
Janna Swales, president of the Alaskan Highway Heritage Society,
Yukon, who Imet, rather fittingly, at the Transportation Museum in
Whitehorse my start point. Ive heard stories about people who
wereout checking traplines and then suddenly Caterpillar trucks
appeared, bursting through the trees. It must have been quite
shocking, and it changed their way of life, literally, overnight.
Looking around the Yukon capital today, I spied paintings and
statues of can-can girls and gold prospectors declaring it a frontier
town, despite the presence of North American chains such as Pizza
Hut and Wal-Mart, and no shortage of people. Its hard to believe this
was just another outpost before the highway arrived. Back then, it
wasnt even a capital. Only in 1953, after the road came, did it gain
that title, highlighting the impact the route had on the area.
When I first heard about the highway its little-known outside of
Yukon or Alaska I was gripped by fascination and wanted to drive
the whole thing. But due to logistics (namely you cant rent acar in
Canada and drop it off in Alaska), I abandoned my plan to start at
the roads true beginning in Dawson Creek, British Columbia.
Instead, from Whitehorse Itook a coach, then a train south across
the border topick up a car, intending to join up with the highway
later. It was there I encountered another piece of historical
trailblazing, recalling a time when this once remote region first
opened up to the world: the gold rush.
A winters tale
Sitting on the tip of a finger of water known as the Chilkoot Inlet,
Skagway feels every bit a tourist town. Today, its cluster of
wooden shacks and Red Onion brothel (now a local attraction,
with girls offering tours rather than services) draw visitors
aplenty. Back in 1896, however, it pulled a different crowd.
Gold was found in the river, and over the next couple of years
its population soared to over10,000 (nowadays its just 1,000),
made up of those hunting precious metals and others trying
to sell them services and goods.

28 | Wanderlust April 2017


stood a wooden frontage the only piece of this puzzle left standing
At the museum in town, a sepia photograph showed a queue of
ill-prepared souls battling their way up a snow-plastered hill pass as
they embarked ontheir search for gold. I yearned to see the real thing
for myself. So, on choosing my vehicle, before heading to Whitehorse
to pick up the highway, I made a short detour to the ghost town of
Dyea. It was here that the goldminers perilous route had begun.
Now a peaceful, almost eerily silent, place by the waters edge,
allthat remained of the old Dyea pier that Id seen in pictures were
the legs that supported it, now green-covered stumps. Like the town,
the original prospectors route (the Chilkoot Trail) into the hills became
redundant soon after 1898, abandoned in favour of Skagway where
the water was deeper and could accommodate bigger boats. Ihit the
trail and headed into the spongy forest, its floor coated in a thick quilt
of moss. Depressions in the ground marked where storerooms and
homesteads had once stood, while further on, beneath the trees, an
old wooden frontage was the only piece of this puzzle left standing.
The drive back to Whitehorse was one of the prettiest I encountered,
weaving through trees coloured golden by the fall and shimmering
Alaska Highway
emerald lakes. Finally, I reached the turning onto the Alaska Highway,
now a ribbon of black asphalt that was easy to follow and easy to drive.
I headed north-west, spotting a herd of elk as I bound for Haines
Junction and the gateway to Kluane National Park. En route I crossed
the Takhini Salt Flats, passing tundra pockmarked by circular
depressions, and spotted a turn-off for the Old Alaska Highway
aleftover loop from the original route before it was improved in 1943.
It was a real adventure road at that time, explained Whitehorse
local Doug Bell, who I had spoken to while planning my route, and
who had driven the road in 1946 while working as a radio operator.
People say you needed a permit, but we never had one or were
never asked. There were lots more twists and turns, ups and downs,
and what we called washboards, when the rocks just chewed
the tyres right up. We got flats all the time and had to stop every
20 or 30 miles, meaning it took a long time to drive it.
Nowadays, the 2,288km (1,422 mile) highway is a lot smoother and
quicker, meaning there are fewer places to stop especiallywhen, as I
did, you drive it in early September. At Haines Junction, I met walking
Wanderlust April 2017 | 29
 Alaska Highway
guide Brett, who as a former park ranger hadbeen responsible
for establishing trails in the national park andwas just getting ready to
close for the season and travel to warmer climes. WhenIasked if I
might see bears, he shook his head sceptically. No bears and no aurora,
they need to stop puttingthem on the brochures its hard to see both.
As I drove into the tiny town that evening, I began to think he
might be right, especially as the only migration I seemed to be
witnessing was human all heading south for the impending
winter.However, as the night fell and the stars came out, I began
tomake out a green smear on the inky sky. It wasnt a good
showingbut it was the northern lights, and that gave me hope.
Miles to go before I sleep
The following morning, as I left for Kluane National Park, a black bear
strolled casually across the road in front of the car and Iscreeched to
a halt to watch its big brown bottom bound into the forest, a wide
green plastered to my face. Further in I spied moose, while trumpeter
swans swam on the little lakes that glowed amber and purple in the
Over the hills
The glaciers and secret
snowy world that sits
behind the Alaska
Highway in Kluane
National Park
30 | Wanderlust April 2017
early morning light. At Kluane Lake I swapped the car for a plane. But
it was no ordinary plane this one came equipped with a pair of skis.
People dont appreciate whats right near the highway when they
drive, said pilot Tom Bradley, as we soared above the summits of
thenow tiny-looking peaks that, just minutes earlier, had dwarfed me
as I drove on the road beneath. Behind these, and revealing themselves
slowly as we climbed, lay a teeth-like range of cloud-scratching
pinnacles, all capped with snow and surrounded by tongues of
crevasse-ridden glacier ice. The little plane bumped and rumbled as we
cut close to the knife-edge ridges, then somehow, magically, wewere
granted a hole in the clouds to enable Tom to skilfully land atthe foot
of Mount Logan Canadas highest peak at 5,959m.
Were standing on the largest non-polar ice field in the world,
saidTom as we jumped out of the plane. I felt the wind cut through
my layers of clothing with a biting nip. Theres 700m of ice beneath
our feet youve got enough water here to fill every lake and river in
Canada, and all of North Americas highest mountains with the
exception of Mount McKinley are right around us.
 I looked about me, a true 360-degree panorama of rock and ice, my cabin in what would be my last stop in Canada, just outside Beaver
and felt privileged to be standing in this secret snowy world, Creek. Here, owner Amanda Harris showed me around the grounds
beyondthe asphalt of the highway. where she stored an impressive collection of old military vehicles
Back on firm ground and in the thatwere leftbehind to rust
car, a brief stop allowed some dall
sheep to cross the road and for me
It was so cold, he said, that when the roadwas completed.
This lodge was built in 1942,
to make the short ascent to the
top of Soldiers Summit. This
bythe time he took his during the construction of the
highway by the US army. It was
wasone of the trails originally
established by Brett, and it was
breakfast from the messtent the officers quarters, and the
troops would have been in the
also where the Alaska Highway to his seat, the egg was Quonset huts outside in very
was officially opened in 1942.
Inoticed more and more already frozen tothe plate cold conditions. She gestured to
what looked like war bunkers.
abandoned homesteads, motels Everything found on the
and gas stations as I ploughed on. I passed through Burwash Landing Canadian side is in two parts because the agreement was that
where a giant gold pan marked the entrance to the town (another everything had to be destroyed and unusable, Amanda continued
place that swelled with people during the highways construction but aswe wandered by an old medical jeep emblazoned with the army
is now down to an average population of just 95) and finally reached insignia. I met a man who helped build the road; he used to go

Wanderlust April 2017 | 31

Alaska Highway
Highway highlights
(clockwise from this)
First Nations totem
outside Whitehorse; the
top of Soliders Summit;
the Catholic church in
Haines Junction made
from an old army hut;
main street Talkeetna;
a dall sheep; meeting
locals in Beaver Creek;
(left) morning light in
Kluane National Park
Found in the foliage
(above) An impromptu
black bear sighting from
the Alaska Highway at
Haines Junction;
morning mist in Kluane
National Park; (right)
taking the Alaska
Railroad back from
Fairbanks to Anchorage

I passed the International Boundary and into the USA. Here the
landscape opened up into wide valleys with russet-coloured peaks
 ahead and mark the trees with blazes to show the route, she
explained. It was so cold (the route was built between March and
November), he said that by the time he took his breakfast from the
messtent to his seat, the egg was frozen to the plate.
Despite the milder autumn air, I shivered. Even walking the woods
close to the road felt wild. It was hard to imagine what it would have
been like cutting this route in winter with no one to follow.
Journeys end
I gained an hour the next morning as I passed the
International Boundary and crossed into the USA.
Here the landscape opened up into wide valleys
with russet-coloured peaks either side. Shingle
rivers trickled under bridges, most of which dated
back to the time of the highways construction.
Reaching the small town of Tok (pronounced
toke as in Tokyo Camp so called by officers
building the road here in the 1940s), I was greeted
by a Main Street offering an array of husky sled rides,
hunting shops and a wooden case with a stuffed moose
inside. While in my cabin that night, Iheard the dogs of alocal
outfitters howling at the moon it may have all the trappings of a
well-served tourist spot but this place still felt deliciously remote.
My final day on the highway took me through more dramatic
landscapes and deposited me, with very little fanfare, into the town of
Alaska Highway
Delta Junction, where a simple post informs drivers that theyve
survived the Alaska Highway at this: Mile 1,422. The gift shop was
already closed for the season, so I didnt linger and instead headed
onto Fairbanks, where I could drop off the car and catch the
AlaskaRailroad down to Anchorage for my flight home.
The total train journey takes 12 hours, so I decided to break it in
Talkeetna, a tiny but hip townwhere the mayor for the past
15 years has been Stubbs the Cat, a rather-pleased
looking feline. Thetime it took to get there passed
quickly as the tracks cleaved their way through
mountain passes, over gorges and through the
tundra of Denali NP, where moose and bear
watch on as you clatter through.
Finally, I found myself wandering the pretty
streets of the town, where the wilderness of the
woods never sits far from the pavements.
I stumbled into a clearing where I discovered
a memorial to climbers lost on Alaskas Mount
McKinley (aka Denali). It seemed afitting end to my
journey on the trail of Alaska and the Yukons trailblazers. It
was a reminder of the spirit required to come to the furthest reaches
of North America and attempt anything, whether climbing
mountains, building a road or cutting a footpath. Those whocame
and those who lived here were true pioneers. And thanks to the
Alaska Highway, for a few short days, I got to be one too.
Wanderlust April 2017 | 35
 ATLANTIC
CANADA
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NEWFOUNDL AND & L ABRADOR NOVA SCOTIA

13-day tailor-made self-drive

from 2,275 per person incl. flights
Call a Wexas Canada specialist on
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 Alaska Highway Footnotes
$2.66/2.10 per gallon in Alaska and Discovery Yukon Lodging, Beaver
around C$1.20/74p per litre in the Yukon. Creek (Yukon; discoveryyukon.com) is
VITAL THE TRIP Accommodation
asite that offers stays in log cabins, motel

STATISTICS The author travelled with Audley Travel

Official start: Dawson Creek,
British Columbia, Canada
End of the road: Delta Junction, Alaska, USA
Road length: 1,422 miles / 2,288km (approx)
States/Provinces: British Columbia
(Canada), Yukon (Canada), Alaska (USA)
Visas: UK nationals require an ESTA to
enter the USA ($14/11; valid for two years).
Apply at least 72 hours before your trip
athttps://esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta. Canada
entry requires the similar eTA, which costs
C$7 (4) and is valid for five years. Apply at
least 72hours before travel it can take
longer at cic.gc.ca/english/visit/visas.asp
Money: US dollar (USD), currently $1.25
to the UK; Canadian dollar (CAN),
currently C$1.65 to the UK.
(01993 838700; audleytravel.com).
Atwo-week self-drive trip along the Alaska
Highway costs from 3,450 per person
and includes an outgoing flight from the
UK to the Yukon and a return flight from
Anchorage, as well as airport taxes, 12
nights mid-range hotel accommodation
on a room-only basis, an intermediate-
grade hire car on an all-inclusive basis,
travel on the Yukon and White Pass railroad
from Whitehorse to Skagway and travel
on the Alaska Railroad from Fairbanks to
Talkeetna and on to Anchorage.
Kluane NP. Great breakfasts and friendly
Getting there
The author flew with Icelandair
(icelandair.co.uk) into Edmonton, Alberta
(Canada; 11 hours) and returned from
There are many options along the
Alaska Highway, from RV sites to hotels. For
this trip the author stayed at the following:
Westmark Inn, Skagway (Alaska;
westmarkhotels.com) is centrally located
and just across the road from a car hire
company. Doubles from $170pn (135).
Coast High Country Inn, Whitehorse
(Yukon; coasthotels.com) is within walking
distance of Main Street and trails along the
Yukon River. Doubles from C$128pn (79).
The Raven Hotel, Haines Junction
(Yukon; ravenhotelyukon.ca) offers motel-
style accommodation at the gateway to
staff. Doubles from C$152pn (93).
suites and Yukon Wall Tents from C$30
(18) for a tent and C$140 (86) for cabins.
Cleft of the Rock B&B, Tok (Alaska;
cleftoftherock.net) has cosy cabins set in
wild forests. Doubles from $150pn (120).
Pikes Waterfront Lodge, Fairbanks
(Alaska; pikeslodge.com) offers free pick-
up from the airport and free drop-off at the
station for those travelling the Alaskan
Railroad. Doubles from $233pn (187).
Swiss Alaksa Inn, Talkeetna (Alaska;
swissalaska.com) has rooms ten minutes
walk from town. Doubles from $110pn (88).
Copper Whale Inn, Anchorage
(copperwhale.com) is the best hotel to
stay at in the city lovely staff, great
location. Doubles from $99 (80).

When to go
Anchorage, Alaska (USA; 16.5 hours, with
a stopover inIceland). All passengers are
HIGHWAY HIGHLIGHTS
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
eligible to stopover in Reykjavik for up to
seven days; if done on the outbound 1 Cycling the Tony Knowles
Coastal Trail, Alaska
foot of Mount Logan Canadas highest
peak. Prices from C$325pp (200).

Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

Best for a road trip expect open roads,
longer days and warmer weather. Parks
and trails get busy, so book hotels ahead.
Shoulder season places close/open
for the season. Good for fewer crowds,
bargains and achance to see the aurora.
Winter cold! Businesses close, but
you can snowmobile and hunt the lights.
journey, you can even save around 50
on APD (Air Passenger Duty) tax if you
stay over 24 hours. Prices from around
700pp, including taxes and fees.
Getting around
To get to Whitehorse, the author
flew with Air North (flyairnorth.com) from
Edmonton. Flights take around 1.5 hours
and depart daily (except Tuesday and
A 17km trail (anchoragecoastaltrail.com)
that can be accessed from Anchorage.
Rent abike from Lifetime Adventure
3 Hike to Soliders Summit, Yukon
The official opening point for the
Alaska Highway and an easy stroll within
(lifetimeadventure.net; outside Copper Kluane NP complete with epic views.
Whale Inn see above) from $15 (12)
for two hours ($40/32 per day). 4 Check out the ghost town
of Dyea, Alaska
2 Flightseeing in Kluane
National Park, Yukon
Its not till you get up high that you can
A half-hour drive around Taiya Inlet from
Skagway takes you to this once bustling
gold-rush town and the trailhead of the
fully take in the vast snow-plastered famous Chilkoot Trail (53km).

Health & safety

No specific jabs required. The big
risk is hitting a moose, so drive cautiously.
When hiking, be bear aware: make noise,
store food properly and carry bear spray.
Further reading
& information
The Milepost (Milepost, 2016) mile-by-
mile highway guide updated each year
www.explore-canada.co.uk a good
website for planning your Canada trip
www.travelyukon.com official site
www.VisitTheUSA.com an invaluable
resource for researching USA travel
www.travelalaska.com good local info
More online
Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/175
for links to more content:
ARCHIVE ARTICLES
Close Enough to Cuddle issue 141
In the Realm of the Ice Bear issue 149
4 Ways to Explore Alaskas Great
Outdoors online exclusive
PLANNING GUIDES
Alaska Travel Guide & Canada
Travel Guide
Map Scott Jessop
Saturday), costing around C$300pp
(185) one-way. Logistically, driving the
whole Alaska Highway in a hire car is near
mountains of the region. Icefield
Discovery (icefielddiscovery.com) offer
flights with the chance to land on the
5 Alaskan Railroad, Alaska
Take the train between Fairbanks and
Anchorage, watching for wildlife and fall
impossible due to the start and end points icefield on plane skis and stand at the colours on this fantastic train ride.
being in different countries (cross-border
one-way hire isnt allowed in this case).
Thebest way is to drive a prime section
ofit byflying to Whitehorse (just as
Wanderlust did) and taking the seasonal
(MaySep) train to Skagway in the USA
(wpyr.com; prices from $129/103pp one-
way), picking up a car, then driving back to
Canada and finishing in Fairbanks USAand
take the Alaska Railroads daily Denali
Star route to Anchorage (MaySep),
pit-stopping at Denali NP or Talkeetna en
route (alaskarailroad.com; total time 12
hours, prices from $191/154pp).
The author hired a standard SUV from
Avis (avis.co.uk) in Skagway. Expect to
pay 900 for a seven-day hire, which
includes a one-way drop-off charge,
unlimited mileage, all taxes and charges.
Cost of travel
Due to the areas remoteness, the
cost of food and drink is not asmuch of
a bargain as it is elsewhere intheUSA
and Canada. A main meal at arestaurant 3
costs upwards of C$15 (9) in Whitehorse
and around C$4 (2.50) for a coffee. In
Alaska, expect similar prices but in US$.
Petrol is much cheaper in the US than in

the UK. You will usually pay around

Wanderlust April 2017 | 37

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 SOUTH
EAST
T R I P
ASIA P L A N N E R
Fuming mountains, iconic temples, wild forests, electric
cities, classic beaches Here's how to get the most out
of ultra-diverse, otherworldly South-East Asia
WORDS ALEX ROBINSON
Bright in Bangkok
The Wat Arun
Temple appears
illuminated at
sunset, Thailand
South-East Trip Planner

B
ali to Bangkok. It didnt look that far on the map.
But I had no idea, and what a blessing that turned Tout
IBET
BHUTAN
NEPAL
to be. Arriving unprepared, with just a few hundredMt East China
dollars and a ticket home in my pocket, was the best
Everest CHINA Sea
INDIA
preparation for a long but unforgettable journeyBANGLA-
on
DESH TAIWAN
bumping buses, clanky boats, jeeps and trains
I N D I
through a region of astonishing diversity of towering temples topped A MYANMAR Hong Kong
(BURMA) Hanoi (Special Admin.
with Buddhas and Blade Runner cities, of smoking Mordor landscapes, LAOS Region, China)
idyllic palm tree-shaded beaches and fish-teeming reefs. Bay
of
On my first night in Ubud I joined an established travellers trail Bengal Yangon Hoi An
across Java, Sumatra and Malaysia into the Thai islands. I made THAILAND
countless friends along the way. There was Naomy on a jungle hike in Bangkok
search of orangutans in Bukit Lawang. And Glen laughing under the CAMBODIA
Andaman PHILIP
stars in a beach bungalow in Ko Pha Ngan. And Rashida, the concierge Sea VIETNAM
in a Singapore five-star who allowed me to take my camera up to the Andaman Is. Saigon
(India) Sulu
presidential suite for a magical view of the space-age skyline.
SRI South China Sea
I still remember the smells frangipani blossom and sea salt LANKA on a Sea
breeze-warmed Malaysian beach; lemongrass wafting from street-side Brunei
Kuala
food stalls in Chiang Mai; the wintergreen and cajeput oil a masseuse Lumpur
used to soothe my muscles after a hike to see the sun rise behind the MALAYSIA
smoking caldera of Mount Bromo. I remember the taste of tamarind Singapore
Sulawesi
juice after a hot cycle ride through the backstreets of Bangkok; the sight INDIAN INDONESIA
of the ferry chugging past the volcano at Krakatau; the saffron-clad OCEAN
monks holding out their begging bowls in the morning markets Java
Sea
But with South-East Asia, there always seems more to discover Flores
another temple, another city, another route which is perhaps BALI Sea
why I cant keep away. And with bucket-shop-cheap regional air
fares its never been easier to join the travellers trail for as long as
a month or as little as a week. Timor
Sea

AUS

Sweet ride
Motorbike rider
carrying cut sugar
cane with Agung
volcano behind, Bali

42 | Wanderlust April 2017

 South-East Asia Trip Planner

Top tip
Stay ahead of the crowds
in Angkor by visiting
Smiling Buddha temples at
Bayon (pictured) immediately
after sunrise when everyone
else is at the main site
Angkor Wat itself.

TIBET
BHUTAN
NEPAL Mt
Everest CHINA
INDIA
BANGLA-
DESH
INDIA Mandalay
Hanoi
Hong K
MYANMAR (Special A
(BURMA) Halong Region, C
LAOS

B
Bay
Vietnam & Cambodia egin in Hanoi whose streets of Chiang
Mai

Ruined cities, wooden shop houses cluster around Hue

Yangon Hoi An
two gorgeous lakes. The forest- THAILAND

jungles and covered pinnacle islands and turquoise seas
of Halong Bay are an easy two-day excursion
Bangkok
CAMBODIA
Siem

beaches but book an overnight cruise in a converted Reap

Andaman Koh Rong
VIETNAM
junk to get beyond the crowds (through one Sea Sihanoukville Ho Chi
of Hanois myriad agencies). Then catch the Minh City
(Saigon)
DURATION: 1 WEEK nighttrain south to Hue whose SRI forbidden
Best for: World Heritage sites, walled Purple City was the homeLANKA of
local life, desert islands Vietnamese emperors. tours. Take one at sunset
George for
Towna romantic
After a day, hire a driver (tourfromhue.com) atmosphere.Kuala
Then fly to from
Lumpur M Anearby
LAYSIA
ROUTE: Hanoi Halong Bay Hue Hoi An for a road journey past sandy coves and Da Nang to Siem Reap in Cambodia Singapore
Alamy; Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Alex Robinson

Siem Reap Sihanoukville Koh Rong shimmering lagoons and over the heady Hai
WHY DO IT? With lush landscapes, romantic Van Pass (the caf at the top has wonderful
ruins and empty beaches, these neighbouring views) to Hoi An. This is Vietnams Venice
countries are as easy to navigate as Thailand where sigh-inducing bridges span canals
but cheaper and less touristy. lined with terracotta-roofed houses and
boatmen in conical hats offer languid river
(90 mins, visas on arrival, $30 cash only)
for the jungle-tangled Angkor ruins. INDONESIA
Wind up with a few days on unspoilt
Koh Rong easily reached by a twice- Java
daily ferry from Sihanoukville Sea
(a 60 min flight from Siem Reap). 

INDIAN
Wanderlust April 2017 | 43
 Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam,
Malaysia & Indonesia

The whistle
stop trip
DURATION: 21 DAYS
Best for: The highlights
ROUTE: Bangkok Siem Reap Ho Chi Minh
City Kuala Lumpur Yogyakarta Bali
WHY DO IT? The best of South-East Asia at
a bargain price? Yes, its possible with an
ASEAN Airpass (airasia.com; from 130 plus
taxes) covering all major South-East Asian cities

W
ith sizzling street food, twinkling
glass-mosaic temples and sky-bar
sunset city views, Bangkok is
South-East Asias most exhilarating capital.
Stay a few nights, then jet to the jungle-
covered temples and smiling Buddha faces of
Cambodias Angkor temples. Youll need two

TIBET East China

BHUTAN
NEPAL Sea
Mt
Everest C H I N A
INDIA
BANGLA-
DESH TAIWAN
PACIFI
Land to sand
INDIA
(from right to left) Hmong
Mandalay
Hanoi
Hong Kong OCEAN
MYANMAR (Special Admin.
locals gather the tobacco Region, China)
harvest; Buddha statue in (BURMA) Luang Halong
Bay
Prabang
Borobudur Temple; long Chiang
Mai
tail boat on a Thai beach Nong Hue
Yangon Khai Hoi An
THAILAND
Khao Yai LAOS
National
Park
Eastern Thailand & Laos Bangkok
CAMBODIA
PHILIPPINES
 Over the hills Andaman
Sea
VIETNAM
Ho Chi
Minh City
(Saigon) Sulu
DURATION: 7 DAYS
SRI Sea M
Best for: Hill tribe treks,
LANKA
rushing rivers and tigers George Town Celebes
From hereKualaits an easy over-the-bridge
Lumpur
MALAYSIA Sea
ROUTE: Bangkok Khao Yai National Park crossing into Vientiane, the Laos capital.
Singapore
Nong Khai Vientiane Luang Prabang Rent a bike (1.50p/day) and cycle the citys
Sulawesi
WHY DO IT? This route takes you through temples and Mekong riverbanks Ibefore NDONESIA
the forests of Eastern Thailand, into the catching a plane to Luang Prabang (45 mins).
woodland and mountains of ancient Laos This is one of Asias most enchanting small Java
and one of Asias loveliest cities sitting on cities, set in a steep valley cut by the Sea
the banks of the mighty Mekong River. chocolate-brown Mekong, glittering with
temples and French teak mansions and
did you
Flores
Sea
know?
F
rom Bangkok, its a three-hour taxi bustling with hill-tribe markets. Arafura
drive (48) to the rainforests I NofDKhao
IAN Take four days to hike in the hills (to Borobudur is the worlds Sea
largest Buddhist temple,
Yai National Park the bestOplace C E in
A N Hmong villages and mountain waterfalls); Timor
made up of an astonishing
the region to see gibbons, hornbills and (if boat up the Mekong to caves filled with
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Dreamstime

60,000 cubicSea
metres of
youre lucky) tigers and wild elephants. Stay Buddha statues; and climb the dragon piled rock and carved
five-minutes from the park entrance at Baan staircase on Mount Phousi at sunset for stone
Saranya bungalows (baansaranya.com), then views of temple roofs and rippling mountain AUSTRALIA
bus north to Nong Khai on the border (7 hrs). ridges silhouetted against an orange sun.

44 | Wanderlust April 2017

 NEPAL Sea
CHINA
Mt
Everest

INDIA
BANGLA- South-East
TAIWAN
Asia Trip Planner
DESH PACIFIC
INDIA Mandalay
Hanoi OCEAN
days. Fly on to Ho Chi Minh City whereMYANMAR
(BURMA) LAOS Halong
Asia mingles with colonial France. Enjoy Bay

thick iced coffees and baguettes on tree-lined

boulevards around Vietnams Notre-Dame Yangon Mariana
THAILAND Islands
cathedral; whizz through the streets on
a motorbike tour with the irrepressible, Bangkok
CAMBODIA
all-female Xotours (xotours.vn); and take side Siem
VIETNAM
PHILIPPINES
trips to the island-cut Mekong Delta andAndaman Reap
Sea
haunting Cu Chi tunnels the underground Ho Chi
Minh City
system where the Viet Cong would spend (Saigon) Sulu
SRI the Vietnam conflict. Sea
days at a time during MICRON
LANKA
Fly two hours south for a day in Kuala
Lumpur (to admire the views from the Kuala Celebes
Petronas Towers and market-browse) and
Lumpur MALAYSIA Sea
T hailand
another 2 hrs 30 mins on to Indonesias
The classic
Singapore

Yogyakarta. This old royal capital is the best INDONESIA Sulawesi

base for temple day trips: to Borobudur
a Buddha-heaped artificial hill ringed
Java
Thai trail
with steaming volcanoes; and Prambanan Sea
whose stupas are covered in astonishingly- Borobudur DURATION: 10 DAYS PAPU
Flores NEW GU
detailed carvings of Hindu gods.
Ubud
Best
Sea for: Easy travel, beach
Prambanan
Finish with five laid-back beach days in Yogyakarta comfort and restful railways
Arafura
Balis Crystal Bay with
I Nexcursions
D I A N to the Sea
green paddy fields and craft shops of Ubud. ROUTE: Bangkok Sukhothai Chiang Mai
OCEAN Timor
Ko Pha Ngan Koh Tao
WHY Sea
DO IT? With creamy beaches,
tantalising temples and sumptuous food,
Thailand isA South-East
U S T RAsiaA Lin Iminiature.
A
And its so easy to get around, it makes
the perfect introduction to the region.

T
his route reveals the real Thailand. So
begin with a plunge into old Bangkok
on a stroll through the marigold
market on the banks of the Chao Phraya
River. Visit Chinatown and the solid-gold
Buddha in Wat Traimit before catching the
night train to Sukhothai Thailands
ancient capital (7hrs to Phitsanulok station,
40 minutes by taxi). Spend a day wandering
the bird-filled Historical Park past
crumbling chedis (stupas) and giant Buddhas.
Then its back on the train to Chiang Mai
(7hrs). Three days is enough for Thailands
northern capital with an excursion up Doi
TIBET Inthanon and a trek to hill-tribe villages
BHUTAN or a spot of whitewater rafting. Then youll
NEPAL Mt
Everest be ready for Ko Pha Ngan (forCbackpacker
HINA
beach bungalows, 1hr 45 mins flight to
INDIA
BANGLA- Koh Samui and 30mins boat) or Koh Tao
DESH
(for reef snorkelling or diving, 75 mins
IN DIA Mandalay
boat ride from Ko Pha Ngan). 
Hanoi
Hong
MYANMAR (Special
(BURMA) Halong Region,
LAOS Bay
Chiang
Mai
Hue
Yangon Sukhothai Hoi An
THAILAND
Bangkok
CAMBODIA
Siem
Reap
Andaman Koh VIETNAM
Sea Tao
Ho Chi
Ko Minh City
Pha (Saigon)
Ngan
SRI
LANKA
George Town
Wanderlust April 2017 | 45
Kuala Lumpur MALAYSIA
 Myanmar
The road to

Mandalay
DURATION: 1O DAYS
Best for: South-East Asia
as it used to be
ROUTE: Yangon Mawlamyine
Yangon (again) Bagan Monywa
Mandalay Inle Lake
WHY DO IT? Closed to the world until
2011 Burma/ Myanmar feels lost in time
and unspoilt by outside influences
46 | Wanderlust April 2017
A
llow a day for the old capital
Yangon; theres only one site of real
interest the Shwedagon Pagoda,
but its genuinely spectacular. Come at
dawn to see local people and maroon-robed
monks make offerings at the myriad
shrines. Then brave the bumpy 10 hr
nighttrain to Mawlamyine Rudyard
Kiplings favourite Asian city whose
temples and colonial houses clamber over
hills next to an expansive river delta.
Youll have to transit through Yangon again
to reach Bagan (80 mins flight or a rough 8 hr
bus ride). Spend two days wandering this vast
plain, speckled with stupas before catching
 South-East Asia Trip Planner
TIBET East China
BHUTAN
NEPAL Sea
Mt
the bus to Monywa (4 hrs). Youll needEverest
a day
INDIA
and a private taxi (around 50) to see the MYANMAR CHINA
art-filled caves, giant Buddha statues and (BURMA) TAIWAN
PAC
temples around the town. Monywa
INDIA Mandalay Hong Kong OC
Then take the road to Mandalay (3 hrs by Bagan Hanoi
(Special Admin.
Inle Region, China)
bus), sitting on the left for the best views of Lake LAOS Halong
Bay
Chiang
the Irrawaddy River. After two days Mai
Yangon
exploring the palaces, teak-wood bridges Hue
Mawlamyine Hoi An
and temples, take the bus south to tranquil
THAILAND
Inle lake (8 hrs) nestled in a bowl of craggy Bangkok
mountains and dotted with floating villages. CAMBODIA
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Dreamstime

Andaman
Siem
Reap PHILIPPINES
Crossing over Sea
The blazing sun VIETNAM Ho Chi
sets over U Bein Minh City
(Saigon) Sulu
Bridge, Amarapura SRI Sea
LANKA
George Town Celebes
Kuala Lumpur MALAYSIA Sea
Singapore

Sulawesi
INDONESIA
Java
Sea
Flores
Sea
Arafura
INDIAN Sea

OCEAN Timor
Sea

AUSTRALIA

did you
know?
Mawlamyine is the
setting for Kiplings poem
Mandalay and that
George Orwell worked
as a policeman in the city
in the 1920s.

Wanderlust April 2017 | 47

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 South-East Asia Trip Planner
Top tip
In Banaue walk Cultured cultivation
the trail to the mountain The iconic rice
village of Batad set in terraces of Banaue
a plunging valley of
sculpted rice
terraces.

A
Ta i w a n & T h e P h i l i p p i n e s TIBET llow two days to visit high-tech
BHUTAN East China
 The NEPALMt
Everest
Taipei - the half-kilometre-high
Taipei 101 tower and the imperial
INDIA CHINA
Sea
Taipei

undiscovered Chinese
BANGLA-
Museum
DESH
treasures at the National Palace
before catching the train for two days Taroko
Gorge
Hualien
TAIWAN

countries INDIA
in Hualien (2 hrs 30 mins) the gateway to the
Mandalay
spectacular Taroko Gorge. Hike andHanoi
MYANMAR
bike this
Hong Kong
(Special Admin.
Region, China)
3km-deep marble
(BURMA)canyon, whichLAOScuts intoHalong
the
Bay
DURATION: 2 WEEKS islands central mountains,
Chiangthen move on to
Mai
Best for: Coral reefs Manila (via Taipei, 2 hrs 15 mins flight). Hue Banaue
and canyons Yangon
An afternoons enoughTHAILAND
to see the colonial-
Hoi An
Manila
tinged centre, before boarding a bus into the
ROUTE: Taipei Hualien Taroko Gorge
Bangkok
Cordilleras region driving past the smoking PHILIPPINES
Taipei (again) Manila Banaue Palawan crater of Pinatubo to Banaue (9 hrs).Reap
Siem
Allow
Andaman Ko Rong El Nido
WHY DO IT? Charmed with vibrant local three days to explore
Sea the rice terraces, then
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Dreamstime

Sihanoukville
cultures, mountains terraced with rice fly to the beach in El Nido, Palawan (I hour
Sulu
fields, plunging canyons and coral islands,
SRI from Manila) where coral-filled bays Sea
somehow these neighbouring countries LANKA fringed with pearl-white sands are broken
remain quiet and unspoilt. by wind-sculpted rocks and craggy cliffs. 
George Town Celebes
Kuala Lumpur
MALAYSIA Sea
Wanderlust April 2017 | 49
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 INDIA Mandalay
Hanoi
Hong Kong OCEAN
MYANMAR (Special Admin.
(BURMA) Halong Region, China)
LAOS
Chiang
Mai
Bay
South-East Asia Trip Planner
Hue
Yangon Hoi An Maria
THAILAND Islan
Thailand, Malaysia & Singapore Bangkok
Fly two hours south to George Town

 Sultry cities CAMBODIA

Siem
Reap
VIETNAM
on the island of Penang, Malaysia. Spend
a couple of hours PHILIPPINES
wandering streets lined
with dragon-covered Chinese houses
DURATION: 10 DAYS Ho Chi
Minh City and British-colonial mansions and see
Sulu
Best for: FineSRI
food, fabulous (Saigon)
sunset
Sea from Penang Hill.
urban views LANKA Then catch the morning train to Kuala
M ICR
George
Lumpur (5 hrs via Butterworth). While in
ROUTE: Bangkok Penang Kuala Lumpur Town Kuala
Lumpur town,Celebes
take the elevator up the 421m-high
Singapore MALAYSIA Sea
Kuala Lumpur (KL) Tower for views, sample
Singapore
WHY DO IT? Old meets new in South-East Malay street food around Jalan Alor and
Asias mega cities skyscrapers loom over INDONESIA visitSulawesi
the Hindu mountain caves at Batu.
teak houses, ancient mosques sit next to Then hop south to Singapore (70 mins
sleek monorails and temple-dwelling Java
flight) for a splurge. Sip Singapore Slings
orange-robed monks watch YouTube on the the public boat up the Chao Phraya
Sea River in the Raffles Hotel, sample the Japanese P
latest Samsung Galaxy past the mosaic-covered Wat Arun temple food at Michelin-starred Shinji
Flores NEW
to the sprawling Grand Palace complex. Sea
(shinjibykanesaka.com). Walk the

G
ive Bangkok three days but avoid the Eat on the street or at Gaggan (eatatgaggan. 50m-high Supertrees and sky walks Arafura
of
backpacker-packedI N Banglamphu
DIAN com) voted Asias best restaurant in the Gardens by the Bay, and be in the Sea Lantern
area. Sukhumvit O C EisAbetter-
Road N 2015 San Pellegrino awards. And shop at Bar (fullertonhotels.com) on Collyer Quay
Timor
located, better-connected (via the Chatuchak weekend market the at dusk toSea see the city burnished gold by the
Airport rail, Skytrain and metro biggest arts-and-crafts dying sun and the lights of the $5.5 billion
network) and better value. Ride smorgasbord in South-East Asia. Marina Bay complex glisten in the water. 
AUSTRALIA
Top tip
Dont miss the tangy In Bloom
Long Table Margarita, The illuminations
served with a spectacular at Garden by the
skyline view at Long Table Bay in Singapore
(longtablebangkok.com)


Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Dreamstime

Wanderlust April 2017 | 51

 South-East Trip Planner

Hot views
Bromo volcano at
sunrise, Tengger
Semeru NP, Indonesia

did you
know?
Orangutans have recently been
shown to have developed their
own language made-up
of tongue-clicks and
lip-squeaks.

TIBET East China

n d o n e s i a BHUTAN
M a l a y s i a & I NEPAL Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park Sea
(in Probolinggo, 2hrsCbus H Iride
N Asouth of
Mt

 On the wild side Everest

INDIA
BANGLA-
Surabaya). Wake at dawn for the best
views of an avenue of fuming TAIWAN
DURATION: 21 DAYS DESH PACIFIC
volcanoes under pink-hued sky.
Best for: IVolcanoes,
NDIA Mandalay
forests Fly to Lombok (1hr from Surabaya)
Hanoi OCEAN
and orangutans MYANMAR
for more spectacular, smoking
(BURMA) LAOS Halong mountains
Bay
and a blissful few days on the white-sand
ROUTE: Kuala Lumpur Cameron Highlands beaches and turtle-spotting opportunities
Ma
Penang Medan Bukit Lawang of the GiliTHAILAND
Yangon Islands off Lomboks north- Isla
Surabaya Mount Bromo Lombok western coast (reached by fast boat
Bangkok
Gili Islands from Senggigi village 1hr by taxi from
CAMBODIA
WHY DO IT? A plane hop through Malaysias Lombok airport). Siam
Andaman Reap VIETNAM
PHILIPPINES
central highlands and Indonesias Sumatra Sea
Ho Chi
and Java islands offers the pick of South-East Minh City
(Saigon) Sulu
Asias spectacular landscapes, with pristine Sea
SRI MICR
rainforests and fumingLANKA
volcanoes.

F
Tanah Rata Celebes
rom Kuala Lumpur, catch the bus Medan
Sea
to Tanah Rata in the Cameron
Kuala
Lumpur MALAYSIA
Singapore
Highlands (4hrs) for two days
trekking in primeval tree-fern and pitcher- INDONESIA Sulawesi
plant-filled rainforest. Then catch the bus
to Penang (3 hrs) for a days street and
Java
hillside wandering and a ferry to Medan Sea
in Indonesia; whose forests (reachable Probolinggo
BALI Gili Flores NE
from Bukit Lawang, a 5o minute bus from Islands Sea
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Dreamstime

Penang) are the best place outside Bromo Tengger Semeru Arafura
National Park LOMBOK
INDIAN
fire-ravaged Borneo to see orangutans. Sea
After two days fly south toOSurabaya
C E A N on
Java (3hrs) the gateway to the impressive
Borobudur Timor
Sea

52 | Wanderlust April 2017

AUSTRALIA
Bear Watching in
MACEDONIA
Head east to the beautiful Balkans to spot some of Europes last brown bears in the wild
Think bear watching and you think black
bears in Canada. Or grizzly bears eagerly
awaiting the salmon run by the rivers of
Yellowstone National Park in North America
perhaps even sun bears in the jungles of
Borneo, but very few travellers first thoughts
leap to Macedonia.
With balmy weather, mountainous
landscapes pock-marked with deep blue
lakes and as many old towns as there are
archaeological sites, Macedonia slots in
effortlessly with its Balkan neighbours. But
theres one thing Macedonia offers that
visitors wont find in Montenegro or Albania
the opportunity to see some of Europes last
wild brown bears.
The Eurasian brown bear was once found all
across Europe but now the species range is
limited to Scandinavia, Russia and the eastern
regions of the continent including Macedonia.
Staying in wilderness lodges with Regent
Holidays, maximise your bear-spotting This tour seamlessly blends
chances while contributing to conservation exhilarating wildlife
projects as you set out into Mavrovo experiences with the
National Park and Pelister National Park. perfect introduction to
Hike with local wildlife guides to learn about Macedonias history and
wild behaviour and feeding habits, head off- modern-day culture. After
road with park rangers in an all-terrain 4x4 searching for wild brown
bears and spending a night in a wilderness hide
vehicle and help to replant pine trees in
(optional!), spend a few days exploring the pretty
a prehistoric forest.
lake-side town of Ohrid and the Ancient Roman
Of course, theres more than bears to be archaeological sites at Bitola.
spotted as you navigate thick forests and
Ellie Marr
follow scat or print trails with your wilderness
Balkans Travel Specialist
guides; Macedonias countryside is still
roamed by wild lynx, deer, wolf and boar.
Sharp-eyed travellers who cast their eyes www.regentholidays.co.uk
to the skies can bag a sighting of eagles or 020 7666 1242
falcons resting on thermal vents as they hunt.
Regent Holidays 7-day Bear Watching
in Macedonia tour costs from 1,765pp
Swimming with
 Australia

Australias west coast is now one of

only four places in theworld you can
swim with humpback whales. We
head toExmouth to see how tours are
helping both the land and the seas

WORDS EMMA THOMSON

T
he sky above had turned a steely
grey atypical winters day on the Kimberley, Australia. Until recently, interacting with the humpies
docks ofElizabeth Quay, Perth. But
my attention was firmly on Aboriginal
Nyungar elder Walter McGuire,
sporting awiry silvering beard and
achest as broad as any rugby player.
After daubing our hands and cheeks
withochre, he gently wafted the
firepit, poking shards of balga tree
bark into the embers and sending
upthickscented tendrils of smoke.
Kaya noonooka yaarkin niche ngullaka boodja (Welcome to my
home country), he beamed. Walk in a circle through the smoke;
thiswill bless you and keep you safe on your onward journey. We
would be needing it, for we were on our way to meet some local giants.
Until now, Western Australias Ningaloo Reef has been synonymous
with whale sharks mammoth spotted fish that swim near the waters
surface, hoovering up plankton and krill. But humpback whales also
cruise this UNESCO-listed coastline, migrating north from the food-
56 | Wanderlust April 2017
rich Southern Ocean to the warm breeding grounds off the coast of
incurred aA$10,000 fine, but as of August last year that is no longer the
case. Now, travellers to Western Australia have the chance to share the
waves with them, an experience previously only found at three other
locations worldwide: Tonga, the Dominican Republic and Queensland.
Personally, Id always envied these aquatic transients, able to slip
between two worlds with the flick of a tail breaching the waves one
minute, then diving to a realm of giant squid and mystery the next.
Itsno wonder that whales have long captured our imaginations.
Even the Nyungar have a Dreamtime (creation myth) story about
these cetaceans. The legend goes that the karda (goannas) and the
nyingarn (echidnas) who were responsible for all spirits that passed
on saw the whales and asked them for their help. We need to get all
the little spirit children back to the land, otherwise they will be trapped
under the sea, they pleaded. The whales replied: We will make sure
theres a spirit child in every calf born and return them when they die.
That is why, the story tells us, when a whale is at the end of its life, it
willoften strand itself on the sand, bringing a spirit child back to land.
Now it was time to finally meet these leviathans on their own turf.

Searching for humpies
Just sign your life away here, grinned our skipper, Murray, shades
glued to his face, then well get going! He handed me aclipboard
loaded with disclaimer forms, grabbed the helm of Wave Rider
andpowered us toward the Humpback Highway that traces the
continental shelf. Outside the reef, theres not much distance
between us and Madagascar, he quipped, almost salivating at the
lureof openwater. His company was one of only eleven operators
tobe giventrial licences for humpback-snorkelling trips by the
Department of Parks and Wildlife (DPaW) in 2016. This year, the
Previous spread SoulandSeaPhotography/Jana McGeachy This spread Alamy
theyexpectasimilar number, as the trial enters its second term.
Also on board was marine biologist Natalie (Nat) Yeates. As well as
having a couple of freediving championships to her name, she had
swum with plenty of megafauna before, but reserved her awefor
thehumpbacks, her eyes often widening as she described them.
Whale sharks are cool, but theyre predictable, she reasoned, as
Inoticed the image of one tattooed on her foot. But humpies can fight,
breach, and change direction. Theexperience ismore interactive.
But it wouldnt be a free-for-all. To explain the rules, Nat and
underwater photographer Jana put on a puppet show, employing
Australia
ahumpback whale soft toy and G-men figurines to demonstrate
thestrict interaction rules the DPaW have implemented to protect
the whales. Theyre much more stringent than those put in place
forencounters withwhale sharks, which are classified as fish.
Five swimmers (not ten) are allowed in the water. We must keep
adistance of 30 metres (instead of three metres), and we are never
allowed to swim with mothers and calves, explained Nat. Also, the
skipper can only make three attempts to get swimmers in the sea with
the same pod. After that, well go and find another group. We put the
wellbeing of the creature above everything else. The humpbacks
interact with us on their own terms; its different here than in
otherdestinations around the world, she finished, proudly.
In Tonga, for instance, the whales tend to be more stationary, which
allows for closer interactions. But operators there will often breakthe
rules by slapping the waters surface to attract whales or wedge the
boat between cows and calves, so that they will have to come closer
tothevessel in an attempt to reconnect with each other.
At 10.30am, the spotter plane went up a black dot against
acrystal blue sky. Jacob, the pilot, is only 19, marvelled Nat.
Hes acomplete planebuff. He got his license before he could
In with the big fish
The rules for swimming
with whale sharks are
much laxer than those
for humpbacks, who
you cant swim within
30m of; (left) spotter
planes alert the
boats to groups
ofhumpies nearby
Wanderlust April 2017 | 57
Australia
even drive. We call the plane Ninda
its the aboriginal word for cloud. The tours have come
Jacobs voice soon crackled over the
radio, reporting that all the pods in our
at the right time for
vicinity had calves. The mothers use the
reef as aprotective wall to shield their
the region. Revenue
infants from predatory pods of orcas,
which cruise the coast looking for
from oil and gas
astruggling snack. So we headed north mining is in decline,
instead, passing a shimmer of beach on
our right and a calf trying to impress its and humpback
mum with a few fin slaps, its tiny flipper
pathetically patting at the waters surface. snorkelling could
Eventually we got the nod that a male was
nearby. So, suited and booted in our
boost local coffers
snorkels and fins, we waited for the call.
Group one: go, go, go! We slipped off the back ofthe boat into
thedeep water and dutifully wiggled after our guide, Julian, like
araftof obedient ducklings. Stay in line with me dont spread out, oil and gas mining industry is in decline, and humpback snorkelling
otherwise youll make it feel trapped. And no freediving, swimming
after the whale, or selfie sticks, he had warned us beforehand.
I pushed my head below the waves and zooplankton dusted my
mask. And then I heard something remarkable: the crooning song of
amale, its deep bass notes making my heart hum. But we couldnt see
him, so we lifted our heads and looked enquiringly at Julian. He must
be resting on a sandbank some way off, he shrugged. We tried to
follow the music, but the whale swam away before we could approach.
Back on board, I noticed another vessel following us at a distance.
Whos that? I asked, jerking my head inthe direction of our aft.
Itsan independent research vessel with biologists on board.
58 | Wanderlust April 2017
Theymonitor the behaviour of the
whales breath rate, spy hopping (raising
a head out of the water), tail slapping
todetermine whether or not the tourists
arehaving a detrimental effect on their
migration. At the end of the trial period,
theyll modify the behaviour of the boats
if necessary, explained Nat.
Suddenly, a huge female, as large as
abus, corkscrewed through thewaters
surface some 30 metres fromus and
flopped onto her back, sending up an
almighty fountain of water.The group
collectively gasped, but we were all
longing to get back in the water.
In need of good juju
The tours have come at the right time for the area. Revenue from the
could boost local coffers significantly, Nat explained. At first, I was
against it, but if the whales dont want to interact, they wont. They
can out-manoeuvre us like that, she said, snapping her fingers.
Local operators are happy to ride the wave of development, too. Once,
Exmouth was known only for its Second World War military base and
gaggle of caravans; now it has a slow-drip coffee van, a new marina
SoulandSeaPhotography: Jana McGeachy
surrounded by swanky homes, a luxury hotel and the Ningaloo Centre
an interpretative space being built on Murat Road that will house
research, education and tourism facilities when it opens in April.
What the visitors and local community get out of the tourism
isclear, but I wondered about the creatures themselves. On our
Life on the reef
Manta rays, cetaceans,
tropical fish and turtles
all dot the Ningaloo
reef; (left) spotting
abreaching humpback
from the water
Saving the whales
Part of the money from
each swimming tour
goes to help Ningaloo
Marine Park protect
the reef, which has seen
arise in the number of
visiting humpbacks
thanks to stricter
whaling regulations

firstnight in Exmouth, I met Dr Peter Barnes, the Marine Program
Coordinator for DPaW, and asked him how the whales benefitted.
Well, a recent survey has seen humpback numbers recover
from10,000 to 30,000 thanks to stricter whaling regulations,
he explained. And a percentage of each swimmers fee goes to
help marine park management and education. As yet, theres
no citizen science programme where visitors upload their
whale photos onto a website to help us ID them but itll be
encouraged in the future.
Back on the boat, the prospect of a spot of citizen science seemed
light years away. All thoughout the day, the radio crackled with
reports of just-missed sightings while the crew brimmed with
ever-grander tales of encounters Yesterday we saw an orca pod
attack and eat a tiger shark! But as the light faded, so did our chances.
All you can do is ask for some good humpback juju,
shrugged Nat. I took a swig of Ningaloo Nectar (a local water)
and stared out at the sea. A bottlenose dolphin hydroplaning
on the waves alongside her pup lifted my spirits, but all my
hopes were pinned on tomorrow.
A fleeting meeting
Back on land and en route to Sal Salis, our beachside camp in the
CapeRange National Park, we passed an echidna crossing the road,
itsprotruding snout stained black at the tip like a pencil dipped in ink.
Allaround was fascinating wildlife, except where I wanted it to be.
Among the dunes, our luxury tents lay camouflaged against a mix of
spinifex mounds and scrub populated with blushing galahs and shy
wallaroos. As the sea air rustled the lounge tent, we dined on Moreton
Bay bugs (lobster), red emperor fish and local wine. Just 2km behind
the camp lay Mandu Mandu Gorge, an ancient riverbed that you can
trace on foot and is populated by black-footed rock wallabies and
fossils. But my thoughts were still back out at sea with the whales.
The next morning, I was woken by the faltering song of a shrike.
Iunzipped my tent and saw splashes on the blue horizon. Humpbacks

60 | Wanderlust April 2017

 Australia

I pointed my face downwards and there was

one, cruising thirty metres below, his white
barnacled belly half turned towards me

were breaching. I watched from the beach and hurriedly munched
mymuesli. It was a good sign. We drove back to the dock and, this
time, boarded the Ningaloo Discovery catamaran. Deckhand Rachel
handed us our equipment. The tabs on your snorkel mouthpiece have
no nutritional value, so please dont bite them too hard, she teased.
Outside the reef, the water morphed from cerulean to indigo, as
theground dropped away to depths of a thousand metres or more.
Something moved on the surface. A scalloped hammerhead, Rachel
casually confirmed. The species list out here is as long as a fishing
line:turtles, dugongs, tiger sharks, minke and Brydes whales and
countless dolphins, including a newly classified species only
recentlyidentified the Australian humpback dolphin. It was then
SoulandSeaPhotography: Jana McGeachy
dead ahead were five huge bachelors, their rounded hulks barrelling
straight towards us. I scrambled to pull on my mask and pointed my
face downwards once again. There was one, cruising 30 metres
below, his white barnacled belly half turned towards me.
I strained to peer through a soup of zooplankton and saw what Id
been yearning for: a Mona-Lisa-esque half smile and one giant wise
eye trained on me. And then it was gone. I had never been happier to
be ignored by a male, and as we flopped back onto the deck, John,
atraveller from the USA, ripped off his mask, exhilaration splashed
across his face. Time seemed to slow that was such a rush! he cried.
As the engines spluttered into life, I thought how much sweeter
the experience had been for knowing that our fees had contributed

that a dark shadow glided nearby. A manta ray! someone squealed.
We threw on our gear, plopped into the ocean and ogled the winged
creature up close, but there were still no suitable whale pods.
By late afternoon we were beginning to lose hope when, suddenly,
the call went up: Whales behind us! Group one, go! As we jumped,
to theprotection of these creatures,and how it had been worth the
wait tosee a humpback on its own terms. The town of Exmouth has
alotriding on the success of its trial humpback tours. But despite the
pressure, its pleasing to see the whales wellbeing is still the most
important part. The future here looks bright, blue and barnacled.

Wanderlust April 2017 | 61

 Ningaloo
Svalbard Footnotes
Coast Footnotes
VITAL
STATISTICS
Main town: Exmouth
Population: 2,207 (swells to 6,000 in the
summer months)
Language: English
Time: GMT+8
International dialling code: +61
Visas: Required by UK nationals.
British citizens can apply for a free
eVisitor visa from the Department of
Immigration (www.immi.gov.au).
Money: Australian dollar (A$),
currently around A$1.67 to the UK
When to go
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec
Off season no humpback sightings.
Overlap period a good chance to
see humpbacks and whale sharks; the
latter of these start appearing in March.
Migration season peak humpback-
spotting period in Exmouth and Coral Bay,
with the migration then in full swing.
THE TRIP EXMOUTH HIGHLIGHTS
The author travelled with Austravel
(www.austravel.com, 0800 988 4834)
onaseven-night trip to Perth and the
Coral Coast, which costs from 2,479 per
person.This includes a three-night stay
at the Alex Hotel in Perth, two nights at
the Sal Salis Wilderness Tent and two
nights at the Mantarays Ningaloo Beach
Resort in Exmouth, with a days tour
swimming with humpback whales.
International (Emirates) and internal
(Qantas) flights are also included.
Getting there
There are currently no direct
flights between the UK and Perth, but
several airlines fly there from Manchester,
London, Birmingham and Edinburgh
viaaconnection. The author flew with
Emirates (emirates.com, 0344 800
2777), which has daily flights to Perth
from London Gatwick via Dubai, with
flight times from 20 hours; return fares
from around 592 (economy) and 2,720
(business class). For internal connections,
1 Cape Range National Park
Take a 3km ramble through Mandu
Mandu Gorge an ancient riverbed
discover coral formations, rays and reef
sharks. A short boat ride away are the
Muiron Islands, two deserted specks of
Qantas (qantas.com, 0800 964 432) fly embedded with fossils and Aboriginal land offering first-rate drift diving, coral
daily from Perth to Exmouth (Learmonth) habitations dating back 30,000 years. bommies (surf breaks) and caves.

Health & safety

from A$298 (183) return.

Temperatures regularly exceed
40C, so wear high-factor sunblock at all
times and a hat. Sharks are present at
Ningaloo but rarely bother snorkellers.
Getting around
Exmouth is small and easily
walkable. Most accommodation options
can arrange transfers to activities.
2 Turquoise Bay
Billed as one of the top 20 beaches
inthe world and one of Australias best
these squeaky clean sands offer superb
sunbathing and snorkelling. Shuttle bus
services depart regularly from Exmouth.
4 Yardie Creek
Explore the creeks red canyon walls
(pictured above) with Yardie Creek Boat
Tours (yardiecreekboattours.com.au),
spotting black-footed rock wallabies
aswell as turtles and shovelnose rays.

Further reading
& information
West Coast Australia (Lonely Planet, 2015)
handy guide with a good overview
www.westernaustralia.com official
tourist board website
www.exmouth.wa.gov.au official site
for the Shire of Exmouth
www.gocultural.com.au tours and
experiences with an Aborigine guide
More online
Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/175
for links to more content
ARCHIVE ARTICLES
Whalewatching in Western Australia
Issue 157
Photography Adventures in Western
Otherwise, car hire companies such as
Avis, Budget and Europcar have offices
at the airport and Exmouth Taxis
3 Snorkelling and diving
Unlike the Great Barrier Reef,
Ningaloois close to the beach and far
5 Ningaloo Kayak Trail
Trace the new Ningaloo KayakTrail,
which will eventually stretch the entire
(+61 409 994 933) can be contacted. more pristine. Stretching for 260km, its lengthof the reef. Exmouth Adventure Co
Australias longest fringing coastal reef (exmouthadventureco.com.au) allow you
Accommodation and a major breeding ground for three to paddle part of the route by day, while
Options in Exmouth are limited, species of turtle. Strap on a mask and camping on the beach overnight.
with a number of caravan parks along the
coast. The author stayed in the following:
Exmouths Mantarays Ningaloo Beach Muiron
Resort (mantaraysningalooresort.com.au) Indian Ocean Islands
is the best luxury option in town and one
of few upmarket hotels. Doubles from
A$260pn (156), excluding breakfast.
For a spot of glamping outside town,
try Sal Salis (salsalis.com.au), which is
situated on the beach inside Cape Range
NP. A multi-night package costs from
A$1,400pppn (862) and includes all
meals, daily guided wilderness activities,
national park fees and a full days Exmouth
h
swimming with humpback whales.
1
Food and drink
In Exmouth, try Whalers
Cape Range
(whalersrestaurant.com.au) atthe Exmouth Sal Salis National Park
Escape Resort, which reopens in March. 2
Mantarays brasserie (inside Mantarays Turquoise
Ningaloo Beach Resort; see above) is Bay 3
Mandu Mandu
good for Moreton Bay bugs (a type of Gorge
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Dreamstime

Australia online exclusive lobster) and posh surf n turf. Meanwhile,

PLANNING GUIDES locals rave about the breakfasts at See
Western Australia travel guide Salt (seesalt.com.au) try the banana Perth Broome 0 15km

pikelets or the smoked salmon roesti.

62 | Wanderlust April 2017

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Win flights to Barcelona and accommodation in
a charming rural hotel in Catalonia for two

Simply visit catalonia.wanderlust.co.uk

T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E
WET&WILD
Its not only humpbacks you can swim with from pigs to penguins,
theres a world of unusual marine life you can encounter in the water
Pigs
WHERE? Big Major Cay (Pig Island), Bahamas
Yes pigs. Legend has it these lucky porkers
were dumped on this uninhabited island by
sailors who treated it as a handy larder and
Sardines
WHERE? Moalboal, Philippines
Unlike the famous summer sardine run off
South Africas eastern coast, the sardines of
Moalboal can be seen year-round by visitors to
the south-west side of Cebu Island in the
central Philippines. This is one of natures
marvels, as the fish travel in vast, contorting
clouds, blotting out the waters less than 30m
off Panagsama beach. And thanks to the
excellent sea clarity, snorkelling gets fine views
while freediving as little as 5m can put you in
the heart of the cloud.
SEE THEM: Year-round, though May to October
is typhoon season. Alternatively, a new, huge
sardine family has been discovered off the
coast of Tangnan, on nearby Panglao Island.
64 | Wanderlust April 2017
then forgotten. Today, a family of 20 now
survives towards the north of the Bahamas
central Exuma strip of islands. There they
snuffle in the surf and flop into the ocean at the
sound of an outboard motor, having learned
long ago that passing boats usually throw them
WHERE? Anavilhanas National Park, Brazil
the odd titbit (which is now banned) at which
point you can go the whole hog and join them.
SEE THEM: Year-round. These local celebs arent
going anywhere, with day trips from hub Nassau
or closer Staniel Cay to Big Major Cay. Hurricane
season (JuneNovember) is best avoided, though.
Pink river dolphins
Lying 75km upstream from Manaus, along the
Rio Negro, the Anavilhanas river archipelago is
home to the Amazons endangered pink river
dolphins, a creature that local fishermen still
sadly hunt for use as bait. To get close to them
in the wild, youll need to visit the flutuante dos
botos (dolphin float) at Novo Airo, a
government conservation project that allows
visitors to bob (but not swim) within touching
distance of these amazing mammals.
SEE THEM: Year-round. But try to tie any visit in
with dry season (May-December), when travel is
easier and more of the islands are revealed.

Basking sharks
WHERE? Isle of Man, UK
One of the largest fish on Earth (second only to the
whale shark), the basking shark is a regular visitor
to UK waters, with the Manx coast slap-bang on
its migration route. Thanks to their size and
languid pace slowly sieving the water for animal
plankton theyre difficult to lose and gentle to
boot, making them amiable swimming partners
and affording an incredible experience.
SEE THEM: Between mid-May and August, the
Isle of Man becomes a hotspot for basking sharks,
with chartered boat trips from Port Erin and Port
St Mary offering swimming opportunities. Summer
is also good for spotting grey and common seals
hauling out on nearby Kitterland island.
African penguins
WHERE? Cape Town, South Africa
False Bays Boulders Beach is famed for
its colonies of African penguins a bird
now sadly endangered after numbers fell
from 1.5 million in the early part of the
20th century to some 22,000 breeding
pairs today. No tours are required here,
just head to the beach youll hear their
distinctive braying long before you see
them and take a (chilly) dip. They often
swim quite close, but dont touch their
beaks are unforgiving.
SEE THEM: The colony lives year-round in
the bay, but spend much of September
Alamy; Dreamstime; Getty
and October feeding out at sea, lessening
chances of a watery encounter.
Wild swims
Beluga whales
WHERE? Churchill, Canada
Every summer, when the ice of Hudson Bay breaks up, around 50,000
beluga whales arrive off the coast of remote Churchill to breed and feed in
the bay. At which point, you can don a drysuit and dive into the chilly
waters to join these friendly, often curious cetaceans, who frequently
follow Zodiacs as they make their way out.
SEE THEM: Tours run from late July to August before the bay freezes over
again and the whales risk getting trapped. Trips often combine whale
swimming with buggy tours of the tundra, to spot the native polar bears that
Churchill is famous for.
Marine iguanas
WHERE? Galpagos Islands, Ecuador
The Galpagos teems with unique marine life,
from endemic sea lions to the only penguins
found north of the equator. But none quite match
the marine iguana for sheer weirdness even
Charles Darwin called them hideous looking.
Despite being the only sea-going lizard on the
planet, they live on land, diving the shallows off
the islands to feed on algae, where most
swimmers will encounter them.
SEE THEM: Year-round, with Tortuga Beach on
Santa Cruz island and the algae-rich pastures of West Indian manatees
Isabela islands Tagus Cove popular spots for
seeing large numbers of marine iguanas WHERE? Florida, USA
(sometimes hundreds) and good for swimming. Around 6,000 West Indian manatees summer
in the warm waters of Floridas Gulf Coast,
ambling its shallows and grazing for up to
eight hours a day. Slow, curious and gentle,
theyre ideal companions for snorkellers, with
north-west Floridas Crystal River the only
place you can legally swim with these
creatures, paddling its warm (22C)
spring-fed waters in peace.
SEE THEM: Between November and March is
high season for manatees in Florida, though a
small population of mothers and calves can be
seen year-round at Crystal Rivers Kings Bay.
Wanderlust April 2017 | 65
 TRAVEL Become an instant expert
with our travel know-how

MASTERCLASS
Hangin on
Hadrian
Britains
favourite wall
see p76
Alamy

This months experts include: Family camper Simon McGrath, p68

South American brain Ben Box, p70 Outdoor photographer Steve Watkins, p72
Water worried Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth, p74 Travel boozer Adrienne Stillman, p76
Wanderlust April 2017 | 67
Bridging the
generation gap
But does the family
that stays together, er,
stay together
The Wanderlust Masterclass
Survive a multi-generational trip
F
or many travellers, the thought
of bringing the family along
on their journeys is a real
bubble-burster a tension
headache of the whining or
the infirm. However,
multi-generational trips (three or more
generations) are becoming more common,
with tour operators reporting more family
groups booking their itineraries.
But while travelling with those closest to us
can deepen our travel experiences and our
relationships, keeping everyone happy is
a tricky juggling act. So, how do we ensure
that our first big family trip is enriching,
68 | Wanderlust April 2017
instead of exhausting? And how can we
avoid screaming at one another?
Plan for the whole
With so many different pockets of family
members to cater for, it can be tricky to know
where to start with a multi-gen trip. Its worth
getting the ball rolling well in advance
(roughly a year) so you can suss out
everybodys availability. Then, nail down
a date and make sure you all stick to it. When
it comes to the actual decision making,
inclusive should be the operative word.
Get the whole family involved in the
planning, advises Simon McGrath, author
of Camping With Kids. Throw a nice big
Sunday lunch for everyone and get chatting
about where you want go and what you
want to do. That builds up excitement. This
way, youll be able to gauge everyones limits
and draw on their ideas to put together a trip
that has things which will appeal to everyone.
You need to remember everyones
different physical capabilities, adds Carmen
Sognonvi, from Top Flight Family
(topflightfamily.com). With your family
ranging from young children to
grandparents, its important to make sure
there are activities they can all manage.
Rural retreats in Spain are a good first family

Test the water with a family day trip. That way, you
have a clearer idea of everyones interests, energy
levels and, crucially, tolerance for each other
trip, with epic landscapes for walks, wine
estates for the adults and open space for
youngsters to enjoy. Home rentals in your
own country are always a winner too, while
places where meals are included avoid
frequent disputes over payment.
If youve never been on a multi-gen trip
before, planning so far in advance also means
you have time to test the water, by embarking
on a family day trip or weekend away
beforehand. That way, you have a clearer
idea of everyones interests, energy levels
and crucially, tolerance for each other,
which you can then factor into the planning.
Have your own space
Just because youre all away together, it
doesnt mean you have to live in each others
pockets 24/7. Whats worked for us
is to be really relaxed about
whether everyone joins in with
things or not, explains Jae top tip
Hopkins who climbed Be prepared to be flexible
Mount Kilimanjaro with her with your itinerary at any
mum and son, among many moment things wont
other multi-gen trips. As long always go to plan.
as theres no pressure on people,
the trip feels seamless and easy.
Everyone doing the same thing can
feel a little like shepherding cattle, especially
if your family is large. With ages potentially
ranging from 8-88, its good to include
different activities for specific ages, to break
up the large group at times.
Everyone will enjoy their time together
much more if you allow people to be apart
sometimes, too, adds Lissa Poirot from
Family Vacation Critic (familyvacationcritic.
com). This provides opportunities for those
not involved to recharge and relax, too.
Dont be afraid to make these spin-off
adventures spontaneous as well, especially if
people are feeling restless a random activity
or spot of relaxation off the cuff can be exciting.
Parents should plan their own day trips
with the kids to have some breathing space
from the wider family circle as well, advises
Simon. Grandparents can act as babysitters
too, if parents want some alone time. Its
tricky, but once you strike the right balance
Alamy
between all-inclusive activities and things
for different family members to do, your trip
should feel much more fluid.
Keep the peace
Its inevitable on family trips: arguments will
flare up at least once. When things get
a little heated, know when to head off for
some quiet time, suggests Simon. Avoid
bringing up sensitive family subjects they
can wait for another day back at home.
Setting guidelines is an easy solution to
preventing awkward situations. For example,
people may have daily routines they need to
stick to, such as childrens bedtimes, or be
early risers. Its important to communicate,
adds Carmen. When youre together for
such an intense amount of time, by talking to
each other you can avoid things blowing up.
But make sure you reunite at some
stage in the evening to reminisce,
too. We all connect again in
the evening and catch up with
everyone about their day,
adds Jae. Theres something
really lovely about the post
mortem around the dinner
table, hearing about what
everyones been up to.
Capture the memories
Dont be so preoccupied keeping everyone
happy that you forget to take a photo. Your
first multi-generational trip should be
remembered , so get that group shot in front of
Uluru or in the Outer Hebrides wild beaches.
Time spent as a wider family group is
precious time together, so make sure you
capture and preserve those memories, says
Simon. A book with all your images in one
place acts as a nice keepsake and will serve
as a nice tool to remember the holiday by at
future family gatherings (and may be
a prompt for further adventures).
Youve probably always wondered what a
trip abroad with the whole family might be
like (and possibly shuddered at the thought).
But with a bit of preparation and sensitivity,
your experience doesnt have to end in
arguments quite the opposite. And with
any luck, your intrepid travels together
could even become a family tradition.
Masterclass Advice
Case study
KATIE MAUNDRELL
Reader Katie explains how she got
through a multi-gen trip unscathed
How did you plan a
multi-generational trip?
I think the key for us was
delegating different jobs
to different people. My
family live all over the country, so to get
everyone to one airport at the same time
can prove difficult. You need to set a date
and stick to it. Choose one person to be in
charge of flights and arranging special
requirements at airports this is crucial if
you have people who arent very mobile.
Similarly, its also good to organise
transport at the other end in advance too.
How do you balance everyones
different demands and interests?
We stick to activities that everyone can
join in with. Although we all have
different interests, everyone enjoys
going on a sightseeing tours of different
cities and vineyards. When planning, we
look for things that are accessible for the
very young and very old for example,
a sightseeing tour that involves
transport, rather than just walking.
How do you get the most out of
multi-generational trips?
Making sure you organise enough
inclusive activities, but also allowing
enough time for people to relax and
spend quality time together. For the old
and young, travelling can be tiring, so
making sure you have enough breaks
helps and also allows you to enjoy
quality time. Flexibility is also important:
if someone doesnt feel well then the
plans can change quickly.
What different experience does
a multi-generational trip offer to
your travelling?
It gives you the chance to do things that
you may not do with people your own
age. Considering activities that other
people would enjoy means you
broaden your horizons as well. Its
great to catch up with people you
havent seen for a while and keep
the family connection intact.
Would you go on another one?
I would, yes. It was fun and having three
generations together means you have
so many different experiences.
Wanderlust April 2017 | 69
ASK THE
EXPERTS
Get off-the-beaten track away from Lisbon, explore the
Outer Hebrides in 7 days, get fit for Annapurna and Torres
del Paines permit problems your questions, our experts
THE EXPERTS
Mark Rowe
Journalist and author of
Bradt Travel Guides Outer Hebrides
(www.bradtguides.com)
Sin Pritchard-Jones
Himalaya trek organiser and guide,
co-author of Trekking Annapurna
(www.cicerone.co.uk)
Edwina Pitcher
Author of Wild Things
Publishings Wild Guide Portugal
(www.wildthingspublishing.com)
Ben Box
South American expert and author
of Footprint Handbooks Patagonia
(www.footprinttravelguides.com)
70 | Wanderlust April 2017
Q Q
Im going to Lisbon but
want to use a couple of
days for off-the-beaten-
track places. Any ideas?
George Richardson, via email
A A
You dont need to travel far
to escape the crowds of
Lisbon. There are some
wonderful coastal locations within
an hours train or car from Lisbon.
About 25km away, Sintra has
a 2km hiking route up to a Moorish
castle. A 20 min drive from Sintra
brings you to Praia Grande do
Rodzio, a fabulous stretch of sand.
You can fit your palm deep into the
footprints of dinosaurs left 125 million
years ago in the surrounding rocks.
At the seaside town of Cascais,
hire a bike near the station for the
2km cycle route to Guinchos sandy
beach. A walking trail (three hours)
leads north to the deserted Praia do
Abano cove just beyond, and then
up on to wild cliffs. A 9km hike north
along coastal paths leads to Cabo
da Roca, known as continental
Europes westernmost point.
At Arrbida Natural Park green
hills sweep down to a blue, calm sea
perfect for snorkelling. A 30 min drive
inland are grottoes at Quinta do Anjo;
hand-hollowed Neolithic caves.
Stop at the town of Azeito, famous
for its cheese and wine. Take
a 20 min drive south to Setbal and
then a short ferry ride and cross over
to the Tria peninsular (and look out
for dolphins). There are many fishing
harbours feast on the days catch
at Carrasqueira or Alccer do Sal.
Edwina Pitcher, author of Wild
Guide Portugal (Wild Things)
Ive got a week to travel
the Outer Hebrides.
What should I make
sure is on my list of things to see?
Sarah Kopik, via email
The Outer Hebrides has
everything for a perfect
week-long trip, from
fabulous food, beaches, wildlife,
archaeology and museums to
a great deal of sheer emptiness.
Begin on Lewis with the haunting
Callanish stones. Head up the coast
to the restored blackhouses of
Na Gerrannan for an insight into
traditional island life. Keep going
north to the wilds of Ness where
a lighthouse guards the most
north-westerly point of Europe.
Turning south, spend a day in Plan evening meals around the
Stornoway sampling the cafs and menu at Croft 36, where a roadside
visit the new Island Museum which hut conceals crab ravioli and
houses six Uig chessmen pieces. To mouth-watering cakes. Take the
see where they were uncovered, inter-island ferry across the Sound
make for vast Uig sands and explore of Harris. Sit at the back and watch
the serrated coastal landscape gannets plummet into the sea.
around Mangersta. The community Can you butter up your boss and
caf at nearby Timsgarry has superb take another three days to visit the
food at roadside prices. Uists and Barra? Dine at Caf Kisimul,
Explore the North Harris Hills, Scotlands best curry house and keep
climbing Clisham (799m) and your boss sweet by taking them back
hiking the Postmans Trail from a side of salmon from Barratlantic.
Rhenigidale to Tarbert. Walk to the Mark Rowe, author of Bradts
lighthouse on the island of Scalpay Outer Hebrides guidebook
and also take the road to Huisinish
Q
beach and the golden eagle hide. How fit do I need to be
Youll need two days for for the Annapurna
Luskentyre. Beaches at Scarista and Circuit and what
Northton will make you catch your training would you recommend?
breath. For contrast, visit the Sebastian Fernando, via email
A
moonscape of boulders and fjord-like A reasonable level of
inlets on Harriss east coast or visit physical fitness is
medieval St Clements at Rodel. necessary, but you dont
 Masterclass Q&A

Classic Cascais
Lisbons day trips are
easy to access and
worth the effort
Insiders Guide to...

SWEDEN
Paolo Bonato, product manager
at adventure tour operator
Exodus (exodus.co.uk), shares
his icy pastimes, best boltholes
and how Stockholm shines in the sun...
WINTER WONDERS: Deep inside the Arctic Circle, Lappeasuando is the
perfect base to enjoy a range of winter activities like dogsledding,
snowshoeing and ice fishing in frozen lakes all with the added
bonus of the extraordinary northern lights!
COOL STAYS: Staying in an ice room at the ICEHOTEL is one of the
most incredible stays you could have, anywhere. Everything around
you looks so pristine. Every guest is provided with some serious
winter overall gear and boots to wear throughout. You dont feel the
cold at all, even if its -20C outside! Try having dinner at the
Homestead restaurant, a charming timber building built in 1768,
a short walk from the ICEHOTEL it offers a rustic la carte menu in
a welcoming and homely atmosphere.
STOCKHOLM SUMMERS: Although the Swedish capital is
a year-round destination, the city truly comes alive in the summer
months. From May to early September the Swedes pour out onto
the streets, enjoying fika (meaning to have coffee) in one of the
pavement cafs, cycling, strolling in the park or taking a dip.
Stockholm is built on a series of islands and is the perfect city to
enjoy the water. You can swim right in the heart of the city, hire
a kayak or hop aboard a traditional steamer out into the archipelago.

and how far in advance should stay in advance. Without any

There are some wonderful locations on the I look to book? reservations you will be turned

Portuguese coast hidden beaches, caves Rachel Bonny, via email back by park rangers.

and castles just an hour from Lisbon
need to be a marathon runner. Much
will depend on acclimatisation and
stamina before crossing the Thorong
La pass allow sufficient time for
this and do not rush. To this end, we
do not recommend taking transport
beyond Chame as the slow progress
will aid acclimatisation (and the
scenery is great). It is vitally
important not to go too fast, even if
youre sure you have no symptoms
of altitude sickness. Take your time
and soak in the atmosphere of the
hills, if that is possible, for a few
weekends before the trek. That
might be difficult for city dwellers,
so take the stairs whenever
possible. Have you tried walking up
the Shard? Some people run or jog
before treks, but be careful if this is
not your normal form of exercise.
After this trek, the skys the limit!
Sin Pritchard-Jones and Bob
Gibbons, co-authors of Cicerones
Trekking Annapurna guidebook
A
The immense popularity
of Torres del Paine
National Park has
led CONAF, the Chilean national
parks department, to introduce
a new system for the two most
popular treks, El Circuito Macizo
Paine (or O or Grande) and the
W, to limit numbers and reduce
degradation. These treks take
seven and five days respectively.
You must stay at official refuges
and campsites along the way. Some
campsites are run by CONAF and
are free; some campsites and the
refuges are run by private
companies, Vrtice
The CONAF website (www.
parquetorresdelpaine.cl) has a map
showing the trails and gives a link to
the page for reserving their campsites.
Enquiries locally can be made at the
CONAF office in Puerto Natales,
Baquedano 847; all CONAF
addresses are given on the website.
For Vrtice and Fantstico Sur, book
through their websites, or at their
local offices if the web booking
doesnt work. This only applies (so
far) to the 2016-2017 season. To
enter the park without trekking, or
to do day treks, you do not need
advance reservation.
The best advice, if visiting

Q
high Himalaya. Using trekking poles
for support is recommended.
As for training, the best
Alamy
Now Torres Del Paine (www.verticepatagonia.com) and between 1 October to 30 April (high
National Park has Fantstico Sur (www.fantasticosur. season), is to plan and book ahead.
introduced permits, com). Under the new system, Ben Box, co-author of Footprints

preparation is to walk up and down whats the best way to get one trekkers have to reserve places to Patagonia guidebook

Wanderlust April 2017 | 71

TAKE
BETTER 1 Gear up
TRAVEL Underwater housings are available for
many cameras, smartphones and action

PHOTOS
cameras, which allow you to take your
device below the waves. Housing with an
optical quality glass port over the lens will
ensure the best possible results. Check the
depth rating of the housing and avoid going
What does it take any deeper with it your device wont enjoy
an encounter with saltwater.
to get a great
underwater shot?
Not as much as you
think, says Steve
Watkins, head judge of
the Outdoor Photographer
of the Year competition

W
hether you are a
committed scuba
diver or simply
enjoy occasionally
donning the mask
on your travels, the
underwater world is a compelling
environment to photograph. Swede Johan
Sundelin took this image of California sea
lions while snorkelling off Santa F Island,
in the Galpagos Islands. The real
2 Use a good guide
Photography conditions in the sea are
heavily influenced by the underwater
challenge of capturing this emotive image topography of the area and prevailing
was avoiding attracting the attention of the weather and tide conditions. Using local,
potentially aggressive alpha male. To do qualified dive guides or joining a dive centre
this Johan needed to lie very still while trip will significantly increase your chances
keeping his wits about him. of seeing impressive sea life and help you to
While colours or the sea life often create be in the right place at the right time for the
the visual impact of underwater images, best light and visibility.
Johans image stood out to the judges
because of its subtlety: the emotional
power comes from the exquisite light and
surrounding shadows focusing attention
on the tender moment captured.

Steve Watkins is editor of Outdoor

Photographer magazine. All shortlisted
images from this years competition
are in Outdoor Photographer of the
Year 2016 (out now, 25, Ammonite Press)

72 | Wanderlust April 2017

3 Be patient
Creatures in our oceans can be
exceptionally skittish, so its crucial to be
calm and patient when you are trying to
take images. Any sudden movements from
you are likely to cause your subject to flee
the scene. Its better to scout a location with top tip
If you cant justify buying a
good image potential and then wait quietly
until the sea life comes to you. solid underwater housing then
check out the soft housings
made by companies such as
Ewa-Marine. They offer great
depth ratings and optical
glass ports, without
the price tag.

5Get close
The way light refracts through water
means that subjects below the surface
appear larger to our eyes than they actually
are. If you shoot from a normal distance,
the sea life in the resulting images will be
excruciatingly small in the frame. Closer
is always better when it comes to

4Light the way

Just below the surface you can
usually take images in the available
underwater photos, unless the subject
poses a physical danger!

daylight, just as Johan did here. Go deeper

than a few metres though and the light
levels drop off quickly. Either choose
a camera with built-in flash or consider
investing in strobe lights that sit off the
camera body; the latter create sidelight
that adds visual depth to an image.

Wanderlust April 2017 | 73


Masterclass Health
TRAVEL
CLINIC
with Doctor Jane
What lies beneath
Some people feel at home in the water, but more often than
not youre a little fish in a big pond. Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth
looks at the frequently unseen risks of swimming in the wild
W
hether
climbing
into a
secluded
forest pond
or swimming with humpbacks
off the Western Australian coast,
it is often the lure of the unknown
that draws us into the water.
Paradoxically, it is also what goes
unseen that people imagine poses
the biggest threat to our safety.
But while it is easy to imagine
piranhas or sharks lurking
beneath, how likely is a dangerous
encounter while swimming?
The USA has suffered the most
recorded shark attacks on Earth,
claim Floridas International
Shark Attack File, yet the stats
show you are around a thousand
times more likely to drown in its
waters than be attacked by
a shark. Worldwide, on average,
there are less than 70 shark
attacks a year and, of these,
around six prove fatal. The threat
of a great-white attack might be
a fine travellers tale, but the
facts say that it is the physical
environment which is most likely
to harm us. Still, there are plenty
of other dangers to consider.
74 | Wanderlust April 2017
+
INTO THE WILD
With the growth in popularity of
wild swimming, new dangers are
emerging. Estuarine crocodiles
(or salties) have attacked
significant numbers of people in
South-East Asia and Australia.
Known for their aggression, on
average, salties kill two people in
Australia every year.
As with all water hazards, take
local advice: there are frequently
warning signs in Australia to
mark where there have been
crocodile attacks. Such incidents
are most likely when people pose
close to an animal or clean freshly
caught fish near the water.
In the Americas it is especially
worth being aware of stingrays.
Whether resting in the sandy
shallows off a beach or at the
bottom of a river, they can be hard
to spot. But if you stand on one, it
is likely to lash out at you with its
Live coral looks beautiful but innocuous it is
not look but do not touch; after contact with
coral it is best to irrigate the skin with vinegar
long venomous spiky tail. At best,
this will be incredibly painful; at
worst, attacks can be fatal.
The venom of the stingray is
inactivated by immersion in hot
(not scalding) water. Prevention
is better than cure, though.
When wading in the waters of
the tropical Americas, be sure to
shuffle your feet and the stingray
will usually swim away. This is
a sensible tactic to adopt
elsewhere in the world, too, as it
may also help to deter other
bottom-dwelling fish, such as the
venomous stonefish (found in easy to swim into these creatures.
the Indo-Pacific region) and the Fortunately there are only
viciously painful but unlikely to a handful of species that are
be deadly weever fish, which are potentially fatal, which account
known to dwell in both for around 30 deaths a year. Many
European and British waters. of these occur in the warm waters
around northern Australia and
PASSIVE DANGERS South-East Asia. Some species are
huge but the highly venomous
Jellyfish stings are a more Irukandji jellyfish, found off the
common problem, as it is all too coasts of Florida and Australia,
is only the size of a fingernail.
Unfortunately, first aid
measures differ depending on the
jellyfish species, so prevention is
the only cure-all. One technique
practised in Australia is to swim
while wearing two pairs of

womens tights: one worn
conventionally, the other worn on
the upper body and arms, having
previously cut a head hole into
the gusset. Jellyfish are more likely
to endanger beach swimmers
when there is a strong wind
blowing from the sea towards
land; local lifeguards are often
able to issue warnings.
Live coral looks beautiful but
innocuous it is not look but do
not touch. Fire coral (which is
actually a closer relation to the
jellyfish than coral) hides
a nasty sting; after contact with
coral, or even sponge, it is best to
Dreamstime
irrigate the skin with vinegar
and wash carefully, removing
any pieces or debris. Even slight
scrape wounds are often slow to
heal. Wear protective footwear
when swimming to reduce the
chances of venomous fish stings
and coral pieces penetrating the
soles of your feet.
THE UNSEEN
The amount of salt in sea water
is not strong enough to be
antiseptic: if you take a gulp of
polluted water, you can contract
hepatitis A and other filth-to-
mouth microbes. It is possible
to end up plunging into dilute
raw sewage without knowing, so
if the water looks very murky, it
is wise to bathe elsewhere.
Sometimes tropical seas can
look red because of algal blooms
precipitated by pollution. These
red tides can cause eye
irritation, even to those walking
along the beach, while swimming
in such seas will make you itch.
Inland waters are also prone to
pollution, contamination and
algal overgrowth. The water may
look green and is likely to be
frothy. Swallowing any may lead
to a stomach upset and, as with
red tides, it may also cause eye
and skin irritation.
In association with
Travel Health Advice and Vaccination
+
Travel health experts
for over 30 years.
+
More than 170 UK clinics.
+
Appointments to suit you
across the network.
+
No itinerary too simple
or too complex.
Use our free vaccine checker,
find your nearest clinic
and book online at:
www.masta-travel-health.com
or call 0330 100 4200.
TAKE CARE
A much more common hazard
for snorkellers and swimmers is
sunburn. It is best to be covered
or apply plenty of sunscreen at
frequent intervals, as getting
painful sunburn, just once every
two years, can triple your risk of
melanoma skin cancer, cautions
Cancer Research UK.
Even close to home there are
inviting waters to plunge into.
Remember that these can be
surprisingly cold, and if you are
unused to wild swimming, the
shock can literally take your
breath away and even stress
the heart. And never dive head
first into unknown waters.
In general, dont be afraid to
ask around. Always heed local
advice and, if adventuring alone,
let someone know your plans
beforehand. You can easily be
cut off by tides, swept out to sea
or carried along a fast-moving
stream. Rescues more likely if you
inform others of your plans.
Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth is always
surprised at the objects that skulk
underwater and can snag the
unwary; www.wilson-howarth.com
Wanderlust April 2017 | 75
Masterclass Instant Expert

Instant Expert

5 of the best
DRINKING SPOTS
IN LATIN AMERICA
Hadrians Wall
Expert bartenders from across Why are we talking about a wall? How is its anniversary being celebrated?
South America reveal their go-to
Its not just a wall, its Britains largest Many museums along the wall will be hosting
bars for a refreshing tipple
surviving remnant of Roman rule not to collections of Roman armour and weapons as

1 Andrs Carne de Res,

Cha, Colombia
Having started out as a burger
shack over 25 years ago,
this is now a nightlife hotspot
for locals. Pulsing with music
and good food,its a raw shot
of Colombian culture though
it is outside the city, so book
your ride back in advance.
mention a staggering monument. Built
nearly two millennia ago to protect Roman
Britains northern fringes from
marauding Picts, much of the
117km-long barrier is now in
ruins, but both its route and
history are still traceable. And
in 2017, Emperor Hadrians
legacy celebrates 30 years of
UNESCO status 1,600 years
part of the Hadrians Wall Cavalry exhibition
(8 Apr10 Sep; hadrianswallcountry.co.uk).
Elsewhere, Bitts Park in Carlisle also
did you seesthe arrival of a turma (troop)
of 30cavalrymen, toperform live
know? training exercises similar to
Sadly, only around 10% those ofEmperor Hadrians
ofthe original Hadrians heyday (1-2 July).
Wall survives; the rest has
What else should I
eitherbeenremoved,
buried or destroyed. look out for?

2 Amaz, Lima, Peru

This notable restaurant
and bar draws its inspiration
from the wilds of the Peruvian
Amazon, with its cocktails
deriving straight from the
jungle, utilising rarely tasted
fruits like taperib and cocona.
after the Romans left Britain.
Wow. It sounds like a mighty feat.
It was. It took more than 15,000 men six
years (122-128 AD) to build it out of stone and
turf, stretching from Solway Firth estuary in
the west to where the River Tyne approaches
the eastern coast. Forts and milecastles stud
its length, but its presence is felt across the
Much of Hadrians Wall was settled
during the Norman and medieval eras:
Newcastles fortified keep and Carlisles
impressive castle were both built over Roman
fortresses. Pretty market towns also stud the
walls length, but if you truly want to escape,
make instead for the flanking wilds of
Northumberland NP and the North

3 Jobi, Rio de Janeiro,

Brazil
Forget bottled beer, its all
region. Today, the old Northumberland
garrison town ofCorbridge is littered with
the remains ofgranaries and temples; South
Pennines. Pure natural drama.

about chope (draft) in Rio,
andthis institution (dating from
1956) serves it better than
anywhere else, as locals
rollingin from a day on the
Copacabana would attest.
Shields Arbeia Fort recalls Roman life in its
pomp; and the longest surviving stretch of
wall is found at Birdoswald Fort in Cumbria.
You can even follow a 135km path that
threads its way between Wallsend and
Bowness-on-Solway, walking the length of

4 W Lounge,
Santiago, Chile
A place for style-minded
the wall in its entirety through some
beautiful countryside.

travellers, this trendy hotel bar

(with a vast wine cellar) lures
drinkers from all corners of the
planet. Plus, its 24th-floor
setting affords spectacular
panoramic views of Santiago.

5 Sanata Bar, Buenos

Aires, Argentina
A colourful corner bar with
wall-to-wall murals. Sanata
throbs with locals dancing to
asoundtrack of Argentine
tango and Latin vibes and
thedrinks arent bad either.

Adapted
from Where East meets west
Bartenders Drink You might not be able
(Phaidon, 17) to walk on the wall
these days, but you can
by Adrienne trace its route from
Stillman. onecoast to another
Out now.
Getty

76 | Wanderlust April 2017

 Masterclass Gear

T r a v e l l e r s G u i d e To . . .

WALKING Xtra
Wanderlust Xtra
Gives You More!

TROUSERS
Scan where you see the
Wanderlust Xtra icon
to buy your trousers now

From strolling up mountain peaks to shimmying into village pubs, a good pair of
trousers will take your from tours to trails and planes to paths in supreme comfort

FABRIC
Ripstop fabric is always a great choice,
and means the trousers wont tear far if
FIT
When trying on trousers, its always worth
snagged. Also look for agood UPF rating,
seeing how they fit when both standing
as this offers protection from the sun
and sitting make sure the waist doesnt
15 ispretty decent but 50+ is the best.
go down too low atthe back when sat,
andthat the legs dont riseup too far either.

WEIGHT
You dont want your trousers to weigh
you down literally so look for a
lightweight, durable non-crease fabric
that rolls down small and dries quickly.
POCKETS
Great if you need them, heavy if you
dont select the model with the right
amount for you. Youll notice some
trousers have hidden security pockets
that can be great if travelling to places
where pickpocketing is a particular issue.

ADDED KNEES
EXTRAS With trousers, you want to make sure
Some may come infused with insect you have good freedom of movement.
repellent (as either a lifetime guarantee The knees should be articulated and
or for a limited number of washes), cut in such a way to make this happen.
which can be a very handy feature.

SEAMS
Pay attention to these, making sure your
trousers dont have any extra stitching in
places that could rub against your skin
when in hot countries or while out walking.

Wanderlust April 2017 | 77

Walking trousers
We test out your essential travel kit, so you dont have to

VALUE
BUY
ALPKIT OEX
Karoo/ Tonka 40/45 Baru Tech Trouser 45
www.alpkit.com www.gooutdoors.co.uk/oex
The test: At the budget end of the The test: A fairly new brand made by
scale comes this quick-drying, fast- the people behind Go Outdoors, its no
wicking trouser with a high UPF of 50+. shock theyre taking on the budget
The waistband is lined with a soft fabric Xtra Xtra market. And by using a robust Ripstop Xtra Xtra

for comfort, and the two open pockets
at the front are mesh-lined, soyou
dont get too hot. Inside one ofthe
front pockets is a hidden zipped
security pocket. Theres also azipped pocket further down the leg and
two open back pockets. The knees are articulated, to help you walk
easier, and you can even roll up the legs and button them to allow for
athee-quarter length. They were the lightest on test (248g; size 12), so
luggage friendly but a little more stretch would have made them ideal.
The verdict: A good price for high sun protection and multiple features
at a good weight mean this easily takes our Value Buy accolade.
fabric with a water-repellent coating,
theyre doing apretty good job of it, too.
The knee is articulated, with panels for
comfort, and the waistband is covered
with a soft fabric. There are two zipped pockets on the front and one on
the back, which is handy though not discreet (which is a shame for
travellers). There is also no UPF rating, although the weight of the fabric
likely offers some protection, which brings us to the downside. Tipping
the scalesat 448g (size 12), these are the heaviest on test by a fair way.
The verdict: A great low-priced option for hill-walking, but they do lack
some basic features that would have made them ideal for travellers.

Features: Protection: Features: Protection:

Design: Value: Design: Value:
Comfort: Overall: Comfort: Overall:

BERGHAUS ROYAL ROBBINS

Navigator II Discovery Pencil Pant /
Stretch Pant 50 Billy Goat Pant 55/59
www.berghaus.com www.royalrobbins.co.uk
The test: These trousers havebeen The test: Another brand tried and tested
dyed in a way that saves on water and with travellers. These are made from
uses fewer chemicals and less CO2. Xtra Xtra
acotton-feel nylon-and-spandex blend that Xtra

With an impressive 50+ UPF, they also
boast a good level of sun protection.
Two mesh-lined open pockets are
found at the front as well as azipped
security one. There are poppered pockets on the leg (one) and back
(two), though the studs can be uncomfortable. Theres also a reasonable
amount of stretch in the leg, while the fabric is durable and reinforced
atthe leg cuffs. The waistband is partially coated and the knee is cut to
allow movement, but these were the third-heaviest on test (327g; size 12).
The verdict: A robust pair of trousers with multiple pockets and good
features for walkers its just a shame that theyre on the heavier side.
is super stretchy, wrinkle-resistant, quick-
drying and comes with a UPF of 50+.
The waistband has a mesh strip, to help
keep you cool; the two front pockets are
also mesh-lined its just a shame there
wasnt a discreet security pocket. The stretchy fabric offers good
freedom of movement, but the placement of the thick seam down the
front of the leg is odd, making them less comfortable when kneeling.
Weight-wise, they are the second-lightest (256g) on test.
The verdict: A soft fabric with some key features and a light weight
itsa pity about the seam placement and lack of secure pockets, though.

Features: Protection: Features: Protection:

Design: Value: Design: Value:
Comfort: Overall: Comfort: Overall:

78 | Wanderlust April 2017

 Masterclass Gear

How we did the test

We asked gear manufacturers to submit the walking trousers they felt were most
suitable for travellers, being easy to use, made from a lightweight and quick-drying
fabric, and comfortable. From the 16 we were sent, our editor, Phoebe Smith, took
them out on the road to see which performed the best. The eight here are all Wanderlust
Approved, with a Value Buy and overall Best in Test indicated. All are available in
mens and womens fits, with the different names and prices indicated where applicable.

CRAGHOPPERS SHERPA
Kiwi Pro Stretch 45 Mirik Pant 50
www.craghoppers.com www.sherpaadventuregear.com
The test: At the same price as The test: These soft Nepalese-made
the OEX model comes this trousers are a mix of cotton and
super-stretchy offering from nylon for durability, and spandex for
Craghoppers. The use of Xtra Xtra stretch. They also have a smarter look, Xtra Xtra

stain-resistant, water-repellent making them ideal for moving from

and quick-drying fabric is akey
feature. They also claim to have
a solar shield that offers sun
protection (no UPF is supplied). The waist is not coated but the stretch
and cut of the knees is comfy. All three pockets (two at the front, one at
the back) are discreetly hidden in the seam and zip-closed, but not
mesh-lined (one also contains a lens wipe). All this comes in at
a respectable 287g (size 12), making them third-lightest on test.
The verdict: There are some nice extra features for travellers here,
though some small niggles combine to keep them from the top spot.
trail to town, and are robust as well
as wrinkle-resistant. There is no UPF
rating given, however. They do have
two open pockets at the front and one hidden zipped pocket on the leg
(all mesh- lined). The seams on the back are tilted to help with comfort if
wearing abackpack, and as with all Sherpa gear, a cut of the sale goes to
the Paldorje Education Foundation to help benefit Sherpa children. But
they do lose points for being the second-heaviest on test (337g; size 12).
The verdict: A smart-looking, well-designed pair of trousers with a nice
backstory, though others here offer a few more features for less cash.

Features: Protection: Features: Protection:

Design: Value: Design: Value:
Comfort: Overall: Comfort: Overall:

BEST IN
PRAMO ROHAN TEST
Atca Trousers / Maui Trailblazers 85
Trousers 60 www.rohan.co.uk
www.paramo.co.uk The test: You may pay more,
The test: The first thing youll notice but this trouser caters well for
is the fabric. Suitably robust, they travellers. For a start, the fabric
hide aclever feature its trademark Xtra Xtra
is stretchy, quick-drying, Xtra Xtra

directional design, meaning it wicks crease-resistant and durable

sweat away quickly, keeping you cool
and dry ideal for hot-weather
hiking. They also boast a UPF of 50+
as well as adesign that allows unrestricted knee movement. The legs
can also be rolled upand secured using button down tabs to create a
cropped trouser. There are two open mesh-lined pockets at the front,
one of which comes with a zipped security pocket. And despite the
tough fabric, they were the third-lightest on test at 285g (size 12).
The verdict: A handy convertible pair of trousers that are a great option
in warmer weather, though some may prefer a lighter-feeling fabric.
while remaining soft to the
touch. The knees are cut well
(and comfy while hiking), plus
the belt helps give a good, close fit. There are two open mesh-lined
pockets at the front (one with azipped security pocket) as well as two
zipped ones on the legs. The fabric also offers good sun protection (UPF
40) and an Insect Shield to repel bugs, which lasts 70 washes (the expected
lifetime of the trousers). But at 330g, they were third-heaviest on test.
The verdict: A combo of features for travellers and fabric perfect for days
on the road make these the best in test though you do pay more for it.

Features: Protection: Features: Protection:

Design: Value: Design: Value:
Comfort: Overall: Comfort: Overall:

Wanderlust April 2017 | 79

Scandi thriller
Trekking the
Kungsladen from Ladtjo
Lake to Kebnekaise
 Sweden

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF

THE KINGS
Swedish Lapland isnt all ice hotels, skiing and stargazing
head there in summer and youll discover another world,
trekking one of Europes remotest trails: the Kungsleden
WORDS MARK STRATTON
Charged atmosphere
Two young male
reindeer practise their
fight techniques in front
of Swedish Laplands
scenic summer; (right)
walking through Abisko
National Park to the
mountain station

Previous spread Getty This page Dreamstime; Mark Stratton

82 | Wanderlust April 2017

 Sweden

W
as this the best tea Tourist Federation. In 1902, it began work
break in the world? on a hiking trail, a task made easier after
We had slipped the arrival of an iron-ore railway that
out of our trailblazed across Northern Lapland. The
rucksacks and route bore southwards from Abiskos
flopped onto the mountain station, and throughout the 20th
coarse beach surrounding Lake Alesjaure. century it was expanded in piecemeal
Across the freezing expanse, the mountains fashion until, by 1975, it had reached as far as
shone glossy black in the prevailing liquid the Hemavan Ski Resort in Vsterbotten
sunshine, venting waterfalls like tumbling County, 440km south of its starting point.
pearls. And as I sipped my tea the sugar Only then was one of Europes wildest hikes,
rush from some Jammie Dodgers biscuits the Kungsleden (or Kings Trail), complete,
kicking in life in the Arctic wilds seemed and it was this that Id come to experience.
so simple and pristine. The great thing about the trail is that
In winter, you just dont find moments you get a diverse wilderness encounter,
like this in Swedish Lapland. In those enthused my local guide, Mikael Nyman, as
months, trips here are all about the I checked into Hgalidsskolan outdoors
northern lights, staying in an ice hotel, centre in Kiruna. Birch forests, Swedens
dogsledding and encounters with reindeers biggest mountains, reindeer, lakes and lots
(usually christened Rudolph). But in the of wildflowers, he listed enthusiastically.
Land of the Midnight Sun,
when the snow turns to
slush and the huskies are I awoke to see reindeers grazing
kicking back, Swedens
Arctic north is an entirely
nearby in swirls of mist. A regal
different prospect.
The summer thaw is
young buck with top-heavy antlers
a siren call to trekkers, owing was a somewhat more divine sight
At an average walking pace, a month is
required to hike the entire Kungsleden,
but Id come to trek its remote final
quarter, a section entirely within the
Arctic Circle. Usually, though, all you
can expect to encounter en route are
scattered hikers, lots of reindeer and
a few curious Arctic hares. But I certainly
wasnt going to be alone this time.
Making friends
Since 2005, an annual mass hike has seen
thousands of walkers trek the final
stretch of the Kungsleden every summer,
backed up by checkpoints, food stations
and medics. Its called the Fjllrven
Classic, with entrants typically taking
five days to complete the 110km route
from near Kiruna to Abisko.
I joined a group of nine fellow hikers
(2,055 completed it in
total), led by a rather
famous Yorkshireman
called Alan Hinkes: the
only Briton among a select
few mountaineers to have
summitted all 14 of the
worlds 8,000m-plus

than my rehydrated breakfast

to some rather farsighted peaks. It felt like having
planning by the Swedish a Premier League

Wanderlust April 2017 | 83

 footballer turning out to captain
a Sunday league pub team. Everest, it wasnt.
But that he even felt this area worth his
time told me the journey would be special.
Aye, its different. But its the vastness of
this area that appeals to me. And to think
such wilderness exists in a modern country
like Sweden, enthused Alan. It wouldnt be
a stroll, he stressed, but reassured us that it
was more than doable for anyone with
some trekking and wild camping
experience and the right kit.
The events mass start began an hour
away from Kiruna at Nikkaluokta fell-
station, where a carnival atmosphere
prevailed and queues had formed at the
reindeer burger stall, which some wag had
christened LapDnalds. From there, we
set off along the Ladtjo Valley, a westward
spur of the Kungsleden proper that offered
better access from Kiruna.
We yomped through a forest of dwarf
willow and gnarled birch, treading a carpet
of ground-creeping juniper and bilberries,
which possessed tart little berries. The
minutia of the forest proved fascinating,
from toadstools any self-respecting garden
84 | Wanderlust April 2017
gnome would be happy to perch upon to
blazes of pink willowherbs and purple
harebells, and reindeer poo shaped like
chocolate-covered brazil nuts.
After two-hours, the Ladtjo River
dammed to form a 6km-long lake. Some
hikers, embracing the Scandinavian spirit,
had already whipped off their kit for an icy
dip. I shivered at the thought, instead
contenting myself with gazing up the
valley towards Swedens largest mountains,
the Kebnekaise Massif.
As the valley constricted to a pronounced
U-shape, I could almost visualise some Ice
Age glacier wedged within it, grinding
ancient bedrock to smithereens. It was then
that Alans words about the size of the area
came back to me, but this was just the start.
Big country
We reached the first checkpoint at
Kebnekaise Mountain Huts shortly after
the forest petered out. The massif north
formed bulbously rounded peaks rising
high above, with one bowl-shaped summit,
Tuolpagorni (1,662m), cradling summer
snow like an ice-cream cone.
On paper, the 20-to-25km treks planned
each day hadnt looked too daunting,
but continuous rain had made the
conditions underfoot tricky. As we
crossed slippery mud, bog-spanning
wooden boardwalks and bouldery scree
falls, I soon became grateful for the
regular presence of the mountain huts,
offering solace to our weary feet.
The huts boasted cafs, bunkrooms and
supply shops, and the free cinnamon buns
at Kebnekaise proved a real fillip. But with
many hikers camping around the station,
there was no room at the proverbial inn, so
Alan urged us to wild camp 3km further on.
It was during this early evening stretch
that Kungsledens uniqueness really started
to dawn on me. For a start, it offered the
novel sensation of 24-hour hiking, thanks
to the Arctic phonemena of midnight sun
during the summer months. It wasnt until
10.30pm that we finally made camp, yet
a lingering half-light left a perfectly
navigable fuzzy, peachy glow.
By this point, the volume of walkers had
also thinned and in this vast isolation, so
far inside the Arctic Circle, I suddenly felt
 Sweden

small and alone. Yet I was also excited to When the Singi checkpoint appeared The Tjktja, meanwhile, cavorted down
have the resources to survive in a realm six hours later, the Tjktja River sliced the valley, braiding into channels and
once considered the preserve of grizzled across our path, ushering in the official calving into oxbow lakes. Its a sodden
explorers. Glacial springs catapulted off Kungsleden from the south. Now veering environment, so care is required on the
the mountainsides, delivering pure sources northwards, the trails easy-to-follow narrow boardwalks that sometimes float on
of water, while the springy grass sward markers of red-painted rocks directed puddles like surfboards or tilt like seesaws.
provided a comfy mattress. us along the imperious Tjktjavagge Valley, During long stretches, the trek proved
Soon the hiss of Primus stoves around towards Slka. highly sociable and allowed ample time to
our impromptu campsite chat with my fellow
sounded like a serpents
convention. Should
We passed beneath the summit of hikers. Alan Hinkes had
outdoors tales to top all
I rehydrate game stew or Kartinvare. Amid such grandness others. Oh, the K2 that
cod in curry sauce,
I pondered? The latter won it was hard not to feel tiny, was a right gnarly
mountain, hed casually
the day and proved a delight.
Early the next morning, surrounded by the Arctic and drop in with some
understatement as
I awoke to see reindeers
grazing nearby in swirls of
that was all part of the appeal I endeavoured to keep
up with his bionic stride.
mist. A regal young buck with top-heavy That afternoon, I marvelled at snowy He also put into context the relative
antlers was a somewhat more divine cirques and turquoise-tinged glaciers, and difficulty of hiking the Kungsleden.
sight than my rehydrated chocolate between the mountaintops of After seven or eight of the 8,000m peaks
muesli. The animals loitered all morning Tuolpanjunnjetjkka and Kuopertjkka it wouldve been a good time to stop, he
as we climbed a treeless moorland I glimpsed Swedens highest peak, Kebnekaise began. Nine or ten was pushing my luck,
pockmarked with lakes and scree fans, (2,098m). But this accolade is disappearing and by the time Id nearly finished the 14, Id
Dreamstime; Mark Stratton

fashioning a sort of supersized Lake as fast as Kebnekaises mountaintop glacier psychologically come to terms with the fact
District that would have had is melting, and in a few years its altitude will I shouldve been dead. Our tired limbs
Wordsworth ramping up the hyperbole. likely dip beneath a neighbouring summit. were trifling by comparison, so imagine

Beaming miles
(left to right) Crossing
the planks that ease the
going on the Ladtjo Lake
to Kebnekaise section of
the Kungsleden, in the
company of Alan Hinkes
(centre); wild camping in
Kebnekaise NP

Wanderlust April 2017 | 85

Royal routes
(clockwise from this)
Kungsleden hiking over
the marshlands, aided
by old wooden planks;
reaching the heights of
the Tjktja Pass;
camping in Abisko NP;
the troupes four-
legged walker; a classic
fairytale toadstool
Sweden
Sweden
End point
Arriving at the walks
finishing line at
Abisko Mountain Station
how brave I felt when I bottled the
Swedish sauna up ahead.
Getting steamy
Quintessentially Scandinavian, some of
the huts along the Kungsleden have their
own saunas. Id steeled myself for a visit
to the one at Slka, our next overnight
stop, but the effort of chopping the wood
and the embarrassment of going publicly
starkers was too much, particularly as
I had just settled down with a nice beer
and a bag of nuts purchased from the shop.
And to continue the theme of nuts, the
sweaty stream of pale, naked bodies
exiting the sauna in the drizzle lacked
a certain je ne sais quoi.
We broke camp on the third morning for
a rugged 26.5km trek under a blackened
sky. The weather couldnt dampen the
scenery, though, as we passed through vast
fields of glacial moraine studded with
blocks of deposited quartz. All around,
bedrock stacked like Jenga tiles marked
a route to the Kungsledens highest point
at Tjktja Pass (1,140m).
Beyond this watershed col, a broad
stony plateau stretched ahead, while
carrot cupcakes at Tjktja checkpoint set
us up for an afternoon tracing the
meandering Alestno River. From three
hours out, I could see our projected
overnight camp: a small promontory of
huts above the silvery line of Lake
Alesjaure, calling to us as we perambulated
river bends and strode over boardwalks
88 | Wanderlust April 2017
spanning shamrock-green swathes of
sedges and cottongrass.
Then, as afternoon broke into evening,
sunbeams leaked through the fissures of
dark cloud, showering light on sparkling
tarns, delicate mountain flowers, distant
rainbows and granite boulders, on which
we perched for a scenic brew.
When we finally erected our tents near
Lake Alesjaures checkpoint, I encountered
my first setback: there was no cod in curry
sauce to be found anywhere. I decided to
pass on dinner, having spotted a ptarmigan
moseying around my guy ropes the Station. A giant Sami teepee had been
thought of rehydrating game casserole
would have created a major guilt trip.
Overnight, a hoolie battered vainly
against our tents, blowing away the clouds,
and we awoke to sunshine. A raven clucked
its approval on high. That mornings hike
was the most beautiful of all, following
a string of glacial-fashioned lakes. On the
opposite shore was a small settlement
called Alisjavri, occupied by Laplands
indigenous Sami people, who roam across
the region. Sweden has between 15,000 and
20,000 Sami, around 900 of which work as
reindeer herders. The free-roaming herds
wed seen were building-up their fat
reserves for winter, when temperatures can
plummet to around -40C.
Crossing an exposed pass, we veered
away from the lakes, passing beneath the
1,154m summit of Kartinvare. Amid such
grandness it was hard not to feel tiny,
surrounded by the cold indifference of the
Arctic. For my fellow companions,
however, that was all part of the appeal.
I have a very comfortable lifestyle,
explained Esther Green, a fellow hiker and
tax-accountant from Rugby. So I love the
feeling of getting back to basics. Small
things like brewing up on the lakeshore
mean so much more.
The final stretch
The steep descent to Kieron checkpoint
met returning birch and willow forest as
the valley narrowed. In the language of the
Sami, kieron means grouse, but it could
just as easily have meant heaven as we
arrived to hot pancakes, jam and cream.
Fully refuelled, we embarked on an
evening walk into the mystical mossy
forests of Abisko National Park. Established
in 1909 and stretching 77 sq km, the parks
tundra hides bears, lynxes and 213 species
of birds, including golden eagles. The
archaeological remains of trapping pits
suggest the Sami have inhabited this area
for several thousand years.
We set up camp in a sunlit clearing, and
during our final night I decided it was time,
at last, to embrace Scandinavian life. I drew
a sharp intake of breath and plunged into
the river. Extremities frozen, I felt
lightheaded with an exhilaration that
continued the next morning as we followed
the raging Abisko River, which hurtled
towards the Kungsledens denouement on
Lake Tornetrsks shoreline.
With 500m to go, it felt unnatural after
so long in the wild to see motor vehicles
and walk on tarmac again. It was also
moving to be applauded over the line by
the other hikers at Abisko Mountain
erected, and amid the rapture of
finishing I scarcely baulked at the 17.50
it cost for a beer and some falafel. A hot
shower, clean clothes and food (not
boiled in a bag) awaited.
I feel tired, excited, and a bit sad its
over, said Ben, an arboriculturalist from
Worthing who was walking with his
partner, Saskia. I loved it. Well, 90% of
it. The slippery rocks and rain were
challenging, but then moments of
stunning scenery and pancakes with
jam lift your spirits.
Previous spread Dreamstime; Mark Stratton This page Mark Stratton
Arctic Lapland has faces Id never
considered beyond its familiar wintertime
thrills. Id like to return one day and walk
it on my own, armed with the knowledge
the Kungsleden can probe your spirit and
fortitude one moment, and the next
embrace you in euphoric achievement.
I may have run out of my elusive cod in
curry sauce, but I was one happy camper.
 Swedish Lapland Footnotes
VITAL
STATISTICS
Main city: Kiruna
Population: 250,000
Language: Swedish; Sami dialect
Time: GMT+2 (OctMar GMT+1)
International dialling code: +46
Visas: Not required by UK nationals for
stays of up to 90 days
Money: Swedish Krona (SEK), currently
SEK11 to the UK
When to go
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec
Summer season peak hiking time,
with long hours of daylight and less snow.
Winter season the STF huts open in
late February. April to mid-May is the best
time to ski the Kungsleden (Kings Trail).
Abisko is also one of Europes best places
to witness the aurora borealis on clear
winter nights (October-April) .
Off season neither snowy enough to
ski the trail nor warm enough to hike; huts
will also close.
Health & safety
The weather can change quickly
check before attempting the Kungsleden.
Adecent level of fitness is also required,
as are regular fluids, calories and good
equipment (see Kit). Insect repellent
andhead nets are handy in summer.
Further reading
& information
Abisko to Kvikkjokk: Kungsleden North
(codyduncan.com) by Cody Duncan
e-book guide to the northern Kungsleden
8,000 Metres (Cicerone, 2013) by Alan
Hinkes thrilling tale of an epic quest
www.fjallraven.co.uk/classic trail site
www.swedishtouristassociation.com
information on huts and the Kungsleden
www.swedishlapland.com official
Swedish Lapland tourist board
www.visitsweden.com tourist board
More online
Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/175
for links to more content:
ARCHIVE ARTICLES
Hiking in the Worlds Biggest Wilderness:
Finlands Taiga Forest issue 122
10 Things to Do for Free in Stockholm
issue 119
8 Things You Must Do in Sweden online
Alamy, Digital-Mapping.co.uk
PLANNING GUIDES
Sweden Travel Guide
THE TRIP
The author travelled with Jagged Globe
(0114 276 3322, www.jaggedglobe.co.uk),
which is due to run the ten-day Fjllrven
Classic with Alan Hinkes OBE group trip in
August 2017. Places cost 1,595, including
return flights from the UK and all transfers,
entry to the Fjllrven Classic, cooking
fuel, half-board accommodation before
and after the hike, and a guide. The trip
also includes a training weekend in the
Peak District (full-board accommodation)
but not transport to and from it.
Entry for the Fjllrven Classic 2017
(11-18 Aug) costs SEK2,220pp (200) and
includes bus transfers to and from Kirunas
airport and railway station, maps, ahiking
pass, freeze-dried meals and cooking fuel.
Getting there
Scandinavian Airlines (0871
2267760, flysas.co.uk) fly from London
Heathrow to Kiruna via Stockholm from
approx 224 return; flight time from six
hours. Or fly to Stockholm (from around
100 return) and take the overnight train
(15 hours; prices vary) from Stockholm to
Kiruna if you want time in the Swedish
capital; tickets available online (www.sj.se).
Norwegian Airlines (norwegian.com)
flyfrom London to Kiruna via Stockholm
fromaround 210 return.
Getting around
Independent travellers can
getfrom Kiruna Airport to Nikkaluokta on
the No92 bus (SEK340/32). Return to
Kiruna from Abisko (trails end) either via
the No91 bus (SEK250/22) or by rail.
Bothbuses run throughout the winter
and summer seasons (see When to go);
visit ltnbd.se for timetables and dates.
Cost of travel
Sweden is more expensive than the
UK, but wild camping and rations on the
walk will offset costs. Pre-hike stays cost
from around 100 for a double. Food prices
at the STF huts (see below) start at 1.35
for acup of coffee and 5.50 for a beer.
Accommodation
On the trail are a number of STF
huts(swedishtouristassociation.com),
providing bunkhouse-style stays with
cafs, shops and saunas. Bed fees from
SEK460 (42); no pre-booking is required
but they can be busy at peak summertime.
Camp Ripan (Kiruna; ripan.se/en) has
arange of rooms and camping to suit all
budgets, plus aspa and buffet restaurant.
Twin rooms from SEK1,100 (100).
STF Abisko Mountain Station (Abisko;
+46 9804 0200) is a rambling complex
that includes a hotel, hostel beds and
camping, along with a sauna, restaurant
and a lounge to watch the northern lights.
From SEK1,525 (138) for aB&B twin room.
Kit
Hikers must be equipped for Arctic
conditions. The authorcarried a pack
weighing 17kg, with camping equipment
and rations. His basic kit list included:
Boots: You will require a lightweight boot
with strong ankle support and traction,
owing to conditions on the trail. Plus, if
youre camping, you wont have any way
to dry your boots, so look for footwear with
good waterproofing (preferably Gore-Tex).
The author used Hanwag Tatra GTX boots.
Waterproof jacket: A necessity on the
trail. You will need something breathable,
layered but able to fend off heavy showers,
with water-resistant zips. The author used
a Fjllrven Abisko eco-shell jacket.
Trousers: Hard-wearing but lightweight
trousers are vital. Look for a water-resistant
5 CLASSIC EUROPEAN TRAILS
1 GR20 (Corsica, 180km)
This tough trek traverses the French
island of Corsica, going north to south
through mountains with refuge huts.
2 Haute Route
(FranceSwitzerland, 180km)
Alpine trail that doubles as arather epic
cross-country winter ski route between
Chamonix and Zermatt (pictured).
3 Camino de Santiago
(FranceSpain, 778km)
This pilgrimage trail has many routes,
0 15km
Abisko
Abiskojaure
Alesjaure
Tjaktja
Salka
Tarfala
Kebnekaise
Singi
Nikkaluokta
fabric with ventilation zips to regulate
yourtemperature while walking, plus
articulated knees to aid movement.
Theauthor used Fjllrven Keb trousers.
Top: You will need a warm layer next to
your skin on the colder days, with good
wicking (toremove sweat) a necessity.
Theauthor used aBuffalo Mountain Shirt.
Rucksack: Again, water resistance, comfort
and a relatively light weight are vital here.
The author used an Osprey 68l pack.
Tent: A lightweight one-person tent (about
1.6kg) is a must, but it must also be able to
stand blustery conditions. The author
used aFjllrven Abisko Lite 1 tent.
Sleeping bag: Summer nights can drop to
510C; you will need something warm
but highly compactible and light. The
author used a Fjllrven Move In Bag.
all culminating at Spains Santiago de
Compostela. But the classic Way of
StJames walk starts in the Pyrenees.
4 Via Alta 1 (Italy, 120km)
A ten-day adventure in the Dolomites
that features some hair-raising altitude
hiking between Dobbiaco and Belluno.
5 West Highland Way
(Scotland 154km)
Scotlands popular long-distance yomp
between Milngavie and Fort William skirts
stunning lochs and ends near Ben Nevis.
NO
SW RWA
ED Y
EN
3
Kiruna
STOCKHOLM
Wanderlust April 2017 | 89
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Voyage Beyond Expectation

 Xtra

THE WINNERS
The best in travel according to the people who really put in
the legwork you. These are the airlines, companies and
destinations that made your year another one to remember

Wanderlust Xtra
Xtra Gives You More!
Scan where you see the Wanderlust Xtra
icon to reveal more information
on each award winner

TOP COUNTRY:
NEW ZEALAND
New Zealands trademark combo of mountain
scenery, whalewatching, giant glaciers, water-
streaked fjords and sulphur-rich volcanic lands
proves irresistible to you once again.
Thankfully, its a country that more than bears
repeat visits, with avast range of experiences
tobe had. Spy dolphins while cruising majestic
Milford Sound, listen to the creak of the Franz
Josef glacier, spot kiwi birds by moonlight on
Stewart Island and ascend Mount Cook in the
footsteps of Edmund Hillary. The options are
endless andincreasing, with the launch last
year of theMount Taranaki Pouakai Crossing,
torival New Zealands already world-famous
Tongariro day walk. As such, itsdone the
unthinkable and strengthened its grip on this
title with anear-perfect score some good
news following thetragic earthquake that
hit both the Northand South Islands in
November 2016.
Botswana runs New Zealand the closest
its wildlife-rich parks, surprisingly diverse
Kalahari Desert and the watery wonders of
the Okavango Delta are still ahuge draw.
Meanwhile, the new direct flights from London
to Lima that launched last May have given
aboost to Peru, judging by its third-placed
finish (up one place from last year), with Inca
Trail permit limits clearly not dampening your
enthusiasm. Overcrowding isnt an issue (yet)
for Iceland, as it pops up in fourth, while Sri
Lanka appears to be finally emerging from
theshadow of its long civil war and 2004
tsunami, nabbing eighth spot. Regulars
Burma (Myanmar) and Vietnam return to
complete a familiar-yet-new line-up.
Interestingly, if Antarctica (not surprising,
really) or humble Guernsey were countries,
they would have nabbed the crown this year.

RANKING %
1 New Zealand 99.69%
2 Botswana 97.93%
3 Peru 96.92%
4 Iceland 96.67%
5 Japan 96.00%
6 Burma/Myanmar 95.71%
7 Vietnam 95.56%
8 Sri Lanka 95.34%
9 Namibia 95.19%
10 Kenya 95.00%
 TOP EQUIPMENT BRAND: PRAMO
Masters of water resistant technology in
jackets and trousers, Pramos rain-repelling Xtra
apparel is your champ when it comes to
outdoor wear for the second year in a row.
Butthe rest of the top ten makes for just as
interesting reading. While Rab finishes in the
top two yet again, serial finalists Berghaus, The
North Face, Jack Wolfskin and Salomon all miss
out this year. Instead, theyre replaced by some
fresh brands on the block and some reappearing
favourites, with Osprey, Sherpa, Smartwool
and Pacsafe making up the chasing pack.

RANKING %
1 Pramo 90.74%
2 Rab 90.62%
3 Osprey 90.54%
4 Sherpa Adventure Gear 89.09%
5 Patagonia 87.83%
6 Arcteryx 87.73%
7 Rohan 86.59%
8 Smartwool 86.36%
9 KEEN 86.02%
10 Pacsafe 85.81%

TOP TV
OR RADIO
PROGRAMME:
JOANNA
LUMLEYS
JAPAN
The ever-busy, ever-popular Simon Reeves
four-year reign at the top of this list has
come to an end. But who better to usurp
the new Palin than the absolutely fabulous
(pun intended) Joanna Lumley, whose
travels around Japan had you hooked.
Elsewhere, Michael Portillo makes
a triumphant return tothe rails, while
newcomer Richard Ayoades fresh, funny
take on popular city breaks seems to
have really struck a chord with you, too.
Previous page: Alamy This Spread: 4Corners; ITV/ Burning Bright Produciton; Paramo

RANKING
1 Joanna Lumleys Japan
2 Great Continental Railways Journeys
3 Greece with Simon Reeve
4 Travel Man: 48 Hours In...
5 Planet Earth II
6 Walking the Himalayas
7 Rick Steins Long Weekends
8 Coast
9 New Lives in the Wild
10 Arctic Live


Wanderlust April 2017 | 93

THANK YOU!

A big thank you to all

who voted for us to win
Wanderlusts Top Tour
Operator in 2017. NEW
Mens Velez Jacket
Please get in touch when 275
planning your next tailor-
made tour of the Far East. Athletic cut
with excellent
articulation
020 7720 9285 | info@bambootravel.co.u k

Adjustable
www.bambootravel.co.uk ventilation

Lightweight
with enhanced
weather
protection

FREEDOM
TO MOVE
The NEW Pramo Velez Jacket has been created for
very active people who enjoy a wide range of outdoor
activities. Its versatile, innovative design is combined with
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The unique directional Nikwax Analogy
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weathers, and manages condensation better
than any membrane.

Functional design details such as adjustable ventilation

and articulated sleeves keep you cool or warm AND dry
and give you the freedom to move, whether on a bike in
the city or on foot or a pair of skis in the mountains.

Discover more at www.paramo.co.uk/velez

EXTEND YOUR COMFORT ZONE

 
TOP AIRLINE: SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Seeing Singapore Airlines top our table asyour
favourite airline has fast become afamiliar sight.
After playing runner-up to Emirates in last
yearsawards, normal service has beenresumed.
And nor are theyresting ontheir laurels, it seems,
withthe addition of new first-class cabin suites
due to be introduced to their A380planes later
this year. Meanwhile, Australian airline Qantas
is also riding highabove a raft of Asian
carriers, afterrecently announcing that
it is set to launch the first non-stop flight
from the UK to Perth, Australia, in 2018.

RANKING %
1 Singapore Airlines 92.48%
2 Emirates Airline 91.58%
3 Air New Zealand 88.28%
4 Etihad Airways 87.72%
5 Cathay Pacific 87.56%
6 Qantas 86.43%
7 Swiss International Air Lines AG 86.32%
8 Qatar Airways 86.23%
9 Thai Airways International 86.04%
10 Malaysia Airlines 85.00%
Xtra

TOP EMERGING
DESTINATION:
RWANDA
For anyone who recalls the 1994 Rwandan
genocide, it can be difficult to imagine how
the country could ever recover. But Rwanda is
now moving forward and making its mark on
the travel world, thanks in part to its
remarkable wildlife. And youve clearly
liked what youve seen indeed, progress
is writ large here, and while it is still best
known for its mountain gorillas, other
wildlife is now taking centre stage. Akagera
National Park reintroduced lions to Rwanda
last year after a15-year absence, and there
are plans to restore its black rhino
population, making the park a Big Five
destination once again. Good news all round.
Elsewhere, Bolivia makes the list for the
third year running, while Bhutan, Nicaragua
and Georgia show there are still hidden
treasures on all continents of the globe.

RANKING %
1 Rwanda 97.14%
2 Bhutan 96.92%
3 Bolivia 95.00%
Dale Morris, Dreamstime

4 Georgia 94.00%
5 Nicaragua 93.30%


Wanderlust April 2017 | 95

 Reader Travel Awards


TOP CITY: KYOTO

Kimono-clad geishas. Ancient shrines. As ever, youre a well-travelled bunch,
Peaceful temples. Intricately manicured having visited a staggering 830 cities, from
gardens. Kyoto offers a perfect glimpse into Aachen to Zurich, with the most-visited
Japans fabled past and a delightful flip-side locations being Cape Town, London, Cusco,
to the ultra-modern streets of the countrys Hanoi and New York City. Keep on travelling.
futuristic cities. And it appears you, too, were
taken by its charms, voting it your top city. RANKING %
Surprisingly, the top dogs ofthe past few 1 Kyoto 96.47%
years, Bagan and Luang Prabang, dont 2 Istanbul 96.36%
feature at all. Taking their place are some 3 Hoi An 95.33%
newnames, including up-and-coming 4 Cusco 94.67%
StPetersburg and architectural haven 5 St Petersburg 94.48%
Budapest, while history-steeped Edinburgh =6 Boston 93.94%
flies the flag for the UK. It is also heart- =6 Budapest 93.94%
warming to see runner-up Istanbul receive 8 Cape Town 93.67%
some good news, after seeing it hit headlines =9 Edinburgh 93.57%
for allthe wrong reasons over the past year. =9 Krakow 93.57%

Xtra

TOP
GUIDEBOOK
SERIES:
DK EYEWITNESS
TRAVEL
After two years as a runner-up, it seems 20-plus
years of experience and some beautifully crafted
illustrations have finally paid dividends for this
years winner, DK Eyewitness Travel. And to add
even more meat to analready fineguide, it has
started to introduce downloadable, anecdote-
laced audio tours to its range of destinations.
From the best of the rest, your favourites are
still all there just in a different order. Its good
to see Marco Polo, who help us with our regular
Travel Icon feature (see p133), break into the
top ten for the first time as well.

RANKING %
1 DK Eyewitness Travel 85.95%
2 Bradt 83.41%
3 Cicerone 82.88%
4 Lonely Planet 82.69%
5 Insight Guides 81.60%
6 Footprint 79.13%
7 Rough Guides 78.82%
8 Time Out 73.95%
9 Marco Polo 73.41%
10 Trailblazer 73.04%

96 | Wanderlust April 2017

 TOP TOUR
OPERATOR:
BAMBOO TRAVEL
Wow, theres no arguing with who the
winner is:Bamboo Travel clearly
impressed you, scoring aperfect 100%
satisfaction rating and retaining its
crown. However, its not just them; everyone has
upped their game, with third-placed Holiday
Architects score of 99.57% enough to take the
title in each of the previous two years. Runner-up
Selective Asia also scored an impressive 99.71%,
a lovely late birthday gift from you, as it
celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2016. Youre not
afraid to take a trip with new tour operators,
either, having travelled with over 480 companies.

RANKING %
1 Bamboo Travel 100% Xtra

2 Selective Asia 99.71%

3 Holiday Architects 99.57%
4 Llama Travel 98.86%
5 Audley Travel 97.63%
6 Wild Frontiers 97.53%
7 Wexas Travel 96.65%
8 KE Adventure Travel 96.25%
9 HF Holidays 96.12%
10 Discover the World 93.91%

TOP WORLDWIDE AIRPORT: Changi is your favourite airport yet again,

SINGAPORE CHANGI and no-one hascome close to taking its crown.

Its little wonder: with its tropical flora, a free
24-hour cinema, fine restaurants and a big
dollop of hospitality, the complex is like a city,
nature reserve and hotel in one. Hong Kong is
Changis nearest challenger once more, but
its interesting that Dohas newest airport,
Hamad, has made such a winning impression
on you, after only opening in 2014. Elsewhere,
Amsterdam makes the list again, but for how
long? WithEurostar planning to open a direct
trainlink from London to the Dutch capital
later in 2017 (though this has been pushed
back afew times already), many may opt now
toswitch from the skies to the rails.

RANKING %
1 Singapore Changi 93.94%
2 Hong Kong International 88.71%
3 Zrich 85.56%
4 Hamad International (Doha) 85.52%
5 Amsterdam Schipol 85.05%
6 Oslo 84.44%
7 Auckland 83.68%
8 Chhatrapati Shivaji
International (Mumbai) 83.33%
9 Dubai International 81.69%
10 Geneva 81.21%
Dreamstime

Wanderlust April 2017 | 97


TOP UK AIRPORT:
LONDON CITY

Theres no change at the top of the UK airport

tree. In fact, London City has strengthened RANKING %
itsposition at the summit just reward after 1 London City 87.14%
postingits busiest-ever year in 2016, with 4.5m 2 Southampton 84.55%
passengers flooding through its gates. It can even 3 Bristol 80.78%
now lay claim to being the only airport actually in 4 Birmingham 80.34%
London after advertising watchdogs upheld 5 Edinburgh 78.52%
acheeky radio campaign centred around its 6 London Heathrow 78.20%
capital postcode something none of its near 7 Liverpool (John Lennon) 78.07%
rivals can boast. Liverpool also saw asimilarly 8 Glasgow 77.41%
successful 2016, with more passengers (4.8m) 9 Manchester 77.05%
passing through its gates than in the last five 10 London Gatwick 74.49%
years, while Glasgow also returns to the list
togiveScotland two representatives once again.

THE
WANDERLUST
TRAVEL ICON
OF THE YEAR:
STANFORDS

Travel is full of icons, but theyre not all

much-visited sites and cities. Theyre also the
unsung people, places and companies who
inspire and facilitate the greatest travel
experiences around. This is why weve created
the Wanderlust Travel Icon award, which this
year goes to Stanfords, a booksellers that has
been providing books, maps and inspiration to
explorers and armchair travellers alike for 164
years. With acustomer roll call that includes
everyone from Captain Scott to Ranulph Fiennes
at its flagship London store, it has launched
countless adventures and long may it continue.

TOP UK Well, it looks like Wales Year of

HOW THE CATEGORIES
WERE SCORED
DESTINATION: Adventure 2016 went down well with The Wanderlust Reader Travel Awards were
SNOWDONIA you, our active and intrepid readers,
with the mighty Snowdonia and
based on your travels from December 2015
toNovember 2016. Inmany categories you
Pembrokeshire both knocking the Lakes were asked to list up to four entries and
scoreeach one onits merits.
RANKING % off its usual top spot. Snowdonia isnt The results were based on an average
1 Snowdonia 95.71% just about weatherbeaten landscapes, score(converted to a percentage) so results
2 Pembrokeshire 94.84% either; its recently awarded status as are based on satisfaction rather than the
3 Lake District 93.64% adark sky reserve means its ideal for number ofvotes. In categories where no
percentage isshown, the results were simply
4 Northumberland 93.19% gazing skyward, too. Elsewhere, London
based on thenumberof votes counted.
5 Cambridge 92.12% (runner-up in 2015 and 2016) drops off Thanks to... The Money Shop for providing
6 Scottish Highlands 91.82% the list altogether, while you proved the aprize of 250 in a foreign currency of the
7 Edinburgh 91.77% UK is always full of new (or rediscovered) winners choice to one lucky individual who
8 Dartmoor 91.43% wonders, with the rugged wilds of voted in ourreader survey competition. Thanks
also toeveryone who took the time to share
9 Peak District 91.03% Dartmoor and the more genteel lanes
Alamy; Dreamstime

their travel highs and lows with us, to help give

10 Cornwall 90.99% ofCambridge new to this years top ten. atruepicture of what travellers really think.

Wanderlust April 2017 | 99

 G O I N G

More people than ever before are choosing to explore on their own.
Read on for our tips, trips, trails and trials in our solo traveller special,
beginning with Sandra Reekie, who regularly leaves behind
a husband, two daughters and six grandkids for the open road
Solo Travel
Y
Solo Travel
ou will never see a sky as beautiful as the sun
rising over the Himalayas from Darjeeling,
my father said with an unaccustomed hint of
nostalgia in his voice. I was five years old and
we were sitting atop a hill watching the sun
go down over the Essex town where we lived.
From that moment, that exact moment,
I longed to see that sunrise for myself and
visit Agra, where my grandfather was
stationed with the army when dad was born.
But it took me a while. Fifty years later, my
daughter and I travelled independently to
Life isnt a rehearsal, and looking back over my life I now
realise that whenever I made myself do something that scared
me, it always turned out to be the best experience ever
India, and we did indeed see that sunrise and
Agra. A nine-week trip with my daughter
made me realise that it was possible to find
your own hotels, discover whats down that
small and interesting-looking road the tour
guide walks you past and, most importantly
of all, learn just how incredibly friendly and
kind people are to a stranger. The travel bug
had bitten, and bitten hard.
Solo steps
The following year I had a close call with
cancer and, when I didnt die within the
predicted year, I resolved to go back to India.
No-one would or could come with me so,
pig-headedly, I said Id go on my own. It was
an easy thing to say, but could I really go
alone? Really on my own? After Id said
goodbye to my husband at Heathrow, I went
into the ladies and sobbed. What was I doing?
I had never travelled on my own. When we
went abroad on holiday I had never even used
the foreign currency I was petrified. So I had
cheated a little and booked the first ten days
with a small group adventure travel
company to help me get over my initial
nerves. We spent those first ten days
102 | Wanderlust April 2017
travelling to Kochi, Mysore and Ootacamund;
then I said goodbye and headed alone for
the railway station in Bangalore to catch
the overnight train to Hampi.
This fascinating historical site, set in a
strange and beautiful, boulder-strewn
landscape, was the perfect place for me to
explore for the first time completely on my
own. Each day my confidence grew and with it
my sense of awareness and safety. What was I
doing? Was it respectful? A deserted restaurant
was probably not as safe as a full one. I learned
to trust my gut feeling when it came to judging
people. I found that all these long-buried
skills, which we all possess, were slowly
getting stronger. And before I left there, Id
even found myself in a Bollywood movie.
I needed to travel north, but I wanted
to see Panaji, the capital of Goa, and for
the first time caught an overnight bus.
Imagine a double decker painted bright
yellow, with homemade reclining seats.
I was allocated a window seat that reclined
so far back my feet were above my head.
Next to me sat an enormous, bald German
man whose bulk spread from his recliner
on to mine. As we rattled our way along the
bumpy Indian roads in the pitch black, any
comfort stops were made at the side of the
road and each time at least one person
came back with cuts and grazes, having
fallen down a ditch. But we made it to Goa.
Those who had the top deck fared best, as
most were enjoying some happy baccy,
but I had a new German friend.
From Goa I found my way by bus, train, taxi
and rickshaw to the ancient caves at Ellora
and also to those at Ajanta. At the Ajanta
Caves I was adopted by a taxi driver who
decided that, as I was older than his mother,
I needed looking after. I suspiciously thought
he just wanted to overcharge me for each
ride, but how wrong I was. It was another
lesson learned to trust my own judgement
and not go by the alarmist stories you hear.
I was so proud of myself. I had not only
achieved my first trip alone, but had managed
all my travel arrangements, even come to
grips with the bureaucratic purchasing of
train tickets and, finally, with just two days
before my return flight, made it to Mumbai,
arriving in the early hours at that wonderful
carved stone-and-marble railway station six
weeks after setting out. Boy, did I feel good!
Beyond boundaries
I subsequently returned to India on several
occasions, sometimes alone, sometimes not.
I also travelled along the Silk Road starting
in Istanbul, I crossed Turkey, Syria, Iran and
Turkmenistan with its bizarre capital,
Ashgabat; then travelled on to Uzbekistan,
Tajikistan and China where I visited the
largest Silk Road market in the world at
Kashgar, before crossing into Pakistan at the
highest paved border crossing in the world.
I made many friends along the way.
Sometimes I joined up with people who were
going my way for a few days or a week or two,
such as the young man with whom I shared
the hire of a car to cross the Pamir Mountains.
I have wonderful memories of many people
the Sikh man who, without my knowing, kept
an eye on me during a three-hour wait at an
Indian railway station and who, when I nearly
boarded the wrong train, gently took my arm
and shook his head; the lady on a bus journey
in Iran who planted a large bag of sweets on
my lap; and the student in Syria who waited
20 minutes with me to ensure I caught the
right bus and that the driver knew where to
let me off. I have a well of such memories.
In northern Pakistan I met a young jeep
driver. The following year I returned to live
with his extended family for a month,
teaching at the local school, before taking
two months to travel through every valley
between Afghanistan and Kashmir.
We all know old sayings like, Life isnt a
rehearsal, and looking back I now realise that
whenever I made myself do something that
scared me, it always turned out to be the
best experience ever. Travelling alone is one.
I cant deny it can be lonely, but travelling
with the wrong person is far, far worse. After
years of being a daughter, wife, mother and
granny, I am now me. If people arent going
my way, I know I can happily go on my own.
At 73 I must confess that its time to retire
my beloved rucksack and get something
on wheels, but so long as I have a good
guidebook and a water heater to make a cup
of coffee, theres nothing that can stop me.
For more inspiring tales from solo
travellers including Phoebe Smith,
Hilary Bradt and the Sandra Reekie
story excerpted here get Roam
Alone (Bradt, 11), out on 5 April.
 Solo Travel

Solo sights
Wandering UNESCO-

Reader offer listed Hampi (in

Karnataka, India), the
capital of the Hindu
Bradt Travel Guides is offering kingdom of Vijayanagar
Wanderlust readers a special 25% between the 14th
discount on copies of Roam Alone. To and 16th centuries
claim your discount, purchase the
book at www.bradtguides.com and
enter code ROAMALONE25 at
checkout. Offer valid until
31 August 2017.
Previous page and this Getty

Wanderlust April 2017 | 103

 UNMAPPED COOL
R OA D S NIGHTS

SHADED WA R M
PAT H S SMILES

T H E WO R L D BY
WILD FRONTIERS

WILDFRONTIERSTRAVEL.COM
020 8741 7390

Making the world a

better place is easy
All you have to do is have the time of your life.

0844 272 2230

gadventurers.co.uk

Singled out
Specialist tours are a great way for solo travellers to meet people and do
something special, so here are our top tips for planning your next trip
Safaris
Spending hours cramped in small 4WDs on
safari often results in some intense
camaraderie. But whether tracking through
the bush together or recalling that skipped
heartbeat when you saw your first lion, its
this shared experience that results in easy
conversation and fewer barriers over dinner.
Indeed, the evening meal, in particular, is
what makes safari tours ideal for solo
travellers in the smaller camps they
typically take place at a communal table,
meaning everyone chips in and gets to know
each other fast.
TOP TIP: Try to avoid the plusher lodges
and camps, which tend to be more
popular with both newlyweds and couples
looking for intimacy rather than new friends.
By rail
Train tours are the perfect answer to the
typical single supplement dilemma. Many
sleeper trains have cabins for single use,
and for those sharing, it can often feel
less intrusive to split a cabin than, say,
a hotel room. Clearly the tour ops have
caught on, as train travel accounts for
Dreamstime
a large number of solo-only trips, while
Together alone
A small group safari is
a great way to bond
solo travellers together
the lounge car often affords a chance to not
only regularly touch base socially with your
group, but others outside it, too.
TOP TIP: Many sleeper trains offer single
cabins for the same price per person as
doubles (Orient Express, Royal Scotsman,
etc). Its worth checking beforehand if you
want to avoid single supplements.
Cruises
A boat trip isnt all ballrooms and
cabaret. Expedition cruises into far-off
(often Arctic or Antarctic) waters and
specialist multi-day river trips can deliver
you to lost worlds. Whether youre
ploughing the lesser-seen waters of the
Peruvian Amazon or setting sail for
Arctic Russia to spy mammoth bones
and polar bears on Wrangel Island,
these trips tend to attract a mix of
travellers; the communal dining is
a great way to meet others, with ships
often holding around 100 passengers.
TOP TIP: If seating is allocated at meal times,
its worth finding out from the tour company
how many other solo travellers there are
and whether you can be seated together.
Solo Travel
All by myself
Travelling solo can be a liberating
experience, but only if you approach
it in the right way. Here are some tips on
how to stay safe, eat alone, meet others
and, above all, have fun
Eating alone can be a worry for those
travelling solo. But it neednt be. Bring
something practical to do, such as filling
in a diary or checking your emails
something you dont mind being
distracted from. And dont let the waiter
shut you away in a corner; a spot in the
midst of things affords better people-
watching, while sitting at a bar or
counter allows others to join you and
frees you up to talk to the staff, who
usually have some good local tips.
Stay safe. It is not uncommon for
solo travellers (women in particular)
to be targeted by scammers, but just
appearing confident can go a long way
to avoiding this. For instance, clutching
a guidebook wherever you go is a dead
giveaway that youre fresh off the
boat and by yourself; read up in
advance or disguise the guide, and
even prepare ready-made excuses
(My friend will be joining me here in
a minute) in case of unwanted
attention. Just be sensible: dont arrive
in strange places (airports, railway
stations) late at night, or at least have
someone meet you. Also, let others know
where you are going and use online
travel communities to check out a place
in advance or to make local contacts.
Be open to new experiences. Travel
light, so youre free to move about
without the hassle of lots of luggage,
leaving you open to change your plans at
a moments notice. And talk to people
most other tourists are just as friendly
as you are, and fellow solo travellers
can often offer valuable advice.
Homesteads and family-run B&Bs can
help you meet the locals, while picking
a small, friendly hotel (as opposed to
a large chain) with a communal area
opens you up to other travellers. There
are also some incredible hostel
experiences out there, but dont feel
like you have to pair off; if you want time
to yourself, give yourself that option.
Wanderlust April 2017 | 105

Choose a trip that suits you. If youre
travelling independently and solo for
the first time, make it easy on yourself
by picking a destination thats simple
to navigate, whether it be in your own
country or simply a more compact city,
or even just somewhere you already
speak the language. Consider tailoring
your trip to something youre familiar
with or comfortable doing: for example,
if youre a keen cyclist, pick a cycle-
friendly location that you can easily
explore on two wheels and feel at ease.
Going with a tour operator has
benefits: firstly, it offers you ready-made
companions with similar interests,
especially if you choose a themed trip
(see Special Interest info, right). But
plenty of operators now also specialise
in catering for those travelling alone,
which helps alleviate the main bugbear
of going solo in a tour group single
supplements (fees passed down via
hotels for single occupancy of a double
room). But being prepared to share
a room or simply going during low
season can often help you avoid these.

Common sense gets around a lot of
problems. If you have to dump your bag
on public transport, wedging it into an
awkward spot will make it more difficult
for others to take. If you hate selfie
sticks but still want to capture your
travels, find someone with a better
camera than yours and ask them to
take the shot theyre less likely to steal
your inferior gear and might even be
able to frame it properly too. And lastly,
if youre nervous about
being alone at
night, take a
doorstop with
you to wedge under
the door youll feel
more at ease after
a peaceful slumber.
106 | Wanderlust April 2017
Overlanding
By the very nature of overland trips, which
typically span weeks (even months) of
travel in the confines of large trucks, they
commonly see more solo travellers than
most after all, arranging schedules
around an extended break is trickier for
two than for one. Trips often clatter
around areas with little infrastructure,
such as slipping between Tajikistan and
Pakistan along the Wakhan Corridor or
through wild Patagonia, so it makes sense
to go with a tour, which eliminates the
hassles of arranging multiple border
crossings and breakdowns. Groups rarely
exceed much more than 20 passengers,
but spending large amounts of time in
close quarters can forge close bonds at
fast-forward speeds.
TOP TIP: Trips can last as long as six months,
with the option to join for just a few weeks.
Develop lifelong bonds fast, then get dropped
off somewhere incredible. Its win-win.
Getting active
Trekking, kayaking and cycling tours are
ideal for those going it alone. They can, of
course, be done independently, but the
safety of doing so in a group (particularly
in remote areas) makes going on an
organised trip a safer choice. It also
affords the opportunity to explore those
Gentle progress
Plenty of small group
tour operators are now
catering towards solo
travellers needs
places tricky to reach on your own,
whether being heli-lifted onto a
mountainside or embarking on a multi-
week trek where the logistics of planning
each stop in advance and lugging food
and gear can quickly build up.
Special interest
Not wishing to invoke too many clichs
(birds of a feather and all that), but if you
travel solo and want to meet like-minded
people, then a themed trip makes sense.
Such tours are naturally geared towards
those going it alone after all, how many
couples do you know share the same passion
for learning Swahili, tropical birding or
historical watercolours? It also breaks down
social barriers pretty fast when you all share
a common topic. And then theres the trip
itself, which can find you doing anything
from spotting toucans deep in the Brazilian
Pantanal to photographing red deer in the
Scottish Highlands.
TOP TIP: More so than perhaps any other
trip, meeting fellow solo travellers is
a gimme with special interest trips. Just try
not to be the know-it-all theres always
one in every group!
MORE ONLINE
Alamy, Dreamstime
Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/175 for
more articles about going on a solo adventure
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T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E
 FROM
THE
ROAD
Letters, tips, photos & exploits from you, our endlessly adventurous readers

A
s I shuffled to the edge of
thewooden platform and
squinted apprehensively
upat the alluring Himalayan
peak, I was distracted by
afriendly, toothless grin. There stood
theNepalese woman who had just sold me
arestorative Coca-Cola. Her encouraging
nod gently willed me to carry on, but an
arduous hike up a steep incline awaited.
This was hiking with a purpose, though:
todeliver medicine to the Tibetan refugee
camps that scattered the foothills of the
Himalaya. Butwhile the trail I followed was
well worn, thousands of years of footsteps
had made it no less difficult, and Iwinced,
envious of the sherpas who skipped ahead
easily in their bare feet. They bore the
weight of heavy baskets strapped across
their heads as if they were mere sweat
bands. I, meanwhile, ignored the cramps
inmy stomach a bad choice atdinner
somedays earlier now causing me to
question my own abilities. But the task was
large and we had a schedule to keep. I was
not dying after all or so they told me.
The landscape and the people were our
reward. Clouds carelessly spattered across
the horizon, supporting ethereal peaks
above and casting slices of shadow
overthemulti-toned brown folds in the
earthbelow. Tiny ancient houses clung
desperately to the slopes, regardless of the
steep drops, while donkeys wandered the

Yo u r S t o r y

Stagger the line

Winner of our Active
Challenge online writing
competition, Caroline Nye
recalls trekking in supplies
for Nepalese refugees
Getty

108 | Wanderlust April 2017


narrow trails unperturbed. From one
inspiring refugee camp to the next, our
journey brought us into contact with some
fascinating individuals. The lines in their
faces seemed to map the many hardships
they endured in order to find themselves
here. Their faithful optimism quelled my
own fears and helped to push me up each
mountainside as my energy levels ebbed.
Each day was no different. The view from
the slow path to Muktinath captivated me
like a visual drug. As soon as it entered my
line of vision, it gripped hold of my heart
and left me feeling bare and insignificant
within its vastness. Even the sherpas, who
had been here many times before, grew
quiet and stared respectfully out over
thevalley. It took genuine willpower
justtorefocus on the path ahead.
Beginning to struggle, I remembered
anelderly Tibetan woman who Id met days
earlier in one of the camps. She explained
to me how she had left the country she
loved to come to Nepal in search ofsafety,
walking for days over mountaintops in
violent weather, trekking over treacherous
terrain in only the simplest of footwear.
At night, the image of her kind, forgiving
face carried me upwards to my awaiting
tent. As I tossed and turned that evening,
itwasnt the rumbling of mystomach that
kept me awake,but the thought that the
majority who suffered in this way couldnt
comfort themselves with the knowledge
that they would soon return to asafe bed
inastable country. This hike had opened
my eyes in more ways than one.
Yo u r S t o r y
Uphill battle
Reader Tim Ashdown
conquers more than just
the mountains of Vietnam,
as he battles back from
alife-threatening injury
evening was starting to close in. Looking
T
he day it happened will always
be ingrained in my mind. I stood
next to my new motorcycle and
started the engine, watching it
rumble into life. Then, with
themost gratifying of growls, Iset off
andlost myself for hours amid winding
country roads. It was then that I heard the
sound of grinding metal something was
wrong. My rear wheel locked and I was
thrown off, tumbling down a bank. Unable
to move and consumed by pain, I lost all
sense of time and everything went black.
Weeks passed by in a blur of white coats,
operating theatres and morphine-induced
stupors. Eventually I awoke long enough
tocomprehend the following devastating
words: Youvebroken your spine. Im afraid walk again. Backpacking around the world
youll never walk again. I was crushed.
Fast-forward four-and-a-half years and
Iwas sat atop a mountain in Sapa, Vietnam,
telling this same story to 13 new friends.
Thetrail up the peak had been a struggle for
everyone. People were falling over due to the
steep slopes and ankle-deep mud. I walked at
From The Road
the very back for the first hour, the weakness
in my legs (as a result of the accident) causing
me tostumble over the rough terrain. But
Iplodded on, gripping my hiking staff and
grateful that Id remembered myknee brace,
as the group slowed to encourage me along.
I quickly lost count of the amount of
timesthat I slipped down the muddy slopes
and into freezing puddles. My legs screamed
with every step, and in the cold mountain
climate Icouldnt stop shivering. Every fibre
of my being wanted to quit, and Ihad totell
myself over and over that I could do it.
I expected this to be easy, grumbled one
companion between increasingly shallow
breaths. A chorus of mumbled agreements
sprang up. We had walked all day and the
around, I noticed that everyone seemed to
beflagging now. At least it distracted me
from my own discomfort, and I returned
their earlier help by urging them on. The
simple act of being able to support the group
gave me ahuge boost, and for the first time in
years I was no longer slowing people down
instead, I was able to keep them moving.
Out of nowhere, a small village sprung up
out of the mist. Within minutes we were sat
around a table, beers in hand. It was only
then that someone asked about my hiking
staff and leg brace. In stunned silence, they
listened to me field the same questions
countless others had asked: why take on the
hike, the pain and the mental battle?
The answer was simple: why not? I had
survived an accident that, by all rights,
should have killed me, and had spent the
previous four years battling to get my life
back. I had beaten the odds and learnt to
might be a thrilling experience for most
people, but for me, it felt especially precious
because I had very nearly lost the chance.
This was an entry in our regular online writing
competition. Keep an eye out for the next one
atwanderlust.co.uk/mywanderlust
Wanderlust April 2017 | 109
 Readers Pictures

YOUR
PHOTOS
Been somewhere beautiful? Done something amazing?
Email fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk make us jealous!

Admiring the views in one

of Europes most intriguing
cities, Sarajevo.
Emma Nichols

Gracefully making my Catching an early ferry from

way to the top of Sulphur Tallinn, Helsinki, in sub-zero
Mountain, Canada. temperatures. Brrrrrrr!
Caroline Ayrton Dean, Amy & India-Rose Hart

110 | Wanderlust April 2017

 From The Road

Living it up in Bagan,
Burma (Myanmar)
literally! Its tremendous
to see the temples from
a hot air balloon!
Karen ONeill

Where does your

Wanderlust take you?
Every month we ask, Where does your
Wanderlust take you?, giving you a chance
towina goody bag including a versatile
100%Merino Wool Buff the ultimate travel
accessory (from 22 RRP). But can you top
Karen(above)? Showuswhere your Wanderlust
takesyou andwhere you take your Wanderlust!
Take your magazine with you on your next trip
and share a pic with us. Post it on our Facebook
wall, tweet it to us at @wanderlustmag, email it
to fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk or hashtag
Spending Christmas it#wanderlustmag on Instagram.
in Reykjavik, Iceland.
We even saw the
northern lights!
Sam & Richard Green

Reaching the top of Enjoying the otherworldly

Mount Nyiragongo, DR Congo, peace of Jordans Wadi Rum
wearing some alternative gear. desert on New Years Day.
Nadia Hussain Adele Muscat

Wanderlust April 2017 | 111

 LETTERS
Your mail and missives: this issue, circumnavigating the planet by
train, treading your favourite trails and seeking out lush city gardens

 Wonder walks STAR LETTER

After reading about the
Camino de Santiago [Walk
ThisWay, March 2017, issue
174], I was inspired to share
some of my favourite walks.
Our very own British coast-to-
coast is superb. Its a 300-odd
kilometre walk that takes in the
best of North England: starting
with the Irish Sea at St Bees in
Cumbria, then heading over
the Roof of England before
dropping down into one of
Englands most charming
fishing villages Robin Hoods
Bay. If you run it or route-march
it, you can complete it in a
handful of days, but if you want
to linger in the Lake District or
Yorkshire villages, youll need
two, or even better, three weeks.
Helen Moat, via website
Worldy train travel
After reading about the
Trans-Siberian train journey
[Trans-Siberia: The Wrong Way
Round, Nov 2016, issue 171], I
wanted to share our adventure,
where we travelled as far as we
could by train. We started in
Exeter and, seven weeks and 17
trains later, arrived in Ho Chi
Minh City, Vietnam. We travelled
via Belgium, Germany, Poland,
Belarus, Russia, Mongolia,
China, with a side jaunt by ferry
to Taiwan, and down through
Vietnam! You meet so many
fascinating people and see so
much more along the way.
I cant wait to plan the next trip!
Debra Travers, via email

After your piece on the Camino
de Santiago [March 2017, issue
174], here are my top walks. My
favourite far-flung treks have
been The Arctic Circle Trail in
Greenland and also Thorsmork-
to-Skogar in Iceland, which has
snow, scrambles, volcanoes and
waterfalls. Closer to home The
Great Eastern Pingo trail is ace,
theres a nice route around the
Pickenhams in Norfolk, while in
Wales theres the Aberglaslyn
Gorge walk in Snowdonia.
My favourite organised walk is
the Ridgeway 40 (in May). Ive
done it in all weathers and had
some fantastic disasters. The
first year I didnt get any further
than the epic cake tent at mile
28 and another, very rainy, year
I forgot my walking boots and
had to do it in my school shoes.
Im always in agony for two days
afterward but the cake table at
the finishing line makes up for it.
Emma Halford, via website
Im not much of a hiker too
unfit and as a result, my
favourite walks arent long ones!
I loved walking across the sea
ice, between Devils Island and
Vega Island in Antarctica. One
slightly longer walk that I did
enjoy, was in El Chaltn,
Argentina. The walk up to the
lake was enjoyable in itself, and
brought you out to a stunning
view of Mount Fitzroy.
Tabitha Green, via website
A citys leafy oasis
How often in our travels have we
found ourselves in a big city and
need to take a break from our
hectic adventures? In my view,
theres no better way than to visit
the citys botanic garden. Theres
WIN
no need to be a great flower WANDERLUST
enthusiast; Ive often had great
pleasure in watching the birds
GOODIES
and other wildlife, or by just Each issue, our winning
taking a gentle stroll through the contribution wins a haul
gardens in the sun to enjoy the of Wanderlust gear.
peaceful surroundings. They This time, congratulations
arent full of tourists, theyre to Debra!
rarely crowded and you can
enjoy seeing the locals relaxing
and quietly having a good time.
From Rio to Calcutta, Kuala
Lumpur to Perth, cities all over
the world take pride in
maintaining beautiful gardens.
They are nearly always free, too.
When you need a brief time out
from all your activities, take a
walk in a botanic garden.
Mike Segal, London

112 | Wanderlust April 2017

 From The Road

This month you have

Experiences

JUST BACK
FROM...
Antarctica
Wanderlust forum
user Meg Gotshall
reflects on 21 days
in Antarctica and
South Georgia
The highlight: Completing the
final leg of Shackletons
famous hike to Stromness on
a beautiful day, then landing at
the site of his mens camp at
Point Wild.
Must see: Stop to take in the
surroundings whether its
a snowy mountain, rich sunset
or a lively penguin colony.
Top tip: Leave your expectations
behind. Every aspect of the trip
is weather dependent, so be
ready to enjoy anything.
Cautionary tale: Visiting
Antarctica on a larger expedition
ship requires a lot of waiting
around as groups rotate on
shore its spectacular though.
I wish Id known... How different
the demographics are on different
ships. Its a better experience Thailand and Cambodia in my 60s!
with like-minded travellers.
Anything else? If the wildlife is
the big draw, include South
Georgia in your itinerary. If
youre after icy landscapes, head
straight for the peninsula.
been mostly...
Giving some love to Polands
city breaks. Warsaw is a must
its a shame its overshadowed by
other major cities in Europe.
trevornealhall
Admiring the beauty of
Sagres in Portugal. Its
so pretty there who wouldnt
want to visit?
@travellerAmit
Realising youre never too old it was utterly perfect. @joesredflag
to go on a backpacking trip.
I went on my first solo one to
Julesbebop
Being wowed by Vietnams
spectacular cities. Hoi An is
amazing I was there last October
and loved every minute of it.
Sue Anderson
Using Wanderlust as an
inspirational buffer between
travels. Its the one thing to soften
the blow when I get home from
Myanmar, with Madagascar and
maybe Bhutan on the cards for next
year! Hannah Theobald
Remembering when I rode
the rails in Canada. I took
a train to Qubec a few years ago
Chilling on an Indian beach.
Kuzhupilly was so serene
and enchanting. MeenaB
Enjoying Wanderlusts annual
Travel Photo of the Year
exhibition at the Destinations Show
in London. There were some
wonderful photos many congrats
to the winners! @yumcoconut

PHOTO OF
THE MONTH
Great Wall of China,
Jinshanling, China
Monika Mullen
I couldnt ask for a more
outstanding experience than
an autumnal view of the greatest
wall in the world. A two-hour bus
ride from Beijing dropped us at
the base of the tourist-free
Jinshanling section. The five-hour
hike took us through crumbling
ancient watch towers. Ive always
dreamt of hiking its ruins and the
wild, untouched walls snaking
along mountains. Matched with
the early afternoon sun shining
through the fluffy clouds, it gave
my husband and I magical
memories especially as we had
it to ourselves.
Wanderlust reserves the right to edit letters; Dreamstime

TALK TO US: Online at www.wanderlust.co.uk/mywanderlust Email fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk

Mail Wanderlust, 1 Leworth Place, Windsor, SL4 1EB Twitter @wanderlustmag
Facebook www.facebook.com/wanderlusttravelmagazine Instagram @wanderlustmag
Wanderlust April 2017 | 113
New South Wales Promotional feature

Ultimate Australia
From iconic Sydney to the wild Outback beyond, its time to really discover
New South Wales: the quintessential Australian experience

Now sea here

The stunning blue
waters of Sydney
Harbour are just the
start of New South
Wales and the manifold
delights itcontains

114 | Wanderlust April 2017

W
New South Wales Promotional feature
hen Captain
James Cook
first cast his
eyes along
Australias
unmapped
eastern coast in
1770, the
sandstone cliffs
and rising green hills led him to conjure up
aBritish-influenced name: New Wales, later
to become New South Wales. Fast forward
almost 250 years, however, and the region
has proved itself anything but a facsimile of
the UK. Home to swathes of rainforest,
subtropical beaches, red Outback plains and
perhaps the greatest harbour city on the
planet, Australias aptly nicknamed Premier
State stands as atrue travel icon.
But for travellers, the key gift of New
South Wales is its diversity. Within the
state borders youll find every one of the
key components that makes Australia
such aphenomenal destination: the
surf-swept coastline, the rich Indigenous
heritage, the unique wildlife, the vibrant
urban buzz, the cascading natural
scenery, the heavenly food and wine.
Its little wonder that so many visitors
to the country find themselves here for
weeks at a time, and then still come back
time and time again.
The spectacular state
Sydney is the starting point for most
adventures in New South Wales. A place
apart, this city is fringed with beaches and
blessed with an easy-going, sun-soaked way
of life. Its dramatic focal point is Circular
Quay, where both the Sydney Opera House
and Sydney Harbour Bridge stand, but the
city has a kaleidoscope of different faces,
from its glamorous coastal suburbs and its
bohemian counter-culture to its rainbow
spread of cafes, galleries, museums and bars.
Sydney though is just one port of call along
New South Wales 1,600 kilometres of
coastline, which translates into a vast range
of coastal and aquatic adventures. From
scuba diving, kayaking and clifftop walks to
whalewatching, fishing and surf schools, the
states stunning Pacific shoreline has
outstanding credentials. Gravitate to classic
beach destinations like Byron Bay or Coffs
Harbour, travel out to one of the states
shimmering islands, such as Lord Howe
Island, or discover your own slice of coastal
wilderness on an ocean roadtrip.
But that coastline is just one of New South
Wales landscapes. When you head inland,
youll quickly discover just how exceptionally
kind the gods of the great outdoors have been
to it. The state has close to 900 national
parks, forests and reserves, among them
such gems as the UNESCO-listed Greater
Blue Mountains Area and the Snowy
Mountains, the latter home to mainland
Australias highest peaks. Elsewhere youll
find an extraordinary variety of eucalypt
forests, waterfalls, lush wetlands, rainforests
and wildlife-rich conservation areas.
These are also ideal places to become
better acquainted with Australias furred
and feathered inhabitants, who are as
central to the national character as beach
barbecues and ice-cold beer, and in New
South Wales youll find them in numbers.
Its national parks play host to everything
from wallabies, kangaroos and echidnas
to emus, possums and koalas, while its
water-based wildlife includes seals,
penguins, dolphins and whales. The
birdlife is similarly rich, and the state also
has some first-rate wildlife parks for
up-close encounters with endemic rock
warblers, increasingly endangered regent
honeyeaters and superb fairy-wrens.
A legendary land
Of course, the lands of New South Wales
have been inhabited for tens of thousands
of years, throwing into sharp relief the
relatively recent era of European discovery.
Today no state has more Indigenous
inhabitants, and there are some excellent
options for travellers keen to learn more
about the ancient poetic intricacies of
Aboriginal culture, including guided
walkabout tours through significant
landscapes, age-old galleries of rock art and
a number of dedicated cultural centres,
such as the Minjungbal Aboriginal Cultural
Centre in Tweed Heads Historic Site.
An Aborigine experience is just one reason
to head into the endless expanse of red plain
known as the back OBourke, or back of
beyond the fabled Australian Outback.
Those with the appropriate equipment and
know-how can enjoy its road trip potential,
while the remote town of Broken Hill and
the haunting dunes of Mungo National
Park provide highlights in their own right.
But New South Wales also has less rugged
delights to enjoy. The states food and wine
scene covers everything from globally
lauded city restaurants and serene wine
regions to lively farmers markets and
charming country pubs. Whether youre
after seafood or Shiraz, cheese or chocolate,
craft beer or freshly grilled meats, you wont
be left wanting. The Hunter Valley,
Australias oldest wine region, famed for its
Semillon and Shiraz, is an essential
itinerary inclusion for gourmet travellers.
Its the perfect spot to raise a glass to this
quintessential Australian state.
Wanderlust April 2017 | 115
Sensational Sydney
From its classic skyline to its hip culture to its intrepid wilderness spots,
Sydney really is a whole country in one remarkable city
T
he dazzling centrepiece of
New South Wales, Syndey is
a multicultural metropolis,
an exuberant melting pot of
shiny towers, long beaches
and big, blue skies. If all this
means the locals seem
particularly at ease with their
lot, dont be surprised the state capital was
recently voted the planets friendliest city.
Some places have it tough.
It also enjoys an ideal coastal location. As
the gateway to the wider region, the city
rewards travellers twice over: not only is it
ahugely enjoyable destination in its own
right, it also serves as a superbly situated
jumping-off point for exploring the rest of
the state. From here, you really can see it all.
Not that youll be in any rush to leave. The
city is home to some of the most iconic
attractions in world travel, from the Sydney
Opera House to Bondi Beach, although in
The easy New South Wales climate
makes Sydney a year-round
destination and so too does the
citys famous events calendar
City with no limits
Clockwise from
top-right: Sydney has
many outdoor pursuits;
Singapore Airlines gives
comfort and speed; the
famous Sydney Harbour
Xtra
Scan here to
watch video
116 | Wanderlust April 2017
many ways these headline draws should
be seen as little more than hors doeuvres.
The real joys of the city are found by
delving into its colourful patchwork of
neighbourhoods: its lazy cafes and
ferry-traversed bays, its green parks and
hidden beaches, its historic backstreets
and dizzying nightlife.
In terms of unique Sydney experiences,
theres ample choice. Classic options include
climbing to the summit of the Sydney Harbour
Bridge, making the scenic crossing to the
beach suburb of Manly or lounging over a
long picnic in the Royal Botanic Garden. For
something more active, meanwhile, theres
no better urban day-walk in Australia than
the six-kilometre coastal hike from Coogee
to Bondi, which showcases the citys famous
ocean beaches to dramatic effect.
Travellers looking for cultural attractions
are well catered for. The city has an excellent
range of museums and galleries, with
highlights including the Museum of
Contemporary Art Australia, the Art Gallery
of New South Wales and the terrific
Australian Museum, the oldest such venue
in the country. For something out of the
ordinary, try exploring the former convict
site of Hyde Park Barracks or learning about
the southern skies on a night viewing at
Sydney Observatory and dont forget the
wild residents of Taronga Zoo.
The city has become renowned for its
food and drink. Sydneys dining scene is
amicrocosm of its cosmopolitan make-up,
with a array of Asian, European and
Middle-Eastern restaurants alongside
high-quality Australian fare. Ameal out can
be what you make it here, whether you want
to sample seafood at abeachside cafe, feast
on fusion cuisine at alaneway bar or book
a table at one of the Worlds Top 100
Restaurants. Meanwhile, if you fancy
sampling some of the most fancied wines in
the world, the famous Hunter Valley wine
region is just two hours away from city,
letting you do so direct from the vineyard.
Even closer are the epic Blue Mountains,
Dreamstime; Alamy
an obligatory port of call for bushwalkers
thanks to their deep wilderness vistas

Xtra
Scan to reveal more
cultural highlights
and towering eucalyptus-hazed slopes.
Just south of Sydney, meanwhile, youll
find Royal National Park, a coastal
spread of rivers and beaches. The city
even boasts its own epic wilderness in
its very heart: Sydney Harbour National
Park incorporates various islands and
foreshore areas within the city limits,
laying on options for swimmers, kayakers,
hikers and more.
The easy New South Wales climate
makes Sydney a year-round destination
and so too does the citys events calendar.
Film director Baz Luhrmanns famous
comment that if Paris is the City of
Lights, then Sydney is the City of
Fireworks is never truer than on New
Years Eve, but every month holds its
own happenings and celebrations. From
showpiece sporting occasions to big-name
music festivals, the city has a welcome
habit of keeping the energy levels high.
Any trip to New South Wales begins in
Sydney. From here, the states scintillating
spread of rainforest, coast, Outback and
mountains is laid out in full. In those terms
it helps to see it as a gateway city but oh,
what a gateway city.
New South Wales Promotional feature
Your favourite way to arrive
Marking 50 years of flying to Sydney, Singapore Airlines
Wanderlust readers no.1 has just made its service
even better with its Premium Economy Class
Its not just by chance that Wanderlust
readers have, yet again, voted Singapore
Airlines (www.singaporeair.com) the
worlds top airline. The Asian carrier
consistently sets a benchmark for the
industry, winning plaudits for everything
from its on-board comfort and service
levels to its entertainment, food and
drink. Making the journey Down Under
should be a memorable part of the
overall travel experience, and with
Singapore Airlines youll be in the
hands of one of the most experienced
airlines on the globe.
Proof of its success is the fact that the
airline has clocked up 50 years of flying to
Sydney. Golden anniversaries like this
dont come about without a commitment
to excellence, and Singapore Airlines is
nothing if not dedicated to innovation. Its
now a full decade since it started using
ground-breaking A380 airliners, while
the new direct Manchester-Singapore
route takes place on the brand new A350,
which boasts a revolutionary wing shape,
higher ceilings and time-zone sensitive
lighting. The delivery to its customers of
a high-quality product has always been
at Singapore Airlines core.
As a way to reach Sydney, the airline
is the outstanding choice. It offers up to
35 flights a week between Singapore
and the New South Wales capital, with
Xtra
Scan to reveal why
Wanderlust readers voted
Singapore Airlines no.1
travellers from the UK receiving the
further perk of transferring in
Singapores Changi Airport named
Top Worldwide Airport by Wanderlust
readers on 11 separate occasions.
And by flying via Singapore, youre
also making use of the fastest route
between the UK and Sydney. Youll
even find Australian wines being
served on board, as well as menus
created by New South Wales celebrity
chef MattMoran.
Singapore Airlines has also timed its
services from the UK to maximise the
chance of catching afull nights sleep.
Even better, its now possible to make
the full journey out to Australia from
London or Manchester in the airlines
award-winning Premium Economy Class,
with gourmet meals, generous seat
pitches and ample space to recline.
Sydney is a famously easy-going
destination, so flying to the city with
Singapore Airlines makes for a natural
fit: the sheer comfort of the end-to-end
experience is unbeatable. Just as
relevantly, theres no more apt way of
arriving into one of the worlds most
spectacular cities than on the worlds
most awarded airline.
Wanderlust April 2017 | 117
 New South Wales Promotional feature
Epic experience
Big mountains, bigger coast, biggest scenery: New South Wales is an
adventurous travellers dream of massive landscapes and wonderful wildlife
A
nywhere that can offer
dense rainforest, diver-
friendly reefs, snow-
covered slopes, surf breaks
and red Outback in one
place is more than just
another trip destination.
New South Wales
potential for outdoor escape is as fine as
youll find anywhere on the planet.
The states coastline is one of its crowning
glories, serving up more than 1,600
kilometres of sands, cliffs, bays and islands.
Ravishingly scenic, its also a playground for
beach bums, adrenaline junkies and every
shade of adventure-lover in between.
A single weeks travelling might throw up
everything from whalewatching and coastal
trekking to stand-up paddle boarding and
surfing, not to mention a wealth of epic
sunrises and Instagram-friendly beaches.
There are riches to be uncovered both
north and south of Sydney. The 900km road
trip known as the Legendary Pacific Coast
will take you northwards to surf hotspot
Byron Bay, leading past fishing hamlets,
ocean-fringed rainforests and indigenous
sites. Port Stephens, Port Macquarie and
Coffs Harbour are also all en route, as are an
abundance of friendly surf schools.
If youre heading south out of Sydney, you
can enjoy some classic New South Whales
coastal adventures. The spread of Jervis Bay
Xtra
Scan to reveal 5 Classic Aussie
Experiences you must try
118 | Wanderlust April 2017
is known for its resident dolphins and its
suitability for kayaking, kite-surfing, sailing
charters and fishing trips; a little further
down the coast, youll find whalewatching
mecca Eden the best sightings are between
September and November.
Elsewhere, the states range of islands
throws up further options for adventure.
On Montague Island its possible to snorkel
with fur seals, while 595km offshore youll
find Lord Howe Island. Its remote location
makes it aprime spot for birdwatching, with
more than 130 permanent and migratory
species, and the islands cliffs, beaches and
diving scene make it well worth the two-hour
flight from Sydney. Indeed, its rarest migrant
species are humans, with only 400 people
allowed on the island at any one time.
But if you thought the New South Wales
coastline is adiverse place, the same is doubly
true inland, where an area almost four times
the size of the UK awaits offering varied
landscapes. The Great Dividing Range runs
the full length of the state, encompassing
two of the regions biggest outdoor
attractions: the Blue Mountains and the
Snowy Mountains. The former are easy to
factor into a New South Wales journey, by
virtue of their proximity to Sydney. They
emphatically deserve far more than aday trip
though, with abseiling, cycling, Aboriginal
tours, day spas, bushwalking trails and
horseriding trips. Their name comes from
the bluish haze given off by the eucalyptus
woods that carpet the mountains.
The Snowy Mountains, meanwhile, are
amajor draw in their own right. Climbing,
caving, skiing and snowboarding are all on
the menu here the key resort town of
Thredbo usually has snow between June
and October. At other times of year,
thrill-seekers can make the ascent of the
2,228-metre-high Mount Kosciuszko,
mainland Australias highest peak.
The coastline is fringed with national
parks to have a wild adventure in:
Wollumbin National Park boasts treks over
an ancient volcano crater; Budderoo NP is
known for its waterfalls and wildflowers;
and the mellow expanse of Ku-ring-gai
Chase NP, where cycling, fishing and
walking are among the activities on offer.
Heading further inland, youll reach the
red plains of the Outback and rich human
history. The mining town of Broken Hill has
both a Royal Flying Doctor Service visitor
centre and an outdoor sculpture park; the
landscapes of the UNESCO-listed Mungo
NP meanwhile is home to more than 40,000
years of Aboriginal history. Adventure-
seekers can even take on the 800km 4WD
outback route that is the Darling River Run.
Whether its astonishing wildlife, epic
landscapes or white-knuckle adventures,
New South Wales has every sort of
adventure to set your pulse racing.
Alamy
 Xtra

Scan to reveal more ideas

for aquatic adventures

The states coastline is one of its

crowning glories, serving up more
than 1,600 kilometres of sands,
cliffs, bays and islands

Running wild
New South Wales offers
thrills on land and off,
with whales, fur seals
and kangaroos among
the stunning wildlife to
be found
 Classic & cool
As diverse as it is vast, New South Wales offers the best experiences in
whatever floats your surfboard, whether its culture, cuisine, nightlife or sport

A
 ny trip Down Under is
always going to involve far
more than mere sight-
seeing. The relaxed
Australian way of life is an
inseparable part of the
overall experience, and in
New South Wales youll
find it in abundance from its beach
culture to its cuisine and festivals.
The states gourmet offerings are
especially enticing. Specialities include
succulent prawns and premium oysters,
artisan meats and farmhouse cheeses,
and tropical fruit and fresh vegetables.
Sydney has some of the best restaurants
in the entire southern hemisphere,
while many in regional New South Wales
have garlands of their own.
Its vintners are just as laden with
awards. New South Wales has 14 different
wine regions, all of which offer cellar
door tastings. The best known is the
sweeping Hunter Valley, the oldest such
region in Australia, but there are real
treasures to be uncovered elsewhere, with
the Hastings River region and the Southern
Highlands being two choice regions for
connoisseurs. The states craft beer
movement is also in full flow, with dedicated
bars and brewhouses across the map.
Foodies can time a visit here to coincide
with one of the states culinary festivals,
including Septembers Mudgee Wine &
Food Festival, Octobers Orange Wine
Festival, and Sydneys Good Food Month
the largest festival of its kind in the
country (TBC, usually October).
On a wider level, of course, New South
Wales has a richly varied annual calendar
of cultural events, ranging from classic
Sydney occasions such as the plethora of
New Years Eve parties, to all-Australian
celebrations like Januarys Tamworth
Country Music Festival.
Two other major Sydney events are the
Handa Opera season, which this year sees
Carmen being performed outdoors against
aharbour backdrop between 24 March and
23 April, and the annual light and sound
spectacular Vivid Sydney, with 2017 dates
from 26 May to 17 June.
Sports fans also have good reason to set
their eyes on New South Wales. The
England cricket team arrive in Australia for
an Ashes series at the end of the year and go
to New South Wales for the beginning of

Living the high life

Clockwise from below:
Viewing NSWs famous
vineyards by balloon;
the premium oysters
are popular; the food is
as fine as the scenery

Few destinations are as gloriously

diverse as New South Wales, and this
variety is precisely what gives the
region such broad appeal

For more information on New South Wales, visit www.sydney.com

120 | Wanderlust April 2017
 New South Wales Promotional feature

2018. They will play a Test match at the

legendary Sydney Cricket Ground between
4and 8 January next year, with a one-day
match at the same venue on 21 January.
Few destinations are as diverse as New
South Wales, and this variety is precisely
what gives the region such broad appeal.
You might be setting off on a coastal road
trip in a campervan, surfboard strapped to
the roof. You might be joining a guided food
and wine tour through the rolling green hills
of the countryside. You might be strapping
on your walking boots for a hike through
UNESCO-listed mountains, wildlife
binoculars at the ready. Xtra

Scan for Singapore

In New South Wales, the choice is never Airlines flight deals
less than broad and however you choose to
spend your time here, you can be guaranteed
an adventure worthy of the name.

Xtra

Scan here for Sydney

and New South Wales top

NSW essentials
food & wine experiences

STATE CAPITAL: Sydney
TIME ZONE: GMT +10
VISAS: British travellers need a visa to enter
Australia. The eVisitor visa is free and can be
obtained online from the Department of
Immigration & Border Protection (border.gov.au).
It allows for visits of up to three months.
MONEY: Australian dollar (1 = approximately
AUD 1.62)
WHEN TO GO: NSW is a year-round
destination, with seasons that are inverse of
those in the UK, with summer from December
to February and a winter from June to August,
which boasts average temperatures of 16C.
GETTING THERE & AROUND: Flights from the
UK are frequent, with the award-winning
Singapore Airlines among those offering
aone-stop service. In NSW itself, theres
agood road network for hire vehicles and
public buses, as well as various rail routes.
Internal flights connect Sydney with
Newcastle, Tamworth, Coffs Harbour, Port
Macquarie and Ballina (for Byron Bay).
ACCOMMODATION: The state offers five-star
luxury, backpacker hostels and the full
spectrum of options in between, including
some very good campsites.
MORE INFO: sydney.com

For more information on Singapore Airlines, visit www.singaporeair.com

Wanderlust April 2017 | 121
 CLASSIFIED
Specialist Directory: AFRICA
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Jobshop

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POCKET GUIDES
T H E B I T S O F T H E G U I D E B O O K Y O U R E A L LY N E E D

129 KYOTO

131 SNOWDONIA 133 NEW ZEALAND

Wanderlust April 2017 | 127

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All that glitters
Kinkaku-ji is still one of
Kyotos best known and
busiest sites but go
early to avoid the crowds
Kyoto, Japan
Winning Top City in our Reader Travel Awards, Kyotos array of ancient sites is
no secret, but heres how to explore it the crowd-free way, says James Hadfield
Before you arrive
As Japans capital for over 1,000 years,
Kyoto takes its history very seriously without being
overwhelmed by it. The result is a wonderful blend
of the modern and the ancient living side by side.
The Imperial court first moved here from Nara in
794 AD, and didnt officially leave until 1868. Since
then, Kyoto has experienced more than its fair
shareof hardships, but was largely spared by US
bombers during the Second World War. And while
few of its old townhouses remain today, its many
cultural treasures including 400 Shinto shrines
and 1,600 Buddhist temples are gloriously intact.
Finding moments of Zen-like tranquillity can be
achallenge, though. Overseas visitors to Japan
Previous and this page: Dreamstime
have increased nearly threefold since 2010, and it
can feel like every last one of them has made their
way to Kyoto usually on a day trip from Tokyo.
But escaping the tour-group crush is often a simple
Shutterstock
question of stepping off the main thoroughfares
Pocket Guides First 24 Hours
and exploring its network of backstreets instead,
winding narrow alleys past teashops and stores.
Away from the heritage sites, this is athriving
modern city with chic fashion boutiques and a hip
dining scene. And while many come for the history,
there is more to Kyoto than geishas and temples.
At the airport
There are no direct flights from the UK to
Kyoto, with routes typically going either viaTokyos
Narita airport to Osaka International Airport (Itami)
or viainternational connections to Osakas Kansai
International Airport. Flight time is around 15 hours.
Kansai is situated 50km from Kyotos city centre
onaman-made island in Osaka Bay; Itami is closer
at 40km. Both are well equipped with info booths,
currency exchanges and ATMs in Arrivals, as well
as free Wifi. But finding a cheap internet connection
elsewhere can be a tricky; its often easier to pick up
aprepaid SIMcard or mobile router atthe airport.
Getting into town
There is a 75-minute direct train from Kansai
toKyoto Station (JPY2,850/20). This is covered
bythe Japan Rail Pass (japanrailpass.net), which
offers unlimited trips on the nationwide JR network
(JPY29,110/212 for seven consecutive days) and,
for the first time, can now be bought at some stations
though it is cheaper to buy in advance. Itami has
no direct rail links to Kyoto, so it is quicker and easier
to take the 70-minute shuttle bus (JPY1,310/9).
Other ways to arrive
From Tokyo, catch the JR Tokaido
shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo Station (from
JPY13,600/98). The JR Pass is only valid for the
Hikari and Kodama services (2.54 hours), and
notthe more frequent (and faster) Nozomi. But the
slower pace is worth it on clear days, as youll get
agood view ofMount Fuji from the right hand side
of thetrain, just under an hour after leaving Tokyo.
Wanderlust April 2017 | 129
 Pocket Guides First 24 Hours

HERES THE PLAN...

Essential Info
Population: 1.47 million the observation deck on Shogunzuka
Language: Japanese Mound. This is believed to be the spot
Timezone: GMT+9 where the Emperor Kanmu first
International dialling code: +81 surveyed the location of his future
Visas: Not required by UK nationals for capital back in the 8th century.
stays of up to 90 days Health issues: No specific jabs are
Currency: Japanese yen (JPY), currently required, but remember to stay hydrated
JPY140 to the UK during the long, hot summer months.
Highest viewpoint: A 40-minute hike Recommended guidebooks:
up Mount Daimonji, on the eastern side Kyoto (Lonely Planet, 2015), Wallpaper*
of Kyoto, offers sweeping views over the City Guide Kyoto (Phaidon, 2016),
entire city. On clear days you can see as Old Kyoto (Kodansha USA, 2013)
far as Osaka. For a more regal view, try Getting around: Pick up a prepaid
Traffica Kyoto Card (JPY1,200/9 for 24
hours), valid on the metro and city buses,
35 MM 250
C to save having to fiddle with change.
Web resources: The official tourist
28 200 board site is kyoto.travel/en. Also try city
guide website insidekyoto.com, written
21 150 by a locally based Lonely Planet author
Climate: Kyoto is notoriously hot during
14 100 summer (up to 35C) and chilly in the
winter. Spring and autumn are the best
times to visit, although these are
7 50
very popular with Japanese
F i r s t D a y s To u r
If you wake up early, Kiyomizu-dera
(pictured; kiyomizudera.or.jp) is open
from 6am, which is the best time to visit if
you dont want to share this temple with
others. Its hillside perch also rewards with
sweeping, unrestricted views over the city.
Grab a caffeine fix in Higashiyama at
% Arabica (arabica.coffee) a chain that
originated in Kyoto then walk through
narrow, picturesque lanes crowded with
teahouses to Maruyama Park. Pause to
see the dramatic gate of Chion-in before
stopping at Shoren-in (shorenin.com) in
the far north of the park, a lesser-visited
temple with a rather exquisite garden.
Keep north and youll spy the imposing,
24m-high gate to Heian Shrine, built in
1895 to mark 1,100 years of the city, then
brave the queues at the excellent Okakita
(kyoto-okakita.com), next to Okazaki Park,
to taste its superb soba and udon noodles. Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion). Built to match
Next, veer west to get your temple fix the citys Golden Pavilon (see Stay or Go),
at Nanzen-ji (nanzen.net), which hides it contains no silver but its name has stuck.
acharming waterfall grotto in the Otherwise, head east to the Sanjo area
hills behind. Now follow the for Kyotos shopping district, where you

0
JFMAMJJASOND
0
tourists, especially when
the cherry blossoms
bloom (late March
Top Tip
Kyoto is a city best
canal-side Philosophers
Path north past cherry
blossom trees to the
can work up an appetite at the covered
Nishiki Market. Finish nearby with acheap,
umami-laden bowl of burnt miso ramen
Rainfall (average) Temperature (average high)
tomid-April). experienced on foot. beautiful and busy atGogyo (ramendining-gogyo.com).
Dont be afraid to stray
off the beaten path
the grid-pattern layout
makes it almost
impossible to get lost.

Where to Stay Stay or Go?

While the district around Kyoto Station
often seems like a more convenient
option, the downtown area has much
more character, and also puts you within
walking distance of many of the best
sightseeing spots in the city.
Top end: Viewed by many as Japans best
ryokan (traditional inn), Tawaraya Ryokan
(pictured; bookings via japanican.com) has
spent over 300 years making understated
Mid price: A prime location in the heart
ofthe Sanjo area makes Kyoto Royal
ParkHotel (rph-the.co.jp/kyoto) ideal for
anyone wanting to experience the best
that Kyoto has to offer, both day and
night. Doubles from JPY20,000 (143).
Budget: At the futuristic 9hours hotel
(ninehours.co.jp/en/kyoto/), it can often
feel like youre sleeping in a sci-fi movie,
rather than the glorified sardine tin that
You will need a few days to explore
beyond Kyotos centre. The picture-perfect
golden pavilion of Kinkaku-ji and the
meditative stone garden of Ryoan-ji both
lie in the far north of the city, while the
Fushimi Inari Shrine (pictured), with its
endless corridors of red torii gates, is
south of the main station. All are worth
exploring early, before the crowds arrive.
Also of note is Arashiyama, a leafy
And if you really want to get away from it
all, head to Ohara, a charming rural village
to the north of the city, or make a day trip
to Nara, where docile deer roam through
apark surrounded by historic temples.
Further afield, the Kansai region lies on
your doorstep, with metropolises like Kobe
and Osaka within reach, along with Himeji
and its fine hilltop castle. Alternatively,
shun the modern for a pilgrimage south to
Alamy; Dreamstime

perfection feel effortless. Half-board stays plenty of other capsule hotels evoke. district in the western outskirts of Kyoto spend the night in a Buddhist temple on
from JPY45,000 (320) per person. From JPY1,900 (14) per capsule. that needs at least half aday to explore. the sacred mountain of Koyasan. Bliss.

130 | Wanderlust April 2017


Snowdonia, Wales
With Snowdonia scooping Best UK Destination in our Reader Travel Awards,
Chris Moss discovers the Welsh culture and fine food beyond its iconic peaks
A
s Wales oldest, best-known and
largest national park, Snowdonia isall
things to all people: hiking paradise,
bikers dream ride, Welsh culture-
buffs heartland. Jim Perrin, author of
a book about its highest peak, Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa
in Welsh), declared it the British mainlands finest
mountain, compared withwhich, Scafell Pike and
Ben Nevis were but lumpenand uncouth masses.
Scots and Cumbrians may demur. But to be
voted Best UK Destination in Wanderlusts 2017
Reader Travel Awards (p91) says a lot about your
love for the area. And notwithstanding the crowds
that congregate in its quainter towns, theres more
than just towering peaks here, with plenty of fine
food, beaches, castles and wild walks to discover.
Indeed, Snowdonia sweeps a large corner of
north-west Wales, covering 2,176 sq km from Conwy
on the North Wales coast, down to Aberdyfi midway
Shutterstock
along glorious Cardigan Bay and deep inland to
beautiful Bala Lake (Llyn Tegid). Quaternary ice
ages have carved steep slopes and U-shaped
valleys into the ancient volcanic ash, of which the
area is formed, leaving a rugged landscape that
has long proven resistant to extensive settlement.
Nonetheless, there are many farms, towns and
villages scattered across the park, with around
26,000 people living within its bounds. For visitors,
thetwo gateway towns of Betws-y-Coed and
Llanberis are particularly attractive, as is the
handsome Harlech, complete with UNESCO-listed
medieval castle. But it is a beauty that may not have
survived were it not for the creation of its park.
Established in 1951, Snowdonia NP was founded
to protect Wales most scenic mountains (including
15 peaks over 3,000ft/914m) and curb encroaching
industry. Today, its protected peaks, waterfalls,
lakes, Alpine grasslands and forests form an active
travellers playground. To plan a trip here, simply
pickupOrdnance Survey Map OL17 and plot out
Pocket Guides Short Break
Southern belle
A hiker overlooks Cadair
Idris in Snowdonia
National Park
what most appeals from a short stroll along a
river to a hill-walk up the country's highest.
But whatever you need to work up a hunger,
youll find it here not to mention ahealthy dining
scene. No less than 41 North Walian restaurants
appeared in the 2017 Michelin guide, including
Mawddach (mawddach.com), a fine farmhouse
eatery at Llanelltyd, and Sygun Fawr Country
House (sygunfawr.co.uk), part way up amountain
in Beddgelert. And be sure to try local beers by
the Great Orme and Purple Moose breweries.
Then theres Snowdonias more intangible
qualities. As a linguistic and cultural centre, nearly
60 percent of its population speak Welsh. From
bilingual place names and topography (cwm/
valley, pentre/village, aber/river mouth) to
historical sites and local legends, Welsh culture
thrives here. So, by all means explore its peaks
and ridges, but know that there is more to this
perfectly preserved piece of north-west Wales.
Wanderlust April 2017 |131
 Pocket Guides Short Break

HERES THE PLAN...

Essential Info
When to go: Between March and
October. Spring and autumn have
better weather and fewer people, but
avoid weekends andbank holidays.
Snowdon can get crowdedinsummer
but there's plenty of other mountains.
Getting there: The Cambrian Coast
railway calls at both Harlech and
Porthmadog, while the Chester-to-
Holyhead line has stops at Llandudno
Junction and Bangor. Alternatively,
the Conwy Valley route runs from
Llandudno Junction to Betws-y-Coed
and Blaenau Ffestiniog, from where
the privately run 22km Ffestiniog Line
drops down to Porthmadog. The
excellent Sherpa bus network drops
you off at the start of many walking
trailheads from key towns.
Getting around: A car is useful. But
the top end can be accessed via
Llandudno, which has buses and
trains (see above) to Betws-y-Coed.
withrooms in Harlech; doubles from
135pn. In attractive Betws-y-Coed
lies the award-winning Ty Gwyn
Hotel (tygwynhotel.co.uk), a former
coaching inn that dates from 1636
with cosy doubles from 30pppn.
Where to eat: Bodnant Food Centre
(bodnant-welshfood.co.uk) has
afine seven-course tasting menu of
modern Welsh cuisine. The cooking
at the Bee Inn (thebeeinn.co.uk) in
Eglwysbach befits its 2015 CAMRA
Food Pub of the Year plaque. And
for something less grand, Pen-y-
Ceunant Isaf (snowdoncafe.com) is
a nice walkers caf by the Llanberis
Path. (See p131 for more suggestions.)
More info: The Visit Snowdonia site
(visitsnowdonia.info) is good for
walking guides. The national park
(eryri-npa.gov.uk) and Visit Wales
(visitwales.com) sites are also
handy. Read Jim Perrins
Day 1: AROUND SNOWDON
The top of Snowdons 1,085m-high
peak can be reached via a trip on the
seasonal 7.5km rack-and-pinion
Snowdon Mountain Railway
(pictured; snowdonrailway.co.uk),
which climbs from Llanberis up to
acaf and visitor centre. Youcan
also walk, using either the Llanberis
Path, which runs parallel to the rails,
or the shorter but steeper Pyg (12km)
orMiners (13km) tracks.
Arthurian legends and tales
offairies and afanc (lake
unravelling the peaks myths. And on
a clear day, you can make out the Isle
of Man, Ireland and England.
Those who prefer a ridge walk
should, weather-permitting (in winter
its for mountaineers only), do the
11km Snowdon Horseshoe. Though
not for vertigo sufferers, it involves
ahike across the blade-like arte of
Crib Goch, which delivers fine views
if you have the nerve to look.
The descent follows a steep-ish
scree slope on the south-east face

Harlech is gateway tothe south.
Where to stay: Castle Cottage
(castlecottageharlech.co.uk) is
a rural seven-suite restaurant
top tip
Snowdon: The Story of monsters) swirl the and over the peak of Y Lliwedd.
a Welsh Mountain summit, with audio Spend the night at nearby Llanberis,
(Gomer, 2012) for commentary found formerly a dormitory town for slate
Organised by the people behind
some tall tales. the popular Keswick Mountain in the visitor centre quarry miners and now a hiking hub.
Festival, the Snowdonia Outdoor
Festival (Aug 1113) will be
focused on adventure activities
and sports. For tickets, visit
tinyurl.com/SnowOF

Day 2: AROUND BETWS-Y-COED Day 3: HARLECH AND THE RHINOGS

Betwys-y-Coed is indisputably
Snowdonias other honeypot (along
with Wales highest peak). This former
Victorian resort town has become
apopular walking base and sits at the
picturesque junction of three river
valleys (the Conwy, Llugwy and Lledr),
close to Gwydyr Forest good for
cycling, easy walks and birding.
The town has a number of Victorian-
era buildings, plenty of pubs and lots
of shops selling outdoor gear lest
build a house in one night proof
being a smoking chimney by sunrise
the next day would be granted
freehold of the land. Today, it is the
home of the Snowdonia Society.
Drop by the rather charming
Conwy Valley Railway Museum
(conwyrailwaymuseum.co.uk) for all
manner oftrain paraphernalia and
miniature railways. Afterwards, stroll
the pleasant 4km riverside walk to
Swallow Falls (Rhaeadr Ewynnol),
Harlech is asmart, even gentrified,
town with an array of antique stores
and teashops. It makes a fine base for
exploring southern Snowdonia.
First, pay a visit to medieval Harlech available online (see More info)
Castle (pictured), which stands high
and proud over Tremadog Bay as the
southernmost of four fortifications
listed by UNESCO. From Harlech,
drive to Llyn Cwm Bychan for a 8km
hike into the Rhinogs, a compact
range of wild and stunning hills less
being Rhinog Fach and Y Lethr). Note
that it is virtually pathless and
requires good navigational skills.
Lots of walking guides and maps are
tohelp you find your way.
Southern Snowdonia also boasts
the popular Cadair Idris (893m) peak
and fine beaches. Visit Portmeirion,
which resembles a scale version of
Italys Amalfi Coast and was where
cult 1960s TV series The Prisoner was
Previous page Getty This page Dreamstime

you forget that essential base layer.
Curious sites include the Ugly House
(pictured; theuglyhouse.co.uk), which
was most likely built in 1475 in lieu of
alocal ruling that anyone who could
where the Llugwy River cascades
down a rocky staircase. Finish at the
family-run Trefriw Woollen Mills
(t-w-m.co.uk), built in 1858 and now
both a museum and working mill.
well known than Snowdons massif.
The walk via the Roman Steps
takes you up to thegranite summit
of Rhinog Fawr (720m), one of the
three best-known peaks (the others
filmed. End your trip with a ride on the
Ffestiniog Railway (festrail.co.uk)
upto Blaenau Ffestiniog, to see the
Llechwedd Slate Caverns and learn
about the areas slate-mining past.

132 | Wanderlust April 2017


All under one roof
One of numerous
intricately carved
marae (meeting
places) found
around Rotorua
FIRST 24 HOURS
Maori culture, New Zealand
Its gorgeous landscapes meant you once again chose New Zealand as your favourite
destination, but its earliest settlers are arguably what makes the country really tick
Get orientated
New Zealand has long been revered for its
landscapes. North Island has geysers, volcanoes
and ancient forests galore; the South is dashed with
epic mountains, glaciers and fjords. Few settings are
as instantly recognisable or iconic, and it seems you,
our readers, agree, having voted it Top Country
yet again in our Reader Travel Awards 2017 (p91).
But amid the fevered Tolkien comparisons, what
isoften overlooked is the islands native culture. Its
rather surprising given the landscape is so entwined
with the traditions of the Maori. From sacred peaks
(the gods and warriors of old) to the creation myths
that sketch the forest and sea, they are inseparable.
And this year is an important one for the countrys
original settlers, marking 150 years since the Maori
Representation Act when the first Maori were
elected to New Zealands parliament. What better
Shutterstock
time to learn more about their enduring culture?
Getting there & around
There are no direct flights from the UK to
New Zealand, but connecting flights can be found
from many UK cities. Flying from London to Auckland
the majority of Maori villages lie within the North
Island costs from 500; flight time is around 30
hours. The northern part of the South Island
(Kaikoura, Marlborough) also has a large Maori
community, with domestic flights connecting
Christchurch. But village marae (meeting places)
can only be visited as part of an organised tour.
The visit
The Maori were New Zealands first settlers,
arriving long before the Europeans landed in the
1800s. They came from Polynesia around 1,000
years ago and their culture has largely endured, with
ceremonial performances, hangi (pit oven) feasting
and wood-carving still visible in village life today.
Pocket Guides Travel Icon
Head to geothermal Rotorua for a trio of old
settlements (Mitai, Tamaki and Whakarewarewa)
and villages that still rely on the boiling waters
ofthe geyser-laden Te Puia valley the 20-a-day
spurts of Pohutu geyser are well worth spying, too.
Further north are the Waitangi Treaty Grounds,
where New Zealand was confirmed a British colony
in 1840 and home to some finely carved marae.
Here, hire a dug-out canoe and trace the wake of
the countrys first settlers around the Bay of Islands.
The South Island has its own Maori history. Thigh-
slapping hakas (war dances) and hangi feasts
await at Ko Tane in Willowbank Wildlife Reserve,
the islands only working village. Spy rock art near
Timaru, while the Maori and Colonial Museum in
Okains Bay boasts some impressive tribal artefacts.
But the true Maori spirit lies in the landscape they
consider sacred. The best way to understand local
culture is to explore it New Zealand at its best!
Wanderlust April 2017 | 133
 Pocket Guides Travel Icon

 MAORI MEETING HOUSES Oars at the ready

Fortified Maori villages (called pas) started to emerge in New Zealand in the 14th-century. Near the Waitangi meeting
They consisted of a number of houses clustered around a marae (meeting place), and at the house lies the worlds largest
centre ofthis was the whare runanga (meeting house), usually dedicated to a highly revered warrior canoe (pictured left).
ancestor. North Island villages, in particular, boast many richly-decorated communal houses, This 35m-long boat took two
which often host feasts, greetings ceremonies and dances, and the recital of traditional years to build, and on Waitangi
speeches and songs. The oldest preserved example of these date back to the 19th century. Day it is traditionally set afloat
and rowedby eight warriors.

5 The interior
The interior and the roof ridge
beams and rafters represent the
1 The tekoteko
The carved figure
(tekoteko) of a highly
chest and the spine of the ancestor. revered ancestor usually
1 crowns the roof ridge of
the meeting house.
5

4 2

4 Myths
and stories
The elaborate carvings
on the interior walls of
the meeting houses
3
often tell of Maori myths.
A commonly depicted
tale, for example, is
2 Roof ridge
Below the roof
ridge, the face of the
theepic fight between ancestor is represented
Kupetheseafarer and as a mask, with the
a giantsquid during ancestors arms
theoriginal discovery (maihi) typically
of New Zealand. outstretched
inthe form of sloping
bargeboards.
What a carve up!
The numerous carvings

3 Side posts
in the meeting houses are
lovingly crafted by hand.
The side posts
of the meeting house
tend to symbolise the
ancestors ribs.

Essentials
Language: English; Maori
Time: GMT+13 (OctMar GMT+12)
Previous page Dreamstime This page Dreamstime, Marco Polo/Baedeker

Visas: Not required by UK nationals

Money: New Zealand dollar (NZ$), currently around
Gone but NZ$1.74 tothe UK
notforgotten Health: Excellent facilities. Beware changeable
Carvings of human weather and strong sun.
figures count among
the most important The feature was adapted from Marco Polos
artistic traditions of Travel Handbook: New Zealand, which
theMaori. These contains infographics, insider tips, tour
represent ancestors suggestions and a large pull-out map.
rather than gods. See marco-polo.com

134 | Wanderlust April 2017

 T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E

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Parting shot
The stairways to India
Watering holes tend to be associated with wildlife-spotting
opportunities, but theyre just as good for insights into
local society, too whether remote wells or buzzy city
bars. Indias stepwells were first built in 200AD, soon
becoming social hubs. The intricacy of their designs
matched their growing status and, while modern water
systems have since replaced them, they remain as fine
136 | Wanderlust April 2017
examples of Indian architecture, like Mahila Bag Jhalra in
Jodhpur (pictured above). This stepwell and many others
are the subject of Victoria Lautmans The Vanishing
Stepwells of India (Merrell Publishers; 40; out now). While
they may have fallen into disrepair, images such as this that
Victoria Lautman
will ensure that their legacy lives on. The other way to help,
of course, is to stick them on your next Indian itinerary.
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