Malaysia and Singapore (EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDE) by Andrew Forbes, Et Al (DK, 2010)

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
MALAYSIA
& SINGAPORE
RAIN FORESTS BEACHES

DIVING SHOPPING
TEMPLES FESTIVALS
RESTA
TAURANTS WILDLIFE
RESORT
R S ARCHITECTURE
THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT
OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU
Malaysia and Singapore Region by Region
EASTERN AND
CENTRAL PENINSULA
es 13249
NORTHWEST
PENINSULA
Pages 86115
4 (!), ! . $
(FPSHFUPXO
,
,VBMB5FSFOHHBOV
b
./2
/2
24(7%34 %!34%2.!.$ KUALA LUMPUR
0%.
.).
).35,! #%.42!,0%.).35,
5,!
5,
,! Pages 5685
b
,
,VBOUBO
+5!,!,5-0
-0552
b
4FSFNCBO
O
4PVUI$IJOB4FB
0 km 100
00
0
).$ /. % 3 ) !
3 5 - ! 42 ! 0 miles 100
SABAH
Pages 17495
SOUTHERN
PENINSULA
Pages 11631
0(),))00).%3
0(),)0
SARAWAK
Pages 15073
,PUB,JOBCBMV
MV
V
3!"!(
#BOEBS4FSJ#FHBXBO
BO
b
SINGAPORE
Pages 196267 "25.%)
"
"22
.JSJ
SJ b
#JOUVMV
V
b
3!2!7!+
) .$/.%3) !
+! ,) -! .4 ! .
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
MALAYSIA &
SINGAPORE
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
MALAYSIA &
SINGAPORE
CONTENTS
MANAGING EDITOR Aruna Ghose

EDITORIAL MANAGER Ankita Awasthi
A
DESIGN MANAGERR Priyanka Thakur
PROJECT EDITORS Sandhya Iyer, Shonali Yadav
PROJECT DESIGNERS Neha Beniwal, Shipra Gupta
EDITORS Jayashree Menon, Ipshita Nandi Pendant, Islamic Arts Museum,
DESIGNERS Pramod Bharti, Anchal Kaushal Kuala Lumpur
SENIOR CARTOGRAPHIC MANAGER Uma Bhattacharya
CARTOGRAPHER Alok Pathak
R Vinod Harish
SENIOR DTP DESIGNER INTRODUCING
SENIOR PICTURE RESEARCHER Taiyaba Khatoon
PICTURE RESEARCHER Sumita Khatwani MALAYSIA AND
CONTRIBUTORS
SINGAPORE
David Bowden, Ron Emmons, Andrew Forbes,
Naiya Sivaraj, Richard Watkins DISCOVERING
CONSULTANTS MALAY
A SIAA AND
David Bowden, Nick White SINGAPORE
PHOTOGRAPHERS 8
Demetrio Carrasco, Nigel Hicks, Linda Whitwam
ILLUSTRATORS PUTTING MALAY
A SIA
Chapel Design and Marketing Ltd, Arun Pottirayil, AND SINGAPORE
T. Gautam Trivedi
T
ON THE MAP
Reproduced in Singapore by Colourscan
Printed and bound by L. Rex Printing Company Limited, China
12
First American Edition, 2008
08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 A PORTRAIT
OF MALAY
A SIA
Published in the United States by Dorling Kindersley Publishing,
Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York 10014 AND SINGAPORE
16
Copyright 2008 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Company
ALL RIGHTS RESERV
R ED UNDER INTERNATIONAL AND PAN-AMERICAN COPYRIGHT
THE HISTORY
R
CONVENTIONS. NO PPART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY
A BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OF MALAY
A SIA
A RETRIEVAL
V SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS,
ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR OTHERWR ISE WITHOUT AND SINGAPORE
THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER. 32
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A CATALOGING IN PUBLICATION RECORD IS
AV
AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY
R OF CONGRESS.
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN: 978-0-7566-2835-2
Front cover main image: Pantai Kok Beach, Pulau Langkawi
The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date
as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however,
such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising
from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party
websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the
views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to:
Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel
T Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
An Orang Asli boy climbing a tree
80 Strand, London WC2R R 0RL.
in Taman Negara
Entrance to Batu Caves, the largest cave temple in Malaysia

MALAYSIA REGION
BY REGION
INTRODUCING
MALAY
A SIA 48
KUALA LUMPUR 56
NORTHWEST
PENINSULA 86
SOUTHERN Visitors strolling along the sandy Pantai Cenang beach, Pulau Langkawi
PENINSULA 116
ENTERTAINMENT IN ENTERTAINMENT IN
EASTERN AND CENTRAL
SINGAPORE 252 MALAY
A SIA 320
PENINSULA 132
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
AWAK 150
SARAW
IN SINGAPORE A SIA 324
IN MALAY
256
SABAH 174
SURVIVAL
V GUIDE
SINGAPORE STREET
FINDER 258 PRACTICAL
R ATION 332
INFORM
TRAVE
A LERS NEEDS
TRAV
A EL
WHERE TO STAY
A INFORM
R ATION 342
270
GENERAL INDEX 352
WHERE TO EAT
292 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
364
Statue of the Seated Buddha in SHOPPING IN
Georgetown, Penang A SIA 314
MALAY PHRASEBOOK 366
SINGAPORE AREA
BY AREA
INTRODUCING
SINGAPORE 198
THE COLONIAL COR

AND CHINATOWN
206
LITTLE INDIA
AND ORCHARD
ROAD 224
FFARTHER AFIELD
236
SHOPPING IN
SINGAPORE 246
INTRODUCING
MALAYSIA &
SINGAPORE
DISCOVERING MALAYSIA AND

SINGAPORE 811
PUTTING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE
ON THE MAP 1215
A PORTRAIT OF MALAYSIA AND
SINGAPORE 1631
THE HISTORY OF MALAYSIA AND
SINGAPORE 3245
8 I N T R O D U C I N G M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E
DISCOVERING MALAYSIA AND

SINGAPORE
M alaysia and Singapore have an
astounding range of attrac-
tions for visitors, offering
experiences and activities that appeal
to all tastes. Malaysias national parks,
of the deep. The major cities of this
region, particularly Singapore and
Kuala Lumpur, offer the chance to see
historical monuments, witness cultural
shows, shop for local crafts, and sam-
with their superb landscapes and ple the delights of Malay, Chinese, and
unusual animals, are a magnet for Indian cuisine. These pages present
nature-lovers, while its islands attract the highlights of some of Southeast
divers eager to explore the mysteries Asias most intriguing destinations.
citys colonial past, Kuala

KUALA LUMPUR Lumpur is essentially a
modern city, and few visitors
Colonial architecture can resist the urge to admire
TTowering skyscrapers the panoramic view from
Superb shopping the dizzying heights of the
Vibrant nightlife Petronas Towers
T (see p72)
or Menara KL (see p74).
Although Kuala Lumpur is Kuala Lumpur is a shoppers
Southeast Asias youngest paradise and for serious shop-
capital and has developed ping it is necessary to become
beyond recognition during steeped in the citys shopping
the past few decades, vestiges mall culture. Most of the big-
of its colonial past still exist. gest malls are in the Golden
This is in evidence particu- T
Triangle (see p74), which is
larly around Merdeka Square also the hub of the trendiest
(see pp6061) where the restaurants, bars, and clubs.
Royal Selangor Club (see p62) Night owls can choose Rolling hills of the Cameron
and Sultan Abdul Samad between watching live bands Highlands, Northwest Peninsula
Building (see p62) display and listening to DDJs play the
British and Islamic influences latest trance and techno in
on the citys early architec- state-of-the-art nightclubs. NORTHWEST PENINSULA
ture. Several museums, such It is well worth taking a
as the National Museum (see stroll around Chinatown (see Gorgeous beaches
p66) and the Islamic Arts p64), Little India (see p70), Cool hill stations
Museum (see pp689), offer and the Malay-dominated Historic Georgetown
insights into Malaysias history Kampung Baru (see p72) to
and its complex ethnic com- explore their busy markets After Kuala Lumpur, the
position. While an effort has and to get a sense of the most visited region of
been made to preserve the citys vibrant ethnic diversity. Malaysia is the Northwest
Peninsula, and it is not
difficult to see why. With
fabulous offshore islands,
refreshing breezes at the
hill stations, historic forts
and churches, and ancient
shophouses in the older
towns, the region has
abundant attractions. The
region is also home to the
archaeologically significant
Lembah Bujang (see p110),
the site of an old Hindu-
Buddhist empire.
Situated just south of
Malaysias border with
Thailand, Pulau Langkawi
(see pp11215) is Malaysias
The Sultan Abdul Samad Building at Merdeka Square, Kuala Lumpur foremost island retreat. The
Detail from Nikhrodharam Thai T

Temple at Alor Star, Northwest Peninsula, Malaysia
D I S C O V E R I N G M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E 9
islands luxury resorts and

hotels provide all kinds of
activities for visitors, such as
snorkeling excursions, water-
sports, and boat trips to other
islands in the archipelago.
It is also worth exploring the
main islands beautiful
mountains and waterfalls.
Popular beaches off
Malaysias west coast are
Batu Ferringhi (see p108) on
Penang and Coral Bay on
Pulau Pangkor (see pp945).
After sizzling in the sun,
the cool climate of the hill Striking red faade of the Dutch Christ Church in Malacca
stations is irresistible, and
places such as Cameron from the intermarriage of
Highlands (see pp923) and SOUTHERN PENINSULA Chinese traders with local
Frasers Hill (see p91) remain Malay women. Among the
as popular with visitors Rich heritage of Malacca other immigrants to the
today as they were with Traditional
T Minangkabau Southern Peninsula were the
the British in the past, who architecture Minangkabau people from
established weekend retreats Diving at Pulau Tioman Sumatra, who settled around
here to escape the heat of the towns of Seremban
Kuala Lumpur. The most The Southern Peninsula has (see p120) and Sri Menanti
popular activities here some of Malaysias most (see p120). These towns
are trekking, visiting tea historically and culturally are well worth visiting for
plantations, playing golf, significant towns as well as the unique signature motif
evenings by a roaring fire some of its most popular of Minangkabau architecture
in a mock-Tudor hotel. offshore beaches. Culture (see p121) the sweeping,
Although there are many buffs should head directly saddle-shaped roofs that
cities of interest in the north- for Malacca (see pp1227) on adorn their houses and
west, many people consider the southwest coast to see palaces, the most spectacular
Georgetown (see pp1005), evidence of Portuguese, example in the area is the
the capital of Penang, to be Dutch, and British coloniza- Istana Lama (see p120).
not only the most fascinating tion. Of particular interest Off the southeast coast,
town in Malaysia, but in all of are the Stadthuys (see p122), Pulau Tioman (see pp13031)
Asia. Its reputation is largely the former Dutch town hall in the Seribuat Archipelago
due to its heritage, which which now houses the (see p129) is often regarded
includes colonial buildings Museum of History and as one of the worlds most
such as Fort Cornwallis (see Ethnography, the nearby beautiful islands. A trip to
p100), ancient Chinese Christ Church (see p123), and the island is rewarded with
shophouses, temples, and the Baba-Nonya Heritage visions of mountain peaks
museums. Excellent shopping Museum (see pp1267), swathed in clouds, inviting
and eateries combine to which offers a glimpse of a sandy beaches, and some
make it one of the most traditional Peranakan house. of the best diving and
visited places in the country. Peranakan culture resulted snorkeling in Malaysia.
White-sand beach framed by forested hills on Pulau Langkawi

EASTERN AND CENTRAL

PENINSULA
TTrekking in Taman
T Negara
Picturesque Perhentian
Islands
Riding the Jungle Railway
This regions appeal lies in

its spectacular natural beauty.
It is also the area that is most
Malay in character, with
Kelantan and Terengganu
being the repositories of
Malay culture and artistry. A boatman steers his way across the waters, Taman
T Negara
Nature-lovers flock to
T
Taman Negara (see pp1389), fish, are increasing in The train stops at tiny
Malaysias oldest and biggest popularity with divers and towns along the way and its
national park, to view its snorkelers. For the moment, passengers are mostly local
wildlife, climb mountains, however, they still evoke a villagers. A ride along the
and take trips on Sungai sensation of getting away railroads length provides a
Tembeling. Less visited than from it all. Also an experi- perfect introduction to the
other national parks, Endau- ence is a boat trip on the 12 hospitality of the Malays.
Rompin National Park (see interlocking lakes that con-
p137), a huge tract of pro- stitute TTasik Chini (see p136).
tected rainforest, offers the Kota Bharu (see pp1467) 7 SARAWAK
chance to escape the crowds. and Kuala Terengganu
T
Visitors come here to see (see p141) are centers of Historic Kuching
the hornbills, mouse deer, local handicrafts. They also Encounters with
wild pigs, and tree frogs boast some of Malaysias orangutans
that inhabit the area. best street markets and Visiting a longhouse
Small offshore islands, offer delicious Malay cuisine. Superb national parks
such as the Perhentian A wonderful way to
Islands (see p142) and Pulau explore this remote region Located in Malaysian Borneo,
Redang (see p142), which are is on the Jungle Railway (see Sarawak is Malaysias largest
surrounded by colorful coral p149), which runs between state and a prime destination
reefs and shoals of tropical Gemas and Kota Bharu. for nature-lovers, as well as
those with an interest in the
history of the region or the
traditions of its indigenous
communities. Kuching
(see pp1547), the capital,
is undoubtedly one of Asias
most intriguing cities, and its
town center still has many
well-preserved colonial
buildings and monuments,
including the Sarawak
Museum (see p154), the
Courthouse (see p155),
and the Astana (see p157).
Kuching is also ideally
situated to explore the rest
of the state. Just a short day
trip away are Semenggoh
Nature Reserve (see p161)
and Bako National Park (see
pp1623), with easy walking
trails and an abundance of
wildlife. A visit to the long-
houses of the indigenous
people of Sarawak is another
highlight and day trips and
overnight stays are easily
Shophouses lining Jalan Carpenter in Kuching, the capital of Sarawak organized in Kuching. A trip
D I S C O V E R I N G M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E 11
to a longhouse includes a
journey by longboat along
the mighty Batang Rajang
(see p164), which is the only
way to reach the settlements.
Some of Sarawaks most
spectacular attractions are
scattered in the northeast
of the state and are best
accessed from the town of
Miri (see p168). Among these
are the Niah Caves National
Park (see p168) and Mulu
National Park (see pp170
71), These are sites of some
of the worlds biggest caves,
which are also of archaeo-
logical significance. Mulu
National Park offers treks to
the limestone Pinnacles and
the summit of Gunung Mulu. A view of Singapore harbor and city
The remote Kelabit
Highlands (see p169) have rafting, especially on the
some of the most unspoilt Padas River (see p181). SINGAPORE
natural beauty in Sarawak. On the east coast are
While in the region, curious excellent opportunities for Visiting historic buildings
travelers might like to visit wildlife-watching. Visitors Shopping on Orchard Road
the tiny Sultanate of Brunei can observe green and Sentosa Island
(
(pp1723 ), with its glittering hawksbill turtles laying their Dining at Boat Quay
mosques, deserted beaches, eggs at the Turtle
T Island
and unspoilt interior. National Park (see pp190 While Malaysias main draw is
91), orangutans at Sepilok its natural wonders, the attrac-
Orangutan Rehabilitation tions of Singapore are mostly
SABAH Center (see p190), and an man-made. The citys skyline
amazing variety of fauna at gleams with tall skyscrapers
Climbing Gunung Kinabalu the Kinabatangan Wildlife giving one the impression of
Fantastic dive sites Sanctuary (see p191). Wild- modernity and sophistication.
Rewarding wildlife watching life-watching and thrilling Its history is reflected in the
treks are also possible at many buildings which fill the
Nicknamed the Land below Danum Valley (see p192). Colonial Core, among them
the Wind, Sabah lacks the Off the states east coast, the world-famous Raffles
historic monuments of Pulau Sipadan (see pp1945) Hotel (see pp21415). A more
Sarawak, but makes up for and Pulau Lankayan (see contemporary attraction is the
this with a rich mosaic of p191) are some of the best nearby Esplanade Theaters
ethnic groups, an exciting dive sites in the world. on the Bay (see p210). The
choice of adventure activities, Thian Hock Keng Temple
T (see
and a sophisticated capital pp2223) in Chinatown, Sri
in Kota Kinabalu (see p178). Srinivasa Perumal Temple
T (see
Sabahs principal attraction pp23031) in Little India, and
is Kinabalu National Park (see the Islamic Kampung Glam
p1847), which encompasses (see pp2267) are also fre-
Malaysias highest peak. quently visited. The shops,
While some visitors attempt temples, and mosques in
to conquer Kinabalu, others these areas are a major draw
are content to simply enjoy for visitors. For day trips,
the refreshing breezes and there are plenty of offshore
abundance of rare plants islands, the most popular
on its slopes. being the island theme park
Kota Kinabalu is also the of Sentosa (see pp2445).
access point for the Tunku
T A visit to Singapore would
Abdul Rahman National Park hardly be complete without
(see p179), made up of five a shopping spree, especially
beautiful islands whose coral at Orchard Road (see pp232
reefs are rich with marine 5), or without indulging in
life. Other popular activities Orangutan at the Semenggoh its fabulous food scene, from
include exciting white-water Nature Reserve hawker stalls to chic eateries.
12 I N T R O D U C I N G M A L AY S A A N D S I N G A P O R E
#VLJU,BZV
#V
Putting Peninsular 0 %2,) 3 b
)JUBN
UB
Malaysia on the Map ,VBMB

1FSMJT
4(!),!.$
NJ J +JUSB
Bordered by Thailand to the b
north and connected to Singapore J b

a
,VBMMB
in the south by a causeway and a ,FEBII "MPS4UBS
" 4U
bridge, Peninsular Malaysia occupies +%$!( 9! , !
the extreme south of mainland Southeast Asia,
lying between 2 and 7 degrees north of the
Equator. Off the west coast is the Strait of
Malacca, while the east coast looks out
onto the South China Sea. The majority #VUUFSXPSUI
#V XPS
N
of Malaysias 25 million inhabitants
live on the peninsula, heavily con-
centrated on the west coast, which b
4FMBNB
includes the capital Kuala Lumpur. A 1BEBOH(FSVTT
1BEBOH(F
mountainous ridge runs down the center of
the peninsula, separating the densely forested 0%2!+
and sparsely populated east coast from the west.
b
,VBMB
,BOHTB
,BOHTBS
H
*QPI
I b
a b
#SJODIBOH
D
DIBOH
#BUV
V(
(BKBI
1VMBV ,BNQBS
BNQB
N
1BOHLPS Ja 5BQBI
5BQ
/035
)4
,VBMB4FMBOH
OHPS
HPS
Satellite view of Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo
ALAYSIAN BORNEO 1BOUJOH

1B
1BOUJ
4 P V U I $ I J O B
4U
SB
JU

- ! , ! 9 3 ) !
,VBMB---VNQVS
V
TFFQBHFo
Fo
"/2.%/
) . $ / . % 3 ) ! %VNBJ b
0 km
) . $ /
b
%VSJ
PUTTING M A L AY S I A AND SINGAPORE ON THE MAP 13
4!)7!.
# ( ) .!
/
/B
/BSBUIXBU 4PVUI$IJOB4FB
0(),)00).%3
0(
(),)0
, 00)
0).%
).%
). %
5VN
VNQB
NQBU
N QBU
QB
BU
,P
,PU
,PUB#IBSV
1BTJS.BT
1BT
T .
TJS.
.BT
B a
1FSIFOUJBO
1
J *
*TMBOET
1
1VMBV
3
3FEBOH
J
b b
!534
534
342!,)!
,
,FNVCV ,V
,VBMB5FSFOHHBOV
b
a
b
J
#FSUBN .B
. BSBOH
B
+%,!.4!.
+ ,!.
.4!
3B
3BOUBV"CBOH
4%2%.'
4
4%2%.
%2%. '!. 5 b
%VOHVO
%
b (VB.VTBOH
V b
J 1
1VMBV5FOHHPM
.
.FSBQPI ,
,FSUFI
0 km 50
+F
MBJ
- ! , !9 3 ) ! 0 miles 50
,VBMB-JQJT
5F
LB
J
0!(
0!(!.'
(!
KEY

,VBMB5FNCFMJOH
, NCF
FM OH
H $I
$IFSBUJOH
b
N International airport

b
a Domestic airport
+FSBOUVU
a b
J Ferry port
b
3BVC
V
Highway
Major road
Railroad
International border
State border
6"-"
.1633 b
.VBE[BN
.VBE[
1F
FUBMJOH
FU BMJO 4IBI
BI
.%'%2)
2) b
,PUB#BIBHJB
UB
B #BI
BIBHJB 1VMBV5JPNBO
N 3P Ja
NQ
JO
(FNBT
FN
N 4FHBNBUU
4FHB
1PS
PSUU b
b
%JDLTPO
O -BCJT
-B C J
+BTJO
TJO
J b
P 5BOHLBL
b 1VMBV5JOHHJ
G 4 ,BIBOH
BI 1VMBV4JCV
. * / ( / 2
BM ,F
,FMVBOH
BD b
5FMVLMFDBO
5F DB "JS)JUBN
S)JUBN
b
b
/0
#BUV
B 35
)
1BIBU
1BI
BI U
1VMBV
1VMBV#FOHLBMJT a
1POUJBO,FD
,FDJM
DJM
. % 3 ) ! ,VLV
VQ
1VMBV,VLVQ N
Putting Malaysian Borneo on the Map

Generally referred to as East Malaysia, Malaysian Borneo comprises the
states of Sarawak, the largest in Malaysia, and Sabah, which together
occupy more than half of the countrys 127,445 sq miles (330,000 sq km).
The states are located in the northern part of Borneo, the worlds third-
largest island, which they share with tiny Brunei and Kalimantan,
Indonesia. Borneo lies about 373 miles (600 km) east of Peninsular
Malaysia, from which it is separated by the South China Sea. The region
is rich in natural resources, particularly oil and gas, and much of it is
covered by rain forest and is sparsely populated. Of a population
of 5 million people, most live in the provincial capitals, Kuching
in Sarawak and Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, while many indigenous
communities occupy remote outposts in the interior of the states.
,VBMB
#FMBJU
a
b
Astronauts photograph of Gaya Bay, Kota Kinabalu

.JSJJ
4VBJ
4VB
BJ
4PVUI$IJOB4FB
Ja
-BCBOH
BOH
O
a
a #FM
#FMBHB
MBHB
B
"O
b b
BQ
3B
a 3 ! 2 !7! + a
3VNBI,BN
I,BN
4PO - ! , ! 9 3 ) !
b
a ,BQJU
b
,BQ
J ,BCPOH
OH
H
3VNBI#FTJ
#F J
4BOUV
4BOUVCPOH
N
BN
).$/.%3)!
BL
BI
.
/BIBCVBO
I b
PUTTING M A L AY S I A AND SINGAPORE ON THE MAP 15
KEY
N International airport 0 km 25
a Domestic airport 0 miles 25

J Ferry port
Major road
Minor road
Railroad
4VMV
State border 4FB
a
1
1VMBV+BNCPOHBO
1VMBV
a -BOHLBZBO
HLB
J
J N a J
BOE
BOEBLBO
"CBJ
"CB
"CBJ
-BCVBO J
,FOJO
,FOJOHBV
a b
b
b
a
5FOPN b
a
1VMBV
4JQBEBO
a
#FOVBOH
O OHH
a
-POHIPVTF
TF
5S V T B O
-
-POHLJIBO -"52/.'
'
0 miles
-POHJTVO
TV
b
b -POHCPI
Landscape and Wildlife

Although separated by the South China Sea, Peninsular
Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo form a part of the
Sunda Shelf, a tectonic plate that once joined them in
a single land mass. As a result, they share many geo-
logical features such as mountains, river networks,
pristine offshore islands, and some of the worlds
oldest rain forests. These rain forests provide a habitat
for a wealth of flora and fauna, including more than
15,000 types of flowering plants and nearly 200,000
species of animals. Among these are well-known
endemic species, such as the orangutan, proboscis
monkey, and rafflesia. Singapore retains pockets of
primary rain forest in its northern region, while three- The tualang tree, one of the tallest
quarters of Brunei is still covered by native forest. plants in Malaysia
RAIN FORESTS LIMESTONE OUTCROPS

The rain forests of Malaysia are about 130 Many of Malaysias mountains are formed of
million years old and nurture a phenomenal limestone, often rising dramatically out of the
range of plant life, from the 262-ft (80-m) tall surrounding plain and containing massive
tualangg tree to an array of ferns, mosses, cave networks caused by erosion. The most
fungi, and orchids. They also provide a spectacular limestone outcrops are found in
home for orangutans, proboscis monkeys, Sarawaks Niah Caves (see p168) and in
tapirs, binturongs or Malay civet cats, and Gunung Mulu National Park (see pp17071).
honey bears, as well as hundreds of species
of birds and butterflies.
Bats, such as
Malaysian tapirs the wrinkle-
are distinguished by lipped bat, are
their black and white common residen
coloring and pig-like of limestone cav
snout. These vegetarian Each evening,
mammals are most millions of bats
active at night. flight, filling the
with a fantastic
Cave swiftlets are

orangutan is unusual birds that
only great ape use echolocation to
und outside Africa. navigate the pitch-
hese red-haired dark interiors of the
rimates now face caves. White nest
extinction and swiftlets are prized in
are rarely seen Malaysia for their
n the wild. edible nests.
A P O R T R A I T O F M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E 17
MALAY A SIAS ENDANGERED SPECIES

Malaysias population has doubled since the 1970s, and the
growing demand for living space is gradually destroying the
habitat of several wildlife species. In greatest danger is the
Sumatran rhinoceros, whose numbers are now thought to be
fewer than 100. Several other species, including the clouded
leopard, Asian elephant, and the countrys national animal,
the tiger, have also seen a dramatic decline. Among marine
life, leatherback turtles and
dugongs face a similar threat.
The Sumatran rhinoceros
Clouded leopards, tawny or is critically endangered.
silver-colored cats, are hunted Its last remaining habitats
for their pelt, teeth, and bones, include Sabah and
the latter being used in Endau-Rompin National
tra
r ditional Asian medicines. Park (see p137).
COASTAL PLAINS OFFSHORE ISLANDS

The west coast of Peninsular Malaysia The seas around both Peninsular Malaysia
constitutes a long plain that provides an and Malaysian Borneo are studded with
ideal environment for human inhabitation. stunning islands, many of them surrounded
These plains were the site of the earliest by coral reefs that sustain an incredible
British settlements. Most of the countrys wealth of marine life. Divers are drawn to
important towns and cities, such as Kuala islands such as Tioman and Sipadan to
Lumpur, were established here. observe the thriving underwater world.
Mangroves are trees Dugongs take their

and shrubs that form name from the Malay
swampy forests in word duyung, which
saline coastal waters means mermaid.
and provide a vital Persistent hunting has
habitat for a number of resulted in the near
wildlife species such as extinction of these large
the proboscis monkey. sea mammals.
Fiddler crabs are critical to the

hey help Coral reefs, formed
by their by tiny marine ani-
g action. mals called polyps
les have and other organisms,
ymmetrical aree beautiful living
nd often structures. They are
rightly- essential to the preser-
r
lored claws. vation of marine life.
Marine Life
he waters around both Peninsular
Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo contain a
huge diversity of marine life that attracts
divers and snorkelers from around the
world to gaze at brilliantly colored
parrotfish, lionfish, and clownfish flitting
Sea slug around the vibrant coral reefs. For
much of the year, the superb clarity of
the water makes it easy to spot even the tiniest fish.
The Malaysian government has designated 38 of its
coral islands as protected areas to preserve their
unique and biologically sensitive ecosystems.
Snorkeler examining underwater
life on a coastal reef
Sea anemones, named for a species of garden flower,

are brightly colored, predatory animals that eat fish,
mussels, and zooplankton.
CORAL LIFE
Over 350 species of coral have been identified in
Malaysian waters, making the countrys reefs some of
the most diverse in the world. Sadly, they are under
threat from sediment build-up caused by ongoing
logging, blast and cyanide fishing, and anchoring.
Gorgonian fan
corals reach up to
16.5 ft (5 m) in
height in the warm
waters of the
tropics, filtering are usually
Brain corals The star coralhas a
out the plankton found in colonies and bear stone-like calcium
and zooxanthellae an uncanny resemblance skeleton and star-
to the human brain. shaped polyp.
on which they live.
Yellow soft corals, so called because of their lack of a hard Sunflower corals have long polyps
external skeleton, have polyps with eight tentacles, and come tipped with stinging tentacles to
in a stunning kaleidoscope of colors. catch plankton.
Mandarin fish live camouflaged in broken coral

bottoms eating small crustaceans called copepods.
Coleman shrimp, always found in pairs, live The male is larger than the female and has a spiked
on the toxic fire urchin. They clear a resting dorsal fin which it uses to threaten other males.
area of poisonous spines and sit protected
from predators. Clownfish live in
symbiotic relatio
Sea ferns are a with sea anemon
type of gor- which defend
gonian coral them from
with varied
predatory fish.
shapes and
he lionfish, a
eef dweller of
spectacular
appearance, is a
deadly killer, armed
with venomous
spines that it uses to
un small fish.
Sea horses aree unusual

in that it is the males
that give birth. Many
species are almost trans-
parent and hard to
spot. Their use in
Chinese medicine has
put them under threat
of extinction.
Lettuce coralis named for its green

color and spiraling plates that TURTLE CONSERVAT A ION
resemble a growing lettuce. Until recently, turtles were
among the most conspicuous
forms of marine life in Malaysia.
Of the four species of turtle
known to breed in these waters
the green, the hawksbill, the
olive ridley, and the leatherback
only the green is now com-
monly seen and the leatherback
r
is an endangered species. There
is ample evidence that human
intervention is destroying the
habitat and damaging the life Green turtle swimming in the
cycle of these turtles. Throughout warm waters near Malaysia
their lives, adult turtles are prone
to getting caught in fishing lines and nets, while the
increasing development of beaches has adverse effects on
Shoals of big-eye trevallies in the numbers of nesting females, eggs, and hatchlings.
the South China Sea
Peoples of Malaysia and Singapore

The indigenous people of Malaysia settled in the region
some 40,000 years ago. Owing to its key position on
maritime trade routes from around 2,500 years ago, the
region acquired a large immigrant population. Today,
Malays form 51 percent of the countrys 27 million
inhabitants, with the Chinese making up about a
quarter, and the Indians, about 7 percent. Indigenous
groups comprise the remainder of the population.
By contrast, the Chinese form a strong majority in A group of Orang Asli, the
Singapore, where there are fewer Malays and Indians. indigenous people of Malaysia
THE MALAY
The largest ethnic group of Malaysia is, by definition, a Muslim
group. Believed to have arrived on the peninsula from Sumatra,
the Malays began converting to Islam in the 15th century,
owing to the rise of the Malay sultanates. Today, they predom-
inate on the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia, while in
Singapore, they constitute about 14 percent of the population.
Malays celebrate
Hari Raya Puasa, also
known as Hari Raya
Aidilfitri (see p52), Traditional Malay culture revolves
the Muslim New around village compounds called
Year. Here, men are kampung, where inhabitants
dressed in traditional farm, fish, and practice crafts.
Malaysian finery at a Today, many Malays have
formal reception. migrated to urban centers.
THE CHINESE
Originally from southern China, most Chinese immigrants
arrived in Malaysia during the 19th century to work as
laborers in the burgeoning tin-mining industry.
hen, they have dominated all aspects of
ommerce and today, Malaysia has several
Chinatowns, where Chinese businesses
thrive. In Singapore, more than three-
quarters of the population is Chinese.
The Peranakans, also known as Straits Chinese traders can be seen selling
Chinese or Baba-Nonya, are a community artifacts in Kuala Lumpur.
m The
born out of marriages between Chinese Chinese have historically played a
and Malays from the 16th century onwards. major role in the Malaysian economy.
m
SOUTH ASIANS
Indians have been trading with Malaysia for over 2,000 years.
However, most Malaysians of Indian origin settled here, like
the Chinese, during the 19th century. Although the immigrants
came largely from southern India, there are also people of
northern Indian descent, notably the Sikhs.
Asian women of
Indian descent sell
vibrantly colored
handmade silk at
market stalls in Kuala A rubber tapper of south
Lumpur.
m The ethnic Indian origin collects latex
enclave of Little India from a rubber tree. Indians
(see p70) is packed have also traditionally been
with such stalls. employed
m on tea estates.
INDIGENOUS PEOPLES OF MALAYSIA

The indigenous peoples of Peninsular Malaysia, the Orang Asli,
are among the minority of the peninsulas population, and gener-
ally live in its more inaccessible areas. In contrast, indigenous
tribes make up half the population of Sarawak and 66 percent
of Sabah. Many of these groups, including the Iban and Bidayuh
of Sarawak, live in longhouses and hold animist beliefs. Some,
like the Kelabit and Bajau, have converted to Christianity or
Islam. The tribes of Sabah, such as the Kadazan Dusun, are
traditionally agriculturalists, but most other groups were semi-
nomadic hunter-gatherer communities. They are now being The Bajau are predominantly
encouraged by the government to live in towns and villages. Muslim and are the second largest
ethnic group in Sabah. Noted horse-
The Penan, the only true men, the Bajau dress in elaborate
nomadic indigenous group costumes at the annual Tamu
in Malaysia, are skilled Besar in Kota Belud (see p53).
hunter-gatherers. The
Penan consist of about
10,000 individuals who live
in the upper Rajang and
Limbang areas of Sarawak.
The Rungus are an indigenous

The Kadazan Dusun are the largest people of northern Sabah. They
ethnic group in Sabah, made up of a are skilled in beadwork, weaving,
number of subgroups,
b constituting and gong-making. Rungus people
about 25 percent of Sabahs live communally in longhouses
population. They traditionally wear around Kudat (see p183).
black silk outfits on festive occasions
such as the Dusun Harvest Dance.
The Bidayuh, or Land

Dayaks, build their
longhouses on hillside
rather than near wate
as the other groups in n
Sarawak do. The third ame
largest of Sarawaks
indigenous peoples, the erse
predominantly inhabit
the region around iving
Kuching (see p159). wak.
BUMIPUTRAS
The Malaysian authorities make an important
distinction between migrant peoples and the
bumiputra, or sons of the soil. The latter group
includes all Malays and indigenous peoples of
the country. This recognition was brought in as
part of the New Economic Policy, following
race riots in 1969, to boost the bumiputrass eco-
nomic standing in society. Though it was much
criticized by the Chinese and Indian migrants
who then dominated commerce, the policy has The Iban, also known as Sea Dayaks, are
ultimately led to more stability as it gave rise to the largest ethnic group of Sarawak. They
a rich Malay group, whose financial interests lie have an enduring reputation as fierce
in maintaining political and economic harmony. warriors and good hunters. The men are
often heavily tattooed.
Islam
While Malaysia is home to people of many different
faiths, Islam is the official religion. So closely bound
is Malay cultural identity with Islam that the Bahasa
Malaysia phrase for adopting Islam, masok melayu,
means to become a Malay. Arab and Indian-Muslim
merchants, who doubled as missionaries, began con-
verting the local population from the 11th century
onwards. Most Malay Muslims are orthodox Sunnis of
the Shafii school but there are also smaller numbers
of Shia Muslims and Sufi mystics. Just over 60 percent
of Malaysias population is Muslim; in Singapore, they
form around 14 percent of the population. Domes are a characteristic
feature of all mosques. They
are generally onion-shaped
structures and are often
crowned by a crescent moon,
the universal symbol of Islam.
The courtyard of a mosque is designed to accommodate

a large number of worshipers. This courtyard at Johor
Bahrus Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque holds 2,000 people.
aret is a lofty tower usually

ed in one of the corners of a
ue. From here the muezzin, or
r to prayer, summons the
hful five times a day.
ISLAMIC ARCHITECTURE
Despite the flamboyant exteriors of
some Islamic architecture, its real
beauty lies in the inner spaces of the
courtyard and rooms. This has often
led to it being called the architecture
of the veil. With its gleaming golden
dome and striking minarets, Ubudiah
Mosque (right) in Kuala Kangsar is
among Malaysias finest mosques.
This crenellated arch

at Masjid Kapitan
Kling (see
( pp101)
in Georgetown,
Penang, is Moorish
in style, borrowing
from the architec-
tural tra
r dition of Colorful Islamic tilework is characterized by
Islamic Spain and intricate geometric patterns and graceful floral
the North African motifs. Traditional Malay Muslim houses and
Maghreb. mosques are adorned with these tiles.
P O R T R A I T O F M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E 23
ISLAMIC FAITH
Islam, which means submission to the will of God in Arabic, was first revealed
to the Prophet Muhammad at Mecca in Arabia, in AD 622. The principle of Islam
rests on an unshakeable faith in a single deity, Allah, and on his word delivered
by Muhammad in the Koran. The five pillars of Islamic faith are shahadah,
witnessing that there is only one God; salat, performing the five daily prayers;
sawm, fasting during the month of Ramadan; zakat, the giving of alms; and hajj,
or performing the pilgrimage to Mecca at least once in a lifetime.
The Koran is the central Salat is the

religious text of Islam, name given to
believed to be the the obligatory
inspired and immu- prayers that are
table Word of God. performed five
Divided into 114 units times a day. The faithful always pray in
and written in the the direction of Mecca. Salat is believed
Arabic script, it is often to establish a direct link between the
memorized verbatim worshiper and the worshiped.
by the faithful.
Wuzu is the first step

of the ablutions
performed before
commencing the salat.
This is an essential act of
spiritual and physical
cleansing, as no prayer
is acceptable
t without
the complete wuzu.
ISLAMIC ART
Architecture and calligraphy are the two most
distinctive and elegant art forms in Islam. Both have
developed to levels of great sophistication because of
the general prohibition of representational art forms.
The hadith, or T Traditions of the Prophet Muhammad,
decree that the house which contains pictures will
not be entered by the angels. Geometry also plays a
major role in both architecture and calligraphy.
The Jawi script is a Malay variant of Arabic

writing. It is one of the two official scripts in
Zapin iss a traditional Malay Brunei and is also used in Malaysia and
folk dance, with dancers Singapore, particularly in religious calligraphy.
usually perform
accompanied by I
tional chantin Batik, the art of wax-
have been introd resist dyeing on tex-
14th-century Mu tiles, is commonly used
missionaries fro to pattern garments
the Middle East, i such as sarongs with
is commonly bright designs. The
performed in most popular of such
Johor Bahru designs are floral
(see p128). prints (see p30).
Hinduism and Buddhism

Hinduism and Buddhism are the major religions of
Malaysia and Singapores South Asian and Chinese
communities respectively. Although Hinduism dates
back to at least 1,500 years in both countries, the
religion only took root when contract laborers
from India were recruited to work in rubber and
coffee plantations in Malaysia in the late 19th and
20th centuries. Buddhism became a permanent
feature in Malaysia and Singapore after Chinese
Figure at Sri immigrants spread the religion to every part Monk praying at a shrine of
Krishna Temple of the country in the 19th century. Kuan Yin, goddess of mercy
HINDUISM
Hinduism in Malaysia and Singapore, complete with its
many rituals and deities, is directly taken from Indian Statues of deities Fresh flower garlands
Hindu traditions, especially those of southern India from are enshrined at are used to venerate
where most Indian migrants originated. the central altar. the gods.
Devotees come Offerings may Hindu priests are

to temples for include flowers, Components Brahmins who
individual or incense, and of a prayer belong to the
communal puja, fruit such as ritual include highest of the four
or worship, ritual coconuts, which frankincense, main castes. They
occasions, and to are sprinkled myrrh, and tend to the temple
make offerings to with holy water other aromatic and officiate at
honor the gods. during prayers. combustibles. ceremonies.
SHAIVISM
Shaivism is a form of Hinduism which
worships Lord Shiva as the main manifes-
tation of the supreme being. His consort,
Parvati, and their two sons, Murugan and
Ganapati, are also worshiped by Shaivites.
Shaivism grew prominent in Malaysia and
The gopuram, or entrance Singapore as the Indian immigrants who
gateway to Hindu tem- settled there in the 19th century were
ples, is often multitiered mainly from southern India where the
and elegantly decorated worship of Shiva is popular. The Sri
with colorful sculptures Shivan temples in Singapore and Malaysia Vibrant portrait of
from the vast pantheon are especially revered by Shaivites. Lord Shiva
of Hindu gods.
BUDDHISM
In both Malaysia and Singapore the Chinese communities follow the
Mahayana school of Buddhism practiced in China, Japan, Korea, and
Vietnam. The Thais of Singapore and the Orang Syam, or indigenous
Thais of Malaysia, follow Theravada Buddhism, practiced in Thailand,
Lao PDR R (formerly Laos), Cambodia, Myanmar, and Sri Lanka. Buddhism
in both countries is a fusion of different beliefs. In Singapore it is
combined with Confucianism, T Taoism, and ancestor worship. Buddhism
is also personalized and centers around Kuan Y Yin, the goddess of mercy.
Belief in luck and filial piety are also central features of Buddhism.
Buddhist monks shave
The Buddhas halo, or their heads, wear saffron
nimbus, commonly robes, and generally go
depicted in Buddhist art, barefoot to indicate a life
signifies enlightenment
of austerity.
and spiritual development.
The Buddhas hair is generally

An urna, or a small arranged in the form of snail
protuberance between the shell curls, and surmounted
Buddhas eyes, represents by a ushnisa, or topknot.
the third eye of spiritual
vision, a mark of a holy man.
Elongated earlobes are

thought to be the result
The Buddha is often depicted of heavy earrings worn by
with a serene expression the Buddha as a prince.
and a faint smile.
A simple monks robe

represents the Buddhas
The wheel turning pose life of renunciation.
represents the Wheel of Law,
or dhammachakra, set in
motion by the Buddhas first
sermon at Sarnath, India.
The cross-legged posture

Bare feet with both soles
is the position in which
turned upward and resting Buddha is most commonly
on opposite thighs portrayed.
signifies meditation.
PRINCIPLES OF BUDDHISM
Despite the existence of two main schools and
different sects that have evolved over the
centuries, the central principles of
Buddhism are common to most
forms of the religion. These
include the Four Noble Truths,
T
the Eight Fold Path, karma, or
the moral law of cause and
effect, which is symbolized by
the Wheel of Law, and nirvana,
or enlightenment. The Mahayana,
Devout Buddhists burn incense and make or Greater Vehicle, school stresses Buddhist
offerings at temples across Malaysia and the role of the bodhisattva or Wheel of Law
Singapore to show respect to the Buddha, religious adept who, having
the sangha, or order of monks,
s and the gained nirvana, voluntarily renounces it to
dhamma, or teachings of the Buddhist enlighten others. The Theravada, or Lesser
cannon. Offerings often include fruit and Vehicle, school emphasizes the role of the arhat,
flowers. Worshipers usually ask for good or worthy one, who has attained nirvana.
health and prosperity.
Secular Architecture
The traditional vernacular architecture of
Malaysia and Singapore is mainly Malay
and Straits Chinese, but a strong colonial
influence is also apparent in buildings
constructed during periods of British,
Portuguese, and Dutch rule. In contrast,
both countries boast stunning modern
architecture, most prominently seen in their
soaring skyscrapers. This is particularly true The Singapore skyline is dominated by
of Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. spectacular high-rise buildings
STRAITS CHINESE Characteristic

Straits Chinese architecture centers Five Foot gabled roof
on the ubiquitous shophouse, found Way forming
throughout Malaysia and Singapore. a sheltered
Buildings of this style were introduced passage
(see p105)
by immigrants from the Guangdong
province of southern China.
Classic shophouses
comprise a ground floor,
whose street-facing portion
Flower motif on is used to conduct business,
a Peranakan and upper floors that serve
shophouse tile. as living quarters.
TRADITIONAL MALAY HOUSE

The traditional Malay house tends to be raised
on stilts, with extensions added when necessary.
The house is centered around the rumah ibu,
The interiors are ventilated by many

open spaces such as verandas and
windows. Traditionally, the houses have
Stilts that protect the house from floods wooden walls and thatched roofs.
LONGHOUSES
Indigenous peoples of Sabah and Living quarters Bamboo and rattan,
Sarawak traditionally live in occupied by the traditional
Open veranda
longhouse communities (see p167), individual families building materials
or tanju
with each family occupying a
separate apartment under a singl
contiguous roof. The entire
structure is raised on stilts.
Longhouses commonly have a

covered veranda, or ruai, which
runs the length of the building,
backed by a series of living
quarters, or bileks. There is also Shaded area used as shelter
a tanju, or open veranda. for domestic animals
MINANGKABAU Wide eaves for protection Wooden shingles used in

The spectacular architecture
of the Minangkabau people,
concentrated in the state of
Negeri Sembilan, is chiefly
distinguished by upswept
roofs rising to pointed peaks
that represent the horns of
a victorious buffalo, or
minangkabau (see p121).
Traditionally, the roofs were
T
thatched with the fronds of the
nipa palm, but today they are a g abau ouses, o u a
more usually shingled, or even minangkabau, are recognizable by Windows permitting
made from galvanized iron. the distinctive style of their roofs. air circulation
COLONIAL BUILDINGS
Colonial buildings in both Malaysia and Singapore
combine British Indian, Dutch East Indian, and
Portuguese styles, often combined with indigenous
Malay elements, Islamic motifs, and classical
European flourishes. Elaborate decorations and
wooden traceries lend individuality and style.
Mock-Tudor
T bungalows are not
uncommon in the hill stations of
Peninsular Malaysia. These were built
by British plantation owners.
The Raffles Hotel in Singapore dates

from 1887 and is named after
Sir Stamford Raffles, the founder
of Singapore (see pp21415).
Grand entrance portico It is the epitome of colonial elegance.
MODERN ARCHITECTURE The 1,483-ft (452-m) tall

Both Malaysia and Singapore are Petronas towers
distinguished by their steel and concrete
skyscrapers, often with faades of light- Tower consisting of 88 floors,
T
and heat-reflecting mirrored glass. While 10 escalators, and 76 elevators
contemporary buildings in Malaysia
incorporate elements of traditional Islamic Skybridge connecting the towers
architecture, Singaporean designs remain at 558 ft (170 m) off the ground
entirely modernistic.
The Petronas
T
Towers are
Malaysias
famous modern
structures. Until
recently, they
The futuristic Esplanade Theaters on the Bay, with twin were also the
domes (see p210), adds to Singapores ultramodern worlds tallest
tyscapee, in contrast with the citys traditional Indian,
city buildings
Chinese, and colonial architecture. (see p72).
Festivals of Malaysia and Singapore

Life in Malaysia and Singapore is punctuated
with festivals, which are both frequent and
spectacular. Although some festivals have a fixed
date according to the international calendar, the
Malay Muslim, Hindu, and Chinese traditions all
set their festive days according to the lunar
calendar (see p333), making these celebrations
movable events. Fortunately, the Malaysia and
Singapore tourist boards regularly publish
calendars of national and local festivals. Giant banners in ab ndance marking the
The
bea
wea
The
pred
gold
pro
Sev
bod
may
drag
The traditional dinner with the entire family
is perhaps the most important aspect of the
celebrations at the New Year, which is also
considered the time for new beginnings.
CHINESE NEW YEAR

The most significant festival for the Chinese is
the Lunar New Year.
Y In Singapore and in
some parts of Malaysia, such as Kuala
Lumpur, Ipoh, Taiping, and Johor Bahru, this
15-day festival is marked by chingay, a joyous
street parade with lion dancers, stilt-walkers,
giant banners, music, and colorful floats.
Almost all the festival rituals are focused on
bringing good luck and prosperity.
The leader of the team must be the most
skilled and experienced of the dancers
as the others follow him.
The display of fireworks in the night skies The lion dance is a traditional dance form that dates
above the Petronas Towers is a spectacular back more than a thousand years. A pair of dancers
highlight of the extravagant New Years trained in martial arts form the fore and hind legs
Eve celebrations in Kuala Lumpur. of the lion, mimicking its motions.
HARI RAYA PUASA

For Malay Muslims, the most important
festival of the year is Hari Raya Puasa,
also known as Aidilfitri in Malay, mark-
ing the end of the fasting month of
Ramadan. Throughout the ninth month
of the Muslim calendar, believers abstain
from eating and drinking between sun-
rise and sunset. With the sighting of the
new moon on the 30th day of the ninth
month, Ramadan ends and the tenth
month is ushered in with feasting on
traditional fare such as ketupat or rice
Muslim men start the day by congregating at mosques for

morning prayers, dressed in their finest clothes. Graves are
cleaned and quarrels forgiven before the festivities begin.
Muslim children
light fire
r crackers
on Hari Raya
Puasa and are
given duit raya, or
gifts of money,
y in
small green
envelopes. For
three days,
family, friends,
and neighbors
visit each other.
THAIPUSAM
Celebrated by the southern Indian communities of
Malaysia and Singapore, Thaipusam honors the Hindu
god Murugan, youngest son of the gods Shiva and
Parvati. It is held in the Tamil month of Thai (between
January and February). The largest Thaipusam festival
takes place at the Batu Caves, with over one million dev-
otees and 10,000 tourists attending it. Worshipers shave
their heads and undertake a pilgrimage along a set route,
performing various acts of devotion along the way.
Kavadi carriers hold elaborately decorated metal

frames called kavadi. Adorned with peacock
feathers, these portable altars are attached to
devotees with skewers pierced into the skin.
The Batu Caves (see p90), dedicated to Lord

Murugan, are one of the prime pilgrimage sites
for Malaysias Hindus. A spectacular scene
unfolds here during Thaipusam, when an
estimated one million pilgrims climb the 272
steps to the temple at the summit.
Arts and Crafts of Malaysia

Malaysia has a wealth of indigenous artistic traditions,
many dating back centuries, but its arts and crafts
have also been enriched by the cultural influences of
Chinese, Indians, and other peoples. While Peninsular
Malaysia excels at metalwork, Malaysian Borneo
produces the most spectacular woodcarvings. Besides
pottery, ceramic, brass, and silverware, a wide range
of regional artistry, such as kite-making in Kota
Bharu, is available. The country has a flourishing art
scene, influenced by Hindu, Buddhist, Islamic, and Labu sayong water pots from
Chinese cultures, and more recently by Western art. Sayong, near Kuala Kangsar
MALAYASIAN TEXTILES
Batik, which means writing in wax, is extremely popular
in Malaysia, forming part of the Malay national dress.
Among the best places to buy traditional batikk is Kuching
in Sarawak. The countrys textile traditions also encom-
pass fine silk and cotton cloth originally created for the
royal courts. These include kain lemar, or silk brocade
interwoven with ikat; kain sutera, or woven silk; kain
songket, or rich brocade; and kain mastuli, or heavy silk.
Ikat cloth is made

using a tie-and-dye
technique on the
threads before they
are woven into
elaborate patterns.
Today, the best
ikat,
t such as this
decorative Iban
blanket, comes
from Sarawak.
Batik motifs are Melted wax is applied to

usually floral or the cloth to prevent dyes
geometric. from penetrating.
Pua kumbu cloths are woven by the Iban for use in

ceremonies and for decoration. Weaving is done
primarily by women and the motif they use once
showed their status. Today, motifs vary from plant
and animal themes to more abstract patterns.
SONGKET SILK
The term songkett is derived from the Malay menyongket,
which means to embroider with silver or gold thread. The
metallic thread inserted between the silk strands stands out
on the background cloth, creating a shimmering effect.
Kain sutera
is a type of
songket used
for sarongs
traditionally Kain mastuli is a rich and heavy
worn on formal variety of songket silk thread that is
or ceremonial used when making traditional
occasions. garments and decorative fabrics.
WOODCARVING
Malaysian Borneo boasts the best and most varied forms
of woodcarving in the country. Indigenous people of the
region are known for their carving of spirit and totem
figures, masks, and good luck charms.
Elaborate wooden
masks are carved
by the indigenous
Malay woodcarvers work deftly and
peoples of Malaysian
with confident speed. Some of the best Borneo to fend off
are found in Kuching and Kota Bharu. evil and bad luck.
This gilt carving

of a bat on the
window frame
of a Malaccan
house is a
Peranakan
symbol of good
fortune.
A tribal grave po
with a totem
figure is displaye
at Kuching
Sarawak Museum
Intricately carved shields were traditionally carried by

Iban warriors into battle. The heavy wooden shields were
often decorated with hideous faces to demoralize foes.
METALW
L ORK Brass is used for
Traditional Malaysian silverware and jewelry has making household,
been influenced by the Peranakan. Metalware decorative, and
produced and sold in the markets of Penang, ceremonial objects.
Malacca, and Kuching often shows considerable This brass screen
southern Indian influence. The products include in Kuala Lumpurs
gongs produced in Sumangkap (see p182), a Sri Kanthaswamy
range of brass items, and keris. Hindu Temple
shows the intricate
detailing that is
typical of Malaysian
craftsmanship.
Keris, or
daggers, are
weapons unique Silver
to Malay cul- fines
ture. They are pr
said to possess Kelan
magical powers Tere
that protect their Malays
owners and ware is k
bring death to its intric
enemies. work
I N T R O D U C I N G M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E 33
THE HISTORY OF MALAYSIA

AND SINGAPORE
T
he early history of the Malay peninsula is shrouded in
mystery. But records of the subsequent centuries depict a
great trading nation beleaguered by foreign invaders
attracted by its abundant natural wealth and strategic position
between the key maritime trade centers of India and China.
Following their independence, Malaysia and Singapore have rapidly
emerged as models of economic progress and modernization.
The discovery, in 1958, of as suvarnabhumi, or the
a human skull at Niah land of gold, from as early
Caves in Sarawak and on as 200 BC. The growth
stone tools from Perak of trade relations with
point towards human India brought the coastal
occupation of the region peoples of the Strait of
as far back as 40,000 BC. Perak Man, reconstruction Malacca into contact with
at Lenggong museum
Findings of pottery and Buddhism and Hinduism,
stone objects from both the as well as with Indian notions of
peninsula and Malaysian Borneo, kingship. For example, the Malay
dating between 2800 and 500 BC, word for ruler, rajah, was borrowed
prove the existence of a Neolithic from Sanskrit. Significant archaeo-
culture in this region. logical finds, such as Sanskrit
Although few iron and bronze inscriptions and Hindu and Buddhist
objects have been found in Malaysia, statues (especially in Kedah in
evidence in the form of huge Bronze northwest Malaysia), suggest that
Age Dongson drums links Peninsular Indian influence was well-estab-
Malaysia to northern Vietnam at lished in a number of settlements
around 500300 BC. The drums, along the west coast of the peninsula
together with beads and pottery by the 5th century AD.
from India and China also found on Chinese trade was significant too,
the peninsula and dating back to the beginning from the 2nd century,
same time, indicate that international via the Cambodian kingdom of
trade networks were already well- Funan which extended its influence
established and foreign goods were into the norther n peninsula.
being exchanged for the regions The growing use of the sea to
rich resources, including tin, gold, transport goods from western Asia
aromatic woods, and spices. So rich to China gave further impetus to
was this trade that the Indians seem the emergence of port kingdoms
to have referred to the peninsula in the Malaysian world.
TIMELINE
Stone Age tools,
Lenggong Museum 500300 BC Period of the Bronze Age AD 400500 Increas-
Dongson culture in northern Vietnam ing Southeast Asian
trade with China
40,0002800 BC AD 199 Kingdom of Funan
Prehistoric Age established in the lower Mekong Delta
2000 BC 1000 BC 0 AD 200 AD 400
200 BC Maritime trade links Dongson drum
2800500 BC established between India and
Neolithic Age Southeast Asia; Hindu influences
begin to spread across the regio
Panoramic Sketch of Prince of Wales Island

d by William Daniell, 1821
SRIVIJAYA
The first of the port kingdoms to
become a great pan-Malay confed-
eration was the Hindu-Buddhist,
maritime trade-based empire of
Srivijaya. It emerged in the course of
the 7th century and established
its capital near Palembang in south-
eastern Sumatra.
Srivijaya evolved into a wealthy and
powerful Malay kingdom, dominating
maritime passages around the Strait
Arrival of Arab merchants and missionaries in SE Asia
of Malacca and the Sunda Strait
(between Java and Sumatra), as well time, the increasing presence of
as the overland portage routes across Chinese ships encouraged Srivijayas
Peninsular Malaysia as far north as v a s s a l s t o b r e a k a w a y f r o m
Nakhon Si Thammarat in present- Palembangs grip. By the late-13th
day Thailand. From its strategic century, the Thai kingdoms of
position, Srivijaya was able to attract Sukhothai and Ayutthaya had
and monopolize overseas commerce acquired considerable influence over
between India and China, acting as a the peninsula, as had the Hindu
great entrept for Southeast Asian Majapahit empire of Java over
shipping as well as a source for rare southeast Sumatra.
and valuable goods, from scented
woods to gold. THE SPREAD OF ISLAM
The rulers of Srivijaya developed Islam came to Southeast Asia as a
methods of government which became religion of trade, not one of conquest.
popular with succeeding kingdoms Introduced by Arab merchants and
such as Malacca. Paramoun missionaries around the 11th
among these concepts was century, the religion spread
complete loyalty to the ruler, rapidly across Peninsular
who was associated with Malaysia with Indian-Muslim
divine powers disloyalty traders. The Terengganu
was severely punished. While Stone, discovered in the pen-
a mixture of Hinduism insulas northeastern province
Buddhism, and indigenou in 1899, bears an inscription
spirit belief was practiced in in the Malay Arabic script,
Srivijaya, it gained prominence Terengganu Stone suggesting that Islamic law
as a center of Buddhist learning. was established here as early as 1303.
Srivijaya prospered until the 11th However, Islam received its greatest
century, after which it began to boost when it was made state religion
decline, weakened by wars both with of the Sultanate of Malacca in the
Java and the south Indian Chola 15th century. Spreading to the far-
kingdom. The power of the Hindu- thest corners of the Malaccan empire,
Buddhist rajahs was also being Islam gradually came to be associated
undermined by Islam. At the same with the national identity of Malays.
TIMELINE
Illustration 1000s With the arrival

depicting of Arab merchants, Islam
700s Golden medieval Arab spreads throughout
age of Srivijaya merchants the region
AD 700 AD 850 AD 1000

9921016 Wars between 1025 Raids by
Thai Srivijaya styl Srivijaya and Java Chola kings
Boddhisattva
T H E H I S T O R Y O F M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E 35
THE RISE OF MALACCA

Around 1400, Parameswara, the
prince of Palembang, attempted
to throw off Javanese domi-
nation over his realm by fleeing
to Tumasik in present-day
Singapore, before finally estab-
lishing a new kingdom at
Malacca. Ideally located on the
Strait of Malacca and within
easy reach of the spice islands
of Indonesia, the new state
attracted trade from across Asia. Plan of the city of Malacca by Pedro Baretti de Resende, c.1511.
In 1405, Zheng He, the great of the 15th century it was the regions
Chinese Ming admiral, launched his major entrept, dominating much of
explorations of Southeast Asia and the Malay world. Though ties with
the Indian Ocean, and made Malacca the Imperial Court in China were
the foremost outpost for his fleet. fostered for added protection, the
This helped secure a trade agreement s u l t a n a t e d e v e l o p e d i n t o a n
with China as well as protection from independent and centralized admin-
its emperor against the constant threat istration with the sultan as absolute
of Siamese attacks. The city of ruler. He oversaw a fairly complex
Malacca became truly cosmopolitan: legal and administrative structure
given the seasonal winds, ships from which ensured the stability of the
China, Japan, India, and Persia might kingdom. High-ranking officials of
spend at least a year in the port. the state included the bendahara, or
The spread of Islam in Malacca is prime minister, the laksamanas, or
believed to have taken place between admirals, who commanded the army
1425 and 1445, when Parameswaras and navy, the temenggung, or
successors made Islam the state minister responsible for defense and
religion and took the title of Sultan, justice, and the syahbandar, or
thus giving rise to the Sultanate of harbor master. Government was
Malacca. The adoption of Islam formalized in the Undang-Undang
helped link Malacca to the vast Malacca, or codified laws of Malacca,
Muslim trading world, and by the end which constantly evolved under suc-
cessive sultans. The basis for
Malaccan law was threefold Hindu-
Buddhist tradition, Islamic tradition,
and adapt, or indigenous tradition.
Concurrently, Malacca became a
center for Islamic dissemination
throughout present-day Malaysia,
Indonesia, and Brunei. The states
influence was reflected in the
emergence of the Malay language as
Relief of Zheng He, Chinese temple in Semarang, Java the language of trade in the region.
Sukhothai-style 142545 Malacca ruler

vessel with lid adopts Islam and takes
1400 Parameswara founds the title of Sultan
the kingdom of Malacca
1150 1300 1450

1238 Foundation of 1303 Terengganu
the Thai Kingdom Stone records the Malacca tin coin, the earliest
of Sukhothai establishment of known indigenous coins of the
Islamic law Malay States
PORTUGUESE CONQUEST Looking to protect itself against its

By the 15th century, the Portuguese enemies, the sultan forged an alliance
were eager to challenge Venices with the Dutch. In 1602, all the Dutch
position as the sole suppliers of trading enterprises in Asia
spices in Europe, as well a ombined to form The United
to break the monopoly of Netherlands Chartered East
the Arab and Indian Muslim India Company (VOC),
traders over the immensely which recognized the need
valuable spice trade. In to seize control of Malacca
1509, an initial Portuguese to gain monopoly of the
expedition under Admiral spice trade. In 1640, the
Lopez de Sequeira arrived in Dutch, with the help of the
Malacca, but was driven o ltan of Johor, attacked
by the sultans army. A much Alfonso Malacca and after a year-long
larger and better-equipped de Albuquerque siege succeeded in displacing
fleet, led by Admiral Alfonso de the Portuguese. In return for its
Albuquerque in 1511, succeeded in support, Johor was granted trading
capturing Malacca after a 40-day privileges and by the end of the 17th
siege, ushering in the era of European century it had grown into a powerful
colonial powers in the region. Sultan kingdom. At the height of its power it
Mahmud Shah escaped to the interior controlled southern Peninsular
of the peninsula, where his elder son, Malaysia and part of eastern Sumatra.
Muzaffar Shah, eventually established When the Dutch took over, much of
the Sultanate of Perak in the north, Malacca lay in ruin owing to the
and his younger son, Alauddin Riyat 164041 siege. During their rule, the
Shah, founded the Johor Sultanate in Dutch rebuilt the city and many of
the south. This period also saw the these structures survive to this day.
rise of the Sumatran state of Aceh as Among the prominent buildings is the
a regional power. Stadthuys (see p122), the oldest Dutch
Although Malacca remained a building in Southeast Asia. Y Yet, over
Portuguese colony for over a century, the next 180 years under the Dutch,
the period saw a three-way struggle Malaccas prosperity declined as the
between Aceh, the sultanates of Johor new colonial rulers concentrated on
and Perak, and the Portuguese,
for the control of Malacca, which
lasted most of the 16th century.
THE DUTCH ERA

The new kingdom of Johor
faced its own share of assaults,
from both the Portuguese
and Aceh, and it was not until
the arrival of the Dutch, toward
the end of the 16th
century, that it succeeded in
consolidating its position. Dutch ships attacking a Portuguese vessel on the Indian Ocean
TIMELINE
1602 United Netherlands

1511 Portuguese 1550s Rise of Chartered East India
Admiral Alfonso Aceh in north Company (VOC) formed 1641 Dutch capture
dAlbuquerque Sumatra Malacca from Portugal
seizes Malacca
1500 1560 1620
152835 Sultanates of Johor

and Perak founded Coat of arms of the VOC
above one of the gates on
Galle Fort, Ceylon (Sri Lanka)
commercial and naval base. He

also declared it as a free trading
port and Penang soon thrived.
After Europes Napoleonic Wars
(180015), Britain emerged as
the leading power in Asia. In
1819, Sir Stamford Raffles (see
p38) repeated Lights work at
Penang with considerable suc-
cess in Singapore, which also
became a booming trade port.
In 1824, Britain and the
Dutch merchant and VOC ships at Jakarta, 17th century
Netherlands signed the Anglo-
developing their main base at Batavia, Dutch Treaty dividing the Malay
which is now Jakarta in Indonesia. world, with the Malay peninsula
passing to Britain and the bulk of the
BORNEO Indonesian Archipelago to the Dutch.
Until the arrival of the British, the Thus, Malacca passed to the British in
areas that now comprise Sarawak, exchange for Bengkulu on Sumatra,
Sabah, and the tiny, oil-rich state of which went to Holland.
Brunei had little to do with the Malay Initial British policy towards Malaysia
peninsula. Most of Borneo, as well as was determinedly one of trade, not
part of the neighboring Sulu territory, and also like the Dutch, but
Archipelago (present-day Philippines), unlike the Portuguese, the British were
was ruled by the powerful Brunei not interested in spreading Christianity,
Sultanate. In 1704, during a period of but rather in free trade and profit.
internal unrest, Brunei appears to They limited their direct control to
have ceded part of Sabah to the the Straits Settlements (see pp389),
Sultan of Sulu in return for the latters formed in 1826. The Malay Peninsula
military assistance. The territory even- became part of Britains sphere of
tually passed to Malaysia via the influence, but remained largely self-
British, but the Philippines tried to governing and independent.
reclaim Sabah as their land after the
formation of Malaysia in 1963.
ARRIVAL
V OF THE BRITISH
Things changed dramatically in
Malaysia with the arrival of the British
in the 18th century. The British East
India Company (EIC) needed a
halfway base for their maritime trade
with India and China. In 1786, Sir
Francis Light (see p103) signed a
treaty and acquired Penang from the
Sultan of Kedah on behalf of the
company and established it as a British ships arriving to take control of Malacca in 1824
Sir Stamford Raffles 1819 Sir Stamford

Raffles founds
1704 Brunei cedes Singapore 1826 Formation
part of Borneo to Sulu of the Straits
Settlements
1680 1740 1800
Detail of Borneo from Peter 1786 Sir Francis 1824 Malacca

Planciuss chart of Borneo, Light acquires passes to
1595 Penang for the Britain under
British East India the Anglo-
Company Dutch Treaty
T
The Straits Settlements

Between 1826 and 1946, the British Crown held a
group of geographically separate territories con-
sisting of Penang, Malacca, Singapore, Province
Wellesley, and surrounding islands, under the
collective name of the Straits Settlements. Colonial
influence in the area, however, began as early as
1786, when the Sultan of Kedah ceded Penang to
the British East India Company in exchange for
protection from Siam and Burma. As other areas
came under colonial power, they were built up to
promote trade. The consequent close association
of the region is still visible today in the racial and
cultural ties of its mixed ethnic communities and British East India vessel off
the legacies of its architectural style and landmarks. Malacca, early 19th century
The British in Penang employed Chinese

and Indian migrants, and sometimes
indigenous Malays, as laborers on road
construction projects throughout the island.
COLONIZATION
The British did not arrive at the Straits
Settlements in large numbers, instead
establishing themselves as the ruling elite and
employing migrants from India, China, and
other parts of the British Empire to administer
the new colonies and serve as soldiers,
laborers, and tradesmen.
Chinese junks were used extensively
STAMFORD RAFFLES for trade between the Settlements.
One of the British Empires

most celebrated statesmen,
Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles
(17811826) began his
career at the age of 14 as
a clerk with the British East
India Company in London.
He worked his way up to
Lieutenant-Governor of Java
in 1811 and was knighted
Sir Stamford
Raffles
in 1817. In 1819, Raffles
signed a treaty with a local
sultan, laying the foundation for modern
Singapore. Also a founder and first presi-
dent of the Zoological Society of London, Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah of Kedah and his
he is remembered in the name of the entourage in 1900. Like all sultans who reigned
largest flower in the world, the rafflesia. after the British took control of Penang in 1786,
he had no real power in the islands government.
TRADE Penangs first coin, bearing

The Straits Settlements were acquired by the British to e British East India
function as free trade ports, not to promote territorial Company crest, was
ambitions. By establishing such ports, Britain sought to minted in 1787 in
dominate trade routes between Europe and Asia. Calcutta. Sir Francis
Light is said to have
fired cannons loaded
with coins into the jungle
n
to coax laborers to clear it.
cent coins, bearing

he head of Queen
Victoria, were
struck in 1826, the
year the Straits
Spice plantations were set up in Penang to grow mace, Settlements passed
nutmeg, cinnamon, and pepper, which were rare and nto the hands of the
valuable commodities in 18th-century Europe. British Government.
A new port at Singapore was envisaged by

Raffles as a free port astride the sea lanes
between Europe and the Far East. Today, it is
one of the busiest ports in the world.
CULTURE
The Straits Settlements developed as a
fascinating melting pot of cultures.
Immigrants from Asia lived side by side
with Portuguese, Dutch, and British
settlers, as well as indigenous Malays.
Gas lightingwas one of many innovations

brought by the British to the Settlements.
Peranakan culture grew

alongside the develop-
ment of the Settlements.
New customs were born Early Chinese settlers, as well
out of the marriages as Peranakan men, wore their
between the Chinese and hair in distinctive long pony-
Malay, which blended tails, or queues, well into the
the traditions of each late-19th century. This was
culture. At Peranakan a sign of their allegiance to
weddings, for example, the Qing Empire.
couples traditionally
wore Chinese dress.
Kling is an outdated name for early

Tamil settlers originating from southern
India. They formed the majority of South Asian
migrants to the Straits Settlements.
A lithograph depicting the scene of a battle with pirates during James Brookes rule
THE RISE OF THE WHITE RAJAHS consolidate his rule over the
Britain did not include Borneo in the indigenous people, as well as ward
Anglo-Dutch Treaty, preferring to off unruly Malay pirates who wreaked
concentrate their interests on the havoc on the coast. Brookes rule was
peninsula. By the late 18th century, remarkably progressive, and he
Brunei was in decline and sought to establish law and
faced increasing unrest from order as well as welfare for
the indigenous peoples as the local people. He
well as territorial claims from gradually won the trust of
the Sulu Sultanate. In 1838, the indigenous communities,
James Brooke, an explorer although he faced and put
and former officer with the down a rebellion by Chinese
East India Company, set out migrants in 1857. When he
to seek his fortune in the East died in 1868, James Brooke
Indies. En route he passed was succeeded as rajah by
through Singapore and was his nephew, Charles Brooke
asked by the British gover- James Brooke, the first (18291917) who was
nor to deliver a message to White Rajah of Sarawak responsible for expanding
Rajah Muda Hashim, Governor of the territory of Sarawak at the
Kuching in Sarawak. Brooke arrived expense of the shrinking Brunei
in Sarawak in 1839 to find the ter- Sultanate. During his reign, Sarawak
ritory in a state of revolt, with the also became a British protectorate in
indigenous Dayaks rising up against 1888, with the Brooke family retaining
the Sultan of Brunei. He was enlisted control of the internal administration.
to help the sultan and together they
crushed the rebellion within a year. EXPANSION OF BRITISH CONTROL
As a reward, in 1841, the sultan In the mid-19th century, Sabah
made Brooke the Rajah of Sarawak, remained under the loose control of
the first of three White Rajahs (see Brunei (with Sulu chiefs exercising
p157). Brooke, backed by British authority at a local level). Enfeebled
naval power, used his position to by internal disputes, Brunei sought to
TIMELINE
Signing the treaty for the cession
of Labuan, Borneo, in 1846 1874 T
Treaty of Pangkor
signed; first
British Resident
1847 Signing of the 1865 Brunei leases Sabah to Claude installed in Perak
treaty of Labuan Lee Moses, the American consul
1840 1850 1860 1870
1841 James Brooke Charles Brooke, 1868 Death of
becomes the first 1857 Brooke puts down second White James Brooke,
White Rajah Chinese rebellion Rajah of Charles Brooke
Sarawak succeeds
lease the territory, first to Claude

Lee Moses, the American consul
in Brunei, in 1865, then to Baron
von Overbeck, the Austrian con-
sul in Hong Kong in 1875, and
finally to Englishman Alfred
Dent, who established the British
North Borneo Company in 1881.
In 1888, Sabah, along with
Sarawak, came under British
government protection. Like the
White Rajahs, however, the com-
British officials with the sultans of the Federated Malay States
pany retained control of internal
administration. A resistance movement Residents continued. In 1896, the
started by Mat Salleh in 1895 against states of Pahang, Selangor, and
the companys rule was not defeated Negeri Sembilan joined Perak as part
until 1905 (five years after Mat of the British-controlled Federated
Sallehs death). Following that, Sabah Malay States, which were adminis-
remained a quiet colonial backwater. tered from the Sultan Abdul Samad
At about the same time, the British Building in Kuala Lumpur. In 1909,
began to refine their policies of non- under the terms of the Anglo-Siamese
intervention in the Malay peninsular T Treaty, the former Thai tributaries of
states. The booming tin industry had Kelantan, Terengganu, Kedah, and
attracted large numbers of Chinese Perlis, joined by Johor in 1914, came
immigrants to the states of Perak and under the system of British Residents,
Selangor. This led to ethnic clashes becoming known as the Unfederated
with the Malays, as well as to civil Malay States. Thus, together with the
disorders caused by Chinese criminal Straits Settlements and Sabah,
gangs. Infighting also raged in various S a r a w a k , a n d B r u n e i , B r i t i s h
Malay sultanates. The British feared consolidation of power over Malaya
that another major European power, was complete by World War I.
notably Germany, might exploit these
weaknesses to gain a foothold on the
Malaysian mainland. Hence, in 1874,
through the Treaty of Pangkor, the
first British Resident was appointed in
Perak, whom the sultan agreed to
consult on all issues except those
involving Muslim religion and Malay
custom. However, increased British
control of judicial and financial affairs
sparked unrest amongst the Perak
Malays and led to the murder of the
first Resident, J.W.W. Birch, in 1875.
This revolt was quickly quashed,
and the process of appointing British Sultan Abdul Samad Building, Kuala Lumpur
Stamp issued by the

1877 Brunei North Borneo Company 1895 Mat Salleh resistance
renews lease movement begins in Sabah
on Sabah to 1909 Unfederated
Overbeck 1888 British Resident 1896 Creation of the Malay States
appointed in Pahang Federated Malay States formed
1880 1890 1900 1910
1881 Alfred Dent sets up 1888 Sarawak and Sabah 1914 Johor joins the
the BNBC become British protectorates Unfederated Malay States
1877 Rubber tree introduced via Brazil, Kew Gardens, and Sir Frank Swettenham, first Resident-
Ceylon (Sri Lanka), to the Botanic Gardens in Singapore General of the Federated Malay States
The advent of World War II

ensured that colonial life would
never be the same.
WORLD WAR II
Troops of the Japanese Imperial
T
Army landed on the east coast
of the peninsula in December
1941. Within two months, they
had conquered it, and Singapore,
A British rubber planter overseeing Indian workers, Malaysia
and Borneo as well. For the next
three years they would unleash
COLONIAL LIFE a particularly ruthless regime. The sook
Having taken charge of the entire ching (purification by elimination)
peninsula, the British turned their massacres in the first months of
energies towards developing a pro- Japanese rule involved the deaths of
ductive economy. Peninsular Malaysia between 40,000 and 70,000 ethnic
emerged in the 20th century as the Chinese in Singapore alone. About
worlds leading producer of both 75,000 Malaysians, mostly Indian
rubber and tin. In Borneo, Sarawak Tamils, were recruited to work on the
was a securely established and Burma-Thailand Death Railway. With
relatively prosperous territory by the malnourishment, appalling working
time Charles Vyner Brooke took over conditions, and the brutality of the
as the third White Japanese overseers,
Rajah in 1917, while death rates escalated
Sabah was profiting to 40 percent.
from the timber, Some Malaysians
rubber, and tobacco resisted, notably the
industries. Large- guerrilla units of the
scale immigration Malayan Communist
from India and China Party (MCP), armed
was encouraged to by British saboteurs
supply the workforce in the underground
Japanese troops marching through downtown
for the colonial econ- Force 136. At the
Singapore in December 1941
omy. The Malays same time, to bolster
were recognized as indigenous their rule, the Japanese encouraged
people, but were largely encouraged radical Malayan nationalists to organize
to stay in their villages. By the late paramilitary and political organi-
1930s, ordinary Malays were less well zations. Hopelessly overstretched
off than the urban Chinese, and in throughout Asia and the Pacific,
danger of becoming a minority in Japanese rule had induced economic
their own homeland. The stage had chaos in the Malay peninsula and
been set for decades of racial Borneo by 1944. But it was the drop-
tensions. Politicization and elite ping of atomic bombs on Hiroshima
sentiment for independence along and Nagasaki in August 1945 that
ethnic lines also began to grow. finally forced Japan to surrender.
TIMELINE
Charles Vyner Brooke

1930s Chinese begin 1941 Japanese
to join the Malayan invasion of Malaya
Communist Party and Singapore
1918 1923 1928 1933 1938

1926 Singapore
Malay Union
1917 Charles Vyner Brooke, formed HMS Prince of Wales, sunk
third and last White Rajah of off the coast of Terengganu
Sarawak (191746) by Japanese bombers in 1941
Declaration of independence from British rule by Tunku Abdul Rahman in August 1957
THE EMERGENCY guerrillas from food and intelligence

In the reoccupation, the first British supplies. The MCP leaders finally fled
step was to establish the Malayan to Thailand in the late 1950s, and by
Union in 1946. This united all the 1960 the government of independent
peninsular states into a central admin- Malaya declared the Emergency over.
istration under British rule and
granted equal citizenship rights to all MERDEKA (INDEPENDENCE)
ethnic groups. Singapore, Sabah, and Parallel to their campaign against the
Sarawak were to be governed sepa- MRLA, the British pursued talks with
rately as crown colonies. anti-communist Malay nationalists,
The union was strongly opposed by promising independence. In 1955,
the Malay population and led to the elections were held to determine the
formation of the first Malay political government for the new country. This
party, the United Malays National was won by the Alliance Party, formed
Organisation (UMNO). The Malayan by the UMNO, the Malayan Chinese
Union was subsequently replaced by Association, and the Malayan Indian
the Federation of Malaya, which Congress. On August 31, 1957, Malaya
excluded Singapore, and granted gained independence, with Tunku
special rights to the Malays. However, Abdul Rahman as its first prime
the Chinese were dissatisfied with minister. Sarawak, Sabah, and
this development, and in June 1948, Singapore remained crown colonies,
the Malayan Races Liberation Army although Singapore became self-
(MRLA),
A the armed wing of the MCP, governing in 1959. In 1961, a new
returned to the jungle to begin an federation uniting the peninsular
insurgency against the British, under states, Singapore, Sarawak, Sabah,
the leadership of Chin Peng. So and Brunei, was proposed. Despite
began the hard-fought Emergency. the opposition from Indonesia and
Chin Pengs war was ultimately the Philippines, the planned union
doomed. Few Malays or Indians sup- went ahead, and Malaysia was
ported the MCP,P while the resettlement proclaimed on September 16, 1963,
of 400,000 rural Chinese cut off the but without Brunei, which opted out.
1946 Malayan Tunku Abdul Rahman signing Federation

Union 1948 State of Emergency of Malaya (Independence) Agreement, 1957
established; declared, which lasts until
UMNO set up 1960; Federation of Malaya 1961 Tunku Abdul Rahman
replaces the Malayan Union proposes a new Malaysian
Federation
1943 1948 1953 1958 1963
1945 Japanese 1953 Alliance 1957 Malaya attains 1959 Singapore 1963 Malaysia
surrender; British Party formed independence; granted internal established;
reoccupy Borneo, Tunku Abdul Rahman self-
f government; Brunei opts out
Malaya, and becomes first Lee Kuan Y Yew is
Singapore prime minister first prime minister
Malay Royal Regiment troops patrolling the streets of Kuala Lumpur following the May 13, 1969 riots
KONFRONTASI r eluctantly left the Malaysian

Both Indonesia and the Philippines Federation due to continuing political
immediately severed diplomatic rela- disagreements and became an
tions with the new state of Malaysia. independent country. Still, the two
Indonesian president Sukarno began neighbors remained closely asso-
a policy of Konfrontasi, or confron- ciated. In 1967, Malaysia and
tation, involving infiltration and Singapore joined the Association of
sabotage. Indonesian armed troops Southeast Asian Nations ((ASEAN) and
crossed into Sabah and Sarawak, and were two of its five original members.
even landed in Peninsular Malaysia
and Singapore. Over the next four ETHNIC AND ECONOMIC TENSIONS
years the Malaysian army, backed by In the late 1960s, Malaysia and
British, New Zealand, and Australian Singapore were still relatively impov-
forces, defeated Indonesian attempts erished by the effects of war and also
to subvert the new federation. riven with ethnic tensions. The
Malaysia was thus established as a departure of Singapore from the
secure, internationally recognized Federation of Malaysia ensured a
state. However, in 1965, Singapore Malay Muslim majority within
Malaysia, but Malay politicians and
the ethnic Malay population were still
concerned by the economic power
wielded by the Chinese. In 1967, the
National Language Act was passed to
ensure the primacy of the Malay
language. The move was resented
by the Chinese. Ethnic tensions first
came to a head in Singapore, where
there was rioting between the Malays
and Chinese in 1964. In the 1969
Inaugural meeting of ASEAN members in August 1967 general elections, the Alliance Party
TIMELINE
1981 Mahathir Mohamad

1963 Sukarno starts 1967 Malaysia and becomes Malaysias fourth
policy of Konfrontasi Singapore join ASEAN prime minister
1969 Race riots in Kuala Lumpur
1964 1974 1984
1965 Singapore 1970 Tun Abdul Razak Offshore oil rig in
leaves Malaysia takes over as Malaysias Sarawak
and becomes an prime minister; NEP
independent state introduced favoring
the bumiputra
polled less than 50 percent of the

popular vote, but retained its majority
in the parliament. A celebration march
by the opposition parties led to an
outbreak of race riots in Kuala Lumpur
on May 13, 1969, when hundreds of
ethnic Chinese were massacred.
The Malaysian government, under
Tun Abdul Razak, who had taken
over from Tunku Abdul Rahman in
1970, was badly shaken. It responded
by introducing the New Economic
Policy (NEP) in 1970, which was
designed to favor the bumiputra (see
pp2021) and improve their econom-
ic standing in society. At the same
time, the authorities made it clear that
no further racial attacks on ethnic
Chinese would be tolerated. The Alli-
ance Party also broadened its coali-
tion to include members of the
opposition and formed the Barisan
Kuala Lumpurs soaring skyline, dominated by the
Nasional (National Front), which
Petronas Towers, a symbol of economic prosperity
continues to be in power today.
Kuan Yew,
Y Prime Minister from 1959
MALAY
A SIA AND SINGAPORE TODAY
A to 1990, it grew and prospered as a
Over the next 20 years, using a powerhouse of light industry and
cautious mixture of financial induce- high technology. It also became one
ments and firm paternalism, both of the worlds greatest sea ports.
Malaysia and Singapore remained In 2003, Abdullah Ahmad Badawi
peaceful as their economies soared. took over from Mahathir Mohamad as
Malaysia prospered due to world prime minister of Malaysia. In
demand for its traditional products Singapore, Lee Kuan Y Yews successor,
rubber, palm oil, tea, and tin and by Goh Chok Tong, was replaced by
the end of the 1970s, the development Yews son, Lee Hsien Loong, in 2004.
Y
of light industries and the discovery of Both governments have now entered
oil and natural gas reserves in the a less authoritarian era, although one
South China Sea provided an extra where media and freedom of speech
boost. A period of remarkable eco- are still tightly monitored. The two
nomic and social development in the countries remain close despite an
1980s and 1990s was overseen by ongoing dispute over the construction
Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad, of a new causeway between Johor
who came to power in 1981. Bahru and Singapore, and their eco-
At its independence in 1965, nomies continue to surge ahead, as
Singapore seemed to face a bleak do living standards, higher education,
economic future. However, under Lee health, and social services.
Prime Minister Abdullah Ahmad Badawi
2006 Malaysia and Singapore fail to

agree on new bridge project linking
the two countries
1994 2004 2014

2003 Abdullah Badawi 2007 Malaysia celebrates
becomes Malaysias 50 years of independence
fifth prime minister Poster marking the 50th
2004 Lee Hsien Loong becomes year of Malaysias
Singapores third prime minister independence
MALAYSIA REGION
BY REG
R ION
INTRODUC
R ING MALAYSIA 4855
KUALA LUMPUR
R 5685
NORT
R HWEST PENINSULA 86115
SOUTHERN
R PENINSULA 116131
EASTERN
R AND CENTRAL
PENINSULA 132149
SARAWAK
K 150173
SABAH 174195
48 M A L AY S I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
A P O R T R A I T O F M A L AY S I A
W
ith its magnificent natural beauty and unique cultural
heritage, Malaysia is a fascinating Southeast Asian
destination. A relatively young country that celebrated 50
years of independence in 2007, it has progressed remarkably and has
emerged as one of the most successful economies in Asia.
Situated at the crossroads g position that is held

of ancient maritime trade a five-year term by sultans
routes, Malaysia has long be f nine hereditary Malay
a cultural melting pot. T ultanates, while the gov-
bulk of the population liv nment is led by an elected
on Peninsular Malaysia. Wh rime minister, currently
about half the countrys Datuk Seri Abdullah
million people are of Ma Ahmad Badawi, who is
origin, there are signific assisted by a cabinet of
Chinese and Indian minorit ministers. The governments
as well as many indigenous two-tier parliament consists
communities. The countrys Performers at a cultural of a lower house with 219
show in Penang
diversity is apparent in its elected representatives and
social customs and festivals, and an upper house with 70 senators.
its many cuisines and languages. Elections are held every five years.
Since independence, the country
SOCIETY AND POLITICS has been ruled by a multiracial
Malaysia is a constitutional coalition named Barisan Nasional
monarchy, based on the political (National Front), of which the United
system of its former colonial ruler, M a l a y s N a t i o n a l O rg a n i z a t i o n
Britain. In practice, however, there is (UMNO) is the largest political party.
more power vested in the executive
branch of government than the ECONOMY
judiciary. The country is headed From the early 1970s through the late
nominally by a supreme ruler, a 1990s, Malaysia transformed itself
from an economy based on
mining and agriculture to one
dominated by manufacturing
and exports, particularly of
electronic components. Palm
oil also continues to be one
of the most important exports.
Other prominent contributors
to the economy are oil and
gas production, timber, and
tourism. The country has
maintained steady economic
The port and the stunning Masjid Negeri in Kuantan, Pahang growth over the past couple
Sungai Segama cutting through the lowland rain forest, Danum Valley, Sabah
I N T R O D U C I N G M A L AY S I A 49
A pair of rhinoceros hornbills, the state bird of Sarawak, in the lush Malaysian rain forest
of decades, fueling rapid development diversity is also reflected in

in the major cities. Its main trading the variety of religions followed
partners are the USA, China, and here. Although Islam is the state
Japan, all of which are significant religion, Buddhism, Hinduism, and
sources of foreign investment. Christianity, among others, are
practiced freely. Traditional Malay
ENVIRONMENT performing arts, including the
Malaysia, like many developing fascinating wayang kulit, or shadow-
nations, faces its own set of envi- puppet plays, continue to thrive and
ronmental issues, including air and can be seen during festivals or at
water pollution, deforestation, and cultural shows. Local pastimes such
the depletion of wildlife species. as kite-flying and top-spinning are
Although stretches of the countrys still practiced, particularly on the east
ancient rain forests, and the wildlife coast of the peninsula. The country
they shelter, are protected in national has a vibrant handicrafts tradition,
parks, intense logging is changing ranging from exquisitely woven
the face of the country, transform- textiles to basketware and
ing jungles into barren hillsides. woodcarving. Malaysia is also gaining
Fortunately, several international a healthy contemporary art scene,
bodies, such as WWF, the global with work by the countrys leading
conservation organization, are very artists on display in galleries.
active in Malaysia and their persistent
campaigning has at least slowed
down the rate of environmental
degradation. Despite their efforts, the
S u m a t r a n rh i n o c e r o s a n d t h e
leatherback turtle face extinction.
CULTURE AND ARTS

Malaysias ethnic mosaic endows it
with an infinitely varied and cos-
mopolitan culture, assimilating Malay,
Chinese, and Indian customs, tra-
ditions, and beliefs, as well as those
of its indigenous peoples. The ethnic Puppeteer maneuvering figures during a show
MALAYSIA THROUGH THE YEAR

W ith its unique blen
diverse ethnic groups
cultures, Malaysia hosts
range of festivals and even
throughout the year. The cou
s, an array of state-specific festi-
are celebrated. As many people
it family during major festivals,
all forms of transport become
congested. Many religious festi-
trys religious festivals include vals are based on the lunar cal-
the Islamic Hari Raya Puasa ndar, so dates can vary. Islamic
and Hindu Deepavali. Sporti stivals, for example, move for-
events, such as Formula 1 raci ard by about ten days each year
and traditional pastimes such relation to the Gregorian calen-
kite flying are also enjoyed. Iban warrior performing dar. For exact dates, check
In addition to nationwide a traditional dance with Malaysia Tourism.
Flora Fest (Jan/Feb), Klang
JANUARY TO MARCH Valley and Putrajaya. Floats
decked in flowers are
Seasons vary little in Malaysia, paraded through the streets,
with only the early months accompanied by cultural
of the year distinguished by performances.
heavy rain on the east coast Territory Day (Feb 1),
Federal T
of Peninsular Malaysia. Still, Kuala Lumpur, Labuan, and
spirits are far from dampened Putrajaya. Malaysias three
by the rain and festivals such federal territories put on
as the Chinese New Y Year are parades, firework displays,
celebrated with enthusiasm. and cultural shows.
Tour de Langkawi (Feb),
Le T
Ponggal (Jan/Feb), Langkawi to Merdeka Square
nationwide. A Tamil in Kuala Lumpur. Top cyclists Worshipers lighting candles at a
(southern Indian) harvest from around the world com- church during Easter
festival celebrated by boiling pete in Asias version of the
rice, sugar, and milk until the Tour de France. public holiday in the states
pot overflows, symbolizing Malaysian Open Golf of Kedah, Kelantan, Perlis,
prosperity. This is offered to Championship (Feb), and Terengganu.
gods at Hindu temples. nationwide. An international Chinese New YearY (Jan/Feb),
Thaipusam (Jan/Feb), golfing event that takes place nationwide. The streets come
nationwide. A Hindu festival at the top golf courses in the alive to see out the old year
honoring Lord Murugan, in country, including the Royal and welcome the new, with
which thousands of devotees Selangor Golf and Country dragon dances and Chinese
carry kavadis, or steel arches, Club and the Kuala Lumpur opera performances. Debts
attached to their skin by Golf and Country Club. are paid off, children are
hooks, and walk in a mas- Hari Raya Haji (variable), given presents of money,
sive procession from the Sri nationwide. This Islamic and mandarin oranges a
Maha Mariamman Temple festival celebrates the return symbol of good luck are
(see p64) to the Batu Caves of pilgrims from the Haj to eaten. Many shops and busi-
(see p90), one of the largest Mecca with prayers and nesses close for a week.
temple caves in the country. animal sacrifices. This is a Chap Goh Mei (usually Feb),
nationwide. The fifteenth day
after the start of the Chinese
New Y Year is marked by
feasts and prayers.
Malaysian Grand Prix
(usually Mar), Selangor. The
worlds fastest Formula 1
drivers compete at the
Sepang International Circuit.
Easter (Mar/Apr), nation-
wide. The biggest ceremo-
nies are held in Malacca
with candle-lit processions
at churches on Good Friday,
which is a public holiday in
Rubens Barrichello, for Ferrari, in the lead at the Malaysian Grand Prix Sabah and Sarawak.
APRIL TO JUNE
This is the peak of the

festival calendar especially
for the Dayaks of Sarawak
who celebrate the Gawai
festival. Other highlights
include the Buddhist Vesak.
KL International Arts Festival

(Apr), Kuala Lumpur. A show-
case for Malaysian art with
some eye-catching street art.
Pesta Kaul (Apr), Mukah. A
festival of the Melanau fish- Orang Ulu dancers in vibrant ethnic costumes at the Harvest Festival
ing communities to mark
the beginning of the fishing Colors of Malaysia (May), of Kuala Lumpur to celebrate
season. Dare-devil acts are nationwide. A month-long the birthday of the king.
performed on tibau, or huge celebration of Malaysian cul- Gawai (early Jun), across
rattan swings. ture, this event takes place in Sarawak. Marking the end of
Prophet Muhammads the big cities and features the rice harvest, this festival
Birthday (variable), street parades, music, dance, is the highlight of the year
nationwide. Processions and and food festivals. for the Dayaks of Sarawak
Koran recitations are held to Miri International Jazz and an occasion for feasting
commemorate the birth of Festival (May)
( , Miri. Musi- and dancing. There are many
the Prophet Muhammad. cians from Europe, Australia, versions of Gawai, such as
World Harvest Festival Africa, and Asia perform Gawai Padi, celebrated by
(2nd weekend of May), funk, fusion, Latin, and blues. the Bidayuh, one of the
Sarawak Cultural Tadau Kaamatan (end of
T Dayak groups. It is an ideal
Village, located near May), Penampang time to visit a longhouse.
Kuching. A cultural (Sabah). A festival Fiesta San Pedro (Jun),
extravaganza in for the Kadazan Malacca. The Eurasian com-
anticipation of the Dusun and Murut munity, who came here
Gawai festival, with communities, who during the Portuguese occu-
dance, music, and a give thanks for a pation in the 16th century,
beauty pageant. Orchid at the Johor successful rice crop decorate their boats to pay
Labuan International International by singing, dancing, homage to St. Peter.
Sea Challenge Orchid Show and electing a Penang International Dragon
(May), Pulau harvest queen. Boat Festival (Jun/Jul),
Labuan. An international Vesak (May/Jun), nationwide. Penang. Long rowing boats,
competition that includes The most important festival of each decorated with a drag-
fishing, swimming, and the year for Buddhists, honor- ons head and tail, partici-
kayaking events. ing the birth, enlightenment, pate in races to honor the
Johor International Orchid and death of the Buddha. memory of Chinese poet Qu
Show (May), Johor. An Kings Birthday (1st Sat in Yuan, who drowned himself
Y
exhibition of rare orchids Jun), nationwide. There in 278 BC in a protest against
from around the globe. are processions in the streets corrupt politics.
Spectacular celebrations at the Colors of Malaysia festival

AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL (KUALA LUMPUR)

MM Inches Rainfall Chart
300 12 Rainfall across the
country is variable and
240
9 it is difficult to show a
national average.
180
6
The wettest period for
120
the east coast of the
Malaysian Peninsula
3
60 and Malaysian Borneo
is November to March.
0 0 The west coast of the
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec peninsula sees rain
from April to October.
of competitions are among

JULY TO SEPTEMBER the celebrations that mark
the anniversary of the coun-
The focus of festivities during trys independence.
these months are Merdeka Festival of the Hungry Ghosts
Eve and National Day at the (Aug/Sep), nationwide. This
end of August, commemorat- Chinese festival is held to
ing Malaysias independence. appease the spirits of the
Other colorful and unique dead released from purga-
events include the Rainforest tory during the seventh lunar
Music Festival in Sarawak, month. Joss sticks, candles,
the Sarawak Regatta, and the and paper money are burnt
Mount Kinabalu Climbathon. outside homes and Chinese
street opera is performed.
Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival Ramadan (variable), nation-
(Jul to Sep), nationwide. wide. This is the Muslim holy
Substantial discounts are Fireworks display during National month during which Muslims
offered on everything from Day celebrations fast in daylight hours and eat
designer clothing to elec- only after sunset. Street stalls
tronic gadgets at shopping Kuching Festival (Aug), set up outside mosques in
malls and stores. Kuching. This celebration of the evening offer many
Rainforest World Music Sarawaks culture comprises Muslim delicacies.
Festival (Jul), Sarawak concerts, exhibitions, theater Hari Raya Puasa (variable),
Cultural Village, near performances, and food fairs, nationwide. Also known as
Kuching. An annual global and lasts for a month. Aidilfitri, this Muslim festival
event featuring music work- Merdeka Eve (Aug 30), marks the end of Ramadan,
shops and performances by nationwide. Fireworks with feasts that feature spe-
renowned musicians from displays and cultural perfor- cial food preparations.
as far away as Madagascar, mances in major towns and Families get together and
Albania, and Mongolia as cities herald National Day. pay respect to their elders,
well as rarely heard indige- National Day (Aug 31), and packets of money are
nous musicians from across nationwide. Parades, pop given to children as presents.
the country (see p159). music shows, and a plethora Sarawak Regatta (Sep),
Kuching. An annual regatta
of paddleboat, powerboat,
and canoe competitions on
the Sungai Sarawak between
the various indigenous
people of Sarawak.
Mount Kinabalu Climbathon
(Sep/Oct), Sabah. Most
people take two full days
to climb this massive moun-
tain but the skilled climbers
in this climbathon, the
worlds toughest mountain
race, take less than three
hours to complete the
Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival at Soga department store in Kuala Lumpur climb and descend.
AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE

A (KUALA LUMPUR)
C F
30 90 Temperature Chart
T
The temperature in
80
25 Malaysia does not vary
20 70 much. Hot and humid
all year round, the
15 60
temperature
r hovers
10 50 around 30 C (86 F)
5 40 during the day, with
a slight drop in the
0 30 evenings. The hill
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
stations may get as
cool as 15 C (59 F).
to mark the fall of the

OCTOBER TO DECEMBER Mongol dynasty in China
in the 12th century. In
Due to heavy rain and rough the evening, lanterns are
seas on the east coast, boat lit and areas with large
travel to small islands is Chinese communities
tough. Some national parks hold a lantern parade.
are also closed. The two Deepavali (Oct/Nov),
important religious festivals nationwide. The festival
during this season are the of lights commemorates
Mooncake Festival and Lord Krishnas victory
Deepavali. Although there over Narakasura, the
are only a few Christians in triumph of good over
Malaysia, Christmas is still evil and light over dark.
a much celebrated event. Hindu homes and tem-
ples around the country
Borneo Cultural Festival are decorated with oil
(Oct), Sibu. A week-long lamps to welcome the
celebration of music and goddess of prosperity.
dance with participants that Hindus pray for hap-
include local ethnic groups, piness and stability. Towering Christmas tree at a shopping
T
and visiting performers from T
Tamu Besar (Nov), Kota center in Kuala Lumpur
countries including China and Belud. Held annually at
Indonesia. The festival also one of Sabahs biggest mar- the big cities with lavish
attracts visitors from Thailand, kets and tourist attractions, decorations in hotels and
Brunei, and nearby countries. Tamu Besar features cultural shopping malls. Midnight
Mooncake Festival (variable), performances and handicraft Mass is celebrated in
nationwide. Also known as demonstrations. The high- churches nationwide.
the Mid-Autumn Festival, light, however, is to see
this day is celebrated by the Bajau horsemen, dressed PUBLIC HOLIDAYS A
Chinese who exchange and in colorful traditional
consume mooncakes, made costumes. They ride their New Years
Y Day (Jan 1)
of lotus and sesame seeds, bedecked horses around Chinese New Year
Y (Jan/
town (see p182). Feb)
KL International Buskers Thaipusam (Jan/Feb)
Festival (Dec), Kuala Lumpur.
For over a week, street per- Good Friday (Mar/Apr)
formers from around the Birthday of the Prophet
world, including musicians, Muhammad (variable)
dancers, comedians, jugglers, Labor Day (May 1)
and acrobats, put on shows
to demonstrate their talents. V
Vesak (May/Jun)
Christmas (Dec 25), Kings Birthday (Jun)
nationwide. Largely unmarked Hari Raya Puasa (variable)
in predominantly Muslim
regions, such as the peninsu- National Day (Aug 31)
las eastern coast and parts Deepavali (Oct/Nov)
Energetic dances at the KL of Sabah, Christmas is a Christmas (Dec 25)
International Buskers Festival major commercial event in
Malaysia at a Glance
Malaysia consists of two geographical regions,
Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo,
which are divided by the South China Sea. A
range of mountains runs down the center of the
peninsula, dividing the developed plains of the
west from the more rural east coast. Malaysian
Borneo, comprising the states of Sarawak and
Sabah, is a land of rain forests and great rivers.
Sandwiched between these two states is the
oil-rich independent Sultanate of Brunei.
The Perhentian Islands (see p142)
off the coast of Terengganu have
pristine beaches and offer excellent
swimming and diving in the clear
Cameron Highlands
pp923) is the count
largest and most pop
hill station, with a c
tently pleasant clima
rolling hills, lush tea
tions, and a distinct
colonial character.
The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

(see p62) is one of busy Kuala
Lumpurs most magnificent colo- Seremban (see p120), the state capital of
nial structures. The citys other Negeri Sembilan, is the center of Minangkabau
attractions include interesting culture in Malaysia. Striking buildings with
museums, pleasant gardens,
r roofs shaped like buffalo horns, such as the
and lively local markets. State Museum, can be seen throughout town.
Pulau Sipadan (see pp1945), off the east

coast of Sabah, is surrounded by a
stunning coral reeff and is rated among
the worlds top diving destinations.
Lambir Hills National Park (see

p169) protects the forested areas
around Lambir Hills. Visited most
often for its scenic waterfalls,
r the
park reflects the natural heritage
of Sarawak, a state that owes its
considerable global significance
to its many spectacular and
species-rich forests.
M A L AY S I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 57
KUALA LUMPUR
T
he capital of Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur, is the nations biggest city
with a population of 1.5 million people. A relatively young city,
it has evolved from a humble town in the 1850s to the financial
and commercial capital and principal gateway of the country. A vision
of modernity with its skyscrapers and the best restaurants and nightlife
in the country, Kuala Lumpur also possesses a rich cultural heritage
that is revealed in its colonial architecture, temples, and mosques.
Kuala Lumpur sits in the congregating in ethnic enclaves that

Klang Valley, and its name, remain even today. In 1999,
which means muddy conflu- Putrajaya became the new admin-
ence in Malay, is derived from istrative capital, but Kuala Lumpur
its location at the point where remains the countrys financial
the Klang and Gombak rivers and commercial center.
meet. Established here in 1857, the Some of the countrys rich
city began as a ramshackle trading history can be seen in the 19th-
post for the burgeoning tin industry, century architecture of the old
and was constantly plagued by colonial district and in neighboring
floods, fires, and civil wars. Chinese Chinatown, with its incense-filled
miners and traders formed a large temples and chatter-filled kedai kopi,
part of its early population, governed or coffee shops. Little India, Kampung
by a Kapitan China, or headman. The Baru, and Chow Kit are the best places
most famous of them was Yap Y Ah to find Indian, Malay, and Chinese
Loy (see p65) who was responsible cuisines. A closer look reveals that
for the citys early growth. the city blends the old with the new.
A building boom began when the Flanked by glitzy shops and trendy
British took control in the 1880s, and bars, the Golden Triangle is the hub of
in 1896, Kuala Lumpur was made the the citys nightlife, while the Petronas
capital of the newly formed Towers dominate the business district
Federated Malay States. A multiracial of KLCC. The Lake Gardens are a
population began to settle here, perfect escape from the urban clutter.
Entrance to Chan See Shu Yuen Temple in Kuala Lumpur
Asy-Syakirin mosque with the gleaming Petronas Towers in the background, Kuala Lumpur
Explori
Kuala Lumpu
which is ringe
the tranquil Laa

5JUJX
5JUJXBOHTB
JUJXBOHTB
TB
"/(
Little India, Ch
h 1FLFMJMJOH
1 FMJ OH #
best street marr #VT4UBUJPO
#VT4
T4UBU PO
1")
36
&
.
Center (PWTC))
)"
" +"
-"
exhibition centete .
+"-"/
/ /
-" *1
Kuala Lumpur C +" 0
)
the Petronas To o
$IP
$I
IPX
PX,JU
the business and d +"
-" +"-
"/ $)0 8 ,*

4&*/
5
/
capital. Close by ,6
+-/ )"+* )64

$) 185$
8 $
foot of which is
*/
-" 65
(
a patch of rain foo 8
+-/ 3"+" "-"/(
SIGHTS AT A GLA
A
"
+"
#(/7
# /7
"/
3"+
-"
/
4
+)4
4
).
6-
Historic Streets, Bu VMUB
UBO
BO 5"
BJM
/
3"
TNB *4 .FEBO
Neighborhoods ." 5VBOLV
"/
*-

-
Badan Warisan x
%6
+"-
#
Carcosa Seri Negara
,6 "
+-/ %
Chinatown 7 8"/ "/(
56"/
(* %BOH
% OH
The Golden Trianglee OHJ
8BOHJ
8BOH
Jalan Tuanku Abdul BZ
BZB
G ,)) 4 4 ,%
).$)!
+ " -" /
Kuala Lumpur Railwaa
/(
*/%*"
(
,6$)*
/
Little India o F 1"
".
+*%
Malaysian Tourism
"4
/
-"
.
+" -" /
+"
/
Information Compll
-"
+"
Menara KL and Bukitt
*.
&/ .BT JE @ 5
BTKJE
B
Forest Reserve z 3- +B
BN
B NFL
+-/ -&&
1" )4 /
+-
Petronas Towers g +"-"

/
.&3
3%&
3%&,"
56
/
% % */
42
26"3&
6"
"
Royal Selangor Club 3
/
-
1&
+ "

3"
, 1VEVSBZB
BZB
BZ
".6
Sultan Abdul Samad B #6

) #VT
#VT4UBUJPO
VT4
4UBU PO
,"4563*
-& 6%6
-",& 1 #
* 4)
$ ,
1 &4 * " 3" ( -0
)&/
("3%&/4
Museums and Gallerr /
#(() !
#().!
#
"/ )
/$
+- 1MMB[B
. " )".
P 4/
4/7.
4 /7.3BLZBU
+ -/ )
Islamic Arts Museum K BL

+-/
4 6 -5
4!3
4!3)+
3 +
"-*/
see pp689 e
0%2$!.!
0% 2$
$!.
&36
1 &5"
1&
1B
BTTBS
TB +-
/
National Art Gallery s F J #
3 %"
+-/
+" 4FOJ
4
N
5B
/
<
+ "-- " /
- ,MBOH#VT
, OH #VT
TJL
National History Musee "

"
4UBUJPO
4U BU
1F
/
+- /
National Museum r , */ " +-
SEB
#"-6 /
+
. "-
OB
,
,V
,VBMB-VNQ
NQV
QVS " " .BIBS
.
"/ UJPO d H
3BJMXBZ4UBU
BJMX Z4UBUJPO ) / BKBMFMB
"
Shopping and Marke
e 4"3
"
3

"
"
+
Central Market 5 I +"

-&-
"
-"
Chow Kit Market a /
%".
Jalan Petaling Market 8 "/4
"3"
Kampung Baru and
"
4UFTFO
4
4U
d 4FOUSBM
*
&-
(
/ /
+"
M
#
" -"
Pasar Minggu Markett

/
% +"
-"

/
"
5)
Suria KLCC and KLCC / *4
1"
" 5"/

#" :.$"
: $"
-/
" +
. %
"
Places of Worship 3%.42!,
42!,
42
2!4!
!,, 4"
.
"
"5+)4
"5
4
/
56

0%4!,).'
0 %4!,).'
3
*

&
6
":
Chan See Shu Yuen Tee / #%

7
+
-"
"-
"
"

)8
"/
+"
3
/ #& - -
Masjid India i "
5
".:
-5
46 *(
/
)
Masjid Jamek 2 /
"
-
-" "
-
+" &3 /(
+"
6
Masjid Negara w '
&%
&3
":
/
,
0
"
Sze Ya Temple 6
#BOHTBS
#B 53 30
#4
+ -/
16
- 4:
/
Sri Maha Mariamman -"
&% +"
4:
&%
Temple 9 / 1&3,6#63"/
-"
+"
165
$*/"
Thean Hou Temple u
3" ,*3*
Islands L
4!-!.
-!
Pulau Ketam m
$%3! 3%
$%3!3%054%(
%054%(
For additional map symbols see back flap

K U A L A L U M P U R 59
-BLF
5J UJ XBOHTB
;
BEY
YOND KUA
ALA LUMP
MP
PUR
UR ,MBOH
4)4)7!.'3!
4)4)7 ! M %BBN
%BN

b
,VBMB4FMBOHPS
b
(PNCB
( BL
#VMP
0) I
+" & 3-
J -"
/ 5&.
#
BU
%BNBOTB
BN SB
B
H
,BQBS
Q b
"NQBOH
BOH
-BO
+" b 4VMUBO""CEVM
CE a #B
#BOHTBS b
"
-" b
6%
/ "[J[[4IBI
IB b
56 1F BMJOH
1FUBMJOH
.
/ / ( + Z
+BZ
+BZB
+"
3" &-"
") ,
3"
;" &.# 9
,
/(
b
4VCBOH+BZB
4V
V BO
O +BZ
OH+BZ
OH 4FSJ,FNCBOHBO
,F
,FN HBO
30
D
-0
+"-"/ 3"+" .6%" "#%6- ";*; 1PSU

1PSU
1PSSU
/0
OH
,M OH
,MBOH
H +
#
3" +" " #%6 - -")
35
,MBB
"
)
"
-"
6%
40
/
+"
65
3" 10
0
$)
)
/
&3
+"-"/3"+"6%"
)*(
+-
"4
b
% ,BKB
,BKBOH
,BK
)8
"
+!-05.'
+ !-05.'
! 30 10 +,)NTERNATIONAL
)
":
--
"!2 6 4 "
"!25 50 !IRPORT
P
(
"
. / /(
1" 4&
%
,BNQV
,BNQVOH
QVO
VOHH
"/
.
6
+- /
"
.
3" + " #
#BBSV
=
/( ,8 SO

1" 1
+-/
".
:"
, "5
/
5*/( Finder pp7885

-"
#&3
:" ". 1"/(
+"
3" "/
6
) $$
,-$$ +"- "NQBOH

" OH
&
# 1BSL to Stay pp2725
/(
-
1"
+"
". B > to Eat pp298301

-"
/ 16#-*$
-"
/
+"
-BLF
LF +5!,!,5-
!,!! -052
-
56
- && 4ZNQIPOZ
IPOZ
#VLJUU + #)49
#)49
9 #%.4%2
.4
+"
.
/
/BOB
/B
/BOBT 3" GETTING AROUND
-"
"-
##
+,## #
3"
/
A
1
the city on foot is not advisable

"
*/
/
1
;"
"
C
/
6 heavy traffic, air pollution, and

(
,
4
"/
-5 +"-" /,*" 1&/(

"
Q 4(
(%
( %
% / lack of sidewalks make walking
+"-
+- /
3BKB
0
'/,$%.
/,$%.
,$ .
50/
5&/(
") $IVMBO +"
-" d difficult. The best option is to
42)!.',%
)!.',%
)!
!. % /
+-/ 4
,*
*4 .
"/ O "
1& Kuala Lumpurs efficient public
+" $)6- +"-"/ $ 0 / - ": /(
sport system. Stesen Sentral (KL
"*-
3"
"5+)4
)4 : l Station) is the hub of the citys
").4!.'
4! ' $ / #6,*5 #*
/5 etwork, which consists of KTM,
#6 )"/
,*5 ( -" "/
(
# * / , "5 +" tional railway system; Light Rail
5"
/
(
t (LRT); the monorail; and KLIA
+"-"
/ 1 # VLJU
#VLJ
#
* m the international airport. KTM
6 #JOU
OUBOH 46/("*
%6 6/("* *. eful for out-of-town destinations
8" (1-";
8"/(1-";"
";"
"/ am, Klang, and Seremban to the

*NCJJ +"-
pres runs direct to KLIA airport,
)"
/ )BOH
)BOH )
stops at Putrajaya. LRT and the
( "
+& 5VBI
I city with numerous stops, as do
56
#"
5
ch offer an unlimited day travel
45
/(
"%
*6 the citys main bus station, and
)"
.
the hub for long-distance buses.
"/
+"-
"
53
/( 56")
16
"
*4.
8
)"
a
/
+"-"
Hou Temple at dusk

Street-by-Street: Merdeka Square

Located in the heart of Kuala Lumpurs colonial district,
Dataran Merdeka, or Independence Square, is a vast
rectangular grassy field that once hosted cricket matches
and parades. Surrounded by the mock-Tudor Royal
Selangor Club, the National History Museum, St. Marys
Cathedral, and the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, the
square offers a rare glimpse into the citys past. The
venue for many national events, it was here that the
Union Flag was finally lowered on August 31, 1957, Pitcher Plant Fountain
when independent Malaysia was born. Today, the Standing in a small garden
Malaysian flag flies at the southern end of the square. north of the square, this
unique water feature is styled
as a series of pitcher plants.
St. Marys Cathedral

Built in the English Gothic style
by A.C. Norman, this whitewashed
cathedral is home to an exceptiona
English pipe organ, installed in 189
. Royal Selangor Club

Affectionately known as The
Spotted Dog and once the
focus of colonial life in
Kuala Lumpur, this grand
mock-Tudor edifice is the
citys most prestigious
private club 3
STAR SIGHTS
. Royal Selangor Club
. Sultan Abdul Samad
Building
. Sultan Abdul Samad Building
. National History This flamboyant Moorish-style building dates from 1897.
Museum Dominating the eastern side of Merdeka Square, it now
houses a division of the Malaysian High Court 1
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2725 and pp298301
Masjid Jamek
Built in 1909 in stately Mughal style,
the Masjid Jamek, or Friday Mosque,
is the oldest surviving mosque in the
capital. It stands at the confluence
of the Klang and Gombak rivers,
where the citys first arrivals settled
in the 1850s 2
Central Market
. National History Museum

Originally home to the Chartered
Bank of India, Australia, and
China, this 19th-century building
The Flagpole is now a museum. Artifacts
The 328-ft (100-m) high free-standing flagpole include a seven-armed Buddha,
is believed to be the tallest in the world. The coral-encrusted porcelain, and
Malaysian flag is raised here on National Day. coins in animal shapes 4
The Royal Selangor Club, once the focus of colonial life
elegantly arched windows, forms a tranquil haven in

Sultan Abdul cupolas, an imposing porch, the middle of the city. The
Samad Building 1 and a soaring 133-ft (41-m) main prayer hall is open
clock tower, flanked by two only to Muslims. Visitors to
Jalan Raja Laut. Map 4 E2. smaller towers crowned with the mosque must be dressed
' Masjid Jamek. @ R101, R109. gleaming copper domes. The appropriately with arms and
building is the focus for mid- legs covered, and women
A magnificent Moorish edifice night celebrations on the eve must cover their heads.
presiding over the eastern of National Day (see p52) and Gowns are supplied free of
flank of Merdeka Square, the New Years
Y Eve. Today, it charge and shoes must be
Sultan Abdul Samad Building houses the commercial divi- removed before entering.
was built in 1897 to serve as sion of Malaysias High Court
the headquarters of colonial and although it is not open to
administration and named in the public, its striking faade Royal Selangor
honor of the ruler of Selangor makes it one of the capitals Club 3
at the time. Designed by A.C. most photographed landmarks.
Norman, a British architect Merdeka Square. Map 4 E2. Tell (03)
who also designed the nearby 2692-7166. ' Masjid Jamek. @
St. Marys Cathedral, the Masjid Jamek 2 R101, R109. www.rscweb.org.my
building is made of red brick
and white stone and draws Off Jalan Tun Perak. Map 4 E2. Established in 1884, the Royal
upon Mughal, Egyptian, and ' Masjid Jamek. @ R101. Selangor Club was at the
traditional Islamic styles. Its # 8:30am12:20pm, 2:304pm center of colonial social life
architectural features include daily. 11am2:30pm Fri. 7 in Kuala Lumpur. Expatriates
and officials gathered here
Standing at the confluence to relax, play billiards, and
of the Klang and Gombak watch cricket on the padang,
rivers, the site where Kuala now a part of Merdeka Square
Lumpur was founded, the (see pp6061). The club also
beautiful Masjid Jamek is the hosted traveling plays and
citys oldest mosque. Masjid musicals. In 1970, the original
Jamek, which means Friday building was destroyed by a
Mosque, was built in 1909 by fire, which was soon followed
architect A.B. Hubbock, who by a flood. The present black
was responsible for many of and white mock-Tudor build-
the countrys colonial city- ing, an authentic reproduction
scapes. The red brick and of the old club, was built in
marble building, with three 1980. Still referred to as The
large onion-shaped domes, Spotted Dog, the club remains
two minarets, and arched the preserve of the citys elite.
colonnades, was inspired The origin of its nickname
by Mughal architecture. attracted several theories,
Surrounded by palm groves, including one that traces it to
Sultan Abdul Samad Building with and with unrivaled views a pet Dalmatian that belonged
its grand clock tower downstream, the mosque to a former member.
National History
Museum 4
29 Jalan Raja. Map 4 E2.
Tell (03) 2694-4590. ' Masjid
Jamek. @ R101, R109. # daily. =
www.nationalhistorymuseum.
gov.my
Completed in 1891, this grand

Moorish-style building at the
southern end of Merdeka
Square was built to house
Kuala Lumpurs first bank.
During World War II, the struc-
ture was requisitioned as a
telecommunications base by
the then occupying Japanese The imposing faade of the National History Museum
army. In 1991, it was con-
verted into the Muzium Malay States (see p43), first get reasonable deals. There
Sejarah Nasional, or National unfurled on August 31, 1957, are a number of other outlets
History Museum, which gives at Merdeka Square, as well as that sell an eclectic assortment
an overview of the countrys the table on which the 1874 of goods ranging from guitars
history by compiling and Pangkor Treaty was signed. to ladies wigs.
chronicling key events and Upstairs, there is a good
artifacts from the Stone Age food court with separate
until independence. Central Market 5 counters offering dishes from
Museum displays include a various Malaysian states. A
collection of Paleolithic tools, Jalan Hang Kasturi. Map 4 E2. few restaurants are scattered
Neolithic pottery, replicas of Tell (03) 2031-0399. ' Pasar Seni. on both floors. The Central
megaliths that have been @ R101, R110, R111. # 10am Market is also a venue for
found around the country, 10pm daily. 7 first floor only. 0 free cultural performances.
and exquisite bronze Buddhas.
Upstairs, the timeline con- Housed in a powder-blue Art
tinues into the medieval and Deco building dating from Sze Ya Temple 6
colonial eras, focusing on the the 1930s, the Central Market
Portuguese and Dutch forays was formerly the citys main Lebuh Pudu. Map 4 F3.
into Malacca, with displays of fresh-produce market. It was ' Pasar Seni. @ R110, R111.
ceramics, coins, and weapons. rescued from dereliction and # 7am5pm daily.
Artifacts from the Japanese reopened as a modern shop-
occupation during World War ping complex in the 1980s. Located halfway down a
II, including army uniforms Also known as the Cultural narrow alley off Lebuh Pudu,
and a Samurai sword, are Bazaar, the building has arts the small Sze YYa Temple is
displayed on the top floor, and crafts shops that sell an built at an awkward angle to
along with photographs, docu- array of products including the road, a position said to
ments, and video footage wood carvings, batik, pottery, have been decided by the
from the independence move- paintings, and traditional principles of feng shui. The
ment. Also on display is the kites. Prices tend to be high oldest Taoist temple in Kuala
flag of the first Federation of and haggling is necessary to Lumpur, it was founded in
1864 by Yap
Y Ah Loy, the third
Kapitan China (see p65), who
also funded its construction.
Inside the temple, a statue
of Loy is installed left of the
main altar, while images of
the patron deities Si Sze YaY
and Sin Sze YYa occupy the
right. The interior is filled
with elaborate carvings and
the smell of burning incense.
The temple entrance is
guarded by statues of fierce
lions, a common feature in
Chinese and Taoist temples,
accompanied by statues of
storks. For an extra charge
visitors can have their for-
Colorful interior of the Sze Ya Temple, one of the oldest in the capital tunes told inside the temple.
Jalan Tun HS Lee, a major

thoroughfare, is the citys
principal Hindu temple, Sri
Maha Mariamman Temple.
Jalan Petaling
Market 8
Jalan Petaling. Map 4 F3. ' Pasar
Seni. @ R110. # 10am11pm.
The scene of the capitals

Gateway to Jalan Petaling most famous and lively street
in Chinatown market, Jalan Petaling is a
partly roofed string of stalls
Chinatown 7 specializing in fake designer
goods. Watches, clothes, Colorful gopuram of Sri Maha
Map 4 F3. ' Pasar Seni. wallets, handbags, and a Mariamman Temple
Maharajalela. @ R102, R110. profusion of pirated CDs and
_ Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb). DVDs are all sold openly. Sri Maha
There are few fixed prices,
Kuala Lumpurs relatively and with initial offers often Mariamman
small but vibrant Chinatown set unreasonably high, buyers Temple 9
is roughly bordered by Jalan are expected to haggle.
Hang Kasturi to the west and Interspersed with the stalls 163 Jalan Tun HS Lee. Map 4 F3.
Jalan Sultan to the east, with are a few shops that sell an Tell (03) 2078-3467. ' Pasar Seni.
Masjid Jamek and the Chan assortment of other goods @ R102. # 6am9pm daily.
See Shu Y Yuen Temple mark- such as a variety of dried _ Thaipusam (Jan/Feb).
ing its northern and southern meats and traditional medi-
limits respectively. The area cines. At the northern end is Established in 1873 as the
is a maze of narrow streets a vegetable and fruit market private shrine of a Tamil
and alleyways, dotted with and plenty of cheap cafs. family from southern India,
small Chinese temples and Jalan Petaling is just a Sri Maha Mariamman Temple
lined with old shophouses, normal shop-lined street in was rebuilt on its present site
medicine stores, and tradi- Chinatown until around 4 in 1885. Today, it is Kuala
tional family-run kedai kopi, or 5pm everyday, when the Lumpurs main Hindu temple.
or coffee shops, where locals area is closed off to traffic The building is said to be laid
gather to socialize. At the and transformed into a pasar out in the form of a reclining
heart of Chinatown is Jalan malam, or night market. human body, with the head
Petaling, with its bustling Many of the daytime stalls pointing to the west, and the
market and crowded cafs. pack up and are replaced by feet to the east. The feet are
Numerous modern shops and food stalls that sell a tempting represented by a five-tiered
chain stores add a contem- array of Indian, Malay, and gopuram, or entrance gate,
porary touch to this ethnic Chinese delicacies. Local which is decorated with
enclave. Chinatown is also souvenirs are also available. intricately carved statues of
home to much of the citys Both the day and night mar- various Hindu deities. During
budget accommodation. The kets attract large crowds and an extensive renovation of the
area, however, is not exclu- visitors must be careful of temple in the 1960s, gold and
sively Chinese. Located on their belongings. precious stones as well as
Spanish and Italian tiles were
added to the gopuram.
Inside the temple are sev-
eral altars displaying images
of Hindu gods. The temple
also houses the ornate silver
chariot used in a procession
during the fascinating annual
Thaipusam festival (see p29).
The chariot is brought out
from the temples vault during
the celebration, when up to
a million devotees converge
here and make their way up
to the Hindu shrine at Batu
Caves (see p90). Visitors must
remove their shoes before
Traditional tea shop at the Jalan Petaling street market entering the temple.
Chan See Shu Yuen

Temple 0
172 Jalan Petaling. Map 4 F4.
Tell (03) 2078-1461. ' Pasar Seni.
Maharajalela. @ R110.
www.cssykl.com
Built between 1897 and 1906,

Chan See Shu Y Yuen Temple
is said to be one of the finest
examples of southern Chinese
architecture in Malaysia. It
features an elaborate pottery-
tiled roof and undulating
gables as well as superbly
sculpted green- and blue-
glazed ceramic friezes depict-
ing mythological scenes on
the faade. Decorating the
edges of the temple are blue Detail of friezes carved on the faade of the Chan See Shu Yuen Temple
ceramic vases. On either side
of the main entrance are capable of withstanding up
shrines to the female and
Kuala Lumpur to 3 ft (1 m) of snow. The
male guardians of the door- Railway Station q concrete structure was built
way, with incense burning to replace an attap, or thatch-
continually before them. Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin. roofed shed, which had
The temple is essentially a Map 4 E4. @ R109. 7 - = served as the railroad terminal
clan association, representing since 1886 when the first
families bearing the related Among the best examples railroad line was constructed.
names of Chan, Chen, or Tan, of colonial architecture in For 90 years it was the citys
and is dedicated to the family Malaysia, the ornate Kuala main intercity rail terminal,
ancestors. Enshrined at the Lumpur Railway Station is until it was replaced in 2001
central altar of the temple are a majestic, gleaming white by the state-of-f the-art KL
images of the clan founders, building with Moorish arches, Sentral Station, a few streets
Chan Siow Ling, Chan Xin Xi, balustrades, minarets, and to the south. Now only KTM
and Chan Zai Tian, while cupolas. Completed in 1911, Komuter trains pass through
above the altar, to the right it was designed by the British this historic station. Still, it
and left, are a series of black architect A.B. Hubbock, who remains one of the citys most
and white photographs of is also known for the striking notable landmarks. Some of
deceased clan members. Masjid Jamek (see p62). the best views of the building
Framing the central shrine Beneath the Islamic exterior, are from Jalan Kinabalu.
are gilded wooden panels the building was constructed The colonial-era Heritage
painted with scenes of according to specifications for Station Hotel (see p275),
warriors battling lions and railroad stations in England one of the grandest in its
mythical creatures. and included an iron roof time, continues to occupy
a section of the station.
KAPITAN
T CHINA
The office of Kapitan China, or headman of the Chinese
community of Kuala Lumpur, was instituted in 1858 by Rajah
Abdullah, Chief of Selangor state, as a way of imposing
order on the fractious Chinese immigrants and their
societies. In 1869, Yap
Y Ah Loy, a fierce
mbitious immigrant from southern China,
ame the third Kapitan China. He soon
und himself at the center of a bloody civil
war between different Chinese groups and
ocal Malays, but a major victory led by
him in Kuala Lumpur in 1873, along with
he arrival of the first British Resident in
1874 (see p41), put an end to the fighting.
He remained headman until his death in
1885. Also credited with establishing the
city as a major economic powerhouse,
Kapitan China Y Ah Loy is considered the founding
Yap
Yap Ah Loy father of modern Kuala Lumpur. The magnificent edifice of the
Kuala Lumpur Railway Station
depicting scenes from the

nations history. Inside, four
themed galleries provide an
introduction to Malaysias
ethnography and natural
history. The Cultural Gallery
and Faces of Malaysia Gallery
both exhibit colorful tradi-
tional costumes as well as
handicrafts such as kites and
shadow-puppets. Dioramas
illustrating some unique
rituals of the Malay, Chinese,
and Indian communities are
also on display. The Natural
History Gallery is filled with
The striking 18-pointed roof of Masjid Negara, the national mosque examples of native animals,
insects, and flora. The fourth
Masjid Negara w Islamic Arts gallery has an impressive col-
lection of antique weapons,
Jalan Perdana. Map 4 D3. Tell (03)
Museum e musical instruments, and
2693-7784. KL Railway Station. Southeast Asian ceramics.
See pp689.
@ R109. # 9amnoon, 34pm The small KLTA Tourist
and 5:306:30pm daily. 2:45 Information Center is within
6:30pm Fri. the museum grounds.
National
Built in 1965, Masjid Negara Museum r
is Malaysias national mosque. Lake Gardens t
Set in sprawling gardens that Jalan Damansara. Map 3 C4.
contain pools and fountains, Tell (03) 2282-6255. KL Stesen Jalan Perdana. Map 3 B3.
it is a vast modern building Sentral, then a short walk. ' Stesen KL Railway Station. ' Stesen
with room for up to 15,000 Sentral, then a short walk. @ R109. Sentral. @ R109. 7 - =
worshipers. The main prayer # daily. & 7 - = Bird Park Tell (03) 2272-1010.
# 9am7pm daily. & Bird
hall is open only to Muslims. www.museum.gov.my KLTA
feeding and shows check
The hall is covered with a Tourist Information Center
website for times.
distinctive dome in the shape Tell (03) 2287-1830.
www.birdpark.com.my
of a stylized 18-point star, Butterfly Park Tell (03) 2693-
representing the 13 states of Opened in 1963, the 4799. # daily. & National
Malaysia and the five pillars National Museum, or Planetarium Tell (03) 2273-
of Islam. Towering over the Muzium Negara, is 4303. # 9:30am4:15pm
mosque is a slender 240-ft built on the site of the TueSun. Mon. &
(73-m) high minaret. Visitors old Selangor Museum www.angkasa.gov.my
are welcome to explore the which was destroyed Chinese ceramic
entire complex but must be by Allied bombing vase at the Lying on the western
appropriately dressed at all during World War II. National Museum edge of the city center
times and headscarves are It is housed in a repro- is the Lake Gardens,
mandatory for women. Shoes duction of a traditional known in Malay as Taman
must be removed before Malay palace and its faade Tasik Perdana. It is a beautiful
entering the building. is adorned with murals expanse of greenery laid out
in the late 19th century as a
tranquil residential area for
the governing British elite.
Today, the Lake Gardens is
the capitals biggest and most
popular park, with a large
lake at its center where boats
can be hired. Plenty of walk-
ing trails crisscross the park.
Within the gardens are a
number of other attractions,
the highlight of which is
the Bird Park. Said to be the
worlds largest walk-in free-
flight aviary, the park houses
around 3,000 tropical birds
including flamingos, hornbills,
and parrots. There is also a
A gallery at the Muzium Negara, or National Museum Butterfly Park which is home
to over 6,000 butterflies of Thean Hou

at least 120 different species.
Close by is the Orchid Garden,
Temple u
which showcases over 800 62 Persiaran Indah, off Jalan Syed
species of Malay orchids, Putra. Tell (03) 2274-7088. from
which are for sale during the Stesen Sentral. # 8am10pm;
weekend. On the southern 6ammidnight during Chinese New
edge of the Lake Gardens Year. - = _ Chinese New Year
is the National Planetarium, (Jan/Feb).
which stages various shows
and screens IMAX A movies. Perched on a hill southwest
The 50-ft (15-m) high bronze of the city center, the Thean
National Monument which Hou Temple is a striking 3-tier
commemorates the defeat of Chinese temple. Built in the
the Communist insurgency 1980s, this is one of the
dominates the northern end biggest Chinese temples in
of the park. It was created Plush dining room at Carcosa Seri Malaysia. It is dedicated
in 1966 by Felix de Weldon, Negara, a luxury hotel to Thean Hou, or heavenly
who was best known for mother, the patron deity of
the Iwo Jima monument in formerly known as The House sailors and fishermen. An
Washington, D.C. Among the on the Hill, was constructed image of the goddess, also
fine colonial mansions built as a home for Sir Frank known as Ma Zu, is enshrined
here is Carcosa Seri Negara, Swettenham, the first British in the main hall, flanked by
which presides over the Resident-General of the statues of Sui Wei, goddess of
western boundary of the Federation of Malay States the waterfront, and Kuan Yin,
gardens. The smaller muse- (see p41), a function it conti- goddess of mercy. Statues of
ums around the park are nued to serve for subsequent the Laughing Buddha and
dedicated to the police, British governors. The second other Buddhist and Taoist
civil service, banking, and building, Seri Negara, earlier images are also kept here.
former political leaders. known as the Kings House, The temple has a series of
was the official home of traditional Chinese-style roofs
the Governor of the Straits decorated with golden drag-
Carcosa Seri Settlements. After indepen- ons, phoenix, and a canopy
Negara y dence and until 1987, Carcosa of red paper lanterns. Built
was the official residence of on four levels, it has food out-
Lake Gardens. Map 3 B3. Tell (03) the British High Commissioner lets and shops on the ground
2295-0888. KL Railway Station. while Seri Negara functioned level, while the main shrine is
' Stesen Sentral. 7 0 - as a state guesthouse for visit- on the third floor. The temple
www.carcosa.com.my ing foreign dignitaries. Today, also serves as a community
the two buildings together center, and a hall on the sec-
This exquisite pair of colonial form one of Kuala Lumpurs ond level forms the venue for
mansions set in their own finest boutique hotels (see social gatherings such as wed-
grounds on the edge of the p275), and contain two award- dings. Outside the building
Lake Gardens were built winning restaurants including stand twelve statues, which
between 1896 and 1904. the elegant, colonial Mahsuri represent the twelve animals
The first building, Carcosa, Dining Room (see p301). of the Chinese zodiac.
The extravagant Thean Hou Temple, with a series of tiled, Chinese-style roofs
Islamic Arts Museum e
Situated on the eastern edge of the Lake

Gardens (see p66), the Islamic Arts Museum
houses fascinating exhibits from the Muslim
world. Opened in 1998, the museum has
the largest collection of its kind in Southeast
Asia with over 7,000 artifacts. The building
itself is an impressive modern construction
topped by turquoise domes, with Iranian
Coin tree, tilework on columns at the entrance.
Malay World
Gallery
Inside, five elegant domes created by
Uzbek craftsmen decorate the ceilings.
The emphasis of the exhibits here is on Asian arts in
addition to those from Persia and the Middle East. The magnificent dome at the
Inverted Dome Pavilion
The state-of-the-art auditorium

seats up to 250 people and is
used for seminars and lectures.
The Inverted Dome Pavilion is an

airy exhibition hall with its unique
dome executed in white and gold,
bearing extracts from the Koran.
Ground
floor Fountain
The Architecture Gallery garden
The main focus of this gallery is
the collection of scale models
of mosques, including
Lower
the Dome on the Rock,
Ground
Taj Mahal, and the
Al-Haram Mosque. -
0
m e
e
e
Preview
n room
=
d =
Woodwork Main entrance

Gallery
Briefing hall
Located on Level 2,
the gallery exhibits Childrens library
elaborately crafted
wooden artifacts often The Education Department
embellished with ivory conducts workshops on art
and mother-of-pearl. and activities for children.
STAR EXHIBITS GALLERY GUIDE

The permanent displays begin on Level 1 with the Architecture
. Turkish Iznik Tiles Gallery, which has detailed scale models of mosques. Nearby is
the Manuscript Gallery, a reconstructed Ottoman Room, and
. Jewelry Gallery galleries dedicated to China, India, and Malaysia. Level 2 has
the Jewelry, Arms and Armor, Coin, Metalwork, Woodwork,
. Standard Chartered Ceramics, and Textile galleries. On the Ground and Lower
Ottoman Room Ground floors are two galleries for temporary exhibitions. The
non-exhibition area has facilities for research and education.
Quran and VISITORS CHECKLIST

Manuscript
Gallery Jalan Lembah Perdana.
This gallery features Map 4 D3. Tell (03) 2274-2020.
handwritten Korans, Kuala Lumpur Railway
Station. # 10am6pm Tue
Sultans decrees,
Sun. & 8 0 - =
miniature paintings, www.iamm.org.my
and scholarly works
on botany and
astronomy.
. Turkish Iznik Tiles

The Coin Gallery displays gold and These glazed tiles with
silver Islamic coins, noted for intricate stylized trees, fruits, and
Ottoman and Mughal calligraphy. foliage in vibrant hues
Library
were first produced in the
Turkish city of Iznik in the
16th and 17th centuries.
Level 2
Level 1 m
e
Main dome and

viewing terrace
m e
e
. Jewelry Gallery
Ornaments from
across Asia are
housed here,
including Iranian
gold anklets and a
19th-century gold
The and ruby necklace
Architecture
Gallery
from Mughal India.
KEY
The China Gallery displays Chinese Jewelry Gallery
manuscripts, a Koran, and blue and
Arms and Armor Gallery
white porcelain with Arabic script.
Textile Gallery
Woodwork Gallery
Coin Gallery
. Standard
Chartered Metalwork Gallery
Ottoman Room Ceramics and Glassware Gallery
This room once
Architecture Gallery
belonged to a lavish
house built in Syria Quran and Manuscript Gallery
in 1820 and has now India Gallery
been restored to its
China Gallery
original appearance.
It is spectacularly Malay World Gallery
decorated with Temporary exhibitions
painted wood
Non-exhibition space
paneling.
Key to Symbols see back flap
Masjid India i fabric, jewelry, flowers, and

spices. There are also a num-
Jalan Masjid India. Map 4 F1. ber of hawker stalls that sell
' Masjid Jamek. @ R109. 7 a variety of delicious and tra-
ditional Indian snacks such
Originally built as a modest as pakorass and samosas.
wooden structure in 1863, At the end of Jalan Masjid
Masjid India has been rebuilt India is Lorong Bunus, which
and upgraded a number of marks the northern limit of
times over the years. The Little India. It leads to Lorong
present building was com- Tuanku Abdul Rahman, a
pleted in 1966, and designed narrow lane that is the venue
in southern Indian style, with of another of the capitals pop-
onion-domed cupolas and ular pasar malams, or night
elegant arched windows. markets. An assortment of
The three-story mosque, is Indian goods are sold here,
the main place of worship including household items
for Kuala Lumpurs Indian and brassware, and it is also Poster of a feature film screened
Muslims. It has the capacity one of the best places in the at the Coliseum Cinema
to accommodate up to 3,500 city to sample authentic
devotees, with separate floors Indian street food. During such as the Global Silk Store
for men and women. the day, artisans, including (see p318) as well as the
garland makers, can be seen small, bazaar-style carpet
at work all along the street. shops clustered around its
southern end. The Japanese
department store Sogo is
Jalan Tuanku Abdul also located on this road.
Rahman p Despite a lot of modern
development in recent years,
Map 1 B3. ' Bandaraya. @ R101, Jalan TTARR has retained much
R109. Coliseum Cinema 96 Jalan of its historic architecture,
Tuanku Abdul Rahman. Tell (03) revealed in many of the
2692-5995. striking 19th- and early 20th-
century faades that still exist
Named for the first king of above the gaudy shop signs.
independent Malaysia, and Among the most interesting
commonly known as Jalan and significant of these struc-
T , Jalan Tuanku Abdul
TAR tures is the Coliseum Cinema.
Rahman is one of the busiest Barring a few years during
roads in Kuala Lumpur and is World War II, the cinema has
constantly choked with traffic. been in business since 1921,
Stretching north from Merdeka making it Kuala Lumpurs
Vibrant silk cloth and garments on Square to Little India, it is oldest running movie hall.
sale at a Little India stall one of the citys most popular These days, it screens Hindi
shopping destinations, parti- and southern Indian Tamil
Little India o cularly known for silk shops films. Visitors are free to
Jalan Masjid India and environs.

Map 1 B5. ' Masjid Jamek,
Bandaraya. @ R101 to Jalan Tuanku
Abdul Rahman. _ Deepavali (Oct).
Although tiny in comparison

with the Indian enclaves of
Singapore or even Georgetown
in Penang, Kuala Lumpurs
Little India is equally lively
and colorful, steeped in the
history and culture of the
capitals Indian community.
Jalan Masjid India is the
main street of this ethnic
quarter, which takes its name
from Masjid India. Rows of
shops and stalls line the
street, and are crammed with
Indian merchandise such as
saris, silk cloth and other Faade of the Coliseum Cinema, which dates back to the colonial era
explore the building. Next

door to the cinema, and
built around the same time,
the Coliseum Caf and Hotel
was once the favorite haunt
of colonial planters and tin
miners. It also counts English
author Somerset Maugham
among its early patrons.
The Coliseum Caf and
Hotel still offers cheap meals,
budget accommodation,
and an authentic early 20th-
century atmosphere that has
changed little over the years.
Chow Kit
Market a Roadside vendor at Chow Kit Market, one of the citys largest day markets
Jalan Haji Hussein. Map 1 B4. bustling, and often lasts into the second floor with the
Chow Kit. @ R109. # 10am the early hours. As with other paintings arranged into
2am daily. crowded areas, visitors should themes such as Spirituality
be vigilant of pickpockets, and Work. Highlights include
Strung out along the narrow especially after dark. Patrick Ng Kah Onns Spirit of
lanes and alleys just to the the Earth, Sky and Water;
east of Jalan Tuanku Abdul Samjis Mat Jans portrait of a
Rahman, Chow Kit Market is National Art boy in Rendezvous; Ismail
one of the citys biggest and Gallery s Mat Husseins batik canvases
most popular street markets. depicting traditional village
It is divided into various Jalan Temerloh. Map 2 D1. Tell (03) life; and Ooi Kooi Hins Its So
sections and is especially 4025-4990. ' Titiwangsa. @ R104. Quiet, in which a woman
known for its fresh produce, # 10am6pm TueSun. 8 11am screams in a room filled with
which includes everything & 2:30pm TueSun, 10:30am & corpses. The temporary
from exotic fruits and vege- 3pm Fri. 7 ^ = www.artgallery. shows of modern Asian art
tables to live seafood, dried gov.my National Theater Tell (03) include photography, sculp-
anchovies, and meat. Stall 4026-5555. # box office: 10am ture, and installation art.
owners shout out their wares 6pm MonFri. 7 Next door, the striking
to vie for attention while National Theater, designed
porters busily ferry trays Home to the citys finest in the shape of a wau bulan,
and carts laden with goods permanent collection of con- or Malay kite, hosts several
between the stalls. Although temporary Malaysian art, the interesting cultural shows as
the smells can be overpower- National Art Gallery also hosts well as national and inter-
ing and the narrow wooden temporary exhibitions of Asian national theater, and also
walkways wet and slippery, and international art. The features a traditional Malay
the market offers an interest- permanent collection is on theater costume gallery.
ing glimpse of everyday life
in Kuala Lumpur. Chow Kit
Market is also one of the best
places to buy secondhand
clothes. Numerous other stalls
selling household goods,
shoes, watches, and a wide
variety of every
r day items fill
the market.
Most of Chow Kit Market,
especially the fresh produce
sections, closes before 6pm,
which is when the night mar-
ket takes over. A profusion
of hawker stalls set up shop,
offering a variety of Malay
snacks, as well as inexpensive
but substantial meals, cooked
in the traditional way. Indian
and Chinese food, authenti-
cally prepared, is also on
offer. The market is always Contemporary art exhibits at the National Art Gallery
Titiwangsa Lake
Gardens d
Jalan Temerloh. ' Titiwangsa.
Titiwangsa. @ R106.
70-
Located on the northern

fringes of the city, these
peaceful, manicured gardens
are a great escape from the
urban bustle and a popular
recreational space. Laid out
around a vast man-made
lake, the lush gardens are a
visual treat and also a perfect
place to relax, go jogging, or
even go boating. There is a
herb garden, a lovely lotus
pond, and a playground for
children. The gardens
Nelayan Restaurant hosts
cultural performances on
most evenings.
Kampung Baru
and Pasar Minggu
Market f Petronas Towers, the tallest twin structures in the world, until recently
Jalan Raja Muda Musa. Map 2 D4. busy Chow Kit area marking Petronas Towers g
' Kampung Baru. @ R102 & R103 its western boundary. While
to Jalan Raja Muda Abdul Aziz. the old-fashioned kampung- Jalan Ampang. Map 2F4. Tell (03)
style houses and the 1920s 2331-8080. ' KLCC. @ R109.
Established in 1899, the Masjid Jamek on Jalan Raja # Skybridge: 8:30am5pm TueSun.
village of Kampung Baru Abdullah are worth a visit, the Mon, 12:30pm Fri. 7 =
is the oldest Malay residential real highlight of Kampung www.petronastwintowers.com.my
area in Kuala Lumpur. Its Baru is the glimpse it offers of
traditional wooden houses, an older, more leisurely way Soaring to a height of 1,483 ft
some on stilts, are still found of life that seems to be (452 m), the 88-story Petronas
throughout this small settle- rapidly disappearing under Towers are an internationally
ment which lies to the north the increasingly fast pace of recognized symbol of modern
of the Sungai Klang, roughly modern Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia. Designed by the
between Jalan Raja Muda The area comes alive famous Argentinian
Musa and Jalan Raja Muda on Saturday nights for architect Cesar Pelli,
Abdul Aziz, with Jalan Raja the locally popular who also designed the
Abdullah and the incredibly Pasar Minggu, or Canary Wharf Tower
Sunday Market. Stalls in London, the Petronas
are set up along Jalan Starfruit at Towers were com-
Raja Muda Musa and Pasar Minggu pleted in 1998. Built
Jalan Raja Alang at with heat-reflecting
about 6pm on Saturday stainless steel and laminated
evening, and stay open until glass, and crowned by steel
1am, or the early hours of pinnacles, the towers resemble
Sunday morning. On sale a pair of minarets. The eight-
are a wide variety of clothes, sided star of the floorplan and
jewelry, handicrafts, and the overall architecture reflect
textiles, including reasonably Islamic principles of unity and
priced batikk and locally harmony. The towers house
woven songkett fabric. Plenty the national petroleum and
of food and fresh produce is oil company, Petronas. The
available, as well as numer- skybridge, linking the towers
ous hawker stalls tempting at the 41st floor, offers visitors
shoppers with delicious, tra- a birds-eye view of the city.
ditional Malay street food. A Only 800 free tickets for the
Street food being prepared at few basic cafs offer visitors skybridge are issued daily,
Pasar Minggu more substantial meal options. and visitors must line up early.
Suria KLCC and Aquaria KLCC j

KLCC Gardens h Jalan Pinang. Map 2 F5. Tel (03)
2333-1888. ' KLCC. @ R105,
Jalan Ampang. Map 2 F5.
R106. # 11am8pm daily. &
Tel (03) 2382-3326. ' KLCC.
7 = www.klaquaria.com
@ R106. # daily. 7 free hire
inside Suria KLCC. 0 - =
www.suriaklcc.com.my KLCC Occupying two levels within
Gardens # 7am10pm. Galeri the Kuala Lumpur Convention
Petronas Tell (03) 2051-7770. # Center, a short walk from the
TueSun. 7 = Petrosains Tell (03) Petronas Towers, Aquaria
2331-8181. # 9:30am4pm KLCC is a visual treat. This
TueThu, 1:304pm Fri, 9:30am5pm enormous state-of-the-art
SatSun. & = aquarium is home to over
5,000 creatures, both aquatic
Spread out over six floors and terrestrial, including
inside the Petronas Towers, around 150 different species
Suria KLCC is one of the citys of fish from across the world.
busiest and glitziest shopping Conceptualized around the
malls, with numerous chain route that water takes from
stores, restaurants, coffee The glitzy interior of the Suria the mountains to the sea, the
bars, and a cinema, as well KLCC shopping mall aquarium recreates various
as banks, AT
A Ms, and a post ecosystems. The journey
office. A range of giant inter- both young and adult visitors begins in the highlands and
national department stores are the demonstrations and is followed by a flooded for-
have branches here, including interactive sessions at the est display where giant catfish
Isetan and Parkson, along science stations. can be seen lurking among
with specialist retailers and The lush KLCC Gardens tree roots. Other ecosystems
fast-food outlets. sprawling in front of the com- include mangroves, coral
On the third floor is the plex offer a welcome respite reefs, and the spectacular
Galeri Petronas, which hosts from city traffic. The gardens open ocean. A highlight is the
rotating exhibitions of tradi- are laid out with benches and 295-ft (90-m) long moving
tional and contemporary art, shelters, a jogging track for walkway underwater tunnel,
both from Asia and farther the more energetic, and a which offers views of a simu-
afield. Petrosains, on the childrens playground. Planted lated natural habitat and a
fourth floor, is an excellent with over 1,900 native trees, shipwreck colonized by reef
interactive science discovery many bearing explanation inhabitants, as well as close-
center. YYoung visitors can plaques, and centered on an up sightings of stingrays, eels,
learn about petroleum science artificial lake with dancing and rare sand tiger sharks.
and technology through a fountains, the gardens are a A theater screens films on
range of engaging hands-on cool and pleasant place to wan- Malaysias marine life, and
exhibits, and can also visit a der around in the evenings. a touch pool lets children
mock oil rig, try a helicopter However, whistle-blowing handle aquatic creatures.
flight simulator, and learn security guards discourage More adventurous visitors can
about prehistory in the geo- visitors from lingering in the even swim with sharks, but
time diorama. Of interest to gardens beyond closing time. advance booking is essential.
Visitors observing a school of fish through the glass of a giant tank at the Aquaria KLCC
malls, including Lot 10 and

Sungai Wang Plaza. Adding
local flavor are pavement
reflexologists and Middle-
Eastern cafs where locals
puff hookahs, or tobacco
pipes. Changkat Bukit Bintang
is another street offering chic
bars and restaurants. The
countrys biggest shopping
mall, Berjaya Times Square,
dominates Jalan Imbi while
most of the top-end hotels lie
on Jalan Sultan Ismail.
Menara KL and
Malaysian Tourism Information Complex, housed in a colonial mansion
Bukit Nanas Forest
Malaysian Tourism The Golden Reserve z
Information Triangle l 2 Jalan Punchak, off Jalan P Ramlee.
Complex k Map 1 C5. Bukit Bintang, Imbi.
Map 5 A1. Tell (03) 2020-5444.
Bukit Nanas. # 9am10pm
@ R107, R108. daily; cultural shows: 11am & 4pm
109 Jalan Ampang. Map 2 E5.
Tell (03) 2163-3664. ' KLCC. ThuSun. & 0 - = www.
Bukit Nanas. @ R106. # 7am Spread over a large, roughly menarakl.com.my Bukit Nanas
10pm daily; cultural shows: 22:30pm triangular area with its apex Forest Reserve # 7am6pm daily.
Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun, traditional at Jalan Ampang in the north 8 arranged by Menara KL. 7
games: 4pm Sat & Sun 7 0 = and its base formed by Jalan
www.mtc.gov.my Imbi in the south, the Golden Built as a communications
Triangle is Kuala Lumpurs tower between 1991 and 1996,
The largest tourist center in main business, shopping, and Menara KL, or KL tower, is
Kuala Lumpur, the Malaysian nightlife district. Among the among the five tallest towers
Tourism Information Complex sea of glitzy high-rise build- in the world. It stands at a
is housed in an impressive ings are most of the citys height of 1,380 ft (421 m).
colonial mansion. Built on prominent shopping malls, Its lobby has several shops,
the site of an old rambutan along with countless bars, restaurants, and a theater
orchard in 1935, it was for- restaurants, cafs, and premier where a video of the towers
merly the home of Eu Tong hotels, including the Mandarin construction is screened. A
Seng, a wealthy Chinese tin Oriental (see p275), which is lift whisks visitors up to the
and rubber businessman. Not located opposite the Petronas observation deck for a pan-
long after its construction, Towers. At the heart of the oramic view of the city. At a
World War II broke out and Golden Triangle is Jalan Bukit dizzying height of 905 ft (276
the house was taken over by Bintang with its trendy bars, m), it is more than 328 ft (100
the British military and used eateries, and the biggest m) higher than the skybridge
as their war office. It was sub- concentration of shopping at the Petronas Towers. Even
sequently captured by the farther up is a revolving res-
Japanese army, who converted taurant, Seri Angkasa, which
it into their headquarters in features afternoon teas and
Malaysia for the remainder also traditional music and
the war. After independence, dance performances.
the building housed several At the base of the tower
government agencies and is Malaysias oldest nature
also witnessed the coronation reserve, the Bukit Nanas
ceremonies of four successive Forest Reserve, gazetted in
Malaysian kings. 1906. This legal status saved
Today, the main building the 27-acre (11-ha) slice of
in the complex houses the rain forest from destruction
Malaysia tourist information when the tower was built,
office, while several annexes and even resulted in a rework-
contain a tourist police office, ing of the architectural plans
restaurant, and a concert hall to avoid the cutting down of
where regular cultural shows a 100-year old jelutongg tree.
are performed (see p321). Although small, the preserve
Traditional games, such as supports a rich variety of wild-
top-spinning, are also hosted Mandarin Oriental, a luxury hotel life, including monkeys and
here over the weekends. in the Golden Triangle squirrels, as well as numerous
View of Kuala Lumpur from the soaring heights of the Menara KL observation deck
tropical trees. Visitors can features dioramas of artisans

explore this patch of rain Kompleks Budaya creating their wares with dis-
forest by its three short Kraf c plays of the various tools they
walking trails. would have used.
63 Jalan Conlay. Map 6 E1. Tell (03) In the exhibition areas
2162-7459. ' KLCC. Raja and workshops, craftspeople
Badan Warisan x Chulan. @ R108. # daily. & 7 demonstrate ethnic art and
- = www.kraftangan.gov.my craft skills, such as weaving,
2 Jalan Stonor. Map 6 E1. Tell (03) ik-printing, and silver
2144-9273. Raja Chulan. Located on the eastern d copperwork. Visitors
@ R108. # 10am5:30pm Mon edge of the Golden re welcome to try their
Sat. Sun. & 8 11am & 3pm Triangle, Komplex Budaya and and can also receive
MonSat. 7 limited. = www. Kraf is a handicrafts com- ssons in a particular
badanwarisan.org.my plex that showcases a craft. The complex is
wide range of traditional one of the best places
Founded in 1983 for the arts and crafts from in Kuala Lumpur to buy
conservation of Malaysias the various states of these local handicrafts,
architectural heritage, Badan Peninsular Malaysia Earthenware at with a number of
Warisan is a non-government and Malaysian Borneo. Budaya Kraf shops and stalls selling
organization that runs regular It is made up of four pewter, silverwork,
campaigns and projects to separate buildings that house pottery, woodcarvings, hand-
save historical buildings from shops and stalls, a museum, woven textiles, batik, and
neglect and destruction. In exhibition areas, and several beadwork, alongside more
1995, it renovated a colonial workshops. The museum unusual items such as rattan
bungalow on Jalan Stonor traces the history and develop- fishtraps, birdcages, and
and turned it into a heritage ment of age-old crafts and tribal blowpipes.
center, with exhibition facili-
ties for art and craft shows as
well as a resource center with
books, drawings, slides, and
photographs for those keen to
learn more about the organiza-
tions conservation work. The
highlight is Rumuh Penghulu
Abu Seman, a traditional
Malay wooden house dating
from the 1920s. It was brought
to this site in a state of serious
disrepair from a village in
Kedah. Since then, it has been
expertly restored and now
serves as a showpiece for
modern conservation methods. An array of traditional handicrafts on sale at the Kompleks Budaya Kraf
be one of the largest mosques

in Southeast Asia and the
largest in Malaysia.
Nearby is the Museum
Sultan Azlan Shah with
extensive displays covering
the history of Selangor from
prehistoric times to the pre-
sent day. It also contains
galleries dedicated to the
states wildlife as well as its
sporting achievements. To
the west of the museum is
the attractively landscaped
Lake Gardens, home to the
Galeri Shah Alam, a modern
art gallery located in a
traditional Malay wooden
building which hosts tem-
porary exhibitions of modern
art over three separate
galleries. On the opposite
Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah Mosque in Shah Alam side of the lake is the Wet
World Water Park, a water
FRIM v Shah Alam b theme park with pools, slides,
and rides (see p321).
Kepong, 10 miles (16 km) NW of 11 miles (18 km) W of Kuala
Kuala Lumpur. Tell (03) 6279-7000. Lumpur. * 319,600. @
to Kepong, then taxi. # park: n Jalan Indah 14, (03) 5513-2000. Klang n
5am7:30pm; museum: 8am _ Bon Odori Festival (Jul). Museum
4:30pm. & for vehicles; canopy Sultan Azlan Shah Persian 18 miles (30 km) SW of Kuala
tours. 8 7 limited. - = Bandaraya. Tell (03) 5519-0050. Lumpur. * 563,200. @
www.frim.gov.my # 9:30am5:30pm TueSun. www.mpklang.gov.my Gedung
Mon, noon2:45pm Fri. 7 Raja Abdullah Jalan Raja Abdullah.
Occupying 2 sq miles (5 sq Galeri Shah Alam Persiaran Tasik. Tell (03) 5519-0050. # 10am6pm
km) of parkland within the Tell (03) 5510-5344. # 8:30am TueSun.
Bukit Lagong Forest Reserve, 5:30pm daily. 12:152:45pm Fri.
the Forest Research Institute Wet World Water Park Tell (03) The former royal capital of
of Malaysia (FRIM) was 5513-2020. # 17pm Mon, Selangor, the city of Klang,
founded in 1929 as a research Tue, Thu, Fri; 10am8pm Sat flourished during the 19th-
and development center for & Sun. & - century boom in the tin
tropical forests, with a special industry. However, in 1867,
emphasis on sustainable Designated the state capital of civil war erupted owing to the
forest management. An Selangor in 1978, Shah Alam rivalry between the two local
on-site museum explains is a well-planned modern city chieftains, Rajah Mahadi and
the centers work. There are sprawled over a large area. It Rajah Abdullah. The fighting
several arboreta of native is essentially an industrial and was ended in 1874 when the
trees, including the most administrative center, and British authorities intervened
comprehensive collec- s rarely visited by tour- and installed the first Resident
tion of dipterocarp ists. Still, the areas in the town. The discovery
(hardwood) species few sights of interest, of new tin deposits in Kuala
in the world. Also most of which are
in the grounds is a within walking dis-
traditional Malay house ance of each other,
brought here from FRIM logo make it a pleasant day
Terengganu (see p141). trip. Located in a park
Among the highlights of a at the center of town is the
visit to FRIM is the 656-ft citys main attraction, the
(200-m) long canopy Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz
walkway suspended 98 ft Shah Mosque, more popularly
(30 m) above ground, which known as the Blue Mosque
offers a fascinating close-up owing to its large blue and
view of the treetops. There silver aluminum dome. Its
are also a number of easy four 466-ft (142-m) high min-
walking trails, a more arets are said to be the tallest
strenuous mountain bike trail, in the world. The mosque can
camping, bird-watching, and accommodate up to 24,000 Inscribed mausoleum at Masjid Di
picnic areas. worshipers and is reputed to Raja Sultan Suleiman in Klang
Lumpur in 1880 further Putrajaya ,

diminished the importance
of Klang. Today, the city is a 15 miles (25 km) SW of Kuala
commercial center, with most Lumpur. * 45,000. KLIA Transit
sights of interest located in from Stesen Sentral. @ n Precinct
the old town, south of the 1, (03) 8888-7272. www.ppj.gov.my
Sungai Klang. Botanic Garden Precinct 1.
Built in 1857, Gedung Raja # 7am7pm daily. & 7 0 -
Abdullah was the former res- = Putrajaya Wetlands Precinct
idence of Rajah Abdullah. The 13. Tell (03) 8925-3817. # 10am
building now houses the Tin 6pm Tue-Fri, 7am7pm Sat & Sun.
Museum, which traces the &-=
history of the local mining
industry through archived Founded in 1995, Putrajaya is
photographs and other arti- the new federal administrative
facts. Nearby are the remains capital of Malaysia. Lying at Constructed of rose-tinted granite,
of Rajah Mahadis fort. Also the heart of the Multimedia the Putra Mosque is a landmark
located in the old quarter is Super Corridor (MSC), an area
the attractive Masjid Di Raja designated to attract informa- and the equally grand Palace
Sultan Suleiman, the former tion technology companies, of Justice, topped with a
state mosque, behind which and with huge swathes of gigantic dome. The Putra
is Istana Alam Shah, the green spaces, it is a planned Mosque with its 380-ft (116-
royal palace of the Sultan of intelligent garden city. m) high minaret looms over
Selangor. Although closed to Putrajaya is built on cleared for-
r one edge of the lake and is
the public, visitors can view est land and centered around one of the citys most impres-
the pleasing faade of the pal- a huge artificial lake. The city sive buildings, blending archi-
ace which is a blend of Islamic is designed to create a sense tectural styles from Iraq, Iran,
and modern architecture. Port of vastness and with so much and Morocco. Other sights
Klang, or North Port, lies 5 water around, great attention worth exploring include the
miles (8 km) to the west, close has been paid to building mas- Botanic Garden with its col-
to South Port, Malaysias main sive bridges. These include lection of tropical flora, and
seaport, and is the access the Putra Bridge, inspired by the Putrajaya Wetlands, which
point for Pulau Ketam. the Khaju Bridge in Iran, and were constructed to help
the 787-ft (240-m) long Seri cleanse river water. Paddle-
Gemilang Bridge. boats can be hired for trips
Pulau Ketam m Government departments on the wetlands and lake.
and ministries began the move Lying on the outskirts of
34 miles (55 km) SW of Kuala here from Kuala Lumpur in Putrajaya is its twin town,
Lumpur. * 8,000. g from Port 1999. These include the Prime Cyberjaya. Conceived as a cen-
Klang. www.pulauketam.com Ministers office, known as ter for high-tech companies, it
Perdana Putra, built in a flam- has been under construction
First inhabited by Hainanese boyant Malay-Palladian style, for over ten years now.
fishermen in the 1870s, Pulau
Ketam, or Crab Island, remains
largely populated by Chinese.
The majority of the inhabit-
ants still make their living
by fishing. Although Pulau
Ketam village is a simple set-
tlement of stilt houses built
over the water with narrow
wooden walkways in place
of roads, it contains a number
of basic amenities including
a bank and hospital. It is well
known for its superb seafood
restaurants, specializing in
crab dishes, which make it
a popular weekend dining
venue for city residents. There
are also ornate Chinese tem-
ples, such as the Nang Thiam
Keng Temple, where locals
host wedding feasts. The
many floating fish farms off-f
shore are worth visiting and
can be reached by a short
boat ride from the island jetty. Palace of Justice, Putrajaya, with its distinctive Islamic-style architecture
KUALA LUMPUR STREET FINDER
T he key map below shows the

area of Kuala Lumpur covered
n this Street Finder. Map ref-
erences given for sights, shops, and
entertainment venues in the Kuala
found on the facing page. The first
figure in the map reference indicates
which Street Finder map to turn to,
and the letters and numbers that
follow refer to the maps grid. The
Lumpur section refer to the maps on symbols used to represent sights and
the following pages. Map references useful information on the Street
are also provided for some of Kuala Finder maps are listed in the key
Lumpurs hotels and restaurants. An below. Common street names have
index of the street names and places been abbreviated Jalan to Jln. and
of interest shown on the maps can be Lorong to Lrg.
0 km 1
0 miles 1

+AMPUNG"ARU
+ P U
#HOW
HOO
+IT +AMPUNG
+ AMPUNG
MP
,ITTLE
,
,ITT #ENDANA
ND
+,##
)NDIA
NDIA
4HE'OLDEN
'OLDEN
'O
OLDEN
4RIANGLE
RIANGLE
ANG E

"
"UKIT
"INTANG 0UDU
0 U
4ASIK
4A
0ERDANA
DA #HINATOWN
H NA
HINA
A
KEY TO STREET FINDER

Major sight Hospital Railroad
Place of interest Parking Expressway
Other buildings Police station

LRT station Visitor information
Railroad station Hindu temple

# Bus station Church SCALE OF MAP PAGES
Monorail Chinese temple 0 meters 300
Post office Mosque 0 yards 300

K U A L A L U M P U R S T R E E T F I N D E R 79
Street Finder Index

A Dato Onn, Jalan 4 D1 Lapangan Terbang, Jalan5 B5 Pintasan RMM 4 2 E3
Abdul Rahman Idris, Datuk H Eusoff, Jalan 1 A1 Ledang, Jalan 3 A2 Pudu 14, Jalan 5 C3
Jalan 1 C2 Delima, Jalan 6 F3 Lembah Perdana, Jalan 4 D3 Pudu, Jalan 5 B3
Ahmad, Jalan 2 D2 Doraisamy, Jalan 1 B4 Limau Manis Dua, Lrg. 3 A5 Puncak, Jalan 5 B1
Alor, Jalan 5 C2 Dr. Latiff, Jalan 1 C2 Little India 1 B5 Putra, Jalan 1 A2
Ampang, Jalan 1 C5 Loke Yew, Jalan 5 B5
Ampang, Lebuh 4 F1 G Lumut, Jalan 1 A1 R
Ampang Toll Road 2 C5 Gading, Jalan 6 D2 Rahmat, Jalan 1A1
Aquaria KLCC 2 F5 Gajus, Jalan 5 B5 M Raja Abdullah, Jalan 1 C5
Asrama, Jalan 2 E1 Galloway, Jalan 5 B3 Mahameru, Lebuhraya 3 A3 Raja Alang, Jalan 1 B3
Gelugor, Jalan 5 C5 Maharajalela Jalela 5 A4 Raja Chulan, Jalan 4 F2
B Gereja, Jalan 4 F1 Malaysian Tourism continues 5 A2
Baba, Jalan 5 C4 Golden Triangle, The 1 C5 Information Complex 2 E5 Raja Chulan, Lorong. 5 B1
Badan Warisan 6 E1 Walter Grenier, Lorong 6 D3 Masjid Hospital, Jalan 1 C1 Raja Laut, Jalan 1 A3
Balai Polis, Jalan 4 F4 Gurney Kiri, Jalan 2 F1 Masjid India 4 F1 continues 4 E1
Bangsar, Jalan 3 C5 Gurney, Jalan 2 F2 Masjid India, Jalan 4 F1 Raja Laut, Lorong 1 B2
Barat, Jalan 6 E3 Gurney, Lorong 2 F1 Masjid Jamek 4 E2 Raja Muda Abdul
Bedara, Jalan 5 C2 Masjid Negara 4 D3 Aziz, Jalan 1 B2
Berangan, Jalan 5 C2 H Mayang, Lorong 2 F4 Raja Muda Musa, Jalan 1 C3
Beremi, Jalan 5 C2 Haji Hassan Salleh, Jln. 2 D4 Melaka, Jalan 4 F1 Raja Muda, Lorong 2 D2
Beruang, Jalan 6 E5 Haji Hussin, Jalan 1 B3 Melayu, Jalan 4 F1 Raja Uda, Jalan 2 D3
Bugis, Jalan 6 D5 Haji Taib, Jalan 1 B3 Melur, Jalan 6 E3 Ria, Jalan 4 D4
Bukit Bintang, Jalan 5 C3 Haji Yaakob, Jalan 2 F3 Menara KL 5 A1 Robertson, Jalan 5 B3
Bukit Ceylon, Jalan 5 B2 Hang Jebat, Jalan 4 F3 Munshi Abdullah, Jalan 1 B5 Royal Selangor Club 4 E2
Bukit Nanas, Jalan 4 F2 Hang Tuah, Jalan 5 B4
Bukit Travers 3 B5 Hicks, Lorong 5 B1 N S
Bulan, Jalan 5 C3 Horley, Jalan 6 D3 Nagasari, Jalan 5 C2 Sahabat, Jalan 5 B2
Bulatan Merdeka 4 F4 National Art Gallery 2 D1 San Peng, Jalan 5 C5
Bunus, Jalan 4 E1 I National History Sarawak, Jalan 5 C4
Imbi Medan 6 D3 Museum 4 E2 Seladang, Jalan 6 E5
C Imbi, Jalan 5 C3 National Museum 3 C4 Semarak, Jalan 2 F2
Carcosa Seri Negara 3 B3 Imbi, Lorong 6 E2 National Theater 1 C1 Sri Maha Mariamman
Cemur, Jalan 1 B1 Inai, Lorong 6 E2 Negeri Sembilan, Jalan 3 A4 Temple 4 F3
Cendana, Jalan 1 C4 Ipoh, Jalan 1 A2 Stadium, Jalan 5 A4
Central Market 4 E2 Ipor Kecil, Jalan 1 A2 P Stesen Sentral, Jalan 3 C5
Ceylon, Jalan 5 A2 Islamic Arts Museum 4 D4 P. Ramlee, Jalan 2 E5 Sulaiman, Jalan 4 E4
Chagar, Jalan 1 A3 Istana, Jalan 4 F5 continues 5 B1 Sultan, Jalan 4 F3
Changkat Bukit Padang Belia, Jalan 4 D5 Sultan Abdul Samad
Bintang 5 B2 J Padang Negeri Building 4 E2
Changkat Damansara 3 B5 Jalan Petaling Market 4 F3 Sembilan 3 A5 Sultan
Changkat Persekutuan 3 B5 Jarrett, Jalan 6 F4 Padang, Jalan 6 D2 Hishamuddin, Jalan 4 E4
Changkat Raja Jati, Jalan 6 E2 Pahang, Jalan 1 B1 Sultan Ismail, Jalan 1 A4
Chulan 5 B1 Johor, Jalan 3 A5 Pangkor, Jalan 1 A1 continues 5 C1
Changkat Thambi Johor Selatan, Jalan 3 A5 Parlimen, Jalan 3 B2 Sultan Salahuddin, Jln. 3 B1
Dollah, Jalan 6 D4 Pasar Besar, Lebuh 4 E2 Suria KLCC and KLCC
Chan See Shu Yuen K Pasar, Jalan 6 D5 Gardens 2 F5
Temple 4 F4 Kampung Attap, Jalan 4 E5 Pekeliling Lama, Jalan 1 B1 Syed Putra, Jalan 4 E5
Chan Wing, Jalan 6 D3 Kampung Baru and Pasar Pelanduk, Jalan 6 E4 Sze Ya Temple 4 F3
Cheng Lock, Jalan 4 F3 Minggu Market 2 D4 Perak, Jalan 5 C1
Cheong Yoke Kampung Pandan, Jln. 6 F4 Perak, Lorong 2 D5 T
Choy, Jalan 6 F5 Kanchil, Jalan 6 D5 Perdana, Jalan 3 C3 Tangling, Jalan 3 C2
Cheong Yoke Kebun Bunga, Jalan 3 B3 Perkarangan Tun Tembusu, Jalan 3 C3
Choy, Lorong 6 F5 Kemuning, Jalan 6 E2 Ismail 3 C1 Temerloh, Jalan 2 D1
Chinatown 4 F3 Khoo Teik Ee, Jalan 6 D3 Persekutuan, Jalan 3 B4 Tengah, Jalan 5 C1
Choo Cheng Khay, Kia Peng, Jalan. 6 D1 Persiaran Hampshire 2 F4 Tengkat Tong Shin 5 B2
Jalan 5 A5 Kijang, Jalan 6 D4 Persiaran KLCC 2 F5 Tuanku Abdul
Chow Kit Market 1 B4 Kinabalu, Jalan 4 E2 Persiaran Lidcol 2 F4 Rahman, Jalan 1 B3
Chow Kit, Jalan 1 B2 Kompleks Budaya Kraf 6 E1 Persiaran Mahameru 3 A3 continues 4 E1
Coales, Jalan 6 F5 Kuala Lumpur Railway Persiaran Maybank 5 A2 Tun Perak, Jalan 4 E1
Cochrane, Jalan 6 F5 Station 4 E4 Persiaran Raja Chulan 5 A2 Tun Razak, Jalan 1 A1
Cochrane, Lorong 6 F5 Kuching, Jalan 1 A4 Persiaran Stonor 6 E1 Tun Sambanthan,
Conlay, Jalan 6 E1 continues 4 E1 Persiaran Sultan Jalan 4 D5
Salahuddin 3 B1
D L Petaling, Jalan 4 F3 Y
Damansara, Jalan 3 A3 Lake Gardens 3 B3 Petronas Towers 2 E4 Yap Kwan Seng, Jalan 2 E4
Dang Wangi, Jalan 1 B5 Landak, Jalan 6 D5 Pinang, Jalan 2 E5 Yew, Jalan 6 E5
" , # $

5JUUJXBOHTB ;"
3" K .ATIONAL4H
IONAL4HEATEER
+(#1-";"
/
56
+-/
+-
,
(
/
+"
"
1& " #* -"

- " / 5J5JUJXBOHTB

.
1&,&-*-*/( BOHTB
B ,&- ". %0 /
"/
1"
*/("/ - 3
1-";"
+"
3
#
# "5"
1")
1FLFMJMJOH
1 H
63
#
#VT4UBUJPO
PO
P K 6 5 " K
" /
. "
$&.
6 -
# "5 +"
4 & 5 *"- " /
) 0
+ "
+" -"/ +" 4 1
8"/ -" * 5
/ " -
5"
"/
+"- * 1*/
/
"/ (
+"-"
1"/
(,0 (OSPITAL
3
K +UALA,UMPURR
+"-
+"
+-
/
-" D (OSPITAL
OSP
3ENTOSA
ENT + " - " /
%
3" +" / . " 4 + * % ) 0 4 1 * 5 " -

) -" -6
D K K

. /
" %" .
/
5 D 56 6
5*&'
5
+-
, -EDICAL
+ )
" 8 &6
40
2ESEARCH5N
#ANCER5
NIT
#ANCER5+-
# 5+-
-
%3 -"
+" - -- K
-"
/ " D

/ 3TADIUM
"
* 1 *
*ALAN2AJA
-UDA
+"-"/
%
0UTRA
A + 0

"-
#OURT
URT )
/
"/
+" - "

- 3")."/
.6 % " " # % 6 - " ; * ;

*103 ,&$
K +"
3"
+ "- " / " #%6- 3"). " / *%3*4

&EDERAL
D
-03 3"+"
#INEMA $IPX
PX
X
,JU +" -"/
*-
- "/ -"65 +,
-03
+" 165 )NTERNATIONA

)NTER AL
- " 6 5
3"

5 "
+-/$)08
+"-"
) 6 4 4 * /
#004".:
:
+"-"/ 3"+" "#%6--")

,*5,*3*
$)08 /
3
+-

+"-"/ 56"/,6 "#%6
185
185$
/)
4HE-
E-ALL
E-
,*5
+ ) 6 4 4 * /
-0 3 $ ) 0 8
5)".#
")."/
,*5
--0
03 )+ 5"*# K
+"-"/ %"6%
) " + *
-0 3 0
K

/( 5

*0/(
#
3 " + "
3 " + "
+ " - " / # 0 5
BL
/".

+-/ )+ 5"*#
-0 3 5
+- / ) + 5"*
-0 3 0 / ( 5 " 3
*0/(
-0 3 3 " + " # 0
NC
/".
/".

+ " - " /
/".
(P
-03 5 /

0/(
+" - "
5*0/
/ )"
+* 5" * #
*# %6 "

/( 5*
-0 3 0 /(
" /
5*0/( /" . 3 " + " " - " / (

+ " - " / + " -" /
+-/ )+ 5"
-0 3 0
/
+"-"
+ " -
-
3
5
/
+"-
"/
43* + "- " /
+" "." %"50 "# % 6 - 3 " ; ",
K -"
3 , +"-"
/
/
/
"
6 -5"
$) 1
--
"(
#&
"/
"3
+"
+-/ 4
).
-0 3 /
/
-" ".
"
-3
/ +"-
/
+-/ "/
-"
%6
46 +" %
4 4
3"+
""
+"
"#
-" -*

4VMUBO -5 /
6 -"*.
"/ -0 3
"/ K
5
*TNBJM 3" 3"+

+" ".
)
#(/7+)4
7 +)4
-0 3
-" +-/ )"% "

+"-
*4 65 3 *
--"
. +"-
."
)"%
"* ,)" "/ *
- , 0 : 5 *#
"/
#HOW+IT
#HOW .FEBO "/
%6
-ARKET 5VBOLV
6 5
+-/
:"
-0 3
,6
.&%
"/ 5 ,)"
"#
,0
6" /,6 5*#

3HERATON
HER
$)
- "
1 )MP
)MPERIAL

%03"*4".:
4)" "
+"
/ 5
,

*/(
+"-
- :
"/ K
%"
.&
3 " + "
"
%" +"-"/
.&
/ 5 "
6" $&/%"/
$ /"
/ 3
/,
6
+"- "/ 4)",
4
4&. "3" /( K +"-" / :"1 " )
/
+"-"
/DEON
/
*/(
-"
$ENMARK
MARK
-"
4HEATER
6/5
%MBASSY
+"
+"- " /
+"
+ " - " /
0ERTAMA
%"/
,&.
#OMPLEX
PLEX ( 8"
-0 3
/(
+""-/
E /( *
%BOH
BOH
BOH
1"
/
+"-"/ .6/4
8BOHJ
K .
+-
K
56"/
"
)"/
/
+ - / * 4 '"

-"
#",
,6 "
#B
BOEB
B BSBZ
ZB
,)44,%
,6$)
(0.
+"
)* "#%6--")
-")
).$)!
BO
3"
4(
4(%'/,$%.
( %'/,$%
%
%6-
,M
#BOL/FHBSB
/FH
/FFHB
FH
/(
4UBUJPO
UBUUJP
UJP
PO
"#
-0 3 0
).
42
42)!.',%
*/(
d 4
+"
+ - / #6 /6
"/
"
3
" # +-
/

$
% &.
0UTERI
0) & '
5
4ITIWANGSA 3-
#VO
&3 3CHOOL .&
/ -0 5&
-" "/
.ATIONAL!RT
ONA
+" ) +"
-
05,!0/,
VT
'ALLERY
ERY
K +" +"-"/ "43"."
-"
/
'-
&5
$)
&3 *ALAN&LETCHER4AMIL
IL
0RIMARY3CHOOL
Y
+-/
(

6
,*3 3/&:
*
-ATERNITY
"
+ " -"/
(OSPITAL -0
"
6%
" 30

D /(
=
(6
.
.ATIONAL 3/
D +"
&:
/
.ATIONAL(EART
. ,IBRARY 4 " -0 3
-"
+"
)NSTITUTE / " 0
-" ) 8/ (
+"
(
*/(
3"
*/
&
5
+"
8
5 (
-0
5& /
-"
6
)
* 30
"
/(
- " -0
/
3 -"
4"
*
30
" 5&
/
;"
-"
5
-0
+"
-0
,
, &
",
#VOVT
"3

.
+"-"/ 3"+" .6%" "#%6- ";*;
4&
+ " -"/ )+ ) "4)* .
+ -/ " #% . " / " /
-0
+-
/
+"
3"
/
-0 6 %
30
-"
-"
+"-"/ ")."%
+"
(
30 "
/( 3" + " 6
/
+"
+"-"/ )"+* :" ) :" 4 ) & * , ) " ) . " %
/(
63
%
"
"
/&
%
56
:
+"-
,
+"-"/ )".;") + "

+"-"/ )".;")
3"
"
%"
#
/ "/
%
+"
-"
6
-"
+"
-
16"
.
/
"
)+
&%
/
-*
)
+"-"/ 3"+" 6%" 4: -&
:
,
* 4"-
"
+"
/
."). 6% %
-" "%
"
+" ")
-033"
5
",0
/
. -" 3"
+!-05.'"!25
' 25 +" +*
4*
#
)"
-
+ " - " / 3 " + " . " ) . 6 % - "/

+"
"
,
.
64

"#
0
"5
-0 " .
+" &/(
6%
8
%6
.
/( -" $)
/%
3
4&
-
"
/
3 6 4 "
3"+" "-"/( %
-"
/
.
.6
-*& &&
"+
"/
"
4*/
+"
"-
-0 3 . 6 4 "
"
8
3" + "4 4
"
:"
*,
1,
"/ /5 . /(
+"- 1* 3. )
3"
-" 1"
-0
:"
- 6
3
4" %6
3
"#
"
". /(
(
+"
)
3"
6
"5
0/
1"
-0 3 0 / ( , "
56 #
/(
.
+"

,
.6
%"6%
".
%" *
3
"
/(
4&
-0
.
/ (
5*
"
-" "5
%"
6
/ 3
%
+"
%
3"+" 46 #& (,
"/
6
+AMPUNG"ARUAND
G RUA
"
:" */
.
/
.
0ASAR-INGGU-ARKET
-AR -" 35
3" ,8
6
#&
1& -*
4"
+" )
#6
34 %$
" 3RI,ANKA
1

,BNQVOH#BSV
QVOH V -& ":
:"
*" 0-
%MBASSY
)3
3"
)
"/
)+ ) " 4 4 " / 4 " - - & #6 /
/
3" &
- & !USTRALIA
/
+"
- K *" *3
%MBASSY " 34 4)
1& .1
-
)"
+"
+"-"/ . " :"

/
(
03

-
. ":" / (

,-$$
+!-05.
5.'
#%.$!.!
.!
+-/
(
/ -ALAYSIAN K
1"
-6.
4OURISM 0ETRONAS
0ETRONAS
AS
". )NFORMATION
ATION
#" ,
0AKISTAN 4OWER
4OWER
#OMP
MPLEX
P
%MBASSY /
6%"
-"
2ENAISSANCE
CE +" 3URIA+,##
&
K 8
+"
-&
+" &8
:
!SY 3YAKIRIN
SY
-" 4
-"
-OSQUE
/ 8
- &
" ,AKE'ARDENS
,AKE'ARDENSS
" &
/
3
8
-ANDARIN
-
1 /
/RIENTAL $IJMESFOT
46
1PPM
/ ,-$$
5 .EW:ELAND
W:E ND
"
-
" %MBASSY
BASSY
SSY - 1 6 # - * $ 1" 3 ,
+"
#VL
LJUU #ROWN
O
/
+"
-0
/BOB
BT 2EGENCY
G
-"
*4. 3

1&
"
/
3
* " !QUARIA+,#
##
1
,
*/
+,##
-
"
/
1&34*"3"/ ,-$$
(
% &
K '
* 4 ."*-
+ - / 46-5"/ 4"-") 6 % % * /
" # $
1&3, " 3 "

1&

4* 3
"
3"
6/
/ 56/,6
/(
/ 4
"/ 5
6 - "5
-!(!-%25
25
"/
4"
-"
)6
-"
%%
*/
+"
/4
6
-"
5"
-
/
+"
4"
-
"/
+"-
"
)6
0ARLIAMENT
%%
(OUSE K /
*
!SEAN
.ATIONAL
N 3CULPTURE
+"
-ONUMENT
M 'ARDEN
-" /
+"
-&
-" "
-"/ 5 / (- * / (
%
"
/
(
/ 1
"3-*.&/
+"
*"
6
-
6
&3
/PEN!IR
.
4HEATER
"
.
3
" K
&
)
%
"
3 0/( ,05"
/
$&
. /
:"
-"
-03
3"
+"
+"
1&34*"3"/ "
6)
. /
" ,
&# + " - "/
-&#
6/
)
#6
"
#ARCOSA3ERI /
.
(
.EGARA
& 36
+"-"/
"
+"-" /

5&
/RCHID
-",&("3%&/4
.
% " ." 'ARDEN

#6
+"-" /
4"
/
1&
46
3"
3%
&%$%2!, 1
4!3 +
4!3)+
"/"
3
&
(),, 0%2
0%2$!.!
0 2 $!.
!.
4* " 3
+" "IR
IRD
" -EMORIAL
- 4UN2AZAK 0ARK
+"-"/ 4&- "
/
"/
/
+"
. "
(0
3
% 5BTJL
-"/
" / 5" / 1 FSEBOB

,&- "
)
-"/
"
+" .
+" & 36
,&#
-"
.
/
+"-"/ ,&
"
-
6/ #
,&
%")
"
/
/
4"
5"
6/("
/

3
"
+"
-"
/
1&
34
&,
+"-"/
65
6"
/
+"
"/ .ATIONAL
-"
56 -USEUM
"
6 "
"3
/
4
3 4 &,
"/
"
%" .
/&
"5
/
+" - "
(&
"/ (,
+0
1&
3*
)03
5
3* " $
(& /
,
/& "
(
4&
1 .#*-
/
"
4&
.#
$
*-"
3"
"
4
34
/
/
$
,E-ERIDIEN
ERI EN
"
"
/
(
(ILTON +UALA,UMPUR
ALA MPU
7&
" ( .
6 +" , "5 %" +UALA
( %
/
/ *4 -0 -" ,UMPUR -
"
3"
"
0 "5 3 /
3 "/ 0 4& /5
4&
+ - / +0 ) 03 4 & -
-0 . /
53
-"
&/
"/ ( / &4
6 & - "5 5 ( 45
" "/ 4 3 0
3 "/ 4UFTFO
-*
. #* - #
6 " -
&. 7 4FOUSBM
/
+"
4 , &
3* *5 3

d
-"
4
(& 5
3
+-/ /&
"
7&34 4FOUSB
OUSBM
OUSB
BM
+"
" # $
#OLIS M#AF
#OLISEUM#AF
% & '
+-

*4." /
/
50 "/
(OTEL
6
*-
/
0/
/(
+-/ 5
%" +"-
46
+ " -" / # 6 / 6 4
"/
BL
-5
.
"/
$)*
(PNC
"/
")
,
"
#"
%*
-3
).
4"
*/
%6
.
/ ,6
-"
"#
0
3"
*%
H
)6
BO
6
%XPERIMENTAL
+"
4+
,M
/,
%%
4HEATER
3&
1 5
"
"
6"
(
6
.
/ *

+"-"
/
*/
4.
5
(&
"*-
/
30
,6
3
-"
-0
-0
+"
"/
/(
+"
8 -ASJID
-ASJ
-AS
-"
)N
)NDIA
".1"
4
56
"
/
6, * 5 /"/
+"
. & - ": 6
3T*OHNS
"
&/ 33T-ARYS
RYS
YS
/
#ATHEDRAL
-"
-*.
-&#6)
#
#ATHEDRALALL
"
-"
+"-
,
3
"

1"
&-
+"
#"-6
3UPREME
/ #
+"-
.
"/ #OURT
56
3"+
/
"
-"
-"
2OYAL
+"
+"
-"65
3ELANGOR (
1&
,*/"
#LUB / -
-UZIUM
&
E 3ULTAN!BDUL
LTAN !B "
-&
4ELEK
LEKOM
OM
(
3AMAD"UILDING
MAD "U 1
3"
$ATARAM
&/
.
4

"
3"+"
-ERDEKA
/5
*6
,
+"
+
)NDEPENDEN
ENCE
#&
-ASJID
-ASJI .BTKJE
JE
,
8
3"
)
3QUARE +BNF
NFL
-&
*AME
AMEK
/
+"
-"
)
56
/ /
"/
(
+"
+"-"/
+"
-" " "
/
#
/ & - -
/ 3"
"-
"
#6 -
/
+" )6
)
,*5 "
-"
+
."/ +"

/
1-";"
1" 4 " /
$
+"
-"
-"
1
1653"
3
.& %"
/
+"
-&#6 5
) 1" 6
+"-"/
/
+"-"
4"3
#&4" 5"
3
.ATIONAL /
"/
(
(ISTORY 4*
4EXTILE
4EX &8 1VEVSBZBZB
,656
-U
-USEUM #ENTRAL
AL -0
#6,
-U M
-USEUM -ARKET
ET % 6 30 4 * #VT4UBU
4UBUJP
UJPO
1 6 /(
#
&
/
( 16
*5
-0 3 0 /
+"-"/ ."),".") 1&34
"UTTERFLY
RFLY $AYABUMI
$A %6
0ARK #O
#OMPLEX
".
3ZE9A4EMPLE
4EM $ ,
/ ( -0
"/

$)&
+"
"/
*/
-"
(OSPITAL
( OS
4ANG D -
/
+"
+" - "/ 46 -5" /

4ANGLIN
6%%
5
+ " - " / ) "/( , " 45 63 *

6
+"
(
+"
+"-"/ )"/( -&,*3

6
-"
-
"
$&
/
".
/
+"-"/
/
-
%&
$& 'ENE
NERAL
&
3" 4 "3
/%
.#
0OST/FF
/FFICE
/FF
5" / ) * 4 )
3RI-AHA
A
&3

/5)"/
"4 1 1BTBS
1 -ARIAMMAN4EMPLE
MA 4EM
")
*
"3
* 4
4FOJ
#().!4/7.
# . 4/
/7 .
6
&&
)+ 4 -
1&3
*ALAN0ETALING
*A LING
NG
5 6
0)
5
/ ( +& # "5
+" - " / -ARKET
RKET )"
+"-"/ 4 .
4 6 - 5" /
%"
+" - " /
".#"
+ " - " /
+-/1"/((6/(
#
56/
46-
/"
1&5"-
,MBOH#VT
4UBUJPO
U
+"-"/
-ASJID.EGARA
8
6/ 4
"/
*/(
+"-"
)SLAMIC!RTS 1 #"-"/
4RAFFIC
IC 10-*4 *
-USEUM
-
0OLICE(1
E(
+"
+- / 5
+" #HAN3EE
N3
1 & 3 % "/ " -" "
0OLICE
CE / / 1&3%"/ 3HU9UEN
9U
-USEUMM " 4EMPL
4EMPLE
+-/
-
+"
,*/"
#"-6
*/
.ATIONAL #6- "5" /

%%
0LANETARIUM
0L )SLAMIC
#ENTERR
+-/

.6
. & 3%&,"
d +U
UALA,UMPUR
U
UAALA,UMPPUR
UR
3*
2A WAYY3TA
2AILWAY3TATIO
ATION
"
4)"
Q
/
1
5"
4OURISTT
%"."
)*
"
"5
$EVELOPME
MENT .
/4
"*
%
+" 6#
Q
"/
#ENTER
-
"3
5
-" "
+"-"/ 46 -
(
*&
5
/
46-
'
+
"
16
3 0" - "
-
+-/
&
5" /
.
/
4"3"
"

,
"
"/
+" "/
%".
-
.
/
(OLY2OSARY
Y
-" ")
"
"
-
/
"
#HURCH
+"
3
+"
& % 1 65
-"
"/ / % +"
-"
'*&-%
/
%XHIBITION
ON
N
N 5) " ." )0
4&
/4"
/
#ONVENTIO
TION
TIO
-
3"
#"
#&-
#ENT
ENT
NTERR
3

0
/:
.
"/ 4:
0
(
-"/
+ "-
4"
40
4
"/
$
(ISTORIC3OCIETY
(
/
0
OF-ALAYSIA
+"
"
5
/
-
*4 +"
5
*"
-0
56
&-
30
5"
#
+"-
(
/(
/
/"
"
#& %
-"
-'*&-
%
1"
% & '
+"

/
+-

" ( # " $
+
-"
&&
- 0 3 0/
1
3" / +"
+"
.-
. 4 6- -"
/
1&
-ENARA
N -&
5"
-"
3"
4 & ,
" +UALA,UM
A ,UMPUR
MPUR /
3"
/
" 16
/
/ /
*5 $
"
,
3BKB
1
* 4.
6
# $IVMBO
,
/
-03
+ " - " / 5&
"/
-"

"*-
+" / ("
0 / ( 3 " +"
#6,*5/"/"4
/"/"4
)
+"-
'03&453&4&37&
53&4&37&
-0
30/( )*$
+"
-"
+"-"/ 3"
$)6
/ #6,* 5
+ " $)
6-
-"
+"
"/
,4
/
-"/
$)
-"
/ 6 "/
"/
$) (,
/ 4 6 -5" /

3*
"4 "5 /
0LAZA2AJA
2AJA
2AJ +"-"
/ # -0
4"
3" :
#HULANN + " 3T!NDREWS 6,
*5 $
&
#HURCH-ENARA
URC
3"
("
$& ( 0ANOSA
+"
+"-"
/ , #HURCH
BUKIT
UKIT : / OS
OSA
"/
-0 0
$)
3"
3
/"
/
BINTANG
T -0
#
6-
":
%"
-0 /
"/
.
&:
#&
1
/
*
&
3" $ &.
-"
3
&3
/
*"
4*
*4."*
4 #
-"
1& 3 + " - " / $
"
3 +"
+"
/
)"
+"
"
+"
-"
-"
/ /(
/
3"
+"
," #&
- "
5 # 3"/("/
-ENARA-AYBANK
-E
+"
/
.U
.UMISMATIC-USEUM $ 4" 6 ,*
)6 5 #
-
-"/
)
+"- */ */
"/
"
16% D 4) 5
#
6 - "
"
". ( /
5
" /
5
0 (
5 (
1VEV3BZB
1VEV3BZ D ,
" 3 /
1 #VT4UBUJPO
&
/
(
"
-0 5"
# 5 /
+"- #*
/
"
"/ -
+"
* 5 "INTANG0LA
+" "UKI
"UKKI
KIT
-"

1MB[B 0LAZA 16 / #ATHAYY , NG0
0LA
0LAZA
/
3BLZBU 2AKVAT %6 50 ##INEMA

MA
#6
30#&3540
/
(
+"
4) /
+"
-"/
AZA
-"
*/
-"
-AGNUM
-AG
/
+" 3UN#OMPLEX
#6
0LAZA
8&4-&

+"-"/
-"
+"
3T!NTHONYS $)-"/
/
+"
#HURCH &8 4

":
, */ *NCJ
-"
&&
+"
8
&& 4*/
#*
:
&
16
0
,&
-"
$) -"/
*.
%
--
97#! E /
/

"
+"
-"
(
+"
16
-" +"
/
/ +, 0O
+,0O
+,0OLICE
-"
%6
)" (EAD
EADQUARTERS
DQUA
ARTERRS
.
+"
/(
%*6
+&
#"
5
4 5"
)B
)BOH5V
5VBI
BI
$5
3TADIUM
ADI
+" .EG
.EGARA
-"
+"-"
/
45
"%
")
*6 -0
/ #
. 30
56

)BO
)BOH5VBI
/
(

"# "
+"
/(
-0
-"
6
3
+"-"/ 4"3
3TADIUM / 0
"
)"
,& /
#
-ERDEKA /" (
3
+-
5*
&
/( .
4& /
/
.
" &3
/
"
" -" #3
&3

.
3
-"
& 3-0 / 5" 6

/ /&
-0
5*
+" " 30 *
(
"8",
5*
+"
/ /
/
-" 5* ( (
0
"
-0
%
" .BIBSBKBMFMB /
3
6
-0
3
+
-" +"

&IR
IRE3TATION "
.
#LINIC D
,
&3
/ &
/ -"
"
." " 5* 4"

/
/
/ 56
+"
)"3 (
"
-"
/
"+"
5"
-" -&- +"
" -"
5&3# "/ (
,"
+"-" /
.&.
+"-" -".
/ $
) ."6
00
/ . &3-*
$) +"-" 1VEV
1&
&/
/
(
,)
":
+"
+"
-"
"/
-"
"
/(
/
53
&
-0
-6
" 1" /
16
+"-
# "/
(0
-& ' * & -%
)0
0 ,
&- ' * $ &
4&
"
/(
&
'
*4.
+"-"/ 4"/ 1&/(

,0
,
+-/ -
8
KA PU
K
KAMPUNG
:
&
/
+" "
(
8
-"
ATTAP
AP "
- +6
" 4
# $
+"
/
450/03
% "ELGIUM
%MBASSY
& 6IETNA
E AM
%MBAS
M SSY '
3 *APAN
/( 4 5 0/ 0
+"-"/ ,*" 1&
1& 34* " 3 " /
+-/ 56/
%MBASSY
/
-"
+"
0HILIPPINE
0
/( %MBASSY 0/
& "5
"/
+"-
1&
3
/(
/0
+"
+"
-"
1&
-"

"
50
" +"
/
,*
$" *
/ ( , "5 , -"
1&3"
/ 4
3";",
/
,*
/
"
-"
,
+"-"
1&
+"
/(
"ADAN7ARISAN
+"- +"-" /
"/ $0/-
":
+OMPLEKS
KS
"+
3
"UDAYA+RAF
+R
"
$)
6-
#ENTRAL0LAZA K "/
/ (
#*/5"
#6,*5 +"
/ -"
/(
+"
-" / 5"
-"
#6 / +UWAIT
+" , *5 #*
/
+,0LAZA
,0L -0 %MBASSY
(
30
"
/(
*
%
1 5 *. )NDONESIA
)ND
*/
+" #*
%
%MBASSY
(
,OT / -0
30
(
3HOPPING "
#*
(3&/ - /(
6/
&3 *&3 */
#
#OMPLEX
-5 3 +" "-
" ( *& +"
.1
*.
8 "
/ / - "/ K
/ % 3& ,&
" ( .6
,"
- " 1 3
#VLJU OH + "
#JOUBOH
#JOUBO -"
/
-5
&
/
/*
/(
"
"
/
+" 8
- 03 &
-
(
/
-"
- "
3 /*
+"
+" + "
0 &
+"
. "
- "
+ " - " / # " 3 "5
/ 3
/
3UNGAI
3U
UNGAI
(
+" 6 5
/"
7ANG0L
7ANG0LAZA
7AN
7A #*
- *
-" " 3
*. "
16
% &
/
/ +"-" /
,)
" + "
&% - "
00 5 0 * , & & &
/
+ " - " /
.
. &
- "
- "
5 *
*/
+ "

.
+"
/
#&
. & - 6 3
/
+ " -"
"
8
3"
+"-"/ )03-&: "/
+"
-"
- /4
+" / &-
" 5" "5
"/
&-
#
4
/ /
-" 5
"
+" "
+"-"/ $)"/ 8*/( -
&
5" /
4
+"-"/
/
"
03 4 & - "
-
+"
+"-"/ $"/(," -
5
"3"
*4
5"
%"7
PUDU -0 3 0 / ( % " 7 * 4
65
.#

+"-"/ # +" - " / % " 7 *
0/(
#3 4

*
6/ +"
-0 3
&* -"/
%
65 0
,
"3
/
( - - " ) +"-"
%6
#" "
" /,
1"/ ".16/
#"
*+
/
, %"/
"
#"
3" / 1
&
- (
5 " "/
"/ (
- +"-
+"
&*
" +"-
+
0UDU - "/
/
"
6
0LAZA / +"3
3
3&5
*4
#
0:
5
+"-"/ 4&-"
/&
/
3
/(
( 6
-"
6
$)
4"
8
3"
3"
/", 0/(
:64 %"
#
+"
6'
#&
/
$)
)0
&
,&
,
16 -"
+"
&.
-0 3
+
"
$0
:
"
*- -
:0
+"
.
+"-
;
"
%
-
$) "/
"
/
"
6 / /"
-"
3
/
(
/
" "/ # ,)
,
, +"- */( 0%
0/
&
(
+"
/
-"
4" / 1) 3 " :
-"
;"
0/
-" :" 6 646

6
-0 3
3 " '
/
"
8 +" /
%"
)&
+"-"
3"
(
/
+"
" / $
, 3 -ASJID
-
-"
:0,
( $
:6
,
3HAH!LAM
AM & $)
4" 0
+"
/
+"-"/ 1"4"
3 :

0/
-" 8
/
+"
-0 3
56
+"-
+"
&/( -" /
(
1 " "/
(0/
-
$0
"4
/ #"36
+ " - " / 1"4 " 3 $)3
+"
1"
/
)0-
4" "/
-"
3 &
$0/ / .$
#" +"-
"/
/*$
5& .
$0"
&$)
36
+"
-&4
"/
"
% & '
+"-
+"-

NORTHWEST PENINSULA
T
he northwestern states of Malaysia are among the most
geographically diverse and historically significant in the
country. The landscape encompasses everything from coastal
plains and lushly forested mountains to jutting limestone cliffs and
pristine islands. A long legacy of immigrants and rulers, attracted by
the regions strategic geographical position and its natural wealth, has
bequeathed a fascinating mix of cultures.
Archaeological remains found huge influx of Chinese immigrants.

at the coastal site of Lembah As a result of these varied early
Bujang provide evidence of a influences and economic
Hindu-Buddhist kingdom that developments, the Northwest
dates back to the 4th century AD. Peninsula is more cosmopolitan
In the 7th and 8th centuries, the and less culturally con-
region was ruled by the Srivijaya servative than other parts of
empire and later by Siam (now Malaysia. It is also one of the
Thailand), while the 15th century most developed and populous
saw the rise of the Sultanate of regions in the country, comprising
Malacca. With the beginning of the not only ethnic Malays, Chinese, and
17th century, a power struggle Indians, but also indigenous groups
ensued between colonial powers in such as the Orang Asli and the Orang
the area until the British finally Syam in the interior jungles and far
gained control. north. The old royal capital of Kuala
By the mid-19th century, the Kangsar and the vibrant, historic, and
growing importance of tin mining in culturally diverse city of Georgetown
the states of Perak and Selangor in Penang are on the itinerary of
brought with it far-reaching most visitors to the Northwest
economic, political, and social reper- Peninsula. More laid-back tourists
cussions. It fueled Malaysias head for the regions pristine beaches
tremendous economic rise in the or the soothing environs of its tea
20th century and also attracted a plantations and cool hill stations.
The palm-fringed white sands of Pantai Cenang Beach, Langkawi
Old rickshaws on display at the beautifully restored Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion in Georgetown, Penang
a
Exploring the Nor
Few regions in the country offer
attractions found in the Northwe 16-"6
6 6
$IB
$IBOH
IBOHMVO
BOH VO
interiors feature cool hill stations "/
/(,"
,"8 MJ
brated Cameron Highlands, lime C
J
with cave temples, including the "-"
"-
-"
-"
Chinese dominated tin-rush tow "))
most popular destinations are al JB
Penang, which is an ideal base f 03
fascinating destination in itself, a
Pangkor. The archaeologically im
Kedah which, together with Perl
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Towns and Cities A /(
Alor Star j C
Batu Maung f F
Georgetown pp100105 r G
PX
PX
Ipoh 7 K #VUUFSX
VUUFSSX
VUUFSX
Kuala Kangsar e M
Kuala Kedah k P
Kuala Selangor 4
H
Taiping q
K
Places of Worship L
Batu Caves 1
Is
Dhammikarama Temple t
B
Kek Lok Si Temple i
P
Snake Temple d
P
Wat Chayamangkalaram y
T
Gardens and Themed
Attractions
Genting Highlands 3
Penang Botanic Gardens u "56
33
3*/()*
3*/()*
Museums and Galleries 6 G 5P
")"/( 8
Orang Asli Museum 2 8
( /*$ $)
$ )
Universiti Sains Malaysia %& 4 P
Museum and Art Gallery s %
&/ ()
) -- F K5&.1
5&
,
NG 4* @ (&0
OH
OK OBOH#SJE
HF
# L1VMBV
V
BO
FO
0ULAU
*EREJA
N
#BZBO-FQBT
QB
QBT
BT

#
."
."6/( =
Palm-fringed Pelangi Beach,

Pulau Langkawi

T H W E S T P E N I N S U L A 89
,
hway
railway
h of the
ption;
con-
nger
rries
Perlis.
, QVO
QBO
%$ ! (
,F M
,F
4 K4EMEN R
BUV
V
.FMJOUBOH
M BOHOH

,
#BOEJOH
#BOEJ
VM N
(FSVT
FSVT
0%2!+
44VOH Q

6 SB
*1*/(
(

7"
UB est
T 5B
A
$". 30/
)*()
Ja
BN
NQVOH$JO
O

8"
3" &34
:

BS 5F
,
4JN
3%,!. FOU
BO
O
OH
H
,
3
"/("4-
"
I
.
Department, the museum

presents the history of the
18 distinct groups within the
Orang Asli community along
with their geographical distri-
bution, musical instruments,
ornaments, medicines, models
of their dwellings, and a col-
lection of traditional hunting
weapons, such as blowpipes
and poison spoons. Among
the most impressive of these
is the display of traditional
handicrafts, which includes
wooden head carv r ings with
fierce facial expressions.
Vibrant paintings of Hindu deities on the walls at one of the Batu Caves Details of daily life, including
wedding rites and religious
Batu Caves 1 is richly painted with scenes practices, are also described.
from the Hindu scriptures. In
8 miles (13 km) N of Kuala Lumpur a chamber behind the central
on Middle Ring Road 2. @ # 8am shrine is the statue of another Genting
8pm daily. 0 = _ Thaipusam deity, Lord Rama. Highlands 3
Festival (Jan/Feb). There are a number of
other caves, including a small 31 miles (50 km) NE of Kuala
Set high in a range of rugged one at the cliffs base con- Lumpur. @ from Kuala Lumpur,
limestone cliffs, the Batu taining elaborately painted then cable car (optional). 0
Caves are a vast cavern com- sculptures of Hindu gods. = www.genting.com.my.
plex that has become one of Cable Cars run every 20 min;
the most popular attractions after midnight every hour.
near the capital. Long known Orang Asli
to the indigenous Orang Asli Museum 2 Unlike most conventional
people, the caves only gained hill-station retreats, the 6,562-ft
worlwide popularity when Jalan Pahang, Gombak, 18 miles (2,000-m) high Genting
American naturalist William (30 km) N of Kuala Lumpur. Tell (03) Highlands, located in the
Hornaday came upon them in 6189-2113. @ # 9am5pm Titiwangsa Mountain Range,
1878. Deeply impressed by SatThu. - = is an extensive entertainment
the extent and beauty of the and gambling complex which
largest cave, he compared it Though visited by few features Malaysias biggest
to a grand cathedral. In the people, the Orang Asli theme park as well as its only
1890s, it was converted into a Museum provides a superb casino. The glitzy 24-hour
shrine dedicated to the Hindu introduction to the customs, Casino de Genting, one of the
deity Lord Murugan, and soon traditions, and material cul- largest in the world, contains
became the most important ture of Malaysias almost endless rows of Chinese and
pilgrimage site for Malaysias 100,000 Orang Asli people, Western games tables, a com-
Hindus. During the annual the earliest known indigenous puterized racetrack, and slot
Thaipusam festival, held in inhabitants of the peninsula. machines, while the Genting
late January or early February, Run by the Orang Asli Affairs Theme Park offers more than
a spectacular scene unfolds
here, when an estimated
one million pilgrims visit
the caves (see p29).
9
Dominating the entrance to
the caves is a 141-ft (43-m)
tall golden statue of Lord
Murugan. From here a steep
flight of 272 steps leads up to
the main cave. Also known as
Temple or Cathedral Cave, it
is 328 ft (100 m) high and is
partially lit by shafts of light
that stream through gaps in
the roof. The cave walls are
lined with numerous statues
of Lord Murugan, along with
those of other Hindu gods,
including Shiva, Ganesh, and
Durga. The dome of the cave The graceful entrance to the Orang Asli Museum
N O R T H W E S T P E N I N S U L A 91
1890s, but then mysteriously

disappeared around 1910.
Shortly after, Frasers Hill was
developed as a refreshing
retreat for the British expat-
riate community.
A picturesque journey
leads to Frasers Hill, passing
through giant bamboo groves
and tree ferns, and climbing
steeply through the Gap, a
mountain pass between Kubu
Bharu and Raub.
Of all the hill stations set
in the Titiwangsa mountains,
The sprawling entertainment complex at Genting Highlands Frasers Hill retains the most
distinct colonial ambience
40 rides including Grand Prix remains today are sections of with Tudor-style buildings
Go Kart, the Cork-screw roller the wall and cannons. Directly and neat rose gardens. It is a
coaster, and a 185-ft (56-m) below the fort lies the bound- quiet, relaxed place, perfect
Turbo Drop which reaches ary of Taman Alam Kuala for jungle strolls and after-
the ground in less than five Selangor Nature Park, a man noon teas. At the center of
seconds. The resort, consid- grove forest, home to is a market square
ered to be the largest in the over 150 species of nd a clock tower. This
world, has over 6,000 rooms, birds. This is the only mall area is surrounded
a shopping arcade, a golf area in Malaysia to dense woods, which
course, and several concert record sightings of the tain several nature
halls that host international spoonbill sandpiper. s. One of the hill sta-
performing artists. An indoor It is also home to a s main attractions is
leisure zone provides an excel- variety of fish and its abundant flora and
lent alternative on rainy days. crabs, found in the fauna. Over 265
An attraction in itself is the mangroves along species of birds
cable car ride, which is a the parks coastline. Foliage-covered clock have been recorded
popular alternative to the Several artificial tower at Frasers Hill in the area. Every
bus journey for the final 2.5- ponds are sur- June, Frasers Hill
mile (4-km) trip to the top. rounded by nature trails and hosts the annual International
Genting Skyway and AwanaA observation
r hides. Bird Race, in which teams of
Skyway are the two cable car A particular highlight of ornithologists compete to spot
operators that regularly Kuala Selangor is the chance as many bird varieties as pos-
organize these scenic trips. to see the dazzling kelip kelip, sible over a 24-hour period.
or fireflies, along the banks Golfing at the Frasers Hill
Y Genting Theme Park
# daily. &
of the Sungai Selangor at Golf Course is a popular
Kampung Kuantan, 6 miles sport, as is horseback riding.
(10 km) east of the capital. It is possible to fish on Allans
Waters, a tiny lake located in
T Fort Altingsburg
Kuala Selangor 4 Bukit Melawati. # daily.
town. About 3 miles (5 km)
northwest of the center, pass-
42 miles (67 km) NW of Kuala O Taman Alam Kuala ing by a lookout tower, is
Lumpur on Hwy 4, then 5. Selangor Nature Park Jeriau Waterfall, which flows
* 39,200. @ Jalan Klinik. Tel
l (03) 3289-2294. into a small stream.
# daily.
The small and quiet district
capital of Selangor, located
at the mouth of the Sungai Frasers Hill 5
Selangor, was once the royal
capital of the Sultanate of 62 miles (100 km) N of Kuala
Selangor. It was conquered by Lumpur. @ to Kuala Kubu Bharu,
the Dutch in 1784, and soon then Frasers Hill. n WWF Nature
became the scene of a number Education Center, Jalan Genting,
of intense battles. During their (09) 362-2517. 8 nature walks. 0
invasion, the Dutch destroyed
the sultans fort and rebuilt it, A hill station sprawling across
naming it Fort Atlingsburg seven forested hills, the 4,921-
after their governor general. ft (1,500-m) Frasers Hill is
Perched atop Bukit Melawati, named after British pioneer
a hill overlooking the town, Louis James Fraser. A mule-
the fort was fought over train driver and tin-ore trader, Lush, meandering route to the
repeatedly, and all that he arrived here in the late summit of Frasers Hill
Cameron Highlands 6
4(!),!.$
.$
The largest and most popular hill station in Malaysia, (FPSHFUPXO

Cameron Highlands is located on the northwest corner b
of Pahang. It is named for the British surveyor William - ! , !9 3 ) !

Cameron who charted the area in 1885. Dotted with lush
"SFBPGNB
NBQ
tea plantations and farms, the region is renowned for its 4USBJUPG
*MMVTUSBUF
UFE
flowers and fresh produce. The temperature here rarely .BMBDDB *QPI
b
exceeds 22 C (72 F) and is accompanied by mists and

light rainfall, which makes it a great getaway from the
hot plains. It is also a popular destination for trekkers.
Cameron Highlands retains a distinct
with its principal settlement located in
. Ye Olde Smokehouse
A mock-Tudor building on the outskirts
Rata, Ye Olde Smokehouse typifies the co b
architecture that adds to the appeal of C

Highlands. It is popular with visitors for b T
U
Devonshire cream teas.
S
b
Gunung Jasar, at 5,564 ft (1,696 m),

offers fine views across Cameron
Highlands from its bald summit and
is easily accessible by a carefully N
marked trail from Tanah Rata. 5BNBO
5BNB
JIM THOMPSON Q
b
In March 1967, James H.W.

Thompson, a successful
US-born Thai businessman,
disappeared while on holiday
in the Cameron Highlands.
He simply walked out of the
cottage where he was staying,
and never came back. At the
time, and for months after- T
b
wards, the media was filled STAR SIGHTS

with speculation about his
Jim Thompson shortly fate. With his disappearance, . Ye Olde Smokehouse
before his disappearance he became a legendary figure,
leaving behind him a resur- . Sungai Palas
rected and resilient Thai silk industry and a traditional Tea Plantation
teak home in Bangkok. Jim Thompsons home is now
an exquisite museum of Southeast Asian art. . Sam Poh Temple
VISITORS CHECKLIST
56 miles (90 km) E of Ipoh.
* 12,000. @ from Penang
and Kuala Lumpur. n Jalan
Besar, Tanah Rata; (012) 657-
1084. www.cameronhighlands.
com.my
NG
Butterfly Garden
Almost 300 species of
butterfly are on show here,
alongside scorpions, giant
rhinoceros beetles, and
camouflaged stick insects.
6ODMF 4BN T
'UNUNG
MMT
b
Q
Buddhist temple This ornate Chinese-Buddhist temple is situated on
Church a hill overlooking the town of Brinchang. Protected
by gilded lions and temple guardians, it serves as
Peak the main place of worship for the local Chinese.
Birch, the first British Resident influenza during the mansions

in Perak. A short distance construction. Grateful for this
from the Old Town center is act, the workers added a small
Darul Ridzuan Museum. Set statue of Smith amid the Hindu
in a stately 1920s mansion, it deities on the temple roof.
recounts the history of Ipoh
and the rise of the tin mining
industry in Perak. Pulau Pangkor 9
The New Town, on the right
bank of the river, contains 51 miles (83 km) SW of Ipoh.
some splendid Chinese shop- * 25,000. ~ g from Lumut.
houses and most of the citys n Jalan Sultan Idris Shah, Lumut,
accommodations. (05) 683-4057. www.pulau-
pangkor.com
E Darul Ridzuan Museum
Jalan Panglima. Tell (05) 253-8906. Endowed with a laid-back
# 9am5pm SatThu.
feel and some of the best
beaches on the west coast of
the peninsula, Pulau Pangkor
Kellies Castle 8 is a popular destination. The
island is inhabited by a
Birch Memorial Clock Tower 19 miles (30 km) S of Ipoh. @ thriving fishing community.
standing in Ipohs Old Town # 8:30am6pm daily. & - = Most of the local villages,
including Pangkor Town, the
Ipoh 7 A unique fusion of Scottish main settlement, lie on its east
castle and Moorish architec- coast, while the resorts and
128 miles (205 km) N of Kuala ture, Kellies Castle is an stunning powder-white
Lumpur on North-South Hwy. unfinished colonial structure. beaches are strung out on the
* 625,000. ~ @ n 79 Jalan It was built by Scotsman west, around Teluk Nipah.
Medan Istana 3, (05) 255-2772. William Kellie-Smith, who The main beaches include
_ International Orchid Festival (Jun/ made a fortune in the rubber Pasir Bogak, Coral Bay, and
Aug). www.ipoh-online.com.my business in the 19th century. Pantai Puteri Dewi, which is
The mansion was envisioned privately owned and requires
Nestled in the limestone cliffs as a spectacular edifice, com- an entrance fee. The beach
of Kinta Valley, Ipoh is the plete with an elevator, and at Teluk Ketapang, or Turtle
state capital of Perak and work began in 1915. However, Bay, at the northern end of
Malaysias third largest city. Smith died of pneumonia the island, is named for the
It was built on profits from in 1926 while in Portugal, increasingly rare sea turtles
the valleys rich tin mines, leaving his grand home incom- that come ashore here in
which were developed by plete. During World War II, the summer months to lay
immigrant Chinese workers the castle grounds were used their eggs.
in the late-19th century. This as an execution site by the Offering a change of scene
influx of people bequeathed Japanese. Today, it is a well- from the beaches is the
to the city some of the finest preserved attraction set in a historical site of Kota Belanda,
Peranakan architecture seen park with fig and banyan a 17th-century Dutch fort 2
in the country. trees. Also on the grounds is miles (3 km) south of Pangkor
The Kinta River divides a Hindu temple built by Smith Town. The fort was built
Ipoh into two neat halves. for his largely Tamil labor mainly to protect Dutch
Occupying the left bank is force. The temple was built interests in the tin trade from
the Old Town, the most atmos- after many Tamil workers Malay pirates. There are a few
pheric part of the city. It boasts were killed in an epidemic of Hindu and Chinese temples
elegant Chinese mansions and
shophouses, as well as grand
colonial buildings. Built in
1917, Ipoh Station is a blend
of late Victorian and Moorish-
Islamic styles. Directly opposite
stands the Dewan Bandaran,
or Town Hall, a dazzling white
Neoclassical structure. Other
prominent landmarks near
the station include the mock-
Tudor Royal Ipoh Club with
its half-timbered walls and
mullioned windows, and the
historical landmark Birch
Memorial Clock Tower
erected in memory of James Remains of the striking Kellies Castle
the colorful Ling Nam Temple,

the oldest Chinese temple in
Perak, as well as All Saints
Church, the oldest church in
Malaysia. Taiping also has a
number of well-preserved
Chinese shophouses.
E Perak Museum
Tell (05) 807-2057. # daily.
12:152:45pm Fri.
Maxwell Hill w
The picturesque Lake Gardens in Taiping, near the foot of Bukit Larut 6 miles (10 km) NW of Taiping.
government-run Land Rovers
as well. Pangkors compact valley. The temple also from Taiping. n (05) 807-7243.
size makes it ideal for walking doubles as a Chinese art 0 www.perak.gov.my/en
and cycling, although its center. A more recent temple,
densely forested interior Kek Lok Tong, is set in a Now officially called Bukit
remains largely inaccessible. two-tiered cavern and has Larut, Maxwell Hill is the
The resorts arrange fishing a bronze Laughing Buddha. oldest and smallest hill station
and snorkeling day trips to the in Malaysia. It is also the
small islands nearby. Among wettest, receiving the highest
these is Pangkor Laut, home to Taiping q rainfall in the country. Once
Emerald Bay, one of Malaysias a tea plantation, Maxwell Hill
most beautiful beaches, though 40 miles (70 km) N of Ipoh. was founded in the 1870s.
access is restricted to residents * 220,000. from Ipoh. @ It was named after William
of the islands resort. n 355 Jalan Kota; (05) 806-9487. Edward Maxwell, the Assistant
_ Taiping Festival Month (Sep). Resident of Perak. The 3,340-ft
www.perak.gov.my/en (1,020-m) mist-shrouded hill
Kinta Valley 0 station is still developing.
Although the name Taiping Its greatest appeal lies in the
means everlasting peace in
9 miles (15 km) N of Ipoh, off North- bucolic charm of its surround-
South Hwy. @ from Ipoh. 0 Chinese, the old state capital ings and the stunning vistas
of Perak traces its origins to that stretch across the plains
Once rich with tin ore, the a turbulent past, marked by to the Strait of Malacca.
magnifif cent jungle-topped bitter feuds between rival Activities here revolve
limestone cliffs of Kint ese secret societies. around trekking and bird- and
Valley shelter a numbe countrys first tin butterfly-watching. The steep
of caves, which, over ning center and the climb to the summit of Bukit
the years, have been ost important town in Larut, with its spectacular views
converted into erak in the mid-19th on the way up, is a popular
Buddhist temples entury, it began to day trip from Taiping. It twists
and are now popular be overshadowed by through more than 70 hairpin
pilgrimage centers. Ipoh and Kinta Valley bends, dense jungles, and a
The oldest and largest in the 1890s. Now a crumbling, old tea garden.
cave temple is Sam low-key town, with
Poh Tong. Established a distinctly Chinese
by a Buddhist monk Bronze Buddha at feel, Taiping is best
in the late-19th Kek Lok Tong known for its vast,
century, it features tranquil Lake
Chinese-style Mahayana Gardens, or Taman Tasik
Buddhist images. More impres- Taiping. A stroll around the
sive is Perak Tong, one of the town will reveal some attrac-
largest Chinese temples in tive colonial architecture, best
Malaysia, founded in 1926. Its exemplified by the District
interior walls are adorned with Office. It is also home to
murals done by artists from Perak Museum, the oldest
across Southeast Asia. The museum in the country, built
main chamber contains over in 1883. Housed in a grand
40 Buddha statues and a huge colonial building, it is noted
bell believed to be more than for its natural history and
a century old. A series of 400 ethnological exhibits, as well
steps leads up and through the as a fine collection of keris, or
cave to a balcony which offers traditional Malay daggers. One of the many bungalows on
splendid views across the Next door to the museum is peaceful Maxwell Hill
Kuala Kangsar e
31 miles (50 km) NW of Ipoh, off
North-South Hwy. * 40,000.
from Kuala Lumpur and
Georgetown. @ from Ipoh and
Taiping. _ Sultans Birthday (Apr
19). www.perak.gov.my/en
Kuala Kangsar in Perak has

been the royal capital of the
Sultans of Perak for the last
200 years. In the 1870s, it
became the first foothold
for the British in Malaysia,
who initiated their control The distinctive clock tower at the Kuala Kangsar town center
of the peninsula by installing
Residents, or colonial officers, traditional Malay handicrafts, colonial administrative
at the royal courts. During such as mengkuangg woven service. Across the road from
the same period, the town cloth, bamboo products, and the Malay College stands
became the birthplace of the celebrated labu, or gourd- Pavilion Square Tower. Built
Malaysias rubber industry shaped earthenware pots. in 1930, this small wooden
when Sir Hugh Low, then These are manufactured in three-story structure, designed
British Resident in Perak, the village of Sayong, which in colonial and Malay styles,
planted the first seeds is located across the enabled the royal family and
of rubber. By the river and can be British dignitaries to view
1890s, however, the reached by boat. The polo matches and other
towns prestige as an new town is domi- sports events in privacy.
administrative and nated by Chinese
financial center was shophouses and mod- U Masjid Ubudiah
eclipsed by the tin- ern buildings, includ- Jalan Istana.
trading towns of Ipoh ing most of Kuala To the east of Kuala Kangsar,
and Taiping. Kangsars restaurants. along the wide Sungai Perak,
Today a tranquil Crafting labu, Marking the center of an ornamental gateway leads
town, Kuala Kangsar Sayong village town are two colonial- to Masjid Ubudiah, Peraks
remains steeped in era structures, the royal mosque and one of the
Malay tradition and is home distinctive clock tower and finest examples of Islamic
to one of the most attractive the District Office, whose architecture in Malaysia.
royal districts in the country, grounds still contain one of Gracing the slopes of the
as well as some fine colonial the towns first rubber trees. grassy Bukit Chandan, the
architecture and lovely gar- To the north of the town striking mosque is built in
dens. All the main sights are center is one of the most Moorish style. Its magnificent
within walking distance impressive colonial buildings golden onion-shaped dome is
of each other and can be in Kuala Kangsar, the Malay closely surrounded by four
explored in half a day. College. Opened in 1905 soaring white minarets, each
The small town center can during the reign of Sultan crowned with its own small
be divided into old and new Idris, it was the first Malay dome. Construction of the
sections. The older part, close school to provide English mosque began during the
to the banks of the Sungai education to the local elite reign of Sultan Idris but was
Perak, is a good place to buy who were hoping to join the not completed until 1917, the
first year of the reign of his
successor, Sultan Abdul Jalil.
The delays were partly due to
World War I, and partly due
to two royal elephants run-
ning amok and destroying the
imported Italian marble floor.
Next to the mosque is the
Royal Mausoleum, where
rulers of Perak have been
interred since the 18th century.
The interior of the mosque
is officially closed to non-
Muslims. However, visitors
are free to explore the
grounds of the mosque and
are permitted to photograph
The magnificient Masjid Ubudiah, Peraks royal mosque the building.
E Istana Iskandariah
Jalan Istana.
Perched at the summit of
Bukit Chandan, overlooking
the Sungai Perak and Masjid
Ubudiah, the modern Istana
Iskandariah was built in 1933
and is the official residence
of the present royal family.
Set amid rolling lawns, the
imposing white marble
palace, with its series of
towers topped by golden
domes, reflects a fusion of
Moorish and 1930s colonial
Art Deco styles. A less
impressive annex was added
on the southern side in 1984.
Although the palace is not Faade of the grand Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah, a state museum
open to visitors, a stroll along
the two small roads that form panels and intricate friezes. location of the prestigious
its boundary provides excel- The roof features five ridges girls college Sekolah Raja
lent views of the building and and is surmounted by a sym- Perempuan Mazwin, or
its lawns, especially from bolic row of bananas. The Mazwin School for Ladies, for
the riverside. ground floor of the palace several decades. The palace
features extensive verandas has now been converted into
E Istana Kenangan that allow cool breezes to the Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah,
Jalan Istana. # 9:30am5pm Sat flow through the entire space. or Sultan Azlan Shah Museum,
Thu. 12:152:45pm Fri. & The erstwhile palace now a Perak state museum. Exhibits
Just to the southwest of Istana houses the Perak Royal showcase traditional handi-
Iskandariah stands the smaller Museum, popularly known as crafts of the state including a
but more captivating Istana Muzium Di Raja, which traces fine collection of traditional
Kenangan, or Palace of the history of Perak and its keris, or Malay daggers, and
Memories. This palace was royal family through images examples of tekatt embroidery.
built in 1931 for Sultan and artifacts. Most significant, however, is
Iskandar Shah (18761938) as the museums extensive col-
a temporary royal residence E Istana Hulu lection of royal gifts, photo-
while the Istana Iskandariah Jalan Istana. # 9:30am5pm graphs, and other personal
was being constructed. It is a daily. & effects belonging to Azlan
superb example of traditional The beautiful Victorian-style Shah, the present Sultan of
Malay architecture. The struc- Istana Hulu is another former Perak, who has also served
ture is built entirely of wood palace that was built in 1903 as the ninth YYang di-Pertaun
without the use of an archi- for Sultan Idris, the 28th Sultan Agong, or King of Malaysia,
tectural plan, nails, or steel, of Perak. When the palace from 1984 to 1994, a rotating
and is decorated with geo- ceased to function as a royal position held by sultans of
metric-patterned bamboo residence, it became the the various states.
The beautiful Istana Kenangan, built in traditional Malay style, now housing the Perak Royal Museum
Sprawling tea plantation in the Cameron Highlands

Georgetown r P Weld Quay Clan Piers

Pengkalan Weld. @ from
Located on the northeastern coast of Penang, KOMTAR. g
Georgetown is one of Malaysias most visited cities. South of Little India, along
Founded in 1786 by Captain Francis Light as a base Weld Quay and projecting
for the British East India Company in the Malay states, into the southern channel of
the town, which was named after the Prince of Wales, the Strait of Malacca, stand
soon developed into the states economic and cultural long rows of jetties on which
hub. An essentially Chinese city today, Georgetown
has an authentic Straits Settlement atmosphere,
enhanced by its well-preserved colonial archite
traditional wooden shophouses, and the divers
developed by its Indian, Malay, Peranakan, Tha
and European communities.
P Fort Cornwallis Seri Rambai, is of D 6

- & # 6 ) '" 3 2 6 ) " 3
+ " - " / 4 - 5" / "
Lebuh Light. @ from KOMTAR via origin and dates bac ) ."
%
Weld Quay. # 9am7pm daily. In a small traffic ci 4)
")
The spot where Sir Francis southeast of the fort + " - " / " 3( :
+"
-- "
-
Light (see p103) stepped Victoria Memorial Cl
+"
/
4
3*
IFPOH
5[F.
.
OH
H
ashore in 1786, Fort an elegant colonial e
3
+- -" #"
/
4'&
) )
"3 / "
3* *5
-&
Cornwallis, in the colonial crowned by a Moor *' "
(
"/
'* 3 )
/ (
#6
/
: -&#
3
core of Georgetown, is a dome. Built in 1897 +-/ -- -& 6
"
+" )
/ 5
-"
F
/
%
great place to start an ex ted by a Georg / ,0 8
-"
&
:"
#FOHBM
1
)6 )
ration of the city on foot wkay, or Chine +" 55 .PTRVF 5F
/
0
/
"
-&
by bicycle, or by trishaw essman, it comm $ #6
-
% *$
4USFFU 9 )
+"
,&
The original fort was a he diamond jub /4 -&
53"
#6
$) )
$"
$*/
simple palm-tree stock- Queen Victoria 1) +
&& "-"
08
3"
.#
&-
-
3
$ / 45"
4"
ade, but in 1805 this was The memorial s )0
BSLF
BSLFU
/(
)
0/
#6
-*
replaced by a star-shaped (18-m) high in
,"
-&
-&
1)
&&
# 6 5"
-"
$ ) -
brick and mortar structur f the 60 years 5"
6"
)0 /
0/ 1*
+"
complete with moat and monarchs reig /

/
-"
-"
-"
( ,
/
/ +"
+"
*.
+0
crenellated walls to west of the for
%
6 #&
36
3-
4 :
.
/
shelter cannon guarding parklands of th 0.5"
5"
5"3 +-
$
Q
)
the harbor. As the first Kota Lama, or t

8
/
"
-&
&&
0
3*
"7
#6
headquarters of the
/
City Green. Am
-&
)
3/
-"
5&
0
$"
+"
+"
,
/
40
British East India fine colonial b
(
-
6)
&-
"
0
":
/ #
/
-&
6
Company in Penang, the south an

-&
.
#6
+"
"
)
9
-"
Fort Cornwallis Victoria Memorial are the Sup

8
1&
/
&
3"
+"
-
contained barracks for Court, the D

13
-"
/(
Clock Tower
-
/
"
*/
."
/
troops, a signal Undangan N

"/
("
(
;*
*/
/&
station, administrative offices, State Legislative Bui -& 6)
#6
)
-&#
/0
and a Christian chapel. Today, the grand Dewan Ba -&
03
%*
/
little remains of the fort apart City Hall. To the nor #6
)
13
&4
from its outer fortifi
f cations. the northern channe -&
4(
3"
7 &
PSU
#6 NJMFT
JMFT N
The inner area is a park Strait of Malacca, run )
liberally scattered with Esplanade, named Ja

cannon. The oldest of these, Syed Sheh Barakbah
Chew Jetty, founded in the

1870s, followed by the Lee,
Tan, YYeoh, and Koay jetties.
The most recent, the Mixed
Clan and Peng A Aun jetties, date
from the 1960s. Six are home
to Sino-Malaysian Buddhist
clans, while the last, Koay
Jetty, is Muslim, being home
to around 30 Chinese Hui
Muslim families. All the jetties,
except Koay, terminate in
small temples. The most impor- r
tant one, on Chew Jetty, is
Replica of 18th-century British camp and cannon, Fort Cornwallis dedicated to the Jade Emperor.
G E O R G E T O W N 101
Khoo Kongsi Temple VISITORS CHECKLIST

Medan Cannon. @ from KOMTAR.
# 9am5pm daily. & Penang Island. * 220,000.
www.khookongsi.com.my k to Butterworth, then
Penangs greatest historical ferry. @ g n KOMTAR, (04)
attraction, the gloriously 264-3494. _ Penang
ornate Khoo Kongsi Temple, International Dragon Boat Festival
was founded in 1835 by (Jun), Pesta Pulau Penang (Nov
Dec), Chingay (Dec).
www.tourismpenang.gov.my
his as an
vine wrath at
a temple too
tor worship,
was built again,
M vish scale.
g dynasty style,
--
)
BO
)
#6
/ )*
#
#BOEBSBO wall carvings,
5"
"
-&
+" -
" / 56
/ ( ,0
/
s, and fine roof
(3&&
4:&
%4
)& )
e building is
%"
1FOBOH
1 H
#" 3 "
4VQSFNF
/ 1"
- BSZ
-J SZ
-&
#6
)
-&
#6 U
ainted dragons
+"-"
,#"
IF '" )
UJPO K 32
6)
MJJT icious figures.
)
"3 -*( Q
E 4U
4U(F )5
"
.6 1F
/5
/5
3* .VTF $IV
IVSD -&
(
$*
#6
/
"SU ) $MPDL
-&
"
(
/(
#6
/
6
*/
/
1&
-%
)
30
,-
*0
,VB :JO
/

8&
#*
-0
-&
/
$ 5 QMF
MF 4)
)
#6
5"
)
#6
6 -0 -& ) 0
%
/(
-* 1
1*
3 #6
0
0/ (
/
-&
"
8
,"
( )
,*
&3
"-"
1" *
/
4" &+
*/
5"
3 $) "
)
1
(
*/
#6
/
(,
,BQJUB "
1"
-&
H
(
1&/
+*%
"
#6 4 .B NN NBO- -JU EJB )

5
$, 6
*/ (
-&
&#
"4
)" 5 NQMF 6) &#

#6
.
"/
-
(
.
-& 1"
)
"5
4 4"
(
#
+"-
"/
3
&3
-&
.BOTJPO
.B -& 6
&+
#6
#6
)
+"-
"
(
)
- &
)
"5
1 "
$
$
)
-&
# 6) .11#
)
#
*/
"3. 2
#6
4UB
6
&/* 6
"
&&
)
-*
#
"/
1"
"DIFFO :FPI
"
4"
4USFF
USFFU , :FMM
3
("
"
-&
3*

5
#6
50
-&
$
,I P,POH 7*
)
#6
50
5
5FNQM
J
)
)
",
"3
"

"
)
.
$)
# 6
&/
-& 8
&)
*"
(& Kongsi Temple,

/
*%
#3 % tricate carvings
&-
8
/
-"
," et Mosque
/(
1& om Lebuh Chulia.
- "/
+" est buildings in
e Acheen Street
GEO
OR
unded in 1808
s Sumatran
nt. It was
to serve the
g t
slim commu-
them. This kongsi, however, nity of Lebuh Aceh, Penangs
E & O Hotel y
became a center not just for first urban Malay village. It
Fort Cornwallis 1 the Khoos, but for four other is more commonly known as
Hainan Temple r powerful Hokkien-speaking Masjid Melayu, or the Malay
Khoo Kongsi Temple 3 families, the Cheah, Lim, Tan, Mosque, to distinguish it from
Kuan Yin Temple 9 and YYeoh clans, who ran an the nearby Masjid Kapitan
Little India 8 influential secret society. Kling, which was built by
Masjid Kapitan Kling 6 The original temple, thought Indian-Muslim migrants.
Penang Museum and Art too modest for the thriving The mosque, a 5-minute
Khoo clan, was demolished walk from Lebuh Chulia, has
Gallery q
in 1894. A magnificent new an Egyptian-style minaret and
Sri Mariamman Temple 7 temple was constructed over an Achenese-style roof. The
St. Georges Church 0 the next eight years, but it hole halfway up its minaret
Syed Alatas Mansion 5 burned to the ground within was the result of a cannonball
Weld Quay Clan Piers 2 a month of its completion. fired in a clan riot in Penang.
bulk of Penangs Indian

Muslims. Mohudeen, officially
named headman of the
Chulias in 1801, died in 1834.
His tomb is located at the
nearby Kampung Kolam.
The Masjid has been restored
and altered on several occa-
sions, most notably in 1910
when it was given its present
appearance with the addition
of Indian-style copper domes,
turrets, and a minaret. A
madrassa, or religious school,
was added in 1916. In 1935,
the height of the central
prayer hall was doubled,
allowing more natural light
The 19th-century Syed Alatas Mansion, a museum and information center and air into the interior. The
most recent renovation took
E Syed Alatas Mansion upholstery, and items used place in 2003, when Arabic
128 Lebuh Armenian. Tell (04) in religious rituals. One of calligraphy was added to the
261-6606. @ # 9:30am6:30pm the most unusual artifacts on interior of the main dome and
WedMon. & www.penang- display is a ceremonial Malay to the walls, which were
islamicmuseum.net circumcision chair. Facets of originally decorated with
Syed Mohammed Alatas was a Malay wedding rituals are also intricate floral motifs.
wealthy and influential 19th- chronicled. The Personalities
century Achenese business- Room has exhibits on iconic Sri Mariamman Temple
man and leader of Penangs Malay figures of the past. The Jalan Masjid Kapitan Kling. @
Malay community. In the entrance displays a beduk, or # 6am9pm daily. _ Thaipusam
1860s he built a magnificent a long wooden drum, used to (Jan/Feb), Navaratri (Oct/Nov).
rumah besar, or great house, sound the call to prayer five On the opposite side of the
on Armenian Street where he times a day. street from Masjid Kapitan
lived with his family until Kling is the Sri Mariamman
his death in the early 20th U Masjid Kapitan Kling Temple, a typical southern
century. Set in a walled com- Jalan Masjid Kapitan Kling. Tell (04) Indian temple with an elabo-
pound, the two-story Syed 261-6663. @ n Islamic Information rately carved and painted
Alatas Mansion is an eclectic Center. # daily. prayer times. gopuram, or tiered entrance
mix of Malay, Indian, and Masjid Kapitan Kling, the gateway of a Hindu temple.
European architectural and oldest and best-known historic Dedicated to the deity
cultural influences. It features mosque in Penang, was Mariamman, or Great Powerful
a terra-cotta hipped roof that founded around 1800 by Mother, this is Penangs oldest
slopes down to the eaves Caudeer Mohudeen. He was Hindu temple.
and a carriage porch with a a prominent member of the Established by pious local
gable roof. The building is islands Indian Muslim com- Tamils as a simple shrine, it
elaborately decorated with munity and bore the title became a fully-fledged temple
molded cornices and elegant Kapitan Kling, or Captain of in 1833. Artisans were brought
stuccowork. Although con- the Klings. Kling was a term from Madras to create images
sidered one of the finest employed at that time to of the goddess Mariamman in
examples of upper-class describe Tamil Muslims, also all her aspects. Subsequently,
Malay Muslim residences in called Chulia, who formed the a 23-ft (7-m) high gopuram
Penang, it fell into a state of
disrepair when it was aban-
doned in the 1930s and
remained virtually forgotten
for most of the 20th century.
In 1993, the mansion was
taken over and restored by
the Penang State Government
and eventually reopened as
the Penang Islamic Museum.
It houses various collections
of Islamic and Malay artifacts,
and also functions as an infor-
mation center. The exhibits
are displayed thematically,
and include Arabic callig-
raphy, ceramics, carpets and The ornate domes and graceful faade of Masjid Kapitan Kling
was added, with sculptures predominate. With attractions

of about 38 Hindu deities. that include mosques, Hindu
A statue of Lord Murugan, temples, and Chinese clan
adorned with gold and dia- enclaves, as well as a host of
monds, was also installed. restaurants, Little India is now
Several times a year, Sri a great draw for food-lovers,
Mariamman is taken out of the heritage enthusiasts, and
temple in a wooden chariot, visitors who simply want to
and carried in procession soak up the atmosphere.
through the streets of Little
India. The most important Kuan Yin Temple
occasion is Navaratri, a nine- Jalan Masjid Kapitan Kling. @
night celebration in October Dedicated to Kuan Yin, or
or November when devotees the goddess of mercy, this
worship female deities, such temple was originally con-
as Durga, Saraswati, Lakshmi, structed as a shared Hokkien St. Georges Church with its Doric
and Mariamman. Penangs and Cantonese temple and columns and octagonal steeple
annual Thaipusam (see p29) community center. Its foun-
procession also begins here. dation stone was laid in 1800, 5 St. Georges Church
making it one of the oldest Lebuh Farquhar. Tell (04) 261-2739.
P Little India Chinese temples in the @ # 8:30am12:30pm and 1:30
Lebuh Pasar. @ 0 www.tourism province of Penang. 4:30pm TueSat, 8:30am4:30pm
penang.gov.my Kuan Yin is perhaps the Sun. 7 5 www.stgeorgespg.org
Penangs colorful and vibrant most worshiped of Chinese The oldest Anglican church in
Little India, throbbing deities, and also much Southeast Asia, St. Georges
with antiquity and revered by Buddhists and Church was constructed in
tradition, dates . Associated with 1818 to serve the growing
back to the early e, good fortune, Christian community of
19th century, when ertility, she Penang. Designed by military
Indian migrants to rtrayed with 18 engineer and painter Captain
Penang began to . Feast days are Robert Smith, it was built
settle in and around to honor Kuan by the British East India
Lebuh Pasar, then ns birthday, Company using convict
called Kadai Teru, nitiation, and labor. In 1886, to mark the
or shop street. attainment of centenary of the founding
Since most of the nirvana. Even of Penang and to honor Sir
early migrants were today, the temple Francis Light, a small Greek-
Tamils, the area was ustles with style domed pavilion was
commonly known as Tourists on a worshipers carrying built on the church grounds.
Little Madras, but over trishaw ride ritual offerings of The tall octagonal steeple of
the years other commu- flowers, oil, and food, the Neoclassical church once
nities also moved in. Soon the especially on temple days. dominated the town, although
enclave acquired a distinctive These fall on the first and today the graceful structure
south Asian feel and gained 15th day of every lunar is overshadowed by towering
its current sobriquet. month, and on the 19th day commercial buildings. Farther
The narrow streets of Little of the second, sixth, and west on Lebuh Farquhar is
India are lined with shops ninth lunar months. Puppet the Protestant Cemetery,
selling all kinds of south shows and Chinese opera per- where Sir Francis Light is
Asian produce, from saris formances are held on these buried in a gazebo-like tomb
and gold jewelry to flower days to honor the goddess. shaded by frangipani trees.
garlands and images of Hindu
deities. The wide range of
shops and services includes SIR FRANCIS LIGHT
astrologers, millers, grocers, Born in Suffolk, England, in 1740, Francis Ligh
fruit-sellers, herb dealers, and joined the British East India Company in 1765
moneychangers. The aroma Directed to find a suitable island base for their
of spice, incense, and curry commercial activities in Southeast Asia, he
suffuses the air, while the chose Pulau Penang, which he then acquired
bells of trishaw drivers and from the Sultan of Kedah in 1786. Having
the constant bustle of the successfully established a colony, he served
crowds make the ambience as its superintendent until his death in 1794
quintessentially Indian. of malaria. He was buried at the Protestant
Although Bahasa Malaysia Cemetery at Lebuh Farquhar. As closely linked
and English are the main to Penangs growth as Sir Stamford Raffles
spoken languages of Penang, is to Singapores, Sir Francis Light is still
here, the rolling, fast-paced honored as a founding father. His statue now Statue of Sir
southern Indian tongues of stands at Georgetowns Fort Cornwallis. Francis Light
Malayalam and Tamil
E 100 Cintra Street

100 Cintra Street. Tell (04) 264-3581.
# 11am6pm TueSun. & 8
- = www.100cintrastreet.com
Located in the heart of
Chinatown, this is a
Peranakan-influenced man-
sion that was built in 1897 by
a local woman of Thai origin.
Partially destroyed by fire in
1984, it was rebuilt using
as much of the surviving
structure as possible, and
was reopened in 1999 as a
shopping center specializing
in antiques and artifacts. It
The stately gray exterior of the Cathedral of the Assumption also has a small tea shop.
Since then it has undergone
E Penang Museum and originally from Phuket, had several changes, and today
Art Gallery fled to Kuala Kedah in 1781 the first floor of the three-
Lebuh Farquhar. Tell (04) 261-3144. with Bishop Garnault of Siam story building functions as
@ # 9am5pm SatThu. & 7 to escape religious perse- an antique and curio center
Located next to St. Georges cution. In Kuala Kedah, they offering a fascinating selection
Church in the former Penang were joined by Catholics of of 19th-century furniture,
Free School, this small Portuguese descent. The pictures, porcelain, brassware,
museum houses an excellent group, led by Garnault, calligraphy, paintings, and
collection of maps, records, arrived in Georgetown on carpets. The second floor
and displays charting the the eve of the Feast of the functions as a budget guest-
growth of Penang Assumption in house, while the third floor
since the arrival of 1786. His mission has been converted into a
Sir Francis Light. was later relo- folk museum, focusing on the
The first floor cated to Penang. history and culture of Penang,
showcases the Although this with special emphasis on the
various ethnic imposing gray Peranakan, or Straits Chinese
groups that structure, built community. Indian and Malay
constitute the along classical items are also on display.
population of British East India Company lines, was not
Penang, with insignia, Penang Museum erected at Hainan Temple
exhibits of cloth- and Art Gallery Lebuh Farquhar Lebuh Muntri.
ing, photographs, until 1857, it was Popularly known as the
household items, and artifacts nonetheless named in mem- Hainan Temple, the bustling
associated with the islands ory of the arrival of these first Thean Ho Keong, which
Peranakan, Malay, Chinese, parishioners. The cathedral means Temple of the
and Indian communities. houses Penangs only pipe Heavenly Queen, is dedicated
The second floor is devoted to organ. In 1955, it was eleva- to Mar Chor, the patron saint
Penangs history with special ted by Vatican decree to the of seafarers. Commonly
emphasis on the colonial era, status of Cathedral of the known as Matsu in China and
the Japanese occupation, the Diocese of Penang. Thien Hau in Vietnam, the
Chinese and Indian settle-
ments, and the gaining of
independence. The adjacent
art gallery features 19th-
century paintings of Penang
by Robert Smith, the architect
of St. Georges Church.
5 Cathedral of the
Assumption
Lebuh Farquhar. 7 ^ 5
The citys premier Catholic
place of worship, the stately
Cathedral of the Assumption
was founded to serve the
Eurasian Catholics who had
moved to Penang following
Sir Francis Lights establish-
ment of a British colony here.
The Eurasians, who were Chinese worshiper praying at the colorful altar at Hainan Temple
Hotel and Rangoons famous

Strand. A landmark in colonial
architecture, it boasts a 830-ft
(253-m) seafront lawn the
longest in the world and its
suites overlook manicured
lawns and lush gardens with
a panoramic view across the
Strait of Malacca.
Long a center of Penangs
social life, the hotel has
hosted eminent guests such
as Noel Coward, Rudyard
Kipling, Herman Hesse, and
Douglas Fairbanks. Somerset
Maugham, another visitor,
referred to the E & O in
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, now a luxurious hotel several of his writings. Today,
it is a great place to eat a light
goddess is worshiped, in filigree ornamentation with tiffin lunch followed by after-
particular, wherever the louvered and stained-glass noon tea, or to sip a cocktail
Chinese settled throughout windows in the Western style, at sunset under the rain trees
Southeast Asia. The temple cast-iron balusters, and Stoke- on the hotels private veranda.
was initially established as on-Trent floor tiling. Today,
a clan house for overseas the mansion functions as an
Chinese from Hainan Island opulent and unique homestay
in 1866, although the current heritage hotel (see p277).
building dates from 1895.
During its centenary celebra- P E & O Hotel
tions in 1995, the temple was 10 Lebuh Farquhar. Tell (04) 222-
carefully restored and a new 2000. 0 - = www.e-o-
frontage was added with hotel.com
ornate carvings
r and distinctive The grande dame of Penangs
swirling dragon pillars. hotels, the Eastern & Oriental
(see p277) is not just one of
P Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion the most luxurious, but also
14 Lebuh Leith. Tell (04) 262-5289. one of the great historic
& for tours. 8 11am & 3pm Mon hotels of Southeast Asia.
Fri, 11am Sat & Sun. www.cheong Popularly called the E & O,
fatttzemansion.com it was established in 1884
This spectacular mansion was by the Armenian Sarkies
built by Cheong Fatt Tze, a brothers, who went on to Georgetowns historic Eastern &
young Hakka Chinese entre- found Singapores Raffles Oriental Hotel
preneur who eventually
became one of Southeast
Asias richest businessmen. FIVE FOOT WAY A S
Although Cheong Fatt Tze Originally used by builders from Guangdong in China,
built several grand houses, this style of Chinese shophouse has long been associated
this 1904 mansion is consid- with the former Straits Settlements of Singapore, Penang,
ered the most magnificent. and Malacca. The widespread presence of Five Foot
Fatt Tze lived here with three Ways in Singapore and urban Malaysia is attributed to Sir
of his favorite wives, raising Stamford Raffles, who decreed that all shophouses should
eight sons. The house fell into have verandas that form continuous and open passages.
disrepair after his death in Characterized by load-
1916, but it has since been bearing gable walls and
beautifully restored, winning massive roof beams that
the prestigious UNESCO Asia span the building, these
Pacific Heritage AAward for shophouses extend over
authentic restoration in 2000. the narrow sidewalks
Said to be the largest tradi- forming a sort of
tional courtyard house in the covered walkway
region, the building conforms and providing shelter
to the principles of geomancy, from the sun and the
and blends Chinese and monsoon rains. The
Western architectural con- sidewalk can be further
cepts. Painted a deep blue, shaded by lowering
the mansion features Qing Shop signs over a Five Foot Way split bamboo blinds.
dynasty latticework and
Dhammikarama to the Arahant Upagutta, an attended to by Thai monks

arhatt widely revered in and serves the small local Thai
Temple t Burma for his powers. A community, as well as both
mural depicts the renunciation Theravada and Mahayana
Burma Lane, off Jalan Burma, Pulau of Siddhartha Gautama, the Buddhist devotees from across
Tikus, 2 miles (3 km) NW of Historical Buddha. the island. Legend has it that
Georgetown. @ # daily. the temples first abbot, a
_ Burmese New Year (Apr). monk named Phorthan Kuat,
Wat Chaya- or honorable father Kuat, was
The 200-year old Burmese mangkalaram y fond of local laksa or spicy
enclave at Pulau Tikus is home noodle soup, and even today
to a spectacular Theravada Burma Lane, off Jalan Burma, devotees bring bowls of laksa
Buddhist monastery, founded Pulau Tikus, 2 miles (3 km) NW of to offer at his shrine.
in 1803 and known originally Georgetown. @ # daily.
as the Nandy Molah Burmese _ Songkran (Apr).
Temple. Now called the
Dhammikarama Temple in Popularly known as the
honor of the dhamma, or Temple of the Reclining
corpus of Buddhist teachings, Buddha, this is the largest
this is Penangs oldest Buddhist Buddhist temple in Penang.
place of worship. The name means temple of
The temple gateway, well auspicious victory. The
guarded by a pair of stucco building dates from 1845,
elephants, leads to a com- when the Thai community
pound shaded by a peepul asked the government for land
tree and dotted with mythical on which to build a monastery.
figures and religious icons, The land was granted by the
among them myriad Buddhas, then Governor of Penang,
flying beings, and chimeras. W. L. Butterworth. The temple
The ornate red-tiled houses a Reclining
roof of the temple, Buddha statue, con-
embellished with gleam- structed in 1958 to mark The manicured grounds of the
ing gold filigree work, the 2,500th anniversary
i Penang Botanic Gardens
is Burmese in inspi- of the birth of Gautama
ration and visible from Buddha. Called Phra
afar. The complex Chaiya Mongkol, the
Penang Botanic
includes monks statue measures an Gardens u
quarters, a wishing impressive 108 ft (33 m)
pool where visitors toss in length and is said to 5 miles (8 km) W on the outskirts of
coins that are later Detail on Wat be the third-longest Georgetown. @ n (04) 227-0428.
used towards temple Chayamangkalaram Reclining Buddha in # 5am8pm daily. 8 by prior
maintenance, and a the world. Besides arrangement. 7 special walkways.
peaceful prayer hall housing a the main shrine hall, the - = www.sukpp.gov.my/
large Burmese-style image of temple includes a Thai-style KebunBunga/main.html
the Buddha. Within the hall gilded stupa, or chedi, and
are rows of finely carved fierce temple guardians called Established by the colonial
arhat, or spiritual practitioner yaksas. The whole complex administration in 1884 on the
who had attained nirvana, is distinctively central Thai in site of a disused quarry, the
created by Burmese artisans. style, down to the gold-painted beautifully landscaped Penang
The temple also has a shrine pagodas. The temple is Botanic Gardens are undoubt-
edly the finest botanical gar-
dens in Peninsular Malaysia.
Spread across 72 acres (29 ha)
of land dominated by an
attractive waterfall, rain forest-
covered hills, and a small
river, the gardens provide
protected habitat for rare
species of plant and also
serve as a green lung for
Georgetown and its people.
The gardens owe their
beauty to the untiring work
of Charles Curtis, who was
the first to nurture and
transform the former granite
quarry into a lush tropical
Ornate and colorful faade of the Buddhist Wat Chayamangkalaram garden and nursery. In 1946,
after World War II ended, the

Penang Botanic Gardens were
separated from their parent
establishment in Singapore
and began functioning as an
independent entity.
Besides their educational
and preservational role, the
gardens are a popular spot for
locals to exercise, jog, or walk
in the refreshingly unpolluted
air. There are two paved
trails, the shorter Lower Circle
and the longer Upper Circle.
Surrounding these are less
accessible forested areas.
Botanical attractions include The rich variety of fauna that blankets the Penang Hill
the Aroid Walkway, featuring
plants of the philodendron and took Burmese, Chinese, (830-m) hill still offers a
family, the ornamental plant and Thai artisans more than refreshing retreat from the
house, the fern house, the two decades to complete. tropical heat of Georgetown.
cactus house, and the lily Kek Lok Sis most celebrated Sir Francis Light, the founder
pool. Among the species of feature is the magnificent of Penang, is said to have
rare trees seen here are the seven-tier Pagoda of King ordered the construction of a
cannonball tree, the candle Rama VI, completed in 1930 horse track to the top of the
tree, the baobab, ebony, and and named after the Thai mon- hill in 1788. Today, however,
the argus pheasant tree. The arch who laid the foundation visitors can ride up the hill
gardens also house a nursery stone. Also known as the in a more spectacular and
of commercial plants, such as pagoda of ten thousand comfortable manner on the
pepper, cloves, and nutmeg. Buddhas, it stands at a height Penang Hill Railway, a steep
of 100 ft (30 m). This impres- funicular line built in 1923.
goda was designed Enthusiastic walkers can opt
Kek Lok e different styles, for a 3-hour hike up a tarred
Si Temple i n octagonal Chinese- track that begins at the quarry
e base, middle tiers at the entrance of the Penang
Ayer Itam, 5 miles (8 km) Thai architecture, Botanic Gardens.
W of Georgetown. @ n d a Burmese-style The hill is an area rich in
(04) 828-3317. # daily. & wn, symbolic of the biodiversity and has a number
- = _ Loy Krathong (N ty of Mahayana and of rare endemic species.
eravada Buddhism. Dipterocarp and coniferous
The largest and The temple trees are common, as are tree
most celebrated grounds contain ferns. The summit offers pano-
Buddhist temple lovely gardens ramic views across the nearby
in Malaysia, Kek and sacred ponds, Strait of Malacca to Penang
Lok Si, or the including the Bridge, the mainland, and
temple of supreme Bronze statue of Kuan Sacred Turtle Butterworth. Also on the
bliss, is spread Yin, Kek Lok Si Temple Pond where the summit are a colorful Hindu
across a hilltop devout release temple and a mosque.
overlooking the district of captive turtles as an act of
A
Ayer Itam. Long sacred to the spiritual liberation.
islands Chinese residents, the Dominating all is a massive
hills of Ayer
A Itam are believed bronze statue of Kuan Yin,
by locals to be geomantically the goddess of mercy.
fortuitous and a suitable
retreat for Taoist devotees
seeking immortality. This Penang Hill o
beautiful temple was initially
envisioned by the head monk Ayer Itam. Funicular Railway,
of the Kuan Yin Temple (see 6:30am9pm MonFri, 6:30am
p103) on Jalan Masjid Kapitan 11:15pm SatSun. @ to Funicular
Kling and supported by the Railway terminal. &
Chinese consul in Penang.
Later, the idea was backed by Malaysias oldest hill station,
the Qing Emperor Guangxu, Penang Hill, also known as
who gave its foundation an Bukit Bendera or Flagstaff
imperial tablet and 70,000 Hill, was first developed in
volumes of Buddhist sutras. 1897. Although only one hotel Carriage being pulled up the steep
Construction began in 1893 functions today, the 2,720-ft funicular Penang Hill Railway
Boats and jet-skis off the beaches of Batu Ferringhi
Batu Ferringhi p Indonesia. Three specially from the village to the rocky
designed garden trails lead to promontory of Muka Head,
9 miles (14 km) NW of Georgetown. 11 separate gardens that fea- passing the scenic Ailing
@ 93 from Georgetown. 0 = ture special plant collections and Duyong Bays, heading
with signboards indicating southwest into the Pantai Aceh
Also known as Foreigners their common and botanical Forest Reserve and beyond to
Rock, Batu Ferringhi is names and their various uses. Kerachut Beach.
Penangs premier beachside On the eastern side of
Y Tropical Spice Garden
destination and one of the # daily. & free for children below
Teluk Bahang is the Penang
most developed beach strips 4 years. - =
Cultural Center, which offers
anywhere
y in Malaysia. Facing a glimpse of the diverse
northwest into the Strait of cultures of Malaysia through
Malacca, the shore at Batu daily performances of tradi-
Ferringhi was once a delight- Teluk Bahang a tional music and dance. Just
ful coconut-lined sandy strand south of the bus station, Craft
and a popular destination for 12 miles (19 km) NW of Georgetown. k is a handicraft workshop
Batik
hippies in the 1970s. @ 93 from Georgetown. and showroom where visitors
However, over the past three can observe batikk being made
decades, it has changed dra- At the western end of and also shop for sarongs and
matically into a bustling coastal Penangs northern beaches batikk paintings. Nearby, the
strip, lined with high-rise sits the small fishing village of Teluk Bahang Orchid Garden
hotels and a wide range of res- Teluk Bahang, or sunburned is a cozy place that displays
taurants and shops. Although bay. The detritus of an active a fine selection of Southeast
the beach is clean, the sea is fishing industry litters the Asian orchids. Next door is
a little murky and filled with sand, and while the beach is the Penang Butterfly Farm,
jellyfish. The waves are not not suitable for swimming, it where more than 100 species
high enough for surfing, but is an excellent place to stop of butterflies, along with
this is a good place to sun- and enjoy fresh seafood. spiders and other insects,
bathe and relax. Several tracks lead westward are on view amid attractive
The beach was hit by the
2004 tsunami, but has since
completely recovered. Today,
Batu Ferringhis easy accessi-
bility from Georgetown means
that it is popular with day
visitors and usually busy, espe-
cially at weekends. Prices are
especially low on weekdays
and off- f season months (from
around March to October).
Just a mile (2 km) west of
Batu Ferringhi is the Tropical
Spice Garden, where visitors
can view more than five
hundred species of plants
from Malaysia, Thailand, and Fishing boats moored along the shores of Teluk Bahang
gardens with varied flora, Chinese migrants. It honors

waterfalls, and ponds. South the memory of a venerated
of Teluk Bahang, the well- Chinese Buddhist monk
maintained Forest Recreation named Chor Soo Kong who
k offers further good oppor-
Park is said to have had healing
tunities for trekking and camp- powers. He was born in
ing in relative comfort of the Chinas Fujian Province
lush jungle. during the reign of the 11th-
P Penang Cultural Center
century Song Emperor
(04) 885-1175. # 9:30am10pm Renzong. Chor Soo Kong later
daily. & 8 became an ascetic seeking
spiritual enlightenment, which
O Penang Butterfly Farm
he attained under the guid-
# 9am5pm Mon-Fri, 9am
5:30pm SatSun. &
ance of Zen master Ming Song.
Soon after he practiced as a
Y Teluk Bahang Orchid doctor, catering to the needs
Garden of the poor. Chor Soo Kong
# 8am7pm daily. &
retired to a monastery on
Peng Lai Mountain, where he Offerings at the Sam Poh Footprint
was sanctified after his death. Temple at Batu Maung
Universiti Sains According to folklore, the
Malaysia Museum statue of the deified Chor Soo Batu Maung f
Kong was brought to Penang
and Art Gallery s by a monk from China in 9 miles (15 km) S of Georgetown.
@&0-=
1850, and was enshrined in a
4 miles (6 km) S of Georgetown. temple at Bayan Lepas. When
W
Tell (04) 657-7888. @ from the temple was complete, the A Chinese fishing village in
Georgetown. # 9am4:30pm Sun pious monk allowed snakes the southeast of Pulau Penang,
Thu, 10am1pm Sat. 12:15 from the surrounding jungle to Batu Maung is known for its
2:45pm Fri. & 8 take shelter there. The snakes fine fresh seafood restaurants.
were venomous W Waglers pit It is also famous for the Sam
Situated on the campus of vipers called ular kapak Poh Footprint Temple, named
Universiti Sains Malaysia, tokongg in Malay. Today, these for a strange footprint-shaped
near the western end of vipers still inhabit the temple, indentation in a rock. This
Penang Bridge, is the well- and are its main attraction, footprint reportedly belongs
presented Universiti Sains especially during the festival to 15th-century Chinese
Malaysia Museum and Art season. About 3ft (1m) long Admiral Zheng He, who was
Gallery. Exhibits on display in maturity, they are dark locally known as Sam Poh.
highlight various aspects of green with wide yellow bands. He visited Pulau Penang
Malay, Peranakan, Sarawak, Devotees regard them as harm- during his exploration of
and Sabahan cultures. Collec- less guardian angels of the Southeast Asia, the Indian
tions of textiles, traditional temple. Although rarely fatal, Ocean, and the Red Sea.
jewelry, musical instruments, the bite of the vipers is painful. The footprint is said to
and keris, or Malay daggers, Fortunately, they are sluggish mark the spot where he first
are also exhibited. A section during the day, perhaps dulled stepped ashore. The rock
of the museum is devoted by the incense smoke, but are is enshrined in the temple,
entirely to ethnography and active at night, when they which is surrounded by lush,
the performing arts. The art descend from their perches in well-maintained gardens close
gallery displays both contem- the eaves to consume offerings to the shore, overlooking the
porary Malaysian paintings left by the pious. harbor and the jetty.
and items from the universitys
i
fine arts collection.
Snake Temple d
Bayan Lepas, 7 miles (12 km) S of
Georgetown. @ 66 from Komtar in
Georgetown. # 7am7pm daily.
_ anniversary of the birth of Chor
Soo Kong, 6th day of First Lunar
month (Jan/Feb).
Named Ban Kah Lan,

meaning the temple of the
azure clouds in the Hokkien
dialect, this highly unusual
temple was built in 1850 by A Buddhist monk praying at the Snake Temple
with a stone roof supported massive forest-clad limestone

by pillars. The candii per- outcrop that is a part of the
formed the function of Titiwangsa Mountain Range
temples for Hindu or Buddhist is clearly visible from the sea.
religious activities, and hon- It adds a touch of variety to
ored the deceased rulers and the scenic flat plains visible
members of the royal family. throughout the area. In the
The museum preserves, past, it acted as a navigation
chronicles, and explains the point for sailors from southern
various excavations as well as India, and was considered
displays collections of artifacts sacred by the Hindu kingdom
discovered at the site. These of Bujang. It marked the start
include Chinese porcelain, of a cross-peninsula portage
Shiva lingas, statues of the route between
t the Indian
Hindu god Ganesh an cean and the South
dess Durga, terra-cotta China Sea that avoided
statues, and a bronze the long voyage
Archaeological remnants, main Buddhist image around the Strait of
temple Candi Bukit Batu Pahat discovered here in Malacca. Today, the
1976. It is possible peak is visited for
Lembah Bujang g to see the its pristine splendor
excavated sites and panoramic view
16 miles (26 km) NW of Sungai through privately of rhododendron
Petani. @ 8 www.mykedah.com arranged guided Fragment of a stone and pine-covered
tours from the lintel at Lembah Bujang forests. On the
Peninsular Malaysias most museum. The neigh- summit is a dila-
important archaeological site, boring waterfall is also a pidated 6th-century Hindu
the Hindu-Buddhist remains favorite picnic spot. At some shrine and bath called Candi
at Lembah Bujang, or Bujang point in the future, the whole Telaga Sembilan, or nine
valley, reveal significant area is scheduled to become pool temple, which was
aspects of a major pre-Islamic an archaeological park. discovered in 1884.
civilization. First excavated by Another attraction on the
the British archaeologist H.G. E Lembah Bujang mountain is the Muzium
Quaritch-Wales in 1936, this Archaeological Museum Perhutanan, or Forestry
archaeological site stretches Jalan Tanjung Dawai, Merbok. Museum, which is saturated
Tell (04) 457-2005. # daily.
over a vast 87-sq mile (225- with delicious balsamic fra-
noon2:45pm Fri (for prayers).
sq km) area extending from 8 www.jmm.gov.my
grances from various types
Gunung Jerai to Kuala Muda. of coniferous and oak trees.
Bujang, which derives its Run by the Malaysian Forestry
R
name from a legendary winged Commission, the museum has
dragon, was a notable king- Gunung Jerai h exhibits on trees of the sur-
dom and port in the 5th rounding Sungai Teroi Forest
century AD. It had trade 19 miles (30 km) N of Sungai Petani. Recreation Park, which houses
relations with India, Srivijaya @ # daily. 8 0 rare orchids and wildlife.
(on Sumatra), and Cambodia,
E Forestry Museum
and was visited by the Rising sharply out of the Gunung Jerai. # 9am3pm daily.
Chinese Buddhist monk I- surrounding Kedah plains is
Ching in AD 672. In the 7th the imposing 3,993-ft (1,217- O Sungai Teroi Forest
century, it was absorbed into m) Gunung Jerai. Formerly Recreation Park
Gunung Jerai. & 8 compulsory.
the Srivijaya Empire, and known as Kedah Peak, this
reached its zenith between
the 9th and 10th centuries,
before Islam gained a foot-
hold on the peninsula.
Over 50 sites have been
excavated in the valley.
Among the finds, the most
impressive are the candi, or
two tomb-temples, which
have been transported and
reassembled at the Lembah
Bujang Archaeological
Museum in nearby Merbok.
The 7th-century Candi Bukit
Batu Pahat has a vimana,
or inner sanctuary, with
images of Hindu deities, and
a mandapa, or open hall, Misty view above the treetops at Gunung Jerai
Kuala Kedah k
7 miles (12 km) W of Alor Star.
* 220,000. @ g
As Kuala means river mouth

in Malay, Kuala Kedah is an
aptly named fishing port that
is located at the northern
bank of its namesake river.
This small town serves as the
convenient southern ferry
point for travelers sailing
to Pulau Langkawi. The
crowning glory of the town
The elegant Masjid Zahir, or state mosque, in Alor Star is Kota Kuala Kedah, a fort
dating to the mid-18th century
Alor Star j Siamese connections is standing on the right bank of
Wat Syam Nikrodharam, a Sungai Kedah. The structure
59 miles (95 km) N of Georgetown. Theravada Buddhist temple was originally built to protect
* 205,000. ~ n 179B Kompleks which was built in the unmis- the kingdom against naval
Alor Star, Lebuhraya Darul Aman, (04) takable Thai style, located at attacks by Siam (Thailand).
730-1322. www.tourism.gov.my Kampung Telok Sena. Today, However, the Thais invaded
the citys considerably vast and captured the fort in the
Kedahs state capital, Alor Chinese Buddhist population early 19th century. The town
Star, is mainly a transit point worships here. is guarded by thick walls and
to Thailand and a junction for U Masjid Zahir
a moat, and comprises a num-
the road west to Kuala Kedah, Jalan Sultan Muhamad Jiwa. ber of buildings including the
the ferry port for Pulau # daily. noon3pm Fri Royal Audience Hall. Six of
Langkawi. However, it also (for prayers). the 19th-century British
has several attractions. Among E State Museum
cannons are on display, rest-
these is the padang, a lovely Lebuhraya Darul Aman. ing on the crumbling walls,
old colonial town square Tell (04) 733-1162. # SatThu. facing the river estuary.
surrounded by a number of noon3pm Fri (for prayers). Today, Kuala Kedah is famous
royal and religious buildings. for the variety of delectable
E Royal Museum
Among these is the Balai seafood, especially laksa,
Besar, or the royal audience Next to Balai Besar. Tell (04) 732- served at the numerous
hall, which stands on tall 7937. # daily noon3pm Fri eateries that have cropped up
(for prayers).
pillars embellished with at this ancient historic site.
Victorian iron lacework. The
unique Balai Nobat, or drum
hall, is an eight-sided tower ORANG SYAM Y
topped by an onion-shaped Malaysians of Thai ethnic origin, known in Malay as Orang
dome. The building houses Syam, have lived in northern Malaysia for centuries. When
the Kedah Royal Orchestra. and how they came to settle in this predominantly Malay-
Masjid Zahir, or state mosque, speaking region remains unclear. Their dialect suggests that
incorporates elegant Moorish their roots go back at least four centuries to the Narathiwat
designs in its five black province which neighbors Thailand. The Orang Syam m are
domes and slender minarets. recognized as bumiputras, or indigenous Malaysians, having
Also by the padang are two the same rights and status as
municipal buildings that are Muslim Malays. They settled
open to the public. These are primarily in prosperous kampung
the Balai Seni Lukis Negeri, syams, or Siamese villages in
or state art gallery, which Kedah, Kelantan, Perak, Penang,
exhibits modern Malaysian and Perlis, dwelling harmoniously
art, and the Muzium Di Raja, with their Muslim neighbors. One
or Royal Museum, featuring easy way to identify a kampung
royal paraphernalia. syamm is the presence of elaborately
More interesting is the sited Buddhist temples. They have
Muzium Negeri, or the State quintessentially Thai curved roofs,
Museum, located a mile (2 lavishly gilded pagodas, tinkling
km) north of the Padang. wind-chimes, and edifices of
It displays exhibits dating the Buddha in various postures.
back to the 19th century The five-centuries old temple at
when Kedah was a tributary Kampung Jubakar claims to have
of neighboring Siam (now the largest Seated Buddha image Orang Syam people
known as Thailand). Another in Southeast Asia. working in the fields
reminder of the states
Pulau Langkawi l
Set in the heart of an archipelago of some 100 islands

and islets in the Andaman Sea, Pulau Langkawi is one of
Malaysias most popular destinations. Fringed with sandy
beaches and for
the most beautif
offer soothing r
ties, such as wat
adventurous vis
is a good jumpi
Telega Tujuh Fa
Literally meaning
Tujuh is a cascad
ideal site for bath
FMBHB
HB
1BSL
SL
L b
SJBOH b 5FS
E
BU
BM
U
b b
6 FSX XB
8PSME
THE LEGEND J
Tasik Dayang B
a freshwater lak
forests of Pulau
in the archipela
of Princess Mah
claimed she bec
pregnant by dri
the lake. She w
falsely accused
and executed. T STAR SIGHTS
endary crocodile which . Pantai Cenang
inhabits the lake is said to
be Mahsuris child. Local . Gunung Raya
women still come here to
pray for children. A boat on Tasik Dayang Bunting . Tomb of Mahsuri
P U L A U L A N G K AW I 113
e Langkawi Birds VISITORS CHECKLIST

aradise 19 miles (30 km) W of Kuala
cated at Belanga Perlis. *120,000. k g
ecah, this lush tropical
o n Jalan Persian Putra, Kuah;
arden is home to at (04) 966-7789. www.langkawi-
online.com
b
,
,P
OH#
TJB
Q b
b
I b
J
b
C
J
O
J
%
1&/"
"
Princess Mahsuri
Cable car
who was exe-
cuted at this spot Beach
after being Visitor information
unjustly accused
Peak
of adultery.
Exploring Pulau Langkawi of adultery and sentenced to

death. Mahsuri was stabbed
The largest among a cluster of tropical islands, Pulau by the executioner with her
Langkawi is a mountainous, palm-fringed island own keris. Her blood flowed
peppered with paddy fields and sandy coves. In 1986, white as an indication of her
Pulau Langkawi was transformed from an isolated, purity, and with her dying
overwhelmingly Malay rural area, into a duty-free breath she cursed the island
zone in a successful attempt to make it a holiday to seven generations of bad
luck. A tomb of fine marble
destination, wooing backpackers and upmarket visi- was built on the spot where
tors alike. Access to the archipelago by air and ferry she was killed. Today, this is
has never been easier, and Langkawis excellent road honored as a shrine by the
network makes exploring the island convenient. Once- islanders. Every day a cultural
sleepy Kuah, Langkawis capital, now boasts a slew of show depicting the legend is
shopping centers, supermarkets, resorts, and luxury staged at the tomb, along
hotels catering to rising tourist demands. with displays of traditional
dancing and Malay silat, or
martial arts.
} Langkawi Rain Forest

Canopy Adventure
9 miles (15 km) NW of Kuah.
@0-
One of Malaysias most
exhilarating outdoor activities,
the Langkawi Rain Forest
Canopy Adventure allows
visitors to pass high above
the rain forest floor on the
Gunung Raya mountainside.
This adrenalin-charged
experience features a 492-ft
(150-m) slide along metal
Main street in Kuah lined with shops and cafs cables and a 98-ft (30-m)
vertical rappel. It is both
Kuah money, and rent vehicles for exciting and safe as it is
SE Pulau Langkawi. * 94,000. sightseeing. It also has a vib- operated by skilled profes-
@ g n Jalan Persiaran Putra, (04) rant pasar malam, or night sionals and pre-activity
966-7789. ( Wed & Sat. Langkawi market. For those arriving by training is provided on site.
History Garden Jalan Persiaran sea, Kuah is a useful transit
Putra, near Kuah Jetty. Tel (04) 966- point to Kuala Perlis, Kuala } Pantai Cenang
4223. # 8am11pm daily. & Kedah, and Penang. 10 miles (16 km) W of Kuah.
Skirting a large bay on the @ g 0 - = Underwater
southeastern tip of the island, P Tomb of Mahsuri World Tel (04) 955-6100.
Kuah is Langkawis main 7 miles (12 km) W of Kuah. # 10am6pm daily. &
town. Originally a small # tomb: 7:30am6pm daily; A sweep of dazzling white
fishing village, Kuah is under- show: 11am. & sand, Pantai Cenang is the
going rapid development as Dedicated to the memory of most popular and developed
a result of the islands a Malay princess, the tomb beach on Pulau Langkawi.
growing tourism industry. of Mahsuri is a simple white Fortunately, largely due to a
The most distinguished structure. According to legend, local government prohibition
building in town is the Friday Mahsuri was unjustly accused on building anything higher
Congregational Mosque,
Masjid al-Hana, located next
to the tourist office. Built in
1959, the mosque incorporates
Uzbek and Moorish elements
along with traditional Malay
design. The Langkawi History
Garden, a theme park by the
seafront, features sculptures
and exhibits that recount the
archipelagos history. The
garden overlooks Dataran
Lang, a landscaped square
with a prominent statue of an
eagle. Kuah is the best place
on Langkawi to shop, change Plaque narrating the story of Princess Mahsuri at the site of her death
P U L A U L A N G K AW I 115
O Pulau Payar Marine Park

20 miles (32 km) S of Langkawi.
g with prior arrangement.
An hours boat ride from
Kuah, the tropical island
of Pulau Payar is popular
with keen divers and
snorkelers. Payar and the
smaller islands of Lembu,
Segantang, and Kaca cluster
around coral reefs that teem
with marine life, such as
moray eels, large groupers,
and black-tipped reef sharks.
The Coral Garden in the
Visitors taking a closer look at marine life at Underwater World sheltered, clear waters off
Pulau Payar is enduringly
than a coconut palm, it has across the island to the sea popular and is said to have
not been overshadowed by and neighboring Thailand. the largest number of coral
high-rises. Small restaurants, At an incline of 42 degrees, species in Malaysia. Here
bars, and chalets line the with a vertical rise of 2,231 ft visitors can also feed baby
beach. At its southern end are (680 m), the ride is among sharks under the supervision
a number of entertainment the steepest in the world. of experts. To visit, it is best
projects, including the vast There are two stops, Middle to book a day in advance
Underwater World. This spec- and Top stations, where visi- with a tour group.
tacular aquarium is among the tors can alight. The rocks here
largest in Malaysia, with over are some of Malaysias oldest } Pulau Dayang Bunting
5,000 marine species on at 450 million years. The area 3 miles (5 km) S of Kuah.
display. The aquarium also is now a UNESCO Geopark. g0-
boasts a walkthrough tunnel Lying across the Kuah Straits,
and 3D cinema. Nearby, } Teluk Datai Dayang Bunting is the second
Pantai Tengah beach is a 22 miles (35 km) NW of Kuah. largest island in the Langkawi
southward continuation 0 - Ibrahim Hussein Museum archipelago. Covered with
of Cenang. With several Pasir Tengkorak. Tel (04) 959-4669. rain forest and mangroves, the
restaurants to choose from, # daily. & Kompleks Budaya island boasts over 90 species
Tengah is a great place for Kraf Teluk Yu. Tel (04) 959-1913. of birds, including hornbills,
a quiet evening meal accom- # daily. = kingfishers, and woodpeckers.
panied only by the sound Well off the beaten track, Teluk
W The highlight here is the
of waves gently crashing Datai on the islands north freshwater Tasik Dayang
on the shore. coast offers the most stun- Bunting, or lake of the preg-
ning vistas on the island, nant maiden, surrounded by
} Telaga Tujuh Falls with several beautiful limestone cliffs and dense
14 miles (22 km) W of beaches scattered forests. A legend holds that
Kuah. Langkawi Cable along the shore. The the waters of the lake bestow
Car # 10am7pm lovely bay is home fertility, and local women
daily. & Basketwork at to exclusive resorts come to the lake to pray for
Set in an attractive Kompleks Budaya Kraf and a golf course. children. Visitors can swim in
spot on the west Among the many the lake, explore it by pedalo,
coast of Langkawi, Telaga nearby attractions is the or simply picnic by its shores.
Tujuh or seven wells, is ideal Ibrahim Hussein Museum,
for freshwater bathing and housed in a modern, light-
picnics. Located west of filled building perched on a
Pantai Kok, it is a 30-minute cliff. Part of a non-profit cul-
walk to the seven waterfalls, tural organization, the museum
which are joined by smooth, exhibits works by, among
slippery stone sills that bathers others, Ibrahim Hussein, one
can slide down. Legend has of Malaysias best-known
it that fairies bathe at these artists. Farther along the coast,
wells when humans are not the Kompleks Budaya Kraf, or
present, which may account craft cultural complex, show-
for the pleasantly sweet per- cases Malay handicrafts, such
fume that suffuses the air. as batik, ikat, pottery, paint-
In the vicinity is the ings, and woodcarvings.
Langkawi Cable Car, which On the way to Teluk Datai is
carries passengers over ancient the Langkawi Crocodile Farm.
rain forests to the summit of The reptiles can be viewed
Gunung Machincang, at 2,315 during their hourly feedings Boats anchored in the waters off
ft (706 m), for fabulous views and daily shows. Pulau Dayang Bunting
SOUTHERN PENINSULA
T
he southern tip of Peninsular Malaysia is also the southernmost
extremity of continental Asia, encompassing the countrys largest
state, Johor, and the often overlooked state of Negeri Sembilan,
stronghold of the Minangkabau culture. Cosmopolitan Malacca, the
capital of the historically significant state of the same name, is on every
tourists itinerary, while on the east coast, the sandy beaches and colorful
reefs of Pulau Tioman are a magnet for visitors from around the world.
With only the narrow Strait captured the city in 1511. They were
of Malacca dividing this followed by Dutch and then British
side of Malaysia from Sumatra, colonists, alongside Chinese and
there have always been close Indian ethnic groups who
relations between the two intermarried with Malays to
cultures. Negeri Sembilan was create the distinct Baba-Nonya
settled by the Minangkabau and Chitt y comm unities.
people from Sumatra in the 15th Malacca is famous today for
century and their unique style of its colonial architecture and an
architecture, with upswept roofs eclectic cuisine that draws on its
imitating buffalo horns, is still seen multicultural influences.
across the state. After the fall of Malacca to the
Malacca, too, was founded by an Portuguese, Johor became the most
exiled Sumatran prince who intro- powerful state on the peninsula.
duced Islam to the peninsula in the Facing threats from the Minangkabau,
15th century. The citys strategic Johor was forced to cede Singapore
location on the busy trade routes to Sir Stamford Raffles in 1819.
between China and India made it Today, the hectic state capital, Johor
phenomenally wealthy, as everything Bahru, is Malaysias second-largest
from tea, silks, and spices to gold, city, but the islands of the Seribuat
opium, and slaves was bought and Archipelago hold more appeal,
sold here. Such riches attracted the offering some of the very best diving
attention of the Portuguese who and snorkeling in the country.
Colorful trishaws decorated with flowers outside Christ Church, Malacca
Volcanic peaks rising above the lush forested landscape on Pulau Tioman
Exploring the
Southern Peninsula
Bounded on the west by one of the worlds busiest shipping
lanes, the Strait of Malacca, on the east by the open South
China Sea, and on the south by the island city-state of
Singapore, the Southern Peninsula offers everything from
bustling cities to great tracts of jungle, lazy seaside resorts,
and desertr ed is
home to some
cuisine, and ea
palace, Istana L
Minangkabau c
Seremban, the
Sembilan, mak
exploring the statee ain
attractions are its beach
b r . T
the beautiful islands off ththe
h S
Archipelago off the east coa
,V
, V QV
VS BE OH
BEP H
SIGHTS AT A N H
, 1FS BNB
NB "Z
"ZF
ZFS)JUB N
Towns
Desaru Beach 8
U #BIBV
#BIBV
Johor Bahru 7 . UJO
Kuala Pilah 3
43* 1*-")
)
Kukup 6 44& "/
/ .&/" 5
Malacca pp1227
Mersing 9
%
Muar 5 VBI
BI
I " ,!
(FN
FNBT
FNB
NB VMP
,BTB
,BT
Seremban 1 BCJ
Sri Menanti 2 1FO
FO
, 4FHBN
BN
N
Islands O BI
Pulau Tioman pp1 TJO
JO
O
Seribuat Archipela -!
- ! !#
!##!
##!
!
5BOHL HB
B
a
R
J UA
-
"$
$$"
$$$ 1BHPI
PI
I
,F
,FT
,F

1BS + B
NB
BSB
BI
The colorful faade of Christ Church, Malacca

S O U T H E R N P E N I N S U L A 119
KEY
Highway
Major road
Minor road
Railroad
L
N V
J
V
H
ONG

-BCJ ( J
G
1
(/
/2
NBMVB
H
J
5BOKV
5
N

H 'U
'UN
3FOHHBO
" ) B OH
#BU
BUV1B
BI NQBO
OH
-PN
P XBJ
4FE
4F
F
Q

FO
OHHBSBOH
H / * , 5JOH
HH -B
35
4
a
H
HJU #F
# U ) 5F
, BJ
,V FO
FOH
H
-JO O
JM 1BUB +0)03
+0
0
0)03
#"
# ")36
" )36
)3 6 J PSS
L 1FOHF
1F
FOHF
FO
F FSB
BO
,61
nail. The palace stands upon

99 pillars representing the
royal warriors, while the
faade is decorated with
elegant carvings of foliage
and animals. The royal
bedchambers and banquet
hall can be viewed inside,
along with displays of
costumes and photographs.
Balconies on the upper floors
offer panoramic views over
the neat palace gardens.
E Istana Lama
Tell (06) 497-0242. # 10am6pm
The peaceful Lake Gardens in Seremban daily. 12:152:30pm Fri.
Seremban 1 Lumpur, it is hugely popular

with locals at weekends so
42 miles (67 km) S of Kuala
Lumpur. * 700,000. KTM
the beaches can get crowded. Kuala Pilah 3
The water quality in the Strait
Komuter Seremban. @ from Kuala of Malacca is not great, but 25 miles (40 km) E of Seremban.
Lumpur and Malacca. _ Negeri theres always something going * 154,000. @ (
Sembilan Cultural Carnival (Jun). on, with several festivals and
www.tourismnegerisembilan.com sporting events taking place In the heart of Minangkabau
throughout the year. territory, Kuala Pilah is a small
The capital of Negeri Sembilan provincial center with little to
state, Seremban is a busy and E State Museum interest tourists, but it has an
largely modern town that at Cultural Handicrafts Complex, Jalan attractive collection of 1930s
first glance seems much like Sungei Ujong. Tell (09) 731-149. shophouses and a handful of
# 10am6pm daily. noon
any other provincial Malaysian 2:45pm Fri. 7 grounds only. - =
minor sights. Among the most
city. Although low on sights, interesting is the Martin Lister
Seremban is a center for the Memorial Arch located just
unique Minangkabau culture. behind the bus station. This
The most obvious expression Sri Menanti 2 grandiose classical arch,
of this is found in the local topped with a Chinese roof,
architecture, such as the State 19 miles (30 km) E of Seremban. commemorates the states first
Secretariat Building with its * 6,000. @ from Seremban. _ British Resident, Martin Lister,
striking, traditional pointed Sultans Birthday Celebrations (Jul). and dates from 1897. Nearby
roof made to resemble a pair is the blue clapboard St.
of buffalo horns. Some orig- The old royal capital of Negeri Josephs Catholic Church.
inal, relocated Minangkabau Sembilan, Sri Menanti is today The center of town hosts
buildings are on show at the little more than a rustic village. a number of temples, includ-
State Museum. These include The Old Palace, or Istana ing the multicolored Sri
the Istana Ampang Tinggi, Lama, was used as the royal Kanthaswamy Hindu Temple,
with its beautiful carvings, residence until 1931 and is a filled with ornate statues of
built for a sultans daughter fine example of Minangkabau various deities.
in the 1860s, and the less architecture. Now a museum,
ornate Rumah Negeri Sembilan. this magnificent wooden edi- Sri Kanthaswamy
Hindu Temple
The State Museum also hosts fice was completed in 1908
Jln Melang. # 6am7pm daily. 7
exhibitions of costumes, without the use of a single
musical instruments, weaponry,
and stamps.
East of the town center are
the attractively landscaped
Lake Gardens and the circular
State Mosque.
Environs
Port Dickson is a small port
town 20 miles (32 km) south-
west of Seremban. It is the
main base for the 11-mile (18-
km) beach strip running south
to Tanjung Tuan, also known
as Cape Rachado. As the
nearest beach resort to Kuala Detail of a frieze at the Sri Kanthaswamy Hindu Temple in Kuala Pilah
Minangkabau Architecture
Negeri Sembilan is a stronghold of the national symbol. These stylized horns
Minangkabau people who originally are used in traditional female headwear
came from the highlands of western and, more notably, in their houses,
Sumatra and settled here in the 15th which are supported on pillars and are
century. Their name comes from always topped with an elaborate roof
minang and kerbau, translating as with pointed, upswept gables
victorious buffalo and, according to reminiscent of a pair of horns. These
legend, derives from a war with the family homes are known as rumah
Javanese in which the final battle was gadang, or big house, and, as the
decided by a fight between two water Minangkabau are a matrilineal society,
buffalos. The Minangkabau won and belong to the women and are passed
adopted the buffalo horns as their down the female line.
The central tower once held the royal Roof tiles are
made from expensive,
records and functioned as a look-out post. and now scarce, ironwood specially
It is reached via steep wooden stairs. imported from Sarawak.
ISTANA LAMA, SRI MENANTI The palace is supported on

The Old Palace is the most impressive example 99 pillars, each hewn from a
cengall tree trunk. Many are
of Minangkabau architecture in Malaysia. Built
carv
r ed with elaborate designs.
between 1902 and 1908, it remained the royal
residence until 1931 and has
been a museum since 1992.
The dramatic upswept gables of the State Museum in

Seremban, erected in 1984, are typical of Minangkabau
architecture. Older reconstructed houses can also be seen
within the grounds.
Istana Ampang Tinggi, with

its attap (thatched) roof, was The magnificent
built for a local 19th-century gateway straddling
princess. It originally stood the main road into
near Sri Menanti but is now Sri Menanti has
at Serembans State Museum. dramatic horn-
shaped pillars.
Malacca 4 tombstones, as well as the

empty tomb of St. Francis
With its colorful, cosmopolitan heritage, the town of Xavier, the founder of the Jesuit
Malacca (also known as Melaka) is one of Malaysias order in the 16th century.
biggest tourist draws. According to legend, it was Outside the main entrance
founded by the Sumatran Prince Parameswara in 1400 is an abandoned 19th-century
lighthouse and a marble
and named by him for the local malacca tree. The city statue of St. Francis Xavier,
grew quickly and by the 15th century it was one of the erected in 1952. From here, a
richest trading empires in the East. In 1511, it fell to the path leads down to the Dutch
Portuguese, who in turn gave way to the Dutch in 1641 Cemetery at the bottom of the
and the British in 1795. The influences of all the citys hill. Only five of the 38 tombs
rulers can still be seen in its historic core around St. Pauls here belong to 17th-century
Hill. The city is known for its multicultural population, Dutchmen; the rest are 19th-
including Portuguese Eurasians and, most notably, the century British residents. Most
are in a bad state of disrepair
Baba-Nonyas who are descendants of early merchants but an information board at
from China who intermarried with local Malay women. the entrance lists the names
of those who lie here.
P Porta de Santiago
Jalan Kota.
One of four main gateways
into the Portuguese AFamosa
fortress, the Porta de Santiago
is the sole surviving remnant
of those once massive
defenses. It was built in 1512
by Alfonso de Albuquerque,
the Portuguese viceroy, and
the fortress was reused and
redeveloped by the Dutch in
the 17th century. The squat
stone archway, now standing
in isolation at the bottom of
Stadthuys, the former hub of Dutch colonial administration St. Pauls Hill, bears the coat
of arms of the Dutch East
E Stadthuys impressive colonial mansion, India Company on both sides
Town Square. Tell (06) 284-1934. which was the official resi- and there are several Dutch
# daily. 12:152:45pm Fri. & dence of Dutch and British cannons on display in front.
8 10:30am & 2:30pm Sat & Sun. colonial governors, and, until The fortress, with its 10-ft
This magnificent, sturdy old 1996, was the home of local (3-m) thick walls, was
building looming over the chief ministers. demolished by the British in
town square was built by the 1807 in case the city fell into
Dutch in the 1650s as the seat T St. Pauls Hill the hands of the French. It
of colonial administration. Occupying a commanding was only the intervention of
Today, it houses the citys site in the heart of town over- Sir Stamford Raffles (see p38),
Museum of History and looking the sea, St. Pauls Hill the founding father of
Ethnography. Nonya table- was the site of the now almost Singapore, that saved this
ware, Ming ceramics, Dutch entirely vanished Portuguese small section for posterity.
furniture, pistols, and swords AFamosa fortress. Its last
are among the exhibits, along- remnant, Porta de Santiago,
side dioramas illustrating the stands sentinel at the bottom
wedding ceremonies of local of the mount.
ethnic groups and a full-size At the summit of the hill is
replica of a traditional wooden St. Pauls Church, originally
Malay house. erected in 1521 and then
Behind the Stadthuys, and known as Nossa Senhora da
included in the same entry Annunciada, or Our Lady of
ticket, are a number of small the Annunciation. Under
museums including the Dutch rule the church was
Museum of Literature, ded- renamed St. Pauls, but was
icated to Malaysian writers, and abandoned after Christ Church
the Democratic Government was built.
Museum, hosting displays on Sadly, St. Pauls Church is
the political history of post- now a ruin, but it still holds
independence Malaysia. Also a fascinating collection of The ruins of Porta de Santiago, all
included is the Seri Melaka, an elaborate 17th-century Dutch that remains of AFamosa fortress
M A L A C C A 123
VISITORS CHECKLIST
SW Malacca. * 720,000. ~
Tampin, 24 miles (38 km) N.
@ g Dumai, Sumatra. n Jalan
Kota, (06) 281-4803.
_ Dragon Boat Festival (Jul).
www.melaka.gov.my
5 Christ Church
Town Square. Tell (06) 284-8804.
@ 17. # daily. 7 ^ 5 8:30am
English Eucharist. =
This striking, bright red church
is one of the iconic symbols
of Malacca. It was built by the
Plinth and gardens in front of the Muzium Budaya, a replica Malay palace Dutch in 1753 to celebrate the
centenary of their rule over
E Muzium Budaya scale models of other royal the city, and consecrated for
Jalan Kota. Tel (06) 282-7484. palaces from across Malaysia Anglican worship in 1838.
# daily. & free admission to and displays of costumes Built of local red laterite
the garden. and weaponry, including the stone, the building is now
At the base of St. Pauls Hill fearsome tombakk spears. painted red and the color
is the Muzium Budaya, an Upstairs is the sultans scheme continues on the
impressive re-creation of a bedchamber and another neighboring Stadthuys and
traditional Malay palace based flight of stairs leads to a small Clock Tower. A three-arched
closely on descriptions of the room housing a display of porch runs along the front of
original 15th-century Malacca keris, or traditional curved the church, while inside there
Sultanate Palace that once Malay daggers. are numerous Dutch and
stood in this area. It houses In front of the palace is the British tombstones. Look out
the Cultural Museum, which so-called Forbidden Garden, too for the gigantic ceiling
displays life-sized dioramas of a pleasant, formal space, laid beams, each cut from a single
the sultans court in session out with fountains and pools, tree trunk, the hand-carved
and the nobat, or royal and shaded by bamboo, palm pews, and the frieze of the
orchestra. Also on show are trees, and magnolia trees. Last Supper over the altar.
/ ,".16/( )
6
#
135
++- /
+-/ 56,
"
6-6
BOH,BTUVSJT /(
VTPMFVN
VN &.
+"
-" "4 +-
/
/ PPO ,"
*6
) .1
5
" 6/
&,
#"
/
(
QMF (
1"
+&
-
+& /5
+ "
/
)
#" "*
3
-"
3
/
5 ,BN
,*
+-/ # 6/ ("

+-
,MJOH.PTRVVF + - /
-&
-"
+"

/
/
-"
5
,
+"
6 B7JOB
7JOB
3*
1(
/
56
5 IJ5FN
FN ,
+-
" 6 "5
"4
/ -*
&#

/POZB
OZB
,
$ +
5,
/(
) F
&/ E (
(
/
#
)"
"
(
&4
)
/
- ( 44U'SBO
'SB JT
*
0
-"
/ "
" $ 30 "/ 9
+"
/ ,
, .
-0 "
0
,4
5"
- # ( ) . !4 / 7 . "
-
"
" &+
, / &3
4"
.
+- (
" 508/ /
/ 426"3& $ISJTU +-
" +"
-"
/
B ,0
5"
Q
&
%

4*
":
+"-"
6
2
K .
/
-"
/ ,
+"
J
0
"
5

1" 3 " .
+-/
K
Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar The main prayer hall, which

Moorthi Temple is closed to non-Muslims, is
Jalan Tukang Emas. Tell (06) 288- surrounded by Ionic columns,
3599. ironwork, and English
This unassuming structure is ceramic tiles.
the oldest surviving Hindu
temple in Malaysia. It was Cheng Hoon Teng Temple
built in 1781 on the site of the Jalan Tokong 25. Tell (06) 282-9343.
citys first Chitty, or Indian # 7am7pm daily. 7
Peranakan, settlement. www.chenghoonteng.org.my
The temple is dedicated to Also known as the temple of
the deity Vinayagar, also the green clouds and Kuan
known as Ganesh, the Yin Teng, this venerable
elephant-headed god of building is the oldest Chinese
wisdom. An image of mple in Malaysia.
Vinayagar stands on ounded in the mid- Mausoleum of Hang Kasturi on
the main altar in the 17th century and Jalan Hang Jebat
back of the temple, dedicated to Kuan
and his younger Yin, the goddess of P Jalan Hang Jebat
brother, Lord mercy, it is a superb Tamil Methodist Church 5 9:30am
Murugan, appears at example of southern Sun (English service). Jonker Walk
a side altar. The Chinese architecture, Night Market # FriSun evenings.
temple is a popular Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar and is still a vital Better known by its old name
venue for weddings. Moorthi Temple focus for the local of Jonkers Street, busy Jalan
Chinese community. Hang Jebat is the main
U Kampung Kling Mosque Taoism, Confucianism, and thoroughfare of Malaccas
Jalan Tukang Emas. Chinese Buddhism are given Chinatown. It is famous for
Tell (06) 283-7416. 7 equal status within the temple. its many antique and curio
Founded in 1748, this is one Restoration work on the shops, bars, and restaurants,
of the oldest mosques in the main complex was completed although prices here tend to
country, although the present in 2005, and its elaborate be higher than elsewhere.
buildings date largely from decorations can now be seen The street is especially lively
1872 when the old wooden to their full effect. The main on weekend evenings when
structure was replaced with hall is richly adorned with the Jonker Walk Night Market
brick in the original design. beautiful paintings and gets going. There are stalls
Like Malacca itself, the symbolic carvings, with lions, selling Chinese food, clothes,
mosque draws influences golden phoenix, and other and souvenirs, while Chinese
from other cultures and its mythical creatures gracing the opera takes place on outdoor
unique architectural features interior. There are also scenes stages. Unfortunately, rapid
are based on Sumatran, from Chinese legend and tourist-oriented development
Chinese, Malay, and European literature including a prayer has forced many traditional
styles. The peculiar pyramidal screen depicting the life of businesses out and historic
roof with its green tiling shows the Buddha, and a watercolor buildings have been demol-
a strong Hindu influence, of Lao Tzu, the Chinese ished. There are still some
while the striking pagoda-like philosopher and founder of points of interest including
Detail from an intricately carved frieze at the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple
M A L A C C A 125
P Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock

8 Heeren Street 8 Jalan Tun Tan
Cheng Lock. Tell (06) 281-1507. #
11am4pm TueSat. 8 10:30am Tue
& Thu. www.badanwarisan.org.my
Tham Siew Inn Artist Gallery
49 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock. Tel
(06) 281-2112. # TueSun. = 7
Malaqa House 70 Jalan Tun Tan
Cheng Lock. Tell (06) 281-4770.
# daily. = 7
Formerly known as Heeren
Street, and still referred to as
such by many locals, Jalan
Tun Tan Cheng Lock has
retained much more of its The decorated faade of a townhouse on Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock
original character than nearby
Jalan Hang Jebat. The long, are displays that explain the E Maritime Museum
narrow street is now lined with conservation and restoration Jalan Quayside. Tell (06) 282-6526.
shops, cafs, hotels, restaurants, processes, and document the # daily. & one ticket for both
and several art galleries. traditional techniques and museums. 7 modern building only.
The townhouses here date materials used by the artisans Royal Malaysian Navy Museum
from the 18th century, and who worked on the project. # 9am5:30pm MonThu,
the narrow faades are a result Farther along Jalan Tun Tan 9am9pm Fri.
of the tax on house widths Cheng Lock is the Baba-Nonya The Maritime Museum is
that was imposed by the Heritage Museum (see pp126 Malaccas most visually
Dutch colonial authorities at 7), a preserved townhouse arresting museum, located on
that time. To make up for this, that provides a glimpse into a board an impressive, full-scale
they also tend to have very wealthy Malaccan home. One replica of the 16th-century
deep interiors. The houses, of the streets best art galleries Portuguese galleon Flora de
with their colorful tiles, stucco is the Tham Siew Inn Artist la Mar, which sank in the
work, and painted plaster, Gallery, which displays beauti- Strait of Malacca overbur-
were once the homes of rich ful watercolors by local artist dened with looted treasure.
Baba-Nonya families and Tham Siew Inn. Another Displays recount the citys
most are still in private hands. gallery worth visiting is seafaring past from the time
A few of the historic Malaqa House, a grand Baba- of the 15th-century Malacca
buildings along this road are Nonya mansion with large Sultanate through the ensuing
in a very poor state of repair. rooms filled with Oriental Portuguese, Dutch, and British
However, one of these town- furniture, carvings, paintings, colonial periods. Exhibits
houses, known simply as and bric-a-brac. include dioramas depicting
8 Heeren Street, has been bustling dock scenes, cases
restored and now functions as E Baba-Nonya Heritage containing scale-model ships
a resource center. In the few Museum and weapons, maps, and
rooms on show here, there See pp126-7. other nautical artifacts.
A modern building next
to the galleon houses the
BETEL, THE NUT OF LOVE second part of the museums
Betel nuts, the dried seeds of the A Areca or Pinang palm tree, collection. On show here are
are prized for their mildly narcotic and supposed aphrodisiac traditional fishing boats, more
qualities. The ritual chewing of this nut was once common model ships, and displays on
across Malaysia but the practice Malaysian maritime life.
is now mainly confined to The museum ticket includes
rural areas. The nut is prepared entry into the Royal Malaysian
during court r ship rituals by com- Navy Museum on the opposite
bining it with herbs, cloves, side of the road, which has a
tobacco, and ground lime, specialist collection showing
which are then wrapped in numerous uniforms, insignia,
betel leaves. Chewing releases model ships, and photographs,
a sticky substance said to as well as a naval helicopter.
freshen the breath, relax the The collection continues in
mind, and stimulate passion. the garden outside, where the
In the past, brides would chew star exhibit, a 1960s British-
betel nut to blacken their teeth, built patrol craft, the Sri
considered an attractive sign of Terengganu, is on show. It is
status. Today, a betel-nut deco- possible to climb aboard and
Betel nuts, thought to be an ration is still presented as a gift look around the upper deck,
aphrodisiac, growing in the wild at weddings and festivals. although the vessel suffers
from a lack of maintenance.
126 M A LYA S I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Malacca: Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum

This absorbing museum is dedicated to the unique culture
of Malaccas Baba-Nonya, also known as Straits Chinese
or Peranakan, community, who were born through the
intermarriage of Chinese traders and local Malay
women. The house dates from 1896 when three older
houses were combined to create a grand home for a
wealthy Baba-Nonya family. Opulent decor with gold
leaf, mother-of-pearl, and exotic hardwoods is used
throughout the house. The eclectic design incorporates
traditional Chinese wall-hangings and woodcarvings
alongside English tilework, heavy Dutch furniture,
Hand-painted lantern, a typical
Italian marble, and colorful Baba-Nonya porcelain.
decoration in Chinese homes
Second floor
Bedroom
The four-poster bed
in the master
bedroom is decorated
with elaborate gilded
carvings of foliage
and mythological
scenes. A hidden
peephole in the
floor overlooks the
guest hall.
The atrium allows

natural light and cool
air into the house.
First floor
House no. 52
House no. 50
(entrance)
. Glass Partition
This screen allowed young unmarried House no. 48
women, hiding in the Dark Chamber,
to peer through the etched panels at
male visitors in the Guest Hall
without being seen themselves.
STAR
T EXHIBITS . Wooden Staircase
This highly ornate wooden
. Glass Partition staircase, constructed without
the use of a single nail, is
. Wooden Staircase decorated with gilded
. Ancestral Altar carvings and is the only one
of its kind in Malacca.
M A L A C C A 127
Baba-Nonya Shutters VISITORS CHECKLIST

These elegant louvered shutters,
made of overlapping movable 50 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock.
wooden slats, draw on Tel (06) 283-1273. # 10am
European design and are 12:30pm & 24:30pm daily.
a common feature of 7 ^ 7 & free for children
19th-century Baba-Nonya up to five years. 8 1:30pm
architecture. daily; reservations are
recommended.
a-Nonya Porcelain
distinctive pink and green
lain, decorated with floral
tifs and Buddhist symbols,
was made to order in China
for wealthy Baba-Nonya
customers.
MUSEUM GUIDE
After walking through the impressive Guest Hall,
continue beyond the glass partition into the living
area. Take the stairs to the master bedroom and the
funerary room on the first floor. Descend at the rear
of the building to the kitchen area and return to the
main entrance passing the ancestral altar en route.
m KEY
m
Bedroom
Kitchen
m Ancestor worship
Guest hall
Dark chamber
Funerary room
Bathroom
Exhibition space
Non-exhibition space
The kitchen is
perfectly preserved
and stocked
with traditional
objects, including a
noodle press.
. Ancestral Altar
A common feature
of Chinese homes,
this family altar
has Ming dynasty- Faade
style carvings of The faade is typical of the ornate and
dragons and bats. eclectic styles favored by the 19th-century
The bronze cherub Baba-Nonyas. It incorporates Chinese style
lamps show a with elements of European design, such as
strong European stucco pilasters, Rococo plasterwork, and
influence. louvered windows.
offshore lies Pulau Kukup, one

of the worlds largest uninhab-
ited mangrove islands. Once
the haunt of pirates, it has
been declared a national park
and wetland area of interna-
tional importance. A regular
ferry service to the island
allows visitors a glimpse of
this fascinating protected eco-
system. Its wildlife includes
wild pigs, crabs, and numer-
ous species of birds.
O Pulau Kukup
Boats moored at jetties in the old port town of Muar g from Kukup jetty. n Pulau
Kukup Johor National Park, 1319
Muar 5 Kukup 6 Mukim Air Masin, (07) 696-9355.
www.johorparks.com
28 miles (45 km) SE of Malacca. 25 miles (40 km) SW of Johor Bahru.
* 329,000. @ from Malacca * 3,000. @ from Johor Bahru to
and Kuala Lumpur. g from Dumai, Pontian Kecil, then taxi. Johor Bahru 7
Sumatra. _ Water Sports Festival n (07) 223-4935.
(Sep). www.johortourism.com.my 2 miles (3 km) N of Singapore; 124
Sitting on the southwestern miles (200 km) SE of Malacca.
The bustling riverside town of tip of Johor close to the south- * 1,065,000. k Senai. ~ @
Muar, also known as Bandar ernmost point of continental g n 2 Jalan Air Molek, (07) 223-
Maharani or Empress Town, is Asia, Kukup is a traditional 4935. _ Johor Cultural Festival (Jul).
bypassed by most tourists, but fishing village, complete with www.johortourism.com.my
its colorful history and elegant old-fashioned kampung-style
colonial architecture make it a wooden houses on stilts The capital city of Johor state,
pleasant stopover. strung along the waterfront. commonly known as JB,
The town was once a major The village is famous for sprawls across the southern
trading port, and its former its seafood, with chili crabs tip of the peninsula facing
status can be seen in the being the local specialty, and Singapore over the narrow
collection of impressive colo- the many seafront restaurants strait. Most visitors pass
nial buildings standing close do a roaring trade with week- quickly through this big
to the waterfront on Jalan end visitors, many coming traffic-clogged border town
Maharani, including the grand from Singapore. Although this after getting their passports
Royal Customs and Excise one-street town offers no stamped, but some sights are
Building, dating from 1909. other tourist attractions, just worth seeing. Chief among
Also here is a row of early
20th-century shophouses, and
nearby is the magnificent
Sultan Ibrahim Mosque, with
its soaring four-story minaret,
completed in 1930.
Muar is renowned as a
center of Malay culture and
the local dialect is considered
to be the purest form of
Malay in the country. The
town is ffamous for the local
ghazall music, which is sung
by a female chorus. However,
Muar is best known for its
food, in particular the popular
mee bandung Muar, a tasty
concoction of noodles, eggs,
prawns, and chili in beef
broth, and ikan asam pedas,
a sour and spicy fish dish.
There is no shortage of kedai
kopiss (coffee shops) where
these dishes can be sampled.
Muar is also, allegedly, the
only place in Malaysia where
satayy is served for breakfast. Fountain in the Royal Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque, Johor Bahru
these is the Royal Sultan Abu

Bakar Museum, housed in the
sparkling white Victorian
Istana Besar, or Great Palace,
west of the city center. Built
in 1866, it is one of the oldest
buildings in Johor Bahru and
is set in extensive landscaped
grounds overlooking the Strait
of Singapore. The palace is
now a museum devoted to
the royal family and is still
used for occasional official
ceremonies. Photographs,
costumes, weapons, and
other royal mementos are on
show in the lavishly furnished
rooms, such as the Hunting
Room featuring stuffed tigers,
elephant-foot umbrella stands,
and suchlike.
Also of interest nearby is
the Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque,
an Anglo-Malay edifice that
was erected in 1893 and can
hold up to 2,000 worshipers.
The Sultan Ibrahim Building
with its 210-ft (64-m) high
Mughal-style tower dominates
the skyline. During World War
II, it was used by the Luxurious swimming pool at one of Desaru Beachs hotel resorts
Japanese but today houses
state government offices. chartering a private boat, but
Mersing 9 they are among the most
E Royal Sultan Abu Bakar beautiful islands in Malaysia.
124 miles (200 km) N of Johor Just a handful of the islands
Museum
Jalan Ibrahim. Tell (07) 223-0222. Bahru. * 68,000. g to Pulau are big enough to support
# 8am5pm SatThu daily. & US$ Tioman. n Jalan Abu Bakar, (07) tiny villages and some seclud-
for foreigners. 7 limited. 799-5212. www.mersing.com.my ed beach resorts, which range
from simple beach huts to
This fishing town is the main smart hotels with restaurants
Desaru Beach 8 access point for Pulau Tioman and swimming pools. The
(see pp13031) and the islands larger and more developed
55 miles (88 km) E of Johor Bahru. of the Seribuat Archipelago. islands are Pulau Besar, Sibu,
@ from Johor Bahru to Kota Tinggi, Many people opt to spend a and Tinggi, renowned for
then taxi. g from Singapore to night here en route but there their fine sandy beaches and
Tanjung Belungkor, then bus. is little inducement to linger. excellent snorkeling and div-
www.desaru.com.my Mersing is known for its ing opportunities among the
kerepokk (fish crackers) and abundant coral reefs. Smaller
The seaside resort of Desaru these are sold all around islands provide a more sedate
boasts over 15 miles (25 km) the town center. experience, such as Pulau
of fine, white sandy beaches Rawa, which has just one
fringed with casuarinas, and resort. The remote islands,
is particularly popular with Seribuat including Pulau Pemanggil,
weekend trippers from nearby Archipelago 0 Dayang, and Aur, have only
Singapore. Most visitors come basic facilities, but are rich in
on package deals and the 59 miles (95 km) S of Kuantan. marine life and popular with
beach is dominated by hotel g from Mersing; each of the private more intrepid divers.
and restaurant developments. resorts runs a ferry service for guests. Tour operators in Mersing
Sunbathing, swimming, and run island-hopping trips
snorkeling are the main stopping off at a few of the
activities here, and the sea is Off the east coast of Johor lies islands, but otherwise access is
clean and shallow close to the Seribuat Archipelago, restricted to guests at the
shore. There is also an onsite made up of 64 volcanic private resorts. Ferries to Pulau
golf course and horse-riding, islands, the largest being Sibu depart from Tanjung
while fishing and jungle- Pulau Tioman (see pp13031). Leman, 37 miles (60 km) south
trekking are other possibilities Most are tiny and uninhabited of Mersing, and take about an
for active vacationers. and can only be reached by hour to reach the island.
Pulau Tioman q
The largest of Malaysias east coast islands, Tioman is
famed for its soft, sandy beaches, warm waters, and coral
reef. Its past is shrouded in myth it is said that a dragon
princess stopped here to break a long journey. She loved
it so much that she stayed and her body was transformed
into Pulau Tioman. Most of the resorts are strung out
on isolated bays along the western coast. Diving and snor-
keling opportunities in the protected marine park are
superb, but jungle hiking and sunbathing are also popular
activities. The island is a haven for wildlife more than . Snorkeling
140 different bird species live here. Monitor lizards, Easy to arrange either alone
snakes, monkeys, and porcupines thrive in the jungle i d i
interior thanks to the
the sea teems with c
b
J J
b
b
N
TP
QB

b

Twin Peaks
The twin peaks of Bu
Semukut are often sh
mist. Legend has it they are the
horns of the dragon princess.
VB
b
. Asah Waterfall
A short walk from Ka
Asah is this picturesque
waterfall, which was once
used as a backdrop in the
1958 film South Pacific.
Juara
The only large resort on the east
coast, secluded Juara is located in a
beautiful curving bay. It has the
finest white-sand beach on Tioman
but the sea can be rough.
VISITORS CHECKLIST
19 miles (30 km) NE of Mersing.
k g from Mersing.
n Mersing Tourist Information
Center, Jalan Abu Bakar, (07)
799-5212. 0 - = Note
water taxis and round-island
boat trips are available.
www.tioman.com.my
. Tekek-Juara Hiking Trail

This sometimes challenging 5-mile (8-km) trail
cuts across the island through jungle that is full

T
Tulai has reefs
re popular with
snorkelers and divers.
J b J
CB b
"JS #BUBOH b
L
aJ
resort, Salang has a

y beach and shallow waters. There
of budget accommodations and
bars providing low-key nightlife.
a
J Batang
Popularly known as
ABC,
C this lively resort is
a favorite backpacker
gout, although better
ches can be
found elsewhere.
Ferry route
Peak
STAR SIGHTS
Coral Reef
. Snorkeling With more than 180
coral species, Tiomans
. Asah Waterfall waters offer some of
. Tekek-Juara Hiking Trail the most rewardrding
diving in Malaysia.
EASTERN AND CENTRAL

PENINSULA
T
he Eastern and Central Peninsula is blessed with some of the
most beautiful natural features in Malaysia. Rising in the west
are the lush forested Titiwangsa mountains, to the east of which
lie Kelantan, Pahang, and Terengganu. Dominated by a vast rainforest
and flanked by an unbroken coastline with delightful beaches and
islands, the region is considered the heartland of Muslim Malay culture.
The three states of this region 19th century, which attracted Asian
share a similar early history, immigrants, they retained a rural
having been vassals of Siam and predominantly Malay
(now Thailand) and under the character. These states are still
rule of the Sultanate of Malacca considered the conservative
in the 14th and 15th centuries. Malay Muslim heartland of
Thereafter, Pahang was ruled by the the country. The interior
Sultans of Johor until the British took regions are inhabited by
control and made it one of the Orang Asli and Orang Syam people.
Federated Malay States. Terengganu The east coast possesses a rural
and Kelantan continued to be under tranquility and offers spectacular
Siamese rule through the 19th natural scenery. Pahang is home to
century. In 1909, they became part of Taman Negara, the countrys premier
the Unfederated Malay States. In national park, as well as a host of
1963, all three states were incorporated offshore islands and some of
into the Federation of Malaysia. Malaysias best beaches. While the
Physically cut off from the west towns and villages of Terengganu are
coast by the jungle interior, and free centers for Malay handicrafts, those
from British control until the 19th of Kelantan are the best places to see
century, the eastern and central states traditional activities, such as fishing.
developed at a different pace, Trips along the east coast may become
commercially and culturally. Separated difficult during the rainy season,
from the tin and rubber boom of the between November and March.
The colorful fishing boats on Sabak Beach, Kelantan
The unbroken coastline of the beach at Perhentian Besar, the largest of the Perhentian Islands
K
a
a
P
Exploring the Eastern ."$)*.."3".

."$)*
."$)*..
."$
"$)* ."3"
" ".
I
and Central Peninsula
This region offers spectacular natural beauty with 1)05)*7*)"

)0
0 "
UBS
B I
the magnicent Taman Negara and Endau-Ro
national parks located in its forested interiorss an BOH
+FM
+FMJ
an endless coastline of white sand beaches and n s
#B
ning offshore islands. Pulau Redang, Pulau Tenggo go
and the Perhentian Islands are home to a fascinating atingg
atin ,VBMB
BMB
MB
underwater world and offer some of Malaysias ass top
to SBJ
BJJ
diving and snorkeling. While Kuantan, the capital tal
of Pahang, is a transport hub for the region and d
used mostly as a transit point, especially for neae
beaches and the picturesque Tasik Chini, the
NUNG#AM
other state capitals, Kuala Terengganu and Kot FT

Bharu, are rich in Malay culture.
NS

K LANT N
A
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE 5)&+6 -
5)&+6/(- F
Islands and Beaches
-O
Towns and Cities
Cherating 5 Pantai Dasar Sabak y
Kota Bharu pp1467 r Perhentian Islands e
G A
(V
V OH
H
Kuala Terengganu q Pulau Kapas 9
Kuantan 1 Pulau Redang w
'U UN AN
Pekan 4 Pulau Tenggol 8 . Q
QP FT
Tumpat t
4IT
Tour $FHBS1
FH 1F I
Parks and Preserves The Jungle Railway
Endau-Rompin National p149 o
Park 6 *
LA
I
Taman Negara pp1389 7
VB B -JQ
QJT
Q JT
Places of Worship
Wat Machimmaram i #F ,V
,
F JOH
Wat Phothivihan u
Areas of Natural Beauty

Gua Charas 2
Tasik Chini 3
Tasik Kenyir 0 0 km 25
C
0 miles 2
OUP
BL
L
VBMB
B
NQVS
Fishermen and women drying their catch by the sea in Kuantan

E A S T E R N A N D C E N T R A L P E N I N S U L A 135
GETTING AROUND
Kuantan, Kuala Terengganu, and Kota Bharu are
+F served by domestic airports. Route 3, a major
< national road, runs the length of the three states,
J
a good bus network serves the region. While
FI
I tion of the major roads is good and traffic
,V
lity of the minor roads that branch
N
BKB nds to deteriorate, necessitating
to visit the national
ilroad is a pleasant
1
1FOBSFL
travel option. Regular ferries connect the mainland
1B LBS
J
.
U AW T 4F
,FSVBL
0U
MUR -
,6"
6"-"
"
3& (("
"/

J
O
+FS
+FSB V
TE ENG U%
J

1B
/& O
"/
" ,
H
IN
BEL
"JS
"J F
,
P H G
1VUJI
I
$
$V
$FOF mbing a tree in

(6"$ "
"3"
"4
4VOH J OH #F
F
a
,V
,VB BV ,6
,6
O
A
+
BSB
BS
der

1&
FS POH 4*,$
,$ */

5B
K "VS
VS .VBE[BN
I
pp28081
,PUB#BIBH
UB#BIBH
I 45
OM
P
&/%"630. 5BO
5B
"-1"3
"-
-1"3,
,

and to several bodhisattvas.

There is always a monk in
residence at the temple
who occasionally shows
visitors around.
Tasik Chini 3
85 miles (138 km) SW of Kuantan
on Federal Hwy 82. @ to Felda
Chini 3.1 miles (5 km) S of Tasik
Chini, then taxi; to Maran, then taxi
to Kampung Belimbing, then boat.
Ferries docked in Kuantan, capital of Pahang 8 treks organized by Lake Chini
Resort and Kampung Gumum.
Kuantan 1 popular handicraft center
specializing in batik. Besides Nestled in the hills, deep in
160 miles (259 km) E of Kuala an array of watersports, there Malaysias forested interior,
Lumpur. * 315,000. ~ @ g are several walking trails, all Tasik Chini is a collection of
n Jalan Makhota, (09) 517-8113. leading south to the headland beautiful lakes connected by
www.pahangtourism.com.my of Tanjung Tembeling. waterways teeming with fish
and birds and framed by giant
The capital of Pahang, Kuantan trees. The best time to visit is
is a commercial town and a Gua Charas 2 between June and September
major transport hub, located at when the lakes are covered
the mouth of Sungai Kuantan. 15 miles (25 km) NW of Kuantan. with red and white lotus
The town has a few sites of @ from Kuantan. blooms. Around the shores
interest and is visited mostly live the indigenous Jakun
by travelers en route to the Near the small settlement people, belonging to the
attractive beaches and river- of Panching, a short distance Orang Asli community.
side villages nearby. from Kuantan, Gua Charas is Kampung Gumum is a small
Overlooking the padang at a series of deep ca tlement at the
the heart of town is the stun- dramatically in a m n end of the
ning Moorish-style Masjid sive limestone kars s, where friendly
Negeri, or state mosque. It outcrop. In 1954, t s show visitors
is crowned with a blue and Sultan of Pahang nd their homes
white dome and is surroun- granted permission display their
ded by four Ottoman-style to a Thai Buddhist ditional handi-
minarets. It also features monk to convert th s. At the village,
stained-glass windows, a rare main cave into a modation is
feature in Malaysian Islamic Buddhist shrine. A at Tasik Chini also available offering
architecture. The mosque steep ascent up 200 an alternative to the
is illuminated every night, steps leads to the enormous resort at the edge of the
lending it a magical quality. cave, which contains several main lake. Although public
The town also has several religious images carved out transport to the lakes is not
streets of old Chinese shop- of stone. Dominating the cave conveniently accessible, once
houses. The redeveloped is a 30-ft (9-m) long Sleeping there, the entire lake system
riverfront of Kuantan offers Buddha. Next to it are shrines can be explored by boat,
pleasant views and has shops dedicated to Kuan Y Yin, the organized by the resort and
that sell excellent local handi- Chinese goddess of mercy, the village. Several trails of
crafts. From the jetty, boat
trips take visitors to the
nearby fishing village of
Tanjung Lumpur as well as
to a mangrove forest reserve.
Environs
Just 3 miles (5 km) east of
the capital, Teluk Chempedak,
or jackfruit bay, is Kuantans
main attraction. It marks the
beginning of the splendid
beaches on the east coast and
is famous locally for its sands
and waves. The coastal strip
is dotted with hotels and
restaurants and also has a The enormous Sleeping Buddha enshrined at Gua Charas
Endau-Rompin
National Park 6
35 miles (57 km) S of Kuantan.
@ to Endau; to Kuala Rompin, then
4WD to park boundary. 4 from
Endau. n (07) 223-7471. &
8 guides mandatory. 0
Named for the two rivers that

mark its northern and south-
ern frontiers, the 336-sq mile
(870-sq km) Endau-Rompin
National Park is among the
last remaining stretches of
lowland forest in Malaysia.
It nurtures a splendid variety
Boats moored at a jetty on one of the lakes at Tasik Chini of flora and fauna and is one
of the few habitats of the
varying lengths weave through Cherating 5 Sumatran rhinoceros. The
the area. Day tours to Tasik parks varied landscape allows
Chini can be arranged from 29 miles (47 km) N of Kuantan on for a variety of activities, such
Kuantan and Cherating. Federal Hwy 3. * 2,000. as trekking, rafting, mountain
@ from Kuantan. 0 climbing, and abseiling.
At the confluence of Sungai
Pekan 4 Occupying a windswept Endau and Sungai Jasir is
bay facing the South China the base camp, Kuala Jasin,
27 miles (44 km) S of Kuantan on Sea, the palm-fringed fishing 9 miles (15 km) from the park
Federal Hwy 3. * 30,000. @ from village of Cherating is, quite headquarters. From here, a
Kuantan. simply, one of the best and 4-hour trail leads to Janing
most tranquil beaches on Barat Plateau while two other
Located on the south bank Malaysias lovely east coast. routes trace the Sungai Jasin
of Sungai Pahang, the longest Well-provided with accom- leading to the parks most
river in Malaysia, is the town modation of all types, from spectacular waterfall, Buaya
of Pekan, the former royal budget guesthouses to high- Sangkut. Visitors are also
capital of Pahang. end resorts, Cherating is an welcome at the Orang Asli
Scattered along the busy extremely popular destination. villages that dot the area.
riverfront street at the towns The waters here are ideal All visitors must carry
northern edge are many of its for surfing, especially during entry permits, which can be
attractions, including a row of November and December. obtained for free from Kuala
beautiful Chinese shophouses It is also an excellent base Rompin or the park head-
and the Sultan Abu Bakar from which to explore the quarters, or for a fee from
Museum. The museum collec- surrounding areas of Tasik Johor Bahru. Paid daily permits
tion contains royal regalia, Chini, Gua Charas, and the are required to visit certain
weapons, instruments, and various points north of Kuala sites within the park. Although
Chinese porcelain. Nearby are Terengganu. Another area of it is possible to visit the park
two white marble mosques, interest close by is Cendor independently, complicated
the blue-domed Masjid Beach for sightings of green travel arrangements mean that
Abdullah, which dates back turtles, which come ashore it is best to visit on an orga-
to the 1920s, and the newer to lay their eggs during the nized tour. Allow a period of
Masjid Abu Bakar. Farther nesting period. three days to cover the park.
away from the river is the
royal quarter, with its lavish
Istana Abu Bakar, or royal
palace, overlooking a polo
ground. As the residence of
the royal family, the palace is
not open to the public. About
3 miles (5 km) south of the
town is a silk-weaving center
Kampung Pulau Keladi, built
in the traditional Malay style
on stilts with wooden walls.
E Sultan Abu Bakar Museum
# 9:30am5pm TueSun, 12:15
5pm Mon, 9:30am2:45pm Fri.
& donations.
The sky-blue domed Masjid Abdullah at the former royal capital of Pekan
Taman Negara 7
,&-"/5"/ 5&3&/(("/
5&3&/(("/6
3&/
3&/(
Established in 1938, Taman Negara is Malaysias oldest
and largest national park. Extending across 1,660 sq
miles (4,300 sq km) of pristine rain forest, the park
encompasses parts of three states, Paha "SFBPGNBQ
*MMVTUSBUFE
and Terengganu. A profusion of birdlife ,V
b
VBMB
1")"/(
here, along with rare animals such as th 5B
5BIBO
tiger, Sumatran rhinoceros, Malayan gau
elephant. Access to the park is spectacu
a 37-mile (60-km) boat journey along th
Tembeling, passing Orang Asli villages e
. Gunung Tahan
The 7,175-ft (2,187-m) high Gunung Taha
peak in Peninsular Malaysia. The long trek
is very demanding with the route passing r
undulal ting ridges before finally reaching
KEY
Bukit Gul
Trail
of 1,864 f
Park boundary ramic view
a Domestic airport
forest from
Q Visitor information
Campsite
Peak
STAR SIGHTS
. Gunung Tahan
. Bukit Teresek
. Canopy Walkway
VISITORS CHECKLIST
106 miles (170 km) W of
Kuantan. @ to Kuala Tembeling,
then boat to Kuala Tahan.
n Kuala Tahan, (09) 266-1122.
Permits available at Department
of Wildlife and National Parks.
www.taman-negara.com
sek
the
ukit
ddy
r an
orth
reat
alley
and
rlis.
b mestone cave, is one of the most

in the park. Guided by a rope,
w a stream through the cavern.
P K
PAR
r near park headquarters and have
posted. The two main trails in the
34-mile (55-km) trek to Gunung Tahan

le (16-km) Rentis Tenor loop trail.
heavily used trail in the park is the
b
) route to Bukit Teresek, which also
K dah. Guides are compulsory for the
ous treks.
N O
F PSU b ,V
,
the worlds longest, runs through

ed 147 ft (45 m) above the ground,
forest from a novel perspective.
spear-fishing, and any other is an excellent place for swim-

form of marine life harvesting ming, windsurfing, and sea
ensures a rewarding under- kayaking or just relaxing
water diving experience. under the palm trees. A walk-
There are at least ten dive sites ing track that cuts across the
in this group of islands, but island to its isolated eastern
most of them are deep water shore offers panoramic views.
and suitable only for divers
with prior experience.
Tasik Kenyir 0
Pulau Kapas 9 34 miles (55 km) SW of Kuala
Terengganu. from Kuala
4 miles (6 km) E of Marang. 4 from Terengganu. 8 boat tours.
Marang. 0 - =
Extending over 100 sq miles
Clear blue waters lapping the A small, beautiful island with (260 sq km) and containing
pristine shore of Pulau Tenggol
T white sand beaches and daz- around 350 small islands,
zling waters, Pulau Kapas, or Tasik Kenyir is the largest
Pulau Tenggol 8 cotton island, is a designated man-made lake in Southeast
marine park and promoted Asia. It was created by the
8 miles (13 km) E of Kuala Dungun. as a diving and snorkeling construction of a dam on
4 from Kuala Dungun. paradise. Located to the the Sungai Kenyir in 1985.
north is the much smaller Surrounded by lush tropical
Part of a group of 12 small islet of Pulau Gemia, which jungle, which is home to a
and remote islands, Pulau can only be visited by guests number of wildlife species,
Tenggol is a renowned diving of its resort. Tasik Kenyir has been devel-
destination on the east coast The best sites for snorkeling oped as an ecotourism
of Malaysia. Uninhabited until on Pulau Kapas are found destination. Today, there
the 1970s, the island was around its northern shore as are some 15 resorts around
developed into a dive site (see well as around Pulau Gemia. the lake, offering quiet and
326) and is now part of the North of Gemia, a sunken comfortable retreats. Other
Terengganu Marine Park. World War II shipwreck is options include houseboats
The blue waters around the one of the most popular sites. and floating chalets. Among
densely forested islands harbor All the resorts on Kapas can the highlights of the lake are
spectacular underwater
r cliffs, arrange diving trips. There 14 picturesque waterfalls,
boulders, and coral reefs that is also a professional scuba which cascade down into
shelter a variety of colorful diving center that offers natural pools. These can be
marine life. A ban on fishing, training programs. The island reached by boat from the
lakes main jetty. Boat trips
can also be taken to the lime-
stone Bewah Caves at the
southern end of the lake.
Fishing is a popular activity
here, as the lake teems with
an abundance of freshwater
fish. The best time to visit is
between February and June
when the water level is high.
A trained monkey selecting a ripe coconut
COCONUT-COLLECTING MONKEYS
It is common practice in Peninsular Malaysia to train
monkeys to shin up palm trees, twist off the coconuts,
and throw them to the ground where they are gathered
up by the trees owner. It has been estimated that coconut-
collecting monkeys can harvest at least five times as many
nuts per day than a human collector, chiefly due to their
speed, agility, and ease with heights. Kampung Jenang,
near Marang in Terengganu, has made a thriving business
out of this technique. A monkey training school established
almost three decades ago by Muda Mamat, a local villager,
now even tutors monkeys belonging to coconut plantation
owners from neighboring states for a steep fee. One of the 14 beautiful waterfalls
at Tasik
T Kenyir
Exquisite traditional Malay houses in the grounds of Terengganu

T State Museum Complex
Zainal Abidin, with golden traditional Malay stilt house,

Kuala domes and a single, towering contains displays of textiles,
Terengganu q minaret. A number of fasci- handicrafts, Islamic artifacts,
nating sights are within easy and a gallery dedicated to
138 miles (220 km) N of Kuantan. reach of the capital, including the states petroleum industry.
* 275,000. ~ @ 4 n Plaza the Terengganu
T State Museum Within the grounds are several
Padang Negara, (09) 617-3553. Complex, the Masjid Tengku
T traditional Malay boats and
www.tourism.terengganu.gov.my Tengah Zaharah, and the
T houses as well as a maritime
island of Pulau Duyung (see museum. The highlight of the
The state capital and the seat p143), which is host to the complex, however, is the
of the sultans of Terengganu, prestigious Monsoon Cup Istana Tengku
T Long, a wooden
Kuala Terengganu is a former yachting race. palace that dates back to 1880,
fishing village that was trans- with exhibits of royal artifacts.
formed into an affluent city E Terengganu
T State Museum
from the revenue of its South Complex U Masjid Tengku
T T
Tengah
China Sea oilfields. Losong, 2 miles (3 km) SW of Kuala Zaharah
The city remains to this day Terengganu. Tell (09) 622-1444. 3 miles (5 km) SE of Kuala
a stronghold of Malay culture, # 9am5pm SatThu. Fri. & Terengganu.
with colorful markets and Said to be one of the largest Owing to its location by the
vibrant traditional handicraft museums in Southeast Asia, water, Masjid Tengku Tengah
workshops where visitors can Kompleks Muzium Negeri Zaharah is also referred to
buy batik, brocade, songket, Terengganu, or Terengganu as the Floating Mosque. This
brassware, and basketware. State Museum Complex, sparkling white mosque is set
The busiest spot in town is consists of several buildings in a park and combines mod-
the Pasar Payang, or central sprawled across landscaped ern and traditional Moorish
market. All kinds of foods gardens. The main building, architecture. The mosque is
including fresh fish, fruit, and which is a reproduction of a closed to non-Muslims.
vegetables are available here.
It also has a number of craft
shops. South of the market
is the compact Chinatown.
Its crescent-shaped street is
lined with restored shop-
houses and restaurants, as
well as a Buddhist temple.
Just a short walk away from
the market, in the opposite
direction, is the colonial-style,
apricot-colored Istana Maziah,
which is the sultans palace. It
is closed to the public except
for some ceremonial occasions.
Nearby is the beautiful Masjid Colorful fresh vegetables at the Pasar Payang in Kuala Terengganu
T
Holidaymakers relaxing on one of the quiet, beautiful beaches of Pulau Perhentian Besar
Pulau Redang w Perhentian separated by rocky outcrops.

This sheltered spot is where
38 miles (62 km) N of Kuala Islands e green and hawksbill turtles
Terengganu. ~ from Kuala Lumpur. lay their eggs between May
g from Merang and Kuala 12 miles (20 km) NW of Kuala and September, when the
Terengganu. 0 - Terengganu. g from Kuala Besut. bay is closed to visitors.
0- Pulau Perhentian Kecil is
One of the largest and most smaller than Pulau Perhentian
beautiful of the east coast Located off the Terengganu Besar, but is otherwise an
islands, Pulau Redang is also coast, Pulau Perhentian Besar exact replica of it, with beau-
the most developed. It is set and Pulau Perhentian Kecil tiful beaches, coconut palms,
at the center of the Redang together comprise the and azure waters. A small
Archipelago, a group of nine Perhentian Islands, which village on its southeastern
islands that together constitute means stopping-place islands. coast is inhabited by people
a protected marine park. With Breathtakingly beautiful, originally from Sulawesi in
crystal clear waters and a the islands have inevitably Indonesia. The islands main
wealth of marine life sustained attracted a great deal of devel- attraction is the east-facing
by some of Malaysias best opment in recent years but Pasir Panjang, or Long Beach.
coral reefs, the island offers still retain their appeal. Both Of the two islands, the
excellent diving and snorkel- islands feature white sand more expensive accom-
ing opportunities. Sadly, silt beaches and an aquamarine modations, with quieter
and building waste have dam- sea that is home to specta- ambience, are available in
aged the coral, but active cular coral reefs teeming Perhentian Besar. Dozens of
efforts are being made to with an astounding variety resorts and guesthouses are
prevent further damage and of marine life. Besides diving clustered around the south-
even snorkeling has been and snorkeling, other activi- western shore. With the vast
restricted to certain parts of ties available on the islands abundance of cheaper hotels
the reef. The permitted areas include sailing, windsurfing, and restaurants, Perhentian
do, however, offer superb and jungle walks. Kecil attracts backpackers.
opportunities for underwater Among the beaches on The islands are usually
exploration. The waters also Pulau Perhentian Besar is packed during the peak sea-
contain the historic wrecks of the exquisite Three Coves Bay, son between late May and
two British warships, HMS a group of three beaches September, and finding accom-
Repulsee and HMS Prince of modation is difficult. It is
Wales, which were sunk off worth exploring options on
Pulau Redang by the Japanese both islands since the narrow
during World War II. strait separating them is easily
The islands beaches are set crossed by boat. Getting
against a backdrop of verdant around the islands is simple.
jungle-clad hills. Pasir Panjang There are some good walking
and Teluk Dalam Kecil, two of trails but the best way to hop
the best beaches, occupy the between beaches is by boat,
eastern coast and have most which can be arranged by
of the resorts. Kampung Air, most resort and chalet owners.
Pulau Redangs main village, Northwest of these islands
sits at the center of the island. lie the smaller, uninhabited
Most travelers visit the island Pulau Susu group covered in
on a package tour but dive virgin forests. They provide
trips can also be arranged Snorkeling in the crystal clear one of the best diving sites
from the Perhentian Islands. waters off the east coast islands in the region.
Boatbuilders of Pulau Duyung

Just off the western waterfront of passed down through many
Kuala Terengganu lies Pulau generations and it is believed that
Duyung where an ancient tradition hey are built entirely from memory.
of boatbuilding still thrives. Each boat is painted in bright
Decorated vessels, called bangau, colors and painstakingly decora-
were once made all along the ted with individual designs,
east coast, from Kota Bharu to Carved and
making them unique. The
Kuantan and beyond. Primarily painted prow island is accessible via a
used as fishing boats, these causeway from Kuala
wooden craft are constructed by Terengganu and by ferry from a jetty
master boatbuilders using techniques near the Seri Malaysia Hotel (see p279). 9
Local shipyards and

workshops are scattered
tthroughout the island
and visitors are usually
welcome to see the
boatbuilders at work.
Most of the boats are
used by local fishermen,
but their exquisite crafts-
manship has won them
international acclaim.
BOAT
A DESIGN
Most boat designs feature representational characters,
often derived from Hindu mythology. However, these
are becoming rarer as boat designers are increasingly
turning to non-representational Islamic art such as the
elaborate geometric arabesque pattern.
Stylized prows are carved and painted

to represent shadow puppets, birds, and
Garuda, a bird from Hindu mythology.
Rows of vibrant fishing boats line the beaches of Pulau

Duyung. Originally propelled by oars or sails, many of Mythical creatures, such as dragons
the boats today are fitted with removable motor engines, and demons, appear to be derived from
both for convenience as well as modernity. Hindu epics such as the Ramayana.
The boats need to be

brought ashore every
day, far away from
treacherous waves and
close to the tree line.
Therefore, they are
created with an expert
blend of functionality
and aesthetics: sturdy in
order to withstand the
strongest of storms, yet
light enough to be easily
pulled out of the water.
Traditional kite-making at Kota Bharu

Kota Bharu r impressive among all the

exhibits is the singakerti, an
Situated in the northeast corner of the peninsula, near impressive royal carriage
the mouth of Sungai Kelantan, Kota Bharu, or new fort shaped in the form of a
in Malay, is the state capital of Kelantan, and perhaps mythical beast.
the most traditional Malay and predominantly Muslim
city in the country. A modern city on the surface, Kota
Bharu is a repository of culture, crafts, and religion. It
is rich in palaces, museums, and mosques, and offers a
fine regional cuisine. Traditional skills and customs such
as kite-flying, silver-working, and weaving thrive here.
Prayer times are rigorously observed, when all activity
comes to a standstill, especially on Fridays, the Muslim
holy day. Most of the citys attractions lie in its northeast
section, at the heart of which is the Pasar Besar, one of
the most vibrant markets in the country. Kota Bharu is
also a good base to explore the surrounding region.
years. This unique Malay

palace has Thai architectural The towering State Mosque,
influences in its design. The northwest of the city center
throne room and the audience
hall are used on important U State Mosque
royal occasions and official Jalan Sultanah Zainab.
state functions. The palace is Near the palaces, which
closed to the public but visitors are clustered near Padang
can view the beautiful faade. Merdeka, the imposing State
Mosque was built in 1926
E Istana Jahar during the reign of Sultan
Jalan Hilir Kota. Tell (09) 744-4666. Ismail IV. Known locally as
# 8:30am4:45pm SatThu. & the Brick Mosque, the State
Built by Sultan Ahmad in Mosque serves as the center
1887 for his son Long for Muslim dawah, or mission-
Kundur, Istana Jahar remains ary activity in Kelantan.
Elegantly furnished dining room at an outstanding example of Visitors should dress conserva-
Istana Batu, now the Royal Museum traditional Kelantan wooden tively, ensuring that their arms
architecture, with delicately and legs are covered. Non-
E Istana Batu carved beams, panels, and Muslims are not allowed to
Jalan Hilir Kota. Tell (09) 748-7737. iron grilles. In 1991 it was enter during prayer times.
# 8:30am4:45pm SatThu. & made the Museum of Royal
The sky blue Istana Batu, or Traditions and Custom. Its E Islamic Museum
stone palace, completed in collections include textiles, Jalan Sultan. Tell (09) 744-0102.
1939 by Sultan Ismail, was brass and silverware, and arti- # 8:30am4:45pm SatThu. &
given by him as a wedding facts related to various royal Close to the State Mosque
gift to his nephew Sultan rituals and ceremonies, such is the beautiful old wooden
Y
Yahya. Once used as a guest- as weddings and births. The building of the Islamic
house for visiting royalty and Weapons Gallery displays, Museum decorated with fine
a wedding venue for the spears, old keris, and other carvings. Formerly known
sultans family, it has now weapons. Perhaps the most as the Serambi Makkah, or
been converted into the Royal
Museum. Rooms preserved
in their original state display
royal artifacts such as old
family pictures and glassware.
Istana Balai Besar

Jalan Hilir Kota. to public
Standing at the very center
of town, surrounded by a
wooden fort, Istana Balai
Besar is a traditional Kelantan
palace. Built in 1844 by Sultan
Muhammad II, it served as the
official residence of the royal
family of Kelantan for many The green and white faade of the Islamic Museum
veranda to Mecca, it E Gelanggang Seni VISITORS CHECKLIST

functioned as a religious Jalan Mahmud. Tell (09) 744-3124.
college, the first of its kind in # timings vary, call to confirm; free NE Kelantan. * 1,310,000.
Kelantan. It also symbolized shows Mon, Wed, Fri afternoons and ~ @ n Jalan Sultan
the prominence of Islam in evenings MarOct, except during the Ibrahim, (09) 748-5534. _ Kite
the state. The museum now Ramadan period. Festival (May/Jun), Drum Festival
houses a display of photo- The citys premier cultural (Jul), Sultans Birthday (Jul).
graphs and artifacts that give center, Gelanggang Seni
an account of the history of organizes cultural shows and
Islam in the state. exhibitions to showcase a wide smaller coconut drums. The
variety of traditional Kelantan center presents displays of
E World War II Memorial arts and sports, many of which gasing, the traditional game
Museum are in danger of dying out. of wooden top-spinning, and
Jalan Sultan. # 8:30am4:45pm There are free performances of kite-flying using huge Kelantan
SatThu. & silat, a Malay martial art form, moon kites called wau bulan.
Located in the old Bank and mak yongg and manohra, Spellbinding shadow-puppet
Kerapu, the World War II traditional dance-dramas plays called wayang kulitt are
Memorial Museum contains accompanied by gamelan also performed, using charac-
more than 1,000 exhibits, music. Drummers perform on ters and stories from the Hindu
pictures, and guns that docu- huge rebana drums made out epics of the Ramayana and
ment the Japanese occupation of hollowed logs, and kertok, the Mahabharata.
of Kelantan during the
Second World War. Kota
Bharu was the landing point
for the Japanese forces in
Malaysia, on December 8,
1941. During the invasion the
bank also functioned as the
headquarters of the Japanese
secret police, or kempetai.
Another display of photo-
graphs and arms dates from
the years of the Emergency,
when British and Malay troops
fought a long-running strug-
gle against the Chinese
Communist Party of Malaya
between 1948 and 1960. An
upstairs gallery describes the
history of prewar Kelantan. A traditional kite-maker surrounded by colorful kites in Kota Bharu
# " /( (
+"-"/
.&3#"
6
+ - / "5" 4
OB#
OB
/

6 -5 "
6/ 4
NJD 4 BU
FV .PT
PTRVFF

&#
*TUBOB+BI
TUB NJMF
1"%
"% "/ +-/ 1*/56 10/(
/ ,
" ( +-/ 4 3* $ & .&3-"/ (

3%
$ -" a
+"-"
, " 1"
5
*TUBOB
BO ##BMBJ
"
.
/( &
0''*$& -".
#F
FTBS 1& $)
1
0 / ( ("3 0 / (
+ " -" / 1" %0
+-/ %"5 0 1"
+-/ 5 1
+ - / % 0,5 03
-"
3" FO
+-/ ."
)PTQJUBM
+-/ $)& 4 6
D
5*
"-
+"-"/ )041*5
).00
+ "-" / 46 -5"/
8PSME8
8BS**
S
NPS
PSJBM
VTFVN
VN Q
%
+"
+-/
-"
1 #":"
+"-"/
+"-"/
.
/
(F HBOH
OH
46
4F- / # " : " .

-5
+
4 6 -5 " / " )
"
%646/
/
*#
3"
1BDJmD ,
)
.6%"
*.
;"
+-/
#
,6"-" ,&3"*
*/
1" 4 * 3
165*
"#
)".;") )
-"/ #
+"
BIZB 1FUSB #SJEHF

the buildings and grounds

are large and imposing.
The main attraction here is
a 131-ft (40-m) long phra
non, or Reclining Buddha
that was built in 1975.
Wat Phothivihan is a social,
cultural, and spiritual center
for Thai, Chinese, and Indian
worshipers. Its monks are
always eager to show vistors
around. The temples and
groves also elicit the secular
interest of Muslims who view
it as a tourist attraction.
The elaborate temple roof of Wat Phothivihan

Wat
Machimmaram i
Tumpat t seafood for cooking on the
spot. Visitors should bear in Kampung Jubakar, near Tumpat.
9 miles (15 km) NW of Kota Bharu. mind that the east coast of @ from Kota Bharu or Tumpat.
@ from Kota Bharu. Kelantan is predominantly # 7am5pm daily. _ Vesak Day
Malay Muslim, and dressing (Apr/May).
Located in a predominantly modestly is advisable.
agricultural region, the little One of the many Buddhist
town of Tumpat in Kelantan Wat temples in the Thai villages of
is a center of the Orang Syam Kelantan, Wat Machimmaram
people. It is also an important Phothivihan u is located in the village of
transport hub for southbound Kampung Jubakar on the
travelers on the Jungle Railway 2 miles (3 km) S of Chabang Empat, main road between Kota
track or northbound travelers near Tumpat. @ from Kota Bharu or Bharu and the Thai border.
to nearby Thailand. Tumpat. # 7am5pm daily. As in neighboring Thailand,
Tumpat is a good place to _ Vesak Day (Apr/May). the ketek, or temple, has
start exploring the regions familiar lotus-shaped corner
numerous Thai Buddhist tem- Within Kelantan, the lives of stones, gilded spires of vener-
ples, always a surprising and Thai Buddhists are organized able chedi, or stupas, lac-
colorful sight in the otherwise around 20 or so monasteries. quered doors, and shuttered
strictly Islamic Kelantan. One of the most interesting windows. Its most outstand-
of these, Wat Phothivihan is ing feature is a statue of the
worth visiting for its elaborate Seated Buddha, constructed
Pantai Dasar temple roof and saffron-clad by local Thai Buddhists and
Sabak y monks, both of which form said to be the largest in South-
a marked contrast to the sur- east Asia. At about 105 ft (32
8 miles (13 km) NE of Kota Bharu. rounding Muslim villages. m), the statue towers over the
@ from Kota Bharu. Built in 1973 by chief abbot surrounding Kelantan plains,
Phra Krurasapia Chakorn, the making a definite statement
To the north and east of Kota monastery attracts thousands about the presence of
Bharu are several attractive of Thai pilgrims every year. Theravada Buddhism in this
beaches overlooking the As with most Thai temples, predominantly Islamic state.
South China Sea. One of
the most easily accessible is
Pantai Dasar Sabak. Situated
near the Malay fishing village
of Sering, it is a dazzling
stretch of palm-lined beach
and has a significant history.
On December 8, 1941, the
Imperial Japanese Navy
troops landed here in one of
Japans first acts of aggression
during World War II.
It is possible to combine
an excursion to the beach
with an opportunity to watch
the return of the local fishing
fleet in the afternoon, and
perhaps to buy some fresh A golden seated Buddha and ornate pillars at Wat Machimmaram
The Jungle Railway o TIPS FOR TRAVELERS

A
One of the most delightful ways of exploring the Starting point: Tumpat, 9 miles
(15 km) from Kota Bharu.
wild interior of Peninsular Malaysia is by the
Getting there: by taxi, or by
Jungle Railway, officially called the East Coast Line. bus no. 27, 27A, and 43 from
Considered an engineering marvel when it was Central Bus Station, Kota Bharu.
completed in 1931, it created links between the east Duration: 15 hours by daytime
coast state of Kelantan with the west coast states of slow train from Tumpat to
Kedah, Perak, and Penang. This line winds its way Gemas; 10 hours by overnight
south from Kelantan through the spectacular jungle express train.
gorges of Kuala Lipis to join the main line from
Si t K l Lumpur at G

b
b
a
.B
.BT b
.F
.FSBI b
b
CPOH
CPOH
b
!.
NU
b O
b b
b
,FSBN
N VB
n

b
B
BS
0 miles b
.
.FOUBLBC b
KEY b
,
b
Minor road
lway
Railroad
" emas, a busy
b
International border )JJU n with
b
ad and rail
State border b
ala Lumpur
a Domestic airport Bahru.
Peak

b
S A R AWA
W K
T
eeming with natural wonders, including precipitous
mountains, lush rain forests, abundant wildlife, and some of
the worlds largest caves, Sarawak is nicknamed the Land of
the Hornbill. This diversity of flora and fauna, along with Sarawaks
swashbuckling history and the cultural heritage of its indigenous
people, attracts increasing numbers of visitors to the state.
Sarawaks first inhabitants were cave state is blessed with an
dwelling hunter-gatherers who lived abundance of natural
here about 40,000 years ago. resources, and petroleum
Evidence of the existence of and forestry have been the
early settlements was dis mainstay of Sarawaks econ-
covered in 1958 at Niah omy in the 20th century.
Caves in the northeast of the arawaks population of 2.2
state, testifying to Sarawaks million largely comprises the
long, although largely unwritten, indigenous people known collec-
history of human habitation. tively as Dayaks, while the remaining
Until the mid-19th century, the minority are the Orang Ulu. Most
region was governed by the Sultan of people live in the southwest of the
Brunei whose imposition of heavy province, in and around the historic
taxes led to frequent rebellions by capital of Kuching. The city is an
local indigenous groups. During one excellent base for visiting the tradi-
such outbreak in 1839, the English tional Dayak longhouses, wildlife
adventurer James Brooke entered the reserves, and national parks scattered
service of the Sultan and subdued throughout the province. The breath-
the rebels. For this, he was rewarded taking ancient limestone pinnacles at
with the title of Rajah, becoming the Mulu National Park are excellent for
first of the White Rajahs (see p157) trekking and rock climbing. These,
who ruled an area the size of Britain together with Niah Caves and Bako
as their private kingdom for over National Park one of Sarawaks old-
a century. Sarawak joined the est national parks are the highlights
Federation of Malaysia in 1963. The of a visit to the state.
Mother and baby orangutan scavenging for food at Semenggoh Nature Reserve
The Niah Caves, one of Sarawaks most spectacular attractions and home to bats and swiftlets
E l i S k
#BMJOH
#BMJOHJBO
)
aL
AH
BJJ # /(
"/(
<
4&.
J -
"
-" &
7*--"(& N VNB
5VO L
Where to Eat p306

S A R AWA K 153
EBS4FSJ
EBS4FS
B FS
#FHB
#FHBXBO
#FH
#F HBX
B BO 4VOEBS
-B T
TB
FSJB
-POH
-P
-44
"3
V
3, 8
+""
"-1
"-
LBO
BO
NBI,FTJOH
BI
G
J
2
!
.
"U T"

aK
NB
B UK MBONGG
F
UK - AT
LU FFT
edule, boat rides are an exciting way of getting

ttting to the
tt
sp
wayy between Kuching and the Brunei border, plus a few short Aerial view of mangrove forests
routes from Kuching to places such as Bako and Semantan. surrounding Sungai Sarawak
Kuching 1 traditional Islamic design,

architecture, costumes, coins,
The capital of Sarawak, Kuching is one of Malaysias jewelry, weapons, ceramics,
most attractive cities with historic buildings juxtaposed and weights and measures.
against modern high-rises and restaurants. It became The last gallery gives an
the capital of Rajah James Brookes empire in the mid- insight into the ability of Arab
19th century and was known as Sarawak until 1872 seafarers to navigate accurately
in uncharted waters long
when its name was officially changed to Kuching. Long before the Christian world
a confluence of Malay, Chinese, Indian, and indigenous developed the capacity. There
people, such as the Iban and Bidayuh, Kuching reflects is also a display of navigational
its varied cultural influences. Although the city sprawls techniques using the astrolabe.
both to the north and south of Sungai Sarawak, the
main sights of interest, such as the waterfront, colonial E Textile Museum
buildings, and ethnic souvenir shops, are all concen- Jalan Tun Haji Openg. ^
www.museum.sarawak.gov.my
trated around the south bank of the Kuching waterfront.
Located in the heart of the
city, it is hard to miss the
Pavilion, a building decorated
with ornate ironwork. Built
in 1907 as a hospital, it was
used as a propaganda center
by the invading Japanese
army during World War II.
Today, the Pavilion is home
to Kuchings Textile Museum.
Its two floors contain exhibits
of everyday clothes worn by
the various indigenous groups
of Sarawak, as well as the
costumes worn for weddings
and other ceremonies. There
Sungai Sarawak meandering through the city of Kuching are also models of women
engaged in activities such as
E Sarawak Museum musical instruments, and cloth spinning, weaving, and
Jalan Tun Haji Openg.Tell (082) 244- various tools such as the dyeing. Traditional songket
232. # daily. public hols. ^= three-pronged pricker that and ikat are also on display.
www.museum.sarawak.gov.my is used by the Iban to create
Perhaps one of Malaysias tattoos. Among the highlights P Round Tower
finest museums, the Sarawak on display are a replica of Jalan Tun Haji Openg. Tell (082) 245-
Museum provides an over- an Iban longhouse, Iban war 652. # 8:30am12:30pm, 25pm
view of the provinces history totems, and early 20th-century MonFri; 8:30amnoon Sat & Sun.
and ethnography. The artifacts Chinese glazed jars. Rotating www.sarawakhandicraft.com
of the museum are housed art exhibitions are held in the Built in the 1880s, the Round
in two buildings. The older new Tun Abdul Razak Hall, Tower was originally intended
section of the main building opposite the old wing, which to be a fort, but functioned
is a colonial mansion opened is accessible by a footbridge. instead as a dispensary in its
in 1891 at the suggestion of early days. It now houses
naturalist Alfred Wallace who E Islamic Museum the Sarawak Crafts Council,
discovered many of Sarawaks Jalan P. Ramlee. Tell (082) 244-232. which has showrooms that
endemic species of flora and # 9am6pm SatThu. Fri, feature some of the provinces
fauna. The natural science public hols. ^www.museum. finest handicrafts. Regular
section, on the first sarawak.gov.my demonstrations of weaving
floor, includes stuffed Housed in a restored and basket-making skills are
specimens of many of colonial building that also held here.
Sarawaks best-known was constructed in
species, such as 1930 and once func- P Jalan India
rhinoceros hornbills, tioned as a school, Near the waterfront. Masjid
hawksbill turtles, and the Islamic Museum Bandaraya # 9am3pm SatThu.
proboscis monkeys. presents the history Fri.
On the upper floor is of Islam and its spread Located on the western edge
an introduction to the in Sarawak as well as of the city center, near the
traditional lifestyles the rest of the Malay- river and the citys main fresh
of Sarawaks main Indonesian archi- market on Jalan Gambier, the
indigenous groups, pelago. Its seven pedestrianized Jalan India is
with displays of handi- Detail of a burial galleries, each with one of Kuchings most popu-
crafts, traditional dress, pole at Sarawak a different theme, lar shopping streets. The
ceremonial artifacts, Museum contain displays on majority of shops here, most
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2823 and p306
K U C H I N G 155
VISITORS CHECKLIST
SW Sarawak. * 500,000. k
@ n Courthouse Complex,
(082) 410-944; National Parks
and Wildlife Booking Desk,
(082) 248-088.
www.sarawaktourism.com
Sarawaks government, which

remained its function until
1973. The states law courts
continue to operate from
here, and the main court
chamber, with walls and
Colonial buildings with ironwood roofs in the Courthouse Complex ceiling covered with murals
depicting rural life in Sarawak,
of which are fronted by times. The mosque has now is worth visiting. The Clock
colonial-style arches, sell been superseded in size by Tower at the front of the com-
textiles, shoes, brassware, and the State Mosque, located plex was added in 1883 and
household goods, but there across the river at Petrajaya, the granite Charles Brooke
are also several souvenir which can accommodate up Memorial in 1925. At the four
shops and food stalls. to 14,000 worshipers. corners of the memorial are
Dominating the western stone figures representing
end of the street is the large P Courthouse Complex the principal ethnic groups
and impressive Masjid Junction of Main Bazaar and Jalan of Sarawak the Dayaks,
Bandaraya, or City Mosque, Tun Haji Openg. Malays, Chinese, and Orang
topped with gilded cupolas. A splendid example of Ulu. The complex houses the
Built in 1968 to replace an old Kuchings colonial heritage, Sarawak Tourism Boards
wooden mosque, it quickly the Courthouse Complex is Visitor Information Center,
became one of the citys most a cluster of buildings covered which has a booking desk
distinctive landmarks. Non- with ironwood roofs that are for the National Parks and
Muslims, dressed appropri- supported by Romanesque Wildlife office. Retail outlets
ately, are allowed to enter the and regal columns. It was and restaurants are also
mosque except during prayer built in 1871 as the seat of being developed here.
KUCHING CITY CENTER

0 meters 250
Courthouse Complex 6 Round Tower 4 Textile Museum 3
h 0 k 1 T a Pek Kong 9
'P
.
+ " - " / ( " .# * & 3
J
$PVSUIP
V

*/ %
/
*"
PNQQMFY Q
-" J
(
+" 3P
PVO .
&/
5PXFS "
*/
8 .BTK J
,
01
E +"
"$
#"
#BOE
EB -"
/ ;" J
+*
33
+" $" "

)"
- 31&
"#%6- 3")
"/ 1 3
#"
/5&
.0 3
/ ,6
/
5F MF +"-"
.
56
/(
42
56
/
+ - / #0 3 /& 0
"/
6& . N "#&
:"
--
+"-"
/
Q

U 5IPN
+-/
/ - & # 6 + - / 8"
+-
&
+-
/
-&
/ 1"
&
BEB 6/("
1-
D +" %
(
1" %
".
5VB 6/(
.
FSE -" #JT

JTIP
&/
+"-"/
5&
/ FL,
L,POH "/
+ - / # 6 , * 5
)
01
5VO"CE
5VO EVM
1 3
.$
+*
3B[BL)
L ) MM %0
)"
6(
"-
/
4
"/
-
56
)*
&
. "5 " , 6 $ ) * / (
,
#6"
4 "5
0
*3

+"-
.
( 5)*"/ $)&
0
/
37
-" Q
5"
/
4 &
+"-"
3&
"
+
/
+"
+"-"
"/
3F
U
a #
artifacts, documents such as

maps of early trade routes,
and information about their
traditional trading activities.
Tua Pek Kong

Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman.
# 6am10pm daily. _ Chinese
New Year (Feb).
Located opposite the Chinese
History Museum and over-
looking the river, Tua Pek
Kong is the oldest Taoist
temple in Kuching, dating
back to 1876. It is thought
that the current structure was
preceded by a Chinese temple
that existed here in the late
The historic Square Tower, today a multimedia information center 18th century. Vibrantly colored
and intricately decorated, the
P Square Tower Sarawak, and has rapidly temple is dedicated to Tua
Main Bazaar. Tell (082) 426-093. grown into one of the citys Pek Kong, the patron saint
# 10am4pm daily. most popular spots for jog- of merchants, and is always
In 1879, the Square Tower ging, dining, strolling, and very busy. It is built on a site
was built by Rajah Charles enjoying a spectacular sunset carefully chosen for its geo-
Brooke just north of the over the river. mancy, according to Chinese
Courthouse to replace a Set back a little from the tradition. The Wang Kang
wooden fort that had been waterfront, the Main Bazaar festival to commemorate the
burnt down by Chinese gold- is the citys oldest street and dead is also held here.
miners during a rebellion in is packed with shops. Two
1857. However, the tower of the most significant build- T Fort Margherita
was never again needed as a ings on this street, both North bank of Sungai Sarawak.
defensive structure and over carefully restored, are the g from the jetty near the Square
the years it was put to other Sarawak Steamship Building Tower. # TueSun. Mon.
uses, including a brief role as and Chinese History Museum. Close to the Astana, along the
a prison and later even as a The former, built in 1930, is riverbank to the east, is Fort
ballroom. The Square Tower, now home to the Kuching Margherita, with crenellated,
which marks one end of Waterfront Bazaar, which has whitewashed walls and large
Kuchings beautiful waterfront, several souvenir and handi- cannon. This structure, built
has now been converted into crafts stalls. The museum was in 1879 by Rajah Charles
a tourist information center. built by Rajah Charles Brooke Brooke and named for his
in 1911 and once functioned wife, was the second fort to
P Kuching Waterfront as the Chinese Chamber of be built on the site. The first,
Between Square Tower and Hilton Commerce. Today, however, built by his uncle, James
Hotel. - ( stalls in the evening. the museum provides an Brooke, was burnt to the
Sarawak Steamship Building overview of the evolution of ground by rebel Chinese gold-
Main Bazaar. # daily. Chinese the Chinese community in miners in 1857. Commanding
History Museum Main Bazaar. Sarawak through photographs, a sweeping view of Sungai
Tell (082) 231-520. # 9am6pm
SatThu.
A stroll along the Kuching
waterfront is one of the high-
lights of a visit to the city. In
the mid-1990s, several dilap-
idated warehouses along the
waterfront were demolished
and an extensive renovation
project transformed this
stretch into a lovely riverside
promenade. Landscaped
gardens, sculptures, cafs,
food stalls, and benches now
embellish this strip. Several
plaques along the path mark
historical spots. It also offers
spectacular views of the
Astana and Fort Margherita
on the north bank of Sungai An early morning view of the Kuching waterfront
K U C H I N G 157
Sarawak, Fort
Margherita was built
to protect Kuching
against attack from
pirates and other
enemies approaching
the town by the river
route. However, it
never fulfilled its
intended purpose as
Kuching did not come
under attack until
World War II when the
Japanese took control
of the entire city.
For many years, the The stately Astana on the north bank of Sungai Sarawak
fort was open to the
public but it is currently P Astana three elegant bungalows
under renovation and its North bank of Sungai Sarawak. with wooden shingle roofs.
future use is uncertain. g from the jetty near the Square Charles Brooke is said to have
Tower. Note only open to public grown betel nut on the palace
on Hari Raya Puasa. grounds so that he could offer
On the north bank of the river it to visiting Dayak chiefs. The
lies Kuchings most important Astana still functions as the
historical building, the impres- official residence of the
sive Astana. The name is a governor of Sarawak.
local version of the Malay
word istana, meaning palace. P Cat Statues
The Astana was built in 1870 Kuching means cat in Malay
by Rajah Charles Brooke as a and although the origin of the
gift to his bride, Margaret. She citys name is uncertain, there
later reminisced about her are several statues of cats
time here in her 1913 memoir, around the town, giving it a
My Life in Sarawak. unique identity. The statues
Set among manicured lawns are all located on the south
and offering a lovely view of bank of Sungai Sarawak, and
An imposing watch tower at Fort the Courthouse on the south include a small statue on the
Margherita in Kuching bank, the palace consists of waterfront just east of the
Chinese History Museum, a
larger one opposite the Hilton
THE WHITE RAJAHS Kuching (see p283) on Jalan
Tun Abdul Rahman, and a
In 1839, British explorer James third at the base of a pillar
Brooke found Sarawak in the farther east along Jalan
grip of a rebellion by the local Pandungan. The biggest
Dayaks against the rule of the statue, the 5-ft (1.5-m) tall
Sultan of Brunei. After his suc- Great Cat of Kuching, sits
cess in quelling the uprising, he at the junction of Jalan
was granted the title of Rajah of Padungan and Jalan Central.
Sarawak in 1841, establishing an
empire that was to last for over E Cat Museum
a century. At the time of James North of Kuching City Hall. Tell (082)
Brookes death in 1868, his territory 446-688. @ Petra Jaya bus 2C or
only covered what is now the 2D. # TueSun. Mon & public
southwest corner of Sarawak Sir James Brooke hols. & RM3 for use of camera,
the area around Kuching. It was his RM5 for use of video.
successor and nephew, Charles Brooke, who was respon- Located in the new town of
sible for expanding Sarawak to the current size, and also Petra Jaya, on the north bank
for commissioning most of the towns colonial buildings. of the river, the Cat Museum
A stickler for detail, he made frequent unannounced moved here in 1993 and claims
inspections of his officers, and any slack conduct was to be one of the few such
severely punished. Upon his death in 1917, Charles was museums in the world dedi-
succeeded by his son, Charles Vyner Brooke, and for a cated exclusively to cats. It
while Sarawak was run as a personal fiefdom. This ended covers everyr thing to do with
with the Japanese invasion in 1941. After World War II, cats, and the exhibits include
Vyner Brooke ceded the territory to Britain, and in 1963 cat-related art, stamps, photo-
it became part of the Federation of Malaysia. graphs, music, movies, and
even Garfield comic strips.
Sungai Santubong 2
12 miles (20 km) N of Kuching.
@ tour bus to Santubong jetty.
g tour boats between 4 and 5pm.
8 from Kuching.
After meandering through

the plains around Kuching,
Sungai Santubong flows
through Sarawak into the
South China Sea. During the
dry season, between March
and October, groups of the
rare Irrawaddy dolphin are
sometimes seen feeding and
playing around the mouth of Lagoon-style pool at the Holiday Inn Resort at Damai Beach
the river. These small, snub-
nosed dolphins are often Santubong 3 to be about 1,000 years old.
difficult to spot as they do A reclining human figure is
not leap out of the water like 19 miles (32 km) N of Kuching. still well-defined, but many
their better-known seafaring * 800. @ Petra Jaya bus 2B. other carvings have eroded.
cousins. Nevertheless, the
experience of watching these This fishing village sits near
unusal creatures is a major Sungai Santubong in the Damai Beach 4
draw on the popular boat shadow of the 2,657-ft (810-
trips along the river. m) Gunung Santubong. 21 miles (35 km) N of Kuching.
Some cruises continue During the Tang and Sung @ Petra Jaya bus 2B. 0
down the adjoining Sungai dynasties, which lasted from
Salak to Kuching Wetlands the 9th century to the 13th On the west coast of the
National Park. Covering a vast century, Santubong was an Santubong Peninsula, Damai
expanse of saline mangrove important trading center. is one of Sarawaks prettiest
swamps and patches of Today, it is merely a small beaches. Only a short journey
scrubland, the wetlands also village but it is worth visiting from Kuching, and featuring
include a network of small for the colorful wooden some beautifully designed
water channels and tidal houses built on stilts and resorts, the beach is a popular
creeks. The swamps are fishing boats on the beach, tourist destination and can get
inhabited by a variety of which are very photogenic. quite crowded on weekends.
wildlife, including proboscis The morning is the liveliest There is a wide selection of
monkeys, lorises, and colorful time in Santubong when the watersports on offer, inclu-
birds. In the evenings, large fishermen sell their daily ding sailing, snorkeling, and
groups of fireflies illuminate catch at the quay. The cafs windsurfing, as well as other
the riverside trees. River nearby are well known for activities such as mountain
cruises are the only way to their excellent seafood. biking and golf. Cafs and
explore the wetlands, and a From the main road into restaurants here have gained
number of tour operators in Santubong is a small turning a reputation for their superb
Kuching offer trips. which leads to Sungai Jaong, fresh seafood dishes.
one of the most important Picturesque trails around
O Kuching Wetlands
National Park archaeological sites in Gunung Santubong begin
9 miles (15 km) N of Kuching.
Sarawak. Among its artifacts here and trekking is a popular
g&8
are ancient Buddhist and activity for visitors to Damai
Hindu rock carvings, thought Beach. The Santubong Jungle
Trek, with blue trail markers,
is an easy, circular 1-mile
(1.6-km) walk that starts at
the Holiday Inn Resort Damai
Beach (see p282). A more
challenging route that also
begins here is the Gunung
Santubong Summit Trek,
winding up to the top. The
trail, with red markers, takes
5- to 7-hours to complete. It
also requires a good level of
fitness, sturdy hiking shoes,
and plenty of drinking water.
The resorts at Damai can
Gunung Santubong towering over Sungai Santubong arrange for guides.
S A R AWA K 159
Sarawak Cultural RAINFOREST WORLD MUSIC FESTIVAL

Village 5 In July each year, Sarawak Cultural Village hosts this festival,
which celebrates music from around the world. This 3-day
21 miles (35 km) N of Kuching. event, which has been held every year since 1998, previously
Tell (082) 846-411. @ tour bus and featured musicians from as far away as Mali, Mongolia, and
Petra Jaya bus 2B. # 9am5:15pm Madagascar. The festival now also provides a rare oppor-
daily; cultural shows at 11:30am and tunity to hear indigenous musicians from various regions of
4:30pm daily. & 0 = _ Harvest Malaysia. Seminars and work-
Festival (May), Rainforest World Music shops are held during the day,
Festival (Jul). www.scv.com.my spontaneous jam sessions take
place in the longhouses, and
Located at the foot of Gunung artistes perform on outdoor
Santubong, Sarawak Cultural stages in the evenings. The exotic
Village serves as an excellent setting around a lake against the
introduction to the cultural backdrop of Gunung Santubong
traditions of Sarawak. Erected makes for an electric atmosphere.
by the Sarawak Development Accommodation is available at
Corporation in the early 1990s the resorts on Damai Beach, and
to give visitors a taste of indig- frequent buses run from Kuching
enous lifestyles, the village for those who prefer to stay in
comprises seven houses clus- town. It is advisable to check
tered around a lake, each a the official website (www.
good example of the tradi- rainforestmusic-borneo.com) Jerry Kamit, a sape (lute-like
tional dwellings built by the for information on events. instrument) virtuoso
main indigenous groups. Iban,
Bidayuh, and Orang Ulu long-
houses sit side by side with a All traditional artifacts that are and Gunung Sendok form
Melanau tall-house, a Penan produced at the village can the backdrop to this wildlife
hut, a Chinese farmhouse and also be purchased from the haven. Among the diptero-
a Malay house. W Women and handicraft shop as souvenirs. carp (hardwood) forests and
men of respective groups live gentle waterfalls and streams
in these dwellings and also are more than 90 species of
demonstrate art and craft skills, Kubah National palms and a wide variety of
such as wood carving, textile orchids. Although there are
and basket-weaving, sword- Park and Matang bearded pigs, mouse deer,
making, and beadwork. Wildlife Center 6 and other wildlife, these are
Outside the Melanau tall- rarely seen. Visitors are more
house is a demonstration of a 12 miles (20 km) W of Kuching. likely to spot birds such as
traditional sago press, while Tell (082) 231-044. @ from Kuching. the maroon woodpecker or
the process of blowpipe- & www.sarawakforestry. the rufus-collared kingfisher.
making can be seen at the com Several trails crisscross
Penan hut. Visitors can take the park and the mountains
part in 3- to 4-day courses to Encompassing 9 sq miles (22 including the beautiful
learn a particular ethnic skill sq km), Kubah National Park Waterfall Trail that leads
W
or craft. A cultural show fea- is one of the smallest parks in through split-level falls and
turing traditional music and Sarawak. A sandstone plateau a 2- to 3-hour hike to the
dancers in elaborate costumes and three peaks the 2,990-ft mist-shrouded peak of
is also held daily at the indoor (911-m) Gunung Serapi and Gunung Serapi. The Rayu
theater located in the village. the smaller Gunung Selang Trail links Kubah to the
adjacent Matang Wildlife
Center, a rehabilitation center
for endangered species such
as orangutans, sambar deer,
hornbills, and proboscis
monkeys. Along the Pitcher
Trail are several varieties of
the carnivorous pitcher plant.
Accommodation for the parks
may be booked in advance at
the Visitor Information Center
in Kuching (see p155).
O Matang Wildlife Center
8 miles (13 km) N of Kubah.
Tell (082) 225-012. @ to Kubah
or Matang Polytechnic, then local
minibus. & -
A Bidayuh woman weaving rattan baskets at the Sarawak Cultural Village
Sematan 7 Tanjung Datu

100 km (62 miles) W of Kuching. National Park 8
* 2,300. @ from Kuching to
14 miles (23 km) from Sematan.
Lundu, STC 17 from Lundu.
_ Sematan Carnival (Aug). g chartered from Sematan or
Teluk Melano. # AprSep. &
The coastal village of Sematan www.sarawakforestry.com
is a popular weekend retreat
for Kuching residents. There Occupying just 14 sq km
is a long, quiet beach lined (5 sq miles) on the western-
with coconut palms and color- most tip of the state, Tanjung
ful fishing boats are harbored Datu is one of Sarawaks
in the bay. The village itself is smaller national parks. It has
small, consisting of a few rows two beautiful beaches, Pasir
of shophouses, a local market Antu and Pasir Berunpu,
with food stalls that serve backed by towering peaks.
delicious fish dishes, a busy The real highlight of the park
timber dock, and a jetty. Boats are the beautiful coral reefs, Trekking through a lush trail at
go from Sematan to Teluk visible in the crystal-clear Gunung Gading National Park
Melano, a Malay fishing vil- water and close enough to
lage nestled in a pretty bay the shore to walk around. Permits for the park and entry
on the Datu Peninsula. rtificial reefs farther out in tickets should be obtained
The village has a home- e sea are accessible from the Visitor Information
stay program that is y boat. The parks Center in Kuching (see p155).
organized by the lush rainforest is
Malaysian Fisheries home to varied
Board, which enables wildlife, so visitors Gunung Gading
visitors to stay with loca re likely to hear National Park 9
families. Boat trips to T bbon-cries and may
Melano are not possi- Flowers at even spot dolphins and 50 miles (80 km) W of Kuching.
ble in the monsoon Tanjung Datu turtles near the shore. @ STC 17 from Lundu. n Tell (082)
season, from October to Tanjung Datu has four 735-714 (Park HQ). # 8:30am
March, as the sea is too rough. trails of vary r ing lengths lead- 12:30pm, 25pm daily. & 8
Providing a boost to local ing through an unspoilt forest www.sarawakforestry.com
tourism is the annual Sematan and coastline. There are cur-
Carnival that takes place here rently no facilities for visitors In 1983, Gunung Gading
in August. The 3-day event at the park, but given its nat- National Park was established
hosts a music festival, beach ural beauty and the idyllic as a conservation area for the
games, and an exhibition of landscape, a day trip to worlds largest flower, the
local products. the park is worth the effort. rafflesia. Visitors can view the
flowers from walkways which
have been designed to prevent
people from treading on the
fragile young buds that sprout
inconspicuously. The bud
grows into a foul-smelling red
flower with white specks, and
reaches a width of up to 3 ft
(1 m). This rare parasitic plant
blooms at unpredictable times
and lasts only a few days,
therefore it is advisable to call
the park ahead to check if
one is in bloom. Visitors can
also see Amorphophallus, a
gigantic herbaceous plant of
the aroid family.
The park sprawls across
four jungle-clad mountains,
Gunung Gading, Gunung
Perigi, Gunung Lundu, and
Gunung Sebuloh. Color-coded
trails of varying levels of dif-
f
ficulty crisscross the park. The
easiest is the Waterfall Trail
which passes through seven
Fishing boats docked at the Sematan jetty cataracts. The challenging
S A R AWA K 161
Gunung Gading Trail leads up

to the summit of the 2,985-ft
(910-m) hill. Visitors will also
find a natural pool near the
Park Headquarters.
Wind Cave and

Fairy Cave 0
31 miles (50 km) SW of Kuching.
@ STC 2 to Bau from Kuching,
then taxi. 8 from Kuching.
www.sarawakforestry.com
Two caves formed in a range

of limestone cliffs located
near the former gold-mining
town of Bau make an inter-
esting day trip from Kuching.
Wind Cave, 2 miles (3 km)
west of Bau, is made up of Mother and baby orangutans at Semenggoh Nature Reserve
a network of underground
streams that pass through the has transformed the chamber orangutans to their natural
cave before joining Sungai into a popular shrine. Neither habitat is the primary aim of
Kayan. The caves smooth, of the two caves is illumi- this nature reserve and its
tubular interior is filled with nated and flashlights are orangutan rehabilitation pro-
stalagmite and stalactite pil- essential in the dark interior. gram has been particularly
lars. A boardwalk passes right successful, resulting in a
through the cave to the river thriving population of semi-
at the other end, which is a Semenggoh Nature wild orangutans inhabiting
popular spot for picnics and Reserve q the surrounding forest. With
swimming. To protect the the forest having reached its
cave and its surrounding lime- 15 miles (24 km) SW of Kuching. capacity to hold the primates,
stone forest, which is home to Tell (082) 618-325. @ STC 6 the program has now been
a number of rare plant species, from Kuching. # 8am12:45pm, transferred to the Matang
including some types of palms, 24:15pm daily. & www.sarawak Wildlife Center (see p159).
Wind Cave has been desig- forestry.com Since the orangutans roam
nated as a nature reserve. freely, spotting them is not
Fairy Cave, 3 miles (5 km) This reserve functions as a guaranteed. The best chance
farther south, is larger and rehabilitation center for honey to see them is at feeding time,
accessed by a flight of steps bears, orangutans, crocodiles, around 9am and 3pm.
leading up to the cave mouth. monkeys, gibbons, hornbills, There are also pleasant
Its main chamber also contains and porcupines, all of which walking trails around the
a series of stalagmite forma- were either orphaned due to reserve. A Botanical Research
tions. One of these, thought hunting or rescued from Center here is dedicated to
to resemble Kuan Yin, the cages where they were kept analysing jungle plants with
Chinese goddess of mercy, illegally as pets. Reintroducing medicinal properties.
THE BIDAYUH
The Bidayuh are one of the largest indigenous Dayak groups living in Sarawak and have
traditionally been farmers and hunters. Concentrated in the area west of Kuching, their
longhouses dot the slopes of Anna Rais. Unlike other Dayak groups of Sarawak, they build
their longhouses at the foot of hills rather than
on riverbanks. The British referred to them as
Land Dayaks to distinguish them from the
Sea Dayaks such as the Iban who traveled
everywhere by boat. The Biyaduh are particu-
larly skilled at bamboo-carving, basket-weaving,
and beadwork. Women can be seen sitting on
the ruai, or communal veranda, making bead-
covered hats that are used for special occasions.
Among these is the Gawai Padi festival, held in
early June, when Bidayuhs give thanks to the
rice goddess for a bountiful harvest. The cele-
bration involves singing, dancing, and drinking. The terrace, ruai,i of a Bidayuh longhouse
Bako National Park w
Established in 1957, Bako was Sarawaks first national 4PVUI$IJOB4FB

park. Spread across 10 sq miles (27 sq km), it
nurtures vegetation that ranges from rain forest to
swampland and mangrove forests to kerangas, or
scrubland. With steep rocky cliffs punctuated by "SFBPGNBQ
*MMVTUSBUFE
deep bays, white sandy beaches, and a mangrove-
fringed coastline, Bako is a nature-lovers paradise. It
is also one of the best parks in Malaysia
rare animals, such as proboscis monkey
pigs, sambar deer, and macaques, which makes it a
popular destination for wildlife enthusia
the park can be visited on a day trip, th
wildlife sightings are higher in the early morning and
in the evening, so an overnight trip is ad
#FTBS
&4
,
6
"TTBN 5" +
0
J "
Q # b
AM
. Sea Stacks KVOH
These towering rock formations are a pecul
characteristic of Bakos coastline. They were
formed by the action of the sea on the softer 5FMVL 6-6
sandstone at the base of the cliffs, which erod

leaving behind pillars of harder limestone.
"/
5
. Bakos Wildlife STAR

T SIGHTS
Bako offers opportunities to spot a diverse r
of wildlife, including flying lemurs, monito . Sea Stacks
lizards, and 150 species of birds. However, the
. Bakos Wildlife
stars of the park are the endangered probos
monkeys, named for their prominent nose, . Tajor Waterfall
forage in groups for mangrove leaves.
S A R AWA K 163
Sundew Plant VISITORS CHECKLIST

With much of the 25 miles (40 km) N of Kuching.
soil in Bako lacking @ to Bako village, then boat
nutrients, carniv- to the Park. Tel (011) 225-049
orous plants such ((Park HQ). -
as the pitcher and Permits for camping should be
sundew plants must booked in advance in Kuching
attract and trap at the Visitor Information Center
(see p155).
insects to derive
www.sarawakforestry.com
K
There are several trails in the park, and each one is
of paint on trees, making
a guide. Viewpoints along
the trails offer great views. There are lodges and a
5
adquarters but bookings

dvance.
5 M L 4PVUI $IJOB
-
,FSBOHBT
6
KP
*
. Tajor Waterfall
A popular picnic spot, Tajor
5
l is 2 miles (4 km) down

or Trail. The waterfall is
1"
and has a dip pool. The

e to visit is after a heavy
akes about two hours to
to the waterfall from the
Park Headquarters.
FT
MONKEY BUSINESS IN BAKO

Relatively accustomed to the
presence of visitors, long-tailed
macaques are easy to spot as they
scavenge for food near the Park
Headquarters. While a close sighting
can initially be thrilling, macaques
can be intimidating and are likely to
J snatch bags or possessions if left
unguarded for a moment. Even the
Q
garbage disposal system has to be
specially designed to keep the A female macaque
macaques out. carrying an infant
Colorful longboats moored on the banks of the Batang Rajang
Batang Rajang e Rajang. The jetties of all the Sibu r

towns teem with huge ekspres
From Kuching. g Bintawa Wharf, boats as well as the smaller, 120 miles (193 km) NE of Kuching.
daily boat from Kuching to Sibu at motorized longboats. It is * 200,000. ~ @ Sungei Antu.
8:30am. ( daily. _ Gawai Padi possible to travel the entire g Jalan Khoo Peng Loong. n 32
Festival (MayJun). distance from Kuching to Jalan Cross, (084) 340-980. ( daily.
Belaga by boat. The first leg
Flowing 348 miles (560 km) of this journey is up to the The capital of Sarawaks
through the heart of Sarawak, town of Sibu, the principal largest district, Sibu is also the
the vast Batang Rajang is transport hub on the Batang major port of the province
Sarawaks longest river and Rajang. The jetties are divided and an important economic
the main artery of trade for between upriver and center, managing trade
towns in the central and downriver traffic, which between the coast and the
southern parts of the prov- provides easy access to hinterland. The towns
ince. The upper reaches are Kanowit and Kapit. rly growth was
the heartland of the timber The journey from funded by the rubber
industry, and the river is often Kapit to the town of industry, run mostly
muddy with topsoil and Belaga, a further six by Chinese mer-
littered with debris from hours away, passes chants who were
various logging operations. through the treach- encouraged by Rajah
This region is populated erous Pelagus Charles Brooke to
largely by the indigenous Rapids, a 1.5-mile set up businesses
people, and the banks of the (2.5-km) stretch of here. Later, they
river and its tributaries are cataracts and whirl- also established a
scattered with longhouses. pools caused by a thriving timber trade.
The lower reaches of the river sudden drop in the Among the sights
are inhabited predominantly riverbed. Boats may of Sibu is the 100-
by the Iban people, while the not run at all on Temple guardian, year-old temple dedi-
upper section mostly contains this stretch when Tua Pek Kong Temple cated to Tua Pek
the dwellings of the Kayan the water level in Kong, the patron
and Kenyah. Trips up the the rapids is dangerously low, saint of merchants. Located
river to these longhouses can usually between May and on the western end of the
be arranged through tour August. Beyond Belaga, the waterfront, the temple has a
operators in Kuching, Sibu, Rajang divides into Sungai beautiful seven-story pagoda
and Kapit. Independent travel Belaga and Batang Balui. with fantastic views of the
is also possible, but it is The best time for a trip up town and river.
essential that visitors wait to the Batang Rajang is between North of the city center is
be invited in before entering late May and early June to the Sibu Civic Center Heritage
a traditional longhouse. coincide with the Gawai Museum, which traces the
Boats are a major form of Padi (see p51) festival cele- towns history through old
transportation between the brated by the Dayak people photographs and artifacts.
towns that flank the Batang in their longhouses. The museum also has a rich
S A R AWA K 165
collection of white ceramics families. The best time to visit

that dates back to the 10th is in the late afternoon, as
and 12th centuries. most longhouse residents
work in the fields through
Environs the day. Guests are usually
Located about 40 miles (65 shown around and often
km) upriver of Sibu, Kanowit offered a glass of tuak, the
is a small place with few potent rice wine.
sights of interest. The main
P Fort Sylvia
highlight is Fort Emma, built
Jalan Kubu. Tell (084) 799-171.
by Rajah James Brooke in # 10amnoon, 25pm TueSun.
1859 and named after his sis-
ter. Constructed of bamboo P Rumah Seligi
and timber, it was an attempt @ irregular service from Jalan
Airport, Kapit.
to prevent Iban raids on
Melanau tribes on the Batang
Rajang. Eventually, the place
became key to the success of Belaga y
the Rajahs rule. The fort is Vegetable vendor at the colorful
not open to the public. daily market in Kapit 93 miles (150 km) NE of Kapit.
* 25,300. ~ to Bintulu. g from
E Sibu Civic Center Heritage Kapit. ( daily. Belaga Hotel 14
training center for artisans.
Museum
There is also an interesting Belaga Bazaar. Tel (086) 461-244.
Jalan Tun Haji Openg. # 38pm
museum at the towns civic
TueSat, 9amnoon & 28pm Sun.
center, which has displays The last settlement of any
of Iban and Orang Ulu long- significant size on the Batang
houses as well as photo- Rajang, Belaga has a wider
Kapit t graphs of the early days. mix of ethnic groups than any
Kapit is also a trading center other town in Sarawak. Apart
124 miles (200 km) E of Sibu. for the indigenous people from Iban, Kayan, Kenyah,
* 99,840. ~ g from Sibu. that inhabit the upriver areas. and Penan people, who bring
n (084) 796-445. A lively market sets up daily, their jungle produce to sell at
near the center of town, the Belaga bazaar, the town
Kapit is a small but bustling packed with vendors selling is also visited by seasonal
riverside town, with an attrac- an assortment of jungle pro- collectors of wild honey from
tive waterfront lined with duce, such as vegetables, tropi- Kalimantan. Few foreign
trees and plants. The towns cal fruits, and beeswax. A visitors make it so deep into
main landmark is the historic major draw for most visitors Sarawak, but if they do, it
Fort Sylvia, a whitewashed to Kapit is a chance to visit is one of the best places to
ironwood structure named the remote longhouses along arrange visits to Kenyah and
after the wife of Vyner the upper tributaries of the Kayan longhouses, common to
Brooke, the third of the White mighty Batang Rajang. this section of the river. These
Rajahs. It was built in 1880 in longhouses feature salong, or
an effort to control Iban head- Environs intricately carved tomb mark-
hunting parties in the region. Located just 6 miles (10 km) ers, which can be seen from a
In 1997 the fort was listed as from Kapit, Rumah Seligi is distance. Arrangements for a
a historical monument, and an authentic Iban longhouse longhouse visit can be made
now houses a museum and a that is the home to about 40 at the Belaga Hotel.
The bright, whitewashed exterior of Fort Sylvia on the Kapit waterfront

Mukah u
112 miles (180 km) NE of Kuching.
* 55,000. ~ @ _ Pesta Kaul
(2nd week of Apr).
Located on the coast north of

Sibu (see p164), Mukah is a
quiet fishing town that offers
a glimpse into the lifestyle of
the Melanau, the indigenous
group that predominates in
this region. A few of their
traditional tall-houses can still
be seen in the area, although
most Melanau prefer simple
Malay dwellings now. The A boardwalk across a small stream in Similajau National Park
majority of the towns sights
are clustered along the south offshore. This led to the
bank of Sungai Mukah, and construction of an oil terminal Similajau National
include the market and Tua and Bintulu Port, Malaysias Park o
Pek Kong Temple, whose second-largest deep-sea port.
walls are adorned with well- Among the prominent build- 13 miles (21 km) NE of Bintulu.
executed murals of Buddhist ings in town is a tower called Tell (086) 391-284. @ g speedboat
and Taoist deities. the Council Negeri Monument. from Bintulu. # daily. &
Mukah springs to life in Located in the western part of www.sarawakforestry.com
mid-April to celebrate the town near the river, the monu-
Pesta Kaul (see p51) festival, ment commemorates the Occupying just 27 sq miles
held annually to appease first meeting of the Legislative (70 sq km), Similajau National
the sea spirits and mark the Council of Sarawak during Park was established in 1976
beginning of a new fishing September 1867. Also worth to create a protected habitat
season. As part of the festiv- visiting are Masjid Assyakirin, for the green turtles that nest
ities, the Melanau dance to a Moorish-style mosque bear- on its beaches each year.
folk rhythms on the beach ing a distinctive blue dome Visitor facilities were added
and sway back and forth on and set in well-landscaped only in the 1990s and
a tibau, a tall swing used as grounds, and Kuan Yin Tong Similajau is still one of
part of a fertility rite. Temple, which features a Sarawaks least visited parks.
A short distance from town beautiful rock garden and A 19-mile (31-km) strip of
is Kampung Tellian, a fishing an artificial waterfall. coastline lined by trees and
village with colorful boats, Across the river, Kampung punctuated by rocky head-
winding lanes, and narrow Jepak features Melanau stilt lands offers visitors some of
bridges. Here, the Lamin Dana houses and is famous for its the countrys best beaches.
museum is dedicated to the belacan, a pungent shrimp The parks main walking trail
preservation of Melanau cul- paste used in Malay cooking. is well marked and follows
ture with exhibits of textiles, Taman Tumbina, a short dis- the coast. Interesting routes
betel nut boxes, and rattan bas- tance north of town, is a branch off from it, including
kets. Traditional tall-houses are compact recreational park, the Viewpoint and the
available for overnight stays. the ideal place to escape Selansur Rapids Trails. The
the bustle of town. path ends at Golden Beach,
E Lamin Dana which is great for swimming.
Kampung Tellian. n (082) 241-735. Walkers can look out for
# 9am5pm MonSat.
www.lamindana.com
gibbons and banded langurs,
as well as flying foxes, which
are under threat in other
regions due to excessive
Bintulu i hunting. The park supports
over 180 bird species, includ-
221 miles (356 km) NE of Kuching. ing the hook-billed bulbul
* 100,000. ~ @ g www. and the wrinkled hornbill.
bintulu.net.my Saltwater crocodiles live in
some of the larger rivers and
Originally a fishing and signs posted in the park warn
farming center on Sungai against swimming here.
Kemena, Bintulu experienced Dolphins and porpoises are
a period of intense develop- occasionally found swimming
ment in the late 1970s when in groups close to the shore,
Malaysias largest natural gas Monument marking the founding and are best viewed from a
reserves were discovered just of the Sarawak Legislative Council boat trip along the coast.
S A R AWA K 167
Iban Longhouses
Traditionally, all indigenous groups of areas, and visiting them often involves
Sarawak lived in communal long- a longboat trip. Generally erected next
houses that reflected the tight-knit to rivers, most longhouses are stilt
nature of tribal culture. One of wellings built of timber, with
largest Dayak groups, the Iban atched roofs and bamboo or
migrated to Sarawak from tan woven walls tied together
Kalimantans Kapual River basin with fiber from creepers. Staying
(now in Indonesia) between the in a longhouse is the highlight
16th and 18th centuries. Most of a visit to the province as the
Iban longhouses, called rumah Iban make excellent hosts,
panjang, or rumah panjai, are often welcoming visitors with
located in the Skrang, Lemanak, A traditionally tuak, or rice wine, a meal, and
Batang Ai, and Batang Rajang tattooed Iban man providing a longhouse tour.
Traditional thatched roofs are Stilts supportthe structure, Private rooms, or bilek, line
now often replaced by the which is accessed by steps made the ruai, a long, covered
more durable corrugated iron. of steeply-angled tree trunks. communal veranda.
A TRADITIONAL LONGHOUSE The area beneath the living quarters has

The main internal division of the longhouse is created chickens and pigs, rooting for scraps
which fall through the bamboo slats.
by a wall through the center of the building. On one
side is a wide communal veranda, while on the other is
a row of bilek, or private rooms, each entered by a
single door. The kitchen area is inside the bilek.
An outdoor veranda called tanju

fronts the longhouse and runs
along the length of the building.
The verandas split-bamboo floor is
A wide public veranda, or ruai, runs down the middle of exposed to rain and sun. This area
the longhouse, with all bilek facing out onto it. The ruai is used mainly for drying rice, coffee,
is used for socializing and making handicraft items. cocoa beans, pepper, and even clothes.
Miri p most spectacular attractions.

In 1958, Tom Harrison, cura-
516 miles (830 km) NE of Kuching. tor of the Sarawak Museum in
* 300,000. Tell (082) 764-231. Kuching, discovered skulls
~ @ ( Sat & Sun. _ Miri and tools at the mouth of the
International Jazz Festival (May), Hari Great Cave evidence that
Gawai (Jun). www.miri.net.my the caves had been inhabited
by humans 40,000 years ago.
Originally a quiet fishing With the enormous Great
village, Sarawaks second Cave as its centerpiece, the
largest city Miri emerged as national park was established
a major commercial center in 1975, covering 12 sq miles
when Malaysias first oil well (32 sq km) of dense rainforest
was drilled here in 1910. In and limestone outcrops
the 1970s, the onshore oil- From the Park Headquarters,
fields closed down and Miri Vegetables for sale in the Tamu a short boat ride across Sungai
shifted its focus to developing Muhibba Market Niah takes visitors to the board-
its tourism industry. walk that links the caves. The
Packed with markets and superb reefs around Miris first is Traders Cave, named
cafs, the atmospheric old coast, teeming with electric- for the guano and birds nest
town around Jalan China is blue angel fish, and blue- collectors who once sold their
the liveliest part of the city. spotted sting rays, has been a harvest here. Farther along is
Among the most interesting boost to its tourism industry. the Great Cave, one of the
markets is Tamu Muhibba, or U Al Taqwa Mosque
worlds largest caves. It mea-
local market, where upriver Jalan Merpati. Tell (085) 412-291. sures a staggering 820 ft (250
indigenous people come to # non-Muslims welcome outside m) in width and has a 196-ft
sell jungle produce such as prayer times. (60-m) high cave mouth. It is
tropical fruits, rattan mats, and home to several species of
E Petroleum Museum
Bario rice. The citys biggest swiftlets and bats, and during
Canada Hill. # 9am5pm daily.^
wet market on the northern the harvest season, nest and
end of Jalan China borders bat guano collectors camp
the simple red-and-yellow inside the cave. From within
building of the Tua Pek Kong Niah Caves the Great Cave, the trail con-
temple. The Al Taqwa Mosque, National Park a tinues to the Painted Cave,
with its whitewashed arches where ancient rock paintings
and a huge golden dome 71 miles (115 km) S of Miri. n park made with red hematite stone
framed by palm trees is also headquarters, Pengkalan Batu, Miri; cover a narrow 98-ft (30-m)
worth a visit. Perhaps Miris (085) 737-450. @ from Miri to Batu strip on the back wall. Several
most significant site, perched Niah, then taxi. # 8am5pm daily. small boat-shaped coffins
atop Canada Hill, is Oil Well & 8 - = may be booked called death-ships were also
No. 1. The site of Malaysias in advance at Miris Visitor Information found in the cave, indicating
first oil excavation, it is now Center. www.sarawakforestry.com that it may have been used
a National Monument. Close once as a burial chamber. The
to it, the new Petroleum Considered by many to be the paintings and the coffins are
Museum documents the most important archaeological protected by a fence. The
growth of this industry. The site in Southeast Asia, the Niah caves are dimly lit so it is
discovery of a number of caves are among Sarawaks wise to carry a flashlight.
Rock formations in the Painted Cave at Niah Caves National Park
S A R AWA K 169
Loagan Bunut Kelabit

National Park d Highlands f
81 miles (130 km) SE of Miri. 116 miles (190 km) SE of Miri. ~
Tell (085) 779-410. @ from Miri to from Miri to Bario. 8 from Miri.
Lapok, then taxi. # 8am5pm daily.
& Entry permits must be One of Borneos most isolated
booked in advance at the Visitor and unspoilt regions, Kelabit
Information Center in Kuching or Highlands is a 3,281-ft (1,000-
Miri. www.sarawakforestry.com m) high plateau that is home
to the hospitable Kelabit
Consisting of Bunut Lake, people. A visit to one of their
Sarawaks biggest freshwater longhouses is a highlight of a
lake, and the surrounding trip to this spectacular region.
dense peat swamp and Among the most populous of
dipterocarp forest, Loagan the highland settlements is
Bunut National Park is a bird- Bario, which nestles in a lush
watchers paradise. A profu- valley. The village has a small
Pantu waterfall at Lambir Hills sion of bird species inhabit airport and a few lodging
National Park this park, including herons, houses, and these make it a
darters, kingfishers, egrets, good base for exploring the
magpies, robins, and n. Day trips from Bario
Lambir Hills hornbills. The lake ude a visit to the beau-
National Park s is dependent on ul longhouse at Pa
the water levels of Umor. A longer and
20 miles (32 km) S of Miri. n park the Bunut and Tinja much more challenging
headquarters, (085) 491-030. rivers, and often drie outing is the 5-day
@ from Miri. # 8am5pm daily. up completely for a trek along the Bario
& - may be booked in few weeks in Febru Loop. The trail offers
advance at the Visitor Information May, and June. At this Kingfisher at some delightful
Center in Kuching or Miri. time, the local fisher- Loagan Bunut views, and trekkers
www.sarawakforestry.com men practice a unique have the option of
type of fishing called making overnight stays at the
With its range of rugged selambau to catch fish that Ramudu, Pa Dalih, or Long
sandstone hills, mixed dip- are stranded in the receding Dano longhouses. For serious
terocarp (hardwood) forest, waters. The fish are scooped mountain climbing head to
low-lying kerangas, or scrub- up in huge nets mounted Gunung Murud, located 12
land, and teeming wildlife, on spoon-shaped wooden miles (20 km) north of Bario.
Lambir Hills National Park is frames. Boat cruises on the At 7,999 ft (2,438 m), Murud
a popular weekend getaway lakes tranquil waters, espe- is Sarawaks highest peak and
from Miri. Among its main cially rewarding in the early is regarded as a holy moun-
attractions are sparkling morning and dusk, can be tain by the indigenous people
waterfalls that cascade into arranged at the park head- of the highlands. Scaling its
natural swimming pools. quarters. A few trails, lined sheer walls should only be
There are also some excellent with tapangg and belian trees, attempted by fit and experi-
jungle trails that lead to the lead through the forest. enced climbers. There are
falls, ranging from easy 15- Limited access makes this a two main trails up the moun-
minute strolls to all-day hikes. seldom-visited park, but new tain and having a guide is
The longest is the 4-hour roads and visitor facilities advisable. All the treks can
trek to the summit of Bukit are being planned to attract be arranged through the
Lambir for a scenic view of tourists to the park. lodges at Bario.
the park. Closest to the park
headquarters is the Latak
waterfall, with an enticing
pool and sandy beach, while
deeper into the jungle are the
Pantu and Pancur waterfalls.
Although the animals here
may be diffif cult to spot, the
national park is home to flying
squirrels, gibbons, pangolins,
clouded leopard, and barking
deer, as well as numerous
species of birds. There are
several Iban longhouses,
including Rumah Nakat,
which has an interesting
traditional handicraft center. Lush paddy fields near Bario in the Kelabit Highlands
Mulu National Park g
Listed both as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a #36/&*

Rainforest Conservation Area, Mulu National Park is
one of Sarawaks premier tourist destinations. Named
for the sandstone peak of Gunung Mulu, it is a region
"SFBPGNBQ
of great natural beauty. The park encompasses over *MMVTUSBUFE
200 sq miles (500 sq km) of rain forest and has two
mountain ranges and some of the largest caves in the
world. Gorges, valleys, and underground passages in the
park provide the ideal ha ."-":4*"
and fauna, including seve
bills. Trekking up to the
Api, exploring Clearwater
the Canopy Skywalk are
. Clearwater Cave
Thought to be the longest in
Southeast Asia, the 62-mile
km) long Clearwater Cave
spectacular natural forma
of helictites and photokarst
b
ff f
writhing spiral as they fly off to look for food.
S A R AWA K 171
VISITORS CHECKLIST
93 miles (150 km) E of Miri.
~ to Mulu. g from Miri.
n Lot 452, Jalan Melayu, Miri;
(085) 434-181. & 8 Wind
and Clearwater Caves: 9:30
10:30am; Deer and Langs Caves:
3:304:30pm. - available
at Park Headquarters.
www.mulupark.com. Permits
for trekking are available at
Park Headquarters.
0 km 3
0 miles 3
RK
exceptional facilities with well-
kways and a good network
rive by plane and have accom-
as the four-star Mulu Rainforest
mitories in the park. The Bat
m the Canopy Skywalk are
gular tours of the main caves.
KEY
Minor road
Trail
Park boundary
a Airport
Campsite
Q Visitor information
Peak
A visitor braving the Canopy Skywalk
CANOPY SKYWALK
Mulu National Parks newest attraction is the 1,575-ft
STAR SIGHTS (480-m) long Canopy Skywalk, which is among the
longest in the world. A series of swaying walkways
. Clearwater Cave is held aloft by steel cables about 66 ft (20 m) above
the ground, offering visitors the chance to explore
. Deer Cave and the forest canopy, to get close up to the several
Bat Exodus species of birds that inhabit the park, and provides
an aerial view of the swamp below. The 2-hour walk
. The Pinnacles can be arranged at the Park Headquarters.
Brunei h
Located on the northwest coast of Malaysian Borneo and

hemmed in by the borders of Sarawak, the Sultanate of
Brunei Darussalam is among the worlds smallest coun-
tries. It played a pivotal role in Borneos history, with its
sultans having once controlled vast tracts of the islands
north and west. Today, Brunei occupies a modest 2,226
sq miles (5,765 sq km). Most of the country is a low-
lying coastal plain backed by rain forest and hills. Off the
west coast lie vast oil fields, which are responsible for the
countrys affluence. It is divided into four districts: Brunei
Muara which includes Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital;
Tutong, an agric
oil industry; and
,
,B QV
B b
b
b BNV
JB
b FTF
b
Labi
This quiet agricu
on the harvest of
rambutan. The 3
Road is dotted wi
SULTAN OF BR
Head of the wor
hereditary mona
Hassanal Bolkia N
reigning sultan a
ister, as well as
finance minister
for his legendary
tune and vast ca
the sultan has at
share his nation
by providing fre /
and healthcare f
B R U N E I 173
VISITORS CHECKLIST
120 miles (193 km) NE of Miri.
* 380,000. k g from Miri.
n Jalan Menteri Besar, Bandar
Seri Begawan; (673) 238-2822.
_ Islamic New Year (Jan),
National Day (Feb).
www.tourismbrunei.com
. Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
b
BLBT
b
b
N
#B FSJ
S
HBX O b
"3"
b
b
Istana Nur-ul-
man
b e worlds largest
sidential palace,
e Istana Nur-ul-
man is the offi-
b al home of the
b ltan of Brunei.
contains nearly
000 rooms, a
mptuous throne
om, and a
anquet hall for
000 diners.
STAR SIGHTS
. Sultan Omar Ali
Saifuddien Mosque
. Kampung Ayer his national

serve. Its canopy
. Istana Nur-ul-Iman the flying
habit the park.
SABAH
M
alaysias second largest state, Sabah sits on the northeastern
tip of Borneo. Located just south of the typhoon belt, this
Land below the Wind is geographically stunning, with
magnificent caves, coral reefs, forests, and mountains. The state is
also the ideal destination for a range of adventure activities including
mountain climbing, white-water rafting, and diving.
Archaeological excavations reveal countries. However, with
evidence of prehistoric human ecotourism contributing to
habitation in eastern the states economy, and abun-
approximately 40,000 years dant agricultural produce,
ago. This remote province, such as palm oil, Sabah is
with over 30 indigenous starting to catch up.
groups, as well as immigrants Sandakan, the administrative
from China, Indonesia, and the capital between 1883 and 1942,
Philippines, was nominally ruled and Kota Kinabalu, the present
by the sultans of Brunei for centuries state capital, were both almost
until the British negotiated the rights completely destroyed during World
to exploit the regions reserves of War II, but today they have been
rubber, tobacco, and timber in the late rebuilt and are charming destinations.
19th century. Although the British From Kota Kinabalu it is an easy
never had a stable leadership over journey north to the Tip of Borneo,
Sabah, they clung on to power, with south to the Padas River for white-
the region continuing to be known water rafting, and northeast to
as North Borneo until it joined the Gunung Kinabalu for a challenging
Federation of Malaysia in 1963. trek. Sandakan is a good base from
Today, Sabahs economy lags which to visit the dive sites that lie
behind that of other states in Malaysia off the east coast and the nature
because of an inequitable distribution reserves at Sukau and Danum Valley.
of wealth between the state and Sabah also offers visitors a cultural
federal governments, and an influx experience with its vibrant tamuss held
of immigrants from neighboring weekly, and fascinating longhouses.
Rafflesia, one of Sabahs most unusual and pungent attractions
The towering peak of Gunung Kinabalu, a favorite among trekkers

Exploring Sabah
The state is characterized by steep mountains and
KEY
lush valleys teeming with magnicent wildlife and
marine life. The highlights of a visit to Sabah are Major road
a trek up Gunung Kinabalu, diving trips from the Minor road
islands of Sipadan and Lankayan and white water
rafting on the Padas Rive
for wildlife spotting whil
Gombizau, Bavanggazo,
opportunity to interact w
exciting and memorable
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Towns and Villages
Bavanggazo 0
Gombizau 8
Kota Belud 7 N
a
Kota Kinabalu 1 %"
Kudat q
Sandakan r
Semporna s (
Sumangkap 9
Tawau f
Areas of Natural Beauty

Danum Valley a -6
Gomantong Caves o
Klias Wetlands 4
"
Tip of Borneo w "3
Parks and Preserves
6
Kinabalu National Park J
pp1847 e 5
5" 3"''-&
"' "
Kinabatangan Wildlife BS &4&37
37&
Sanctuary i S
U
N US-
FFT
E
1 T
-"/ B
O OEBXBOH
4 VM
B
U -U U -IAU
UN
FT
Lush tropical rainforest at Kinaba

National Park

S A B A H 177
M AN
0ULAU"ANGG
VOUP
FMBH
0U
,BOJC
,BOJCP * M
4
LJ
4VO OHBJ
PJ
-
NG 5*0/
a 4"/%
K
0,0
03 /(
(65"
3&)"#* 5* $&/5&3
3
( 0 (
$
F @ ,*/" ( 8*-% *'&
4" 6"3:
HP
POH
P OH
O
" / &
3 4&
4BIBCBU
4B
'UN ULI
5
A
'UNUNG,OTU
UN J 8 " BLBQ
L
-
N 7
"
,
0U
'UN
J 4&.1
4
a
EBSBTBCBL
TB
J
;
Stilt village and State Mosque in Kota Kinabalu, the fastest growing city and capital of Sabah
Kota Kinabalu 1 Bay. Also overlooking the bay highlights of the museum,
is the magnificent 31-story and include examples of
190 miles (300 km) NE of Miri. glass building of the Sabah musical instruments, swords,
* 350,000. k g n Sabah Foundation. An observatory spears, and blowpipes, ethnic
Tourism Board, 51 Jalan Gaya; on Signal Hill offers a sweep- costumes, and displays on the
(088) 212-121. ( Sun. ing view of the city and off- various uses of bamboo. The
www.sabahtourism.com shore islands. Kota Kinabalu archaeology gallery displays
is the best base from which intricately carved coffins. A
The capital of Sabah, Kota to explore Sabahs northwest time tunnel exhibit docu-
Kinabalu occupies a narrow coast, including the magnif- ments the arrival of Filipino
stretch of land between the icent Gunung Kinabalu (see and Indonesian immigrants,
western seafront and a range pp1847) and Tunku Abdul the colonial era, the Japanese
of forested hills. Formerly Rahman National Park. occupation, and the incor-
known as Jesselton, it became poration of Sabah into the
the provincial capital after E Sabah Museum Federation of Malaysia in
World War II, and was Jalan Muzium. Tell (088) 253-199. 1963. In front of the museum
renamed Kota Kinabalu in @ # 9am5pm SatThu. & is a small but interesting
1967. Most of its historic 8 7 ^ - www.mzm.sabah. collection of vintage cars.
buildings were destroyed by gov.my The museum grounds also
bombing during the war and Opened in 1985, the Sabah contain a Heritage Village,
the city had to be completely Museum is set amid spacious which has excellent examples
rebuilt. Only three structures grounds, and is designed in of houses of Sabahs main
remain of the old town the the style of a Rungus long- indigenous groups. The Murut
Land and Survey building, the house. The museum has house features an unusual
General Post Office, and the several floors, with sections bouncing platform that is
Atkinson Clock, a 49-ft (15-m) on ethnography, natural his- used for communal dances.
tall timepiece built in 1905 tory, ceramics, history, and Talks on a range of topics
and named for the citys first archaeology. The ethnogra- can be arranged for visitors
district officer. Despite the phic exhibits are among the by prior request.
lack of historical landmarks,
the city has charm, with
friendly people, bustling
streets, and a good range of
accommodations, restaurants,
and bars. The city center is
small and easy to explore
around on foot. The citys
main attractions include the
lively seafront tamus, or
markets, such as the Filipino
Market, as well as the Sabah
Museum, and the State
Mosque. The new and larger
City Mosque, often referred to
as the Floating Mosque, was
built in 2000 beside Likas The majestic faade of the Sabah State Mosque
S A B A H 179
U Sabah State Mosque

Jalan Sembutan. @ # 811am &
24:30pm MonThu, 810:30am
& 2:304:30pm Fri, 811am & 2
4pm Sat & Sun.
Located close to the museum,
southwest of the city center,
this mosque is a striking exam-
ple of contemporary Islamic
architecture. Though set away
from the bustle of the city
center, its golden dome is vis-
ible from many parts of town.
The mosque, built in the late
1970s, is one of the largest in
Malaysia. It has a capacity of
over 5,000 worshipers, and Visitors arriving on Pulau Sapi in the Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park
has a separate section for
women to pray. While non- Tunku Abdul snorkeling, as well as a short
Muslims are permitted to go nature trail. The three other
inside (except during prayer Rahman National islands are clustered together
times), they should dress Park 2 a little farther south. Pulau
appropriately and remove Manukan, where the park
their shoes before entering. 2 miles (3 km) W of Kota Kinabalu. headquarters is located, is
g n Sabah Parks Office, Block K, the most popular of the five
Sinsuran Complex, Kota Kinabalu; islands, especially for day trips.
(088) 211-881. & 8 0 on Pulau This crescent-shaped islands
Manukan. on Pulau Gaya and facilities include a resort and
Manukan. permits from Sabah restaurant. Among the many
Parks Office. activities on offer are snorkel-
ing, glass-bottomed boat rides,
A short boat ride away from sea kayaking, and parasailing.
Kota Kinabalu, Tunku Abdul Scuba gear and underwater
Rahman National Park is made scooters can be hired on the
up of five beautiful islands that island. Pulau Manukan has
cover an area of 19 sq miles particularly good beaches
(50 sq km). Named for the on its eastern shore, but the
countrys first prime minister, large number of visitors and
the park was established in constant movement of boats
1974 to protect the fragile coral sometimes cause the reefs to
Bright exterior of the popular reefs around Pulau Gaya, Pulau become murky.
Filipino Market Sapi, Pulau Manukan, Pulau The last two islands are very
Mamutik, and Pulau Sulug. small and attract fewer visitors,
( Filipino market Several varieties of marine life and are therefore quieter.
Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens. @ thrive in these reefs, including Pulau Mamutik is the smallest
Central Market Jalan Tun Fuad parrotfish, clownfish, batfish, of the five islands, while Pulau
Stephens. and lionfish. Wildlife on the Sulug is the farthest, but both
Several bustling markets line islands include long-tailed have beautiful coral reefs and
the citys waterfront, the most macaques, bearded pigs, are popular with snorkelers.
interesting of which is the pangolins, and pied hornbills.
Filipino Market, also known as Pulau Gaya is the biggest
the Handicrafts Market, named of the five islands. Covered
for the Filipino immigrants in dense forest, it has about
who run most of the stalls. A 12 miles (20 km) of trails and
huge variety of souvenirs, dazzling white sand beaches
shells, baskets, and bags are such as Police Beach on the
available, though these are northeast coast. Although
not exclusively from the much of the coral around
Philippines. The market is also Pulau Gaya has been des-
a good place to buy cultured troyed by dynamite fishing,
pearls and traditional medi- the rest of the islands have
cines. Visitors should beware reefs teeming with marine life.
of pickpockets in the market. Just off the southwest tip of
Farther north is the Central Pulau Gaya, and linked to it by
Market, where vendors sell a a sandbar at low tide, Pulau
range of snacks such as grilled Sapi is tiny in comparison but
chicken and the local favorite has some lovely waters that Sunbathers on Pulau Manukan,
murtabak, a stuffed pancake. are ideal for swimming and Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park
Tambunan
Rafflesia Forest
Reserve 3
37 miles (60 km) E of Kota Kinabalu.
@ n (088) 774-691. # 8am
12:45pm, 25pm MonFri; 8am5pm
SatSun. 8
Located near the top of

the 5,410 ft (1,649 m) high
Sinsuron Pass in the Crocker
Mountain Range, the
Tambunan Rafflesia Forest
Reserve was set up to protect
the unique rafflesia flower.
The botanical name of the
commonest rafflesia, Rafflesia
arnoldi, is derived from Sir Proboscis monkeys, named for their long, drooping noses
Stamford Raffles, founder of
Singapore, and naturalist Dr. Klias Wetlands 4 are a relatively new attraction,
Joseph Arnold, who discov- but most tour companies in
ered it in Sumatra in 1818. 62 miles (100 km) SW of Kota Kota Kinabalu now offer boat
A 15-lb (7-kg) specimen was Kinabalu. @ to Kota Klias jetty. trips to these wetlands.
immediately sent back to the g tour boats from Kota Klias jetty. Although independent travel
Royal Society in London. This 8 from Kota Kinabalu. is possible, joining a tour
parasitic plant is pollinated by group is a preferred option.
carrion flies and emits a smell Located on a peninsula south
of rotting flesh to attract them. of Kota Kinabalu, the Klias
Its natural habitat is in moist, Wetlands are a mangrove Pulau Labuan 5
shaded areas. The flower forest interspersed with
takes about nine months to countless channels of the 5 miles (8 km) W of the Klias
bloom into the worlds largest Sungai Klias. It is among Peninsula. * 86,000. ~
flower, with brick-red petals Sabahs relatively new g n (087) 423-445.
and white dots. The display is attractions. Wildlife here is
short-lived as the petals begin rich and diverse so visitors Located off the southwest
to wilt within a few days. might spot several species of coast of Sabah, Pulau Labuan
As the blooming season is monkey, such as the silver- is a small island with a signi-
unpredictable and the rafflesia leaf and long-tailed macaque, ficant history. In 1846, the
flowers only for a few days in an amazing variety of birds, Sultan of Brunei ceded the
a year, visitors are advised to and swarms of fireflies that island to the British who were
enquire in advance if one is illuminate the riverside trees particularly keen to mine the
in bloom. The reserve has in the evenings. The real islands large coal deposits to
comprehensive information highlight of the wetlands, provide fuel for passing steam-
on the rafflesia and its habitat. however, is the chance to see ships. The island remained
Guides are available at the the unique proboscis monkey, a British territory for almost
information center, but are a species native to Borneo. 100 years, until it was overrun
mostly not necessary, since They are timid but can be by the Japanese at the begin-
the paths are well marked seen feeding on tender leaves ning of their occupation of
and staff can give directions. near the edge of the water. Borneo during World War II.
The monkeys are A few years later the Japanese
named for their surrendered here at the end
long, drooping of the war. In 1963, Pulau
noses that are parti- Labuan joined the Federation
cularly prominent of Malaysia. Today, the island
in males, often is a quiet, pleasant place, with
twice as large as the nice beaches and popular as
females. The males a duty-free shopping haven.
also have a bulbous Labuan Town is the main
belly. These distinc- settlement on the island. Just
tive features have north of Labuan is the An-Nur
earned the monkey Jamek Mosque, a distinctive,
the nickname orang futuristic structure. The Peace
belanda, meaning Park at Layang Layangan,
Dutchman, in some 2 miles (4 km) north of town,
parts of Borneo. contains a war memorial
Rafflesia, the worlds largest flower The Klias Wetlands which marks the site of the
S A B A H 181
Japanese surrender. An Allied Padas River 6

war cemetery on the east
coast has nearly 4,000 graves Pangi, near Tenom. @ to Beaufort
of Allied soldiers who lost from Kota Kinabalu, then by train.
their lives in Borneo. 8 from Kota Kinabalu.
The islands waters are
particularly popular among The Padas River weaves
divers, especially for wreck- through the southwest region
diving. Several World War II of Sabah, linking the small,
and other shipwrecks lie in quiet towns of Tenom and
the waters off Labuans coast. Beaufort. Known to be a
Dive operators org r anize visits turbulent river, it has flooded
to these interesting sites. The Beaufort several times. As a White-water rafting down the
Labuan Marine Park k is cen- result, shophouses in the turbulent Padas River
tered around Pulau Kuraman, town are now built on stilts.
a small island near the south Early photographs show the water level of the river
coast, accessible by boats from Beaufort resembling the creates Grade II and III rapids.
the Labuan jetty. A number canal city of Venice. The The access point for rafting
of activities such as diving, Padas River is popular as a trips on the Padas River is
sailing, fishing, and org
r anized destination for great white- at the town of Pangi, near
short jungle walks are offered water rafting (see p327). The Tenom, which can be reached
at the park. It also has some boulder-strewn river cuts by train from Beaufort. From
beautiful beaches, perfect for through lowland rainforest, Pangi, challenging rapids, with
picnics and sun-bathing. and between April and July, names such as Merry-Go-
Round, Washing Machine, and
Headhunter, tumble down-
stream. The river has several
gentle stretches as well, where
it is possible to hop out of the
raft and float downstream
with the current.
Rafting trips can be org
r a-
nized by tour companies in
Kota Kinabalu who brief
visitors well on safety proce-
dures. As well as rafting trips,
there is also the opportunity
to take a tour of the southwest
region of the state and ride
on Borneos only railway line
from Beaufort to Tenom,
tracing the Padas River and
Headstones of World War II soldiers at the Allied war cemetery in Labuan meandering through jungles.
THE NORTH BORNEO RAILWAY

A
When the British-run North Borneo Chartered Company began operating in the late 19th
century, its managing director, William Cowie, developed a plan for a trans-Borneo railway
stretching from Brunei Bay beside Pulau Labuan to Sandakan in the east of the province,
cutting through steep ranges and uncharted jungles. Construction began in 1896 and by 1905
a line had been built from Weston, on Brunei Bay, to Beaufort in the southwest, and from
there to both Jesselton, now known as Kota Kinabalu, and to Tenom, east of Beaufort. From
Tenom it was extended a further 10 miles (16
km) to Melalap, where work came to a halt
and was never continued. Cost of construction
was high, and the rice tax levied on locals to
pay for it resulted in rebellions against the
British. The Chartered Company then ensured
that the train paid for itself by refusing to
build roads connecting Tenom, Beaufort, and
Jesselton. The line still exists today, though
more as a curiosity. Trains from Kota Kinabalu
to Beaufort take about three hours, but it is
the stretch from Beaufort to Tenom that is
worth taking. Most trains are pulled by diesel
engines, though the Sutera Harbour Resort (see
p285) has put an old steam train in service. Tourists enjoying the view while on a train trip
T
while visitors soak up the smaller villages in the area

atmosphere and enjoy a that are taking part in the
hearty breakfast at one of local governments scheme
the many stalls. of One Village, One Product.
Just about anything one The program encourages the
can imagine is on sale, from communities to produce and
livestock, fruit, vegetables, market unique handmade
and meat to hand-crafted products and handicrafts
knives, musical instruments, made from locally available
bark waistcoats, and local material. The villagers, most
textiles. Tempting snacks of whom are part of the
and drinks are also on offer. Rungus minority, dedicate
R
Vendors are very friendly, their time to the industry of
and expect potential buyers beekeeping and the sale of
to haggle for their goods. honey and beeswax. Royal
The weekly tamu is busy jelly, a bee secretion which
from around 6am until is a good dietary supplement
early afternoon. and an ingredient in several
A stall displaying plants at the Tamu Besar, or the big beauty products, is also
weekly tamu in Kota Belud market, is an annual festive cultivated and sold here.
event at Kota Belud which Visitors are shown around
Kota Belud 7 is celebrated amid cultural the carefully-
y tended beehives
festivities and handicraft and can see how the bees
47 miles (75 km) N of Kota Kinabalu. demonstrations. The highlight are smoked out for the
* 73,000. @ ( Sun. _ Tamu of the market are the stalls of honeycombs to be removed.
Besar (Oct/Nov). horses for sale.
Traditionally-dressed Bajau
Located on fertile alluvial horsemen, commonly called Sumangkap 9
plains, Kota Belud is a quiet Cowboys of the East, pose for
town inhabited mainly by the crowds. The Bajau with 57 miles (92 km) N of Kota Kinabalu.
Bajau people, famed for their their resplendently dressed * 431. @ n (088) 615-714.
skill with horses. Gunung horses also display their # 8am6pm daily. & 8 =
Kinabalu dominates the land- unrivaled horse-riding skills
scape to the east. at the Tamu Besar. A short drive from Gombizau
The town itself is small is the village of Sumangkap,
and unassuming, except on which resounds with the
Sunday mornings when it Gombizau 8 beating of metal being made
springs to life during the into gongs and can thus
weekly tamu, or market. Held 56 miles (90 km) N of Kota Kinabalu. boast the highest decibel
at Jalan Hasbollah, a short dis- * 140. @ n (013) 854-9188 count in Sabah. One of the
tance from the town center, (cell). # 8:30am5:30pm daily. most important elements of
the tamu is the hub of local &8= Sabahan music, the gongs
trade and is as much a social feature in all traditional
event as a commercial one. Located up the coast from celebrations. These gongs
Local people from diverse Kota Belud on the Kudat are skilfully crafted by local
ethnic groups such as Chinese, Peninsula in the north of artisans. Set horizontally in
Indians, and Malay, come the province, Kampung frames or suspended verti-
together to sell their goods Gombizau is one of several cally, gongs come in all sizes,
Striking a massive gong in Kampung Sumangkap
S A B A H 183
from massive ones that are

6 ft (2 m) in diameter and
meant for use in temples, to
tiny ones sold as souvenirs.
Visitors can watch the gong-
makers at work, as they beat
out the raised center of an
aluminum sheet to give the
instrument its particular
resonance and timbre.
Bavanggazo 0
61 miles (98 km) N of Kota Kinabalu.
* 250. @ n (088) 621-971.
&8= Symbolic globe at the Tip of Borneo marking the islands northernmost point
The Rungus people, who live Kudat q Jalan Lo Thien Chock, has
in the region around Kudat, some attractive shophouses
have managed to maintain 118 miles (190 km) N of Kota and a colorful Chinese temple.
more of their traditions and Kinabalu. * 75,000. ~ @ About 4 miles (7 km) north of
A
culture than many other Ekspress minibus service from Kota town, the beach at Bak Bakk is
indigenous groups. A visit to Kinabalu. ( Sun. _ Pesta Kelapa. a popular picnic spot.
a longhouse in the village of
Bavanggazo, just off the road A small port sitting at the
from Kota Belud to Kudat, northern tip of Sabah, Kudat Tip of Borneo w
is an excellent opportunity to is inhabitated by a large
appreciate Rungus heritage. number of Chinese and 124 miles (200 km) N of Kota
The longhouses are aligned Filipino traders. Sheltered Kinabalu. @ Ekspress minibus
in an auspicious east-west by the Marudu Bay, the Kudat service from Kota Kinabalu. 8 -
direction, with outward slop- Peninsula was deemed suit-
ing walls to allow for maxi- able enough to be selected as The northernmost tip of
mum ventilation. One such the administrative capital of Borneo, known locally as
longhouse is Matunggung, British North Borneo in 1882. Tanjung Simpang Mangayau,
which features traditional However, the towns era of which means battle junction,
bamboo-slatted sides and a importance was short-lived, makes an excellent day trip
thatched roof, and contains as frequent pirate attacks and from Kota Kinabalu. Located
the living quarters of approxi- a lack of fresh water forced in the Kudat district, the tip
mately 100 families. the provincial capital to be can be reached after stopping
The Rungus are famed for shifted in 1883 to Sandakan off at the Gombizau bee
their beadwork, and visitors (seee p190). farm, at the gong village of
to the longhouse can usually There are not many sights Sumangkap, and along the
see women sitting on the in town, although a stroll way at the R Rungus longhouse
communal veranda crafting around the harbor, watching at Bavanggazo.
shoulder bands, necklaces, fishing boats come and go, A few miles before Kudat, a
and bracelets from multi- can be refreshing. A walk branch of the road forks to
colored beads, using motifs along the Sidek Esplanade the left, passing under tower-
from Rungus folklore. The around the bay is also rejuve- ing coconut palms and
older Rungus women wear nating. Kudats main street, leading directly to a lovely
brass coils as jewelry. They windswept promontory that
are also skilled textile weav- looks out over the South
ers, and use locally grown, China Sea to the west and
hand-spun cotton on simple the Sulu Sea to the east.
looms for their clothes. Just before the headland, the
Organized tours, which road passes behind a sandy
can be booked in Kota crescent shaded by casuarinas
Kinabalu, include a visit to to Kalampunian Beach, where
the villlages of Gombizau and the Irranun people sell colorful
Sumangkap as well as lunch shells. AAt the Tip of Borneo
at Bavanggazo. These tasty itself, a flagpole stands beside
meals are made with fresh a giant globe of the world.
vegetables from adjoining An inscription on the globe
fields. Visitors have the option recounts that Ferdinand
of staying overnight to attend Magellan spent 42 days here
a cultural performance of tradi- repairing his ship during his
tionally dressed dancers and Rock pools at Bak Bak Beach, circumnavigation of the world
gong players. north of Kudat between 1519 and 1522.
Kinabalu National Park e
A UNESCO World Heritage site, the 754-sq km (291-sq

mile) national park protects the environment around
Gunung Kinabalu. Popular for its trails and wildlife, the
park is home to 4,500 species of plants, including 1,500
varieties of orchids and nine types of pitcher plants.
Also found here are large mammals such
gibbons, and clouded leopard "SFBPGNBQ
*MMVTUSBUFE
the Kinabalu friendly warbler and the b
whistler, and a dazzling variety o ,JBV

V -PIBO
b
At its southeast corner lies Porrin b

,VOEBTBOH
place to relax after the rigors of the parks trails.
FT
. Gunung Kinabalu
At a towering 13,455 ft (4,101 m b
the mountain offers unrivaled

views from its summit. A reason
able degree of fitness is essential for
attempting the climb ((see pp186 b
The Bukit Tupai Trail, an easy 30-min

ute walk, leads up to a ridgetop wi
excellent views of Kinabalus summm

b
BSL Q
)
K
The botanical
H
of plants from the mountai
ra
ing a stroll around the grounds both
0 miles 3
informative and enjoyable.
. Silau Silau Trail

This 50-minute
walk along the
STAR
T SIGHTS length of the Silau
Silau stream, from
. Gunung Kinabalu its source to its
confluence with
. Silau Silau Trail Sungai Liwagu,
. Poring Hot Springs is excellent for
bird-watching.
K I N A B A L U N A T I O N A L PA R K 185
. Poring Hot VISITORS CHECKLIST

Springs
Fed by mineral 37 miles (60 km) NE of Kota
waters, these springs Kinabalu. @ n Kota Kinabalu
Resorts, 15 First Floor, Wisma
have been developed
Sabah (088) 243629. & 0
into public and Kinabalu Botanical Garden
private baths. The site # daily. 8 9am, 12noon, 3pm.
t (150
rds-
t.
FLORA AND FAUNA

One of the richest areas in species diversity,
the parks attractions include such mammals
as tarsiers, squirrels, and tree shrews, birds
such as hornbills, partridges, and mountain
blackbirds, as well as a long list of colorful
butterflies and beetles. The park is also hom
to several varieties of rare and exotic flora,
including the extraordinary rafflesia ((see p18
Tarsiers are
recognized by
long feet and larg
They are no
primates tha
insects, birds, and snakes.
Pitcher plants, which are one of

the prime attractions of Kinabalu Slipper orchids are named for their
National Park, are carnivorous bright slipper-
r-shaped pouches that
plants that attract and trap attract pollinating insects. These
insects with their bright pig- delicate plants are fast becoming
ments and sweet nectar. an uncommon sight.
Climbing Gunung Kinabalu

The climb to the summit of Gunung Kinabalu begins at
the power station, just above Park Headquarters. There
is an alternative route, longer but less steep, which starts
at
Th
th
fo
th
th
m
w
fro
be
es lofty
99 ft
Th
Fr
su
ta S
Ha
tri
.FNQFOJOH
6CBI 4IFMUFS
5JNQPIPO
Rh
Fo
(1
(2
co
rh
th
rh
For
K I N A B A L U N A T I O N A L PA R K 187
LOWS PEAK
The highest peak
of Gunung Kinabalu,
Lows Peak is named
for Sir Hugh Low, a
naturalist and British
Colonial Secretary
on Pulau Labuan.
Ironically, he never
stood on its summit
despite three
attempts during the
1850s. On his second Sir Hugh Low
attempt, in 1858, he
was accompanied by Spenser St. John, the
British Consul in Brunei, who made it to the
Gunung Kinabalu. top of South Peak only to see other peaks
around it that stood still higher. It was not
until 1888 that John Whitehead, a zoologist,
conquered the highest peak while collecting
FT new species of birds and mammals, some of
which are also named for Sir Hugh Low.
Hut
aban
t
o 60
s. It
ews
pper
ys
CLIMBING THE
g light, but
otion, sun-
b
I M glasses, and a flashlight. Warm, waterproof clothing is a must.
n Rata and
b
dquarters
4IFMUFS modation
M100),
6 per kilo).
rs,
Q rail from
od
Sipadan
Sandakan r Next door, another slice of

colonial memorabilia, the
250 miles (400 km) E of Kota English Tea House is a refresh-
Kinabalu. * 12,500. ~ @ ing stop for tired visitors.
n (089) 229-751. For many, the most moving
sight in town is the Sandakan
Lying on the northern edge Memorial Park, about 7 miles
of Sandakan Bay, Sandakan is (12 km) east of the town cen-
sandwiched between a steep ter. In 1944, over 2,000 Allied
escarpment and the Sulu Sea. British and AAustralian prisoners
During the late 18th century, of the Japanese POW camp
exports of timber, pearls, birds were marched to Ranau near
nests, and hornbill ivory made Gunung Kinabalu. Only six
Sandakan a wealthy town. It Australians survived. The small
A
became the administrative museum in the park, built by
capital of North Borneo the AAustralian government, is a
between 1884 and 1942, but grim reminder of the tragedy.
was bombed out of existence P Agnes Keiths House
Orangutans at the Sepilok
by the end of World War II, Jalan Istana. # daily. & Orangutan Rehabilitation Center
like Kota Kinabalu. Much of
P Sandakan Memorial Park
the modern town is built on entrance to Sepilok is the
7 miles (12 km) E of Sandakan.
reclaimed land, but its indis- # daily. 8
Nature Education Center
criminate architecture of con- which provides an insightful
crete grids lacks the sense of introduction to all that goes
space of Kota Kinabalu. These on behind the scenes, and
days, trade is focused on palm Sepilok Orangutan also periodically screens a
oil and cocoa crops. short video on orangutans.
There is little to interest Rehabilitation A short walk from here are
visitors in the center of town, Center t two feeding stations where
though the waterfront is lively the animals are fed fruit and
with the constant movement 14 miles (23 km) E of Sandakan. milk twice a day.
of barges and ferries, and a Tell (089) 531-180. @ # 9am After registering at the recep-
A
daily fish market which is 12:30pm, 24:30pm daily. Feeding tion, visitors can follow several
the biggest in Sabah. On the timess are 10am3pm.
&- walking trails that lead through
escarpment behind the town the forest. But there are strict
center is an Observation One of only four orangutan restrictions against approach-
Pavilion that offers a spec- sanctuaries in the world, ing or touching the animals.
tacular view across the town Sepilok was established in
and the harbor front. 1964 and is today one of
Overlooking the pavilion Sabahs most popular attrac- Turtle Island
is a well-preserved colonial tions. Occupying 17 sq miles National Park y
building known as Agnes (43 sq km) of lowland rain
Keiths House. An American forest, the center was set up to 25 miles (40 km) N of Sandakan.
author who lived here in the care for orphaned and injured g from Sandakan. n Crystal
1930s, Agnes Keith wrote animals, and teach them the Quest, 12th floor, Wisma Khoo
several books on Sabah and its skills needed to survive inde- Siak Chiew, Sandakan,
culture. The house has ornate pendently. The center aims to (089) 212-711. & 8 0 on
furnishings and wooden floor- eventually reintroduce the Pulau Selingan.
ing, and the authors study still orangutans into their natural www.sabahparks.org.my
exudes an aura of tranquility. habitat. Located at the
The three small islands of
Selingan, Bakungan Kecil,
and Gulisan constitute this
turtle sanctuary, commonly
known as the Pulau Penyu
National Park, where green
and hawksbill turtles come
ashore to nest.
The most rewarding time
to visit the Turtle Island
National Park is between July
and October when visitors
are most likely to see these
creatures lay their eggs in
the sand. Booking in advance
is necessary. Vigilant rangers
transfer the hatchlings to
The impressive Agnes Keiths House, home of the American writer nurseries, from where they
S A B A H 191
are regularly released into corridor for wildlife in the Gomantong

the sea. Sadly, the chance of
survival for each hatchling is
country. A unique feature
of the river are the oxbow
Caves o
only about one in a clutch lakes set back from the main 68 miles (110 km) S of Sandakan.
of 100 eggs, as they often course, creating abundant @ from Sandakan. n (089) 230-
fall prey to poachers as well habitats for the diverse flora 189. # 8amnoon, 24:30 pm.
as natural predators. and fauna. Much of this area &8-
The park also nurtures an has been designated as the
interesting variety of flora Kinabatangan Wildlife The limestone caves of
such as mangroves, lantana, Sanctuary. It is easily visited Gomantong are the largest
the yellow-flowered sophora, on a day trip from Sandakan, caves in Sabah and home
and the furry-leaved tourne- but staying overnight in the to a remarkable population
fortia among others. nearby town of Sukau enables of swiftlets and bats. Locals
visitors to take a boat ride clamber up slender bamboo
along the river in the early poles to harvest swiftlet nests,
Pulau Lankayan u morning, the best time to spot which are the prime ingredient
wildlife. Sungai Menungal, a for birds-nest soup, a deli-
50 miles (80 km) N of Sandakan. small tributary that joins the cacy in Chinese cuisine.
g from Sandakan. n Pulau Kinabatangan just above The two main caves are
Sipadan Resorts, 484 Bandar Sukau, is a particularly success- Simud Hitam, or black cave,
Sabindo, Tawau; (089) 765-200. ful spot for wildlife sightings. and Simud Putih, or white
8 0 www.lankayan- Proboscis monkeys, a species cave, both of which are
island.com common in Borneo, and difficult to get to. However,
macaques that feed high up visitors can venture into
Just a 90-minute boat ride in the trees, are among the Simud Hitam aided by a
from Sandakan, Lankayan highlights. Visitors are almost boardwalk to avoid wading
is a teardrop-shaped island, certain to see a wide range through ankle-deep bat guano
surrounded by dazzling white of reptiles such as crocodiles, which collects on the cave
beaches and stunning coral and birds such as the hornbill, floor. Most tours of the
reefs. It is visited mostly by oriental darter, and the blue- caves include a trip down
divers for its colorful world eared kingfisher. Sungai Kinabatangan.
of marine life, and, with only
one resort, the place is rarely
crowded. Some of the species
that divers might spot around
the Lankayan shipwreck, one
of the many dive sites near the
island, are glassfish, painted
frogfish, and marble stingrays.
Gazing into the waters from
the jetty, visitors can often see
black-tip sharks, especially in
the months of April and May.
Lankayan is a part of the Sugud
Islands Marine Conservation
Area, and its lush tropical vege-
tation is also worth a mention.
The island is covered with
screwpine (Pandanus
amaryllifolins), which has a
bloom resembling a pineapple.
Kinabatangan
Wildlife
Sanctuary i
84 miles (135 km) S of Sandakan.
@ from Sandakan. g along
Sungai Kinabatangan. & 8
in Sukau.
Sungai Kinabatangan is
Sabahs longest river at 348
miles (560 km) and its lower
reaches, bordered by dense
forests, provide the largest The entrance into Simud Hitam at Gomantong Caves
Tabin Wildlife spotted often rustling about

Reserve p in treetops by the lodge. A
steep 2-mile (3-km) climb
137 miles (220 km) SE of Sandakan. leads to an ancient Kadazan
@ from Lahad Datu. n (089) 821- Dusun burial site, high up in
060. # 8am6pm daily. & a cliff-top cave. The site
8 organized by Tabin Wildlife contains old coffins and offers
Resort, Tell (088) 261-558. a spectacular view over the
www.tabinwildlife.com.my Segama River Valley.
Established as a protected
area in 1984, the 473-sq mile Semporna s
(1,225-sq km) Tabin Wildlife
Reserve is one of the last 209 miles (336 km) SE of Sandakan.
remaining habitats of the * 150,000. @ _ Regatta
critically endangered Sumatran (Mar/Apr).
rhinoceros. Comprised mostly Wild bearded pigs rooting for food
of secondary growth rain in the Danum Valley With most of its houses
forest, this is a conservation perched on wooden piles
zone for several other wildlife lowland rainforest, one of the over the water, Semporna is
species as well, including most complex ecosystems, a town juxtaposed between
endangered Borneo pygmy ele- which is why it features high land and sea. This pictur-
phants, giant flying squirrels, on most nature-lovers itine- esque fishing town hovers
orangutans, and several bird raries on their visit to Sabah. over an ancient coral reef that
species including hornbills. The surrounding logging supports a diverse variety of
Activities organized by the concession, run by the Sabah fish, soft corals, sponges,
reserve in collaboration with Foundation, which has now anemones, echinoderms,
Tabin Wildlife Resort are excit- been mostly reforested, acts and mollusks.
ing ways to spot wildlife and as a buffer zone for the fan- The inhabitants are mainly
include jungle walks, night tastic range of wildlife. Visitors the Bajau, a seafaring people
safaris, and bird-watching trips. are likely to spot elephants, who fish in the Celebes Sea
The reserve offers visitors barking deer, and slow loris to earn their living using deli-
challenging walking trails, one on several guided walks along cately carved, traditional boats
of which leads to a waterfall nature trails. Among the birds called lipa lipa, which they
that plunges into a river which that are visible in this region adorn with bright sails and
is good for a swim. Another are the great argus pheasant, colorful festoons.
trail leads to a cluster of low, the rhinoceros hornbill, and Semporna is frequented by
mud volcanoes. the crimson sunbird. Most visitors who use it as a base
visitors stay at the Borneo for diving and snorkeling day
Rainforest Lodge (see p284), trips to the offshore islands of
Danum Valley a by Sungai Danum, where a Mabul and Sipadan (see pp194
network of trails offer multiple 5). Of the many island desti-
50 miles (80 km) W of Lahad Datu. options for exploring the area. nations that skirt the town of
from Lahad Datu. n (088) The ideal time to observe Semporna, the volcanic island
881-092. 8 mandatory. wildlife is early morning and of Pulau Bohey Dulang, also
evening, when even the most the site of a Japanese pearl
Covering an area of 168 sq cautious of animals, such as culture station, is popular. The
miles (438 sq km), Danum bearded pigs, emerge to root cliff-fringed Bohey Dulang is
Valley is a conservation
r area for food, while orangutans frequented by adventure
that consists of primary and Bornean gibbons can be lovers who trek up its highest
Traditional stilt buildings in the harbor in Semporna
S A B A H 193
due to its inaccessibility and

diversity of plant and animal
life. This is a trip for enthu-
siasts as facilities offered to
visitors are very basic.
Tawau Hills State

Park g
15 miles (24 km) N of Tawau.
from Tawau. n (089) 753-564.
# 7am6pm daily. &
A lush stretch of low hills and

thick mossy rainforest, Tawau
Ferry passengers disembarking at Tawau Hills State Park was estab-
lished here in 1979 to protect
peak for stunning views of visitors to see the stages of the watershed of the Tawau,
the surrounding islands. The processing cacao beans to Merotai, Kinabutan, Mantri,
area around Semporna has chocolate. Palm oil is culti- and Balung rivers.
intrigued archaeologists since vated even more extensively Occupying about 104 sq
the discovery of stone tools at in Tawau, and plantations of miles (270 sq km), the park
nearby Tingkayu, which pre- its fan-like fronds are scattered is a favorite among birders.
date similar implements found around the state of Sabah. The blue-banded kingfisher,
in the region by 10,000 years. Tawau faces Kalimantan wattled pheasant, blue-headed
across the strait and has a pitta, and the Bornean wren-
high percentage of Indonesian babbler can be spotted here.
Pulau Sipadan d and Filipino residents. While Sightings of monkeys are
there are some squalid areas, also common.
See pp1945. the town center is a tidy The highest hill is the 4,268
lend of traditional ft (1,300 m) high Gunung
wooden shophouses Magdalena. A lower peak,
Tawau f and modern concrete Bombalai Hill, just 1,739 ft
blocks. The cheerful (530 m) high, is an extinct
223 miles (360 km) S of treet markets offer a volcano that can be reached
Sandakan. * 178,000. wide mix of goods such following a half-hour trail
~ @ ( Tawau Central herbs, vegetables, from the park headquarters.
Market, daily. _ Tawau hes, and toys sold by A 3-hour trek leads to some
Cultural Carnival (Mar). p mobile traders. Tawaus hot springs and Table
www.sabahtourism.com fish market is always Waterfall, where the crystal
busy, and exotic seafood is clear river makes for a good
Tawau sits on the coast in available at the open-air stalls swimming spot.
the extreme southeast of seen all over town. Being so close to a big
Sabah. It is a transport hub Tawau is the jumping-off town, this park is very
and a transit point for visitors point for trips to the Maliau popular and gets crowded
heading toward Semporna Basin to the west, which is during weekends, making a
and the offshore islands of dubbed Sabahs lost world mid-week visit advisable.
Sipadan (see pp1945).
This bustling port began
life as a modest Bajau settle-
ment, but in 1878 the British
North Borneo Company,
attracted by the fine natural
harbor and rich volcanic soil
found in the region, settled in
Tawau. They shipped in ele-
phants from Burma to assist
with logging in the forest.
Timber has always been
the prime produce of this
town, although the rich soil
also sustains plantations of
rubber, coconut, cocoa, and
palm oil. In fact, Tawau is
the cocoa capital of Borneo,
and the cocoa estate at
nearby Quoin Hill admits Air Tejun Galas Falls, Tawau Hills State Park
Pulau Sipadan d
Rated among the worlds top five dive

sites, Pulau Sipadan is a limestone spire
rising about 1,970 ft (600 m) from the
sea-bed. Fringed with white and sandy
beaches, the island is surrounded by a
stunning coral reef teeming with over
3,000 species of marine life, including
colorful butterflyfish, angelfish, and
bright orange and electric blue damsel-
fish. Sightings of sharks, barracudas,
turtles, and manta rays are also common
in the waters around the reef. . Tu
The e ,"1"-"*
underwater cave stacked wit
the sk
hawksbill turtles that drifted into it
and n
. The Drop Off

Just east of the
Sipadan jetty,
the Drop Off is
g
a seemingly en
wall of rock cov
ered with seve
species of cora
and sponges.
Diving Trips
Several tour operators arrange all-day dives as well as
diving expeditions. Qualified personnel accompany visito
on each diving trip.

Hanging Gardens
The reef descends gradually to
a depth of 230 ft (70 m), where
terraces covered with alcyona-
rian and gorgonian
r fan corals
form the Hanging Gardens.
STAR SIGHTS
. Turtle Cavern
. The Drop Off
. White-Tip Avenue
g
S A B A H 195
Barracuda Point VISITORS CHECKLIST

The site is named
21 miles (35 km) S of Semporna.
for the spectacular
g from Semporna. 8 Borneo
spirals of blacktail Sea Adventures 8A Karamun-
and chevron sing Warehouse, Kota Kinabalu;
barracuda that (088) 230-000. available at
come here to feed Semporna, and Mabul and
along a wall that Kapalai islands. Best time to
harbors turtles and visit Apr Aug, when visibility is
parrotfish. up to 98 ft (30 m).
. White-Tip Avenue
A gap in the coral reef, White-Tip Avenue is
frequented by white-tip sharks and gray reef
sharks. Divers may encounter a school of
bigeye trevallies and bumphead parrotfish.
Turtle Patch
This site offers frequent sightings of hammerhead
and thresher sharks, triggerfish, bumphead
parrotfish, and the green and hawksbill turtles
that are commonly seen around Sipadan.
for experienced
KEY
for frequent
merhead sharks Ferry route
Ferry port
Beach
Dive sites
Staghorn Crest
This is a drop-off dive site with a
fabulous garden of giant staghorn
corals teeming with shoals of gobies,
groupers, angelfish, and triggerfish.
Currents can be strong here and
divers need to be careful.
SINGAPORE
AREA BY AREA
INTRODUCING SINGAPORE 198205

THE COLONIAL CORE AND
CHINATOWN 206223
LITTLE INDIA AND ORCHARD ROAD 224235
FARTHER AFIELD 236245
SHOPPING IN SINGAPORE 246251
ENTERTAINMENT IN SINGAPORE 252255
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES IN SINGAPORE 256257
SINGAPORE STREET FINDER 258267
198 S I N G A P O R E A R E A B Y A R E A
A PORTRAIT OF SINGAPORE
T
he small city-state of Singapore is bustling, cosmopolitan,
rendy, modern, and plays a part on the worlds financial and
political stage that seems disproportionate to its size. Its varied
traditions and intriguing mix of the old and new (in its people and way
of life) make Singapore a great multicultural city in the truest sense.
Located at the tip of the Malay Kuan Y Yew from its inception in the
Peninsula on the Strait of Malacca, 1960s right up to the 1990s. Even
Singapore consists of one with the presence of an active
large island encircled by opposition, a one-party
several smaller islets. system has prevailed on the
Gleaming high-rise build- whole. While critics deem it
ings and a fascinating diversity autocratic, the party is seen as
of foliage are crammed into having been instrumental in
Pink orchid Vanda
V Miss
a tiny area of just 269 sq m Joaquim, the national helping Singapore become
(697 sq km), some of it flower of Singapore the super-developed, mod-
reclaimed land. Humidity ern nation that it is today.
and heavy downpours define its Singaporeans give credit to Lee Kuan
climate; showers are so sudden that Yew who has enjoyed unrivaled
the umbrella is a regular accessory. popularity as a nation builder.
When Sir Stamford Raffles of the
British East India Company landed on THE ECONOMY
its shores in 1819, Singapore was little Singapore has a highly successful and
more than a nondescript fishing transparent economy. Despite
village. However, the town soon went accusations of the government having
on to become a British stronghold. too many stakes in the market, the
After gaining independence from the economy is believed to be among the
British, Singapore was incorporated most powerful in the world, chiefly
into the Federation of Malaysia in because of government efficiency, the
1963, and went on to become a exceptional infrastructure, minimal
wholly independent nation in 1965. corruption, and a skilled workforce.
GOVERNMENT AND
POLITICS
Singapore is a democratic
republic that follows the
British parliamentary
system, with a govern-
ment led by a prime
minister. Political affairs
have long been domi-
nated by the Peoples
Action Party, which was
led by statesman Lee Towering skyscrapers dominate Singapores skyline
T
Singapore citys business district with SIngapore River in the foreground

I N T R O D U C I N G S I N G A P O R E 199
Singapores economy thrives

on the electronics and
chemical sectors, as well as
business and financial ser-
vices. Due to its strategic
location linking the mainland
and the islands of Southeast
Asia with the rest of the world,
Singapore has the busiest
port in the region. Canned
food, biotechnology, rubber
processing, and, lately, tourism
have emerged as other key
revenue generating industries. Ornately dressed performers of the Chinese opera
PEOPLES, LANGUAGES, AND racial riots of the 1960s, society has

RELIGIONS been considerably harmonized, with
Singapore is a country of immigrants, the gover nment making every
with a multiracial ethnicity comprising possible effort to keep it so.
mainly 77 percent Chinese, 14 percent
Malay, and 7.6 percent Indians, with CULTURE AND THE ARTS
a small number of Western expatri- The arts flourish in this diverse city.
ates. Ethnic neighborhoods, the norm Chinese opera and drama, Western
in the 19th century, have given way classical music, Indian classical dance
to government-provided public hous- forms, and English theater are all part
ing. Old enclaves that have been left of local culture, and several theater
behind are now used only for shop- and dance ensembles keep Malay
ping or entertainment that is unique culture alive. However, government
to that particular community. The censorship is rigid; each performance
cultural heritage of the British colo- needs a seal of approval before being
nialists is also deeply woven into the shown to the public. A plethora of
Singaporean lifestyle. museums, festivals, and religious
Malay, Chinese, English, and Tamil places complement the visual arts.
are all official languages in Singapore. Food is an integral part of
The unique Singlish a patois that Singaporean culture, and eating out is
combines English with considered the best way
Malay and Chinese words of socializing. Although
and intonation is under- Chinese, Indian, and
stood by most resident Malay flavors dominate,
Singaporeans but rarely inter national cuisine
by visitors. ranging from African to
Except for certain Eastern European is also
radical groups that are widely available. Being a
banned, religion is freely food haven has added to
practiced. Mahayana the popularity of this
Buddhism is the most gateway between the
common, followed by East and the West, and it
Islam, Christianity, and Worshipers at Sri
remains as alluring today
Hinduism. Since the Mariamman Temple
T as it was centuries ago.
SINGAPORE THROUGH THE YEAR

S ingapores multicultural heritage
has resulted in a calendar studded
with holidays and vibrant festi-
vals, both secular and religious. Many
of the religious festivals are based on
as Chinese New Y Year and Hari Raya
Puasa, are celebrated with pomp and
pageantry all over the island, others
are quieter local market and temple
affairs. Visitors are welcome in temples
the lunar calendar (see p333), so their and mosques as long as customs are
dates vary annually. Check with the respected. Other cultural events such
Singapore Tourism Board for exact as the Singapore Arts Festival further
timings. While some festivities, such add to the years festivities.
death, of the Buddha on this

day. Monks chant prayers at
packed Buddhist temples
and caged birds are set free
to symbolize kindness. In the
evening, candlelit processions
set out from the temples.
Thian Hock Keng Temple
(see pp2223) is a good
place to see celebrations.
Singapore Arts Festival (May/
Jun). Organized by the
National Arts Council, this
premier arts festival has a
captivating program of local,
Paying respect to elders on Hari Raya Puasa regional, and international
art, drama, dance, and music.
dancers, floats, and other Dragon Boat Festival and
JANUARY TO MARCH multicultural performers Boat Race (Jun). This festival
travels down Orchard Road. commemorates the death of
Ponggal (Jan/Feb). A Tamil Qing Ming Festival (Mar/ the 4th-century Chinese poet
(south Indian) harvest Apr). Chinese families visit Qu Y Yuan, who drowned
festival celebrated at temples temples and ancestral graves himself in protest against
such as the Sri Srinivasa to clean and restore them. political corruption. It is said
Perumal Temple (see pp230 Red candles and joss sticks that people searched for him
31). Rice is cooked in new are lit and offerings of rice, in boats, beating drums and
pots and allowed to boil wine, and flowers are made. throwing rice dumplings into
over to symbolize prosperity. the water to distract the fish
It is then offered to the gods from attacking his body.
as thanksgiving. Today, international teams
Thaipusam (Jan/Feb). A compete in dragon-shaped
Hindu festival of penance boats to honor this event.
in honor of Lord Murugan. Drums are still beaten and
Male devotees carry kavadis, rice dumplings wrapped
or steel arches, anchored in bamboo leaves are the
to their skin with hooks, in festivals traditional snack.
a long colorful procession
from the Sri Srinivasa
Perumal Temple to the JULY TO SEPTEMBER
Chettiar Temple (see p217).
Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb). Great Singapore Sale (May/
This vibrant Chinese festival Jun). Shops throughout the
is a two-week celebration island hold sales during this
culminating with Chap Goh Lion dance performance during period the discounts can be
Mei, marked by a final dinner the Chinese New Year extremely enticing (see p247).
and prayers. Chinatown is National Day (Aug 9).
ablaze with lights and packed Singapores Independence
with shoppers. APRIL TO JUNE Day is celebrated with a
Chingay Parade (Jan/Feb). spectacular show at the
Part of the New Year
Y Vesak day (May/Jun). Padang. The highlights
festivities, a grand, colorful Buddhists commemorate the include military parades, an
parade of stiltwalkers, lion birth, enlightenment, and airforce flypast, and cultural
performances, with a laser

and fireworks display as a
final flourish.
Festival of the Hungry
Ghosts (Aug/Sep). The
Chinese believe that during
the seventh lunar month,
souls of the dead return to
earth to feast. Joss sticks,
red candles, and paper
money are burnt, and lavish
feasts and dramatic Chinese
street operas, wayang (see
p254), are held to appease
the spirits.
Mid-Autumn Festival (Aug/
Sep). The full moon on the
15th day of the eighth month
in the Chinese calendar is
celebrated with mooncakes
and lanterns. Traditionally a
thanksgiving for a bountiful Lantern competition at the Chinese Garden during Mid-Autumn Festival
harvest, the festival also com-
memorates a 14th-century Deepavali (Oct/Nov). The During this festival, many
Chinese patriot who is said Hindu festival of lights marks devotees also make a pil-
to have hidden notes to his Lord Krishnas victory over grimage to the temple of
companions in mooncakes Narakasura a triumph of Tua Pek Kong on Kusu
while trying to overthrow good over evil. Homes and Island (Turtle Island).
the Y
Yuan Dynasty. temples are decorated with Christmas (25 Dec). From
Mooncakes, pastries filled oil lamps to attract Lakshmi, November onwards, Orchard
with lotus seeds or red bean the goddess of prosperity, Road is transformed into
paste, and sometimes a duck and Little India dazzles with a stunning stretch of fairy
egg, are sold in hotels and lights and decorations. The lights and Christmas decora-
in Chinatown, and children precise date is established tions. Shops and hotels join
parade with brightly-colored each year according to the in the festivities. Christmas is
lanterns. A lantern display Indian almanacs. celebrated in the traditional
and competition are held at Thimithi Festival (Oct/Nov). way, with late-night mass,
the Chinese Garden. A festival procession begins carols, and presents.
at the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Hari Raya Haji (variable).
Temple and makes its way to A festival in honor of those
OCTOBER TO DECEMBER the Sri Mariamman Temple Muslims who have made the
(see p218) where devotees pilgrimage to Mecca. It is
Hari Raya Puasa (variable). prove the strength of their marked by animal sacrifices
A day of celebration for the faith by walking barefoot and prayers at mosques.
Muslim community to mark across a stretch of burning
the end of Ramadan, the hot coals. PUBLIC HOLIDAYS A
Muslim holy month. Areas Festival of the Nine Emperor
such as Sultan Mosque and Gods (Oct/Nov). A nine-day Local festivals follow
Arab Street (see p228) come festival in honor of the Nine the lunar calendar, and
alive with festivities. Emperor Gods, thought to the dates are variable.
bring good luck
and longevity, is New Years Day (Jan 1)
celebrated at Kiu Hari Raya Puasa (variable)
Ong Yiah Temple
on Upper Chinese New Year (Jan/
Serangoon Road. Feb)
Prayers, feasts, Hari Raya Haji (variable)
and Chinese opera Good Friday (Mar/A
/ pr)
performances are
followed by a Labor Day (May 1)
procession of the Vesak Day (May/Jun)
nine gods seated National Day ((Aug 9)
on elaborate
chairs, led by tem- Deepavali (Oct/Nov)
ple mediums with Christmas Day (Dec 25)
Offerings at the family altar during Deepavali swords and whips.
SINGAPORE AT A GLANCE
W hile most of Singapores
attractions lie at the heart of
the city, south of the island, its
compactness and efficient infrastruc-
ture make it easy to visit the outer
skyscrapers, glitzy shopping malls,
museums, and contemporary entertain-
ment, a traditional Singapore survives
beneath its glossy exterior. At its core
is a multicultural heritage, revealed in
reaches. The north, west, and east are the timeless elegance of colonial
studded with older suburbs, nature architecture, Chinatowns shophouses,
reserves, and historic sites. Despite and the uniquely juxtaposed temples,
being a model modern metropolis with mosques, and churches.
SINGAPORES TOP TEN ATTRACTIONS
Raffles Hotel
See pp21415 Orchard Road
See pp2325
Chinatown
See pp21823 Little India Singapore Botanic Gardens
See pp22431 See pp24041
Singapore Zoological Sentosa Chijmes

Gardens See pp2445 See p212
See p238
Boat Quay Fort Canning Park

See p221 See p217
The unmistakable colonial architecture and simple elegance of Raffles Hotel

The Singapore River

The Singapore River winds through the UOB Plazas
heart of the main city and has long entrance lobby is
been the hub of its life and commerce. embellished with
Flanked by the towering skyscrapers sculptures by Dali
of the nancial district on the south- and Botero.
Boteros Bird
sculpture ern bank and the stately colonial
buildings on the northern bank,
the river is lined with leafy walkways, shops,
and eateries. River cruises depart from several
piers along the bank.
Cavenag
Signs r
carr
on
half-
mbol
pore
e river
s into
Bay. Raffles Landing Site
A plaque below a poly-
marble statue of Raffles
marks the site of his
original landing in 1819
Anderson Bridge Parliament Complex

This bridge was built in 1910 Opened in 1999, the new Parliament House
to relieve the increasing complements the Victorian style of the original
traffic on Cavenagh Bridge. parliament building (see p211), dating to 1827.
Boat Quay
Bars and
restaurants bring
new life to the
restored row of
old trading houses
lining the southern
bank of the river
(see p221).
Clarke Quay
Elgin Bridge Refurbished warehouses form a colorful
The present bridge was built backdrop to this lively shopping and
n 1929 on the site of the first eating area (see p217).
ne across the river, and is
Swissotel Merchant
med for Lord Elgin, then Court Hotel
Riverside
ernor General of India. Point is a
shopping
alk Galleria is a mall that
mplex. A leads to
Merchant
Square and
Central Mall.
leman Bridge
This bridge was named for George
D. Coleman, the architect who designed
much of Singapores urban landscape.
S I N G A P O R E A R E A B Y A R E A 207
THE COLONIAL CORE AND

CHINATOWN
Sir Stamford Raffles city plan of the river lies the flourishing Central
1822 designated the sou District, also known
river as the commercial Golden Shoe due to its
and reserved the north fo aped district boundary.
istrative offices. This north the business district lies
is known today as the wn. As trading houses
Core. It is the heart of do w along the south bank in
town Singapore and is the 19th century, coolies
dotted with historical and Chinese merchants
landmarks. The Padang settled in the area and
and Fort Canning Park Raffles officially allo-
are focal points of this cated it to the commu-
area and have witnessed major events nity. It is characterized by distinctive
in Singapores history. To the south of shophouses, temples, and markets.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Streets, Buildings, Cathedral of the GETTING THERE
and Monuments Good Shepherd q The MRT goes to both the
Ann Siang Hill d Chettiar Temple y Colonial Core and Chinatown.
Boat Quay k St. Andrews Cathedral 6 Take bus numbers 7, 14, 16,
Chijmes 9 106 or 111 to the Colonial Core.
Sri Mariamman Temple o
Bus numbers 124, 143, 174 and
Chinatown Heritage Center i Thian Hock Keng Temple 190 go to Chinatown.
Clarke Quay u pp2223 h
Lau Pa Sat g .
*%
45
Old Parliament House 5 %

5
-
/
4
&
-&
0
0
0
Raffles Hotel pp21415 8

3-
$0
4
3
30
&
0
"5
/
5
&&
" $)
4
#&
Raffles Landing Site 1

8
# %
"
6
0
30
// */( $ "% 3
3
2
3*
"
$" "
%
0
4 :
35 N
$5
Raffles Place j
"
30
"
'0
/
8
7*
/*
"%
#
3
H
"
"
)
/( 3*4&
%
30
4"
)
*(
Tanjong Pagar
$0
"$
)

)
,

5"/
9
3%
--
'035 3
#&
Conservation Area s
&
5 45 0
45 *"/
5&
(
$"//*/(
$0
". "
P
*%
.
&3
1"3, < % "

/
'0
%
#3

&7 ,
/*
.&
Telok Ayer Street f

3
"3
3%
6- "4&
4&,
"$
&
3
"3
"7
%
#0 &.
)
3* K $0
&
Temple Street p
35
"6
7&
5
-& 3"
4 $JUZ)BMM 4
7&
." $JUZ)
$JUZ
"7&
3
/0
''
$&
-*/ &
7 / -&
'-
3*
"-
&/
Victoria Theater and 4

4
L 45
8
3 "'
-& #06-&7
&%
&.
I) "3%
$-
%3
:
4"* 063 #0
"% 3&
"3
30
$-
Concert Hall 4
"%
*(
30 "/%
&
3&4#3*%(&&
(&
5
$ 0.
)5
,
26 "% )
": 4
.*/
6(
-"/
-
.*/
$0
53
/5
/++".
&& 3 " ' ' - & 4 "7

/"
$MBSLF
$MBS
$ F 5 &/6&
2VB T
&41
/
Museums and Galleries 2VBZ

%
$0
3

4JOH
4JOHBQPSF3JWFS
#0"5
Asian Civilizations
&
(
)"

BQP
$ *3 $6
*7&
*%
7& /$
Museum II 2 -
B 3
3
3% 0$, "/
%3
#
SF
"-
- "3
3% JWFS
8
National Museum of 61
26 %
1&
&
31 ":
/
$I X 45*$,&3
$IJOBUPXO
$ PXO $) 5
%&
Singapore w */ 6-*" 4
T (
/"
3BGnFT
3BGnFT T
3%
.0
Peranakan Museum e 42 1MBDF
MB
BDF
DF

$3
-"
$)
6 04
@ 45 & A
1&
4
63
&
&41
Singapore Art Museum 0

45
,*
%(
$)
8G F
/
45
45 45
%
45
3*
45
0:
#
3
#
4"
&3
".
$-
3"'
3"
"''-&44
&
)
-" (0
(
26
2 6 ":1"3
"3,
"3 ,
Parks and Gardens
":
":
65
*%
/&
; ?
3
40
26
,
>
#
Esplanade Park 3
-0
#6,*5 1"4 $ " / 5 0 / .
-*/,
3%
&8
&5
4
%
.
0"
("3 3%
5&
-&
3&
"
/
*-
Fort Canning Park t
9
45
3
''
3%
/&
0/
0/
3"
&-
= 0 meters 500
4 5
(0
-
0)
/4
$*
( 1"
$&
4& " )
45
#*
0
-"
":
"
Shopping
30
5" / + 0 /
0 yards 500
&
8
"%

T
$,
Chinatown Complex a
" 4
30
J5BOKPOH
/
3"
1& $
5BOK
BOKPO
K
5
."
50
53
:"/ ,*
Raffles City 7 3%
5
&/5
1BHB
1BH
1BHBS 98
&--
&/
KEY
%
3
4)
3%
/
40
Churches and Temples Street-by-Street map see pp2089

/
"
Armenian Church r T MRT station
Tourist information
A refurbished shophouse on Duxton Road, Tanjong Pagar Conservation Area

Street-by-Street: Around the Padang

The heart of Singapores colonial district is the
Padang, or square, which was once used by the
19th-century colonials as a site for big sporting
events as well as National Day parades. Sporting
activities from cricket and field hockey to soccer
and rugby still take place here on a weekly basis.
The square is flanked by grand structures such as
the domed Supreme Court, the Neo-Classical City
Hall, the Parliament House, and the exclusive . Supreme Co
Singapore Cricket Club. Also of interest here is The courthou
Esplanade Park, which lies on the eastern side of the last Cla
the Padang. One of the oldest parks in Singapore, building
it is home to many historical landmarks. erected
Sing
. Victoria Theater and Concert Hall

Built in 1862, the Victoria Theater was originally the
Town Hall. The Victoria Memorial Hall was added in
1905 to commemorate the death of Queen Victoria.
name was later changed to the Victoria Concert H
Old Parliament House

Constructed in 1827, this buildi
was originally commissioned as
a private residence for a Scottish
merchant, John Argyle Maxwell 5
STAR SIGHTS
. Supreme Court
. Victoria Theater and The Pyramid
Concert Hall Located in fron
the Pyramid conta
. City Hall which will be opened
brate Singapores silver ju
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp2868 and pp30811
T H E C O L O N I A L C O R E A N D C H I N A T O W N 209
. City Hall LITTLE

TTLE INDIA AND
N
ORC
RCHARD
CHARD ROAD
The Neo-Classical
faade of City
Hall, built in 1929,
features a row of 18
elegant Corinthian THE COLONIAL CORE
RE
E
columns. AND CHINATOWN
&
LOCATOR MAP
KEY See Street Finder Map 5
Suggested route
100
The Padang
field has hosted cricket since
830s. Today, sporting events
such as the Rugby Sevens
are held here.
o Seng
rial
ructure is a tribute
nese war hero Lim
ng who worked
British covert
until he was
caught and tor-
tured to death
by Japanese
forces in 1944.
Singapore Cricket Club

Built around 1884, the club is a distinctive,
squat building with dark green bamboo shutters.
This members-only club was originally intended
e exclusively for expatriates.
Asian Civilizations Esplanade Park 3

Museum II 2 Connaught Drive. Map 5 E3.
1 Empress Place. Map 5 D3. q City Hall. @ 10, 70, 75, 82, 97,
Tell 6332-7798. q Raffles Place, City 100, 130, 131, 167, 196, 608.
Hall. @ 75, 540, 608. # 17pm
Mon, 9am7pm TueSun, 9am9pm Running along Connaught
Fri. & free entry after 7pm. Drive from the underpass at
8 2pm Mon, 11am & 2pm TueFri, Anderson Bridge to Stamford
also at 3:30pm Sat & Sun. 7 0 Road, Esplanade Park was
= www.nhb.gov.sg/acm one of the most popular
outdoor spots for both the
Home to over 1,600 artifacts European and Asian commu-
that trace the history of the nities during the colonial era.
varied cultures and civili- The park contains Queen
zations of Asia, the second Elizabeth Walk and several
Statue of Sir Stamford Raffles at wing of the Asian Civilizations landmarks, including the
the original landing site Museum is housed in the Cenotaph, which commemo-
Empress Place Building. rates those who lost their
Named in honor of Queen lives during the two World
Raffles Landing Victoria and completed Wars; the Lim Bo Seng
Site 1 in 1867, the Palladian Memorial, which eulogizes
structure was built d War II hero
North Boat Quay. Map 5 D3. convicts and first ed in Japanese
q Raffles Place, City Hall. @ 7, 32, functioned as a vity; and the Tan
51, 81, 124, 145, 197, 603, 851. courthouse. Over m Seng Fountain,
the years, the build hich was built in
A statue of Sir Stamford Raffles ing housed many nor of the philan-
gazing upon the flourishing colonial administra ropist who set up
Central Business District, tive departments. Mythological mask, Asian Singapores first
complete with a plinth, marks Today, this Neo- Civilizations Museum II freshwater supply.
the spot where he first set Classical structure In 2002, the park
foot on Singapore soil, on the showcases a wealth of was the center of controversy
morning of January 29, 1819 exhibits in 11 themed gal- when Esplanade Theaters on
(see p204). The modern poly- leries and four ACE (Asian the Bay was built, sparking
marble statue is a replica Civilizations Education) debate over the radical archi-
of the original bronze work Zones: South Asia, West tecture of the new building.
cast by British sculptor-poet, Asia/Islam, Southeast Asia, Located on the waterfront,
Thomas Woolner, which was and China. There is also a the huge, spiked shells of the
unveiled on the Padang on fascinating Singapore River complex contain a plethora
June 27, 1887. The original Interpretive Gallery where of performing arts venues,
statue, which narrowly the story of generations of including a concert hall, the-
escaped being melted down immigrants who settled and ater, outdoor theater, and
during the Japanese invasion, worked on the banks of the recital studio, as well as gal-
now stands in front of the Singapore River is told using lery space, a performing arts
Victoria Concert Hall. old photographs. library, and a shopping mall.
The massive riverside complex of Esplanade Theaters on the Bay
St. Andrews
Cathedral 6
Coleman Street. Map 5 E2.
Tell 6337-6104. q City Hall. @ 7,
32, 51, 81, 124, 145, 197, 603, 851.
# daily. 8 7 5 7am, 8am,
11am, 2pm, 5pm, 7:30pm Sun.
= www.livingstreams.org.sg
Although an Anglican church,

St. Andrews was named for
the patron saint of Scotland
in recognition of the Scottish
merchants who contributed
funds to build it. The gleam-
The Neo-Palladian faade of the Old Parliament House ing cathedral of today is
actually the second ecclesias-
Old Parliament tical building to be built on
Victoria Theater this site. The first church,
and Concert Hall 4 House 5 designed and built by G.D.
Coleman in the late 1830s,
9 Empress Place. Map 5 E2. 1 High Street. Map 5 D3. Tell 6332- was declared unsafe and
Tell 6338-8283 (theater); 6338-6124, 6900. q City Hall, Raffles Place. closed in 1852 following two
6339-6120 (concert hall). q Raffles @ 7, 32, 51, 81, 124, 145, 197, lightning strikes. In 1862, it
Place, City Hall. @ 75, 540, 608. 603, 851. # 10am9pm MonFri, was replaced by the present-
# 10am7pm MonSat, later for 11am9pm Sat. Box office opens 90 day cathedral. Designed by
performances. 7 - = mins before Sunday events. & only Colonel MacPherson in Early
for tours. 8 11am & 3pm daily. 0 Gothic style and built using
A splendid example of - = www.theartshouse.com.sg convict labor from India, its
colonial architecture, Victoria lancet windows, turret-like
Theater was built in 1862 Singapores oldest surviving pinnacles, and decorated
by the British to showcase government building, the Old spire are reminiscent of
amateur dramatic productions Parliament House was origi- Englands Salisbury Cathedral.
and Gilbert and Sullivan nally built as the residence of The exterior was coated with
operettas. The Victoria Scottish merchant John Argyle chunam plaster, a mixture of
Memorial Hall was added in Maxwell in the late 1820s. It eggwhite, shell, lime, sugar,
1905 to celebrate Que ned in Neo- coconut husk, and water,
Victorias jubilee. The an style by G.D. which was molded into the
Memorial Hall was man, an architect ornate faade and polished
renamed Victoria was to shape to a smooth finish.
Concert Hall in 1980 ch of Singapores Within the church are brass
when it became hom an landscape. plaques dedicated to families
to the Singapore xwell leased it to of past congregations, and
Symphony Orchestra government for memorials to soldiers who
(see p254). as a courthouse. In lost their lives in the Sepoy
Over the years, 1950s, it became Mutiny of 1915 and in the
the hall has been the colonial two World Wars.
put to a variety Elephant sculpture, Old governments
of uses. During Parliament House Assembly House,
World War II, it and, in 1962, the
was converted into a hospital. Parliament House of the inde-
Its clock tower was set to pendent state. The bronze
Tokyo time when Japan occu- elephant outside the building
pied the island, and after the was a gift from the Thai
Japanese surrender, it was monarch, Rama V, after his
here that the war crimes 1871 visit to Singapore.
tribunals were held. A new Parliament House
The two buildings are the was built nearby in 1999.
venue for a range of concerts, In 2004, after careful
performances, and multi- restoration, the old building
cultural extravaganzas (see was converted into The Arts
pp2525). Details of events House, an elegant arts and
held here are posted on the heritage space. The center
billboards, and tickets can be offers a range of contempo-
obtained at the box office or rary visual and performance
at outlets in Singapores main arts, art house movies, and Graceful spire of the Victorian-era
shopping areas. improvisational theater. St. Andrews Cathedral
levels of stores at the complex former chapel, designed in

offer everything from electro- Neo-Gothic style by Jesuit
nics and premier labels such priest Father Nain. Most of
as Mont Blanc and Armani this historic building has been
Exchange to cafs and spe- restored, including the beauti-
cialty stalls selling Thai silk ful 19th-century stained-glass
and Chinese handicrafts. There windows. The chapels lofty
is also a shop of New York columns are decorated with
Citys Metropolitan Museum of intricate plasterwork and it
Art. To the east of Raffles City is capped with a magnificent
stand the four dignified 229-ft spire. It is now Chijmes Hall,
(70-m) high white columns of a venue for art exhibitions,
the Civilian War Memorial. recitals, and weddings.
Raffles Hotel 8
See pp21415.
The soaring silver blocks of the
Raffles City complex
Chijmes 9
Raffles City 7
30 Victoria Street. Map 3 D5, 5 E1.
2 Stamford Road. Map 3 D5, 5 E2. Tell 6332-6273. q City Hall. @ 2, 7,
Tell 6433-2238. q City Hall. @ 7, 12, 33, 81, 107, 130, 133, 147, 190,
36, 77, 97, 103, 124, 131, 147, 162, 520, 851, 960. # 11am3am daily.
166, 174, 190, 501, 511, 603. 0 - = www.chijmes.com.sg
# 10am9:30pm daily. 0 - =
www.rafflescity.com Chijmes (pronounced
chimes), an elegant walled
Raffles Institution, a school complex of shops, restaurants,
founded by Sir Stamford bars, and gallery spaces, was
Raffles and built in 1835 by once the Convent of the Holy
G.D. Coleman, was demol- Infant Jesus. Founded by a Singapore Art Museum, a former
ished in 1984 to make way French Jesuit priest in 1854 Catholic boys school
for Raffles City, a huge com- and run by nuns, the convent
plex comprising a shopping functioned as a school and a
mall, high-rise offices, and womens refuge, as well as Singapore Art
two hotels Raffles the Plaza a home for babies who were Museum 0
and Swisstel the Stamford, abandoned at its gates. In
which was the worlds tallest 1983, when the convent was 71 Bras Basah Road. Map 3 D5,
hotel when it was completed relocated to the suburbs, the 5 D1. Tell 6332-3222. q City Hall,
in 1985. Perched atop the buildings, including a school, Dhoby Gaut. @ 7, 14, 16, 36, 77,
Stamford are lavish bars and a chapel, and a private resi- 97, 131, 167, 171, 518, 602, 603,
restaurants, including The dence, were redeveloped 605, 607, 700. # 10am7pm Mon
Equinox on Level 69, which into what is now one of Sun, 10am9pm Fri. & free for
offers stunning panoramic Singapores most beautiful children under 6 years. 8 7 -
views of the city and parts public spaces. = www.nhb.gov.sg/sam
of Malaysia. Quiet courtyards, cobbled
Popularly dubbed the paths, fountains, and cov- A bronze statue of two
Tin Can for its metallic ered Italianate walkways schoolboys with 17th-century
appearance, Raffles City encircle shops that sell saint John Baptiste de la Salle
was designed by I.M. Pei, arts and crafts from China, stands above the porch of
the Chinese-American the Philippines, Thailand, the Singapore Art Museum, a
architect who is famous Malaysia, and India, as reminder that until 1987 this
for his designs of the well as restaurants was St. Josephs Institution,
glass pyramid in front that serve every
r thing a Catholic boys school.
of the Louvre in Paris from sushii to tapas. Today, the building is a
and Bank of China The most striking showcase for contemporary
skyscraper in building in the Asian art. Since the museums
Hong Kong. Four complex is the opening in January 1996, its
permanent collection has
grown from under 2,000 works
of art to over 7,000 pieces,
making it one of the worlds
largest public collections of
modern and contemporary
Faade of the chapel of Chijmes, now an arts and dining venue Southeast Asian art. The core
of the museums art, which

includes sculptures, instal-
lations, and paintings, is richly
supplemented by a regular
roster of local and international
traveling exhibitions, featuring
20th-century art from American
and European compilations.
Works from the museums
own collection are loaned out
to international exhibitions.
Usually only a selection of
works are on display at any
given time. There are works
by artists such as Georgette
Chen, Liu Kang, Chen Chong
Swee, Lim Tze Peng, and
Huang Yao from Singapore,
and those by regional artists
such as Wong Hoy Cheong
from Malaysia, Affandi from
Indonesia, and Bui Xian
Phai and Tran Trong Vu
from Vietnam.
The old Classical-style
building has been restored
and skillfully converted for
use as a museum. The former
school chapel is used as an
auditorium. While the chapels
original character has been Renaissance-style exterior of the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd
retained, its central window
has been replaced by a mod- The church, which was
ern stained-glass work by Cathedral of the accorded cathedral status in
Filipino artist Ramon Orlina. Good Shepherd q 1897, served as an emergency
The buildings two courtyards hospital during World War II,
are used as exhibition spaces, 4 Queen Street. Map 3 D5, 5 D1. and was listed as a national
arranged on either side of the Tell 6337-2036. q City Hall. @ 7, monument in 1973.
Glass Hall, which is a glass- 14, 16, 36, 77, 97, 131, 167, 171, Three interesting buildings
enclosed converted veranda 501, 700, 957, 960. # daily. stand within the church
decorated with blown-glass 5 8am, 10am, 6pm Sun; 7am, compound. The Archbishops
installations by American 1:15pm MonFri; 7am, 6:30pm Sat. House, a 19th-century double-
artist Dale Chihuly. The old 7 www.veritas.org.sg story bungalow with a pro-
classrooms are now galleries. jecting portico, casement
The state-of-f the-art E-mage Singapores oldest Catholic windows, and enclosed
Multimedia Gallery provides place of worship, this cathe- verandas, is a simple structure
information on the history dral was built between 1843 in contrast to the cathedral.
and techniques of contem- and 1847. It was administered The Residents Quarters, a
porary Southeast Asian art. by French missionary Father U-shaped single-story build-
The museum also has Jean-Marie Beurel, who ing with Doric columns, and
a library and a shop also established the the Priests House are more
which sells souve- Convent of the Holy ornate and decorated with
nirs showcasing Infant Jesus and St. elaborate plasterwork.
the works of Josephs Institution.
renowned artists. Designed by noted
The Dome Caf, colonial architect D.L.
ensconced in one of the McSwiney in a Latin-
naves of the museum, cross pattern, the
serves excellent sand- church combines a
wiches, cakes, and Renaissance-style
coffee drinks. There exterior with Doric
is also the Venezia columns, Palladian
restaurant, which serves porches, and a
excellent fusion cuisine beautifully crafted
and offers set dinners. timber ceiling. The
A trendy alfresco octagonal steeple
wine bar adds to the Sculpture, Singapore was a later addition Stained glass in the Cathedral of
pleasant ambience. Art Museum by Charles Dyce. the Good Shepherd
Raffles Hotel 8
A legendary hotel and a national

monument, Raffles, which opened
in 1887, is a tranquil haven of white,
veranda-enclosed, colonial-style
buildings with terra-cotta tiled, pitched
Singapore roofs. I
Sling colonia
guest li
Coward, Somerse
Joseph Conrad, C
Jackson. The coo
yards, gardens, an
still be enjoyed b
. Ornamental Fo
Made in Scotlan
early 1890s, t
(6-
6 m) high cas
fountain was do
to the hotel in 199
now stands in
the Palm
Garden.
Bar and
Billiard
Room
g restaurants (see p310), serving

50,000 plants fine French cuisine. The
representing about 80 French doors of the Grill
different species. overlook the Palm Court.
. Raffles Hotel Museum VISITORS CHECKLIST

The museum imparts a 1 Beach Road. Map 5 E1.
real sense of history and Tell 6337-1886. q City Hall.
atmosphere through @ 56, 82, 100, 518. 0 - =
personal mementos, www.raffles.com Raffles Hotel
artifacts, and archival Museum # daily.
documents.
China
the old
n 2003,
ffers its
shes in
world
sphere.
Deli
ew York-
Y
n food.
e
and
ed.
engs
rd-
STA
T R FEAT
A URES
. Long Bar nt
. Ornamental Fountain fusion
. Lobby rn and
Oriental
. Raffles Hotel Museum cuisines
(see p309).
The grand Neo-Palladian exterior of the National Museum of Singapore
Gallery, and a History of

National Museum Singapore Gallery, which
Armenian
of Singapore w displays a series of 20 Church r
model dioramas.
93 Stamford Road. Map 3 D5, 5 D1. 60 Hill Street. Map 3 D5, 5 D2.
Tell 6332-3659. q City Hall, Dhoby Tell 6334-0141.q City Hall. @ 2,
Ghaut. @ 7, 14, 16, 36, 77, 97, Peranakan 12, 32, 33, 51, 103, 124, 147, 174,
131, 166. # 9am7pm TueSun, Museum e 190, 197, 851. # 9am5pm Mon
9am9pm Wed. & 8 11am, 2pm Fri, 9amnoon Sat. Sun.
daily, also 3:30pm Sat & Sun. = 39 Armenian Street. Map 2 C5,
www.nationalmuseum.sg 5 D2. Tell 6332-7798. q City Hall. The Armenian Church of St.
@ 7, 14, 16, 36, 77, 97, 131, 166. Gregory the Illuminator was
Housed in a Neo-Palladian # 17pm Mon, 9am7pm TueSun, the first permanent place
structure and crowned with a 9am9pm Fri. & 8 0 = www. of Christian worship in
stunning stained-glass dome, acm.org.sg Singapore. The church was
the islands oldest museum built in 1835 and the spire
opened in 1887. Known as the This museum was originally was added later, in 1850. It
Raffles Museum and Library, it the Tao Nan School, estab- was able to seat a congre-
was famed for its remarkable lished in 1910 by three gation of only 50 people,
collections of natural history, Chinese philanthropists for a reflection of the minority
ethnology, and archaeology. the education of boys from status of the local Armenian
Following Singapores the Hokkien region of China. community then.
independence in 1965, the In 1997, this Neo-Classical Designed by G.D. Coleman,
museum was renamed the building was opened as the architect responsible
National Museum to reflect its the first wing of the Asian for other landmarks of
new role and altered its focus Civilizations Museum. Having early Singapore such as St.
to exhibitions that concen- undergone a recent overhaul, Andrews Cathedral (see
trated on the history and it is now a Peranakan-themed p211), the church is an
peoples of Singapore. The museum representing a pan- elegant example of tropical
museum has a permanent Southeast Asia perspective Neo-Classical architecture. The
collection and various of Peranakan culture with a interior contains a photograph
exhibitions on a range of focus on its main centers, of the Armenian community
subjects from Chinese secret which include from around 1917, as well as
societies to botany, but the Singapore, Malacca,
highlights of the museum are and Penang.
the 11 artifacts that have The museum
collectively been christened explores the history
the Treasures of the National and ethnology of
Museum. Among these rare the culture of these
pieces are 14th-century east regions and also
Javanese-style gold ornaments provides an inter-
excavated at Fort Canning, esting glimpse
the 20th-century Xin Sai Le into their heritage,
Puppet Stage, and William including language
Farquhars collection of 477 and religious
natural history drawings. customs. Exhibits
Other exhibits include a include silver
Peranakan house exhibit, artifacts, porcelain,
a Childrens Discovery jewelry, and textiles. Interior of the Armenian Church
portraits of the patriarchs of Chettiar Temple y The Chettiar Temple plays

the Armenian Church. In the an important role in the life
churchs compound is the Crossing of Tank Road and River of Hindu Shaivites as it is
grave of Agnes Joaquim, Valley Road. Map 4 C2. Tell 6737- the culmination point of a
who discovered an orchid 9393. q Dhoby Ghaut. @ 14, 32, spectacular procession that
hybrid in 1893. The flower 54, 65, 139, 195. # 8amnoon, 5 begins at Sri Srinivasa
was later named Vanda 8:30pm daily. Perumal Temple (see pp230
Miss Joaquim for her and 31) during the annual
adopted as Singapores Built in 1984, this Shaivite Thaipusam festival, which
national flower (see p198). Hindu temple replaced a much occurs between January and
older one, founded in 1860 February and honors Lord
by wealthy Indian Chettiars Murugan (see p200).
Fort Canning (moneylenders). Dedicated
Park t to Lord Subramaniam (also
known as Murugan), the
51 Canning Rise, Singapore, colorful temple is believed to
179872. Map 2 C5, 4 C2. be one of the wealthiest and
Tell 6332-1200. q Dhoby Ghaut. grandest in Singapore.
@ 14, 32, 54, 77, 124, 139, 195. Craftsmen from southern
# 8amnoon, 5:308:30pm daily. India were specially brought
in to create the temples dis-
Once the seat of Temasek, a tinctive architectural features,
14th-century Malay kingdom which include a striking five-
(see p34), Fort Canning Park tiered gopuram, or entrance
is now a verdant, tran- archway, massive patterned
quil oasis in the heart of rosewood doors, and columns
the city. Because of the and prayer halls richly
lovely view the site com- decorated with sculptures of
mands, Raffles built his Hindu deities. The ceiling
bungalow here, and until has 48 etched-glass
the mid-19th century, it panels of gods that are
was home to Singapores angled to catch the rising
governors. The park was and setting sun. Another The colorful gopuram of the Hindu
also the first site of Raffles feature, a rarity for Hindu Chettiar Temple
botanical garden. temples, is the presence of
In 1860, Fort Canning a thoonganai maadam, a Clarke Quay u
was built here; only the fort representation of the rear
gate still stands. Nearby is of an elephant at rest. The 3 River Valley Road, Singapore
the Fort Canning Center, dominance of the temples 179019. Map 4 C2. q Clarke Quay.
formerly a barracks that main deity is apparent @ 14, 32, 54, 65, 139, 195, or 3
now serves as a Sculpture, Fort throughout the min. walk from Hill Street. 0 - =
performance space Canning Park temple, with Lord ( flea market on Sat&Sun.
and gallery. Another Murugan represented www.clarkequay.com.sg
historic landmark is the in six of his holy abodes.
Battle Box, a World War II Inside the temple are two Named for Sir Andrew Clarke,
bunker containing a museum connected rooms, the the second governor of
that uses animatronics to mandapam and the antarala, Singapore, Clarke Quay
recreate the 1942 surrender through which worshipers is an upscale area along the
of the city to the Japanese. move to perform their devo- banks of the Singapore River
Also worth a visit is the tions. The antarala leads to with waterfront shops and
ASEAN (Association of the innermost sanctum, the eateries. Lying near the mouth
Southeast Asian Nations) garbhagraha, which only of the Singapore River, the
sculpture park. priests may enter. site of Clarke Quay was a
commercial hub during the
late-19th century, containing
warehouses run by Chinese
traders. It was redeveloped in
the early-1990s into an enter-
tainment precinct offering
restaurants, wine bars, retail
stores, craft stalls, street
performers, and cruises in
authentic bumboats (boats that
bring provisions and commo-
dities to ships at port). While
it is relatively quiet during
the day, Clarke Quay offers
The wide frontage of the Fort Canning Center, now a performance space a lively atmosphere at night.
several times over the years.

In its early days, the temple
gave shelter to new immigrants
and also served as a social
center for the community.
Although many of the
splendid friezes and statues
depict the Hindu divine trinity
of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva,
as well as other Hindu deities,
the temple is dedicated to the
goddess Sri Mariamman (an
incarnation of Shivas wife
Parvati), known for her power
to cure disease. The temple is
famous for the annual Thimithi
festival (see p201) in autumn,
during which devotees walk
on hot coals as a sign of faith.
Temple Street p
Map 4 C4. q Chinatown. @ 51,
80, 124, 145, 174, 197, 608.
0-=
The area bounded by

Mosque, Pagoda, Temple,
Terengganu, and Smith Streets
Figurines adorning the gopuram, or gateway, of Sri Mariamman Temple is the place that Sir Stamford
Raffles had first earmarked
Chinatown Mariamman Temple, vividly
decorated with about 72
for the Chinese community.
It grew into the hub of
Heritage Center i Hindu deities. The complex Chinese life and culture, with
is encircled by a boundary streets that were lined with
48 Pagoda Street. Map 4 C3. wall topped with figures of temples, traditional craft
Tell 6325-2878. q Chinatown. sacred cows. stores, kongsi, or clan houses,
@ 61, 80, 197. # daily. & The oldest Hindu place of restaurants, and shophouses,
www.chinatownheritage.com.sg worship on the island, Sri shuttered buildings where
Mariamman dates back to 1827 the ground floor was occu-
A superb museum housed in when the first temple, a simple pied by a shop while families
three restored shophouses, wood and attap, or thatched- lived on the upper floor.
the center provides one of the roof, was built on this site. Some shophouses contained
most vivid accounts of the The land belonged to an opium dens and brothels,
history and culture of Chinese Indian merchant, Narain Pillai, giving the area a somewhat
immigrants. Three levels of who arrived in Singapore on colorful reputation.
galleries recreate their living the same ship as Sir Stamford Sensitive restoration has
conditions and, together with Raffles. It was replaced by the meant that much of the
first-hand accounts of former present structure in 1843. The original character of these
residents and a variety of arti- temple has been repaired shophouses has been
facts, trace the lives of early
settlers and evoke different
periods of Chinatowns history.
Sri Mariamman
Temple o
244 South Bridge Road. Map 4 C4.
Tell 6223-4064. q Chinatown.
@ 51, 80, 124, 143, 174, 197.
# 7am1:30pm, 68:30pm daily.
The southern end of South

Bridge Road is dominated by
the gopuram, or entrance
gateway, of the Sri The entrance to a shop on Temple Street, Chinatown
retained. Many are painted in

bright, contemporary colors.
While escalating rents have
driven out some of the tradi-
tional businesses, the area still
features a variety of shops
selling souvenirs, antiques,
porcelain, and clothing. There
are also several pleasant
restaurants and cafs. The
surrounding housing blocks
also offer an authentic flavor
of the old Chinatown. These
streets come alive during
Chinese New Y Year, with fes-
tivities, vibrant decorations, Restored double-story shophouses along Duxton Road
and food and gift stalls.
shophouses, especially along were first imported from
the impressive sweep of Shanghai in the 1880s. By
Chinatown Tanjong Pagar Road and 1919 there were about 9,000
Complex a around Duxton Road. One of rickshaws and 20,000 rick-
the first of the old neighbor- shaw-pullers. The rickshaws
New Bridge Road. Map 4 C4. hoods to be renovated, were phased out by legisla-
q Outram Park, Chinatown. @ 2, Tanjong Pagar is now home tion after World
W W II and
War
12, 33, 54, 62, 63, 81, 124, 147, to many lively restaurants, soon disappeared from the
961. # 10am10pm daily. 0 bars, and hotels including streets of Singapore.
-= the beautiful Berjaya Duxton A highlight of Tanjong
Hotel (see p288). Pagar is a visit to one of the
On the corner of Terengganu At the corner of Neil Road traditional tea houses on Neil
Street and Sago Street, the and Tanjong Pagar Road is the Road, where visitors can
Chinatown Complex houses former Jinrickshaw Station, take part in the rituals of
one of the most boisterous built in 1903. Jinrickshaws tea-drinking.
wet markets in the city, where
a bewildering variety of fresh
produce is on sale, includ- SHOPHOUSE
ing fruit, vegetables, and STYLES
seafood. The most startling
meat and fish, including The shophouse is
freshly skinned frogs, is on a memorable fea-
sale in the mornings. Above ture of Singapores
the wet market are stalls local architecture.
offering silk sarongs, jade Five styles, rough-
jewelry, DVDs, and more. ly chronological,
Next door is Sago Street, have been identi- The Early Style The First Transitional
named for its factories that fied the Early, (18401900) shop- Style (early 1900s)
once produced sago, starchy First Transitional, house is a squat, shophouse is three
granules obtained from palm. Late, Second two-story building. stories high, such as
The street was also infamous Transitional, and The windows and this unit at Telok
for its Death Houses, Art Deco styles. faade are plain. A
Ayer Street.
hospices where the termi-
nally ill came to die. Today,
rattan mat-makers and paper
kite sellers operate here.
Tanjong Pagar
Conservation
Area s
The Late Style The Second The Art Deco Style
Map 4 B5. q Tanjong Pagar. (19001940) Transitional Style (19301960) shop-
@ 80, 145. 0 - = shophouse is flamboy- (late 1930s) shophouse is typified by
antly ornamented house, such as this classical geometric
Once a nutmeg plantation, with eclectic styles, unit (No. 10) on motifs, as illustrated
this area at the southern tip of as seen in this unit Stanley Street, is by this unit (No. 30)
South Bridge Road boasts (No. 21) on Bukit much simpler and located on Bukit
some of Singapores most Pasoh Road. less ornate. Pasoh Road.
elegant stretches of renovated
The distinctive architecture of Lau Pa Sats food court
Ann Siang Hill d Telok Ayer Street f Museum, standing on the

site of the Hock Teckk Chi
Map 4 C4. q Tanjong Pagar, Map 5 D4. q Tanjong Pagar, Raffles Temple. Among its display of
Chinatown. @ 51, 61, 63, 80, Place. @ 10, 70, 75, 82, 97, 100, Chinese artifacts is a diorama
103, 124, 145, 174, 197, 603, 107, 130, 167, 186. 0 - = depicting Telok Ayer
A Street
608, 851. 0 - = as it would have been in the
Originally located on the 1850s. Far East Square, on
Once a clove and nutmeg seafront before modern land Amoy Street, offers a variety of
plantation, Ann Siang Hill and reclamation, Telok Ayer
A shops and restaurants housed
its neighboring streets are Street, which means water in renovated shophouses.
today a hub of Chinese life bay in Malay, retains much
and activity. The gently curving of the feel of 19th-century
street, flanked by shophouses, Singapore. On the street are Lau Pa Sat g
makes for an interesting a number of traditional busi-
walking tour. Some of the nesses, as well as temples and 18 Raffles Quay. Map 5 D4.
shophouses feature pintu mosques where early immi- q Raffles Place. @ 10, 70, 75, 82,
pagar, r or half doors, reflecting grants gave thanks for their 97, 100, 107, 130, 131, 167, 186.
Malay influence. Club Street safe passage. One of the most # 24 hours. 0 - =
nearby is noted for its dining famous is the Hokkien Thian
and upmarket boutiques. It is Hock Keng Temple (see Singapores first municipal
also famous for its temple- pp2223), the citys oldest market, Telok A Ayer Market,
carving shops and the clan Chinese temple. The neigh- now renamed Lau Pa Sat, is
associations and guilds that boring Al Abrar Mosque was an architecturally impressive
gave the street its name. Some, built between 1850 and 1855 food court offering an exten-
such as the Victorian Chinese by Indian Muslims, who also sive variety of Asian cuisines
Weekly Entertainment Club, built the nearby Nagore and is a favorite lunch venue
still survive on the hill, their Durgha in the 1820s, a blend for locals. Originally commis-
walls plastered with photo- of Classical architecture and sioned by Raffles in 1822 on
graphs of former members. Indian-Islamic details such as reclaimed land, the elegant
Also striking are house num- arches and perforated grills. octagonal cast-iron structure
bers 33 and 35, designed by All three are national monu- was designed by James
architect Frank Brewer, famed ments. Farther down the MacRitchie and shipped over
for his skilled plasterwork. street is the Fuk Tak Chi from a Glasgow foundry in
1894. It was declared a
national monument in 1973.
The market was dismantled
during MRT tunnel construc-
tion and was later pain-
stakingly reassembled. The
adjacent Boon Tat Street is
closed off to traffic in the
evenings for traditional
hawker stalls to set up shop.
Thian Hock Keng

Temple h
Row of restored shophouses on Ann Siang Hill See pp2223.
Raffles Place j CONRADS LORD JIM

Map 5 D3. q Raffles Place. @ 10, Born to Polish parents in what
70, 75, 82, 97, 100, 107, 130, 131, is now Ukraine, Teodor Josef
167, 196. 0 - = Konrad Korzeniowski sailed
to many places, including the
Nowhere is Singapores Malay states, between 1874 and
transition from a colonial 1894, becoming a mariner and
backwater to a cutting edge, a British subject in 1886. Joseph
booming economy more Conrad is perhaps the most cele-
apparent than in the gleaming brated English writer on late
skyscrapers of Raffles Place. 19th-century Southeast Asia, and
This is the heart of the citys Singapore figures prominently in
financial world, packed with his works, especially in the Joseph Conrad
well-known multinational novel Lord Jim. It was in this
corporations and financial region that he heard of an English merchant navy officer,
institutions. Among the first Austin Podmore Williams, who earned lasting disgrace by
banks to open here were the abandoning the steamer Jeddah, along with 953 Muslim
Hong Kong and Shanghai pilgrims, in the Red Sea in 1880, dooming himself to a life
Bank and Standard Chartered of exile. He became the tragic model for Conrads Lord Jim.
Bank. The three tallest
buildings in Singapore are
located here UOB Plaza, Boat Quay k 1960s, however, technological
OUB Center, both designed advances had changed the
by renowned Japanese Map 5 D3. q Raffles Place. @ 2, face of the shipping industry.
architect Kenzo Tange, and 12, 33, 51, 54, 61, 81, 103, 145, New, high-tech container
Republic Plaza. All the 147, 166, 174, 190. 0 - ports opened up farther
buildings are 920 ft (280 m) up the river, claiming Boat
high. The Bank of China A thriving strip of restored Quays role in the rivers
building is one of Southeast shophouses converted into trade. Trading houses moved
Asias earliest skys aurants, shops, and out and the area slowly
Dotted around t s, Boat Quay today is declined. The government
are installations of different from the embarked upon a river-
modern sculpture front area of a century cleaning program which
including The center of the citys cleared out all the bumboats
Salvador Dalis ercial activities in the and the barges, leaving Boat
Homage to , most of its trading Quay a desolate region.
Newton (1985) handled from here. In 1986, the government
and Fernando phouses crowded the started restoring the area
Boteros Bird ve of the south bank, as part of a conservation
(1990). The Merlio e shape of which was project, renovating the old
statue, symbol of ought to resemble shophouses and godowns
is also located nea he belly of a carp, an (warehouses) and revitalizing
Clifford Pier, which indicator of prosperity the riverfront area by pedes-
provided a location Dalis Homage to according to trianizing it. Today, there are
for Conrads Lord Newton, Raffles Place Chinese belief. The plenty of little shops and rest-
Jim, is the depar- river teemed with aurants with enchanting
ture point for a number of bumboats, which were used views of the river. A taxi
excellent sightseeing cruises to load and unload ships service also plies between
on the Singapore River. anchored on the river. By the Boat Quay and Clarke Quay.
Bars and restaurants lining the riverbank at Boat Quay, once a busy trading center
Thian Hock Keng Temple h
Built in 1839, Thian Hock

Keng Temple is the oldest
Chinese temple in
Singapore. Constructed by
Hokkien sailors on the site
Carving of a gilded Buddha
of a joss house, it was the
on the temples roof most important center of
worship for immigrants from
their community. It was also where seafarers gave . Roof Decorations
thanks for a safe passage to Singapore. Construction On the temples roof ridge
was paid for by individual donors, the main one being stand twin dragons that
Hokkien leader Tan Tock Seng (17981850). The embody the principles of yin
temple itself is laid out along a traditional north-south and yang. Between them is
axis and has shrines dedicated to several deities. Today, the night-shining pearl, a
people of all ages come to this temple to give their glass globe that represents
thanks to Ma Zhu Po, the goddess of the sea. the sun.
Rear Hall
Dedicated to the moon
goddess, Yue Gong
Niang Niang, Rear
Hall houses a shrine to
the goddess. She is
worshiped alongside
Kuan Yin, the goddess
of mercy. The sun god,
Ri Gong Tai Zi, is also
worshiped here.
. Secondary Shrines
In the side hall to the left of the
main courtyard stand shrines
to Kai Zhang Shen Wang, an
early immigrant, and Cheng
Hang, a local deity.
The pagoda, which used

STAR FEATURES to house Chong Wen
. Roof Decorations Ge, the first Chinese
school in Singapore,
. Secondary Shrines was built in 1849.
. Ceiling of Main Hall

Gift shop
VISITORS CHECKLIST
158 Telok Ayer Street. Map 5
D4. Tell 6222-8212. q Tanjong
Pagar. # 8:30am5:30pm daily.
Ancestor Tablets
The spirits of ancestors are
believed to reside in these
venerated tablets.
The roof ridge is

decorated with glazed
tile chips.
The furnace is where

paper money offerin
and other gifts are
burned to placate the
spirits of the dead.
The door at the

main entrance is Granite Pillars
decorated with The intricate
temple guardians columns which
from Chinese support the roof,
mythology.
made of granite
from China, are
carved with
entwined dragons.
The main hall contains the

image of Ma Zhu Po, the sea
goddess. She is flanked by
Guan Gong, the god of war,
and Pao Sheng Da Di, the
protector of life.
. Ceiling of Main Hall

Gilded carvings on the temples ceiling
depict stories from Chinese folklore. These
carvings have been restored by artisans
from China. The gray pillars supporting the
ceiling are made of granite from China.
LITTLE INDIA
AND ORCHARD ROAD
O riginally occupied b
Europeans and Eurasians
Little India was settled by
the Indians when they set up
brick-kilns and cattle yards in the
ning Buginese, Boyanese, and
vanese arrivals, to create a Muslim
nclave. The ethnic area of Little
ndia is the spiritual heart and
commercial center of the local
latter half of the 19th century. ndian community. Orchard Road
Packed with lively restaurants, ies to the north-west of the
shops, and ornate temples, the Colonial Core. In the 1840s it was
area is a heady mix of sights, a dirt road, lined with orchards
scents, and sounds. With colo- Stone guardian at and nutmeg plantations, but
nial architecture and a Middle Ngee Ann City today it constitutes Singapores
Eastern ambience, Kampong most famous shopping district.
Glam provides some of the best insights Lavish hotels, cafs, pubs, and shop-
into Singapores Malay community. ping malls with a tempting array of
Arab traders were the earliest settlers, luxury brands are located here.
SIGHTS AT
A A GLANCE

/4 /30"%
"%
Historic Streets and Buildings Shopping

00/30
Arab Street 3 Centerpoint q

5&44&/40)
Dhoby Ghaut 9 Ngee Ann City w

Istana Kampong Glam 2 t
4&3"/(
Tanglin Shopping Center

Serangoon Road 7 Tangs e
08&/ 3%
T 'BSSFFS 30"%
Mosques and Temples QBSL
L 4:&% "-8* +"-"
BM
/4
"%
"%%
6 -5 "
BO
3
0"
/
Goodwood Park Hotel r
0 "%
%
30
"
3PDIPS $
" %
- 30
#&3 -"/ %3
/ # &4
453&&5
&-
& 30
308
30$) 03 $"/ "-
Leong San See Temple 4

4&
%
30"
"%
+"-"
: 30
$& $0 63
". #
Peranakan Place and Emerald Hill 0 "4
30"%

/ 35) 6.
3%
&3
7&
7*$503*"
"3"# 453&&5
3" $&
&-% 3%
&* 3%
33
Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya 5 61

1&3 8
$)"/%&
(00/
3%
/0
#&"$) 30"%
,40/
3 %*$ 30"%
6
/(
Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple pp23031 61 1&

1)*3
#3*%(&
0
5
&445
46
4&3"/
Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 8

7&
$-*7
$-*
3 % "- 3 %
$-
-JUUM
-JUUMF
Sultan Mosque 1 T *OEJB (&* / 30$)03 3%
46/ $" T #VHJT
&/ 45
5*.") 3% )03 #
045
7*$ 503 *"4
"-# &3
&35 45
5*.")
3% 3 0$ "-#&35
45
-00
/035)
26&&/45
45
8"5&3-0
3%
-*"/(4&"
")
#&/ $0 0-
4)03545
45
*&
26
&(
KEY 0"%
-
&3
4&
.*%%-
3&&5
Street-by-Street maps
5 &
3&
see pp2267 and pp2323

--00453&&5
$00-&/45
45
4&1
T MRT station
3-00
13*/
/$
8"5&3
#&/
# Bus station
"%
30
/%
: %IPCZ
%IPCZ
CZ
)" (I
(IB
IBVU
BVU
V
"%
T
3%
30 %

(
"5 "
*/
". $ 0
"/ /
. ,3 "/& 3 % -& 3
06 - .
/5 )" ( "7 & /
" /
5$
:$0
55 I 3$ / &/ $
4$0
%3" 3*7& $"*3/) 0 &

&-
6 "
'03
&
H
*- & 6
*;
% - 1
9-&: 3
"#
30
554
0 *4&
& 5)
"%
T 4PN
PNFST
NFFSTFU
FU
)*--
/6 "%
"% 30
30
5 . &( 3 0 " % 30 &5

03&
(3"/(& 3%
34
"%
.&
,
%
<3 $ ) " 3 %
:.
03$)"3% -*/
3& 40 "
:.0 3 0
$-"
$-" 0"%
3 0 N &3
03$)"3% 563/ &5
T0SDIBS
SD E &9
"3% # 0 6- &7" 3 %
03$)
GETTING THERE
%
%
3 0 "
30"
K
The MRT goes to Little
" % &/
%
"3
India, Bugis, and Orchard

(-*/
6-&7
$ 6 4$
0 meters 500
Road. Bus numbers 7, 107,
5" /
#0
50 .
-/
-*
3 0 " 40 /
111 go to Little India. Bus
$)"3%
%
0 yards 500
numbers 7, 77, 14, 106, 111
03
(3 " / ( &
3 or 143 go to Orchard Road.
%
Mythological carving at Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple

Street-by-Street:
Kampong Glam
Kampong Glam is the focal point of Muslim life
in Singapore. Its name is derived from the Malay
words kampung, or village, and gelam, a t
that once grew abundantly in the area. In
the area was given to Sultan Hussein Shah
of a treaty by which Singapore was ceded
British. The Sultan built his palace, the Ista
Kampong Glam, and the stunning Sultan M
here and soon the area was filled with Mu
from diverse ethnic backgrounds. This early
is reflected in the distinct Islamic flavor of
street names, shops, buildings, and restaur
Arab Street is a major draw, with its intrica
textiles, fine leather, and caneware. Good
food stalls can be found on Kandahar Stre
. Ista
Kamp
Glam
Malay
combin
Palladi
this form
residen
Malay c
center 2
. Sultan Mosqu
Designed by
Irishman Denis
Santry, the Sultan
Mosque dominate
the skyline with
its golden domes
and four corner
minarets 1
Bendahara
House
This yellow
mansion, erected
in the 1920s by
Sultan Ali
Iskandar Shah, is
an example of
Palladian-inspired
architecture.
L I T T L E I N D I A A N D O R C H A R D R O A D 227
Hajjah Fatimah Mosque LITTLE INDIA

ND AND
ORCHARD ROAD
RO
Named for a female Malaccan merchant,
it was built in 1846, with an eclectic mix
of European, Chinese, and Middle
Eastern architectural styles.
THE COLONIAL CO
CORE
AND CHINATOW
OW
WN
AP
der Map 2
ultan
meters 100
yards 100
SUL
TAN
GAT
E
l
s to the Sultan
omes to life
slim fasting
us items and a
are sold here.
route
STAR SIGHTS
. Istana Kampong Glam
. Sultan Mosque
. Arab Street
Arab Street 3
Map 3 E4. q Bugis. @ 2, 7, 12,
32, 33, 51, 61, 62, 63, 125, 130,
145, 197, 520, 851, 960.
0-=
Located within the smallest of

Singapores ethnic quarters,
this street acquired its name
from the Arab merchants who
settled here when they came
to trade in the 19th-century.
The vibrant colors of Arab
Street are striking. It is a maze
Main prayer hall inside the Sultan Mosque of shops that sell all manner
of Middle Eastern and Islamic
Sultan Mosque 1 presides over extensive wares. Religious items such
grounds. Several smaller as prayer mats, holy beads,
3 Muscat Street. Map 3 E4. Malay village-style houses copies of the Koran, and skull
Tell 6293-4405. q Bugis. @ 7, were built within the walled caps jostle for space with
32, 124, 145, 166, 174, 195, 197. compound. These housed excellent basketware, rattan,
# 11am7pm daily. & voluntary. the Sultans large entourage cane and straw work, leather
Note visitors can only view the prayer which included his family of products, jewelry, precious
hall from the foyer. hundreds of relatives and and semi-precious gems, and
servants. Also on the premises perfumes. Visitors should be
Named for Sultan Hussein was the Kota Rajah Club, a prepared to bargain. The
Shah of Johor, the mosque was sports club founded by one majestic Sultan Mosque looms
originally built in 1827 with the of the descendants of the over this pedestrianized
aid of a grant from the British Sultan, where young men of tourist market strip.
East India Company, the good breeding could enjoy Arab Street is most famous
result of a treaty between the recreational activities such for its textile stores. Bales of
Sultan and Stamford Raffles. as badminton. colorful cotton, chiffon,
It was replaced a century According to the provisions organza, and silk cloth cram
later by the present structure, of the 1904 Sultan Hussein the shopfronts and spill onto
designed by Irish architect Ordinance, enacted by the the pavement. Batikk from
Denis Santry. Arabesque in British Government, the Indonesia and Malaysia,
style with Moorish overtones, Sultans descendants were handmade or machine-printed
golden domes, balustrades, entitled to live in the palace with traditional designs, is
and arches, as well as a mina- and receive an annual govern- typically sold in sarong
ret at each corner, Singapores ment stipend. Over the years, lengths of 6 ft (2 m). Shops
largest mosque accommodates however, disputes and dwin- also sell readymade batik
5,000 worshipers in its main dling fortunes led the palace shorts, shirts, dresses, ties, and
hall. Visitors are welcome to gradually fall in ruins. table linen. To complement
in the lobby except during The Istana Kampong Glam the fabric sellers, specialist
Friday prayers. has now been reclaimed by shops sell ostrich feathers,
the government, which has dazzling lam in several
compensated the Sultans shades, various types of
Istana Kampong descendants for their displace- sparkling sequins, and thread
Glam 2 ment. The palace has been in a profusion of colors.
transformed into the Malay Traditional Malay wedding
Sultan Gate. Map 3 F4. Tell 6390- Heritage Center, to celebrate outfits can also be found
0450. q Bugis. @ 107, 961, 980. Malay history, culture, and arts. in shops on Arab Street.
# 9am7pm daily. &
Istana Kampong Glam was

the official royal residence of
Sultan Hussein Shah who
ceded the sovereign rights of
Singapore to the British. As
part of this historic agreement,
the Sultan built a wooden
palace in 1820 and named the
area Kota Raja, or the Kings
Enclave. In 1840, his son,
Sultan Ali Iskandar Shah, the
last Sultan of Singapore, built
the present palace. The Istana Baskets and leather bags for sale on Arab Street
Leong San See and mother-of- f pearl replica Bollywood movie soundtracks.
of what is believed to be The area is full of restaurants,
Temple 4 the footprint of the Buddha. such as the Komala Villas
Beyond, a 50-ft (15-m) seated Restaurant for vegetarian
Race Course Road. Map 3 E1. statue of the Buddha is food. The noise of fortune-
q Farrer Park. @ 23, 64, 65, 111, illuminated by the colored telling parrots, street pedlars,
130, 131, 133, 139, 147. # 6am electric lights that give the and a heady aroma of spices
6pm daily. temple its popular name. and flowers fill the air.
Another relic that draws
Situated across the road from devotees here is a branch
the dazzling Sakya Muni believed to be from the Sri Veeramakali-
Buddha Gaya Temple, the bodhi, or peepul, tree under amman Temple 8
Leong San See Temple honors which the Buddha gained his
Kuan Yin, the goddess of enlightenment. In a chamber Serangoon Road. Map 3 D3.
mercy and compassion, and behind the Seated Buddha Tell 6293-4634. q Dhoby Ghaut,
Sakyamuni Buddha. Leong is a statue of the Reclining Bugis. @ 23, 64, 65, 103, 106, 111,
San See, or dragon mountain Buddha. About 25 scenes 125, 130, 131, 142, 147, 151, 857.
temple, was built in 1917 by a from the Buddhas life are # 6am, 1pm, 4pm, 7:30pm daily.
Buddhist monk. Today, both portrayed on the base of the 0=
Taoists and Buddhists wor- statue. Visitors can have their
ship here. The temple is futures foretold at a wheel of This temple, built in 1881 by
beautifully decorated with fortune near the prayer hall. Bengali laborers, is dedicated
timber beams and intricate to the Hindu goddess Kali,
carvings of phoenix, dragons, who epitomizes the struggle
chimeras, and flowers. A Sri Srinivasa of good over evil and is the
courtyard
t in the temple con- Perumal Temple 6 consort of Shiva, the god of
tains many ancestral tablets. destruction. The name of
See pp23031. the temple means Kali
the Courageous.
The main altar of the
Serangoon Road 7 temple has a black statue of
Kali with each of her many
Map 3 F1. q Little India. @ 23, 64, arms and legs holding a
65, 106, 111, 125, 130, 131, weapon. She is flanked by
142,147. 7 0 = her two sons Ganesh, the
elephant god, and Murugan,
The early Indian migrants to the child god riding a peacock.
Singapore in the 19th century The temple is especially
settled along the banks of the crowded on Tuesdays and
Rochor Canal. The area even- Fridays, which are Hindu holy
tually became a trading and days when devotees throng
cattle-breeding center, evident the temple to worship.
from street names
such as Kerbau Road,
which means Buffalo
Road in Malay. Over
Large gilded Buddha at Leong San time, as more Indians
See Temple arrived, Serangoon
Road became the heart
of Little India, the
Sakya Muni religious, cultural,
Buddha Gaya 5 and economic
center for the local
366 Race Course Road. Map 3 E2. Indian community.
Tell 6294-0714. q Farrer Park. One of the oldest
@ 23, 64, 65, 106, 111, 125, 130, roads in Singapore,
131, 142, 147, 151, 857. Serangoon Road is a
# 7:30am5pm daily. 7 kaleidoscope of
quintessential Indian
Popularly known as the life. Vying for attention
Temple of a Thousand Lights, are elaborate Hindu
Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya temples and ornate
was built by Vuttisasara, a shophouses. The
Thai monk. The temple has a shopkeepers hang
Thai watt design, embellished mirrors above their
with a mix of Chinese and doors to ward off evil
Indian influences. To the left influences and sell Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, a temple in
of the entrance is an ebony jewelry, textiles, and honor of the Hindu goddess Kali
Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple 6
One of the most important religious

buildings in Singapore, this Hindu
temple is devoted to the worship of
Lord Vishnu (also known as Perumal).
It is also one of the oldest temples in
Lotus symbol Singapore. Built in 1854, the temple
on ceiling was originally a simple structure with
a mandapam, or a prayer hall, and
the area around the temple had many ponds and
vegetable gardens. In 1966, when the temple was
consecrated, a six-tiered gopuram, or entrance tower, . Mandapam
was built, funded by one of the earliest Indian The main mandapam or
migrants, P. Govindasamy Pillai. The temple is the prayer hall has a decorated
start
r ing point of the annual Thaipusam festival
i parade. ceiling that is supported by
ornately carved
The inner sanctum is columns.
where the main idol lies.
Only priests can enter.
. Subsidiary Shrines
Several subsidiary shrines
are dedicated to different
deities. This shrine is in
honor of Ganesh, the
elephant-headed god who
removes obstacles.
STAR
T FEA
ATURES
. Mandapam
. Subsidiary shrines
Vimanams
. Gopuram Decorated vimanams, or domes, mark the position
of the temples subsidary shrines.
THAIPUSAM FESTIVAL
This Hindu festival begins at dawn at the temple. Male
devotees enter a trance-like state, carrying ornately
decorated kavadis, or steel arches, attached by metal hooks
to their torsos, with skewers pierced through their tongues
and cheeks. Devotees take part in this act in penance for
their sins and in honor of Lord Murugan, the god of bravery,
power, beauty, and virtue. Women carry coconut milk pots,
also fulfilling vows relating to penance. Accompanied by
chanting and singing, they walk to Sri Thendayuthapani Devotee carrying an ornately
Temple on Tank Road, about 2 miles (3 km) away. decorated kavadi
VISITORS CHECKLIST
397 Serangoon Road. Map 3 E2.
Tell 6298-5771. q Little India.
@ 23, 64, 65, 111, 130, 131,
139, 147, 857. # 6:30am
noon, 69pm daily. 7
8 on request.
Main Shrine
Here, devotees make offerings
of ghee,
e flowers, and fruit, to
the accompaniment of music
and chanting. They also sprin-
kle their heads with holy water.
V
Vishnu
This sculpture of Vishnu
shows him with four
sacred instruments
the conch shell, club,
. Gopuram
lotus, and saber.
The 60-ft
(20-m) high
entrance tower
has six tiers of
sculptures.
The office provides

information on temple
activities.
Main Entrance
Statuary stands guard on
either side of the massive Hanuman
wooden door. Devotees This shrine is dedicated to Hanuman,
ring the bells before the monkey god. In the Hindu epic,
entering, asking the gods the Ramayana, he helped rescue Sita
to grant their prayers. from the demon, Ravana.
Street-by-Street: Orchard Road

Stretching from Tanglin Mall to Plaza
Singapura, the range and scale of retail out-
lets on Orchard Road make it not just an
exemplary shopping experience but a
tourist marvel as well. Shady trees dot the
road between malls and department stores, . Ngee Ann City
including Singapores oldest, Robinsons at With seven floors, Ngee Ann
Centerpoint and the historic Tangs. These City is one of the largest
A local
cheongsam large, glitzy buildings are interspersed
malls in Southeast Asia. It
with smaller designer boutiques, antique has numerous restaurants,
stores, cafs, and food courts. Crowds throng the a post office, banks, a
streets, especially on weekends. Japanese department store,
and more than 120 shops
(see pp2345) w
Wheelock Place
Shaped like a steel and glass Christmas Paragon shopping
tree, Wheelock Place houses a major center boasts a vast,
bookshop and a few restaurants. shop-lined atrium. It
houses five floors of
Delfi Orchard gift, fashion, and
lifestyle stores.
Forum is packed Liat Tow

with shops
selling clothes
and childrens
toys.
0 meters 200
Tangs (see p235)
0 yards 200
Wisma Atria
The blue Wisma Atria houses
. Tanglin Shopping Center Isetan, a Japanese department
A paradise for antique lovers, Tanglin Shopping store. A range of merchandise
Center is a treasure-house for old maps, bric-- from fashion to electronics can be
brac, books, furniture, carpets, and art t found here.
LITTLE
TLE INDIA AND
A
ORCHARD ROAD AD
THE COLONIAL CORE

AND CHINATOWN
LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder Map 3
STAR SIGHTS
. Peranakan Place . Ngee Ann City

Beyond Peranakan Places Baroque Chinese shophouse
. Tanglin Shopping
faade are cafs, pubs, and restaurants (see p234) 0
Center
. Peranakan Place
Centerpoint
Centerpoints flagship store,
Robinsons, has an excellent Plaza Singapura
range of household goods. One of the earliest malls on Orchard
The Heeren Road, Plaza Singapura was refur-
Cold Storage in the basement has
one of the best supermarket bished in the 1990s. As well as a
elections (see p234) q department store, it houses a number
of specialist outlets.
Cuppage Center
Park Mal
Furniture and inter
decoration are the
themes of Park Mall.
From the traditional to
the avantt garde, displays
Specialist Shopping Center include state-of-the-art
The mainstay of this mall is the kitchens and furniture
John Little Department Store. from Europe and Asia.
Dhoby Ghaut 9 the Peranakans (see p20).

Between 1900 and 1930,
Map 2 C4, 4 C1. q Dhoby Ghaut. 30 different owners built
@ 7, 14, 16, 36, 64, 65, 77, 85, residential units along
106, 111, 123, 124, 139, 143, 167, Emerald Hill Road resulting
171, 174, 190, 502, 518. 0 = in a street lined with unique
Peranakan architecture.
The area known as Dhoby Interesting features include
Ghaut takes its name from the the wooden pintu pagar, or
dhobies, or Indian laundrymen, half doors, often elaborately
who worked here many carved, across unconventional
years ago, and ghaut, which doorways. Also visible are
means landing place in Hindi. richly colored ceramic tiles,
Dhobiess used to go door-to- shuttered windows, mirrors
door, collecting clothes from above doors to ward off evil
residents and recording the spirits, and animal reliefs Centerpoint shopping center,
items in a book. They washed across brightly-painted faades Orchard Road
the clothes in the nearby to invite good luck. Toward
stream, which ran down the Orchard Road, these typical Centerpoint q
side of Orchard Road, and terrace houses were convert-
dried them on land that is ed into shophouses, with the 176 Orchard Road. Map 2 B4.
now occupied by the YMCA. first floors occupied by small Tell 6235-6629. q Somerset. @ 7,
This land was also once the provision stores, seamstresses, 14, 16, 65, 77, 106, 111, 123, 124,
site of detention and interro- and dry-goods stores. Other 143, 167, 171, 174, 190.
gation rooms used by the roads on Emerald Hill that # 10:30am8:30pm SunThu,
Japanese during World War II. developed between 1900 and 10:30am9:30pm Fri & Sat. 0 -
Next to the YMCA is a white 1930 were Hullet Road and
Presbyterian church establish- Saunders Road. The large shopping center,
ed by Scottish settlers in 1877. In 1984, the buildings on Centerpoint, is dominated by
It was once used as a supply Peranakan Place were care- the Robinsons Department
base for Japanese civilians. fully restored to their former Store, which first opened in
glory, making this area the 1858. The store claims to
only stretch of old shophouse have the best seasonal sales
Peranakan Place architecture left on Orchard in Singapore, one of which
and Emerald Hill 0 Road. Peranakan Place now coincides with the Great
comprises a group of modern Singapore Sale held in June
Emerald Hill Road. Map 2 B4. air-conditioned shops with an (see p247). There is a host
q Somerset. @ 7, 14, 16, 65, 77, eclectic mix of retailers offer- of other shops from branded
106, 111, 123, 124, 143, 167, 171, ing Eastern and Western Western retailers such as
174, 190. 7 0 - = goods. A French caf, Chinese Marks & Spencer and Lacoste
barbecue shop, Mediterranean to Singaporean and Hong
An upscale neighborhood of restaurant and wine cellar, Kong fashion outlets, jewelry
traditional residences, plush and an outdoor pub and shops, interior decoration,
boutiques, and pricey eateries restaurant combine to offer and furniture shops. The
today, Peranakan Place and a varied streetscape. Farther basement has a supermarket
Emerald Hill were orginally along, a row of shophouses and quick-service outlets.
granted in 1845 to Englishman at the pedestrianized Cuppage
William Cuppage, an officer Terrace have become flou-
in the postal service. Emerald rishing bars and interesting Ngee Ann City w
Hill was later acquired by sidewalk cafs.
391A Orchard Road. Map 2 A4.
Tell 6738-1111. q Orchard. @ 7,
14, 16, 65, 77, 106, 111, 123, 124,
143, 167, 171, 174, 190. # 10am
9:30pm daily. 0 -
Easily the most imposing mall

on Orchard Road, Ngee Ann
City has marble twin towers
and a main entrance that has
two silver columns and is
guarded by two hand-carved
foo dogs imported from China
to bring prosperity. The build-
ings atrium is five floors high,
crisscrossed by escalators, and
packed with over 100 local
The multicolored shophouses near Peranakan Place and international specialty
Designed by J. Bidwell, the

architect who also designed
its famous rival, Raffles Hotel,
Goodwood competed furiously
for famous guests Charlie
Chaplin stayed at Raffles while
Goodwood boasted the Duke
of Windsor as a patron.
When World War II broke
out, Goodwood was again
seized, this time by the occu-
pying Japanese forces. After
the war, it was chosen to be
the venue of a court dealing
with war crimes.
Today, this landmark, the
only colonial hotel apart from
Raffles, has returned to its
former incarnation. Its elegant
Modern sculpture and fountain in front of Ngee Ann City corridors are lined with art
and antique furniture and in
stores. The dazzling array the 1920s. From selling his 1989, the Tower Wing of the
of some of the worlds wares on an old cart, the hotel, distinguished by its
prestigious retailers includes dynamic C.K. Tang nurtured gable ends with ornamental
Gucci, Chanel, Tiffany, Cartier, his business into a store that plaster work, was selected as
Tods, Wedgwood, Burberry, rivals all others on Orchard a national monument. The
Kenzo, Waterford, Bulgari, Road. From under its distinc- hotel has also grown from its
Louis Vuitton, Loewe, and tive pagoda-style roof, Tangs original 60 rooms into a 234-
Takashimaya, a Japanese now sells everything from room luxury retreat with a
department store. cosmetics to rice cookers. fantastic range of restaurants.
Other facilities at the mall
include a post office, a ticket-
booking office, a bookstore, Tanglin Shopping
a library, various banks, a Center t
private health club, a night-
club Sparks on the top 19 Tanglin Road. Map 1 E2.
floor, and a caf with a great Tell 6737-0849. q Orchard. @ 7,
view over the Civic Plaza. 77, 105, 106, 111, 123, 132, 174,
502. # 11am7pm MonFri,
10:30am9pm Sat,10:30am8pm
Tangs e Sun. 0 - =
310 & 320 Orchard Road. Map 2 Tucked away at the far end of
A3. Tell 6737-5500. q Orchard. Orchard Road and removed
@ 7, 14, 16, 36, 64, 65, 77, 106, from the bustle is the quiet
111, 123, 124, 132, 139, 143, 167, Tanglin Shopping Center,
171, 174, 190, 502, 518, 700. unrivaled for its array of
# 11am9pm MonFri, 11am The distinctive tower of the elegant collectibles, antiques, and art.
9:30pm Sat, noon8:30pm Sun. 0 Goodwood Park Hotel Shop after shop offers a veri-
table treasure of Persian rugs,
The growth of Singapores Goodwood Park tapestries, curios made of jade
most famous department Hotel r and brass, and contemporary
store reflects the vision of a Southeast Asian art.
young Chinese immigrant of 22 Scotts Road. Map 2 A3. Tanglin, a favorite haunt of
Tell 6737-7411. q Orchard. expatriates, is home to some
@ 54, 105, 124, 132, 143, 167, of the firsts and bests of
171, 190, 518, 700. 0 = Singapore shopping. Antiques
www.goodwoodparkhotel.com of the Orient, the best-stocked
antique map and secondhand
Originally the Teutonia Club bookseller in Singapore, sells
for German expatriates in the fascinating prints, postcards,
early 1900s, the Goodwood and photographs. Apsara
Park Hotel was declared offers a good collection
enemy property and seized of Chinese and Burmese
by the government when antiques, and Select Books
World War I broke out in has a range of Southeast Asia
1914. In 1929, the club was titles. Also on offer are impec-
Entrance to Tangs department store converted into a hotel. cably tailored mens suits.
FAR THER AFIELD
S ome of Singapores mos

interesting sights lie
outside the city limits.
Though much of its west is Camping tents at Pasir Ris
dominated by industrialized
Singapore Zoological
Gardens. The Singapore
Botanic Gardens is a
treasure-house of rare
orchids. Other sights of
towns such as Jurong, it still contains historic and religious significance
s o m e m a j o r t o u r i s t a t t r a c t i o n s include the museum at Changi village
including the theme park Haw Par and Kusu Island. The island is famous
Villa, the Singapore Discovery Center, for its turtle legend and is popular
the Singapore Science Center, and the with Taoists and Muslims. To the
fascinating Jurong Bird and Reptile south, Sentosa, full of attractions and
Parks. The central north area retains activities, is the citys favorite getaway
the islands spectacular primary spot. East Coast Park offers a range of
rainforests and mangrove swamps and outdoor and indoor activities. The
is dedicated to most of its nature rustic island of Pulau Ubin is a
reserves, such as Bukit Timah and the peaceful retreat.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Parks, Gardens, and Singapore Zoological Singapore Discovery
Nature Preserves Gardens 1 Center 3
Bukit Timah Nature Singapore Science Center 5
Reserve 2 Museum
East Coast Park 0 Changi Museum q Outlying Islands
Jurong Bird and Reptile Parks 4 Kusu Island 8
Singapore Botanic Gardens Themed Attractions Pulau Ubin w
pp24041 6 Haw Par Villa 7 Sentosa pp2445 9
J
J
3 S
3FOUBO-BVU
-BVU 4U
J
O 1BTJS1BOKBO
BO
U1 BOEB
0 km 5
1VMBV#VLVN
1VMB J
J 0 miles 5

KEY
Street Finder J Ferry port Railroad
Built-up area Highway

N International airport Major road
Vibrant mythological figures at Haw Par Villa

Bukit Timah Nature

Reserve 2
177 Hindhede Drive. Tell 6468-5736.
q Newton. @ 171. # 8am6pm
daily. 0
One of the only two rain

forests in the world that are
within city limits, Bukit Timah
was established as a reserve
in Singapore in 1883 to
protect the native biodiversity.
Today, about 410 acres (164
ha) of the verdant rain forest,
which once covered the
entire island, still exist,
containing a cornucopia of
flora and fauna, and providing
The endangered Malayan tiger in Singapore Zoological Gardens a refuge for a variety of mam-
mals, birds, and reptiles. The
Singapore walk-through rain forest filled view from the disused quarry
with butterflies, bats, and lake is not to be missed. Bukit
Zoological birds, and the Primate Timah has cycling and walking
Gardens 1 Kingdom featuring lion-tailed trails, one of which leads to
macaques, brown capuchins, the highest point, Bukit Timah
80 Mandai Lake Road. Tell 6269- and golden-lion tamarins. Hill, 540 ft (164 m) above
3411. q Ang Mo Kio, Choa Chu There is also a childrens sea level. Free trail maps are
Kang. @ 138 from Ang Mo Kio, 927 petting zoo and aquariums available at the visitor center.
from Choa Chu Kang, 926 from offering clear underwater
Woodlands bus interchange (Sun & views of sea lions and
public hols), or 171 from the city penguins. The zoos breeding
(alight at Mandai Road, then take program is well-known and it
138 from across the road). # daily. has the distinction of fostering
& 7 8 optional. 0 = www. the worlds first tropical birth
zoo.com.sg Night Safari of a polar bear cub. There are
# 7:30pmmidnight daily daily animal shows and feed-
(last adm 11pm). & ^ ing times featuring sea lions,
elephants, primates, and
Set in refreshingly green and reptiles. Visitors also have the
peaceful surroundings, the opportunity to have breakfast
Singapore Zoo is one of or tea with the orangutans,
the worlds few open zoos, which makes it a wonderful
where animals roam freely and memorable visit.
in landscaped enclosures that The Night Safari, sprawled
simulate their habitats. Dry over 100 acres (40 ha) of lush
and wet moats camouflaged secondary forest next to the
by waterfalls and vegetation zoo, is a night zoo and a wild-
separate the animals from life park combined. This Cycling on the bike track at the
visitors. While some animals, unique sight allows visitors Bukit Timah Nature Reserve
such as leopards, jaguars, and to observe the nocturnal
pumas still have to be kept in activities of over 1,200
glass enclosures, others such animals belonging to over Singapore
as monkeys and peahens 110 different species. A 45- Discovery Center 3
roam freely. minute guided tram ride
The zoo houses about 3,000 (with a hop-on-hop-off 510 Upper Jurong Road. Tell 6792-
animals, representing 290 option) takes visitors through 6188. q Boon Lay. @ 193 from
species. Several of them eight habitats designed to Boon Lay. # 9am6pm TueSun,
are rare such as the white resemble the Himalayan, 9am8pm Sat. & 7 0 =
(Bengal) tiger and clouded Indian, Nepalese, African, www.sdc.com.sg
leopard, while others are Indo-Malayan, Southeast
endangered species such Asian, South American, and Originally intended as a
as the Komodo dragon and Burmese geographical museum to showcase the
the Malayan tiger. regions. Those who prefer to history of Singapore Armed
Major exhibits include Wild walk can choose from three Forces (SAF), the Singapore
Africa with its white rhinos designated walking trails for Discovery Center today gives
and magnificent lions, the a closer, moonlit encounter an interesting glimpse into
Fragile Forest, which is a with the parks inhabitants. Singaporean history. Recently,
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p291 and pp31213
F A R T H E R A F I E L D 239
Singapore Science
Center 5
15 Science Center Road, off Jurong
Town Hall Road. Tell 6425-2250.
q Jurong East. @ 66, 178, 198,
335. # 10am6pm TueSun &
public hols. 7 0 - = www.
science.edu.sg Omnimax Theater
# 9:30am8:30pm TueSun and
public hols. Regular screenings. &
Acclaimed as one of the

worlds top ten science
museums, the Singapore
Green iguana at Jurong Bird and Reptile Parks Science Center has over 850
hands-on exhibits in eight
the center has undergone Southeast Asian Birds Aviary,
A galleries that are dedicated
a major expansion and where a tropical thunderstorm variously to aviation, space
redevelopment of its exhi- is simulated daily at noon. science, ecology, biotech-
bition space. Located on This enclosure showcases nology, and IT among other
the Singapore Armed Forces one of the largest collections disciplines. Visitors can
Training Institutes (SAFTI) of Southeast Asian birds in explore innumerable scientific
grounds, the center is about the world. The penguin phenomena, and the Center
48,500 sq ft (4,500 sq m), enclosure has a recreated aims to make even the most
with five main galleries and Antarctic environment. Daily complex of principles more
eight different themes. birdshows include the World accessible and easier to under-
The center has a spectacular of Hawks, which features a stand. The emphasis here is
light and sound show with demonstration of the hunting on fostering the learning of
kaleidoscopic images of skills of birds of prey. science and technology in a
Singapore. For a truly sen- Not far from Jurong Bird creative, entertaining, and
sory experience, a visit to Park is the Jurong Reptile interactive way.
Singapores largest flat screen Park. Previously a crocodile Exhibits at the Science
theater with 2D and 3D park, the area now houses Center include one that
movies is a must. The center over 50 different species of enables visitors to experience
also offers a bus tour to army, reptiles and amphibians from the world from within a fish-
navy, and airforce grounds. around the world in a lush bowl. There is also a mock
natural environment. The television studio, where
parks inhabitants include children are encouraged to
Jurong Bird and giant tortoises, 1518 ft become journalists for a day.
Reptile Parks 4 (4.65.5 m) crocodiles, Next door, the Omnimax
king cobras, chameleons, Theater features spectacular
2 Jurong Hill, off Ayer Rajah iguanas, and anacondas. educational movies on
Expressway. Tell 6265-0022. q Boon Both children and adults science, technology, history,
Lay. @ 194, 251 from Boon Lay. enjoy the thrilling reptile adventure sports, space, and
# 9am6pm MonFri, 8am6pm shows and feeding sessions the universe. The movies
Sat, Sun & public hols. & 8 0 = daily, when crocodiles leap are projected on gigantic
www.birdpark.com.sg Jurong up to snatch their food from hemispherical screens in
Reptile Park 241 Jalan Ahmad the keepers. a 276-seat theater.
Ibrahim/Ayer Rajah Expressway. Tel
6261-8866. q Boon Lay. @ 194,
251 from Boon Lay. # daily. & 7
8 10am, 11am, 3pm, and 4pm.
0=
Over 8,000 birds of more than

600 species from all over the
world, including exotic and
endangered birds, can be seen
at Jurong Bird Park. The park
has four aviaries, including
the Waterfall A
Aviary, the
worlds largest walk-in aviary.
Here, visitors can walk among
1,500 free-flying birds against
the backdrop of the worlds
tallest man-made waterfall.
Other highlights include the Singapore Science Center, a place to explore science and technology
Singapore Botanic Gardens 6
The Singapore Botanic Gardens are located

close to the bustling city and serve
as a peaceful sanctuary. This idyllic
garden sits on 130 acres (52 ha)
of land and is dotted with lakes
inhabited by swans, ducks, and
turtles. The park is excellent for . National Orchid Garden
Dendrobium sonia
a stroll around its pretty waterfalls, With over 1,000 species, this
landscaped fountains, and well-situated rest spots. beautifully landscaped
Refrains of orchestral music can at times be heard garden has the
from outdoor concerts. It has both primary jungle largest display
and manicured lawns. The gardens orchid breeding of tropical
program, begun in 1928, has produced more than 2,000 orchids in
hybrids, with more being added each year. The garden the world.
has a reference library containing journals, rare books,
and botanical illustrations dating back to 1875.
VIP Orchid Garden

In 1928, the government
started breeding hybrid
orchids, and after
1957 started naming
selected ones for
distinguished guests.
Burkill Hall was home to many

the Gardens past directors,
luding Isaac Henry Burkill
d his son.
Bandstand
This octagonal
bandstand was
popular in the
1860s, when pro-
menading in the
gardens while listen-
ing to music played
by a band was a
fashionable pastime.
Swan Lake is home to a Sculptures

host of swans as well as Girl on a Swing (1984) is
a variety of pond flora. the first of a series of works
created by Sydney Harpley.
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Cluny Road. Map 1 D1.
Tel 6471-7361. q Orchard.
@ 7, 105, 106, 123. n Visitors
Center, Evans Road. # 5am
midnight daily. 8 optional.
0 - Outdoor concerts some
weekends. www.sbg.org.sg
0 meters 100
0 yards 100
. Yuen-Peng McNeice Bromeliad Collection
The collection of 20,000 bromeliads, which come from the Towards
Eco Lake
forests of Central and South America, was donated by Lady
Yuen-Peng
- McNeice. More than 700 species
and 500 hybrids can be seen.
EJH Corner House

This colonial bungalow has been
converted into a restaurant with a
pleasant view of the idyllic surroundings.
The Tan Hoon Siang Mist House

contains rare orchid blooms.
Cultural artifacts particular to
the orchids country of origin
are displayed alongside.
Visitors Center
The center has an information counter, a
caf, a shop, and restrooms, as well as
ample parking space. It has its own main
entrance access from Evans Road.
STAR
T SIGHTS
. National Orchid
Symphony Lake
Garden
On an islet in the middle of Symphony Lake
is the Shaw Foundation Symphony stage. . Yuen-Peng McNeice
Concerts and performances are regularly Bromeliad Collection
held in the pavilion.
East Coast Park 0

Off East Coast Parkway (ECP). @ 13,
15, 16, 31, 196, 197 to Marine
Terrace and take underpass across
ECP. 0 - =
The stretches of beach along

East Coast Park are consid-
ered among the best in the
country. The park stretches
for more than 6 miles (10 km)
along the coast from Changi
Airport to Marina Bay. The
seafront is lined with palm
trees, shady rest areas, and
park benches. For the fitness-
Exhibit from Chinese folklore at Haw Par Villa conscious there are walking
and jogging paths, as well
Haw Par Villa 7 November), when Taoist and as well-marked cycling
Muslim devotees flock to the and in-line skating tracks.
262 Pasir Panjang Road. Tell 6339- island on an annual pilgrim- Bicycle hire shops in the area
6833. q Buona Vista. @ 10, 30, age. Taoists visit the Tua Pek offer a choice of racers and
51,143, 200. # 9am6pm daily. Kong Temple located on the mountain bikes or tandems
0 = Hua Song Museum island. The temple is dedi- for couples. There is also
Mon. & cated to Tua Pek Kong, the an in-line skate rental and
patron saint of merchants. repair store.
This landscaped park has Devotees pray for prosperity, Fishing enthusiasts can
picturesque surroundings, good luck, and wealth, light set up their rods; picnickers
carp ponds, and statues joss sticks, and make offerings can pitch tents on the beach;
depicting aspects of Chinese of flowers and food. health buffs can work out at
folklore. Established by the Muslim devotees climb 122 the outdoor fitness stations,
Haw brothers with the fortune steps up a steep hill to visit and bird-watchers can take
they made from Tiger Balm, a Malay shrine of Keramat a walk through designated
their camphor and menthol Kusu. Childless couples mark bird sanctuaries.
remedy, this theme park is their prayers by tying pieces The pleasing sea breezes
based on Chinese legends of cloth around trees on their and scenic views of the East
and myths and aims to teach way up to the shrine. Coast Park make this a very
traditional values. Over 1,000 The island is known for fashionable place to live. The
statues and tablets show its two blue lagoons, its vast area is well-provided with
mythical creatures and tell pristine beaches, and a wish- bars, chic restaurants, and a
stories from Chinese folklore. ing well. It has undergone host of recreational facilities.
The Ten Courts of Hell much development and has The food on offer ranges
section graphically portrays a pleasant spot for picnics. from fast food and hawker
the punishment for sins such However, overnight stays are fare to seafood and Western
as gambling and theft, and not permitted on the island. snacks. At the East Coast
the Hua Song Museum Recreation Center, indoor
displays the lifestyles and activities such as bowling,
clothing artifacts of ethnic Sentosa 9 snooker, and childrens
Chinese communities. games can be enjoyed. For
See pp2445. watersports, the Pasta Fresca
Kusu Island 8
Tel 6275-0388 for ferry times.
g from Marina South Pier. &
Includes ferry ticket.
According to legend, Kusu

Island, otherwise known as
Turtle Island, was actually a
giant turtle which transformed
itself into land to save two
shipwrecked sailors, one
Chinese and one Malay.
Kusu Island receives most
of its visitors during the ninth
lunar month (October or Taoist Tua Pek Kong Temple on Kusu Island
Seasports Center offers Murals, which were originally wooden fishing boats, line
windsurfing and sailing (see drawn by prisoner Stanley the beach; and fishing nets
p256). Holiday chalets can Warren on the walls, are spread out to dry in the sun.
be rented for short-term also on display. The island has a variety of
stays. These chalets on the In the museums courtyard flora and fauna and includes
beachfront also provide is a replica of the simple species that once existed on
facilities such as swimming thatched-roof wooden chapel the mainland but now can
pools, spas, and barbecue built by the POWs. The brass only be found here. These
pits. The East Coast Park is cross at the wreathed altar include various fruit trees
a local favorite, especially was crafted out of spent such as coconut, durian,
for weekend family outings. artillery casings. rambutan, and jackfruit, wild
Tour groups of ten or more berries, wild orchids, the
people are required to inform insect-trapping pitcher plant,
the museum of their visit, at several medicinal plants and
least three days in advance. herbs, and mangrove flora.
The islands wildlife includes
monkeys, monitor lizards,
Pulau Ubin w water hens, squirrels, fruit
bats, and snakes such as
q Tanah Merah, Tampines. @ 2, pythons and cobras. The
29. 4 from Changi Village. waters around the island teem
# daily. 0 - = with fish, crabs, and prawns.
Pulau Ubin is also a good
Singapores second largest spot for bird-watchers as birds
offshore island, Pulau Ubin, of prey such as eagles, kites,
Families cycling along well-marked which sits in the Johor Strait and hawks, and migratory
tracks at East Coast Park between Changi and the birds nest here during the
mouth of the Johor River, is northern winter months.
perhaps the last place left for Bicycles can be rented from
Changi Museum q a peek into the rustic the jetty. The community
atmosphere of Singapore center nearby
1000 Upper Changi Road North. as it was in the 1960s. A has a good
Tell 6214-2451. q Tanah Merah, Malay and Chinese collection of
Tampines. @ 2, 29. # 9:30am community once photographs
5pm (4:30pm last admission). engaged in farm- of life on the
5 5:30pm Sun. 8 - = ing, granite island during its
Chalets available for rent. quarryr ing, and heyday. There
www.changimuseum.com fishing on the island. are also a few
Today, only about 200 Jackfruit grown seafood rest-
Changi Prison, which once people live on Pulau in Pulau Ubin aurants, old-style
served as a World War II Ubin. Measuring only coffee shops, and
prisoner-of-f war camp for 5 miles (8 km) across and sundry shops that offer
Allied troops, is still in use. 1 mile (1.5 km) wide, Pulau necessities for the visitor,
Changi Museum is located Ubin is the site of a traditional such as insect repellent,
just up the road from the Malay fishing village. The sun-block, hats, canned
prison, at the site of the Old remnants of rural kampung drinks, and snacks. A couple
Changi Prison Chapel. The life can still be seen here: of taxis ply the gravel tracks.
museum is dedicated to all attap, or thatched-roof, and Campsites, chalets, and
those who lived and died in zinc-roofed wooden houses lodges provide overnight
Singapore, in particular the stand on stilts; sampans, or accommodation on the island.
prisoners who suffered
unspeakable torture at the
hands of Japanese jailers
during their internment here.
Over the years, the museum
has amassed a valuable
collection of photographs,
paintings, and personal effects
donated by former POWs and
their families. A selection
of photographs by George
Aspinall, then a young
Australian trooper, and more
than 400 sketches by W.R.M.
Haxworth are among the
works of art by various prison
artists that are showcased
here. Replicas of the Changi Rustic Malay kampung house on Pulau Ubin
Sentosa 9
Sentosa Island was once called Balakang Mati,

which means behind the dead in Malay. One of
the theories about the origins of this name speaks of
a mysterious disease that claimed the lives of nearly
all the original settlers. The British used the island as
a military base until 1967. Today, Sentosa, which
means peace in Malay, has been transformed into
. Fort Siloso
The last bastion of the British during
World War II, this fort was built . Images of Singapore
in the 1880s and is an intriguing Using lifelike wax figures, this museum
complex of bunkers, cannons, and showcases Singapores diverse cultures
underground passageways. and explores the countrys unique history.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p291 and p313
VISITORS CHECKLIST
1.3 miles (2.1 km) S of
Singapore. Tell 6275-0388.
@ to Sentosa; or to Mount
Faber or Harborfront Center, then
cable car. Sentosa Express.
g # 9am9pm daily. & 7
0 = www.sentosa.com.sg
STA
T R SIGHTS
. Underwater World
Palawan Beach
. Fort Siloso
A suspension bridge links Palawan Beach to a small
islet that is believed to be the southernmost tip of . Images of Singapore
continental Asia.
SHOPPING IN SINGAPORE
S ingapore is a shoppers paradise.
Scores of shops at every turn
offer almost unlimited
choices. Whether you want to
immerse yourself in the plush
antiques, curios, jewelry, and more.
Away from the exclusive stores
and boutiques, some of the most
exciting shopping can be found
in Little India, Chinatown, and
shopping arcades of Orchard Arab Street. A rich selection of
Road or Raffles City, or scour the traditional Southeast Asian handi-
flea markets and back alleys of the crafts, such as fine caneware, batik,
ethnic quarters, Singapore caters to and textiles, is sold from stalls and
all tastes and budgets. Best known specialist stores. Singapore is also
for its array of attractively priced elec- famous for its bargains and sales,
tronic goods, such as computers, especially on electronic goods, but
mobile phones, and cameras, do spend some time browsing to
Singapore also offers a tantaliz- A traditional find the best deals and only buy
ing choice of luxury brands, art, Oriental happy coat from reputable dealers.
electrical to household goods. HOW TO PAY

Japanese chain stores Isetan,
Takashimaya, and Seiyu are International credit cards are
very popular, as is the British accepted at most shops
retail outlet Marks & Spencer. MasterCard, VISA, American
Singapores department stores Express, Diners Club, and
and malls are well organized, Citibank. If a surcharge is
with obliging staff, and usually charged by the shop for the
an informative help desk. use of credit cards, the cus-
tomer is often allowed to call
the local office of the card
SHOPPING HOURS company for a discount.
The upmarket Tanglin Mall However, some of the smaller
on Orchard Road Most shops and malls are shops and the hawker stalls
open every day from 10am to insist on being paid in cash.
DEPARTMENT STORES 9pm, though a few stay open Bargaining is an accepted
AND MALLS until 10pm or later. Mustafa practice in Singapore. Depart-
Center in Little India is an ment stores generally have
Orchard Road (see pp2323), exception it is open 24 hours fixed prices, but most other
with its vast stretch of glitzy a day, making it great for a shops, even in high-end malls,
department stores and malls, midnight shopping excursion. may be open to bargaining.
such as Tanglin Shopping The revamped Clarke Quay It is best to be knowledgable
Center, Ngee Ann City, and opens around 5pm and stays about the correct value of a
Wisma Atria, is packed with open until midnight. Little product. Start by asking the
just about everyr thing one India and Arab Street are best shopkeeper for his best price
could want shoes, clothes, avoided on Fridays as several and then negotiate a suitable
books, music, jewelry, car- shops may be closed for the deal. Keep the exchange
pets, curios, and especially Muslim holy day. All 7-Eleven good-natured. Though several
branded luxury items. Tangs convenience stores are open high-end shopping centers
(see p234) and Robinsons at 24 hours a day. may accept travelers checks
Centerpoint are two of the
oldest department stores on
Orchard Road. Park Mall
specializes in furniture and
interior decoration. Major
shopping malls can be found
in the city center, including
Parco Bugis Junction, Raffles
Hotel Shopping Arcade, and
Raffles City Shopping Center.
Suntec City Mall is farther out
near Marina Bay. For electronic
goods, head to Sim Lim Square
orr Funan Digitalife Mall. Little
Indias Mustafa Center,
a Singapore favorite, sells
every conceivable item, from The Alessi Shop, a designer furnishing store in Park Mall
S H O P P I N G I N S I N G A P O R E 247
system for visitors, where

claims can be filed for a fee
of S$10 up to 1 percent of the
claim amount. Visitors can
avail themselves of the elec-
tronic mediation service at
the E@DR Centers in the sub-
ordinate courts. Claims can be
filed with this center by email
at any time during the trip or
after returning home.
PERMITS AND LAWS
Singapore has a reputation

for stringent laws against the
One of the many Southeast Asian handicrafts shops purchase and transport of
weapons, endangered
in major currencies, it is stay. Ensure that a warranty species, and narcotics. Even
always preferable to use the card that is recognized inter- the smallest offence is not
Singapore dollar. Travelers nationally is provided with overlooked and can result in
checks can be cashed at a any electronic product and is a fine, caning, or brief impris-
number of banks, which are properly dated and stamped. onment. Visitors should be
open from 9:30am to 3:30pm very careful about what they
on weekdays, and 9:30am CONSUMER CLAIMS buy and where they make
to 11:30am on Saturdays. their purchases.
Currency can be exchanged Several stores display the
at all banks and hotels which Gold Circle which means
display the Licensed Money they have been certified by
Changer sign. the Singapore Tourism Board
for the quality of goods and
SALES services they offer visitors.
Hotels, tourist offices, and
Daily newspapers such as the airport can provide a
The Straits Timess have listings free listing of these stores.
of all current sales. The free The country has an excellent
monthlies, Where Singapore redress policy for tourist com-
and Singapore Shopping Guide, plaints, such as being cheated
published by the Singapore by a retailer or finding that an
Tourism Board, also give international guarantee card
details on shopping options. has not been properly filled
But for the true thrill of out. Advice and assistance A busy Sunday flea market in
Singapores best bargains, are available from the Retail Singapore
time your trip during the Promotions Center. Visitors
Great Singapore Sale, held complaints against retailers TAXES AND REFUNDS
every year in June and July can also be registered at the
and promoted by the Consumer Association of In Singapore, a 7 percent
Singapore Tourism Board. Singapore. The Small Claims Goods and Services Tax
This super- r sale offers discounts Tribunal has a fast-track (GST) is levied on most goods
of up to 80 percent on almost and services. A tax refund can
all goods and is the perfect be claimed on purchases
chance to strike off all those worth S$100 or more made at
things crowding your wish shops that display a Tax Free
list. Visitors from neighboring Shopping logo. Claims can
countries are known to fly in be made at GST counters at
just for this sale. Changi International Airport
and cash refund centers
GOODS RETURN POLICIES across the country, including
those at Funan Digitalife Mall,
Most large stores provide Sim Lim Square, and Wisma
shoppers with a receipt, and Atria. Receipts and purchased
accept returns of unused items should be retained as
goods in original condition they will be needed for
within three days of purchase. verification before a refund
Of course it is better to be is given. Refunds are limited
sure of a purchase to avoid to S$500 per person, and a
complications later. Keep all Interior of Ngee Ann City, one of credit card will be required
receipts until the end of your Singapores premier shopping malls as proof of identity.
Where to Shop SHOES AND BAGS
Malls and shopping centers are considered convenient All the international designer
places to shop, as an extensive range of products is labels offer a superb selection
available under one roof. Some malls have become of shoes and bags at their
popular for a particular product, such as Sim Lim Square stores on Orchard Road and
other upmarket shopping
and Funan Digitalife Mall, which are known for elec- arcades. Louis Vuitton, Fendi,
tronic goods. There are several smaller boutiques and and Ferragamo are popular
specialist outlets to choose from. Many warehouses and with shoppers. Charles &
traditional shophouses throughout the city, such as those Keith and Substance are
that line the river, have been renovated into shopping among the sought-after
venues. Little India, Chinatown, and Arab Street brim brands for shoes. Singapore
with shops and galleries that sell handicrafts from their is also known for its wide
respective regions as well as from other Asian countries. range of footwear at afford-
able prices especially at
Tangs and On Pedder. Arab
CLOTHES AND FABRICS and samfoo, which can be Street is the place to head to
bought readymade. Chinese for fine leather products.
In Singapore, you will find silk garments are available at
international designer brands, Tangs. Sizes of readymade ANTIQUES AND CRAFTS
such as Gucci, Calvin Klein, garments are in keeping with
Burberry, Emporio Armani, the petite Asian body frame. Antiques and handicrafts
Hugo Boss, Giordano, and available in Singapore are pre-
Chanel, located along Orchard JEWELRY dominantly Southeast Asian.
Road and at the other major Tanglin Shopping Center (see
shopping areas. Local design- For exclusive platinum and p235) is the popular place for
ers, including Vera Wang, 18-carat gold jewelry, antiques and art. Old
stock a blend of contempo- luxury brands such as maps and curios from
rary Chinese and Western Bulgari and Tiffany the Southeast are
fashion. The latest collections have outlets at Raffles stocked at Antiques
from top Indian fashion Hotel Shopping of the Orient. The
designers are displayed at Arcade, Orchard many shops at Clarke
the upscale Mumbai Se. Road, and Raffles Quay, the renovated
For a great selection of City Shopping Center. warehouses along
textiles, the best areas are Local jewelers Larry Dempsey Road, and
Arab Street (see p228) and Jewelry and Lee Hwa Handmade mask Lims Arts & Crafts are
Serangoon Road (see p229) are reputed for their also good places. For
in Little India. Indonesian excellent craftsmanship. For good handmade Kashmiri,
and Malaysian batikk silks antiques or gold fashioned Persian, and Turkish carpets,
are available on Arab Street, in ethnic designs, such as Amir & Sons in Kampong
sold mostly by the meter. Chinese ornaments and Indian Glam, the oldest carpet shop
Batikss are also sold in sarong jewelry, Chinatown and Little in Singapore, is worth a
lengths (about 6 ft/2 m) India offer the best selection. visit. Arab Street is known
and as readymade garments. Cheaper imitations of the gold for Southeast Asian crafts
Indian sariss (a 6 yard/5.5 m jewelry are available as well. such as fine cane products.
length of cloth) can be found Chinatown is also a good place Chinatown offers religious
in Little India. Chinatown to buy Chinese jade jewelry. and architectural artifacts.
(see pp21821) specializes in The hawker stalls at Clarke Brass statues and lamps can
Chinese silk and traditional Quay (see p217) offer a good be found both in Little India
garments such as cheongsam range of trendy silver pieces. as well as in Chinatown.
Stacks of traditional Oriental textiles in vivid colors and patterns

DIRECTORY
DEPARTMENT Suntec City Mall Sim Lim Square Lee Hwa
STORES AND 3 Temasek Boulevard. 1, Rochor Canal Road. 01-23, 200 Victoria
MALLS Map 5 F1. Tell 6825-2667. Map 3 E4. Tell 6338- Street. Map 3 D5.
www.sunteccity.com.sg 3859. www.simlim.net. Tel 6334-2838.
Funan Digitalife Open 11am8pm daily.
Takashimaya www.leehwa.com.sg
Mall
109 North Bridge Road. 391 Orchard Road. Map Wisma Atria Tiffany
Map 3 E4. 2 A4. Tel 6738-1111. 435 Orchard Road. Map 01-05 Raffles Hotel
Tel 6336-8327. www.takashimaya-sin. 2 A4. Tel 6235-2103.
Shopping Arcade, 328
www.funan.com.sg com www.wismaonline.com.
North Bridge Road. Map
Isetan Scotts Tanglin Shopping CLOTHES AND 3 E4. Tel 6334-0168.
350 Orchard Road. Map Center FABRICS www.tiffany.com/
1 F2. Tel 6733-1111. 163 Tanglin Road. Map locations
www.isetan.com.sg 1 E2. Tel 6736-4922. Burberry
www.tanglinmall.com.sg 01-28 Ngee Ann City. SHOES AND BAGS
Marks & Spencer
Map 2 A4.
501 Orchard Road. Map Tangs Charles & Keith
1 F2. Tel 6733-8122. Tel 6735-1283.
310/320 Orchard Road.
01-05 Wisma Atria, 435
www.marksandspencer. Map 2 A3. Tell 6737- Calvin Klein Orchard Road. Map 2 A4.
com 5500. www.tangs.com 01-32 Ngee Ann City.
Tel 6238-3312.
Mustafa Center Map 2 A4.
Wisma Atria www.charleskeith.com
145 Syed Alwi Road. Map Tel 6887-5981.
435 Orchard Road. Map
3 E2. Tel 6295-5855. 2 A4. Tel 6235-2103. Fendi
Chanel
www.mustafa.com.sg www.wismaonline.com. 01-32 Ngee Ann City.
01-25 Ngee Ann City.
Map 2 A4. Tel 6733- Map 2 A4. Tel 6733-
Ngee Ann City
CONSUMER CLAIMS 5120. www.chanel.com. 0337.
2 A4. Tel 6739-9323. Consumer Emporio Armani Ferragamo
www.ngeeanncity.com.sg Association of 508 Orchard Road. Map 290 Orchard Road. Map
Parco Bugis Junction Singapore 1 F2. Tel 6735-8063. 1 F2. Tel 6738-3206.
200 Victoria Street. Map 170 Ghim Moh Road.
Giordano Louis Vuitton
3 D5. Tel 6557-6557. Tel 6463-1811.
B2-28 Ngee Ann City. 01-20/24 Ngee Ann City,
www. bugisjunction-mall. www.case.org.sg
Map 2 A3. 391 Orchard Road. Map
com.sg
E@DR Centers Tel 6736-4302. 2 A4. Tel 6734-7760.
Park Mall www.e-adr.gov.sg www.louisvitton.com
Gucci
9 Penang Road. Map one of several branches
Retail Promotions 01-40 Paragon, 290
3 C5 Tel 6339-4031.
Center Orchard Road. Map 2 A4. On Pedder
Raffles City Blk 1 Thomson Road. Tel 6734-2528. 02-12 P/Q, Tower B, Ngee
Shopping Center Map 2 B1.
Ann City. Map 2 A4.
Hugo Boss
252 North Bridge Road. Tel 6352-9909.
01-03 Ngee Ann City, 391 Tel 6835-1307.
Map 5 E2. www.rpc.com.sg
Orchard Road. Map 2 A4.
Tel 6338-7766. Substance
Small Claims Tell 6735-0233.
www.rafflescity.com 02-12 Wheelock Place,
Tribunal
Raffles Hotel Mumbai Se 501 Orchard Road. Map
1 Havelock Square.
02-03 Palais Renaissance, 1 F2. Tel 6836-0111.
Shopping Arcade Map 4 C3. Tel 6435-
328 North Bridge Road. 5937. www.smallclaims.
Map 5 E1. Tel 6337- 1 F2. Tel 6733-7188. ANTIQUES AND
gov.sg
1886. www.raffleshotel. Vera Wang CRAFTS
com/arcade TAXES AND 390 Orchard Road.
Amir & Sons
Robinsons REFUNDS Map 1 F2. Tel 6235-4648.
Lucky Plaza, 304 Orchard
176 Orchard Road. Map www.verawang.com
Changi International Road. Map 1 F2.
2 B4. Tel 6733-0888. Airport Tel 6734-9112.
www.robinsons.com.sg JEWELRY
50 Airport Boulevard.
Antiques of the
Seiyu Tell 6542-1122. Bulgari
www.changiairport.com. 02-1/3 Ngee Ann City.
Orient
230 Victoria Street.
Open 24 hours. Map 2 A4. Tel 6735- 02-40 Tanglin Shopping
Map 3 D5. Tel 6223-
2222. www.bhg 6689. www.bulgari.com Center. Map 1 D3.
Funan Digitalife Mall Tel 6734 9351.
singapore.com.sg
109 North Bridge Larry Jewelry www.aoto.com.sg
Sim Lim Square Road. Map 3 E4. 02-12 Ngee Ann City.
1 Rochor Canal Road. Tell 6336-8327. Map 2 A4. Lims Arts & Crafts
Map 3 E4. www.funan.com.sg. Tel 6732-3322. Holland Road Shopping
Tell 6338-3859. Open 11am8pm daily. www.larryjewelry.com Center. Tel 6467-1300.
COMPUTERS SINGAPORE
MEMORABILIA
Funan Digitalife Mall, the
main computer shopping The ubiquitous Merlion, the
center in Singapore, also half-fish,
f halff-lion symbol of
claims to be the largest Singapore, is the most popu-
computer store in Asia. lar souvenir. A wide range
Located between the Excelsior of items sporting the symbol
and Peninsula Hotels in the is available, including coffee
Colonial Core, it has five mugs, T-shirts, pendants,
floors packed with shops stuffed toys, musical trinket
selling computers, software, boxes, china plates, key rings,
and other electronic equip- and much more. There are
ment. The prices here are gift shops at most Singapore
somewhat lower than those national gardens and muse-
A display of high-end audio elsewhere and a number of ums, which also offer an
equipment special deals and offers are interesting collection of
available so it is a good idea mementos. Museum shops
ELECTRONIC GOODS to compare prices. Two such as those at the National
popular computer shops Museum of Singapore offer
The absence of import duties are Proton-Wisma Computers an array of products inspired
makes Singapore one of the and The Mac Shop at the by the collections on display.
most popular places to buy Funan Center. Other good The Garden Shop at the
electronic gadgets. Several places to buy computers Singapore Botanic Gardens
stores stock the latest high- include Suntec City Mall and (see pp24041) stocks an
tech audio-visual products. Sim Lim Square (see p249). As eclectic range of books
Latest models are available at with many stores, bargaining on natural history. Raffles
specialist centers such as The is an accepted practice. Hotel has an excellent
Sony Center. Sim Lim Square Raffles Hotel Gift Shop.
and Mustafa Center are the BOOKS AND MUSIC
best for music systems, tele- ORCHIDS
visions, and DVD players. The HMV has the most extensive
Adelphi Shopping Center is selection of music with over Orchids are the countrys
good for audio products. Make 200,000 CD titles. Separate national flower and more
sure a worldwide guarantee is floors are dedicated to than 3,000 varieties of this
provided and that your pur- different genres of music, exotic flower are grown at the
chase is compatible with the including sections on classical National Orchid Garden and
voltage system in your country. music, jazz, rock, and pop. the Mandai Orchid Garden.
Borders also has a good The 5-acre (2-ha) Mandai
CAMERAS AND WATCHES selection. It is also popular Orchid Garden has a vintage
for its excellent childrens garden and even a tropical
Most electronics shops and books section. For the best orchid fruit garden. Part of
dedicated camera shops stock range of titles on Southeast Singapore Botanic Gardens,
brands such as Nikon, Canon, Asian subjects visit Select the National Orchid Garden
and Olympus. Cathay Photo Books. Japanese bookstore has over 1,000 species and
Store and Mustafa Center Kinokuniya stocks a number 2,000 hybrids. Every year new
have a good range of all of titles in several languages. hybrids are added to the
the popular camera brand They sell Chinese books and gardens collection. The gar-
names. The shops also offer also have a bargain section. dens have gift shops where
equipment for professional Times the Bookstore is the orchids can be packed
photographers. A huge range another favorite. and shipped home upon
of watches is available at
most shopping centers. Many
companies such as Rolex
and Swatch have their own
outlets, while The Hour Glass
stocks an expensive range,
including the exquisite Gerald
Genta, De Bethune, and
steely Daniel Roth pieces. The
bustling Lucky Plaza is known
for cameras and watches.
Branded second-hand watches
can also be bought at Peng
Kwee. The Camera Workshop
at Peninsula Shopping Center
sells second-hand cameras
and collectors models. Orchids at Mandai Orchid Garden
request. Unique gold-plated souvenirs. Aromatic ground and Faber Forest Gift Shop.
orchids can be purchased at spices from Little India can The Tea Chapter in Chinatown
the RISIS Store at Suntec City be used to flavor curries and has a delightful selection of
Mall or the Mandai Orchid marinades. Singaporean teapots, cups, accessories,
Gardens gift shop. delicacies such as kaya, a and fine teas for sale. Brown
toast spread, and the Hainan Rice Paradise and Tierneys
GOURMET FOOD chicken-rice paste mix, along Gourmet are also worth a
with other ready-to-serve visit. Handmade chocolates
Singapore is a renowned foods are available at all Bee and premium quality caviar
gourmet destination and a Cheng Hiang outlets, Kees are some of the gourmet
number of specialty foods Gourmet Boutique, Chinatown foods from around the world
are available as gifts and Heritage Center (see p218), stocked at Thos. S.B. Raffles.
DIRECTORY
ELECTRONIC Swatch Select Books RISIS Store
GOODS 81-27 Plaza Singapura, 03-15 Tanglin Shopping 01-084 Suntec City Mall,
68 Orchard Road. Map Center, 19 Tanglin 3 Temasek Blvd.
Adelphi Shopping
Road. Map 1 D3. Map 3 E5. Tel 6338-
Center 1 F2. Tel 6334-8042.
1 Coleman Street. Map Tel 6732-1515. 8250. www.risis.com
www.swatch.com
5 D2. Tel 6339-9179. www.selectbooks.com.sg
GOURMET FOOD
The Sony Center COMPUTERS Times the Bookstore
04-01 Wisma Atria, 435 04-08 Centerpoint, 176 Bee Cheng Hiang
Orchard Road. Map 2 A4. Proton-Wisma Orchard Road. Map 1 F2. 1359 Serangoon Road.
Tel 6473-6500. Computers Tel 6734-9022.
Map 3 E1. Tel 6291-
109 North Bridge Road. One of several branches.
5753. www.bch.com.sg
CAMERAS AND
WATCHES Map 3 E4.
SINGAPORE Brown Rice
Tel 6338-3066.
MEMORABILIA Paradise
Camera Workshop
Peninsula Shopping The Mac Shop 03-15 Tanglin Mall, 163
The Garden Shop
Center, 3 Coleman Street. 411 Funan Digitalife Tanglin Road. Map 1 D3.
Singapore Botanic
Map 5 D2. Center. Map 5 D2. Tel 6738-1121.
Gardens, 1 Cluny Road.
Tel 6336-1956.
Tel 6334-1633. Map 1 D1. Tel 6475- Chinatown
Cathay Photo Store 2319. www.natures Heritage Center
01-11-14 Peninsula BOOKS AND niche.com 48 Pagoda Street.
Plaza, 111 North Bridge
MUSIC National Museum Map 4 C3. Tel 6325-
Road. Map 3 E4.
of Singapore Shop 2878. www.chinatown
Tel 6337-4274.
Borders heritage.com.sg
www.cathayphoto.com. 93 Stamford Road.
100 Wheelock Place, 501
sg Map 3 D5. Tel 6332- Faber Forest Gift
Orchard Road. Map 1 F2. 3251. www.museum
The Hour Glass Shop
Tel 6235-7146. www. shop.com.sg
01-02 Takashimaya 109 Mount Faber Road.
Shopping Center, 391 bordersstores.com/stores
Raffles Hotel Gift Tel 6377-9670.
Orchard Road. Map 2 A4. Shop
HMV The Tea Chapter
Tel 6734-2420.
01-01 Raffles Hotel, 1
www.thehourglass.com 111 The Hereen, 260 911 Neil Road, Tanjong
Beach Road. Map 3 F4.
Orchard Road. Map 1 F2. Pagar. Map 4 C4.
Lucky Plaza Tel 6412-1143.
Tel 6733-1822. Tell 6226-3026.
304 Orchard Road. Map www.raffleshotelgifts.com
1 F2. Tel 6235-3294. www.tea-chapter.com.sg
1 Raffles Link, B147
www.luckyplaza.com.sg
CityLink Mall. ORCHIDS Thos. S.B. Raffles
Peng Kwee Map 3 E2. National Orchid 01-30 Raffles Hotel
01-45A Peninsula Plaza, Arcade,1 Beach Road.
Tel 6238-7218. Garden
111 North Bridge Street. Map 3 F4.
www.hmvgroup.com 1 Cluny Road. Map 1 D1.
Map 3 E4. Tel 6334- Tel 6412-1148.
Tel 6471-7361.
0155. www.pengkwee. Kinokuniya www.sbg.org.sg www.raffleshotelgifts.
com.sg
03-10 Ngee Ann City, 391 com
Rolex Mandai Orchid
Orchard Road. Map 2 A4.
1-01 Tong Building, 302 Garden Tierneys Gourmet
Tel 6737-5021. 200 Mandai Lake Road. 02-01/04 Serene Center,
Orchard Road. Map 1 F2.
Tel 6737-9033. www.kinokuniya.com.sg Tel 6269-1036. 10 Jalan Serene.
www.rolex.com One of several branches. www.mandai.com.sg Tel 6466-7451.
ENTERTAINMENT IN SINGAPORE
I n its endeavor to become a
regional center for the
arts, Singapore delights
visitors with a diverse array of
entertainment, ranging
held throughout the year. Performance
venues are scattered throughout the
island, but among those that hold
pride of place are the
Riverside Arts District,
from classical to contem- the striking Esplanade
A Chinese dancer
porary. Professional and performing at full stretch Theaters on the Bay,
amateur theater groups, dance and the open-air Fort
troupes, and orchestras offer Asian per- Canning Park. Singaporeans love their
formances and Western productions. The nightlife and its increasingly eclectic
lively scene is enhanced by the presence mix of venues jazz clubs, blues bars,
of international artists, who come to nightclubs, karaoke lounges, and tradi-
participate in the many arts festivals tional pubs will satisfy all tastes.
INFORMATION best to call ahead and confirm. FESTIVALS

Access Singapore, run by the
Daily newspapers, such as National Council of Social Singapore hosts several
The Straits Times, carry Services has a detailed list performing arts festivals
comprehensive listings of of venues with amenities. throughout the year. The riv-
current and upcoming events. eting Singapore Arts Festival,
Brochures at hotels and free VENUES held every June, is one of the
publications including Where highlights, drawing interna-
Singapore, Juice Magazine, Ever since its opening, tional acts, as does the
Think Magazine, and I-S Esplanade Theaters on the four-day, open-air WOMAD
(Inside Singapore) also carry Bay has been the focal point (World of Music, Arts, and
detailed listings and reviews. for the performing arts, Dance). The Buskers Festival
Internet websites, such as though the elegant Chijmes for street performers is held
singaporetheatre.com, are Hall, Jubilee Hall, and Victoria by the riverside every
also an excellent resource for Theater & Concert Hall are still November. The Singapore
all the latest information. traditional favorites for theater International Film Festival,
and musical performances. which screens about 300
TICKETS Cox Terrace at Fort Canning movies, has been held every
k and the Shaw Foundation
Park April for over 15 years. It
It is best to purchase tickets at Symphony Stage, perched showcases mainstream cine-
least two days in advance at on a lake at the Singapore ma, documentaries, and
the venue itself, though some Botanic Gardens, are popular animation from around the
shows may be totally booked outdoor venues. Singapore world. More recently, The
out months ahead. Internet Indoor Stadium, Kallang Substation has been organiz-
booking is now a convenient Theater, and the University ing an alternative Singapore
option. TicketCharge and Cultural Center are preferred Short Film Festival. The most
SISTIC are two outlets that for large concerts, especially popular, and allegedly Asias
handle tickets for most events. for visiting international largest, outdoor cinema festival
Check the schedules on their artists, while the DBS Arts is held by Starlight Cinemas
websites, by telephone, or by Center, The Room Upstairs, every June at the Fort Canning
visiting one of their many and The Substation specialize Park. The Singapore Piano
locations across the island. in more offbeat acts. Festival also draws crowds.
Tickets, once purchased, are
not usually refundable or
exchangeable. For Indian cul-
tural shows, the Annalakshmi
Restaurant hands out free
tickets at the restaurant.
DISABLED ACCESS
Although most entertainment

venues are located in heritage
buildings or renovated ware-
houses, several of them have
added disabled access. In
newer venues, such as the
Esplanade, such facilities have
been provided. It is always Musicians at WOMAD, at Fort Canning Park
E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N S I N G A P O R E 253
FREE PERFORMANCES & a delightful event at Fort Gardens, while street

OPEN AIR SHOWS Canning Park. Classical music musicians often play by the
concerts, including perfor- Singapore River. Every
Free events are held regularly mances by the Singapore Sunday, the Chijmes Lawn
at Esplanade Theaters on Symphony Orchestra, are and Fountain Court hosts jazz
the Bay. A list of the frequently held at the Singapore Botanic and Latin music recitals.
changing performances,
including world music and
drama, is available on their
website (see Directory). Indian
classical music and dance
shows, such as Bharatnatyam
and Odissi, are organized at
different venues by the Temple
of Fine Arts, a non-profit mak-
ing arts organization. Tickets
for shows hosted by Temple of
Fine Arts are also available at
Annalakshmi Restaurant. The
Singapore Dance Theaters
Ballet under the Stars is The Singapore Symphony Orchestra in concert, Botanic Gardens
DIRECTORY
INFORMATION VENUES Singapore Indoor WOMAD
Stadium 35 A Duxton Road.
Juice Magazine Chijmes Hall 2 Stadium Walk. Map 4 C4.
Tel 6733-1111. 30 Victoria Street. Map Tel 6344-2660. Tell 6220-2676.
www.juiceonline.com 3 D5. Tel 6334-3801.
www.womadsingapore.
www.chijmes.com.sg The Substation
The Straits Times 45 Armenian Street. com
Tel 6319-5397. Cox Terrace at Fort Map 3 D5.
www.straitstimes.asia1. Canning Park FREE
Tel 6337-7535.
com.sg Fort Canning Road. Map PERFORMANCES &
2 C5. Tel 6332-1200. University Cultural OPEN AIR SHOWS
Think Magazine Center
www.nparks.gov.sg
Tel 9880-6520. 50 Kent Ridge Crescent. Chijmes Lawn and
www.think.cz DBS Arts Center Tel 6516-2492. Fountain Court
20 Merbau Road. Map www.nus.edu.sg 30 Victoria Street.
TICKETS 4 C2. Tel 6733-8166. Map 3 D5.
www.srt.com.sg Victoria Theater &
Tel 6336-1818.
Annalakshmi Concert Hall
Esplanade www.chijmes.com.sg
Restaurant 9 Empress Place.
133 New Bridge Road, Theaters on the Bay Map 5 D3. Tel 6338- Singapore Dance
B1-02 Chinatown Point. 1 Esplanade Drive, 8283. www.nac.gov.sg Theater
Tel 6339-9993. www. Marina Bay. Map 5 E2.
2nd Story,
annalakshmi.com.sg Tel 6828-8222. FESTIVALS Fort Canning Center,
www.esplanade.com
SISTIC Cox Terrace. Map 5 D1.
Buskers Festival
Tel 6348-5555. Jubilee Hall Tel 6338-0611.www.
www.singapore-buskers.
www.sistic.com.sg Raffles Hotel. singaporedancetheatre.
com
Several locations from Map 3 E5. Tel 6412- com
Raffles City; Victoria 1319. www.raffles.com Singapore Arts
Festival Singapore
Concert Hall Box Office. Kallang Theater Symphony
Map 5 D2. Tel 6345-
TicketCharge 1 Stadium Walk. Orchestra
8488. www.nac.gov.sg
Tel 6296-2929. Map 5 D2. Tel 6345- Victoria Concert Hall,
www.ticketcharge.com.sg 8488. www.nac.gov.sg Singapore 11 Empress Place.
Several locations from International Film Map 5 D3
The Room Upstairs
Tanglin Mall; Centerpoint. Festival Tel 6338-1230.
42 Waterloo Street.
www.filmfest.org.sg www.sso.org.sg
Map 3 D4.
DISABLED ACCESS Tel 6837- 0842. Singapore Piano Temple of
Festival Fine Arts
Access Singapore Shaw Foundation
www.pianofestival.
National Council of Symphony Stage 133 New Bridge Road,
com.sg
Social Service Botanic Gardens, B1-02 Chinatown Point.
150 Pandan Gardens. 1 Cluny Road. Starlight Cinemas Tel 6535-0509.
Tel 6899-1220. Map 1 D2. Tel 6471- www.starlightcinema. www.templeoffinearts.
www.dpa.org.sg/access 7361. www.sbg.org.sg com org/sg
Wayang (Chinese Opera) performance on an elaborate stage on Teochew street
WESTERN CLASSICAL of Indian classical dance and Film Society at the Alliance
MUSIC & DANCE music is presented by the Franais, or Goethe Institute.
Temple of Fine Arts (see p253), The British Council organizes
The Singapore Symphony as well as the Nrityalaya regular shows of critically
Orchestra (see p253) was Aesthetics Society. acclaimed movies. Local
founded in 1979 and performs cinemas popularity gained
regularly at its home base, the THEATER & MUSICALS momentum after the success
Esplanade, and the Victoria of the comedy Money No
Concert Hall. The concerts Singapores vibrant theater Enough in 1998. Today, films
often feature special guest scene ranges from runaway by young directors such as
conductors, composers, Broadway and West End hits Royston Tan and Kelvin
and soloists. The Singapore on international tour to local Tong draw large audiences.
Dance Theater (see p253), groups performing contem- Special midnight showings
the states foremost dance porary productions by local are also held.
company, presents classic playwrights. Well-known
and contemporary Western companies are the Action NIGHTLIFE
ballet, while the Odyssey Theater, Singapore Repertory
Dance Theater and Ecnad Theater, TheaterWorks, Toy Orchard Road is the mainstay
stage contemporary and Factory, and The Necessary of nightlife on the island,
fusion dance performances. Stage. While most pro- while some pubs, clubs, and
ductions are in English, bars on the riverside quays
CHINESE OPERA, MALAY albeit with an all-Asian cast, are more suited for cozy
& INDIAN MUSIC vernacular Chinese dialects, get-togethers, and are largely
as well as Malay and Tamil frequented by young profes-
Traditional Chinese opera, or theater, are represented sionals in the evening. Swing
wayang, is a cultural street too. Troupes such as The to the blues and rock and roll
event best seen during the Singapore Stage Club, set at Crazy Elephant and Harrys
Festival of the Hungry Ghosts up in 1945, with members Bar. Singapores first Irish pub
(see pp200201). The Chinese from around the world, that plays Irish music, Molly
Opera Institute and the perform pantomimes, Malones, is located by the
Chinese Theater Circle also especially at Christmas. riverside. Sanctuary Bar on
stage a two-hour opera every Orchard Road, Bar Sa Vanh
Friday and Saturday, complete CINEMA in Chinatown, and Sunset Bay
with explanations. The on Sentosa Island are a few of
Singapore Chinese Orchestra, Most of the films shown in the favorite venues. The wine
the islands only professional Singapore are in English, bars offer friendly service and
Chinese orchestra, plays with Chinese subtitles. Other
Indian and Malay music as language films have both
well as Chinese pieces. English and Chinese subtitles.
For traditional Malay Hollywood blockbusters and
culture, the Malay Village Indian films are extremely
has a program on weekends, popular and there are many
which includes the traditional multiplex cinemas to choose
Kudu Kepang dance. Other from, such as the Golden
features include the Orchestra Village and Shaw Beach Road
Melayu and the Malay opera, theaters. Art-house films in
Bangasawan, based on European languages are Local rock band playing at the
folktales. The rich repertoire screened by the Singapore Crazy Elephant
E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N S I N G A P O R E 255
intimate ambience. Most of Dance clubs are always a main dance floor and a
them are located in renovated packed and tend to play separate bar for chilling out.
shophouses. Though all are alternative music trance, Enter a futuristic world with
fairly popular, the ones that progressive trance, and trendy murals on Phutures
attract the most crowds are garage. Dbl O has one of walls and enjoy all sorts of
No. 5, the citys first wine bar the largest dance floors in hip music, hip-hop, and
which has a rustic feel to it Singapore and its resident DJs drum n bass at the club.
with unpolished wooden dominate the scene. For a The Ministry of Sound
floors and Persian carpets, mind-thumping dance night, establishment, famous for
Barcelona, and the busy Thumper is also one of the featuring electronic music,
Bisous. Karaoke rooms (also venues that top the list of has an avant-garde super-
known as KTV stations) are favorites. The trendy Zouk club at Clarke Quay.
hugely popular, and even complex houses Velvet The majority of these
the smallest pub will feature Underground and Phuture. clubs charge a cover price
a karaoke station. The Velvet Underground has between S$2030.
DIRECTORY
MUSIC & DANCE The Necessary Golden Village Crazy Elephant
Stage Marina Leisureplex, Raffles Clarke Quay, 3E River
Chinese Opera 278 Marine Parade Avenue. Map 5 F2. Valley Road.
Institute Road. Tell 6440-8115. Tel 1900 912-1234. Map 1 E4.
111 Middle Road. www.gv.com.sg Tel 6337-7859.
www.necessary.org
Map 3 D4. Tel 6339- One of several branches. www.crazyelephant.com
1292. ww.chineseopera- Singapore
institute.com.sg Repertory Theater Shaw Beach Road Dbl O
DBS Arts Center, Cineplex 0124 Robertson Walk,
Ecnad Shaw Tower, 11 Unity Street. Map
20 Merbau Road.
0405 182 Cecil Street. 100 Beach Road. 4 C2. Tel 6735-2008.
Map 4 C2.
Map 5 D4. Tel 6226- Map 3 F4.
Tel 6733-8166. Harrys Bar
6772. www.ecnad.org Tel 6738-0555.
www.srt.com.sg 28 Boat Quay. Map 5 D3.
Malay Village www.shaw.com.sg
The Singapore Tell 6538-3029.
39 Geylang Road. One of several branches.
Stage Club www.harrys-bar.com
Tel 6748-4700.
24 Whitchurch Road. Singapore Film Molly Malones
Nrityalaya Tel 6251-1350. Society 56 Circular Road.
Aesthetics Society www.stageclub.com 0301 Marina Leisureplex, Map 5 D3. Tel 6536-
Stamford Arts Center, 5A Raffles Avenue. 2029. www.molly-
155 Waterloo Street.
TheaterWorks Map 5 F2.
7213 Mohamed malone.com
Map 3 D4. Tel 6336- Tel 90-170-160.
Sultan Road. Map 2 B5. www.sfs.org.sg No. 5
6537. www.nas.org.sg
Tel 6737-7213. 5 Emerald Hill.
Odyssey Dance www.theatreworks.org.sg NIGHTLIFE Tel 6732-0818.
Theater
0404, 182 Cecil Street. Toy Factory Barcelona Sanctuary Bar
Map 5 D4. 15 A Smith Street. Map 0130 Robertson Walk, Wisma Atria,
Tel 6221-5516. 4 C4. Tel 6222-1526. 11 Unity Street. 435 Orchard Road. Map
www.odysseydance- www.toyfactory.org.sg Map 4 C2. 1 F2. Tel 6238-3473.
theatre.com Tel 6235-3456. Sparks
CINEMA www.uno-restaurant.
Singapore Chinese 150 Orchard Road. Map
Alliance Franais com.sg 1 F2. Tel 6735-6133.
Orchestra
7 Shenton Way, Singapore 1 Sarkies Road. Bar Sa Vanh Sunset Bay
Conference Hall. Map 2 A2. Tel 6737- 49 Club Street. Fort Siloso Beachwalk,
Map 5 D5. Tel 6440- 8422. www.alliance Map 4 C4. Sentosa Island.
3839. www.sco.org.sg francais.org.sg Tel 6323-0145. Tel 6275-0668.
British Council www.sunsetbay.com.sg
THEATER Bisous
30 Napier Road. 25 Church Street. Thumper
Action Theater Map 1 D2. Map 5 D3. 22 Scotts Road. Map 1 F2.
42 Waterloo Street. Tel 6473-1111. Tel 6226-5505. Tel 6735-0827. www.
Map 3 D4. Tel 6837- www.britishcouncil.org/sg www.bisous.com.sg thumper.com.sg
0842. www.action.org.sg
Goethe Institute China Jump Bar & Zouk, Velvet
Chinese Theater 0501,163 Penang Grille Underground, and
Circle Road, Winsland House II. Fountain Court, Chijmes, Phuture
5 Smith Street. Map 4 C4. Map 2 B4. 30 Victoria Street. 17 Jiak Kim Street.
Tel 6323-4862. Tel 6735-4555. Map 3 D4. Tel 6738-2988.
www.ctcopera.com.sg www.goethe.de/ins/sg Tel 6338-9388. www.zoukclub.com.sg
OUTDOOR ACTIV
IVITIES IN SINGAPORE
S ingapore is not only a place for
shopping and dining, but also for
a range of exciting outdoor activi-
ties. Being a tropical island, all the
favorite watersports such as diving, sail-
Coast Park, and Sentosa. Ample cycling
trails are provided around the outer
reaches of the island and within its beau-
tiful nature reserves. Golf and fitness
activities are widely enjoyed here. Tennis
ing, water-skiing, and wakeboarding are is also a popular sport but can be stren-
available throughout the year. The most uous and its best to play early in the
popular spots for these are the Kallang day. The tropical sun can be strong, so
River located to the east of the city, East adequate protection is required.
SAILING AND
WINDSURFING
Most sailing and windsurfing

facilities are located on the
east coast of the island.
Among these are the Pasta
Fresca Seasports Center,
National Sailing Center,
Keppel Marina, Raffles
Marina, Republic of Singapore
Yacht Club, SAFRA Seasports
Center, and Changi Sailing
Golf driving range at East Coast Park Club, which offer various
marine activities, including
GOLF equipment and organize dive sail boat charters (permits
trips. These excursions range may be required), windsurf
Singapore has a number of from a days outing to explore boards for hire, and boat
beautifully kept golf courses. local Singapore waters to berthing docks. Some hold
Visitors are permitted to play longer dive tours and live- large regattas and many con-
at most clubs, but only on aboard trips that cover pop- duct training courses. Call or
weekdays. However, the ular dive spots off Malaysias check websites for details.
Seletar Country Club is open east coast, Thailand, or
to non-members on the week- Indonesias Riau Archipelago. ADVENTURE SPORTS
ends. The other popular golf CLUBS
clubs include Laguna National WAT
A ER-SKIING AND
Golf & Country Club, Sentosa WAKEBOARDING Singapore Adventurers Club
Golf Club, and the Raffles organizes a range of exciting
Country Club where there Several individual operators activities such as trekking,
is a spectacular view of the rent out equipment and offer cycling tours, canoeing, and
South China Sea. professional instruction. The sailing. Most of its activities
facilities of the Cowabunga are open to all, with the
DIVING Ski Center are among the exception of a few members-
best in Singapore. William only events. Intensive courses
Singapore is one of the most Water Sports Center offers in kayaking, rock climbing,
economical places in the waterskiing every day and and abseiling are offered all
world for diving lessons. PADI conducts all-day wake- year round by Outward Bound
(Professional Association of boarding lessons every Singapore located at Pulau
Diving Instructors) courses for Tuesday and Thursday. Ubin and East Coast Park.
beginners as well as advanced
divers are available. There are
a number of reputable dive
schools to choose from, inclu-
ding the Big Bubble Center,
Blue Wave Sports, Waikiki
Dive Center, Scuba Corner,
Scuba Connection, Friendly
Waters Seasports Services,
Sentosa Water Sports Center,
and Marsden Brothers which
has the only custom-made
dive boat in Singapore.
Besides offering dive lessons,
most schools also rent out Diving, a popular activity in SIngapore
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S I N S I N G A P O R E 257
NATUR
A E WAT
A CH seashore of the East Coast
Park, bikes can be rented at
Nature Society (Singapore) the Sunsport Center or SDK
organizes bird-watching trips Recreation. The varied land-
twice each month to various scape of the tracks at the Bukit
locations. Call or check its Timah Nature Reserve (see
website for more details. In p238) offers a more challen-
addition, spotting the diverse ging experience, but you will
species of animals, birds, and need to bring your own bike.
plants protected within Pulau Ubin (see p243) off the
Singapores stunning nature northeastern coast is a favor- A game in progress at Singapore
reserves can be a truly ite cycling destination. With Tennis Center
T
rewarding experience. its maze of trails, it is partic-
ularly good for mountain as the Kallang Squash and
CYCLING biking. Bikes can be hired Tennis Center, and Farrer Park
T
on the island near the dock Tennis Court. The Singapore
T
Cycling is an excellent way to or from Changi Village. Tennis Center offers one-on-
T
explore the attractions that lie one coaching, and you can
outside Singapores city limits. TENNIS put your name on a partner
Hiring a bike on Sentosa is list and hire a court. An
a good alternative to the Tennis courts can be booked Instant Tennis course for
islands monorail system. every day between 7am and beginners is available at a
For a leisurely ride along the 10pm at various centers, such very reasonable fee.
DIRECTORY
GOLF Scuba Connection Keppel Marina Singapore
Blk 261, Waterloo Street. Lot 1016 and 2003, Adventurers Club
Laguna National Map 3 D4. Tel 6337- Bukit Chermin Road. 74B Lorong 27, Geylang.
Golf & Country Club 0700. www. Tel 6270-6665. Tel 6749-0557.
11 Laguna Golf Green. www.keppelmarina.com www.sac.org
scubaconnection.com
Tel 6542-6888.
Scuba Corner National Sailing
Raffles Country Club NATUR
A E WAT
A CH
Blk 809 French Road. Map Center
450 Jalan Ahmad Ibrahim. 1500 East Coast Parkway.
3 F3. Tel 6338-6563. Nature Society
Tel 6861-6888. Map 5 F4. Tel 6444-
www. scubacorner. 02-05 The Sunflower,
Seletar Country 4555. www.sailing.org.sg 510 Geylang Road.
com.sg
Club Pasta Fresca Tel 6741-2036.
101 Seletar Club Road,
Sentosa Water www.nss.org.sg
Seasports Center
Seletar Airbase. Sports Center
1212 East Coast Parkway.
Tel 6481-4812. 1 Garden Avenue, Sentosa. CYCLING
Map 5 F4.
Sentosa Golf Club Waikiki Dive Center Tel 6449-5118. SDK Recreation
27 Bukit Manis Road. 298 Beach Road. Map 3 1000 East Coast Parkway.
Raffles Marina
Tel 6275-0022. F4. Tel 6291-1290. 10 Tuas West Drive. Map 5 F4.
www.waikikidive.com Tel 6861-8000. www. Tel 6445-2969.
DIVING rafflesmarina.com.sg
WAT
A ER-SKIING & Sunsport Center
Big Bubble Center WAKEBOARDING Republic of East Coast Parkway.
57 Cantonment Road. Singapore Yacht Map 5 F4.
Map 4 B4. Tel 6222- Cowabunga Ski Club Tel 6440-9827.
6862. www.bigbubble. Center 52 West Coast Ferry Road.
com 10 Stadium Lane. Tel 6768-9288. www. TENNIS
Tel 6344-8813. rsyc.org.sg
Blue Wave Sports Farrer Park Tennis
T
www.extreme.com.sg
0229 Riverside Point, Court
SAFRA Seasports
30 Merchant Road. William Water Center
Rutland Road.
Map 4 C3. Sports Center Tel 6299-4166.
10 Changi Coast Walk.
Tel 6557-2702. 60 Jalan Mempurong. Tel 6546-5880. Kallang Squash &
Friendly Waters Tel 6257-5859. Tennis Center
T
Seasports Services ADVENTURE Stadium Road.
01-36 The Riverwalk,
SAILING AND SPORTS CLUBS Tell 6348-1291.
20 Upper Circular Road. WINDSURFING
Outward Bound Singapore Tennis
T
Tel 6557-0016.
Changi Sailing Club Singapore Center
Marsden Brothers 32 Netheravon Road. 9 Stadium Link, Pulau 1020 East Coast Parkway.
113 Holland Road. Tel 6545-2876. Ubin. Tel 6545-9008. Map 5 F4.
Tel 6475-0050. www.csc.org.sg www.obs.pa.gov.sg Tel 6442-5966.
SINGAPORE STREET FINDER

T he key map below shows the
area of Singapore covered in
this Street Finder. Map refer-
ences given for sights, shops, and
entertainment venues described in
index of street names and places of
interest shown on the maps follows
on pages 2647. The first figure in the
map reference indicates which Street
Finder map to turn to, and the letter
the Singapore section of this guide and the number which follow refer to
refer to the maps on the following the grid on the map. The key, below,
pages. Map references are also given indicates the scale of the maps and
for Singapore hotels (see pp28691) other features marked on them,
and restaurants (see pp30813). Major
j includingg post
p offices and tourist
sights
g are also marked. A complete information centers.
0 meters 750

0 yards 750
,ITTLE)NDIA
, LEE DIAIA
A
AND
A N
/RCHARD2OAD
/RCH
C A D2O
D 2O D
D2

4H
4HE#OLONIAL#OR
4HE
HE #OLONIAL#ORE
ONIAL#OR
#OR
OR
OR
AND
ND
#HINATOWN
# HINAT
NAT N
KEY
Major sight P ki
Parking Railroad
R il d
Place of interest Police station Expressway
Other buildings Tourist information Pedestrian bridge
T MRT station Indian temple
Railroad station Church

Scale of map pages
# Bus station Buddhist temple
0 meters 250
Post office Mosque
0 yards 250
Hospital Synagogue
% & '
4 5
& 7
/
' & /
"
4
&3
$-6/:
44
03"
"%
/)
3 0 "
*.
0
%
*--
3
/(& (30
30
$3&
-*"/&
'&3
"%
/)
4$&/5
* --
"%
$- 3HANGRI ,A
7&
04
30
% 3 ":
& 3INGAPORE
INGAPORE
0/ 30
"%
3
30
30 )*--
0"
"
*5

"%
%
$ 0 55
.
%
/
&3
'&3
-
34
1"
%&
4*/("103&
3,
"3
"%
#05"/*$
"/
-" % %3
03"/(
%: 30 ":
("3%&/4 )*-- $0
.
55%
0
3
*7&
3&
&
(3 1" 7&
07 3, %3*
$-6
&
30
"
--
%
/
)*
/"
:
44

0''*$
*.
30"%
4* (OTEL 2OY
2OYAL
30
$-
/ 4&3" 30"% ": #ROWNE
RO
." 0REMIER
0
."
.
"%
5" 03
0
0LAZA
&
3*/( 'LEN
LENEAGLES
LEN EA /RCHARD
HA &
*/
$- 30
":
'LENEAGL
GLEES -EDICAL#ENTER
-ED CAL R 0ARADE
0
0ARAD
ARA "%
&
"5 %3 .0
(
03
& 3 (OSPITTA
(OSPITAAL !.!(OTEL (OTEL
(OTE *7& 3&
0"% 4ANGLIN
ANGLIN
4XBO 3INGAPORE
R
.
/
-BLF /" " 3HOPPING

ING
":
1* 4 4 (
(ILTON
&3 * . #ENT
NTTERR ))NTE
)N
NTERNAT
N NATIONAL
$-
5"/(-*/ &ORUM
RUMM
30 554
30 ) %
"%
(0-' "%
* - " 'ALLERIA
ALLE
ERIA 03
0
45
-
30 % $)
4$
$0634& .

30"% "35*/4 %3 " "

%&/ / 0
.*/ -*
3 AST 3 % 3
&AR%AST
&
&AR%A
AR%A
53%MBASSY /
(
&/ 3HOPPING
OPP
PIN 0"
50
!USTRALIAN(
N(IGH
(IGH 5" % %
" #ENTER
NTERR
4$ -ARRIOTTTTT
.
#OMM
MMISSION
MISSION "OULE
EV
VARDD
6 &OUR
-*
$ (OTEL
TELL % (OTEL
TEL
/
30" 3 3EASONS
40
7" 7HEELOCK
7H HEEL
%
8" " % & /

% 4OURISM
RISM -& 0SDIBSE
/
0L
0LAC
0LACE
0L
$"
&3800 6
-,
4) #OUR
#OURT 0 T
.
3,
"RITISH(IGH
G
GH 03
4$
# '063
1
$)
$6
30
30
#OMMISSION
ION
O
1"
"%
4 & " 4 0 / 4 1" 3 , "3
"
%
"%
%
#0
"
0
% 6
-*
3
3
" -&
6-
$) 7"
/
03 3%
/(
1
56 "*
0
/
-* / "
34
( % -"
-,
/
5" "
"
"
5&
+
8
5" / 3" ,
-* .&
1"
3
(
/
( &
*-
-* / 4& 30 ,
/ 5" 3 * /
( 3 " / (
0/& 5 -&/(
-* $) *7
,0
"- ,
/( "/( 0,
1
3&&
3
*& 3
/(
)*
$) "
5" 4"
"
"
-- % 1"
8
/
-&
3 5&
"
54
+"-" ,& "

-
/
8
0
34
35
0/
)
"7
&
3*%-&: & /6 + "

30
& - " /
1"3, 0 3 5 )
"%
8 3 0 3
30" 035)
4 0
" % 3 0 " %
"

5
"%
%
%
"
548
%GYPTIAN
AN &
)
30
$)"
$) %MBASSYY /(
$
( 3 "
"5
7
7ISMA
*3
-INISTRYOF%DUCATION
I OF UC N
48
)NDONESIA
N
)005,"*.30
8&
(IGH#OMMISSION 4EACHERSg.ETWORK
4 E Sg
%
03
"
OF"RUNEI 0
(-*/
-- #"/
-&
5)
3
$ARUSSALAM 1"
0
3,
/
5&
5"/
*&
"
"3,
(
4
)
, 3
1
)0
*-
&$) 0 1
0"
-
,": 10) 3
+"-"/
#*4
"%
3,
/"
%
5)" 4IMES
.
1"
/
65
(OUSE

6/5
3
4)
*"
0
0
,
"/
"
0"
$)
%
3"
*.
"
()
0
0
%
%
&
4&
* 4
.
7 0
5
"*
+ & 3
/(
30
.
/(
&
"%
,&-
4& ,
#-
"%
30 , * .8 " -
30
;*0
-ALAYSIAN(IGH
SIAN(
(IGH
-0 $
+&
$"
&:
"%
37
3 0 #OMMISSION
MISS "%
/
,
0*4
--
" % 30
+& 370*4 %
" 7"
-"/& 3INGAPO
A RE3CHOOL

30"
0
3 & 3
FORTHE$EAF
H -5
30
$)"3-&4
426 0 *7
%
&
) 3
"%
13*/$
"
3&
;*0/$-
"MFYBOES
1 3 * / $ & $
) " 3 - & 4 $ "MFYBO
ESB
%&-
B 3 & 4 $ & / 5
$BO BM
$BOBM
5"
L
30
1 3 * / $ &
1 ) * - * 1
" 7 & / 6 &
"%
30"%
" - & 9 " / % 3 "

3

0
) & /% &3 4 0/
" %
30"%
( " / ( & 4 " 7 & / 6 &

/ * - & 3 0 " %
3FEIJMM )
"%
*/%64
7*,*/( "
7
T &-
0$ 30"%
$3 &
30
, $,
4 &/5 -0
7&
30 )"
5 * 0 / ( "%
5"
# " ) 3 6 3 0 " %
"%
%&-

30
+ " -"/ #6,*5

)0
3&%)*--
3
48
0/
30"%
-0 8 &
&& #6,*5
5
0 +"-"/
*
)0
/ 48&&
34
4& ( 4IONG"AHRU
H
0
#" 0LAZA
A
3&
$-
%&
)3
% ) * - - $ -0
6 3 5
5JPOH#BI
ISV
0"
&/
#005*0/(30"%
-
%
*-
T
)
)
30"%
%
#")36
)
#6 , *5
5*0/(
3&
3&%
. &3 "
7 *& 8
$ - 0) * - -
% & '
4&
4&
-"/ +- /
3:

3%
" $)
"/$&
&
# &/"
$
5)
*& 0 /07&3

5
5"
4
30
/PWFOB
#6,*5
/
5 T
40
50$
6/
.0
,
/
. 4AN 4OCK
"%
0
4&/
"4 6 3ENG(OSPITAL
(0-
0
*. 6 -
(
-" 0/5 3 .&
%
/(
#"
/& */ 3
30"
("-
%)*-- "7
* 4
(0-%
3,
&
)
30
3*4& *--
&3
(&/ 5-
"%
-"/&
%
30"
,&3
&
"%
% 0
3 0 " .06-.&*/
&
3
- &
3
#"3
0
30 5 " 'OLDHI
' HIL
HI
ILL 4#6
3:
" %
/
% '
'OLDHILL
L #ENT &8
/
0 # TER 4)3
"%
0
" %
&
3 0LA
0LAZA
0L
/&85
5)
:
(
% 3
& ,) 5*
6 / +"
3 0
$ *" +-
/ / %
0.
" /( 0"
#6 & $) 5 ED
5NITED
ED & 9 3
" %
:
(6 &44
,*5 " "/ 3
3QUA
3Q RREE
3
- &
"7
40/
( * - 4 5 &
5* / (OTEL
$ ,
% %
0
" . 2OYAL
OYAL "
3 " 0
"%
46 3 3 &
# 6
- ) 3 3
/5
&: 3 +-/
30
0"%
"% *
:
3" ."
0 :4)
&4$&
,03
"
&7
30
0 %
48
" &- #
-.
0"%
3 0 :/ %&3 3
&4
3
30"%
"%
#" % 3
13
$3
&" 0"
0
&9
3
#
45
3
%
"
-,
/3
*-
"
.
03"-
-
$
P
(
0
%
/".
-
"
0
D
3"
% 3
$0-
I
3'
" -
/5
"
% , 30
P
% *
/
" 46 '' 0-
$&
4
30
0
S
8&&
0
30 "% -
-&

-*/
4
&
&
/
$
*&
(
3 - *4
8
3, * %
B
800%
3 0 " %
&
0% 3
O
4"
/
0
- & & #
$"
,
B
)
, & / (
.
(
" 30"%
*
&
M
"
" 7 $
/
+ %
-
0/( "
-
,".1
(
30
3%
-
3HERATON
ON 4OWERS , &
&
0
"
5'
3IN
3INGAPORE )"
3
&3
/
/F
/FXUPO -* .
"%
'" 0
)
T 9 1 "
30
30 0
-
*- "% %
) %
&3
0% " .0
/
(OTEL!SIA
A
01
0 0 .EWTON#I
TON RCUS /,
(
8 3 4 )
5*
)0
% (AWKER#ENT
ER# TER *- -
0 5 &
.
+"
0 4 33
5 %NVIRONMENT "$ ")
$-&.
(
5 &
7"
$
0 "
"UILDING "%
30 ,".10/(
4 30 % "%
.0/
&/$
" +"7"1"3,
/: 0
30
)0 5
3 ++
+ 7OMENS
N
&"6
, 4
5
% "/
% #HILDRENS
#HILDRENS
#HILDRENS

45&
"
"%
8*/ (OSPITAL
(OSPITAL
"7
0
1&
$"
) *- -
$
3
'OODWOOD
%
,
%3
*3
)"
"
&/6
": 0
0ARK(OTEL :
%3 $0 5 0
/)
*7& 5 30 3 "OON3IEW
W
30"
"%
"UILDING
*--
& /
) &ORMER
MER
(
54
+ANDANG+ERBAU
+A
ANDA
DAN
D
DAA
%
"
0 35
$"*3/ / (OSPITAL
05
) &
30
* 7
*3/)*-- " 5
)
--
*.
"%
4$
%LIZABETH $*
$"
$
3$
(OTEL "
3*4&
&&AR%AST )STANA
)
-&
0RESIDEN
0 TS2ESIDENCE
5
0LAZA
&%
"OON3IEW
3IE
"UILDING
ILD
LDING
*.
"
'RA
'RAND(YATT
'RA */
#
)
.
2EGENCY
2 E "
6
3I
3INGAPO R
RE -T%LIZABET
%LIZ TH $
,
3 ( )
3COTT
COTTS
OTTS
TTS (OSPITAL
SPITAL $-& &
$*3 /
*;"#&5)
;
3HOPPING
3HOPPIN G +-/+*/5" / *-- *&
&-*;
*3/)
#ENTE
#ENTER "
-*/ #&5) $"
/6
3 0
, .0
#+
#+ +-/ -"%" 6/
5.
/5 &-
165&) .06/5&.*-: 5

" %
4ANGNG &.
"%
&
* -:
(
1"3,
4"6/%&34 30"%
+-/ , ":6 6
30"%
,UCKY
06
30
11
3
.
."/*4
%
0 0L 0LA
0LAZA 4HE
4HE
HE &3
$"
.
3 4ONG
4ONG
4ONNG 3/ 8
$ 0ARAGON
0ARAGOON
*
) "UILDING
"
"UILILDIN
LDIN
LDING
INGG ) *-
" ,
*&
*--
3T
T-ARGARETS
-ARG
3%
3 4 HE 8 3
7ISM
SM !TR
SMA TRIA
TR IA %
)*--
*- 0
0ROMENA
0 ROM
OMEN
MENADE
MENAD 3
3CHOOL

"
'0
#ROWN
RO )6
--& 3RI4EMASEK , %
3
30"%
*&
0RIN
0RINCE
NCE
%&
0 5 3
"
$
" 0" 4 3
% (O
(OTEL % #EN
# NT
NTERPOIN
OINT 7& 0
#*
/" 1 0
$"
0
-%
) "
"%
3
()
7&
*" %
$
(EEREN
(EE
EE
&.&3"
/"
)
& 3 0
.GEE!NN 30
"
()
"UILDING
"UI
UILDING
I 3
3
#ITY " 0
%
3
%
0
" %

0
1" (
#UPP
UPPAGE
UPP PA
3
"%
5
.0
$
"%
0ERANAKAN
AN "%
/,
0LAZ
AZZA
A
)
$61
0LAZA *4
/
-ERITUS
- ERITUS
"
0LACE
CE

6/
-*
30
5/,
/,, 30
3
-ANDARININ 3INGAPURA "%

%
"UILDING
DI (OTEL
OTEL
TEL
%
,3"
5
/RCHARD
RRCHA
CH
CHA
#
."5
)
" 0HOENIX
OENIX
0
) - 4
0OINTT /RCHA
RRCHARD
ARDD
D
(
-& 3$ 40. "/& 0

6
0 3
7 &34 0LAZA
LAZA
ZA ,E-ERIDIEN
#6
4P
4PNF FU T
4PNFSTFU ,E-ERIDIEN3INGAPO
,E-ERIDIEN3 3IN A RE
/&
&5
1)*
" 3PECIALISTS
TS
3% 3HOPPING#ENTER
3HOPPING
3HOPP G#EN
- "
*/
30"% 3HOPPING#ENTER
3HOPP ING# #ATHY
Y
"
".
&%
"% )"
/% "UILDING
& 30
ORCHARD
D ROAD 1 & / " /
%)
:3
(3"/( & 9 &
0"
%
0-
$ - & .& / $ & " 6 "7 & / 6 &
5 & 3 (
,*3 ,
-AC$ONALD
- ONALD
LD
%&7
3 0 " 3 *45"/" 03
% $)
#OM TER
#OMCENT (OUSEOF4AN 0 "
(O 1"3,
"3
% (
(OUSE
0/
)NDIAN(IGH 9EO
9EOK.E E % 30
30"%
"%
#OMMISSION
4)*
0
%6
#-
*/ 1&/ T
"/
3&
3
%
0" ( %IP
%IPCZ(IBVU
-&
"
/ ( - " /&
%
3%&/
3
ALL 0 " %
30
0ARK-ALL
--
"%
4"
3
*/5 --
"%
)*
5)0.
:
0 33INGAPORE
30
30"%
3*
("
:% * /(
&
NCIL $"//
*/
#OUNCIL
#
"4
(30 "--&:
1&/"
4&
&:
:%
&:
-&0/*&
30"% OF3OCIAL
OF3OCIAL
AL $ " / / * / ( 8
4
7&
8"
- (A
(AW0A
A 0AR
&/
*-
09 $
- -0
"
37
3ERV
3ERVICES -,
09-
3%
,
'LASSS4OW
SS 4OWER 35
"
-,
1&3
3*7&
'0
/
("
$*
-,
.#*"
7"
/
-
*/
"
30"%
3 * 7 & 3 !!#ENTERR
8
7 " - - &
+-/ 36
: 3 0 7 "
$0
" % 3 -
+- / ,6-"
&:
3*4&
3 * 7 & -
9
-
09
& :
04&
5&3
#HETTIAR
%
,*. :
'035 3
0"
4 MPL
4EMPL
MPLE
LE "
$-
$
, 3
&
:
$"//*/(
-&
"
5" /
3*7&3 7"-
0
1"3,
30 &%
"%
0
3
"
"/ .
" 50
%
-5 "
% 8 /
30 "5 (
46 0)
"% 5 3INGAP
NGA
APOORE
.
" # $ 0HILATELIC-USE
0HILATELI -USEU
UM
."/%" 4 VO
8 I B N QH F J
% ":
& 5
0
8
/
' 8
PB
)".1
0"
4 8 &
-":30
3 &4 3 8
&4
& 91
5
"- 3
"%
0
53
"
/ "
$&
"
.ATIONAL3KIN
.A N %
0
0
#EN
#ENTER #ENTRAL3IKH
# TRAL T #PPO,FOH
3
4EM LE
4EMPL
+WONG7AI
7A KALLANGG
* 3
0"% # 3HIU(OSPITAL
IT
3 "
AT
BASIN ESTATE
"
-&
/
45
/
2ANGOON *&
%
3
0
3 #
3ECONDARY
.
"
"
0
&3
0
0
3
3CHOOL
0
3
/
(6
0 /
(
3
"
*
% ,
30
/
0
&
%
"%
"
/
"
% (
3

%
"
3
0
0
"
&
3

3 %
0
0
&
8
&
)
" %
3
5 "
0
0
&
.
30
4
"
%
&/ 3 %
4
/
/
0
"
&
3
0
%
"
0
"%
%
+*
1
%
4*/
+00 " /
'0 %
.
3
"
/
" 7& , NG3A
,EONG3AN
3 -&
3
9 0
&
.
(
0 /6
&
0
0 3
,
3 3EE
EE4EMPL
4E LE #"
6
#
"
&
"7
3INGAPORE)NDIAN
3IN ND
DIAN
A )
%
3
/ ,"
&/
5 ) &
)
&INE!RTS3OCIETY
CIETY
TYY
-
& 4 --
0
6&
4 3 "/
"
"
3 4 6
53
4
/ (
#
0 & 0
5"
6 % 4 $ #
&

30 4 &
3-*()
"

& &
%
5 $ 45 5

5
%
3
"
" 3 06 3 % :
(
0
0
3
&
%
(
" "% &&

5
/
-0 3 0
3 % "
3
0 0 Sri
ri Srinivasa
Srin
r
6 "
"
4
3
3%
$& %
" %MINENT
% I
Perumal
Peruumal Temple
0
-
45
5
1& 30
8
-
0LAZA
&
5 1 ,
4 " 3
3
3
36 "
4& "
"
&
&
&
%
& 5 --
&

/
3 30
&
3/ % " *
"
.%
,
%
0 "
&

"%
0
." 0"
LITTLE INDIA
LITT
63
/
"
% /
3
(
5

45
3
3& 4
# &
)

6" &3
$
'B
'BSSFSQBSL
BSL
3
42 " /%
'0
3
0
0 "
'"33&3 T "%
"
'-
" 7
/
0 &/
# 30
%
%
/&8 +ALLANG"AHRU
+A
%
3
6
-"
/
"
#
3 "%
#
#OMPLEX
6&
50
0
*3 803-%
.
3ERANGOON
3ERANGO
NGO *-
%
3
$ " "%
3650"%
"
-"/
30 ) .
0LAZA
0LAZA
LAZA 1"3, )"
)
0
%
1"3,
+
3
3
%
-" #&
,
/
3
0 /
"
*5
-"
,* / 35 " 0 7"
%
$
& 4 .EW0ARK
.
.EW0A $"
3
3
/
)
5"
&
/
&
-
(OTEL
(O
%
5
#
3 &
0
'*&-%4
"
"% /
*5
3" 3 *ALAN
.
0
%
"
-USTAFA
-UST
STAFA
FA
30 %6
"
3
"
7
$& 3
6
%
)
) "ESAR
"ESAR
/
0
0
30
" #ENTER
#E
# TER
&
38
-" $0
)
"
&
4" %
3
7&
. &
% 3TADIUM
3T
"
/
5
1 / 6 4: .
30
6
4&
3
4) & 34 &% -
%
5:
4
/
0
& % &0
3
*AL
*ALA
ALAN
3
*3
&
&4 " "
&3
/
/
6
0
& -8 7 )
, (
"%
0
"ESA
"ESAR0LAZA
AR0LAZA &/
"
&3 3
"
#" 30 *3
$
3 % 1
%
30
4
/&
0 #0 8 0
&
/
)*
4 5 3 & & 5
0 &-
%
" " %
&
3
-"
% /% -" - % "
$
0
"
0
3
3
00 /& " 0
"
(
0
30
%&
% 3
3
%
3 .
0
&
"/
0" &
"
"/
"
(
30 0
6
3
/03
(
%
,-
3 *4 3 "% % *$
(
$)
&
"
0"% --

*/
/
4:
)
+&
4
&% 30
,
3RRI6EERAMAKALIAMMAN
3RI 6EERAMAK
6EE MMAAN 7&&3
$
3"
&
"4".
/
3
" "
&
: %
10
4EM LE
4EMPL
#
)* -8
'3
30 /
30 %0 -BWFOEFS
-BWFO
OEFS
4&
"% *
"
-JU
-JUUMF*OEJB
OEJB

/
"% 0 ,& 30
$6''30
,
-"
T
"
"% "
3 T $) -" / 5 %
-
* /& "/ )MMIGRATION

G ATION
0 30 55:
+"
" 4EKKA 61
1&3 61
"%
"UILDIN
"UILDING
UI DI
UI DI G S
%
WF
#ENTER
#ENTER %6 %*$ 1& ,&
,4
3 /- 3 -"
3PD
IPS 3J
01 0 8 /
0 5 /3 &- 5" %NG
G
G
& %
" 3
&
45
0"
%
30 / 3 #HEONG
HEONG
HE
E
% "%
"%
5 0
,ITTLE)ND
ITTLE)NDIA
DIA 4 3& "% % 4OWE
OWE
WER
WEER
&5 3 0 "
30
& -
+
3 !RCADE
RC -
*7 8
&- "
"
0 $ %
"
/
+"
% 46 30
%
-
,
"
-"
"
"
3"
3 /( % 0
$
"
0" 7*
/
3
1&
"%
%
3 &* %
*
3 0 "
$5
30
/
3
3ELEGIE 0 $ )
&
3P "
0
,6
30
( 5
0
03 I P S $ B O % #
3*
D /

& &
"
#0
(OU
(OUSE 46
)
& (
-"

3 0 " %
$ B "/" M $ 3
3
5 * %
/&
-3 0
ARA
A
ARAB
ARR AB 3 4
"
4&-&(*&
" 3 3ULTAN
5
-# 0
3
6
&
#
"% *"
&
"
1 & 0LAZA
STREET
TREE
3
3 3
$ 03 * /
-
#
5 )STANA
NA
5
5 )
4
4
& /
(AJJAH
0
63 4&1
5
5 +AMPONG
PONG

3
5
5 2OCH
CHOR
CH
& &
&ATIMAH-OSQUE
5
"
*$
*7
& 'OLDEN
'OLD
LDEN 'L
'LAM
3
5 ENTER 0
#ENTER
0
0
SSultan
Sult
tan
5
/
/
1 ,ANDMAR
,ANDMA ARK
4)
&
)
&
* 3 (O
(OTEL
(OT Mosque
M os ue
3
'OLDEN-
'OL EN-ILE
4
5
-ID
-IDDLE
- D
DD
5
&U,U3
&U,U3HOU
5
4
&
"%
4OWER
3
2OOAD
D #OMP
#OMPLEX 3

&
"
&
30
-#
(OSPITAL
(OSP TAL +WAN)M
WAN
A M "LAN
"LANCO 0
&
3
&3
"
5
:
3
#
#OURT
5
4HEE
1
4ONG
4ONG(OOD
NG(OO $)
5
%
&
&&5
"
4
4
3RI+RIS
3RI+ ISH
ISHN
HNA
NAN #H 4EMPL
#HE EMPL
PLE &" #ONCOU
ONCOURSE

*/
$
45
8

4EM
4
4E
EMPLLE #
)
3
3&
5
)
1
453
&
0LA
LAZA(
AZA
A(OTEL
0

&5
. #VHJ
HJT
&
*(
/
*%
5
T "UG
&
)
4
33
5& "$& % UGIS
UGI
UG
& / 6 &
-
- #6 *UN
UNCTION
UN
NCTI
CTION
--
0
&
1
45 (*4
0
4&
$0
3 .
$
0
3
0
"-
*/
*
/
-0
"
0
":
" 7
%
/
&
13
45
3
"
5" /
-"
&
%
&
)NTE
NTEERC
RCON
CCO
ONTINENTA
ON
NTINEEENT
NTA
NTAL
#
&
%
5
/ 45
#3"4 -*
"
3
"
(OTEL
2 3
"

5
* $
8
/
0
#"4")
4
6 &&
(
5

4
& 5
3
&
&
1"3, &"
/
# -
#
&
&
3INGAPORE ) 4 5
3
&
3
&
5
6
" 3INGAPORE
3INGAPO
3INGAPORE &
&INANCE
4
1 6
2
4 #
:
*%
"

!RT-USEUM
!
!RT-USE
!RT-USEU
RT-USEUM */ (OU
(OUSE
"
*"
4
3
3 &
5 16
#
3
.A
ATIONAL-USEUM
AL- UM 37
8
"
0
$" *4
OF33INGAPORE
NGAP
)
5
4
)
4 53 3&
*$
45 )*/
5
# 4& &&
3
")
3
*(
#A
#ATHEDRALOFTH
# FTHE
HE
7
" 5
#ARLTON
N
16
%
4
0
'OOD3HEPH
EPHERD
HER 4 3HAW
"3
53
)
(OTEL
/
"
)
#-
&& 4OWERS
R

&7
$
) 5
.AATIONAL Raffles
*$ #06
6-
"
,IBRARYY
,IBRA
--
Hotell 3UNTEC
#0
&
#HIJM
IJMES
IJMES
#ITY-ALLL
#ITY
#
$0
0ERANAKA
AKAN
AK 3 &.#/
3! 5&
-USEUM
USEU 45 3 .
-
#LUB "4
&7"3%
0
,
" 3IN
3INGAPO
INGAPORE
INGAPO RE
RE &,
4&
. "
/*
5
'0 %
/4
."
2AFFLES#IT
A TY ) TERNATIONALL
)NTE #ONRAD)NTL
# D #ENTEN
#ENTENNIAL
/*"
3% #ONVENTION
#O #EN N
#ENTENNIAL 4OWE
4O
OWER
5&
.&
3 %XHIBITION#ENTE
%XHIBITION#ENTE
%X
XHIBITION#ENT
X TER
TE
"7&/6
8"3
"3
!RMENIAN
MEN 0 .&.03*"- -ILLENIA
"
#H
HURC
RCH
RC % % 1"3,
& 7ALLK '
&
(OTEL ,E ERID
,E-ERIDIEN
,E-E
" # $
-" )".
0HOENIX
OENIXIX 3INGAPO
3INGAPORE
APORE 0LAZ
AZ
AZA
/&
O R C H
& 9 &A R D R O A D& / " / ( 33HOPPING#ENTER
3HO PING
ING#ENTER 33INGAPURA
IN APURA )"/
%
% :
( 3 " / ( & 3 0 " %
0-
3 03
0
$ - & . & /$ & " 6 "7 & / 6 &

5 & 3 $)
3 0 " % " "3
% %
%&7
*45"/" 3 0
)NDIAN(IGH #OM TER
#OMCENT (OUSEOF4AN
(OUSEO
" %
0/
#OMMISSION 1"3,
30 " %
5*7&35 %6 9EOK. E
9EOK.E 1&/ %IPCZ
0/
(IBVU T
4)*
-"/&
-" #- "/
%
*/ (3
0
30
"
0"
9-
3&
"% %
&
0
3%&/
-&
/"/( -"/
&:
3
--
4" 0ARK-ALLLL
30
" %
0
*/5
:
)*
5)0. 33INGAPOREE
/
--
"%
3*4
("
&
0 5
NCIL ' 0 3
*&
3 0
*/
:% #OUNCIL
#
"4
(30 "--&
-& 0/ *&
&:
&

(
(AW0AR
0AR
:%
OF3OCIAL
AL$"//*/(
-
30"%
7&
-
" -,
8"
4
*-
1&
09
)
*38 , 3
'LAS
ASS4OW
4 WERR
&/
- -0
- & :
3ERV
3ERVICES
#"
& 3 7
*-
3%
-,
/
&- 0"
*"
3 *7
("
-
0 9
6.#
3 * 7 & 3 7 " - - &
:
+-/3
%
3 0 !!#ENTER
4IMES
I " %
+ - / ,6 - "
& :
(OUSE -
09
#HETTIAR '035
04&
/(
0"%
4& , 4EMPL
PLE
, * .8 " -
,*.
$-
$"//*/(
, 3
,*
:
;*
:"
-&
.
1"3,
5"/
%
0/
"
.
7"-
4&
0
3
0
3
50
/(
" /(
C O L ONIAL
/
30
0" "/
"
&3
8
-5
"5
5: ".
;*0/
30
"%
3 "/
%
3*7
6
$- 3 3
0"
3
&5 63 * 7
4
&
0
5: "/
"%
"%
/6
&%
&
$ )6 5 )
& 5 ":
BM 6/ 3
"MFYBOESB $BO
."
.
$) 3
7&
*5
.
35 :
/"
"

": &
*/ 4
&5 "/
53
"
26 3,
30 7
0
D E L T A " && "
3& 6
:
.
5
6"
"
"6
&5
% -
45 ,(
$-
-
&&5
3&
/2
&
$&
:
45
$
E S T A T E
$-
1-" 5:&
53
$"4 &&5

540
5&
453
$&
.
"
&/
, 4
-"///*/(
5
3,
"%
,*
/
&&/
#&3
&5
&&
5"
,
%:
&.
&
30
3&
+*"
30
&
53
6"
2
30
%
%
$"
30" :
$-
45
03
4
("/(&4 "7 4JO
5
0/
0
&/
"/

6& HB
QP
*#0
/4
"%
$)
SF
&3
/"
3JW
3&
#ONCORDE
#ONCORDE
1
4"
0
.
30"% FS
-0
$, (OTEL
TEL $MBSLF
LF
& -0
; * 0
"7 ) " 2V
2VBZ
VBZ
0653".30"%
) 7 & -
0 $ , 3 0 #0
"5 T
"%
" % $6 5
.. $ &8
3&
.
/
*/ &3 45 )&8
4AN"OON
4A ( 3&
45
45 $) &5
3&
,IAT "U
,IAT"UILDING &5 "
/
, 5
3 0 " %
:"
% /
*/
3%
.
% )" -INIST
-INISTRYOF
-IN F
&
/ "
+"- +- 0 7&
3UBORDINA
ATE
ATE
4
48&& -AN
-ANPOWER R
"/
#6,*5 )0 3 -0
"
YORK H ILL & & #OU
#OURTS
URTS $ ,
0
30
(
)"
E S T A T E /48 "%
3
& /
% 7&
$30
" -0
( 0
05 *
30
#005*0/( $,
) 61
30
30"% 3A
AN#ENTERR 4
% 5
$ 2 1&
&&
44
5*0/( #" : 61 3

06
"
3 6
) 8 8 5 1&
3-4 )*-- 5&33"$&
4 3)
*
4
4 3 T
# &
45 0,*
3
53
3ENG0OH
G &&
4
6
&/
*/
&
5
5
&& 5
-*.-*" ,453&& "IRD-ARKE
"IRD-ARKETT 1&"3-4)*-- $IJOBUPXO
BUPXO
".
13
3
/
)
0
,*.$)&/(
&
CHINA TOWN
8
$
9
$
"
453&&5
%
%
- &
&
&
"
&/
30
(ONG,IM
3
0
/
$
0EOPLEgS0ARK
0EOPLEgS0
S0ARKK
(
3
#OMPLEX
#O
#OM
3"
)0
)
#HINATOWN
#H
#HINAT
"%
1"3,
0 #OMPLEXEXX
4& -"
0 $3
0
1 65
/( /&
( / 3" (ERITAGE#ENTER
(E TAGE#E 0
45
/ 4
1
&
& . 4
4& . $*5:1"3,
0)
$ 04
(
1
(6
% 26
&6
" "3 1" &

"/
*%

"
0 (0
$
, 45
3
&
)*
$
5& %"
1
)
/
. 45
3
)6
0
45
1-
45
1
#
"/
4. & 3RI
6
3&
( 4
/
4
&5
53
"/
*5
"/ 0 , -ARIAMMAN
- A MMAN
ARIA
3,
5
: 5 5* 1 &" 3 - # "
/ ) &&
3&
0
((
": && 5
1"
4EMPL
4 EMPLE
&
": 6 #HIN
#H
HINATOWN
TOW
O 45
5
$) 453 53
&/
3
48
".
4 " #OMPLEX
OMP
MPLEX &&
53
3& . 5
53
"%
1 3 4"
)041*5"- (0 "
&9
&5
,3
4*" //
45 -6#
06
0
)
30
" 4
3&
"7 0VUSBN1BSL 5
3%
"- )*- /(
5
&5
%
$
4"
*
-
53
&
5)
6
&/
T &
"
-" (0
&(
"/
/ /&
40
6&
34
"
$&
--
"%
/
,*
:&
$0
4*"
3I APORE
3INGAPO
3IN
&
/&
." %6950/
/6
3
$"
/
.ATIONAL
. ION
(3
, 3
-*
5
3%
7&
3
45
%YE#ENTER
YE# R
&
"
0"
%
#6 ,*5 1" 4 0) 3 0
&3
.ATIONAL
5& 30
"-
&
0/( 4"*
3 1-"*/
"
%
$, "%
0 "LOOD %
1*5
&/6&
% 3
" 33IINGAPO
3INGAPORE
-
% "
5
*.
#ENTER
04
'ENERAL 0
4
-URRAY3
URR 3TREET
TREEET
)
3
"7
1"3,
.
"
(OSPITAL
P
/%
- / 0 &OOD
&O
&OOD!LLEY
D!L
"
) 0 4 1 * 5"
"%
%3*7 & 3
* -
-
$0
9
,&
5" &
30"%
4
30
5
8
34
4&
*
'*
41
&
( &
&
/
0
/ (
-
"%
(&
)
-& 0 * %
0-
&&5

5 3
50/
$
3
+" #
3&&5
6
$"
-" 7&
453
-" & 8
%69
$3
/ #
"
%3*7& & "

/5
5"
*(
* 5" -
6
"3 30"%
/
1*
,*5 %
)45
04 30"
30
"%
0/.&/5
)
53"4
45 -
.& /&*
41
0 '*3
3" )
" 4 *"
8"--*$)
4&"
)
"7
"3,
453& 53&&5
50/1 &&5
&5 8"--*$)4
4 * - "5
&7&3
& /6&
5BOKPOH T
( "
-ARITIME
&5
1BHBS
1&$,
% (OUSE
1"(
1 0 / ( 0"
3%&
, " . # "
"%
3, 30"%
$)00/(6"/
453&
30"%
3
"3
) 3 6 *3 453&&5
5 30
/4
-"
TAN JONG
1" (
#
" /&3
/(
:" / , *
%
30 0
PAGAR
5(
0
3
41
1"
/+0
-!3
-!
53"
0C O N S E R V A T I O N
&
%
0 ,&&4
"UILD
ILDING
NG
5"
&/( !MARA
!
!M 1
8 41055*4800%&
AR EA +EPPEL
+E
+EPP
PEL 30 "34
/
4
4OWER
4OWE
OWERRS (
(OTEL "% *
5*
1"3,
&&5
&/((03453
4105
"% *
*/, 0"%
30 453
)0& $)*" /(3

/
)
1"
3 , 3 0 "% 5- -.
"
&/
.
1" . &3
3, 4 1055* 4 80 0 % & 0/ % &3/" &&5
#&3/".453&&
3 " & # 6 3 / 1" /5 3INGAPO
N POREE
**.5&$,,*.3%
": 4JOHBQPSF
H QP $"
&3 4ECHNOLOGIES
N IES )"-
5SBJO4UBUJPO
JO UB O "
"UILDING
NG
3"
+") ": & 3 3 " + " ) & 9 1 3 & 4 4 8 ":
" & 9 1 3 & 4 4 8 ":

# $

% & '
*"
#VHJT

.
)
1
5
6/ 40 T "UGIS
"UGISS
"U 0LAZA
&
&5
5 . #6
&
#ATHY $& (OTEL
%
* *UNCTION
*UN
UNCT
NCTION
3
3 0 " (
3&
&33
"
% *4
5
" % "UILDING
"U
UILDING
UILDING
30
5 % 4
4
0
5
45
,*3, -
&5
-AC$ONALD
NALD
LD
1
.
& "-
$)
-&
3&
)
(O
(OUSE ":
"
45

1
*3
0
&
4
#&
%
&
4& )NTERCONTINENTAL
)N
)NTE
E RCCON ENT
NTAL 5

0
5" /
-"
3
-*
0
3
"
$
5
(OTEL "
/ 45
0
0
3
*/
0 /
4
/
3-
2 3
0
(
:

$
&
#3"4 " 4
6 &&
5&
13
"
3
5
)
#
&"
&& 5
%
"
&
&
#"4") ) 0
&
8
&
#
&
4
6
3
3
1"3, 5
3
)
(
3INGAPORE
3ING
45
$"//*/( "
*(
3IINGAP
3INGAPO
3IN A RE #
* %
30" " &INAN
&INANCE(OUSE

% 4 */
30"%
! -
!RT
!RT-USEUM
*"
4
)
%
8" # 5 16
.ATI
.ATIONAL-USEUM
. -U M "
3
$
#
-,
-
"
" 37
0
1 OF3INGAPO
OF
FF3INGAPORE 4 $" *4
-
)
4
/
3$ " 4
*$
45 )*/ 53
&
0
/
*7" 4&
3
) &&
3
*/
- #A
#ATHEDRALOFTHE
FTHEE ")
%
30"%
3
5
*$
#ARLTON
0
"3
4
(
3HAW
0
'OOD3HEPH
PHERD
HER 3
(OTEL 53
"
/
0 &&
/
4OWERS
R
&7
5
%
3*4&
"
$
.AATIONAL Raffles
6-
%
$09 5
"
,IBRARYY
,IBRA Hotel 3UNTEC
#0
&
#HIJME
#HIJ
#H MES
ME
#ITY
#
45
&5
33
&
" 0ERA
ANAKAN
N " 33!
! &&.#/
. # /
3&
&,
-USEUM
U M . #
#LUB
$&
45
"4
'0 #O AD
#ONRAD
/
)NTL#ENTENNIAL
AL
.
3
*"
2AFFLES#IT
A TY 3IINGAPO
3IN A RE
%
5&
&/
5 &
))NTE
NT RNATIONAL
A
.
QU
UA R TE
T R !RMENIAN
MEN 3 #O
#OONVENTION
N #ENTENNIAL
I
"3
. " 4 & ,
8"3 %XHIBITION#ENTE
%X
XHIBITION#ENTE
O TER
#H
HURC
RCH
RC
C " 4OWER
%
%
.&.03*"-
3INGAPO
IN RE $JUZ)BMMM 3"
"
0HILAT
0HI ATE
TELIC-USEUM
M $0 1"3, /NE
E2AFF
FFLESS '' 0AN0ACIFIC
AN0ACIF C -ILLENIA
I
0
-&
. T ,INK
K -&
7ALK
L
3
/,
"/ 3T!ND
DREWgS 4
"%
4
& -ARINA
N
4 -*
53 #ATHEDRAL
H

" 7 & / 6 &

& 5
30
&&
-ANDARIN
RIN
N
*7
5
&
(ILL3TTREET
ET 3"''-& #06
3 &
-&7"3%
(
4
&
-ARINA
35
3 "UILDING
* %
3*7
&8
%3
5
3QUARE
R
06
0
,
)
4
"
-
#ITY
TYY
%3
*(
3
$
" % &5)8"
%
%
) 4HE/RIENTAL
4HEE/RIENTAL
/RIENTA
-
2ITZ #ARLTON
ITZ #ARLTON
TZ #ARLTON
#
#0
4 (AL
ALL
A
AL 1"%"/(
"/
* -
(OTEL
(O
5
-ILLENIA(OTEL
-ILLENIA(O

53
.
)
&&
-0
"#

()
5
$0
6ICTORIA
*/
-*;
&
)
3UP
UPREME
MEE
ME 4HEATER
T
4"
&
3"''-&4"7
"6
5
/
26
": #OU
OURT #ONCERT %SPLANADE4HEATERS &/6&
&&
3
5
ONTHE"AY
26
(ALL
//
0
61
&
&5 &
1&
#&/+".*/ 4)&"3&4 #3*%(&

3& *,
/
&
3 ,IM"O
"
"O
45 --1
$
$0
"/
*3
3
)"
$6 33ENG
G
5
/& /
-"
5
$" /LD0AR
ARL
AR
RLIA
AMENT
NT
&
3 -EM
- EM AL
EMORIAL
-" .
31 3%
4
*"
&/ (OU
(OUSE
5&
3-
&41-"/"%&
1-
34
1"
53
# 0 " 5
)0 1"3,
4JOH
/( &&
,0 5 2AFFLE
AFFL
FLES
LES !SIAN
! SIAN
AN 4 J O H B Q P
$*3$
/( S F 3 J W F
&4
45
3& ,ANDING
ING #IVILIZATTIO
#IVILIZATIONS
TIONS
TI
&5
3ITE S
6-"3 3
/0 -USEUM
-U UM
UM))
BQ
35
2 6
)
$"
SF
P
)0/(
0"
/" 4HE
4 HE
"
-*.
- &&ULLERRT
RTO
RTON
ON

%
3JW
:
1"3, 30
"% F S 3INGAPORE
3INGA
I OREE
&& &
1
45303(
5
*$ 406
,& 5)$ 5/"0LAZA
5
5/"0LAZ
0L /NE&ULLER
/
/NE& ERRTON
(&
3* "/
" 30 "
/( &3:
-3
% %
%
7A
7AK(AI $) 55
45 4 5 #" . B S J O B
"
3&&5
#HENG"IO
#H
HENG"IO 6-*"
)0
0
3"''-&4
1-"$&
,* 4EMPL
4EMPPLLE
."3,&5453&&5
*145
&/
3
&5
45
/"
$ # B Z
3&
/,
1)*-
*/
)
45
4
T 3BBGnFT1MB
GnF MBDF
:
6
$) 5
,8"
"
3$
*/ ." -"$ $"

$ "
45 )&8
*/
/C
/CEAN
)
453 &&5
45
1
5
&
45
$)
45 "UILDING
" UILDIN
IILDING
,
&
1" 3
3&
*/
3&
3&
45

&5 5
&
&3 4

"45
5
":
453&&5
3
&
:
,
&
-0
$0
$*-
$3
"
5&
(ONG,EONG
G,EO
&5
0
45
$&
44 "UILD
"UILDING
6
.AGO
GORE
R
3&

&"
$U
URG
RGHA
G 45
45
#0 3&
:
3"''-&4
0/ &5
4
0
5 2 6 ":
".
"5
4
5 3 ,AU0A
, 0A 1"3,
T nH
Thian Hock
k
-&
Keng
K ng Temple
T mple
&&
5 3AT
3& &:
''
%
! !B
!L !BRAR
BRA
&5
45 /-
"
-OSQU
-OSQUE
OSQU
"
0
&5
45
."3*/"
"
3
45
&
53
, ":&3
3
/
/ ,
2OBINA
2OBIN
0
4
- *
(O
(OUSE
4
-
5&-0
$*5:1"3,
* /
/
$*
":
$&
0 0
5 & -0 ,
3HEN
ENTON %
,8
0
":&3
( E
(OUSE 0
"
3 M A R I N A
" (
/,
3
1"3,
1"
3
S O U T H
-*
3,
5
/
"4
-
-
. " 3*
'
$0
&-
1"
0
5*
4 5
45
98
0
&"
%
"
/ " 45
."
& "
"
45
"-
.
":
3*/
"
-&
3*
"
:
/
5"
/
*
T .BSJOB
"5*0/
4EMA
4 EMASEKK "
."
3
8
" #
4OW
4OWE
OWER
OWE . #BZ 0
. 6
-&

"9
/
30"%
7"
$&
8
&- 3%
0
-
-"
30"% 4 5" .
/5
" 5* "3
1
0
*/
13*
/
30
*/"

3
/$
&
"%
"
&&
4)
%
.
8
6&
"3
K % 30"
(OCK4ECK
(O
&/
3EE4EMPL
3EE 4EM LE % 'JOHFS1JFS
& 3 3 0"%
7
1"- .
"
-
&INGER 0
&INGER0IER
30 " "UILDING
ING
NGG
"% */
.
3
&
5
% & '
Street Finder Index

Boon Tiong Road 1 F5 Chatsworth Avenue 1 D3
A continues 4 A3 Chatsworth Park 1 D3
D
A.A. Center 2 B5, 4 B1 Delta Estate 1 E4
Boulevard Hotel 1 F2 Chatsworth Road 1 D3
Adis Road 2 C4 & 4 A2
Bras Basah Park 3 D5 Chay Yan Street 4 A4
Al-Abrar Mosque 5 D4 Delta Road 1 E4
continues 5 D1 Chettiar Hindu
Albert Street 3 D4, 3 E4 Derbyshire Road 2 C2
Bras Basah Road 3 D5 Temple 2 B5, 4 C2
Alexandra Canal 1 D4 Desker Road 3 E3
continues 5 D1 Chijmes 3 D5, 5 E1
continues 4 A2 Devonshire Road 2 A4
British High Chin Chew St. 5 D3
Alexandra Road 1 D4 continues 4 B1
Commission 1 D2 Chin Swee Road 4 B3
Amara Hotel 4 C5 Dhoby Ghaut Station 2C4
Buckley Road 2 B1 China Street 5 D3
Amoy Street 5 D4 & 4 C1
Bugis Junction 3 E4 Chinatown 4 C3
ANA Hotel Dorset Road 3 D2
continues 5 E1 Chinatown Complex 4 C4
Singapore 1 E2 Draycott Drive 1 F1
Bugis Station 3 E4, 5 E1 Chinatown Heritage
Anderson Road 1 E1 continues 2 A3
Bugis Street 3 E4, 5 E1 Center 4 C3
Angullia Park 1 F2, 1 F3 Draycott Park 1 F1
Bukit Merah View 1 E5 Chinatown Station 4 C4
Ann Siang Hill 4 C4
Chitty Road 3 E3 Dublin Road 2 B4
Bukit Pasoh Road 4 B4
Ann Siang Road 4 C4 Choon Guan Street 4 C5 & 4 B1
Bukit Timah Road 2 A1
Anson Road 4 C5, 5 D5 Chulia Street 5 D3 Dunearn Road 2 A1
continues 2 B2, 3 D3
Anthony Road 2 A2 Church Street 5 D3 Dunlop Street 3 D3
Bukit Tunggal Road 2 A1
Arab Street 3 E4 Circular Road 5 D3 Duxton Plain Park 4 B4
continues 2 B1
Ardmore Park 1 F1 City Hall 5 D2 Duxton Road 4 C4
Burmah Road 3 E2
Armenian Church 3 D5 City Hall Station 5 E2
continues 5 D2
Armenian Street 3 D5
C C.K. Tang 2 A3 E
Clarke Quay 4 C2 East Coast Parkway 5 E5
Cable Road 1 E4
continues 5 D2 Claymore Drive 1 F2
Cairnhill Circle 2 A3 East Lagoon Link 5 D5
Asia Gardens 4 B5 Claymore Hill 1 F2
Cairnhill Rise 2 B3 Edinburgh Road 2 C3
Asian Civilizations Claymore Road 1 F2
Cairnhill Road 2 A3 Egyptian Embassy 1 E3
Museum II 5 D3 Clemenceau Avenue 2 C4
Cambridge Road 2 C2 Elizabeth Hotel 2 A3
Asimont Lane 2 A1 continues 4 C1
continues 3 D1 Elizabeth Link 2 A3
Australian High Clemenceau Avenue
Camp Road 1 D2 Emerald Hill Road 2 B4
Commission 1 D2 North 2 B2
Canning Lane 4 C2 Eminent Plaza 3 F2
Ayer Rajah Clive Street 3 D3
Canning Rise 2 C5, 5 D1 Empress Place 5 D3
Expressway 4 A5 Club Street 4 C4
Canning Road 4 C1 Eng Cheong Tower 3 F3
Cluny Road 1 D1, 1 D2
Canning Walk 2 C5 Eng Hoon Street 4 A3
B Cantonment Link 4 B5
Coleman Street 5 D2
Enggor Street 4 C5
Baboo Lane 3 D3 College Road 4 A4
Cantonment Road 4 B4 Environment Building
Bain Street 3 D5, 5 E1 Colombo Court 5 D2
Carlisle Road 2 C2, 3 D2 2 A2
Balestier Road 3 E1 Colonial Quarter 4 B1
Carlton Hotel 3 D5, 5 E1 Erskine Road 4 C4
Balmoral Crescent 2 A2 Colonial Quarter
Carpenter Street 5 D3 Esplanade
Balmoral Road 2 A1 Marina South 5 D2
Caseen Street 4 B2 Drive 5 E2, 5 E3
Barker Road 2 A1 Comcenter 2 A4, 4 B1
Cashin Street 3 D5, 5 E1 Esplanade Park 5 E3
Battery Road 5 E3 Concorde Hotel 4 A2
Cathay Building 2 C4 Esplanade Theaters
Beach Road 3 F4, 5 E1 Concourse 3 F4
continues 5 D1 on the Bay 5 E2
Beatty Road 3 E2 continues 5 F1
Cathedral of the Good Essex Road 2 C1
Bencoolen Street 3 D4 Connaught Drive 5 E2
Shepherd 3 D5, 5 D1 Eu Chin Street 4 A3
continues 5 D1 Conrad International
Cavan Road 3 F2 Eu Tong Sen Street 4 B4
Bendemeer Road 3 F2 Hotel 3 E5, 5 F2
Cavenagh Road 2 B3 continues 5 D3
Benjamin Sheares Cox Terrace 2 C5
Cecil Street 5 D4 Evelyn Road 2 B1
Bridge 5 F3 & 5 D1
Centennial Tower 3 F5 Everton Park 4 B5
Bernam Street 4 C5 Craig Road 4 C4
continues 5 F2 Exeter Road 2 A4
Bideford Road 2 A4 Cross Street 4 C3
Center Tourism & 4 B1
Birch Road 3 D2 & 5 D4
Bishopsgate 1 E4 Court 1 E2 Crown Prince Hotel 2 A4
Blair Road 4 B5 Centerpoint 2 B4 Cuff Road 3 D3 F
Blanco Court 3 E4 Central Expressway 2 C2 Cumming Street 4 C3 Far East Plaza 2 A3
Boat Quay 5 D3 continues 3 D1, 4 A4 Cuppage Plaza 2 B4 Far East Shopping
Boon Keng Road 3 F1 Central Sikh Temple 3 F1 Cuppage Road 2 B4 Center 1 F2
Boon Siew Building 2 C3 Chancery Lane 2 A1 Cuscaden Road 1 E2 Farrer Park Fields 3 D2
Boon Tat Street 5 D4 Chander Road 3 D3 Cuscaden Walk 1 F2 Fernhill Close 1 E1
S I N G A P O R E S T R E E T F I N D E R 265
Fernhill Crescent 1 E1 Henderson Crescent 1 E5 Jalan Jintan 2 A3 Klang Lane 3 D3

Fernhill Road 1 E1 Henderson Road 1 E5 Jalan Kayu Manis 2 A3 Kramat Lane 2 C4
Finger Pier 5 D5 Hertford Road 2 C2 Jalan Kelawar 1 E3 Kreta Ayer Road 4 C4
Finger Pier Building 5 D5 continues 3 D2 Jalan Korma 2 C1 Kwan Im Tong Hood
First Hospital Avenue 4 A5 High Commission of Jalan Kuala 2 A5, 4 A1 Che Temple 3 D4
Flanders Square 3 E2 Brunei Darussalam 1 D3 Jalan Kubor 3 E3 Kwong Wai Shiu
Foch Road 3 F2 High Street 5 D2 Jalan Lada Puteh 2 A3 Hospital 3 E1
Fort Canning Park 2 C5 Hill Street 5 D2 Jalan Lembah
continues 4 C1 Hill Street Building 5 D2 Kallang 3 F1 L
Fort Canning Road 2 C5 Hilton International Jalan Minyak 4 B3 Lady Hill Road 1 E1
continues 4 C1, 5 D1 Singapore 1 F2 Jalan Rumbia 2 B5, 4 C1 Lan Street 3 E4
Forum Galleria 1 F2 Hindoo Road 3 D3, 3 E3 Jalan Sultan 3 F3 Lau Pa Sat 5 D4
Four Seasons 1 F2 Hock Teck See Jalan Tan Tock Lavender Station 3 F3
Four Seasons Park 1 F2 Temple 5 D5 Seng 2 C1 Lavender Street 3 F2
French Road 3 F3 Hoe Chiang Road 4 C5 Jalan Tupai 1 E3 Le Meridien/Singapore
Fu Lu Shou Complex 3 E4 Hokien St. 5 D3 Jellicoe Road 3 F3 Shopping Center 2 B4
Fullerton Building 5 E3 Holt Road 1 E4 Jervois Lane 1 D4 continues 4 C1
Hong Leong Jervois Road 1 D4, 1 E4 Lengkok Angsa 1 F3
G Building 5 D4 Jiak Kim Street 4 A2 Lengkok Merak 1 E3
Ganges Avenue 1 F5 Hong Lim Joo Avenue 3 E1 Leong San See
continues 4 A2 Complex 4 C3 Temple 3 E1
Gentle Road 2 A1 Hong Lim Park 5 D3 K Leonie Hill 1 F3, 4 A1
George Street 5 D3 Hongkong Street 5 D3 Kallang Avenue 3 F2 Leonie Hill
Gilstead Road 2 B1 Hooper Road 2 C2 Kallang Bahru 3 F2 Road 2 A5, 4 A1
& 2 B2 Hoot Kiam Road 1 F3 Kallang Bahru Lermit Road 1 D1
Gleneagles Hospital 1 D2 Horne Road 3 F2 Complex 3 F2 Liane Road 1 D1
Gleneagles Medical Hospital Drive 4 A5 Kallang Basin Estate 3 F1 Liang Seah Street 3 E5
Center 1 D2 Hotel Asia 2 A2 Kampong Bahru 4 A5 continues 5 E1
Gloucester Road 3 D2 Hotel Premier 1 E2 Kampong Java Park 2 C2 Lim Bo Seng
Golden Landmark Hotel Royal 2 B1 Kampong Java Road 2 B2 Memorial 5 E3
Hotel 3 E4 House of Tan Yeok Kapor Road 3 E3 Lim Liak Street 4 A3
Golden Mile Tower 3 F4 Nee 2 B4, 4 C1 Kay Poh Road 1 F4 Lim Teck Kim Road 4 C5
Goldhill Avenue 2 A1 Hullet Road 2 B4 Kee Seng Street 4 C5 Lincoln Road 2 B2
Goldhill Center 2 C1 Kelantan Lane 3 E3 Little India 3 D2
Goldhill Plaza 2 B1 I Kelantan Road 3 E2 Little India Arcade 3 D3
Goldhill Rise 2 A1 IBM 4 C5 Kellock Road 1 F4 Little India Station 3 D3
Goodwood Hill 2 A2 Immigration Building 3 F3 Kempas Road 3 F1 Lloyd Gardens 2 B5
Goodwood Park Indian High Commission Keng Lee Road 2 B2 continues 4 B1
Hotel 2 A3 2 A4, 4 A1 Kent Road 3 D1 Lloyd Road 2 B5, 4 B1
Grand Hyatt Indus Road 1 F5 Keong Saik Road 4 C4 Lower Delta Road 1 E5
Singapore 2 A3 InterContinental Keppel Towers 4 C5 Lucky Plaza 2 A3
Grange Road 1 E3 Hotel 3 E5 Khiang Guan Avenue 2 B1
continues 2 A4, 4 A1 continues 5 E1 Killiney Road 2 A5 M
Guan Chuan Street 4 A3 Irwell Bank Road 1 F3 continues 4 B1 MacAlister Road 4 A4
continues 4 A1 Kim Cheng Street 4 A3 MacDonald House 2 C4
H Istana (Presidents Kim Seng Road 1 F4 continues 5 D1
Hajjah Fatimah Residence) 2 C3 continues 4 A1 MacKenzie Road 2 C3
Mosque 3 F4 Istana Kampong Kim Seng Walk 1 F4 continues 3 D3
Halifax Road 2 C2 Glam 3 F4 continues 4 A2 Main Gate Road 1 D2
Hallpike Street 5 D3 Istana Park 2 C4, 4 C1 Kim Yam Road 2 B5 Malacca Street 5 D3
Hamilton Road 3 F2 continues 4 B1 Malay Street 3 E4, 5 E1
Hampshire Road 3 D3 J King Georges Avenue Malaysian High
Handy Road 2 C4 Jalan Arnap 1 E3 3 F3 Commission 5 D2
continues 4 C1, 5 D1 Jalan Besar 3 E3 Kinta Road 3 D2 Mandalay Road 3 D1
Havelock Road 1 E5 Jalan Besar Plaza 3 E3 Kirk Terrace 2 C4 Marina Bay Station 5 E5
continues 4 A2 Jalan Besar Stadium 3 F2 continues 3 D4, 5 D1 Marina Boulevard 5 F5
Havelock Square 4 C3 Jalan Bukit Ho Swee 1 E5 Kitchener Road 3 E2 Marina City Park 5 F4
Haw Par Glass Tower 2 C5 continues 4 A3 KK Hospital 2 C3 Marina Mandarin
continues 4 C1 Jalan Bukit Merah 4 A4 KK Womens, Hotel 5 E2
Heeren Building 2 A4 Jalan Jati 2 C1 Childrens Hospital 2 C2 Marina Park 5 D5
Marina Place Nassim Road Oxley Garden

Marina Square
5 F5
5 F2 Nathan Road
1 D1
1 E4 continues
2 B5
4 C1
Q
Queen Elizabeth
Marina Station Road 5 D5 National Blood Center 4 B4 Oxley Rise 2 B4
Walk 5 E2
continues 5 F5 National Library 3 D5 continues 4 C1
Queen Street 3 D5
Maritime House 4 B5 continues 5 D1 Oxley Road 2 B5
continues & 5 E1
Market Street 5 D3 National Skin Center 3 D1 continues 4 B1
Marne Road 3 E2 Neil Road 4 B5 Oxley Walk 2 B5
Martin Road 4 B2 New Bridge Road 4 B4 continues 4 C1
R
Race Course Lane 3 D2
MAS Building 4 C5 continues 5 D3
Race Course Road 3 D2
Maude Road 3 E3 New Park Hotel 3 E2 P Raeburn Park 4 A5
Maxwell Link 5 D5 New World Park 3 E2 Padang 5 E2
Raffles Avenue 5 F2
Maxwell Road 4 C4 Newton Circus Hawker Pagoda Street 4 C3
Raffles Boulevard 5 F2
continues 5 D5 Center 2 B2 Palmer Road 4 C5, 5 D5
Raffles City 3 D5
McNair Road 3 E1 Newton Road 2 B2 Pan Pacific Hotel 5 F2
& 5 E2
Merchant Loop 4 C2 Newton Station 2 C1 Paragon 2 A4
Raffles Hospital 3 E4
Merchant Road 4 C3 Ngee Ann City 2 A4 Park Crescent 4 C3
Raffles Hotel 3 E5
Mergui Road 3 D1 Nicoll Highway 3 E5 Park Mall 2 C5, 4 C1
& 5 E1
Meritus Mandarin 2 A4 continues 5 E3 Parliament Lane 5 D3
Raffles Landing Site 5 D3
Middle Road 3 D4 Nile Road 1 F5 Parsi Road 4 C5
continues & 5 E1
Raffles Link 5 E2
Niven Road 3 E4 Paterson Road 1 F3
Middle Road Hospital 3 D4 Raffles Place 5 D3
Norfolk Road 2 C2 Pearl Bank 4 B4
Millenia Walk 3 F5
Raffles Place Station 5 D3
Norris Road 3 D3 Pearls Hill City Park 4 B3
continues 5 F2 Raffles Quay 5 D4
North Bridge Road 3 E4 Pearls Hill Terrace 4 C4
Minden Road 1 D2
Raffles Quay Park 5 D4
continues 3 E5, 5 E1 Peck Hay Road 2 A3
Ministry of Education Rangoon Road 3 D1
North Canal Road 5 D3 Peck Seah Street 4 C5
Rangoon Secondary
Teachers Network 1 F3 Northumberland Pekin Street 5 D3
School 3 E1
Ministry of Road 3 D3 Penang Lane 2 C5
Read Street 4 C2
Manpower 4 C3 Novena Station 2 B2 & 4 C1
& 4 C3
Mistri Road 4 C5 Nutmeg Road 2 A3 Penang Road 2 B4, 4 C1
Redhill Close 1 D5
Mohamad Sultan Penhas Road 3 F3
Redhill Road 1 D5
Road 2 B5 O Peoples Park
Redhill Station 1 D5
continues 4 B2 Ocean Building 5 E4 Complex 4 C3
Republic Avenue 3 F5
Monks Hill Road 2 B2 Office Ring Road 1 D2 Perak Road 3 D3
Republic Boulevard 3 F5
Monks Hill Terrace 2 B2 Old Parliament Peranakan Museum 2 C5 Ridley Park 1 D3
Mosque Street 4 C3 House 5 D3 & 5 D2
Ritz-Carlton Millenia 5 F2
Moulmein Rise 2 C1 Oldham Lane 2 C4 Peranakan Place 2 B4 River Valley Close 2 A5
Moulmein Road 2 C1 continues & 4 C1 Percival Road 2 C5 continues 4 B2
Mount Echo Park 1 D4 One Fullerton 5 E3 & 5 D1 River Valley Grove 2 A5
Mount Elizabeth 2 A4 One Tree Hill 1 E3 Perumal Road 3 E2 continues 4 A1
Mount Elizabeth Ophir Road 3 E4, 5 F1 Petain Road 3 E2 River Valley Road 1 E4
Hospital 2 A3 Orange Grove Road 1 E1 Philip Street 5 D3 continues 2 A5, 4 A1
Mount Emily 2 C3 Orchard Boulevard 1 E2 Phoenix Hotel 2 B4 continues 4 C2, 5 D2
Mount Emily Park 2 C3 continues 2 A4 continues 4 B1 Roberts Lane 3 D2
Mount Rosie Road 2 A1 Orchard Link 2 A4 Pickering Street 5 D3 Robertson Quay 4 B2
Mount Sophia 2 C4 Orchard Parade Hotel 1 F2 Plaza Hotel 3 F4 Robina House 5 D4
continues 5 D1 Orchard Plaza 2 B4 & 5 F1 Robinson Road 5 D4
Murray Street Orchard Point 2 B4 Plaza Singapura 2 C4 & 5 D5
Food Alley 4 C4 Orchard Road 1 F2, 2 A4 continues 4 C1 Rochalie Drive 1 D3
Mustafa Center 3 E2 continues 2 B4, 4 C1 Prince Charles Rochor Canal 2 A2
Muthuraman continues 4 C2, 5 D1 Crescent 1 D4 & 3 D4
Chetty Road 4 B2 Orchard Station 1 E2 Prince Charles Rochor Canal Road 3 D4
Orchard Turn 2 A4 Square 1 D4 & 3 E4
N Ord Road 4 C2 Prince Edward Road 5 D5 Rochor Center 3 E4
Nagore Durgha 5 D4 Oriental Hotel 5 F2 Prince Philip Avenue 1 D4 Rochor River 3 F3
Nankin Street 5 D3 Outram Park 4 B4 Prinsep Court 3 D4 Rochor Road 3 E4, 5 F1
Nanson Road 4 B2 Outram Park Prinsep Street 3 D4 Rodyk Street 4 B2
Napier Road 1 D2 Station 4 B4 continues 5 D1 Rowell Road 3 E3
Narayanan Chetty Outram Road 4 A3 Promenade 2 A4 Royal Holiday Inn
Road 4 B2 Owen Road 3 D1 Purvis Street 3 E5 Crowne Plaza 1 F2
Nassim Hill 1 D2 Oxford Road 3 D2 continues & 5 E1 Rutland Road 3 D2
S I N G A P O R E S T R E E T F I N D E R 267
Singapore Indian Fine Arts Towner Road

S Society 3 D2
T Tras Street
3 E1
4 C5
S.A.F.N.C.O. Club 3 E5 Taman Serasi 1 D2
Singapore International Trengganu Street 4 C4
continues 5 E2 Tan Boon Liat
Convention, Exhibition Tronoh Road 3 F1
Sago Lane 4 C4 Building 4 A3
Center 3 E5, 5 F2 Truro Road 3 D2
Sago Street 4 C4 Tan Quee Lan Street 3 E4
Singapore Marriott 1 F2 Tyrwhitt Road 3 E3
Saiboo Street 4 B2 continues 5 E1
Singapore National
Saint Andrews Tan Tock Seng
Cathedral 5 E2
Eye Center 4 B4
Hospital 2 C1
U
Singapore Philatelic United Square 2 C1
Saint Andrews Road 5 E2 Tan Tye Place 4 C2
Museum 2 C5, 5 D2 Unity Street 4 C2
Saint Margarets Tanglin Golf Course 1 D2
Singapore Railway UOB Plaza 5 D3
School 2 C4 Tanglin Hill 1 D3
Station 4 B5 UOL Building 2 A4
Saint Martins Drive 1 E2 Tanglin Rise 1 D3
Singapore River 4 B2 Upper Circular Rd 5 D3
Saint Thomas Walk 2 A5 Tanglin Road 1 D3
continues 5 D3 Upper Cross Street 4 C3
continues 4 A1 Tanglin Shopping
Singapore School Upper Dickson Road 3 D3
Sam Leong Road 3 E3 Center 1 E2
for the Deaf 1 D4 Upper Hokien Street 4 C3
San Center 4 B3 Tanglin Walk 1 D3
Singapore Technologies Upper North Canal
Sarkies Road 2 A2 Tanjong Pagar 4 C5
Building 4 C5 Road 4 C3
Saunders Road 2 B4 Tanjong Pagar
Smith Street 4 C4 Upper Weld Road 3 E3
Scotts Road 1 F2 Conservation Area 4 B5
Somerset Road 2 A4 Upper Wilkie
& 2 A3 Tanjong Pagar Road 4 C5
Somerset Station 2 B4 Road 2 C3, 2 C4
Scotts Shopping Tanjong Pagar
Sophia Road 2 C4 United States of America
Center 2 A3 Station 4 C5
South Bridge Embassy 1 D2
Seah Street 3 E5, 5 E1 Tank Road 2 B5, 4 C2
Road C4, 5 D3
Second Hospital Teck Guan Street 4 C2
South Canal Road 5 D3
Teck Lim Road
V
Avenue 4 B4 4 C4
Specialists Shopping Veerasamy Road 3 D3
Selegie House 3 D4 Tekka Center 3 D3
Center 2 B4 Verdun Road 3 E2
Selegie Road 3 D4 Telok Ayer Park 5 D4
Spooner Road 4 A5 Victoria Lane 3 E3
Seng Poh Bird Telok Ayer Street 5 D4
Spottiswoode Park 4 B5 Victoria Street
Market 3 D5 Temasek Avenue 3 F5
Spottiswoode Park 3 D5, 5 E1
Seng Poh Lane 4 A3 continues 5 F2
Road 4 B5 Victoria Theater
Seng Poh Road 4 A3 Temasek Boulevard 3 E5
Sri Krishnan & Concert Hall 5 E2
Serangoon Plaza 3 E2 continues 5 F2
Temple 3 D4 Viking Road 1 D5
Serangoon Road 3 E1 Temasek Tower 5 D5
Sri Mariamman
Temasek Polytechnic 5 D5
Shanghai Road 1 E4
Temple 4 C4
Temasek Polytechnic
W
Shangri-La Hotel 1 E1
Sri Srinivasa Perumal Wak Hai Cheng
Shaw Towers 3 E5, 5 E1 (former) 1 F3
Temple 3 E2 Biotemple 5 D3
Shenton House 5 D4 Temasek Tower 5 D5
Sri Temasek 2 B4 Wallich Street 4 C5
Shenton Way 5 D5 Temple Street 4 C4
Sri Veeramakaliamman War Memorial Park 3 F5
Terminal Avenue 5 D5
Sheraton Towers Temple 3 D3 continues 5 E2
Tessensohn Road 3 C2
Singapore 2 A2 Stamford Road 3 D5 Waterloo Street 3 D4
Tew Chew Street 4 C3
Sherwood Road 1 D2 continues 5 F2 continues 5 D1
Thian Hock Keng
Short Street 3 D4 Stanley Street 5 D4 Wee Nam Road 2 B2
Temple 5 D4
Shrewsbury Road 2 C1 Starlight Road 3 D2 Weld Road 3 E3
Third Hospital
continues 3 D1 Stevens Road 1 F1 Whampoa West 3 F1
Avenue 4 A4
Silat Avenue 4 A5 Sturdee Road 3 E2 Wheelock Place 1 F2
Thomson Road 2 B1
Sing Avenue 3 E2 & 3 F2 Wilkie Road 2 C4
Times House 1 F4,
Singapore Art Subordinate Courts 4 C3 Winstedt Road 2 B2
4 A1
Museum 3 D5 Suffolk Road 2 C2 Wisma Atria Shopping
Tiong Bahru Plaza 1 E5
continues 5 D1 Sultan Mosque 3 E4 Tiong Bahru Road 1 D5 Center 2 A4
Singapore Botanic Sultan Plaza 3 F4 continues 4 A3 Wisma Indonesia 1 E3
Gardens 1 D1 Sungei Road 3 D3 Tiong Bahru Station 1 F5
Singapore Council of Social & 3 E4 Tiong Poh Road 4 A4 Y
Services 2 C5, 4 C1 Sungei Whompoe 3 F1 continues & 4 A3 Yan Kit Road 4 C5
Singapore Finance Suntec City 3 E5 Tiverton Lane 2 A4 York Hill Estate 4 A3
House 3 E5, 5 E1 & 5 F1 continues 4 B1
Singapore General Supreme Court 5 D2 Tomlinson Road 1 E2 Z
Hospital 4 A4 Surrey Road 2 B1 Tong Building 2 A4 Zhujiao Center 3 D3
Singapore History Swan Lake 1 D2 Tong Watt Road 2 B5 Zion Close 1 E4, 4 A2
Museum 3 D5, 5 D1 Syed Alwi Road 3 E3 continues 4 B2 Zion Road 1 F4, 4 A2
TRAVELERS
NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY 270291

WHERE TO EAT 292313
SHOPPING IN MALAYSIA 314319
ENTERTAINMENT IN MALAYSIA 320323
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES IN MALAYSIA 324329
270 T R AV E L E R S N E E D S
WHERE TO STAY
A
B oth Malaysia and Singapore offer
a variety of accommodations,
from luxury hotels to simple
guesthouses. Prices are fairly reason-
able, although Malaysian Borneo
lovely boutique hotels. Budget
travelers will find excellent guest-
houses offering dormitory beds,
and in some parts of the country,
homestays can be arranged. An
and Singapore tend to be more overnight stay in a longhouse is a
expensive than Peninsular Malaysia. wonderful way of experiencing
Top international hotel chains are Dayak culture. Malaysias national
well-represented, and there are some parks provide cabins and camp-
beautiful resorts in idyllic settings. sites, making it possible to stay in
Mid-range options include govern- the heart of the rain forest. For more
ment rest houses, an echo of the Doorman at the information, refer to the detailed
countries colonial past, and some Raffles Hotel listings on pages 27291.
have spas, watersports and BUDGET HOTELS AND

fitness facilities, golf courses, HOMESTAYS
and a range of shops, restau-
rants, and bars, giving guests All the cities and towns of
no reason to step out of the Malaysia have budget hotels
resort during their stay. and guesthouses in tourist
areas. Not only are these eco-
MID-RANGE HOTELS nomical, but they can also be
a good source of local infor-
Some of the mid-range hotels mation. While the facilities
have facilities comparable to offered by most guesthouses
top-end hotels, but with the are basic, some include free
opening of a slew of interna- breakfast and Internet access.
tional chains, they have had Homestays are becoming
to reduce their prices to stay increasingly popular as they
competitive and now provide present an opportunity to get
The well-designed Sutera Harbour extremely good value for to know Malaysians outside
Resort, Sabah (see p285) money. This category includes the tourist industry. The local
boutique hotels, which focus tourist offices always have a
RATINGS on generating an exotic and list of homestay programs.
relaxing ambience. They are
All hotels in Malaysia and usually more intimate than the LONGHOUSES
Singapore follow the star chain hotels, and can offer
grading system. Top- and mid- personalized services. Also in Travelers to Malaysian Borneo,
range hotels are accredited this category are former gov- particularly Sarawak, can
with star ratings according to ernment rest houses, which experience a night in a long-
the level of luxury, facilities, once lodged colonial officials. house, the traditional dwelling
and services they offer but Most of them have now been of many indigenous groups,
guesthouses have no such renovated and are managed such as the Bidayuh (see p161)
ratings. While these ratings by Seri Malaysia Hotels, and and the Iban (see p167). The
help in selecting accommo- are good options for visitors majority of visitors to long-
dations, it is wise to visit the keen to get a sense of heri- houses organize their trips
official websites of individual tage during their stay. through tour agents, such as
hotels for the best deals.
INTERNATIONAL AND
RESORT HOTELS
Several of the worlds best

known international hotel
chains are represented in
Malaysia and Singapore,
offering luxurious rooms and
impeccable service. Many of
them incorporate features of
local architecture in an effort
to make their rooms more
personal. The resorts, located
in beautiful surroundings, The Planters Inn restaurant, Crowne Plaza, Kuala Lumpur (see p274)
White sand beaches set against the emerald seas in Pulau Perhentian Kecil, off Terengganu
T
W H E R E T O S T AY 271
TRAVELING WITH KIDS
Hotel staff in both Malaysia

and Singapore tend to indulge
younger guests, and will occa-
sionally also give preferential
treatment to their parents.
Even at basic hotels, children
under the age of 12 years can
often stay for free in their
parents room. Not all hotels
have playgrounds and other
special facilities for kids, but
most are very flexible about
Suite at Royal Mulu Resort, Sarawak (see p282) providing extra beds in rooms
and arranging special meals.
Borneo Adventures (see p329) fill up and advance booking Baby cots and high chairs are
and Sabah Tourism
T Board (see also becomes necessary. At available with some notice.
p335), who arrange stays at quieter times of the year, espe- Some resort hotels organize
working longhouses. Facilities cially during the monsoon sea- activities for kids and offer
provided are generally very son between November and babysitting services.
basic, consisting of little more February, rates drop signifi-
than a floor mattress and cantly and discounts can be SPECIAL NEEDS
mosquito net, although some obtained on the east coast of
longhouses have now installed the peninsula. Prior reserva- Apart from top-end hotels,
western-style toilets to make tions are essential at top-end few places offer special
the stay a little more comfor- hotels, for the best prices. facilities for the disabled in
table for their guests. Malaysia or Singapore (see
Some top-end international HIDDEN COSTS p334). For the mobility
hotels are also constructed in impaired, facilities are limited
the form of longhouses, dupli- Most budget and mid-range to ramps for wheelchairs and
cating the traditional structure hotels quote net prices that lifts to all floors. Some five-
while including a range of include all taxes. However, star hotels have rooms fitted
urban luxuries and comforts. top-end hotels in Malaysia with wider doors, low-level
display a price amount with light switches, and wheelchair
NATIONAL PA
P RKS AND the symbol ++ after the rate, access. It is rare for budget
CAMPING which means that 10 percent hotels and dormitories to
service charge and 5 percent have any such provisions.
National Parks and reserves government tax will be added
throughout Malaysia offer to it. In Singapore, this symbol DIRECTORY
reasonably comfortable becomes +++, which refers
accommodations in lodges to 10 percent service charge, MID-RANGE HOTELS
or cabin-style huts, usually 17 percent Goods and Services
located around the Park Tax, and 1 percent government Seri Malaysia Hotels
Headquarters. They also have tax. Food and beverage items Tell (03) 2300-2777.
campsites where visitors may in luxury hotels and restau- www.serimalaysia.com.my
either rent a tent or pitch their rants also have taxes and
own. Few other campsites in service charges added on. NATIONAL PA
P RKS AND
Malaysia or Singapore permit CAMPING
travelers to put up a tent on a
beach, but facilities are basic. Department of Wildlife
For information, bookings, and National Parks
and permits, it is wise to KM 10 Jalan Cheras, Kuala
contact the Department of Lumpur.
Wildlife and National Parks, Tell (03) 9075-2872.
Sarawak Forestry Corporation, www.wildlife.gov.my
and Sabah National Parks. Sabah National Parks
Kota Kinabalu.
RATES AND Tell (088) 212-508.
RESERVATIONS
Sarawak Forestry
Room rates tend to remain Corporation
steady throughout the year, Level 12, Office Tower, Hock Lee
increasing only slightly during Center, Jalan Datuk Abang Abdul
festivals such as Hari Raya Rahim, Kuching.
Puasa, Chinese New Year
Y (see Tell (082) 348-001.
pp289), and Christmas, when Cabin-style huts, Sepilok Nature www.sarawakforestry.com
all levels of accommodations Resort, Sandakan (see p285)
Choosing a Hotel PRICE CATEGORIES

The price ranges are for a standard
double room, inclusive of breakfast for
These hotels have been selected for their good value, two and service (10%) and government
facilities, and location. The prices listed are those charged tax (5%) during peak season.
Under RM100
by the hotel, although discounts may be available. Price RM100RM200
bands for Singapore are given on pages 287, 289, and RM200RM300
291. Map references for Kuala Lumpur refer to maps on RM300RM400
Over RM400
pp7885 and for Singapore to maps on pp25867.
KUALA L UMPUR
AMPANG SuCasa Service Apartments S:z7
222 Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Tel (03) 4251-3833 Fax (03) 4252-1096 Rooms 180
Shielded from the bustle of city life, this service apartment property has a tranquil charm providing quiet
accommodations. The long-term rates are substantially cheaper than the daily tariffs. The apartments are well-
equipped and fully furnished. www.sucasa.com.my
BANGSAR Cititel Mid Valley :z7
Mid Valley City, Kuala Lumpur, 59200 Tel (03) 2296-1188 Fax (03) 2283-5551 Rooms 646
This hotel is conveniently situated for the Mid Valley Megamall and is a favorite with shopaholics. The rooms are
simple, compact, and well-equipped. Though the hotel is a little out of the city center, it is self-sufficient with its
own complex of shops, services, restaurants, fitness center, and bars. www.cititelhotel.com
BUKIT BINTANG Bintang Warisan Hotel z
68 Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, 55100 Tel (03) 2148-8111 Fax (03) 2148-2333 Rooms 97 Map 5 C3
This is a good budget hotel situated in the center of the Bukit Bintang shopping and entertainment district. The
rooms are clean and comfortable with double-glazed windows to eliminate street noise. There is an atmospheric
coffeehouse that opens onto the street. www.bintangwarisan.com
BUKIT BINTANG Hotel Agora :z
Located in the busiest part of Kuala Lumpur, close to the Bukit Bintang monorail station, this compact hotel is well-
suited for budget travelers. The rates do not include breakfast, but within walking distance is Kuala Lumpurs main
entertainment district, with myriad dining options, including food stalls on Jalan Alor. www.agorahotel.net
BUKIT BINTANG Hotel Nova Kuala Lumpur :z
1622 Jalan Alor, Kuala Lumpur, 50200 Tell (03) 2143-1818 Fax (03) 2142-9985 Rooms 154 Map 5 C2
Located on Jalan Alor, Hotel Nova is a bargain, especially for visitors eager to sample local hawker food. The hotels
Casanova Kafe serves delicious breakfasts, evening snacks, and Jalan Alors cheapest beer during happy hours
between 5:30 and 9:30pm. www.novahtl.com
BUKIT BINTANG Radius International Hotel Sz
51A Changkat Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, 50200 Tel (03) 2715-3888 Fax (03) 2715-1888 Rooms 433 Map 5 B2
This is one of the citys modest international hotels with reasonable facilities. lt is popular with tourist groups and
budget travelers because of its proximity to Bukit Bintang and Jalan Alors food hawkers. The premier floor offers
special services such as cable TV and in-room Internet access. www.radius-international.com
BUKIT BINTANG Capitol Hotel z
Jalan Bulan, Kuala Lumpur, 55100 Tel (03) 2143-7000 Fax (03) 2143-0000 Rooms 225 Map 5 C3
In the thick of Kuala Lumpurs busy shopping district is the Hotel Capitol. With contemporary decor and well-
ventilated rooms, it offers facilities of international standards, at reasonable tariffs. Guests have access to the pool
at the adjoining Federal Hotel. www.fhihotels.com
BUKIT BINTANG The Federal Kuala Lumpur Sz7
Enjoying an excellent location along busy Bukit Bintang, this is among the citys oldest hotels and still retains a
strong appeal especially for those interested in the hotels 50-year heritage. The Mandarin Palace offers ornately-
carved wooden features and fine dim sum. www.fhihotels.com
BUKIT BINTANG Swiss-Garden Hotel Kuala Lumpur :Sz
117 Jalan Pudu, Kuala Lumpur, 55100 Tel (03) 2141-3333 Fax (03) 2141-5555 Rooms 310 Map 5 B3
The hotel, located equidistant from Chinatown, Times Square, and Bukit Bintang, is remarkably peaceful with well-
appointed rooms. Broadband Internet access is available for an additional fee. The Samsara Spa offers a tranquil
retreat, while the Blue Chip Bar livens up the atmosphere in the evenings. www.swissgarden.com
Key to Symbols see back cover flap

BUKIT BINTANG The Royale Bintang Kuala Lumpur Sz7
Tucked away in the quieter recesses of Kuala Lumpurs busy shopping precinct, this hotel offers contemporary
facilities. The rooms are well-equipped, with facilities such as in-room Internet and double-glazed windows.
There is a club floor for executive guests. www.royale-bintang-hotel.com.my
BUKIT BINTANG JW Marriott Hotel Kuala Lumpur Sz7
The JW Marriott is an incredibly well-located luxury hotel in the middle of the bustling Bintang Walk. The classic
rooms exude comfort and convenience. Its chic Third Floor restaurant (see p298) is a gourmets paradise serving
an array of international cuisines with a hint of Asian flavors. www.ytlhotels.com
BUKIT BINTANG The Ritz-Carlton Sz
168 Jalan Imbi, Kuala Lumpur, 55100 Tell (03) 2142-8000 Fax (03) 2143-8080 Rooms 248 Map 5 C3
This is Kuala Lumpurs first boutique hotel with a retro European club-like ambience and an emphasis on discreet
personalized service, including a 24-hour butler service. Its well-equipped Spa Village is an urban oasis and the
hotels Li Yen Chinese restaurant is superb. www.ritzcarlton.com
BUKIT BINTANG The Westin Kuala Lumpur S:z7
The pulsating Bintang Walk is home to the Westin Kuala Lumpur, one of the citys trendiest hotels. The decor is
stylish and the all-white signature beds are ideal for a good nights sleep. Several chic restaurants, including Eest
(see p298), and bars serve a range of the worlds finest cuisines. www.westin.com/kualalumpur
CHINATOWN Ancasa Hotel :z7
Jalan Cheng Lock, Kuala Lumpur, 50768 Tel & Fax (03) 2026-8322 Rooms 300 Map 4 F3
Formerly known as Impiana Hotel Kuala Lumpur, the Ancasa Hotel is ideal for budget travelers who arrive at Puduraya
Bus Station, which is within walking distance of the hotel. It is located just around the corner from Chinatowns
bargain streetside shops and eateries. The in-house Sesame Fun Bar is a great place to unwind. www.udaancasa.com
CHINATOWN Hotel Malaya Kuala Lumpur z
Jalan Hang Lekir, Kuala Lumpur, 50000 Tel (03) 2072-7722 Fax (03) 2070-0980 Rooms 238
Strategically located in the middle of Kuala Lumpurs Chinatown, Hotel Malaya is a popular choice with international
budget travelers seeking shopping and dining bargains. The rooms have been recently refurbished and are well-
equipped. Easy access to most intra-city public transport adds to its appeal. www.hotelmalaya.com.my
CHINATOWN Swiss-Inn Kuala Lumpur z
62 Jalan Sultan, Kuala Lumpur, 50000 Tel (03) 2072-3333 Fax (03) 2031-7799 Rooms 110 Map 4 F3
Providing comfortable accommodations in the thick of all the Chinatown action, this hotel is small but well-equipped
and offers good value for money. However, not all the rooms have windows and some feel a bit cramped. Its
Terrace Caf has great views of Chinatowns streetlife. www.swissgarden.com
CHOW
W KIT Cititel Express S:z
Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, Kuala Lumpur, 50100 Tel (03) 2691-9833 Fax (03) 2691-9839 Rooms 168 Map 1 B3
For those fascinated by local streetlife, the former Stanford Hotel, now called the Cititel Express, located near Chow
Kit is ideal. The rooms are well-equipped and prices are reasonable. The Terrace Coffeeshop of Cititel Express serves
good food. The nearby Chow Kit monorail station provides access to other parts of the city. www.cititelexpress.com
CHOW
W KIT Hotel Grand Continental S:z
Jalan Raja Laut, Kuala Lumpur, 50350 Tel (03) 2693-9333 Fax (03) 2694-8429 Rooms 194 Map 1 A3
Although some distance away from the city center, this hotel is located conveniently close to the Putra World
Trade Center as well as to monorail and LRT stations, offering easy access to the rest of the city. The hotel has
a mini-gym for guests. www.ghihotels.com
CHOW KIT Quality Hotel City Center S:z7
Jalan Raja Laut, Kuala Lumpur, 50750 Tel (03) 2693-9233 Fax (03) 2693-9634 Rooms 250 Map 1 A3
Strategically located near Central Market and Little India, this was once one of the citys finest accommodations.
The rooms are clean and comfortable with warm, welcoming tones. The Quality Club Floor has been recently
refurbished. www.quality.com.my
CHOW KIT Best Western Premier Seri Pacific Kuala Lumpur S:z7
Jalan Putra, Kuala Lumpur, 50746 Tel (03) 4042-5555 Fax (03) 4041-7236 Rooms 556 Map 1 A2
Situated adjacent to the Putra World Trade Center, this lavish luxury hotel was once the Pan Pacific. Stylishly fur-
nished, it has several restaurants and facilities such as a pool and gym. The hotel is close to various transport
hubs and located next to a shopping mall and business center. www.seripacific.com
CHOW KIT Sheraton Imperial Kuala Lumpur S:z7
Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, 50250 Tel (03) 2717-9900 Fax (03) 2717-9999 Rooms 398 Map 1 A4
Beautifully decorated, this hotel is a member of the elite Sheraton Luxury Collection. The rooms are plush and fully-
equipped with modern amenities, and the spa is a haven of relaxation and rejuvenation. The hotels Celestial Court
restaurant (see p299) has fabulous Chinese food. www.luxurycollection.com/kualalumpur
DAMANSARA The Royale Bintang Damansara Sz7
6 Jalan PJU 7/3, Petaling Jaya, Selangor, 47800 Tel (03) 7843-1111 Fax (03) 7843-1122 Rooms 145
This is one of several hotels in the city attached to a shopping mall called the Curve. Among the suburban shopping
delights are furniture outlets such as IKEA and bookstores such as Borders. Visitors can enjoy a drink in the hotels
dramatic Mystery Bar and Caf or unwind by the poolside. www.royale-bintang-hotel.com.my
GOLDEN TRIANGLE Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur S:z7
2 Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, 50250 Tel (03) 2144-2200 Fax (03) 2144-1628 Rooms 570 Map 1 A4
A modern hotel, conveniently located in the Golden Triangle, the Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur is within walking
distance of the citys major attractions. The hotels 24-hour coffeeshop, the Melting Pot Caf, is very popular with
clubbers and party-hoppers, and the famous Hard Rock Caf is next door. www.concorde.net
GOLDEN TRIANGLE Pacific Regency Hotel Apartments S:z7
Jalan Punchak, Kuala Lumpur, 50250 Tel (03) 2332-7777 Fax (03) 2381-2085 Rooms 153 Map 5 B1
This is one of a growing number of service apartment properties near Kuala Lumpurs business district. The rooms are
spacious and include full kitchens, dining and lounge areas, home entertainment systems, and Internet access. There is
a fabulous Thai restaurant and a chic rooftop bar with a spectacular view of the cityscape. www.pacific-regency.com
GOLDEN TRIANGLE Parkroyal Kuala Lumpur Sz
Set back from the busy Bintang Walk, this hotel is a quiet retreat and exudes warm comfort. Recent renovations
have given it a contemporary appeal. Chatz Brasserie and the hotels Chinese restaurant, Si Chuan Dou Hua, are
atmospheric. Adjoining the hotel is an Irish pub, ideal for a cool ale. www.parkroyalhotels.com
GOLDEN TRIANGLE Renaissance Kuala Lumpur Hotel S:z7
Corner of Jalan Sultan Ismail and Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Tel (03) 2162-2233 Rooms 921 Map 1 A4
The hotel complex has two wings, a West Wing tastefully furnished with contemporary facilities at affordable rates,
and an East Wing exuding opulence. It is well-equipped with an Olympic-sized swimming pool, 24-hour gym, Dynasty
restaurant (see p299), Med@Marche (see p300), and a European-style club. www.renaissance-kul.com
GOLDEN TRIANGLE Crowne Plaza Kuala Lumpur S:z
Originally the Hilton Kuala Lumpur, this hotel has been recently rebranded and renovated. The rooms are stylish
although somewhat noisy. The hotel offers an array of food and beverage outlets such as the immensely popular
Ishq (see p299). Limited shopping facilities are also available within the hotel premises. www.crowneplaza.com
GOLDEN TRIANGLE Hotel Equatorial Kuala Lumpur S:z7
Part of a well-established regional chain of business hotels, the hotel is well-situated and offers state-of-the-art
facilities and specially designed rooms for the physically impaired. A pre-dinner drink at Flo, the hotels chic bar,
can be followed by a sumptuous dinner at Chalet (see p299) or the Golden Phoenix. www.equatorial.com
GOLDEN TRIANGLE Hotel Istana S:z
73 Jalan Raja Chulan, Kuala Lumpur, 50200 Tel (03) 2141-9988 Fax (03) 2141-0111 Rooms 516 Map 4 F2
Convenient for visiting Bukit Bintang, the Moorish-inspired Hotel Istana is located in the middle of the prestigious
Golden Triangle. The hotel has an extravagant lobby and rooms with good views. The recently opened Urban Bistro
serves excellent Mod Oz Australian food and wines. www.hotelistana.com.my
GOLDEN TRIANGLE Novotel Hydro Majestic Kuala Lumpur Sz7
2 Jalan Kia Peng, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Tel (03) 2147-0888 Fax (03) 2147-0889 Rooms 291 Map 6 D1
This hotel is relatively new and within easy reach of the Kuala Lumpur Convention Center and the Raja Chulan
monorail stop. Although well-provided with facilities, such as broadband Internet, the rooms are often small. The
hotels restaurant, Qing Zhen, serves Chinese-Muslim cuisine. www.novotel-asia.com
GOMBAK Jungle Lodge S:z7
Jalan Gombak, Batu Caves 52100 Tel & Fax (03) 6187-0840 Rooms 6
For a tryst with adventure, the Jungle Lodge on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur is a suitable choice. Built by Asia Overland
Services, a leading inbound tour operator, it is more for corporate training and kids camps but individual travelers are
welcome. The cabin-style accommodations are comfortable with basic amenities. www.summercamp.com.my
KLCC Corus Hotels S:z7
Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Tel (03) 2161-8888 Fax (03) 2161-2393 Rooms 378 Map 1 C5
One of the citys oldest premier hotels, this was formerly called the Ming Court Vista. The rooms are well-appointed
with contemporary decor and modern facilities. The hotel also has restaurants serving Chinese and Japanese food.
The Hainanese chicken rice served in the Dondang Sayang Coffeehouse is fabulous. www.corushotelkl.com
KLCC Hotel Nikko Kuala Lumpur S:z7
165 Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Tel (03) 2161-1111 Fax (03) 2161-1122 Rooms 470 Map 1 C5
This is a charming hotel with a well-heeled international clientele. Business guests feel at home in the 26th-floor
Executive Club, and leisure travelers can relax by the pool or be pampered in the spa. Bentleys Pub and Benkay
Japanese Restaurant entice guests to dine in-house. www.hotelnikko.com.my
Key to Price Guide see p272 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
KLCC MiCasa All Suite Hotel S:z7
368B Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur, 50400 Tel (03) 2179-8000 Fax (03) 2161-1186 Rooms 242 Map 1 A1
This is one of the best serviced apartment properties in the city. The rooms are ideal for long-term stays or for fami-
lies as there are facilities to prepare light meals. However, guests will be tempted to dine at Cilantro (see p300), one
of the citys leading restaurants and the sports bar, Tapas, both within the hotel premises. www.micasahotel.com
KLCC Ascott Kuala Lumpur S:z7
9 Jalan Pinang, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Tel (03) 2142-6868 Fax (03) 2142-9888 Rooms 225 Map 2 F5
A cluster of sophisticated service apartments of up to three bedrooms, ideal for long-stay guests. The views of the
Petronas Towers from the pool on the 22nd floor are unbeatable. The Ascott offers luxuriously furnished modern
rooms, with fully-stocked kitchens and home entertainment systems. www.theascottkualalumpur.com
KLCC Hotel Maya Kuala Lumpur S:z7
138 Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Tel (03) 2711-8866 Fax (03) 2711-9966 Rooms 206 Map 1 C5
A boutique resort, with a well-provided and relaxing spa, helps visitors staying in the hotel feel distanced from the
stresses of urban life. The rooms are Bohemian in their decor. The hotels Still Waters Restaurant (see p300)
specializes in Japanese cuisine infused with European flavors. www.hotelmaya.com.my
KLCC Mandarin Oriental S:z7
Kuala Lumpur City Center, Kuala Lumpur, 50088 Tel (03) 2380-8888 Fax (03) 2380-8833 Rooms 643 Map 2 F5
Located close to the Petronas Towers and boasting a spacious club floor, this ultra-chic hotel is popular with business
travelers. Leisure guests are equally well served with an infinity pool that appears to flow into the KLCC parklands.
The hotels Li Po Heen restaurant (see p300) specializes in Chinese delicacies. www.mandarinoriental.com
KLCC Traders Hotel S : z 7
Kuala Lumpur City Center, Kuala Lumpur, 50088 Tel (03) 2332-9888 Fax (03) 2332-2666 Rooms 571 Map 2 F5
Well-situated in KLCC, Traders Hotel is the epitome of discreet elegance. It belongs to the citys new generation of
technology-savvy hotels offering the latest hotel gadgetry. The Sky Bar on the hotels roof at Level 33 has stunning
views of the cityscape. The KLCC parklands at the hotels doorstep offer jogging tracks. www.tradershotels.com
PETALIN
T G JAYA Eastin Hotel S:z
13 Jalan 16/11, Selangor, 46350 Tel (03) 7665-1111 Fax (03) 7665-9999 Rooms 388
The Eastin Hotel has won several awards as Malaysias best four-star business hotel and its prime location in the
suburbs of Kuala Lumpur in a commercial complex gives the hotel a competitive edge. Some rooms overlook a
picturesque golf course. The in-house restaurant serves exquisite Cantonese cuisine. www.eastin.com
PETALIN
T G JAYA Pyramid Suites and Studios Sz7
Persiaran Lagoon, Bandar Sunway, Selangor, 46150 Tel (03) 7492-8000 Fax (03) 7492-8001 Rooms 764
This smart, seamlessly designed hotel is part of an integrated complex of hotels, theme park, restaurants, ice-skating
rink, and shopping mall. Removed from the city center, it is popular with families as there is literally something for
everyone. The rooms are simple, with modern self-contained facilities. www.kl-hotels.com/sunway
SENTRAL YMCA Kuala Lumpur :z7
95 Jalan Padang Belia, Kuala Lumpur, 50470 Tel (03) 2274-1439 Fax (03) 2274-0559 Rooms 58 Map 4 D5
The YMCA offers simple, basic, but clean rooms with either attached or communal bathrooms to accommodate
individuals, families, or groups. The tariffs are inclusive of breakfast and there are extensive sporting facilities. The
LRT Stesen Sentral and the monorail station are both accessible. www.ymcakl.com
SENTRAL Hilton Kuala Lumpur S:z7
3 Jalan Stesen Sentral, Kuala Lumpur, 50470 Tel & Fax (03) 2264-2266 Rooms 510 Map 3 C5
The dazzling new Hilton Kuala Lumpur has made a striking impression on travelers as well as locals. The rooms are
contemporary and the showers come with their own mini TV. Its restaurants are among Kuala Lumpurs most popular
venues. The LRT Stesen Sentral and the express rail link to KLIA are close by. www.kuala-lumpur.hilton.com
SUBANG JAYA Sheraton Subang Hotel and Towers S:z7
Jalan SS12/1, Subang Jaya, Selangor, 47500 Tel (03) 5031-6060 Fax (03) 5031-9446 Rooms 502
This is an excellent suburban hotel situated in a quiet area. There are some good meal options, and The Emperor, one
of the citys finest Cantonese eateries (see p301), is within the hotel premises. There is a free shuttle bus service to
shops, transport nodes, and the Sunway Lagoon (see p321). www.sheraton.com
T K PERDANA Heritage Station Hotel Kuala Lumpur

TASI z
Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin, Kuala Lumpur, 50050 Tel (03) 2273-5588 Fax (03) 2273-7566 Rooms 160 Map 4 E4
Housed in the Moorish-style Kuala Lumpur Railway Station (see p65), this hotel has an exotic charm. Day rooms are
available for those awaiting trains. The ground-floor restaurant Charlis, serves delicious meals at reasonable prices.
The hotel is an excellent bargain in terms of functionality. www.heritagehotelmalaysia.com
T K PERDANA Carcosa Seri Negara

TASI Sz
Jalan Mahameru, Kuala Lumpur, 50480 Tel (03) 2295-0888 Fax (03) 2282-7888 Rooms 13 Map 3 B3
Standing in manicured grounds, this boutique property (see p67) offers discreet accommodations for heritage-lovers
as well as the elite, with Queen Elizabeth having stayed here in 1989. Refined elegance best describes the rooms.
The hotels plush Dining Room (see p301) has won several awards. www.carcosa.com.my
NORTHWEST PENINSULA
ALOR STAR Holiday Villa S:z7
Jalan Tunku Ibrahim, 05000 Tel (04) 734-9999 Fax (04) 734-1199 Rooms 160
The tastefully furnished Holiday Villa is a business hotel with a great range of facilities including a gymnasium,
Jacuzzi, sauna, spa, a business center, and two restaurants. The hotel also has a bowling alley and karaoke lounge.
The rooms are immaculate and have cable TV and minibars. www.holidayvillaalorstar.com
CAMERON HIGHLANDS The Balas Holiday Chalet :z7
Lot 55, Tanah Ratah , 03900 Tel (05) 491-1660 Fax (05) 491-4500 Rooms 30
Set in one of the oldest mock-Tudor buildings in the Cameron Highlands, this chalet retains its colonial country
charm. The small rooms are neat and cozy. The hotels British-Indian restaurant specializes in curries and afternoon
cream teas with strawberry jam and scones. There is also a decent library for residents. www.balaschalet.com
CAMERON HIGLANDS Ye Olde Smokehouse :z7
Jalan Jeriau, 49000 Tel (05) 491-1215 Fax (05) 491-1214 Rooms 13
Perhaps the most celebrated of all Malaysias hill station colonial-style hotels, Ye Olde Smokehouse has a classic
appeal, consciously striving to be as British as possible. Residents can enjoy a drink by the fireplace in the
well-appointed bar or sample traditional English cuisine at the in-house restaurant (see p302).
FRASERS HILL Frasers Pine Resort :z
Jalan Pecah Batu, 49000 Tel (09) 362-2122 Fax (09) 362-2288 Rooms 132
Attractively placed amid lush pine forests, this large, well-appointed apartment hotel offers a range of facilities
from satellite TV, minibar, medical care, dry cleaning, laundry, and currency exchange to creche services for
families with children. There are banqueting and business rooms, as well as a restaurant and coffee shop.
GENTING HIGHLANDS Resort Hotel Genting Highlands S:z7
Pahang Darul Makmur, 69000 Tel (03) 2070-8667 Fax (03) 2031-9698 Rooms 838
Amid the cool comfort of nature, the Resort Hotel Genting Highlands is a massive luxury hotel. It offers every facility
on a visitors wish list, from in-house movie channels to non-smoking rooms. It also has handicapped facilities,
Internet access, and restaurants. It is advisable to book in advance.
IPOH Grand View Hotel z7
36, Jalan Horley, 30300 Tel (05) 243-1488 Fax (05) 243-1811 Rooms 62
This is a reasonably priced, clean, and conveniently located hotel catering mainly to business class travelers. All
rooms have a television set and minibar. It is usually possible to negotiate a discount on room prices. A car rental
service is available in the hotels lobby.
IPOH Majestic Station Hotel z7
Jalan Panglima, 30000 Tel (05) 255-2605 Fax (05) 255-3393 Rooms 100
This quaint heritage hotel designed in Moorish style is set in the splendid colonial-era building of the Ipoh Railway
Station. There is a wide range of rooms, all of which have cable TV as well as a minibar. The hotel also has a coffee
shop and restaurant. www.majesticstationhotel.com
KUALA KANGSAR Rumah Rehat Kuala Kangsar z
Bukit Chandan, 33000 Tel (05) 776-3872 Rooms 17

Sprawling across parklands by the Bukit Chandan, this hotel is situated on the banks of Sungai Perak. It is a pleasant
Malay rumah rehat, or resthouse. The large, well-appointed rooms are clean with en suite bathrooms. It also has a
good Malay restaurant set on a riverside terrace.
KUALA SELANGOR De Palma Inn z
Jalan Tanjung Keramat, 45000 Tel (03) 3289-7070 Fax (03) 3289-7080 Rooms 48
Set amid lush surroundings, the De Palma Inn offers chalet accommodations with modern facilities and comfort.
All rooms have air conditioning, color TVs, coffee- and tea-making facilities, and minibars. It also has a swimming
pool and tennis court. Boating, camping, and fishing trips can be arranged by the hotel.
MAXWELL HILL Bukit Larut Guesthouse
Bukit Larut Guesthouse, 34000 Tel (05) 807-7241 Rooms 21

Always full during school and public holidays, these comfortable bungalows have pleasant gardens for picnics.
The Bukit Larut Guesthouse is fully equipped with cooking facilities, but simple meals are available on request.
As the hotel is very popular among locals, be sure to book in advance.
PENANG Golden Plaza Hostel z
Lebuh Acheh, Georgetown, 10200 Tel (04) 263-0560 Fax (04) 263-2388 Rooms 20
A long-time budget traveler favorite, the Golden Plaza Hotel offers friendly services at reasonable rates. The rooms
are clean and well-appointed. Its restaurant serves Western and local cuisine. There is a laundry service, free locker
facilities, and a useful information and onward travel service.
PENANG Bayview Hotel S:z7
25A Lebuh Farquhar, Georgetown, 10200 Tel (04) 263-3161 Fax (04) 263-4124 Rooms 320
This high-rise hotel (see p105) is reasonably priced for the elegant facilities offered. Among the several restaurants
on the premises is a revolving rooftop dining area with stunning views across Georgetown. Its services include a
gymnasium, spa, hair salon, shopping complex, pharmacy, business center, and wireless broadband Internet access.
PENANG Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion z
Lebuh Leith, Georgetown, 10200 Tel (04) 262-0006 Fax (04) 262-5289 Rooms 16
The prestigious Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion (see p105) is a homestay heritage hotel, as well as Georgetowns prime
historical attraction. Furnished with antiques, the individually designed suites cluster around five distinct and airy
courtyards. Personal butler services are available. www.cheongfatttzemansion.com
PENANG Lone Pine Hotel S:z
Batu Ferringhi, 11100 Tel (04) 881-1511 Fax (04) 881-1282 Rooms 97
Batu Ferringhis oldest hotel, the Lone Pine Hotel is most distinguished and offers fine views across the Strait of
Malacca. The hotels emphasis is on elegance and colonial charm. It is adequately provided with all essential
amenities such as an in-house Chinese restaurant specializing in Hainanese cuisine. www.lonepinehotel.com
PENANG Eastern and Oriental Hotel S:z7
10 Lebuh Farquhar, Georgetown, 10200 Tel (04) 222-2000 Fax (04) 261-6333 Rooms 101
The grandest hotel in Penang and perhaps in all of Malaysia, the Eastern and Oriental (see p105) is a historic site in
Georgetown. Lavishly decorated, the E&O has plush rooms and also offers a 24-hour private butler service. There
are six separate bars and restaurants serving Malay, Chinese, Indian, and Western cuisine. www.e-o-hotel.com
PENANG Shangri-Las Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa S:z7
Batu Ferringhi Beach, 11100 Tel (04) 888-8888 Fax (04) 881-1800 Rooms 304
This is a plush resort at the northern end of Batu Ferringhi nestled between the sea and emerald hills. The hotels
restaurants and bars offer Southeast Asian cuisine as well as international fare. A lavish spa, large wine cellar, and
cigar humidor rounds off the luxury. www.shangri-la.com/penang/rasasayang/en
PULAU LANGKAWI City Bayview Hotel S:z7
Pusat Bandar Kuah, 07000 Tel (04) 966-1818 Fax (04) 966-3888 Rooms 282
Set against a backdrop of glimmering seas, the City Bayview Hotel is the largest and best hotel in Langkawis modest
capital Kuah. It is the best choice for visitors who use Kuah as a stopover before heading for the islands beaches.
Facilities on offer balance leisure with entertainment and a grand ballroom is the hotels highlight.
PULAU LANGKAWI The Frangipani Resort and Spa S:z7
Jalan Teluk Baru, Pantai Tengah, 07100 Tel (04) 952-0000 Fax (04) 952-0001 Rooms 117
Formerly known as the Langkawi Village Resort, The Frangipani Resort and Spa is a friendly and small family
resort. Located across a fine strip of golden beachfront at Pantai Tengah, the hotel has recently been refurbished.
Accommodations are in isolated bungalows set in tropical gardens and offer excellent facilities.
PULAU LANGKAWI Beach Garden Resort Sz
Pantai Cenang, 07000 Tel (04) 955-1363 Fax (04) 955-1221 Rooms 12
A German-managed resort, doubling as a bistro and a beer garden, Beach Garden Resort also has a restaurant
serving dishes of international quality. Imported German beers feature prominently at the bar. The hotel offers
lovely views across the Andaman Sea. www.beachgardenresort.com
PULAU LANGKAWI Meritus Pelangi Beach Resort and Spa S:z7
Pantai Cenang, 07000 Tel (04) 952-8888 Fax (04) 952-8899 Rooms 350
Styled as a Malay village, the Meritus Pelangi Beach Resort and Spa offers fantastic beachside views. The hotel
has well-appointed rooms, excellent facilities, and restaurants serving Malay, Chinese, Thai, and Western fare.
There are babysitting services and a special Kiki club for children. www.pelangibeachresort.com
PULAU PANGKOR Nipah Bay Villa S:z
Teluk Nipah, 32300 Tel (05) 685-2198 Fax (05) 685-2386 Rooms 16
Relaxed and homely chalet-style accommodations with friendly services; perfect for a laid-back stay. Its restaurant
serves Malay and Western dishes. Buffet lunches are available and barbecues can be organized on request. The hotel
offers a number of different tours of Pangkor Island as well as jungle trekking trips. www.pulau-pangkor.com
PULAU PANGKOR Pangkor Island Beach Resort S:z7
Teluk Belanga, 32300 Tel (05) 685-1091 Fax (05) 685-1852 Rooms 240
Formerly known as Pan Pacific Resort, this is a luxurious hotel set on Pangkors Golden Sands Bay. Just about every
facility is available including shopping, emergency medical care, and a business center. In addition there are good
restaurants as well as volleyball and tennis courts, and an eight-hole golf course. www.pangkorislandbeach.com
T
TAIPING Panorama Hotel :z
6179 Jalan Kota, 34000 Tel (05) 808-4111 Fax (05) 808-4129 Rooms 79
This is a well-furnished business hotel in the heart of Taiping. All rooms have attached bathrooms, cable TV,
minibar, and coffee-making facilities. The hotels conference center is spacious and there is a good restaurant
serving Malay and Western dishes. There is also an in-house supermarket. www.pinganchorage.com.my
SOUTHERN PENINSULA
DESARU Golden Beach Hotel S:z7
Desaru, 81907 Tel (07) 822-1101 Fax (07) 822-1480 Rooms 220
This sprawling beach resort is especially popular with families and has a variety of accommodation options ranging
from standard rooms to garden villas and large suites. The recreational options include a fantastic swimming pool
and a cocktail lounge. The hotel is attached to the nearby Desaru Golf & Country Resort. www.desaruresort.com
DESARU The Pulai S:z7
Desaru, 81900 Tel (07) 822-2222 Fax (07) 822-2223 Rooms 200
Occupying an uninterrupted stretch of pristine beachfront, The Pulai is an award-winning resort. The rooms are
bright and spacious, and all have private balconies with great views. There is also a spa and a Kids Club. The hotel
offers a wide choice of activities such as waterskiing, jet skiing, snorkeling, and diving. www.thepulai.com.my
JOHOR BAHRU A Vista Melati z
16 Jalan Station, 80000 Tel (07) 222-2888 Fax (07) 224-9292 Rooms 119
Located in the heart of Johor Bahrus Central Business District, this hotel is within easy reach of the major shopping
malls and eateries, making it an option for budget travelers. The rooms are plain and simply furnished but well main-
tained, and all have private bathrooms. Free daily newspapers are provided. www.avistamelatihotel-johorbahru.com
JOHOR BAHRU Hotel Selesa S:z
Corner of Jalan Tebrau and Jalan Dato, 80300 Tel (07) 332-3999 Fax 07) 332-1999 Rooms 288
A soaring four-star business hotel, Hotel Selesa is the tallest in Johor Bahru and offers stunning views of the city.
The rooms are spacious and attractively furnished. The excellent amenities include a pool, gym, and a cocktail
lounge. It is within walking distance of several malls. www.johorhotels.com
JOHOR BAHRU New York Hotel Sz7
22 Jalan Dato Abdullah Tahir, 80300 Tel (07) 331-1588 Fax (07) 331-8588 Rooms 413
Situated opposite the busy Plaza Pelangi shopping mall, this towering glassy hotel is a chic place with great facilities.
The rooms come with coffee-making facilities and a minibar. There are a few decent restaurants, nightclubs, and
bistros as well as a small indoor pool on-site.
JOHOR BAHRU Grand Blue Wave Hotel S:z7
9R Jalan Bukit Meldrum, 80300 Tel (07) 221-6666 Fax (07) 222-9473 Rooms 184
This all-suite hotel is perfectly placed for exploring both Johor Bahru and Singapore and offers long-stay deals.
Studios as well as one and two-bedroom apartments are available, all fitted with kitchens, refrigerators, and TVs.
There are some great restaurants and also a pool, squash court, gym, and sauna. www.bluewavehotels.com
MALACCA The Baba House z
125-127 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, 75200 Tel (06) 281-1216 Fax (06) 281-1217 Rooms 82
Situated in the heart of Chinatown this elegant Baba Nonya mansion has been restored and converted into an
attractive and reasonably priced boutique hotel. There are some beautiful original wooden screens and tilework in
the hotel. The simple rooms have private bathrooms. www.melaka.net/babahouse
MALACCA Heeren Inn z
23 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, 75200 Tel & Fax (06) 288-3600 Rooms 6
This historic house overlooks the riverfront and is ideally situated for exploring Chinatown. Dating back to the 18th
century, the Heeren Inn has been modernized and offers small but neat and tidy rooms with river views. There is a
caf and courtyard garden. Sizeable discounts are often available. www.melaka.net/heerenhouse
MALACCA Hotel Puri :z
118 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, 75200 Tel & Fax (06) 282-5588 Rooms 50
Built in the 1870s, this traditional Baba Nonya townhouse has been carefully restored and retains its original features
such as the elaborate stucco faade and mosaic-tiled floors. The rooms are pleasant and comfortable, while the
suites are more stylishly designed. www.hotelpuri.com
MALACCA The City Bayview Hotel S:z7
Jalan Bendahara, 75100 Tel (06) 283-9888 Fax (06) 283-6699 Rooms 192
Located north of the city center next to the historic St. Peters Church, this international chain hotel offers comfort
and excellent services. The large rooms are furnished in contemporary style with televisions and minibars, while the
luxury suites come with kitchens and Jacuzzis. The lounge features live music every night. www.bayviewintl.com
MALACCA Renaissance Melaka Hotel S:z7
Jalan Bendahara, 75100 Tel (06) 284-8888 Fax (06) 284-9269 Rooms 300
This towering 24-story hotel seamlessly blends old-world charm with modernity. The rooms are spacious and the
plushest in town offering views of the Strait of Malacca. There are excellent restaurants such as the Capers Restaurant
(see p304), an English-style bar. There is a helpful concierge service. http://marriot.com
MERSING Hotel Timotel z

839 Jalan Endau, 86800 Tel (07) 799-5888 Fax (07) 799-5333 Rooms 44
The Timotel Hotel is one of the better mid-range hotels in central Mersing, offering simple but adequate rooms.
It is a quiet place just across the bridge on the northern side of the River Mersing, and is a 10-minute walk from
the town center. There is a decent in-house caf and pub. www.timotel.com.my
MUAR Hotel Sri Pelangi :z

79 Jalan Sisi, 84000 Tel (06) 951-8088 Fax (06) 952-2786 Rooms 82
A trendy hotel providing mid-range comforts at a reasonable price. There are also a couple of bigger suites on
offer. Children under 12 years can stay free of charge in their parents room. The on-site Galaxy Lounge is one of
the hottest night spots in Muar, with regular live band performances. www.sripelangi.com
PORT DICKSON Corus Paradise Resort S:z7

Jalan Pantai, 71000 Tel (06) 647-7600 Fax (06) 647-7630 Rooms 201
This resort hotel occupies a prime beachfront location, south of Port Dickson. The rooms are spacious and stylishly
furnished. The facilities include tennis courts, a large pool, and gym. It caters especially well for children, having a
separate kids pool, playground, and free stays for children under 12 years. www.corusparadisepd.com
PULAU BESAR Aseania Resort S:z

Pulau Besar, Johor Tel (07) 797-0059 Fax (07) 799-1413 Rooms 49
This resort, located on the west coast of the island, is a cluster of identical wooden chalets with a kampung
ambience. All the chalets have twin beds, hot showers, and verandas and a choice of either sea or jungle view, and
the price varies accordingly. There is an outdoor pool and Jacuzzi, as well as a restaurant. www.pulaubesar.net
PULAU RAW
AWA Rawa Safaris Island Resort :z

Pulau Rawa, 86800 Tel (07) 799-1204 Fax (07) 799-3848 Rooms 72
The only resort on this tiny island, Rawa Safaris Island Resort offers a range of huts, chalets, and suites across
different price ranges. While the better accommodations are perched on the beach, all rooms have bathrooms and
balconies. The charges are inclusive of overnight stay and return ferry from Mersing. www.rawasfr.com
PULAU SIBU Sea Gypsy Village Resort :

Pulau Sibu, 86800 Tel (07) 222-8642 Fax (07) 221-0048 Rooms 28
Set in a jungle clearing just off a dazzling beach, this tranquil eco-friendly resort has 22 traditional wooden chalets
and six backpacker huts with basic facilities. It is family-run and offers a basic diving center, Kids Club, and a range
of water sports. The price includes meals and return ferry from Johor. www.siburesort.com
PULAU TIOMAN Panuba Inn :z
Kampung Panuba, 86800 Tel (09) 777-9865 Fax (09) 419-1092 Rooms 30
Located in an isolated bay on the northwest coast of the island, Panuba Inn is a peaceful spot that is popular among
divers and accessible only by boat. Guests can pick from chalets ranging from fan-cooled huts to those with air
conditioning, hot showers, and refrigerators. All accommodations have sea-facing balconies. www.panubainn.com
PULAU TIOMAN Puteri Salang Inn z
Salang Tel (13) 788-0075 Rooms 12

One of the cheaper options in Salang, this quiet inn has a clutch of wooden huts set in an isolated jungle clearing
a short walk from the beach. The huts are either fan-cooled or air-conditioned and they all have mosquito nets and
private showers. The Puteri Salang Inn offers atmospheric accommodations, perfect for wildlife watching.
PULAU TIOMAN Berjaya Tioman Beach, Golf and Spa Resort S:z7

Tekek, 86807 Tel (09) 419-1000 Fax (09) 419-1718 Rooms 96

This is the only luxury resort on Tioman and offers an array of airy studios and suites with kitchenettes. This resort
has its own spa, 18-hole golf course, dive center, and tennis courts, all set on well-tended grounds near the beach.
Discounts and special packages are also available. www.berjayaresort.com
SEREMBAN Hotel Seri Malaysia Sz

Jalan Sungai Ujong, 70200 Tel (06) 764-4181 Fax (06) 764-4179 Rooms 49
This dependable nationwide chain is a popular choice as it offers standard comfort at affordable rates. The hotel
has an interesting Minangkabau-style roof and comfortable rooms. Though slightly away from the city center, Hotel
Seri Malaysia is conveniently placed to visit the Muzium Negeri. www.serimalaysia.com.my
SEREMBAN Royal Adelphi Hotel S:z7

Jalan Dato AS Dawood, 70100 Tel (06) 766-6666 Fax (06) 766-6000 Rooms 345
On the edge of the idyllic Lake Gardens, this five-star hotel promises a rejuvenating experience. The rooms are
spacious and attractively furnished. Facilities include a swimming pool, tennis court, and the popular Han Pi Yuen
Restaurant (see p304). Being close to the city center, it is popular with business travelers. www.royaladelphi.com
SEREMBAN Allson Klana Resort S:z7

Jalan Penghulu Cantik, 70100 Tel (06) 762-7888 Fax (06) 767-7788 Rooms 228
A haven of tranquility, this hotel is tucked away on the far edge of the Lake Gardens. The rooms on offer include
private two- and three-bedroom condominiums with balconies. There are basketball and tennis courts and a huge
lagoon-style pool, as well as a chic Japanese restaurant, Yuri (see p304). www.allsonklana.com.my
EASTERN AND CENTRAL PENINSULA
CHEMPEDAK Hillview Hotel z
Teluk Chempadak, 25050 Tel (09) 567-0600 Rooms 45

This budget hotel with basic facilities is almost the only option in Chempedak. A small in-house coffeeshop serves
breakfast and snacks, but there is easy access to a number of beachside bars and restaurants on Chempedak which
offer delectable seafood, Chinese food, and Malay snacks.
CHEMPEDAK Hyatt Regency Kuantan Resort S : z 7
Teluk Chempadak, 25050 Tel (09) 566-1234 Fax (09) 567-7577 Rooms 330
Styled as a Malay stilt house, this chic resort on the Malaysian east coast boasts stunning views across the South
China Sea. It offers extravagant facilities such as multiple swimming pools, tennis courts, squash courts, and a
choice of stylish Malay and Chinese restaurants. http://kuantan.regency.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels
CHERATING Ranting Resort z
Kampung Budaya Cherating, 26080 Tel (09) 581-9068 Fax (09) 581-9208 Rooms 15
Close to the South China Sea, this is a relaxed Malay kampung-style resort. Accommodation is in chalets set around
lotus ponds. The restaurant serves different local specialties each night. Friendly service makes the Ranting Resort
a good place to relax.
CHERATING The Legend Resort S : z
Mukim Sungai Karang, 26080 Tel (09) 581-9818 Fax (09) 581-9400 Rooms 250
This is a compact resort set amid tropical gardens with great views across the South China Sea. It offers a choice of
restaurants and a remarkable range of activities including tennis, squash, windsurfing, jet skiing, sailing, canoeing,
snorkeling, fishing, and jungle trekking. There is also a stylish swimming pool. www.kl-hotels.com/legend-cherating
KOTA BHARU Crystal Lodge : z 7
Jalan Che Su, 15000 Tel (09) 747-0888 Fax (09) 747-0088 Rooms 50
Located in central Kota Bharu, Crystal Lodge is a friendly and well-maintained hotel offering a wide range of
services. Besides in-room television, broadband Internet, and complimentary daily newspapers, it has a karaoke
bar and mini-cinema hall for entertainment. http://www.crystallodge.com.my
KOTA BHARU Renaissance Kota Bharu Hotel S : z 7
Jalan Sultan Yahya Petra, 15150 Tel (09) 746-2233 Fax (09) 746-1122 Rooms 298
This is the only five-star world-class hotel in the city. All the rooms are spacious, elegantly designed, and stylishly
furnished for ultimate comfort. Rooms include IDD, telephones, high-speed Internet access, voice mail, tea- and
coffee-making facilities, and a well-equipped mini-bar.
KUALA BESUT Bubu Inn S : z
Pasir Panjang, 22300 Tel (09) 690-3080 Fax (09) 697-5080 Rooms 14
This is an excellent mid-range resort for an overnight stay. Usually, a stay at the Bubu Inn is part of a pre-booked diving
package which includes meals. The inn offers activities such as diving, snorkeling, sea-kayaking, and deep-sea fishing.
The hotel serves Malay, Chinese, and Western cuisine, specializing in fresh seafood. www.buburesort.com.my
KUALA DUNGUN T
Tanjong Jara Resort S : z 7
Jalan Dunggun, 23000 Tel (09) 845-1100 Fax (09) 845-1200 Rooms 100
Tastefully furnished, the Tanjong Jara Resorts chalet accommodations are typically Malay. Set in lush tropical gardens,
the resort has panoramic views of the South China Sea and is one of the best hotels in Malaysia. Three restaurants
serve innovative and authentic Malay, Chinese, and international cuisine. www.tanjongjararesort.com
KUALA TERENGGANU Ping Anchorage Travelers Inn z
Jalan Sultan Sulaiman, 20000 Tel (09) 626-2020 Fax (09) 626-2022 Rooms 28
The oldest budget hotel in Kuala Terengganu, the Ping Anchorage Travelers Inn is simple and clean. There is a restaurant
on the first floor and a rooftop beer garden. The management is involved in making bookings and organizing tours
all over Malaysia, so this is a place to book onward travel. www.pinganchorage.com.my/backpacker.htm
KUALA TERENGGANU Primula Beach Resort S:z7
Jalan Persinggahan, 20400 Tel (09) 622-2100 Fax (09) 623-3360 Rooms 249
The Primula Beach Resort is a spacious and well-equipped beachfront hotel on the east side of town. The hotel has
cozy rooms, a large business center, and some excellent restaurants such as the Rhu-Sila Coffee House, which offers
an elaborate international buffet, and the alfresco Pelangi restaurant. http://www.primulaparkroyal.com
KUANTAN Citiview Hotel Kuantan :z7
Jalan Haji Abdul Aziz, 25000 Tel (09) 555-3888 Fax (09) 555-2999 Rooms 90
These spacious, clean, and reasonably priced accommodations in the heart of Kuantan are exceptionally hospitable with
special emphasis on disabled facilities. All rooms have en suite bathrooms, cable TV, and minibars. The facilities include
a well-equipped business center, health center, travel agency, and car hire, as well as a restaurant and coffee shop.
KUANTAN MS Garden Hotel Kuantan S:z7
Lorong Gambut, 25300 Tel (09) 517-7899 Fax (09) 517-7558 Rooms 202
This is a comfortable hotel with Chinese decor including replica terra-cotta warriors in the foyer. It is attached to a
large shopping mall. Its Yuen Yuen Chinese restaurant specializes in Cantonese cuisine and dim sum. The hotel has
the largest pillarless ballroom in east coast Malaysia.
MERANG Hotel Seri Malaysia Sz
Jalan Kampung Paya, 21600 Tel (09) 618-2889 Fax (09) 618-1285 Rooms 47
The Hotel Seri Malaysia offers unsurpassable hospitality and the best rooms, services, and restaurant in town. The
facilities include shopping, traditional massage, and a business center. The hotel also organizes day-trips to nearby
Pulau Kapas, and deep-sea fishing and cruising on the Merang and Terengganu rivers. www.serimalaysia.com.my
MERANG Kembara Resort z
Pantai Peranginan Merang, 21010 Tel (09) 653-1770 Fax (09) 653-1900 Rooms 19
Kembara Resort is a simple and unpretentious establishment with a selection of rooms and air-conditioned chalets which
offer the best value for money in Marang. There are facilities for beach volleyball, football, and bicycle hire. The hotel also
arranges island cruises, river cruises, fishing trips, trekking, and camping. http://kembararesort.tripod.com
PULAU KAPAS Kapas Island Resort Sz
Pulau Kapas Tel (09) 618-1976 Fax (09) 614-4386 Rooms 50

Fashioned as a bungalow, this resort has a mix of air-conditioned and fan-cooled rooms as well as dormitory beds. The
in-house restaurant is a culinary extravaganza featuring local and Western fare, and specializing in seafood. Activities
include water sports such as scuba-diving, sea kayaking, snorkeling, deep sea fishing, and sailing.
PULAU KAPAS Gem Island Resort S:z
Pulau Gemia Tel (09) 669-5910 Fax (09) 772-79661 Rooms 45

This is a luxurious offshore spa and resort set on a privately-owned island. The management offers an all-inclusive
package. The in-house restaurant serves a delectable mix of national and international cuisine. Attractions include a
turtle conservation sanctuary close by. www.gem-travel.com.my/gemisland/
PULAU PERHENTIAN BESAR Paradise Island Resort z
Northwest coast of Perhentian Besar, 22300 Tel (09) 697-4095 Fax (09) 697-8679 Rooms 23
This modest accommodation has clean rooms and basic facilities and is good value for money. The only television
set on the resort is at the restrobar which serves good local and international food. Attached to the resort is the
Watercolor Dive Center, which provides diving lessons. www.pulauperhentian.com.my/paradise.php
PULAU PERHENTIAN BESAR Tuna Bay Resort :z
West coast of Perhentian Besar, 22300 Tel (09) 697-7779 Fax (09) 697-8769 Rooms 44
Tuna Bay Resort is a simple resort overlooking the narrow passage between the islands Perhentian Besar and Perhentian
Kecil. The hotels Tuna Bay Restaurant (see p305) serves both local and Western food. Barbecue dinners by the beach
are available.The resort offers thrilling activity packages of diving, sea kayaking, snorkeling, fishing, and trekking.
PULAU PERHENTIAN KECIL Suria Perhentian Dive Resort Sz
Pasir Panjang Tel (09) 697-7960 Fax (09) 7806-4753 Rooms 50

This is a charming resort offering several types of accommodation from air-conditioned chalets to fan-cooled beach
huts overlooking the emerald seas. Targeting young executives, the hotel focuses on adventure activities such as
kayaking, diving, and island-hopping, which are used for team-building courses. www.suriaresorts.com
PULAU PERHENTIAN KECIL Watercolors Impiani Resort and Restaurant S : z
Near Pasir Petani beach, 08000 Tel & Fax (09) 697-7346 Rooms 40
Attractive chalet accommodations with beach, garden, and hillside options. The restaurant specializes in seafood
barbecues and is open from early morning until midnight. Package deals of diving and snorkeling around the island
are organized by the resort, prices of which are negotiable. www.watercoloursworld.com
PULAU REDANG Coral Redang Island Resort S:z
Pantai Pasir Panjang, 20100 Tel (09) 630-7110 Fax (09) 630-7112 Rooms 40
Set amid dazzling beaches and overlooking the sea, this island resort offers a wide range of diving and snorkeling
packages. There are two restaurants, Matahari (see p305), which offers a daily buffet as well as three a la carte
meals daily, and Chicack Poolside Bar. www.coralredang.com.my
PULAU TENGGOL Tenggol

T Island Resort Sz
Jalan Yayha Ahmad, 23000 Tel (09) 848-4862 Fax (09) 845-7302 Rooms 21
This privately owned offshore resort on Pulau Tenggol focuses on diving activities with more than 20 dive sites
in the area. It offers special package rates that include three meals a day and diving with all equipment provided and
experienced diving instructors. www.tenggolisland.com
T
TASIK CHINI Lake Chini Resort z
Tasik Chini, 26690 Tel (09) 477-8000 Fax (09) 477-2008 Rooms 10
Rural tranquility envelops this resort by Tasik Chini with chalet, dormitory, and camping options fitting every
budgetary need. The restaurant serves local and international delights, and barbecues can be requested (see p305).
The resort organizes tours of Tasik Chini, as well as visits to local Orang Asli homes. www.lakechini.com
SARAWAK
BINTULU Regency Plaza S : z
116 Taman Sri Dagang, Jalan Abang Galau, 97000 Tel (086) 335-111 Fax (086) 332-742 Rooms 161
Probably Bintulus most pleasant and convenient choice, the Plaza Regency is located fairly close to the town
center. The hotel has an impressive lobby and large, elegantly furnished rooms with large beds. There is also a
swimming pool and bar on the top floor. www.plazabintulu.com.my
BRUNEI Brunei Hotel z
Jalan Pemancha, Bandar Seri Begawan, 8670 Tel (0673) 224-2372 Fax (0673) 222-6196 Rooms 105
This hotel is centrally located in Bandar at the heart of its business district. The rooms are large and carpeted, with
en suite bathrooms, satellite TVs, and minibars. The hotel also has a grand conference room, and a restaurant serving
both Asian and Western dishes. www.bruneihotel.com.bn
BRUNEI Sheraton Utama Sz
Jalan Tasek Lama, Bandar Seri Begawan, 8674 Tel (0673) 224-4272 Fax (0673) 222-1579 Rooms 155
Located north of the city center, Sheraton Utama is the first chain hotel in Bandar Seri Begawan. Its facilities include
a business center and a choice of restaurants. Rooms are well-furnished with Internet access, minibars, and tea- and
coffee-making facilities. www.starwooodhotels.com/sheraton
DAMAI BEACH Holiday Inn Resort Damai Beach S : z 7
Teluk Badung, Santubong, Kuching , 93756 Tel (082) 846-999 Fax (082) 846-777 Rooms 320
Occupying a prime section of Damai Beach, this resort blends with its surroundings and has a beach shaded by
coconut palms. There are two swimming pools and an outdoor massage center. The choice of accommodations
ranges from chalets set in the hills to enormous poolside rooms. www.ichotelsgroup.com
DAMAI BEACH Permai Rainforest Resort S z
Jalan Sultan Tengah, Pantai Damai Santubong, 93050 Tel (082) 846-490 Fax (082) 846-486 Rooms 34
This is an eco-friendly resort with large tree houses and cabins surrounded by pristine rain forest. The tree houses
have fabulous views across the sea. Adventure activities offered include mountain climbing and rappeling. The hotel
also has a swimming pool, restaurant, and campsites. www.permairainforest.com
DAMAI BEACH Holiday Inn Resort Damai Lagoon S : z 7
Jalan Teluk Penyuk, Santubong, Kuching, 93762 Tel (082) 846-900 Fax (082) 846-901 Rooms 253
This place manages to outdo the competition particularly in terms of surrounding landscape. It sits in a private cove
where guests can indulge in water sports. The facilities include a health center, sauna, Jacuzzi, and a number
of restaurants and pools, one with a sunken bar. www.asiatravel.com/malaysia
GUNUNG MULU Royal Mulu Resort S:z
CDT 62, Sungai Melinau, Baram, 98000 Tel (085) 790-100 Fax (085) 790-101 Rooms 188
Situated on the banks of the Sungai Melinau, just upstream from Mulu National Park, this resort is ideal for exploring
the provinces most popular national park. The rooms, though fashioned as longhouses, are spacious with parquet
flooring and rattan furnishings. Activities include all-terrain vehicle (ATV) jungle safaris. www.royalmuluresort.com
KAPIT Meligai z
Jalan Airport Kapit, PO Box 212, Kapit, 96807 Tel (084) 799-304 Fax (084) 798-103 Rooms 45
Although not comparable to the premier hotels in Sarawaks bigger towns, this is the plushest place in the remote
town of Kapit. It has large, well-appointed rooms and a good restaurant. Conveniently located in the town center,
it is particularly popular with businessmen.
KUCHING Borneo Hotel z
30 C-F Jalan Tabuan, 93100 Tel (082) 244-122 Fax (082) 254-848 Rooms 65
Kuchings oldest hotel, Borneo Hotel appears slightly dated. However, it remains popular for the well-equipped, air-
conditioned rooms, with polished floors and television sets, at competitive prices. Still, a room should be checked
before accepting as some seem dingy.
KUCHING Singgahsana Lodge z
1 Temple Street, 93000 Tel (08) 242-9277 Fax (082) 242-9267 Rooms 18
This guesthouse, located just a few steps from the Kuching waterfront, is a budget travelers dream. Immaculate
rooms and friendly staff make it welcoming. There is a cozy communal area with free Internet access. Reasonably
priced dormitories are also available. www.singgahsana.com
KUCHING Harbor View Hotel z
Lorong Temple, 93100 Tel (082) 274-666 Fax (082) 274-777 Rooms 245
A reliable hotel, Harbor View is particularly popular among business travelers for its services, convenient location in
Kuchings business center, and competitive rates. The rooms are clean and comfortable and some have good views
across the Kuching waterfront. Buffet breakfasts are included in the room rate. www.harbourview.com.my
KUCHING Telang
T Usan z
Lot 340-345, Jalan Ban Hock, 93124 Tel (082) 415-588 Fax (082) 425-316 Rooms 66
Run by people of the Kenyah community, this hotel is embellished with Kenyah artwork. It has good facilities in
addition to a convenient and quiet location in Kuching. The hotels bars and caf are ideal for soaking up local
ambience. www.telangusan.com/kuchinguk.htm
KUCHING Kingwood Inn S : z
Lot 618, Section 62, Jal;an Padungan, 93100 Tel (082) 330-888 Fax (082) 332-888 Rooms 315
Tucked away from the town center, the Kingwood Inn offers good services. The rooms are of decent size and all
have television and the additional benefit of late check-out. The hotel has a pool, coffee house, and a convivial bar.
www.kuchinghotels.net
KUCHING Hilton Kuching S:z
Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, 93756 Tel (082) 248-200 Fax (082) 428-984 Rooms 315
Despite tough competition, Hilton Kuching stands out as Kuchings finest hotel. The rooms are well-furnished
and offer fantastic views of the Kuching waterfront. It also has a good choice of restaurants on-site such as The
Steakhouse (see p306). There is also a traditional handicrafts shop. www.kuching.hilton.com
KUCHING Merdeka Palace Hotel S:z7
Jalan Tun Abang Haji Openg, 93804 Tel (082) 258-000 Fax (082) 425-400 Rooms 214
This hotel is reasonably priced with spacious rooms equipped with minibar, satellite TV, and tea- and coffee-making
facilities. It also has a pool, business center, and health club. Guests have a choice of six restaurants and bars on
the premises. www.merdekapalace.com
KUCHING Crowne Plaza S:z7
Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, 93756 Tel (082) 247-777 Fax (082) 425-858 Rooms 253
Occupying a prime riverside site, the Crowne Plaza is one of Kuchings best hotels. The well-furnished rooms are
equipped with modern amenities and offer great views of the river. The hotel has several bars and restaurants, as
well as a fitness club, a business center, and an adjoining shopping complex. www.crowneplaza.com
MIRI Brooke Inn z
14 Jalan Brooke, 98007 Tel (085) 412-881 Fax (085) 420-899 Rooms 15
A clean and reliable option for budget travelers, this inn is conveniently located near places of interest in the town
center. The rooms have all the basics, such as hot water in bathrooms, air conditioning, television, and telephone.
The hotels helpful and friendly staff makes the stay enjoyable. brookeinn@hotmail.com
MIRI Park City Everly S:z7
279 Block 11, Jalan Temenggong, 98008 Tel (085) 418-888 Fax (085) 419-999 Rooms 168
With a beachfront location in the Brighton district of Miri, just off the town center, this hotel offers lovely seaside
walking trails. The rooms are well-appointed with minibars, complimentary newspapers, and tea- and coffee-making
facilities. The hotel also has a restaurant, coffee house, and a poolside bar. www.pinganchorage.com.my
MIRI Dynasty :z7
Lot 683, Block 9, 98009 Tel (085) 421-111 Fax (085) 422-222 Rooms 132
The rooms of this three-star hotel are elegantly and tastefully furnished with all necessary comforts. The hotel has
conference facilities, a pool, a health center, and several bars. It is strategically situated for exploring Miri and the
Oil Town Shopping Complex is close by. www.dynastyhotelmiri.com
MIRI Mega Hotel S:z
Lot 907, Jalan Merbau, 98000 Tel (085) 432-432 Fax (085) 433-433 Rooms 228
As its name suggests, the Mega Hotel is one of Miris biggest and is located in the business district in the city
center. Among the facilities are a pool and Jacuzzi, a health center, and a business center. Within walking
distance of the hotel are banks, restaurants, parks, and a shopping complex. www.megahotel.com.my
MIRI Miri Marriott Resort and Spa S:z7
Jalan Temenggong Datuk Oyong Lawai, 98000 Tel (085) 421-121 Fax (085) 421-099 Rooms 220
Sprawling across lush tropical gardens, the Marriott Resort and Spa has a range of deluxe rooms and suites, and
boasts five-star luxury. Although located at the outskirts of town, it is equipped with restaurants, recreational
facilities, and the extremely rejuvenating Mandara Spa. www.marriotthotels.com
SIBU Kingwood S:z
12 Lorong Lanang 4, 96000 Tel (084) 335-888 Fax (084) 846-777 Rooms 168
Sibus only four-star hotel, Kingwood is also the largest, offering idyllic views of the Batang Rajang. The large rooms
have king-size or twin beds and all the bathrooms have bathtubs. The conference rooms are big, and there is also a
health and fitness center. The hotel has a choice of stylish eateries.
SIBU Premier z
Jalan Kampong Nyabor, 96008 Tel (084) 323-222 Fax (084) 323-399 Rooms 48
This small hotel is probably Sibus second-best option, and appears to be popular with tour groups. All rooms
are spacious and tastefully decorated, and include a minibar and satellite TV. The room rates include a good buffet
breakfast. The evenings are enjoyable with a Filipino band performing in the lounge. www.premierh.com.my
SABAH
DANUM VALLEY Borneo Rainforest Lodge z
Lot 20, Block 3, MDLD 3285, Fajar Center, 91120 Tel (089) 880-207 Fax (089) 885-051 Rooms 32
The charges here are per person sharing a double room. The comfortable rooms have panoramic views across the
Danum Valley. A complete package of room along with food and drinks includes jungle trips for bird-watching
from the lodges canopy walkway with nature guides.
GUNUNG KINABALU Kinabalu Pine Resort z
Kundasang Ranau Highway, 89300 Tel (088) 243-629 Fax (088) 259-552 Rooms 64
Located just outside the Kinabalu National Park, this resort offers spectacular views of Gunung Kinabalu from the
timber chalets with wide verandas. The site is steeped in pine aroma and has a childrens playground and outdoor
barbecue pits, making it popular with families. www.kinabalupineresort.com
GUNUNG KINABALU Sutera Sanctuary Lodges z
G15, Wisma Sabah, 88000 Tel (088) 889-077 Fax (088) 889-091 Rooms 34
The Sutera Sanctuary Lodges have several lodges around the Park Headquarters at Kinabalu National Park, some
resorts, and chalets scattered on the hike up the Gunung Kinabalu. Accommodations range from basic dormitory
rooms to luxury lodges. The website should be consulted before booking. www.suterasanctuarylodges.com
KOTA KINABALU Backpacker Lodge
Lot 25, Lorong Dewan, Australia Place, 88000 Tel (088) 261-495 Rooms 10
Also known as Lucys Homestay, the Backpacker Lodge is one of the cheapest accommodations available in Kota
Kinabalu. Facilities offered are basic, and dormitories have shared bathrooms. There is a communal area for chatting
and watching television. The hotel owner can help arrange climbing trips.
KOTA KINABALU Mandarin z
138 Gaya Street, 88820 Tel (088) 225-222 Fax (088) 225-481 Rooms 52
One of Kota Kinabalus smaller hotels, the Mandarin is worth considering for its reasonable facilities and competitive
rates. Well located in the downtown area, it has big, comfortable rooms with marble flooring. During low seasons,
discounts on room prices are available.
KOTA KINABALU Trekkers Lodge z
30 Jalan Haji Saman, 88803 Tel (088) 252-263 Fax (088) 258-263 Rooms 12
Conveniently located in the heart of Kota Kinabalu, this place is popular with budget travelers. The lodge offers
decent rooms with shared bathrooms, and a fan-cooled dormitory. Free breakfast and all-day coffee and tea are
offered. The management helps with arranging out-of-town trips. www.trekkerslodge.com
KOTA KINABALU Beverly Hotel S:z7
Lorong Kemajuan, 88000 Tel (088) 258-998 Fax (088) 258-778 Rooms 200
The Beverly Hotel offers elegantly furnished rooms equipped with a minibar, free in-house movie viewing facilities,
and Internet access. This comfortable hotel has a business center, health center, swimming pool and several
restaurants including the Bamboo Restaurant and the Oriental Caf.
KOTA KINABALU Hyatt Regency Kinabalu S:z7
Jalan Datuk Salleh Sulong, 88991 Tel (088) 221-234 Fax (088) 218-909 Rooms 288
Located on the waterfront in the city center, this trendy hotel offers all the comforts provided by an international
chain hotel. There are Chinese and Japanese restaurants in-house. The staff is efficient and helpful. www.kinabalu.
regency.hyatt.com
KOTA KINABALU Jesselton Hotel S:z
69 Jalan Gaya, 88000 Tel (088) 223-333 Fax (088) 240-401 Rooms 31
Originally built in the 1950s, this is the oldest hotel in Kota Kinabalu. It was refurbished in the 1990s as a boutique
hotel. The rooms boast comforts such as satellite TV, a minibar, and tea- and coffee-making facilities. The in-house
Gardenia Grill Room (see p307) offers fine dining. www.jesseltonhotel.com
KOTA KINABALU Le Meridien Kota Kinabalu S:z7
Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens, Sinsuran, 88000 Tel (088) 322-222 Fax (088) 322-223 Rooms 306
Among Kota Kinabalus new generation of chic hotels, the Le Meridien Kota Kinabalu offers services to pamper
guests. The rooms enjoy great views of the offshore islands and have king-size beds and luxurious bathrooms. The
eateries include The Circle, Bamboo Chic, Rumba, and a Latin bar and grill. www.kotakinabalu.lemeridien.com
KOTA KINABALU Nexus Resort Karambunai S:z7
Kampung Karambunai, 88450 Tel (088) 411-222 Fax (088) 411-020 Rooms 490
Sprawling across a stretch of pristine beaches to the northeast of Kota Kinabalu, this exclusive five-star hotel
offers fantastic rooms. Activities such as golf, kayaking, windsurfing, and boat rides are also provided. The room
rates include airport transfers as well as complimentary breakfasts and dinners. www.nexusresort.com
KOTA KINABALU Shangri La Tanjung

T Aru S:z7
Tanjung Aru, Locked Bag 174, 88995 Tel (088) 225-800 Fax (088) 217-155 Rooms 495
Located at Tanjung Aru close to Kota Kinabalu Airport, this five-star resort is luxurious with a delightful beachfront.
It has well-equipped rooms and offers a range of activities to guests, such as horse riding, bird-watching, water
volleyball, and a pool, as well as eight in-house restaurants and bars. www.shangri-la.com
KOTA KINABALU Sutera Harbour Resort S:z7
1 Sutera Harbour Boulevard, 88100 Tel (088) 318-888 Fax (088) 317-777 Rooms 956
Located just south of the city center, this massive complex consists of two separate properties the Pacific Sutera
and Magellan Sutera as well as a vast marina and a golf course. The rooms have fantastic views of the sea. The
hotels spa offers rejuvenating aromatherapy treatments. www.suteraharbour.com
LAHAD DATU The Executive Hotel z
Jalan Teratai, MDLD No. 0852, Lahad Datu, 91121 Tel (089) 881-333 Fax (089) 881-777 Rooms 50
These are the best accommodations in Lahad Datu with well-equipped rooms and attentive service, which includes
free drops at the airport. The hotels eateries, including the Spring Palace restaurant (see p307) and the Plantation
Coffee House, serve excellent food.
PULAU LABUAN Tiara Labuan Hotel S:z
Jalan Tanjung Batu, Labuan, 87015 Tel (087) 414-300 Fax (087) 410-195 Rooms 71
Adjacent to the Labuan Golf Club and a short distance from the airport and town center, the Tiara Labuan Hotel
is well located. There are well-equipped chalets and suites surrounded by tropical vegetation. Also on-site are The
Grill, offering Western and local cuisine, the Blue Bayou Lounge, and Cheers Pub. www.tiaralabuan.com.my
PULAU LABUAN Sheraton Labuan Hotel S:z7
Lot 462, Jalan Merdeka, Labuan, 87029 Tel (087) 402-677 Fax (087) 425-176 Rooms 178
This hotel offers all the comforts typical of this international chain, such as spacious carpeted rooms with balconies,
minibars, and satellite TV. The in-house Victorias Brasserie and Somewhere Else are good restaurant options. The
botanical gardens are close by. www.sheraton.com/labuan
PULAU LANKAYAN Pulau Sipadan Resort and Tours

T z
484 Bandar Sabindo, Tawau, 91021 Tel (089) 765-200 Fax (089) 763-575 Rooms 15
A delightful resort on Pulau Lankayan, it consists of chalets and apartments. The package price includes
accommodation, meals, and three dives a day. Located an hour and a half by boat from Sandakan, it is one
of the most isolated and tranquil spots imaginable. www.sipadan-resort.com
SANDAKAN Hotel Sabah S:z
Jalan Utara, 90703 Tel (089) 213-299 Fax (089) 271-271 Rooms 120
This premier hotel situated just outside the town center provides one of the best accommodation options. The
rooms have every conceivable comfort, and facilities include a large pool, jogging track, spa and massage services.
The hotels location is convenient for trips to the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center (see p190).
SANDAKAN Hotel Sandakan S:z
Block 83, Town Center, Lebuh 4, 90007 Tel (089) 221-122 Fax (089) 221-100 Rooms 105
This is the most convenient place to stay in Sandakan because of its location in the town center and all the sights
worth visiting are close by. The rooms are tastefully decorated and well equipped. The restaurants serve local and
international cuisine. Banquet facilities are also available. www.hotelsandakan.com.my
SANDAKAN Sepilok Nature Resort z
Labuk Road, Tel (089) 228-081 Fax (089) 271-777 Rooms 17

Encircling an attractive lake, the timber bungalows of this resort enjoy some idyllic views of lush forests. The
rooms are fitted with overhead fans or air conditioners, televisions, and a minibar. It is located right next to the
Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center (see p190). http://sepilok.com/index.html
SEMPORNA Seafest Hotel :z
Jalan Kastam, 91308 Tel (089) 782-333 Fax (089) 782-555 Rooms 63
Located an hours drive from Tawau Airport and within a short boat ride of the offshore islands, this is Sempornas
fanciest hotel. The rooms have televisions, and coffee- and tea-making facilities. There are also good fitness and
business centers along with a restaurant serving local and international cuisine.
SEMPORNA Sipadan Water Village Resort z
TB226, Lot 3 Wisma MAA, Tawau, 91000 Tel (089) 797-006 Fax (089) 784-228 Rooms 45
Built on stilts over the pristine waters that lap Pulau Mabul, this resort is for divers and the package includes
all meals, though dive charges are extra. Each chalet has its own private deck with panoramic views over
coral reefs, while inside the rooms have polished wood floors and rattan furniture. www.swvresort.com
TAWAU Belmont Marco Polo

TA z
3 Jalan Clinic, Tawau, 91008 Tel (089) 777-988 Fax (089) 763-739 Rooms 146
This is by far the best place to stay in Tawau since the rooms are large with good facilities. There is a business
center, coffee shop, and a Chinese restaurant. The hotel also operates a shuttle bus to the airport, making it a
convenient stopover for visitors heading off to the dive sites around Pulau Sipadan.
S G O
SINGAPORE
COLONIAL CORE Bugis Backpackers z \
162B Rochor Road, 188437 Tell 6338-5581 Fax

x 6338-8192 Rooms 12 Map 3 E4
A clean and comfortable hotel with extremely helpful staff. Situated in the colorful, bustling Bugis Village with a
popular nightlife scene, this hotel might not be the best option for those looking for quiet accommodation. Co-ed
dormitories as well as shared women-only rooms are available. www.hostelsclub.com
COLONIAL CORE New 7th Story Hotel z \
229 Rochor Road, 188452 Tell 6337-0251 Fax

x 6334-3550 Rooms 40 Map 3 E4
Despite its name, this hotel actually has nine floors including a rooftop area. The facilities here are excellent, and
include clean and well-furnished rooms complete with a business center, garden patio, and bicycle rentals. Staff are
friendly and the manual lift is perhaps the last of its kind in Singapore. www.nsshotel.com
COLONIAL CORE YWCA Fort Canning Lodge Sz7 \
6 Fort Canning Road, 179494 Tel & Fax

x 6338-4222 Rooms 175 Map 5 D1
Part of the international chain of hostels, the YWCA occupies a wonderful location near the historic city center and
Fort Canning Park. The rooms are basic but comfortable, and some have a view of the park. A simple breakfast buf-
fet is also offered. The hostel is a favorite with backpackers and visitors on a budget. www.ywcafclodge.org.sg
COLONIAL CORE Carlton Hotel S:z7 \\
76 Bras Basah Road, 189558 Tell 6388-8333 Fax

x 6399-6866 Rooms 630 Map 5 D1
Situated in the colonial district, within walking distance of many major attractions, the 26-story Carlton Hotel
offers smart and contemporary accommodations. It has two wings, main and premier. Rooms in the latter feature
broadband Internet access and marble-floored bathrooms. Breakfast is included in the tariff. www.carlton.com.sg
COLONIAL CORE Hotel Rendezvous S:z7 \\
9 Bras Brasah Road, 189559 Tell 6336-0220 Fax

x 6337-3773 Rooms 300 Map 5 D1
Blending old-world colonial elegance with sleek modern decor, this hotel has efficient service and a number of
amenities for extended-stay travelers such as safe-deposit boxes and luggage rooms. There is a relaxing Balinese-
style pool on the third floor, complete with tropical greenery. www.rendezvoushotels.com/singapore
COLONIAL CORE Novotel Clarke Quay Hotel S:z7 \\
177A River Valley Road, 179031 Tell 6338-3333 Fax

x 6339-2854 Rooms 398 Map 5 D2
A fabulous riverfront location and views of Clarke Quay and the surrounding areas make up for the hotels small
rooms. A short boat ride can transport guests to many of the quayside bars and restaurants. There is a pleasant
alfresco dining area. www.accorhotels.com
COLONIAL CORE Grand Copthorne Waterfront S:z7 \\\
392 Havelock Road, 169663 Tell 6733-0880 Fax

x 6737-8880 Rooms 550 Map 4 A2
The parquet-floored rooms at this hotel are small and furnished with rattan, although some of them are a bit worn
out. Still, all of them offer wonderful views of the Singapore River. There are good tennis courts on the sixth floor
together with a gym and pool. This hotel is very popular with large tourist groups. www.grandcopthorne.com.sg
COLONIAL CORE Conrad International Centenniel S:z7 \\\\
2 Temasek Boulevard, 038982 Tell 6334-8888 Fax

x 6333-9166 Rooms 509 Map 5 F2
Close to the Central Business District, this luxurious business hotel offers impeccable service and special touches in
the guest rooms such as teddy bears, rubber ducks in the bathtub, and chocolate and fruit platters. They even have
a pillow menu from which guests can choose their pillows. www.conradhotels.com
COLONIAL CORE Grand Plaza Parkroyal S:z7 \\\\
10 Coleman Street, 179809 Tell 6336-3456 Fax

x 6339-9311 Rooms 326 Map 5 D2
Set in refurbished shophouses and retaining many of its architectural details, this hotel has a huge lobby, rooms
with floor to ceiling windows that overlook the pool, and the posh St. Gregory Spa. Among the spas specialties
are hydrotherapy, and Chinese and Balinese massages. www.parkhotelsgroup.com
COLONIAL CORE Pan Pacific S:z7 \\\\
7 Raffles Boulevard, Marina Square, 039595 Tell 6336-8111 Fax

x 6339-1861 Rooms 775 Map 5 F2
A 35-story atrium, with a striking Italian glass mural of the Vanda Miss Joachim orchid, Singapores national flower,
is one of the highlights of this luxury hotel. Plush rooms, with butler service for guests in the suites, business facili-
ties, and six award-winning restaurants are among its amenities. www.panpacific.com
COLONIAL CORE The Fullerton Singapore S:z7 \\\\\
1 Fullerton Square, 49178 Tell 6733-8388 Fax

x 6735-8388 Rooms 400 Map 5 E3
This former government building, a grand 1920s structure complete with Doric columns, vaulted ceilings, and an
astounding sunlit atrium lobby, was beautifully renovated in 2001 and converted into a luxury hotel. Its waterfront
location at the junction of Marina Bay and Singapore River adds to its appeal. www.fullertonhotel.com

COLONIAL CORE Marina Mandarin S:z7 \\\\\
6 Raffles Boulevard, Marina Square, 039594 Tell 6845-1000 Fax

x 6845-1001 Rooms 575 Map 5 F2
Featuring a beautiful atrium believed to be the largest in Southeast Asia, the Marina Mandarin is noted for its sleek
decor and personalized attention. They even have Venus rooms which cater exclusively to solo women travelers.
Unfortunately the nearest MRT station is a 15-minute walk away. www.marina-mandarin.com.sg
COLONIAL CORE The Oriental Singapore S:z7 \\\\\
5 Raffles Avenue, Marina Square, 039797 Tell 6338-0066 Fax

x 6339-9537 Rooms 527 Map 5 F2
Black marble, leather seats, and hand-woven carpets are some of the luxurious touches in this otherwise subdued
hotel. Vibrant paintings and pictures of old Singapore embellish the entire property. Some rooms look out onto the
harbor and there is an elaborate breakfast buffet. www.mandarinoriental.com
COLONIAL CORE Peninsula Excelsior Hotel S:z7 \\\\\
5 Coleman Street, 179805 Tell 6337-2200 Fax

x 6339-3847 Rooms 271 Map 5 D2
Popular with tourists for its excellent services, this hotel comprises two towers and a food court. Despite being
quieter, with panoramic views of the Singapore River, the rooms in the Peninsula Tower are priced lower than those
in its twin. A glass-sided pool adjoins the lobby. www.ytchotels.com.sg
COLONIAL CORE Raffles Hotel S:z7 \\\\\
1 Beach Road, 189673 Tell 6337-1886 Fax

x 6339-7650 Rooms 103 Map 5 E1
One of the worlds most exclusive hotels, Raffles (see pp21415) exudes colonial elegance and is renowned for
its exquisite facilities and flawless hospitality. The rooms are stylish and there are nine superb restaurants, five bars, a
Culinary Academy, and a luxurious spa, as well as the Raffles Hotel Arcade. www.raffleshotel.com
COLONIAL CORE Raffles the Plaza S:z7 \\\\\
80 Bras Brasah Road, 189560 Tell 6339-7777 Fax

x 6337-1554 Rooms 769 Map 5 D1
Consistently rated among the best hotels in the world, Raffles the Plaza is a renowned luxury hotel occupying a prime
location between Singapores business and cultural districts. It boasts exquisitely furnished rooms, impeccable service,
distinguished restaurants, and a superb spa among its array of facilities. www.singapore-plaza.raffles.com
COLONIAL CORE Ritz-Carlton Millenia S:z7 \\\\\
7 Raffles Avenue, 39799 Tell 6337-8888 Fax

x 6338-0001 Rooms 608 Map 5 F2
Home to one of the finest ballrooms in Singapore and a remarkable collection of contemporary art, this stunning
hotel is set amid sprawling tropical gardens, and offers fantastic views of the harbor and city skyline. There are
hot and cold plunge pools located in a pleasant landscaped area. www.ritzcarlton.com
CHINAT
A OWN A Travellers Rest-Stop z \
5 Teck Lim Road, 088383 Tell 6225-4812 Fax

x 6225-4813 Rooms 12 Map 4 C4
This small but clean, comfortable, and conveniently located hostel is housed in a colorful building with equally
vibrant rooms and dormitories. It has basic amenities such as lockers, a guest kitchen, self-service laundry, and
bicycle rental. There are plenty of restaurants within walking distance. www.atravellersreststop.com.sg
CHINAT
A OWN Damenlou Hotel z \
12 Ann Siang Road, 069692 Tell 6221-1900 Fax

x 6225-8500 Rooms 12 Map 4 C4
Taking its name from the Chinese nickname for the area, which referred to the gates that stood at the entrance of
Ann Siang Road in the 1930s, Damenlou, meaning the Big Gate House, is a small family-run hotel noted for its
friendly service. The comfortable rooms have basic facilities but deluxe rooms are offered. www.damenlou.com
CHINAT
A OWN Royal Peacock z \
55 Keong Saik Road, 89158 Tell 6223-3522 Fax

x 6221-1770 Rooms 74 Map 4 C4
This vibrantly colored hotel, with painted wooden shutters, is housed in a row of 10 converted shophouses and is
on the infamous Keong Saik Road, a former red light area. The rooms are small but guests still like it for the historic
feel. The hotel also has an excellent in-house restaurant. www.royalpeacockhotel.com
CHINAT
A OWN Holiday Inn Atrium S:z7 \\
317 Outram Road, 169075 Tell 6733-0188 Fax

x 6733-0989 Rooms 515 Map 4 A3
The dominating feature of this hotel, located in a quieter part of the city, is its spectacular 27-story glass atrium.
Rooms are comfortable and spacious. Staff are multilingual and very polite. The popular club complex Zouk (see
p255) is nearby. www.holiday-inn.com/atrium-sin
CHINAT
A OWN Hotel 1929 z \\
50 Kong Siak Road, 089154 Tell 6347-1929 Fax

x 6327-1929 Rooms 32 Map 4 C4
This hip, retro hotel takes its name from its setting in a renovated 1929 shophouse. Although the rooms are small,
they are well-appointed and feature beautiful vintage chairs from the owners private collection. The suites have a
lovely terrace with an outdoor bathtub. www.hotel1929.com
CHINAT
A OWN The Inn at Temple Street z \\
36 Temple Street, 058581 Tell 6221-5333 Fax

x 6225-5391 Rooms 42 Map 4 C4
Among the best budget accommodations in the area and the recipient of several awards, this inn occupies five
renovated shophouses and features lovely Peranakan decor. Although some rooms are without windows, the
service is fast and efficient. www.theinn.com.sg
\ under S$100 \\ S$100200 \\\ S$200300 \\\\ S$300400 \\\\\ over S$400
CHINATOWN Amara S:z7 \\\
165 Tanjong Pagar Road, 88539 Tell 6879-2555 Fax

x 6224-3910 Rooms 380 Map 4 C5
Located 15 minutes from the international airport, this stylish hotel has spacious rooms, tastefully done in sober
colors, and bathrooms fitted with bathtubs and marble-top sinks. Business travelers will find impressive facilities.
The hotel has several good restaurants, a spa, and an outdoor pool fed by water spouts. www.amarahotels.com
CHINATOWN Berjaya Duxton z \\\
83 Duxton Road, 089540 Tell 6227-7678 Fax

x 6227-1232 Rooms 48 Map 4 C4
Singapores first boutique hotel, this fine accommodation has a traditional Straits Chinese faade with an interior
that blends modern decor with old-world features, such as spiral wooden staircases. A range of plush rooms are
available; the garden rooms open onto a private courtyard and garden. www.berjayaresorts.com
CHINATOWN Miramar Singapore Hotel S:z \\\

x 6733-4027 Rooms 342 Map 4 A2
Sitting between Clarke and Robertson Quays, this hotel is perfectly located near some of the citys best nightlife and
the shopping paradise of Orchard Road. In addition to pleasant rooms and efficient service, the hotel has food and
beverage outlets, a business center, an outdoor pool, and fitness facilities. www.miramar.com.sg
CHINATOWN Furama City Center S:z7 \\\\
60 Eu Tong Sen Street, 059804 Tell 6533-3888 Fax

x 6534-1489 Rooms 354 Map 4 B4
Designed in a contemporary, minimalist style, this hotel is housed in a distinctive, curved building in the heart of
Chinatown. It is a favorite with business travelers for its excellent amenities including personalized stationery and
accessibility to the Central Business District. www.citycenter.furama.com
CHINATOWN Swissotel Merchant Court S:z7 \\\\
20 Merchant Road, 058281 Tell 6337-2288 Fax

x 6334-0606 Rooms 476 Map 4 C3
Enjoying an excellent location, close to the financial center as well as shopping and entertainment venues, this hotel
offers pleasantly appointed rooms, modern business meeting services, and a lovely rooftop pool with slides and a
separate Jacuzzi with a fabulous view of the Singapore River. www.swissotel-merchantcourt.swissotel.com
CHINATOWN Copthorne Kings Hotel S:z \\\\\

x 6732-5764 Rooms 314 Map 4 A2
This business hotel is within walking distance of the popular nightlife venue of Mohammad Sultan Road, and within
easy reach of the Central Business District and Orchard Road. The deluxe rooms have a private balcony. Among the
hotel amenities is a mini putting green, sauna, steam room, and outdoor Jacuzzi. www.copthornekings.com.sg
CHINATOWN Furama Riverfront S:z7 \\\\\

x 6733-1586 Rooms 525 Map 4 A2
Stylish, contemporary decor defines the Furama Riverfront. Suites have kitchenettes, and guests can use facilities
such as a business center, fitness center, outdoor pool and Jacuzzi, tennis court, and restaurants. A complimentary
shuttle-bus service to Chinatown and Orchard Road is offered to guests. www.riverfront.furama.com
LITTLE INDIA Claremont Hotel z \
301 Serangoon Road, 218224 Tell 6392-3933 Fax

x 6392-7833 Rooms 90 Map 3 E1
Proximity to the bazaars of Little India makes this hotel a popular choice. Although the amenities are basic, a range
of rooms are offered, which are airy and comfortable. A conference room and business center is also available. The
tour desk is efficient and helpful. www.claremont.com.sg
LITTLE INDIA The Inncrowd Hostel z \
73 Dunlop Street, 209401 Tell 6396-6694 Fax

x 6296-9169 Rooms 35 Map 3 D3
This budget hostel is noted for its immaculately clean and comfortable rooms, friendly owners, and excellent
facilities, which include a well-stocked library and a modern kitchen with a washing machine. The bathrooms are
communal, large, and airy. Bus stops and MRT stations are within walking distance. www.the-inncrowd.com
LITTLE INDIA Perak Hotel z \
12 Perak Road, 208133 Tell 6299-7733 Fax

x 6392-0919 Rooms 35 Map 3 D3
This modest but exceptionally well-maintained hotel in a renovated Peranakan-style building is the best option for
those who want to explore the back lanes of Little India or for travelers on a budget. The rooms, although tiny, are
extremely clean and the service is personalized. Public transport is within easy reach. www.peraklodge.net
LITTLE INDIA Albert Court :z7 \\
180 Albert Street, 189971 Tell 6339-3939 Fax

x 6339-3253 Rooms 210 Map 3 D4
Bright Peranakan colors, traditional teak wood furnishings, antique china, and old-fashioned brass fittings in the
bathrooms blend seamlessly in this atmospheric hotel. The courtyard rooms are an especially pleasant option.
Colorful shops and the numerous restaurants of Little India are just across the street. www.albertcourt.com.sg
LITTLE INDIA New Hotel Park Royal on Kitchener Road S:z \\
181 Kitchener Road, 208533 Tell 6428-3000 Fax

x 6297-2827 Rooms 527 Map 3 E2
The hotels best feature is its efficient travel desk, offering booking services and arranging local tours. Rooms are
comfortable and equipped with modern facilities. The hotel is also popular for its location right behind the
electronics haven at the Mustafa Shopping Center. www.kitchener.singapore.parkroyalhotels.com
LITTLE INDIA Summerview Hotel z \\
173 Bencoolen Street, 189642 Tell 6338-1122 Fax

x 6336-6346 Rooms 86 Map 3 D4
A budget hotel that exceeds expectations in value for money, service, and facilities. Despite being small, the rooms
are well-ventilated and extremely clean. Breakfast is included in the room tariff. Sim Lim Square (see p251), one of
the most popular electronics malls, is just around the corner. www.summerviewhotel.com.sg
LITTLE INDIA Copthorne Orchid S:z7 \\\
214 Dunearn Road, 299526 Tell 6415-6000 Rooms 440 Map 2 A1

Located a little away from the city, this hotel has spacious rooms decorated in pastel shades with large windows
and balconies. Hotel amenities include a brasserie, two lounge bars including a karaoke lounge, fitness facilities, a
business center, and an outdoor pool. www.copthorneorchid.com.sg
LITTLE INDIA Plaza Park Royal S:z \\\
7500A Beach Road, 199591 Tell 6298-0011 Fax

x 6296-3600 Rooms 341 Map 3 F4
This hotel, located in the Arab quarter, has spacious rooms with wooden floors. The pool complex is excellent, with
a waterfall, sundeck, and a well-manned spa, offering traditional Indonesian and aromatherapy treatments. There
is also a Chinese restaurant that serves good Sichuan cuisine. www.plaza.singapore.parkroyalhotels.com
LITTLE INDIA InterContinental S:z7 \\\\
80 Middle Road, Bugis junction 188966 Tell 6338-7600 Fax

x 6338-7366 Rooms 409 Map 3 D4
Impeccable service, beautiful interiors featuring Straits Chinese artifacts, and a great location in the historic Bugis
district at the edge of the Colonial Core set this hotel apart. The large breakfast buffet at the Olive Tree restaurant
features Western dishes, as well as Chinese and Japanese choices. www.intercontinental.com
ORCHARD ROAD Hotel Asia :z7 \\
37 Scotts Road, 228229 Tel 6737-8388 Fax 6733-3563 Rooms 146 Map 2 A3
Within walking distance of the major shopping and entertainment districts as well as the famed Newton Food Center,
this is a comfortable hotel. Rooms and suites are fitted with all conveniences such as in-room Internet access, and a
minibar. For travelers using the hotel as a base, extra luggage can be stored for no charge. www.hotelasia.com.sg
ORCHARD ROAD SHA Villa :z7 \\
64 Lloyd Road, 239113 Tel 6734-7117 Fax

x 6736-1651 Rooms 40 Map 2 B5
This hotel is the training center for the citys hotel industry staff, run by the SHA or Singapore Hotel Association.
The villas colonial architecture, polished wooden flooring, teakwood framed beds, and rich Oriental rugs exude an
old-world elegance. The Rosette restaurant has an all-day dining menu. www.sha.org.sg
ORCHARD ROAD YMCA International House Sz \\
1 Orchard Road, 238834 Tell 6336-6000 Fax

x 6336-8003 Rooms 111 Map 2 A4
The YMCA is popular not just for being one of the rare budget options in the Orchard Road area but also for
its clean rooms fitted with the latest modern facilities and extremely friendly staff. Rooms and dormitories are
available and the breakfast is included in the room tariff. www.ymcaih.com.sg
ORCHARD ROAD Holiday Inn Park View S:z7 \\\
11 Cavenagh Road, 229616 Tell 6733-8333 Fax

x 6734-4593 Rooms 315 Map 2 B4
Popular with travelers making a brief halt in Singapore, this hotel has well-appointed rooms with extremely
comfortable beds and attentive hotel staff. Guests are also provided with disposable slippers. The rooftop pool is
beautifully lit at night. www.singapore.holiday-inn.com
ORCHARD ROAD Le Grove Serviced Apartments Sz \\\
32 Orange Grove Road , 258354 Tell 6732-2212 Fax

x 6738-9281 Rooms 97 units Map 1 E1
Surrounded by greenery, these serviced apartments are a popular choice for travelers on extended stays as well as
with families traveling with children. Guests can choose to stay in furnished singles, doubles, and three-bedroom
units. Each unit has a fully-equipped kitchen and is attended daily by housekeeping staff. www.cdl.com.sg
ORCHARD ROAD Negara on Claymore S:z7 \\\
10 Claymore Road, 229540 Tell 6737-0811 Fax

x 6737-9075 Rooms 200 Map 1 F2
Unassuming and sparsely furnished in a blend of Italian and Oriental decor, the rooms at this hotel are comfortable
and scrupulously clean. Most rooms have large bathrooms. Business travelers will be impressed by the excellent
office facilities. The hotels swimming pool is filled with mineral water. www.negara-claymore.com.sg
ORCHARD ROAD Park Hotel Orchard S:z7 \\\

x 6732-7018 Rooms 302 Map 2 A4
This hotels location on Orchard Road, the shopping hub of Singapore, close to business and entertainment venues,
is its greatest draw. It has a wide variety of rooms, all large and airy, as well as other standard facilities such as a
business center, restaurants, and a swimming pool. www.crownhotels.com.sg
ORCHARD ROAD Traders Hotel S:z7 \\\
1A Cuscaden Road, 249716 Tell 6738-2222 Fax

x 6831-4314 Rooms 546 Map 1 E2
One of the best features of Traders Hotel is the fully-equipped hospitality lounge that guests can use even after
check-out. All of the rooms are well-equipped. A special package is offered to extended-stay guests along with
discounts at the nearby Tanglin Shopping Center (see p249). www.shangri-la.com/singapore/traders
\ under S$100 \\ S$100200 \\\ S$200300 \\\\ S$300400 \\\\\ over S$400
ORCHARD ROAD York Hotel Singapore S:z \\\
21 Mount Elizabeth Road, 228516 Tell 6737-0511 Fax

x 6732-1217 Rooms 406 Map 2 A3
Despite its proximity to the shopping district, this hotel is calm and quiet. The staff are particularly accommodating
of large families, and can provide adjoining rooms or arrange for extra space, if required. The hotel has a grand
pool along with cabana rooms and a palm-fringed sundeck facing a garden. www.yorkhotel.com.sg
ORCHARD ROAD The Elizabeth S:z7 \\\\
24 Mount Elizabeth Road, 228518 Tell 6738-1188 Fax

x 6732-3866 Rooms 256 Map 2 A3
Nestled amid tranquil, leafy surroundings in a residential district close to Orchard Road, this hotel has Neoclassical
architecture and decor accented with contemporary European design. The glass-panelled lobby looks out onto a
landscaped garden studded with water features that cascade over a rockery. www.fareast.com.sg
ORCHARD ROAD Le Meridien Singapore S:z7 \\\\

x 6732-7886 Rooms 407 Map 2 A4
Simple but stylish rooms in warm earth tones are fitted with the latest amenities and most rooms feature balconies.
A delicious high tea can be enjoyed on weekends. The reception staff are very helpful, particularly for early check-ins
or late check-outs. www.lemeridian.com.sg
ORCHARD ROAD Meritus Mandarin S:z7 \\\\

x 6732-2361 Rooms 1051 Map 2 A4
Situated in the middle of Orchard Road, this hotel is home to the citys popular revolving restaurant Top of the M
(see p312) and its lobby features an attractive marble mural depicting 87 Taoist Imperials. Rooms on the higher
floors have fantastic views of the Strait of Malacca and Malaysia on clear days. www.mandarin-singapore.com
ORCHARD ROAD Orchard Hotel S:z7 \\\\
442 Orchard Road, 238879 Tel 6734-7766 Fax

x 6733-5482 Rooms 653 Map 2 A4
Situated on a quieter section of Orchard Road, yet close to all the malls, this hotel features rooms that reflect a mix
of Western and Oriental decor with rosewood bedstands and silk lampshades. The hotel has a beautiful ballroom
and an attached shopping mall. Several embassies are close by. www.orchardhotel.com.sg
ORCHARD ROAD Orchard Parade S:z7 \\\\
1 Tanglin Road, 247905 Tell 6737-1133 Fax

x 6733-0242 Rooms 387 Map 1 D3
Maintaining a Mediterranean theme throughout the space, this hotel, on a quiet end of Orchard Road, is
decorated in earthy shades with terra-cotta artifacts, wrought-iron railings, and chandeliers. It is preferred by
families with children as the rooms are spacious and include extra beds. www.orchardparade.com.sg
ORCHARD ROAD Phoenix :z \\\\

x 6732-2024 Rooms 394 Map 2 A4
Although primarily a business hotel, the Phoenix is also suitable for leisure travelers. Rooms are equipped with
computers, and some have computerized massage chairs and exercise equipment such as stair climbers. Guests
have free entry to the disco and wine bar in the basement. www.hotelphoenixsingapore.com
ORCHARD ROAD Four Seasons S:z7 \\\\\
190 Orchard Boulevard, 248646 Tell 6734-1110 Fax

x 6733-0682 Rooms 254 Map 2 A4
One of the worlds most luxurious hotel chains, the Four Seasons offers exquisite accommodation and impeccable
service and facilities. In-room fitness equipment, surround sound systems, babysitting facilities, and complimen-
tary baby toiletries are just a few of the amenities guests can expect. www.fourseasons.com
ORCHARD ROAD Goodwood Park Hotel S:z7 \\\\\
22 Scotts Road, 228221 Tell 6737-7411 Fax

x 6732-8558 Rooms 232 Map 2 A3
Built in 1900, this historic hotel (see p235), now a designated National Monument, often hosts international
dignitaries and celebrities. The hotel is surrounded by a lovely garden and has elegant rooms, decorated in either
colonial or modern style, facing the beautifully landscaped pool area. www.goodwoodparkhotel.com
ORCHARD ROAD Grand Hyatt S:z7 \\\\\

x 6732-1696 Rooms 663 Map 2 A3
A free-form pool surrounded by a lush garden and a cascading four-story waterfall are the spectacular features of this
luxury hotel. The interiors sport dark wood and leather. Rooms on the terrace wing have glass niches overlooking the
garden. The hotel also has a popular bar and a restaurant, Mezza9 (see p312). www.hyatt.com
ORCHARD ROAD Hilton International S:z7 \\\\\
581 Orchard Road, 238883 Tel 6737-2233 Fax 6732-2917 Rooms 422 Map 2 A4
This hotel is perhaps best known for the many international designer stores such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and
Donna Karan housed in its shopping arcade. Rooms have superb city views as does the rooftop pool. Also on the
hotel premises is the excellent Harbor Grill and Oyster Bar. www.singapore-hilton.com
ORCHARD ROAD Royal Plaza on Scotts S:z7 \\\\\

x 6737-6646 Rooms 511 Map 2 A3
A splendid lobby with two grand staircases and a magnificent stained-glass dome greets guests upon arrival. The
service is exceptional and rooms have free broadband access and a complimentary minibar stocked with water and
soft drinks. Some rooms have a separate dressing area. www.royalplaza.com.sg
ORCHARD ROAD Shangri-La Singapore S:z7 \\\\\
22 Orange Grove Road, 258350 Tell 6737-3644 Fax

x 6737-3257 Rooms 760 Map 1 E1
One of the most expensive hotels in Singapore, the beautiful Shangri-La is an oasis of luxury and tranquility in the
heart of the city. Sheer glass walls throughout the hotel overlook a lush tropical garden with walking paths and an
outdoor ground floor pool. The staff are very attentive. www.shangri-la.com
ORCHARD ROAD Sheraton Towers S:z7 \\\\\

x 6737-1072 Rooms 413 Map 2 A3
Named as one of the top 10 business hotels in the world, the Sheraton Towers offers its signature brand of luxury,
service, and amenities. The glass lobby features a grand staircase, and rooms have exceptionally soft and luxurious
beds. Live music is performed in the lobby and piano bar every evening. www.sheratonsingapore.com
ORCHARD ROAD Singapore Marriott S:z7 \\\\\

x 6735-9800 Rooms 392 Map 2 A4
This green pagoda-roofed hotel is a landmark in Singapore. Its lavish rooms are decorated in floral themes. It also
houses the very popular alfresco Crosswards Caf. The rooftop swimming pool, where attendants greet guests
with orchids and cold towels, is particularly luxurious. www.singaporemarriott.com
FARTHER AFIELD Fern Loft Backpacker Hostel z7 \
693 A East Coast Road, 459058 Tell 6449-9066 Fax

x 6449-9066 Rooms 22 beds, 4 dorms
Located 10 minutes from the Changi Airport, this cozy hostel is run like a homestay. Free breakfast, a reading room,
a restaurant, and a pub are some of its in-house facilities, while within walking distance are a beach and some of
Singapores best seafood restaurants. www.fernloft.com
FARTHER AFIELD One Florence Close Sz \
1 Florence Close, Upper Serangoon Road, 549588 Tel 6289-9005 Rooms 26 beds, 10 rooms
Featuring hip, minimalist decor, this small budget hotel occupies a serene location, away from the city center.
Rooms are equipped with all the basic facilities and are scrupulously clean. The common bathrooms are tiny
but sport modern showers. Children below 4 years are not accepted here. www.oneflorenceclose.com
FARTHER AFIELD Hotel Royal Sz \\
36 Newton Road, 307964 Tell 6253-4411 Fax

x 6253-8668 Rooms 331 Map 2 B2
This budget hotel offers spacious rooms, restaurants, bars, shops, and efficient service. It is particularly popular
with large tourist groups and guests keen on sampling local flavors at the adjacent Newton Food Center and
Circus, which is famous for its hawker stalls. www.hotelroyal.com.sg
FARTHER AFIELD Grand Mercure Roxy S:z7 \\\
50 East Coast Road, Roxy Square, 428769 Tel 6344-8000 Fax 6344-8010 Rooms 539
This modest hotel, with all the basic facilities, suits travelers looking for a quiet escape and also those with children.
It is located away from the bustle of the city and is close to East Coast Parkway which has beaches, restaurants,
shops, and recreational facilities such as cycling and hiking. www.mercure.com
FARTHER AFIELD Hotel Changi Village S:z7 \\\
1 Netheravon Road, Changi Village, 508502 Tel 6379-7111 Fax 6545-0112 Rooms 380
Although set away from the city center, the Hotel Changi Village lies close to the airport and includes an array
of attractions to keep guests engaged. Leisurely strolls along scenic trails, kayaking, a beach, a golf course, and the
Changi Chapel and Museum are some of the highlights here. www.changivillagehotel.com.sg
FARTHER AFIELD Treasure Resort Sentosa Sz \\\
23 Beach View, Sentosa, 98679 Tell 6271-2002 Fax

x 6274-0220 Rooms 63
Housed in a pre-war colonial building at the heart of a theme park, this is the only budget hotel on Sentosa (see
pp2445). Most rooms and suites have private balconies with lovely views of the sea or the enormous Merlion statue
which stands opposite the park. Facilities include a football pitch and mini golf course. www.sijoriresort.com.sg
FARTHER AFIELD M-Hotel z \\\\
81 Anson Road, 079908 Tell 6224-1133 Fax

x 6222-0749 Rooms 413
A well-priced hotel with office suites for business travelers. The rooms, categorized into standard, superior, club, and
suite, are slightly larger than those on offer at most other places and tastefully furnished. The hotels contemporary
Caf 2000 serves all-day Western and Asian cuisine. www.millenniumhotels.com/
FARTHER AFIELD Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa Resort S:z7 \\\\
101 Siloso Road, Sentosa, 98870 Tell 6275-0100 Fax

x 6275-1055 Rooms 459
Located on the western tip of the island, on a quiet, palm-lined beach with white sands, this resort has an option
of sea-facing rooms with large balconies and exceptional views. Activities such as nature walks and cycling tours are
organized by the resort. www.shangri-la.com
FARTHER AFIELD The Sentosa Resort and Spa Sz7 \\\\\
2 Bukit Manis Road, Sentosa, 99891 Tell 6275-0331 Fax

x 6275-0228 Rooms 215
The resort is superbly situated with its pool facing the Strait of Malacca. There is a great outdoor restaurant, beautiful
tropical gardens with cozy nooks, covered walkways, and peacocks. The luxurious rooms have large balconies. A 130-
step beach stairway leads directly to the serene Tanjong Beach. www.thesentosa.com
\ under S$100 \\ S$100200 \\\ S$200300 \\\\ S$300400 \\\\\ over S$400
WHERE TO EAT
W ith their clever combinations
of textures and flavors, the
cuisines of Malaysia and
Singapore offer exciting dining discov-
eries for the visitor. Dishes of Malay,
whether it is a sumptuous restaurant in
a top hotel or a simple street stall in a
local market. Major centers such as
Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Kota Bharu,
Georgetown, and Malacca usually offer
Chinese, and Indian origin are widely a good variety, including Italian, French,
available, reflecting the three major com- Mexican, Vietnamese, and Japanese
munities that make up the population of eateries. However, even the smaller
the two countries. The type of restaurant towns have a decent choice of cuisines
varies but the quality is usually good, at remarkably cheap prices.
TYPES OF RESTAURAN
T TS big cities, serving superb local
delicacies, such as fish head
Though the cuisines available curry, sharks fin soup, and
in Malaysia and Singapore are freshly-caught fish.
amazingly varied, eateries are In the bigger tourist centers,
essentially of three types: such as Singapore, Kuala
street hawker stalls, kedai Lumpur, Sarawak, and Penang,
kopi, or coffee shops, and visitors can often combine a
restaurants that range from meal with a cultural show.
the simple to the lavish. The shows feature traditional
Street hawker stalls are not musicians and dancers, who
only the cheapest, with food perform during peak dinner
often as good as the best hour. Although some visitors Customers relaxing in a kedai kopi,
i
eateries, but also a real cul- may not enjoy or traditional coffee shop
tural experience a watching a per-
where most formance while choice of dish. The problem is
locals eat. Kedai dining, these shows not so much finding out what
kopii are no-frills offer short-stay is on offer but what to select.
neighborhood travelers a chance Menus are often organized
cafs that usually to experience a according to the main ingre-
offer a limited it of the local cul- dient, such as chicken, beef,
range of dishes at Satay,
y a popular ture. Prices at such pork (though Muslim restau-
cheap prices, but are Malay delicacy dining establish- rants do not serve pork at
not much by way of ments tend to be all), seafood, and vegetables.
service and ambience. higher than budget restaurants There is usually a small selec-
However, culinary standards with regular meal options. tion of individual meals, but
are reasonably high. most people tend to eat in
Restaurants vary from READING A MENU groups and choose a variety
simple shopfronts to establish- of food in order to sample
ments that serve gourmet Virtually all restaurants and more dishes. Portions are
food in elegant surroundings. coffee shops, and many relatively generous and for
The most expensive are the hawker stalls, display the a couple, three dishes will
restaurants in Kuala Lumpur names of the dishes they offer usually suffice.
and Singapore. Some excel- in English. If they dont have
lent seafood restaurants can English menus, it is accept- TABLE ETIQUETTE
be found in beach resorts and able to just point at your
Eating in restaurants where
food is not served on a single
plate in front of them may
be uncomfortable for some
people, but adapting to the
dining customs of Malaysia
and Singapore is not difficult.
Generally a fork and spoon
are the preferred eating
utensils, although chopsticks
are useful for noodle dishes.
Most Malay, Chinese, and
Indian food is cut into small
pieces, so a knife is not
required. Diners are presen-
ted with an individual plate
Lunchtime patrons at a food stall in Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur or bowl of rice, and expected
W H E R E T O E A T 293
to help themselves, a spoonful

at a time, from the bowls of
stir fried dishes, curries, soups,
and salads in the center of the
table. Seniority is important,
so when eating with locals, it
is advisable to wait for the
oldest member of the group
to help himself first.
RESERVAT
A IONS
Reservations are not generally

necessary except at the most
popular or upscale restau-
rants. Weekends can be busy, Fine dining in The Steakhouse, Hilton Kuching (see p306)
when most families go out for
a meal. People with special pay the bill. While tipping is VEGETARIANS
T
dietary needs should mention not common among locals in
it to the restaurant manager Malaysia and Singapore, as Despite the abundance of
before making a reservation. the bill almost always includes fresh fruit and vegetables
r
service tax and government available in markets through-
WINE AND DRINK tax, staff at restaurants in tour- out the region, it can often
ist areas have become used be difficult for vegetarians to
With the growth of tourism in to the custom. find items on a menu that do
Malaysia and Singapore, many not contain meat or seafood.
restaurants are beginning to STREET FOOD However, authentic Indian
serve alcoholic drinks. Muslim restaurants serve vegetarian
restaurants, however, serve Sampling street food is one dishes and all Chinese restau-
no alcohol at all. It is of the highlights of a visit to rants have at least one dish
generally easy to get a alaysia and Singapore, of mixed vegetables on their
beer or fresh fruit juice ot just because many menu. Little India in both
at hawker stalls. The ishes served at hawker Singapore and Kuala Lumpur
variety of exotic tropical stalls are unfamiliar to have a wide range of meal
fruits has an irresistible foreign visitors, but options for vegetarians. Most
appeal, and many also because the food hawker stalls prepare food
restaurants and food is generally prepared on the spot, so dishes can
stalls use them to with great expertise. be cooked without meat
concoct shakes and Another advantage of upon request.
smoothies. Tuak, or hawker stalls is that it
rice wine, is brewed in Champagne is possible to sample EAT
A ING WITH CHILDREN
the longhouses of and wine Malay, Chinese, and
Sabah and Sarawak, Indian cuisine in just There are no restrictions on
but visitors should note that one sitting. Most of the stalls children entering restaurants
it is extremely potent. are inexpensive and special- in Malaysia and Singapore; in
ize in just one rice or noodle fact, in most places they are
P
PAYMEN T AND TIPPING dish, along with satay. Those welcome. Some restaurants
called cze char, or pick-and- offer special childrens meals.
Few restaurants, apart from mix, however, offer a range Mild Chinese soups and rice
mid-range and top-end hotels, of items on their menu, includ- dishes are best for those
accept credit cards, so it is ing meatballs, spring rolls, unaccustomed to spicy food.
best to carry sufficient cash to tofu, and stuffed chilies. High standards of food prepa-
ration and quality control are
maintained, yet care should
be taken as children traveling
here could be prone to food
and water-related ailments.
SMOKING
Smoking is prohibited in
enclosed, air-conditioned envi-
ronments, which comprise
two-thirds of the restaurants
in Malaysia and Singapore.
However, about one-third of
the eateries have a terrace or
Hawkers displaying a variety of food at a cze char in Sibu, Sarawak outdoor smoking area.
The Flavors of Malay Cuisine

Malaysians and Singaporeans live to eat, so it is not
surprising that markets offer an abundance of fresh
tropical fruit and vegetables, meat, and seafood.
Mounds of cabbages, eggplants, mangoes, and pine-
apples are stacked up beside bowls of dried shrimp
and fresh crabs, slabs of beef, and marinated ducks.
Some stalls specialize in types of rice, the staple of
Malay cuisine; others in flavorings and pastes, such
as rempah and belacan, essential to Malay cooking.
Though many dishes are unknown outside the region, Galangal, lemongrass, and
satayy has become a worldwide favorite. birds-eye chilies
selection of toppings (nasi mee rebus, both of which are

campur). It is also some- usually served with scrump-
times enhanced with coconut tious spicy sauce.
milk (santan), in nasi lemak.
Noodles may be made REMPAH AND SAMBAL
from wheat, wheat and egg,
rice, or mung beans and are The carefully blended
served fried or as a soup seasoning pastes are the
with vegetables and meat secret to the mouth-watering
or seafood. Typical Malay flavors of Malay food. The
noodle dishes are laksa and most widely used paste is
Jambu air (water apple) Betik Limau
Kaktus madu
Stall at the Chow Kit fish market,

Kuala Lumpur
NASI AND MEE
Rice (nasi) and noodles (mee)

form the basis of any Malay
meal, though the preparation
of both is almost as varied
as the sauces, broths, and
curries that accompany them.
Rice may be served fried,
steamed, glutinous, or boiled
into bubur, a savoury soup
or porridge. It is commonly
steamed, and eaten with a
MALAY DISHES AND SPECIALTIES

Breakfast can be almost anything in
Malaysia and Singapore, but a couple
of favorites are laksa (spicy noodle
soup) and nasi lemak (a rice dish).
Lunch is usually a one-dish meal,
which might easily be nasi campur
or mee goreng. Dinner generally
brings family groups or friends
ether to share a variety of classic
Malay dishes, such as satayy (spicy
meat skewers with a peanut sauce), rendang, and ayam
panggangg (chicken marinated with garlic and lime,
grilled and served with a hot sambal).l This is likely to
be followed by an ais kacangg or a plate of fresh fruit. Mee goreng are yellow
Constantly passionate about food, locals dont miss out on a noodles, stir-fried with vege-
late-night supper, indulging in anything from a steaming hot tables and meat, fish, or tofu,
bowl of rice soup to a plate of barbecued chicken wings. and garnished with lime.
ingredients that are usual

in Malay food, such as pork
and duck, using Chinese
cooking techniques but add-
ing elements of Portuguese,
Indian, and Thai cuisine. A
typical Peranakan dish is mee
siam, or fine rice noodles in
a spicy, sweet-sour gravy.
Visitors to Malaysian Borneo
V
can sample local specialties
such as linutt (in Sarawak)
and ambuyatt (in Sabah),
both translucent pastes made
of sago starch, paku (jungle
ferns), and jarukk (wild boar
mixed with salt and rice and
A woman selling fruit and other produce at a market in Kota Belud cooked in a bamboo tube).
rempah, for which garlic, Bornean and Peranakan, or REGIONAL LAKSAS

lemongrass, shallots, galangal, Straits Chinese, food are the
Every state has its own version
and ginger are pounded in a most distinctive. In Malaysia, of this noodle soup, a national
mortar. Cinnamon, coriander Peranakan cuisine came into favorite, including:
seeds, cloves, and pepper- existence when Chinese
corns are added to thicken traders settled in the region Asam laksa From the Penang
curries, or are fried in oil and married local Nonya region, this uses tamarind to
until fragrant before being women. They combined give a sour edge, as well as
flaked fish, wild ginger buds,
added to meat or vegetables. spicy Malay pastes with and belacan. Pineapple is
Samball is a chili paste shredded for a sweet garnish.
that is served as a side dish.
Sambal ulekk is a blend of Laksa Johor A very rich fish
chili, salt, and vinegar, while laksa flavored with coconut
the hugely popular sambal milk, cumin, coriander seeds,
and turmeric. It is garnished
belacan is made of chili, salt, with cucumber, bean sprouts,
and sugar pounded with and Vietnamese mint.
fermented shrimp paste, and
served with a wedge of lime. Sarawak laksa This features
chicken, and prawns in tangy
PERANAKAN AND kalamansii lime. Toasted rice
and coconut give the soup a
BORNEAN CUISINE brownish color.
Malay cuisine is influenced Singapore laksa Deep-fried
by Chinese, Indian, Thai, anchovies, belacan, and
Indonesian, and other cul- coconut milk are used to
tures, but there are several Grilling satay
y at the Gurney Drive
make a rich, sour soup that
is topped with fish cakes.
regional variations, of which hawker center in Penang
Rendang, influenced by k, found around

Laksa lemak Ais kacang is a vivid dessert
Indonesian cuisine, is a Kuala Lumpur and known concoction of shaved ice
fiery, dry curry made with as curry laksa, features with syrup, jelly, corn, red
chicken, mutton, or beef. prawns, tofu, and egg. beans, and evaporated milk.
The Flavors of Malay-Chinese Cuisine

The Chinese had been trading in the region for cent
it was not until the 19th century that immigrants be
tling in large numbers, attracted by tin- and gold-m
and plantation agriculture. The greatest concentrati
of settlers was in Singapore, where Chinese cuisine
still predominates, though its influence is apparent
throughout Malaysia. In Malay cuisine, rice and
noodles are a staple in most meals, of which the
latter is a major Chinese import. Key elements in a
regional variations of Chinese food are the use of
fresh produce and the balance of tastes and texture
Deep-fried bean-curd is a called peasant food, is still
Hakka specialty, and pork the source of delicate spring
(especially belly) is the rolls. Noodles are found
preferred meat. in many dishes, such as
Hainanese food features Hokkien mee, thick wheat
fresh ingredients and the noodles stir-fried with
sparing use of spices. It has seafood or pork.
given Malaysia and Singapore Teochew cuisine, from
one of their most common Chiuchow, is famed for
dishes Hainanese chicken muayy porridge a pale rice
rice, garnished with cucum- broth served with side
ber, and chili and ginger dishes of crayfish, salted
dips. Hokkien, sometimes eggs, and vegetables.
Frying street snacks in

Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur
REGIONAL INFLUENCES
The Chinese food found in

Malaysia and Singapore is
usually Cantonese, which is
noted for its mild flavorings
and specialties such as
dim sum (steamed or fried
filled dumplings).
Hakka cuisine, from the
provinces of Guangdong
and Fujian, mixes fresh and
preserved ingredients. p g p yp
ON THE CHINESE MENU

Bak kut teh (Hokkien) Lou ark (Teochew)
Pork rib soup. Braised duck.
Cao fan (Cantonese) Fried rice. Lui char fan (Hakka)
Rice porridge with ground
Char kway teow (Hokkien) peanuts, sweet potato leaves,
Spicy flat rice noodles with peppercorns, and mint.
cockles, sausage, and egg in
soy sauce. Pai quat (Cantonese) Steamed
pork ribs with black beans.
Cha siew mee (Cantonese)
Egg noodles in soup with Sek bak (Hokkien) Pork belly
minced pork dumplings. in spicy black bean sauce.
Chee cheong fun (Hokkien) Sha bou fan (Cantonese) Rice
Rice flour rolls stuffed with in a claypot with chicken, sau-
shrimp or pork. sage, salted fish, and soy sauce.
Aromatic soup of pork ribs, shiitake Hay mee (Hokkien) Prawn Siew mai (Cantonese) Minced
mushrooms, and coriander and pork rib noodle soup. pork wrapped in dumplings.
The Flavors of Malay-Indian Cuisine

The main period of Indian immigration was the
19th century, when laborers were shipped across
to work on rubber plantations operated by the
British. Most were Hindus from southern India and,
like the Chinese, they became a major influence on
Malay cuisine. Although rice is a staple, Indian food
is also characterized by its use of pulses and various
types of flatbread, such as roti, naan, and chapati.
The most commonly used flavorings are chili, cumin,
garam masala, coriander, mustard seed, turmeric,
yogurt, coconut, and ghee.
In contrast to the emphasis MAMAK CUISINE
on bread and meat in the
northern Indian diet, south- A third type of Indian food
ern Indian food is always frequently found in Malaysia
accompanied by rice and is that produced by Indian
many vegetarian dishes. Muslims. These dishes are
Despite the hotter climate, mostly sold at hawker stalls,
dishes from south India and include mee goreng
tend to be spicy and are (spicy-fried noodles), rojak
distinguished by the liberal (deep-fried vegetables and
use of coconut milk, lentils, seafood in a sweet and
and curry leaves. The thali spicy sauce), and mee rebus
is a popular southern Indian (a mix of yellow noodles
meal, comprising small and beansprouts in a sweet
portions of a variety of potato gravy, topped with
Baskets of chilies in the market at dishes and condiments. a boiled egg).
Langkawi, Malaysia
Fish in coconut Mung bean dal Chickpea Banana chutney
NORTH AND SOUTH
Northern Indian cuisine is

characterized by the use of
dairy products to make rich,
thick sauces. Many dishes
are baked in a cylindrical
clay oven called a tandoor;
these include naan breads
and the famous Tandoori
chicken, now enjoyed
worldwide. Breads are
eaten in preference to rice.
NDIAN FAVORITES IN MALAYSIA

om early morning, cooks at roti
lls throughout Malaysia can be
en spinning dough into a flat disk,
ding it in on itself, then frying it
a griddle to make roti canai,
hich can either be dipped in a
wl of curry sauce or sprinkled
with sugar for a less spicy breakfast.
At lunchtime, one of the most popular dishes sold at
Indian Muslim hawker stalls is the vegetarian mee rebus.
For dinner, among the many delicious and filling options
are biryani and a thali. The former has a base of
seasoned rice cooked with saffron, nuts, and vegetables,
and is served with meat or seafood, and vegetables. The
latter consists of a tray or banana leaf, laden with
vegetable, fish, or meat curries, pulses (dal), pickles, and Lamb biryani,
i fragrant with
yogurt (raita), as well as rice, breads, or poppadoms. saffron and other spices
Choosing a Restaurant PRICE CATEGORIES

The prices are based upon a
three-course meal for one and a non-
These restaurants have been selected for their food, alcoholic drink, and are inclusive of
good value, and location. They are listed alphabetically service charges (10%) and taxes (5%).
Under RM25
by region, beginning with Kuala Lumpur, and then by RM25RM50
price. Price bands for Singapore are on pages 308, 311, RM50RM100
and 313. Map references for Kuala Lumpur refer to maps RM100RM150
Over RM150
on pp7885 and for Singapore to maps on pp258-67.
KUALA
U L UMPUR
U U
AMPANG Tamarind Springs 7) f
Jalan 1, Taman Tun Abdul Razak, Ampang, Selangor, 68000 Tel (03) 4256-9300
A scented candle-lit path leads up to this delightful restaurant, which may be a little difficult to find as it is set at the
edge of a jungle. Delicious Lao, Vietnamese, and Cambodian dishes are served in an intimate environment. There is
another branch of the restaurant in Tamarind Hill, also in Ampang, and one on Pulau Tioman.
BANGSAR La Bodega 7)
16 Jalan Telawi Dua, Bangsar Baru, Kuala Lumpur, 59100 Tel (03) 2287-8318
Started as a tapas bar, La Bodega has expanded to include a bistro, deli, and a cigar lounge. The excellent Spanish
menu offers an extensive array of tapas, paellas as well as a selection of contemporary Catalan dishes. Sangrias and
a comprehensive wine list complement the food. There are a number of branches throughout Kuala Lumpur.
BANGSAR Opus Bistro 7
67 Jalan Bangkung, Bukit Bandaraya, Near Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur, 59100 Tel (03) 2092-4288
Situated in a quiet suburban location, close to Bangsars entertainment hub, Opus Bistro offers a healthy selection of
Italian and Pan-European dishes. The grilled cod, served with a variety of sauces, is one of the specialties. Desserts are
mostly Italian cakes and pastries and there is a variety of well-chosen wines with several available by the glass.
BANGSAR Telawi Street Bistro 7)
13 Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar Baru, Kuala Lumpur, 59100 Tel (03) 2284-3168
Located in one of Kuala Lumpurs trendiest suburbs, this restaurant, with a dining area on the lower floor and a
bar upstairs, is very popular with the young crowd. The menu comprises contemporary Western cuisine with dishes
such as rocket salad, prawn bisque, cod with norii (seaweed) wrap, and rack of lamb.
BUKIT BINTANG
T Sao Nam 7
25 Tengkat Tong Shin, Kuala Lumpur, 50200 Tel (03) 2144-1225 Map 5 B2
The contemporary Sao Nam is arguably one of the best venues in Kuala Lumpur for Vietnamese cuisine. It is so
popular with the citys chic urban crowd that guests not only reserve tables but also specific dishes, such as the
prawn and mangosteen salad. A second branch has opened in Plaza Damas, Jalan Sri Hartamas.
BUKIT BINTANG
T Prego 7)
The Westin Kuala Lumpur, 199 Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, 55100 Tel (03) 2731-8333 Map 5 C3
To sample modern interpretations of Italian favorites, Prego at The Westin (see p273) is a good option. There are
two levels of indoor dining, with a wood-fired pizza oven on the ground floor, as well as tables set out on the
pavement. There is also a well-balanced wine list. The Sunday champagne brunch is one of the best in the city.
BUKIT BINTANG
T Shook! 7)f
1st Floor, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, 55100 Tel (03) 2719-8535 Map 5 C3
Located in the chic Starhill shopping mall, Shook! has a hip, minimalist ambience, good food, and live jazz. The
menu features four types of cuisine that are prepared in four separate show kitchens. A dazzling array of
Japanese, Chinese, Italian, and Western grilled dishes are offered with an equally extensive wine list.
BUKIT BINTANG
T Eest 7
The Westin Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, 55100 Tel (03) 2773-8013 Map 5 C3
Hailed by the Cond Nast Travelerr magazine as one of the worlds trendiest restaurants, Eest at The Westin (see
p273) is a pan-Asian restaurant, which features Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, and Malaysian cuisine. The
dishes have a seafood emphasis and a good dim sum selection is offered.
BUKIT BINTANG
T Third Floor 7)
3rd Floor, JW Marriott Hotel, 183 Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, 55100 Tel (03) 2141-3363 Map 5 C3
This restaurant at the JW Marriott Hotel (see p273) has established itself as a must visit for those seeking fine food.
Great care is taken to prepare exquisite dishes that include quail stuffed with prawn mousse, snow crab wrapped
in brick pastry, and date and pecan pie. Excellent wines complement the food.

CHINATO
A WN Old China Caf 7
11 Jalan Balai Polis, Kuala Lumpur, 50000 Tel (03) 2072-5915 Map 4 F4
Tucked away from the main action of Jalan Petaling is this historic Chinese caf that was once the headquarters of
the laundrymens association. Sepia photographs and bric--brac add to the old-world charm at this eatery. Hearty
Nonya food is served here, including ayam pong teh, a chicken and potato dish in fermented soya bean gravy.
CHOW KIT Celestial Court 7
Sheraton Imperial Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, 50250 Tel (03) 2717-9900 Map 1 A4
This stylish Chinese restaurant at the Sheraton Imperial (see p273) with a grand pagoda-style faade offers fantastic
Cantonese food. Seafood dishes dominate the menu and the dim sum is considered not only one of the citys best
but also one of the most imaginative. The restaurant does not serve any pork.
CHOW KIT CoChine 7)
Asian Heritage Row, Jalan Doraisamy, Kuala Lumpur, 50300 Tel (03) 2697-1180 Map 1 B4
Located in a renovated shophouse, CoChine offers splendid Vietnamese, Lao, and Khmer cuisine. A must-have
is the CoChine Platter, which consists of fried spring rolls and uncooked rice-paper duck rolls. There is an extensive
salad selection including the popular pomelo and prawn salad. There is also a smart bar downstairs.
CHOW KIT Villa Danieli 7)
Sheraton Imperial Kuala Lumpur, Level 5, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, 50250 Tel (03) 2717-9922 Map 1 A4
An elegant trattoria at the Sheraton Imperial (see p273), Villa Danieli serves traditional Italian cuisine with many
dishes prepared in a wood-fired oven to maintain the authentic flavor. The restaurants poolside location makes
outdoor dining an attractive option. Wines are taken seriously, with one table even situated within the open cellar.
DAMANSARA Sandias 7
44 Plaza Damansara, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Bukit Damansara, Damansara, 50490 Tel (03) 2095-8431
With its cozy atmosphere Sandias provides the ideal setting for savoring traditional homestyle Mexican cooking.
Among the top choices in the appetizer selection is the starter platter with tortillas and quesadillas accompanied by
guacamole and several dipping sauces. For the main course, try the turkey served with chilli chocolate sauce.
DAMANSARA SOULed Out 7)f
20 Jalan 30/70A, Desa Sri Hartamas, Kuala Lumpur, 50480 Tel (03) 2300-1955
Flourishing for over a decade, SOULed Out is a winning combination of a restaurant and a bar, offering a fantastic
atmosphere, hearty cuisine, and excellent beverages. It is a sprawling venue and attracts an eclectic mix of patrons.
Tables under the aerodynamic white canopies are the best in the house.
THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE Hakka 7
6 Jalan Kia Peng, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Tel (03) 2143-1907 Map 6 D1
A 50-year old veteran of the Kuala Lumpur food scene, this eatery serves Hakka cuisine which is originally from
Chinas Guangdong and Fujian provinces, and is typically home-cooked, simple, and satisfying. The service might
not be fancy but well-prepared dishes such as country chicken and yong tau foo make for a pleasant meal.
THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE Bijan 7)
3 Jalan Ceylon, Kuala Lumpur, 50200 Tel (03) 2031-3575 Map 5 A2

This is one of the few upscale restaurants in the capital to serve Malay cuisine. It stands out among the hawker
stalls that are usually the venues to savor Malay food. Housed in a bungalow with bright burgundy walls, Bijan
serves innovative dishes and creative desserts such as cendoll ice cream. They also have a reasonable wine list.
THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE Chalet 7)f
Hotel Equatorial Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, 50250 Tel (03) 2161-7777 Map 1 A4
Furnished in alpine wood, the Chalet at Hotel Equatorial (see p274) exudes elegance and serves fine Swiss cuisine.
The menu includes hot and cold hors doeuvres, soups, and fondue, as well as classic meat, poultry, and seafood
dishes. An extensive beverage selection, especially wines, complements the food.
THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE Dynasty 7
Renaissance Kuala Lumpur Hotel, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur , 50450 Tel (03) 2162-2233 Map 1 C5
This is the Chinese restaurant at the Renaissance Hotel (see p274). Dynastyy serves authentic Cantonese food and their
signature dish is suckling pig. Other delicacies, such as abalone, shark-fin soup, and birds-nest soup are also available,
but tend to be expensive. Dim sum lunch is served during the day and on weekends, and queues are not uncommon.
THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE Ishq 7)
Main Lobby, Crowne Plaza Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, 50250 Tel (03) 2144-3440 Map 1 A4
This contemporary eatery in the Crowne Plaza Hotel (see p274) serves modern Asian food with an emphasis on
Thai, Cambodian, Lao, and Kashmiri cuisine. Diners can eat indoors or alfresco in a secluded garden area.
There is also an adjoining bar, comfortably furnished in a blend of French-Colonial and Indo-Chinese styles.
THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE Lafite 7)
Shangri-La Hotel Kuala Lumpur, 11 Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, 50250 Tel (03) 2032-2388 Map 1 A4
This is arguably one of the citys best French nouvelle cuisine restaurants. Glamorous interiors and impeccable
service perfectly complement the innovative fare. An extensive wine list, featuring premium and reserve
vintages, and cigars from around the world are also offered.
THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE La Terrasse 7
33 Jalan Berangan, Kuala Lumpur, 50200 Tel (03) 2145-4964 Map 5 C2

For traditional home-style French food, served in a relaxed, casual atmosphere, La Terrasse is the ideal venue. Classic
dishes such as braised pork and coq au vin are just some of the specialties on offer. Wines can be selected
from a superb collection at the adjoining Tastevin Cellars. They also have a great Sunday champagne brunch.
THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE Le Bouchon 7
14 and 16 Changkat Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, 50200 Tel (03) 2142-7633 Map 5 B2
Traditional and authentically prepared French food and a high level of service are the hallmarks of this fine
restaurant. The ambience is elegant and cozy, reminiscent of a rustic French country home. Wines are taken
seriously here and a wide range, from Margaux to Margaret River, is available. Le Bouchon does not serve any pork.
THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE NiroVivo 7)
3A Jalan Ceylon, Kuala Lumpur, 50200 Tel (03) 2070-3120 Map 5 A2

This trendy Italian eatery has an extensive menu featuring authentic and creative regional Italian specialties that
include salads, pastas, and main courses of meat and fish. An option of alfresco dining offers splendid views of
Menara KL (see p74). There is a superb selection of well-priced wines with an Italian bias.
KLCC Bombay Palace 7
215 Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Tel (03) 2145-4241 Map 1 A1
Superb northern Indian cuisine, including a range of tandoori dishes, such as tikkas, tandoori chicken,
and tandoori prawns, are featured at this restaurant. Regular diners rave about the biryani, a seasoned rice dish,
Kashmiri naan, a type of bread stuffed with dried fruit, and the garlic kulcha, a deep-fried bread.
KLCC Chinoz on The Park 7)
Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Center, Kuala Lumpur, 50200 Tel (03) 2166-8277 Map 2 F5
A landmark restaurant within a landmark building, Chinoz was once the pinnacle of high society cafs. It still
remains one of the most upmarket eateries in Kuala Lumpur where patrons order from an extensive menu of
international dishes including steaks, pasta, seafood, and gourmet sandwiches. They also feature a good wine list.
KLCC Prime Grill Room 7)
11th Floor, Crown Princess Hotel, Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur, 50400 Tel (03) 2162-5522 Map 1 A1
Classic international favorites, including steaks and oysters as well as dishes prepared with seasonal ingredients,
define the Prime Grill Room. The restaurant has a retro ambience and the show kitchens offer a glimpse of the
chefs at work. The Australian wine list is excellent and reasonably priced.
KLCC The Taj 7f
Crown Princess Hotel, Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur, 50400 Tel (03) 2162-5522 Map 1 A1
This is one of the best formal northern Indian restaurants in the city and has won many awards. The large bay
windows offer a wonderful view of the city and it is worth reserving a window table. Among the popular northern
Indian food served here are delectable tandoori dishes.
KLCC Top Hat 7)
7 Jalan Kia Peng, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Tel (03) 2142-8611 Map 6 D1
Located in a 1930s bungalow set in sprawling gardens, Top Hat offers delightful views of the Petronas Towers,
especially in the evening. The menu features la carte and set Nonya, Malay, Thai, and Western meals, as well
as a selection of vegetarian dishes. The wine list is very good and the delicious desserts are not to be missed.
KLCC Cilantro 7)
MiCasa All Suite Hotel, Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur, 50400 Tel (03) 2179-8000 Map 1 A1
Possibly the citys finest restaurant, housed in the MiCasa Hotel (see p275), Cilantros tranquil atmosphere is perfect
for enjoying a Japanese or French meal. Their signature dishes include steamed seabass with prawns and nantua
sauce, a rich cream sauce, and pan-fried unagi, or eel, with foie gras. Fridays set lunch requires early reservations.
KLCC Lai Po Heen 7
Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur, Kuala Lumpur City Center, Kuala Lumpur, 50088 Tel (03) 2179-8883 Map 2 E5
Located in the Mandarin Oriental (see p275), Lai Po Heen echoes the hotels opulent decor and serves classic
Cantonese cuisine. Creatively presented dishes are prepared in glass-fronted kitchens and include e-fu noodles,
steamed rice-paper chicken, and durian pancakes. The pork-free dim sum is very popular.
KLCC Still Waters 7
Hotel Maya Kuala Lumpur, 138 Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Tel (03) 2711-8866 Map 1 C5
This restaurant at Hotel Maya (see p275) serves contemporary Japanese cuisine with a modern interpretation that
borrows from other Asian as well as Western cuisines. Dishes such as grilled lamb chops with truffle miso exemplify
the restaurants signature style. They also have a good wine list and there is an adjoining martini bar.
KLCC Med@Marche 7)f
Renaissance Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Tel (03) 2162-2233 Map 1 C5
Mediterranean dishes with a modern twist is the theme at Med@Marche at the Renaissance Kuala Lumpur Hotel (see
p274). Enjoy creations such as foie gras with aniseed and peppercorns and venison cooked in brown ale. They also
have a smart bar playing great music. A walk-in cellar stocks wines from Europe, America, and Australia.
PETALING
T JAYA Suchan 7
1 Jalan Dato Mahmud (11/4), off Jalan University, Petaling Jaya, Selangor, 46200 Tel (03) 7957-9908
Although the restaurant may be a little difficult to find, its good-value food makes it worth seeking out. The cuisine
is a fusion of Eastern and Western flavors and the menu also offers set meals. The afternoon teas, coffees, and cakes
are delicious. Although alcohol is not served here, guests can bring their own wine.
PETALING
T JAYA Out of Africa 7)
1 Lorong Sultan (inside Kelab Syabas), Petaling Jaya, Selangor, 46200 Tel (03) 7955-3432
This restaurant offers the experience of the hearty home-style food of South Africa. For over a decade it has built
its reputation on superb creations, especially its authentic braaii dishes, a type of South African barbecue. They
have a good selection of South African wines and also an in-house bar, the Kudu Bar.
PETALING
T JAYA Avanti
A 7f
Sunway Resort Hotel and Spa, Bandar Sunway, Petaling Jaya, Selangor, 46150 Tel (03) 7492-8000
The menu at this Italian restaurant includes favorites, such as pizzas and pasta dishes, as well as novel preparations
such as the signature dish maltagliatii with lobster ragout. A reasonable wine selection is offered. There is a good
Sunday brunch and Avantis location within a water theme park also makes it an enjoyable family day out.
PETALING
T JAYA Genji 7
Hilton Petaling Jaya, 2 Jalan Barat, Petaling Jaya, Selangor, 46200 Tel (03) 7955-9122
A well-known Japanese restaurant, Genji offers a good balance of traditional and creative dishes. A teppan suite
and six tatamii rooms offer the option of private dining. The sushi bar is good for quick meals of beef rolls, noodle
dishes, and black codfish. A good variety of sake, beer, and wine is available.
SENTRAL Al Nafourah 7f
Le Meridien Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Stesen Sentral, Kuala Lumpur, 50470 Tel (03) 2263-7888 Map 3 C5
Stylish Arabian-inspired decor, including private dining tents, provides an exotic ambience. An extensive menu of
Lebanese, Middle Eastern, and Mediterranean dishes is served here, including enormous hot and cold mezze
dishes, which are almost a meal in themselves. Belly dancers provide nightly entertainment.
SENTRAL Prime 7)
Le Meridien Kuala Lumpur, Level 5, 2 Jalan Stesen Sentral, Kuala Lumpur, 50470 Tel (03) 2263-7555 Map 3 C5
This is the premier international beef restaurant in the city. Although it resembles a traditional steakhouse, it has
some nice contemporary touches, such as high-backed leather chairs. Wines are taken seriously and aged beef from
Argentina, Australia, and the USA are the specialties. Try the Kobe and Wagyu for a truly subliminal culinary journey.
SENTRAL Senses 7)
Hilton Kuala Lumpur, 3 Jalan Stesen Sentral, Kuala Lumpur, 50470 Tel (03) 2264-2264 Map 3 C5
For anyone who enjoys creative cuisine, Senses offers a fusion of Eastern and Western cuisine based on guidance
of their famous consultant chef, Cheong Liew. The signature dish is Cheongs legendary creation Four Dances of
the Sea. The wine list is superb and the current direction in the kitchen is molecular gastronomy.
SERI KEMBANGAN Kim Ma 7
Palace of the Golden Horses, Mines Resort City, Jalan Kuda Emas, Selangor, 43300 Tel (03) 8943-2333
The restaurant has been decorated in Tang Dynasty style with splashes of red, the Chinese color of prosperity.
Good Cantonese cuisine is served here and while the menu is predominantly traditional, a few contemporary
interpretations, such as stir-fried tiger prawns with coconut milk and cheese, are also included.
SUBANG JAYA The Emperor 7
Sheraton Subang Hotel and Towers, Jalan SS12/1, Subang Jaya, Selangor, 47500 Tel (03) 5031-6060
Classy and spacious surroundings combined with outstanding food makes this restaurant at the Sheraton Subang
Hotel and Towers (see p275) worth a visit. While most dishes are cooked in Cantonese style, a few Szechuan options
are also available. The menu also includes some unique ostrich and venison preparations.
T SIK PERDANA Ka Soh

TA 7
136 Jalan Kaah, Medan Damansara, Kuala Lumpur, 50490 Tel (03) 2093-0905
This no-frills Chinese restaurant has a bustling atmosphere and offers value-for-money meals. Guests can choose
from an extensive non-halall menu featuring over 100 items, which includes the unmissable butter prawns
and honey pork. Ka Soh has a branch on Jalan Bukit Bintang and one in the Mid Valley Megamall.
T SIK PERDANA Klimts House

TA 7
65 Jalan Batai, Damansara Heights, Kuala Lumpur, 50490 Tel (03) 2092-1978
A small Austrian restaurant tucked away in Damansara, Klimts House is a family-run establishment that offers
personalized service and hearty food. The menu features home-cooked Continental cuisine and includes mushroom
soup, schnitzel, rainbow trout, and strudel. Colorful prints of Gustav Klimts work decorate the restaurant.
T SIK PERDANA The Dining Room

TA 7)f
Carcosa Seri Negara, Lake Gardens, Kuala Lumpur, 50480 Tel (03) 2295-0888 Map 3 B3
Situated in the historic Carcosa Seri Negara (see p275), this majestic restaurant offers a dining experience in
unrivalled colonial elegance. The cuisine is French, and there is a tasting menu as well as an international la carte
selection. The English afternoon teas are very popular with Kuala Lumpurs high society.
NORTHWEST
O S PENINSULA
S
CAMERON HIGHLANDS Bunga Suria
Jalan Camellia 3, Tanah Rata, 39000 Tel (05) 491-4343

This is a friendly and clean south Indian restaurant serving both vegetarian and non-vegetarian cuisine. The masala
dosa, a crispy pancake, and rava dosa are delicious, as are the mutton and chicken samosas. Thalis, a selection of
small dishes, are excellent value for money. Soft idlis, steamed rice cakes, with spiced tea make a good breakfast.
CAMERON HIGHLANDS Ye Olde Smokehouse 7)
Tanah Rata, 39007 Tel (05) 491-1215

The in-house restaurant of the Ye Olde Smokehouse hotel (see p276) serves traditional English fare such as roast
beef, Yorkshire pudding, steak and kidney pie, and Cornish pasties. Apple pie and pudding with custard and other
classic desserts round off a splendid meal. Afternoon teas include scones with fresh cream and strawberry jam.
GENTING HIGHLANDS Kampung )
Genting Hotel, Pahang, 69000 Tel (03) 2718-1118

Located in Malaysias most expensive hill station, this enduringly popular Malay restaurant offers surprisingly good
value for money. An excellent la carte menu is available, but the real draw are the reasonably priced buffet lunch
and dinner that allow guests to sample an extensive array of traditional delicacies.
IPOH FMS Restaurant )
Jalan Sultan Idris Shah, 30000 Tel (05) 253 7678

This is one of the best Chinese restaurants in Ipoh. Set in an attractive old shoplot, FMSs specialties are its seafood
dishes. Choices include prawns, soft shell crab, rock lobster, and squid. They also serve tofu dishes. Wine is available
at the small bar although the selection is limited.
PENANG Nyonya Baba Cuisine
Nagore Road, Georgetown, 10050 Tel (04) 227-8035

Well-known for its authentic Nonya cuisine, this restaurant is run out of the front room of a traditional Penang home.
The meals are prepared by the owner while the family helps with the service. Recommended dishes include the
Kapitan curry with a crunchy texture from fried shallots, and otak otak, a fish souffl steamed in a banana leaf.
PENANG Restoran Kapitan
Lebuh Chulia, Georgetown, 10200 Tel (04) 264-1191

This busy 24-hour Indian restaurant with highly efficient service is very popular with the locals. Their distinctive
menu includes northern Indian biryani, and tandoori dishes, as well as naans, parathas, and other Indian breads.
The Kapitan curry, a rich chicken dish, is recommended, as is the lassi, a yogurt drink.
PENANG Secret Garden )
Lebuh Chulia, Georgetown, 10200 Tel (04) 262-9996

This restaurant offers healthy international cuisine at budget prices. Only natural ingredients are used to prepare
the food. Everything on the menu is made from scratch, including the wholemeal bread and cakes. Big Western
breakfasts are available all day. Diners have free Internet access and a free movie is shown every night.
PENANG Hong Kong Restaurant )
Lebuh Cintra, Georgetown, 10100 Tel (04) 261-5409

A very popular place, this restaurant specializes in seafood and a wide selection of dim sum. Most of the seafood,
which can be selected live from fish tanks, is familiar but there are also some less common types such as abalone
and dragon prawns. Drinks include Guinness and iced beer.
PENANG Ferringhi Garden )
Jalan Batu Ferringhi, Batu Ferringhi, 11100 Tel (04) 881-1193

One of the most upmarket restaurants in Batu Ferringhi (see p108), Ferringhi Garden serves Western and Asian
dishes. While the chefs expertise lies in seafood and steaks, they also serve Malay cuisine, including Penang chicken
curry and spicy Malay king prawns. There is a reasonable selection of wine and tempting international desserts.
PULAU LANGKAWI Matahari 7)
Pantai Tengah, 07000 Tel (04) 995-6200

An elegant Malay restaurant, Matahari, meaning the sun, serves a wide range of authentic local specialties, said to
be prepared by local village cooks. Diners may eat their meal sitting cross-legged on rustic mats, which is the
traditional practice. Western dishes and seafood are also available.
PULAU LANGKAWI Prawn Village
Kuah, 07000 Tel (04) 966-6866

Catering mainly to visitors from the mainland, this Kuah eatery serves tasty Cantonese food. Seafood dishes are the
specialty here and among the signature dishes listed on the menu are crab, prawn, lobster, and imported abalone.
The sweet and sour seabass is good enough to receive praise from The Guardian, a British newspaper.
PULAU LANGKAWI Bon Ton

T )
Pantai Cenang, 07000 Tel (04) 955-6787

The uber-chic restaurant within this intimate resort offers creative west meets spice cuisine. Nothing is left to
chance stylish cocktails, designer ambience, imaginative wines, and hip cuisine, all combine to make a visit to
Bon Ton one of Malaysias most enjoyable experiences.
PULAU PANGKOR T
Takana Juo
Teluk Nipah, 32300 Tel (05) 685-4733

Simple and friendly, this Indonesian restaurant appeals to budget travelers and young locals from the mainland who
visit the island on the weekends. Excellently prepared Indonesian favorites such as nasi goreng, or fried rice, chicken
and beef satay, y gado gado salad with peanut sauce, and mee goreng, or fried noodles, can be savored here.
PULAU PANGKOR Uncle Lims
Pangkor Laut, 32200 Tel (05) 699-1100

This restaurant occupies a beautiful spot atop a rocky outcrop overlooking the Strait of Malacca. Chef Uncle Lim
has been creating fine Nonya as well as Hockchew dishes, a cuisine from Chinas Fuzhou province, at this eponymous
restaurant, since its inception. Fresh seafood dishes are particularly good here.
T
TAIPING T
Tops Thai )
Jalan Boo Bee, 34000 Tel (05) 808-6296

Both Thai and Chinese cuisine are served at this restaurant. The Thai food is standard fare from central Thailand, with
highlights including delicious tom yam gung, or prawns in a spicy sauce, and gai pat met mamuang, or chicken with
cashew nuts. As with most non-Malay establishments, alcohol, mainly beer, is served here.
SO
SOUTHERN PENINSULA
S
JOHOR BAHRU IT Roo Caf
17 Jalan Dhoby, 80000 Tel (07) 222-7780

This is a simple, bright, and modern caf that serves cheap but delicious Chinese and Western dishes. It claims to
cook the best chicken in town along with a variety of quick but satisfying meals, including soups, sandwiches, sweet
and sour chicken, and various rice and noodle options.
JOHOR BAHRU Restoran Alif Laila
57 Jalan Meldrum, 80000 Tel (07) 226-0445

This excellent-value, 24-hour Indian-Muslim restaurant is crowded with locals throughout the day, occasionally
making it difficult to find a seat, especially at lunch. The air-conditioned interior has a pleasing old-fashioned look,
with wooden paneling and wicker furniture. Tandoori chicken, naans, and biryanii are some of the best dishes.
JOHOR BAHRU House of Sundanese Food 7
Level 3 City Square Shopping Mall, Jalan Wong Ah Fook, 80000 Tel (07) 226-6788
Decorated with wooden screens and Javanese art, this attractive restaurant serves West Javanese cuisine, which
has an emphasis on charcoal grilling and seafood. Sundanese (Indonesia) delicacies include cumi cumi bakar, or
squid basted in sweet sauce, and deep-fried chicken. Pork dishes are available at the restaurant.
JOHOR BAHRU Stonegrill
Level 3 Plaza Pelangi Shopping Mall, Jalan Tebrau Tel (07) 335-1133
A fair distance from the city center, but convenient for those staying at nearby hotels, Stonegrill specializes in a
unique style of cooking which uses heated natural volcanic stones. Steaks, mixed meat platters, and prawns, all
served with vegetables, are brought to the table on sizzling stone, where they simmer away until tender.
JOHOR BAHRU Grand Straits Garden Restaurant 7)f
3 Jalan Persiaran Danga, Kawasan Danga Bay, 81200 Tel (07) 238-8118
This is one of the biggest and busiest seafood restaurants in Johor Bahru despite its inconvenient location west of
the city center. All the favorites, including lobster, king crab, and fish-head curry, are served here along with rarer
items such as sharks fin soup, abalone, and chilled duck tongue. Reservations are essential.
MALACCA Discovery Caf 7)f
3 Jalan Bunga Raya, 75100 Tel (06) 292-5606

This eatery is a long-standing favorite especially among backpackers for its simple meals of curries, fish and chips,
and steaks. Located beside the river in the city center, it has a terrace with pleasant views, a library, pool table,
dartboard, and Internet access. The caf also features occasional live music.
MALACCA Restoran De Lisbon 7)f
18 Medan Portugis, 75050 Tel (06) 284-8067

This is one of the best places to sample authentic Malaccan-Portuguese cuisine, and the only restaurant on Medan
Portugis open for both lunch and dinner. Chili crabs, prawns, and devils curry, a spicy curry flavored with vinegar
and ginger, are popular dishes. There are plenty of outdoor tables but weekend evenings get very busy.
MALACCA Harpers Restaurant 7)
2 Lorong Hang Jebat, 75200 Tel (06) 282-8800

One of the smarter eateries in Chinatown, Harpers Restaurant is housed in a beautifully renovated building with
high ceilings and a narrow outdoor terrace overlooking the river. The menu is a mixture of mild Malay, Straits Chinese,
and Western cuisine with dishes such as deep-fried chicken, salads, and pastas. The service tends to be slow.
MALACCA Nancys Kitchen
7 Jalan Hang Lekir, 75200 Tel (06) 283-6099

This tiny, unassuming, family-run restaurant on a Chinatown side street is a great place to try authentic Straits
Chinese cooking. A lengthy menu features traditional favorites such as otak otak, a fish souffl steamed in a
banana leaf, sotong sambhol, or spicy squid, and duck in Peranakan spices. It is closed on Tuesdays.
MALACCA Nya Nya Restoran )
Jalan PM3, Plaza Mahkota, 75000 Tel (06) 283-6327

Located in the southern quarter of the city, away from the main tourist area, Nya Nya is a small, intimate restaurant
which specializes in Peranakan cuisine. Staple dishes are offered along with delicacies such as lemak nanas, a
pineapple and coconut rice dish, udang goreng assam, or fried shrimps, and chicken curry. It is closed on Monday.
MALACCA Capers Restaurant 7)f
Renaissance Melaka Hotel, Jalan Bendahara, 75100 Tel (06) 284-8888

Housed in the five-star Renaissance Melaka Hotel (see p278), this is the citys finest restaurant. Gleaming crystal,
crisp linen tablecloths, and silver flatware create a sophisticated ambience which is complemented by faultless
service. Eastern and Western fusion cuisine is accompanied by an excellent wine list. Open only for dinner.
MALACCA Coconut House )
128 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, 75200 Tel (06) 282-9128
With its original tiled floors and wooden ceiling beams, this cozy little restaurant is famous for its pizzas, made in
an authentic wood-fired oven. Classic options, such as the margarita, can be enjoyed along with those with local
flavors, such as the chicken satayy pizza. Pasta dishes are also available. Closed on Wednesdays.
MERSING Mersing Seafood Restaurant )
56 Jalan Ismail, 86800 Tel (07) 799-2550

This busy restaurant is one of the better places in town to sample a broad range of local seafood. Fried squid,
coconut prawns, and steamed fish are among the more popular orders. Diners can also try some unique
preparations, such as drunken prawns, which are cooked in rice wine, and cuttlefish rings stuffed with egg.
SEREMBAN Han Pi Yuen Restaurant 7)
Mezzanine Level, Royal Adelphi Hotel, Jalan Dato AS Dawood, 70100 Tel (06) 766-6666
This upmarket restaurant, located in the five-star Royal Adelphi Hotel (see p279), offers a broad range of regional
Chinese cuisines, including Szechuan, Cantonese, and Shanghainese food. Attentive staff serve tasty dishes including
steamed fish, prawns, dim sum, and tofu preparations in a refined atmosphere.
SEREMBAN Yuri Restaurant 7)
Allson Klana Resort, Jalan Penghulu Cantik, 70100 Tel (06) 762-9600
Ensconced in the luxurious Allson Klana Resort (see p279) but also open to non-guests, this is a high-end Japanese
restaurant, which features a range of popular Japanese dishes. A sushi bar serves expertly prepared fish creations
and a teppanyakii counter offers a variety of sizzling chicken, prawn, beef, and vegetable concoctions.
EASTERN
EASTE
S RN A N D CE
C
CENN T R AL P E N I N SULA
S ULA
CHEMPEDAK Restoran Pattaya f
Teluk Chempedak, 25050 Tel (09) 567-4437

One of the most lively eateries in Chempedak, Restoran Pattaya serves Chinese as well as international dishes.
Fresh seafood is an attraction here and the house specialties include barbecued tiger prawns and locally caught
lobster. There is plenty of ice-cold beer and they also have happy hours. Live music is organized on most evenings.
CHERATING Duyong Restaurant )f
Main Road East, 26080

Occupying a beautiful location at the Eastern end of Cherating Beach with fine sea views, Duyong specializes in
seafood cooked in spicy central Thai style. The tom yam kung, or prawn with chili in coconut milk, is outstanding, as
is the gaeng karee gai, or green chicken curry. There is live music every night.
CHERATING Payung Caf
Main Road West, 26080 Tel (09) 581-9658

This Italian restaurant is aimed mainly at foreigners and young Malays. An extensive menu features numerous
pasta dishes with many seafood options, pizza, steak, salad, and Italian desserts. Hearty breakfasts are served
everyday. Cold beer is available everywhere, but not so frequently in the predominantly Muslim east coast.
KOTA BHARU Muhibah
Jalan Datok Pati, 15000 Tel (09) 748-3808

A rarity in meat-loving Kota Bharu, this vegetarian restaurant serves a wide range of Malay and Chinese dishes.
The latter, interestingly, are sometimes prepared to resemble meat dishes but are nonetheless strictly vegetarian.
Beverages include fresh fruit juices and soft drinks but no alcohol.
KOTA BHARU Four Seasons
Jalan Dusan Raja, 15300 Tel (09) 748-6666

A dependable Kota Bharu restaurant, this place offers a variety of predominantly Chinese dishes, specializing in
Cantonese cuisine. The seafood steamboat is highly recommended and there is an array of freshly made dim sum.
Since this is a Chinese establishment, it is one of the few places in Muslim Kelantan where alcohol is served.
KUALA TERENGGANU MD Curry House
Jalan Kampung Dalam, 20100

A south Indian restaurant, MD Curry House is well-known for its huge rice dishes served on banana leaves, samosas,
tasty dals, or lentil soups, mutton or chicken biryani, a seasoned rice dish, and other south Asian treats. There is also a
good range of Indian breads including roti canai, and lassis, or yogurt drinks. The spiced tea is hot and refreshing.
KUALA TERENGGANU Restoran Ocean )
Sultan Zainal Abidin, 20000 Tel (09) 623-9156

This is possibly the best Chinese restaurant in Terengganu. Being in a Muslim state, there are few pork dishes, but
cold beer is always available, except during Ramadan. Among the best dishes are the curry mee noodles, steamed
pomfret in plum sauce, and Chinese kale with oyster and sesame sauce.
KUANTAN Restoran Patani
Jalan Tun Ismail, 25000 Tel (09) 515-7800

Almost always crowded, this is perhaps the best Malay restaurant in Kuantan. A good selection of superbly prepared
traditional Malay dishes including nasi goreng, roti canai, and beef rendang are offered here. Delicious freshly grilled
beef and chicken satayy are also among the top draws. No alcohol is served.
KUANTAN Tjantek
T Art Bistro
Jalan Besar, 25000 Tel (09) 967-2021

A surprisingly sophisticated venue for conservative Kuantan, this little bistro, set in a tastefully restored 1928
Chinese shophouse, serves good Italian dishes including pasta, pizza, steak, seafood, and salad. Some dishes,
notably the pizza toppings, reflect a Malay influence. The art on the walls, painted by local artists, is for sale.
PEKAN Restoran Islamiza
Jalan Sultan Ahmad, 26600

This restaurant makes a great lunch stop en route from Pekan to Tasik Chini or other destinations. It is a simple
place, with superb roti canai, samosas, north and south Indian curries, and spiced tea served in a friendly atmosphere.
It is halal so no beer or alcohol is served, but refreshing lassiss are an appealing alternative.
PULAU PERHENTIAN BESAR Watercolours )
Paradise Beach Tel (019) 981-1852

A combination of local and international dishes, with particularly good pizzas, is served at this 24-hour restaurant,
but like most eateries on the Perhentian Islands, seafood is the highlight. Watercolours offers red-hot barbecues
every evening. Vegetarian dishes are also available.
PULAU PERHENTIAN BESAR Tuna Bay Restaurant )
West Coast of Perhentian Besar Tel (09) 697-7779

One of the best restaurants on Perhentian Besar, located in the Tuna Bay Resort (see p281), it serves a mix of
international, Chinese, Malay, and Thai food. The restaurant excels in seafood dishes, and has a fresh seafood
barbecue almost every evening. Beer, cocktails, and a limited selection of wines are also on the menu.
PULAU PERHENTIAN KECIL Tussy Caf )
Pasir Panjang, 22300

Simple and friendly, this beachside caf offers good sea views and is especially popular with budget travelers for the
Western-style breakfasts that include pancakes and fruit shakes. The Malay dishes are also good, with the stir-fried
beef with ginger and garlic highly recommended. Barbecued seafood is occasionally available in the evenings.
PULAU REDANG Matahari )
Coral Redang Island Resort Tel (09) 630-7110

This is a comfortable restaurant with a menu ranging from large Western breakfasts and steaks to lighter seafood and
salad lunches, with barbecued prawns, crabs, and other seafood. There is a good selection of cold drinks, including
imported beers and spirits. For guests at the resort (see p281), the meals are usually part of a package deal.
T K CHINI Lake Chini Resort

TASI )
Tasik Chini, 26690 Tel (09) 477-8000

This is the in-house restaurant of the Lake Chini Resort (see p281) and has something of a monopoly on dining
facilities in the area. The restaurant overlooks the lake and the menu features freshwater fish dishes. Most dishes are
Malay, although Western breakfasts are also served.
S ARAWAK
SARAWAK
BINTULU Riverfront Inn )
256 Jalan Masjid, 97000 Tel (086) 333-557

Located on the bank of the Sungai Kemena, this Chinese restaurant has a refined atmosphere and is one of
Bintulus top dining venues. While the specialties include local favorites such as sharks fin soup with scrambled
egg, the inn also serves Thai, Malay, and Western dishes.
BRUNEI T
Tasek Brasserie )
Sheraton Utama Hotel, Jalan Tasek Lama, Bandar Seri Begawan, BS8674 Tel (0673) 224-4272
With its teak floors and panoramic glass windows, the Tasek Brasserie provides a bright and breezy place to enjoy
a good meal of Asian or Western cuisine. The lunch and dinner buffets are particularly recommended and
American breakfast is served as well. All food is halall and the dress code is smart casual.
KUCHING Hornbills Corner )
85 Jalan Ban Hock Tel (082) 252-670

Steamboat is the specialty of this place, which is hugely popular with locals and visitors to Kuching. Diners can
select seafood and meat from a display, and then cook it in a pot at the table with vegetables and sauces. Cool
draft beer is available and the TV screens live sports shows.
KUCHING The Junk )
80 Jalan Wayang Tel (082) 259-450

The ideal place for a romantic dinner, this restaurant is located in an atmospheric old Chinese building, with
intriguing art objects decorating the dining area. The signature dish here is lamb shanks with mashed potatoes,
served in huge portions, so work up a good appetite before you go.
KUCHING Khatulistiwa Caf )
Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, 93100 Tel (082) 248-896

One of Kuchings most atmospheric restaurants, this place has a fantastic location right on the riverfront,
making it an ideal place to watch local tambangs, or river ferries, sail past. The caf serves a good variety of
both local and international dishes and is open 24 hours. There are DJs playing music in the evenings.
KUCHING Jambu )f
32 Jalan Crookshank, 93100 Tel (082) 235-292

Located in a spacious colonial mansion, Jambu is beautifully decorated with European and local antiques. It
serves Mediterranean dishes cooked with local ingredients as well as modern Bornean cuisine. Jambu also has
an interesting selection of wines. There is a garden terrace with a tapas bar and live jazz on Friday evenings.
KUCHING See Good Food Center )
53 Jalan Ban Hock, 93100 Tel (082) 251-397

This is probably the best place for seafood in Kuching. The owners are friendly and happy to advise. Although this
is a Chinese restaurant, there are many local dishes on the menu, such as lobster in pepper sauce, and midin, a
type of jungle fern, cooked until crispy. There is also an extensive wine list.
KUCHING The Steakhouse )
Hilton Kuching, Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, 93100 Tel (082) 248-200
Located in the Hilton (see p283), The Steakhouse is the classiest place to eat in Kuching, and does not disappoint.
The portions are generous and presentation is attractive. There is an all-you-can-eat buffet at lunch, and in the
evening diners can choose from the three- or four-course meals that are sure to satisfy.
MIRI Wheels Pub & Bistro 7)
Lot 1271, Ground Floor, Block 9, MCLD, Miri Waterfront, 98000 Tel (085) 419-859
This friendly and inviting Western-style bar located in the new development on Miris Waterfront offers a limited
but tasty range of Western dishes, as well as draft beer, wine, and cocktails. They also have a pool table and
good music, making it a popular gathering spot for travelers.
MIRI Maxim Delicious Food 7)
1063 Jalan Miri Pujut, 98000 Tel (085) 413-329

Southeast of the city center, Maxim is one of Miris most popular seafood restaurants, so arrive early to avoid
disappointment. Grilled fish with belacan, a shrimp paste, is the highlight of the menu, but there are plenty of
other dishes to choose from. Given the distance from the center of town, a taxi is the best way to get here.
SIBU Peppers Caf )
Tanah Mas Hotel, Lot 277, Block 5, Jalan Kampung Nyabor, 96000 Tel (084) 333-188
Serving international and Malay cuisine of a very high standard, Peppers Caf is particularly popular for business
lunches and dinners. The menu features a good range of fruit juices, beers, and spirits. It gets very crowded during
weekends, so reservations are recommended.
SAB
SA B AH
GUNUNG KINABALU Fairy Garden Resort )
Jalan Ranau-Tuaran, Kundasang, 88100 Tel (088) 889-688

Located on the main road, a short walk east of the entrance to Kinabalu National Park (see pp1847), this place is an
excellent dining option, not only for its delicious array of reasonably priced Malay and Chinese dishes, but also for its
panoramic views over the lush hillsides.
GUNUNG KINABALU Liwagu )
Park Headquarters, Gunung Kinabalu National Park, 88100 Tel (088) 889-077
There are limited dining options for those staying in accommodations within Gunung Kinabalu National Park.
Liwagu is one of the better eateries and although it may be a slightly expensive option, it has a wider range of both
Western and Asian dishes which are all well prepared.
KOTA KINABALU Sinario Caf 7
25 Bandaran Berjaya, 88000 Tel (088) 246-286

A simple but spotlessly clean caf, Sinario turns out delicious northern Indian and Malay food at very cheap prices.
With its central location, it is a convenient place to stop off during a walk around town to sample the tasty curries.
The place is almost always busy, packed with local workers, especially at lunchtime.
KOTA KINABALU Sri Melaka
9 Jalan Laiman Diki, Kampung Air, 88000 Tel (088) 224-777

Although the decor and ambience of this restaurant are not exceptional, Sri Melaka serves some of the tastiest
Malay food in Sabahs capital. Enormous portions of fish-head curry and a number of dishes prepared with
seasonal vegetables are among the favorites that draw the crowds.
KOTA KINABALU Gardenia Grill Room )
Jesselton Hotel, 69 Jalan Gaya, 88000 Tel (088) 223-333

Housed in the stylish Jesselton Hotel (see p284), this international grill is one of the fanciest restaurants in Malaysia.
Excellent beef cuts and delicious fresh fish are cooked to perfection, and the presentation is attractive. Attentive
service and a good wine list make it an ideal choice for business lunches or a romantic dinner.
KOTA KINABALU Luna Rossa 7)
Lot 6, Tanjung Lipat, Jalan Gaya, 88000 Tel (088) 266-882

One of Kota Kinabalus newest restaurants, Luna Rossa is run by an enterprising Italian owner who has tastefully
converted a former warehouse on the northeastern fringe of the city into a unique venue. The menu includes a
good range of Italian dishes and wines, and there are daily specials as well.
KOTA KINABALU Port View 7)f
Jalan Haji Saman, 88000 Tel (088) 252-813

Located on the seafront, right next to the market, the cavernous Port View is equally popular among locals and
tourists for its excellent and inexpensive seafood. The restaurant stages a cultural show every evening, with
traditional dance performances by various indigenous groups.
KOTA KINABALU XO Steakhouse 7)
54 Jalan Gaya, 88000 Tel (088) 237-077

Located to the northeast of the city center, this is perhaps Kota Kinabalus best steakhouse outside of the top
hotels. All the meat is imported and there are many seafood options on the menu. A good range of wine and
cocktails plus excellent service make it a reliable choice.
LAHAD DATU Spring Palace 7)
The Executive Hotel, Jalan Teratai, 91121 Tel (089) 881-333

Considering how far off the beaten track Lahad Datu is, it comes as a surprise to find this tastefully designed
restaurant with attentive, smartly dressed staff serving a variety of Chinese and international dishes. Good dim
sum are served at lunchtime. They also have delicious desserts and a good range of beer, wine, and spirits.
SANDAKAN Supreme Garden Vegetarian
Block 30, Jalan Leila, Bandar Ramai Ramai, 90000 Tel (089) 213-292
Located just west of the night market in Sandakan, this friendly place serves a bewildering range of vegetarian dishes
at very competitive prices. Among these is the vegetarian steamboat, which consists of various types of vegetables
cooked in a boiling broth. There are also several unusual dishes including a vegetarian version of fried frog.
SANDAKAN English Tea

T House and Restaurant 7)
2002 Jalan Istana, 90716 Tel (089) 222-544

This smart restaurant, on a hill overlooking Sandakan, offers a slice of colonial life. Savor Continental classics,
and Malay, and Indian dishes, all served by traditionally dressed staff. English tea is available in the tea house or
on the lawn, where guests can also enjoy a game of croquet.
SINGAPORE
CHINATOWN Gorkha Grill 7 \
21 Smith Street, 058935 Tel 6227-0806 Map 4 C4

This authentic Nepalese restaurant offers great food at an affordable price. The signature dish here is the traditional
Nepalese momo a soft dumpling stuffed with seasoned minced chicken. Jheenge papita, a papaya stuffed with
prawns in a wine sauce, is one of the best dishes.
CHINATOWN Imperial Hot Wok 7 \
11 Far East Square, 72 Telok Ayer Street, 048460 Tel 6438-8918 Map 5 D4
This is a tiny, sunlit restaurant that serves authentic Chinese food. Fragrant Hakka rice seasoned with dried shrimp
and served with pickled vegetables and beancurd is their house specialty. They also serve excellent stir-fried
vegetables. For dessert the fresh homemade coconut ice-cream garnished with sweet red beans is popular.
CHINATOWN Blue Ginger 7 \\
97 Tanjong Pagar Road, 088518 Tel 6222-3928 Map 4 C5

To experience traditional Nonya cooking, a unique blend of Malay and Chinese flavors, visit the Blue Ginger, located
in a picturesque shophouse. Sample the distinctive ayam buah keluak, chicken with tamarind paste and chocolatey
keluakk nuts, and a range of desserts made with the unique durian fruit.
CHINATOWN Da Paolo e Judie 7) \\\
81 Neil Road, 88905 Tel 6225-8306 Map 4 B5

Set in a converted shophouse, this tranquil Italian restaurant serves delightful homemade pasta with earthy sauces,
homemade ice-cream, and authentic Italian espresso. Adding to this is the friendly service, which makes for a truly
memorable evening.
CHINATOWN Casa Mediterranean 7 \\\\
Berjaya Duxton Hotel, 83 Duxton Road, 089540 Tel 6221-8485 Map 4 C4

Fine dining in an elegant ambience is the hallmark of this restaurant located at the chic Berjaya Duxton (see p288).
Along with classic French fare, their extensive selection of cheeses and wines is exceptional. Foie gras, either glazed
or accompanied by sauces and broth, is the restaurants specialty. The menu is seasonal.
CHINATOWN Senso Ristorante and Bar 7) \\\\
21 Club Street, 069410 Tel 6224-3534 Map 4 C4

Housed in a former colonial convent, this sophisticated restaurant serves excellent Italian food prepared with
ingredients flown in from Italy. The delicious coffee ice-cream sprinkled with nuts is a must. Guests can opt to
dine in the covered courtyard, which is complete with pillars and statues. The menu changes every month.
COLONIAL CORE Annalakshmi \
# B1-2 Chinatown Point, 133 New Bridge Road, 059413 Tel 6339-9993 Fax
x 6337-0861 Map 4 B4
Named for the Hindu goddess of food, Annalakshmi is unique in many ways it is run entirely by volunteers of the
Temple of Fine Arts, Indian vegetarian meals are served on silverware or banana leaves, and you can eat all you want
and pay what you think is the fair amount for a meal. The proceeds go to various charitable projects.
COLONIAL CORE Bukhara 7 \\
144 Clarke Quay, Block 3A River Valley Road, 179022 Tel 6338-1411 Map 4 C2
Northwest Indian frontier food is served at this colorful restaurant which is decorated with stone and wooden
accents. Try the succulent tandoori lamb kebabs, fish, and chicken, while vegetarians can eat the stuffed tandoori
potatoes and peppers. Opting for the buffet enables diners to sample most of the dishes for a reasonable price.
COLONIAL CORE House of Sundanese Food 7 \\
55 Boat Quay, 049844 Tel 6534-3775 Map 5 D3

Renowned for its ethnic Indonesian food, this restaurant offers a menu comprising regional specialties. Among the
dishes most recommended are barbecued seafood such as charcoal-dried squid or snapper with sambhol. Also try
their freshly-made barley water. A buffet spread including traditional desserts is on offer too.
COLONIAL CORE Doc Chengs 7) \\\
Raffles Hotel Arcade, 1 Beach Road, 189673 Tel 6431-6156 Map 5 E1

Internationally acclaimed Doc Chengs at the Raffles Hotel Arcade is named for a legendary 1920s physician whose
story appears on the menu. The restaurants decor and food offer the best of East-West fusion. The desserts are
exquisite and unique herbal cocktails are served at the bar. Closed for lunch on Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays.
COLONIAL CORE Empire Caf 7 \\\
Raffles Hotel Arcade, 1 Beach Road, 189673 Tel 6412-1101 Map 5 E1

Designed to resemble a kopi tiam (old-fashioned street-side coffee houses that were common in 1920s Singapore),
Empire Caf at the Raffles Hotel Arcade serves all the international favorites as well as local staples including roti,
paratha, laksa, and Hainan chicken rice. The caf is ideal for a quick bite.

COLONIAL CORE Father Flanagans 7) \\\
B16, Chijmes, 30 Victoria Street, 187996 Tel 6333-1418 Map 3 D5

Hearty Irish and English fare such as stews, cottage pie, and Guinness pie are served in a traditional pub setting.
Also try Monks Brew, the in-house ale. Irish radio plays in the background adding to the authentic atmosphere.
The restaurant is especially popular with the expatriate community.
COLONIAL CORE Flutes at the Fort \\\
23B Coleman Street, 179290 Tel 6338-8770 Map 2 C5

This hilltop restaurant is ideal for a romantic, frangipani-scented dinner. Outdoor seating on the wooden
veranda offers a view of sparkling city lights at night. Among the Australian fare served here, prepared with
seasonal ingredients, are the highly recommended homemade breads and cheese platter with quince paste.
COLONIAL CORE Golden Peony 7 \\\
Level 3, Conrad International Centennial Hotel, 2 Temasek Boulevard, 038982 Tel 6332-7488 Map 3 E5
This swanky Chinese restaurant at the Conrad International Centennial Hotel (see p286) is popular for business
lunches. The restaurant serves Cantonese-Hong Kong cuisine, made using only the seasonal ingredients flown in
from China. A variety of dim sum and glutinous rice balls filled with vanilla ice-cream are its premier dishes.
COLONIAL CORE Imperial Herbal 7 \\\
38 Vivocity, 188396 Tel 6337-0491 Map 3 E5

Before placing their order, guests are checked by a resident Chinese herbalist who then makes suggestions from
a menu comprising more than 100 dishes, each prepared with Chinese medicinal herbs to combat various ailments.
Specialties at this restaurant in the Metropole Hotel include the braised codfish and Imperial chicken.
COLONIAL CORE Min Jiang at One-North \\\
5 Rochestor Park, 139216 Tel 6774-0122

Set in a beautiful colonial bungalow, this restaurant offers excellent Sichuan cuisine. The lobster medallion and
tea-smoked duck are highly recommended. The crispy yet tender traditional Peking duck tastes slightly different
here as it is roasted in authentic Chinese wood-fired ovens.
COLONIAL CORE The Moomba \\\
52 Circular Road, Boat Quay, 049407 Tel 6438-0141 Map 5 D3

This restaurant, decorated with vibrant Aboriginal art, features contemporary Australian cuisine, such as barbecued
kangaroo loin, squid cakes, and traditional sticky date pudding. Classic grilled steaks and vegetarian dishes are also
on the menu. Some of the best Australian wines are served here. Closed on Sundays and public holidays.
COLONIAL CORE Pierside Kitchen and Bar ) \\\
One Fullerton, 1 Fullerton Road, 049214 Tel 6438-0400 Map 5 E3

Located at the spot where the Singapore River meets Marina Bay, this waterfront restaurant offers a beautiful view
of the ocean. A superb seafood menu includes pan-seared king scallops and fresh oysters on ice. The bar boasts an
extensive collection of vintage wines. Alfresco dining is also available. Closed for lunch on Saturday and Sunday.
COLONIAL CORE Rang Mahal 7 \\\
Pan Pacific Hotel, 7 Raffles Boulevard, 039595 Tel 6333-1788 Map 5 F2

The oldest and most popular Indian restaurant in the city, situated at the Pan Pacific hotel (see p286), Rang Mahal
features stylish interiors and good North Indian food that is cooked over slow flames for extra taste. Try the rogan
josh (spicy mutton dish) with biryanii or rotis. Desserts such as kheerr (milk pudding) are served.
COLONIAL CORE Ristorante Bologna 7 \\\
Marina Mandarin, 6 Raffles Boulevard, Marina Square, 039594 Tel 6845-1123 Map 5 F2
Established almost two decades ago, this chic restaurant at the Marina Mandarin (see p286) serves classic northern
Italian fare. The menu features an extensive antipasti selection followed by pasta dishes served with rich sauces.
Patrons can also mix and match ingredients and request the chef to tailor a dish to their taste.
COLONIAL CORE Sun with Moon 7) \\\
21 Chijmes, 30 Victoria Street, 187996 Tel 6336-3166 Map 3 D5

This is a contemporary Japanese restaurant, which features an open Zen kitchen. House specials are the traditional
kamameshii or rice casserole, a savory black sesame pudding, and green tea ice-cream for dessert. Other unique
dishes include half-broiled sushii and vitamin cocktails. Try the eight-dish buffet for lunch.
COLONIAL CORE The Tapas

T Tree 7)f \\\
18, Block 3D, Shophouse Row, Clarke Quay, River Valley Road, 179023 Tel 6837-2938 Map 5 D2
Occupying a scenic riverside location, this Spanish tapas bar offers soups, salads, desserts, 70 different types of hot
and cold tapas, and six types of paella. The beverage menu features sangria and wines. Live nightly music by a
three-man guitar band or visiting artists enhances the ambience.
COLONIAL CORE Tiffin Room 7 \\\
Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Road, 189673 Tel 6431-6156 Map 5 E1

Raffles Hotels (see p287) main dining room is named after the simple midday meals eaten by Indians that also
became a tradition for colonial rulers. The delectable lunch and dinner buffet serves all the staple tiffin dishes such
as chicken curry in an atmosphere reminiscent of the early 20th-century colonial era.
\ under S$20 \\ S$2030 \\\ S$3050 \\\\ S$5070 \\\\\ over S$70
COLONIAL CORE Equinox The Restaurant 7) \\\\
Level 70, Swisstel the Stamford, Raffles City, 2 Stamford Road, 178882 Tel 6431-5669 Map 3 D5
This three-story restaurant offers the most panoramic views of Singapore and across the Strait to Malaysia and
Indonesia. Service is gracious and guests can choose from a Western or Asian menu. The seafood buffet at lunch
is excellent, but to make the most of its peerless views, visit the restaurant for dinner.
COLONIAL CORE Fish Tales \\\\
17 Clarke Quay, Block 3D River Valley Road, 179024 Tel 6837-3251 Map 4 C2
Sitting on a jetty and with decor befitting its name, including fishing traps and fish hooks, this restaurant has a
great selection of fresh seafood. Although the prices are on the high side, and the appearance of the dishes
sometimes differs from that described on the menu, the preparation is delicious. Wednesdays are oyster nights.
COLONIAL CORE Hai Tien Lo 7 \\\\
37th Floor, Pan Pacific Hotel, 7 Raffles Boulevard, 039595 Tel 6826-8338 Map 5 F2
Fabulous Cantonese food, pleasant waitresses dressed in traditional Chinese cheongsams, and sweeping views of
the city and Marina Bay makes a visit to Hai Tien Lo at the plush Pan Pacific Hotel (see p286) an enjoyable
experience. Baked codfish in Champagne sauce, king crabs, and wok-fried lobster are among the specialties.
COLONIAL CORE Inagiku 7 \\\\
Level 3, Swisstel the Stamford, Raffles City, 2 Stamford Road, 178882 Tel 6431-5305 Map 3 D5
A branch of the original Inagiku that opened in Japan in 1866, this upscale Japanese restaurant features some of
Singapores best sushi, tempura, and sashimi, complemented by an excellent wine list. There are also tatami rooms,
or private dining areas, where food is prepared at the table. la carte prices tend to be high, so try the set menu.
COLONIAL CORE Indochine Waterfront 7 \\\\
Asian Civilisations Museum, 1 Empress Place, 179555 Tel 6339-1720 Map 5 D3

Decorated with Shan antiques and Czech crystal chandeliers, this restaurant overlooking the Singapore River,
serves Lao, Vietnamese, and Cambodian delicacies including beef stew, fish wrapped in banana leaf, and pungent
Vietnamese coffee. Reservations are essential. No lunch service on weekends.
COLONIAL CORE Jade 7 \\\\
Lobby Level, The Fullerton Hotel, 1 Fullerton, 049178 Tel 6877-8188 Map 5 E3
Lofty ceilings and unobtrusive room dividers give this elegant restaurant, located on the lobby level of The Fullerton
Hotel (see p287), a spacious, airy feel. It serves modern Chinese cuisine along with one of the best selections of wine
and champagne. Cocoa ribs sweet chocolate-flavored pork ribs in raspberry dressing is their signature dish.
COLONIAL CORE Keyaki 7) \\\\
4th Floor, Pan Pacific Hotel, 7 Raffles Boulevard, Marina Square, 039595 Tel 6826-8335 Map 5 F2
Set in a traditional Japanese garden on the rooftop of the Pan Pacific hotel (see p286), complete with a carp pond
and pavilion, this restaurant derives its name from the keyakii wood used to build it. Opt for the robatayakii form of
eating where guests can choose fresh food from a display and have it barbecued before them.
COLONIAL CORE Mortons of Chicago 7) \\\\
4th Floor, The Oriental, 5 Raffles Avenue, 039797 Tel 6339-3740 Map 5 F2
Featuring dark wood panels and subtle lighting, this American steakhouse at The Oriental Singapore (see p287) is
extremely popular although the prices are steep. Superior prime beef steaks, flown in all the way from Chicago,
are the highlight of the restaurant. They also have a great selection of Napa Valley wines. No lunch service.
COLONIAL CORE Tatsu Sushi 7 \\\\
116 Chijmes, 30 Victoria Street, 187996 Tel 6332-5868 Map 4 C2

Personal service gets a whole new meaning here as the owners and chefs will plan a tailor-made meal if requested.
The sushii counter is the main draw here, while cozy tatamii rooms offer private dining. Guests can choose from an
extensive menu of grilled, steamed, deep fried, or simmered dishes.
COLONIAL CORE Viet Lang 7 \\\\
13 Annex Building, Old Parliament House, Tel 6337-3379 Map 5 D3

For those craving authentic Vietnamese cuisine, this cozy restaurant is one of the best options in Singapore. The
menu includes favorites such as beef wrapped in betel leaves, pork and coconut stews, roast suckling piglet, and
rice vermicelli noodles. They also offer frogs legs dishes.
COLONIAL CORE Au Jardin \\\\\
EJH Corner House, Singapore Botanic Gardens, 1 Cluny Road, 259569 Tel 6466-8812 Map 1 D1
Housed in a plantation-style house, nestled in the lush Botanical Gardens, this is a celebrated French restaurant.
It offers an extensive la carte menu, but the real highlight is the seven-course meal accompanied by superb wines.
Guests can choose to sit in the intimate dining room or outdoors on the cozy patio terrace.
COLONIAL CORE Raffles Grill 7 \\\\\
Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Road, 189673 Tel 6431-6156 Map 5 E1

The formal dining room of the Raffles Hotel (see p287), Raffles Grill exudes elegance and sophistication. The service
is discreet and the menu has classic as well as contemporary French cuisine including roast veal and pigeon. Wine
from their impressive cellar and exquisite bitter chocolate tarts complete a superb meal. Closed on Sunday.

LITTLE INDIA Andhra Curry House 7 \
41 & 43 Kerbau Road, 219170 Tel 6293-3935 Map 3 D3

This unassuming restaurant specializes in cuisine from the South Indian state of Andhra Pradesh, which has
the distinction of having the spiciest food in all of India. The fragrant Hyderabadi biryanii and dry lamb dishes
are delicious. The food is fiery so keep some water at hand.
LITTLE INDIA Banana Leaf Apollo 7 \
58 Race Course Road, 218564 Tel 6293-8682 Map 3 D3

This is a traditional South Indian restaurant, popular with the locals. A standard meal here involves being given
a huge banana leaf on which a large mound of piping hot rice is served together with poppadoms, curries,
vegetables, and yoghurt. Try eating the spicy food with your fingers the way the locals do.
LITTLE INDIA Delhi \

This multi-award-winning restaurant, filled with antiques, is one of the best options for authentic North Indian
food in Little India. Favorites here include the tandoori mixed meat sizzlers, rogan josh (spicy mutton dish), and
butter chicken. Among the excellent vegetarian options are spinach with cottage cheese and spicy mushrooms.
LITTLE INDIA Komala Vilas \
76 Serangoon Road, 217981 Tel 6293-6980 Map 3 E1

One of the oldest and best-known restaurants in Little India, Komala Vilas serves simple but outstanding South
Indian vegetarian food that keeps it constantly crowded. Enjoy the crispiest of dosas (large, crisp pancakes), as
well as an assortment of dals, curries, and condiments.
LITTLE INDIA Muthus Curry 7 \

This restaurant is synonymous with the legendary local fish-head curry. The dish essentially consists of a fish head
cooked in a spicy gravy, which is best eaten with a portion of boiled rice. Besides this, the menu also includes other
Indian treats such as chicken curry, biryani, and fish cutlets.
LITTLE INDIA Yhingthai Palace 7 \\
36 Purvis Street, 198897 Tel 6337-1161 Map 3 E5

An unpretentious Thai restaurant, which is particularly popular for its variety of flavored rice dishes including olive,
mango, and pineapple as well as chicken wings stuffed with spring onions and mushrooms. Excellent starters
include the spicy mango salad and otak otakk (fish souffl). For dessert try the sticky rice with mango.
ORCHARD ROAD Lemongrass 7 \
52 The Hereen, 260 Orchard Road, 238879 Tel 6736-1998 Map 2 A4

Thai statues and artifacts and small waterfalls fill the interior of this restaurant located in one of the busiest malls on
Orchard Road. It is known for authentic Thai dishes, most of which are dominated by three main ingredients blue
ginger, lemongrass, and rice. Guests can specify how spicy they like their food while ordering.
ORCHARD ROAD Mumtaz Mahal \
522 Far East Plaza, 14 Scotts Road, 228213 Tel 6732-2754 Map 2 A3
Exceptionally friendly service sets this tiny, relatively uncrowded Indian restaurant apart. Their garlic, fruit, and onion
naans, or bread with onion stuffing, are very popular as is the raan aleshan (spicy lamb curry). Indicate how spicy the
food should be when placing the order and remember to leave room for the sinfully rich mango ice-cream.
ORCHARD ROAD The Rice Table 7 \
29 International Building, 360 Orchard Road, 238869 Tel 6835-3783 Map 1 F2

This is one of the rare restaurants that serves the Indonesian-Dutch rijsttafel (rice table) cuisine. The meals are
enormous, comprising a portion of rice accompanied by as many as 20 side dishes of meat, poultry, seafood,
and vegetables. The set lunches and dinners offer good value. They also have an all-you-can-eat buffet.
ORCHARD ROAD Stuart Andersons Black Angus 7 \\
18 Orchard Parade Hotel, 1 Tanglin Road, 247905 Tel 6734-1181 Map 1 F2

Housed in the Orchard Parade hotel (see p290), Black Angus is a branch of the American chain that serves
American fare. The menu has tender beef steaks and slow-roasted prime ribs with salads and mashed potatoes.
The meat and vegetable gumbo is good too. Imported meat, US Department of Agriculture-approved, is used.
ORCHARD ROAD Aoki \\\
217 Shaw Center, 1 Scotts Road, 228208 Tel 6333-8015 Map 1 F2

Zen-like interiors, smiling kimono-clad waitresses, sak sorbets, and fresh fish flown in from Japan are the
highlights of this tiny Japanese restaurant. For the adventurous, the menu offers dishes with cod sperm or
sea slug intestines. They also offer an elegant formal banquet known as kaiseki. No lunch on Sunday.
ORCHARD ROAD Chatterbox Coffeehouse 7 \\\
Meritus Mandarin Hotel, 333 Orchard Road, 238867 Tel 6831-6291 Map 2 A4
The Meritus Mandarins (see p290) cozy, 24-hour coffee house, a favorite haunt of Orchard Road shoppers, is
reputed to serve the best chicken rice in town. Specially bred chicken is used to prepare the dish and it is claimed
that more than 1,000 portions are consumed in a day. Nasi lemakk and carrot cake are other popular dishes.
\ under S$20 \\ S$2030 \\\ S$3050 \\\\ S$5070 \\\\\ over S$70
ORCHARD ROAD Club Chinois 7 \\\
Orchard Parade Hotel, 1 Tanglin Road, 247905 Tel 6834-0660 Map 1 F2

Illuminated in dazzling fuschia, purple, lime green, and other neon colors, Club Chinois at the Orchard Parade Hotel
(see p290) is a popular restaurant serving modern Chinese food. The menu has an array of imaginative East-West fusion
cuisine along with wines from Chile and Argentina. Choose from a range of private rooms for intimate dining.
ORCHARD ROAD Esmirada 7 \\\
Orchard Hotel, 442 Orchard Road, 238879 Tel 6735-3476 Map 1 F2

A colorful Mediterranean restaurant at the Orchard Hotel (see p290) that serves an array of flavorful creations
reflecting the diversity of the region. Favorites such as salads, couscous, paella, and hot garlic bread are served on
Greek-style earthenware with iron cutlery. Wines can be selected from the adjoining bar.
ORCHARD ROAD Hard Rock Caf 7)f \\\
21 HPL House, 50 Cuscaden Road, 249724 Tel 6235-5232 Map 1 E2

A 1961 Cadillac hangs over the entrance of this quick-service restaurant, part of an international chain famous for its
signature display of rock-and-roll memorabilia. Hearty burgers, steaks, brownies, and beer make it a favorite for
family outings. The Cecil iced tea with cinnamon and cloves is a specialty. A Filipino band plays music.
ORCHARD ROAD Teahouse \\\
Level 3, 2 China Square Food Center, 51 Telok Ayer Street, 238879 Tel 6533-0660 Map 5 D4
Hunan cuisine is served at this flashy restaurant, which is decorated with Red Army propaganda posters, party flags,
and other political paraphernalia, and is serviced by staff dressed in Chairman Mao uniforms. Guests select
ingredients of their choice which are cooked together in a hotpot at the table.
ORCHARD ROAD Mezza9 7) \\\
Grand Hyatt, 10 Scotts Road, 228211 Tel 6416-7189 Map 2 A3

Guests may have trouble choosing a meal at this 450-seat restaurant that serves Chinese, Thai, Japanese, European,
and Italian cuisine prepared in nine separate kitchens. In addition, it boasts a superb wine cellar and swanky martini
bar with over 30 mixers. The nine-dessert sampler platter is the signature dish. There is also a nine-course meal.
ORCHARD ROAD Blu 7)f \\\\
Shangri-La Hotel, 22 Orange Grove Road, 258350 Tel 6213-4598 Map 1 E1

With futuristic designer furnishings, contemporary cuisine with a French twist, and live jazz music, this restaurant
reflects the stylish ambience of the Shangri-La Hotel (see p290), enhanced by stunning views across the city. The bar
features classic Napa Valley wines and superb Champagne cocktails.
ORCHARD ROAD Les Amis \\\\\
216 Shaw Center, 1 Scotts Road, 228208 Tel 6733-2225 Map 2 A3

Rated as the citys finest French restaurant, Les Amis is a favorite with Singapores tycoons and celebrities. Exquisite
meals are matched by a superb selection of vintage wines, including limited editions of Canadian ice wine. A
guridon service, in which skilled waiters prepare food at guests tables, is also offered. Reservations essential.
ORCHARD ROAD Top of the M 7 \\\\\
Meritus Mandarin Hotel, 330 Orchard Road, 238867 Tel 6831-6258 Map 2 A4
Savor a five-course French meal while enjoying a picturesque view of the Singapore skyline at this 567-ft (173-m)
high revolving restaurant at the Meritus Mandarin (see p290). Care has been taken to ensure that guests at each
table have an unobstructed view. Musicians wander around the restaurant, stopping to play at individual tables.
FARTHER AFIELD Chilli Padi \
11 Joo Chiat Place, East Coast, 486350 Tel 6275-1002

Nonya cooking uses generous amounts of fresh herbs and pungent spices, especially chili paste, so the food here is
extremely spicy. Stir-frying and slow cooking result in remarkably flavorful dishes such as green bean sambhol and udang
mesak nanas, prawns cooked with tamarind and pineapple. Dessert options include sago pudding with palm sugar.
FARTHER AFIELD Crystal Jade Kitchen 7 \
2 Lorong Mambong, Holland Village, 277671 Tel 6469-0300

The menu, a combination of Cantonese and Teochew cuisine, is extensive, with a huge variety of appetizing dim
sum. They also serve the traditional Chinese congee, a rice porridge eaten plain or with condiments, and the
popular Macau pork chop buns. The restaurant is noisy, but fun.
FARTHER AFIELD Jumbo Seafood 7 \
1206 East Coast Parkway, 449883 Tel 6442-3435

Located on the beach along the East Coast Parkway, with plenty of outdoor tables, Jumbo Seafood is always
packed with noisy crowds. This is hardly surprising given the divine seafood served here. The Sri Lankan crab is
succulent and well-seasoned, accompanied by tiny buns and thick chili sauces.
FARTHER AFIELD Long Beach Seafood 7 \

Every imaginable kind of seafood is served at this immensely popular restaurant. The restaurants chili crabs are
famous, but the real highlight is the dish the place claims to have invented juicy black pepper crabs oozing with
soy sauce. The seafood is sold by weight.

FARTHER AFIELD Original Sin 7 \
0162 Chip Bee Gardens, 43 Jalan Merah Saga, 278115 Tel 6475-5605
This is Singapores first Mediterranean and Middle Eastern vegetarian food restaurant. A fabulous range of starters,
salads, main dishes, pasta, and pizzas, with egg and dairy-free options, is complimented by divine desserts and an
award-winning wine list. Dont miss the polenta tower and moussaka. Alfresco dining is also available.
FARTHER AFIELD Samys Curry 7 \
Block 25, Dempsey Road, 249670 Tel 6472-2080

Non-members will have to pay a S$2 entry fee to eat at this South Indian restaurant located in a private civil service
clubhouse. There is no air conditioning, just a few old-fashioned fans turning overhead, and open windows. Hot
rice, curries, and vegetables are served on a banana leaf by a long row of constantly moving waiters.
FARTHER AFIELD Trapizza 7) \
Siloso Beach, Sentosa Island, 099891 Tel 6376-2662

A unique venue, Trapizza is a pizzeria as well as a trapeze school. Along with pizzas, a good choice of pastas,
salads, and espressos are included on the menu. Unlike the other restaurants on Sentosa that are more suited
for private dining, Trapizza is great for family outings. Seating is under pretty gazebos.
FARTHER AFIELD Au Petit Salut 7 \\
01-54 Chip Bee Gardens, 44 Jalan Merah Saga, 278115 Tel 6475-1976
Enjoy country-style cooking from southern France in a serene outdoor garden setting at this restaurant. The
pan-fried foie gras accompanied by marinated dried apricots makes a delightful starter, followed by a main
course of duck cassoulett or stuffed turkey among many others. A selection of wines is also available.
FARTHER AFIELD Mango Tree 7) \\

This beachside restaurant specializes in Indian coastal food, featuring dishes from states such as Goa and Kerala.
The Malabar seafood platter, tandoori lobster, and Kerala fish curry are all excellent choices. Book early to secure
an outdoor table and sit back to enjoy a spectacular sunset over the ocean before dinner.
FARTHER AFIELD True Blue Cuisine 7 \\
117 East Coast Road, 428805 Tel 6440-0449

This is the best place in the Katong area for Nonya cuisine where the owner-chef prepares dishes from family recipes.
Regulars swear by the ayam buah keluak, or chicken with tamarind paste, and chocolatey keluakk nuts. Unusual for
Nonya cuisine, all dishes here are pork-free. The dining room is beautifully decorated with objets dart.
FARTHER AFIELD The Cliff 7) \\\
No.2, Bukit Mintang Road, Sentosa Resort & Spa, Sentosa 099891 Tel 6275-0331
Occupying a fabulous clifftop location, this restaurant offers fantastic grilled seafood platters along with views of the
South China Sea. There is also an extensive wine list. The fragrance of frangipani fills the air and visitors sitting out
on the terrace can hear peacocks calling from the hotel grounds below.
FARTHER AFIELD Michelangelos 7 \\\
0160 Chip Bee Gardens, 44 Jalan Merah Saga, Holland Village 278115 Tel 6475-9069
One of the best restaurants in the city, Michelangelos has won almost every food and wine award in Singapore for
its outstanding Italian creations, wine selection, and impeccable service. Among the unique dishes is the charred
Australian outback ostrich in thick black pepper sauce. Reproductions of Michelangelos friezes adorn the ceiling.
FARTHER AFIELD Olive Ristorante \\\
Labrador Park, Labrador Villa Road, 119187 Tel 6479-2989

Set in a restored colonial mansion, this restaurant offers marvelous views of the sea and surrounding islands. Its
main attraction lies in stylish outdoor dining amid pristine surroundings. The cuisine is predominantly Indonesian-
Dutch, but Western dishes are also available. Light finger food and drinks are served at the caf.
FARTHER AFIELD Tung Lok Seafood Gallery 7 \\\

The Tung Lok Seafood Gallery is not as noisy as the neighboring seafood restaurants. Fresh catch is imported
every day from all over the world, so diners can enjoy fish from Australia, king crabs from Alaska, or lobsters
from Maine. Wasabii coated deep-fried prawns is the signature dish.
FARTHER AFIELD Vansh 7) \\\
14 Singapore Indoor Stadium, 2 Stadium Walk, 397691 Tel 6345-4466

Opt for a table looking out onto the Kallang River at this Indian restaurant or alternatively watch chefs create Indian
delicacies in open stainless steel kitchens. Main dishes are accompanied by rice, naan, and dal. Some dishes take
inspiration from other cultures, such as kulchass (deep-fried bread) topped with sundried tomatoes and honey.
FARTHER AFIELD Sky Dining at the Jewel Box, Mount Faber \\\\\
109 Mount Faber Road, Cable Car Station, Mount Faber Hill, 099203 Tel 6377-9688
Dine on a three-course meal on board a cable car, from Mount Faber to Sentosa Island and enjoy breathtaking views
from 230 ft (70 m) above sea level. The food is catered by award-winning restaurants and is therefore expensive. If
planning to eat here, then its worth making it in time for the gorgeous sunsets. Advance booking is advised.
\ under S$20 \\ S$2030 \\\ S$3050 \\\\ S$5070 \\\\\ over S$70
SHOPPING IN MALAYSIA
M alaysia is an affluent
country with a rapidly
developing economy. It
has an astonishing variety of
shopping options, from the latest
Malaysia, notably Kuala Lumpur,
Penang, and Johor Bahru, offer-
ing sophisticated malls, and the
smaller east coast cities, such as
Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu,
Woven bamboo
electronic gadgets to a wealth of products for sale
acting as the repository of Malay
traditional art and handicraft artistry, especially batik, colorful
items. Differences exist between the kites, and shadow puppets. Sarawak and
range, quality, and prices available in Sabah in Malaysian Borneo are unrivaled
the various regions, with the large cities for their array of ethnic products, skilfully
on the western coast of Peninsular crafted by the indigenous people.
DEPARTMENT STORES souvenirs, clothes, shoes, and Besides those in the malls,
AND SHOPPING MALLS accessories, such as bags and there are several independent
watches. Nearly all shopping department stores, such as
Shopping malls, ranging malls have fast-food outlets, Kuala Lumpurs Isetan, which
from modest establishments while the upmarket ones also is part of a Japanese chain.
to plush, air-conditioned, feature expensive restaurants.
multistory buildings, are ubiq- Many have multiplex movie LOCAL MARKETS
uitous in Malaysian towns and theaters, food courts, Internet (TAMUS) AND STALLS
cities. They contain a mix of cafs, and branches of banks
large department stores that with facilities such as money Malaysia is brimming with
sell branded goods, super- changing and A ATMs. Malls in local markets, or tamus.
markets offering both local west coast cities, especially Almost every town and village
and imported food, and those in Kuala Lumpur, has at least one bustling cen-
dozens of smaller shops that compare with the glitziest tral market, usually containing
stock everything from mobile outlets in the Western coun- a multitude of stalls offering
phones, computers, electronic tries and are an excellent a bewildering selection of
goods, and English and source of a wide range of goods, from local crafts to
Malay books, to a wealth of international luxury brands. clothes and household items.
Very often there is also a
V
wet market selling fresh
meat, fruits, and vegetables.
Numerous hawker stalls offer
an array of local delicacies.
Prices are reasonable, the
quality is generally good, and
standards of hygiene are very
high, even in fish markets,
which are regularly hosed.
Another enduringly popular
feature and a highlight of a
trip to Malaysia are its pasar
malams, or night markets.
The most fascinating of these
are in Kuala Lumpur (see
pp5677), Johor Bahru (see
p128), Penang (see pp100
109), Kuching (see pp1547),
and Kota Kinabalu (see p178).
Most state capitals and
larger towns of Malaysia and
Singapore often have ethnic
enclaves, such as Chinatown
and Little India, which are
excellent places to buy
Chinese and Indian products.
SHOPPING HOURS
Business hours for shops can

vary substantially, but most
The Sungei Wang Plaza in Kuala Lumpurs Golden Triangle
T (see p318) establishments are open from
S H O P P I N G I N M A L AY S I A 315
9am to 6:30pm, Monday to

Saturday. Malls and major
emporia open later, usually
between 10 and 10:30am until
9:30 or 10pm. In most states
in Malaysia, including Sabah
and Sarawak, Saturday is a
half day and Sunday a holi-
day. Shops in the conservative
Islamic east coast states of
Kelantan and Terengganu
are closed on Friday, the
Muslim Sabbath.
METHODS OF PAYMENT
P
Cash, preferably the Malaysian Fresh fish sold at a market in T

Tawau, Sabah
ringgit, is universally accepted
although many places also Pulau Labuan in the east, GUARANTEES
take US dollars. However, designed to attract shoppers.
money changers are found There are also duty-free areas Buyers should always be
everywhere. Credit cards are in Kelantan at Rantau Panjang careful with their selection
widely accepted except in and Pengkalan Kubur, as well at the time of purchase to
the smallest of stores. The as in Kedah at Padang Besar avoid problems later. Most
preferred cards include VISA, and Bukit Kayu Hitam. government shops and large
MasterCard, and JCB, while department stores will accept
larger establishments also BARGAINING the return of faulty goods,
accept American Express but it might not be as easily
and Diners Club cards. A few In Malaysia, bargaining is an done for products bought at
shops levy a 3 percent service accepted practice. However, street stalls, especially antique
charge, but this tendency is whether to bargain or not shops that are not recom-
becoming less common. depends on the kind of market mended or guaranteed by
shoppers are in. Top-end the government.
SALES TAX
T department stores, shopping
malls, and government empo- PHOTOGRAPHY
Currently Malaysia does not ria have fixed prices, though
impose a general sales tax the latter offer good fixed- Malaysia, like Singapore,
on goods, but VAT,
A ranging price deals. tends to be at the cutting
from 5 to 10 percent, is being In most local markets and edge of photographic tech-
introduced on all types of stalls, bargaining is not just nology. Deals are just as
imported goods. For food and accepted but is also expected. great as in Singapore, and
accommodation, however, Buyers can often obtain a sometimes better, due to good
customers can expect to pay substantial reduction in the exchange rates. The range of
a service tax of 10 percent at original price. Remember to products is excellent, though
luxury hotels and restaurants, keep the exchange polite digital technology has swept
in addition to the government and good-natured, and it is aside slide film. Print film
tax of 5 percent. Malaysia always a good idea to browse remains available, and film-
has some designated duty- in several shops and know developing facilities are
free areas, including Pulau the fair price of a product ubiquitous, fast, and cheap.
Langkawi in the west and before negotiating.
IMITATIONS
Although the sale of imitation

goods and knock-offs is
illegal in Malaysia, and there
is a growing clampdown on
the sale of illicit goods, such
products continue to be sold
at small stores and stalls.
Since most of these products
are very cheap and of poor
quality and because such
trade breaches property
rights, the purchase of fakes,
such as faux designer bags,
clothing, and illegal copies of
VCDs and DVDs, although
A busy shopping street in Kuala Lumpur at night tempting, is best avoided.
What to Buy in Malaysia

Glitzy shopping malls, bustling local markets, vibrant
pasar malamss (night markets), and small craft shops
across Malaysia offer a good range of souvenirs for visi-
tors to take home. Traditionally
T -styled Malay, Chinese,
and Indian artifacts are widely available; however,
some craft items are restricted to specific regions. The
country can boast an astonishing range of products,
including antique furniture, ikatt cloth, batikk prints,
wood carvings, and shadow puppets, besides Visitors at a chic shopping mall in
handicraft items produced by indigenous people. Kuala Lumpur
MALAY PRODUCTS
With the rising demand for ethnic Malay goods, aided by Wayang
Malaysias thriving tourism and patronage offered by the Shadow p
countrys leading banks and oil companies, art in Malaysia theater, or wa
is flourishing like never before. Malay goods are available kulit, is a Malay
almost everywhere, but are especially visible in Kuala folk art whose
Lumpur, Johor Bahru, Kelantan, and Terengganu. traditions are
passed on orally
lverware These colorfu
The best Malay silverware, leather puppets
ith its hallmark filigree are available in
mbellishments, is pro- Kelantan and
duced in Terengganu and Kuala Lumpur.
Kelantan. These areas spe-
cialize in belt buckles
and tobacco boxes.
Batik Fabric
Malay batik uses
wax and dyes to
print on fabrics.
Shirts, skirts, and
sarongs in batik-
print are best bought Songket Silk Fabrics
from Malaysias Belonging to the brocade family of
east coast. textiles, songket is handwoven on looms
and features elaborate patterns created
with a gold and silver weft.
While the prin
of traditiona
are derived
nature, deco-
rations are Ceramic
unique to each Items
crafts
t man. Kite- Shaped by
making shops hand, pottery
can be found in is produced in
villages along Selangor and
the east coast of Perak. Ayer Itam, a sma
Peninsular Malaysia. town in Peninsular Malaysia,
is known for its pottery and porcelain
crafts. The Cameron Highlands are also
a good place to buy ceramics.
Masks
Traditionally, Malaysian and Southeast Asian
masks represent people, demons, and deities.
They are cultural icons that help preserve tradi-
tion, religion, and history. Malay ceremonial
masks are commonly available in Malacca.
PRODUCTS FROM MALAYSIAN BORNEO

Sabah and Sarawak are unrivaled for items crafted
by indigenous people and by Malay Christians,
including fine ikatt cloth, shamanistic religious
paraphernalia, and wood carvings.
Ikat Design
Often a symbol of status and power, ikat,
meaning to tie in Malay, is a style of
weaving created by dyeing the warp.
The best ikat is produced in Sarawak.
Wood Carvin
Wood carvings depictin
people, spirits, and anima
Bamboo Products in the shamanistic tra
Items made of bamboo, palm leaf, and rattan, dition are widely availabl
l
including finely woven baskets and hats, are avail- in Kuching, Kota Kinabalu
able in bazaars throughout Sarawak and Sabah. and at Selangors sma
Orang Asli Museum.
CHINESE PRODUCTS
Malaysia is especially popular for locally Good Luck Charms
produced Peranakan or Straits Chinese goods, Chinese good luck
including antique furniture and ceramics. charms in bright,
Standard Chinese wares are imported from r
attractive colors
Hong Kong and the Chinese mainland. make cheap and
fun purchases.
They are available
almost everywhere.
Chinese Antique
Furniture nese Ceramics
Antique furniture ba-Nonya
- vases,
-
of the Baba-Nonya which are unique
tradition, made to Malaysia,
from hardwood and imported
with exquisite carv- chinaware are
ings, is available available in big
in Malacca, where retail outlets
Jalan Hang Jebat in Malacca,
(see p124) is a on the west cost
treasure-house for Peninsular
antique lovers. Malaysia.
INDIAN PRODUCTS Brassware

Indian enclaves in Penang, Kuala Lumpur, and Fine brass goods,
Johor Bahru exude a heady aroma of spices and a Tamil tradition
have several authentic silk stores recreating an transplanted to
ambience similar to that in Southern Indian states. Malaysia, comprise
household objects,
decoratives,
r and
an Silk religious items.
arees
raditional Indian Spices
uthern Indian Spices, such as
chipuram pepper, carda-
arees are mom, saffron,
able in the cloves, mace,
c stores of nutmeg, and
e India in cinnamon,
rgetown as are widely
s in shopping available in
oss Malaysia. Malaysia.
Where to Shop
There are good shops just about everywhere in
Malaysia, from big cities on the peninsula to smaller
towns and villages in Malaysian Borneo. The larger
metropolises, especially Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Johor
Bahru, and Kuching, have fantastic malls selling a fine
range of products. The smaller east coast cities, such
as Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu, are the center
of traditional Malay arts and crafts, while Sarawak
and Sabah are unrivaled for their ethnic goods.
KUALA LUMPUR Rahman ((see p70) offers great

bargains, with the Globe Silk An antiques store displaying
The main shopping areas in Store popular for tailor-made Peranakan artifacts, Malacca
Kuala Lumpur are around clothes. The street springs to
Bukit Bintang and Jalan life at night with a pasar PULAU LANGKAWI
Sultan Ismail in the heart of malam. Jalan Petaling (see
the Golden T Triangle. Major p64) is great for DVDs. One of the major attractions
shopping malls here include of Pulau Langkawi is its status
Bukit Bintang Plaza, Lot 10, PENANG as a duty-free shopping zone.
Starhill Gallery, and the huge The islands capital, Kuah, is
new mall, Berjaya Times After Kuala Lumpur, the best where most duty-free shops
Square. Sungei Wang Plaza place to shop is Penang, with are located. Popular outlets
and Low Yat Plaza, also in the outlets selling local crafts, include the Langkawi Fair
Golden T Triangle, specialize in antiques, and electronic items Shopping Mall and the Jetty
electronic goods. Among the at competitive prices. Jalan Point Duty-Free Complex,
upmarket malls, Suria KLCC Penang is the best shopping both in Kuah. The Zon
inside the Petronas Towers street in Georgetown, with DutyFree Shopping Paradise
(see p73) is stunning, and the Komtar, a shopping mall at Pantai Cenang and Sunmall
Mid Valley Megamall is also located in a massive 56-story at Pantai Tengah are worth
worth visiting. Perhaps the building, and Chowrasta visiting, although they mainly
best market in Malaysia is Bazaar for spices. 100 Cintra stock cosmetics, cigarettes,
Central Market, which is Street (see p104) has an inter- and alcohol.
the place to shop for local esting antique and curio
souvenirs. There is a great center, while Little India MALACCA
variety of batikk and handicraft (see p103) offers an array
goods for sale at Kompleks of southern Indian products. The restored Chinese district
Budaya Kraf ((see p75). The Batu Ferringhi (see p108) has in Malacca is the place to
market at Jalan Tuanku Abdul a vibrant night market. look for antiques, both gen-
uine and imitation, as well
as all kinds of Chinese and
Peranakan goods. Jalan Hang
Jebat (see p124) sells beautiful
porcelain, coins, old lamps,
songkett fabric, and antique
furniture. There are a range
of handicraft and souvenir
shops in Taman Merdeka
and a pasar malam on Jalan
Paramesawara. The Mahkota
Parade shopping complex on
Jalan Merdeka is Malaccas
largest shopping venue.
JOHOR BAHRU
Regarded as one of Malaysias

most prosperous towns, Johor
Bahru is located across the
causeway from Singapore,
whose citizens often come
to shop, notably at Komplex
Lien Hoe, Pelangi Leisure
Mall, Perling Mall, and Plaza
Jalan Petaling, the commercial heart of Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur Pelangi in Johor Bahru. All
these malls specialize in KUCHING, SARAWAK KOTA

T KINABALU, SABAH
designer goods, clothing,
luxury goods, and accessories. Kuching is one of Malaysias The capital of Sabah, Kota
The Johor Area Rehabilitation best shopping destinations, Kinabalu, has several local
Project on Jalan Sungai Chat rivaled only by Penang and handicraft shops selling goods
sells handicrafts and furniture. Malacca. The city is filled with of reasonable quality. The
stores selling souvenirs, ikat Filipino Market (see p179)
KOTA
T BHARU AND cloth, and Asian antiques. It at the waterfront is the best
KUALA TERENGGANU also specializes in artifacts market and sells basketware
made by indigenous peoples. and colorful woven ponchos.
The east coast of Peninsular Jalan Satoks Sunday market The products on display
Malaysia abounds with shops sells a variety of crafts and serve as a reminder of how
selling traditional Malay crafts fresh produce. Demonstrations much closer Sabah is to
such as batikk and songket of these crafts are held daily the Philippines than to
fabric, silverware, wood at Sarawak Handicraft Center. Peninsular Malaysia.
carvings, and colorful kites.
The handicraft workshops
along the road to Pantai
Cahaya Bulan and Kompleks
Bazaar Buluh Kubu in Kota
Bharu are good stops for their
displays of batik items.
In Kuala Terengganu, Jalan
Bandar near the Central
Market has several small
shops selling local handicrafts
and batikk cloth, which are
open on all days except on
Fridays. The Noor Arfa Craft
Complex is also a favorite for
traditional crafts, especially
batikk and songket. Woman selling batik silk in the new Central Market in Kota Bharu
DIRECTORY
KUALA LUMPUR Mid Valley Langkawi Fair Perling Mall
Megamall Shopping Mall Jalan Persisiran Perling.
Berjaya Times Federal Highway. Persian Putra, Kuah. Tel (07) 241-5058.
Square Tell (03) 7938-3333. Tel (04) 969-8100. www.pelangi-bhd.com
1 Jalan Imbi. Map 5 C3.
www.midvalley.com.my Sunmall
Tel (03) 2144-9988. Plaza Pelangi
www.timessquarekl.com Starhill Gallery Jalan Teluk Baru. Tel (07) Jalan Kuning.
www.starhillgallery.com. 955-8300. www.sun Tel (07) 276-2216.
Bukit Bintang Plaza grouplangkawi.com www.allmalaysia.info
Jalan Bukit Bintang. Sungei Wang Plaza
Map 5 C3. 99 Bukit Bintang. Zon Duty Free
Shopping Paradise KOTA
T BHARU
Tel (03) 4252-1781. Map 6 D3. AND KUALA
Pantai Cenang.
www.allmalaysia.info Tel (03) 2144-9988. TERENGGANU
Tel (04) 955-6100.
www.sungeiwang.com
Central Market Kompleks Bazaar
Jalan Hang Kasturi. MALACCA
PENANG Buluh Kubu
Map 4 E2. Tel (03) 2274-
Mahkota Parade Central Market, Kota
6542. www.central Chowrasta Bazaar
1 Jalan Merdeka. Bharu. Tel (09) 743-7302.
market.com.my Jalan Penang, Penang.
Tel (06) 282-6151. www.allmalaysia.info
Globe Silk Store Komtar www. allmalaysia.info Noor Arfa Craft
159 Jalan Tuanku Abdul Jalan Penang. Complex
Rahman. Map 5 C3. Tel (04) 269-9000. JOHOR BAHRU
Chendering Terengganu.
Tel (03) 2692-2888. www.allmalaysia.info
Komplex Lien Hoe Tell (09) 617-5700.
www.allmalaysia.info
Jalan Sutera. www.virtualmalaysia.com
Lot 10 PULAU LANGKAWI
Tel (07) 334-0177.
Map 5 C3. www.allmalaysia.info KUCHING
Jetty Point Duty-
www.ytlcommunity.com
Free Complex Pelangi Leisure Mall Sarawak Handicraft
Low Yat Plaza Kuah Jetty. Jalan Serampang Center
Lot 7, Jalan 1/77. Tel (04) 966-5309. Teman Pelangi. 32 Jalan Tun Haji Openg.
Tel (03) 2148-3651. www.jettypointlangkawi. Tel (07) 335-2317. Tel (082) 245-652. www.
www.plazalowyat.com com/dutyfree_shops.htm www.allmalaysia.info sarawakhandicraft.com
ENTER TAINMENT IN MALAY

A SIA
E ntertainment in Malaysia
can range from a traditional
dance performance by the
indigenous Iban people to the h
nightclubs in Kuala Lumpur. As th
ater for night-time revelry with a
ety of nightclubs and karaoke
Malaysias festivals through the
(see pp5053) are often accom-
anied by traditional performing
capital, Kuala Lumpur boasts a arts. Theme parks, such as the
wide choice of entertainment, one at Genting Highlands, are
including theater, concerts, and a great way to enjoy an all-day
art exhibitions. However, state ing with children, while cinema
capitals such as Johor Bahru usiasts can watch the latest
Kuching, and Kota Kinabalu Male Iban dancer Hollywood films at multiplexes.
gallery also hosts rotating

exhibitions throughout the
year. Another impressive art
gallery is Galeri Petronas at
Suria KLCC (see p73), which
has three separate halls of
international standard. It
houses Malaysias largest pri-
vate art collection. For detailed
information on Kuala Lumpurs
other art galleries it is best to
visit the Kakiseni website.
THEME PARKS
Peninsular Malaysia has

Contemporary artwork at the National Art Gallery (see p71), Kuala Lumpur several theme parks that offer
exciting all-day amusement
EVENT LISTINGS new establishments provide for the entire family. Children
such amenities. Call individual especially enjoy the action-
For comprehensive listings of venues in advance to check packed environment. One
current and upcoming events for details before booking. of the more popular venues
including art exhibitions, is the Genting Theme Park
theatrical performances, and ART EXHIBITIONS (see p90), Malaysias first and
concerts in Kuala Lumpur, biggest theme park, which
check English-language dailies There are several art halls in has both indoor and outdoor
such as The Sun, The Star, Kuala Lumpur, which host activities. Among the exten-
and New Straits Times. Other frequently changing exhibi- sive entertainment choices
useful publications are KLUE, tions. The National Art Gallery are roller-coaster rides, amuse-
a monthly arts review, and (see p71) showcases works of ment arcades, a 32-lane
Juice, a monthly magazine over 2,500 artists and painters, bowling alley, the Awana
A
that lists the trendiest clubs. especially works by contem- Equestrian Ranch, and a
Up-to-date listings from all porary Malaysian artists. The cineplex, as well as music
these publications are also
available on their official web-
sites. In addition, the Kakiseni
and KL This Month websites
also offer a wealth of infor-
mation regarding places to
stay, restaurants, outdoor
activities, and street maps.
There is no central ticket
booking organization in
Kuala Lumpur, so it is nec-
essary to contact each venue
directly or ask hotel staff for
help with booking tickets.
Unfortunately, not many
entertainment venues are
equipped with facilities for
the disabled, although most Exciting rides at the Genting Theme Park (see p90)
E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N M A L AY S I A 321
Kelantan. One good

place to catch a show
is at Gelanggang Seni
in Kota Bharu (see
pp1467) and a typical
performance often lasts
about 8 hours. Chinese
opera, or wayang, a
mix of dialog, dance,
and music is also tradi-
tionally performed in
the country. Street
shows are held mostly
during festivals such
as the Chinese New
Year (see p28). Musicians playing a traditional
Malay instrument
CINEMA
traditional Malaysian music is
Kuala Lumpur and big based largely around several
The long-running Coliseum Cinema towns around the types of drums an influence
country have numer- of the gamelan and other
and theater performances. ous movie halls and multiplex percussion instruments.
Another favorite hangout is cinemas, which screen the Modern composers are con-
the Mines Wonderland, which latest Hollywood releases, stantly experimenting with
has a Snow House filled with usually with the original a fusion of new and tradi-
ice sculptures, ice skating soundtrack and subtitles in tional instruments such as
rinks, and exciting rides. It Malay and Chinese. Movies synthesizers in an attempt to
also presents Light Fantasy on from China, India, and other keep classical music popular
Water, and a sound and light Asian countries are also among the younger gener-
show. Wet World Water Park screened. Most cinemas have ation. Trad
T itional music perfor-
in Shah Alam (see p76) and air conditioning. Some of mances are frequently held
Sunway Lagoon are water the biggest cinema chains at the Malaysian Tourism
theme parks with water are Golden Screen Cinemas, Information Complex (see p74)
chutes and wave pools. Tanjong Golden Village, and
T and the National Theater (see
Cathay Cineplexes. The oldest p71) both in Kuala Lumpur.
THEAT
A ER cinema in Kuala Lumpur, still Occasionally the National
functioning today, is the Theater hosts classical music
Kuala Lumpur hosts a great Coliseum Cinema (see p70). concerts featuring the National
variety of theatrical perfor- Cinema listings, show times, Symphony Orchestra. The
mances throughout the year. and tickets are available on main classical venue in Kuala
Apart from touring Broadway the Cinema Online website. Lumpur is Dewan Filharmonik
hits, traditional and experi- Petronas. This was Malaysias
mental musicals, comedies, TRADITIONAL AND first classical concert hall and
and tragedies written by inter- CLASSICAL MUSIC is home to the Malaysian
national as well as local play- Philharmonic Orchestra. It
wrights, are also staged. Reflecting a blend of cultures, stages classical concerts and
There is a particularly active predominantly Indian, Chinese, hosts local and international
fringe theater scene in Kuala Muslim, and Indonesian, cultural performances.
Lumpur, with groups such
as Instant Caf producing
thought-provoking plays. The
venues are as varied as the
productions, ranging from the
state-of-the-art Kuala Lumpur
Performing Arts Center to
the simple Old China Caf.
Traditional Malaysian theater
T
is the shadow puppet play,
or wayang kulit, accompanied
by a gamelan, music played
by a traditional Indonesian
percussion orchestra. Once the
main form of entertainment
in Malay villages, it is now
mostly performed in some
rural parts of the east coast
states of Terengganu and The grand auditorium at the Dewan Filharmonik Petronas
PUBS, BARS, AND

KARAOKE
Kuala Lumpur has a dizzying

range of nightlife haunts that
cater to every taste. The great-
est concentration of pubs and
bars is in the Golden Triangle
T
(see p74). Located here is
Planet Hollywood, an inter-
national bar and restaurant
chain that sprawls over three
floors, as well as the Beach
Club Caf, which mostly plays
old favorites and is often
Hard Rock Caf, one of the best venues in Kuala Lumpur for live bands packed to the rafters. The
capitals other pulsating night-
CONTEMPORARY MUSIC drama, dance, and operatic spot is around Bangsar. Bars
singing. Originally presented such as Finnegans serving
Extremely popular among only in Kelantans royal Kilkenny beer and La Bodega
Malaysian youth, contem- courts, it is now enjoyed by with its Spanish ambience
porary western music often all. Silat is an elegant dance infuse it with a cosmopolitan
provides inspiration for local that developed from martial feel. Another bar worth a visit
groups who accompanied by for lovers of rhythm and blues
Malay that ar music. It is often music is Modestos.
rock, hip-ho at weddings and Karaoke is hugely popular
ground beats ne of the most in most Asian countries, and
Touring pop ances from Malaysia is no exception.
stars of inter is the datun julud, Among Kuala Lumpurs chic,
national repu nbill dance. Created luxurious, and commonly
occasionally Kenyah people, it visited karaoke bars are
perform in K ed on the story of Cherry Blossom, Deluxe Nite
Lumpur. The nce blessed with a Club, and Club De Vegas.
of the Stars s dson and involves Other main towns in the
in Genting H gle female dancer country with a fair choice of
(see p90) is a waves fans of pubs and bars are Kuching,
venue for su bill feathers to the Johor Bahru, Kota Kinabalu,
Some of the nd of a sape, or a and several in Penang. Since
popular cont tional guitar. A drinks can be expensive in
live music ve d place to enjoy Malaysia, it is worth looking
Kuala Lumpur are the Dancer traditional music and out for places that offer
Hard Rock Caf, performing dance in Sarawak is happy hour prices, typically
No Black Tie, and Titus datun julud the Sarawak Cultural two drinks for the price of
Blues. Many famous Village (see p159). one. Generally, happy hour
DJs from Europe also visit
D In Kuala Lumpur, dance is between 5 and 8pm. Many
Kuala Lumpurs hippest clubs. performances are held at the bars feature live music, espe-
Malaysia Tourism Information cially at weekends, for which
TRADITIONAL DANCE Complex, as well as at the there is usually a cover charge
National Theater. of around RM20.
R
Like its music, Malaysias
traditional dances are strongly
influenced by Islamic, Indian,
and Chinese cultures, though
they have evolved into their
own unique styles. Many of
these dance forms continue
to enjoy widespread popu-
larity in the country and are
performed during special
occasions and festivals.
Perhaps the most popular
traditional dance is joget,
which has its origins in
Portuguese folk dance and
is performed by couples who
blend fast and graceful move-
ments with playful humor.
Mak yongg combines romantic Men performing silat, or a traditional martial art dance, in Kelantan
E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N M A L AY S I A 323
NIGHTCLUBS AND international DJs.

D Among the clubbing complex. Discos
DISCOS trendiest places are Zouk, The tend to be located in upmar-
Loft, Maison, Atmosphere, ket shopping malls or in
Although nightclubs and and Bliss, the last two of hotels, and among the most
discos can be found in all which are situated in Twelve popular clubs are Liquid and
large Malaysian towns, Kuala SI, Kuala Lumpurs biggest Sugar Club.
Lumpur has the widest choice
of venues. Most places dont
pick up pace until around
10pm, but are throbbing with
life until the early hours of
dawn. Several locations
feature Ladies Nights when
women can get free entry.
The popularity of individual
clubs tends to fluctuate, but
the hottest spots in town can
usually be found around the
junction of Jalan P. Ramlee
and Jalan Sultan Ismail. Most
places play European and
British house music, and fre-
quently feature well-known A crowded dance floor in a Malaysian club
DIRECTORY
EVENT LISTINGS Old China Caf No Black Tie Modestos
11, Jalan Balai Polis, 17 Lorong Mesui, Sri Hartamas, Kuala
Juice Kuala Lumpur. Kuala Lumpur. Lumpur. Map 2 E5.
www.juiceonline.com Tell (03) 2072-5915. Tel (03) 2142-3737. Tel (03) 6201-7898.
Kakiseni Titus Blues Planet Hollywood
www.kakiseni.com
CINEMA
7 Jalan Balai Polis, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala
Cathay Cineplexes Kuala Lumpur. Lumpur. Map 6 D2.
KL This Month
2 Selangor Darul Ehsan. Tel (03) 2070-8191. Tel (03) 244-6602.
www.klthismonth.com
Tel (03) 7727-8051.
KLUE PUBS, BARS, AND NIGHTCLUBS AND
www.klue.com.my Cinema Online KARAOKE DISCOS
www.cinemaonline.
New Straits Times com.my Beach Club Caf Atmosphere
www.nst.com.my 97 Jalan P. Ramlee, Jalan Sultan Ismail,
Golden Screen Kuala Lumpur. Map 2 D5.
The Star Kuala Lumpur.
Cinemas Tel (03) 2166-9919.
www.thestar.com.my Tell (03) 2145-9198.
Mid Valley Megamall,
Bangsar. Cherry Blossom Bliss
The Sun
Tel (03) 2938-3366. Sun Kompleks, Off Jalan 12 Jalan Sultan Ismail,
www.sun2surf.com
Bukit Bintang, Kuala Kuala Lumpur.
Tanjong Golden
T Lumpur. Map 5 C5.
THEME PARKS
P Village Liquid
Tel (03) 2144-4895.
Level 3 Suria KLCC. Map Jalan Hang Kasturi.
Mines Wonderland 2 F5. Tel (03) 7492-2929. Club De Vegas
Seri Kembangan, Selangor. 3 Jalan Imbi, Kuala Maison
Tel (03) 8943-6688. TRADITIONAL AND Lumpur. Map 5 C3. 8 Jalan Yap Ah Shak,
www.mineswonderland. CLASSICAL MUSIC Tel (03) 2141-3888. Kuala Lumpur. Map 1 B5.
com.my Tel (03) 2698-3328.
Dewan Filharmonik Deluxe Nite Club
Sunway Lagoon Ampang Park Shopping Sugar Club
Petronas
11/11 Bandar Sunway, Center, Jalan Ampang, Jalan Sultan Ismail,
Petronas Towers. Map
Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Kuala Lumpur. Kuala Lumpur.
2 F4. Tel (03) 2051-7007.
Tel (03) 5635-8000. Tel (03) 2162-1399. Tel (03) 2143-0020.
www.
malaysianfilharmonik.com Finnegans The Loft
THEATER Jalan Doraisamy, Kuala
51 Jalan Sultan Ismail,
CONTEMPORARY Kuala Lumpur. Lumpur. Map 1 B4.
Kuala Lumpur
MUSIC Tel (03) 2145-1930. Tel (03) 2691-5668.
Performing Arts
Center Hard Rock Caf La Bodega Zouk
Jalan Strachan, Kuala Jalan Sultan Ismail, 31 Tengkat Tong Shin, Jalan Ampang, Kuala
Lumpur. Tel (03) 4047- Kuala Lumpur. Map 2 D5. Kuala Lumpur. Lumpur. Map 2 E4.
7000. www.klpac.com Tel (03) 2715-5555. Tel (03) 2142-6368. Tel (03) 2171-1997.
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
IN MALAYSIA
F rom the summit of Gunu
Kinabalu to the depths of th
South China Sea, Malaysi
offers an array of opportunities to
enjoy the countrys natural wonder
norkeling. The oldest rain forests in
he world with their towering trees,
ngled vines, and gaping limestone
aves are wonderful to explore.
Tour agents cater to the needs of
Pristine offshore islands such a pecial interest groups, from
Langkawi, Tioman, and Sipadan climbers to bird-watchers, while
attract divers with their stun- river cruises are a comfortable
ning coral reefs and rich marine way of visiting the mangrove
life. Most beach resorts offer AGunung
trekker climbing
Kinabalu
s wamps on the coast of
adventure sports such as wind- Malaysian Borneo. The agreeable
surfing, parasailing, waterskiing and climate is perfect for golf enthusiasts.
permits for professional

filming and photography, as
well as for activities such as
trekking and fishing. These
can be obtained either at the
park itself or, if in Sarawak,
from the National Parks
Booking Offices. Many parks
offer accommodations and,
while it is not mandatory to
book in advance for all, it is
advisable to do so as preserves
and parks tend to get busy,
especially during weekends
and holidays. Some parks
Speedboat tour at Bako National Park (see pp1623), Sarawak may require permits for
camping. The National Parks
GUIDED TOURS BOOKINGS AND PERMITS Booking Offices also handle
FOR NATION
A AL PARKS accommodation bookings.
Tourism in Malaysia is well
developed and tour operators, At most national parks and TREKKING
such as CPH TTravel Agency reserves in Malaysia, visitors
and Asian Overland Services, can pay the entry fees at Park Malaysias national parks are
offer a wide range of choices. Headquarters within the ideal for those wishing to trek
Depending on a visitors time reserves boundaries or at the through scenic landscape and
and budget, everything from entrance. However, booking observe the countrys wildlife.
a half-day city tour to a 10-day in advance is necessary for a At over 13,436 ft (4,095 m),
tour of the country is available. few of the parks, such as Sabahs Gunung Kinabalu is
Independent travelers can Tanjung Datu National Park one of the highest peaks in
join tour groups, such as S.I. (see p160) and Semenggoh the world that can be climbed
T
Tours and Exotic Adventure, Nature Reserve (see
to visit sights and participate p161). Permits and
in activities that would entrance tickets can
otherwise be prohibitively be obtained at the
expensive. For example, a National Parks
tour is the best way to access Booking Office in
Sarawaks Mulu National Park Kuching (see pp1545)
(see pp17071), hike up or at its branch in Miri.
Gunung Kinabalu (see pp184 Visitors entering
7) in Sabah, or join a white- Endau-Rompin
water rafting expedition down National Park (see
Sungai Padas (see p181). The p137) from Johor also
advantage of joining a guided have the option of
tour is that the local guides buying a permit from
knowledge can enrich the the Johor State
experience of visiting a place Economic Unit. Some
you may never return to. parks require official Braving the Pinnacles at Mulu National Park
UTDOOR ACTIVITIES IN M A L AY S I A 325
CAVIN
A G
Malaysias landscape, riddled

with some of the worlds
largest limestone caves, lures
spelunkers from around the
world. Many guas, or caves,
such as Langs Cave in
Gulung Mulu, are covered
with beautiful stalactites and
stalagmites, while others,
such as the nearby Deer
Cave, offer opportunities for
adventure caving, following
rarely visited routes.
The caves at Niah (see
p168) and Mulu National Park
in Sarawak attract millions of
Following the jungle trail near Asah waterfall (see p130), Southern Peninsula bats and birds, which roost in
their dank interiors. Sabahs
without special climbing in Sarawak has several easy Gomantong Caves (see p191)
equipment, so it is not sur- trails, while Gunung Mulu are famed for their swiftlet
prising that hundreds set out and Gunung Kinabalu test the nests. Locals clamber up
every day with the intention fittest of walkers. Peradayan bamboo poles to retrieve the
of standing on its summit. Forest Reserve in Brunei also nests, considered a gastro-
Park authorities advise against offers many good trails. nomic delicacy by some. The
climbing Kinabalu indepen- Most of Malaysias forests best time to see the caves
dently and hiring a guide is are ecologically fragile and wildlife is at dusk, during the
recommended. A climbing protected by the Department changeover when bats come
permit can be purchased on of Wildlife and National Parks. hurtling out for their night
arrival at Park Headquarters. While many visitors opt to feeding and swiftlets return
Most climbers take two days trek on their own following to their nests.
to reach this summit with an color-coded trails, treks can Though smaller than the
overnight stay in one of the be organized by the depart- caves in Borneo, the illumi-
mountain huts, such as the ment or private companies, nated caverns at Tempurong
one at Laban Rata, 10,738 ft such as Borneo Adventures or in Selangor and the Hindu
(3,273 m) above sea level. It Utan Bara Adventure Team
T . shrines at Batu Caves (see
is essential to pre-book, par- Hikers should shield p90) are remarkable. For
ticularly in the peak season themselves from the sun and those intrigued by their hid-
( pril). Wear good walking
(A drink lots of water to avoid den recesses, the Malaysian
boots and warm, waterproof dehydration. Leech socks can Nature Society Caving Group
clothing, and bring a sleeping also be very useful, especially offers quick courses and
bag, water, and high-energy during the wet season. arranges cave explorations.
food. A flashlight is invaluable
since climbs can start early in
the morning to catch the
sunrise at the summit.
For less strenuous climbs,
there are alternatives, ranging
from a trek up Taman Negaras
Gunung Tahan (see pp1389)
to the climb up Sarawaks
Gunung Mulu (see p171) or
the Pinnacles on Gunung Api
(see p171). Malaysias terrain
is challenging, and it is wise
to trek with local tour com-
panies, such as Suniland
Travel and Tours
T T Sdn Bhd.
In parks that lie within the
protected area of Sarawak
Forestry Corporation, such
as Mulu National Park, guides
are mandatory while trekking.
Taman Negara is best for
beginners as it has trails for
every level of ability. Bako
National Park (see pp1623) Gua Kelam, or cave of darkness, in Kuala Perlis
Diving in Malaysia
The idyllic islands scattered around to spot are whale sharks, manta rays,
the coast of Malaysia provide easy starfish, and a variety of sea turtles.
access to the countrys spectacular The monsoon season reduces visibility
dive sites. While Malaysia is a strong and makes diving less rewarding. The
draw for experienced divers, it is also best time to visit the west coast of
a good training ground for amateurs, Peninsular Malaysia is from November
with numerous diving outfits offering to May, while March to October are
lessons (see p329) in the waters the ideal months for a trip to the east
around islands such as Pulau Tioman, coast of the peninsula and around
Pulau Redang, and the Perhentian Sabah and Sarawak. The islands off
Islands. Some of the more common the southwest coast of Sabah are
marine creatures that divers can hope suitable for diving all year round.
TYPES OF DIVING MALAYSIAS BEST

Malaysias coastline offers wreck diving, snorkeling, and
coral reef diving. While wreck dives enable experienced DIVE SITES
divers to glimpse Malaysias underwater treasures, coral Miri see p168
reefs can be explored by snorkelers and scuba divers. Perhentian Islands see p142
Pulau Kapas see p140
Wreck dives allow Pulau Labuan see p180
divers to explore Pulau Lankayan see p191
old shipwrecks. Pulau Redang see p142
The easiest wreck Pulau Sipadan see pp1945
to navigate is Pulau Sulug see p179
the Cement Pulau Tenggol see p140
Wreck, which Pulau Tioman see pp13031
sank in 1980
off the coast
of Labuan.
Scuba diving in Malaysia offers the opportunity to expe- Snorkeling needs only a mask and
rience its coral reef system, which supports aquatic a snorkel. It is the best way to watch
organisms numbering up to at least 200 species. underwater life at close quarters.
MARINE LIFE
The waters off Malaysia are a treasure trove of Starfish, also
marine species. East coast islands such as Tioman known as sea
are home to black marlin and yellowfin, schools stars, are bright
of barracuda, and reef sharks. and vibrantly
colored. These
boneless species
Green sea turtles

are an endangered
Whale sharks are gentle and species. The adult
slow plankton-feeding
- sharks. The turtles algae diet is
largest living fish species, they grow responsible for its
to 39 ft (12 m) in length. green color.
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES IN M A L AY S I A 327
and protective jackets and

have to be good swimmers.
The experience varies, as
rivers offer a sedate drift in
the drier months and a soak-
ing roller-coaster ride after
severe rain. Children above
12 are allowed on such trips
provided they are good swim-
mers and are accompanied by
parents or legal guardians.
RIVER CRUISES
A comparatively recent
phenomenon on Malaysias
ecotourism scene is a cruise
White-water rafting along one of Malaysias rivers through lush rain forests and
mangrove swamps. These
DIVING AND WHITE-WATER RAFTING cruises usually set out in the
SNORKELING early mornings or late after-
The frothing rivers that noons, and as the boat glides
Diving in Malaysia has grown tumble out of Malaysias rug- over the water, knowledge-
in popularity in recent years. ged mountains become rapids able guides help spot long-tail
Numerous scuba diving and en route to the sea. They macaques, silver langurs, and
marine clubs as well as beach once formed an impassable proboscis monkeys, as well
resorts offer equipment for barrier for many explorers. as birds such as hornbills
hire. Most dive operators have Today, however, they form feeding in the trees close to
five-day PPADI courses leading the perfect setting for a white- the waters edge.
to certification as a diver and water rafting adventure. Such cruises are available
also organize trips to dive Rapids are graded from Class in Pulau Langkawi (see
sites. Borneo Divers and Sea I to V
V, but anything above pp1125) and Taman Negara
Sports, Pulau Sipadan Resort Class III will need an expert (see pp1701) on the pen-
and Tours
T , and Borneo Sea guide. One of the top sites is insula, or at the Klias
Adventures are some of Sabahs spectacular Padas Wetlands (see p180) and
Malaysias best tour operators. Gorge (see p181) with Class Kinabatangan Wildlife
In several places, coral reefs IIIIV
V rapids that leave pad- Sanctuary in Sabah (see
are in shallow water, making dlers exhilarated. Sungai p191). Irrawaddy dolphins
it easy for snorkelers to get Sungkei and Sungai Kampar are occasionally seen splash-
among them and explore the in Perak, north of Kuala ing in the shallows around
pristine vistas and vibrant Lumpur, feature gentler rapids. the mouth of the Sungai
corals. However, care should No previous experience Santubong in Sarawak. On dis-
be taken not to touch the is necessary for white-water embarking from the cruise,
corals as they can sting and rafting, as tour operators such tour groups such as S.I. Tours
T
are easily damaged. The num- as Nomad Adventure and and Borneo Eco Tours
T often
ber of divers permitted at any Exotic Adventure run through treat their guests to a buffet
one time in Pulau Sipadan safety procedures before set- dinner before driving them
(see pp1945) is limited, and ting off. Rafters wear helmets back to their hotels.
booking in advance is wise.
WATERSPORTS
Paragliding, windsurfing,
waterskiing, wakeboarding,
and jetskiing are just some
of the watersports on offer
at Malaysias beach resorts.
Sea Quest T
Tours and Travel
T
organizes glass-bottom boat
cruises along the coast. They
also arrange sunset cruises
and island-hopping tours.
Some travel insurance com-
panies do not cover injuries
sustained while indulging
in watersports, so policies
should be checked before
signing up. Kayaking tour in mangrove swamps
BIRD-WATCHING
With more than 600 identified

species, Malaysia is a paradise
for bird-watchers. Part of the
reason for this great diversity
is that Malaysia has many
different habitats, including
montane forests, lowland
forests, mangrove swamps,
and wetlands, which provide
good nesting conditions for
all kinds of birds. Apart from
the eight varieties of hornbill
that can be seen gliding over
the rainforest canopy, crested
serpent eagles, mangrove
pittas, kingfishers, and
trogons delight bird-watchers.
In Malaysian Borneo,
Sarawak is the perfect place
for a wildlife holiday and is
often referred to as the Land
A golfer enjoying a round in a spectacular setting of the Hornbill. Kinabalu
National Park (see pp1845) 5
GOLF rarer species. Frasers Hill and in Sabah has a fantastic
Taman Negara (see pp1389) variety of flycatchers and
With affordable caddies, low are both easily accessible wild- magpies. Among the best
green fees, and equipment life-spotting areas. locations on Peninsular
hire at reasonable rates, the Another popular activity is Malaysia for bird-watching
countrys well-planned an organized tour to spot are Kuala Selangor Nature
courses attract golfers from orangutans in their natural Park and Frasers Hill, where
all over the world. Day visi- habitat at Semonggoh Nature swiftlets and cuckoos predom-
tors can usually enjoy a game Reserve in Sarawak (see p161), inate. Enthusiastic twitchers
of golf by paying a fee. or at Sepilok Orangutan might like to join in one of
Almost 200 golf courses Rehabilitation Center (see many birding events, such as
are currently available in the p190) in Sabah. Wildlife the Frasers Hill International
country, with locations rang- enthusiasts can also see green Bird Race (see p90) that takes
ing from the cool Frasers Hill and hawksbill turtles nesting place annually in June.
(see p91) to the sandy coast- and observe hatchlings being Borneo Mainland Travel
line of Borneo. A few of the released by rangers on islands and Tours, Kingfisher Tours,
most popular courses in such as Gulisan, Bakungan Malaysian Nature Society
Peninsular Malaysia include Kecil, and Pulau Selingam, Birding Group, and Wild Asia
the Royal Selangor Golf Club and on a trip to Turtle Island are among the tour operators
and Cameron Highlands Golf National Park (see p190). and groups that organize bird-
Club. On the outskirts of Kuala WWF, the global conservation watching. Binoculars, a good
Lumpur is the designer Mines organization, plans events to field-guide, and a hat will
Resort Golf and Country Club support the terrain threatened prove to be very useful on
course. North Borneo Tours by poaching and deforestation. a bird-watching trip.
and Travels Sdn Bhd provides
information about the Damai
Golf Club and the Borneo
Golf and Country Club.
WILDLIFE VIEWING
People visit Malaysia in great

numbers to view its tropical
biodiversity comprising over
200 kinds of mammals, many
thousands of flowering plants,
and a spectrum of butterflies.
Malaysias wildlife includes
orangutans, Borneo gibbons,
proboscis monkeys, and
hornbills. It may be necessary
to trek through jungles or
climb up mountains to spot Enthusiastic bird-watchers on a jungle tour
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES IN M A L AY S I A 329
DIRECTORY
GUIDED TOURS Sarawak Forestry WHITE-WATER Royal Selangor
Corporation RAFTING Golf Club
Asian Overland Hock Lee Center, Jalan
Services Jalan Kelab Golf,
Datuk Abang Abdul Exotic Adventure
Ampang point, Lot 1, 1st Floor, Off Jalan Tun Razak,
Rahim, Kuching, Sarawak.
Kuala Lumpur. Tel (082) 348-001. Block D, Segama Complex, Kuala Lumpur. Map 6 F4.
Tell (03) 4252-9100. www.sarawakforestry. Kota Kinabalu, Sabah. Tel (603) 9206-3333.
www.asianoverland.com com Tel (088) 253-493. www.rsgc.com.my
www.exotic-adventure.
CPH Travel Agency Suniland Travel and
com WILDLIFE VIEWING
Kuching, Sarawak. Tours Sdn Bhd
Tell (082) 243-708. Rainfield Court Shop- Nomad Adventure
www.cphtravel.com.my WWF (Worldwide
houses, Kota Kinabalu, 4.06B, 4th Floor,
Sabah. Tell (088) 702-188. The Summit Subang Fund for Nature)
Exotic Adventure
www.sunilandtravel. USJ, Persiaran Kewajipan, 49 Jalan SS23/15 Taman
Segama Complex,
com.my USJ 1, Subang Jaya, Sea, Petaling Jaya,
Kota Kinabalu, Sabah.
Tell (088) 253-493. Utan Bara Selangor. Selangor.
www.exotic-adventure. Adventure Team Tel (603) 8024-5152. Tel (03) 7803-3772.
com The Heritage Unit, www.nomadadventure.
www.wwfmalaysia.org
Kuala Lumpur. com
S.I. Tours Suite 16 W11 6th Floor,
Tel (03) 4022-5142.
Wisma Khoo, Siak Chiew, RIVER CRUISES CPS Tower, Center Point
www.ubat.com.my
Sandakan, Sabah. Complex No. 1, Jalan
Tell (089) 673-502. Borneo Eco Tours
CAVI
A NG Center Point, Kota
www.sitoursborneo.com Pusat Perindustrian
Kolonbong Jaya, Kinabalu, Sabah.
Malaysian Nature
BOOKINGS AND Society Caving Kota Kinabalu. Tel (088) 262-420.
PERMITS FOR Group Tel (088) 438-300. www.wwfmalaysia.org
NATIONAL PARKS 641 JKR Jalan Kelantan, www.borneoecotours.
Bukit Persekutuan, com BIRD-WATCHING
Johor State Kuala Lumpur. Map 3 A4.
Economic Unit Tel (03) 2287-9422.
S.I. Tours Borneo Mainland
Bangunan Sultan Ibrahim Lot 10021003,
www.mns.org.my Travel and Tours
Johor Bahru,Johor. Wisma Khoo Siak
1081, 1st Floor,
Tel (07) 223-7471. DIVING AND Chiew, Sandakan,
Sabah. Jalan Merpati, Miri,
National Parks SNORKELING
Tel (089) 673-502. Sarawak.
Booking Office Borneo Divers and www.sitoursborneo.com Tel (085) 433-511.
Sarawak Tourism Complex, Sea Sports www.borneo
Kuching, Sarawak. Tel (088) 268-339. GOLF
Tel (082) 410-944/42. mainland.com
www.borneodivers.info
www.sarawaktourism. Cameron Highlands Kingfisher Tours
com Borneo Sea Golf Club
Adventure P.O. Box 66, 39007
Suite 1107, 11th Floor,
Lot 452, Jalan Melayu,
1st floor, No. 8A Bangunan Yayasan,
Miri, Sarawak. Tanah Rata, Cameron
Karamunsing Warehouse, Selangor Jalan Bukit
Tel (085) 434-181. Highlands, Pahang.
Kota Kinabalu, Sabah.
www.sarawaktourism. Tel (05) 491-1126. Bintang, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel (088) 230-000.
com www.pahangtourism. Tel (03) 2142-1454.
www.borneosea.com
com.my
TREKKING Pulau Sipadan Malaysian Nature
Resort and Tours Mines Resort Golf Society Birding
Borneo Adventures 1st floor, No. 484, and Country Club
Group
Gaya Center, Jalan Tun Block P, Bandar Sabindo, The Mines Resort City,
641 JKR Jalan Kelantan,
Fuad Stephens, Kota Tawau, Sabah. Selangor Darul Ehsan.
Tel (03) 943-2288. Bukit Persekutuan,
Kinabalu, Sabah. Tel (089) 765-200.
Tel (088) 238-731. www.sipadan-resort.com www.mines.com.my Kuala Lumpur.
www.borneoadventure. Map 3 A4.
North Borneo Tours
com WATERSPORTS Tel (03) 2287-9422.
and Travel Sdn Bhd
Department of Lot E 31, Block E, www.mns.org.my
Sea Quest Tours
Wildlife and and Travel 3rd Floor, Plaza Tanjung
Wild Asia
National Parks 1 Sutera Harbour Aru, Jalan Mat Salleh,
Upper Penthouse, No. 2
Jalan Charas, Boulevard, Kota Kota Kinabalu.
Kuala Lumpur. Kinabalu, Sabah. Tel (088) 268-339. Jalan Raja Abdullah, Kuala
Tel (03) 9075-2872. Tel (088) 248-006. www.golfbookingcentre. Lumpur. Map 1 C5.
www.wildlife.gov.my www.seaquesttours.net com www.wildasia.net
SURVIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION 332341

TRAVEL INFORMATION 342351
332 S U R V I VA L G U I D E
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
M alaysia is one of
Asias top tourist
destinations,
a ppealing to package
tourists and independent
people are generally
friendly in Singapore,
Malaysia, and Brunei.
Singapore is an excep-
tionally safe country,
Official logo of
travelers alike. The government Tourism Malaysia largely free of violent crime,
of Malaysia, long aware of the dirt, and most tropical diseases.
countrys potential as a tropical The Malaysian government is especially
paradise, has been promoting tourism keen to demonstrate how the country
for decades. Visitors will find that the has developed into a well-integrated
tour operators are notably efficient, and sophisticated modern society,
hotels are well maintained, traveling offering all the conveniences that
around is usually smooth, and local visitors are used to at home.
VISAS AND PASS

P PORTS available from the Residents
office in the relevant areas.
Visitors need a passport that Brunei issues visas on
is valid for at least six months arrival to citizens of the UK,
from the date of arrival. A visa USA, Australia, Canada, and
can be obtained overseas at New Zealand. The initial stamp
Malaysian embassies, though is valid for between two weeks
many nationalities are granted and three months, and can be
one on arrival. Citizens of extended by applying to the
some European, African, Immigration Department in
South American, and ASEAN Bandar Seri Begawan, the
countries can stay in Malaysia capital of Brunei. Citizens of
for a month without a visa. most other nationalities are
Citizens of the UK, USA, New given 72-hour transit visas.
Zealand, Australia, Canada, Singapore stamps in citizens
and Ireland are automatically from the UK, USA, Australia,
issued 3-month tourist visas New Zealand, and Canada for
on arrival which can be an initial two weeks, although
A percussionist at the Rainforest extended for another three visitors can request a month.
World Music Festival (see p159) months by applying to the
Immigration Department. The CUSTOMS INFORMATION
WHEN TO GO Malaysian Foreign Office
website has further details. Duty-free limits are 50 cigars,
Malaysia, Singapore, and Although an integral part of 200 cigarettes, or 250g of
Brunei fall entirely within the Malaysia, Sarawak has its own tobacco, as well as a liter
tropics, so all three countries immigration system, and offi- of both wine and spirits in
have a hot and humid climate cials stamp all passports grant- Malaysia. Duty is payable
all year round, with temper- ing a months stay. A special on all tobacco in Singapore.
atures hovering around 30 C permit required to travel in Visitors who are carrying
(86 F) and rarely dipping some remote parts of Sabah over US$2,500 need to fill a
below 20 C (68 F). Visitors and Sarawak is generally Declaration Form on arrival.
keen to lounge on a beach or
participate in adventure sports
should avoid the monsoons.
The rainy season affects the
west coast of the peninsula
between May and September.
On the east coast and in
Malaysian Borneo, the mon-
soon falls between November
and February. It is worth tim-
ing a visit to coincide with one
of the countrys major festi-
vals, such as the Merdeka Eve
celebration (see p60) or the
Rainforest World Music Festival
((see p159
9). Chinese and Hindu
festivals in Singapore take
place in January and February. Visitors Center at Suntec City Mall, Singapore
Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) train in a station in Singapore

P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 333
Visitors watching orangutans at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center (see p190)
Possession of illegal drugs Muslim states, such as Kedah, and 13 hours ahead of Eastern
can result in a prison term or Terrangganu, and Kelantan, Standard Time (EST) in the
the death penalty in Malaysia, offices are closed on Friday. USA. However, Malaysia does
Singapore, and Brunei. Post offices are generally not have daylight saving time,
open between 8am to 6pm, and visitors should note that
VISITOR INFORMATION from Monday and Saturday. these differences will change
In Singapore, government when countries observing
Anyone considering a visit offices remain open between daylight saving time move
to Malaysia, Singapore, and 8:30am and 5pm, Monday to their clocks forward.
Brunei will find useful infor- Friday. In Brunei, government
mation on the official offices are open between LUNAR CALENDAR
websites of Tourism Malaysia, 7:45am and 4:30pm and
the Singapore Tourism Board, remain closed on Friday and Malaysia and Singapore use
and Tourism Brunei. Sunday. For details the Gregorian (Western)
The websites pro- on the opening calendar for administrative
vide details of hours of banks see purposes, but many of their
festivals, hotels, pp34041, and for festivals, particularly Islamic
and resorts. The shops see pp3145. or Chinese, are celebrated
tourist boards, according to the lunar calen-
aided by their effi- ADMISSION dar. This means they fall on a
cient network of CHARGES different day each year. The
domestic and main difference between the
overseas offices, Most museums Chinese and Islamic lunar
offer a wide range charge a nominal calendars is that the former
of pamphlets on entry fee both in uses an intercalary month,
the most attractive Guide of Singapore Malaysia and in so that festivals occur mostly
tourist destinations. Tourism Board Singapore. Most at the same time each year,
For information on national parks while Islamic festivals occur
Malaysian Borneo, both the charge RRM10, except Kinabalu about 10 days earlier each
Sabah Tourism Board and the National Park, where the fee year. Most festivals are plan-
Sarawak Tourism Board have is RM15.
R Some of the more ned to coincide with the night
detailed websites. Most hotels developed attractions charge of the full moon. To find exact
operate a tour service or can a higher entry fee, including dates of any festival, it is best
make arrangements for guests the Sepilok Orangutan to check the tourist board web-
while backpackers lodges are Rehabilitation Center (RM30) R site of the country concerned.
generally excellent sources and Sarawak Cultural Village
of local information. (RM25).
R Night safaris tend to ELECTRICITY
be expensive. Both countries
OPENING HOURS have lower rates for children. The electrical current in the
region is 220240 volts at 50
Government offices in Malaysia LOCAL TIME hertz. Equipment using 110
are open between 7:30am and volts requires a converter.
5:30pm, Monday to Friday. Malaysia, Singapore, and Adaptors are cheap and
Museums keep similar hours, Brunei are eight hours ahead available in most big towns.
though it is worth checking of Greenwich Mean Time Most wall sockets accommo-
specific locations for details. (GMT), 16 hours ahead of US date three-pronged square
In Malaysias more devout Pacific Standard Time (PST) pin plugs as used in the UK.
Brunei, which are hot and

humid year-round. Hats and
sunglasses are also advisable.
A sweater and windproof
jacket are recommended for
those visiting hill stations. As
there is some rainfall through-
out the year in Malaysia, a
raincoat is handy. It is also
important to carry a few long-
sleeved shirts and pairs of
trousers or full-length dresses,
Family boat ride on Sungai Santubong not just as protection from
the sun, but also for visits to
TRAVELING WITH banks, cinemas, and shopping conservative rural areas and
CHILDREN centers in Singapore provide religious venues as well as
ramps and other amenities for visits to smart restaurants and
Many Asians are fond of those with special needs, but hotels. As a rule, especially in
children, and parents traveling these are less common in Malaysia and Brunei, it is best
with children will often be Malaysia. Facilities are slowly to dress modestly at all times.
surprised and delighted to improving, but only at high- Since laundry services are
find that their children are end hotels. Public transport available in most hotels and
usually treated with affection lacks wheelchair accessibility, guesthouses and cheap cloth-
and care almost everywhere and towns have high kerbs ing, such as T-shirts and batik
in Malaysia, Singapore, and and uneven pavements. Access shirts, can be bought every-
Brunei. An example of this is Singaporee is a free guide that where, it is best to travel light.
in restaurants, where the staff gives a list of amenities.
are often helpful, and willing Travel websites for the dis- PHOTOGRAPHY
to occupy children while par- abled, such as Global Access
ents have their meal. Malaysia News, also offer guidance. Natural beauty, teeming
is particularly child-friendly, wildlife, and stunning archi-
with lots of places to visit that GAY AND LESBIAN tecture ensure that most places
interest people of all ages. TRAVELERS in Malaysia, Singapore, and
Childcare products are avail- Brunei are extremely photo-
able throughout the region Officially, neither Malaysia genic. People are generally
except in rural areas and nor Singapore welcomes gay quite happy to have their
remote destinations. Childrens and lesbian travelers, and picture taken, but to avoid
health, however, requires delivers strict punishment for unpleasantness it is always
protection, especially against homosexual acts. Never- best to request their permis-
exposure to heat, and food- theless, a number of bars and sion first, especially while
and water-related ailments. clubs in Singapore and Kuala visiting the indigenous people.
Lumpur bolster a thriving gay Similarly, it is advisable to ask
WOMEN TRAVELERS scene. For more information a priest or imam at all temples
on gay and lesbian issues and and mosques before taking
Malaysia, Singapore, and events across Asia consult pictures there.
Brunei are reasonably safe for the website Utopia. Photo shops in Malaysias
women traveling alone. It is big cities and in Singapore are
important to bear in mind, WHAT
A TO WEAR well-stocked with equipment,
though, that due to the conser- memory cards, and print film;
vative nature of Malaysian cul- Light, casual clothes in cotton prices are cheaper than in the
ture, unaccompanied Western and other natural fibers are West. Professional slide film is
women may attract attention, ideal for the tropical climate only available in big cities, and
particularly in rural districts of Malaysia, Singapore, and even then it might be better to
and Muslim areas. Women
travelers are unlikely to be
harassed if they are consider-
ate of local customs, wear mod-
est clothing, and avoid taking
risks such as hitchhiking and
walking alone at night.
DISABLED TRAVELERS
Singapore provides the best

facilities for the disabled,
while Malaysia unfortunately
offers little in the way of
assistance. Many hotels, Stalls selling clothes and other wares at Jalan Petaling market
DIRECTORY
EMBASSIES
Australia
Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) 2146-
5555. www.australia.org.my
Singapore. Tel 6836-4100.
www.australia.org.sg
Canada
3333. www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca
www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca
New Zealand
2533. www.nzembassy.com
www.nzembassy.com
Arm wrestling between a tourist and a local UK
carry your own, as it tends to covered, when visiting rural 2200. www.britain.org.my
be improperly stored. It is areas, temples, mosques, and
worth using photographic ser-r other religious places, as well
www.britain.org.sg
vices, such as film processing, as in Muslim areas or homes.
before heading home. It is Non-Muslim women may be USA
also easy and cheap to get forbidden to enter mosques Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) 2168-
images on a memory card in some places. 5000. http://malaysia.
transferred onto a DVD and to usembassy.gov
get prints from digital images. LANGUAGE Singapore. Tel 6476-9100.
http://singapore.usembassy.gov
SOCIAL CUSTOMS Bahasa Malaysia, which means
Malay language, is the official VISAS AND P
PASSPORTS
The majority of the Malaysian language of Malaysia and
population is conservative, but Brunei. In Singapore, English Foreign Office
visitors will find most social and Mandarin are widely spo- www.kln.gov.my
customs flexible and generally ken, though visitors may also
easy to comply with. Loud hear Tamil, Cantonese, Hindi, VISITOR INFORMAT
A ION
behavior is considered rude. or any number of indigenous
As a rule, do not point at languages that are still used by Sabah Tourism Board
people or objects using the the multi-ethnic population. www.sabahtourism.com
index finger; instead indicate Visitors who learn even a few
V Sarawak Tourism Board
with the thumb or the whole Malay phrases will endear www.sarawaktourism.com
hand. Although men shake themselves to their hosts.
hands, wait for a hand to be Singapore Tourism Board
offered. Also note that in CONVERSION CHART www.visitsingapore.com
Muslim company it is impolite
Tourism Brunei
to touch people with the left Malaysia, Singapore, and
www.tourismbrunei.com
hand or on the head. Public Brunei use the metric system
displays of affection such as for weights and measures. Tourism Malaysia
hugging and kissing are also Imperial to Metric www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my
frowned upon. Topless sun- 1 inch = 2.5 centimeters
bathing and nudity on 1 foot = 30 centimeters DISABLED TRAVELERS
beaches are taboo. 1 mile = 1.6 kilometers
Before entering a Malaysian 1 ounce = 28 grams Access Singapore
home, visitors should take 1 pound = 454 grams www.dpa.org.sg/access/
their shoes off. Never help 1 US pint = 0.473 liter contents.htm
yourself to food without it 1 US quart = 0.947 liter Global Access News
being offered first and avoid 1 US gallon = 3.6 liters www.globalaccessnews.com
eating with the left hand. Metric to Imperial
While most big cities have a 1 centimeter = 0.4 inch GAY AND LESBIAN
modern outlook in terms of 1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches TRAVELERS
fashion, Muslim women still 1 kilometer = 0.6 mile
dress conservatively. Care 1 gram = 0.04 ounce Utopia
must be taken to dress 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds www.utopia-asia.com
modestly, with arms and legs 1 liter = 2.1 US pints
Personal Security and Health NARCOTICS
Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei are all Malaysia and Singapore are
relatively safe to travel in as crime rates two of the strictest countries
are low. However, the same common- in the world when it comes
sense safety rules apply here as anywhere to penalties for possessing
or smuggling narcotics, and
else and visitors need to be vigilant in big anyone caught carrying them
Tourist police
cities where pickpockets and bag-snatch- can expect either a long time
logo ers may operate. Avoid wearing expensive in prison or possibly the
jewelry. There are no particular health death sentence. Brunei, too,
dangers in these countries as the health and hygiene carries the death penalty for
standards are among the highest in Asia. However, drug trafficking.
while hospitals in major cities are well equipped
there are limited medical facilities in rural areas. HEALTH PRECAUTIONS
Standards of health and

hygiene are high in both
Malaysia and Singapore, so
visitors have little to fear. No
inoculations are necessary,
unless you have recently visit-
ed countries where yellow
fever is prevalent. If so, you
will be required to show
proof of vaccination to immi-
gration authorities on arrival.
Most areas of Malaysia have
no risk of malaria. However,
Singapore policeman and a patrol car if visiting remote areas, it is
advisable to begin a course
POLICE money and passports in a of malaria tablets at least two
money belt beneath clothing weeks before traveling. Since
Most visitors never have to prevent the risk of pick- these tablets are only partially
cause for dealings with the pocketing. Valuables such as effective, it is also advisable
police, unless reporting a cameras and mobile phones to use insect repellent and
theft or loss. In Malaysia, should be hidden from view. ensure that sleeping areas
areas with large numbers of Avoid walking along dimly-lit are equipped with mosquito
tourists are also patrolled by streets after dark or leaving screens on the doors and
special tourist police who purses unattended. It is a windows or mosquito nets
offer extra protection. good idea to photocopy travel over the beds.
Singapore has strict laws insurance papers, passport, The most common problem
that prohibit smoking in and documents, in case of for travelers is diarrhea and
public places, littering, and theft or loss. stomach upsets caused by a
even chewing gum, for change in diet, water, and
which steep fines ran T AND STOLEN climate. To reduce the risk of
from S$501,000 are PERTY diarrhea, drink only bottled
imposed. The police or boiled water, avoid ice in
here are particularly you are robbed, drinks and raw food, and eat
vigilant. Although eport the theft only in clean places.
sometimes tourists immediately to the For people from temperate
may be let off with local police station. climates, the greatest danger
a warning for these A police report will of traveling to the tropics is
offences, it is best to be necessary to make the heat, which can easily
respect local laws. an insurance claim cause dehydration and sun-
later. Lost or stolen burn. Drink plenty of water,
GENERAL credit cards and stay in the shade, and protect
PRECAUTIONS travelers checks yourself from direct sunlight
st be reported to the with a hat, sunscreen, and
While traveling in the ing bank to prevent sunglasses. The tropical cli-
region is relatively saf drawals and cards mate can also play havoc with
some basic precaution t be cancelled there- open cuts and burns, so treat
should be followed. for replacements. them immediately. Bring a
Avoid carrying large passport is lost or well-stocked medical kit,
sums of money or len, contact your which should include per-
wearing expensive mbassy or consulate sonal medication, painkillers,
jewelry; leave them in Tourist police in order to obtain a antiseptic, antibiotics, anti-
your hotel safe. Keep in Malaysia replacement (see p335). diarrhea tablets, and insect
difficult to find in rural areas. Directory

Brunei has adequate health
care facilities but serious EMERGENCIES
health problems are better
treated in Singapore, which Ambulance and Fire
has world-class medical facil- (Nationwide)
ities. Major hospitals here Malaysia Tel 994.
include Raffles Hospital and Singapore Tel 995.
Singapore General. Brunei Tell 238-0402.
Police (Nationwide)
PHARMACIES Malaysia Tel 999.
Singapore Tel 999.
Even the smallest towns in Brunei Tel 242-3901.
A private hospital in Singapore, a Malaysia have well-stocked
country with superb health care pharmacies. The Guardian HEALTH PRECAUTIONS
Pharmacy has a large number
sting relief to help tackle most of outlets in Malaysia. The World Health
minor problems. However, well-known pharmacies in Organization
if a problem persists, seek Singapore include Changi www.who.int/ith
medical advice immediately. General Hospital Pharmacy
Malaysia Medical
and AM Pharmacy. Medication
Association
HOSPITA
T LS AND may be bought over the
www.mma.org.my
MEDICAL TREATM
A ENT counter in Malaysia without a
doctors prescription, but that
HOSPITA
T LS AND
All large towns in Malaysia is not possible in Singapore.
MEDICAL TREATM
A ENT
have a district hospital as well When traveling, carry a good
as private clinics. Most are supply of your prescription Gleneagles Medical
clean and all doctors speak medicines from home. Center
some English. These hospitals 282 Jalan Ampang,
also have an emergency depart- TRAVEL AND HEALTH Kuala Lumpur.
ment, where foreigners are INSURANCE Tel (03) 4257-1300.
usually given priority. Clinics
catering specifically for expa- It is best to take out travel Pantai Medical Center
triates and tourists are usually insurance before traveling to Jalan Bukit Pantai,
more expensive than local the region. Ensure that it cov- Kuala Lumpur.
facilities. However, while ers you for injury, sickness, Tel (03) 2282-5077.
amenities in the major cities accident, emergency hospital Raffles Hospital
are well developed, with treatment, and repatriation as 585 North Bridge Road,
hospitals in Kuala Lumpur well as medical assistance.
Singapore.
such as Gleaneagles Medical You will need extra coverage
Map 3 E4.
Center and Pantai Medical if you participate in high-risk
Tel 6311-1555.
Center being among the best, activities such as diving or
reliable medical care can be mountain climbing. Singapore General
Outram Road.
Map 4 A3.
Tel 6222-3322.
PHARMACIES
AM Pharmacy
150 Orchard Road, 0406
Orchard Plaza, Singapore.
Map 1 F2.
Tel 6737-4760.
Changi General
Hospital Pharmacy
2 Simei Street 3,
Singapore.
Tel 6788-8833.
www.mypharmacy.com.sg
Guardian Pharmacy
Lot 89 & 91, Jalan Bukit
Bintang, Kuala Lumpur.
Map 6 D2.
Tel (03) 2145-7553.
www.guardian.com.my
Fire engine in Malaysia
Banking and Currency at major banks, and many

hotels and shops will also
Banks are generally easy to find in Malaysia, Singapore, accept them as cash on
and Brunei. Commercial and merchant banks freely presentation of a passport.
allow non-residents to open foreign currency accounts Lost or stolen travelers
without too many restrictions on the movement of checks and credit cards must
funds through these accounts. Visitors can bring any be reported to the issuer.
amount of foreign currency into or out of Malaysia or CURRENCY
Singapore, although it must be declared at customs.
However, there is a limit of R
RM1,000 on the amount The Malaysian unit of currency
of ringgit allowed into or out of Malaysia. is the ringgit,
t denoted by RM R
before the price of an item.
Locals often refer to it, rather
confusingly, as dollars. It is
further divided into 100 sen
although tourists are unlikely
to need these small denomi-
nation coins unless shopping
in a local market. In Singapore,
the unit of currency is the
Singapore dollar, written S$,
which is made up of 100 cents.
The Brunei dollar is at par
with the Singapore dollar and
is legal tender in Singapore.
DIRECTORY
Citibank, one of the many international banks in Singapore
BANKS
BANKS rates are usually less favorable
than at banks. Licensed money- Citibank
Maybank is Malaysias largest changers generally stay open Menara Citibank, 165 Jalan
bank. International banks, until 6pm and often offer the Ampang, Kuala Lumpur.
such as Citibank, are also best rates. Exchange facilities Tell (03) 2380-1111.
established in all three coun- can be difficult to find in www.citibank.com.my
tries. Malaysian banking hours remote areas, especially in
are from 9:30am to 4pm from Sarawak and Sabah, so carry 40A Orchard Road 01-00,
Monday to Friday and 9:30 adequate cash at all times. Singapore. Map 1 F2. Tel 6225-
to 11:30am on Saturday. In 5225. www.citibank.com.sg
the Muslim states of Kedah, ATMS
Terengganu, and Kelantan, Maybank
however, the banks are open Automatic teller machines 3rd Floor (West Wing), 100 Jalan
from 9:30am to 4pm from (ATMs) are becoming ubiq-
(A Tun Perak, Kuala Lumpur.
Saturday to Wednesday, uitous in Malaysia, except in Map 4 E1. Tel (03) 2074-7266.
and from 9:30 to 11am on isolated areas, and have long www.maybank.com.my
Thursday; they remain closed been so in Singapore. ATMs
A
3 Battery Road, Singapore.
on Friday. Banks in Singapore only issue the currency of the
are open from 9:30am to respective country, and there Map 5 E3. Tel 6550-7158.
3pm from Monday to Friday, is a daily withdrawal limit of www.maybank.com.sg
and from 9:30 to 11:30am around US$800. A fee is
on Saturday. levied for each transaction, CREDIT CARDS AND
usually about US$3. TRAVELERS CHECKS
CHANGING MONEY
CREDIT CARDS AND American Express
Cash and travelers checks TRAVELERS CHECKS Malaysia Tell (03) 2050-0888.
can be exchanged at large Singapore Tel 6297-7666.
branches of all banks for a Major credit cards can be
small service fee. Most major used in most urban and MasterCard
currencies such as dollars and tourist areas, with VISA and Malaysia Tel 1-800 804594.
euros are easily exchangeable, MasterCard being the most Singapore Tel 6533-2888.
though outside the big cities, widely accepted. They can
it can be difficult to exchange also be used at AATMs for VISA
other currencies such as the withdrawals and at major Malaysia Tel 1-800 802997
Thai baht or the Indonesian banks for cash advances. (stolen cards).
rupiah. Top-end hotels will Travelers checks, commonly Singapore Tel 1-800 110-0344
also exchange dollars and issued by American Express (stolen cards).
some common currencies, but and VISA, can be exchanged
Malay Ringgit
Bank notes are issued in denomi-
nations of RM1, RM2, RM5, RM10,
RM50, and RM100. All notes bear
the image of Malaysias first prime
minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman.
RM1 coins are rare. The ringgit is
divided into 100 sen, available
l in
coins of 1, 5, 10, 20, and 50 sen.
1 ringgit
5 sen 10 sen N
E
M
E
50 sen
M
S
gg
gg
Singapore dollar
The Singapore dollar is made up of
100 cents, and coins are minted in
denominations of 1 (slowly being
phased out), 5, 10, 20, and 50
cents. S$1 coins are also circulated.
Singapore dollars are issued in notes
of S$1, S$2, S$5, S$10, S$20, S$50,
S$100, S$500, and S$1,000. There 2 dollars
is a S$10,000 note, but it is rare.
N
E
M 5 dollars
I
1 cent 5 cents
10 dollars
10 cents 20 cents
N
E
50 cents 1 Singapore dollar 100 dollars

Communications and Media messaging is cheap, and

many local network com-
The communications network in Malaysia, Singapore, panies offer a certain
and Brunei is fast and efficient, offering a variety of amount of free messages
local, national, and worldwide services. Local and inter- as promotions.
national calls can be made from public telephones in
INTERNET FACILITIES
all but the smallest of islands. Mobile phone facilities
and Internet access are particularly impressive, with The entire region has fully
networks that compete with the best in the West. The embraced the use of the
postal system is reliable and well organized. International Internet and cheap Internet
publications and several locally published English access is available even in
newspapers and magazines are available in big cities. remote locations. Internet
cafs in Malaysia charge by
the hour and most places
Most big hotels in the region offer broadband connections.
also have IDD facilities, but Rates in Singapore are com-
this service is extremely expen- parable, and broadband is
sive. Faxes can be sent from even more widespread.
telecom offices in major cities Bigger hotels often have
and hotels. Internet access in rooms or
Malaysian phone numbers in a business center, but this
generally consist of six or is usually more expensive
seven digits, except in Kuala than the Internet cafs. Many
Lumpur which has eight-digit backpacker lodges offer free
phone numbers. All numbers Internet access to their guests.
are preceded by a two- or For those traveling with
three-digit area code. Phone laptops, Wi-Fi (wireless
numbers all across Singapore Internet connection) facilities
consist of eight digits and are highly advanced in
there is no area code within Singapore, but uncommon
the country. outside Kuala Lumpur in
Conveniently located public Malaysia. Note that wall
telephone booths in Malaysia CELL PHONES sockets accommodate three-
pronged, square-pin plugs,
INTERNATIONAL AND Generally, cell phone network and adaptors are easily
LOCAL PHONE CALLS coverage is good in Malaysia, available in most big towns.
except in the remote regions
Public telephones can be of Sarawak and Sabah where POSTAL SERVICES
found all over Singapore, some networks work better
Malaysia, and Brunei. They than others. There is complete Post offices are found all over
are both phonecard- and coverage across Singapore. Malaysia and Singapore, and
coin-operated, and most also Cell phones with international are generally very efficient.
accept credit cards. Telekom
T roaming service will auto- Each Malaysian town has a
Malaysia is a national operator matically tune into one of General Post Office (GPO)
T is Singapores
while SingTel the local networks, but this with poste restante, as do
main telephone company. service is very expensive. It the GPOs in Singapore and
Local calls in Malaysia cost 10 is best to buy a local prepaid Brunei. In Malaysia, post
sen for unlimited time, and SIM card, such as Maxis and offices are open from 8am
10 cents for three minutes in Celcom in Malaysia, or SingTel 5pm Monday to Friday, and
Singapore. Public telephones and M1 in Singapore; these some Saturdays, though in the
in all three countries offer are all widely available. Text states of Kedah, Terengganu,
international direct dialing
(IDD), and it is best to use a
phonecard for these calls.
Phonecards of several com-
panies are available at petrol
stations and convenience
stores, such as 7-Eleven, in
denominations of between
RM5 and R
R RM50 in Malaysia,
S$2 and S$50 in Singapore,
and B$10 and B$100 in
Brunei. Collect calls from
Malaysia can only be made
from a Telekom Malaysia
office, which can also be used
for regular long-distance calls. A well-equipped Internet caf in Malaysia
and Kelantan they close on DIRECTORY

Friday instead of Sunday. The
opening hours in Singapore CELL PHONES
are from 8am to 6pm Monday
to Friday, and from 8am to Celcom
2pm on Saturday. Brunei post www.celcom.com.my
offices open from 7:45am to
M1
4:30pm Monday to Thursday
and Saturday, and from 8 to www.m1.com.sg
11am and 2 to 4pm on Friday. Maxis
Letters and parcels posted www.maxis.com.my
from Malaysian towns usually
take a week to reach overseas SingTel
T
destinations. Anything posted www.singtel.com
from remote places in Sabah
and Sarawak may take a few The colorful Virtual Malaysia, Telekom Malaysia
T
weeks to reach its destination. packed with useful information www.tm.com.my
Postcards and aerograms cost
50 sen from Malaysia, and 50 Malaysia, such as Kuala POSTAL SERVICES
cents from Singapore for the Lumpur. These include maga-
same service. Postcards from zines such as Newsweek and DHL
Brunei to any destination cost Timee and newspapers such as Malaysia Tel (03) 7964-2800.
30 cents. Most major post the International Herald Singapore Tel 6880-6060.
offices in the region have fax Tribune. Both countries have www.dhl.com
facilities too. Several well- local newspapers in English,
known international courier though government censor- Federal Express
services such as DHL, Federal ship is strict, and dissenting Malaysia Tel (03) 2179-0370.
Express, and United Parcel views are rarely published. Singapore Tel 1 800 743 2626.
Service (UPS) operate in both The leading English daily in
www.fedex.com
Malaysia and Singapore as do Malaysia is The Star, besides
local courier companies such The New Straits Times, Sun, Malaysian Postal Service
as Nationwide Express. and The Malay Mail. These www.pos.com.my
are all good sources of infor-
TELEVISION AND RADIO mation for upcoming events. Nationwide Express
In Sabah and Sarawak, the Malaysia Tel (03) 5512-7000.
Both Malaysia and Singapore leading newspapers are New Singapore Tel 6285-4223.
have a huge selection of Sabah Timess and the Sarawak
satellite television channels. Tribune. Malaysia also pub- Singapore Post
Terrestrial TVV stations are lishes some English maga- www.singpost.com.sg
closely monitored for signs zines, including Virtual
of criticism of the respective Malaysia. Singapores main United Parcel Service
governments. RTM1 and RTM2 R English papers are Straits Malaysia Tel (03) 7784-1233.
are Malaysias government-run Timess and New Paper, while Singapore Tel 6883-7000.
TVV stations, which broadcast Borneos main newspaper is www.ups.com/asia
uncontroversial programs in Borneo Bulletin.
Bahasa Malaysia. Commercial
stations such as NTV7 feature
English news, and interna- USEFUL DIALLING CODES
tional soaps and films. The country code for UK 44; New Zealand 64;
Six government-run radio Malaysia is 60; Singapore France 33.
stations air programs in var- 65; Brunei 673. Calls between Malaysia
ious languages including To call these countries and Singapore are
English. Singapores television from abroad, dial your considered long distance,
and radio channels offer a international access code, not international calls.
mixture of English, Tamil, the country code, the area For interstate calls in
Chinese, and Malay programs. code minus the first 0 Malaysia dial the area
Brunei has one TV V channel (except Singapore), and code followed by the
with many imported programs the number. number. For calls within a
and two radio channels. For international calls from state, omit the area code.
Malaysia dial 00, from For directory enquiries in
NEWSPA
P PERS AND Singapore dial 001, and Malaysia and Singapore,
MAGAZINES from Brunei 01, followed dial 103; in Brunei, dial
by the country code, the 0213.
A wide range of international area code minus the first 0, For the international
publications is available in and the local number. operator in Malaysia,
most major hotels, book- Country codes: USA A and dial 108; in Singapore,
stores, and newsstands in Canada 1; AAustralia 61; dial 104.
Singapore, and big cities in
TRAVEL INFORMATION
M ost overseas visitors to
Malaysia and Singapore
arrive at Kuala Lumpur
International Airport (KLIA) and
Changi Airport, respectively. Many
Tiger Airways in Singapore and
AirA
r sia in Malaysia, to make short
hops within Southeast Asia from
places like Bangkok and Hong
Kong. Traveling by rail can be fun,
visitors prefer to arrive overland Singapores with comfortable sleeper com-
MRT logo
taking a train or a bus from partments for long journeys,
Thailand, and a few opt for cruise ships. though the network is limited to a cou-
Although most towns in Malaysia are ple of lines. Both Singapore and Kuala
well-connected by domestic flights and Lumpur have good public transport
buses, remote areas in Sarawak and services, such as the Light Rail Transit
Sabah suffer from poor road conditions. (LRT) and the Mass Rapid Transport
These days, increasing numbers of tour- System (MRT), that make life easy for
ists opt for low-cost carriers, such as first-time visitors to these cities.
seasonally. During the peak

months from July to August,
and December to January,
prices soar for flights from
the USA A and Europe.
With over 50 international
carriers using the main airports
there is stiff competition, and
it makes sense to compare
the rates of different airlines
before booking a flight. For
travelers already in Southeast
Asia, it is worth considering
Budget airline AirAsia at Kuala Lumpurs Low-Cost Carrier Terminal budget airlines such as Tiger
Airways and AirA r sia, which
ARRIVING BY AIR Lumpur and Singapore, offer fares comparable to
operated by both official those on buses and trains.
Over 50 international carriers airlines, leaving at half-
f hour The ticket price is usually
connect Singapore and intervals during peak hours. exclusive of an international
Malaysia to most continents. Many international airlines departure tax. It is best to
Some of the international car- use either KLIA or Changi book in advance and check
riers that operate out of the Airports as their gateways to with online booking services.
two countries are Air Canada, Southeast Asia, or as stopover
Cathay Pacific, China Airlines, points from Europe to New ARRIVING BY LAND
Emirates Airlines, Japan Zealand and Australia. Both
Airlines, Garuda Indonesia, airports are super-modern Traveling by train is a popular
British Airways, KLM, Qantas, and well equipped with all way for visitors from Thailand
Thai Airways, the facilities to enter Malaysia, crossing
and United that travelers the border at Padang Besar.
Airlines. might need, Passengers can change at
Low-cost such as shops, Butterworth for Penang or
carriers such Airport arrival hall sign restaurants, continue to Kuala Lumpurs
as AirAsia, and Internet Stesen Sentral or Singapore
Silk Air, Tiger Airways, and access. Passengers arriving at
Jetstar offer several options Changi Airport, 10 miles (16
for passengers flying in km) from central Singapore,
from other Southeast Asian have a choice of transport
countries. There are flights to reach the city, including
from Singapore to Langkawi MRT, limousine services,
by Silk Air and to Kuching by and airport shuttles.
Singapore Airlines as well.
Malaysia Airlines (MAS) and AIR FARES
Singapore Airlines, the
national carriers, are well- There is a wide range of
connected to most parts of tickets available for travel to
the world. There is a regular and around Singapore and Luxurious interior of the Eastern
service between Kuala Malaysia, but the prices vary & Oriental Express
T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 343
Train Station. The Eastern regularly between Singapore, ORGANIZED TOURS

& Oriental Express (E & O), Port Klang, Penang, Pulau
combining luxury with classic Langkawi, and even Phuket in The most economical way to
sightseeing, covers the route Thailand. A ferry link connects visit Malaysia and Singapore
from Bangkok to Singapore, Penang and Malacca on the is via an organized tour. A
passing through Kuala peninsula with Medan and package deal usually includes
Lumpurs Stesen Sentral. Dumai in Sumatra (Indonesia). flights, hotels, road transport,
The main route for buses There are regular longboat guides, and admission fee to
and taxis from Thailand is services between Pulau tourist sights for little more
via Bukit Kayu Hitam at the Langkawi and Satun in South than the cost of a flight. Tour
Malaysian border. A causeway Thailand. Ferries and small companies such as Borneo
connects Johor Bahru at the boats also connect Singapore Adventures (see p329) and
southern tip of Malaysia to to Tanjung Belungkor in the Thomson Worldwide offer
Singapore. From Pontianak state of Johor in Malaysia. exciting itineraries.
in Kalimantan (Indonesian
Borneo), it is possible to
enter Sarawak in Malaysian
Borneo. The main terminals
are Puduraya Bus Station
in Kuala Lumpur and the
Singapore Bus Station.
ARRIVING BY SEA
Both the countries can be

reached by sea. Malaysia
has several authorized entry
points. Some cruise liners,
such as Star Cruises, travel A cruise liner docked at Langkawi
DIRECTORY
AIRPORTS China Airlines Tel 6336-6777. ARRIVING BY LAND
Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) www.malaysiaairlines.
Changi Airport 2142-7344. Singapore. com E & O Express
Singapore. Tel 6542-1122. Tel 6737-2211. www.easternoriental
www.changiairport.com Qantas express.com
www.china-airlines.com
Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03)
Kuala Lumpur Emirates Airlines 6279-5033. Singapore. Puduraya Bus
International Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) Tel 6415-7373. Station
Airport (KLIA) 2072-5288. Singapore. www.qantas.com.au Kuala Lumpur.
Kuala Lumpur. Tel 6735-3535. Tel (03) 2070-0145.
Tell (03) 8776-4386. Silk Air
www.emirates.com Singapore Bus
www.klia.com.my Singapore. Tel 6223-
Garuda Indonesia 8888. www.silkair.com Station
ARRIVING BY AIR Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) Singapore.
Singapore Airlines Tel 1-800 2255-663.
2162-2811. Singapore.
AirAsia Kuala Lumpur. www.sbstransit.com.sg
Tel 6250-5888. www.
Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) 2692-3122.
garuda-indonesia.com Singapore Train
Tel (03) 8775-4000. Singapore.
Japan Airlines Tel 6223-8888. Station
www.airasia.com
Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) www.singaporeair.com Singapore. Tel 6221-3390.
Air Canada 2161-1722. Singapore.
Thai Airways Stesen Sentral
Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) Tel 6221-0522.
Kuala Lumpur. Tell (03) Kuala Lumpur.
2148-8596. Singapore.
Jetstar 2031-2900. Singapore. Tel (03) 2279-8888.
Tel 6256-1198.
www.aircanada.ca Singapore. Tel 6822- Tel 1-800 2249-977.
2288. www.jetstar.com www.thaiair.com ARRIVING BY SEA
British Airways
Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) KLM Tiger Airways Star Cruises
2167-6006/2167-6188. Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) Singapore. Malaysia.
Singapore. Tel 6622- 2711-9811. Singapore. Tel 6538-4437. Tel (03) 3103-1313.
1747. www. Tel 6737-7622. www.tigerairways.com www.starcruises.com
britishairways.com www.klm.com
United Airlines ORGANIZED TOURS
Cathay Pacific Malaysia Airlines Kuala Lumpur.
Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) (MAS) Tel (03) 2161-1433. Thomson
2078-3377. Singapore. Kuala Lumpur. Singapore. Worldwide
Tel 6533-1333. Tell (03) 7846-3000. Tel 6873-3533. www.thomsonworldwide.
www.cathaypacific.com Singapore. www.ual.com co.uk
Traveling by Air
Malaysia has a very good network of internal flights,
making air travel a comfortable and convenient way
of getting around. The national carrier, Malaysia Airlines
(MAS), is well-connected to almost all popular tourist
destinations. Singapore itself is too small to require inter-
nal flights. With the advent of budget airlines, such as
the hugely successful AirAsia, the much smaller Berjaya
Air, and the new Fly Asian Xpress (FAX), the cost of
flying has reduced considerably. Most big towns in
Malaysia now have an airport, and it is easy to get
tickets either through local travel agencies or by book-
ing online. Flights are generally punctual, efficient, and Passengers waiting to check in at
an airport counter
inexpensive, which is particularly useful for visitors
who want to see as much of the country as possible Kudat, Sandakan, Lahad Datu,
within a limited period of time. Tawau, as well as Semporna.
The larger airports in all
DOMESTIC AIRLINES DOMESTIC AIRPORTS these states are serviced
by both MAS and the fast
Until recently, Malaysia All Malaysian Airlines domestic expanding network of
Airlines (see p342) had a flights depart from the state- AirAsia. However, the smaller
virtual monopoly on all of-the-art Kuala Lumpur towns are connected in most
domestic flights throughout International Airport (KLIA) cases only by the services
Malaysia. The situation has 2 the largest and
(see p342), of FAX.
now changed with the arrival most well-connected airport
of AirAsia (see p342) and Fly in Malaysia. AirAsia operates FLIGHT NETWORK
Asian Xpress (FAX), both of out of its main base at the
which offer low-cost, no-frills Low-Cost Carrier (LCC), While most major Malaysian
flights with limited seating located 12 miles (20 km) from towns are linked by direct
space and payment for in- KLIA, to which it is connected flights, smaller towns also
flight refreshments. AirAsia by shuttle buses. Berjaya Air have connecting networks.
has now started to fly short- operates out of Sultan In Peninsular Malaysia, most
haul international routes bdul Aziz Shah Airport, flights originate in Kuala
while FAX has taken uala Lumpurs former Lumpur, flying to Pulau
over turbo-propeller nternational airport. Tioman, Pulau Redang, and
plane services in In Peninsular Pulau Pangkor. There are
Malaysian Borneo Malaysia, there are additional flights to Pulau
from Malaysia Airlines. Berjaya Air airports at Ipoh, Tioman from Selatar Airport
Berjaya Air offers a logo Penang, Kuala Lumpur, in Singapore. Johor Bahru
few flights from Kuala Alor Setar, Langkawi, provides services to Penang,
Lumpur and Singapore to Kota Bharu, Kuantan, Kuala Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur, Kota
some of the offshore islands, Terengganu, and Johor Bahru. Bahru, Kuching, Sibu, Miri,
but prices are quite steep. Airports in Sarawak include Kota Kinabalu, Sandakan,
Berjaya Air also claims that Kuching, Sibu, Mukah, Miri, and Tawau.
its Dash 7 aircraft is the big- Bintulu, Belaga, Lawas, Mulu, In Malaysian Borneo, while
gest commercial aircraft to fly Ba Kalalan, Long Akah, Long the majority of flights origi-
to the Tioman and Pangkor Banga, Long Lellang, Long nate in the provincial capitals
islands. Fares and availability Seridan, Bario, and Limbang. of Kota Kinabalu and
can be checked and tickets In Sabah, there are airports Kuching, it is also possible
booked online. at Kota Kinabalu, Labuan, to make short hops without
returning to the original point
using the rural air services.
Several 19-seater and 50-
seater planes help maintain
communications with the
remote provinces. A visitor
in Sarawak can therefore go
from Kuching to Mulu via
Sibu and Miri, or from Kota
Kinabalu to Semporna via
Sandakan in Sabah. There
are also regular direct flights
between both Miri and Mulu
in Sarawak and Kota Kinabalu
A Fokker 50 turboprop, used for short-haul domestic flights, at Mulu in Sabah.
TICKETS AND region from Europe or USA. TRAVEL

A AGENCIES
RESERVA
VATIONS Also, by the time tax and fuel
surcharges are added, flights Both countries have travel
Tickets for flights on any are no longer as cheap as agents who assist visitors with
of the airlines listed in the they first appear. Potential travel arrangements, hotel
directory can be purchased travelers need to weigh care- bookings, and guided tours.
from travel agents, although fully the pros and cons of Asian Overland Services, Crest
these days it is easier to book traveling with different car- Travel and Tours
T T , Discovery
online with a credit card. All riers. It is also worth checking Tours and Travel
T T , East West
airlines permit online booking promotions and offers from Executive Travellers
T , Excellence
through their websites and MAS and Singapore Airlines Holidays, Ezz Travel
T , J3 Travel
T ,
e-tickets are becoming more before making any reserva- Honeyworld Holidays, Planet
common. While there is usu- tions. Passengers arriving by T
Travel , Jetliner Travel
T , Kennex
ally some flexibility about international flights can also T
Travel , Malaysia Tourism
T , STA
T
changing dates for reservar - get a Discover Malaysia pass T
Travel, Skyzone TTours and
tions with major carriers such issued by MAS, which entitles T
Travel, Transtar
T T
Travel , Pedati
as MAS and Singapore them to five domestic flights Saujana Holidays, Star Holiday
Airlines, budget airlines do for just US$199. Groups of Mart, TDK T Travel and Tours
T ,
not allow rescheduling. three or four passengers can and TVI Holidays offer
Changing the date of the get a 50 percent discount planned holidays.
flight after making a booking from MAS, applicable on trips
with a budget airline requires between the peninsula and
payment of a penalty. Malaysian Borneo and also
between Sabah and Sarawak.
FARES AND SPECIAL For other routes in Malaysia a
DISCOUNTS 25 percent discount is applic-
able. The Singapore Stopover
With the introduction of Holiday offered by Singapore
budget airlines in Southeast Airlines includes free bus
Asia, travelers have a wide rides and admission to several
range of travel options. tourist attractions as well as
However, there are no low- special hotel rates and dis- Travel agency signboards lining a
T
cost long-haul carriers to the counts at shopping outlets. street in Little India, Georgetown
DIRECTORY
DOMESTIC East West Executive Kennex Travel
T Star Holiday Mart
AIRLINES T
Travellers Menara Pan Global, 29/30 Duxton Road,
Suntec Tower 5, Lorong P. Ramlee,
Berjaya Air Singapore.
Singapore. Tel 6238- Kuala Lumpur.
Kuala Lumpur. Tel 6735-9009.
8488. www.ewet.com Tel (03) 2031-8810.
Tel (03) 7846-8228.
www.kennextravel.com www.starmart.com.sg
www.berjaya-air.com Excellence Holidays
Wisma Excellence, Kuala Malaysia Tourism
T STA
T Travel
T
Fly Asian Xpress Lumpur. Tel (03) 2117- 17th Floor, Putra World
(FAX) 400 Orchard Road,
2929. www.excellence Trade Center, Jalan Tun
Kuala Lumpur. Singapore. Tel 6737-7188
holidays.com Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel (03) 8775-4000.
Tel (03) 2163-0162. www.statravel.com.sg
www.flyasianxpress.com Ezz Travel
T
62E Ground Floor, Jalan Pedati Saujana TDK T
Travel and
TRAVEL
A AGENCIES Genuang, Segamat, Holidays Tours
T
Johor. Tel (07) 931-6601. 2A Bangunan MPSP,
Asian Overland B6 Sri Dagangan 2,
Services Honeyworld Kedah Darul Aman.
Tel (04) 425-2052. Kuantan, Pahang Darul.
3940 Jalan Mamanda 9, Holidays
Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. 24 Raffles Place, Tel (09) 513-4466.
Planet Travel
T
Tel (03) 4252-9100. Singapore. Block 925 Yishun Central T
Transtar T
Travel
Tel 6532-2232. 1, Singapore.
Crest Travel
T 0115 Golden Mile
and Tours
T J3 Travel
T Tel 6286-9009.
Complex, Singapore.
111 North Bridge Rd, 3 Pickering Street, Central www.planettravel.
0508 Peninsula Plaza, Singapore. Tel 6327- com.sg Tel 6299-9009.
Singapore. 4238. www.j3travel.com www.transtar.com.sg
Skyzone Tours
T
Tel 6337-9189.
Jetliner Travel
T and Travel
T TVI Holidays
Discovery Tours
T Lot 14 Level 2, Kota Lot 3.0508 Shaw Parade,
1 Raffles Place OUB
and Travel
T Kinabalu International Kuala Lumpur.
Tell 6733-4333. www. Airport, Sabah. Tel (03) 2141-8588. Center, Singapore.
discoverytours.com.sg Tel (089) 222-737. www.skyzonetours.com Tel 6533-2533.
Traveling by Train and Boat carriages have sleeper berths

on overnight trains. All classes
While domestic flights are cheap and convenient for have air conditioning, which
visitors with limited time, boat and train travel offers is generally very cold, making
travelers a sense of the geographical variety and rich- a jacket or blanket a neces-
ness of Malaysia and Singapore. The railway connects sity. Third-class carriages
many major towns in Peninsular Malaysia, while visitors usually have fans. Free time-
tables are available online
to Sabah can experience rail travel on a short stretch and at all KTM stations.
from Kota Kinabalu to Tenom. A range of boats is avail- In a class of its own is the
able to tourists, from dugout canoes to luxury cruise Eastern & Oriental Express
liners. Many, such as the ekspress boats of Sarawak, (E & O), which takes three
have a distinctive character found nowhere else in days to get from Singapore to
Malaysia. Boat and train journeys take longer than flights Bangkok. This train makes
and are suitable for travelers on an extended holiday. brief stops at Kanchanaburi
in Thailand, Kuala Lumpur,
and Butterworth, to allow
passengers some time to
sightsee in these towns.
TRAIN TICKETS, FARES,

AND RESERVATIONS
Tickets can be purchased at

all mainline stations, through
the KTM website, or from
travel agents. Fares depend
on the type of train and class
of carriage. Fares for first-class
travel are about double the
price of second class, which
is approximately double that
KTM Komuter train at a Malaysian station of third class. Sleeping berths
are available for a small
RAILROAD NETWORK to Thailand use the West charge in addition to the
Coast line, but it is possible to basic fare.
The Malaysian railroad system, take the East Coast line up to Tourist rail passes offering
Keretapi T
Tanah Melayu Berhad Pasir Mas, and take a bus or unlimited train travel are also
(KTM), is a modern, econom- taxi over the border to Sungei available. Visitors can pay
ical, and comfortable mode of Golok, Thailands southern- US$35 for 5 days, US$55 for
transport. The railroad was most railroad station. 10 days, and US$70 for 15
the only way to get around the In Borneo, the only railroad days. The passes are dis-
country before the construction line is in Sabah, and visitors counted by almost 50 percent
of the peninsulas road net- can ride the short stretch from for children. The fare from
work, and many of the stations Kota Kinabalu to Tenom, pass- Singapore to Bangkok on the
in the interior still retain their ing through the long gorge of luxurious Eastern & Oriental
original colonial architecture. the Sungai Padas (see p181). Express is over US$1,500.
The network consists of two KTM also runs Komuter Advance booking is advis-
main lines, with a few minor trains, an electrified short- able for express trains if a
branches running down to the distance train service connect- sleeping berth is required.
west coast. From its starting ing Kuala Lumpur to the
point in Singapore, the West surrounding suburban areas.
Coast line heads north to
Kuala Lumpur, then on to TRAINS
Ipoh and Butterworth, before
finally connecting at the bor- There are two types of trains:
der town of Padang Besar express trains that stop only
with Thai Railways. at the main stations, and the
The second route is the East slower and cheaper local
Coast line, popularly known as trains that also stop at smaller
The Jungle Railway (see p149). stations. Express trains run
Branching off the West Coast only on the West Coast line,
line at Gemas, about 37 miles but local trains operate on
(60 km) northeast of Malacca, both lines. Express trains
it heads north through Kuala usually consist of first and
Lipis to Tumpat on the north- second class, while local
east coast near the Thai trains are generally third class. Ticket barrier at a platform in Kuala
border. Most travelers heading All first- and second-class Lumpur
DIRECTORY
RAILROAD STATIONS
Alor Star
Tel (04) 731-4045.
Butterworth
Tel (04) 323-7962.
Gemas
Tel (07) 948-2863.
Ipoh
Passengers boarding ferries on the Batang Rajang Tel (05) 254-0481.
Johor Bahru
BOAT FACILITIES, services both from Kuala
Tel (07) 223-4727.
SERVICES, AND FARES Kedah and Kuala Perlis.
Regular ferries run between Klang
With regular services to Lumut and Pulau Pangkor. Tel (03) 3371-9917.
popular destinations, boats On the east coast, there
and ferries are among the are several daily ferries from Kuala Lipis
most popular ways to get to Merang to Pulau Redang and Tel (09) 312-1341.
riverside towns and offshore from Kuala Besut to the
islands. Most traditional bum- Perhentian Islands. Visitors Kuala Lumpur Sentral
boats have been replaced by to Pulao Tioman can get a Tel (03) 2730-2000.
faster and sleeker ekpress boats ferry either from Peninsular Padang Besar
that offer basic seating with Malaysia or take a catamaran Tel (04) 949-0231.
canopies for protection from from Singapore. There are
the elements. Since they are no boat services connecting Pasir Mas
intended to be used only for Peninsular Malaysia with Tel (09) 790-9025.
short journeys, there are Malaysian Borneo.
usually no toilets or facilities In Sarawak, longboats and Singapore
for buying refreshments. ekpress boats are the principal Tel 6222-5165.
Although most boats are methods of travel. They link T
Tumpat
quite modern, safety pre- Kuching with Sibu, Kapit, and
Tel (09) 725-7232.
cautions can be somewhat Belaga along Batang Rajang,
lax, with some operators while in the north of the prov-
RAILROAD NETWORK
overloading their vessels or ince, they are the main modes
not insisting on the use of of transport along Sungai Keretapi T
Tanah Melayu
life jackets. Services are also Baram. While there are no Berhad (KTM)
likely to be temporarily sus- riverboat services in Sabah, a
Tel (03) 2267-1200.
pended due to inclement regular ferry runs between
weather during the monsoon. Menumbok and Pulau Labuan. www.ktmb.com.my
Boat fares vary according to Visitors to Singapore can
the length of the journey and enjoy a cruise on a traditional TRAINS
the condition of the vessel, but bumboat along the Singapore
Eastern & Oriental
an average hour- r long journey River or around the southern
costs about RM15.
R Advance islands. Several companies Express (E & O)
booking for tickets is not organize these cruises, includ- www.orient-express.com
required, and payment can be ing River Boat, River Cruises,
made at the jetty or on board. Watertours, Cruise Ferries, SINGAPORE CRUISES
Penguin Ferry Services, and
Cruise Ferries
BOAT ROUTES AND Eastwind Organization.
Tel 6456-8518.
CRUISES
Eastwind Organization
In Malaysia, many major Tel 6333-3432.
towns along the coasts and
along rivers are connected by Penguin Ferry Services
ferry, or ekspress boats. On the Tel 6271-4866.
west coast of the peninsula,
Butterworth is linked to Pulau River Boat
Penang by a car ferry, which Tel 6338-9205.
remains popular despite the River Cruises
existence of a road bridge Tel 6336-6111.
between the mainland and the
island. There is a twice daily Watertours
ferry service to Pulau Langkawi Passengers purchasing tickets at a Tel 6533-9811.
from Penang, and hourly ferry port
Traveling by Road Travelers should note that

long-distance bus terminals
The roads in Malaysia and Singapore are generally in are often located on the
very good condition and the network is comprehen- outskirts of a town, requiring
sive, making it easy to get around. There is an extensive a local bus or taxi ride to get
and inexpensive bus system, and both state-run and there, and that long-distance
private companies operate services that connect many buses tend to set out in the
early morning or evening.
major towns in Malaysian Borneo and most towns on
the peninsula, with good connections to Singapore as BUS TICKETS AND FARES
well. Long-distance taxis are a good option for group
travel, while car hire is reasonably priced and a good Reservations for travel on
alternative for those who prefer flexible itineraries. buses are usually not nec-
essary in Singapore and
Malaysia, except during pub-
lic holidays such as Christmas
and Chinese New Year when
many locals are traveling.
Most people buy their tickets
at the bus company office
located at each bus station
just before boarding a coach,
but it is possible to book in
advance to guarantee a place.
Departure times are displayed
on a placard in front of the
Long-distance luxury buses run by Transnasional
T office. Fares are reasonable
and depend on the comfort
ROAD NETWORK LONG-DISTANCE BUSES provided by the bus.
Peninsular Malaysias road Traveling around Malaysia by LONG-DISTANCE TAXIS

network is excellent, offering bus is fast, comfortable, and
one of the best ways of cheap. Several private opera- Long-distance taxis or share
exploring the country. The tors, including Plusliner and taxis are worth considering,
main road that runs along the T
Transnasional , run air- especially when traveling in
peninsula is the North-South conditioned luxury buses groups of three or four. Solo
Highway, a six-lane toll road between major towns. travelers will need to wait
between Johor Bahru in the Buses linking smaller until the driver has a full
south and the Thai border. towns make more stops complement of four pas-
Route 8 goes up the east and are not all air- sengers, as these taxis
coast, linking Bentong, near conditioned. In rural operate on a shared-cost
Kuala Lumpur, with Kota areas, regular buses are basis. The waiting time is
Bharu in the north. Route 4 replaced by minibuses or usually not long, and is
and Route 145 connect the converted pick-up trucks. shorter early in the morn-
east and west coasts of the Other major bus operators ing. It is also possible to
peninsula. VVarious other roads include Sri Maju, Transtar
T , charter the whole taxi for
connect towns in the interior. Aeroline, Hasry Express, the price of four single
Due to the rugged terrain, Biaramas, T Tung Ma fares. There is usually a
the network in Malaysian Express, and Tuaran
T long-distance taxi stand
Borneo is limited. In Sarawak United Transport
T . Taxi stand right next to the long-
T
the only long-distance road There are bus services sign distance bus station in
runs up the coast between to Singapore from several each town, with fares
Kuching and Miri, although Malaysian towns, including for various destinations
there are numerous good Kuala Lumpur, Malacca, Ipoh, posted on a board. Taxi fares
roads around Kuching itself. and Penang. Buses from are about double the bus
Sabah has a comparatively Malaysia stop at the Ban San, fare, but the service is much
weak network, especially the Golden Mile Complex, or quicker. Night journeys may
roads in the interior; however, Lavender Street terminals. have an additional fare.
the road heading north and
south along the coast from
Kota Kinabalu is good.
Malaysia has two land
bridge connections with
Singapore a causeway
between Johor Bahru and
Singapore and a second link
between Tuas in Singapore
and Geylang Patah in Malaysia. A long-distance taxi
CAR AND MOTORBIKE While renting from a local

RENTALS firm may be tempting, it
could be a problem if the
Renting a car is an appealing vehicle breaks down far from
way of exploring Malaysia, as the rental office and the com-
it offers travelers the freedom pany has no local backup, so
to change their travel plans at enquire about their network
will. Rental agencies usually before signing a deal. Visitors
require that drivers be over should note that 4WD vehicles
23 years of age and have held for rent are scarce, so those
a clean driving license for at heading for the hills should
least a year. Overseas visitors employ a reliable tour operator
will need an International Motorbikes lined up for hire outside who can provide an appro-
Driving License. a rental agency priate vehicle with a driver.
Car hire rates are higher in
Malaysian Borneo than on the owners or shops who rent RULES OF THE ROAD
peninsula. While insurance them out rarely ask to see a
is generally included in the license. Rental rates are rea- Vehicles drive on the left in
V
price, it is wise to spend extra sonable, and this can be a both Singapore and Malaysia.
for Collision Damage Waiver good way of exploring islands, The use of seat belts is oblig-
(CDW) insurance, which such as Pulau Penang and atory, and within cities, the
covers costs resulting from Pulau Langkawi, or attractions speed limit is 31 mph (50 km/
accidents. Renting a car in on the outskirts of cities. h). Most road signs are self-
f
Singapore costs more than in All major rental agencies, explanatory, except for the
Malaysia, with rental and fuel including Budget, Hertz, Avis
A , ubiquitous awass in Malaysia,
costing almost double. There and Thrifty are represented, meaning be careful. The
are also surcharges for driving along with local agencies, permissable level of alcohol
hired cars from Malaysia to such as Mayflower, Orix, in the blood is 0.8 percent in
Singapore and vice versa. Hornbill, Pronto, Extra, Malaysia and there are heavy
Hiring a motorbike is less Kinabalu, and Popular, which penalties for those convicted
formal, and the guesthouse sometimes offer cheaper rates. of drinking and driving.
DIRECTORY
LONG-DISTANCE T
Transnasional Budget Mayflower
BUSES Kuala Lumpur. Tel 1-800 801-563. Mayflower Building, Kuala
Tel (03) 4047-7878. www.budget.com Lumpur. Tel (03) 6252-
Aeroline www.transnasional.
Extra 1888. www.mayflower
Kuala Lumpur. com.my
Tel (03) 6258-8800. Beverley Hotel, carrental.com.my
Singapore. T
Transtar Jalan Kemajuan,
Singapore.
Orix
Tel 6733-7010. Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia.
Tel 6299-9009. Tel (088) 218-160. Counter C2, Arrival Level,
www.aeroline.com.my
www.transtar.com.sg www.e-erac-online.com Main Terminal Building,
Biaramas KLIA, Malaysia.
Lot 2922 & 2923, Tuaran United
T Hertz
Tel (03) 8787-4294.
Jalan Datuk Tawi Sli, T
Transport B10, Terminal Building,
Kuching, Malaysia. 1st Floor, Wisma KLIA, Malaysia. www.orixcarrentals.
Tel (082) 456-999. Pendidikan, Kota Tel (03) 8776-4507. com.my
www.biaramas.com Kinabalu, Malaysia. www.hertz-malaysia.com
Popular
Tel (088) 269-505. 15 Scotts Road, Thong-
Hasry Express 501 Guillemard Road,
Teck Building, Singapore.
Singapore. Tung Ma Express
T Singapore.
Tel 6294-9306. Map 1 F2. Tel 6734-
Jalan Padang, Kota Tel 6742-8888.
www.hasryexpress.com 4646. www.hertz.com
Kinabalu, Malaysia.
www.popularcar.com
Plusliner Tel (088) 251-055. Hornbill
Kuala Lumpur. Lot 99, Jalan Datuk Pronto
CAR AND Abang Abdul Rahim, No. 98, Jalan Padungan,
Tel (03) 2274-0499.
Singapore.
MOTORBIKE Kuching, Malaysia. Kuching, Malaysia.
Tel 6256-5755.
RENTALS Tel (082) 343-489. Tell (082) 237-889.
www.plusliner.com www.mytours.com.my/
A
Avis Thrifty
hornbill
Sri Maju B-16, Main Terminal,
20 Changi North
Nos. 2, 4, & 6, Jalan KLIA, Malaysia. Kinabalu
Karamunsing Complex, Crescent, Singapore.
Bendahara, Ipoh, Tel (03) 9222-2558
Malaysia. Terminal 2, Singapore. Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia. Tel 6741-6222.
Tel (05) 253-5367. Tel 6542-8855. Tel (088) 232-602. www.thrifty.rentals.
www.srimaju.com www.avis.com www.kinabalurac.com com.sg
Getting around KL & Singapore

Both Kuala Lumpur and Singapore are relatively easy
to get around, as there is a variety of transport methods
at a visitors disposal. The Light Rail Transit (LRT) and
Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) metro systems are swift and
efficient. Bus lines cover both cities quite thoroughly,
and metered taxis are convenient and easy to find.
Some trishaws, or three-wheeled bicycle taxis, still ply
the streets offering fun but expensive rides for tourists.
The most enjoyable way of getting around is walking,
but while Singapore is pedestrian-friendly, Kuala Fully air-conditioned MRT train
Lumpur is not easy to walk around. For travelers with traveling on an elevated track
limited time, it is worth considering an organized tour.
credit on the card can be
reclaimed at a card outlet on
and humid climate of both departure. A Tourist Day
cities requires precautions such ticket available for S$10 at
as using sunblock, carrying MRT stations allows up to 12
enough drinking water, and bus or MRT rides a day regard-
limiting walks to a few hours less of the distance traveled.
to avoid exhaustion. Smoking, eating, and drinking
are prohibited on the MRT.
METROS
BUSES
In Kuala Lumpur the LRT is a
fast and economical way of Kuala Lumpur is well-served
getting around the city, with by buses, which run at close
Pedestrians window-shopping in trains arriving every 5 to 15 intervals between 6am and
Kuala Lumpurs Chinatown minutes between
t 6am and 11pm, although poor signage
midnight. It is possible to pay and problems with route
WALKING for a single trip, information can occa-
but it is better to ionally cause visitors
All the main areas of interest get a Touch n ome confusion. One
in Kuala Lumpur, such as the Go card which is of the most use-
colonial district, Chinatown, a stored-value ul lines for
and Little India, are close ticket that can ourists is the
together and can easily be also be used on City Shuttle,
covered on foot. However, as City Shuttle buses. which links
six-lane roads and flyovers LRT maps are available many downtown
divide Kuala Lumpur into at all stations. LRT ticket, locations. The
sections unconnected by side- Singapores MRT is Kuala Lumpur shuttle is operated by
walks, strolling beyond these often acclaimed as the Rapid KL, who also run
areas is unviable. Traffic is best metro in the world the LRT. A day ticket costs
fast-moving and heavy, so visi- because of its clean carriages, R RM2, while the integrated bus
tors should always be alert. speedy service,
r and low and LRT daily pass costs RM7.R
The situation is better in prices. The most convenient City Shuttle route numbers
Singapore. The city center is way to pay is the stored-value are 101 to 115 and these
pedestrian-friendly and con- ticket, called an EZ-link card buses can be identified by a
ducive to strolling around or worth S$15, which includes a red disk on the windscreen.
window-shopping, especially S$3 deposit and is valid on all In Singapore there are two
along Orchard Road. The hot MRT and bus journeys. Any major bus companies, SBS
and SMRT, who also run train
and taxi services. As on the
MRT, the easiest way to pay
the fare is the EZ-link card,
which must be tapped against
a machine when boarding
and leaving the bus. If paying
by cash, drop the exact fare in
the box as no change is given.
A more tourist-oriented form
of transport is the Singapore
T
Trolley , which runs between
the Singapore Botanic Garden
and Suntec City, with a daily
Passengers waiting to board a city bus in Kuala Lumpur pass costing S$14.90.
T
TAXIS DIRECTORY
Taxis can be particularly useful BUS COMPANIES
P
when arriving in an unknown
city as they spare the need for Rapid KL
prior knowledge of the citys No.1 Jalan PJU 1A/46, Petaling
layout, though such service Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia.
comes at a price. In Kuala Tel 1-800 388-228.
Lumpur, red and white taxis www.rapidkl.com.my
charge an initial fare of RM2
R Singapore Trolley
T
for the first mile, and 10 cents Tel 6339 6833.
for every 220 yards (200 m)
thereafter. Drivers often SBS
decline to use the meter with 205 Braddell Road, Singapore.
tourists, and try to agree on Tel 1-800 2255-663.
a fixed fare that is inevitably www.sbstransit.com.sg
higher than the meter rate. The enormous Petronas Towers,
T SMRT
Note that meters are also occa- one of the highlights of a city tour Singapore. Tel 1-800 2255-663.
sionally doctored. It is wise to www.smrt.com.sg
confirm the usual fare for a full-day tours or 3-hour city
planned journey with your highlight tours, which take T
TAXI COMPANIES
P
hotel before setting out. Most in the Petronas Towers, the
fares in the city should be Royal Palace, Chinatown, the City Cab
RM10, but 50 percent extra
R Lake Gardens, and the National Singapore. Tel 6552-2222.
is charged after midnight. Museum, there are walking
Comfort Cabs
Taxis are easily available on tours, architectural tours, and
Kuala Lumpur.
the streets of Singapore. They museum tours. Tour
T East,
Tel (03) 6253-1313.
have a flag fare of S$2.50 for Reliance Travel
T , Angel Tours
T ,
the first kilometer, and S$0.50 and Borneo Travel
T in Kuala Radio Teksi
T
for each subsequent kilometer. Lumpur offer a variety of Kuala Lumpur.
There are, however, provisions engaging tour options. Tel (03) 9131-8080.
for additional surcharges. SBS In Singapore tours usually
T
Transit , Comfort Cabs, Sunlight take in Orchard Road, Little SBS Transit
T
T , Radio Teksi
Taxi T , City Cab, and India, and Chinatown, though
Smart are among the taxi specialist tours are also avai- Smart
service providers here. lable, covering themes such as Singapore. Tel 6485-7700.
World War II sights, Asian
ORGANIZED TOURS cuisine, and Singapores throb- Sunlight Taxi
T
bing nightlife. For a more Kuala Lumpur.
Taking an organized tour is personalized tour, with a Tel (03) 9057-5757.
the ideal way of seeing a tailor-made itinerary, it is best
citys major sights in relative to contact the Registered ORGANIZED TOURS
comfort, and there are plenty Tourist Guides Association
T Angel Tours
T
of companies that offer such of Singapore. Holiday Tours
T , Kuala Lumpur.
tours in both Kuala Lumpur RMG Tours
T , and SH Tours
T Tel (03) 2141-7018.
and Singapore. In Kuala also organize packaged
Lumpur, apart from grand excursions of Singapore. Borneo Travel
T
Kuala Lumpur.
Tel (03) 2161-2130.
Holiday Tours
T
Registered Tourist
T Guides
Association of Singapore
Reliance Travel
T
White taxi, Kuala Lumpur
6022. www.reliancetravel.com
RMG Tours
T
SH Tours
T
T
Tour East
Kuala Lumpur. Tel (04) 227-4522.
www.toureast.net
Yellow taxi, Singapore
352 G E N E R A L I N D E X
General Index
Page numbers in bold
d refer to Asian Civilizations Beaches (cont.)
main entries Museum II 208, 210 at Port Dickson (Seremban) 120
Aspinall, George 243 Sabak (Kelantan) 132
100 Cintra Street (Georgetown) 103, Astana (Kuching) 10, 156, 157 Salang (Pulau Tioman) 131
104, 318 ATMs 338
A Teluk Dalam Kecil 142
8 Heeren Street (Jalan Tun Tan Chen Teluk Ketapang (Pulau Pangkor) 94
Lock) 125 Three Coves Bay (Pulau
B Perhentian Besar) 142
Baba-Nonya seee Straits Chinese See also Diving, Snorkeling
A Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum 9, 125, Beaufort (Sabah) 181
AFamosa fortress (St. Pauls Hill) 126-7 Belacan 166
122 Badan Warisan 75 Belaga 152, 165
Accommodation Badawi, Datuk Seri Abdullah Bendahara House (Kampong
government rest houses 270 Ahmed 45, 48 Glam) 226
homestays 270 Bajau 21, 53, 152, 182, 192 Beurel, Father Jean-Marie 213
longhouses see Longhouses Bako National Park 10, 151, 1623 Bidayuh 21, 51, 154, 159, 161
national parks and camping 271 Balai Besar (A
( lor Star) 111 Bidwell, Alfred John 235
See also Hotels Balai Nobat (A
( lor Star) 111 Bintulu 166, 282, 306
Aceh 36 Balai Seni Lukis Negeri (A
( lor Birch Memorial Clock Tower
Aidilfitri seee Hari Raya Puasa Star) 111 (Ipoh) 94
Agnes Keiths House (Sankadan) 190 Bamboo products 317 Birch, J.W.W. 41, 94
Ahmed, Sultan 146 Bandar Seri Begawan (Brunei) Bird-watching 328, 329
Ailing Bay (Teluk Bahang) 108 55, 172 Bird Park (Lake Gardens) 67
Air Batang (Pulau Tioman) 131 Bangsar (Kuala Lumpur) 272, 298 Jurong Bird and Reptile
Air Tejun Galas Falls (Tawau Hill Bank of China (Raffles Place) 221 Parks 237, 239
State Park) 193 Banking and Currency 3389 Kinabalu National Park 184
Air travel 342, 3445 See also Credit cards, Currency. Langkawi Birds Paradise (Pulau
air fares 342 Barracuda Point (Pulau Sipadan) Langkawi) 113
domestic 3445 195 Loagan Bunut National Park 169
international airlines 342, 343 Bario (Kelabit Highlands) 169 Maxwell Hill 95
low-cost airlines 342, 343, 344, 345 Batang Rajang 11, 152, 164 Pulau Dayang Bunting (Pulau
Alatas, Syed Mohammed 102 Batik Langkawi) 115
Allans Waters (Frasers Hill) 91 fabric 23, 30, 228 Pulau Ubin 243, 247
Allied War Cemetery (Pulau shopping 316, 319 Taman Alam Kuala Selangor
Labaun) 181 Bats 16, 150 Nature Park 91
Alor Star 111, 276 exodus, Deer Cave (Mulu National Taman Negara 138
Alsagoff Arabic School (Kampong Park) 170 Tawau Hill State Park 193
Glam) 226 Gomantong Caves 191 See also Fauna, Wildlife viewing
Ampang (Kuala Lumpur) Great Cave (Niah Caves National Boatbuilders of Pulau Duyung 143
accommodation 272 Park) 168 Boat Quay 205, 221
restaurants 298 Battle Box (Fort Canning Park) 217 Boat travel 343, 347
Ancestral tablets 223 Batu Caves 29, 50, 64, 88, 90, 325 boat tours and cruises 169, 347
Anderson Bridge (Singapore Batu Ferringhi 9, 108 facilities, services, and fares 347
River) 204, 210 Batu Maung 109 longboats 347
Anglo-Dutch Treaty 37, 40 Bau 161 ekspress boats 346, 347
Anglo-Siamese Treaty 41 Bavanggazo 176, 183 Batang Rajang 164
Ann Siang Hill 220 Beaches Bunut Lake (Loagan Bunut
Antiques of the Orient (Tanglin Bak Bak (Kudat) 183 National Park) 169
Shopping Center) 235 Batu Ferringhi 9, 108 Lata Berkoh (Taman Negara) 138
Apsara (Tanglin Shopping Cendor (Cherating) 137 Sungai Tembeling 138
Center) 235 Cherating 137 Tasik Chini 10, 136
Aquaria KLCC 72, 73 Coral Bay (Pulau Pangkor) 9, 945 Bombalai Hill (Tawau Hill State Park)
Arab Street 201, 226, 228, 248 Damai 158, 282 193
Architecture 8, 267 Desaru 119, 129, 278 Boon Tat Street 220
See also Colonial architecture, Kalampunian (Tip of Borneo) 183 Boon, Ngiam Tong 214
Islamic architecture, Kerachut (Teluk Bahang)108 Borneo 14, 42 295
longhouses, Minangkabau Monkey (Pulau Tioman) 131 See also Brunei, Sabah, Sarawak
architecture Palawan (Sentosa) 245 Borneo Adventures 271, 334
Armenian Church 21617 Pantai Cenang (Pulau Borneo Cultural Festival 53
Arnold, Joseph 180 Langkawi) 87, 112, 114 Borneo Rainforest Lodge (Danum
Aroid Walkway (Penang Botanic Pantai Dasar Sebak 148 Valley) 192
Gardens) 107 Pantai Puteri (Pulau Pangkor) 94 Borneos Railway 181
Arts and Crafts 3031 Pantai Seri Kanangan (Brunei) 172 Botanic Garden (Putrajaya) 77
Central Market (Kuala Pantai Tengah (Pulau Botero, Fernando
Lumpur) 61, 63 Langkawi) 115 Birdd 221
Komplex Budaya Kraf 75 Pasir Antu (Tanjung Datu Brewer, Frank 220
The Arts House (Old Parliament National Park) 160 British East India Company 37, 38
House) 211 Pasir Berunpu (Tanjung Datu Brooke, Rajah Charles 40, 42, 156,
Asah Waterfall (Pulau Tioman) 130 National Park) 160 157, 164
ASEAN (A ( ssociation of South Asian Pasir Bogak (Pulau Pangkor) 94 Brooke, Rajah James 40, 151,
Nations) 44 Pasir Panjang (Perhentian 154, 157
ASEAN sculpture park (Fort Canning Islands) 142 Brunei 11, 14, 16, 37, 40, 43, 54,
Park) 217 Pasir Panjang (Pulau Redang) 142 152, 1723
Asian art (Singapore Art Pelangi (Pulau Langkawi) 88 accommodation 282
Museum) 21213 Police (Pulau Gaya) 179 restaurants 306
G E N E R A L I N D E X 353
Buaya Sangkut (Endau-Rompin Caves (cont.) Churches and cathedrals (cont.)

National Park) 137 Niah Caves National Park 11, 150, Cathedral of the Good
Buddhism 25, 49, 107, 148, 343 151, 152, 168, 325 Shepherd 213
Mahayana 25 Painted Cave (Niah Caves National Christ Church (Malacca) 9,
Theravada 25, 106, 107, 111, 148 Park) 168 118, 123
Bukit Bintang 2723, 298 Simud Hatam/Black cave Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus
Bukit Guling Getang (Taman (Gomantong Caves) 191 (Singapore) 212
Negara) 138 Simud Putih/White cave St. Andrews Cathedral 211, 216
Bukit Lagong Forest Reserve 76 (Gomantong Caves) 191 St. Georges Church
Bukit Lambir (Lambir Hills National Temple/Cathedral Cave (Georgetown) 103
Park) 169 (Batu Caves) 90 St. Marys Cathedral (Merdeka
Bukit Melawati (Kuala Selangor) 91 Tempurong (Selangor) 325 Square) 60
Bukit Nenek Semukut (Pulau Traders Cave (Niah Caves St. Pauls Church (St Pauls
Tioman) 130 National Park) 168 Hill) 122
Bukit Pagon (Brunei) 173 Wind Cave and Fairy Cave 161 Tamil Methodist Church
Bukit Teresek (Taman Negara) 139 See also Caving (Malacca) 124
Bumiputra 21, 45 Cavenagh Bridge (Singapore) 204, 209 City Hall (Padang, Singapore) 209
Bukit Timah Nature Reserve 238 Cell phones 340, 341 Civilian War Memorial (Raffles
Bunut Lake (Loagan Bunut National Centerpoint 233, 234 City) 212
Park) 169 Central Business District Clarke Quay 205, 217, 248
Burkill Hall (Singapore Botanic (Singapore) 207 Clarke, Sir Andrew 217
Gardens) 237, 240 Central Market (Kuala Lumpur) 61, 63 Clifford Pier (Raffles Place) 221
Burkill, Isaac Henry 240 Central Market (Kota Kinabalu) 179 Climbing see Outdoor activities
Bus travel 343, 346, 3489, 350 Ceramic products, shopping for 316 Clock Tower (Kuala Kangsar) 96
long distance 348, 349 Chakorn, Phra Krurasapia 148 Clock Tower (Kuching) 155
tickets and fares 348 Changi Airport 342, 343 Club Street (A
( nn Siang Hill) 220
Butterfly Garden (Cameron Changi Museum 237, 243 Coastal plains 17
Highlands) 93 Changi Prison 243 Coconut Collecting Monkeys 140
Butterfly Park (Lake Gardens) 67 Changkat Bukit Bintang (The Golden Coleman Bridge (Singapore) 205
Butterworth, W.L. 106 Triangle) 74 Coleman, George D. 205, 211, 216
Buyong Bay (Teluk Bahang) 108 Chan See Shu Yuen Temple 57, Coliseum Caf and Hotel (Jalan
64, 65 Tuanku Abdul Rahman) 70
Chap Goh Mei 50 Coliseum Cinema (Jalan Tuanku
C Charles Brooke Memorial Abdul Rahman) 70
Cameron Highlands 8, 9, 54, 88, (Kuching) 155 Colonial architecture 27
923, 989, 267, 302 Chempedak 136, 280, 304 Carcosa Seri Negara 66, 67
Cameron, William 92 Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion Courthouse Complex (Kuching) 155
Camping 271 (Georgetown) 86, 105 Fort Cornwallis 9, 100
in Forest Recreation Park (Teluk Cherating 137, 280, 304 Kuala Lumpur Railway Station 65
Bahang) 109 Chettiar Temple 200, 217 Malaysian Tourism Information
Canada Hill (Miri) 168 Chew Jetty (Georgetown) 100 Complex 74
Candi Bukit Batu Pahat (Lembah Chihuly, Dale 213 Raffles Hotel 27, 21415
Bujang) 110 Chijmes 212 Ye Olde Smokehouse (Cameron
Candi Telaga Sembilan (Gunung Children Highlands) 92
Jerai) 110 restaurants 293 The Colonial Core and
Canopy walkway traveling with 334 Chinatown (Singapore) 20623
Kinabalu National Park 185 Chinatown (Kuala Lumpur) 8, 57, accommodation 2867
Mulu National Park 171 58, 64, 273, 298 getting there 207
Taman Negara 139 Chinatown (Kuala Terengganu) 141 map 207
Car and motorbike rentals 349 Chinatown (Singapore) 11, 200, 207, Raffles Hotel 21415
Carcosa Seri Negara 66, 67 21623, 2878, 31011 restaurants 30810
Casino de Genting (Genting Chinatown Complex 219 street-by-street map 209
Highlands) 90 Chinatown Heritage Center 218 Thian Hock Keng Temple 2223
Cat Statues (Kuching) 157 Chinese Colonial life 42
Cathedral of the Good Shepherd 213 antique furniture 317 Colonization
Cave temples 88 architecture 25 British 37, 389, 40
Kek Lok Tong (Kinta Valley) 95 ceramics 317 Dutch 367
Perak Tong (Kinta Valley) 95 immigrants 20, 21, 38, 42, 44, Portuguese 36
Sam Poh Tong (Kinta Valley) 95 opera/wayangg 199, 321 Colors of Malaysia festival 51
Caves 11, 325 See also Shophouses, Straits Chinese Communications and media 34041
Batu Caves 29, 50, 64, 88, 90, 325 Chinese New Year 28, 50, 200 Concert Hall (Malaysian Tourism
Bewah Caves (Tasik Kenyir) 140 Chingayy parade 28, 200 Information Complex) 74, 32023
Clearwater Cave (Mulu National Chitty community 117 Conrad, Joseph 221
Park) 170 Chow Kit Market 57, 58, 71, Lord Jim 221
Deer Cave (Mulu National Park) 2734, 299 Consumer claims, in
170, 325 Christianity 49, 53, 201 Singapore 247, 249
Gomantong Caves 191, 325 Churches and cathedrals Conversion chart 353
Great Cave (Niah Caves National All Saints Church (Taiping) 95 Coral Garden (Pulau Langkawi) 115
Park) 168 All Souls Church (Cameron Coral Garden (Pulau Sipadan) 195
Gua Charas 136 Highlands) 92 Coral reefs 17, 18, 326
Gua Kelam (Kuala Perlis) 325 Armenian Church 21617 Miri 168
Gua Telinga (Taman Negara) 139 Cathedral of the Assumption Perhentian Islands 10, 142
Langs Cave (Mulu National (Georgetown) 104 Pulau Lankayan 191
Park) 171, 325 Cathedral of the Diocese of Penang Pulau Payar Marine Park 115
Loagan Bunut National Park 169 (Georgetown) 104 Pulau Redang 10, 1423
Coral reefs (cont.) Diving (cont.) Entertainment in Singapore (cont.)

Pulau Sipadan 55, 1945 Pulau Redang 1423 pubs, clubs, and bars 254, 255
Pulau Tenggol 139, 140 Pulau Sipadan 17, 55, 1945 Singapore Arts Festival 252, 253
Pulau Tioman 131 Pulau Susu (Perhentian Singapore International Film
Tanjung National Datu Park 160 Islands) 142 Festival 252, 253
Tunku Abdul Rahman National Pulau Tenggol 140 Singapore Piano Festival 252, 253
Park 11, 179 Pulau Tioman 17 Singapore Symphony Orchestra
Council Negeri Monument schools in Singapore 256, 257 253, 254
(Bintulu) 166 Seribuat Archipelago 9, 117, 129 theater and musicals 254, 255
Courthouse Complex (Kuching) 155 wreck diving 181, 326 tickets 252, 253
Courtyard House (Georgetown) 105 See also Outdoor activities venues 252, 253
Cowie, William 181 Dolphin Lagoon (Sentosa) 245 WOMAD festival 252, 253
Craft Batik (Teluk Bahang) 108 Dome Caf (Singapore Art Environment 49
Credit cards 246, 292, 315, 388 Museum) 213 Equinox on Level 69, Stamford Hotel
loss of 336 Dongson drums 33 (Raffles City) 212
Crocker Mountain Range 180 Dragon Boat Festival and Esplanade (Georgetown) 100
Cruises Boat Race 200 Esplanade Park 209, 210
Bunat Lake 169 Durian Perangin waterfall (Pulau Esplanade Theaters on the
River cruises 327, 329 Langkawi) 113 Bay 11, 27, 210
Santubong River 158 Dyce, Charles 213 Ethnic groups 2021
Singapore River 2045 Ethnic tensions 445
See also Boat trips
Cuisine 57, 2947 E
Malay 2945 East Coast Line seee Jungle Railway F
Malay-Chinese 296 East Coast Park 2423 Far East Square (Telok Ayer
Malay-Indian 297 Easter 50 Street) 220
in Singapore 199 E & O Hotel (Georgetown) 105 Farquhar, William 216
street food 10 Eastern and Central Peninsula Fauna
Culture and arts 49, 199 (Malaysia) 10, 13249 Bats seee Bats
Cuppage, William 234 accommodation 28081 Bees 182, 183
Currency 247, 338 area map 1345 Butterflies seee Butterfly Garden,
See also Banking and currency getting around 135 Butterfly Park
Curtis, Charles 106 Jungle Railway 149 Elephants 139, 192
Customs information 332 Kota Bharu 134, 1467 Hornbills 49, 138, 192
Cyberjaya (Kuala Lumpur) 77 restaurants 3045 Irrawaddy dolphins 158
shopping 319 Orangutans 16, 159, 161, 190, 192
Taman Negara 133, 134, 1389 Proboscis monkeys 16, 162,
D Economy 180, 191
Dali, Salvador Malaysia 48 Sumatran rhinoceros 17, 49, 138
Homage to Newton 221 Singapore 1989 Swiftlets 16, 150, 168, 191, 325
Damai Beach 158, 282 EJH Corner House (Singapore Tarsiers 185
Damansara 274, 299 Botanic Gardens) 237, 241 Turtles 19, 49, 166, 1889, 19091
Daniell, William Electricity 333 See also Landscape and Wildlife,
Panoramic Sketch of Prince of Elgin Bridge (Singapore) 205 Marine Life
Wales Island d 32 Elgin, Lord James 205 Federal Territory Day 50
Danum Valley 11, 175, 177, 192, 284 Embassies 335 Federation of Malay States 41,
Dataran Lang (Pulau Langkawi) 114 Emerald Hill 234 43, 63, 67
Datun julud dance 322 Emergency 43 Festival of the Hungry Ghosts 52,
Dayak 51, 151, 152, 161, 167 Endangered species 17 201, 254
revolt against Sultan of Brunei 40 Endau-Rompin National Park 10, 17, Festival of the Nine Emperor Gods,
de Albuquerque, Admiral Alphonso 137, 324 Singapore 201
36, 122 English Tea House (Sankadan) 190 Festivals 2829
Deepavali festival 53, 201 Entertainment in Malaysia 32023 Malaysia 503
de la Salle, John Baptist 212 art exhibitions 320 Singapore 2001, 252
Dent, Alfred 41 cinema 321, 323 Fiesta San Pedro 51
Department stores and malls 314, dance, traditional 322 Five Foot Ways 105
246, 248, 249 Dewan Filharmonik Petronas Flora
See also Malls 321, 323 Betel nut 125
Desaru Beach 119, 129, 278 event listings 320, 323 Pitcher plants 159, 185
de Sequeira, Admiral Lopez 36 music 321, 322, 323 Rafflesia 16, 38, 175, 180
Dewan Bandaran (Fort nightclubs and discos 323 Rhododendron 186
Cornwallis) 100 pubs, bars, and karaoke 322, 323 Slipper orchids 185
Dewan Bandaran (Ipoh) 94 theater 321, 323 Sundew plant 163
Dewan Undangan Negri theme parks 320, 323 Tropical montane rainforest 186
(Georgetown) 100 Entertainment in Singapore 2525 Vanda Miss Joaquim orchid 217
de Weldon, Felix 67 Buskers festival 252, 253 See also Landscape and Wildlife,
Dhammikarama Temple 106 Chinese opera 254, 255 Marine Life
Dhoby Ghaut 234 cinema 254, 255 Flora de la Mar, replica in the
Dialing codes 341 dance, western classical 254, 255 Maritime Museum (Malacca) 125
Disabled travelers 334, 335 disabled access 252, 253 Flora Fest 50
District office (Kuala Kangsar) 96 Esplanade Theaters on the Forest Recreation Park (Teluk
Diving 326, 327, 329 Bay 27, 210, 252 Bahang) 109
Monkey beach (Pulau Tioman) 131 festivals 252 Forest Research Institute of Malaysia
Perhentian Islands 142 free performances and open (FRIM) 76
Pulau Kapas 140 air shows 253 Fort Atlingsburg (Kuala Selangor) 91
Pulau Lankayan 191 information 252, 253 Fort Canning Park 207, 217
Pulau Payar Marine Park (Pulau music 254, 255 Fort Cornwallis (Georgetown) 9, 100
Langkawi) 115 nightlife 2545 Fort Dickson 279
Fort Emma (Sibu) 165 Gunung Murud (Kelabit Ikatt 30

Fort Margherita 1567 Highlands) 169 shopping 316, 317
Fort Siloso (Sentosa) 244 Gunung Perdah (Cameron Imitation goods 315
Fort Sylvia (Kapit) 165 Highlands) 92 Indian
Forum (Orchard Road) 232 Gunung Perigi (Gunung Gading brassware 317
Fraser, Louis James 91 National Park) 160 immigrants 20, 21, 38, 42
Frasers Hill 9, 91, 267 Gunung Raya (Pulau Langkawi) 113 silk saris 317
Gunung Santubong (Santubong) spices 317
158 Indigenous musicians 52, 159
G Gunung Sebuloh (Gunung Gading International and local phone calls
Galleries National Park) 160 340
Galeri Petronas (Petronas Gunung Selang (Kubah National International Bird Race (Frasers
Towers) 73, 320 Park) 159 Hill) 91
Galeri Shah Alam (Lake Gunung Sendok (Kubah National International calendar 28
Gardens) 76 Park) 159 Internet facilities 340
Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah (Kuala Gunung Serapi (Kubah National Ipoh 88, 94, 267, 302
Kangsar) 97 Park) 159 Ipoh Station 94
National Art Gallery 71, 320 Gunung Tahan (Taman Negara) 138 Irranun 183
Tham Siew Inn Artist Gallery (Jalan Gunting Lagadan Hut (Kinabalu Islam 223, 34, 349
Tun Tan Chen Lock) 125 National Park) 187 Islamic architecture 22
Gamelan music 147 Islamic art 23
Garnault, Bishop Arnaud-Antoine 104 Islamic Arts Museum 689
Gawai festival 51, 161, 164 H Islands
Gay and lesbian travelers 334, 335 Hanging Gardens (Pulau Kusu Island/Turtle Island 201,
Gedung Raja Abdullah (Klang) 77 Sipadan) 194 237, 242
Gelanggang Seni (Kota Bharu) 147 Hanuman, monkey god 231 Perhentian Islands 54, 132, 134,
Gemas (Negeri Sembilan) 149 Hari Raya Haji 50, 201 142, 281, 305
General precautions 336 Hari Raya Puasa 20, 29, 52, 201 Pulau Aur (Seribuat
Genting Highlands 9091 Harpley, Sidney Archipelago) 129
accommodation 267 Girl on a Swing 237, 240 Pulau Bakungan Kecil (Turtle
Arena of the Stars stadium 322 Harrisson, Tom 168 Islands National Park) 190
Genting Theme Park 90, 320 Haw Par Villa 236, 237, 242 Pulau Besar (Seribuat
restaurants 302 Haxworth, W.R.M. 243 Archipelago) 129, 279
Georgetown 9, 87, 1005 Health 3367 Pulau Bohey Dulang (Semporna)
Global Silk Store 70, 318, 319 Heritage Village (Sabah 192
Golden Shoe seee Central Business Museum) 178 Pulau Dayan Bunting (Pulau
District Hiking see Trails, Trekking Langkawi) 115
The Golden Triangle 8, 57, 58, 74 Hill Street Building (Singapore) 205 Pulau Dayang (Seribuat
accommodation 274 Hin, Ooi Kooi Archipelago) 129
pubs and bars 322, 323 Its So Quiet 71 Pulau Duyung 141, 143
restaurants 299300 Hinduism 24, 33, 49 Pulau Gaya (Tunku Abdul Rahman
Golf 328, 329 Historic underwater shipwrecks National Park) 179
Malaysian Open Golf Pulau Kapas 140 Pulau Gemia 140
Championship 50 Pulau Redang 142 Pulau Gulisan (Turtle Islands
Golf and golf clubs in Singapore History 3345 National Park) 190
257, 258 The Straits Settlements 37, 389 Pulau Kapas 140, 281
Gomantong Caves 191, 325 Homestays 270 Pulau Ketam 77
Gombak 274 Hornaday, William 90 Pulau Kukup 128
Gombizau 176, 182 Hornbill dance seee Datun julud Pulau Labuan 1801
Gongs 1823 Hospitals and medical treatment 337 Pulau Langkawi 11215
Good luck charms 317 Hotels 27091 Pulau Langkayan 11, 176, 191
Goodwood Park Hotel 235 boutique hotels 270 Pulau Mabul (Semporna) 192
Government rest houses 270 budget hotels 64, 270 Pulau Mamutik (Tunku Abdul
Great Cat of Kuching 157 Eastern and Central Rahman National Park) 179
Great Singapore Sale 200, 247 Peninsula 28081 Pulau Manukan (Tunku Abdul
Gua Charas 136 Farther afield (Singapore) 291 Rahman National Park) 179
Gua Musang (Kelantan) 149 hidden costs 271 Pulau Pangkor 945
Guided tours 324, 329 international and resort hotels 270 Pulau Payar Marine Park (Pulau
Gunung Api (Mulu National Kuala Lumpur 2725 Langkawi) 115
Park) 170, 171 mid-range hotels 270 Pulau Pemanggil (Seribuat
Gunung Gading (Gunung Gading Northwest Peninsula 2767 Archipelago) 129
National Park) 160 rates and reservations 271 Pulau Rawa (Seribuat
Gunung Gading National Park ratings 270 Archipelago) 129
16061 Sabah 2845 Pulau Redang 10, 142, 134,
Gunung Jasar (Cameron Sarawak 2823 281, 305
Highlands) 92 Singapore 28691 Pulau Sapi (Tunku Abdul Rahman
Gunung Jerai 110 Southern Peninsula 2789 National Park) 179
Gunung Kinabalu (Kinabalu National travelers with special needs 271 Pulau Selingan (Turtle Island
Park) 174, 175, 176, 178, 184, travelers with children 271 National Park) 190
1867, 324 See also Accommodation Pulau Sibu (Seribuat
Gunung Lundu (Gunung Gading Hubbock, A.B. 62, 65 Archipelago) 129, 279
National Park) 160 Hussein, Ibrahim 115 Pulau Sipadan 11, 17, 54, 176,
Gunung Machincang (Pulau 177, 1945
Langkawi) 115 Pulau Sulug (Tunku Abdul Rahman
Gunung Magdalena (Tawau Hill State I National Park) 179
Park) 193 Iban 21, 154, 159, 161, 164, 165, Pulau Susu (Perhentian
Gunung Mulu (Mulu National 167, 320 Islands) 142
Park) 11, 17071, 324 Idris, Sultan 96 Pulau Tenggol 140, 281
Islands (cont.) Kanowit (Sibu) 165 Kuala Lumpur Railway Station 65

Pulau Tinggi (Seribuat Kapit 152, 165, 282 Kuala Lumpur International Arts
Archipelago) 129 Kapitan China 65 Festival 51
Pulau Tioman (Seribuat Kavadii 29, 50, 230 Kuala Lumpur International Buskers
Archipelago) 9, 17, 116, 117, Kayan 164 Festival 53
129, 13031, 279 Kedai kopii 57, 64, 128 Kuala Pilah 120
Pulau Tulai (Pulau Tioman) 131 Keith, Agnes 190 Kuala Selangor 91, 267
Pulau Ubin 243, 247 Kek Lok Si Temple 89, 107 Kuala Terengganu 10, 134, 141
Sentosa 237, 2445 Kek Lok Tong (Kinta Valley) 95 accommodation 280
Ismail IV, Sultan 146 Kelabit 21, 169 restaurants 304
Istana Maziah (Kuala Kelabit Highlands 11, 169 shopping 319
Terengganu) 141 Kelantan 10, 41, 133, 146, 315 Kuan Yin, goddess 25, 107, 222
Istana Abu Bakar (Pekan) 137 Kellies Castle 94 Kuantan 134, 136, 28081, 304
Istana Alam Shah (Klang) 77 Kenyah 164, 165 Kuat, Phorthan 106
Istana Ampang Tinggi (Seremban) Keriss 31 Kubah National Park and Matang
120, 121 Khoo clan 101 Wildlife Center 159
Istana Balai Besar (Kota Bharu) 146 Kinabatangan Wildlife Kuching 10, 30, 151, 152, 1547
Istana Hulu (Kuala Kangsar) 97 Sanctuary 11, 191 Kuching festival 52
Istana Iskandariah (Kuala Kangsar) 97 Kings Birthday 51 Kuching Waterfront 154, 156
Istana Kampong Glam 226, 228 Kings Enclave seee Kota Raja Kuching Waterfront Bazaar 156
Istana Kenangan (Kuala Kangsar) 97 Kinabalu National Park 11, 176, Kudat 183
Istana Lama (Sri Menanti) 118, 12021 1847 Kukup 128
Istana Nur-ul-Iman (Brunei) 173 Kinta Valley 95 Kundur, Long 146
Istana Tengku Long (Kuala Kites 49, 1445 Kusu Island 201, 237, 242
Terengganu) 141 Kelantan 147
shopping 316, 319
Klang 57, 767 L
J Klias Wetlands 180 Labi (Brunei) 172
Jakun 136 Kling 39 Labuan International Sea
Jalan Hang Jebat (Malacca) 124 KLCC Gardens 73, 2745, 300 Challenge 51
Jalan India (Kuching) 1545 KLTA
TA Tourist Information Center, Labuan Marine Park (Pulau
Jalan Petaling Market 64 National Museum 66 Labaun) 181
Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman (Kuala Koay Jetty (Weld Quay Clan Lahad Datu 285, 307
Lumpur) 70 Piers) 100 Lake Berkoh (Taman Negara) 138
Jalan Tun Tan Chen Lock 125 Kompleks Budaya Kraf (Kuala Lake Gardens (Kuala Lumpur) 57,
Jan, Samjis Mat Lumpur) 75, 318 58, 667
Rendezvous 71 Kompleks Budaya Kraf (Pulau Lake Gardens (Seremban) 120
Janing Marat Plateau (Endau-Rompin Langkawi) 115 Lake Gardens (Taiping) 95
National Park) 137 Konfrontasi, policy of 44 Laksa 294, 295
Japanese invasion 42, 148 Kong, Chor Soo 109 Laksa lemakk 295
Jawi script 23 Koran 23 Laksa noodles 106, 111
Jerantut (Jungle Railway route) 149 Kota Belanda (Pulau Pangkor) 94 Lambir Hills National Park 55, 169
Jeriau waterfall (Frasers Hill) 91 Kota Belud 176, 182 Lamin Dana (Mukah) 166
Jewelry Gallery (Islamic Arts Kota Bharu 10, 134, 1467, 319 Land Dayaks see Indigenous
Museum) 69 accommodation 280 people, Bidayuh
Jinrickshaws 219 restaurants 305 Landscape and wildlife 1617
Joaquim, Agnes 217 Kota Kinabalu 11, 14, 175, 178, 319, Langkawi Birds Paradise 113
Joget dance 322 2845, 307 Langkawi Cable Car 115
Johor Bahru 23, 117, 1289, 278, 303 Kota Kuala Kedah 111 Langkawi Crocodile Farm 112,115
Johor International Orchid Show 51 Kota Raja (Istana Kampong Langkawi History Garden 114
Johor Sultanate 36, 41 Glam) 228 Langkawi Rainforest Canopy
Jonkers street seee Jalan Hang Jebat Kota Rajah Club (Kampong Glam) 228 Adventure 114
Juara (Pulau Tioman) 130 Kuah (Pulau Langkawi) 114 Language 35, 44, 199, 335
Jungle Railway 10, 149 Kuala Besut 280 Latak Waterfall (Lambir Hills National
Jurong 237 Kuala Dungun 280 Park) 169
Jurong Bird and Reptile Kuala Jasin (Endau-Rompin National Lau Pa Sat 220
Parks 237, 239 Park) 137 Le Tour de Langkawi 50
Kuala Kangsar 87, 967, 267 Lebuh Chulia 101
Kuala Kedah 88, 111 Lee Moses, Claude 41
K Kuala Krai (Kelantan) 149 Lee Tan Jetty (Weld Quay Clan
Kadazan Dusun 21, 51, 192 Kuala Lipis (Jungle Railway Piers) 100
burial site (Danum Valley) 192 route) 149 Lembah Bujang 8, 87, 88, 110
Kali, goddess (Shri Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) 8, 12, Leong San See Temple 229
Veeramakaliamman Temple) 229 5685 Light, Sir Francis 37, 38, 103, 104,
Kalimantan 193 accommodation 2725 107, 179
Kamit, Jerry 159 capital of Federated Malay Lim Bo Seng Memorial (Padang,
Kampong Glam 11, 225, 2267 States 57 Singapore) 209, 210
Kampung Air (Pulau Redang) 142 climate 52, 53 Limestone Outcrops
Kampung A Ayer (Brunei) 173 entertainment 32024 Mulu National Park 16, 17071
Kampung Baru 8, 57, 58, 72 getting around 35051 Niah Caves 16, 168
Kampung Gumum (Tasik Chini) 136 Islamic Arts Museum 689 Lion dance 28
Kampung Jenang 140 map 589 Lister, Martin 120
Kampung Jepak (Bintulu) 166 Merdeka Square 6061 Little India (Kuala Lumpur) 8, 20, 57,
Kampung Jubakar 148 restaurants 298301 58, 70
Kampung Kuantan (Kuala shopping 318, 319 Little India (Georgetown) 103, 318
Selangor) 91 street finder map and index 7885 Little India and Orchard Road,
Kampung Pulau Keladi (Pekan) 137 Kuala Lumpur International Airport Singapore 11, 201, 22435
Kampung Tellian (Mukah) 166 342, 343, 344 accommodation 2889
Little India and Orchard Road, Malls (cont.) Markets (cont.)

Singapore (cont.) Lot 10 (The Golden Triangle) 74 Tamu Muhibba 168
getting there 225 Ngee Ann City 232, 234, 247 wet market 314
map 225 Park Mall (Orchard Road) 233 Martin Lister Memorial Arch (Kuala
restaurants 311 in Singapore 246, 248, 249 Pilah) 120
Srinivasa Perumal Temple 225, Sungai Wang Plaza (The Golden Marudu Bay 183
23031 Triangle) 74 Masjid India 70
See also Orchard Road Suria KLCC Shopping Mall Masjid Jamek (Kuala Lumpur) 61, 62,
Loagan Bunut National Park 169 (Petronas Towers) 72, 73, 318 64, 65
Lobster Lairs (Pulau Sipadan) 195 Tanglin Shopping Center 232 Masjid Negara 66
Lobby (Raffles Hotel) 214 Mandal Orchid Garden (Singapore) Masjids seee Mosques
Local markets (tamus)s 14, 316 250, 251 Masks, shopping 316
Long Bar (Raffles Hotel) 214 Manohra dance drama 147 Matang Wildlife Center 159
Longboats 164 Maps Mat Salleh rebellion 41
Long, Lee Hsien 45 Bako National Park 1623 Mausoleum of Hang Kasturi 124
Longhouses 10, 26, 167, 270 Brunei 15, 1723 Maxwell Hill (now Bukit Larut) 95, 267
Batang Rajang 164, 165 Cameron Highlands 923 Maxwell, John Argyle 208, 211
Bidayuh 161 The Colonial Core and Maxwell, William Edward 95
interiors 167 Chinatown 207 McNeice, Lady Yeun-Peng 241
Iban 154, 164, 165, 167, 172 Eastern and Central McSwiney, D.L. 213
Long Dano (Kelabit Highlands) 169 Peninsula 1345 Mee gorengg 294
Matunggung (Bavanggazo) 183 Georgetown 1001 Mee (noodles) 294
Pa Dalih (Kelabit Highlands) 169 Jungle Railway 149 Melanau 51, 159, 166
Ramudu (Kelabit Highlands) 169 Kampong Glam (street-by- Memorial Obelisk (Padang,
Rumah Nikat (Lambir Hills National street) 2267 Singapore) 209
Park) 169 Kinabalu National Park Menara KL 58, 745
Rumah Seligi (Kapit) 165 1845, 1867 Merdeka 43
Rungus 21, 178, 183 Kota Bharu City Center 147 Merdeka Eve 52
Sarawak Cultural Village 159 Kuala Lumpur 5859 Merdeka Square 8, 58, 6061
Lorong Bunus (Kuala Lumpur) 70 Kuala Lumpur street finder maps Merlion statue 204, 221
Lost and stolen property 336 and index 7885 Mersing 129, 279, 304
Low, Sir Hugh 96, 187 Kuching City Center154 Mesilau Nature Resort 184
Lows Peak (Kinabalu National Little India and Orchard Road 225 Metalwork 31
Park) 187 Malacca 123 Mid-autumn Festival 201
Loy, Yap Ah 57, 63, 65 Malaysia at a Glance 5455 Minangkabau 9, 27, 54, 117, 121
Lunar calendar 333 Malaysian Borneo 1415 Minangkabau architecture 9, 27,
Merdeka Square (street-by- 117, 121
street) 6061 Istana Ampang Tinggi 120
M Mulu National Park 17071 Istana Lama 9, 120
Ma Zho Po, goddess of sea 222 Northwest Peninsula 889 Rumah Negri Sembilan 120
MacPherson, Colonel Ronald 211 Orchard Road (street-by-street) State Secretariat Building
MacRitchie, James 220 2323 (Seremban) 120
Magellan, Ferdinand 183 Padang, Singapore (street-by- Miri 11, 168, 283, 306
Mak yong dance 147, 322 street) 209 Miri International Jazz Festival 51
Malacca 9, 35, 117, 118, 1227 Peninsular Malaysia 1213 Mixed Clan Jetty (Georgetown) 100
accommodation 278 Pulau Langkawi 11213 Mohammad, Mahathir 45
Portuguese colonization of 36 Pulau Sipadan 1945 Mohudeen, Caudeer 102
restaurants 3034 Pulau Tioman 13031 Mooncake festival 53
shopping 318, 319 Sabah 1767 Mosques
Malaqa House (Jalan Tun Tan Chen Sarawak 1523 Acheen Street Mosque
Lock) 125 Sentosa 2445 (Georgetown) 101
Malay Arch (Terengganu State Singapore 237 Al Abrar Mosque (Telok AyerA
Museum Complex) 141 Singapore River 2045 Street) 220
Malay College (Kuala Kangsar) 96 Singapore street finder maps and Al Taqwa Mosque (Miri) 168
Malay dishes and specialties 2945 index 25867 An-Nur Jamek Mosque (Pulau
Malay Heritage Center see Istana Southern Peninsula 11819 Labuan) 180
Kampong Glam Taman Negara 1389 Asy-Syakirin Mosque (Kuala
Malayan Communist party 42, 43 Mar Chor, patron saint of Lumpur) 56
Malayan Union 43 seafarers 104 Blue Mosque (Shah Alam) 76
Malays 20, 42 Marang 281 City Mosque (Kota Kinabalu) 178
Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival 52 Marine life 1819, 326 Hajjah Fatimah Mosque (Kampong
Malaysia today 45 Aquaria KLCC 73 Glam) 227
Malaysia, festivals and events See also Coral reefs, Fauna Kampung Kling Mosque 124
5053 Markets 314 Masjid Abdullah (Pekan)137
Malaysian Borneo 12, 1415, 37, 54 Central Market (Kota Kinabalu) 179 Masjid Abu Bakar (Pekan)137
Malaysian Grand Prix 5051 Central Market (Kuala Lumpur) Masjid al-Hana (Pulau
Malaysian Open Golf 61, 63 Langkawi) 113, 114
Championship 50 Chow Kit 57, 58, 71, 2734, 299 Masjid Assyakirin (Bintulu) 166
Malaysian rubber industry 96 Filipino Market 178, 179 Masjid Bandaraya/City Mosque
Malaysian Tourism Information Jalan Petaling 64 (Kuching) 1545
Complex (Kuala Lumpur) 74 Kota Belud 182 Masjid Di Raja Sultan Suleiman
traditional music performances 321 Lau Pa Sat 220 (Klang) 76, 77
Maliau Basin (Sabahs lost world) 193 Pasar Besar (Kota Bharu) 146, Masjid India 70
Malls 8 Pasar malam 64, 70, 114, 314, Masjid Jamek (Kuala Lumpur) 61,
Berjaya Times Square (The Golden 316, 318 62, 64, 65
Triangle) 74 Pasar Minggu 72 Masjid Jamek (Brunei) 152
Bussorah Mall (Kampong Pasar Payang 141 Masjid Kapitan Kling (Georgetown)
Glam) 227 Tamu Besar 53, 182 102
Mosques (cont.) Museums (cont.) National Parks and Preserves (cont.)

Masjid Melayu see Acheen National Museum of Singapore Semenggoh Nature Reserve 10,
Street Mosque 216, 250, 251 151, 161, 234
Masjid Negara 66 National Museum 8, 66 Similajau National Park 166
Masjid Negeri (Kuantan) 136 Orang Asli Museum 90 Tabin Wildlife Reserve 192
Masjid Tengku Tengah Zaharah Penang Islamic Museum 102 Taman Negara 10, 54, 133, 134,
(Kuala Terengganu) 141 Penang Museum and Art Gallery 1389
Masjid Ubudiah (Kuala Kangsar) 96 (Georgetown) 104 Tanjung Datu National Park 160,
Masjid Zahir (A
( lor Star) 111 Penang Museum and Art Gallery 324
Masjid Zainal Abidin (Kuala (Universiti Sains Malaysia) 109 Tunku Abdul Rahman National
Terengganu) 141 Perak Royal Museum (Istana Park 11, 179
Putra Mosque (Putrajaya) 77 Kenangan) 97 Turtle Island National Park 11, 55,
Sabah State Mosque (Kota Perak Museum 95 19091
Kinabalu) 178, 179 Peranakan Museum 216 Ulu Temburong National Park
State Mosque (Kuching) 1545 Petroleum Museum (Miri) 168 (Brunei) 173
State Mosque/Brick Mosque (Kota Raffles Hotel Museum 215 National Planetarium (Lake
Bharu) 146 Royal Malaysian Museum Gardens) 67
Sultan Abu Baker Mosque (Johor (Malacca) 125 National Theater (Kuala Lumpur) 71
Bahru) 129 Royal Museum ((Alor Star) 111 classical music concerts 321, 323
Sultan Ibrahim Mosque (Muar) 128 Royal Sultan Abu Bakar Museum Nature Education Center (Sepilok
Sultan Mosque 226, 228 (Johor Bahru) 129 Orangutan Rehabilitation
Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque Rumah Negeri Sembilan State Center) 190
(Brunei) 55, 173 Museum (Seremban) 120 Navaratri 103
Motorbike rentals 349 Sabah Museum 178 Negeri Sembilan 27, 41, 117, 118,
Mount Kinabalu Climbathon 52 Sarawak Museum 10, 154 121
Mountain Garden (Kinabalu National Sibu Civic Center Heritage New Town (Ipoh) 94
Park) 184 Museum 1645 Newspapers and magazines 341
Muar 128, 279 Singapore Art Museum 21213 Ngee Ann City 232, 234, 247
Muhammad II, Sultan 146 State Museum (Seremban) 120,121 Niah Caves National Park 11, 150,
Muka Head (Teluk Bahang) 108 State Museum ((Alor Star) 111 151, 152, 168, 325
Mukah 166 Sultan Abu Bakar Museum 137 Night safari 238
Multimedia Super Corridor, MSC Terengganu State Museum Norman, A.C. 60, 62
(Kuala Lumpur) 77 Complex 141 North Borneo Railway 181
Mulu National Park 11, 55, 151, 152, Textile Museum (Kuching) 154 Northwest Peninsula (Malaysia) 89,
17071 Tin Museum (Klang) 77 86115
Murugan, Hindu god 29, 90, 230 World War ll Memorial Museum accommodation 2767
Murut 51, 178 (Kota Bharu) 147 area map 889
Museums Muslims 2267 Cameron Highlands 923
Admission charges 333 Georgetown 1005
Asian Civilizations getting around 89
Museum II 208, 210 N Pulau Langkawi 11215
Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum 9, Nagore Durgha (Telok AAyer Street) 220 restaurants 302303
125, 1267 Nain, Father Charles Benedict 212 shopping 318
Cat Museum (Kuching) 157 Narcotics 336
Changi Museum 237, 243 Nasii (rice) 294
Chinese History Museum 156 National Art Gallery 71, 320 O
Darul Ridzuan Museum (Ipoh) 94 National Day 62, 52, 200 Offshore islands 17
Democratic Government Museum National History Museum 61, 63 Old Parliament House 208, 211
(Stadthuys) 122 National Monument (Lake Old town (Ipoh) 94
Forestry Museum (Gunung Gardens) 67 Omnimax Theater 239
Jerai) 110 National Museum 8, 66 Onn, Patrick Ng Kah
Fuk Tak Chi Museum (Telok AyerA National Museum of Singapore 216, Spirit of Earth, Sky and Waterr 71
Street) 220 250, 251 Orang Asli 87, 90, 133, 135, 136
Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah, Istana National Orchid Garden (Singapore Orang Asli Museum 90
Hulu (Kuala Kangsar) 97 Botanic Gardens) 237, 240, 250, 251 Orang Syam 87, 111, 133, 148
Hua Song Museum (Haw Par Villa) National Parks and Preserves 8, 49 Orang Ulu 21, 151, 159
236, 237, 242 admission charges 333 Orangutans 16, 159, 161, 190, 192
Ibrahim Hussein Museum (Pulau Bako National Park 10, 151, 1623 Orangutan rehabilitation 328
Langkawi) 112, 115 bookings and permits 324, 329 Matang Wildlife Center 159, 161
Images of Singapore (Sentosa) 244 Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve 58, 745 Semenggoh Nature Reserve 161
Islamic Art Museum 8, 689 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve 238 Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation
Islamic Museum (Kota Bharu) 1467 camping 271 Center 190
Islamic Museum (Kuching) 154 Endau-Rompin National Park 10, Tabin Wildlife Reserve 192
Istana Batu/Royal Museum (Kota 17, 137, 324 Orchard Road (Singapore) 11, 201,
Bharu) 146 Gunung Gading National Park 2325, 28990, 31112
Istana Jahar/Museum of Royal 16061 Orchids
Traditions and Customs 146 Kinabalu National Park 11, 176, breeding 237, 240
Lamin Dana (Mukah) 166 1847 Orchid Garden (Lake Gardens) 67
Lembah Bujang Archaeological Kubah National Park and Matang Johor International Orchid Show 51
Museum 110 Wildlife Center 159 Kinabalu National Park 184
Maritime Museum (Malacca)125 Kuching Wetlands National Park shopping, in Singapore 250, 251
Museum of History and 158 Singapore Botanic Gardens 237,
Ethnography (Stadthuys) 9, 122 Lambir Hills National Park 55, 169 24041, 250, 251
Museum of Literature Mulu National Park 11, 55, 151, Slipper 185
(Stadthuys) 122 152, 17071 Teluk Bahang Orchid Garden 108
Museum Sultan Azlam Shah 76 Niah Caves National Park 11, 168 Vanda Miss Joaquim 217
Muzium Budaya (Malacca) 123 Pantai Aceh Forest Reserve (Teluk Organized tours 343, 351
National History Museum 61, 63 Bahang) 108 Orlina, Ramon 213
Ornamental fountain (Raffles People of Malaysia and

Hotel) 214 Singapore 2021, 199 R
OUB Center (Raffles Place) 221 Perak (Kuala Kangsar) 33, 41, 87, 94 Raffles City 212
Outdoor activities in Malaysia 32429 95, 96 Raffles Hotel 11, 27, 105, 202, 21415
bookings and permits for National Perak Tong (Kinta Valley) 95 gift shop 250, 251
Parks 324, 329 Peranakan Museum 216 Raffles House (Fort Canning
caving 325, 329 Peranakan Place (Orchard Park) 217
golf 50, 328, 329 Road) 233, 234 Raffles Landing Site 204, 208, 210
guided tours 324, 329 Peranakans seee Straits Chinese Raffles Place 221
mountain climbing 3245 Perdana Putra (Putrajaya) 77 Raffles the Plaza Hotel (Raffles
water sports 327 Perhentian Islands 54, 132, 134, 142, City) 212
See also Diving, Cruises, 281, 305 Raffles, Sir Stamford 37, 38, 105, 117,
Snorkeling, Trekking, White-water Perlis 88 198, 180, 210,
rafting Permits and laws, in Singapore 247 Rafflesia conservation
Outdoor activities in Singapore 2567 Personal security 336 Gunung Gading National Park 160
adventure sports clubs 256, 257 Pesta Kaul festival 51, 166 Tambunan Rafflesia Forest
cycling 257 Petaling Jaya 275, 301 Reserve 180
diving 256, 257 Petra Jaya (Kuching) 157 Rahman, Tunku Abdul 43, 44, 339
golf 257, 258 Petronas Towers 8, 27, 28, 56, Rainfall chart 52
nature watch 257 57, 58, 72, 73 Rainforest World Music festival 52, 159
sailing and windsurfing 256, 257 Petrosains (Petronas Towers) 73 Rain forests 16
tennis 257 Pharmacies 337 Rajah Abdullah 65, 76, 77
water-skiing and wakeboarding Photography 334 Rajah Mahadi 76
256, 257 shopping, in Malaysia 315 Ramadan 52
Pillai, Narain 218 Rebana drums 147
The Pinnacles, Mulu National Park 171 Religion 2225, 199
P pitcher plants 159, 185 Rempah 294
Padang Kota Lama 100 Pitcher Plant Fountain (Merdeka Rendangg 294
Padang ((Alor Star) 111 Square) 60 Republic Plaza (Raffles Place) 221
Padang (Singapore) 207, 2089 Plaza Singapura (Orchard Reserves see National Parks and
Padas River 11, 181, 136 Road) 232, 233 Preserves
Pagoda of King Rama VI (Kek Lok Si Poh, Sam 109 Restaurants 2923
Temple) 107 Police 336 Eastern and Central Peninsula
Pahang 41, 133 Ponggal festival 50, 200 3045
Palace of Justice (Putrajaya) 77 Poring Hot Springs (Kinabalu eating with children 293
Palm oil 48,193 National Park) 184, 185 Farther afield (Singapore) 31213
Pancur waterfall (Lambir Hills Port Dickson (Seremban) 120 Kuala Lumpur 298301
National Park) 169 Port Klang 77, 343 Northwest Peninsula 3023
Pandok Java (Kampong Glam) 227 Port of Kuantan 48 payment and tipping 293
Pangkor Town (Pulau Pangkor) 94 Porta de Santiago (Malacca) 122 reading a menu 292
Pantai Dasar Sabak 148 Postal services 430341 reservations 293
Pantu waterfall (Lambir Hills National Practical information 33241 Sabah 307
Park) 169 Priests House (Cathedral of the Sarawak 306
Paragon Shopping Center (Orchard Good Shepherd) 213 seafood 292
Road) 232 Prophet Muhammad 23, 51 service tax 293
Parameswara 35 Protestant Cemetery (St. Georges Singapore 30813
Parasailing 179 Church) 103 smoking 293
Parliament Complex (Singapore) 204, Public holidays 53, 201 Southern Peninsula 3034
211 Pulau Kapas 140, 281 street food and stalls 292, 293
Parliament House, Padang Pulau Ketam 77 table etiquette 2923
(Singapore) 208 Pulau Labuan 1801 types 292
Pasar Minggu Market 72 Pulau Langkawi 8, 11215 vegetarian 293
Passport, loss 336 accommodation 277 wine and drink 293
Pasta Fresca Seasports Center (East duty free shopping 315 See also Cuisine
Coast Park) 2423 restaurants 3023 Ri Gong Tai Zi, sun god 222
Pavilion Square Tower (Kuala shopping 318 Ringgit 315, 339
Kangsar) 96 Pulau Lankayan 191 Rivers
Peace Park (Pulau Labuan) 18081 Pulau Pangkor 945 Batang Rajang 11, 152, 164
Pei, I.M. 212 Pulau Redang 10, 142, 134, Bunut 169
Pekan 137, 305 281, 305 Gombak 57, 61, 62
Penan 21, 159, 165 Pulau Sipadan 17, 54, 176, 177, Jaong 158
Penang 88, 103 1945 Jasin 137
accommodation 2677 Pulau Tenggol 140, 281 Jelai 149
British acquisition of 37, 38 Pulau Tioman (Seribuat Archipelago) Johor 243
restaurants 302 9, 17, 116, 117, 129, 13031, 279 Kelantan 146, 149
shopping 318 Pulau Ubin 243, 247 Kinabatangan 191
Penang Botanic Gardens 1067 Putra Bridge 77 Kinta 94
Penang Butterfly Farm (Teluk Putra World Trade Center (Kuala Klang 57, 61, 62, 72
Bahang) 108 Lumpur) 58 Kuantan 136
Penang Cultural Center (Teluk Putrajaya 57, 77 Lipis 149
Bahang) 108 Putrajaya Wetlands 77 Liwagu 184
Penang Hill 107 The Pyramid (Padang, Singapore) 208 Mukah 166
Penang International Dragon Boat Niah 168
festival 51 Padas 11, 181, 136
Penangs first coin 39 Q Pahang 136
Peng Aun Jetty (Georgetown) 100 Qing Ming festival 200 Santubong 158
Peng, Chin 43 Quaritch-Wales, H.G. 110 Sarawak 153, 154, 156
Peninsular Malaysia 1213, 48, 54 Quoin Hill Cocoa Estate (Tawau) 193 Selangor 91
Rivers (cont.) Semenggoh Nature Reserve 10, 151, Shopping in Singapore (cont.)
Singapore 2045 161, 234 books and music 250, 251
Tahan 138 Semporna 1923, 285 cameras and watches 251, 259
Tembeling 10, 138 Sematan 160 Chinatown 246
Riverside Point (Singapore) 205 Sematan Carnival 160 clothes and fabrics 248, 249
Riverwalk Galleria (Singapore) 205 Seng, Eu Tong 74 computers 250, 251
Road network 348 Seng, Lim Bo 209 department stores and malls 246,
Robinsons Department Store Seng, Tan Tock 222 248, 249
(Orchard Road) 232, 234, 246, 249 Sentosa 11, 237, 2445 electronics 250, 251
Rochor Canal 229 Sentosa Express 245 garden shop (Singapore Botanic
Rose Garden (Cameron Highlands) 93 Sentosas Songs of the Sea 244 Gardens) 250, 251
Round Tower (Kuching) 154 Sentral 275, 301 gift shop (Raffles Hotel) 250, 251
Royal Customs and Excise Building Sentry, Denis 228 gourmet food 251
(Muar) 128 Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Great Singapore Sale 247
Royal Ipoh Club 94 Center 11, 190 how to pay 246
Royal Mausoleum (Kuala Kangsar) 96 Serangoon Road 229, 248 jewelry 248, 249
Royal Selangor Club 8, 60, 62 Seremban 9, 54, 118, 120, 279, 304 Little India 246, 248
Rules of the road 349 Seri Gemilang Bridge 77 memorabilia shopping 250, 251
Rumah Seligi (Kapit) 165 Seri Rambai (Georgetown) 100 National Museum of Singapore
Rumuh Penghulu Abu Seman 75 Seribuat Archipelago 9, 117, 118, 250, 251
Rungus 21, 182, 183 129 Orchard Road 232, 246
Shah Alam 76 orchids 250, 251
Shah, Azlan 97 Raffles City Shopping Center 212,
S Shah, Sultan Ali Sikander 226, 228 246, 248
Sabah (Malaysia) 11, 14, 40, 41, 54, Shah, Sultan Hussain 226, 228 shopping hours 246
17495 Shah, Sultan Iskandariah 97 where to shop 24851
accommodation 2845 Shah, Sultan Mahmud 36 See also Malls
area map 1777 Shah, Alauddin Riyat 36 Sibu 152, 1645, 283, 306
getting around 177 Shaivism 24 Signal Hill observatory (Kota
indigenous tribes 21 Shaw Foundation Symphony Kinabalu) 178
Kinabalu National Park 176, 1847 Stage (Singapore Botanic Sikhs 20
Pulau Sipadan 176, 177, 1945 Gardens) 237, 241 Silat dance 147, 322
restaurants 307 Shophouses 9, 26 Silverware 31, 316, 318
shopping 315, 319 Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum 9, Similajau National Park 166
tourism 271, 328 125, 1267 Singapore 8, 11, 38, 39, 43, 44,
Sabah Foundation 178, 192 Boat Quay 221 45, 196267
Sacred Turtle Pond (Kek Lok Si Chinatown (Kuala Lumpur) 64 accommodation 45, 28691
Temple) 107 Chinatown Heritage Center 218 Buddhism 25
Sago Street (Singapore) 219 Five Foot Ways 105 climate 198
St. Andrews Cathedral 211, 216 Jalan Tun Tan Chen Lock The Colonial Core and
Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya (Malacca) 125 Chinatown 20623
Temple 229 Kuala Kangsar 96 entertainment see Entertainment in
Sales and sales tax 247, 315 Kuantan 136 Singapore
Sam Poh Tong (Kinta Valley) 95 Pekan 137 Farther afield 23645, 291, 31213
Samball 2945 Peranakan Place (Orchard getting around 35051
Sandakan 175, 183, 190, 285, 307 Road) 233, 234 government and politics 198
Sandakan Memorial Park 190 styles, in Singapore 219 Hinduism 24
Santry, Denis 226 Temple Street (Singapore) 218 Kampong Glam 2267
Santubong 158 Shopping in Malaysia 31419 Little India and Orchard Road, 11,
summit trekking 158 bargaining 315 201, 22435
Sarawak (Malaysia) 1011, 14, 40, 41, department stores and malls 314 Orchard Road 2323
42, 54, 15071 duty free 315, 318, 319 outdoor activities seee Outdoor
accommodation 2823 The Golden Triangle 74 activities in Singapore
area map 1523 guarantees 315 Padang 2089
Bako National Park 151, 1623 imitations 315 Raffles Hotel 21415
entertainment 322 Johor Bahru 318, 319 restaurants 30813
getting around 153 Kota Bharu 319 Sentosa 2445
indigenous tribes 21 Kota Kinabalu 319 shopping seee Shopping in
Kuching 1547 Kuala Terengganu 319 Singapore
Mulu National Park 11, 55, 151, Kuching 319 Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple
152, 17071 local markets seee Markets 23031
restaurants 306 Malacca 318, 319 Street Finder 25867
shopping 315, 319 Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival 52 Thian Hock Keng Temple
Sarawak Crafts Council (Kuching) 154 Pasar malam see Markets 2223
Sarawak Cultural Village 159 payment method, in Malaysia 315 top ten attractions 203
traditional dance and music 322 payment 315 Singapore Art Museum 21213
Sarawak Regatta 52 Penang 318 Singapore Arts Festival 200
Sarawak Steamship Building 156 photography 315 Singapore Botanic Gardens 237,
Saunders Road (Orchard Road) 234 Pulau Langkawi 318, 319 24041
Scuba diving see Diving sales tax 315 Singapore Cricket Club 208, 209
Sea Dayaks see Iban shopping hours 31415 Singapore Discovery Center 237,
Sea kayaking 140, 179 tamu seee Markets 2389
Sea stacks, Bako National Park 162 what to buy 31617 Singapore dollar 339
Segama river valley (Sabah) 192 where to shop 31819 Singapore River 204-5
Sekolah Raja Perempuan Mazwin Shopping in Singapore 24651 Singapore Science Center 239
(Kuala Kangsar) 97 antiques and crafts 248, 249 Singapore Sling 214
Selambau 169 Arab Street 228, 246, 248 Singapore Symphony Orchestra
Selangor 41, 76, 87, 91 bargaining 246 211, 254
Singapore Zoological Gardens Sultan of Johor 133 Telephone calls 340

237, 238 Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque Television and radio 341
Singlish 199 (Brunei) 55, 173 Telok AAyer Market see Lau Pa Sat
Skybridge (Petronas Towers) 72 Sultanate of Malacca 35 Telok AAyer Street 220
Smith, Captain Robert 103, 104 Sultanate of Perak 36 Teluk Bahang 108
Smith, William Kellie 94 Sulu Sea 190 Teluk Bahang Orchid Garden 108
Snake Temple 109 Sumangkap 176, 1823 Teluk Chempedak/Jackfruit Bay
Snorkeling 326, 327, 329 Sumatran Rhinoceros conservation (Kuantan) 136
Perhentian Islands 10, 142 Tabin Wildlife Reserve 192 Teluk Datai (Pulau Langkawi) 115
Pulau Gemia 139, 140 Endau-Rompin National Park 137 Teluk Melano 160
Pulau Kapas 140 See also Fauna Teluk Nipah (Pulau Pangkor) 94
Pulau Langkawi 9, 11215 Sunda Shelf 16 Temasek kingdom 217
Pulau Mamutik 179 Sungai see Rivers Temperature chart 53
Pulau Pangkor 94 Sungai Palas Tea Plantation (Cameron Temple Street (Singapore) 218
Pulau Redang 10, 1423 Highlands) 93 Temples and pilgrimage sites
Pulau Sapi 179 Sungai Santubong 158 Batu Caves 29, 50, 64, 88, 90, 325
Pulau Sulug 179 Sungai Teroi Forest Recreation Park Chan See Shu Yuen Temple 57,
Pulau Tioman 130 (Gunung Jerai) 110 64, 65
Pulau Tulai 131 Supreme Court (Padang, Cheng Hoon Teng Temple
Seribuat Archipelago 9, 117 Singapore) 208 (Malacca) 124
See also Diving Suria KLCC and KLCC Gardens 72, Chettiar Temple 200, 217
Social customs 335 73, 318 Dhammikarama Temple 106
Society and politics 48 Swettenham, Sir Frank 76 Hainan Temple (Georgetown) 104
Sogo 70, 318 Syed Alatas Mansion (Georgetown) 102 Kek Lok Si Temple 89, 107
South China Sea 12, 14, 54, 118 Symphony Lake (Singapore Botanic Keramat Kusu shrine (Kusu
South Point (Pulau Sipadan) 195 Gardens) 237, 241 Island) 237, 242
Southern Peninsula (Malaysia) 9, Sze Ya Temple 63 Khoo Kongsi Temple
116131 (Georgetown) 101
accommodation 2789 Kiu Ong Yiah Temple
area map 11819 T (Singapore) 201
Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum Tabin Wildlife Reserve 192 Kuan Yin Temple (Georgetown) 103
1267 Tadau Kaamatan 51 Kuan Yin Tong Temple 166
getting around 118 Taiping 95 Leong San See Temple 229
Malacca 1227 accommodation 277 Ling Nam Temple 95
Minangkabau architecture 121 restaurants 303 Nandy Molah Burmese Temple see
Pulau Tioman 13031 Tajor waterfall (Bako National Dhammikarama Temple
restaurants 3034 Park) 163 Nang Thiam Keng Temple 77
Sparks (Ngee Ann City) 232 Taman Alam Kuala Selangor Nature Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya
Specialist Shopping Center (Orchard Park (Kuala Selangor) 91 Temple 229
Road) 233 Taman Negara 10, 54, 133, 134, Sam Poh Footprint Temple (Batu
Square Tower (Kuching) 156 1389 Maung) 93
Sri Maha Mariamman Temple (Kuala Taman Tumbina (Bintulu) 166 Sam Poh Temple (Cameron
Lumpur) 50, 64 Tambunan Rafflesia Forest Highlands) 93
Sri Mariamman Temple (Singapore) Reserve 180 Snake Temple 109
218 Tamu seee Markets Sri Kanthaswamy Hindu
Sri Melaka (Stadthuys) 122 Tan Hoon Siang Mist House Temple 31, 120
Sri Menanti 9, 120 (Singapore Botanic Gardens) Sri Maha Mariamman Temple
Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple 23031 237, 241 (Kuala Lumpur) 50, 64
Sri Terengganu (Royal Malaysian Tanjung Datu National Park 160, 324 Sri Mariamman Temple
Museum) 125 Tan Kim Seng Fountain (Esplanade (Georgetown) 102
Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 229 Park) 210 Sri Mariamman Temple
Srivijaya empire 34 Tange, Kenzo 221 (Singapore) 218
Stadthuys 9, 36, 122 Tanglin Shopping Center 232, 235, Sri Perumal Temple 217, 23031
Staghorn Crest (Pulau Sipadan) 195 246, 248, 249 Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi
Standard Chartered Ottoman Room Tangs (Orchard Road) 232, 235 Temple 124
(Islamic Arts Museum) 69 Tanjong Pagar Conservation Area 219 Sri Shivan Temple (Malaysia) 24
State Secretariat Building Tanjung Lumpur (Kuantan) 136 Sri Shivan Temple (Singapore) 24
(Seremban) 120 Tasek Merimbun (Brunei) 172 Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple
Strait of Malacca 118, 120 Tasik Chini 10, 134, 1367 23031
Straits Chinese 104, 117, 122, 126, 234 accommodation 281 Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 229
architecture 26 restaurants 305 Sze Ya Temple 63
Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum 9, Tasik Dayang Bunting (Pulau Thean Hou Temple 59, 67
125, 1267 Langkawi) 112, 115 Thian Hock Keng Temple 200,
cuisine 295 Legend of 112 220, 2223
culture 9, 39 Tasik Kenyir 140 Tua Pek Kong Temple
The Straits Settlements 37, 389 Tasik Perdana (Kuala Lumpur) (Kuching) 156
See also Shophouses accommodation 275 Tua Pek Kong Temple (Kusu
Subang Jaya 301, 275 restaurants 301 Island) 237, 242
Sugud Islands Marine Conservation Tawau Hill State Park 193 Tua Pek Kong Temple (Miri) 168
Area 191 Tawau 193, 285 Tua Pek Kong Temple (Mukah) 166
Sukau 175 Taxes and refunds, in Singapore 247, Tua Pek Kong Temple (Sibu) 164
Sultan Abdul Samad Building 8, 249 Wat Chayamangkalaram 106
60, 62 Taxis 348, 351 Wat Machimmaram 148
Sultan Ibrahim Building (Johor Tea plantations Wat Phothivihan 148
Bahru) 129 Cameron Highlands 989 Wat Syam Nikrodharam
Sultan Mosque 226, 228 Frasers Hill 9, 91 Temple 111
Sultan of Brunei 172, 181 Telaga Tujuh Falls (Pulau Langkawi) Ten Courts of Hell (Haw Par
Sultan of Kedah 38 112, 115 Villa) 242
Tenom 181 Traveling by road 3489 Vishnu, Hindu god 230, 231
Terengganu 10, 41, 133 Treaty of Pangkor 41 Visitor information 333, 335
Terengganu Marine Park (Pulau Trekking 324, 329 von Overbeck, Baron 41
Tenggol) l40, 281 Bako National Park 1623 Vuttisasara 229
Terengganu Stone 34 Bario Loop (Kelabit Highlands) 169
Terengganu Street (Chinatown, Bombalai Hill (Tawau Hill State
Singapore) 219 Park) 193 W
Textile 30 Endau-Rompin National Park 137 Walking 350
See also Batik, Ikat Forest Recreation Park (Teluk See also Trails, Trekking
Thaipusam festival 29, 50, 217, Bahang) 109 Wallace, Alfred 154
200, 230 Frasers Hill, 9, 91 Wang Kang festival 156
Batu Caves 90 Gunning Api (Mulu National Park) Wang, Kai Zang Shen 222
Sri Maha Mariamman Temple 64 170, 325 Warren, Stanley 243
Sri Mariamman Temple Gunung Kinabalu 174, 175, 176, Wat Chayamangkalaram 106
(Georgetown) 103 184, 1867, 3245 Wat Machimmaram 148
Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple Gunung Mulu (Mulu National Park) Wat Phothivihan 148
(Singapore) 23031 11, 170, 171, 324, 325 Wayang kulitt (shadow puppet plays)
Thean Hou Temple 59, 67 Gunung Murud (Kelabit 49, 147, 316, 319, 321
Theravada Buddhism 25, 106, 107, Highlands) 169 Wayang seee Chinese opera
111, 148 Gunung Tahan 138, 325 Weld Quay Clan Piers (Georgetown)
Thian Hock Keng Temple 200, Maxwell Hill 95 100
220, 2223 Mount Santubong Summit Trek 158 Wet World Water Park (Shah Alam )
Thimithi festival 201 Mulu National Park 151, 17071, 76, 321
Sri Mariamman Temple 324, 325 Wheelcock Place (Orchard Road) 232
(Singapore) 218 Penang Hill 107 White Rajahs 40, 151, 157
Thompson, Jim 92 Santubong Jungle Trek 158 Whitehead, John 187
Time 333 Taman Negara 138, 139, 325 White-Tip AAvenue (Pulau
Tin mining 41, 87, 95 See also Trails, Outdoor activities Sipadan) 195
Tingkayu (Pulau Bohey Dulang) 192 Tropical fruits 295 White-water rafting 327, 329
Tip of Borneo 183 Tropical Spice Garden (Batu Padas 11, 175, 176, 181, 327
Titiwangsa Lake Gardens 72 Ferringhi) 108 Kampar 327
Titiwangsa Mountain Range 90, 91, Tuak (rice wine) 293 Sungkei 327
110, 133 Tumpat 148, 149 See also Outdoor activities
Tomb of Mahsuri (Pulau Langkawi) Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park Wildlife viewing 328, 329
113, 114 11, 179 Danum Valley 175, 177, 192
Top-spinning 49, 74 Turkish Iznik tiles (Islamic Arts Gomantang Caves 191
Trails Museum) 69 Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary
Bukit Tupai Trail (Kinabalu Turtle Cavern (Pulau Sipadan) 194 11, 191
National Park) 184 Turtle Island National Park 11, 55, Klias Wetlands 180
Gunung Gading Trail (Gunung 19091 Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation
Gading National Park) 161 Turtle Patch (Pulau Sipadan)195 Center 11, 190
Headhunters Trail (Mulu National Tze, Cheong Fatt 105 Tabin Wildlife Reserve 192
Park) 171 Turtle Island National Park 190
Lintang Trail (Bako National See also Bats, Fauna, Flora,
Park) 162 U National Parks and Reserves
Mesilau trail (Kinabalu National Ugly Sisters Peak (Kinabalu National Williams, Austin Podmore 221
Park) 187 Park) 187 Wind Cave and Fairy Cave 161
Pitcher trail (Kubah National Park Underwater World (Sentosa) 244 Windsurfing 140
and Matang Wildlife Center) 159 Underwater World Aquarium (Pulau Wisma Atria (Orchard Road) 232,
Rayu trail (Kubah National Park Langkawi) 115 246, 249
and Matang Wildlife Center) 159 Unfederated Malay States 41 Wood carving 31, 317
Selansur Trail (Similajau National United Malays National Organisation Woolner, Thomas 210
Park) 166 (UMNO) 43 World Harvest festival 51
Silau Silau Trail (Kinabalu National United Netherlands Chartered World War II 42
Park) 184 Company (VOC) 36 Worldwide Fund for Nature 49
Summit trail (Gunung Kinabalu) 186 Universiti Sains Malaysia Museum and Wreck diving 181, 326
Tajor Trail (Bako National Art Gallery 109
Park) 163 UOB (Singapore) 221
Tekek-Juara Hiking Trail (Pulau UOB Plaza (Raffles Place) 221 Y
Tioman) 131 Ye Olde Smokehouse (Cameron
Teluk Delima Trail (Bako National Highlands) 92
Park) 162 V Yeoh Jetty (Weld Quay Clan Piers) 100
See also Trekking Vanda Miss Joaquim 217 Yeun-Peng McNeice Bromeliad
Train travel 342, 346, 347 Venezia restaurant (Singapore) 231 Collection (Singapore Botanic
Eastern and Oriental Express 346, Vesak Day, Singapore 200 Gardens) 237, 241
express trains 345 Vesak festival 51 Yew, Lee Kuan 43, 45, 198
Jungle Railway 146, 346 Victoria Memorial Clocktower Yuan, Qu 51, 200
Light Rail Transit in Malaysia 250 (Georgetown) 100
local trains 346 Victoria Theater and Concert
Metro system in Singapore 350 Hall 208, 210, 211 Z
railroad network 346, 347 Victorian Chinese Weekly Zapin 23
reservation 346 Entertainment Club ((Ann Siang Zeng He 35
tickets and fares 346 Hill) 220
Travel and health insurance 337 Viewpoint Trail (Similajau National
Travel information 34251 Park) 166
Travelers checks 247, 338 VIP Orchid Garden (Singapore
Travelers with children 271 Botanic Gardens) 237, 240
Travelers with special needs 271 Visas 332
A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S 363
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the Design and Editorial
many people whose help and assistance Publisher Douglas Amrine
contributed to the preparation of this book. List Manager Lucinda Smith
Managing Art Editorr Jane Ewart,
Contributors Managing Editorr Kathryn Lane
David Bowden is an Australian expatriate Project Editor Ros Walford
who has worked in Asia for over a decade. Senior Art Editorr Paul Jackson
He now calls Malaysia home and writes and Project Art Editorr Sonal Bhatt
photographs for some of the leading Jacket Designerr Tessa Bindloss
national and regional newspapers and Senior Cartographic Editorr Casper Morris
magazines. DTP Designerss Jenn Hadley,
Natasha Lu
Production Controller Inderjit Bhullar
Ron Emmons is a British writer and
photographer who has lived in Thailand
since the 1990s. He is author of the Design and Editorial Assistance
DK Top 10 Travel Guide to Bangkok. Alexandra Farrell, Jacky Jackson,
Helen Townsend
Andrew Forbes has lived in Chiang Mai,
Thailand for the past 20 years, where he Additional Picture Research
is editor of CPA
PA Media. He has visited Rachel Barber, Ellen Root
Malaysia regularly over three decades and
has contributed to the DK Eyewitness Travel
Additional Cartography
Guide to Vietnam and Angkor Wat.
Base mapping for Kuala Lumpur
derived from Netmaps.
Naiya Sivaraj has been a traveler and
writer for as long as she can remember,
and has recently started to make a living Additional Photography
by combining the two. She is currently Irv Beckman, Simon Bracken, Gerard
pursuing a journalism program at UCLA. Brown, Andy Crawford, Peter Chen,
Frank Greenaway, Benu Joshi, Barnabas
Richard Watkins was born in Wales and Kindersley, Dave King, Colin Koh,
is a freelance travel writer. He has written Lawrence Lim, Ian OLeary, Lloyd Park,
for a number of publications including Brian Pitkin.
various newspapers and magazines in
UK, USA, and Australia. Special Assistance
Many thanks for the invaluable help of
History Consultant the following individuals:
Nicholas White is Reader in Imperial
and Commonwealth History at Liverpool
Jo Chua, Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum;
John Moores University, UK.
Asma Adnan and Mohamad Redza, Islamic
He has written a number of books and
Arts Museum; Rohaya Juli, Money Museum;
articles on Malaysian history including
Noredah Othman, Sabah Tourism Board;
(with J.M. Barwise) A Travellers History
Letitia Samuel, Sarawak Tourism Board;
of South East Asia, published by
Serene Lim Si Si, Singapore Tourism Board;
Windrush/Cassell, 2002.
S. T. Ramish, Tourism Malaysia.
Phrasebook Writer
E. Ulrich Kratz Photography Permissions
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank
Fact Checkers the following for their assistance and
Erik Fearn, Angelia Teo permission to photograph at their
establishments:
Proofreaders
Shonali Yadav, Stewart J. Wild Islamic Art Museum; Kompleks Budaya
Kraf; National Art Gallery; National History
Indexer Museum; Penang Museum and Art Gallery;
Jyoti Dhar Royal Museum.
364 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S
Picture Credits Rob WWalls 20crb, 36bc; Maximilian Weinzierl

W
Placement Key: t=top; tc=top center; tr=top right; 245bl; Terry Whittaker 17tr; David WWootton 21cra;
cla=center left above; ca=center above; Tengku Mohd Yusof 316cr; ANDYLIM CREATIVE
A :
cra=center right above; cl=center left; c=center; 131br; THE ASEAN SECRETA A : 44clb;
T RIAT
cr=center right; clb=center left below; cb=center ASIAEXPLORERS.COM: Timothy Tye 33c, 33bl, 339ftr,
below; crb=center right below; bl=bottom left; 339cr; TIMOTHYY AUGER: 217c.
bc=bottom center; br=bottom right; ftl=far top
left; ftr=far top right; fcla=far center left above; BABA-NONYAY HERITA
T GE MUSEUM: Jo Chua 126clb,
fcra=far center right above; fcl=far center left; 126br, 127ca, 127bl; BERJAY
AYA CORPORARATION BERHAD:
fcr=far center right; fclb=far center left below; 344c; BES STOCK: Alain Evrard 330-1; THE
fcrb=far center right below; fbl=far bottom left; BRIDGEMAN ART LIBRA
R RY: Drum, Dong Son style,
fbr=far bottom right. 2nd-1st century BC (bronze) (see also 232894),
Vietnamese School/Musee Guimet, Paris, France,
Every effort has been made to trace the Lauros/Giraudon 33br, Sloane 197, ff.381v-382r:
copyright holders, and we apologize in advance Plan of the city of Malacca, c.1511 (pen & ink
for any unintentional omissions. W
We would be with w/c), Barretti de Resende, Pedro (16th
pleased to insert the appropriate acknowledg- Century)/British Library, London, UK, British
ments in any subsequent edition of this Library Board. All Rights Reserved 35tr, The port
publication. and town of Malacca, Malaysia, illustration from
Le Costume Ancien et Moderne by Giulio
Works of art have been reproduced with the
W Ferrario, published c.1820s-30s (coloured
kind permission of the following copyright engraving), Zancon, Gaetano (1771-1816)/Private
holders: Homage to Newton, 1985 Kingdom of Collection, The Stapleton Collection 37crb, Sir
Spain, Gala Salvador Dali Foundation, DACS, Thomas Stamford Raffles (1781-1826), Lonsdale,
London 2008 221c. James (1777-1839)/London Zoological Society,
UKK 38bl, Borneo: Signing of the T Treaty for
The Merlion symbol has been used with the cession of Labuan, 1846/British Library, London,
kind permission of the Singapore Tourism UK, British Library Board. All Rights Reserved
Board (Reference Number STB/J6/07) 204clb. 40bc; BRUNEI TOURISM: 55tr, 152tr, 172cla, 172cl,
172bc, 173tl, 173br.
The publishers would like to thank the following
individuals, companies, and picture libraries for ADRIAN CHEAH: 317cb; CORBIS: 18cla, 331c; Atlantide
their kind permission to reproduce their Phototravel 105cr; Bettmann 44t; Tom Brakefield
photographs: 151b; EPA/Ahmad Yusni 28bl,/Pool/Saeed Khan
45bl; Macduff Everton 9b, 202; Eye Ubiquitous
ALAMY: 1Apix 326br; 2d Alan King 47c; AndyLim. 112cla; Free Agents Limited 199tr; Michael
com 186cl; Banana Pancake 187tl; Robert E. Freeman 31c, 35bl; Farrell Grehan 4br, 135cr;
Barber 18bl; Bare Essence Photography 77tr; Peter Guttman 21br; Hamish Park 50cr; Chris
Beaconstox 322tl; Brandon Cole Marine Hellier 22br, 162bl, 163br; Dave G. Houser 318tr;
Photography 326bl; Bruce Coleman Inc. 17bl; Rob Howard 21cla, 327tl; Hulton-Deutsch
Comstock Images 18-19c, 195bl; David Noton Collection 20cra, 42bl, 43bc; Image Source 138bc;
Photography 72tr, 294cla; Dbimages 10bl; So Hing-Keung 28-29c; Earl & Nazima Kowall
Reinhard Dirscherl 19tr, 326cr; Elvele Images 20br, 113bc, 316bl; Bob Krist 59br; Frans Lanting
12cl; Espixx 292bl; David Fleetham 18clb; Simon 180bl; Charles & Josette Lenars 30cl, 295tl; Yang
Grosset 214cl; Kim Haughton 86; Hemis 21clb; Liu 317c; Viviane Moos 20cl; Christine Osborne
Henry WWestheim Photography 5tr, 112clb; Jack 316clb; Neil Rabinowitz 54cla, 87b; Robert
Hobhouse 54tr; David Hosking 16bc; Iconotec Harding WWorld Imagery/Louise Murray 170bl; Joel
141t; Images&Stories 153br; Jon Arnold Images W. Rogers 162cl; Schlegelmilch 50bl; Shamshahrin
147cr; Jo Kearney 26cl; Jenny Matthews 218br; Shamsudin 73b; Paul Souders 45tr; Stapleton
Neil McAllister 60tr, 345cr; Chris McLennan Collection 32; Luca I. Tettoni 34bl; Nik Wheeler
297cla; Michele Molinari 186tr; David Moore 17cl, 21c, 318bl; Lawson W Wood 177tr, 194clb;
113cra; Roger Munns 18tl; nagelestock.com 11tr; Michael S. Yamashita 55tl; Zefa/Herbert Kehrer
Nic Cleave Photography 113crb; North Wind 169c,/Hugh Sitton 144-5,/Photex/Berverly Factor
Picture Archives 34bc; Picture Contact 9tr, 11bc; 18br; CPA
P MEDIA: 34tr, 34c, 36crb, 38tr, 38cla, 38-
Sergio Pitamitz 17cr; WWolfgang Plzer 326cla; 9c, 38br, 39tl, 39crb, 39bl, 39br, 40t, 40c, 41tr,
Robert Harding Picture Library Ltd 21tr, 61tl, 41bl, 41bc, 42tl, 42c, 42br, 43t, 65bl; David
105bc, 178t; Scenics & Science 61cra; Neil Henley 22tr, 111br; COURTESY OF THE THAI SILK
Setchfield 62t, 125bl; Slick Shoots 234tr; Nick COMPA
P NY 92bl.
Simon 28tr; Stephen Frink Collection 18tr, 19tl,
19crb; Steve Allen TTravel Photography 226clb; DEWA
W N FILHARMONIK PETRONAS, KUALA LUMPURR CITY
Laurie Strachan 295c, 296cla; Terry Fincher.Photo CENTRE, MALAY
A SIA: 321br; DK IMAGES: FSTOP Pte.
Int 173cb; Ozil Thierry 10tr, 51b; Tribaleye
T Ltd., Singapore 203cl, 242br, 243cla, 243cb, 338ca,
Images/ J Marshall 317tr; Carlos Villoch 326bc; 342tc, 346br, 350tr, 351bc.
A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S 365
FLPA
P : Minden Pictures/Frans Lanting 46-7,185br; Photononstop/Maurice Smith 171br, Robert
FOREST RESEARCH INSTITUTE MALAY
A SIA: 76cb. Harding Picture Library Ltd/ Richard Ashworth
30clb; Photo Researchers, Inc 245cra; PHOTOSHOT:
GENTING THEME PARK: 320br; GETTY IMAGES: NHPA/Gerald Cubitt 16cb,/John Shaw 17tc;/World
W
Photographers Choice/Guy Vanderelst 196-7; Pictures/Eur 76tl.
Robert Harding WWorld Imagery/John Miller 8bl;
Stone/Paul Chesley 20bl; The Image Bank 2-3; RABANI: 182b; REUTERS: Zainal Abd Halim 1c, 21cb;
THE GRA R COLLECTION, NEW YORK: 7c, 36tc, 37tl,
R NGER Jason Lee 28br; Bazuki Muhammad 23crb, 53cr;
37bl, 37bc, 39cra, 40br, 157cb, 197c, 221tr, 269c. Stringer Malaysia 23bc; ROBERT HARDING PICTURE
R RY: Reinhard D 194tr, 195crb; Robert Francis
LIBRA
HILTON KUCHING HOTEL: 293tr; ERIC HUNT: 185bl. 184cl; Gavin Hellier 5cl, 25c; John Miller 88bl,
89cr; Louise Murray 194bc.
INTERCONTINENTA
T L HOTELS GROUP: 270br; ISLAMIC ARTS
MUSEUM MALAYA SIA: 4tr, 68tl, 68cla, 68clb, 69tl, 69cra, SABAH TOURISM BOARD: 181br, 184bl, 270cl; RADIN
69cb, 69bc. MOHD NOH SALEH: 26crb, 30bl, 30br, 143tc, 143cla,
143clb, 143cr, 143crb, 176bl; SARARAWAK FORESTRY:
JUDITH MILLER: Sloan 317cl. 163cr; SARA
RAWAK TOURISM BOARD: 51c, 55br, 157tr,
160c, 167c, 167bl, 190tr, 271tl, 292c, 322c, 324br,
LONELY PLANET IMAGES: Mark Daffey 170cl, 185tl; 326cl, 327br, 328br, 334tl, 335tl; SENTOSA ISLAND:
Richard LAnson 227bc; Phil W
Weymouth 227tl. 244tr, 245tl; SEPILOK RESORT: 271bc; SINGAPORE ART
MUSEUM: 213bc; SINGAPORE TOURISM BOARD: 26tr,
MARY EVA
V NS PICTURE LIBRA
R RY: 41crb; MASTERFILE: Mark 199bc, 200cl, 201tr, 201bl; SUPERSTOCK: age
Downey 154cl, 324cl; John Foster 163tc; R. Ian fotostock 48bl; Murat Ayranci 56.
Lloyd 8cr, 29tr, 44br, 49br, 54bl, 134bl, 172tr,
200bc; Brad WWrobleski 174; MONEY MUSEUM & ART TOURISM MALAY
A SIA: 17bc, 19bl, 19br, 29c, 29bl,
CENTRE OF BANK NEGARA R MALAYA SIA: 35bc, 39tc, 39ca. 29br, 30-1c, 31tl, 31tc, 31cr, 31bl, 31br, 45br,
48c, 50tc, 51tr, 52c, 53bl, 60br, 73tc, 77br, 91tl,
NATION
A AL AERONAUTICS AND SPAC
P E ADMINISTRARATION: 14cl; 96c, 143bl, 150, 159cra, 171tl, 314tc, 316cl,
NATION
A AL ARCHIVES OF MALAY
A SIA: 187tr; NATION
A AL 316cra, 317tl, 317cra, 319cr, 320tc, 321tr, 322br,
R PHIC IMAGE COLLECTION: Tim Laman 49t,
GEOGRA 325br, 332tc, 332cl.
194cla; NATUR
A RAL VISIONS: Brian Rogers 186clb;
NATUREPL
A .COM: Doug Perrine 17crb; NEGERI SEMBILAN VIRTUAL MALAY
A SIA: 341tc.
TOURISM ACTION COUNCIL: Zainal Abidin Abu Samah
121crb, 121bl, 121br. WIKIPEDIA, THE FREE ENCYCLOPEDIA: 225tc; JOEYY CE
WONG: 138cla.
ORIENT-EXPRESS HOTELS TRA
R INS & CRUISES: 342br.
Front Endpaper: ALAMY: Kim Haughton fcla;
PHOTOBANK: 206; PHOTOGRA R PHERS DIRECT: 42 Degrees CORBIS: Macduff Everton cr; MASTERFILE: Brad
South 35clb; Bare Essence Photography/Chan Tze Wrobleski ftr; PHOTOLIBRA
W R RY: Digital Vision tc;
Leong 54br; Graham Simmons 226tr; Tengku SUPERSTOCK: Murat Ayranci cl; TOURISM MALAYA SIA: cra.
Mohd Yusof Photography 23br; PHOTOLIBRA R RY:
Corbis Corporation 195cra; Digital Vision 132, Back Endpaper: KL MONORA
R IL SYSTEM SDN BHD.
268-269; Earth Scenes/Animals Animals/James J
Stachecki 20tr; David B Fleetham 188-189; Staub Jacket images: Front: ALAMY IMAGES: Eye
Frank 133b; Index Stock Imagery/Clineff Kindra Ubiquitous / Paul Seheult c; James Davis
28cla,/Walter
W Bibikow 30tr; Jon Arnold Images/ Photography / James Davis clb. Back: ALAMY
Walter Bibikow 27cra; Jtb Photo Communications
W IMAGES: Reinhard Dirscherl cla; Neil McAllister bl;
Inc 27bl, 112tr, 227cr, 244cl, 315bl, 316tr; David CORBIS: Jose Fuste Raga clb; DK IMAGES: tl. Spine:
Kirkland 175b; Pacific Stock/Perrine Doug 195tl; ALAMY IMAGES: Eye Ubiquitous / Paul Seheult t;
Photodisc/Emma Lee/Life File 98-99; CORBIS: Zefa / Hugh Sitton b.
SPECIAL EDITIONS OF DK TRAVEL GUIDES

DK Travel
T Guides can be purchased in To find out more, please contact:
bulk quantities at discounted prices for (in the United States) SpecialSales@dk.com
use in promotions or as premiums.
(in the UK)
K Sarah.Burgess@dk.com
We are also able to offer special editions
W
and personalized jackets, corporate (in Canada) DK Special Sales at general@
imprints, and excerpts from all of our tourmaline.ca
books, tailored specifically to meet (in Australia)
your own needs. business.development@pearson.com.au
366 P H R A S E B O O K
Phrase Book
Malay belongs to the Austronesian family of and Brunei agreed on a standard form of
languages whose several hundred distinct vari- spelling. Prior to the 19th century, international
ations cover the Indian and Pacific oceans. It trade and relations would have been
is the national language of Malaysia, Brunei, unthinkable without the use of Malay, but
and Singapore, and for many centuries has after 1800, large-scale immigration from China
been the language of learning, diplomacy, and and India resulted in the widespread use of
commerce in this region. One of its earliest Chinese and Tamil in Malaysia. Today, English
scripts, a modified Perso-Arabic script called is widely spoken, mostly in urban centers, but
Jawi, was the means by which Islam was any effort made by visitors to speak Malay
disseminated. Jawi is still widely used in is usually appreciated, particularly in more
Brunei today. Elsewhere, it has been replaced remote parts of the country. Malay, whose
by the Latin script Rumi, which was not official name is Bahasa Melayu, is often incor- r
spelled uniformly until Malaysia, Indonesia, rectly called Bahasa, which means language.
Malay Pronounciation Guide o as in morning

or as in stop
There are no strong stresses in the Malay u as in boot
language and most letters are pronounced or as in good
in the same way as English. As a general ai as in ice
i
rule, beginners are advised to stress the or as two separate
penultimate syllable. However, if this sounds, as in Hawaii
syllable contains a mute e, the stress moves au as in out
to the final syllable. or as two separate
sounds, as in ba-ut
a as in father c in between tube and choose
or as in the j in between duee and June
or as in but k as English k except in a final
e like the a in machine letter, when it becomes a glottal
when unstressed; stop (brief pause)
or as in bell when stressed ng as in singer
i as in taxi ngg as in longer
or as in April
i ny as in innuendo
In an emergency Communication Now Sekarang/Segera

What? Apa?
Help! Tolong!
essentials When? Bila?
Stop! Berhentilah! Yes Saya Which one? Yang mana?
Call a doctor! Panggil doktor! No Bukan/Tidak Who? Siapa?
Call an Panggil Hello Helo Why? Mengapa?
ambulance! ambulans! Goodbye Selamat jalan
Police! Polis! Excuse me/
Fire! Api! apologies Minta maaf
Where is the Di mana Please Tolong/silahkan
Useful phrases
nearest telefon Thank you Terima kasih Do you speak Apakah
telephone? yang terdekat? You are English? berbahasa
Where is the Di mana welcome. Kembali. Inggeris?
nearest hospital yang Good morning Selamat pagi I dont speak Saya belum
hospital? terdekat? Good afternoonSelamat petang Malay. berbahasa
I am lost! Saya sesat! Good evening Selamat malam Melayu.
Do you need Awak perlukan Good night Selamat hari I dont Saya kurang
help? pertolongan? How are you? Apa khabar? understand. faham.
Ive been Saya Madam Puan I/we want to... Saya/kami mahu...
robbed! dirompak! Sir Encik (Ci) What is your Siapakah
Go away! Pergi! Today hari Ini name? nama?
Ive had an Saya terlibat Tomorrow Esok My name is Nama saya
an accident. dalam Yesterday Kelmarin Where is...? Di mana...?
kemalangan. Later Esok/Nanti Is it close by? Sudah dekat?
P H R A S E B O O K 367
Is it far away? Masih jauh? How many/ Berapa doctor dokter

Could you Minta perlahan much is it? harganya? faint pingsan
please speak sedikit? Do you accept Credit card fever panas (badan)
drive/walk credit cards? boleh? high tinggi
slower? This is too Ini terlalu low rendah
How do I Untuk ke expensive. mahal. medicine ubat
get to? sebaiknya saya buy beli nurse perawat
naik apa? cheap murah pain/ill sakit
Are children Adakah kanak- clothes pakaian painkillers ubat penghilang
allowed? kanak dibenerkan expensive mahal kesakitan
masuk? market pasar/tamu pregnant hamil
I like... Saya suka... price harga sanitary
I dont like... Saya tidak suka... sale jualan (murah) napkins tuala wanita
sell jual
shoes kasut
shop kedai
Useful words supermarket pasar raya Transport
address alamat I would like to Saya mahu
Attention! Awas! reserve a tempahkan
bad buruk seat. tempat duduk.
Nature and
big besar Would you tell Tolong
clean bersih
sightseeing me when to beritahukan,
closed tutup bay teluk get off? bila sudah
cold sejuk beach pantai sampai?
dirty kotor cape/ tanjung How long Berapa lama
door pintu promontory does it take untuk ke?
empty kosong estuary/town kuala to get to...?
enough cukup hill bukit Which bus Bas mana
entrance masuk information penerangan goes to? yang ke?
exit keluar island pulau Where do I Di mana
full penuh lake tasik pay? tempat
good baik mosque masjid membayar?
hot panas mountain gunung I need a Kami memerlukan
less kurang paddy field sawah mechanic. mekanik.
more lebih palace istana/astana I have a Tayarnya
pull dorong park taman flat tire. kempis.
push tolak river sungai/batang aeroplane kapal terbang
open buka square padang boat perahu
quick cepat strait selat bus bas
slow perlahan temple/shrine kuil bus stop stesen bas
small kecil tourist pejabat car kereta
stairs tangga travel agency agensi car baby seat tempat duduk
pelancongan customs cukai
village kampung cycle naik baisikal
petrol minyak/petrol
Banks
return (trip) (perjalanan) pergi
Is there an Ada ATM? balik
Colors
A
ATM? seat bayi
I want to Saya mau black hitam single/one tiket sehala
change tukar dollars/ blue biru way (ticket) pergi balik
dollars/ pounds... green hijau taxi teksi
pounds...into menjadi ringgit red merah timetable jadual waktu
Malay ringgit. Malaysia. white putih train kereta api
money wang/duit yellow kuning
change wang kecil
change money tukar wang
exchange rate kadar pertukaran
Directions
travelers cek
Health
here di sini
checks kembara antiseptic antiseptik there di sana
blood pressure tekanan darah in (di) dalam
condom kondom from (where) dari (mana)
contaceptive kontraseptif/ left kiri
Shopping
pencegah hamil right kanan
Do you have...? Apakah ada...? dentist dokter gigi straight on jalan terus
Can I have...? Minta...? diarrhea diarea/cirit-birit in front of di hadapan
368 P H R A S E B O O K
behind di belakang restaurant restoran 9.31 in the pukul sepuluh

at the corner di simpang seafood makanan laut evening/ kurang dua
near dekat snack makanan kecil at night puluh menit
far juah spoon senduk malam
to ke vegetable sayur Monday hari Isnin
north utara Tuesday hari Selasa
south selatan Wednesday hari Arba
east timur Thursday
Menu decoder hari Khamis
west barat Friday hari Jumaat
northeast timur laut asam sour Saturday hari Sabtu
northwest barat laut ayam chicken Sunday hari Ahad/
southeast tenggara ayer panas hot water Minggu
southwest barat daya ayer sejuk cold water
ayer teh tea
buah-buahan fruit
domba lamb Cardinal numbers
Staying in a hotel garam salt
1 satu
I have a Ada gula sugar
2 dua
reservation. tempahan. ikan fish
3 tiga
Do you have Ada jus juice
4 empat
a room? bilik? kelapa coconut
5 lima
What is the Berapa kopi coffee
6 enam
charge perr semalam? manis sweet
7 tujuh
night? mee noodle
8 delapan
I want a Saya minta merica pepper
9 sembilan
double/ bilik kelamin/ minuman drink
10 sepuluh
single room. bujang. nasi steamed rice
11 sebelas
I am/we are Saya/kami nak pedas spicy
12 dua belas
leaving today. mendaftar pedih bitter
13 tiga belas
kelaur hari ini. sapi beef
double 20 dua puluh
kelamin susu milk
single 21 dua puluh satu
bujang telur eggs
bed 22 dua puluh dua
katil/tempat tidur udang prawn/shrimp
key kunci 30 tiga puluh
lights lampu 40 empat puluh
bathroom bilik mandi 50 lima puluh
toilet tandas Time and day 60 enam puluh
soap sabun 70 tujuh puluh
clock jam
towel tuala 80 delapan puluh
minute menit
Open Buka 90 sembilan puluh
quarter hour suku
Closed Tutup 100 seratus
second detik
Emergency Pintu 1,000 seribu
watch jam tangan
exit kesemasan 2,000 dua ribu
hour pukul
10,000 sepuluh ribu
day hari
week minggu
20,000 dua puluh ribu
month bulan
100,000 seratus ribu
Eating out 200,000 dua ratus ribu
year tahun
A table please. Minta meja untuk. morning pagi hari
May I see the Minta daftar noon tengah hari
menu? makan? midday siang hari Ordinal numbers
I would like to Saya mau afternoon sore hari
order now. pesan sekarang. evening/night malam hari
1st pertama
I am Saya What is the Sudah pukul

2nd kedua
vegetarian. vegetarian. time please? berapa?
3rd ketiga
I dont eat... Saya tidak makan... 11.19 in the pukul sebelas 4th keempat
The bill, please.Minta bil. morning lewat sembilan 5th kelima
breakfast makan pagi belas menit pagi 6th keenam
childrens menu 1 oclock pukul satu 7th ketujuh
menu kanak-kanak 1.15 in the pukul satu 8th kedelapan
dinner makan malam early afternoon lewat suku 9th kesembilan
fork garpu (midday) siang 10th kesepuluh
glass kaca mata 3.45 in the pukul empat 11th kesebelas
highchair kerusi tinggi afternoon kurang suku 12th kedua belas
knife pisau sore 20th kedua puluh
lunch makan tengah hari 6.30 in the pukul enam 100th keseratus
meat daging early evening setengah sore 1000th keseribu
KUALA LUMPUR INTEGRATED RAIL NETWORK
3BXBOH 5FSNJOBM1VUSB
5BNBO.FMBUJ
4FOUVM5JNVS 8BOHTB.BKV
,VBOH
4SJ3BNQBJ
4VOHBJ#VMPI
4FUJBXBOHTB
4FOUVM
5JUJXBOHTB
,FQPOH +FMBUFL
%BUP,FSBNBU
4FHBNCVU
%BNBJ
$IPX,JU "NQBOH
185$
"NQBOH1BSL
1VUSB ,-$$
.FEBO $BIBZB
5VBOLV ,BNQVOH#BSV
4VMUBO $FNQBLB
*TNBJM
%BOH8BOHJ #VLJU/BOBT
3BKB$IVMBO 1BEBO*OEBI
#BOEBSBZB #VLJU
#BOL/FHBSB 1BEBO+BZB
#JOUBOH
1MB[B $IBO .BMVSJ

*NCJ
3BLZBU 1VEV 4PX-JO
.BTKJE
+BNFL
)BOH5VBI .JIBSKB
,VBMB-VNQVS
3BJMXBZ4UBUJPO 5VO4BNCBOUIBO
.BIBSBKBMFMB
4UFTFO4FOUSBM 4FQVUFI $IFSBT
#BOHTBS
"CEVMMBI)VLVN "OHLBTBQVSJ 4BMBL4PVUI
4BMBL4PVUI
,FSJODIJ 1BOUBJ%BMBN
6OJWFSTJUJ #BOEBS5VO3B[BL
5BNBO+BZB 1FUBMJOH
"TJB+BZB +BMBO5FNQMFS 5BTJL4FMBUBO
,FMBOB+BZB 4FSEBOH
,BNQVOH%BUP)BSVO
5BNBO1BSBNPVOU 4VOHBJ ,BKBOH
5BNBO #FTJ
4FSJ4FUJB
#BIBHJB 6,.
#VLJU+BMJM
4FUJB+BZB
#BOHJ
4VCBOH+BZB 4SJ1FUBMJOH
#BUBOH#FOBS
#BUV5JHB
1VUSB+BZB
4IBI"MBN /JMBJ
1BEBOH+BXB
#VLJU#BEBL -BCV
4BMBL5JOHHJ
,MBOH
5FMVL1VMBJ 5JSPJ
1PSU
,MBOH 5FMVL(BEPOH
,BNQVOH3BKB6EB ,-*OUFSOBUJPOBM 4FSFNCBO
"JSQPSU
+BMBO,BTUBN
KEY
KTM Komuter
RawangSeremban Line GETTING AROUND
Kuala Lumpur is served by an efficient network of Light Rail
KTM Komuter
SentulPort Klang Line Transit (LRT) and monorail lines. For visitors, the most useful
LRT routes are the Ampang and Sri Petaling lines, linking Plaza
Rapid KLs Putra LRT Rakyat with Puduraya Bus Station, Masjid Jamek with Merdeka
Kelana Jaya Line
Square, and Bandaraya with Little India. KLCC is on the Kelana
Rapid KLs Star LRT Jaya line. The LRT operator, Rapid KL, also runs bus services,
Ampang Line and a combined one-day pass for the LRT and bus is available.
Rapid KLs Star LRT The separately run KL Monorail is useful for exploring Chinatown
Sri Petaling Line and the Golden Triangle. However, very few interchange stations
are connected and often new tickets have to be purchased to
Express Rail Link
KLIA Transit/KLIA Express continue the journey. All trains run from 6am to midnight, but
services are less frequent on weekends.
KL Monorail
Interchange station
KL Monorail
es, Light Rail Transit (LRT),
LRT lines feed into the
hSouth line from Jurong
and Changi airport to
Dhoby Ghaut for National
ecision every five minutes
available at station
Stored value cards can
em.
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Eyewitness Travel Guides are marvels of writing,
color photography, and illustration
New York
Y Times Syndicate
PACKED WITH PHOTOGRAPHS,

P
ILLUSTRATIONS, AND MAPS

THE FLAVORS OF MALAYSIA LOCAL
PRODUCE AND EXOTIC DISHES

INDEPTH COVERAGE OF WHAT TO
DO AND WHERE TO SHOP IN
SINGAPORE

HUGE SELECTION OF HOTELS
AND RESTAURANTS

SIGHTS, BEACHES, MARKETS, AND
FESTIVALS LISTED TOWN BY
Y TOWN

MAPS OF MALAYSIAS NATIONAL
PARKS AND ISLANDS
and enlightening
Like a Michelangelo fresco: Chicago Tribune
T
deliriously rich in detail
People Magazine
PRINTED IN CHINA
Discover more at
traveldk.com
THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT

OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU

Malaysia and Singapore (EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDE) by Andrew Forbes, Et Al (DK, 2010)

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Malaysia and Singapore (EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDE) by Andrew Forbes, Et Al (DK, 2010)

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

RAIN FORESTS BEACHES

MANAGING EDITOR Aruna Ghose

The information in this

Entrance to Batu Caves, the largest cave temple in Malaysia

THE COLONIAL COR

DISCOVERING MALAYSIA AND

DISCOVERING MALAYSIA AND

citys colonial past, Kuala

Detail from Nikhrodharam Thai T

islands luxury resorts and

White-sand beach framed by forested hills on Pulau Langkawi

EASTERN AND CENTRAL

This regions appeal lies in

Malaysia on the Map ,VBMB

north and connected to Singapore J b

Satellite view of Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo

ALAYSIAN BORNEO 1BOUJOH

Putting Malaysian Borneo on the Map

Astronauts photograph of Gaya Bay, Kota Kinabalu

a Domestic airport 0 miles 25

Landscape and Wildlife

RAIN FORESTS LIMESTONE OUTCROPS

Cave swiftlets are

MALAY A SIAS ENDANGERED SPECIES

COASTAL PLAINS OFFSHORE ISLANDS

Mangroves are trees Dugongs take their

Fiddler crabs are critical to the

Sea anemones, named for a species of garden flower,

Mandarin fish live camouflaged in broken coral

Sea horses aree unusual

Lettuce coralis named for its green

Peoples of Malaysia and Singapore

INDIGENOUS PEOPLES OF MALAYSIA

The Rungus are an indigenous

The Bidayuh, or Land

The courtyard of a mosque is designed to accommodate

aret is a lofty tower usually

This crenellated arch

The Koran is the central Salat is the

Wuzu is the first step

The Jawi script is a Malay variant of Arabic

Hinduism and Buddhism

Devotees come Offerings may Hindu priests are

The Buddhas hair is generally

Elongated earlobes are

A simple monks robe

The cross-legged posture

STRAITS CHINESE Characteristic

TRADITIONAL MALAY HOUSE

The interiors are ventilated by many

Longhouses commonly have a

MINANGKABAU Wide eaves for protection Wooden shingles used in

The Raffles Hotel in Singapore dates

MODERN ARCHITECTURE The 1,483-ft (452-m) tall

Festivals of Malaysia and Singapore

CHINESE NEW YEAR

HARI RAYA PUASA

Muslim men start the day by congregating at mosques for

Kavadi carriers hold elaborately decorated metal

The Batu Caves (see p90), dedicated to Lord

Arts and Crafts of Malaysia

Ikat cloth is made

+-/ )"+* )64