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(Honda 2.4L)
Testing the fuel injectors on your Honda Accord, CRV or Element with a 2.4L
four cylinder engine is pretty easy. In this tutorial I'll show you how to
resistance test them with your multimeter.
Since it's rare for fuel injectors to go bad, and you might be in need of some
helpful diagnostic advice... I'll also offer a simple diagnostic strategy that will
help you to nail down the misfire or rough idle condition your Honda is
experiencing.
In the fuel injector resistance test in the previous page, I ask you to measure
all 4 fuel injectors' resistances... and you may be wondering if this is really
necessary especially if you only have one dead cylinder that's causing the
miss.
Well here are the reasons why:
1. The fuel injectors are easy to get to.
2. In this tutorial I don't provide you with a resistance specification of
the fuel injector (which isn't necessary when you're testing all 4
and comparing their values).
3. By testing all... you're making sure the Diagnostic Trouble Code
isn't lying to you about which one it says is bad (Diagnostic
Trouble Codes, after all, are not infallible).
4. I've been using this test with a lot of success, since the first multi-
port fuel injected vehicles where introduced and started giving the
world diagnostic headaches (yes... I'm old).
Well, hopefully this info helped... but what if you did test the fuel injectors and
found that all have similar resistance specs. What next? Let's jump into the
next subheading and I'll share some specific troubleshooting tips that will help.
My Easy Engine Miss Diagnostic Strategy
There's a good chance that you've already done a few tests and/or replaced a
few parts and your Honda still keeps missing (idling rough). I've been there
before... so in this section I want to share with you some of the experience
and knowledge I've gained over the past 20 years working as an automotive
diagnostic tech and tailored specifically to the Do-It-Yoursef'er like you.
The best news of all, is that there IS a logical step-by-step way of finding out if
the fuel injector (or anything else) is the one causing your engine to miss
(misfire, idle rough).
These are the steps I take:
1. Check for misfire codes.
Unfortunately, the PCM doesn't always set a specific
BAD fuel injector code, but when a fuel injector does go
BAD, you WILL see a Misfire Code.
2. The next step is to check for spark and thus eliminate the Ignition
System as the source of the problem.
I want to emphasize this to you: It's very important to
eliminate the Ignition System from the get-go.
What I'm looking for here... is to confirm that the spark
plug is getting spark and I do this with a dedicated
spark tester (like an HEI spark tester).
This article will help you to get to the bottom of any
ignition system problem: How to Test the Ignition COP
Coils (Honda 2.4L).
3. Next, I remove the spark plugs and visually inspect them.
What I'm checking for are for cracks and/or carbon
tracks and/or engine oil filling up the spark plug well.
Honda 2.4L engines have a BAD habit of leaking engine
oil onto the spark plugs and COP coil boot (from the
valve cover)... and this is a common cause of an
engine miss (misfire, rough idle).
4. If everything above checks out OK... I then do an engine
compression.
This is a fast and easy test... but is so often overlooked.
What I'm looking for is to see if any one cylinder is too
worn out. If it's too worn out...it will always have 15%
lower compression that the highest compression
reading of the four.
5. Check fuel injector resistance.
The purpose of all of the my tests (above) are to eliminate the ignition system
and engine mechanical condition first... before attempting to blame or suspect
a BAD fuel injector...
... And I can tell you that this diagnostic strategy has saved me from replacing
some good fuel injectors and being able to nail down the ones that are BAD.
step one, remove three nuts holding fuel rail on and pull off of mounts
step three, pull out injectors, you may be able to reuse the o rings, but if they are
even cracked replace.
step four inspect injector ports with a flash light to check for build up.
step five, spray injector inlet and nozzle with brake parts cleaner, agitate with
tooth brush to remove stuck on carbon and sludge, being careful you can even
use a tooth pick to scrape out tight spots, but i don't do this.
step six, let dry or blow off with compressed air, you can use a air duster that you
would use for a keyboard and such.
step seven, inspect nozzles and inlets clean again if needed, then dry agin.
step eight, if heavy build up in intake manifold clean that. PM me for directions.
step nine, place injector inlet nipple back into the fuel rail, making sure O ring
make seal on the inside and the rubber sleeve on the neck of the injector is
seated against fuel rail.
step 10, making sure the large bottom O ring is seated in the intake manifold
carefully place fuel rail back, adjusting injectors untill they are seated right, you
may have to use some force, which is why you place the delicte upper O ring in
first.
step eleven, tighten bolts and re connect purge line, and electrical connections.
step twelve, crank engine and let get to normal operating temperature check for
leaks, take for test drive and make sure there is no missfires or knocking.
while you are at it id change out your spark plugs and change the fuel filter.
the reason i advise to use brake parts cleaner is becuase it evaporates fast, if it
wont take the sludge off use maximum strenght throttle body cleaner, you can
also clean the spark plugs in the same manner.