KNITWARE MANUFACTURE & TECHNOLOGY

COURSE NAME : SPECIAL KNIT FABRIC & FINISHES

COURSE CODE : TEX-2101

ASSIGNMENT ON:
RELATION AMONG GSM,YARN COUNT,STITCH LENGTH & FABRIC
CONSTRUCTION

REPORT SUBMITTED TO
MAHBUBUL HAQUE
{LECTURER,BUFT}

Submission Date : 16th July 2014

 THIS REPORT IS PRESENTED BY THE GROUP OF

NAME & I.D. OF THE GROUP MEMBERS

SL NAME OF THE STUDENT IDENTITY NUMBER

NO.
1 S.M.NAZMUL ALAM 131-092-0-135

2 HASAN MAHAMMUD NAYEEM 131-083-0-135

3 SUBHA JUTI MAZUMDER 131-080-0-135

4 ZAHIDUL HAQUE MAZUMDER 131-079-0-135

5 ARJUN GHOSH 131-056-0-135

Introduction:
FABRIC:
Fabric is a manufactured assembly of fibres and yarns that has substantial surface
area inrelation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful
mechanicalstrength.Fabrics are most commonly woven or knitted.

Picture:Different types of fabrics

GSM & YARN COUNT OF A FABRIC:

The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a
textile engineer for understanding and production of fabric. GSM means Gram per
square meter that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. By this we
can compare the fabrics in unit area which is heavier and which is lighter.

Count is very important factor for the Textile Yarn Manufacturing. Maintaining the
yarn count is mandatory to retain the quality of a yarn and fabrics. According to the
Textile Institute Count is a number of indicating the mass per unit length or length
per unit mass of yarn. Generally Yarn Count is the weight per unit length of the yarn
of the length of per unit length.

We Select the correct Yarn count for specific fabric (such as-Double Lacoste) GSM by
the following process:
For Double Lacoste ,
Say, the require GSM is 220
Yarn count = (-0.167) X (GSM) + 64.36
= (-0.167) X (220) + 64.36
= -36.74 + 64.36
= 27.62
So, to knit 220 gsm Double Lacoste fabric we need yarn count 27.62/s

Picture:GSM vary with yarn count

Different types of fabric has different Yarn count.GSM & Yarn count are related with
each other.Changes of fabric GSM vary with yarn count.

In single jersey fabric :

If the yarn count is 30/s then the grey gsm will be 80% to 85% less from the finished GSM

If the yarn count is 26/s then the grey gsm will be 78% to 80% less from the finished GSM

If the yarn count is 24/s then the grey gsm will be 76% to 77% less from the finished GSM

If the yarn count is 20/s then the grey gsm will be 76% to 79% less from the finished GSM

In P/int fabric :
If the yarn count is 40/s then the grey gsm will be 72% less from the finished GSM
If the yarn count is 34/s then the grey gsm will be 72% less from the finished GSM
If the yarn count is 30/s then the grey gsm will be 74% less from the finished GSM
If the yarn count is 26/s then the grey gsm will be 72% less from the finished GSM
If the yarn count is 24/s then the grey gsm will be 72% less from the finished GSM

STITCH LENGTH OF A FABRIC:

The stitch length setting on your sewing machine allows to adjust the number of
stitches sewn per inch. Is the theoretically is as Stitch length is theoretically a single
length of yarn which includes one needle loop and adjacent needle loops on either
side of it. Loop exits in course in course length and it is that which influence fabric
dimension and other properties including weight. In order to determine the stitch
length, we count 100 no Wales or stitch and count its length by hanging the yarn on
the stitch counter. The reading is found in mm unit.. The weight, thickness and type
of fabric sewn will determine the stitch length to use.

All of these four things are related to each other.In this Report we try to maintain
different types of fabrics construction, yarn count,GSM & stitch length of fabric.
Relation Among Different types of fabrics construction,

GSM,Yarn Count & Stitch Length

Fabric Construction Finished GSM Yarn Count Stitch Length(mm)

220-240 20s 2.62

Single Jersey/Plain 200-220 20s 2.87

180-200 25s 2.54
150-160 30s 2.59
120-140 34s 2.73

100-120 40s 2.74

110-120 50s 2.09

270-310 25s 3.31

Interlock 250-270 30s 3.07

210-240 34s 3.13

180-210 40s 2.03

160-180 50s 2.82

260-290 20s 2.98

Single Rib
220-260 25s 2.73
180-220 30s 2.73
160-190 34s 2.76
150-170 40s 2.56
Fabric Construction Finished GSM Yarn Count Stitch Length(mm)
320-360 30s 1.86
Double Rib
280-320 34s 1.86

260-290 40s 1.72

220-250 20s 2.56

Pique Single
190-220 25s 2.35

160-180 30s 2.36

140-160 34s 2.36

250-270 20s 2.77

Pique Double
210-240 25s 2.56
180-210 30s 2.46
160-180 34s 2.49

290-320 20s 2.63

F/B Rib Single
270-290 25s 2.29
230-260 30s 2.18
190-210 34s 2.36

290-310 25s 2.45

F/B Rib Double
260-280 30s 2.27
230-250 34s 2.25
Fabric Construction Finished GSM Yarn Count Stitch Length(mm)

Polyester S/J 150-170 50s 1.46

180-200 25s 2.46

280-300 25s 2.31

Waffle
240-270 30s 2.19

200-230 34s 2.29

320-350 20s-20D 2.95

Lycra Rib
270-310 25s-40D 2.72

260-280 30s-70D 2.44

240-270 34s-70D 2.28

260-290 20s 2.92

Dourby Rib
220-250 25s 2.73

190-220 30s 2.61

Lycra Dourby F/S 300 30s 2.23

260-280 30s-ALT-40D 1.90

Lycra Jersey 220-240 34s-ALT-40D 1.97

180-210 40s-ALT-40D 1.97
 150-170 50s-ALT-40D 1.92
Lycra Jersey
220-250 34s-ALT-20D 1.92

180-220 40s-ALT-20D 1.92

160-180 50s-ALT-20D 1.81

300-350 30s-2ply 4.10

Heavy Jersey
260-280 34s-2ply 4.35

220-240 40s-2ply 4.34

180-200 50s-2ply 4.20

300-330 20s+20s 1.22

270-290 25s+20s 1.22
Fleece-2T
240-270 30s+20s 1.20
220-240 34s+20s 1.24
200-220 40s+20s 1.22
180-200 40s+25s 1.24
160-180 40s+30s 1.29
360-400 25s+10s 1.58
330-360 30s+20s 1.22
Fleece-3T
310-340 34s+20s 1.20
280-300 40s+20s 0.90
230-260 50s+80s 0.47
270-290 25s+80s 0.52
Velour
240-260 30s+80s 0.56
 220-240 34s+80s 0.58

190-210 40s+80s 0.64

245-255 18s 3.00

Single Lacost
210-215 24s 2.64

200-210 26s 2.60

180-190 30s 2.50

CONCLUSION:

The assignment has come to a termination finally after lots of thinking, discussion
and we uninterrupted trying. We really have worked hard to complete this report
well ahead. We wished to make it as a replica of production so that it provides a
complete knowledge about Fabrics GSM,Yarn count & Stitch Length. Though there
were some limitations like shortage of time that compelled us to complete the thesis
as soon as possible, even then we have tried to give our best.
In this report we have studied Study on effect of Fabrics in GSM variation according
to the yarn count. Here it has been shown different types of GSM of single jersey and
rib fabric & other kinds of fabrics. The reason of GSM variation is because of different
yarn count.
In addition, we wanted to discuss some more topics, such as definition of
Fabric,Fabric GSM meaning,Yarn count meaning,& Stitch length Description etc.We
also added some picture about Fabrics & fabrics GSM,Stitch length & relation among
them. In these assignment there should be limitation of answer & data because of
the limitation of time as well as due to deficiency of enough sources of information,
we could not meet these. Further research can be conducted on those topics.