Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Submitted By
BITTU KUMARI (PAT13AP41)
ISHA SINGH (PAT13AP33)
SARIKA SINHA (PAT13AP24)
We wish to express our deepest gratitude and warmest appreciation to the following people,
who, in all way have contributed and inspired us to the overall success of this undertaking. The
success of this project depends largely on the encouragement and guidelines of many others.
We take this opportunity to express our gratitude to the people who have been Instrumental in
the successful completion of this internship.
We wish to express our heartily gratitude towards our parents who supported us through our
apparel internship and provided us a golden opportunity of prove ourselves as a self-dependent
persons and exploring the realistic situation.
We wish to express our gratitude towards our esteemed institution National Institute of Fashion
Technology, Patna and our respected director Mr. Sanjay Srivastav. It was majorly because of
being associated with the institution that we were presented with this opportunity. We are also
very thankful to our mentor Ms. Nilima Regina Topno to guide us throughout the internship
and help us to complete our respective projects.
We would like to extend our whole hearted gratitude to Mr. Hiral Lakadwala (Plant Manager),
Mrs.Nethravathi (Manager-Human Resource & Administration), for giving us such an
opportunity to learn and explore.
We place deep appreciation for the continued co-operation and support given by our industry
mentors, Mr. Anupam Kumar, Ms. Madiha Farheen and Mr. Rakesh Roushan for the services
of the devoted staff, workers and executives of the company. With every activity undertaken,
the Company has not only generated vast knowledge base but has also contributed to creation
of self-motivation and has inspired me to work.
The internship at Silver Spark Apparel Ltd. II, Gowribidanur was a unique experience and we
would like to thank everyone associated for transforming this opportunity into a success.
1
Table of contents
Chapter Topic Page No.
1 Raymond introduction 7
1.1 List of companies 9
1.2 Joint ventures 10
1.3 History 11
1.4 Raymond group structure 13
2 Organizational department introduction 14
2.1 SSAL II 15
2.2 Infrastructure 17
2.3 Organizational structure 18
2.4 Departments 20
2.4.1 Merchandising department 21
2.4.2 Sampling department 22
2.4.3 Pattern Development department 26
2.4.4 Planning department 26
2.4.5 Fabric & trim store 27
2.4.6 Cutting 43
2.4.7 Sewing 60
2.4.8 Finishing 75
2.4.9 Warehouse 80
2.4.10 Quality 82
2.4.11 IE 88
2.4.12 IT & MIS 92
2.4.13 Training 93
2.4.14 HR &Admin 98
2.4.15 Maintenance 100
3 Plant layout 101
3.1 Building shed 102
3.2 Manpower 103
3.3 Machine details 104
4 Projects 106
4.1 Line balancing 107
4.2 Improving productivity with Pitch Time 124
Graph
4.3 Development of proactive issue process 138
& Material Management
5 Annexures 184
2
Table of Figures
Figure 1: Raymond: The Complete Man ................................................................................................. 8
Figure 2: The Singhania's ...................................................................................................................... 11
Figure 3: SSAL II Journey .................................................................................................................... 16
Figure 4: layout of fabric store .............................................................................................................. 28
Figure 5: inspection machine ................................................................................................................ 35
Figure 6: sponging machine .................................................................................................................. 36
Figure 7: relaxation machine ................................................................................................................ 37
Figure 8: trim store ............................................................................................................................... 38
Figure 9: trim store layout .................................................................................................................... 39
Figure 10: manual spreading................................................................................................................. 49
Figure 11: machine spreading ............................................................................................................... 50
Figure 12: cutting .................................................................................................................................. 51
Figure 13: fusing .................................................................................................................................... 59
Figure 1: jacket finishing ....................................................................................................................... 75
Figure 2: trouser finishing ..................................................................................................................... 78
Figure 3: training section ...................................................................................................................... 93
Figure 4: two hand coordination .......................................................................................................... 95
Figure 5: fabric exercise ........................................................................................................................ 96
Figure 6: paper exercise ........................................................................................................................ 96
Figure 7: uniform colour code .............................................................................................................. 97
3
Table of Tables
Table 1: 4 point inspection.................................................................................................................... 30
Table 2: CSV inspection ......................................................................................................................... 32
Table 3: machine details of fabric store................................................................................................ 35
Table 4: AQL 2.5 .................................................................................................................................... 40
Table 5: thread and ticket number ....................................................................................................... 42
Table 6: CAD software details ............................................................................................................... 45
Table 1: shell parts of a jacket .............................................................................................................. 62
Table 2: small parts of a jacket ............................................................................................................. 62
Table 3: lining parts of a jacket ............................................................................................................. 63
Table 4: total parts of a jacket .............................................................................................................. 63
Table 5: waist coat shell parts............................................................................................................... 68
Table 6: waist coat lining parts ............................................................................................................. 68
Table 7: floor area ............................................................................................................................... 102
Table 8: manpower ............................................................................................................................. 103
Table 9: machine details ..................................................................................................................... 104
4
Table of Flow Charts
Flow Chart 1: organizational structure ................................................................................................. 19
Flow chart 2: sampling process flow .................................................................................................... 23
Flow chart 3: Planning department work flow...................................................................................... 26
Flow chart 4: store hierarchy ................................................................................................................ 27
Flow chart 5: fabric store flow chart ..................................................................................................... 29
Flow chart 6: trim sore work flow ........................................................................................................ 40
Flow chart 7: CAD work flow ................................................................................................................. 44
Flow Chart 8: Spreading process flow ................................................................................................... 48
Flow Chart 1: front section ................................................................................................................... 65
Flow Chart 2: lining section flow ........................................................................................................... 66
Flow Chart 3: collar section flow........................................................................................................... 66
Flow Chart 4: sleeve section flow ......................................................................................................... 67
Flow Chart 5: assembly section............................................................................................................. 67
Flow Chart 6: small parts W/C .............................................................................................................. 69
Flow Chart 7: front and back flow W/C ................................................................................................ 69
Flow Chart 8: assembly section flow W/C ............................................................................................ 70
Flow Chart 9: Lining section flow W/C .................................................................................................. 70
Flow Chart 10: preparatory flow of trouser .......................................................................................... 72
Flow Chart 11: front and back flow trouser .......................................................................................... 72
Flow Chart 12: assembly 1 trouser ....................................................................................................... 73
Flow Chart 13: assembly 2 trouser ....................................................................................................... 73
Flow Chart 14: Sewing line structure .................................................................................................... 74
Flow Chart 15: jacket finishing organizational structure ...................................................................... 76
Flow Chart 16: jacket finishing process flow......................................................................................... 76
Flow Chart 17: finishing organizational structure ................................................................................. 78
Flow Chart 18: trouser finishing flow .................................................................................................... 79
Flow Chart 19: warehouse organizational structure ............................................................................ 80
Flow Chart 20: warehouse process flow ............................................................................................... 81
Flow Chart 21: quality organizational chart .......................................................................................... 82
Flow Chart 22: raw material inspection flow ........................................................................................ 83
Flow Chart 23: quality in cutting ........................................................................................................... 84
Flow Chart 24: quality in fusing ............................................................................................................ 84
Flow Chart 25: quality in sewing ........................................................................................................... 85
Flow Chart 26: quality in finishing......................................................................................................... 85
Flow Chart 27: IE process flow .............................................................................................................. 88
Flow Chart 28: IE organizational structure ........................................................................................... 89
Flow Chart 29: Responsibilities of IE ..................................................................................................... 90
Flow Chart 30: HR organizational structure .......................................................................................... 99
Flow Chart 31: Maintenance organizational chart ............................................................................. 100
5
Declaration
This is to declare that we have completed my Apparel Internship at Silver Spark Apparel Ltd.
II, Gowribidanur under the guidance of Mr. Anupam Kumar, Mr.Rakesh Roushan and
Ms.Mahida Farheen. The work is purely original and no part of the project has been copied
from any other reports. However, any reference or instance taken from any other published
source has been suitably acknowledged at various places.
6
CHAPTER -1
RAYMOND
INTRODUCTION
7
Figure 1: Raymond: The Complete Man
Incorporated in 1925, the Raymond Group is a Rs.1400 crore plus conglomerate having
businesses in Textiles, Readymade Garments, Engineering Files & Tools, Prophylactics and
Toiletries.
The group is the leader in textiles, apparel, & files & tools in India and enjoys a pronounced
position in the international market. Raymond believes in Excellence, Quality and Leadership.
Raymond is considered a pioneer in the development of the woolen and worsted textiles market
in India, thanks to its continuous initiatives in product development, marketing and distribution.
A strong heritage of in house research and development, a range of over 20,000 shades and
designs, a distribution network of more than 4000 multi - brand outlets and over 281 exclusive
retail shops, makes Raymond the largest and most respected textile brand in India.
Raymond is uniquely positioned as a brand that addresses the innate need of men to look good
and at the same time possess strength of character. This emphasis on human values creates a
warm emotional link with consumers- the essence of 'The Complete Man'.
At Raymonds consistent focus is on cutting-edge research and technology that has resulted in
pioneering new products, which have set new benchmarks in the worsted suiting industry in
India.
The company's engagement with the customer works on multiple dimensions right from
developing fashion guides that help them look sharp, to a wide selection of fabric for all
occasions and fashion, to offering superior tailoring at The Raymond Shops at convenient
locations all over India and the Middle East.
As an integrated player, they provide end-to-end fabric solutions right from manufacturing
worsted, woollen and linen fabrics to creating suits, trousers and apparel.
Raymond is home to some of the most reputed apparel brands of India under the banner of
Raymond Apparel Ltd.
8
1.1 LIST OF COMPANIES
RAYMOND LTD.
Raymond Ltd. is among the largest integrated manufacturers of
worsted fabrics in the world.
9
1.2 JOINT VENTURES
JK ANSELL LTD.
The manufacturers and marketers of kamasutra condoms and surgical
gloves.
JK TALABOT LTD
Joint venture with MOB outillage SA, manufacturing files and rasps for
international markets.
10
1.3 HISTORY
Around the time the Singhania family was building, consolidating and expanding its various
businesses in Kanpur, one Mr. Wadia, was in a similar manner engaged in fulfilling his dream:
he set up a small woolen mill in the area around Thane creek, 40 kilo meters away from
Bombay. The Sassoons, a well-known industrialist family of Bombay, soon acquired this mill
and renamed it as The Raymond Woolen Mills
When the Singhania were looking for new regions to establish their presence and new fields to
venture into, they concurred that textiles appeared to hold promise. A piece of information that
a woolen mill was available on the outskirts of Bombay clinched the issue. When the grandson
of Lala Juggilal, Lala Kailashpat Singhania took over Raymond in 1944, the mill was primarily
making cheap and coarse woolen blankets, and modest quantities of low priced woolen fabrics.
The vision and foresight of Mr. Kailashpat Singhania helped greatly in establishing the J.K.
Groups presence in the western region. Under his able stewardship, Raymond embarked upon
a gradual phase of technological up gradation and modernization producing woolen fabrics of
a far superior quality. Under Mr. Gopalakrishna Singhania, the mill became a world-class
factory and the Raymond brand became synonymous with fine quality woolen fabrics. At
Raymond, quality did not rest on its laurels
When Dr. Vijaypat Singhania took over the reins of the company in 1980, he injected fresh
vigor into Raymond, transforming it into a modern, industrial conglomerate. His son Mr.
Gautam Hari Singhania, the present chairman and managing director has been instrumental in
restructuring the Group. With the divestment of the Synthetics, Steel and Cement divisions he
initiated, the Group has emerged stronger with a better bottom line, more focused approach,
become market oriented and achieved a consolidated position
11
Today, the woolen mill by the creek has turned into a Rs. 1400 Crores conglomerate and is
Indias leading producer of worsted suiting fabric with 60% market share. It is also the largest
exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments to 54 countries including Australia,
Canada, USA, the European Union and Japan. The Raymond group is also the leader among
ready-mades in India with a turnover of Rs. 2000 million with its three brands Park Avenue,
Parx and Manzoni.
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS
It all began with a small but significant order from Fiji for Rs. 7,000 worth of Raymond fabrics.
In the St. Eriks Fair in Sweden, a sizeable order was won and executed and ever since exports
have never looked back.
Today, Raymond is the largest exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments to over 58
countries including Australia, Canada, USA, the European Union and Japan. From winning the
first ever Government of India award for outstanding export performances, Raymond has
continued to win a number of export awards. Happily the export graph continues to rise
higherand higher.
Raymond Denim enjoys a substantial market share in all parts of the world. The company
exports 55% of its production to around 20 countries around the world and to leading denim
wear brands like Levi's, Pepe, Lee Cooper and retail brands like Zara, H&M, Gap, Tommy
Hilfiger, etc.
European Union (U.K., Portugal, Spain, Italy, Germany, Greece),Japan, Turkey, Poland,
Lebanon, Egypt, Middle East, Mauritius, USA, Colombia, Hong Kong, Korea, Philippines,
Indonesia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Pakistan. The products that Raymond Exports
are:
Fabrics
100% Wool, Wool Rich, Polyester Wool & Polyester Viscose fabrics .Exotic fabrics
like Wool Silk, Wool Cashmere, Cape Wool and Linen blends. Available in variety of
finished and stretch properties both with and without Lycra.
Blankets
100% Wool, Wool Rich Blankets & Flannels.
Garments
Trousers, Jackets, Suits, Shirts, Jeans and Readymade accessories such as Ties, Socks
Handkerchiefs and Leather Belts.
12
1.4 Raymond group structure
RAYMOND
GROUP
CMD
Group
Preside
Celebration Kamasutra
EverBlue
Apparel
Ltd
The
Thane Raymond
Manzoni Shop
Chindwara
Park
Avenue
Vapi
Parx
Jalgaon
ColorPlus
SSAL
Notting Hill
Be:
Zapp!
13
CHAPTER 2
ORGANIZATIONS DEPARTMENT
INTRODUCTION
14
2.1 RAYMOND LTD. GAURIBIDANUR
Raymond Ltd. Gouribidanur was inaugurated on 24th Oct. 2008.
This is a suits, jackets and trouser manufacturing plant.
The total area is 11 acres and the build-up area is 2, 00,000 sq. Feet.
Silver Spark Apparel Ltd, II is a wholly owned subsidiary of Raymond Ltd. marking
the group's foray into the Global Apparel Outsourcing market.
The facility manufactures high end suits, formal trousers, jackets and vests catering
largely to export markets and are at par with best in class from USA and Europe.
The state-of-the-art manufacturing facility at the company's Gouribidanur plant
produces 6.06 lacks Jackets, 4.98 lacks Trouser & 0.46 lacks Vest coat annually.
Set-up at a total project cost of USD 10 million, the facility has a total built-up area of
9 acres feet and houses some of the highly rated equipment including CAD CAM.
Over the years the facility has significantly invested in people and processes to win
numerous awards both on manufacturing front and winning culture which has been
widely recognized.
Raymond ltd. Suit Plant is a 100% subsidiary of Raymond Group of Industries. Raymond
Group has become within a short period of time since its incorporation in 1925 a major global
conglomerate. The Group Raymond was set up as a textile Indian major and it has always
nurtured leadership and quality. The chairman and managing director of the group is Gautam
Hari Singhania.
The Label Raymond manufactures the finest fabrics in the world from wool worsted blended
suiting to wool to shirting of high value as well as ring specialty denims. Raymond Label is
one of the leading group in the designer wear, engineering tools & files, denim, air charter and
prophylactics services in both international and national markets, cosmetics & toiletries, and
fabrics. The group has a very wide range of more than 12,000 varieties of suiting that cater to
consumers across all age groups, styles, and occasions. Raymond Group after making its mark
in the textile sector entered the garmenting sector through ventures such as Ever Blue Apparel
Ltd, Silver Spark Apparel Ltd, and Celebrations Apparel Ltd and Raymond Ltd Suit Plant
15
Vision
Crafting world class formal wear and accessories for delivering The complete man globally,
whilst value adding to all the stake holders on a sustained basis.
Mission
Consistently manufacture quality garments with a global appeal and meeting the global
aspiration, always.
Create a paradigm shift in the quality of life under privilege sections of the community at large
by including and up skilling them, always.
Create a seamless and safe eco system of internal and external customers who would be
delighted to associate with us, always.
Contribute to the society by way of inventions for socio economic betterment particularly of
women, always.
16
2.2 INFRASTRUCTURE
CUTTING - The cutting section is equipped with the Gerber & Morgan spreader and cutter
that ensure 100% perfection. It improves turnaround times and expedites the cutting process
with minimal waste and cost. The section also has Band Knife machine and fusing machines.
Most modern CAD systems from Gerber, Intellocut and Lectra are employed for Computerized
Precision Pattern Making, Grading and Marking System. The facility also has 5 CNC cutters.
Advanced designing system and elaborate matching processes are employed to achieve
intricate patterns and sophisticated illustration. Both machine and manual methods are
employed for cutting and spreading.
STITCHING - With its wide range of advanced machinery & proficient labour capable of
producing stylized garments with perfection & finesse, the sewing section has a hi-tech
infrastructure. The production lines are UPS based. The production lines are fully integrated
and operational with various types of powered sewing machines from Brother, Juki, Pegasus,
Pfaff, DA, & special machines like Computerized Welt Pocketing Machine, Belt Loop
Attachment Machines, and Multi-Needle Kansai Special Machines & Special sleeve attaching
machine.
17
FINISHING - Hi-tech machinery and cutting edge technology facilitate high quality wrinkle
free finishing. Various pressing machines and heat transferring machines are available to
ensure improvement in high functional performance of the garment through specialty finishing.
There are 13 types of buck pressing machine for perfect finish.
INSPECTION - Silver spark has an efficient Final Inspection Department equipped with the
latest equipment. This section plays the most crucial role in ensuring 100% perfection of all
the products. It is inspected that all the features demanded by the clients are designed or not.
The experts thoroughly check all the products to make sure that the perfect products are
delivered to the client. The products carry the brand image of the company. Thats why utmost
care has been taken in this section to ensure that all the products are faultless.
The business is headed by Plant Head who, further, has functional heads supporting him:
Production Merchandising Head
Quality Head
HR/Admin Head
The respective managers of Trims Store, Cutting Department, Industrial Engineering, Sewing
Department, Quality, Finishing & Maintenance department directly report to the Plant Head.
The head of department has an indirect reporting responsibility to the Merchandising
Department. The Merchandising Department has a major role to play and is involved in every
stage of the product development. The Head of Merchandising heads the activities in the three
departments namely merchandising, purchase department and fabric department. The Head
(HR/Admin) heads the activities of the HR department, Admin department and the IT
department.
The Plant Head reports to the General Manager for the various activities and major decision
making in the departments.
18
Fabrics &
Trims
Spreading &
Cutting
Jacket Sewing
Sewing
Trouser
Sewing
Jacket Quality
Quality
Trouser
Quality
Director Plant Manager Warehouse
HR & Admin
IT
Purchase
Office
Functions
Planning
Accounts
EXIM
19
2.4 DEPARTMENTS AT SSAL-II
The work flow of Raymond Ltd is a planned and coordinated effort from all the departments.
Giving the importance to quality and precision, checks are performed at every stage of
Manufacture right from pre-production to post-production. There are 14 different departments
in Raymond Ltd. They are:
1. Merchandising Department
2. Sampling Department
3. Planning Department
4. Pattern Development
5. Fabric & Trims Store
6. Cutting Department
7. Sewing Department
8. Finishing Department
9. Warehouse
10. Quality Assurance
11. Industrial Engineering,
12. Human Resource & Administration Department
13. Information Technology Department
14. Training Department
15. Maintenance Department
All these departments are related to the process of production. The working of departments and
involved processes of production is explained further.
20
Process flow of the industry
Order
Order received Product Production
confirmation
from SSAL Merchandising Merchandising
at SSAL
Sewing Finishing
Sewing Finishing
Quality Quality
Department Department
Checking Checking
Customer
Shipment Warehouse Packing
or Buyer
21
2.4.2 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Garment sampling is very important process. It is a model of what the bulk production to be
manufactured. The buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality of
the samples. Garment sampling is a very important task in an apparel manufacturing because
it gives the satisfaction of the customer with respect to the product that would be manufactured.
This is in turn important because if the buyer is not satisfied by the samples, this puts the
following at risk:
Placement of the order
Acceptance of the some or the entire quantity of garments produced
The sampling department is in constant touch with the merchandising department, which is in
contact with the Head Office where the order is confirmed. The buyer supplies the specification
sheet depending on which the patterns are developed.
Objectives
Getting approvals from buyers based on the samples produced.
The Sampling Department develops the sample product from the base patterns which
are sent to the buyer for approval, if there are any changes or alterations to be done in
the sample of product then the buyer informs the Merchandiser who in turn asks the
Sampling Department to make the necessary changes in the sample product as per
requirement.
Getting pre-production approvals on the fittings, constructions, quality, fabric and trims
of the style.
Checking and analysing new styles, defining quality terms of new styles to production
department.
The sampling department also calculates the consumption of fabric required to produce
the garment.
The sampling department also access for accessories and thread consumption for that
particular garment.
Based on the sample garment the costing is been carried out.
When all the Pre-Production Sample is approved by the buyer, the Sampling
Department forwards the Production Marker, which has all the graded sizes of the
approved pattern to the Cutting Department. The Details Attached to the Garment
Sample After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following
22
details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both,
what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim, etc. they have used (if
applicable).
Ref no. and Style no. / Size
Colour
Fabric
Composition
Description
Quantity
Operating procedure
Sewing In-Line
Finishing
SCR fill
23
Style meeting
Sampling head conduct style meeting along with the Sampling Head
Pattern Makers, Spreading and Cutting, Head of Sewing Line, IE of Sewing Line, Quality
Department, Finishing and the company merchant of that buyer, where they discuss all the
specifications and technical issues related to the sample development so as to meet buyer
requirements. Afterwards the process of sample development initiates.
The first sample to be developed is the Proto-Type Sample. After the development of Proto-
Type Sample, it is sent to the buyer for its approval and feedback. After approval of Proto Type
Sample, FIT Sample is developed for base size of the buyer and then sent to buyer for
inspection and feedback related to fit of the product. Thereafter, Merchant receives the
feedback from the Buyer forwarded by the Head Office. The modifications suggested by the
buyer are improvised on the Size-Set Sample developed after FIT Sample.
Size-set sample is followed by a Size-set meeting which involves all members of Style meeting
for discussion on the buyer comments and to meet the buyer requirements. Size set sample is
not sent to the buyer, it is made by the factory for its own reference. Size-set sample
development is followed by Pre-production sample which is developed using actual fabric and
trims. Pre-production sample is then sent to the buyer for its final approval, meanwhile the
production of the garment in sewing line is initiated.
TOP Samples are sent to the buyer from the bulk production to bring to his knowledge the
quality of product being manufactured. These samples are sent only on buyer demand.
Note: All the samples for jacket and waist coat are developed in the sewing line itself while
trouser samples are developed in the sampling department.
24
Types of samples
1. Proto sample
This is the first sample being prepared from substitute fabric in only one size. This
sample is sent to buyer agent if not in some case to buyer itself. The pattern prepared
for proto sample does not contain seam allowances. This sample is prepared just to get
the garment outlook and size.
2. Fit sample
Fit samples are those samples that are made after getting the order sheets. These
samples are needed to check the measurements, style, and fit. They can be made
available in similar fabrics in the actual measurements and specifications. In this
sample, all the technical specification of the product are mentioned. The accurate
dimensions of the garment are also specified.
3. Size set samples
This sample is been prepared in order to check perfect fit of different sizes of the
garment. In all sizes one sample is kept for reference.
4. Pre-Production samples
These samples are almost like the approval samples. They are made in actual fabric
with actual bulk trims. In this sample all accessories and fabric being original. The Q.C.
in the production selects one sample and sends it to the Merchandiser; the latter checked
and then sends it to the buyer.
5. Top samples
This is the sample been prepared in the production line during production hours. One
or two samples being sent to the buyer to give the knowledge of the garment how it is
being stitched in the production line. Although none of the buyers demand a TOP
sample in this unit.
6. Garment package test
The checking of the trims of sample at final step takes place according to the buyer spec
sheet. Colour fastness, strength, crocking of the sample in testing is done.
25
2.4.3 PATTERN DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT
It is the job of the Pattern Masters in the Pattern Making Department to prepare the base
size pattern of a style from which samples are prepared.
These patterns are later modified according to buyer comments.
The Pattern Masters may either produce the patterns manually on cardboards or they
use the Software. This pattern is then used to cut the fabrics in Sample Production
Department.
They also discuss quality issues with nominated Buyer QA. It is responsible for
creating the patterns both hard and soft once the order has been confirmed.
They receive patterns from buyer but changes have to be made to it for perfect fit.
Grading is also their responsibility. They use Gerber software for their work.
They have a digitizer to digitalize manual patterns.
Their internal customer is Cutting, CAD and Sampling department.
26
2.4.5 FABRIC & TRIMS STORE
Structure of the Department
store
executive
production
store In-
and quality
charge
engineer
assistant store
keeper
Fabric Store
The fabric store is the central warehouse for the storage of fabrics required for production.
Fabric stores will take care of received fabric lot as per the standard procedures. When the
fabric is received from the supplier, it is received along with an invoice which will contain the
order reference number and the buyer name. The fabric rolls are then checked whether the
invoice quantity and the actual quantity are same or not. After finishing the formalities of fabric
inward bales will be stacked according to buyer/colors.
Main Functions of the Department:
Receive the fabric as per BOM.
Inspect the fabric.
Conduct set inspections.
Issue to spreading department as per plan.
Receive the end bits.
Type of fabrics stored in the department is:
Shell
Lining
Pocketing
Felt
Fusing
Canvas
27
Layout of fabric store
28
Process flow of the Fabric Store:
Unloading
Bale opening
4 point inspection
Bar-coding
12 parameter inspection
Receive requisition
29
The 4-Point System (ASTM D5430):
Penalty points must be less than acceptable tolerance i.e. 42pts per 100 yards.
This test method describes a procedure to establish a numerical designation for grading of
fabrics with requirements mutually agreed upon by the purchaser and the supplier. This system
does not establish a given product, but rather provides a means of defining defects according
to their severity by assigning demerit point values.
Defect points:
The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are
considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect that
would cause a final garment to be considered a second.)
Note:
1. No running yard shall be penalized more than 4 points for warp and Weft defects.
2. Defects appearing within 1 of either edge shall be disregarded.
3. Any hole other than a pin hole shall be considered a Major defect and assigned 4 points
for penalty.
4. Points per 100sq. yards= Total points scored in the bulk x 100 x 3
Width of the role (Inch) x Total yards Inspected
5. Points per 100s. Meter= Total points scored in the bulk x 100 x 100
Width of the role (cm) x Total yards Inspected
30
Parameters Followed In Fabric Store:
Width Report:
The cut fabric pieces are grouped or categorised in A, B, C, D and more as per the shade
band family.
Shade swatch A 6 piece across the width of roll is cut & checked for Right &
Wrong side of fabric.
Marking of face side and wrong is done to help decide the spreading process as per
the approval given by the merchant.
Hand Feel:
At the time of face side approval, hand feel is also being checked.
Shrinkage
Steam Shrinkage:
Steam shrinkage is carried out 10% for different types of fabric so as to avoid any
deviation from actual pattern of the garment during exposure to heat and moisture i.e.
pressing and finishing.
Process:
A square swatch of 30 cm is cut out from a roll and marked. Measurements are
taken width wise & lengthwise.
This swatch is passed through steam & left for some time for relaxation; percentage
is calculated and is added in pattern.
Standard Shrinkage for non-wash product (Wool Blend):2-2.5 %
Standard Shrinkage for Wash Product : 2.5-3.5%
Fusing Shrinkage:
Shrinkage for fusing is measured as this can give way to various defects and handling problems.
In this process fabric and fusing are placed together.
31
Fusing temperature/pressure/time depends on the fabric content as well as type of
fusing.
Standard Shrinkage for non-wash product (Wool Blend): 2-2.5 %
Standard Shrinkage for Wash Product: 2.5-3.5%
Standard Fusing Bond Strength: 2 lbs. /1Kg.
Sample size
Fabric 30cm*30cm
Fusing 28cm*28cm
1 2 3 4
3 1 4 2
2 4 1 3
Standard Acceptance: Level 4-5 (Referred Grey Scale ISO International Standard 105/A030)
Shade Band Card:
32
While doing analysis with any of the above grey scale, as per standards, the surface
area needs to be illuminated with an artificial daylight/north sky daylight source with
illumination of 538 lux (50 lumens per square foot) or more.
The light should be incident upon the surfaces at 45 and the direction of viewing 90
to the plane of the surface. This is where the need for a colour matching cabinet comes,
to check the CSV variation of shade in a roll.
From a lot 10% of rolls are selected and a swatch is cut to identify CSV.
The swatch size is 5 X roll width.
Swatch is divided into 4 equal parts i.e. 1, 2, 3, and 4.
A shade band combining 3, 1, 4, and 2 is prepared.
As this condition is satisfied by a colour matching both having a 45 angle stand.
Color Fastness:
To check the fabric with Perchloro Ethylene (Commonly known as white petrol)
and steam water separately for colour fastness.
The assessment is being done by visually comparing the difference in colour or
contrast between the untreated and treated specimens with the differences
represented.
Color fastness is also checked by with wet rubbing in order to determine the
resistance of the color to rubbing.
Color fastness is also checked with dry rubbing in order to determine the resistance
of the color to rubbing.
Nap Direction:
The term with nap is used on sewing patterns and instructions; it affects the
amount of yardage needed, how the pattern is cut, how the Item is sewn and pressed.
To determine if a fabric has Nap, fold it right sides together matching the cut ends,
then turn one corner back
Check that the layers look and feel exactly the same. If they dont the fabric has
nap.
The design patterns of napped fabrics all lie in one direction; this makes the fabric
look different when viewed from different directions.
33
When cutting out fabric with Nap it is necessary to cut the Fabric so that it will all
be running on one direction.
Bowing refers to the Defect which relates to the placement of any object Non parallel
to the straighten yarn in cloth structure.
Skewing is the fabric condition resulting when courses are angularly displaced from
line perpendicular to the edge of the fabric.
34
Machine Details
Inspection Machine
In inspection machine we do inspection of fabric in 4 point system.
Inspection Machine
Machine Details:
o Machine Model No.- Ybj-180
o Max Roll Diameter: 350mm
o Machine Speed: 6 8 M/Min
o Stretch Adjustment: 0-200n
o Total Power: 1.8 Kw
o Serial No: 08368b005
o Manufacturer: Shanghai Weshi Machinery Co., Ltd.
o Lux Required : 1400 - 1600
35
Sponging Machine
Sponging is done to control shrinkage in wool and wool blend fabric. This process is quite
effective in removing relaxation shrinkage and any inherent strains within the fabric structure.
It is applied to wool fabric before cutting to prevent possible contractions of the fabric in the
finished garment.
The machine has four different chambers where pre steaming, steaming and drying of the fabric
is done.
Machine Details
36
Relaxation Machine
In relaxation machine the lycra fabric is relaxed to avoid shrinkage during the production
process as per the buyers requirement. The fabric is hanged for 24 hours and they are supplied
to the cutting department in the same condition.
37
Trims Department
Objective:
To receive Incoming material and check material for attribute & variables
To arrange an incoming material in an allocated racks
To issue trims as per production planning & other material as per requirement
To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material
To do audit to check physical inventory
To receive Incoming material and check material for attribute & variables
To arrange an incoming material in an allocated racks
To issue trims as per production planning & other material as per requirement
To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material
To do audit to check physical inventory
38
Trim Store Layout
39
Working of Trims Store:
1. Incoming materials
2. Unloading
4. Quantity check
Types of trims
Sewing Trims:
Finishing Trims:
40
Quality Inspection
42
2.4.6 CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Prior to Spreading & Cutting patterns were developed in the CAD Department.
Structure of Department
Plant Manager
Asst. Plant
Manager
Executive
Executive
Cutting - Officer CAD
Cutting -Jacket
Trouser
CAM/Cutting CAM/Cutting
Operator Operator
Department Capacity:
1. Jackets
Solid: 3500 Pieces/day
Checks: 3150 Pieces /day
Waistcoat: 500 Pieces /day
2. Trousers
Solid: 3600 Pieces / day
Checks: 3000 Pieces/ day
43
6.1 CAD Department
In CAD Department patterns were being developed by both methods. Major patterns were
made manually on cardboard and then digitized while other patterns of small parts were
developed in the software directly.
Work flow of CAD department
Recieve
hard
pattern
Digitize
Grading
Pattern
approval by
respective
pattern
masters
Marker
making
Actual Miniature
marker marker for
Soft copy to
print out for CAM cutting to
CAM
manual identify cut
cutting parts
Flow chart 7: CAD work flow
44
CAD Software Details:
Software Uses
Gerber version 8.2 Pattern making, Pattern grading, Marker making
Cut issue & FCR generator Cut issue slip, Final cut report
Marker Planning
Cutting department makes a marker plan after receiving following details:
Pattern detail from cad department
Note: Add shrinkage percentage length and width wise & fabric usable width in a pattern as
per details received from fabric department for a particular purchase order.
45
A pattern to be approved by technical manager.
Sampling department is to develop size set & send to buyer for approval
Bulk Production starts after taking approval of pre-production sample and buyer
comments taken into consideration.
Cutting department is to prepare the cut plan for a required purchase order as per
required size, ratio and colour.
Cad operator is to develop a marker plan as per required size, ratio and usable fabric
width
As per departmental planning, lay report, cut summary, mini marker & plotter marker
is to be generated & given to laying section.
For Bulk orders 8 way and 4 way markers were used instead of 2 way and 1 way.
6.2 Spreading
The spreading was being done manually as well as with the help of automatic spreader. It was
done manually in case of a high probability of occurrence of bowing or skewing problem in
the fabric, mostly when it comes to striped fabric. 80% of lining fabric was spread and end cut
manually because of bowing and skewing problem.
46
Workflow
1. Fabric is received from fabric store department along with following details:
Length of rolls
2. Spreading operator receive lay report from CAD consisting of following details:
Purchase Order
Style Number
Lay Number
Lot quantity
Marker length
Lay length
No of plies to be spread
Consumption
3. Spreading operator starts laying and in case of machine spreading, operator loads fabric
roll in the cradle of machine and set the machine parameter as per lay details.
4. After completion of each roll; operator have to mention following details in spreading
/ laying report:-
Roll reference number
Fabric roll width
Fabric usable width
Fabric roll length
Colour /shade code
Usage in meters
Balance quantity
47
5. Spreading Check Points:
Stretch Warp way & Weft way
Fabric stability
Fabric direction e.g. Nape, Twill
Wrinkle or Stretch in a spread ply
Left side edge of fabric ply should be aligned to each other
Extreme ends of plies should be aligned
Fabric laid should be 1 to 1 more than the marker length
The fabric laid should never be less than marker width
Only relaxed/sponged fabric to be spread if buyer required so.
No defective or rejected fabric to be laid & fabric defects should be marked with
white chalk
Laying
48
Spreading Medium:
1. Manual Spreading:
In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from
its package which, is supported by a frame
and carried along the table where the end is
secured with the help of weights. After
laying one ply operator use rotary blade to
cut the end of the ply and then lay another
ply and so on. The operators work back
from the end, aligning the edges and
ensuring that there is no tension and that Figure 10: manual spreading
2. Machine spreading:
In Machine spreading first of all fabric roll is installed on the spreader and then end of the
fabric is hold by the catcher. As it lay the first ply, operator ensures that there are no wrinkles
in the ply and after laying one ply, end cutter cuts the end of ply and spreader moves to spread
next ply.
Spreading Machine
Gerber SY 101TT- 2 machines
Morgan Razor 1 machine
49
Spreading machine includes:
A motor to drive.
A platform on which the operator rides.
A ply cutting device with automatic catcher
to hold the ends of ply in place.
A ply counter.
An alignment shifter actuated by photo
electric edge guides.
Spreading Modes:
For Trousers
Solid: Face up
Checks and stripes: Face to face
Lining: Face up
Fusing: Face up
For Jackets
Shell(Solid, Checks and Stripes): Face to face
Lining: Face up
Fusing: Face to face
Sleeve lining:
o Stripe: Face to face
o Solid: Face up
Pin table used for spreading check and striped fabric.
50
6.3 Pinning
Pinning is an additional step required for plaid matching (stripes and checks). In such cases,
Spreading is done on pinning tables. Pinning table consists of intermediate rows and columns of
needles /pins which were so placed that they can be removed in rows along the length by the means
of hand wheel. There were indications in the marker about the places where the plaid matching is
required and length from zero position will be given.
After the spreading process is complete the lay is transported to cutting process. During
transportation, the fabric lays are held together with the help of clamps to make sure that the
alignment remains same. Table blower is utilized to help in easy transportation.
6.4 Cutting
Cutting of lay is done using straight knife, band knife and automatic CNC cutter ; and sometimes
manual cutting with the help of scissor in case of recutting.
51
Workflow
1. Operator is to convert marker plan to a cut file, which get saved in Gerber Automatic
Cutter.
2. Operator moves lay near the cutting machine.
3. Operator checks for the width and alignment of lay with the help of laser beam installed at
the machine in order to ensure on grain cutting. Lay width should match with the required
width of a marker.
4. Operator checks left edge, right edge and starting point of lay. It should be parallel to the
laser beam i.e. usable area of fabric should be inside the laser beam. In last byte, operator
is to check left edge, right edge and ending point of lay with laser beam.
5. Operator is to press cutting command after confirmation of all the edges of every bite.
6. CAM cutter cuts the desired pieces as per cut plan. After cutting a complete byte, operator
collects cut parts (panel) from conveyor or belt and keep on a table. Similarly, operator
moves next byte in sequence, do cutting and collects cut parts (panel).
7. Operator marks upper most ply of every cut parts (panel) on the backside of fabric with
marking chalk that would help in doing correct numbering of every cut panel
6.5 Numbering
After cutting, bundles are placed on numbering table for numbering / ticketing. Before cutting, a
poly sheet is laid on the lay, on which size of panels is mentioned. Numbering is done for lining
fabric panels while ticketing is done for shell fabric which have small stickers that includes size
and serial number of the panel. Operator do numbering /ticketing with the reference of lay report
which consists of information like:
o Lot number.
o Purchase order
o Style
o Colour
o Number of plies
52
Numbering Place Value
Digit Nomenclature
1 First number of waist size
2 Second number of waist size
3 First number of inseam size
4 Second number of inseam size
5 to 10 Serial number
For a particular purchase order, number starts from one and end at last cut order quantity.
Irrespective of size and colour number is given as per the purchase order & lay number.
Digit Nomenclature
1 Number of front buttons
2 Fixed alphabet S, that stands for size
3 to 5 Jacket size
6 to 8 Serial number of panel
For a particular colour of purchase order, number starts from one and end at last cut order quantity.
As per jacket size and serial number, digit number varies.
53
6.6 Panel Checking
Quality checking is an essential process for checking for visual defects in parts concentrated on
weaving defects. This is essential a quality department process in which cut panel in random is
checked for the dimensional accuracy by placing the top, middle, and bottom ply of any bulk parts
on graded nested patterns. This process is usually performed to make sure that after cutting process
and fusing, the part dimensions are intact. Any defect found here is sent for re-cutting, where parts
are cut manually.
Operator has to do inspection on 2.5 Acceptance Quality Level (AQL) bases. If lot gets rejected
on 2.5 AQL bases, then go for 100 % inspection.
100 per cent checking is done on Size sheet which contains pattern of different sizes. Panel
checking is not done for small parts like bone, flap, pocket lining, etc.
(a) Cut panel pattern inspection: Operator is to inspect panel against respective
pattern for
o Size
o Shape of panel
o Notch
.
(b) Fabric defect inspection: Operator has to do 100 % panel inspection i.e. individual
panel is to get inspected for following defects: -
o Yarn defects,
o Weaving defects,
o Finishing defects,
o Cutting defects, and
o Spreading defects.
Note: Operator has to check panel on transparent glass checking table-having light 500-600 Lux.
Operator has to remove defective panel from a lay and simultaneously, record defects in Check
Point Format. Followed by that, operator is to give defective panels to re-cutting section by
maintaining record of following details in internal re-cutting format.
Purchase Order
Style name
Color
Part Name or Number
Lay number
Serial number
54
Note: Re-cutting section is to recut panel from the respective ply end bit to replace defective panel
of a lay, do numbering and if necessary get it fused and give it back to Panel inspection section.
Operator has to again inspect the recut panel, put it into respective bundle and update a record
before issuing to sewing section.
Back Panel
o Size shape & notch
o Back panel to collar
o Back panel to back panel centreline
o Back panel to side panel
Sleeve
o Size, shape and notch
o Top sleeve to under sleeve
Lapel
o Size, shape and notch
o Lapel to lapel
o Lapel to front panel
55
TROUSER -Front Panel:
o Size shape and notch
o Front panel to back panel
o Front panel to pocket facing
Back Panel
o Size shape and notch
o Back Panel to back panel at seat seam.
Waist band
o Right waist to left waistband
o Left waistband to left extension
Note: Solid fabric inspects size, shape & notch. Checks & Strips inspects size, shape, notch &
matching point as mentioned above.
6.7 Re-cutting
Re-cutting was being done for defective or damaged panels in cutting. Generally darning was also
done in the same area. Re-cutting was generally done for the missing pieces from cutting, i.e.
panels which had some fabric related issues.
56
6.9 Fusing
Fusing process is one of the most important processes in cutting department. Fusing materials
essentially provide strength, stiffness and stability to the garment and adds to the presentation of
the garment.
Before fusing, the fusing machine must be set as per the required parameters for particular fabrics
and fusing. A standard guideline about the fusing setting will be given from fabric section. Another
important process here is Fuse Line Bond Testing. Bond testing is a process of mechanically testing
the fuse line pressure (in kgs) by means of mechanical weight scale. The process is performed at
starting of any new style and the same displayed alongside the machine. Also the fusing machine
are tested for temperature manually by means of temperature thermo strips twice a day to make
sure temperature calibration is intact , since the machine is influenced by outside weather and
climate.
The most important area of garment construction where an alternative process has significantly
taken over from sewing is in the attachment of interlinings. On large parts such as jacket fronts,
the attachment of interlinings by sewing is expensive and requires a skill if a high standards is to
be achieved. The alternative process which has been developed is that of fusing.
2. Part Fusing-They were basically non-woven fusing, which were fused at different part of the
panels like collar, shoulder, side seam, inseam, arm-hole ,bottom line, dart, pocket, bone, flap etc.
They are generally white or charcoal in color.
3. NR Fusing- They are so called because of presence of nylon thread in non-woven fusing. They
are used to strengthen the seams and are fused at side seam, in- seam, collar& shoulder .They are
generally white or black in color.
4. White Fusing This fusing is named after its color. It is used in few parts of panel which are
as buyer requirement.
57
Fusing Machines:
There are 9 fusing machine used in SSAL-II, of which 7 is used for jacket components and rest 2
for trouser panels. The fusing machines used for jacket fusing are as follows:
ManPower for Fusing: There are 10 operators for feeding the parts and 1 operator for collecting
these parts. The distribution for each part is as follows:
Feeding:
Front 3 Operators
Back and top-sleeve 3 Operators
Side-panel and In-sleeve 1 Operator each
Lapel 1 Operator
Small Parts 1 Operator
Note- Small parts includes Collar, Neck band, Welt, Bone and Flap.
Operator is to observe lay report to know following details:
o Lot Number
o Purchase order
o Style
o Colour
o Number of plies
o Serial number
58
Once working parameters are approved, operators is to observe following things before starting
bulk fusing operation:
o Correct shell and fuse type.
o Correct shell and fuse size.
o Correct shell and fuse color and shade.
o Correct working parameter of a fusing material.
.
Operator has to pass material gently on the conveyor belt of fusing machine and collect fused
material gently without any fold or wrinkle. Operator has to do fusing panel wise, size wise and
color wise.
Waist Band
Right And Left Fly
Bone
59
2.4.7 SEWING DEPARTMENT
Sewing departments function is the crucial and most vital job in a garment industry. This is the
place where actual production takes place. After the fabric is released from cutting, it is loaded to
the sewing department for the sewing.
The sewing section at SSAL II comprised of:
1. Jacket Lines
2. Trouser Lines
There were 7 jacket lines out of which Line 7 was involved in manufacturing jacket as well as
waistcoats. Trouser section had 6 lines. Each line had a Production Executive, Line Incharge,
Quality Checker and an Industrial Engineer. But in Line 7 there was no Industrial Engineer.
Department Capacity:
Jackets: 3500 Pieces/day
Waistcoat: 500 Pieces / day
Trousers: 2900 Pieces /day
60
1. Jacket Section
61
Total no. of Panels in a Jacket
Table 7: shell parts of a jacket
Shell Fabric
Part Cut Panel/s
Front 2
Back 2
Side Panel 2
Front Facing 2
Top Sleeve 2
Under Sleeve 2
Breast Pocket 1
Breast Pocket Facing 1
top Collar 1
Collar Band 1
Front pocket Bone 2
Front Pocket Flap 2
TOTAL 20
Small Parts
Part Cut Panel/s
Chest Felt 2
Chest Canvas 2
Small Chest Canvas 2
Patti 2
Big Chest Canvas 2
Sleeve Head Felt 2
Sleeve Head Canvas 8
62
Table 9: lining parts of a jacket
Lining Fabric
Part Cut Panel/s
Back 2
Front 2
Side body 2
Top sleeve 2
Under sleeve 2
Cigarette pocket lining 1
Welt pocket 2
Front arm tape 1
Flap lining 2
Triangle flap 1
Cigarette pocket bone 1
Cigarette pocket face 1
In pocket facing 2
In pocket bone 2
Pocket face 2
Sweat shield 4
TOTAL 29
Small Parts 20
Lining Parts 29
Shell Parts 20
Parts Fusing 14
Reinforcement 3
Knitted Fusing 5
TOTAL PARTS (JKT) 91
63
Trims & Accessories used in a basic jacket
1) Shoulder pad
2) Thread
3) Satin tape
4) Size label
5) Neck label
6) Content/Care label
7) Sleeve label
8) Main label or brand label
9) Bridle tape Felling tape
10) Armhole tape
11) Double sided fusing with paper
12) Double sided fusing without paper
13) Poly bag
14) Hanger
64
Process Flowchart of Jacket
1. Front Section
Breast Pocket
Pocket Pocket Zig- Breast Pocket Side Panel
Marking &
Welting Zag Attach
Making Buck Press
Pocket Bag
Pocket Chest Canvas Chest Canvas
Flap Making Attach &
Pressing Ready Pressing
Finish
Bottom Press
Lining A/H SH Pad Press
SS P ressing & Lapel SH Seam JOin
Attach & Fuse
Breakpoint
Inspection
65
2. Lining Section
3. Collar Section
66
4. Sleeve Section
Lining Lining
Elbow Inseam Inseam Button
Attach to Inseam
Tacking Press Close Sew
Shell Sew
Sleeve
Sleeve Sleeve
Gathering
Tacking Final Press
Stitch
Flow Chart 12: sleeve section flow
5. Assembly Section
Sleeve
Lapel Buck Sleeve A/H SH Pad
Head Roll Basting
Press Attach Pressing Attach
Attach
Lining
Sleeve Collar SH Basting
Vent Kinari A/H Close Bastingat
Kinari Topstitch At A/H
A/H
B/H &
Hanger Bartack at
Flowerhole B/H Trimming Inspection
Marking Loop B/H End
NOTE: Process flow may vary from style to style as per buyer requirements.
67
2. Waist Coat
Waistcoat was being manufactured in Line 7. Line 7 also manufactures Jackets but it depends on
the order and its quantity.
Line Executive Line Quality Manpower No. of No. of
Technician Checker Operations Machines
7 Anupam Ravindra Roja A 85 60-65 52
Kumar Kumar Reddy
Number of operations vary from style to style and also includes helping operations.
No. of Panels in a Waist Coat
Table 11: waist coat shell parts
Shell Fabric
Parts Cut Panel/s
Front 2
Side Panel 2
Front Facing 2
Welt Pocket 4
Front pocket Bone 4
Bottom Facing 2
Neck Patch 1
TOTAL 17
Table 12: waist coat lining parts
Lining Fabric
Part Cut Panel/s
Back 4
Front 2
Side body 2
Rectangular Tab 2
Triangular Tab 2
Pocket Lining 8
TOTAL 20
Total number of Panels in a Waist Coat = 37
68
Process Flow of Waistcoat:
1. Small Parts section
69
3. Lining Section
4. Assembly Section
70
3. Trouser
There were 6 trouser lines in the unit and the operation of Trousers line is categorized into three
sections:
Preparatory section
Front and back line
Assembly line.
In the preparatory section the basic parts of the garment are made and graded for the production.
Then it is send to the front and back end line where the front side and the backside of a trouser are
made and finally to the assembly line for the final assembling of the parts.
The material handling and movement in the preparatory and front & back sections is on waterfall
trolleys and the assembly lines are based on UPS system. The material flow is on manually
controlled overhead trolleys.
71
The different types of trousers made are:
Trouser with Knee Lining
Double pleated
Single pleated
Flat front
Process Flow
1. Preparatory Section
Cut & Gaze Zip Zip Attach to Fly Left Fly Binding Right Fly O/L Fuse Fly & Bone
Button Back
Bartack Run Stitch
Attach to Lock Top Pocket Pocket Stay
Back Back
Back Welt Main Label Stitch
Pocket Pocket
Pocket Attach
Left &
Seam Inseam Front Rise
SSJoin Right Fly Facing O/L
Bursting Join Serging
Attach
Flow Chart 19: front and back flow trouser
72
3. Assembly 1
Pocket
Booking & Loops & W/B Attach W/B
Loops Attach W/B Attach
Side Pocket Marking Lining
Locking
Lock W/B
Hook & Bar Attach Right
J- Stitch Press Fly Extension&
Attach Fly Lining
Turn
4. Assembly 2
73
Structure of a Sewing Line
Director
Asst. Plant
Manager
Production Production
Executive Executive
I.E I.E.
Technical
Manager
Quality
Executive
Line Incharge
Operators
74
2.4.8 FINISHING DEPARTMENT
The finishing facility at Raymond is highly mechanised with modern state of art machinery. It is
used for both jackets as well as trousers. The finishing process for jackets and trousers is as given
below:
Jacket Finishing
Mr.Deepak Kumar
(Jacket Finishing Head)
Mr.Deodutt (I.E)
Process Flow
It involves the following steps:
Auditing Packing
76
Washing of garments:
1. Tools used:
Air gun/chemical gun
Boiler water/ per-chloro ethylene/ surgical spirit.
2. Functions:
To remove white pencil mark per-chloro ethylene is used.
To remove water mark, patch mark, pen mark surgical spirit is used
Pressing:
Sleeve press
Back press
Front press
Elbow press
Shoulder press
Collar press
Nipping(under armhole press)
Blocking(outer armhole press)
Lining press
Lapel press
Packing:
Brand tag.
Size ring.
Joker tag.
Hanger sticker.
Poly bag
Sleeve label
Hang tag
Extra Buttons (2 buttons ; 1- 24L and 1- 32L)
77
TROUSER FINISHING
Mr.Sunil Kola
Trouser Finishing Head
Mr.Anappa
Supervisor
Thread Thread
Legger
Trimming sucking/Dusting
The trouser finishing department is very small as compare to jacket finishing. It includes
following sub-processes.
1. Spot cleaning
Uses spirit or per-chloro ethylene for spot cleaning purpose.
2. Legger press
3. Topper press
4. Packing
Brand tag.
Size ring
Poly bag
Bar code
Hanger
Cartons
Waistband tag
Poly bag stickers
79
2.4.9 WAREHOUSE
A ware house is the storage area for the finished goods.
Total capacity of warehouse
Total no. of workers - 18
Total capacity of jackets 62720
Total capacity of trousers not fixed, trousers entered warehouse packed in cartons, and
were kept in a specific area, no specific place was made available for it.
Machine used Bar Code Scanner.
Total No. Of Racks - 23
Warehouse Department Structure
warehouse
Incharge
assistant
warehouse
incharge
Quality audit
Dispatch
81
2.4.10 QUALITY ASSURANCE
Quality Assurance department has its presence in every stage of the production. The Quality
Assurance Departments function starts with receipt of the fabric that is, once the fabric and trims
reaches the stores the quality of the fabric and trims are checked. The operation continues
throughout the cutting and sewing processes. After each section the quality checks are done and
in the finishing department a detailed quality check is done and is sent for alteration in case of any
defects, finally approve the trousers and jackets for packing.
Organization Chart
Cutting
Mubharak
Jacket Sewing
R. K. Das
Trouser Sewing
Debsopan
Jacket Finishing
Nikhil/Deodutt
Trouser Finishing
Ram
Flow Chart 29: quality organizational chart
QC IN STORES
Quality in store
83
Quality in Cutting
Quality in Fusing
Quality in fusing
To check sorting
84
Quality in sewing
Quality in sewing
Quality in finishing
Quality in finishing
85
Quality Parameters to Be Followed At Final Checking
Jacket Front
Jacket back:
1. Collar at the back should be checked for balance, matching and setting.
2. The shoulder should be checked for puckering and looseness.
3. There should not be any wrinkle at the under arm.
4. Sleeve elbow stitch and in seam are to be checked for proper fullness.
5. Button stitch and placement is to be checked.
6. Balance and fullness is to be checked in the vent(s).
7. Good shape and silhouette is required at the hip area in the back.
86
8. Bottom hem line should be beautiful and pucker less.
9. Back side seam should be checked for puckering.
10. The centre back line is to be checked for puckering.
Jacket inside:
87
2.4.11 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
Grade change
Line balancing
88
Organisational structure of IE
Mr.Raghvendra
Kulkarni
IE HEAD
CUTTING SEWING
Ms.Priyanshi
Jacket Trouser
Singh
89
Work of IE during Order Procurement
On order confirmation,IED
prepares Operation Bulletin
Sends requirement of
operators , machines &
folders to PPC .
Requirement of
machines,folders & guides
sent to Maintenance dept.
90
Skill Matrix Updation & Daily Production Report
Besides, the IED maintains the skill inventory which is updated every month.
IED also keeps a track on the hourly production and maintains the daily WIP report and daily
production report which is sent to the PPC department.
Apart from this the IED also takes care of the work methods that are being used on the floor.
Besides, the IED also plans and balances the line on a daily basis keeping the absenteeism and
other factors in consideration.
Raymond also has their own intranet which connects all the computers in that network. All the
data is stored in their database called ITPC and for mailing purposes employees were using Office
Outlook.
92
2.4.13 TRAINING DEPARTMENT
Unit have their own training department named as RTI (Raymond Training Institute.) This
department falls under the HR section. The RTI is a new initiative of Raymond unit. Through this
they try to improve the skills of operators without hampering the output of the factory. In Raymond
they train the employees in such a way that they achieve the desired output.
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There were various stages of the RTI session, they are as follows:
STAGE I
At this stage, the newly joined operators are first trained with minimum language skills like the
basis English alphabets and numbers. They are also taught Basic English sentences like saying
their name, what work they are doing, how much they have made and how much they will make.
In this they are also teach the hygiene and safety issues.
STAGE II
In the second stage the operators perform paper exercises. In this they are provided papers with
different patterns made on it. The operators have to stitch as per the patterns on the paper. This is
done in order to improve the operators control on the machine. These paper exercises are
evaluated by the training in- charge and based on the performance operators were given
promotions.
STAGE III
In this stage the operators stitch on fabric. Different patterns are made on the fabric and operators
have to stitch accordingly. If the in- charge finds that any operator is well skilled then they are
forwarded to the next stage.
STAGE IV
In this stage, operators are taught to handle different types of fabrics and also different types of
special and automatic machines. In this stage the trainees are also made to observe the operators
working in the line.
STAGE V
In this stage, operators are on job training on any critical operation based on requirement like Zig
Zag, blind hem, sleeve attach, bar tack, differential feed, basting etc.
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Pre Recruitment Tests
Before recruiting operators, they came across by some of the tests like:
Colour
Blindness test
Hand Movement test
Written Test
To check the ability of the Hand and Arm movements, two hands co-ordination test is done.
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The paper exercise on which the trainee stitch on the papers to learn the straight stitch, curve stitch,
and corner stitches.
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After learning the paper stitch, fabric exercise starts and in which trainee learn to stitch on
the fabric for the same.
After completion of paper and fabric exercise, trainees construct the uniform of different
colour. Actually these uniforms are colour coding for the different departments.
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2.4.14 HR / ADMIN
HR Department can be termed as the mother of any organization. It takes care of all the employee
related activities, that is the recruitment, selection, induction, training, remunerations, provident
fund, gratuity, ESI and so on the administration department takes care of the transportation, guest
accommodation and other industrial relation activities like dealing with the labour department,
pollution control board, local jurisdiction, municipal works etc.
Recruitment is done by aptitude tests. It is done in the local language. While the employees are
recruited in they are to produce the documents regarding the age proof, PF nomination, gratuity
nomination, ESI nomination and employable certificate. The induction and the training are given
to every recruited employee on the tailoring machines. Theyre also certain task force training also
given for the members of the task force.
The administrative block of Raymond ltd is situated after the finishing floor and next to the
warehouse.
It has an IT server room, a conference room and various cabins for the higher officials purposes
of the factory. The Wi-Fi of the unit was maintained from this block. The administrative block
also had a pantry in it with all food and wash-room facilities. The block was enthralling to eye as
it had to welcome the buyers for the factory. It is a very well maintained and easily accessible to
all. Even an operator can approach anybody in the administration without any problem. This makes
the operators feel like a family and they do not feel discarded.
Objectives:
To maintain the personnel documents.
To ensure employees benefits timely
To recruit new staff, employees etc.
To receive and solve employees grievances
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Organization structure
HR Manager
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2.4.15 MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
The department is responsible for all the maintenance activities in the organization. This
department does all sorts of maintenance, the machine maintenance, utility equipment
maintenance, and other maintenance in the lines.
Preventive Maintenance:
Preventive maintenance is a schedule of planned maintenance actions aimed at the prevention of
breakdowns and failures. The primary goal of preventive maintenance is to prevent the failure of
equipment before it actually occurs. It is designed to preserve and enhance equipment reliability
by replacing worn components before they actually fail.
Organizational Chart
Maintenance
Head
Store In Floor
Charge Incharge
Operators Technicians
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CHAPTER 3
PLANT LAYOUT
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3.1 BUILDING SHED
The dimensions of the building shed are 250m X 63m X 8.8m.
The whole of shop floor is divided in three equal bays of 21 m each and the apart from the
two side ends, pillars support the structure and are placed at the meeting point of two
adjacent bays. These pillars are spaced at 8.04 in length.
The area details are as follows:
Table 13: floor area
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3.2 MANPOWER
Table 14: manpower
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3.3 MACHINE
MACHINE DETAILS
No.
No.of
S.No. TYPE MAKE/MODEL of S.No. TYPE MAKE /MODEL
M/C
M/C
SEWING DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
1 PFAFF-1483 144 37 Flatbed basting PFAFF - 1243 9
HIGH LEAD
38 Auto Dart 3
2 SNLS( drop feed) With GK00-58 4 PFAFF- 3519
UBT DURKOPP
HIGH LEAD 39 Auto Facing ADLER 271-992- 6
3 GC188MD 12 001
DURKOPP
40 Auto Welting ADLER 745 14
4 SNLS( needle feed) PFAFF-1481 40 PREMIUM
With UBT DURKOP
ADLER 220-5300 41 Auto Serging DURKOP ADLER 4
5 NR 12 1465-4
DURKOPP
SNLS( differential
ADLER 275-140- 42 4
feed) With UBT
6 342 44 MAIER D-73253
DURKOPP
ADLER 697-151- 43 Blind Hem MAIER-251-12- 3
7 55 15 46-D
DURKOPP
SNLS( unison feed)
ADLER 697-241- 44 1
With UBT
8 55 3 STROBEL
DURKOPP
ADLER 550-16- 45 6
9 26 15 WEISHI AZT-B46
10 PFAFF-3822 9 46 WEISHI AZT-C10 3
SNLS EDGE DURKOPP
CUTTER BUCK
ADLER 272-740- 47 WEISHI AZT- 18
11 642 3 C26A
SNLS FLAP Making JUKI- DDL-8700-
48 22
12 with LOIVA MJ-3400 7 4 WEISHI AZT-O18
13 NIKATA 4 49 WEISHI AZT-C36 18
DNLS Ordinary BUCK BOTTOM
50 3
14 TYPICAL 4 PRESS MACPI -362.00
BUCK FLAP
51 TURNING & 2
15 PFAFF-2438 3 PRESSING M/C MACPI-144.00
BUCK SHOULDER
52 3
16 PFAFF-3704 2 PAD FUSING M/C WEISHI AZT-F65
ZIGZAG WEISHI YTP-
53 22
17 PFAFF-918 3 W28
FIT
WEISHI YTP-
54 31
18 PFAFF-937 3 W28B
FIT SHAPED WEISHI YTP-
55 20
19 PFAFF-983 3 IRONING TABLE W20
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20 PFAFF-3801 6 56 FUSING MACHINE WEISHI NHJ-Q-B 2
SNCS PFAFF-3801(with
57 ZIP CUTTER 1
21 tape feed) 3 YKK-E-78000
SLIDER &
58 STOPPER YKK 4
22 DNCS TYPICAL 4 attachment
HIGH LEAD FLAT BED FUSING
59 KANNEGIESSAR 1
23 GK00-58-3 8 MACHINE
24 3TH. O/L TOYOTA EK1-3 1 CUTTING DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
TYPICAL -GN-
4TH. O/L Ordinary 1 STRAIGHT KNIFE EASTMAN 2
25 2000-4 1
26 5TH. O/L JUKI MO-6716S 35 2 BAND KNIFE WASTEMA 6
KANSAI
Flat Lock SPECIAL-B- 3 ROUND KNIFE EASTMAN 10
27 2000C 1
DURKOPP
ADLER 510 4 GERBER 4
28 Bartack PREMIUM 22 CAM
BROTHER BF-
5 MORGAN 1
29 438D 1
30 Button sew C/S PFAFF-3307 3 FUSING -- DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
BROTHER BE- FLAT CONT.
1 KANNEGIESSER 7
31 438C 1 FUSING
Button sew L/S DURKOPP
ADLER 530 FINISHING - - DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
32 PREMIUM 9
DURKOPP
ADLER 580 1 VACCUM TABLE WEISHI 26
33 Button hole PREMIUM 10
AMF REECE-S- STAIN REMOVING
2 MACPI 10
34 4000 2 W/S
35 Button wrapping LOIVA ST-10 8 3 BUCK WEISHI 55
HENGTAI GL- DUSTING
Pick stitch 4 RAMSON 3
36 798A 15 MACHINE
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