KOREA Magazine (September 2010 VOL. 6 NO. 9)

표지최종 2010.8.
30 4:30 PM 페이지 1 Mac-2 in T C M Y K
People & Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010
September 2010 www.korea.net
orea
K erbal’s
onv
N ormance
Perf
www.korea.net
ISSN: 2005-2162
prelude표2대면 2010.8.30 4:29 PM 페이지 1 Mac-2 in T C M Y K
PRELUDE
The Beauty of Korea Salterns, or salt farms, are

spread along Korea’s west coast. Sinan (pictured on this
page) and Yeonggwang in Jeollanam-do Province are
especially well-known for cheonilyeom, or sun-dried salt,
famed for having the best in taste any salt produced in
Korea. Korean salterns, dating from the late Joseon Dynasty
in the 19th century, were included on UNESCO’s Tentative
List of World Heritage sites in January 2010.
ⓒ Choi Ji-young
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CONTENTS
SEPTEMBER 2010 VOL. 6 NO. 9
COVER STORY 04 PEN & BRUSH 16 PEOPLE 20

With no language barriers between cast Though in her early 40s, Ha Sung-ran is as Three decades overseas haven’t dimmed
and audience, “non-verbal performances” youthful a writer as ever. Using delicate yet Kim Young-hee’s love for Korea. Her
Jump and Nanta have taken Korea’s tradi- detailed prose, she evokes feelings of loss artwork displays a formidable talent,
tional rhythms into the global mainstream. and love with extraordinary vivacity. inspired by a sharp sense of nostalgia.
9월호목차 2010.8.30 4:28 PM 페이지 2 Mac-2 in T C M Y K
PEOPLE 24 MY KOREA 32 NOW IN KOREA 44

Earlier this year, women’s football was As Thanksgiving is to Americans, chuseok Often imitated but never bettered, Heyri is
virtually unknown in Korea. One success- is to Koreans. For one foreign resident, the Korea’s most vibrant artists’ village. With
ful tournament later, and the national ancient rituals opened a window to the an enchanting mix of artworks, nature and
team have entered the limelight. country’s soul. architecture, Heyri is a true oasis of art.
TRAVEL 26 SPECIAL FEATURE: 36

Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, G20 REPORT
Hahoe Folk Village shows a Korea long In the first of a four-part series, KOREA
gone: old-style houses, mask dances, and examines the significance of hosting the
the guiding hand of Confucianism. forthcoming G20 Summit in Seoul.
PUBLISHER Seo Kang-soo,

Korean Culture and Information Service
EDITING HEM KOREA Co., Ltd

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04-15 cover story 2010.8.30 4:15 PM 페이지 1 Mac-2 in T C M Y K
COVER STORY
KOREA’S
NON
VERBAL
PERFORMANCE
In the late 1990s, a new genre was born in
Korean theaters. Though the name initially
sounded, within 10 years “non-verbal
performances” grew up to become a central
pillar of Korean theater. It introduced the
world, and much of Korea, to the dynamism
of the people and modern culture. Now, a
successful decade later, non-verbal
performance continues to expand the
possibilities for performing art. by Jang Say
ⓒ PMC Production
A typically boisterous scene from Nanta.

ⓒ PMC Production (above); Yegam Inc. (left)

It can last anywhere between an hour and 90 minutes. For

that time, all you can hear from the stage is the sound of
heavy breathing, Korean words and occasional shrieks. Some
of the words are then translated into English for the benefit
of foreigners in the audience. But as for dialogue, that’s pretty
much it. All the rest of the hilarity comes via the actors’
motions, outlandish facial expressions, and interaction with
an invariably game audience.
In what has come to be known as “non-verbal
performance,” the actors communicate in a wordless
language, making it possible to reach out to all cultures and
appeal to audiences around the world. Because the
performances are inspired by elements of traditional Korean
culture, that communication retains the ability to teach
foreign viewers about Korea itself.
Here, we meet the people who took this distinctly Korean,
yet profoundly universal form, beyond national borders. We
also get a sneak peek of upcoming non-verbal shows and
delve into what the future is.
THE LEGEND OF NANTA In Korean, nanta means “to strike

violently,” but today, the word has become synonymous with
the smash-hit show of the same name. Before Nanta debuted
in 1997, the most popular Korean shows among foreigners
Cast members from Nanta play with fire (opposite top). It doesn’t
were pansori, or traditional narrative song, and gugak, Korean take long to work out why this show is called Jump (opposite
classical music. There were, of course, successful modern bottom). Nanta’s spirit comes from rhythms played in unlikely
settings – even on chopping boards (above, below). Jump keeps
plays or other non-musical performances, but thy were the audience laughing from the beginning to end (bottom).
almost entirely limited to speakers of Korean.
So when Nanta came along, it caused a sensation. Apart
from conventional dance performances and mimes, shows
without dialogue were completely unknown in Korea. For
this reason, neither the producers nor the audiences really
knew how it would go across. But within just a few perform-
ances, word of mouth about Nanta had reached fever pitch,
and the show became a smash hit.
From the beginning, audiences marveled at this enthralling
ⓒ PMC Production (right top, middle); Yegam Inc. (right bottom)
new genre, with many returning to see it time and again. “I’ve
never seen anything like this,” became the standard refrain. If
you asked them what it was about, they’d often reply that the
story wasn’t really the point.
The main characters in Nanta are a master chef who can’t
face up to his manager, a male chef who tries to rely on his
sex appeal rather than his cooking, and a female chef whose
youthful looks belie a deep inner strength. While working in
their kitchen one day, the manager bursts in and gives them
just one hour to prepare for a previously unannounced ban-
quet. Worse, he saddles them with his troublemaking nephew.
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 07
proved such a hit wherever it has played.

PMC Production, which produced Nanta, says that it had
international markets in mind from the outset, and the show
continues to play to packed houses overseas. To satisfy
enthusiasm, PMC now plans to build a resident theater for
Nanta somewhere else in Asia, as well. None of this has
detracted from a focus on the domestic market. PMC says
it’s trying to make more use of its own theater in Seoul, while
also commissioning a new score for the whole production.
Using this background music, a renowned Korean musical
director added stronger beats and accentuated the Korean
sounds. Highlights of the show, such as the striking of the
chopping boards, the cooking elements and conclusion, have
been rendered richer and more colorful.
Having taken Nanta around the world, PMC is now
gearing up for a second act. As with Nanta, the company is
looking close to home for inspiration. TAAL, a visual per-
formance, draws on the Hahoe Masks of Andong, where the
show is being staged this month. Produced in collaboration
with the Korean musical company, Creative Team, TAAL
shows there is plenty of inspiration left in PMC yet.
JUMP INTO ANOTHER WORLD Jump, the other great non-

verbal success, combines the comedic, live-wire action seen
A scene from Jump features dynamic martial arts performances
(above). Fanta-Stick combines non-verbal performance with Korean in Nanta, with Korean martial arts. As with Nanta, the tradi-
classical music, gugak (opposite). tion has been given a distinctly theatrical spin. Drawing on
taekwondo and the lesser-known martial art taekkyeon, Jump
throws in acrobatics, dance moves, and slapstick to create a
In the ensuing melee, the chefs dash around the kitchen, form that producers refer to as “extreme martial arts.” The
clattering pots, banging drums, and chopping food in time to fluid, creative yet graceful, nature of these moves is a
pulsating rhythms. Through it all, as they rush to get every- constant throughout the entire show.
thing done, the nephew causes all sorts of mishaps, bringing “In the middle of the night, two thieves climb over the
the three chefs no end of comic anguish. fence of a home, only to discover that they’ve run into a
Throughout the action, hardly a single word is uttered. Yet family of martial artists,” runs the tagline for Jump, covering
the audience is often doubled up with laughter, a sense of the whole plot. Within this simple framework, however, can
tension growing palpable as the deadline nears. With only be found a doddery grandfather with hidden strengths, and a
five actors on stage, Nanta packs all the dynamism of a show seemingly ordinary middleaged couple with slick moves of ⓒ Yegam inc. (above left); KJ Ent & Haera Inc. (opposite)
with a cast 10 times its size. their own. In one scene, the couple begins dancing a tango
With rhythms borrowed from the traditional Korean and ends up fighting a battle, neatly showing just how flexible
percussive form samulnori, Nanta’s drumbeats provide the and inventive the show is. Also inside the house, an uncle
energy underpinning this live-wire show. The wonderful grabs a bottle of booze and gives his best impression of Jackie
choreography, the pulsating interplay between the cast, and Chan in Drunken Master. Each character toys with the others,
the seemingly irregular rhythms all serve to keep the showing off masterful skills in the process. By combining
performance compelling from beginning to end. Though extraordinary physical action with moments of suspense,
based on traditional rhythms, the backing track is so joyful Jump manages to keep you laughing and on the edge of your
and accessible that even first-time listeners can’t help but be seat at the same time.
carried away by it. And this is precisely why Nanta has Yegam, the company behind Jump, came up with the idea
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
08 2010
after mulling how they could incorporate taekwondo into a around the world. It was a breath of fresh air for a dance
stage performance. In early versions of the show, convention- world that had, in some countries, seemed to run out of new
al acting played a big part, but as time progressed, martial ideas. It became a social and commercial phenomenon that
arts came to the fore. even business figures and politicians paid attention to.
Success came quickly, but Yegam wasn’t prepared to sit President Lee Myung-bak, the prime minister, cabinet minis-
back and relax. It began changing and improving the show ters and legislators have all attended the show, as have leaders
almost immediately, and has continued to do so ever since. In in education and religion.
practically every show, the actors ad-lib lines and try out The plot is very straightforward. On a street where a ballet
slightly different moves. This keeps the performance fresh hall is located, some breakdancers set up a square where they
and interesting, prompting spectators to return for repeated can practice, leading to friction between the b-boys and the
viewings. eponymous ballerina. As time passes, however, the ballerina
In its early days, Jump received numerous and often unfa- falls for one of the b-boys and chooses to become a street
vorable comparisons with foreign martial arts shows, but as dancer instead. Though choosing life on the opposite end of
time went by, it gained recognition for being something
entirely unique. In a run that has continued virtually unbro-
ken since its debut, Jump has played in 40 towns and cities
around Korea and, after being named an “excellent perform-
ance” by the Korea Cultural & Arts Centers Association, it will
tour more than 40 more venues this year. Jump now has two
dedicated theaters in Seoul alone, and two more each in
Busan, Korea and New York, the US. It has filled theaters in
Britain, Greece, Japan, Taiwan, Malaysia, Singapore and
Australia. Last year, Jump played its 5,000th show, a feat for
which it was awarded the 2009 Korea Contents Awards.
As with Nanta, what makes Jump’s success particularly
gratifying is that it embraced Korean cultural sentiment and
took it around the world. The hope now is that people who
danced to these ancient samulnori rhythms will go on to take
a wider interest in Korean culture. Whether they do or not,
Nanta and Jump have shown that Korean shows can have a
universal appeal, a crucial stepping stone for Korean compa-
nies as they spread out into the world.
THE GROWING VOICE OF NON-VERBAL PERFORMANCE

Following in the footsteps of Nanta and Jump, Ballerina Who
Loves B-Boy played 30 shows at the 2007 Edinburgh Festival
Fringe. A huge success, it was designated the top production
among that year’s 2,050 shows by The Scotsman newspaper.
The show has since enjoyed an illustrious, if short, history: it
has played 40 times on Broadway, drawn more than 800,000
viewers in four years; and will take up residency in a special
theater in Beijing this October.
Initially derided as little more than coarse street culture, b-
boys are now at the forefront of Korea’s performance culture.
Ballerina Who Loves B-Boy took this critical rehabilitation
even further by melding breakdancing with ballet, a combi-
nation that sent shockwaves through theaters in Korea and
the spectrum and giving up something she had been doing

since childhood, the ballerina achieves genuine happiness.
The story is designed as a wake-up call to the many of us who
don’t recognize just what it is our loved ones want, as well as
those of us who forget out true dreams.
In stark contrast to the b-boys, ballet has long been the
preserve of the cultural elite. The genius of Ballerina Who
Loves B-Boy was that it brought these two disparate genres
together, opening each up to the other’s audience. Yet in mar-
rying breakdancing and ballet, Ballerina Who Loves B-Boy
didn’t just showcase the two styles, it created a new one.
Producing a kind of Jekyll and Hyde hybrid, the show man-
aged the fine balance between ballet and breakdancing, and
enjoyed a hugely successful run as a result.
More recently, Fanta-Stick, a live music show incorporating
gugak, is another hugely enjoyable non-verbal performance.
Mixing the ancient Korean fable Jamyeonggo Tales with
Shakespeare’s classic Romeo and Juliet, Fanta-Stick delivers a
riveting re-interpretation of traditional forms, including
pansori, violins and percussion.
“Masterpiece Drawing,” one of many artistic moments from
Drawing Show (top). Ballerina Who Loves B-Boy is a compelling
The excitement in Fanta-Stick is built around the live
combination of non-verbal performance, ballet and b-boy dance music performances. Virtuosos in percussion, pansori and
(above, opposite bottom). A scene from Fanta-Stick (below).
“Light Drawing,” one of the performances of Drawing Show, the violin all have key roles in the show, and all the music is
features several dazzling scenes (opposite top). performed right before the viewers’ eyes. In addition, Fanta-
Stick covers all genres — from pop to gugak — meaning there
is something for every kind of music fan.
Drawing Show, a so-called “picture concert,” is a non-verbal
performance detailing the magical process of how a piece of
art comes to life. Combining art, theater, and musical, it
ⓒ Pentatonic Inc. (top, opposite top); Showbboy (middle, opposite bottom); KJ Ent & Haera Inc. (left)
introduces original artistic concepts, including sculpture,
frottage and marblework. During the creation of the art
work, an image in the painting might change into something
completely different, or a new picture may be added. At one
point, a crying statue of Korean military hero Yi Sun-sin is
used to convey Koreans’ anguish over the fire that engulfed
Namdaemun, an ancient gate in Seoul. The high-speed
drawing and changes to the pictures occur right before the
audience’s eyes, letting imaginations run riot. All the draw-
ings have an element of magic to them.
With its long and rich history, Korean culture offers a
wealth of material that can be channeled into stage
performances. Samulnori in Nanta and taekwondo and
taekkyeon in Jump are only two examples. The genre of non-
verbal performance in Korea is blessed with a sea of other
sources from which to choose, spanning music, dance,
martial arts and art. Finding out where it will be go next will
be just as exciting as attending one of the shows.
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
10 2010
COVER STORY
Song Seung-hwan, head of PMC Production
From the beginning, Nanta was created with overseas mar-

PIONEERS OF kets in mind. In the mid 1990s, when Nanta was written, the
home market was fairly small and success was far from cer-
KOREAN tain, so it is made sense for an ambitious producer to create a

work with something with international appeal. Still, there
NON-VERBAL were no guarantees with an untried genre like non-verbal

performance. But Song Seung-hwan, the producer of the
PERFORMANCE show, overcame potential difficulties with originality, deter-

mination, and an excellent storyline.
“We wanted to create a drama where we could clearly deliv-
Song Seung-hwan, head of PMC er our story,” Song says. “Thanks to the perfect performances
Production and creator of the mega- of our actors, we were able to overcome the disadvantages of
hit show Nanta, and Kim Kyung-hun, non-verbal performances. Because there is no dialogue, any-
CEO of Yegam Inc., the company that one can watch our show and laugh.”
Jump faced similar problems, but Kim Kyung-hun, CEO of
produced Jump, recently sat down
Yegam Inc., turned those challenges into strengths by focus-
with KOREA to discuss the success of ing on motion.
Korean non-verbal performance, their “Motions aren’t constrained by language. Actually, move-
vision, and where, after years of huge ment is a form of language in which everyone in the world
success, they plan to go next. can communicate,” says Kim. “But it’s still very difficult to do
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
12 2010
comedy without dialogue using just martial arts, acrobatics, Both companies are also working on follow ups to their hit
gymnastics, and straight acting. By doing Jump, we realized productions. PMC has been trying out several new shows,
actions were what brought us closer to the audience.” including The CAR and TAAL. Later next year, Yegam plans to
Both Nanta and Jump incorporate non-verbal elements of tour a new martial arts blockbuster a similar to Jump. Called
traditional Korean culture. For its show of chefs banging out Break Out, the show, which incorporates elements of b-boy
pulsating rhythms using kitchen utensils, Nanta drew inspira- dancing and hip hop music, has already previewed to good
tion from a traditional Korean percussive form samulnori. reviews.
Jump uses elements of the Korean martial arts taekwondo “As with Nanta and Jump, we have to keep developing cre-
and taekkyeon with joyous Korean music in the background. ative and original content,” Song says. “Rather than going
With the exception of taekwondo, none of these forms are with what’s hot at the moment, you have to develop new con-
well known outside Korea, but all were crucial in creating the tent and keep making necessary changes to pursue a long-
shows’ successes. term project. If you stick only to what’s distinctively Korean,
Besides their embrace of traditional Korean culture, the you may not win over too many fans outside the country. So
other key part of the shows’ long-term success, Song says, has it’s important to have some universal values.”
been their decision to open up their own resident theaters. “Quality and originality are essential elements,” says Kim,
“We opened the theater in 2000 and we’ve been performing echoing Song’s ideas. “You also have to find a common sensi-
there ever since,” he said. “I think that was the biggest key to bility that everyone in the world can relate to.”
our success. The show itself is important but stability from With Nanta and Jump, Song and Kim achieved exactly that.
the specialized theaters has produced synergy effects. We can Wherever they go next in search of those universal values, it
host foreign tourists at the same venue and we’ve been able to promises to be an exciting ride.
maintain partnerships with many travel agencies.”
The huge success of Nanta and Jump has done much to
Kim Kyung-hun, CEO of Yegam Inc.
heighten the profile of Korea overseas. This hasn’t necessarily
led to increased knowledge of the country’s culture, as Song
discovered when pitching Nanta to a foreign buyer a few
years ago.
“He said to me, ‘You perform in Korea?’ There are three
things I know about Korea: North Korea, South Korea and
the DMZ,’” recalls Song. “And things aren’t that much differ-
ent today. According to a 2009 study by Korea Brand and the
Korea Trade-Investment Promotion Agency, people in
America and Europe still mostly associate Korea with the
Korean War and North Korean nuclear issues.”
“If you look at Asia, it’s more encouraging,” Song adds.
“There are still remnants of Hallyu [the “Korean Wave” of
popular culture that swept across the region] in Asia. If we
keep our focus on countries where people are more positive
about our culture, then it could ultimately have a great effect
on Korea’s national brand and recognition.”
ⓒ PMC Production (opposite); Yegam Inc. (right)
The first step to further enhancing Nanta’s standing over-

seas, Song says, is to open specialized theaters in Asia, and
then to try and elevate the show to the level of long-running
Broadway hits such as The Lion King. Jump is also trying to
reach more foreign fans. Through the second half of 2010,
Yegam has planned 25 shows in 13 Chinese cities. They are
also hoping to open up specialized theaters — in the US,
Japan, China and Singapore.
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 13
COVER STORY
FOR KOREAN
SHOWS,
ALL THE WORLD
IS A STAGE
Nanta, which kick-started the genre of
“non-verbal performances,” wowed audi-
ences at the Edinburgh Festival Fringe in
Scotland, before taking New York by
storm. Jump also played to packed houses
in Edinburgh and now has its very own
resident theater on Broadway. This is the
story of two boisterous shows born in
Korea, but now very much a part of the
world stage.
When Nanta first traveled to play the Edinburgh Festival

Fringe in Scotland in 1999, the company felt an equal
measure of excitement and concern. Though a huge hit in
Korea since debuting in 1997, Nanta hadn’t played outside
the country before, and no one could be sure that its
live-wire mix of acrobatics, and percussion — all set in a
Korean kitchen — would capture the imagination of foreign
audiences.
In order to perform in Edinburgh, Song Seung-hwan, the
show’s producer, had reached deep into his own pockets, in
addition borrowing 100 million won (US$85,000) from a
friend. Though proclaiming his confidence that Nanta would
be a hit, he kept the loan a secret from his wife. Song had
everything riding on the success of the show. In the end, he
needn’t have worried.
Nanta was an instant smash at Edinburgh, drawing reviews
that were as ecstatic as the crowds who came to see it. Deals
were signed to take Nanta to other theaters, and Song was
soon able to repay his debt. Such was its success that the next
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
14 2010
year, tour groups of Japanese students were traveling to Korea

specifically to see it. Within months, Nanta had opened its
own purpose-built venue.
Nanta was performed during the opening ceremony for the
14th Asian Games in Busan in 2002, instantly elevating it to
the status of Korea’s signature show. The following year,
Nanta’s astonishing run of success continued when it became
the first ever Asian show to have its own theater off-
Broadway. To date, Nanta has been staged in 250 cities in 40
countries, becoming one of the most successful ambassadors
for Korean culture that the country has ever seen. Its travels
have taken it across Asia, Europe, the United States, South
America, and Oceania. In visiting Tunisia in 2009, Nanta had
played all six continents.
Despite Nanta’s success, it
Jump’s resident theater in New
didn’t inspire an immediate York (opposite). Festival-goers in
Edinburgh check out a poster
legion of imitators. But just as advertising Nanta (above). A Jump
people began to think the actor goes airborne (far left). A
seasonal poster for Nanta (left).
appeal of the non-verbal
performance was a flash-in-
the-pan, along came Jump.
Arriving seemingly from out of
nowhere, Jump — a frenetic
show about a family of martial
arts experts defending their
home from burglars — followed
a similarly astronomical
trajectory, from debuting in
2003 to opening its own theater in Seoul in 2006 and another first Asian show to perform at the Royal Variety Show, an
on Broadway in 2007. annual performance put on for Britain’s royal family. If any-
Today, Jump has two venues in Seoul and one each in thing, Jump’s success exceeded that of the wildly popular
Busan and New York. In a first for this kind of show, the 500- Nanta, and confirmed non-verbal performance as a major
seat New York theater was opened under license to CAMI international attraction.
(Columbia Artists Management Inc), one of the world’s From mid-2006 to mid-2007, Jump was performed in 16
largest show management companies, which pays royalties to cities in 12 nations, raking in US$1.1 million. In an unprece-
ⓒ Yegam Inc. (opposite, above left); PMC Production (top, above right)
Jump’s creators. dented event for a theater production, Jump also won the
On first performing in New York, Jump soon caught the Export Tower Honors, awarded by the Korea International
attention of The New York Times, The New York Post and CBS. Trade Association to highly successful exporters, along with
It has played during halftime at an NBA basketball game, and US$1 million in prize money.
it counts Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie among the thousands In 2003, when the Korean theater market was growing,
of people to have seen it. In March 2003, the Broadway show Jump embarked on wildly successful world tours — taking in
marked its 200th performance. Israel, Spain, Japan, Singapore, China, Thailand, South Africa,
In 2005 and 2006, Jump played the Edinburgh Festival Russia, United Arab Emirates, Malaysia and France — and
Fringe, where it received a Sell-out Show Award — given to opened purpose-built theaters on its way to becoming a
all productions that sell out every performance — and bona-fide cultural phenomenon. As it continues to entice
became the first Korean show to win the Comedy Award and crowds around the globe, the future for Jump and its produc-
Cavalcade Best Walking Group prize. Jump later became the tion company Yegam can only get better.
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 15
16-19 pen&brush 2010.8.30 4:17 PM 페이지 16 Mac-2 in T C M Y K
PEN & BRUSH
AMAZING
STORIES
ABOUT TRIVIAL
THINGS In her 15 years as a novelist, Ha Sung-ran
has looked to catch her readers off-guard
with stories about ordinary people facing
extraordinary events. Yet in taking nine
years to publish her most recent work, A,
she says she merely wanted to use “stan-
dard tactics.” KOREA met with Ha to find
out just what her standard tactics are.
by Chun So-hyeon | photographs by Kim Nam-heon
ung-ran
Ha S
With 15 years of writing experience under her belt, Ha

Sung-ran is one of Korea’s best-known novelists. When
asked where she puts herself in the Korean literary
firmament, she replies, “Me? I’m just a young writer.”
For Ha, being called “young” is the highest compliment
you can pay an author because it signals, she says, a dash
of unpredictability and the power to question the most
basic tenets of life.
“When a writer considers herself old, she can’t write
anything more.” Though now in her early 40s, Ha acts
more freely, retaining that liberty of youth.
DISCOVERING HER FREEDOM Yet for one so “young,” Ha

has had more than her share of life-altering experiences.
In 1996, after 10 years of writing, the 29-year-old Ha had
her first child and also officially rid herself of the tag
“would-be writer” after winning the Seoul Sinmun (daily
newspaper) Annual Spring Literary Contest for her short
story Grass.
With this success, Ha also became prolific. In the
following years, she won a string of awards, including the
Dongin Literary Award, the Hankook Ilbo (daily
newspaper) Literary Award and the Contemporary
Literature Prize (or Hyundae Munhak Award), for works
such as Rubin’s Glass, Girl Next Door, and Heroine of My
Movie. For people suddenly thrust into fame,
the challenge of finding new material can be
overpowering. Throughout her career, Ha has somehow
managed to retain her striking knack for portraying
special takes on stories from everyday life.
Many consider Ha’s latest work, A, to mark a turning
point in her career. Quite apart from taking her nine years
to complete, Ha says that her first book since turning 40
does convey a new, inner maturity.
“The motif for this novel was the ‘Odaeyang Incident,’
which I had been planning to write for 13 years. But if I
had written the novel back then, when I was more
preoccupied with generating attention for my work, I
would have focused on the plot alone, and I wouldn’t
have been able to get a proper feel for the characters,”
says Ha. “Now I feel as if I’m completely free from the
gaze of others. That is what I have been doing for the
past 15 years, freeing myself.”
Taking place in 1987, the Odaeyang Incident was the
mass death, officially deemed suicide, of a group of over
30 members of a religious cult. Ha’s novel A draws
parallels between the Odaeyang Incident and a female
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
18 2010
community raising their children free from the

institutions of marriage and traditional family structures.
In using an incident that so shocked her, Ha is issuing a
stinging critique of the problems of marriage and
communities of women.
ELABORATE DEPICTIONS However, Ha delivers her short

stories in a rather different vein from her novels. Ever
since studying writing and entering the annual spring
literary contest at her high school, Ha has made it a habit
to closely observe the people and fleeting situations she
encounters. To adapt Descartes’ classic formulation, Ha’s
motto could be “I see therefore I am.”
With short stories such as Mold Flowers and Girl Next
Door, we can see why Ha’s style is sometimes called
“micro-depiction.” Mold Flowers, a short story about a
man who goes through the trash of his apartment
complex neighbors, describes the garbage in such detail
that readers with a weak stomach may need to pause
before proceeding. Girl Next Door depicts the destruction
of an ordinary housewife’s life using the present
continuous form, giving readers the feeling that they are
witnessing the process first-hand.
“I needed a new writing style. Not a descriptive style
of writing, but a more unfamiliar style to deliver the
problems of solitude and the difficulty of communica- SAPPORO INN
tion,” says Ha. > Language Chinese
> Publisher Shanghai Literature Publications
“A present continuous form with a micro-managed (Shanghai, China)
style of writing actually hinders reading. However, an > Published 2009
unpleasant and detached style of writing is effective in
Serialized online 10 years ago, Sapporo Inn has distinct
getting your point across. Rubin’s Glass was where I shades of Ha Sung-ran’s style in that the characters are
experimented with this style of writing, depicting each faced with detachment and are described indifferently,
scene independently, as if each was a photograph.” yet with an undertone of sympathy and warmth. The
writer does not try to help the reader understand the
Though Ha may always be best known for her micro- work, instead of offering a meticulously lifelike telling
depiction, she is acutely aware of her image and doesn’t of the main character’s journeys. In this novel, after
want to be pigeonholed. Repeating an experiment she has losing her younger twin brother Seonmyeong in a car
accident, Jinmyeong starts hearing the voice of
undertaken before, she is currently serializing a new a man named “Goske.” Before his
version of her novella Fox Girl, which was first death, Seonmyeong hid four
published 10 years ago. In the updated story, Ha has small bells, which Jinmyeong
sets out to find the last bell at
changed the novel into a description of Korean history the Sapporo Inn. On her way, by
through the eyes of the legendary Gumiho (a 500-year- coincidence or fate, she meets
old fox with nine tails). people associated with her dead
brother, such as his girlfriend.
“You have to live about 500 years to write a novel,” Ha These meetings eventually guide
says, her words showing a remarkable intuition and a Jinmyeong to the Sapporo Inn,
thirst for insight. For all her experience, Ha Sung-ran where she happens to meet her
dead sibling’s penpal: a man
believes herself to be a work in progress, still looking for named Goske.
the novel with “eternal life,” just like Gumiho.
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 19
20-23 people1 2010.8.30 4:18 PM 페이지 20 Mac-2 in T C M Y K
PEOPLE
THE
ART
SHE
BREATHES
If you only judge Kim Young-hee by her diminutive stature and her age,
then prepare to have your expectations dashed. Though well into her 60s,
she doesn’t mind working 10-hour days. She adores her family, but is almost
equally passionate about flowers. When asked what words would best describe
her, this artist, best-selling writer, and mother of five says simply, “Kim Young-
hee is Kim Young-hee.” by Oh Kyong-yon | photographs by Park Jeong-roh
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
20 2010
Kim Young-hee in front of her painting, A Demonstration with Peace, at Chosun Ilbo
Gallery in Seoul, where she held a solo exhibition in August.
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 21
In making dakjongi dolls, one of Kim’s most common

pieces, she builds frames with hardwood and then wraps
wires around them. She wraps dozens of sheets of paper
around them to create the shape of the doll, which she then
colors and paints. Every step requires countless little touches,
and every doll is rich in Kim’s own emotion. Imbued with the
kind of memories of home that only a long-time expat
knows, Kim’s dakjongi pieces that she makes in Germany
embody elements of Korea that are actually now quite hard
to find there. Just how do such peculiarly Korean works of
art go down with European audiences?
“I don’t stick just to Korean topics,” says Kim. “For
instance, at first glance, my dolls seem to be dressed in
hanbok (Korean traditional dress), but I actually try and
take out the specific features so that they will be more
culturally neutral, and so more natural and abstract.”
“My sculptures include children who are reading or
drawing, or mothers who read to their kids. You can easily
see what they are doing. I don’t think there’s much difference
in how European audience interpret my work and how
Koreans do. Art itself is more fundamental than that.”
INSPIRATION FROM WITHIN Throughout her career, Kim has

dabbled in many different genres, so just where does she get
her inspiration? “All sources of inspiration and creativity
come from within,” she says. Three decades into her career,
Kim Young-hee is a Korean artist living in Germany. She that inspiration remains as strong as ever, pushing Kim to an
moved there in 1981, when she was 37, meaning she has spent output that is as prolific as it’s ever been.
nearly half her life in this far-off land. Kim’s distinctly Korean “When I was younger, I had to raise my children and
works, including traditional papers called hanji and dakjongi, barely had time to do any creative work,” she says. “But my
have made her well-known as an “Asian” artist to European kids have all grown up now, meaning I have plenty of time
audiences. To date, she has held 70 exhibitions in Germany, to do creative work and prepare for exhibitions.”
France, Switzerland, and the Netherlands. Even now, Kim doesn’t have a studio of her own, preferring
Kim’s love for her homeland informs everything she does to work at home. She doesn’t really care for travel, feeling it
as an artist. She made her artistic debut in Korea in 1978 with interferes with her concentration. For Kim, to work is to play.
dakjongi works that made such an impression, her name
become synonymous with the form. Painting has been Kim’s
forte of late, but for a solo exhibit she held in Korea from July
to August this year, she included many works made of
dakjongi, much to the delight of the spectators. Even with her
regular paintings, she insists to use hanji as her canvas.
“You know how people take down hanji from the frames
of hanok every year?” says Kim, referring to the practice of
changing the paper glazing on doors of old Korean homes.
“When I was a child living in the countryside, I lived in a
hanok and I played with sheets of hanji at that time of year.
You can say my artistic pursuits began right then and there.”
Kim Young-hee besides her sculpture Ballet, which was also on display at her Seoul
show (top). With Kim’s sculpture Mom Reading to a Child in the foreground, some
spectators take in the Seoul exhibition (above).
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
22 2010
She lists gardening as her only hobby. But even then, she says, just now,” she says. “I’ve built my career in Europe, and my
“Beautiful flowers enrich my artistic sensibilities and so help children and grandchildren are all living in Germany. But
my career.” when I go, I want to be buried in Korea.”
With each being so unique, she says, raising flowers is very Her periodic Korean exhibitions, held every one to two
similar to creating works of art. When she’s home, Kim years, present precious opportunities for Kim to visit her
checks on every one of her plants, making sure they’re well- native land. She still loves the beauty of hanok, and whenever
watered, and even conversing amiably with them. “I’ve she travels to Korea, she makes sure to go to Deoksugung,
planted about 200 of them in my garden and every season Changgyeonggung, and Gyeongbokgung palaces in Seoul.
brings its own beautiful colors. People in the neighborhood The chance to taste Korean cuisine on her home soil is
see me as a gardener first, not an artist.” another great joys she looks forward to. When her Korean
Though she’s known more as an artist overseas, Kim takes exhibit ended in late August, she was thrust right back into
on yet another title – that of “author”. Her first essay, The grueling preparations for her next show in Germany. Her
Woman Who Makes Babies Well, offered a candid account of time in Korea, despite the work, had been as comfortable and
her up-and-down personal history. It sold more than 2 soothing as the most languid of summer vacations.
million copies, turning Kim into an instant celebrity. She “My dakjongi pieces have portrayed children,
followed with an autobiographical novel and a picture book. but my larger sculptures of late are depict mature,
“For me, literature and art are complementary,” Kim says. adult women,” Kim says. “In my paintings, I freely
“Writing is an act in the two dimensional world: writing blend in elements of photography and sculpture.”
words, black, on a sheet of paper, white. As an artist, I tried As her continuing thirst for experimentation
to give colors to these words. On the other hand, when I am shows, Kim’s career is still in high gear. And thanks to her
trying to deal with all these brilliant colors in art, I apply the undying passion and love for life and art,
black-and-white motif from literature.” Over the years, this her fans are always counting the days until
most versatile of writers has also authored a mystery novel Kim’s next exhibition.
and a love story. She said for her next work of fiction, she
wants to write an autobiographical novel about something
close to her heart: displaced people.
KOREA, MY SPIRITUAL HOME Kim, in her own words, is

“100% Korean.” When asked if she ever plans to come back
ⓒ Gallery Hyundai
to Korea, Kim says, “Just as my move to Germany seemed

like destiny, my return home would also depend on destiny.”
“As an artist and mother, it would be difficult to go home
Summertime in a Gallery, a painting on hanji with mixed materials (top left). Still
Life, a painting on hanji with mixed materials (top right). Sounds of Spring’s Coming,
a sculpture of painted dakjongi paper (above left). Butterfly Spell, a sculpture of
KOREA
painted dakjongi (above right). SEPTEMBER
2010 23
PEOPLE
In a country where most people probably didn’t even know it

existed, the Korean under-20 women’s football team recently
sent shockwaves through Korea’s football establishment.
Following a round of 16 finish by the men’s national team in
the June World Cup in South Africa, the women’s team
proceeded to go one better, finishing third at the under-20
event, held in Germany from July through early August. Not
only was it the best ever finish for the women’s team, it was
the highest finish of any Korean team in a FIFA event.
Given that there are just 1,404 registered female football
players in the entire country, Korea’s achievement at the
under-20 World Cup was little short of miraculous. Though
every player made an enormous contribution, one had a
bigger hand in this miracle than any other. Scoring eight
goals in the tournament, Ji So-yun won both the Silver Shoe
Award (given to the second-best scorer), and the Silver Ball
Award (for being second-best player) as she powered her
team to third place in the tournament.
In tribute to her lightning-quick dribbling and superb
passing, Ji has earned the nickname “Ji-Messi,” a nod to both
Barcelona star Lionel Messi and French football legend
Zinedine Zidane. Just as Park Ji-sung became a figure of
inspiration for the Korean men’s game, Ji now has the weight
of the nation on her young shoulders, with Koreans looking
THE
ROAD TO
Though few people can completely escape
the brouhaha of the FIFA World Cup, even
keen sports fans may not know too much
about the women’s game. And so it was in
Korea — until one woman changed all that
with an astonishing performance at the
recent Under-20 Women’s World Cup.
by Guk Yeong-ho
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
24 2010
forward to seeing her at the forefront of women’s football for

many years to come.
“I only have pleasant memories,” Ji said of her time at the
tournament. “We would have dance battles during training to
brighten the atmosphere,” she said. “After we advanced to the
semi-finals, we transformed the locker room into a nightclub,
flashing the lights on and off while dancing and celebrating.”
In truth, however, Ji has never so much as stepped foot in a
nightclub. “I’d rather be practicing and playing football than
spending time at a nightclub,” she said.
After her World Cup heroics, Ji has since had to settle back
into her more humdrum daily routine. Training at the foot
of the tranquil Songnisan Mountain in Boeun,
Chungcheongbuk-do Province, Ji was set to take part in the
Tongildaegi Women’s Football Tournament in the town of
Gangneung. The most immediate evidence of her changed
status was the hordes of interview requests she received when
she came back to Korea. With the media interest now having
subsided somewhat, Ji is again placing her focus on training. taxes, it still dwarfs the 30 million she would receive as a
As a senior at Hanyang Women’s University, Ji should, like rookie in the WK League.
most of her classmates, be busy looking for jobs. Since her Aother reason Ji wants to play in the US is to show that
showing at the under-20 tournament, Ji has found herself in Asian players can be a force in the toughest league in the
the enviable position of being scouted by a host of world. Although Ji So-yun herself is not the biggest of
professional women’s teams. All of the teams in the WK players, being 160cm tall and weighing 50kg, she proved at
League would like to sign Ji, but they will have to wait until this year’s World Cup that her skills are easily sufficient to
the November Rookie Drafts to follow up on their interest. outweigh any physical constraints.
Overseas, teams from the German league and the Women’s “I have heard from female Korean football players in the
Professional Soccer (WPS) League in the US are said to be German league that life there can be extremely disappointing.
keeping a close eye on her too. Despite having similar levels of skill, the other nationalities
Understandably, Ji is enticed by the prospect of playing usually get picked first [because of their size],” she said. “If I
get accepted to the American league, I want to prove that
Korean players can hold their own with players from any-
VICTORY
with the world’s best. “I have always wanted to compete in
where else in the world.”
That Ji is now eyeing up a career in America shows just
how much her life has changed. As further confirmation, Ji
was invited to meet President Lee Myung-bak at the Blue
House, where the president asked her to act as a “ambassador
the American women’s soccer league, where the world’s top for women’s football.” Lee further asked Ji for her “coopera-
women players compete,” she said. “No Korean player has tion and support for women’s football in the creation of new
ever played in the WPS League, and this makes me all the teams.” Though not someone who feels naturally comfortable
more determined. I want to show the world that there are in the limelight, Ji agreed to the request of the man she
top-class female football players from Korea, too.” respectfully called “president grandfather,” and is now
For a woman who was brought up in difficult circumstances learning about promoting the sport in Korea.
ⓒ Yonhapnews Agency
— with divorced parents and her mother’s long struggle with President Lee is far from alone in expecting a great deal
cancer — the financial lure of the US is a big factor too. One from Ji. After her herculean efforts at the under-20 World
American team has reportedly offered Ji 100 million won Cup, Ji now represents the hopes of a nation, as it looks for
(US$85,000) a year, and though this shrinks a fair bit after further success from its female football stars.
In a game against Mexico, Ji So-yun celebrates her 6th goal at the 2010 FIFA U-20
World Cup (opposite). The Korean national footballers including Ji, second from left,
are running at a game against Mexico (above).
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 25
26-31 travel 2010.8.30 4:20 PM 페이지 1 Mac-2 in T C M Y K
TRAVEL
Where the Past

Still Lives
If Seoul is a vessel for Korea’s future, Andong, a city in Gyeongsangbuk-do Province,
opens the door to its past. Perhaps nowhere is this truer than in Andong’s Hahoe
Folk Village. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in this past August, Hahoe
is an essential part of Korea’s traditions, and to visit it is to take a journey to the
country’s spiritual capital. by Seo Dong-cheol | photographs by Kim Nam-heon
ⓒ Cultural Heritage Administration
From atop Buyongdae hill, a panoramic view of Hahoe Folk Village opens up before you.
Affording an exceptional view overlooking all of Hahoe Folk

Village, Buyongdae hill is the perfect spot to begin your visit.
Climb this cliff for about 10 minutes from the Hwacheon
Seowon, one of the old Confucian academies in Andong, and
Hahoe, the S-shaped Nakdong River waterway, and a
beautiful mountain range opens up before you.
In times past, Koreans would take feng shui into considera-
tion when building their homes. It would help decide on the
sites for houses, graves, temples, cities, and even the capital
according to the water and mountains. With mountains to its
rear and water flowing around it, Hahoe, which means “river
winding,” is located in a particularly auspicious spot, giving it
a reputation for happy, peaceful living throughout much of
the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910).
Climbing down from Buyongdae, take the small boat
across the river and enter the village. This is where the real
travels begin. Follow the dirt road by the stone walls, and in
every corner stands a traditional hanok house, its old-
fashioned eaved roofs swooping outward like the wings of
an exotic bird.
A single look makes plain that these hanok house some
particularly distinguished residents. With a history stretching
back over 600 years, Hahoe was formed by a collection of
distinguished clans, foremost of whom were the Ryu of
Pungsan. Spawning many illustrious scholars of the Joseon
era, the Ryu clan still lives in Hahoe today, making the village
one of the few anywhere in Korea to have maintained these
unbroken links with the past. Elizabeth II. Near the village’s entrance is an exhibition area
Hahoe today contains 127 hanok, of which 12 have been showing photos of the queen’s visit, along with a recreation of
designated Treasures and Important Folklore Materials by the special meal served to mark her 73rd birthday, which fell
the government. Hwagyeongdang, one of the grandest, gives on the same day. The queen’s visit boosted tourism to the
a real feel of the prestige this family would have felt at the area and remains a moment of pride for the locals here.
height of its powers. Covering 5,600sqm and with 72 kan Mesmerized by the majesty of these old houses, it would be
(rooms), this majestic complex includes the swankier anchae easy to overlook a great natural beauty in your midst. Called
and sarangchae, where the aristocracy, known as yangban, the Holy Tree of Samsindang, a zelkova tree has been stand-
would reside, as well as the haengrangchae, near the main ing here for six centuries, witnessing the history of this grand
gate, where servants lived in small, simple surroundings. old village. Surrounding its enormous trunk are thick sheaves
Yangjindang dates from the 14th century, and the very first of white paper on which visitors write down a wish, and then
ancestor of the Ryu line. Even today, descendants of the tie it to the rope around the tree. The tree is said to be as
Pungsan Ryu have family meetings here, discussing a range of beneficent to outsiders as it is to locals, so be sure to make a
issues related to the clan. Chunghyodang is said to have been wish before moving on.
the home of Ryu Seong-ryong, a famous Confucian scholar
from the Joseon era. Compared with Yangjindang and NATIVE SPIRIT On August 1 this year, UNESCO announced
Hwagyeongdang, this dwelling is decidedly humble, as befits the addition of Hahoe Folk Village to its list of World
a man of upstanding Confucian integrity. Cultural Heritage sites. As you take a stroll around Hahoe,
In front of Chunghyodang stands a Korean fir tree planted there is no denying its enormous cultural value as a remnant
on April 21, 1999, to celebrate the visit of Britain’s Queen of a long-gone way of life. Yet as beautiful as the village is,
Travelers learn about the history of Hahoe Folk Village in Yangjindang (above).
Yangjindang, a traditional hanok building, is suffused with the greatness of a noble
old Korean family (opposite top).
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
28 2010
that value doesn’t reside only in the architecture or the natu-

ral surroundings. Much of Hahoe’s charm, and the reason it
has retained inhabitants through the centuries, lies in the tra-
ditions and spirit that have been handed down from genera-
tion to generation and continue to thrive today.
Along with Buddhism, Confucianism is the bedrock of East
Asian philosophy. Beginning in China, Confucianism spread
throughout Korea and Japan, affecting both countries’
societies enormously and picking up big local variations
along the way. The basic spirit of Confucianism comes from
the concept of in, a benevolence and reciprocity based on the
ethics of family ties, and hyo, or filial piety, which further
develops to embrace the notion of reverence for one’s
ancestors. In the political realm, the Confucian ideal extends
to the king himself, who should, as with parents, receive the
loyalty and obedience of those below him, but must also
reciprocate with benevolent and wise rule.
A key element of Confucianism was the practice of
elaborate rituals, which became a central part of clan culture.
To this day, Korea is scattered with shrines that were part of
Some travelers from Iran try out the souvenirs at Hahoe Folk Village (middle). A boat
crossing the river from Buyongdae to Hahoe Folk Village adds to the rustic charm (above).
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 29
those rituals, yet few still carry the importance of the ones
in Hahoe. Their frequency may be much diminished every-
where, but jesa, the memorial services carried out for
ancestors, are still a major part of life in Hahoe, and yet
another reason why this village is such a cherished part of
Korea’s heritage.
Another cultural treasure here is the Hahoe Mask Dance
Drama, which has roots stretching back 800 years. While
Confucianism was the domain of the cultural elite, mask
dances such as the one in Hahoe were the preserve of the
common man, providing an outlet for his joys and hardships.
The masks all represented important characters of the
An apostate monk harasses a lady during a scene from the Hahoe Mask Dance Drama
(top left). A performer wears baekjeongtal, representative of a butcher (top right).
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
30 2010
time, such as the fierce-looking butcher, the stooped old lady

and the aloof yangban. In the drama, which is still widely HOW TO GET TO ANDONG HAHOE FOLK VILLAGE
> By Car Head south on the Gyeongbu Expressway from
performed today, the characters act out witty takes on scenes Seoul and transfer onto Yeongdong Expressway at Singal
from everyday life, poking fun at the hypocrisy and self- JC and again onto Jungang Expressway at Manjong JC. Exit
importance of religious figures and the ruling class. through Seoandong IC and continue for about 15km to
reach Hahoe Folk Village. Leave your car at the parking lot
Intriguingly, though class structures were rigidly enforced at the village entrance proceed the village on foot or by
in the Joseon era, in Hahoe the ruling yangban seemed to shuttle bus. Alternatively, you can take the boat from
recognize the value of this commoners’ entertainment and across the river near Buyongdae. The entire journey takes
about 3 hours.
either helped to fund it or even take part. By enabling the > By Bus Buses run from Seoul Central City Terminal to
yangban to have some understanding, however shallow or Andong. The fee is 15,600 won (US$13.5), and they
intermittent, of the working man’s lot, the Hahoe Mask depart every 1-2 hours. From downtown Andong, buses to
Hahoe run frequently. The journey takes about 3.5 hours.
Dance Drama helped bridge the vast class differences, and
perhaps contributed a measure of stability over the centuries. <Information>
Like almost all regions in Korea, Andong has local delica- Hahoe Folk Village
Visiting Hours Summer 09:00-19:00, Winter 09:00-18:00
cies for which it is renowned. The food, unsurprisingly, has Entrance Fees Adult 2,000 won (US$1.7), Students 1,000
its roots in the area’s strong Confucian traditions. won (US$0.9), Children 700 won (US$0.6)
With memorial services for ancestors — jesa — being such Shuttle Bus Fees Adult 500 won (US$0.4), Junior/High
School Students 400 won (US$0.3), Elementary Students
an integral part of local custom, the food served on those 250 won (US$0.2, one way, Parking Lot-Village Entrance)
occasions passed into regular local cuisine. To distinguish the Hahoe Mask Dance Drama (Standing Performance)
food, or bap, from that served at the rituals, the prefix heot, or Every Wednesday, Saturday, Sunday Until 2-3pm.
Free performances of the Hahoe Mask Dance take place at
fake, was added, with bap, meaning cooked rice, attached to Inheritance Hall, near the village’s entrance (March-
the end. Hence heotjesabap, which remains one of Andong’s December, No shows from January-February).
best known dishes. Served in brass dishes and including Inquiries Andong Hahoe Folk Village +82 (0)54 852 3588,
www.hahoe.or.kr
vegetables, beef and shark meat, hoetjesabap is a delicious and Free culture tourism guide (English, Chinese, Japanese)
subtly flavored dish. Have a seat and relish the taste of tradi- +82 (0)54 840 6974
tion in a setting where the past never really died. Andong Maskdance Festival 2010
The 13th Andong Maskdance Festival 2010 will take place
for 10 days from September 24 at Hahoe Folk Village and
surrounding venues in Andong. Held under the theme of
masks and mask dancing, the festival offers a fine
opportunity to see the Hahoe Mask Dance, as well as
other mask dances and performances from around the
world. This year’s participants include seven teams from
overseas and 11 Korean teams performing mask dances
and other original shows. On September 25 and October 2,
Seonyu Julbulnori, a traditional firework show said to be a
favorite of Hahoe’s yangban class, will take place, and the
various teams will stage street performances.
Inquiries +82 (0)54 841 6398, www.maskdance.com
Performed on an outdoor stage, the Hahoe Mask Dance Drama takes place very
close to the audience, ensuring a lively atmosphere and even a bit of audience
participation (above left). Famous for its subtle and healthy taste, heotjesabap is
KOREA
one of Andong’s best-known foods (above right). SEPTEMBER
2010 31
32-35 my korea 2010.8.30 4:23 PM 페이지 1 Mac-2 in T C M Y K
MY KOREA
THE
SWEETEST
AUTUMNAL
CONNECTION
Besides the gorgeous fall weather, the arrival of
September 22 (15th day of August of the lunar calendar)
in Korea also mean only one thing: chuseok, the
“Korean Thanksgiving.” In a country where so much
tradition has been lost, chuseok offers an intimate
reacquaintance with the ways of old, and rituals that
solidified one expat’s affection for his new home.
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
32 2010
To me, few sights in this world are as stunning as a persimmon tree against a healthiest ingredients. It goes without saying
brilliant blue autumn sky, its branches sagging under the weight of swollen that to a people so deeply intertwined with
orange fruit. This is a common sight across the Korean countryside, but one their agrarian past, celebrating the harvest
that I never tire of seeing. By tradition, when the fruit is plucked from the would be of the utmost importance. Chuseok,
boughs a few persimmons are left behind for the magpies, heralded in Korean sometimes referred to as hangawi, is a
folklore as the bearers of good news. This act typifies Koreans’ connection to Korean harvest festival that lasts for three
nature, the harvest, and their agrarian roots. Those who have visited Seoul, days around the Autumn equinox. Every
with its bustling streets, endless crowds of people, skyscrapers, and bright chuseok, the crowded metropolis of Seoul
lights might laugh, but I would argue that Korea is still largely rooted in its becomes a ghost town as people leave en
agrarian past and the countryside. masse for their ancestral hometowns in the
Korean society and culture continues to revolve around the consumption of countryside. Buses and trains are sold out
food and drink, and emphasis is always placed on using the freshest and months in advance, and even the relatively
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 33
low demand for domestic air travel skyrock- The cakes are then loaded on a bed of pine needles and steamed into a
ets. Cars pack the highways and slowly snake, delicious treat.
bumper-to-bumper, out of Seoul and to Traditionally songpyeon was exchanged between neighbors, reminiscent of
every remote locations throughout the the American tradition of exchanging sweets during the Christmas season. All
peninsula. Drive times quadruple and of this food, however, serves a greater function than to just be eaten. Before
hawkers freely walk between traffic lanes anyone even touches the food, it is given as an offering to the ancestors in a
selling their wares to Korean wayfares ceremony called charye. The food and rice wine are arranged in an impressive
engaged in this yearly exodus. display on a table in front of the ancestral burial mounds or in the family’s
The final destination on this journey is home. The family gathers together in front of the table and recites prayers
the keun-jip, literally translated as “big while offering the rice wine. Then, family members make full bows,
house,” but referring to the residence of the prostrating on the floor, offering thanks for the blessings received and
oldest living male family member. All memorializing their deceased family members.
immediate family members gather at the After the ceremony is finished, the family sits down together and partakes
keun-jip to celebrate the harvest and to pay of the bountiful feast. During this three-day reunion, cousins, uncles, aunts
thanks to their ancestors by preparing and and grandparents spend a great deal of time together. Traditionally families
sharing a great feast. took part in folk games like tug-of-war, archery, or ssireum, a form of
Foods traditionally eaten on this day tend traditional Korean wrestling. However, in more recent times, it’s much more
to vary by household, but commonly one likely that family members will share beers while munching on squid and
can find meats like bulgogi or galbi, two peanuts, watch TV or play Go-Stop, a popular Korean card game played with
traditional meat dishes, japchae, a dish hwatu cards.
prepared with various vegetables, meats and
cellophane noodles, jeon, a pancake like side FAMILY REUNION From start to finish, the holiday emphasizes the connec-
dish prepared by pan fried vegetables, fish tion between people and their hometowns, families, ancestors and the Earth.
and meat, coated in a batter of flour and Sin-to-bul-i, a common Korean idiom often used to say that the agricultural
eggs, and of course a wide variety of fruits, products of one’s hometown are the best, is literally translated as “the body
nuts, and herbs. The food most commonly and the earth cannot be separated.” This typifies Koreans’ attitudes when it
associated with chuseok, however, has to be comes to chuseok. Koreans’ respect for their traditions is only trumped by
songpyeon. This delicious dessert is made their passion and desire for sharing them with others.
from tteok, or glutinous rice cake, filled with During my seven years in Korea, I have had ample opportunities to
a sweet mixture of sesame seeds, honey, participate in Korean traditions with my friends and acquaintances. I first
sweet red bean or chestnut paste placed in encountered this hospitality as a young man living in the small town of
the middle as filling. The flattened rice is Gunsan. One of my coworkers, Mr Yu, was so concerned that I would be
folded around the mixture making a half- lonely or go hungry during the extended holiday when shops close that he
moon shape. invited me to spend the holiday with him and his family. While never having
experienced chuseok, nor understanding fully what it would mean to a
Korean to be alone on such an important day, I was touched by his concern.
On the first morning we rose early, packed our lunches, and headed to the
mountains to trim the grass around his family’s tombs. With four
generations of the Yu family sprawled on the side of the mountains,
by grass-covered mounds and stone pillars, there was a lot of
ground to cover. Armed with weed eaters, each of us took
painstaking care to trim the grass to a uniform level in the brisk
autumn air. Coming from a land where we pay a cemeteries to
look after the remains of our loved ones, this somehow felt
more intimate.
When we were finished and the sun began cresting on the ridge of the
mountain adjacent, we sat down beside the graves and ate our lunch, while
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
34 2010
taking in the fall landscape. Mr Yu took great pride in telling me the

history of his ancestors and explaining the auspicious location
where their burial mounds were placed. He said that the
location, flanked on either side by a mountain and
overlooking a small stream, was built under the
optimum conditions in feng shui (pungsu in
Korean). He informed me that as a result of
this auspicious positioning, the spirits of
his ancestors were resting in peace and
could pass on more blessings to his family.
The next day, when we visited with his
family in tow, I watched as his wife took
care to set up a small wooden table at the
base of the mountain where she
arranged the food. This was
followed by a few recited
prayers to the ancestors, the
pouring out of a few shots
of a rice wine that smelled
heavily of herbs, the cutting
and offering of fruit, bowing, and a few
informal words imparted from a father to
his children about the importance of
family.
After the ancestral rite finished, we gath-
ered together on a shiny silver mat and began
to eat and talk and laugh with one another. As I gripped
a fried pepper between my chopsticks and began raising it to my
mouth, it occurred to me that I was seated there with six generations of this
family. This was a family reunion that spanned hundreds of years. Never in a
million years before I came to Korea could I have imagined such a gathering.
As we were preparing to leave, I saw the brilliant orange of the persimmons
with the wide blue fall sky behind it stretching into eternity for the first time
in my life. Mr Yu, sensing my gaze, began reciting a poem entitled,
“Persimmon Tree, Food for Magpies.” The poem is a tale of the ripe sweet
fruit growing on the branches of a persimmon tree. It goes on to describe PROFILE
how the tree offers this fruit as food for the magpie to share with his family
Joel Browning is an
as they prepare for the winter, and how the branches, recently lightened of American living in
their fruit, reach into the sky. South Korea. He has
spent the past 7 years
He went on to relate the tradition of leaving a few persimmons on the tree in Korea, received his
and it was then that I first realized that Korea is about connections. MA in Korean studies
from Seoul National
Connections to others. Connections to the past. Connections to the earth. University and currently
works as the Star
Thanks to the experience of that chuseok and all the others that followed, Alliance Liaison at
when I was invited to participate with friends’ families or brought left-over Asiana Airlines. He
likes chilling and taking
food, I now understand this and feel connected as well. In a sense I am the long romantic walks
magpie and Korea has been my persimmon tree. by Joel Browning | Illustrations by along the Han River
that runs through the
Jo Seung-hyeon | photograph by Kim Nam-heon center of Seoul.
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 35
36-39 G20 report 2010.8.30 4:24 PM 페이지 1 Mac-2 in T C M Y K
SPECIAL FEATURE : G20 REPORT
LOOKING TO
LONG-TERM
COOPERATION TO
ACHIEVE GLOBAL
GROWTH
The G20 Summit in Seoul is just two months
away. In the first of a special four-part series
that will take a look at the leaders, the event
and stories, KOREA this month discusses the
significance for Seoul in hosting the Summit.
The Significance of Seoul Summit <September 2010> ; Preparations for
the G20 Summit <October 2010> ; The Summit’s Agenda and Schedule
<November 2010> ; The Outcome of the Summit and Untold Stories
<December 2010> will appear on these pages.
From November 11 to 12, the eyes of

the world will be on Seoul. US
President Barack Obama, Chinese
President Hu Jintao, German
Chancellor Angela Merkel, British
Prime Minister David Cameron, UN
Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon, and
Dominique Strauss-Kahn, managing
director of the International Monetary
Fund, are among about three dozen
heads of state or leaders of interna-
tional organizations who will travel to
the Korean capital for the Group of 20
(G20) Summit. About 10,000 officials
in total are expected to attend the
summit, making it the largest interna-
tional conference in history.
After the United States financial cri-
sis in 2008 turned into a full-blown
global recession, interest in the G20
Summit has perhaps never been President Lee Myung-bak speaks at the G20 Sherpa combined gross domestic product rep-
Meeting opening ceremony in Seoul, on July 20
greater. Amid fears of a downturn as resents about 90% of the world’s
(opposite). G20 Seoul Summit PR ambassador Han
severe as the Great Depression, G20 Hyo-ju, an actress, Sakong Il, Chairman of the total, and about 80% of all internation-
members from both advanced and Presidential Committee for the G20 Seoul Summit, al trade is done by these 20 nations.
and Kim Yu-na, a world-champion figure skater and
developing economies have displayed For this reason, the G20 forum is
ambassador for the G20 Seoul Summit, pose in front
unprecedented solidarity. As the glob- of the press (above, from left). sometimes referred to as “the mini-
al economy has stabilized, G20 meet- United Nations.”
ings demonstrated once again how Since the first meeting, the G20
closely linked individual countries are “The G20 comprises the 20 most Summit has convened twice a year.
with the global economy. economically influential countries From what was initially a narrow eco-
Against this backdrop, the world is among the 192 members of the UN,” nomic focus, the summit now address-
counting on the Seoul Summit to pres- said an official with the G20 organiz- es issues related to overcoming the
ent a lasting solution for avoiding a ing committee in Seoul. “Essentially, global economic crisis, reforming inter-
recurrence of the global financial cri- the G20 is a community of the leaders national agencies, tackling the global
sis. Specifically, G20 leaders have set of the world.” economic imbalance, banks’ financial
the Seoul meeting as the deadline for The inaugural G20 summit was held health, building financial safety nets,
settling all the main issues that have in November 2008, two months after and strengthening financial trans-
been discussed as means to stabilize the collapse of Lehman Brothers, a parency.
the global economy. If the leaders at US investment bank. Though that Over the last two years,
this summit successfully agree on summit was a direct response to the Washington, London, Pittsburgh and
ways to consolidate the recovery, the financial crisis then engulfing the Toronto have all hosted the event.
G20 is likely to become the world’s world, it has since become a regular With this up-coming November sum-
leading regular forum for discussing event, which many economists say mit, Korea will become the first emerg-
international economic cooperation. marks a major turning point for the ing economy to hold the meeting. And
world economy. Compared to the G7 if the leaders achieve most of what
BEING THE BRIDGE Comprising 19 or G8, which only involved the tradi- they’ve set out to do, the Seoul sum-
countries and the European Union, the tional, predominantly Western eco- mit could turn out to be the most sig-
G20’s membership includes tradition- nomic powerhouses, the G20 meet- nificant one yet.
al economic powers such as the ings ushered in a far more internation- Seoul stands to oversee some of
ⓒ Cheongwadae
United States, Japan, Germany and al era, signaling the growing economic the body’s most crucial decisions in
Britain, and emerging economies such power of Asia in particular. its short life. Discussions about sus-
as Korea, China, India, Brazil, and The G20 nations account for two- tainable and balanced growth, the
Indonesia. thirds of the world population. Their importance of which has grown expo-
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 37
providing more development aid for

less privileged countries.
Issues such as these, as well as
more extensive measures to aid eco-
nomic growth in developing countries,
are on the agenda largely at the
behest of Korea in its role as host.
Apart from their primary goals, these
proposals are aimed squarely at show-
ing non-G20 members that the forum
represents their interests too. Should
these measures be adopted, Korea is
hoping that they will become known as
the “Korea Initiative,” so that the
country can become more closely
identified with major international
efforts to help with the growth of
emerging economies.
The top priority at the G20 Summit,
the framework for sustainable and bal-
anced growth will take a more con-
crete form in Seoul. Based on the con-
clusions of the Toronto Summit in
June, when countries began by under-
taking assessments of their
economies, leaders have agreed to
push forward with plans to take collec-
tive action on finance, banking, curren-
cy and industrial structures.
In Toronto, the leaders in atten-
dance agreed only on general princi-
ples; rich countries said they would
halve their deficits by 2013, and
developing economies promised to
strengthen social safety nets and
make their currencies more flexible.
The Seoul Summit will provide a forum
Sakong Il and the children’s press corps hold the nentially since the financial crisis, will to reflect on how far they’ve come in
group of 20 member countries’ flags, wishing suc-
take place there. Changes to IMF quo- implementing those goals, as well as
cessful hosting of the G20 Seoul Summit (top).
Participants of the campaign “I Myself am Korea,” tas and new standards for the health wide-ranging consultations on how the
which works to improve the dignity of the nation, of financial institutions could also be process can be speeded up. Among
arrive at the Incheon International Airport on August
announced in Seoul. other more specific deals, the leaders
3, 100 days ahead of the launch of the G20 Seoul
Summit (above). Korea’s role is also crucial in that will produce agreements on reforms to
perhaps more than any of the hosts the banking sector and international
so far, it has great credibility as a financial institutions.
bridge between advanced and emerg- In the declaration issued in Toronto,
ing economies. One of the major G20 leaders agreed to come up with
items on the agenda this November is new international standards on capital
the establishment of global financial flow to improve banks’ transparency.
safety nets that would soften the blow These measures, to be finalized in
of international crises on less devel- Seoul, are being prepared by the Basel
oped nations. Korea is a champion of Committee on Banking Supervision.
this cause, and has also proposed Also in Seoul, the Financial Stability
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
38 2010
Board plans to tackle problems what may be known as the “new nor- appealed directly to the IMF. With
caused by financial companies mal” era. GSM, the IMF itself proposes setting
deemed “too big to fail.” In addition, Global safety nets, a key part of up credit lines to countries it deems
reforms to the IMF and other interna- Korea’s proposals, is based on the to be facing liquidity risks. In other
tional financial agencies will be up for IMF’s new liquidity support system, words, the IMF will go from being the
discussion. The IMF plans to modify tentatively called the Global Stability “firefighter”— attempting to tackle
its quotas so that at least 5% of Mechanism (GSM). Instead of focus- damage after the fact — to being a
shares owned by developed countries ing on individual countries, GSM takes “vaccine,” offering preventive steps
will be redistributed to emerging a global approach, looking to counter before the situation gets out of hand.
economies. They also plan to offer financial risks that arise in several To improve the FCL, the IMF is look-
more seats on the IMF board to devel- nations at the same time — exactly ing at increasing the loan period from
oping countries, and to make appoint- the situation that occurred in the its current six months as well as mak-
ments to top positions both more recent global financial crisis. The GSM ing it more widely available. It is also
transparent and meritocratic. was set up to counter the problems considering setting a Precautionary
Some of the most pressing econom- inherent in individual countries receiv- Credit Line (PCL) for countries with
ic issues facing the world today will be ing funds from the IMF — namely, that lower credit ratings. All these meas-
up for discussion in Seoul. The fate of they risked being singled out as vul- ures could be confirmed at the Seoul
these talks could very well determine nerable by investors and world mar- Summit. Yet they are not without their
just how important, the G20 will be in kets. In addition, the Flexible Credit detractors: developed economies such
determining the course of the world Line (FCL), another IMF mechanism for as the US, Germany, and Canada
economy. receiving assistance, is in practice lim- have all raised questions about mak-
ited to countries that are in reason- ing such major changes to the IMF.
THE KOREA INITIATIVE “The ably good economic health; so far, They have also pointed out the risks
Framework for Strong, Sustainable only Mexico, Colombia and Poland of moral hazard among emerging
and Balanced Growth,” the biggest have signed up. countries if it becomes too easy to get
topic of discussion at G20, has previ- The key difference between GSM financial support from the IMF.
ously been discussed between two and the IMF’s previous support sys- When the IMF wishes to make major
blocs: developed and developing tem is in how the help is initially changes to its operations, it must
nations. At the Seoul Summit, individ- given. Under the previous arrange- obtain 85% support from its share-
ual nations will put forward proposals ments, countries in need of support holders, of whom G20 members
of their own. Considering the impor- account for about 70%. For this rea-
tance of the issues on the table in son, the success of these new pro-
President Lee Myung-bak hosts a regular meeting
Seoul, any agreement could mark the on the G20 Seoul Summit at the Presidential posals is far from assured. However,
beginning of a new economic order, in Committee for the G20 Seoul Summit on July 29. Korea has at least managed to put
the idea up for discussion by arguing
that liquidity problems are, big enough
disincentives to prevent emerging
economies from pursuing reckless
economic policies. Further progress is
expected in Seoul.
On development aid, another pillar
ⓒ Seoul Economy Daily (opposite); Cheongwadae (right)
of the Korea Initiative, Korea and the

co-chair South Africa recently launched
a working group and are finalizing a
multi-year action plan that will be
endorsed in November.
Summit discussions about develop-
ment will center around food security
and human resources projects by the
World Bank and other development
banks. They will also touch on civilian-
led growth and infrastructure support,
and the switch to a green economy.
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 39
40-43 global korea 2010.8.30 4:25 PM 페이지 1 Mac-2 in T C M Y K
GLOBAL KOREA
KOREAN VOLUNTEERS
TAKE TO THE WORLD
ⓒ International Workcamp Organization
Young Koreans are looking out toward the world. Through a wide range
of overseas voluntary programs, Korea’s youth are helping people less
privileged than themselves, while learning all about their cultures in the
process. To them, the term “we” is no longer confined to family or
compatriots, but extends across borders. by Seo Dong-cheol
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
40 2010
were entirely new to her. with her father, who is in the

After a two-day crash course in import/export business, have given
Indian culture in Dehli, Kim was back her a taste for travel, she says, and
on a plane, then a train, and finally a her volunteering has convinced her of
bus. At the end of the journey, Kim the work she’d like to do.
arrived in Ruchi, a mountain village in Where once Kim knew little about
the north of the country. Coming from India beyond the Taj Mahal and curry,
Korea, Kim was above all impressed now she knows it as a country where
by the sheer size of India, and how she made a difference, a country that
isolated she was from any big cities. is her friend.
“I was worried about the water sup- “I do regular volunteering at a local
ply since the town was halfway up a rehabilitation hospital,” she said. “But
mountain,” she says. “The first work I I would like to serve not just Koreans,
had was to install water tanks at each but our global neighbors too.”
house so that they could use rainwa-
ter. We were divided into three groups, GROWING UP Kim Da-som, a Hanyang
and twisted wires, made bricks and University sophomore majoring in pub-
planted bamboo because their wide lic policy, had a slightly different sum-
roots help prevent landslides.” mer break than her friends. Since stu-
This grueling work went on for 10 dents in this major generally spend
days, but the warmth expressed by any spare time preparing for the civil
the townspeople and the sense of sat- service exam, most of Kim’s friends
isfaction after were enormously devoted their summer to studying.
rewarding. “An Indian lady served us Kim, however, felt the call of volun-
chai [Indian milk tea] and it seemed teering and decided to do it overseas.
like the sweetest thing I’d ever tast- Many of her friends were bemused
ed,” Kim says. “I can’t even begin to by Kim’s decision. They asked why she
describe the exhilaration I felt looking was paying hard-earned money to
at the finished water tanks.” spend the summer doing hard physical
Following another trip last year to work, but Kim was undeterred.
Mongolia as part of volunteer medical
team, Kim says she now wants to
become a doctor who offers free med- Young Korean volunteers host an educatinal
program with local students in Indonesia (left).
ical services in poor countries around Korean teenagers construct the base of a water
the world. Numerous overseas trips tank in India (below).
Last summer, Kim Hye-ryung, a fresh-

man at Gyeongnam Foreign Language
High School in Yangsan, Gyeongsang-
nam-do Province, flew to India. After
trying to come up with meaningful
ways to spend her summer break, Kim
learned about a two-week overseas
voluntary program, andsubmitted her
application immediately. Though Kim
had vague notions of the country, on
arrival in India, everything — from its
rickshaw-crammed streets to its pun-
gent food to its colorful clothes —
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 41
appreciate my life, to live together a language he had no understanding

with people from around the world and of. This initial sense of confusion
to think positively,” Kim continues. “I soon faded after Kim took the four-
also met precious people that I hour drive to Taishi, where he was
wouldn’t have met if I hadn’t made the introduced to fellow volunteers from
trip. I just gained so much. I grew up a other countries around the region.
lot through this whole experience.” Practically none of them spoke the
Kim Jong-ho, a junior at Baeksin same language, but they quickly
Middle School in Goyang, Gyeonggi-do became friends nonetheless.
Province, went to Taiwan this summer “Taishi was really no different to
on what was his first trip overseas. On Jeollabuk-do Province, where my
arrival, he found streets dotted with grandmother lives,” Kim says. “I had
signs in Chinese, with locals speaking flown a long way but the surroundings
A Korean student plays with children in Nepal

(above). A volunteer with a black belt gives young
Cambodian students a taekwondo lesson (right).
“I chose to go volunteer because I

thought it would turn the long break
into something truly valuable. I felt I’d
develop a broader perspective and
have some ideas for the future once I
came back,” she says. “As I attended
the training workshop, I had my share
of doubts and fears about going to a
new place, but that anxiety turned into
excitement as my time approached.”
Kim went to Samrong, a small town
near Siem Reap in Cambodia. The vil-
lage didn’t have washing machines,
so Kim had to wash her clothes with
her hands using water she pumped
from a well. There were nightly battles
with heat, but looking back, Kim says
these were only minor discomforts.
“Whenever it rained, the bugs had a
field day,” she recalls. “But the times
ⓒ International Workcamp Organization
I spent with schoolkids in Samrong

gave me a sense of reward and happi-
ness that overwhelmed any inconven-
iences. Through singing, dancing, and
working with them, I really grew fond
of the kids. On the day I left, I couldn’t
stop crying.”
“In Cambodia, I learned how to
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
42 2010
Korean volunteers teach English to children in says. “During my volunteering, I grams with the agency. The Ministry of
Cambodia (above left). A Korean volunteer shares a
helped translate Korean children’s Gender Equality and Family operates
tender moment with a Nepalese child (above right).
songs into Chinese and danced for the Into Dreams and People Youth
young students. I got to learn a differ- Volunteering Group, which is run dur-
were so familiar that I was at once ent culture, and teach others about ing summer and winter breaks in five
surprised and happy.” my own country. It was great.” Asian nations.
Part of the program was a Aside from the International
“Taiwanese Night,” which provided an FROM KOREAN TO COSMOPOLITAN Workcamp Organization, Copion
excellent chance to learn more about More young Koreans are gaining a (www.copion.or.kr), the Asia Exchange
Taiwanese culture. Kim discovered broader view of the world through over- Association (www.asiaea.or.kr), and
that with Korean culture having so seas volunteering. The International the Korea Overseas Volunteers
many roots in China, the commonali- Workcamp Organization (IWO), Korea’s Association (www.kova.org) are among
ties with Taiwan were striking. leading agency for international volun- a host of other NGOs and religious
“In particular, Taiwanese people teering, now sends about 3,900 young groups that manage volunteer pro-
also observe the Lunar New Year and Koreans to foreign countries each grams. Officials estimate that, tens of
chuseok [Korean Thanksgiving], and year. In its inaugural year in 1999, the thousands of young Korean volunteers
that made me feel closer to Taiwan,” non-governmental, non-profit agency now go abroad each year.
Kim says. “There were also some fas- sent 49 young people, a number that “A growing number of young
cinating differences in cuisine, charac- swelled to 1,000 in 2005, and 3,500 Koreans are learning the meaning of
ters, and languages, and I was able to in 2008. volunteering, as they interact with
experience things that they didn’t The IWO runs many programs cover- locals and youths from around the
teach us in classrooms.” ing an array of different regions and world,” says Ahn Hyun-mi of the
In Taishi, as part of an “educational themes. Among the most popular are International Workcamp Organization.
art performance,” Kim painted murals the International Workcamp, an “Though it’s only for a short time, they
on a 150m-long wall. At first, he was exchange program with youths from feel their outlook on the world really
daunted by the scale of the work, but 70 countries; Environmental expands after meeting international
as he painted and chatted with the Volunteering, which takes place in the friends and taking an interest in differ-
local volunteers, the four days just United States or Australia; and YESiA ent countries and cultures. As I watch
flew by. International Volunteers, which sends these young Koreans becoming true
“I did some picture book renditions young Koreans to 10 nations around cosmopolitan, I feel genuinely confi-
of Korean fairy tales, and wrote some Asia. Government agencies, compa- dent that we’re helping Korea and the
English and Chinese words,” Kim nies, and schools also run joint pro- world toward a brighter future.”
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 43
44-48 now in korea 2010.8.30 4:26 PM 페이지 44 Mac-2 in T C M Y K
NOW IN KOREA
A WORLD OF
Starting from a get-together of artists in 1998, Heyri Art Village
has grown into Korea’s biggest art community. Now home to
nearly 400 artists, Heyri’s influence has been sharply felt in Seoul
— whose people flock to visit it — and, increasingly, in the
provinces, where inspired artists have taken Heyri’s mission into
the countryside. by Lim Ji-young | photographs by Kim Hong-jin
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
44 2010
The white and black façades, the red sculpture and the blue sky combine to form an
enticing backdrop at Heyri Art Village.
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
2010 45
Looking at the profoundly quirky but immaculately kept

buildings of Heyri Art Village, it’s hard to believe that it’s
already celebrating its 10th anniversary. The most famous
artists’ community in Korea, Heyri’s roots stretch back to
1998, when a group of cultural figures – who had met to plan
a settlement – decided on this 495,800sqm area of land in
Paju, Gyeonggi-do Province. After extensive planning, the
village officially began to take shape in 2001, with galleries
opening to the public from 2003 (the 10th anniversary is based
on the traditional Korean system for counting years).
The response was emphatic. Visitors to this cozy outpost
hailed the galleries and performance halls that were so
removed from their counterparts in the big city. Over the last
nine years, the number of inhabitants rose from 100 to 380.
Today, as befits a real community, they often meet to discuss
issues affecting them, or just to drink tea together. They host
club activities such as painting and literary discussions. Heyri
was, and remains, a place where people who love arts and
culture can share and live together. “Artists from various
backgrounds learn from each other here, as we’ve sought to
preserve Heyri’s original mission of becoming a mecca for
culture and the arts,” says Jeon Hee-cheon, Heyri’s chairman.
Public perceptions of Heyri have gradually changed. Where
once visitors would drop by, take a few pictures and leave,
today they will make a day of it, strolling around the grounds,
visiting a selection of galleries, and stopping off for a coffee
or lunch in one of the village’s pretty cafes. During Paju
Heyri’s Pan Festival, which runs every September, the village
is thronged with visitors who come to appreciate its art and
to share in the wonderful artistic spirit that the inhabitants
have done so much to nourish. This year, the festival runs
from September 4 through 12.
THE SCENTS OF ART AND CULTURE Comprising 150

buildings or so, Heyri is no longer a place that can be seen in
a single visit. The village actually began with a single building
— the piano-like Book House — which still occupies a prime
central location in this bohemian settlement. Though it is
difficult to choose highlights, Book House remains one of
the most interesting spots in Heyri, along with a string of
distinctive galleries and studios that should be high on any-
one’s list of places to see while in the village.
Camerata, established by broadcaster Hwang In-yong,
hosts classical recitals and concerts. Hanhyanglim Museum
houses ceramics ranging from the traditional to the modern.
With its experimental spirit, Gallery Jireh is a hit with fans of
modern art. Its first floor is also home to an excellent cafe
Heyri has its share of nostalgia, including this reproduction of a bus stop from the
1980s (top). In his residence and studio in Heyri, Lee An-soo carves a sotdae pole,
with which Koreans once prayed for a good harvest. A true renaissance man, Lee was
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
inspired to try his hand at writing and painting after coming to Heyri (above).
46 2010
with a full view of the artworks on display.

Gallery MOA, an architectural treasure, is a work of art in
itself. Keumsan Gallery, a winner of the Korean Architecture
Award, contains an 80-year-old oak tree that has been incor-
porated into the building. As with much else in Heyri,
Keumsan takes full advantage of its surroundings by creating
a compelling harmony between man and nature.
There are about 20 exhibition halls in Heyri, offering space
to artists, but more than just the galleries, the ambiance here
in itself a great sources of inspiration. Novelist Jeon Gyeong-
rin, who moved office from Seoul to Heyri, says, “It feels like
I’ve escaped from a convoluted maze.”
Craftsman Lee An-soo, who manages “creative residence”
Motif#1, adds, “Heyri is a place where artists from various
backgrounds influence each other, and can extend their
knowledge and experience.” Lee himself is living proof of this.
Before coming to Heyri, he was a photographer. Today he
writes, draws and even makes the traditional “prayer poles”
with which Koreans of yore used to which for good harvests.
Of course, a great part of Heyri’s appeal today is not just in
its artists, but in the “laymen” who come to share in the
village’s charms and creative energy. “I often come here with
my daughter. I think it’s a great place to help nurture her
In the Toy Museum, traditional dolls welcome visitors with smiles (top). Children and
adults will find plenty to amuse them at the museum’s Wow Place (middle). Offering
much more than just art, Heyri also boasts a series of amusement parks. At Motnani
KOREA
Amusement Park, visitors can rediscover the lost innocence of childhood (above). SEPTEMBER
2010 47
emotional growth,” says Yu Eun-jin, a dyed-in-the-wool

Seoulite. “There are so many attractions for children here.”
The art village is a huge draw for families or couples who
come to appreciate the artworks or just kick back in one of
the cafes or restaurants. In 2009, the village office estimates,
about a million people came to spend some time in Heyri.
A COUNTRY OF COMMUNITIES Heyri’s success has

inspired a spate of other art communities to try and set up
around the country. While some remain at the planning
stage, several have gone on to thrive.
Gungtteul Dokkaebi Art Village in the Jangsu, Jeollabuk-
do Province, was founded in 2002 by local craftsmen who
wanted to preserve traditional Korean culture. In a rural,
unpolluted environment, visitors can learn such time-
honored crafts as calligraphy, natural dyeing, fan making
with bamboo, traditional woodcraft, and ceramics.
Housed in an old schoolhouse in Seongju, a county in
Gyeongsangbuk-do Province, Kumsu Art Village is an arts
studio funded by the local and national governments to help
develop culture in the area. Studios 1 and 2 are devoted to
theater and traditional Korean percussion, while other rooms
offer space for painting, ceramics, and an architectural
museum. The large trees surrounding Kumsu create the
perfect mood for quiet painting or reflection.
Since its completion in 2007, Jeoji Art Village has turned
the Jeoji-ri from a quiet border area of Jeju into a hotspot for
the island’s culture. A small village that only reveals itself after
a 45km drive from Jeju Airport, Jeoji Art Village houses a cul-
ture and art hall, a group work office, an outdoor exhibition
hall, a traditional culture space, and a private work room. “I
would never have imagined that something like this would
end up in our village,” says local resident Byeon Han-bong.
THE JOYS OF HEYRI
On the foot of Seungdalsan Mountain in Muan, Jeollanam- 1. Toy Museum
do Province, Wolseonri Art Village was formed when ceram- A favorite with children and young couples alike, this feast of
nostalgia houses a big collection of stories and toys from Korea
ics craftsman Kim Moon-ho moved to the area in 1990. Two
and around the world.
decades on and there are about 20 resident artists there work-
ing in various fields, including ceramics, calligraphy, sculp- 2. Motnani Amusement Park
Offering the chance to step back in time, Motnani (“ugly children”)
ture, and literature. In contrast to Heyri, which was actually
has reproductions of a barbershop from the 1960s, a photo studio
built from scratch, Wolseonri was formed when artists moved from the ‘70s, and a stationery vendor from the ‘80s. The restau-
into empty houses in the area. For that reason, it is more like rant even lets Koreans relive culinary memories, with the old
favorite of ham, fried kimchi, and a fried egg.
a real country village, which is Wolseonri’s greatest charm.
ⓒ Invil Central Council (above)
Thanks to these arts communities, rural villages that once 3. Motif#1

saw only different shades of green are now being painted in Although mainly a residence for artists who needs room to work,
Motif#1 is also open to the public, who can, if they choose, stay
red, blue, yellow, and a rainbow of other colors. With the arts
the night. Studios with various themes make the place feel vibrant
villages proving so durable and popular, we can only expect and fresh.
more to appear in the years ahead.
Oversized pencils line up to form a colorful fence in front of Dalki Space at Heyri
(top). Down on Jeju Island, Jeoji Art Village forms an enclave of artworks for islanders
and visitors alike (above).
KOREA
SEPTEMBER
48 2010
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9월호엽서 2010.8.30 4:28 PM 페이지 1
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표지최종 2010.8.

30 4:30 PM 페이지 1 Mac-2 in T C M Y K

People & Culture

September 2010 www.korea.net

The Beauty of Korea Salterns, or salt farms, are

COVER STORY 04 PEN & BRUSH 16 PEOPLE 20

PEOPLE 24 MY KOREA 32 NOW IN KOREA 44

TRAVEL 26 SPECIAL FEATURE: 36

PUBLISHER Seo Kang-soo,

EDITING HEM KOREA Co., Ltd

The articles published in KOREA do not necessarily

Letters to the editor should include the writer’s full

If you want to receive a free copy of KOREA or wish

A typically boisterous scene from Nanta.

ⓒ PMC Production (above); Yegam Inc. (left)

It can last anywhere between an hour and 90 minutes. For

THE LEGEND OF NANTA In Korean, nanta means “to strike

proved such a hit wherever it has played.

JUMP INTO ANOTHER WORLD Jump, the other great non-

THE GROWING VOICE OF NON-VERBAL PERFORMANCE

the spectrum and giving up something she had been doing

Song Seung-hwan, head of PMC Production

From the beginning, Nanta was created with overseas mar-

KOREAN tain, so it is made sense for an ambitious producer to create a

NON-VERBAL were no guarantees with an untried genre like non-verbal

PERFORMANCE show, overcame potential difficulties with originality, deter-

The first step to further enhancing Nanta’s standing over-

When Nanta first traveled to play the Edinburgh Festival

year, tour groups of Japanese students were traveling to Korea

PEN & BRUSH

With 15 years of writing experience under her belt, Ha

DISCOVERING HER FREEDOM Yet for one so “young,” Ha

community raising their children free from the

ELABORATE DEPICTIONS However, Ha delivers her short

In making dakjongi dolls, one of Kim’s most common

INSPIRATION FROM WITHIN Throughout her career, Kim has

KOREA, MY SPIRITUAL HOME Kim, in her own words, is

to Korea, Kim says, “Just as my move to Germany seemed

In a country where most people probably didn’t even know it

forward to seeing her at the forefront of women’s football for

Where the Past

ⓒ Cultural Heritage Administration

Affording an exceptional view overlooking all of Hahoe Folk

that value doesn’t reside only in the architecture or the natu-

time, such as the fierce-looking butcher, the stooped old lady

taking in the fall landscape. Mr Yu took great pride in telling me the

SPECIAL FEATURE : G20 REPORT

From November 11 to 12, the eyes of

providing more development aid for

of the Korea Initiative, Korea and the

were entirely new to her. with her father, who is in the

Last summer, Kim Hye-ryung, a fresh-

appreciate my life, to live together a language he had no understanding

A Korean student plays with children in Nepal

“I chose to go volunteer because I

I spent with schoolkids in Samrong

Looking at the profoundly quirky but immaculately kept

THE SCENTS OF ART AND CULTURE Comprising 150

with a full view of the artworks on display.

emotional growth,” says Yu Eun-jin, a dyed-in-the-wool

A COUNTRY OF COMMUNITIES Heyri’s success has

Thanks to these arts communities, rural villages that once 3. Motif#1

2. What kind of contents do you find most interesting or useful in KOREA?