2002 and EARLIER ELECTRICAL

ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS
Typically, electrical problems are the most frustrating problem to diagnose. It is vital that proper
diagnostic tools be utilized in the process of determining the malfunction.

When diagnosing an electrical problem:

• Get as much info from the customer as possible. (When it happened, how he was riding,
any warning signs…etc.)
• Eliminate the obvious first. Never assume something is good. Check E.H.C. for any lit
LEDs
• Verify connections (look for connectors that may not be fully connected or latched).
• Perform power and ground checks
• When doing continuity tests confirm that you have continuity through switches and
connectors (do these tests with battery disconnected).
• If a wire is pinched to a ground, you can still have continuity end to end so check to
ground also.
• In the case of lighting, the rear fenders typically have remote grounds. Check them.

33% of all warranty claims are electrical related.

Electrical failures can be placed in the following categories:

1. WIRING…bad connections / broken wires 7% of claims
2. IGNITION COILS…mainly broken coils 5% of claims
3. BATTERIES…dead batteries 4% of claims
4. IGNITION MODULES…Incorrect program / no data 4% of claims
5. IGNITION SYSTEMS…sensor plates (thermal failure) 3% of claims
6. LIGHTING…Blown bulbs (head lamp, tail lamp, Turn signal) 3% of claims
7. CHARGING SYSTEM…Bad regulators 2% of claims
8. SPEEDOMETER…Speedo lights/speedo, harness 2% of claims

WIRING
• The single biggest electrical warranty problem. Most electrical problems are more than
likely due to broken wires, poor crimps and bad connections. Poor connections can be
misleading. They are frequently miss-diagnosed when known good components are
installed to isolate a problem. If a poor connection exists, replacing a component can
make the symptom go away leading the technician to believe that the component is the
bad part, not the connection itself.

ALWAYS CHECK CONNECTIONS FIRST! This may save diagnostic time and ultimately
increase efficiency and productivity.

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IGNITION COIL
• Electrically, rarely an issue. Typically, most electrical issues are due to poor
connections/crimps and broken wires. May crack at mount due to vibration on 2002
models. Reinforced coil cover will fix this problem.
• To diagnose, if by removing yellow wire and momentarily touching ground jumper to
negative post does not force a spark and all connections are known to be good, check
primary and secondary resistance. If out of spec, replace coil. If in spec, check for bad
plug wires and plugs.
Primary resistance: 3 ohms
Secondary resistance: 12,000 ohms

BATTERIES
• Batteries come from the factory charged and ready. All batteries are load tested to ensure
a full charge when the bike leaves the factory. Bikes that have sat for long periods of
time may need to be recharged. (Can loose 1% of charge per day)
• If a customer doesn’t ride his bike often or for longer periods of time, his battery will not
recover the charge used to start the engine. Testing has showed that to recover the charge
on a battery after starting, you need to ride 30-40 minutes above 2000 rpms.

If the bike is not being ridden enough to maintain a charge, Big Dog recommends the use of a
trickle charger. We recommend the use of the Auto Meter Pro-Cycle Battery Extender. This
charger will not exceed 2 amps and will cut off automatically when a full charge is reached. It
will then go into a maintenance mode where it will monitor battery voltage and when it drops
below a certain point will go back to charge mode. We have these chargers in stock and will be
more than happy to sell you one or even more. They even come with a pigtail that you can attach
to the battery for a quick connect to the charger.

IGNITION MODULE
• Typically a trouble free unit, occasionally incorrectly programmed. Most issues with
ignition module are connection related and not the module itself.

• Computer accessible, if unable to link up with computer or displays no data, module

should be replaced. If module contains incorrect program, program can be updated.

• To Diagnose, confirm signal from sensor (flashing LED) or use module tester. The
module tester will simulate the sensor plate and sweep the ignition from idle to 6000 rpm.
This will allow for testing of the ignition system without the need to have the bike
running. You can even link up to a computer and monitor ignition functions with the
active monitor.

o If LED is flashing and you have no spark, disconnect yellow wire from coil. With
ignition on, connect jumper wire from ground to negative side of coil. When
jumper is removed you should get a spark at the plugs. If not, problem is either in
the coil or plugs/ wires. If you do get a spark, and there are no pinched wires,
replace module.

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 o If LED does not flash and there are no pinched or broken wires, replace module.

IGNITION SYSTEM
Ignition sensor plate
• Prone to thermal failure-engine will run fine until bike comes up to temperature then
may run erratic or die. Will not re-start until bike sits for a period of time then will
start fine.

• To diagnose, check for LED flashing on ignition module when engine is cranked
over. If no flash, confirm power and connection, if connection and power good,
replace sensor plate with known good unit. If LED is flashing on module at all times,
problem is not sensor plate.

• A thermal issue can be isolated by using a heat gun to heat up sensor plate while
monitoring module, or if the bike is hot and will not start and LED is not flashing, use
freeze mist (available at Radio Shack) to cool down sensor plate. If engine then starts,
you need to replace sensor plate.

Spark Plug Wires

• Normally not a problem, but have been known to become disconnected from coil or
to break at the 90 degree bend at the coil connection.

LIGHTING
• Blown bulbs, In the case of head light bulbs, poor connections in the plug/lamp connector
the major cause along with voltage spikes. The new head light harness (BD4113-2) will
correct for these problems.

• Issues with turn signal and tail light bulbs can also be related to loose connections in the
bulb sockets, poor connections in harness and poor grounding.

• Mastiff LED Tail lights, typically they work or they don’t. Occasionally, they may
experience a single or multiple LED failures. The only option is complete replacement.
Be aware of the diodes and resistor in the wire harness pigtail for the lamp assembly. The
wires will need to be spliced into the existing harness. Trim the wires back away from the
diodes, ensuring that the splice is between the diodes and the fender connector not
between the diodes and the lamp assembly itself.

CHARGING SYSTEM
Voltage Regulators
• Occasionally have seen some bad batches of regulators from engine electronics.
(Rare) Typically any problem will be connection/ ground related.

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 Alternators
• Unless the rotor splines are missing (caused by loose compensator) the only electrical
issue occurs when the setscrew for the alternator plug is screwed in too far shorting
the stator to ground. Always perform continuity and ac output tests (Check for
grounded stator)

Stator resistance: .1-.2 ohms

AC output 16-20 volts ac per 1000 rpm

SPEEDOMETERS
• Most speedometers returned for warranty are not truly bad. Connection problems again
are the major source of problem. (Including circuit board attached to bottom of
speedometer).

• If speedo has power related problems, it will go back into self-test mode and the
odometer will read “TEST” and the needle will sweep across the speedo.

• If you have a speedo sensor/ connection failure, the speedo will freeze up at the speed
that was indicating at the point of failure. This is typically a connection related problem
between the sensor connector and the harness connector.

STARTING ISSUES
Mechanical problems
• Ring gear eccentric

o During the 2002 model year it was determined that the ring gears were
incorrectly machined and were out of round at the root of the teeth. A new
ring gear is available that has corrected this problem and increased ring
gear/pinion gear backlash. The part number for the new ring gear is
ZPN148137.
The ring gear update was incorporated into production on all models
starting with the following project numbers:
Boxer-J3002
Bulldog-G2316
Chopper-N3001
Husky-L2240
Mastiff-M2300
Pitbull-H2591
ProSport-B3001
If you have a starter problem with any bike with a project number lower
that those noted above, a new ring gear will be supplied with a new starter
(This will not apply to 2000 models and earlier that were equipped with
H-D clutch baskets). We will also recommend the installation of a start
module on any bike that does not have one and is experiencing starting
problems.

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 • Jackshaft binding in bushing
• Starter clutch failure

Electrical problems
• Poor connections (battery positive and negative)
• Misaligned solenoid contact (battery positive cable over torqued at solenoid
connection.
• Low battery charge
• Carbon build up on starter solenoid contacts / contact washer (due to insufficient
contact and poor amperage transfer.

STARTING PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS

Before attempting to make any diagnosis of a starting problem:
• Talk to the customer. Does he ride often? Does his bike sit for long periods of
time?
• Verify the complaint.
• Check the condition of battery and connections.

Determine nature of problem

• Does starter engage ring gear?
• Does starter spin when ring gear is engaged?
• Does starter stall when engine comes on to compression stroke?
• Does starter disengage when starter button is released?

Starter noises
• Clicking from either starter relay or starter solenoid: check battery/starter
connections. Possible power loss through E.H.C. and wiring. Try jumping power
from battery directly to solenoid connection on starter. If starter works properly,
it’s in the wiring. Good candidate for start module. (Refer to start module
section.) If starter still not working, inspect solenoid contacts and contact washer
for arcing and carbon build up.
• Starter spins, engine does not turn over. Bad starter clutch.
• Starter zings but doesn’t engage ring gear: Possible out of round ring gear / bent
main shaft or possibly jackshaft binding.
Refer to Service bulletin #SB1000 for detailed instruction for diagnosis and repair of starting
issues.

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 2001 and 2002 models

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START MODULE – 2002 Models and Prior
Module P/N: BD4120-1
Application: Any Big Dog model (2002 and prior)

Description

The start module is an electronic version of the start relay with overload protection and fault
indication. The design will improve the starting system while aiding the process of
troubleshooting. The module controls the current through the starter solenoid as the starter button
is depressed. The installation of the module (P/N: BD4120-1) eliminates the EHC, start relay,
and wire harness as part of the solenoid circuit, removing any potential voltage drops in the
harness critical to the inductive load of the starter solenoid. The EHC provides a signal to
activate the module (see installation instructions) while an indicator (red LED) aids with
troubleshooting a starting issue. (See troubleshooting instructions.)

Installation

Installation of the start module requires no special tools. Remove seat from motorcycle to gain
access to the battery. A rectangular cavity that is located between the two battery terminals.
Place the module in the cavity under the battery strap, which will hold the module in place. Place
the module with the wires are facing away from the battery. If the battery has been replaced and
has no cavity, place the module where the leads can be attached to the terminals. Velcro can be
used to hold the module in place, but it is not necessary. Locate the wire that it attached to the
starter solenoid and discard. It will no longer be used.

With the module in place, connect the 4 wires as per instruction (reference Figure 1). The red
wire attaches to the battery positive terminal, the black wire to the negative battery terminal, the
12AWG green wire (with back sleeve) to the starter solenoid. The small (22AWG) green wire is
the signal wire. When the starter button is depressed there is a voltage present at the green wire.
This signals the module to activate the starter solenoid. If there is excess wire after installation,
secure with a wire tie and stow the wire where it is protected.

Figure 1

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2000- 2002 Models

If the model year is 2000-2002 then proceed as follows (reference Figure 2). Locate the EHC,
which should be mounted to the rear fender (under the seat) or between the two fuel tank halves
(under the dash) depending on the model of motorcycle. Once the EHC is located, remove the
starter relay, which is plugged in socket S1 and discard. The small green wire from the module
has a male spade attached to it. Plug the spade terminal into slot # 2 of socket S1 (see Figure 2).
Route the wires as necessary so they do not become pinched. If the small green wire gets shorted
to ground it will not damage the module, but the module will not function.

Figure 2

1999 models

Locate the EHC and reference Figure 3. The 22AWG wire from the module comes standard with
a .182” male spade, which must be replaced. Cut off the spade and attach a ¼” female spade
terminal. Plug the 22AW0 green wire with the new spade terminal to connection of the EHC (see
Figure 3). Route the wires as necessary. Avoid pinching and 90 degree bending of wire. If the
small green wire becomes shorted, this will not damage the module. The module will not
function.

Figure 3

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Pre–1999 Models

Wiring configurations may vary for models prior to 1999. The best place to connect the 22AWG
green module wire is to first locate the starter solenoid wire and then remove it from the starter
only. There are two options:

• Option 1) Cut off the terminal lead that was attached to the starter solenoid and splice the
small green module wire to the existing starter solenoid wire and insulate.

• Option 2) Locate the end of the solenoid wire that is attached to the wiring system and
remove it. Plug the small green module wire into the same place that the solenoid wire
was removed. Route the wires as necessary. If the small green wire becomes shorted, this
will not damage the module. The module will not function.

Big Dog EHC Replacement of ThunderHeart EHC

Starting with the 2003 model year production, Big Dog motorcycles will no longer use the
ThunderHeart EHC. The Big Dog EHC installed on a 2003 production motorcycles will not
retrofit to the ThunderHeart EHC. There is a version of the Big Dog EHC that was designed to
retrofit on any 2002 and earlier model without any wiring modification needed. Starting in late
2002, if a EHC is ordered for a 2002 and earlier model the new Big Dog EHC will be shipped
and if it is installed on a bike that already has the start module installed, the location of the start
module control wire (small green wire) will change for the system to work properly.

When replacing the ThunderHeart EHC with a Big Dog EHC with the start module installed, the
subsequent procedure must be accomplished for the system to operate properly. The instructions
state to remove the start relay and insert the small green wire into slot #2 of socket S1 on the
EHC. When installing the Big Dog EHC (P/N: BD4030-02A or BD4030-02B) the relay must
NOT be removed. This relay on all Big Dog EHC’s is the headlight relay and not a starter relay.
The small green module wire will be relocated to the position # 1 in the P3 connector on the
EHC. Cut the spade terminal off the green wire and strip back the insulation a ¼”. Crimp on an
Amp socket contact and insert into position # 1. The installation is complete. The ThunderHeart
EHC position #1 in connector P3 is an empty location. The Big Dog EHC utilizes this position
for the green control wire on the start module. Big Dog connector kit P/N RK-03HRNS contains
contacts and a crimping tool to accomplish this task.

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Installation of Compression Releases

If compression releases are installed with a ThunderHeart EHC and start module, the start relay
must be left in the EHC. Use the old start solenoid wire as the power to the compression releases.
The green wire can be spliced into the black/red wire in position # 5 of connector P3 to power
the compression releases.

With installation of compression releases on a Big Dog EHC, use the old starter solenoid wire
for the compression releases and the green wire inserted into position # 1 in connector P3 after
an AMP contact has been crimped onto the wire. This relay functions as a headlight and
compression release relay.

Combination of Location of start module control wire (small green wire)

Components (All options)
ThunderHeart EHC, no Slot # 2 in relay socket (S1) or splice to red/black wire in
compression releases position # 5 in connector P3 or splice to old starter solenoid
wire w/ relay in place
Thunder Heart EHC, with Splice to red/black wire in position # 5 in connector P3 or
compression releases splice to old starter solenoid wire w/ relay in place (now
compression release wire)
Big Dog EHC, no Position # 1 in connector P3 or splice to red wire in position # 5
compression releases in connector P3 or splice to old starter solenoid wire
Big Dog EHC, with Position # 1 in connector P3 or splice to red wire in position # 5
compression releases in connector P3 or splice to old starter solenoid wire (now
compression release wire)

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TROUBLESHOOTING

The module is designed to help troubleshoot a problem when the starter does not engage. The
module has a built in function that indicates either too much current or too little current through
the starter solenoid. This is the red LED on the module (see Figure 1). Under normal starting
conditions, this LED will NOT turn on. If the starter button is depressed and nothing happens,
release the button. Remove the seat from the motorcycle to observe the LED. Looking at the
LED, depress the starter button once more. If the LED lights, there is no current at the starter
solenoid. This problem is either an open circuit or a shorted circuit.

First check to see if the wire is plugged into the solenoid. Make sure that the connection is clean
and tight. Once this is checked, depress the starter button again while watching the LED. If the
LED comes on, then check for a short to ground in the starter solenoid. If there is a short to
ground in the starter solenoid circuit the module will go into a pulse mode. In this mode, current
will flow through the fault causing the module to heat. Do not hold the starter button down for
more than 15 seconds if the solenoid does not engage.

This module does have circuit protection that will protect it under high current conditions (not
shorts to ground). If long engine cranks (more than a minute) are performed on the motorcycle,
after a long ride or extremely hot day, the module will reach a thermal shut down mode. The red
LED will come on, but no current to the solenoid. This is to protect the starter, module and
battery when it becomes excessively hot. In this mode let the module cool for minimum of 5
minutes. After the cool down period the module will perform properly.

If the starter solenoid does not engage when depressing the starter button and the LED light does
not turn on, check to make sure there is battery voltage. The technician should be able to read
battery voltage at the 22AWG green module wire when the button is depressed. If there is no
voltage, check the connection of the green wire and the EHC if applicable.

The entire installation and troubleshooting instructions are only valid if the battery is in good
condition and fully charged. The wiring in the motorcycle must be in good condition and has not
been modified from it original configuration.

NOTE: One of the most common troubleshooting mistakes is to over look the easiest or
most obvious possible causes of a problem. A process of elimination should begin with the
easiest and most obvious possible cause and progress to the more difficult.

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SPEEDO CALIBRATION – 2002 and Prior Models

With ignition off, depress black button located on the face of the speedometer. Depressing black
button down, turn ignition switch on.

When P-U-L-S-E comes into the readout window release the button.

Digits will start flashing beginning on the right side and continuing to the left. When the digit
that needs to be changed flashes depress the black button to change it.

The following are the numbers that need to be displayed to correctly calibrate the speedometer:

• ProSport, Vintage Sports, Pitbull, Vintage Classics and Pro 18's: 065,500
This number corresponds to the larger 70 tooth rear pulley.

• For all models of Softtails and any others that may have the smaller 65 tooth rear pulley, the
corresponding number is: 060,000

• For all models equipped with a BAKER 6-speed transmission the number is: 049,000

The speedometer display will reset it's self with a flashing “T”. Then return to the original
odometer reading.

To toggle between trip and odometer, depress the black button with the switch on.

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BD4112-1 TACHOMETER WIRING KIT – 1999 to 2001 Models

Contents: 1 harness
1 female plug
1 male plug
4 female pins
4 male pins
3 crimp splices
1 ¼” eyelet terminal

Wiring Instructions:

1. Red to red/black from key switch.

2. White to green/white from main harness.
3. Green to yellow from coil.
4. Black to ground.
5. Brown wire must be cut for proper calibration. Tape ends of cut brown wire and push the
two ends back into the tachometer.

Any problems that are encountered with the BIG DOG/AUTOMETER tachometers must be
resolved by returning the tach to the AUTOMETER service center at the address below: (The
returned tachometer must be accompanied with a return mailing address (UPS) and a description
of the problem(s) that require attention.)

ANY attempt to dissemble the tach will result in voiding of the warranty of the unit. This
includes replacement of burned out light bulbs.

Attention: Mr. Jim Wallin

AUTOMETER Customer Service
413 West Elm Street
Sycamore, IL 60178

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 N/
A
BROWN
WHITE-HIGHBEAM
YELLOW -LOW BEAM
PURPLE
RED

PURPLE
GREEN/WHITE-T
AIL
RED/WHITE-BRAKE
RED BROWN
RED RED
GREEN YELLOW /BLACK
BLACK GREEN
BLACK YELLOW
RED
BLACK ORANGE
WHI TE/RED
BLACK RED
GREEN RED/BLACK
RED
N/
A

I
GN BAT
N/
A
N/
A
N/
A

WHITE/PURPLE
ORANGE/WHI TE
STARTER
YELLOW /BLACK RELAY
4 3 2 1
YELLOW
BLUE
5 6 7 8 YELLOW
WHITE
RED

BLK

N/
A
N/
A

BLACK/RED
WHITE/BLACK
GRAY
WHITE/BROWN
ORANGE/WHITE RED
RED/YELLOW GREEN
BLACK

BROWN R.TURN
RED HIGHBEAM
ORANGE OIL
YELLOW NEUTRAL
GREEN
BLACK L.TURN
BLUE
PURPLE
4 5 6
1 2 3
1 4 7
2 5 8
3 6 9

1 4 7
2 5 8
3 6 9

15 12 9 6 3
14 11 8 5 2
13 10 7 4 1
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