‘QIANA’ FIBRE TO FASHION.

SUBMITTED TO- SUBMITTEDBY-

MR.VASANT KOTHARI DIGVIJAY PANDEY
M-FTECH(1ST SEM)

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOY, BANGALORE

 TABLE OF CONTENT
PAGE NO

 INTRODUCTION………………………………………………………………..03

 Some garment picture made of ‘QIANA FIBRE’……………...04

 MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF QIANA FIBRE …………..05-08

 MELT SPINNING……………………..………………………………..06

 PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERSTICS OF QIANA FIBRE….09-12

 APPLICATION AND USES OF QIANA FIBRE………………………13

 Resource and references…………………………………………………..14

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INTRODUCTION:
Qiana is a silky nylon fiber first
developed by DuPont in 1968. Initially intended for high-end fashions, it
became a popular material in the 1970s for faux-silk, men's shirts,
displaying bold patterns. The shirts were generally cut tight and included
wide collars to fit over the collars of the double-knit suit coats which were
worn popularly to discos
Dated on Friday, JULY 5.1968 at a press preview in Manhattan's First
National City Bank Building, the chemical Goliath unveiled its latest
unnatural discovery: Qiana. (Pronounced kee-ah-nah.).
Boasting qualities that are superior to the most luxurious silk fabrics, Qiana
gives all the appearance of silk—from the luster of its surface yarn to its
light weight, drape and color. Added to this, exotic sounding Qiana—a
computerized combination of random letters—is a practical drip-dry
wonder that can be machine-washed and still resist wrinkles.
To the trade, it was known simply as "Fiber Y." Even at the press preview,
Du Pont took no chances of leaking the process before it hits the market at
year's end. Six models wearing Qiana garments were escorted by armed
guards to prevent any overanxious competitor from the common practice of
snipping a sample swatch.
The versatile new fabric, which sells for about $5 to $8 per pound (versus
$9.30 for silk) at that time, will be found initially only in women's fine
apparel, but eventually will be used in all types of clothing. For Du Pont,
whose sales and profits, after a long lag, have shown an upturn this year,
costly Qiana is not expected to mean an overnight boom. It will, however,
take the company into a new area—and help offset sagging textile profits
caused by overproduction.
Designers such as Emilio Pucci used Qiana for their clothing. It had a
wonderful feel and drape, especially for a synthetic fabric. It was used
widely in the '70's for evening wear to disco (the look popularized by John
Travolta) to everyday.
The fabric became a popular one for all types of clothing. Synthetics started
to wane in the '80's as people pushed for more natural alternatives. You can

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go back to the days of wonderful Qiana by buying vintage clothing made
from it!
Some garment picture made of ‘QIANA FIBRE’

FIGURE-1 FIGURE-2

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FIGURE-3 heffyscollections.com
MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF QIANA FIBRE:

QIANA is polymer of NYLON PACM-12.QIANA is aliphatic-aromatic

nylon fibre.it is formed by polycondensation of bis(p-aminocyclohexyl)
methane and dodecanedioic acid

bis(p-aminocyclohexyl) methane-

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PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF bis(p-aminocyclohexyl) methane-

PHYSICAL STATE yellowish semi-solid

MELTING POINT 35 C
BOILING POINT 339 C
SPECIFIC GRAVITY 0.96 - 0.98
SOLUBILITY IN WATER Insoluble
SOLVENT SOLUBILITY
Ph
VAPOR DENSITY
AUTOIGNITION
NFPA RATINGS Health: 3; Flammability: 1; Reactivity: 0
REFRACTIVE INDEX
FLASH POINT 153 C
STABILITY Stable under ordinary conditions

TABLE-01

dodecanedioic acid –

PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF dodecanedioic acid

MOLECULER FORMULA C12H22O4

MOLECULER WEIGHT 230.30

MELTING POINT 128C

BOILING POINT 250C at 10 mmHg

SOLUBILITY IN WATER 30 mg/L at 23C

IMPURITY Degree of purity 100%

GENERAL COMMENT Vapour pressure is reported as: Log (VP-mmHg) (-4.968) 25C.

TABLE-2

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PROCESS-
First condensation of bis(p-aminocyclohexyl) methane and
dodecanedioic acid is done and we get solid polymer and we divide this
solid polymer in small chips. And then fibre is produced by melt spinning.

(QIANA)

MELT SPINNING :
Because of low solubility in low boiling and inexpensive organic solvents
nylon PACM-12 required technique for converting solid polymer into
fibres;hence melt spinning method is used to produce fibre.

Chips of pre dried polymer are fed into melting grid whose holes are so
small that only passage of molten polymer is possible.The polymer melted
in contact with the hot grid and dripped into a pool where it become the
supply for the spinning itself.

The molten polymer is moved forward to a gear type pump that provides
both high pressure and a constant rate of flow to the final filter and
spinnerette.the filter consist of either sintered metal candle filters ,several
metal screens of increasing fineness or graded sand arranged in such a way
that finest sand is at the bottom.After being filtered the molten polymer at
pressure of several thousand pounds per square inch is extruded through the
small capillaries in the heavily constructed spinneretteWe put the

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temperature of spinnrette atabout 20-30 c above the melting point of nylon

PACM-12 which is 275c. FIGURE -4

After passing through the spinnerette the fibre strand forwarded towards the
drawing roller. As fibre strand come out of the spinnerette it comes into
contact of cold air for cooling .For drawing we put the second roller speed
faster(usually 400%) than the supply roller. The long molecule of polymer
which is randomly positioned in molten polymer when extruded from
spinnerette tend to form ‘crystalline’ areas of molecular dimensions as the
polymer solidify in the form of freshly spun fibre.

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 FIGURE-5

PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERSTICS OF QIANA

FIBRE:
 Morphology of fibre-

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 FIGURE-6

Two-step melt spinning, comprised of spinning and drawing, is considered

to be the conventional method to manufacture nylon filaments. After
melting, filtering, and deaerating, the molten polymer is extruded through a
spinneret into a chamber where the melt solidifies into a filament form. At
this stage, the filaments have little molecular orientation, and their slight
birefringence is due to shear forces set up during extrusion. In order to
achieve desirable properties through molecular orientation and crystallinity,
the newly formed filaments must be drawn.

In essence, cold drawing stretches chains in amorphous regions, but

molecular folds are restricted and the molecules orient themselves along the
fiber axis direction, resulting in enhanced orientation and high crystallinity.
In the case of nylons, which have sheet-like crystal structures, drawing may
enable the hydrogen-bonded polyamide sheets to slip past each other and
form more oriented structure . Hot drawing is a procedure using high
temperature during drawing and annealing under restraint after drawing.
Exposure to high temperature helps to increase the draw ratio, and higher
moduli and tenacity can be achieved.. Ultra drawing of solidified
crystalline material induces a high degree of chain extension , which leads

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to very high tensile strength and modulus. This results in a so-called high-
performance fiber.

FIGURE-7

 Crystalline structure-
 Aliphatic polyamides are able to crystallize mostly because of
strong intermolecular hydrogen bonds through the amide groups
, and because of Vander walls forces between the methylene
chains. Since these unique structural and thermo-mechanical
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 properties of nylons are dominated by the hydrogen bonds in
these polyamides, quantum chemistry can be used to determine
the hydrogen bond potential.

 The tenacity- of QIANA fibre is 3-3.5g/den and elongation at

break of 20%-30%.
 Density -1.03 g/cc
 The modulus- is approx.100 g/den
 Moisture regain- 2.0-2.5 which much lower than nylon 6 and
nylon 66.
 The dimensional stability is high because of high glass-
transition tempreture and it is stable upto 180 c.
 Melting point -275 c.
 Extremely chemically stable .
 No mildew or bacterial effects.
 Degraded by light as natural fibers.
 The -COOH and -NH2 end-groups in nylons are sensitive to light,
heat, oxygen, acids and alkali. When exposed to elevated
temperatures, unmodified nylons undergo molecular weigh
degradation, which results in loss of mechanical properties. The
degradation is highly time/temperature dependent.

 Permanent set by heat and steam.

 Abrasion resistant.
 Lustrous- Nylon fibers have the luster of silk.
 Easy to wash.
 The Qiana fibre was also used in Millitary applications such as Ballon
clothes,Glider tow ropes.
 DYEING-Can be pre colored or dyed in wide range of colors; dyes
are applied to the molten mass of nylon or to the yarn or finished
fabric.Disperse,acid dyes are used

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  The dyeing efficiency of nylon fibers is enhanced due to the end
groups -COOH and -NH2, which exhibit polar and hydrophilic
characteristics. Dye diffusion into fibers is closely related to the
rate of dyeing, level of dyeing through dye migration, wet fastness
properties of dyes, etc. It is generally believed that dye diffusivity
is independent on dye concentration, with some exception

 Resilient.
 Filament yarn provides smooth, soft, fabric.
 Spun yarn lend fabrics light weight and warmth
 Nylon fibers are used for the manufacture of split table-pie fibers.
These fibers find application in high performance wipes, synthetic
suede, heat insulators, battery separators and specialty papers.

 Different kind of
texture can be produced
by applying certain
effects.

FIGURE-8

APPLICATION AND USES OF QIANA FIBRE:

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• Generally used in apparel product like disco shirts ,lady gown and
where more lusture is required because it resembles like silk
lusture.
• QIANA fibre is used in high performance NONWOVENS USAGE
products.

 The fiber has outstanding durability and excellent physical

properties. Like PET fiber, it has a high melting point, which
conveys good high- temperature performance. The fiber is more
water sensitive than PET; despite this fact, nylon is not considered
a comfortable fiber in contact with the skin. Its toughness makes it
a major fiber of choice in carpets, including needle punched floor-
covering products. Because of its relatively high cost, nylon has
somewhat limited use in nonwoven products. It is used as a
blending fiber in some cases, because it conveys excellent tear
strength. The resiliency and wrinkle recovery performance of a
nonwoven produced from nylon is not as excellent as that from
PET fiber

 The stability of the QIANA-bonded nonwoven

fabric at 610°F is unexpected, in view of the fact
that the softening point of QIANA fiber is stated
in the literature to be 447°F, and the melting point
525°F, and that the nonwoven fabrics of this
invention employing QIANA fibers as the binder
fiber are formed by hot calendering the NOMEX-
QIANA fibrous web at 475°-495°F.


• Because of high lusture it can be use in rugs to increase aesthetic

value and providing sharp motifs in woolen carpets .

Resource and references:

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 http://books.google.com/books?
id=AYjFoLCNHYUC&pg=PA458&lpg=PA458&dq=nylon+pacm-12&source=bl&ots=GO-
tUEavGA&sig=JsyBYPYWBMFCny5vu2TAs8uaKoU&hl=en&ei=FtZ4TOyRDoSlccbApO
oF&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=8&ved=0CCoQ6AEwBw#v=onepage&q=ny
lon%20pacm-12&f=false

 http://books.google.com/books?
id=I0ncwaSwEvsC&printsec=frontcover&dq=A+text+book+of+fibre+science+and+technolo
gy&source=bl&ots=zPj-DG-
kCN&sig=Y3_nW9AG4hRtEMASGaAmBmdLIIc&hl=en&ei=Z-
54TMaOI9ePcNeooYYG&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBQQ6AE
wAA#v=onepage&q&f=false

 http://www.engr.utk.edu/mse/Textiles/Nylon%20fibers.htm

 http://cameo.mfa.org/browse/record.asp?subkey=6508

 http://heffyscollections.blogspot.com/2008/08/qiana-by-dupont.html

 http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,941636,00.html

 Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

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