DON’T MISS...

PULLED PORK NACHOS • CHOC, GINGER & BOURBON FRANGIPANE TART • CARAMEL & BANANA ECLAIRS • GIANT PAN COOKIE

ON SALE 1-30 APRIL 2018 £4.50

FOOD MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR

New, fresh, inspiring…

• Exclusive Diana Henry menu
• Risotto gets even better!
• Healthy veggie winners

FRIDAY NIGHT JOY

James Martin’s cheesy
Texas meatballs

MIDWEEK
MADE EASY
10 ingredients
you need in
your freezer

GAMECHANGER ROAST
Dan Doherty’s lemon
DIJDLFO TUVGàOH 
spiced cauli cheese

BE A BE T TER COOK
• STEP BY STEP: CHICKEN KATSU CURRY
• KNOW-HOW: ALL ABOUT LAMB CUTS
• TECHNIQUE: DIY LEMON CURD
SPRING IN A BOWL
Pea, pecorino,
spring green and
asparagus risotto
This product is high in fibre containing more than 6g of fibre per 100g of product
 The
INSPIR ATION
ISSUE
Do you remember the first time
something you tasted made an impression on you?
Follow Karen Food, by its nature, has its roots in culture, in the
on Twitter
@deliciouseditor things our mothers, fathers, grandparents and friends
and on Instagram
@editorkarenb
cooked – and still cook. The experiences of our youth
(good and bad) resonate in the eating of our adulthood.
As we grow up, learn new things and travel, inspiration
comes from other sources: from places we visit, trying
dishes that assail, tease, please and sometimes challenge our taste buds.
Combine tantalising flavours with sunshine and a view over sea or snow-
covered mountains, add laughter and good conversation around the table and
the pleasure is heightened. But equally that happy memory can be a solitary
one, sitting alone eating a bowl of the sweetest, plumpest mussels in a bustling
café, or a flavour-bomb morsel grabbed hot from a street stall.
Such memories are filed away in a folder marked ‘good times’ (I like to call
them ‘delicious. moments’) that we can pull out whenever we want to muse on
times we want to return to – but there’s a poignant edge because the likelihood
is we never will. The result is a sort of sensory DNA, defining who we are.
In this April issue of delicious. – ‘the inspiration issue’ – we’ve tried to
capture as many experiences and memory-trigger moments as we can. There
are Ravinder Bhogal’s caramel recipes, inspired by a film that has almost
nothing to do with food but everything to do with solidarity and camaraderie;
there are Nuno Mendes’ memories of his childhood in Lisbon; and there are
my own recollections of days in my grandad’s bakery…
You’ll find good things to eat on almost every page, and we hope these,
in turn, will inspire you. Happy cooking.

KAREN BARNES, EDITOR

PS p78 for our special offer.

DON’T MISS OUT! Turn to

Subscribe to delicious. magazine

and receive Diana Henry’s new
book How to Eat a Peach, worth £25
April
FIVE GOOD THINGS TO DO

1 Book…
…tickets to see The Guernsey Literary
and Potato Peel Pie Society, out on 20 April.

2 Read…
First it was a bestselling book and now it’s
a film, with cast including Lily James (right),
Matthew Goode and Penelope Wilton. It’s a …First Catch: Study of a Spring Meal
(fictional) story of life on Guernsey during (£16.99; Hardie Grant) by rising-star chef and
the German occupation in World War II food writer Thom Eagle. There’s a slew of
(not fictional). Times were hard and books that plough a similar furrow, but not to
food was scarce – hence the potato the standard of this collection of cloth-bound
peel pies. It will be interesting musings. The topics he covers range from
to see how the book’s format the boiling of veg to cooking with blood…
(a series of letters) translates to Really, it’s compelling! If you want to dip into
the big screen. his writing beforehand, visit his excellent blog,
In Search of Lost Thyme: thomeagle.com.

Five quick things to make with… Radishes

The super-simple side
Braised herby radishes
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
Heat 50g butter in a large deep pan
over a medium-high heat, then add
350g mixed seasonal radishes, halved
or quartered depending on size. Turn
down the heat to medium and cook for
1 minute. Add 1 crushed garlic clove
and 100ml dry white wine. Turn up the
heat and bubble for 5 minutes until
most of the liquid has evaporated.
Season, then stir in a large handful of
mixed chopped fresh dill, parsley and
mint. Serve warm.
3 Radishes with herby butter
Beat softened butter with
1 crushed garlic clove and a large
handful of mixed chopped fresh mint,
parsley and dill. Season, then spoon
into a bowl. Chill, then serve with
a chilled bunch of breakfast radishes.
4 Sherry-roasted radishes
Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Roast a few bunches of radishes
in a large roasting tray with a generous
glug of oil, a glug of dry sherry and a
couple of knobs of butter. Season and
roast for 25-30 minutes until tender.

2 Quick radish pickle

Thinly slice a bunch of radishes,
put in a bowl and stir in 3 tbsp each
red wine vinegar and caster sugar.
Set aside for 10 minutes to infuse and
gently pickle, then stir in chopped
fresh dill and a pinch of crushed pink
peppercorns to serve.
5 Radish, orange and
burrata salad
Slice a bunch of radishes, then toss in
a bowl with fresh orange segments,
rocket leaves and chopped spring
onion. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive
oil and the juice of 1 lemon. Serve with
burrata and a drizzle of balsamic glaze.
 delicious moments.

3 Plan...
…a visit to St Andrew’s in Scotland, a town with cultural heart and soul.
Here’s an incentive: every Sunday after Chapel, university students do the Pier
Walk in their vibrant red gowns – come rain, snow or shine. It’s a great
spectacle, the fresh air is a tonic and anyone can join in. Incentive number
two: on 6 May there’s the Fife Food Festival, run by students to showcase
the best Scottish food and producers, all in aid of charity.
fifefoodfest.wixsite.com/fifefoodfestival; tickets £5

4 Get…
…a full Diana Henry fix. Here’s how: cook
her French-inspired menu on p64; hear her
talk about her life and travels at The
Stratford Literary Festival on 22 April
(2.30pm, Stratford ArtsHouse; tickets £12;
visit stratfordliterary
festival.co.uk for info
RECIPES: LOTTIE COVELL. RECIPE PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE.
5 Do… …a spot of armchair gardening, browse seed websites such as the
inspiring sarahraven.com or crocus.co.uk and plan some home-grown
goodies to plant now, ready to harvest later. Even if you only have a sunny
windowsill you can grow herbs in pots and the smallest amount of outdoor
space is enough to experiment with raising multi-hued beetroot and
courgettes in a deep tub. So satisfying.

and to book); and

STYLING: LUIS PERAL. OTHER PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, BEN GOULTER

hear an Extra Portion

interview with her on
the delicious.
podcast in April.
Find the podcast
on iTunes, via the
podcast app or
at delicious
magazine.
co.uk.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 5
 26
116
ON THE COVER
ASPARAGUS, PEA & MINT RISOTTO, p22
Recipe Jen Bedloe
Photograph Stuart West
Food styling Rosie Ramsden
Styling Victoria Eldridge
CORRECTION
The photograph on our March
cover was incorrectly credited
to Gareth Morgans. The
photographer was Maja Smend
24 37
APRIL 2018
CONTENTS
YOUR RECIPE INSPIR ATION 74 TASTES LIKE HOME A dish from Nigeria
by way of the Brazilian coast
21 ALWAYS A WINNER: RISOTTO Three fresh
ways to cook it for spring
24 ROAST OF THE MONTH Dan Doherty’s BE A BE T TER COOK
chicken, stuffing and cauli cheese
102 IN THE delicious. KITCHEN Tips, tricks
26 SECRET HISTORIES The stories behind and know-how from our experts
classic recipes, with new versions
107 CHEF’S STEP BY STEP Chicken katsu curry
37 MEMORIES ARE MADE OF THIS The delicious. – a Japanese dude-food favourite
team cook dishes dear to their hearts
44 RECIPE HALL OF FAME Classic almond
macaroons, plus a choc-hazelnut twist
RE AD ALL ABOUT IT
48 STAR OF THE SEASON: PURPLE SPROUTING 4 FIVE GOOD THINGS TO DO IN APRIL
BROCCOLI Add colour and crunch to 8 delicious. ONLINE SHOP Our top picks
a Thai-style salad and a tasty starter
9 INBOX What’s on your mind this month?
51 GILL MELLER The River Cottage chef goes
10 FOR STARTERS Events, trends and news
into the woods for a bit of pigeon
12 WISH LIST The best things for food lovers
56 THE OBJECT OF MY CONFECTION Writer in
on the shelves right now
residence Ravinder Bhogal on caramel
64 DIANA HENRY The revered food writer 14 A SLICE OF MY LIFE GBBO’s Sophie Faldo
16 FOOD HERO Severn & Wye Smokery
shares a French menu and memories
20 WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT... Columnist
72 THE DIG-IN FRIDAY NIGHT SUPPER TV chef
James Martin’s Texan crowd-pleaser Kay Plunkett-Hogge salutes spring
 T HE
delicious.
PROMISE
RECIPES THAT WORK Every
recipe is rigorously tested
44 by our food team, using
state-of-the-art Fisher &
Paykel ovens and hobs,
so you can be confident
they work every time.
INGREDIENTS We aim to use
easy-to-find seasonal
ingredients. We’ll tell you
where to find any unusual
ingredients and/or what to
substitute them with.
We use higher-welfare
meat for testing, supplied
by The Ginger Pig
(thegingerpig.co.uk).

56 96 ✪ This symbol next to an

ingredient means there
are more ideas for using
it on our Loose Ends page.
HONEST COOKING TIMES
Unlike many magazines,
our timings include
prep such as chopping.
34 THE NEW DINNER PARTY RULES Read them Hands-on time is when
you’re chopping, stirring
to ensure you get invited back… or frying. Oven/simmering
20 PAGES
time is when you can
77 DRINKS Top wine picks plus premium gins with no leave the dish in the oven
94 THE SANE VIEW Are artificial sweeteners fads or false or on the hob.

as harmless as they say? health Indicates a vegetarian

recipe. Indicates a vegan
110 TEST REPORT On trial: a tapas cookery claims, just recipe. Indicates a
course, plus greek yogurt and more
nutritious gluten-free recipe.
recipes and Whenever you see
116 HUNGRY TRAVELLER Chefs on the places informed
KNOW- this symbol, you’ll
HOW
and dishes that have inspired them find useful extra
know-how information about the
122 GREAT ESCAPES Michelin-starred dining at recipe.

a glorious Cotswolds hotel
130 RANT Not a fan of no-bookings
restaurants? Join the queue
OTHER GOOD THINGS
78 SUBSCRIPTION OFFER Get your free copy of
Diana Henry’s new book
106 NOMINATE AND WIN Hurry! Entries for the
delicious. Produce Awards end soon
114 COOK AND WIN... A trio of chef’s knives
115 LOOSE ENDS Use up this month’s leftovers
123 JUST FOR YOU Win a £5,000 Caribbean jaunt
128 FOOD LOVER’S CROSSWORD
82 FRESH FROM THE FREEZER Midweek meals This symbol means
MAKE you’ll find an option
to make the most of frozen staples AHEAD
to make part or all
87 THE BUDGET RECIPE Honey and mustard of the recipe in advance.
baked chicken and rice Indicates you can freeze
all or most of the recipe.
88 QUICK MEAL FOR ONE Crispy tortilla rice bowl Unless stated, freeze the
finished dish for up to
89 THE 5:2 RECIPE For fasting (and non-fasting) 3 months. Defrost and
days: a prawn, vegetable and quinoa broth heat until piping hot.
NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION
90 BATCH-COOK RECIPE Make lots of lentil and Recipes are analysed for
kidney bean dhal and serve it two ways nutritional content by an
expert nutritionist. They’re
92 TAKE A PACK OF... cream cheese – then use it to calculated with precision
but may vary, depending
make four easy weekday recipes on the ingredients used.
96 IT’S ALL ABOUT BALANCE Meat-free, lower- Calculations include only
listed ingredients.
carb dishes packed with nutrition
PRICES are correct at
100 HEALTHY MAKEOVER Lighter cottage pie time of going to press.

129 RECIPE INDEX

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 7
in the know.

Our top choices

delicious.
ONLINE
SHOP this month…
The delicious. online shop was created
to give small producers the route to market
many of them need – and to give you the
chance to buy their excellent products.
But there are plenty of beautiful homewares too.
Here are my top picks. MARTINE TINNEY, ART EDITOR

FANTASTIC MR FOX
I’m a sucker for new
tea towels (my kitchen
drawer is full of them)
and I’m always on the
lookout for something
a bit funky. I love the
clean colours and
design of this range and
have bought two sets!
Scion Living by Dexam Mr
Fox tea towels, £15 for
a set of two, in two
colourways

HERE COMES THE SUN

In my dreams I’m all
set for summer with this
portable pizza oven, which
doubles as a barbie. It’s
not cheap but it’ll be the
star of my outdoor feasts.
Firepod portable stone-
baked pizza oven
in azure blue, £445

MY GO-TO SNACK…
I always keep a bowl of
tomatoes on the side and
this mix from the Isle of
Wight is packed with
flavour. Tomato Stall
speciality mixed tomato
punnet, £1.95 for 250g

FIND THESE ITEMS AND LOTS MORE…

Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/shop
NOTE Delivery charges vary. See product information
on each item for details. Where items are chilled, delivery
prices are higher to cover the cost of fast delivery and
keep-cold packaging, but our producers are doing
everything they can to keep P&P to a minimum.

Tell us what you think of
delicious. (good and bad)
or send your tips, pictures
and queries to:
info@delicious
magazine.co.uk.
Or write to us at:
delicious. magazine,
Eye to Eye Media Ltd,
Axe & Bottle Court,
70 Newcomen Street,
London SE1 1YT
See what other
delicious. fans are
talking about at facebook.com/
deliciousmagazineuk
Follow us at twitter.com/
deliciousmag
Follow us at instagram.
com/deliciousmag
THIS
MONTH’S
STAR
PRIZE*
This
exclusive
prize from
Champagne
Gosset is
a selection of the house’s core
range, the Grande Réserve,
Grand Rosé and Grand Blanc
de Blancs, beautifully
packaged in a gift box.
Founded in 1584, Champagne
Gosset (the oldest champagne
house) uses its years of
experience to craft fine wines
with great character, to
serve with or without food.
champagne-gosset.com
*A FULL MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER MUST BE SUPPLIED.
WIN! £50
SAINSBURY’S
VOUCHERS
ENTRANTS MUST BE OVER 18. FOR FULL TS&CS, TURN TO P129
Great recipes need great
ingredients. For your chance
to win £50 Sainsbury’s
vouchers, solve the cryptic
clue on the magazine spine,
then email your answer, with
your name, full UK mainland
address and phone number,
to info@deliciousmagazine.
co.uk. Competition entry
closes 30 April 2018.
Vouchers can be used in
stores only (see p129 for
Ts&Cs). February’s cryptic
clue solution: marjoram
have your say.
INBOX...
FROM OUR
SUBJECT: Less is more SUBJECT: No
STAR FROM: Genesta Gunn myths, no fads
EMAIL How inspiring it was to read Julian Baggini’s FROM : Gill
article “When ‘just saying no’ is a wise Walters
move” [March, p36]. Every year I give up sweet treats I was delighted
for Lent and am often quizzed: “I didn’t know you were to find the
religious” or “Is it to lose weight?” My reason is always article on
the same: to reset my body and appreciate things. It’s Dr Aujla and
too easy to nip into a coffee his philosophy on food in your
shop and leave with a cake March issue [p108]. It’s exactly
and a drink with no thought what I believe: that food is our
that a treat has now become most important medication and
an everyday thing. During can prevent, relieve or even cure a
Lent I cook more, make my number of health conditions. The
lunches and appreciate the recipes look great, without the need
luxuries. The bad habits do to buy lots of strange ingredients
sneak back, but when I ask: (which then sit in the cupboard
“Do I really need this?” most until the next clearout). I can’t wait
of the time the answer is no. to try them – and to get the book.
SUBJECT: Oil change SUBJECT: Reproducing mum’s recipes
FROM : Jane Pryor FROM : Michelle Turner
I was grateful for Sue I was amused to read about food writers
Quinn’s article on the and chefs having varied experiences
best oils to cook with relating to their mother’s cooking
[March, p104]. This [March, p20]. My mum makes several
has confused me for great dishes but whenever I try to
some time, and I’ve reproduce them, using her handwritten
now pinned Professor recipes, they turn out looking or tasting
Grootveld’s guide to quite different – she usually makes
cooking oils on my alterations that she rarely writes down.
fridge. My husband I once asked her how to make a larger
always chuckles about quantity of her pea and ham soup. Her
what he calls “health response was to multiply the ingredients by four. I took this literally
fads” and has never
stopped using butter
and added four times the 60g butter required. I love butter but this
was a serious overdose. When I called her she laughed and said, “Of
(his motto is course you don’t multiply the butter by four!” When I cook her
“everything in recipes now, I refer to a similar one to cross-check the ingredient
moderation”). Having quantities and cooking times. So thanks, Mum, for helping me to
said that, he did agree develop my own unique style – with a few hiccups along the way!
to me binning a
half-used bottle of What YOU’VE been making this month...
sunflower oil.
Maple syrup & smoked Harissa beef with Classic ragù & Sausage, fennel & chilli
bacon scones crispy potatoes mozzarella pasta bake griddle-pan pizza
@palola31 @dinneratthecartmas Biagio Amata Lindsey Lax
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 9
 FOR STARTERS
N E WS, N I B B L E S O F K N OW L E D G E A N D G O O D T H I N G S TO D O R I G H T N OW

OPPORTUNITY WORTH IN THIS

MONTH...
OF A LIFETIME OVER
Do you dream of a career in £45,000! 1564 William
cookery but don’t know how Shakespeare was born
in Stratford-upon-
to get started? Renowned Avon on 26 April. The
culinary school Le Cordon Bleu playwright often referenced food
is offering a place for an and drink, famously observing in
Romeo and Juliet: “’Tis an ill cook
aspiring chef on its prestigious that cannot lick his own fingers.”
one-year Grand Diplôme in
London with the launch of
a new scholarship.
1789 A mutiny took
place on Royal Navy
Designed to support someone looking for a career change, the Julia Child Scholarship ship Bounty when the
is inspired by the celebrated American cook, writer and Le Cordon Bleu alumnus, who went captain William Bligh
to train as a chef in Paris after working as a copywriter. The prize includes an internship was set adrift in the
South Pacific on 28
at London restaurant Mere with chef Monica Galetti, plus mentorship from several Cordon April during a voyage
Bleu alumni. Student accommodation agency Londonist will also provide the winner with to collect breadfruit
a plush room in the capital for the duration of the course. trees from Tahiti.
HURRY! Applications close midnight 18 April. The winner will be chosen in June to start the diploma
in September 2018. For more info and to enter, visit cordonbleu.edu/london/julia-child-scholarship 1912 Oysters,
roast squab and
Waldorf pudding
were served in
DID YOU KNOW…? first class at the
How often Since being invented in the USA last dinner on the

do you cook from the in 1967, Pringles have been made in

more than 100 flavours. Although
Titanic before it hit
an iceberg at 11.40pm on 14 April

FREEZER? XTRA Tangy Buffalo Wing and

and sunk three hours later.

Memphis BBQ went down a storm, it

Brits are devoted to their freezers. Over wasn’t that way with Mayo Potato or 1944 Alice Waters
Blueberry & Hazelnut which, once was born on 28 April
90% of us depend on its frozen assets to in New Jersey. In
whip up meals on a weekly basis. Here’s popped, could easily be stopped.
1971 she started
how often you dip in there… organic Californian
restaurant Chez Panisse.
3% Now world-famous, it’s
been credited with founding
FO R TN IG H TLY the farm-to-table movement. FREEZER INFORMATION: PRESS@MINTEL.COM AND GREG FUNNELL
12% 5%

29%
EVERY
OTHER
DAY 50 % OTHER
1% AR YOU
ARE U LISTENING TO OUR PODCASTS?
This m th the delicious. podcast celebrates Easter in
AND HERE’S WHAT WE’RE MOST LIKELY TO Rome, and finds out how to make proper Italian gelato.
KEEP STASHED AWAY… Author Skye McAlpine invites you to her ‘Table in Venice’
L Frozen vegetables (peas, sweetcorn) 76% and you can find out how social enterprise Bread For Life is helping to
LFrozen chips 66% feed the hungry in Syria. Plus: Oliver Rowe reveals how he’s bringing fine
LIce cream 58% dining back to Devon’s Dartington Hall and chef Theo Randall shares
LChicken nuggets/fish fingers 56% a slice of his life. DON’T MISS your weekly Extra Portions of interviews
Turn to p82 for recipes from the freezer and food stories, too. Find the podcasts on iTunes or the Podcast app,
or visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 in the know.

DATES FOR
TR ENDWAT CH YOUR DIARY
Modern seafood APRIL & MAY
12-15 APRIL
Restaurateur James London Coffee Festival
London’s Old Truman
Ramsden goes Brewery is host to Europe’s
trawling for the Snappy largest celebration of the
capital’s tastiest platter dark stuff with more than
piscine nibbles at The 250 exhibitors. Watch beans
Oystermen being roasted, create your
With eating habits trending away own latte art, taste blends
from all-out, red-in-tooth-and-claw and learn to brew the perfect
carnivorousness, those who nonetheless prefer Prawn on the Lawn’s (prawnonthelawn.com; see cup. Don’t miss baristas
competing to be Coffee
animal-based protein might be pleased to see p113) charming rustic sensibilities and eclectic
Master 2018 (awarded on
how fresh the new London fish scene is. menu that may include crab som tam, sichuan Sunday). From £14.50;
If you’re one of these flexi-pescy folk – or prawns and mackerel with ‘nduja. londoncoffeefestival.com
indeed you just love fish – then I’d first head to More intrepid diners might want to take a run
Parsons (parsonslondon.co.uk) in Covent at London Shell Co (londonshellco.com), a barge 21-22 APRIL
Bishop Auckland Food
Garden. Start with brown shrimp croquettes and restaurant on Regent’s Canal. The set menu is Festival, County Durham
crab pissaladière, then get elbow-deep in the simple – devilled crab, mackerel with sprouting Regional produce, tempting
fish pie. Drink weissburgunder. Thank me later. broccoli, chilli and almonds – but the sourcing street food and stars such
as Phil Vickery and GBBO
Nearby is The Oystermen (oystermen.co.uk), a and cooking are top drawer. The esoteric Gilly’s
winner Candice Brown are
haven for seafood lovers with its daily-changing Fry Bar (gillysfrybar.com) in Finsbury Park is an on the menu here. From
oysters and dishes that include grilled octopus Anglo-Japanese chip shop serving battered 17-20 April the festival will
with harissa and lemon, and skate wing with sausage, curry sauce chip butties, fish tempura visit schools and leisure
centres in the area to
hazelnuts and lardo. Head north to Highbury for and fried prawn heads. Weird and wonderful. demonstrate healthy recipes
and promote food knowledge.
Entry free, cookery theatre
tickets £5; bishopauckland

NEED A HAND GROWING YOUR SMALL BUSINESS? foodfestival.co.uk

In partnership with Great Taste food awards, The Seed 28-29 APRIL
Adam’s Liverpool Spring Festival
Chocolate, Fund is offering 12 fledgling food and drink Enjoy food for every palate
the 2016 businesses a place on their summer Seed Academy and pocket at this seasonal
winner programme, with mentoring by Planet Organic celebration at Sefton Park,
founder Renée Elliott and John Farrand, head of the from vegan junk food to fresh
oysters, plus lots of local
Guild of Fine Food. After the workshops/seminars produce to try. There’ll be
the business with the best pitch will win a year of lifestyle workshops too,
support worth £100,000. The 2017 champion, Firepot including yoga, gardening,
knitting and meditation, to
by Outdoorfood, has been expanding since its win,
help you enjoy spring to the
while 2016 winner Adam’s Chocolate is now stocked full. From £7; springliverpool
in stores including Wholefoods. It’s a chance to turn foodanddrinkfestival.co.uk
your seedling venture into a fruitful business.
Entrants must have been trading for less than three 5-7 MAY
Exeter Festival of South
years with a turnover of less than £1 million per year. West Food & Drink
Entries close 30 April and the Seed Academy class More than 100 producers
of 2018 will be announced in May. theseedfund.co.uk will fill Exeter’s castle
courtyard and Northernhay
PS Can’t wait to get started ? Gardens for the weekend.
Exeter-born chef Michael
The School of Artisan Food is launching a new Artisan Business Start-Up Certificate, Caines will head up demos
taught by enterprise expert and The Seed Fund mentor Yvonne O’Donovan. Based between and there’ll be story-telling
Sheffield and Nottingham, the course covers core areas of small business knowledge. The and cookery classes for the
certificate requires the completion of five modules, which include finance, operations and kids. Music each evening
will feature more local
writing and pitching a business plan. Need to clue up on a certain area? Modules can be talent, plus street food.
mixed and matched too, to suit your needs. From £595 per module; schoolofartisanfood.org From £8; exeterfoodand
drinkfestival.co.uk

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 11
 These pages are about us doing the hard
work so you don’t have to. We’re sent anything
from 40 to 100 new products a month, and we
really do try them all: tasting, smelling the
aromas, testing gadgets. Only if they’re useful, good-
looking and value for money do they get the delicious. Top that one
Have you ever burnt your worktop? I have – and I’m
seal of approval. KAREN BARNES, EDITOR
living with the expensive mistake. Here’s a way to stop
it happening: a (recycled) shatterproof glass worktop
saver with gripper feet to stop it slipping. There are
several designs available including mackerel and

Seasoned a chicken, but I quite like this portly crab.

30cm worktop saver, £24, sarahboddy.com
with time
In Jenny Linford’s new book
The Missing Ingredient the ADDICTION
ingredient in question is ALERT
time – something we Not sure what to say about
generally spend energy these apart from… Phwoar!
trying to save rather than Little bites of peanut-buttery,
savour. By talking to chefs caramelly, milk chocolatey
and producers and by gorgeousness. They’re
looking at techniques key to addictive but they’re also
a recipe’s success, Jenny super-rich so one is as good
considers how time makes a marked difference to flavour. as a feast – as my Welsh
Fascinating and thought-provoking. £18.99; Particular Books grandma used to say.
Caramel peanut bites,
£3.99, beanandpod.com

HOT ON THE SHELVES

1PEAS PLEASE ME
For freshness in a bowl, these are the
2 FREE FROM WORTHINESS
So much gluten-free pasta 3 A BREATH OF FRESH AIR
I like the look of these neat tins – small
WORKTOP SAVER PHOTOGRAPH: SARAH BODDY

soups to try. They’re created by friends is wholly unpleasant, enough to keep in bag or pocket without
Cullen Allen and Colum O’Sullivan (Cully especially in texture, but being too bulky or heavy. More
and Sully) and the flavours are balanced not this pumpkin & sage importantly, I like the taste of the breath-
and vibrant. Our favourite is pea and raviolini by Ugo Thrive. freshening mints
mint – it has The sage is just subtle – particularly the
the real taste enough not to eclipse the chai flavour.
of buttery sweet earthiness of the Worth a try.
peas. pumpkin. £3 for 250g from Vermints, £2.99
£1.50 for 400g, Sainsbury’s, Waitrose, for 40g, hollandand
Tesco Ocado and Booths barrett.com

12 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 in the know.

Activated asset
Seeds and nuts from Boundless
are ‘activated’. What does that
mean? Apparently it involves
soaking them to kickstart the
germination process (unleashing,
it’s claimed, more of the goodness
within). They’re then roasted with
flavourings such as orange, ginger
& maple or cayenne & rosemary.
The science of the benefits of
activated nuts/seeds is “Your good
complicated but the point is they
taste good. £2.20 for 30g, Ocado
health!”
BY LES DUNN,
MANAGING EDITOR
In the 18th century people drank
small beer (beer low in alcohol)
DELIZIOSO! instead of water because it was
Fresh mozzarella at its best is safer. The phrase endured and is
delightful; at its worst it’s rubbery and used today to denote something
pointless. Get the good stuff from insignificant. Now small beer has
online Italian shop nifeislife.com. Top been reinvented for those seeking
pick is Buffalo Delicacy Mozzarella a lighter drink, rather than for
(£9.75 for 500g) – so pleasingly pillowy those seeking to avoid cholera.
and yielding. Also look out for the Developed by clever people,
Puglian Burrata (£2.60 for 125g) and formerly of gin pioneers Sipsmith,
excellent salamis, Italian flours and and sold in fetching stubbies,
fresh yeast – useful. Use the code DL5 at there are two beers. The regular
checkout and get 10% off until 30 April lager (2.1%, or just 0.7 units per
(minimum order £30). See p129 for Ts&Cs bottle) has a good hop quality
and it’s a refreshing choice if you
want to ease back on the booze.
Serving suggestion You could, of course, live like
There’s no doubting this is a beautiful set – and it comes boxed so it makes a fine a Georgian and drink it instead of
gift, too. Designed for serving sushi, complete with chopsticks and dipping water, but it may be frowned upon
bowls, the elegant porcelain plates work just as well for handing round canapés in meetings… £2.85 for 33cl, Majestic
at a party or as small platters for, say, a tomato and mozzarella salad. Smart. stores; theoriginalsmallbeer.com
Tokyo Design Studio Nippon plate gift set, £40, johnlewis.com

Pukka
pad
You can never
have too many
notebooks.
Really, you can’t.
And my new
‘thou shall covet’
moment is this
smart specimen
with top quality
paper from Poach
My Lobster.
£15, etsy.com
people.

A SLICE OF MY LIFE
CREATIVE FORCE, FROM

SOPHIE
TOP Sophie loves the
art of baking; her
next competition will
involve track cycling
in LA; she’s on a fine

FALDO
dining mission; Prue
Leith inspires her;
novel ingredients
are a challenge

2017’s Great British Bake Of winner

reveals her fondness for patisserie,
competitive cycling – and Prue Leith

THE ART OF BAKING

I think some people find baking therapeutic but for me
it’s all about the creativity. When I was younger I did
a lot of salt-dough modelling and those skills translate
well into sugar-craft. I just love the beauty of baking.

PASSIONATE ABOUT PATISSERIE

I started baking after I left my role as an Army officer in
the Royal Artillery. Initially I decorated cakes and gave
them to family and friends as presents. Then I bought
William Curley’s book Patisserie and that was massive
for me. It took things up several levels.

BACK IN GEAR
I’m a track cyclist but didn’t compete in 2017 because
of Bake Off. This year I’ll be off to LA in October to
compete in the UCI Track Cycling World Championships
– if I get up to fitness, that is! I’ll be eating lots of protein
because there’s a big emphasis on gym work to build
power. The plus side is that if we go on a long training
ride there’s always a cake stop somewhere… You’re
burning up about 1,700 calories, so you’re entitled.

GASTRONOMIC EXCURSIONS

INTERVIEW: KERRY FOWLER. PHOTOS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, SUZANNE JARVIS, REX

My boyfriend David is a chef and in our free time we’re
gradually ticking off the long list of restaurants he
wants to go to – when we have the money. On the last
occasion we went to Social by Heinz Beck in the
Waldorf Astoria, Dubai. It was a cracking meal.

COOKING CHALLENGE
I like being experimental. I can go to the market and
pick up a quince, a pomegranate and a custard apple
and find something to make with them (although
I struggled with the custard apple!).

UNDER CANVAS
I loved being in the Bake Off tent. Sandi and Noel were
fantastic. They put us at our ease and it’s clear there’s
a chemistry between them. I’m a big Prue Leith fan too.
She’s definitely not a pushover and I like that.

14 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 Smoked haddock the
way it used to be
Severn & Wye Smokery won a delicious. Produce Award for its outstanding,
sustainable oak-smoked haddock. Susan Low travels to Gloucestershire to discover how
a traditional British ingredient has reclaimed its place as a breakfast of champions
T
he smoke billowing from the kiln
is heavy with the aromas of oak
forests. It’s a scent that’s almost
as ancient as human civilisation, yet as
comfortingly familiar as a posh cooked
breakfast. His head still wreathed in trails
of smoke, Richard Cook of Severn & Wye
Smokery wheels a tray of haddock fresh
from the kiln. After two-and-a-half hours
of smoking the pearly-white flesh has
turned a beautiful burnished golden colour.
“When they come out they have a lovely
sheen and a firm elasticity. You know
when it feels right,” Richard explains as
he talks me through the process. The fresh
(never frozen) haddock fillets, which are
certified as sustainable by the Marine
Stewardship Council, are first brined,
then the fillets are laid onto metal racks,
put in the kiln and smoked over a mix
of oak chips from trees felled on the
property and chips from whisky barrels.
Salt, fish, smoke and time are the only
ingredients. There are no
artificial dyes used here.
Despite all the stainless
steel, dials and gauges,
the process of smoking
fish is at its core a simple
one and dates back
thousands of years in this
part of the world.
As its name suggests,
Severn & Wye Smokery is
located between the two
famous rivers, not far
from the Forest of Dean.
Both rivers are famed for
16 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
PHOTOGRAPHS DAVID CHARBIT
their wild salmon, says Richard. “When
they compiled the Domesday Book of
1086 they recorded the salmon as an asset
for the Severn. So it was a huge fishery.”
A SHRINKING RESOURCE
The company was founded on local salmon
and another delicacy – eels. “Initially what
put us here was the salmon and the glass
eels,” Richard recalls, referring to the elvers
(young eels) that frequent the river. “But
we realised wild salmon was a shrinking
resource. By the mid-1990s you could see
the salmon fishing community getting
older. The fishing season was being cut,
there were reduced quotas and higher
licence fees. It wasn’t going anywhere.”
Richard is keen on conservation and
knows that the changes to the fishery’s
quotas and licence fees have been made
with the best of intentions but they forced
his hand. “We’ll do all we can to maintain
the fishery but we also need to survive
ourselves; so we turned to
farmed salmon, farmed eel...”
Richard and his team have
also smoked haddock for
decades but a few years back
he realised more could be
done on the sustainability
front. “I felt that the market
for smoked haddock was
becoming a race to the
bottom. It was all about
‘How can we produce this
cheaply, to meet a certain
price point?’ So we switched
our production to sustainable
sources and practices.” Now, all Severn &
Wye Smokery’s haddock is MSC-certified.
THE TRUTH IS IN THE TASTING
Severn & Wye use large fillets from mature,
line-caught haddock from Iceland, Norway
and the Faroe Islands. Once smoked, they
have burnished flesh that falls away in large
flakes when lightly poached, with that
just-so balance of oak smoke and salt.
Severn & Wye’s smoked haddock is
served at the Savoy (fittingly, as the chefs
there invented omelette Arnold Bennett –
see p28) as well as The Berkeley, Bibendum
and Restaurant Martin Wishart in
Edinburgh, among others.
Like roast beef, bangers and scones,
smoked fish is a defining British dish – just
imagine how diminished life would be
without kippers or kedgeree. Richard
agrees, explaining, “We wanted smoked
haddock to return to what it used to be –
a favourite breakfast choice served with
stacks of hot buttered toast.” Richard Cook’s
smoked haddock is made with so much
love and care that it will ensure its place at
the breakfast table – and the lunch, brunch
and dinner table for that matter. →
WHERE TO BUY
The Barn at Severn & Wye (Chaxhill,
Westbury-on-Severn, Gloucestershire
GL14 1QW) sells local produce as well
as the company’s smoked fish. You can
also order on 01452 760191 or at severn
andwye.co.uk (shop coming soon).
 meet the producer.

WHAT OUR FINAL JUDGING PANEL SAID

“The fish has big,

beautiful flakes, with
a flavour that’s not
too salty and not too
smoky – the perfect
balance”

RACKING UP SUCCESS Richard

once used salmon from the TURN THE PAGE TO FIND A RECIPE MADE
River Severn but now it’s his
haddock, smoked using oak USING SEVERN & WYE SMOKERY’S
chips, that wins plaudits WONDERFUL OAK-SMOKED HADDOCK
meet the producer.
WHO ARE YOUR FOOD HEROES?
We’re seeking the brightest
and best food producers from
around the UK. Tell us your
favourite artisanal food
producer or, if you’re a
NEXT producer yourself, enter
MONTH at deliciousmagazine.co.uk.
Ampersand Nominations are now OPEN!
cultured butter
Smoked haddock and
jersey royal stew
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
SIMMERING TIME 28-30 MIN
• 15g unsalted butter
• Good drizzle olive oil
• 4 onions, finely sliced
• 1 large garlic clove, thickly sliced
• 6 pink peppercorns
• ½ tsp coriander seeds, crushed
• ½ tsp ground turmeric
• 80g pancetta
• 300g jersey royals or other waxy
potatoes such as charlotte
• 650ml good quality fish or chicken
stock (preferably homemade)
• 1kg oak-smoked MSC haddock
fillets, skinned and bones
removed (where possible)
• 100g baby leaf spinach
• Crème fraîche to serve (optional)
1 Heat the butter and oil in a large
sauté pan (use one with a lid) or
flameproof casserole, then gently
fry the onions for 20 minutes with
the garlic, peppercorns, coriander
seeds, turmeric and plenty of black
pepper. Cover the pan with a lid and
stir occasionally.
2 Meanwhile, slice the pancetta,
quarter the potatoes and warm the
fish stock. When the onions have
softened and are gaining a little
colour (after 8-10 minutes), add the
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: ROSIE RAMSDEN. PHOTOGRAPH: LIZZIE MAYSON. STYLING: TABITHA HAWKINS
pancetta and potatoes, then the fish
stock. Bring to the boil, stir, then
simmer for 20 minutes or until the
potatoes feel tender when pierced
with a sharp knife. Top with the
smoked fish and spinach, then
cover with the lid and cook for
8-10 minutes more or until the
fish is lightly steamed and the
spinach is wilted.
3 Evenly divide the fish and the
stew among 6 shallow bowls, then
top each with a spoonful of crème
fraîche to serve, if you like.
PER SERVING 322kcals, 12g fat
(3.7g saturated), 42.7g protein,
9.5g carbs (7.4g sugars), 2.7g salt,
2.6g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Spain’s
albariño is the white for this with its
crisp, refreshing but fruity style.
Fisher & Paykel hob CI905DTB3
PURE QUALITY
Top-quality ingredients are the diference between dishes tasting okay and being excellent.
And with a state-of-the-art Fisher & Paykel hob, those dishes will be cooked to perfection
Q uality is so important when you cook – from
the ingredients you choose to the equipment
you use. The same applies to your
appliances: swapping a standard hob for a state-of-
the-art one can take your cooking to the next level.
Fisher & Paykel’s premium hobs come in a variety
of sizes and configurations to suit every kitchen. The
Touch&Slide 90cm 5-zone SmartZone induction
hob gives you a spacious cooking area with five
cooking zones – great for cooking for a crowd. Its
dual zone automatically detects the size of your
cookware and the zones can be bridged to form two
SmartZones. Touch&Slide allows for easy, precision
control of each zone. If you’re looking for something
smaller, the Touch&Slide 60cm 4-zone SmartZone
also allows you to bridge cooking zones.
Prefer gas? The 90cm gas on steel cooktop with
five burners will sit flush with your kitchen bench,
while glowing dials show which burners are lit.
And if a flame goes out, the gas turns off for safety.
Once you’ve picked the perfect hob, try these
great seafood dishes (right) to experience the
versatility of your new Fisher & Paykel appliance –
you won’t be disappointed.
SHELLFISH MADE SIMPLE
Prawns in tomato
and garlic sauce
Gently warm a glug of extra-
virgin olive oil in a frying pan
with chopped garlic, chopped red
chilli and a large handful of
halved cherry tomatoes. Add sea
salt and a pinch of sugar, then
gently simmer for 5 minutes. Toss
through fresh peeled king prawns
or langoustines, then cook gently
for 3-4 minutes or until cooked.
Scatter over freshly chopped
flatleaf parsley and fresh
oregano leaves and add a good
squeeze of lemon, then serve
with crusty bread.
Discover the full Fisher & Paykel hob range at fisherpaykel.com/uk
The new prawn cocktail
As a change from the classic
dish, serve whole griddled
langoustines with a Korean-style
marie rose dip. Here’s how:
Mix 2 crushed garlic cloves,
3 tbsp sriracha sauce or
gochujang, 1 tbsp ketchup,
1 tbsp maple syrup, 1 tbsp lime
juice, 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp
toasted sesame oil and 4 tbsp
mayo. Brush the langoustines
with vegetable oil and cook in a
medium-hot griddle pan for
3 minutes on each side. Serve
with the Korean-style dip.
food for thought.
WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT...
She’s not one to sufer from Seasonal Afective Disorder, but this
month, columnist Kay Plunkett-Hogge can feel her sap rising
SPRING FEVER
‘O, to be in England/Now that April’s
there…’ wrote Robert Browning. Given
that he was in northern Italy at the time,
where spring is spectacularly beautiful,
I suspect he must have forgotten how cold
and wet it can be – ‘ne’er cast a clout till
May be out’ and all that.
I adore spring, and April is possibly my
very favourite month. Buds pop up their
heads, ready to burst with promise. The
sun glimmers between the showers.
Everyone seems a little lighter and brighter.
All I can think about is scoffing as many
native oysters as I can before their season
ends, and (as those first young vegetables
appear in the shops) eating dishes like
navarin of lamb and spring veg – oh, and
lots of purple sprouting broccoli (see p48).
Sometimes I think purple sprouting
broccoli exists to warm us up for asparagus
THIS MONTH I SHALL BE…
È È
DRINKING…
CORTE VETUSTO MEZCAL. Mezcal is the
grandfather of tequila. Tequila is only
made with blue agave, whereas mezcal
uses any agave, which makes for more
variety. It’s smoky, earthy and mellow,
and great with lime juice, agave syrup,
a little muddled chilli and soda.
20 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
season. It’s like the vegetable version of
pre-season training. But where asparagus
cries out for hollandaise, PSB’s glorious
florets can catch and hold a finer emulsion.
Think warm olive oil infused with chilli
and loads of garlic, into which you melt
anchovies, then finish with a scattering of
lemon zest. Dip in the steamed broccoli
head-first and devour it as the salty-
READING…
HOW TO EAT A PEACH, the latest book
from Diana Henry (see p64 and p78). It’s
packed with her beautiful writing, lush
recipes and wonderful storytelling. It’s
inspirational. In fact, it was her Crazy
Water, Pickled Lemons from 2002
that made me want to write about food.
garlicky-spicy oil dribbles down your chin.
As for oysters, I’m old-fashioned enough
to stick to the diktat of not eating them
when there’s no R in the month, native or
not, at least in the UK. Somehow it doesn’t
bother me in France or Thailand. Or
anywhere else for that matter. But here it
does. I predict an end-of-April dash to West
Mersea for two dozen of Richard Haward’s
finest native oysters before the season ends.
I won’t be eating them again until today’s
blossom has turned to fruit. Now, that’s
something else to look forward to…
WELLNESS EXPERTS
Encountering a wellness expert would not,
I suspect, be something to look forward
to. What exactly is a wellness expert?
Answers on a postcard please, to delicious.
HQ… I know when I’m well. I know when
I am not. Ergo, I am a wellness expert.
VISITING…
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
CHINA AND SIAM: THROUGH THE LENS
OF JOHN THOMSON at London’s Brunei
Gallery (johnthomsonexhibition.org),
opening on 13 April. He was the first
photographer to visit Angkor Wat (in the
1860s) and he created an extensive
photographic record. Must-see stuff.
 favourites.

ALWAYS A WINNER

Risotto
It has an undeserved reputation as a tricky
dish but risotto is easily put together
from storecupboard items: rice, stock,
butter and parmesan. Here, we push the boat out
with a creamy goat’s cheese number, an all-in-one
crowdpleaser made with chicken and bacon and
our cover star, a vibrant celebration of spring
RECIPES JEN BEDLOE PHOTOGRAPHS STUART WEST
FOOD STYLING ROSIE RAMSDEN STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

Goat’s cheese
and sun-dried
tomato risotto,
p22

The taste of spring
in risotto form
COVER STAR
Asparagus, pea &
mint risotto
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN
If you’re vegetarian, swap
FOOD
TEAM’S the anchovies for capers or
TIPS
chopped olives, and use
a vegetarian hard cheese.
When fresh peas are in season,
use them instead of frozen.
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• Bunch spring onions, white parts
and green parts separated and
finely chopped (we used some red
spring onions for colour)
• 1 large celery stick, finely chopped
• 300g bunch asparagus, stalks
finely sliced and tips reserved
• 1-1.25 litres fresh chicken or
vegetable stock (see tips)
• 350g risotto rice
• 200ml dry white wine
• Bunch fresh mint, finely chopped
• 3 anchovy fillets in oil, finely
chopped (see tips)
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• Grated zest and juice 1 lemon
• 200g frozen peas (see tips)
• 50g butter
• 75g pecorino, grated
NEXT
MONTH FOR THE PEA PURÉE
Three magical • 200g frozen peas (see tips)
ways with pesto • 100g spinach
22 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
• Juice 1 lemon
• Large handful fresh parsley leaves
1 For the pea purée, put the frozen
peas in a heatproof bowl and defrost
by covering with boiling water for 30
seconds (see tips). Drain and transfer
to a blender or food processor and
whizz with the spinach, rapeseed
oil, lemon and parsley until smooth.
Season with salt and pepper.
2 Heat the 2 tbsp olive oil in a large,
heavy-based pan and gently cook
the chopped white part of the spring
onions, celery and asparagus stalks
until softened (about 10 minutes).
Meanwhile, put the stock in a pan
and gently heat until hot but not
boiling. Keep warm on a low heat.
3 Stir the rice into the vegetables
to coat the grains in the oil, then
cook for 1-2 minutes more. Pour
in the wine, bring up to a fast
simmer and cook until most of the
wine has evaporated. Start adding
a litre of stock a ladleful at a time,
stirring often, only adding more
once the liquid has been absorbed
by the rice. (This should take
around 20 minutes.)
4 Meanwhile, make a salsa: chop
the reserved green part of the
spring onions and mix in a bowl with
the mint, anchovies, extra-virgin
olive oil, lemon zest and juice.
Add salt and pepper to taste.
5 If the rice is still hard after it has
absorbed a litre of stock, stir in a
little more. As the rice is starting
to become plump and tender, about
5 minutes before the end of the
cooking time, stir in the asparagus
tips, peas and pea purée, then cook
until the rice is tender.
6 Stir in the butter and pecorino,
taste, season and serve with the
mint salsa for drizzling over.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 513kcals,
20.1g fat (8.1g saturated), 15.5g
protein, 58.1g carbs (5.8g sugars),
1.1g salt, 6.7g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Match the
green flavours with a herby white
such as Italy’s pecorino or verdicchio.
For more ways to use pecorino,
see Loose Ends
Goat’s cheese & sun-dried
tomato risotto
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN
• 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to brush
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 1 large celery stick, finely chopped
• 1.2 litres fresh vegetable stock
• 350g risotto rice
• 200ml dry white wine
• 25g parmesan or vegetarian
alternative, grated
• 100g goat’s curd (we like
Ribblesdale) or soft goat’s cheese
• 100g sun-dried tomatoes (from a
jar), roughly chopped
• Large handful rocket
• 200g rinded goat’s cheese log, cut
into 4 even discs (we used 2 x 100g
Capricorn goat’s cheeses)
• A few fresh basil leaves
1 Heat the oil in a large, deep heavy-
based frying pan or sauté pan and
gently fry the onion and celery with
a pinch of salt for about 10 minutes
until softened. Meanwhile, heat the
stock in a pan until simmering, then
keep warm on a low heat.
2 Stir the rice into the onion and
celery and cook for 1-2 minutes.
Pour in the wine, bring up to a fast
simmer and bubble until the wine has
mostly evaporated. Start adding the
stock, a ladleful at a time, stirring
often, only adding more stock once
the liquid has been absorbed. Keep
adding stock until the rice is tender
(you may not need it all; this should
take around 20 minutes). Heat the
grill to medium.
3 Stir the grated cheese, goat’s curd
(or soft goat’s cheese), sun-dried
tomatoes and rocket into the risotto.
Taste and add salt and black pepper.
4 Brush the goat’s cheese discs with
olive oil, put on a baking sheet and
grill for 5 minutes until golden. Serve
the risotto topped with the grilled
cheese, scattered with the basil.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 501kcals,
18.6g fat (8.5g saturated), 16.6g
protein, 59.2g carbs (8.9g sugars),
2.3g salt, 2.8g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE French
sauvignon blanc or Italian soave
are mouthwatering partners here.

Oven-baked chicken,
bacon & barley risotto
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN
TIME 25 MIN
If you don’t have any sherry
FOOD
TEAM’S open, use dry white wine or
TIP
even 100ml vodka instead.
• 2-3 tbsp olive oil
• 4 free-range skinless chicken
thigh fillets, cut into chunks
• 200g smoked bacon lardons
• 2 banana shallots, sliced
• 1 large celery stick, finely chopped
• 1 large carrot, finely chopped
• 4 fresh rosemary sprigs, leaves
picked and chopped
• 175g risotto rice
• 175g pearl barley
• 200ml fino sherry (see tip)
• 750ml chicken or vegetable stock
• 50g butter
• 50g parmesan, grated, plus extra
shavings to serve
• Handful parsley leaves to serve
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Heat a splash of the oil in a
large casserole (use one with a lid)
and fry the chicken and bacon until
browned. Set aside. Heat a splash
more oil in the pan if needed and
gently fry the shallots, celery and
carrot with a pinch of salt for about
10 minutes until softened.
2 Stir in the rosemary and cook for
a minute, then stir in the rice and
barley and cook for 1-2 minutes.
Add the sherry and bring up to a fast
simmer, then cook until almost all
the sherry has evaporated.
favourites.
3 Stir the browned chicken and bacon
into the rice and pour in 700ml of the
stock. Stir to combine, then bring up
to the boil, cover with the lid,
transfer to the oven and bake for 25
minutes or until everything is tender
and all the liquid has been absorbed.
4 When the rice is tender, stir in the
butter, parmesan and remaining
50ml stock. Taste and add salt and
black pepper to taste. Serve
scattered with the parmesan
shavings and the parsley leaves.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 531kcals,
22g fat (9.3g saturated), 23.4g
protein, 49.7g carbs (2.6g sugars),
1.8g salt, 1.9g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A ripe,
fruity white such as fiano from
Sicily is spot on, as is an Australian
chardonnay-semillon blend.
 ROAST OF THE MONTH
THE ULTIMATE
ROAST CHICKEN
Simon Hopkinson’s Roast Chicken and Other Stories*
is one of my favourite cookbooks and his roast chicken
recipe is legendary. He uses lots of butter, lemon, garlic and
herbs, creating a wonderful lemony jus. I’ve used those
flavours here but combined them in a stuffing to serve
alongside. The dish works a treat with my updated, dukkah-
topped cauliflower cheese. DAN DOHERTY, CHEF DIRECTOR, DUCK & WAFFLE
Roast chicken with buttery food processor whizz the bread slices to
stuing balls chunky crumbs, then add 150ml of the
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME reserved juices, the shallots and the garlic
1 HOUR 40-45 MIN from the chicken cavity (squeezed from the
skins). Whizz with the sausagemeat, parsley,
• 1.8-2kg British free-range chicken egg and seasoning until just combined. Roll
• 120g unsalted butter, softened and shape into 12 x 4cm balls.
• 1 lemon 4 Put the stuffing balls in the roasting tin
• Several fresh thyme sprigs and bake for 30 minutes. Serve with the
• 3 garlic cloves, left whole and unpeeled chicken and cauliflower cheese, if making.
• 3 shallots, peeled and halved PER SERVING 480kcals, 26g fat (13.2g
• 4 x 1cm thick slices bread saturated), 49.1g protein, 12.1g carbs
• 100g British free-range sausagemeat (1.2g sugars), 0.9g salt, 1g fibre
• Large pinch chopped fresh parsley WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A white Burgundy,
• 1 medium free-range egg ideally a ripe southern mâcon.
1 Heat the oven to 230°C/210°C fan/gas 8. Spiced cauliflower cheese
Put the chicken in a roasting tin and rub SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN. OVEN TIME
the butter all over it. Season well with salt 20-25 MIN, PLUS INFUSING
and pepper and squeeze over the juice
of the lemon. Put the thyme and garlic • 1 tsp ground cumin
inside the chicken cavity along with the • 1 tsp ground coriander
squeezed-out lemon halves, then tuck the • 1 litre whole milk
shallots under the chicken. • ½ onion
2 Roast for 10-15 minutes, baste with the • 1 clove
juices, then turn the oven down to 190°C/ • 1 cinnamon stick
170°C fan/gas 5 and roast for 60 minutes • 1 bay leaf
more, basting occasionally, until the chicken • 2 small cauliflowers
juices run clear when pierced in the • Drizzle sunflower oil
thickest part of the thigh with a skewer (or • 50g butter
a digital probe thermometer reads 75°C). • 50g plain flour
Transfer the roasted chicken to a plate or • 100g Lancashire cheese
board, loosely cover with foil and leave to • 75ml double cream
rest while you make the stuffing. • Whole nutmeg for grating
3 Pour the buttery juices from the tin into • Pinch chilli flakes (optional)
a jug and set aside with the shallots. In a • 25g cheddar cheese, grated
24 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
FOR THE DUKKAH
• 100g shelled hazelnuts
• 2 tbsp each cumin, coriander and
fennel seeds
• 4 tbsp sesame seeds
1 Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5.
Toast the cumin and coriander in a small dry
pan for 2 minutes, then set aside. Put the
milk, onion, clove, cinnamon, a pinch of salt
and the bay in a pan and bring to a simmer.
Turn the heat to low; infuse for 20 minutes.
2 For the dukkah, toast the hazelnuts for
2-3 minutes in a dry non-stick frying pan
over a medium heat until just starting to
turn golden, then add all the seeds and
toast for 2 minutes until fragrant. Tip into
a mini food processor or pestle and mortar
and whizz/grind to a coarse mixture.
3 Break the cauliflowers into florets and
put in a large baking dish. Toss with a little
sunflower oil and a pinch of salt, then roast
(with the chicken, if you’re serving them
together) for about 25 minutes until golden.
4 Strain the infused milk into a jug (discard
the solids). Melt the butter in a pan on a low
heat, then stir in the flour and keep stirring
STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON. PORTRAIT: ANDERS SCHØNNEMANN. *EBURY PRESS, 1999
RECIPE: DAN DOHERTY. PHOTOGRAPH: KATE WHITAKER. FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL.
for 2-3 minutes until it smells biscuity. Add
the toasted cumin and coriander, gradually
whisk in the infused milk until smooth,
then simmer for 10 minutes. Heat the grill
(if you have one).
5 Stir in the Lancashire cheese until melted,
then add the cream. Grate in some nutmeg
and add the chilli flakes (if using).
6 Pour the cheese sauce over the roasted
cauliflower and sprinkle the grated cheddar
on top. Grill the cauliflower cheese for
about 10 minutes until golden brown on top
(if you don’t have a grill, bake in the oven
for 20-25 minutes with the stuffing for the
chicken). Sprinkle with the dukkah to serve.
PER SERVING (FOR 8) 459kcals, 35.8g fat
(14.3g saturated), 16.5g protein, 15.5g
carbs (9.1g sugars), 0.5g salt, 4.5g fibre
 weekend highlight.

MEET DAN He’s well known as

the chef director of London’s
Duck & Waffle restaurants and
has authored two cookbooks.
This spring Dan will be a judge
on the new BBC One programme
Britain’s Best Cook, alongside
Mary Berry and TV greengrocer
Chris Bavin, with Claudia
Winkleman as host.
 SECRET
HISTORIES
Some famous people are immortalised by a statue or blue plaque on a
building. But, in our book at least, the real winners ensure their fame
echoes down the ages by having a dish named after them. Rebecca
Woollard discovers the stories behind some of our best-loved
dishes and gives these classics a new twist while she’s at it
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING REBECCA WOOLLARD
PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS STYLING DAVINA PERKINS

OMELETTE ARNOLD BENNETT

This smoked haddock omelette was created by chefs at
London’s Savoy hotel in the 1920s for the author and critic
Arnold Bennett, who stayed at the hotel while he was writing
Imperial Palace. Bennett, it seems, had strong ideas about what
comprised the ideal omelette, so the Savoy chefs created a A NOVEL APPROACH
recipe for him using his favourite ingredients, cooked just the TO BREAKFAST
way he liked it. In this version, based on one from Leiths Omelette Arnold Bennett
cookery school, whipping the egg whites creates a cross with horseradish
between a soufflé base and an omelette, making it lighter and chives, p28
but still indulgent. The punchy horseradish twist cuts
through the richness with a welcome hit of heat.
 classics.

CARPACCIO
A dish of seared, finely sliced beef fillet, carpaccio was
invented in 1950 by Giuseppe Cipriani at Harry’s Bar in
Venice, inspired by a raw veal dish from Piedmont (carne
cruda all’albese). It’s named after the Venetian painter
Vittore Carpaccio, who was famous for the deep red and
white hues of his work (red for the beef, white for the
parmesan or white truffle the dish is traditionally topped
with). This vegetarian version keeps the colour scheme but
looks to the Middle East for its flavours, bringing the
carpaccio bang up to date and making it a less extragavant
but still impressive starter.

PRETTY AS A PICTURE
Shallot and dill marinated
beetroot carpaccio with
crispy halloumi, p33

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 27
 THE TWIST RECIPE
Omelette Arnold Bennett
with horseradish & chives
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN
Follow the recipe up to the
MAKE end of step 2, then chill the
AHEAD
mixture and reserved egg
whites for up to 12 hours. Bring back
to room temperature before
continuing with the recipe.
The omelette will be runny
FOOD
TEAM’S in the middle (baveuse). If
TIP
you prefer, cook for a little
longer to firm it up more.
• 200ml whole milk
• 2 bay leaves
• 180g sustainable smoked
haddock, cut into 3 pieces
• 30g butter, plus an extra knob
for frying
• 30g plain flour
• 2 tbsp horseradish sauce (we
used Colman’s)
• 3 medium free-range eggs,
separated
• 2 tbsp single cream
• 25g parmesan, plus a little extra
for the top, finely grated
• 10g each fresh chives and dill,
finely chopped
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 20cm (measured across the base)
non-stick frying pan
1 Heat the milk and bay leaves in a
medium saucepan over a medium-
high heat. Once steaming, add the
haddock pieces, cover with a lid
and turn the heat down to very low.
Poach the fish for 8 minutes, turning
the haddock halfway, until cooked
through. Remove the fish to a plate,
reserving 150ml of the milk (discard
the remaining milk).
2 Wipe out the saucepan with
kitchen paper and add the 30g
butter. Melt over a medium heat,
then stir in the flour using a wooden
spoon. Increase the heat slightly
and let the mixture bubble gently,
stirring constantly, until the colour
darkens to a light brown and the
mixture smells biscuity. Pour in the
reserved milk in a thin, steady
28 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
stream, stirring all the time, until the
mixture thickens and it pulls away
from the sides of the pan as you stir.
If the mixture isn’t quite thick
enough once all the milk has been
added, cook it for a little longer until
it has the right consistency. Leave to
cool for a few minutes, then stir in
the horseradish sauce, egg yolks,
single cream and 25g parmesan.
Flake the haddock (remove and
discard any skin and bones), then stir
in gently with some salt (if needed)
and plenty of black pepper. Mix in
the chopped herbs and set aside.
3 Heat the grill to high. Using an
electric hand mixer or a balloon
whisk, whisk the egg whites in a
mixing bowl until they form medium
peaks (the tops of the peaks created
when the beaters are lifted out will
flop over). Stir a spoonful of whisked
egg white into the haddock mixture
to loosen it, then use a large metal
spoon to fold in the remaining egg
whites in two additions, keeping as
much of the air in as possible.
4 Melt the remaining knob of butter
in the frying pan over a medium-
high heat, swirling the pan to coat
it evenly in butter. When it starts
to sizzle, carefully tip the omelette
mixture into the pan, tilting the pan
so it covers the whole surface. Put
the pan on the heat and cook for
3-4 minutes, shaking it every so
often to keep the omelette loose.
Once the edges have set, lift them
up with the flat of a knife or a
spatula to check the colour. When
they’re light golden and the middle
is beginning to swell and puff like
a soufflé, scatter over a little more
parmesan, transfer the pan to the
grill and cook for 5-6 minutes until
just golden, lightly crisp and puffed.
Remove the pan from the grill (use
a tea towel around the handle), slide
the omelette onto a plate, cut in half
and serve immediately.
PER SERVING 570kcals, 36.8g fat
(19.6g saturated), 39.9g protein,
19.2g carbs (7.3g sugars), 2.3g salt,
1.3g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A dry,
lemony, lightly oaked white bordeaux
suits the creamy smokiness here.
THE TWIST RECIPE
Nachos with pulled pork
and sweetcorn salsa
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN,
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 40-45 MIN
The pulled pork can be
MAKE made 2-3 days ahead.
AHEAD
Cool completely, then keep
covered in the fridge. It will taste
all the better for being made a day
or two ahead. Or freeze for up to
3 months, defrost fully in the fridge,
then reheat until piping hot.
Make the sweetcorn salsa a
couple of hours ahead and keep
covered in the fridge.
FOR THE PULLED PORK
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 2 large banana shallots, finely
sliced
• 600g British free-range pork
shoulder, cut into 2cm cubes
• 3 fat garlic cloves, crushed
• 1½ tbsp ground cumin
• 1 tbsp ground coriander
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp mild chilli powder
• ½ tsp ground allspice
• 2 tsp each dried thyme and
dried oregano
• 3 tbsp tomato purée
• 3 tbsp red wine vinegar
• 500ml chicken stock
• 2 tsp caster sugar
• 100ml whole milk
FOR THE SWEETCORN SALSA
• ½ red onion, finely diced
• 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
• 1 tsp caster sugar
• 198g tin sweetcorn, drained
and rinsed
• ½-1 jalapeño chilli or red chilli,
deseeded and finely chopped
• 1 ripe avocado, peeled and cut into
small dice
• 1 small bunch fresh coriander,
finely chopped
• Juice ½ lime
TO SERVE
• 200g bag tortilla chips
• Extra-mature cheddar, grated
• Soured cream and pickled
jalapeños (optional) →
 classics.

NACHOS
In 1943, a group of American military wives stationed in Fort Duncan, Texas,
arrived at a restaurant in nearby Piedras Negras, Mexico, after service had closed.
The maître d’ rustled up some canapés with what little he had – fried tortilla
triangles, melted cheese and jalapeños. The maître d’ was called Ignacio ‘Nacho’
Anaya and he named his dish Nacho’s especial. Nachos have come a long way since
their invention, and they’re the perfect sharing dish for hungry guests. This
version uses a cheat’s pulled pork recipe – no 12-hour cooking period required –
and a zingy storecupboard salsa to reflect the original spirit of the dish.

STORECUPBOARD
SAVIOUR
Nachos with
pulled pork and
sweetcorn salsa
 HEAVEN SCENT
Chocolate and
ginger studded
frangipane galette

FRANGIPANE
The best known story behind the word ‘frangipane’ is that it comes
from a 16th century Italian nobleman Marquis Muzio Frangipani who
was living in Paris. He’s credited with inventing an almond-scented
perfume for leather gloves (leather wasn’t too fragrant in those days),
which became all the rage with the French nobility and Louis XIII. The
pastry chefs of Paris cashed in on the fad and created an almond paste
used to fill pastries and tarts. The frangipani tree is also supposedly
named after the Marquis because of the beautiful scent of its flowers.

30 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

1 To make the pulled pork, heat the
oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Heat
the oil in a large flameproof
casserole (one with a lid) on a
medium heat, then fry the shallots
for 5-6 minutes, stirring often, until
slightly softened but not coloured.
Turn up the heat, season the pork
with salt, then add to the pan and fry
for 4-5 minutes, stirring, until the
meat has coloured slightly on the
outside. Reduce the heat to medium,
add the garlic and cook, stirring, for
1-2 minutes, then add all the spices
and dried herbs. Stir to coat the
meat and fry for 2 minutes until the
spices are fragrant. (If they start to
catch on the bottom of the pan add
a splash of water and keep stirring.)
2 Stir in the tomato purée and
red wine vinegar and cook for 2-3
minutes. Pour in the chicken stock
and add the sugar and milk, bring
everything to a simmer, then put the
lid on and transfer to the oven. Cook
for 1½ hours, stirring halfway
through, until the pork falls apart
easily when pressed with a spoon.
3 When the meat is tender, remove
it to a bowl using a slotted spoon
and put the pan with the remaining
sauce on the hob. Bring back to
a simmer for 10 minutes or until
reduced by half. Meanwhile, shred
the pork with 2 forks, then add it
back to the sauce, stir and set aside
until ready to assemble the nachos
(see Make Ahead).
4 To make the salsa, put the red
onion, vinegar and sugar in a glass
or ceramic bowl with a generous
scattering of salt and stir to
combine. Leave for 10 minutes so
the onions lightly pickle, then stir in
the remaining ingredients, taste and
season again. Chill until ready to
serve (see Make Ahead).
5 To assemble the nachos, heat the
oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
Scatter the tortilla chips in a baking
dish or tray, then spoon over the
warm pork. Sprinkle with as much
grated cheese as you see fit, then
heat in the oven for 10-15 minutes
until the cheese has melted. Spoon
the salsa over the top, then serve
with any extra salsa, and the soured
cream and jalapeños if you like.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 501kcals,
26.6g fat (6.3g saturated), 29.9g
protein, 32.2g carbs (7.4g sugars),
1g salt, 6.3g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Argentina’s
aromatic torrontés is top white – or
try a juicy Chilean pinot noir.
THE TWIST RECIPE
Chocolate and ginger
studded frangipane galette
SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 50-60 MIN
Assemble the tart up to
MAKE
AHEAD 24 hours ahead, scattering
with the almonds and sugar
just before baking. Chill until ready
to bake. Or freeze, then cook straight
from the freezer, adding 10-15
minutes to the cooking time and
scattering with almonds and sugar
halfway through. Cover with foil if
the top browns too quickly. Leftovers
will keep for 2-3 days in an airtight
container at room temperature.
We used Lindt Excellence
FOOD
TEAM’S Touch of Sea Salt chocolate
TIPS
but you could use any
good quality dark chocolate and
add ½ tsp sea salt flakes.
Ocado sells a French all-butter
puff pastry, Marie La Pâte Feuilletée,
which won’t need rolling as it’s
already the right size for this recipe.
• 180g unsalted butter, softened
• 200g caster sugar, plus 1 tbsp
extra to scatter
• 40g plain flour
• 200g ground almonds
• 2 tbsp bourbon, rum or brandy
• 30g crystallised ginger, finely
chopped
• 100g dark chocolate with sea salt
(see tips), roughly chopped
• 250g all-butter puff pastry, rolled
out to a rough 32cm circle (see tips)
• 1 medium free-range egg,
lightly beaten
• 2 tbsp flaked almonds
• Crème fraîche to serve
classics.
1 Heat the oven to
200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6 and put a baking
sheet inside. Put the
butter and sugar in a
large mixing bowl and,
using an electric hand mixer
or the paddle attachment on a
stand mixer, beat for 2-3 minutes
until light and well combined. Beat
in the flour and ground almonds
until well combined, then stir in the
bourbon (or other spirit), ginger and
chocolate (add the salt if you’re
using regular dark chocolate) until
everything is evenly distributed.
2 Lay out 3 sheets of foil on
a work surface, overlapping them
to make a sheet large enough to
accommodate the pastry. Put the
pastry circle in the middle and
spoon the frangipane on top in
a 25cm diameter circle, leaving a
7cm pastry border all around. Fold
in the pastry border over the edge
of the frangipane, pleating it every
10cm or so and leaving the middle
of the galette exposed. Brush the
exposed pastry all over with the
beaten egg, then sprinkle the
remaining 1 tbsp sugar over the
pastry and scatter the flaked
almonds over the whole galette.
3 Using the foil, slide the galette
onto the hot baking sheet.
Bake on the middle rack of the
oven for 20 minutes, then turn
down the oven temperature to
160°C/140°C fan/gas 3 and cook
for another 30-40 minutes until
the pastry is deep golden and
completely crisp. Remove
from the oven, leave to cool
completely (the texture
improves as it cools),
then slice and serve
with crème fraîche.
PER SERVING (FOR 8)
683kcals, 46.2g fat
(19g saturated), 11.3g
protein, 52.9g carbs
(38.2g sugars), 0.4g
salt, 1.3g fibre →

HIT THE HIGH NOTES
Peach cake with
raspberry sauce
and ice cream
PEACH MELBA
Australian opera singer Dame Nellie Melba (she pops up
in Downton Abbey) enjoyed a friendship with legendary chef
Escoffier and during the late 1800s he created a number of
dishes in her name. Two are still well known today – melba
toast and the famous peach melba.
Escoffier was protective of the simplicity of his poached
peaches with raspberry sauce and vanilla ice cream,
declaring that “any variation on this recipe ruins the
delicate balance of its taste”. We hope he’ll forgive us for
putting the peaches into a cake in our twist on peach melba
– we think it works beautifully. Tinned peaches get round
the seasonality issue and give a nod to the retro nature of
this pudding – everyone surely remembers some version
of it from childhood. Eat the cake warm as a pudding with
the raspberry sauce and ice cream, or enjoy it on its own
at room temperature for afternoon tea.
32 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
THE TWIST RECIPE
Peach cake with raspberry
sauce and ice cream
SERVES 10. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 80 MIN, PLUS COOLING
The cake is best on the day
MAKE it’s made. The raspberry
AHEAD
sauce will keep in the fridge
in a sealed container for up to 5 days.
FOR THE CAKE
• 2 x 400g tins peach segments
in syrup
• 225g unsalted butter, plus extra
for greasing, well softened
• 200g caster sugar
• 3 medium free-range eggs, beaten
• Grated zest 1 lemon
• 250g plain flour
• 1½ tsp baking powder
• 3 tbsp single cream
• 3 tbsp peach or apricot jam,
warmed and sieved, to glaze
• Vanilla ice cream to serve
FOR THE RASPBERRY SAUCE
• 400g frozen raspberries
• 3-4 tbsp icing sugar (or to taste)
• 3 tbsp raspberry liqueur (optional;
you can also just use water)
• Squeeze lemon juice
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 20cm loose-bottomed cake tin,
greased, the base lined with
non-stick baking paper
1 For the cake, heat the oven to
180°C/160°C fan/gas 4. Drain the
peach segments, then blot dry with
plenty of kitchen paper. Arrange the
best looking segments (about half)
in the base of the cake tin in a single
layer – they should be packed close
but not touching. Roughly chop the
remaining segments into thirds.
2 In a large bowl, using an electric
hand mixer, cream the butter and
sugar until light and fluffy. Add the
eggs in 3 batches, beating well after
each addition, then add the lemon
zest. In a separate mixing bowl, mix
the flour and baking powder with
a pinch of salt then, using a large
metal spoon (and in three goes) fold
into the cake batter. Fold in the
cream, then the chopped peaches.
3 Carefully spoon the cake mixture
over the peaches in the prepared tin,
making sure you don’t spoil the
pattern on the bottom. Smooth the
top of the mixture, then bake for
40 minutes. Turn the oven down to
160°C/140°C fan/gas 3 and bake for
another 40 minutes until the top is
golden and a skewer pushed into the
centre comes out clean. Leave to
cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then
invert the cake onto a wire rack (so
the peaches are now at the top). The
top of the cake will look pale but
don’t worry – it will be glazed later.
Leave to cool completely.
4 While the cake is cooling, make the
raspberry sauce. Put the raspberries,
icing sugar, liqueur/water and lemon
juice in a saucepan, add a splash of
water, then heat gently until just
simmering. Stir the mixture to break
up the raspberries, then simmer for
5 minutes or until all the fruit has
broken down. Taste for balance –
you may want to add a little extra
sugar, lemon juice or liqueur. When
you’re happy, push the mixture
through a sieve, pressing it through
firmly with a wooden spoon so only
the seeds and as little fruit as
possible are left in the sieve (discard
them). Set the sauce aside until
ready to serve (see Make Ahead).
5 Once the cake has cooled, heat the
grill to medium-high. Brush the jam
all over the top of the cake so it’s
thickly glazed. Put it on a baking
tray and grill until the jam bubbles
and begins to caramelise. Depending
on which jam you’re using, you may
need to add a sprinkle of caster
sugar and grill for a little longer
to get a really golden caramelised
finish. Once you’re happy with the
colour, remove the cake from the
grill and either serve immediately
with vanilla ice cream and the
raspberry sauce or keep in an
airtight container at room
temperature until ready to cut (see
Make Ahead) later the same day.
PER SERVING 478kcals, 21.9g fat
(13.1g saturated), 6.1g protein,
61g carbs (41.6g sugars), 0.3g salt,
3.3g fibre

THE TWIST RECIPE
Shallot & dill marinated
beetroot carpaccio with
crispy halloumi
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN
Marinate the beetroot up to
MAKE 24 hours ahead and keep
AHEAD
covered in the fridge.
• 2 large beetroot
• Juice 1 lemon
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus a
little extra to drizzle
• ½ small bunch dill, finely chopped
• 2 banana shallots, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp each coriander and cumin
seeds, toasted in a dry pan, roughly
crushed in a pestle and mortar
• 1 tsp caster sugar
• 1 tsp sea salt flakes
NEXT
MONTH
The intriguing
history of the
wedding cake
• 250g halloumi cheese
• Olive oil for frying
• 60g rocket
• ½ tbsp pomegranate molasses
• Handful pistachios, lightly toasted
in a dry pan, roughly chopped
1 Trim the beetroot, then peel and
slice finely (it’s easiest with a
mandoline or food processor). Put
the slices in a glass or ceramic dish.
Add the lemon juice, 3 tbsp oil, dill,
shallots, spices, sugar and salt,
then toss. Cover and marinate at
room temperature for at least
30 minutes (see Make Ahead).
2 Shave the halloumi using a
mandoline or Y-shape peeler. Line
a large plate with kitchen paper. Heat
0.5cm olive oil in a large pan and
add a halloumi slice. When it starts
to sizzle, add more slices to fill the
pan and cook for 2-3 minutes until
light golden, turning once using
tongs or a fork (be careful, the oil
will spit). Once browned, dry the
crisps on the kitchen paper and
repeat until the cheese is used up.
3 To assemble, toss the rocket with
the pomegranate molasses and
a drizzle of olive oil. Divide the
beetroot among 4 plates, then dress
with some of the marinade. Top with
the rocket, some halloumi crisps
and pistachios, then serve.
PER SERVING 429kcals, 34.6g fat
(13.1g saturated), 15.6g protein,
12.2g carbs (5.7g sugars), 2.9g salt,
3.3g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Dry chenin
blanc or pinot blanc work best of all.
classics.
FAKE NEWS!
We debunk some of the most notorious
cases of disinformation in the food world
THE MYTH Champagne coupes are modelled
on Marie Antoinette’s breasts
THE FACTS Almost everything you hear about
Marie Antoinette is false (including her most
famous quote “Let them eat cake”). She gets a
terrible press thanks to revolutionary (and anti-
Austrian) propaganda. She was actually a devoted
mother and wife, and probably no more excessive
than any other French noblewoman of the time.
While the original champagne coupe may have
been modelled on someone’s breast, there’s no
evidence it was hers. It was common at the time
to appear in the French court with bosoms barely
covered, so any budding glass designers would
have had a wealth of inspiration to choose from.
THE MYTH The Venetian explorer Marco Polo
brought pasta to Italy from China
THE FACTS Mentions of pasta in Italy exist before
Marco Polo made it home from the Orient in 1295.
A document from before his trip, listing the
possessions of a Genovese soldier, mentions
macaroni. Yes, it’s a coincidence that Asian noodles
resemble pasta, but when you think that almost
every country in the world managed to invent
some form of bread, it doesn’t seem so strange.
THE MYTH Margaret Thatcher invented Mr Whippy
THE FACTS Although the former prime minister did
have a degree in chemistry from Oxford and worked
briefly for J Lyons and Co, who made Mr Whippy,
the original soft-serve ice cream was invented and
sold in the USA much earlier than in the UK. The
story is said to have been invented by her detractors
as a metaphor for the Iron Lady’s politics (take
something good and change it to make it less good
but more profitable…). We’ll leave you to decide
whether or not it was an accurate analogy.

DINNER PARTY
RULES The days when a dinner party meant black ties, best silver cutlery and passing the
port are long gone. These days gatherings around the table are a lot more laid-back.
That doesn’t mean anything goes, though, says food writer and veteran dinner
party-thrower Debora Robertson. Here’s how to avoid a contemporary faux pas
H
ow straightforward it was back
in the day, when all you needed
to do was put on your best suit
or frock, spend the first half of the
evening speaking to the person on your
right, the second half to the person on
your left, jump into a cab by midnight,
scribble a thank you note the next day,
and we all got out of there alive.
Things have changed. Our newly
casual way of living means we hardly
know when we’ve strayed over some
mysterious line on the sisal matting. In
that bastion of propriety The Lady
magazine, modern manners expert
Thomas Blaikie recently set out the new
dinner party rules, which included
departing by 10.30pm on a weeknight,
(11.15pm at weekends), never turning
up with wine that costs less than a
tenner and, if you’re the host, never
serving up a plated starter.
Personally, I’ve thrown so many
dinner parties my dishwasher should
be receiving some sort of award for its
contribution to community relations.
Here, then, are my dispatches from the
dinner party front, to ensure hosts and
guests stay happy.
The new
HOW TO BE A GOOD GUEST IN 2018
1DON’T TURN UP ON TIME
This is the act of a monster. The only
people worse than those who arrive bang
on time are those who arrive early, when
you’re still in your pinny and haven’t had
time to soften your more frazzled edges
with your first cocktail. For the very best
in civilised behaviour, arrive 10 to 15
minutes after the appointed time.
2BRING WINE IF YOU MUST
It’s now highly acceptable, not to say
fashionable, to bring craft beer or cider
instead. You look terribly cutting edge and
no one has to drink it.
3DON’T TAKE FLOWERS
Because rattling out dinner for eight
isn’t stressful enough, let’s add having to
find a suitable vase to this evil game of
party peril. Send flowers afterwards or
take along a pot plant. No cacti though
– there may be pricks at the table as it is.
4KEEP YOUR DIET TO YOURSELF
If you’re vegan, vegetarian or have
a deadly food allergy, of course you should
let your host know beforehand. However,
if you’re just off dairy this week, flirting
with gluten-free or drearily carb-phobic,
do keep it to yourself, there’s a love.
There’s honestly nothing more boring
than the pick-and-mix culinary
peccadillos of others.
5 DOANDTALKRELIGION
POLITICS
It’s so prissy to skirt around the interesting
stuff in favour of – what? House prices and
illnesses? Do also watch out for terminal
eyeglazeoveritis when boasting about
your kids to anyone who is not a relative.
6DON’T HELP
Of course, do offer, but not with any
real intent. Unless invited, don’t start
clearing tables or washing up. It’s your job
as a guest to sit there and be absolutely
fascinating, damn it.
7 DO ACCEPT THAT LAST DRINK
If I’m pouring the hard stuff, or that
weird digestif I dragged back from my
hols, it’s because I want you to stay. If
I suggest tea or coffee, I am mentally
calling you a cab. Please don’t expect me
to actually make the tea or coffee.
ILLUSTRATION: CARMEN JOHNSON
8KNOW WHEN TO LEAVE
Mr Blaikie speaks perfect sense when
he says weeknight dinners should be over
by 10.30pm. We aren’t 20 any more and
being in (your own) bed by midnight is
one of the cornerstones of civilised life.
 food for thought.

But if anyone left my house at 11.15pm

on a Saturday night, I would hang up my
apron forever. Do stay. Have another
drink. Laugh. Gossip. Drag out the old
vinyl and let’s dance around the kitchen.
Don’t leave me this way. Not just yet.

9DO SEND A THANK YOU

Of course, a letter is delicious and
people will remember your impeccable
guestitude forever; a postcard is good and
an email is fine. The most dreadful thing
you can do is to resist sending an email or
text as you absolutely, positively are going
to write that letter. Just as soon as you find
the perfect stationery, buy an ink pen,
master calligraphy and find a stamp. And
suddenly you’re bumping into your hosts
at another event 10 months later and
they’re wondering why they never heard
from you again and is it because you hated
their cousin Bert or the syllabub or, in fact,
them. Send the bloody email.

10AND AS FOR THE HOST...

DON’T SHOW OFF
If you want your guests to relax and have
a good time, you need to make it look, or
at least feel, effortless. No one cares that
you spent the whole weekend watching
YouTube videos of how to make swans
from choux pastry. Bowls of bought ice
cream taste sweeter than any amount of
culinary braggadocio.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 35
 inspiration.

Memories
ARE MADE OF THIS
It’s uncanny how a particular smell can, in a split second, trigger
recollections of times gone by. Or how a much loved cooking
utensil can come to symbolise a part of your history you never
want to let go of. Here, the delicious. team share the objects that
spark edible memories for them – with recipes to go alongside
PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY SCOTT FOOD STYLING JEN BEDLOE AND OLIVIA SPURRELL STYLING LUIS PERAL

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 37

EDITOR KAREN BARNES
In our kitchen at home there’s a
huge drawer full of pans and baking
equipment. Hidden at the back is
a slightly battered item, one with
which I’d never part: it’s a bread tin,
blackened with use, and with our
family name embossed on the side so
it imprints every loaf. It must be more than 60 years old.
My great-grandma set up Bourdeaux’s bakery three
generations ago after her husband Cecil was gassed
in World War I and was unable to work. His wife was
so ashamed that she forbade all mention of him. We
only recently discovered that he lived out his days in
an institution. That in itself is shameful now. Great-
Granny Bourdeaux had to find a way of supporting
the family and she did that by getting my grandfather
(Papa or Pop) to train as a baker and run a bakery with
his younger brother Brian.
The bakery became famous in Cornwall and Pop
was renowned for his pasties (he was once called ‘the
pasty king of Cornwall’ on the radio), bread and saffron
cakes. When I was a child, there was no sweeter
pleasure than spending days at my grandad’s side,
watching as he made puff pastry, patting on dabs of
fat and rolling the dough back and forth, or helping
assistant baker Arthur crimp pasties and shape bread
rolls under his cupped palm. But the enduring
memory? Those buttercup-yellow loaves, studded with
fruit, the smell of a spice from faraway lands filling
the bakery as they cooked to perfection in the ovens.
This is a different take on the traditional recipe – no
fruit and scented with orange peel – and I’ve called it
saffron loaf, rather than saffron cake. As we’re using
his heirloom tin, I think Pop would forgive us the
tweak – as long as we don’t commit the sacrilege
of smearing butter on the slices…
SP EC IAL
GR ANDPAR EN TS
Nanny and Papa
Bourdeaux
SERVES 10. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN
TIME 45 MIN, PLUS 4 HOURS PROVING
The dough can have its
MAKE second rise in the fridge
AHEAD
overnight (step 5), but you
will need to bring it back to room
temperature before shaping.
Leave the dough to prove (step 6)
in the tin as in the recipe.
The baked loaf will keep for 48
hours in a sealed container. Freeze,
sliced and well wrapped in cling film
and foil, for up to 1 month.
• ½ x 0.4g pack saffron threads
• Grated zest 1 orange, juice ½
• 500g strong white bread flour,
plus extra for dusting
• 1 tsp salt
• 1½ tsp ground mixed spice
• 70g caster sugar
• 25g fresh yeast (or 7g sachet
dried yeast)
• 180ml whole milk, gently warmed
• 2 medium free-range eggs,
beaten, plus 1 egg, beaten, to
glaze
• 50g unsalted butter, softened
• Sunflower oil for greasing
• 150g icing sugar
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 3lb (1.3kg) loaf tin, lightly oiled
1 Mix the saffron and orange zest
with 40ml boiling water in a small
heatproof bowl and set aside to cool.
2 Sift the flour, salt, mixed spice and
sugar in a large bowl. In a jug, blend
the yeast with the milk until smooth.
3 Make a well in the middle of the
flour mixture and add the saffron
and orange water, yeast/milk,
2 beaten eggs and the softened
butter. Mix lightly with your fingers
until everything comes together to
form a slightly sticky (but not wet)
dough. Mix in a tablespoon of warm
water if the mixture is a bit dry.
4 Turn the dough out onto a lightly
floured surface and knead for 10
minutes or until silky smooth. Lift
the dough up high and slap it back
down onto the surface to develop
the gluten. You are after a stretchy
Pop Bourdeaux
in the bakery
in his 70s
dough that’s firmer than when you
started. Put the kneaded dough into
a lightly oiled bowl, cover with cling
film and leave somewhere warm
(a kitchen cupboard is ideal) to rise
for 1½-2 hours until doubled in size
(rich doughs like this take longer to
rise than regular bread doughs).
5 Turn the dough out of the bowl
onto a lightly floured surface and
gently knead a couple of times
to release any large air bubbles.
Return the dough to the oiled bowl,
re-cover and leave to rise for
1 hour more or until doubled in
size (see Make Ahead).
6 Shape the dough into a smooth
lozenge shape the length of your
tin, then carefully put it in the tin.
Brush the bread generously with
the beaten egg. Loosely cover with
oiled cling film and leave the loaf
to prove for about 1 hour until risen
to almost the height of the tin (or
higher if your tin is shallow).
7 Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/
gas 5. Bake the loaf for 30-35
minutes until risen and golden
brown. Leave to cool in the tin for
10 minutes, then turn out onto a
wire rack to cool completely.
8 In a small bowl combine the icing
sugar and orange juice to make
a smooth, thick but drizzleable
icing. Drizzle it over the bread and
leave to set. Serve sliced as it is or
lightly toasted under the grill.
PER SERVING 343kcals, 6.8g fat (3.5g
saturated), 8.9g protein, 60.8g carbs
(23.1g sugars), 0.6g salt, 1.7g fibre
For more ways to use saffron,
see Loose Ends →
 inspiration.

A TASTE OF
CORNWALL
Karen’s new
saffron loaf

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 39
 SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN

Once the chips have been

ART EDITOR MARTINE TINNEY
Nan had owned her deep fat
fryer for years, maybe decades, and
that’s how she always cooked her
chips. It was a real treat to go to her
house on a Saturday night when I
was young. My brother and I would
stay at hers while my parents went
out. We were never allowed chips at home (especially
not at 9 o’clock at night), but Nan used to make them
for us as a treat. They were so good I can still smell
them now. The important thing about her homemade
chips is that they came in all different shapes and
sizes – nothing got wasted, so you got the crispy
ends mixed in with the rest. We always added
lashings of salt and vinegar. They were the best.
MAKE
AHEAD fried once (step 2), they can
be kept on the baking tray,
covered, in the fridge for up to 24
hours. Complete the recipe, frying
at the higher temperature, to serve.
Use fresh oil as research
FOOD
TEAM’S shows it’s best not to reuse
TIP
oil that’s been used for
frying at high temperatures.
• 800g floury potatoes (we used
maris piper)
• 2 litres sunflower oil (see tip)
• Malt vinegar and sea salt flakes
to serve
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Digital probe thermometer
or a deep-fat fryer
1 Peel the potatoes and chop into
finger-size chips (any length will do).
2 Fill a large deep-sided saucepan
8-10cm deep (no more than halfway)
with the sunflower oil and heat until
the oil reaches 140°C on a digital
probe thermometer (a raw chip will
sizzle and float to the top – or use
a deep-fat fryer). Once the oil
Martine’s
nan Winnie
is u u , us
slotted spoon (or frying basket) to
add half the chips to the pan, then
fry for 7-8 minutes until tender but
not coloured. Remove with a slotted
spoon to a baking tray and repeat
with the remaining chips. Leave to
cool completely (see Make Ahead).
3 Increase the oil temperature to
180°C (or when a piece of bread
browns in about 30 seconds). Add
half the chips to the pan/fryer
and cook for 3-4 minutes until
golden and crisp. Remove to a bowl
lined with kitchen paper to drain,
then repeat with the remaining chips.
Drizzle with plenty of vinegar and
toss with sea salt to serve.
PER SERVING 274kcals, 11.2g fat (1.4g
saturated), 3.9g protein, 37.3g carbs
(1.7g sugars), trace salt, 4g fibre

CHIPS OFF
THE OLD BLOCK
Martine and Winnie’s
late-night treats
 inspiration.

Hugh’s prawn, cabbage &

sichuan pepper stir-fry
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN

Vary the veg in the stir-fry

NEXT according to what’s in
TIME
season/your fridge, or swap
the prawns for chicken or beef
strips, if you prefer.

• Rapeseed oil for frying

• 1 red pepper, finely sliced
• 1 onion, finely sliced
• ½ broccoli head, cut into florets
• ¼ savoy cabbage, shredded
• 200g chestnut mushrooms, sliced
• 300g fresh (or cooked) medium
egg noodles
• 350g sustainable raw peeled
king prawns
A PAN FOR • 200g firm tofu, cut into 1cm slices
ALL SEASONS • 200g beansprouts, soaked in cold
Hugh’s quick water for a few minutes to refresh
stir-fry
• Lime wedges to serve

FOR THE DRESSING

• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 1 tsp sichuan pepper, finely
ground in a pestle and mortar
• 1 red chilli, finely chopped
DEPUTY CHIEF SUB EDITOR HUGH THOMPSON • 3 tbsp shaoxing rice wine (from
the world food section of large
My favourite tools are a scorched wooden spatula, a 6-inch supermarkets)
Sabatier knife and a wok. The spatula attached itself to me somehow • 4 tbsp soy sauce, plus extra
on a move from one flat to another and we’ve been inseparable since. • 1 tbsp honey
Cooking without it feels awkward. The knife was a present from my • 2cm piece fresh ginger, grated
mum because I’d shown an interest in cooking. It’s not sharp at all
now and the tip is bent, but it’s still my go-to cutter. It just feels right 1 Mix all the dressing ingredients in
in the hand. And the wok I bought in 1989 in London’s Chinatown. It a small bowl and set aside. Heat a
seemed exotic and although it was cheap it was mine. It marked a move from student large wok with a good glug of oil, add
life to being an adult (sort of). I spent time seasoning it the pepper and onion and stir-fry for
and despite being unsure about the ‘never washing wit 2-3 minutes until softening.
soap’ (I did occasionally), over the years it has 2 Add the broccoli, cabbage and
developed a black non-stick patina. Now I rinse it in mushrooms, then stir-fry for a
water, dry it, then I oil the pan and put it back into its few more minutes until starting
special place for old woks in the cupboard. to soften. Add the dressing,
One of my food memories as a child is of Granny noodles, prawns and tofu and
Thompson’s sulphurous smelling cabbage. Maybe I’m stir-fry for a final 4-5 minutes
imagining it but I suspect she would put the Sunday until everything is steaming hot,
greens on to cook before going to Mass, returning to crunchy but cooked through.
find the windows all steamed up and the greens cooked Stir in the beansprouts and serve
to a dull sludge. A visit did have its rewards, though. with extra soy sauce and lime
After lunch Pop would always pull out a tin of large, wedges for squeezing.
jaw-sticking toffees and offer them around. PER SERVING 414kcals, 13.2g fat
This stir-fry uses cabbage (cooked for just a few 1.6g saturated), 32.9g protein,
minutes) to great effect. I miss Gran and Pop but Gran 6.5g carbs (13.6g sugars),
and Pop
I don’t miss the sulphurous cabbage. .6g salt, 9.2g fibre →
in Dublin

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 41
 Christine’s (Vic’s mum’s)
slow-cooked beef stew
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN,
OVEN TIME 4½-5 HOURS

Make up to 4 days ahead and

MAKE keep covered in the fridge.
AHEAD
Freeze in a resealable
container for up to 3 months.
If using an Aga, halve the stock
FOOD
TEAM’S and ale, as the liquid won’t
TIP
reduce as much – it’s good to
have a thick gravy.

• Olive oil for frying

• 3 small onions, each cut into 8 wedges
• 4 carrots, sliced into thick rounds
• 2 celery sticks, roughly sliced
• 200g chestnut mushrooms, halved
• 3 garlic cloves, sliced
• 1.5kg British braising steak, cut into
chunky pieces
• 4 tbsp plain flour
• 1 tsp English mustard powder
• 4 tbsp tomato purée
FARMHOUSE • 330ml brown ale
GOODNESS • 4 Oxo beef stock cubes, dissolved in
Christine’s 800ml boiling water
beef stew
• ½ tbsp Worcestershire sauce
• 4 bay leaves
• Seasonal potatoes to serve

1 Heat the oven to 140°C/120°C fan/

gas 1. Heat a glug of oil in a casserole
DIGITAL EDITOR (MATERNITY COVER) VIC GRIMSHAW (one with a lid) over a medium heat.
Add the onions, carrots and celery and
I remember my mum braising steak in the bottom of the Aga fry for 8-10 minutes until softened. Add
for what felt like days on end. It always smelled amazing and the the mushrooms and garlic and fry for
aroma flooded through the house. Finally we were rewarded with 4 minutes more, stirring occasionally.
platefuls of tender beef and oniony, super-soft carroty goodness. 2 Meanwhile, heat a glug of oil in
The Aga was a gift for my folks’ wedding anniversary, which a frying pan over a medium-high heat.
makes it 50 years old and still In a bowl, toss the beef with the flour,
going strong. It really was mustard powder and salt and pepper.
– and is – the hub of the house. So much Chr istine Brown the beef in 2-3 batches, then add
happens on, around and in it. For Mum, Oxo and her to the casserole with the tomato purée
trusty Aga
was the stock cube of choice. She had (and still and ale. Stir well and bubble over a high
has) a classic Oxo dispenser from the Seventies heat for 2-3 minutes. Pour in the stock
fixed to the wall, and I found it fascinating to and Worcestershire sauce and add the
play with as a child. bay leaves. Bring to the boil, cover, put
Whatever the time of year, the finished in the oven and cook for 4½-5 hours.
dish was always served with potatoes – 3 Check the beef is tender (it should fall
glorious spuds, in all their seasonal beauty! apart easily when prodded with a fork)
My dad was a farmer, like his father before taste and season with salt and pepper.
him, mainly arable and mainly potatoes. So Serve with seasonal potatoes.
whether it was fresh-from-the-ground new PER SERVING (FOR 6) 503kcals, 18.8g
potatoes or earthy baked potatoes in winter, fat (6.5g saturated), 58.7g protein, 19.9g
they made the meal of my childhood. carbs (9.3g sugars), 1.8g salt, 4.4g fibre
 inspiration.

“I remember standing on a chair to Jen’s giant pan cookie

SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN
reach the kitchen work surface in our TIME 25-30 MIN

kitchen, feeling so happy with my lot” • 175g unsalted butter, softened

FOOD EDITOR JEN BEDLOE • 200g light brown soft sugar
• 1 large free-range egg, beaten
I grew up in the Eighties and my mum would bake every Monday • 1 tsp vanilla extract
to set the family up for the week. Buns, as we called them then, were • 250g plain flour
freshly baked and stashed in tins. Some would have the scent of • 1 tsp baking powder
freshly zested orange and a drizzle of icing, some would be flavoured • ½ tsp fine salt
with mixed spice, lemon and currants, others were left plain for us to • 200g chocolate chips (we
decorate according to our whim. used Guittard Maxi Milk
One memory that has stayed with me Chocolate Baking Chips, from
even more strongly than the taste of those fluffy bakes is lakeland.co.uk or amazon.co.uk)
the sharing-out of the batter. There were three of us, so I • Vanilla ice cream to serve
got the bowl (eldest), my sister (Kathryn with a ‘K’) got the
Kenwood ‘K’ beater, and my brother Peter got a specially YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
‘dirtied’ wooden spatula. I remember standing on • 23cm cast-iron frying pan
a dining chair to reach the kitchen work surface or 23cm sandwich tin
in our kitchen feeling so happy with my lot. The
cakes were good, too, but it was all about that 1 Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/
bowl. To echo that sense of sharing I’ve gas 5. In a stand mixer with the
created a pan cookie recipe that doesn’t paddle attachment or ‘K beater’ (or
hang around long. Have spoons (and ice in large mixing bowl using an
cream) at the ready, then dive in. Jen (centre) with electric hand mixer), cream the
Kathr yn and Peter
butter and sugar together until pale
and fluffy. Add the egg and
vanilla, then beat until
well combined.
MONSTER COOKIE 2 Sift over the flour,
Jen’s taste of
childhood
baking powder and salt,
then beat again briefly
to combine. Stir in
the chocolate
chips using a
wooden spoon or
spatula (for Peter),
then spoon the dough into
the frying pan/cake tin
and press down gently
to flatten and spread
evenly to the edges.
Bake for 25-30
minutes until risen and
golden. Top with
scoops of ice cream,
then dig straight in
with your spoons!
PER SERVING (FOR 8)
519kcals, 27g fat (16.4g
saturated), 6.2g protein,
61.8g carbs (37.8g sugars),
0.6g salt, 0.3g fibre
NEXT MONTH
A springtime feast
to pack and go

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 43
 The recipe hall of fame
MACAROONS
British cookery expert Debbie
Major turns her hand to
traditional macaroons, tweaking
the recipe until she finds the
definitive version with a sweet
crunch and a soft, yielding centre.
Then, over the page, she whips up
a hazelnut version sandwiched
with indulgent chocolate ganache
44 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
THE MASTER
RECIPE…
MAKES 16. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
OVEN TIME 20-22 MIN, PLUS COOLING
The macaroons will keep
MAKE for 2-3 weeks in an airtight
AHEAD
jar or tin somewhere cool.
• 100g whole blanched almonds,
plus 8 to decorate
• 150g golden caster sugar
• 60g free-range egg whites (about
2 medium eggs, or use Two Chicks
Egg White, twochicks.co.uk, from
large supermarkets)
• 2 tbsp ground rice or fine
semolina
• ¼ tsp almond extract
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Disposable plastic or nylon piping
bag fitted with 1.5cm plain piping
nozzle
• 2 sturdy baking sheets lined with
rice paper or non-stick baking
paper (see Debbie’s tips for
success, right)
1 Heat the oven to 150°C/130°C fan/
gas 2. Using a small sharp knife,
split the 8 extra almonds in half
lengthways and set aside.
2 Put the remaining 100g blanched
almonds in a food processor and
whizz until they’re coarsely ground.
Scoop out 30g and set aside. Add the
sugar to the remainder in the
food processor and whizz briefly
until the nuts are very finely ground.
3 Put the egg whites in a clean
mixing bowl and, using an electric
hand mixer, whisk for about
15 seconds until they’re foamy and
aerated. Stir in the nut and sugar
mixture, the reserved coarsely
ground nuts, the ground rice or
semolina and the almond extract.
4 Spoon the mixture into the piping
bag then, holding the nozzle 1cm
above the baking sheet, pipe about
1½ tbsp mixture for each macaroon
to make 16 in all, leaving plenty
PHOTOGRAPHS: KATE WHITAKER. FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON
of space in between to allow for
spreading during baking.
5 Put an almond half, rounded side
up, in the centre of each macaroon
and bake for 20-22 minutes or until
golden brown around the edges and
pale golden in the centre. Slide the
biscuits, still on the paper, onto a
wire rack and leave to cool.
6 If you’ve used rice paper (which
is edible), cut around each macaroon
to remove the excess. Or, if you’ve
used non-stick baking paper, lift off
the macaroons. Store in an airtight
jar or tin (see Make Ahead).
PER MACAROON 85kcals, 3.5g fat
(0.3g saturated), 2.2g protein,
11.2g carbs (9.6g sugars), trace salt,
0.1g fibre

THE DEFINING
CHARACTERISTICS
The ideal macaroon should be
a uniformly round, light golden
brown biscuit with a smooth,
slightly shiny surface. Ideally
your macaroons should be crisp
on the outside – particularly around
the edges – and slightly chewy on
the inside.
THE ESSENTIAL
INGREDIENTS
EGG WHITES These are the key
to a light macaroon. It may seem
pedantic to weigh out the egg
whites, but medium eggs in the
shell can range in size from
between 53g and 63g each and
varying weights can drastically
affect the consistency of the
macaroon mixture and how much it
spreads before and during baking.
You’re after a slightly firm rather
than a loose mixture.
ALMONDS Make sure your nuts are
fresh. They go stale easily and the
oils within the nut start to take on
an unpleasant flavour.
SUGAR I like to use golden caster
sugar in all my baking because it
favourites.
adds a golden tinge and a slightly
caramelised flavour – but ordinary How to jazz up your macaroons
caster sugar will do fine if that’s all • Add a touch of cocoa powder to the mix. Whizz it
you have. briefly into the ground nuts and sugar (step 2).
• Stir 50g dark chocolate chips into the finished
DEBBIE’S TIPS mixture (step 3), then spoon the mixture onto the
FOR SUCCESS sheets as the chips may clog up a piping nozzle.
• Don’t over-whizz the nuts in • Swap the almond extract for another flavouring.
step 2, either before you add the Vanilla is great (see hazelnut macaroons, p46) but
sugar or once they’re mixed orange or lemon extract, or a few drops of rose
together. Over-whizzing will cause or orange blossom water, also work well.
oils to be released from the nuts, • For after-dinner coffee macaroons add a
making the mixture claggy and teaspoon of instant espresso powder and a few
heavy, resulting in greasy biscuits. drops of coffee extract to the mixture. These
• Use sturdy, heavy-duty baking work well filled with the chocolate ganache from
sheets that won’t twist in the heat of the hazelnut macaroons overleaf.
the oven, potentially spoiling the • Add a pinch of spice to the mixture. Ground
finished shape of the macaroons. cinnamon, nutmeg or mixed spice work well.
• Line the baking sheets with rice
paper or non-stick baking paper.
Rice paper is traditional. I like the
professional finish it gives but it
isn’t essential and non-stick baking
paper works just as well.
• If you find the macaroons aren’t
baking evenly, turn the trays and
swap the oven shelves.
• Piping rather than spooning the
mixture onto the baking sheets is
quicker and gives the macaroons
a more uniform size and shape. →
Turn the page for a
twist on macaroons →
favourites.
Recipe with a twist
Hazelnut macaroon and
chocolate fancies
MAKES 12 FANCIES. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN,
OVEN TIME 20 MIN, PLUS COOLING
Making macaroons with
hazelnuts gives a crisper biscuit,
which goes well with the rich,
creamy chocolate ganache.
The macaroons will keep
MAKE well for up to 3 weeks
AHEAD
without the ganache filling.
Fill up to 12 hours in advance (any
longer and they’ll start to go soft).
FOOD
These macaroons are made
TEAM’S to be a little smaller than in
TIPS
the master recipe (p44). the
mixture will spread out more too.
Pipe the ganache between the
biscuits for a neater finish.
• 1 quantity of macaroon mixture
(see p44), substituting 100g whole
blanched hazelnuts plus 6 extra,
NEXT sliced in half, for decoration
MONTH
(instead of the blanched almonds)
Classic eggs
benedict, plus and vanilla extract (instead of
a new take on it almond extract)
46 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• Icing sugar to dust (optional)
FOR THE CHOCOLATE GANACHE FILLING
• 80g dark chocolate (about 50%
cocoa solids)
• 30g milk chocolate (minimum 34%
cocoa solids)
• 150ml double cream
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 1-2 disposable plastic or nylon
piping bags fitted with a 1.5cm
plain piping nozzle
• 2 sturdy baking sheets lined with
non-stick baking paper (not rice
paper in this recipe)
1 Use a pencil to draw 12 x 3cm
diameter circles on each lined baking
sheet, using the end of a piping
nozzle as a template, so you have 24
in all. Leave a 4cm gap between each
circle to allow room for the biscuits
to spread (see tips). Flip the paper
(the circles will show through).
2 Make the macaroon mixture as in
the master recipe on p44, using the
substituted ingredients, left. Pipe
1-2 tsp of the mixture into each circle
on the paper, then put half a
blanched hazelnut in the centre of
12 (half) of them. Bake for 20
minutes or until crisp and golden.
Slide the biscuits, still on the paper,
onto a wire rack and leave to cool.
Store in a tin until you’re ready to fill
and serve (see Make Ahead).
3 For the ganache, break both
chocolates into pieces in a small
heatproof bowl. Pour the cream into
a pan and place it over a medium-
high heat. Heat until small bubbles
start to form around the edge of the
pan, but don’t let the cream boil.
Pour the cream over the chocolate
and stir vigorously until melted and
the mixture is smooth and shiny.
Leave to cool at room temperature
until thick and spreadable.
4 Sandwich one nut-topped macaroon
and one plain macaroon together
with a generous dollop of the ganache
(see tips). Dust lightly with icing
sugar, if you like, before serving.
PER FANCY 261kcals, 17.2g fat
(6.4g saturated), 4.5g protein,
21.6g carbs (19.4g sugars), trace
salt, 0.7g fibre
 STAR OF THE SEASON

PURPLE SPROUTING
BROCCOLI With its elegant stems and heather-like tops,
this highly prized brassica is brilliantly versatile. WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Choose sturdy, vivid green stems with
It’s quick to cook and brings colour and crunch a fresh, purple-hued crown. The
to dishes – and is as happy in a simple stir-fry as leaves should be deep green in colour
with no wilting.
it is in an elegant side dish. I also like to stir How to store it Purple sprouting
sliced stems into stews at the end of the cooking time to add broccoli will last longer if you keep
in the fridge in a paper bag.
texture and a burst of colour. I’ve given one of the recipes
here a Thai twist, tossing the PSB with a vibrant dressing
to accompany tuna. In the other dish I’ve ramped up the
umami factor by charring whole stems and pairing them with
punchy anchovy and tahini. LOTTIE COVELL, ACTING FOOD LIFESTYLE EDITOR
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL
PHOTOGRAPHS KATE WHITAKER
STYLING TONY HUTCHINSON

48 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 what’s good now.

Thai-style tuna and

broccoli salad
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN

Buy the tuna from a good

FOOD
TEAM’S fishmonger (or fish counter)
TIP
and ask for thick steaks,
which won’t cook all the way through
as quickly. Thinner tuna steaks may
only need a minute on each side.

• 200g soba (buckwheat) noodles

• Toasted sesame oil for drizzling
• 2 x 200g thick tuna steaks (see tip)
• 300g purple sprouting broccoli,
sliced into 3-4cm pieces
• 1-2 tbsp soy sauce
• Bunch spring onions, finely
chopped
• 2 carrots, peeled into ribbons
• 1 ripe avocado, thinly sliced
• Bunch fresh coriander, roughly
chopped, plus extra leaves to serve
• Bunch fresh mint, leaves chopped,
plus a few extra leaves to serve

FOR THE DRESSING

• 4 tbsp fish sauce
• 2 tbsp palm sugar, plus extra to
taste
• Thumb-size piece fresh ginger,
grated
• Juice 3 limes, plus wedges to serve
• 1 red chilli, finely chopped
• 4 tbsp toasted sesame oil
1 Whisk all the dressing ingredients
in a jug. Taste and season with salt,
pepper and, if needed, more palm
sugar, then set aside.
2 Bring a pan of water to the boil,
add the noodles and cook for 5
minutes. Drain, then run under cold
water for 2-3 minutes until cool and
silky. Put in a mixing bowl and toss
with a few drops of sesame oil to
stop them sticking.
3 Heat a griddle pan or heavy-based
frying pan over a high heat until
smoking. Drizzle the tuna with oil
and season with pepper. Sear for 2
minutes on each side for rare (see
tip) or longer if you like. Remove and
set aside, covered loosely with foil.
4 Add the broccoli to the griddle pan
and griddle, turning, for 2-3 minutes
until starting to colour and soften a
little. Splash over the soy sauce,
then griddle for another few minutes
until tender but retaining a little bite.
5 Add the spring onions, carrot
ribbons and avocado to the noodles,
then toss with the herbs, cooked
broccoli and dressing. Divide
among 4 serving plates (or a
large platter). Slice the seared
tuna, lay it over the salad and
sprinkle with herb leaves. Serve
with lime wedges for squeezing.
PER SERVING 580kcals, 23.3g fat
(4.2g saturated), 36.6g protein,
51.6g carbs (16.2g sugars), 2.3g salt,
8.6g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Go for an
aromatic New World white – an
off-dry one such as New Zealand
riesling or gewurztraminer.
For more ways to use palm sugar,
see Loose Ends →
what’s good now.
Charred broccoli with
anchovy and tahini sauce
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR 2 AS A MAIN,
WITH LEFTOVER SAUCE. HANDS-ON TIME
30 MIN, OVEN TIME 30-35 MIN
The sauce will keep for 2-3
MAKE days in a sealed container
AHEAD
in the fridge. Char the
broccoli just before serving.
Add some smoked bacon
NEXT lardons before adding the
TIME
broccoli to the pan.
• 300g purple sprouting broccoli
• Olive oil for brushing and frying
• Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling
• 1 red chilli, finely chopped
FOR THE ANCHOVY AND TAHINI SAUCE
• 1 garlic bulb, halved horizontally
• Olive oil for frying
• 1 onion, finely chopped
NEXT • 3 anchovy fillets in oil, drained
MONTH • 100ml dry white wine
Asparagus: • 400g tin chickpeas, drained
celebrate spring’s
favourite green • 50g tahini
shoots • 100ml double cream
50 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• 1 lemon, halved
• Sea salt flakes to serve
1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C
fan/gas 4. For the anchovy and
tahini sauce, wrap each garlic half
in foil and bake for 30-35 minutes
until fragrant and tender. Squeeze
the garlic cloves from their skins
into the bowl of a food processor
(discard the skins).
2 Meanwhile, heat a glug of oil
in a frying pan and fry the onion
over a medium heat for 10 minutes
until soft and starting to brown.
Add the anchovies and fry for a few
more minutes, stirring, until they
break down into the onions.
3 Turn up the heat to high and add
the wine. Reduce for 5-10 minutes,
then add the chickpeas, tahini and
cream, season with salt and black
pepper and add lemon juice to
taste. Spoon everything into the
processor with the garlic and
whizz until smooth. Return the
smooth sauce to the pan.
4 Heat a griddle pan or another
(heavy based) frying pan and brush
the broccoli with oil. When the pan
is hot, put in the broccoli in a single
layer and cook, turning regularly,
for 5-8 minutes until tender and
charred in parts. You might have to
do this in a couple of batches,
depending on the size of your
griddle/frying pan. Toss the cooked
broccoli in a bowl with a generous
glug of extra-virgin olive oil and
the chopped chilli.
5 Warm the anchovy and tahini
sauce in the pan on a medium heat.
Spoon the sauce onto a serving
plate and top with the charred
broccoli. Add another squeeze of
lemon juice and a drizzle of
extra-virgin olive oil, then crumble
over sea salt flakes and serve.
PER SERVING (FOR 4) 337kcals,
24.6g fat (7.4g saturated), 9.9g
protein, 12.3g carbs (4.3g sugars),
0.2g salt, 8.1g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Make it
a bone-dry white with a light saline
note, such as Spain’s godello or
England’s bacchus.
 miso ’easy
[perfect for dressings, marinades & more!]

Miso & lemon poached salmon with a spring salad

for the full recipe visit: www.itsu.com/recipes
 what’s good now.

Gill Meller
A COOK’S YEAR He’s made an art of celebrating the fruits of land and
sea and, as group head chef at River Cottage, he’s well
attuned to eating with the seasons. This month Gill
turns his attentions to wood pigeon, a truly wild meat
that works well with a variety of spices and flavours
PHOTOGRAPH: ALAMY

RECIPE, FOOD STYLING AND STYLING GILL MELLER PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY
 When you hear the word pigeon, try to scrub out images of the marauding,
scraggy flocks of one-legged birds pirating about busy city centres. Those are
feral pigeons; wood pigeons are a diferent species.
The wood pigeon spends a life on the wing, during which it commands vast
areas of wood and open farmland. There are no chains in their skyway. There
are no fences to keep them in, or keepers to shut them up. They are wild and
free and, as a result, benefit from a completely natural diet. What’s more,
they’re common, so their numbers will occasionally be culled. All this makes
them one of the most sustainable and healthy forms of meat we could hope to
eat. Beyond that? Well, they’re incredibly delicious.
Sorrel, the slender herbaceous perennial plant much loved for its appley,
sour flavour, makes a beautiful sauce to serve alongside pigeon, cutting the
rich dark meat with its clean, sharp quality.

Lightly cured pan-roast 2 Put the pigeon breasts in a glass/ceramic 5 MORE THINGS
pigeon with sorrel sauce bowl and pour over the cooled brine. Cover TO TRY WITH PIGEON

*TS&CS: OFFER INCLUDES: £70 OFF 4-DAY AND 2-DAY COURSES; £50 OFF £240 COURSES; £30 OFF £195 COURSES AND £20 OFF £145 COURSES. THIS PROMOTION CANNOT BE USED IN CONJUNCTION
and crispy bacon and chill for 12 hours or overnight. • For North African-style pigeon
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, PLUS 3 Remove the pigeon from the brine (discard pittas, rub pigeon breasts with

AT LEAST 12 HOURS CHILLING
Once removed from the brine,
MAKE the pigeon will keep covered
AHEAD
in the fridge for up to 24 hours.
Buy wood pigeon breasts from
FOOD
TEAM’S butchers, larger supermarkets or
TIPS
online from wildmeat.co.uk.
If you can’t get hold of sorrel, use the
same quantity of young leaf spinach and
wilt it with a squeeze of lemon juice.
• 8 wood pigeon breasts (see tips)
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 8 rashers streaky bacon
• Knob of butter
• 1 shallot, finely chopped
• 100ml chicken or vegetable stock
• 150g sorrel, stalks removed (see tips)
• 150ml double cream
FOR THE BRINE
• 4 tsp salt
• 6 bay leaves
• 2 garlic cloves, bashed
• Small handful fresh thyme sprigs
• 500ml apple juice
1 Put all the ingredients for the brine
in a pan set over a medium heat. Bring
to a simmer, then remove from the heat
and leave to cool completely.
the brine) and pat dry with kitchen paper.
Put on a plate, cover with cling film and
chill until needed (see Make Ahead).
4 Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium
heat. Fry the bacon until golden and starting
to crisp. Turn up the heat and add the pigeon
breasts. Fry for 2-3 minutes on each
side (it needs to be pink in the middle), then
transfer the pigeon and bacon to a plate.
Cover with foil to keep warm.
5 Lower the heat and add the butter. When
it foams, add the shallot and cook, stirring
regularly, until softened. Pour in the stock,
bring up to a simmer and bubble until most
of the liquid has evaporated.
6 Cut the sorrel leaves into rough ribbons
and add to the shallot. Give the sorrel a stir
to ensure the leaves are nicely wilted (see
tips). Add the cream, stir, then bring the
sauce up to a simmer. Cook for 1-2 minutes
until the sauce has thickened slightly.
Season, then remove the pan from the heat.
7 Divide the bacon among 4 warmed plates.
Slice the pigeon thickly and arrange next
to the bacon on the plates. Spoon the sorrel
sauce onto the plates and serve.
PER SERVING 526kcals, 43.3g fat (18.4g
saturated), 32.8g protein, 0.9g carbs
(0.8g sugars), 2.4g salt, 0.5g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Soft, oak-aged
riojas from Spain or Portuguese Douro
Valley reds are the best for wood pigeon.
WITH ANOTHER OFFER; VISIT RIVERCOTTAGE.NET/TERMS-CANCELLATION FOR FULL BOOKING TERMS; RIVER COTTAGE RESERVES THE RIGHT TO REMOVE THIS PROMOTION AT ANY TIME
a pounded paste of garlic, cumin
seeds, chilli powder, caraway seeds,
paprika, salt and black onion seeds.
Chargrill the breasts, then slice
and stuff into hot pittas. Serve with
yogurt, fresh mint and roast beetroot.
• Make pigeon rillettes, a rustic sort
of pâté. Slowly braise a whole pigeon
(see wildmeat.co.uk) in pork fat,
garlic and thyme for several hours.
When it’s very tender, shred the meat
from the bone, mix with the cooking
fat and season with salt and pepper.
When cooled, spread thickly on toast.
• Make a classic pigeon breast salad.
Fry pigeon breasts until just pink,
then slice and serve over the top of a
salad made with curly endive, warm
crunchy croutons and a sharp/sweet
mustard dressing. Perfect.
• Next time you make carbonara, give
it a gamey twist. Sear pigeon breasts
with the bacon/pancetta, remove and
rest. When ready to serve, slice the
breasts and toss through hot pasta
with the egg and grated cheese.
• Try hot-smoking: lightly cured pigeon
breasts (like the ones in the recipe,
left) smoke in minutes and are so,
so good. See p103 for hot-smoking
instructions and find equipment at
hotsmoked.co.uk.

PIGEON loves… Sweet fruit such as gooseberries, apples and plums, particularly when they’re stewed or fried until
sticky-sweet. • Big aromatic spices: try star anise, chilli, ginger, garlic and vinegar. • Smoke and fire: barbecuing pigeon breast
works a treat, as does smoking it or chargrilling it. Herbs such as thyme, rosemary and bay are all good things to get involved here.

54 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 what’s good now.

READER
SAVE UP TO £70 ON A RIVER COTTAGE COOKERY COURSE
OFFER Here’s how: visit rivercottage.net/cookery-
courses to see the full cookery school diary then,
when you book, enter the code DELICIOUS to receive
your discount. The offer is valid until 30 June 2018 and
can be used on any River Cottage course during 2018.*
 The object
of my
confection...
Ravinder Bhogal launches her two-month
residency with recipes based on magical,
golden, bubbling caramel. They’re glamorous,
gorgeous and, like the film that inspired them,
just a little bittersweet

RAVINDER BHOGAL
Food writer
in residence
No 6

56 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 the residency.

SWEET-SOUR AND HOT

Prawns with
tamarind caramel and
black pepper, p58

RECIPES RAVINDER BHOGAL

PHOTOGRAPHS MIKE ENGLISH
FOOD STYLING JEN BEDLOE
STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Turn the page for Ravinder’s recipes →

There is no cinematic moment
that has compelled me to want
to run to the kitchen to have my way
with a bag of sugar more than the
opening titles of Caramel, a languidly
beguiling Lebanese film directed by
Nadine Labaki. It unveils the private
lives and longings of four women who all
work in a beauty salon in Beirut.
The title refers to a much-loved sugar
confection, which is of course edible, but
that’s often used across the Middle East
for depilation purposes, much like wax.
The film opens with a voyeuristic peek
into caramel being prepared in a
battered pan on a rickety stove. What
the sequence lacks in sleekness and
chicness, it makes up for with a friendly,
familiar warmth that’s inviting and
instantly seductive. It’s in the moment
when caramel is poured and the camera
pans over a river of golden bubbling
sugar that I marvel at the magic of it – an
alchemy of sugar and heat that creates
something completely irresistible.
The film is a touch sentimental but
that’s not to say it’s soppy or saccharine –
the women face moments of loneliness,
disappointment and heartbreak but
show resilience and optimism. Life,
like the caramel they concoct, has
a wealth of possibilities ahead.
These recipes, inspired by that
film, are just some of them.
58 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Prawns with tamarind
caramel and black pepper
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
In this recipe I’ve used
palm sugar, which is the
quintessential sweetener in
many Asian kitchens. It has
a complex, honeyed flavour
that makes it worth seeking
out (you can find it in larger
supermarkets). If you can’t
find palm sugar, use light
brown sugar instead. To ofset
the sweetness of the caramel, be
generous with the black pepper
– use considerably more than
you would to simply season a
dish. Size matters here too – the
larger the prawns you’re using,
the larger the surface area to
coat in all that delicious
tamarind caramel.
Make the tamarind caramel
MAKE (steps 1-2) up to 2 days
AHEAD
ahead and keep covered in
the fridge. Warm before using.
• Rapeseed oil for frying
• 500-600g sustainable raw tiger
or jumbo king prawns, heads and
shells removed but tails left
intact, defrosted if frozen
• Juice ½ lime
• Small handful fresh Thai basil (or
regular basil), leaves torn
• Jasmine rice to serve
FOR THE TAMARIND CARAMEL
• 2 red chillies, chopped (seeds
removed if you wish)
• 1 banana shallot, chopped
• Handful fresh coriander, leaves
picked, stems chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 3 tbsp rapeseed oil
• 150g palm sugar (see Ravinder’s
introduction), crushed
• 2 tbsp tamarind paste
• 1 tbsp fish sauce
1 For the tamarind caramel, pound
the chillies, shallot, coriander stems
and garlic to a paste in a pestle and
mortar (or whizz together in a mini
food processor).
2 Heat the rapeseed oil in a wide
heavy-based pan and fry the paste
for 5-7 minutes until fragrant. Add
the palm sugar and cook until
melted and golden. Add 2 tbsp cold
water (be careful as it will spit), then
cook for 2 minutes until thick and
glossy. Cool slightly, then stir in the
tamarind and fish sauce. Set aside.
3 Heat the oil in a large frying pan
over a medium heat. Add the prawns
and cook for 3-4 minutes, turning to
cook evenly. Add enough tamarind
caramel to coat, then grind in plenty
of black pepper and stir-fry for 30
seconds. Take off the heat, squeeze
over the lime juice and scatter over
the basil. Serve with cooked jasmine
rice and an extra drizzle of the
tamarind caramel.
PER SERVING 482kcals, 26.3g fat
(2g saturated), 23.1g protein,
37.8g carbs (34.1g sugars), 1.1g salt,
0.9g fibre
Tofu with caramel and
sichuan pepper
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
Tofu has been misunderstood
by some as a bland rubbery filler
food, but when cooked well it’s
surprisingly addictive. Take the
time to really dry out the tofu
and crisp up the edges. It will
melt away with each bite, leaving
a satisfying trail of heat, umami
and sweetness.
Any leftover sauce will
MAKE keep in an airtight
AHEAD
container for up to a week.
We used a 70g pack of
FOOD
TEAM’S Growing Underground
TIPS
Asian Micro Herbs Mix
from Ocado. You could use micro
herbs from finefoodspecialist.com
or use chopped fresh coriander
leaves instead.
Find Chinese black rice vinegar
online at souschef.co.uk. Or mix
½ tsp balsamic vinegar with ½ tsp
rice wine vinegar and ½ tbsp water.
Chilli bean paste is available at
souschef.co.uk. If you can’t find it,
use sriracha sauce (from large
supermarkets) instead. →
 the residency.

TINGLE THOSE TASTE BUDS

Tofu with caramel and
sichuan pepper
 FOR THE TOFU
• 396g block firm tofu (we used
Cauldron, from large supermakets)
• Olive oil for frying
• 1 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted
briefly in a dry pan until
fragrant
• Crispy fried shallots (from
a tub) and micro coriander
(see tips) to serve
FOR THE CARAMEL SAUCE
• 125g soft brown sugar
• 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
• ½ tbsp Chinese black rice vinegar
(see tips)
• 25ml light soy sauce
• ½ tbsp chilli bean paste
(see tips)
• 1 tsp grated fresh
ginger
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• ¼ tsp sichuan pepper
• ½ bird’s eye chilli, finely
sliced
1 Put the tofu block on a plate
between 2 thick wads of kitchen
paper. Press down firmly to squeeze
out as much moisture as possible,
then use more kitchen paper to pat
the surface of the tofu block dry.
2 Heat a glug of oil in a non-stick
frying pan and fry the tofu on both
sides for 4-5 minutes in total until
crisp and golden. Remove from the
pan (reserve the pan) and set aside.
3 To make the caramel sauce, put
the sugar and 3 tbsp cold water in
the pan and heat gently until the
sugar dissolves and turns into an
SUSY ATKINS’ amber caramel. Add the remaining
WINE PICKS caramel sauce ingredients and stir
The vibrant to combine.
flavours of the
prawns with 4 Return the tofu to the pan and
tamarind baste in caramel sauce. Slice
caramel demand thickly, then serve on a platter,
a hugely fruity,
tangy white.
drizzled with the remaining caramel
Make it New sauce and topped with the toasted
Zealand sesame seeds, crispy shallots and
sauvignon blanc. micro coriander.
For the tofu
with caramel PER SERVING 324kcals, 14.7g fat
sauce, open an (2.4g saturated), 13.7g protein,
off-dry white, 32.9g carbs (32.1g sugars), 1g salt,
such as a Mosel
2.5g fibre
riesling spätlese
or vouvray For more ways to use sichuan
demi-sec. pepper, see Loose Ends
60 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Miso caramel banoffee
éclairs
MAKES 20-25. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR
15 MIN, OVEN TIME 35 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Forget the traditional
torpedoes of flabby choux pastry
festooned with cream and faux
chocolate. This new-gen éclair
comes with a modern makeover:
caramel crème pâtissière sexed
up with the umami-ish appeal of
white miso paste.
The crème pâtissière will
MAKE keep in the fridge for up to
AHEAD
2 days with a piece of cling
film touching the surface.
Bake the éclairs a day ahead and
keep in an airtight container. Finish
them no more than 2 hours ahead.
Make the chocolate glaze 1-2 days
ahead and keep in a container in the
fridge. Reheat gently in a pan to
loosen before glazing the éclairs.
The chocolate may start to
FOOD
TEAM’S set when you’re glazing the
TIPS
éclairs. If so, add 1 tsp hot
water and stir to loosen it. To give
the glaze a great finish, dip the top
of each one into the glaze, then run
a clean finger over to coat evenly.
For a super-smooth crème
pâtissière, use a stick blender to
whizz the custard after chilling (step
4), before adding the double cream.
FOR THE MISO CARAMEL CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE
• 250g caster sugar
• 500ml semi-skimmed milk
• 2 tbsp white miso paste
• 1 vanilla pod, split in half
• 5 medium free-range egg yolks
(see tip on following recipe, p63,
for freezing egg whites)
• 50g cornflour
• 75ml double cream
FOR THE CHOUX PASTRY
• 75g unsalted butter, cubed
• 115g plain flour, sifted
• 3 medium free-range eggs, beaten
• Splash of milk (optional)
FOR THE CHOCOLATE GLAZE
• 150g caster sugar
• 75ml double cream
• 150g dark chocolate, chopped
• 3 ripe bananas, sliced, to serve
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 2 disposable piping bags fitted
with 12mm and 10mm plain nozzles
(or snip the corners off)
• 2-3 baking sheets lined with
non-stick baking paper
1 For the crème pâtissière, gently
heat 150g of the sugar and 75ml cold
water in a deep pan until the sugar
has dissolved. Increase the heat and
bubble until it turns into a dark
amber caramel. Meanwhile, gently
heat the milk, miso paste and vanilla
pod in another pan until steaming,
then pour into a jug and remove the
vanilla pod (rinse, dry and use to
flavour sugar, if you like).
2 Once the caramel has reached the
desired colour, lower the heat and
carefully pour in the milk mixture,
mixing slowly with a hand whisk. Be
careful as it may spit at first. Keep
whisking until all the milk has been
added. Bring up to the boil, then
remove from the heat.
3 In a heatproof bowl, whisk the egg
yolks, cornflour and remaining 100g
sugar until smooth. Still whisking,
pour the milk mixture slowly over
the egg yolks, then pour it all
through a fine mesh sieve, back into
the milk pan.
4 Return the pan to a medium heat
and whisk until it forms a smooth,
thickened custard. Pour into a bowl,
lay cling film on the surface (to stop
a skin forming) and chill for 30
minutes. Once it’s chilled (see tips),
whip the cream in a separate bowl
to soft peaks, then gently fold into
the custard. Cover again with cling
film touching the surface and chill
until needed (see Make Ahead).
5 For the choux pastry, heat the
oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. Put
the butter and 185ml cold water in a
medium saucepan set over a medium
heat until the butter has melted.
Bring to the boil, remove from the
heat and pour in the sifted flour. Beat
vigorously using a wooden spoon
until smooth, glossy and coming away
from the sides of the pan. Tip into →
 the residency.

ONE IS NEVER
ENOUGH
Miso caramel
banoffee éclairs

A few notes on turning sugar

into liquid gold
Making caramel at home can be a source of
anxiety – mostly because it can be capricious.
It can crystallise, burn or, worse still, burn
you. Here are a few tricks I’ve learned over
the years that have finally given me the Midas
touch where sugar is concerned:

• Use a heavy-based pan that keeps a steady

temperature; using a thin, flimsy pan with
hot spots is courting disaster.
• Add water to the sugar. Purists make dry
caramel by melting sugar alone – I find adding
enough water to saturate the sugar makes it
melt more easily and cook more evenly.
• Cook caramel on a low to medium heat.
• Don’t be tempted to stir it – simply tilt
and swirl the pan so the melting sugar
dissolves without dry patches. Stirring is
also the road to dreaded crystallisation.
• Give the melting sugar the undivided
attention of a devoted lover. Caramel can go
from pale amber to burnt mahogany in
seconds if your eyes wander.
SWEET TEMPTATION
Saffron and orange
blossom crème
caramels with
cardamom and
orange rhubarb

a bowl and push the mixture up the
sides to cool it quickly. Leave for
10 minutes or until it has cooled to
room temperature.
6 Slowly add the eggs, beating well
after each addition, until the mixture
is smooth and drops off the end of
a wooden spoon when tapped. (You
may not need all the eggs or you may
need to add a splash of milk.)
7 Spoon the mixture into the piping
bag fitted with the 12mm nozzle
and pipe 8 x 10cm lengths onto
each prepared baking sheet, leaving
room for the choux to expand in
the oven. Bake for 20 minutes,
then reduce the heat to 180°C/160°C
fan/gas 4 and bake for 15 minutes
more. Cool on a wire rack. Repeat
with the remaining choux on the
other baking sheet/s.
8 Meanwhile make the chocolate
glaze. Gently heat the sugar and
50ml cold water in a small pan until
dissolved. Turn up the heat and
bubble until it turns a light amber
colour. Remove from the heat and
stir in the cream, another 50ml cold
water and the dark chocolate.
Return to the heat and warm gently
until melted and combined.
9 Using a bread knife, halve the
cooled eclairs horizontally, then dip
the tops in the glaze (see tips) and
set aside. Spoon the crème
pâtissière into the piping bag with
the 10mm plain nozzle and pipe it
onto the bases. Add slices of banana
and top with the glazed lids to serve.
PER ÉCLAIR (FOR 25) 214kcals,
9.6g fat (5.3g saturated), 3.2g protein,
28.4g carbs (22.8g sugars), 0.1g salt,
0.6g fibre
Saffron and orange
blossom crème caramels
with cardamom and
orange rhubarb
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN,
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 10-15 MIN
Good crème caramels are so
much more complex than the
sickly-sweet pots of French
hypermarket infamy. They
require bravery and daring from
the cook as the caramel must be
the residency.
cooked way past golden into 140°C/120°C fan/gas 1. In a bowl,
amber, mahogany and a whisker whisk together the orange blossom
away from burnt. That edge of water, milk, saffron (and its soaking
dark, bitter caramel against the milk) and cream. In a separate bowl,
sweet, creamy custard makes for whisk together the whole eggs and
the most delightful flavour. yolks with the remaining 75g sugar.
Sometimes it’s best not to mess Slowly pour the cream mixture over
with classics, but I’ve taken the the eggs, whisking all the time.
liberty of adding a Middle 4 Put the ramekins in a roasting tin,
Eastern flourish to this one. then pour the custard mixture
evenly among them, on top of the
Make the caramels and caramel. Fill the tin with enough hot
MAKE
AHEAD rhubarb a day ahead, then water to come halfway up the sides
cover and chill separately. of the ramekins. Bake for 1 hour,
Freeze egg whites in a food then remove from the roasting tin
FOOD
TEAM’S bag marked with the date/ and leave to cool completely. Chill
TIP
quantity for up to 3 months. for an hour to firm up before
serving. When ready to serve, run
• 400g rhubarb, cut into 7cm lengths a knife around the inside of each
• 200g caster sugar ramekin and invert onto a plate.
• Grated zest 1 orange, plus 125ml Serve with the rhubarb.
orange juice PER SERVING 471kcals, 28.7g fat
• 6 green cardamom pods, bashed (16.4g saturated), 5.5g protein,
47.2g carbs (47.2g sugars), 0.1g salt,
FOR THE CRÈME CARAMELS 1g fibre
• 225g caster sugar
• 2 tsp orange blossom water
• 200ml whole milk INSPIRED? WATCH THE MOVIE…
• Tiny pinch saffron, crushed in Caramel (2007)
was directed by
1 tbsp warm milk Nadine Labaki,
• 350ml double cream who’s also one of
• 2 free-range medium eggs, plus the stars, and is
available to watch
4 egg yolks (see tip)
with English
subtitles from
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… amazon.co.uk.
• 8 x 150ml (medium) ramekins
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Toss the rhubarb in a roasting
tin with the 200g sugar, orange zest
and juice and cardamom to coat.
Roast for 10-15 minutes until tender.
Cool, then put in a serving bowl,
cover and chill until needed (see
Make Ahead).
2 For the crème caramels, combine
150g of the sugar with 100ml cold
water in a pan and heat gently until
the sugar dissolves. Keep on
a medium heat until it turns into a
deep brown caramel, taking care
not to burn it – watch it like a hawk.
When ready, quickly pour the caramel
evenly among the ramekins, tilting
them to coat the bases and sides
evenly. Put aside to cool and set.
3 Reduce the oven temperature to
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 63
 THE MENU

“I’ve fallen for so many

places through food that it
sometimes feels as if my life
has been a series of affairs”
RECIPES DIANA HENRY PHOTOGRAPHS LAURA EDWARDS FOOD STYLING JOSS HERD

The joys of ripe Mediterranean fruit are just one of the things food writer
Diana Henry reminisces about in her new book of menus and memories,
How to Eat a Peach. The eagerly awaited work combines her love of
food and lust for travel, twin passions nurtured from her earliest days.
The menu she shares here is inspired by her many journeys to France,
where she lost her heart as a teenager and which lays claim to it still
 book of the month.

Leeks with Breton

vinaigrette and pork
rillettes, p67 – add
a few other nibbles
for a very French
sharing starter

DIANA’S FRENCH MENU FOR 4

Kir Breton
%
A sharing starter of leeks with Breton
vinaigrette, pork rillettes, charcuterie,
hard-boiled eggs & crusty bread
%
Mouclade
%
Crepes dentelles with
apples and caramel

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 65
W
hen I was 16 I started to keep a menu book,
a school exercise book I’d carefully covered in
wrapping paper. This was an odd obsession
because I didn’t cook the majority of the menus I created;
I would’ve needed a restaurant to get through them all.
The pleasure was in putting the menus together.
I still have the notebook. Most of the meals are simple:
cucumber salad with dill and soured cream, goulash,
baked autumn fruit, crudités (the kind I’d had in France),
poulet bonne femme, galette aux pommes. There are no
dishes from some of the cuisines I now love – the Middle
East or Vietnam, for example – and there are a few old-
fashioned, embarrassingly complicated menus I wouldn’t
dream of attempting these days: buckwheat blinis with
warm butter, soured cream and smoked salmon; guinea
fowl breasts in pastry with duxelles and madeira sauce;
Grand Marnier soufflé. I did actually cook this. Was I mad?
I gave my first ‘dinner party’ soon after I started keeping
my menu book. My school friends were bemused by the
candlelit room (I’d gone over the top). “Are we going to
celebrate Mass?” one asked but I continued, undaunted.
I loved ‘having people over’ but, even more, I loved putting
a menu together. It’s still my favourite bit of cooking. I don’t
issue invitations and then wonder what to cook – I come
up with a menu and wonder who would like to eat it.
Why did I decide to write a whole book of menus when
people can compose their own? Because I get asked more
questions about menus than anything else. Friday nights
and Saturday mornings bring endless phone calls and texts
from friends preparing meals for Saturday night who’ve
decided on a main course but don’t know what to have for
pudding, and everybody wants a quick starter. “Will these
dishes work together?” is something I’m frequently asked.
THE MENU RULES (OK)
There are some practical ‘rules’, though they’re open to
being bent, even completely broken. Ideally, no more than
two courses should be cooked at the last minute, otherwise
you’ll be stressed. (This rule can be dispensed with if you
are one of those cooks who can deep-fry while making
sparkling conversation with 12 people. I am not one of
those cooks.) A meal shouldn’t be too rich: cream should
only appear in one course (though you can always have it
with pudding). It’s not ideal to repeat ingredients. Consider
colour, texture and temperature and, it almost goes
without saying, eat seasonally.
My parents weren’t ‘foodies’ (thank God); we just ate
good food every day and had access to great ingredients
(I’m from Northern Ireland, where the beef, fish and dairy
are excellent). I learned to cook well. There were no grand
dinners but there were parties where the craic and the
whisky were as important as the food. Stuffed olives in the
fridge (fancy at the time) and the rich, woody tones of
Frank Sinatra filling the house meant good times.
A TASTE FOR ADVENTURE
We didn’t travel. With six of us it was unaffordable. When
we went on holidays to Dublin we’d go to the airport so we
could watch planes taking off. I always felt on the edge of
possibilities but I went places via books and cooking. How
to Eat a Peach started out as a book of menus but turned
into something more, into a book about how we dream of
places and experience ‘otherness’ through food, sometimes
in a way that is daunting and confusing. The book is as
much about place as it is about meals.
My first trip outside Ireland was to France. A homesick
15 year old, I went to stay with a family I’d never met to
improve my French. My counterpart, Clothilde, was a
wonderful cook and we spent every day planning meals. I
became obsessed with France – and with food – on that trip.
When I was in my 20s, while friends went backpacking
in Asia, I worked my way round every region of France
with Patricia Wells’ The Food Lover’s Guide to France as my
guide. Once I settled in London I went to the French
seaside every Easter. A trip to Normandy always meant
a meal at Les Vapeurs in Trouville (see overleaf).
I couldn’t afford the seafood platters in those days but
I was happy with mussels cooked in cider, enriched with
Normandy cream. Brittany meant buckwheat crêpes and
a wilder coastline. Lunch meant oysters and sourdough
from a stall on the roadside, supper a roll-your-sleeves-up
affair where you tucked into crevettes and crab claws. The
salty tang of seaweed and the aroma of caramelised sugar
– from mobile crêperies – hung in the air.
I’ve fallen for so many places through food, it sometimes
feels as if my life has been a series of affairs. I’ve always
been on the verge of moving and starting elsewhere. France
is special though, my first love. Let’s eat there.
Listen to our Extra Portions podcast with Diana via iTunes,
the Podcast app or deliciousmagazine.co.uk. And check out her
Instagram takeover on 27 April: instagram.com/deliciousmag
 book of the month.

Kir Breton • 1 scant tbsp white wine vinegar, or

SERVES 1
Kir is usually made with crème de
cassis and, traditionally, bourgogne
aligoté (a zesty white wine from
Burgundy), but kir Breton – and also
kir Normand – is made with cider.
Just put a splash of crème de cassis
in the bottom of a champagne glass,
then top up the glass with dry cider…
preferably one from Brittany or
Normandy, obviously.
PER SERVING 71kcals, no fat, no
protein, 4.9g carbs (4.9g sugars),
trace salt, no fibre
Leeks with Breton
vinaigrette
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
COOKING TIME 7-10 MIN, PLUS INFUSING
Leeks vinaigrette was one
of the dishes that made me fall
in love with French food; I ate it
on my first trip to France when
I went there on an exchange
trip. Most people make leeks
vinaigrette without a recipe,
but the dressing here, which
I tried while on holiday in
Brittany, goes beyond the
standard and is worth knowing.
I usually serve this with other
bits and pieces that make up
the typical French spread that
they describe (rather modestly)
as crudités: radishes, hard-
boiled eggs, charcuterie,
sometimes other vegetable
dishes such as carottes rapèes
(grated carrot salad) and lentilles
en salade (lentil salad).
Make the salad dressing
MAKE up to 1 week ahead and
AHEAD
keep in a sealed container
in the fridge.
FOOD
If you don’t have a steamer
TEAM’S put the leeks in a metal
TIPS
colander set over a pan of
boiling water and cover with a pan
PORTRAIT: CHRIS TERRY
to taste
• ¼ tsp dijon mustard, or to taste
• Pinch ground mixed spice
• 8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• Pinch caster sugar
• 1½ tbsp capers, rinsed and
patted dry
• ½ tbsp very finely chopped
shallots
• 1 tbsp finely chopped fresh
flatleaf parsley leaves
• ½ tbsp each finely chopped fresh
chervil leaves and chives
• 6 medium leeks
1 Make the vinaigrette by mixing the
white wine vinegar, dijon mustard
and mixed spice with some sea salt
flakes and ground black pepper in
a small bowl.
2 Whisk in the extra-virgin olive oil
using a fork. Add the sugar, capers,
shallots and herbs, then taste for
seasoning and balance (you might
need a little more vinegar or
mustard). It’s good to make this
about 30 minutes in advance so
the flavours can meld.
3 Remove and discard the tough
outer leaves from the leeks. Slice
off and discard the tufty bit on the
base of each leek and also the dark
green tops. Cut the leeks into 4cm
pieces. Wash them really well,
making sure that you get rid of any
grit or soil between the layers. Pork rillettes SUSY ATKINS’
WINE PICKS
Steam over boiling water – this way MAKES 1KG. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
The punchy leeks
the leeks don’t become too wet – for COOKING TIME 4 HOURS call for a bright,
4-6 minutes (see tips). They should fruity white such
be completely tender right through Homemade rillettes usually as a Loire Valley
chenin blanc.
(test with the tip of a sharp knife). taste better than ready-made A strawberryish
4 As soon as the leeks are done, (at least they do when you’re not beaujolais or dry
tip them onto a clean dish cloth and in France). They do take time cider are star
gently pat to soak up the excess (though not a lot of efort) and matches for the
rillettes, and
moisture; the vinaigrette will cling this should be an easy meal, so crisp whites such
to the leeks much better if they’re buy the rillettes if you prefer. as bordeaux
not wet. Immediately put them in To render pork fat, cut the fat sauvignon blanc
or muscadet are
a serving bowl and, while they’re into cubes, melt it in a heavy- always a hit with
still hot, dress them with the based saucepan over a low heat, mouclade. For
vinaigrette. Taste to check the then strain the resulting liquid the crepes,
seasoning, then serve warm or fat through a sieve. a strong, sweet
beaumes de

lid. Put over a medium heat and
steam the leeks – the time will vary
depending on their size. Large leeks
may take an extra 2-3 minutes to
become completely tender.
at room temperature.
PER SERVING 260kcals, 23.1g fat
(3.4g saturated), 3.5g protein,
6.3g carbs (4.7g sugars), 0.3g salt,
6.2g fibre
venise is the
When well sealed with a winning sip.
MAKE layer of fat in sterilised jars,
AHEAD
you can keep this in the
fridge for up to 4 months. Make →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 67

DIANA’S INSPIRING PLACES
WHERE New York City
WHY All is here, from tiny off-the-beaten-track
finds to glitzy tables. Breakfasts of bagels and lox
at Russ and Daughters on the Lower East Side,
a late lunch at Via Carota in the West Village (one
of my favourite Italian restaurants), cocktails
and oysters at Maison Premiere in Brooklyn and
dinner at Estela, north of Little Italy – all musts.
WHERE Piedmont, Italy
WHY You can smell the white truffles before you
see them. I want them on tajarin, the pasta of the
region, and in fonduta, Piedmont’s egg-enriched
version of fondue. Late Sunday afternoons are
for sitting outside bars sipping dolcetto as it gets
dark. Never forget to bring home hazelnuts.
WHERE Oaxaca, Mexico
WHY Fermented pineapple to drink, chipolines
(hot, garlicky dried grasshoppers) to snack on,
a thousand different dried chillies in the market
and the smell of scorched corn everywhere.
WHERE Istanbul, Turkey
WHY Revel in breakfast – salty white cheese,
taut vegetables, yogurt, honey, melon, olives and
flatbread – then spend the day following your
nose for what to eat on the hop: a warm
sandwich of griddled mackerel, rose-scented ice
cream, mulberry juice and baklava…
WHERE Brittany and Normandy
WHY A feast of shellfish: oysters and sourdough
at roadside stalls, towers of fruits de mer on ice
in art deco brasseries (such as Les Vapeurs in
Trouville), plus calvados, crepes and cider.
WHERE Catalonia
WHY Intense, surprising platefuls: rice black
with squid ink (arroz negro), stuffed rabbit with
a garlic mayo made with quince purée, sautés
thickened with pounded toasted bread, garlic,
herbs, anisette, and ice cream based on crema
catalana (the region’s version of crème brulée).
sure there are no air pockets in the
mixture and that the fat completely
covers the top, then keep covered.
Once you’ve broken the protective
layer of fat, eat within 5 days.
This recipe makes more than
DIANA’S you need; half the quantity
TIP
will feed 4 people. Halve the
quantities if you prefer, but it’s better
to make rillettes in large quantities,
otherwise it tends to get kind of dry
while cooking, so I’d recommend
making this larger amount.
68 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• 500g boneless British free-range
pork shoulder
• 500g boneless British free-range
pork belly, rind removed
• 350g rendered pork fat (see
recipe introduction; find pork fat
at good butchers), or good quality
store-bought lard
• 6 fresh thyme sprigs
• 3 bay leaves
• 4 cloves
• Generous pinch ground mixed spice
• Generous grating nutmeg
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Piece of muslin or new J-cloth
• Sterilised jars if you’re intending
to keep the rillettes for longer
than a week (see delicious
magazine.co.uk/sterilise-jars)
1 Cut the pork shoulder into strips
about 2cm across, along the grain of
the meat. Cut the belly into slices
about 1cm thick. Put the rendered
pork fat and 100ml water into a
broad, heavy-based saucepan and
set it over a very low heat. Add all
the meat. Tie the thyme, bay leaves
and cloves in the square of muslin
(or new J-cloth) and add to the pan.
Cook over a very low heat so the
liquid just quivers, not bubbles, for
about 4 hours. The meat shouldn’t
brown, just poach, and must always
be covered with fat. Make sure
it doesn’t stick to the base of the
pan and turn it over from time to
time. It’s ready when it is completely
tender and feels as if you can pull
it apart.
2 Once the meat has cooled a bit,
remove the spice and herb bag and
shred the meat in the pan, pulling it
apart with 2 forks. It should break
down into rough, soft strands. Strain
the meat through a colander over a
bowl to collect the fat. Put the meat
into another bowl and add the mixed
spice, nutmeg, and some salt and
pepper; be generous, you need to
season well to make good rillettes.
Stir in enough of the strained off
fat to give it a creamy texture, then
reserve the rest.
3 Put the mixture into bowls (or pack
into sterilised jars), eliminating any
air pockets. If you’re not eating
immediately, cover with greaseproof
paper that you’ve rubbed with
reserved pork fat and let it cool
completely; it will firm up a bit.
4 Melt some of the reserved pork fat
in a pan, then pour a 5mm layer
over the tops of the rillettes to form
a seal. Put the papers back on top
and put in the fridge (see Make
Ahead). The rillettes taste better
after a couple of days, though
I tend to eat some right away.
PER 100G SERVING 423kcals,
39.2g fat (15.2g saturated),
17g protein, 0.5g carbs (no sugars),
0.9g salt, no fibre
Mouclade
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN,
PLUS STEEPING
Mouclade is eaten in and
around La Rochelle, on the
west coast of France. There are
diferent versions, but the
characteristic ingredient is
curry powder. The dish, when
you include safron as well, has
a lovely golden colour.
• Good pinch saffron threads
• 2kg mussels
• 30g unsalted butter
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• ¾ tsp medium curry powder
• 4 tbsp brandy
• 2 tsp plain flour
• 200ml dry white wine
• 200ml double cream
• Generous handful fresh flatleaf
parsley leaves, finely chopped
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Piece of muslin or new J-Cloth
1 Put the saffron in a small
heatproof bowl and cover with
80ml boiling water. Leave to steep
for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, clean
the mussels, removing any beards
(fine threads) and barnacles (scrape
the latter off with a table knife) and
washing the shells. Tap each against
the sink as you go and discard any
that are open and don’t close. →
 book of the month.

“I don’t issue invitations and then wonder

what to cook – I come up with a menu and
wonder who would like to eat it”

Mouclade
 2 Melt the butter in a pan and gently
sauté the onion until soft but not
coloured. Add the garlic and curry
powder and cook for another
2 minutes to release the curry
powder’s fragrance. Add the brandy
GET THE
BOOK, FREE! and let it boil until it has reduced to
These recipes are a couple of tablespoons. Reduce the
from How to Eat heat, then stir in the flour, mixing well
a Peach by Diana until everything is smooth. Cook for
Henry (£25;
Mitchell Beazley), a minute, then take the pan off the
out on 5 April. heat and gradually add the saffron
Take advantage and its water, stirring. Set aside.
of this month’s 3 Put the wine and mussels in a
subscription offer
(see p78) and large saucepan and cover with a lid.
receive a copy of Cook over a medium-high heat for
Diana’s wonderful about 4 minutes, shaking the pan
new book.
from time to time, until the mussels
have opened. Strain the mussels
over a bowl (use a large colander),
collecting their liquor in the bowl.
Discard any mussels that haven’t
opened and put the rest back into
the saucepan. Cover to keep warm.
4 Strain the cooking liquor through
a sieve lined with muslin, or a new
J-cloth (you need to get rid of any
sand or grit), and gently reheat the
saffron sauce you were making
earlier. Gradually add the mussel
liquor, stirring as you do so, then
bring the sauce to a boil and simmer
for about 3 minutes. Add the cream
and simmer for a further 4 minutes
until it has reduced and the sauce is
a little thicker. Taste for seasoning
and stir in the parsley.
5 Put the mussels in a large warmed
serving bowl or keep them in the
saucepan in which they were cooked,
if you prefer. Pour the sauce over
them and serve immediately.
PER SERVING 542kcals, 36.2g fat
(21.1g saturated), 26.8g protein,
5.7g carbs (2.9g sugars), 1.1g salt,
1.3g fibre
Crepes dentelles with
apples and caramel
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN,
PLUS 1 HOUR RESTING
The word ‘dentelles’ means
lace and refers to the fine,
delicate edges of these crepes.
Making them well requires a few
tricks, though they’re very easy
70 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
to master: quickly tilt the pan
after adding the batter so it
thinly coats the bottom; pour of
the excess every time you add
more batter; adjust the heat as
necessary; and be careful not to
add too much butter. You need a
well-seasoned pan that’s become
non-stick through wear, or a good
non-stick pan. The first pancake
is always a dud, so don’t worry.
I was taught to make these by
my first French boyfriend.
He was called Christophe. I was
15. So for me this is more than
simply a recipe.
You can make the batter up
MAKE to 48 hours ahead, then
AHEAD
cover and chill, or freeze
it in a sealed container for up to
1 month. Fully defrost before using in
this recipe. The caramel sauce will
keep in a sealed container in the
fridge for 1 week. Scrape into a pan
and gently reheat to serve.
This makes a generous
FOOD
TEAM’S quantity of batter. Freeze
TIP
any leftovers as above and
use another time.
• 125g plain flour
• 30g caster sugar
• 300ml whole milk
• 1 medium free-range egg,
plus 1 egg yolk
• 30g unsalted butter, melted, plus
more to cook the pancakes
• Crème fraîche to serve
FOR THE CARAMEL
• 50g unsalted butter
• 125ml double cream
• 100g soft light brown sugar
• ½ tsp sea salt flakes
• ¼ tsp vanilla extract
FOR THE APPLES
• 2 tart apples, peeled, halved
and cored
• 50g unsalted butter
• 1 tbsp caster sugar
1 Sift the flour, sugar and a pinch of
salt into a large bowl and make a
well in the centre. In a jug, whisk the
milk, egg and egg yolk with 100ml
water and gradually whisk into the
well until smooth. Stir in the 30g
melted butter, cover with cling film
and rest for 1 hour. (Or make this in
a blender: whizz the ingredients for
1 minute, scrape down the sides and
blend for another 5 seconds.)
2 Meanwhile, to make the caramel,
put the 50g butter in a large pan (the
sauce will bubble a lot) and melt it
over a medium heat. Add the cream,
sugar and salt and bring to a boil,
stirring to help dissolve the sugar.
Reduce the heat and simmer for
10 minutes, whisking from time to
time. Add the vanilla. Set aside.
3 Cut the apples into thin wedges,
about 5mm at the thickest part.
Heat the 50g butter in a large
frying pan – you don’t want to
crowd the pan or the apples will
steam instead of fry. Cook the
apples on both sides until golden
(they can still be firm in the middle).
Sprinkle with the caster sugar and
cook over a medium heat until lightly
caramelised (about 3 minutes). Lay
the apples on a plate in a single
layer; if they’re on top of each other
they’ll continue to cook and can lose
their sugar-toasted edges.
4 Melt a very small knob of butter in
a well-seasoned or non-stick frying
pan and swirl it to coat the pan.
Ladle in batter (see Diana’s recipe
introduction) – again just enough to
thinly coat – quickly swirl around the
pan, then pour off any excess (these
crepes need to be really thin). Cook
over a medium heat until golden
underneath, then flip using a metal
spatula and fry on the other side.
Add as small an amount of butter as
needed, but never too much. If the
pan gets too hot and you burn the
butter, wipe it out and start again.
Keep the pancakes in a pile in a low
oven until you’ve cooked them all.
5 Serve the pancakes with the
cooked apples and caramel sauce
(if you’ve made the sauce in
advance, gently reheat it, if you
like) and crème fraîche.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 518kcals,
33.2g fat (20.1g saturated), 6.3g
protein, 47.8g carbs (31.9g sugars),
0.5g salt, 1.4g fibre
 book of the month.

Crepes dentelles
with apples and
caramel
 THE DIG-IN
FRIDAY NIGHT SUPPER
When James Martin headed Stateside for his new book and TV series, he set out to show
us all how great the country’s food is and the good ol’ US of A didn’t disappoint. This
larger-than-life Texan recipe is the pinnacle of crowdpleasers – an ideal end-of-week treat

YOU’LL ALSO NEED…

Forget politics – it’s the people that make America
• Large frying/sauté pan or shallow
great. The folks I met on my journey couldn’t have been
flameproof casserole that fits
more friendly and the produce couldn’t have been better
under the grill
to cook with. For that, America, I want to thank you for
one of the best trips of my life and for allowing me (I hope)
1 To make the sauce: heat the oil in
to help to change people’s perception of Stateside food.
the pan/casserole and fry the onion
I came back to the UK thinking, sure, they have some odd
and garlic for a few minutes. Stir
things to eat over there but they also have some of the best
in the diced peppers, then add the
food in the world. And if you make a trip to the USA
fresh and tinned tomatoes, coffee,
following the same rule I did – never eat anything
brown sugar, treacle, tomato
bigger than your head – you’ll come back only a
ketchup, vinegar (or Worcestershire
few pounds heavier than when you left, with
sauce), chilli, oregano, star anise,
your opinion of US food changed forever.
smoked paprika and kidney beans.
Bring to the boil, then turn down the
heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
2 Put the beef mince in a large bowl.
Add the breadcrumbs, egg, egg
yolk and mustard, and season well
with salt and pepper. Mix everything
Cheesy Texas meatballs • 1 tbsp dijon mustard together thoroughly. Divide the
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN • 200g cheddar, finely grated mixture into 12 equal portions, then
shape into balls using your hands.
Make the meatballs and FOR THE SAUCE 3 Remove and discard the star anise
MAKE sauce 2-3 days ahead and • 2 tbsp olive oil from the sauce, then taste and adjust
AHEAD
keep in separate, covered • 1 onion, finely chopped the seasoning. Drop the meatballs
containers in the fridge. Reheat the • 8 garlic cloves, crushed into the sauce and simmer gently for
sauce, then add the meatballs and • 2 red peppers, diced 5-10 minutes, turning occasionally.
cook as in the recipe, adding a little • 6 tomatoes, quartered 4 Heat the grill to medium-high. PHOTOGRAPHS: PETER CASSIDY. STYLING: REBECCA NEWPORT
READER extra cooking time if you’re cooking • 400g tin chopped tomatoes Once the meatballs are cooked,
OFFER the meatballs from fridge-cold. • 400ml black coffee (not instant) sprinkle a small pile of the grated
This recipe is from You could reduce the sugar • 4 tbsp dark brown sugar cheese over each meatball and
James Martin’s FOOD
TEAM’S if you wish (and use less • 2 tsp black treacle grill for a couple of minutes until
American TIP
Adventure: 80 chilli if you don’t like spicy • 100ml tomato ketchup bubbling and golden. Serve the rest
Classic American food). These are large American- • 4 tbsp red wine vinegar or 2 tbsp of the grated cheese on the side.
Recipes (£25; size meatballs – if you prefer you Worcestershire sauce PER SERVING 593kcals, 25.8g fat
Quadrille). You can
buy a copy at the could roll 24 smaller balls. • 1 red chilli, sliced (11.8g saturated), 51.3g protein,
special price of • 1 tsp dried oregano 34.8g carbs (24.5g sugars), 1.77g
£20 including free • 1kg lean beef mince • 3 star anise salt, 7.8g fibre
P&P. To order,
• 2 tbsp panko breadcrumbs • 2 tsp smoked paprika WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Californian
please call 01256
302699 quoting the • 1 medium free-range egg, plus • 400g tin kidney beans, or Chilean cabernet sauvignon, or
code PH1. 1 yolk drained a cool, refreshing bottled lager.

72 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
favourites.
 TASTES LIKE HOME
“Food was a way
to remember home
and culture”
Inspired by her father’s kitchen tales of decades past and drawn to
far-flung family members, journalist Kemi Bamgbose traces the trail of her
dad’s much-loved dishes – from London to their roots in West Africa and Brazil
M
y most vivid childhood
memories are of time
spent with my dad in my
family’s kitchen in south London.
Dad was Nigerian with Afro-
Brazilian roots and moved to the
UK more than 30 years ago. He was
a keen cook and, as we helped him
sift through piles of black-eyed
beans, getting rid of any cracked or
shrivelled ones, he’d tell us stories
about Nigeria, bringing to life the
Lagos of his youth.
Both sides of his family (the
Alakijas and Bamgboses) were
prominent ‘returnees’, the name
given to families who’d left Brazil
and gone back to Nigeria when
slavery was abolished in Brazil in
1888. Many continued to travel
between West Africa and Brazil,
with a small contingent settling
permanently in Salvador de Bahia
on the northeastern coast of Brazil.
Dad used to cook dishes such as
frejon, a coconut and black-eyed
bean soup eaten at Easter among
descendants of returnee families.
He’d also make moin moin, a bean
cake steamed in banana leaves, and
jollof beans, cooked in a rich tomato
sauce (see recipe, p76).
He told us about the colourful
costumes and dancing at the annual
carnival in Lagos, set up by returnee
families as a way of remembering
their ancestors and the end of
slavery. It seemed faraway and
exotic compared to London. It was
only years later that I made the
connection between Dad’s
reminiscences and our careful
culinary preparations: black-eyed
beans are the base of many a dish
in Nigeria and Brazil; they’re an
edible link between continents and
people, past and present.
Inspired by Dad’s stories, last year
I fulfilled a long-held dream and
travelled to Salvador de Bahia to
meet distant family members – and
food was at the heart of my journey.
For many enslaved West Africans,
food was a way to remember home
and their culture, and it was also
important in some religious
practices. Every aspect of Salvador
reminded me so much of Lagos, a
place I’d visited, from the people to
the music, the arts and culture to
the Portuguese-influenced colonial-
style architecture. But most striking
of all was the similarity in cuisine.
On my first night in Salvador
I walked along the pier and caught
the familiar pungent scent of palm
oil on the sea breeze. Following my
nose, I found my first taste of home,
an acarajé stall. Acarajé (akara in
Yoruba) was brought to Brazil by
enslaved West Africans and is now
a popular street food typically sold
by Baianas, black women who dress
in white, lace-trimmed clothing
with colourful head wraps, who
have since become an important
cultural symbol of Bahia’s rich
West African heritage.
The mashed black-eyed bean
cakes are fried in a calorific vat of
dende (palm oil), with sliced onion
to add flavour. The cooked cakes are
cut in half and filled with shrimp,
okra or vatapa, a spicy paste, and
accompanied by salad. Acarajé plays
an important role in the Afro-
Brazilian religion Candomblé,
where bean cakes are offered to the
Orishas, a pantheon of deities
 food memories.

g


g

originating from the Nigerian

Yoruba tradition. Acarajé is still
culturally significant in Yoruba
culture today: it is cooked and eaten
40 days after the death or burial of
a loved one – a custom we observed
in honour of my dad.
The highlights of my trip centred
around food and my dad’s family.
The Alakijas are a big family who
live in two adjacent apartments. My
Aunty Geonalda lives in one with
her family, and her mother, 95 years
of age and as sharp as a razor, lives FROM TOP Old Town,
next door. Their lovingly made, Salvador, Brazil; acarajé
and the Baianas who sell it;
warm-hearted welcome feast Kemi with Aunty Geonalda
included okra stew; spiced shrimp; and her aunty’s mum;
fried plantain; acarajé; black-eyed typical Afro-Brazilian food
beans in palm oil; and chicken OPPOSITE Kemi with her dad

stew. I knew the names of all these

typical Bahian dishes and I was
stunned at how similar they were
to the Nigerian food I was used to.
I also met members of the
Bamgbose family, including my
distant cousin Susana who is the
great, great, great, granddaughter of
Bamboxê Obitiko, once a leading
figure in the Candomblé tradition.
Spending time with distant
relatives was a dream come true.
I know my dad would have loved
every aspect of the trip, particularly
the food. I can’t wait to visit my
distant relatives again and enjoy
a little taste of Nigeria in Brazil. Turn the page for Kemi’s jollof beans recipe →
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 75
food memories.
Jollof beans (black-eyed
beans in tomato sauce)
SERVES 4. HANDS ON TIME 15 MIN,
SIMMERING TIME 1 HOUR 40 MIN, PLUS
OVERNIGHT SOAKING AND RESTING
Make the beans up to 3 days
MAKE ahead and keep covered in
AHEAD
the fridge. Reheat until
piping hot throughout to serve.
Traditionally this recipe is
KEMI’S made with dried crayfish,
TIP
but as this is hard to find
(unless you live near an African or
Caribbean shop), non-vegans could
add a pack of chopped smoked
mackerel fillets at the end of the
cooking time and heat through.
7 deliciousmagaz
zine.co.uk
FOOD
To save time you could use a
TEAM’S 400g tin black-eyed beans.
TIP
Drain and rinse under cold
water, then start from step 3.
• 250g dried black-eyed beans
• 400g tin tomatoes
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 red pepper, roughly chopped
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 1 tsp ground ginger
• ½ scotch bonnet chilli, deseeded
• Sunflower or olive oil for frying
• ½-1 tsp Dunn’s River All Purpose
Seasoning
• 1-2 tsp Maggi Liquid Seasoning
• Handful freshly chopped parsley
• Handful chopped fresh coriander
• Squeeze lime juice (optional)
• Cooked rice, bread, couscous or
fried plantain to serve
1 Pick through the black-eyed beans
and discard any stones or cracked
beans. Put in a bowl with plenty of
cold water and soak overnight.
2 The next day, rinse the beans and
drain, then put in a pan, cover with
cold water and cook, covered, over a
medium heat for 60-75 minutes until
tender. Top up the water in the pan if
necessary. Don’t add salt as it will
harden the beans.
3 Once the beans are soft and
cooked, drain and put in a bowl.
Season with a little salt and, using a
potato masher, mash the beans
slightly, so they’ll absorb more of the
flavour from the sauce.
4 Meanwhile, make the tomato
sauce. In a food processor/blender,
whizz the tomatoes, half the chopped
onion, the red pepper, garlic, ginger
and scotch bonnet to a paste.
FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. FOOD STYLING: ROSIE RAMSDEN. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE. ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTYIMAGES
5 Heat a large saucepan with a glug
of oil. When the oil is hot, add the
remaining chopped onion to the pan
and soften over a low-medium heat
for 5 minutes. Pour in the blended
tomato mixture, cover and cook on a
low heat for 10-15 minutes.
6 Stir in the crushed beans, then
season to taste with ½-1 tsp of the
all purpose seasoning and 1-2 tsp
Maggi liquid seasoning. If the sauce
is a little thick in consistency, add
a splash of water to thin. Stir well,
then cover the pot and simmer the
beans for another 15-20 minutes,
stirring occasionally to make sure
the beans are covered in sauce and
the mixture doesn’t look dry (add
a splash of water if it does).
7 Once the beans are cooked, let
them rest in the pan for an hour or
more, so the flavours can settle.
Warm the beans through and stir in
the chopped parsley and coriander.
Add a squeeze of lime juice, if you
like, and serve with rice, bread,
couscous or plantain as you wish.
PER SERVING 321kcals, 6.9g fat
(1g saturated), 17.2g protein,
42.4g carbs (10g sugars), 0.8g salt,
10.1g fibre

CHEERS!
Susy Atkins rounds up best buys and premium gins
GR AB A BARGAIN
• Majestic Loves Grüner
Veltliner 2016, Hungary
(£6.99, or £5.99 as part
of a mixed six, Majestic)
Refreshing, citrussy
Hungarian take on this
famous grape. Good with
scallops, plaice or sole.
• The Bees Knees
Sparkling Rosé, Germany
(£3.49, Morrisons; £3.99
Ocado, Booths, Adnams)
This new alcohol-free
SPLASH OUT
• Bouchard Père & Fils
La Vignée Chardonnay
2014, Burgundy, France
(£13.99, independents
including Penistone Wine
Cellars and Sandhams
PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
Wine Merchants) Modern
fresh white Burgundy par
excellence. It’s all apples
and clementines – perfect
with salmon steaks.
• Iona One Man Band
2013, Elgin, South Africa
sparkler is made with
grape juice and green tea.
It’s surprisingly good; not
too sweet, with red berry
flavour and lively froth.
• Extra Special Marques
del Norte Rioja Reserva
2013, Spain (£6.98 or 3
for 2 until 11 April, Asda)
A keenly priced rioja with
a whack of vanilla-tinged
oak, plus strawberry and
cherry. Great with lamb.
FRIDAY SPECIAL
• Mártisor Pinot Grigio
2017, Romania (£7.49,
Waitrose) Bright, sunny
white that’s fruitier than
most Italian PGs (think
lemon and pineapple).
A lip-smacking aperitif
for a fine spring evening.
• Gaston de Veau Syrah
2016, Languedoc, France
(£8.50, Marks & Spencer)
Smooth, rounded and
super-ripe, with oodles of
blackberries and a black
(£16, Marks & Spencer)
Broad-shouldered blend
with syrah and cabernet
sauvignon. Chunky cassis
and ripe redcurrant. Ideal
with lamb tagine.
• Moët & Chandon Rosé
Impérial Champagne,
Brut NV, France (from
£32, Tesco, Sainsbury’s
and others) Fine rosé fizz
with raspberry and cherry
notes and a dry finish.
drinks.
WHAT’S HOT
Trend-setting gins
T
he boom in premium
gin shows no sign
of waning. Big right
now are those that major
on floral botanicals or spicy
infusions and there’s a new
trend for cask-aged gins; pricey
bottles, but at their best
complex and subtle. Perfect for
adding a new dimension to our
favourite white spirit enjoyed
with tonic – and in cocktails.
The Old Curiosity Chamomile
pepper twist. One for & Cornflower Secret Garden
spicy red meats. Gin (£42/50cl, Harvey Nichols)
• Taste the Difference is the best of the new floral
River Block Sauvignon gins, with light notes of grass
Blanc 2017, Marlborough, and sweet hay meadows.
New Zealand (£9, Martin Miller’s 9 Moons
Sainsbury’s) Dazzling, Barrel Rested Gin (£45.75/35cl,
delectable NZ sauvignon Wine Rack, Whisky Exchange,
blanc, finely balanced Master of Malt) is a pale gold
with tongue-tingling cask-aged gin with a well
notes of passion fruit, judged and balanced hint
gooseberry and lime. of oaky spice.
Fab with asparagus and For something sweeter, try
hollandaise sauce. Gin Bothy Gunshot Infused Gin
(£38/70cl ginbothy.co.uk;
£39.99 Master of Malt), a rich
gin liqueur infused with
cinnamon and clove. Sip it neat.
CUTTING IT FINE
Efficient yet inexpensive
wine gadgets are rare
finds but this soft-grip
foil cutter is swift to
remove stubborn (and
annoying) plastic or
metal wine capsules.
Put down that knife!
John Lewis Wine Bottle
Foil Cutter, £3.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 77
 FREE!
How to Eat a Peach
By Diana Henry

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FIND MORE GRILLS & RECIPES AT GEORGEFOREMAN.CO.UK
AVAILABLE AT MOST MAJOR RETAILERS. MODEL SHOWN: Family Evolve Grill

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 EAT WELL
FOR LIFE
N O FA D S , N O U N R E A L I ST I C H E A LT H C L A I M S… J U ST 2 0 I N S P I R I N G PA G E S
O F H O N E ST, N U T R I T I O U S , G O O D - F O R -YO U R E C I P E S , I N F O A N D I D E A S

TAKE A PACK p92

Four simple, speedy and flavour-packed
recipes made using a tub of cream cheese

QUICK FIX MEAL p88

A wholesome, spicy bowlful for
one that’s ready in 20 minutes

HEALTHY MAKEOVER p100

Our lighter cottage pie reduces the fat and
calories but keeps all the comforting taste

MIDWEEK… p82
Make it easier with five great
dishes that rely on the freezer

TURN THE PAGE FOR THE RECIPES →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 81
 MIDWEEK MEALS

FRESH FROM
THE FREEZER
Stashing away a few shortcut ingredients in the freezer makes
WEEKNIGHT
light – yet still flavourful – work of weeknight cooking
PROMISE
Your guarantee for every recipe
in this feature: NO MORE THAN…
• 10 ingredients (not including oil)
• 30 minutes hands-on time
• 650 calories per portion (but
most recipes have fewer)
• 10g sat fat per portion
PLUS…
• No unnecessary
+ STAR + added sugar
INGREDIENTS
'JTI àOHFST
&EBNBNF
$IPQQFE
DIJMMJ

RECIPES ROSIE RAMSDEN PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW BURTON

FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL STYLING SARAH BIRKS
 eat well for life.

Fish finger kimchi rice Mackerel with potato hash 1 Heat the grill to medium. Put the
with edamame and SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, mackerel fillets on the grill tray
a fried egg GRILL TIME 10 MIN skin-side up, drizzle over 1 tbsp oil and
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN season well with salt and pepper. Grill
TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 15 MIN If you’re feeling hungry cook for 10 minutes until just cooked.
FOOD
TEAM’S 6 mackerel fillets and a few 2 Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tbsp
TIP
If you can’t find kimchi, extra potatoes. oil in a large frying pan and fry the
FOOD
TEAM’S use sauerkraut and add Swap mackerel for other shallots until softened and golden.
TIP NEXT
chilli sauce or sriracha. TIME frozen fish. Look out for Add the potatoes and turn up the
sustainable sea bass fillets. heat, tossing the potatoes and
• 8 frozen sustainable shallots to brown slightly (they
fish fingers • 4 frozen sustainable mackerel should start to break down a little).
• 350g basmati rice fillets, defrosted 3 Add the petits pois and lemon juice,
• Olive or vegetable oil for frying • 2 tbsp olive oil then toss through to cook gently.
• 4 free-range eggs • 150g frozen chopped shallots Stir in the chopped herbs and the
• 280g frozen edamame (soy • 10 frozen roast potatoes, defrosted lemon zest, then season with salt and
beans) and roughly chopped pepper. Divide among 4 plates, then
• 1 tsp black sesame seeds • 50g frozen petits pois top each with a mackerel fillet and
• 4 heaped tbsp kimchi or to taste, • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon generous dollops of yogurt. Scatter
plus extra to serve (see tip) • 25g fresh flatleaf parsley, chopped over extra dill to serve.
• Pinch frozen chopped jalapeño • 25g fresh dill, chopped, plus PER SERVING 575kcals, 33.5g fat (5.9g
chilli or dried chilli flakes extra to serve saturated), 19.9g protein, 47.4g carbs
• Fresh coriander leaves to serve • Greek yogurt to serve (2g sugars), 0.8g salt, 2g fibre →
• Brown rice vinegar (we used
Clearspring Organic Brown Rice
Vinegar, from Ocado) or
ordinary rice vinegar to serve + STAR +
INGREDIENTS
1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C .BDLFSFM
àMMFUT

fan/gas 7. Put the frozen fish
3PBTU
QPUBUPFT

1FUJUT
QPJT
fingers on a baking tray and bake 4IBMMPUT
for 15-20 minutes, turning
halfway, until golden brown.
2 Meanwhile, put the rice in a
medium pan, pour over 600ml
cold water and bring to the boil.
Cover with a lid, then reduce the
heat to a gentle simmer. Cook for
15 minutes, then take off the heat
(still covered) and set aside while
you cook the eggs.
3 Heat a good glug of oil in
non-stick frying pan over a
medium-high heat and fry 4 eggs
for 2 minutes or until the whites
have set and are crisp at the edges.
4 Stir the edamame, sesame
seeds and kimchi into the hot rice
and roughly slice the fish fingers.
Serve the rice with the eggs and
fish fingers, sprinkled with chilli
and coriander. Serve with rice
vinegar to season.
PER SERVING 570kcals, 19.5g fat
(3.5g saturated), 23.6g protein,
74.9g carbs (2.3g sugars), 0.8g salt,
5g fibre

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 83
 Butternut squash and
+ STAR + cauliflower laksa with
INGREDIENTS rice noodles
Frozen veg SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME
(butternut squash 15-20 MIN

DBVMJáPXFS
Keep any leftover laksa, covered,
FOOD
TEAM’S in the fridge for up to 3 days.
TIP
If you’re not vegetarian, try adding
a little fish sauce to the broth in step 2.
Vary the vegetables to suit what
NEXT you have. Frozen stir-fry mixes are
TIME
worth stocking up on (choose one
with sliced mushrooms and peppers).
• 1 banana shallot, halved
• ½ green chilli (plus extra, sliced, to
serve if you like)
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 large piece fresh ginger, chopped, plus
extra, sliced into matchsticks, to serve
• 1 heaped tbsp lemongrass paste from a
jar or tube (from the world food section
of large supermarkets)
• 2 tsp cold-pressed rapeseed oil
• 2 x 400ml tins half-fat coconut milk
• 6 fresh or dried lime leaves (optional)
• 500g frozen butternut squash
• 500g frozen cauliflower
• 250g wide brown rice noodles
• Handful fresh coriander leaves to serve
(optional)
1 In a mini food processor or blender,
whizz the shallot, chilli, garlic, chopped
ginger, lemongrass paste and a touch
of salt to make a paste. Put the oil and
a spoonful of the cream from the top of the
coconut milk tin in a wok or wide saucepan,
then add the whizzed paste and fry over
a medium heat until fragrant but not
golden. Season with salt and pepper.
2 Add the lime leaves (if using) and the rest
of the coconut milk to the pan, stir and bring
to a gentle simmer. Cook for 15-20 minutes
until the broth is well flavoured. Taste and
add salt if necessary. Add the frozen veg
for the last 5 minutes of cooking.
3 Meanwhile, cook the rice noodles in a pan
of boiling water for 5-6 minutes (or
according to the pack instructions), then
drain. Divide the noodles equally among
4 soup/ramen bowls and top with the laksa
broth and vegetables. Sprinkle with the
extra chilli (if using), ginger matchsticks
and coriander leaves, if you like.
PER SERVING 466kcals, 15.8g fat
(10g saturated), 15.1g protein, 63.1g carbs
(10.4g sugars), 1.3g salt, 5.3g fibre
10 TOP MIDWEEK
INGREDIENTS FOR
THE FREEZER
• Vegetables: peas/
broad beans/
sweetcorn/spinach
• Chopped shallots/
chillies/herbs
• Stocks and sauces
• Frozen prawns
• Sliced bread for toast
• Fish fillets
• Breadcrumbs
• Sausages
• Grated hard cheese
• Ready rolled
all-butter puff pastry

Lemon and garlic chicken
schnitzels with quick
puttanesca sauce
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 25 MIN
Breadcrumb the chicken and make
MAKE
AHEAD the pasta sauce up to 2 days
ahead. Cover and chill separately.
Unpitted black olives have a great
FOOD
TEAM’S flavour. If you want to use pitted
TIP
olives, go for green olives instead.
Swap chicken for defrosted large
NEXT sustainable frozen prawns. Coat in
TIME
the breadcrumbs and cook in the
oven for 10-15 minutes.
• 3-4 large frozen free-range skinless
chicken breasts, defrosted
• 50g plain flour
• 2 free-range eggs, beaten
• 70g frozen breadcrumbs
• Finely grated zest 1 lemon
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 x 400g tins cherry tomatoes
• 230g black olives (unpitted – see tip)
• 7 anchovy fillets from a jar or tin,
drained and roughly chopped
• Freshly chopped fresh flatleaf parsley
(optional) to serve
1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7.
Using a rolling pin, gently bash the chicken
breasts between two sheets of cling film
until flattened to 2.5cm thick. Set aside.
2 Put the flour, egg and breadcrumbs in
3 separate shallow bowls. Break up
the breadcrumbs to prevent lumps. Mix the
finely grated lemon zest and ½ tsp of the
crushed garlic into the flour and season
well with salt and pepper. First coat the
eat well for life.
+ STAR +
INGREDIENTS
Chicken breasts
Breadcrumbs
chicken breasts in the flour, then the egg
and finally the breadcrumbs, shaking off
any excess each time.
3 Put the chicken on a foil-lined baking
tray and drizzle with 1 tbsp oil. Bake for
25 minutes, turning halfway through. Rest
the chicken for 5 minutes before slicing.
4 Meanwhile, fry the remaining garlic
in the remaining oil in a pan over a low
heat for 2 minutes, then add the tomatoes,
olives and anchovies. Season well and
simmer briskly, stirring regularly, for
15 minutes (longer if you have time) until
reduced and flavourful.
5 Serve the chicken with the puttanesca
sauce, scatter with parsley (if using) and
cut the zested lemon into wedges to
squeeze over, if you like.
PER SERVING 565kcals, 24.5g fat
(3.7g saturated), 53.5g protein, 30.3g carbs
(8.2g sugars), 2.2g salt, 4.9g fibre →
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 85
eat well for life.
Sausage spaghetti with
spinach pesto
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
Swap the sausages for bacon
NEXT and the spinach in the pesto for
TIME
frozen, defrosted peas.
• 4 frozen free-range pork sausages,
defrosted
• 50ml olive oil
• 400g dried spaghetti
FOR THE PESTO
• 100g frozen spinach, defrosted, excess
water squeezed out
• 40g parmesan, freshly grated, plus
extra to serve
• 20g walnut halves, lightly toasted in
a dry frying pan
• ½ garlic clove, crushed or grated
• 4 anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained
• 25g bunch fresh basil
1 Remove the skins from the sausages
and fry the sausagemeat in a pan with
+ STAR +
INGREDIENTS
Sausages
Spinach
86 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
about 1 tbsp oil for 10 minutes, breaking it
up with the back of a wooden spoon and
stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp.
2 Cook the spaghetti in a large pan of
boiling salted water for 8 minutes or until al
dente (with bite). Drain, reserving a little
cooking water, then return the cooked
spaghetti to the warm pan.
3 Meanwhile, put the defrosted spinach in
a blender with the remaining oil and add
the rest of the pesto ingredients, reserving
a few basil leaves to serve. Season well
with salt and pepper and whizz to a paste,
adding a little reserved pasta water to
loosen if necessary. Toss the pesto through
the spaghetti and top with the sausage,
remaining basil and extra parmesan.
PER SERVING 649kcals, 27.8g fat
(7.8g saturated), 24.7g protein, 74.2g carbs
(3.3g sugars), 1.2g salt, 6.1g fibre
5 TOP FREEZER TIPS
1 Always name and date everything
you freeze, including the date when
it needs to be used by.
2 It’s easy to forget what’s in the
freezer so keep an inventory near it,
updating the list every time you add
or remove something.
3 Leave space in plastic containers
because food expands when frozen.
4 When freezing things such as
meatballs, open-freeze on a baking
tray first, then decant into food bags
(so they don’t stick together).
5 If you have leftover wine, freeze in
ice cube trays, then store in freezer
bags, ready to add to sauces.
 eat well for life.

THE BUDGET RECIPE

Jazz up a thrifty pack of chicken drumsticks with a tangy storecupboard marinade

Honey and mustard drizzle a little extra honey over Scatter with the parsley leaves and
baked chicken and rice the chicken and return to the oven. serve with extra lemon wedges for
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, Increase the oven temperature to squeezing over, if you like.
OVEN TIME 40-50 MIN 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7 and bake PER SERVING 697kcals, 21.9g fat
for 10-20 minutes more until the (4.7g saturated), 51.9g protein,
Marinate the chicken up to chicken is golden and cooked 70.8g carbs (10.5g sugars),
MAKE
AHEAD 24 hours in advance, cover through and the rice is tender. 1.6g salt, 4.2g fibre
and keep in the fridge until
ready to cook.
If you have any leftover
FOOD
TEAM’S vegetables to use up from
TIP
the fridge, just add with the FEED 4
rice and chicken in step 2. FOR LESS
THAN
• 2½ tbsp clear honey, plus extra £5.50
to drizzle
• 2½ tbsp wholegrain mustard
• Zest and juice 1 lemon, plus
wedges for squeezing (optional)
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 8 free-range, skin-on chicken
drumsticks (about 1kg)
• 300g basmati rice
• 2 leeks, sliced
• 500ml hot chicken stock (made
with a stock cube)
• Handful fresh parsley, leaves
picked

1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPH: ANDREW BURTON. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS

gas 6. Mix the honey, mustard,

lemon zest and juice and the oil in
a large mixing bowl, then season
with salt and pepper. Add the
chicken drumsticks and mix
thoroughly to coat in the marinade
(see Make Ahead).
2 Spread the rice in an even layer
over the base of a large shallow
roasting tin. Arrange the leeks
evenly over the rice and sit the
chicken drumsticks on top (see tip).
3 Pour some of the hot stock into the
mixing bowl, stirring it into any
remaining marinade, then pour into
the tin around the chicken along
with the remaining stock. Shake the
tin a little to help the rice and stock
combine evenly. Cover loosely with
foil and bake for 30 minutes.
4 After 30 minutes, remove the foil,

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 87
eat well for life.

THE QUICK-FIX MEAL

FOR ONE Don’t be tempted to reach for the ready-meal
this spicy, wholesome bowlful is ready in no time

20 Crispy tortilla rice bowl
SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
MINUTES
HANDS-ON FOOD
Substitute any same-size
ready-cooked rice or grain
TIME TEAM’S
TIP pouch for the Tilda one.
• 1 tbsp rapeseed oil
• 1 corn tortilla
• 50g roasted red peppers
from a jar, chopped
• 50g tinned sweetcorn
• ½ red onion, finely chopped
• Small bunch fresh coriander,
chopped
• Grated zest 1 lime and juice ½ lime
• ½ tsp smoked paprika
• 3 tbsp soured cream
• 140g pouch Tilda Pulses and Rice
(black bean, jerk and coconut –
see tip)
• ½ ripe avocado, sliced
1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan
over a medium heat. Cut the tortilla
in half, then into strips about 1cm
wide. Fry in the pan, turning once, for
3-4 minutes until golden and crisp.
Set aside on kitchen paper to drain.
2 Make a salsa by mixing the red
peppers, sweetcorn, onion, most of
the coriander and the lime juice in
a bowl, then season with salt and
pepper. In a separate small bowl,
stir the lime zest and paprika into
the soured cream.
3 Empty the pouch of pulses into a
serving bowl and mix in half the salsa
and half the tortilla strips. Top with
the sliced avocado and the rest of
the salsa and tortilla strips, then
drizzle over the spiced soured
cream and scatter with the
remaining coriander.
PER SERVING 722kcals, 43.6g fat
(12.4g saturated), 14.1g protein,
61.1g carbs (13.6g sugars), 1.1g salt,
14.9g fibre

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPHS: GARETH MORGANS. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS

88 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 eat well for life.

THE 5:2 RECIPE

Feel nourished on a fasting or lighter-eating day with this cheering bowlful

Prawn, vegetable and 15 minutes until the quinoa is tender.

quinoa broth
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
This makes enough for
MAKE
AHEAD 2 fasting days. The second
portion will keep for up
to 3 days, covered in the fridge.
For the second portion,
FOOD
TEAM’S liven things up by stirring
TIP
through finely chopped red
chilli, a handful of fresh coriander
and a splash of fish sauce.
RECIPE: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. FOOD STYLING: ROSIE RAMSDEN. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR
3 Stir in the prawns, spinach,
lemon zest and juice and most of
the parsley. Simmer for 2-3 minutes
more until the prawns are cooked
through and opaque. Taste, season
with salt and pepper, then serve
straightaway, sprinkled with the
remaining parsley.
PER SERVING 248kcals, 11.9g fat (3g
saturated), 18.8g protein, 15g carbs
(13g sugars), 0.5g salt, 6g fibre
ON NON-FASTING DAYS...
By nutritionist Amanda Ursell
Add a handful of small chunks
of butternut squash with the
onion and increase the amount
of quinoa to 80g, then serve with
a slice of crusty bread. This will
lift the calories to around 500
per serving.
Amanda is the nutrition editor of
our sister magazine Healthy
Food Guide

• 1 tsp rapeseed oil for frying

• 100g onion, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 35g quinoa
• 80g carrots, finely diced
• 1 litre fresh chicken or
vegetable stock
• 150g sustainable raw
shelled prawns
• 100g baby leaf spinach
• Grated zest and juice 1 lemon
• Bunch fresh flatleaf parsley,
roughly chopped

1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan

and gently fry the onion for
5 minutes until starting to
soften. Add the garlic, quinoa
and carrots, then gently fry for
5 minutes more, stirring.
2 Pour in the stock, turn up the
heat and bring to the boil, then
reduce the heat and simmer for

LESS THAN
250 CALORIES
PER SERVING

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 89
THE BATCH-COOK
RECIPE Make a big pot of this satisfying dhal and enjoy half now,
then freeze the rest ready to make a veggie curry later
The master recipe…
Lentil and kidney bean
dhal with fried lamb chops
SERVES 4 (DHAL SERVES 8). HANDS-ON TIME
30 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN
Make the dhal up to 3 days
MAKE in advance. Keep in a sealed
AHEAD
container in the fridge or
freeze (see box, below).
• Olive oil
• 3 leeks, finely sliced
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed
• 1 red chilli, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp garam masala
90 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• 500g red lentils
• 400ml tin reduced-fat
coconut milk
• 2 x 400g tins chopped tomatoes
• 400g tin kidney beans, drained
• 4 x British lamb chops
• Fresh coriander leaves and lime
wedges to serve
1 Heat a glug of oil in a large
heavy-based saucepan and fry the
leeks for 10 minutes until softening
and starting to caramelise. Add the
garlic, chilli and garam masala and
cook gently for 2-3 more minutes.
MAKE
DOUBLE AND
FREEZE
2 Add the lentils, give everything
a stir, then pour in the coconut
milk, chopped tomatoes and
1 litre cold water. Stir again.
3 Bring up to a simmer and cook
for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
When the lentils are almost tender,
stir in the kidney beans and season
with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon
half the dhal into a freezerproof
container and leave to cool before
freezing (see How to Freeze, below).
Leave the rest in the pan on a very
low heat while you cook the lamb.
4 Heat a non-stick frying pan until
smoking hot, season and lightly oil
the chops, then fry for 5 minutes,
turning once, until the chops are
crisp on the outside and the centres
are still rare. (For medium lamb
chops, turn down the heat slightly
and cook for a further 2-3 minutes
RECIPES: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPHS: STUART WEST. FOOD STYLING: ROSIE RAMSDEN. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR
on each side, depending on the
thickness of the lamb.)
5 Divide the dhal in the pan among
4 dishes, then top each with a hot
lamb chop. Scatter with coriander
leaves and serve with lime wedges
for squeezing over.
PER SERVING 583kcals, 20.3g fat
(9g saturated), 50.2g protein,
45.3g carbs (7g sugars), 0.3g salt,
9.4g fibre
HOW TO FREEZE
Cool the reserved batch of dhal
and freeze in a food bag or
freezerproof container,
labelled with the date, for up to
3 months. Defrost in the fridge,
then reheat to serve as in the
recipe or use to make our
spinach version, right.

Use the remaining dhal to make…
Spinach dhal with
roasted cauliflower
and squash
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
OVEN TIME 30 MIN
• 1 cauliflower, sliced into florets
• ½ butternut squash, chopped
into 2cm chunks
• 3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for
drizzling
• 1 tbsp caraway or cumin seeds
• 150g baby leaf spinach
• 2-3 tbsp full-fat greek yogurt
• Handful fresh flatleaf parsley,
roughly chopped
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C
fan/gas 6. Put the cauliflower and
squash on a roasting tray, drizzle
with oil and season with salt and
pepper. Roast for 30 minutes until
caramelised and golden.
2 Meanwhile, in a dry frying pan,
heat the caraway/cumin seeds
over a medium heat for a minute
or so until fragrant, then add the
3 tbsp oil and turn off the heat.
3 For the last 10 minutes of the
vegetable roasting time, warm the
dhal in a pan until steaming,
adding a little water to loosen. Stir
in the spinach and simmer gently
eat well for life.
for 5 minutes until wilted.
4 Check that the roast vegetables
are tender, then stir them through
the dhal (if they’re not quite ready,
roast for another 5 minutes and
keep the dhal warm). Serve each
portion topped with a generous
dollop of the yogurt, drizzled with
some of the caraway/cumin oil and
sprinkled with parsley. Serve extra
yogurt, drizzled with more of the
spiced oil, on the side if you like.
PER SERVING 556kcals, 18.5g fat
(5g saturated), 26.6g protein,
61.9g carbs (17.2g sugars), 0.2 salt,
17.3g fibre
 TAKE A PACK OF…

CREAM
CHEESE
Keep this versatile ingredient in your NEW
CHICKEN
fridge to create exciting weekday meals TRAYBAKE
Orange and tarragon chicken traybake
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 30 MIN

Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5. Mix a 180g pack of

full-fat cream cheese in a bowl with 2 tbsp chopped fresh
tarragon, the zest of ½ orange and a pinch of salt. Slice
4 free-range chicken breasts lengthways horizontally (don’t go
all the way through), then open out like a book. Divide the cream
cheese mix among the breasts, then fold over to seal. Take 4 slices
of parma ham and wrap one around each stuffed breast.
Toss 300g baby carrots and 200g baby leeks with the juice of
1 orange, 1 tbsp sherry vinegar, 1 tbsp honey, 1 tbsp wholegrain
mustard and seasoning in a roasting tray. Put the chicken on top,
brush with a little olive oil and roast for 30 minutes until the
chicken is cooked through. Serve with new potatoes, if you like.
PER SERVING 356kcals, 13.7g fat (7.6g saturated), 43.2g protein,
12.9g carbs (11.8g sugars), 1.3g salt, 4.2g fibre
Dip and salad sharing platter
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 8-10 MIN

Keep the dip in an airtight container in the

MAKE fridge for 1-2 days. The pitta chips will keep for
MIDDLE AHEAD

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPHS: FAITH MASON. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR
EASTERN 2 days in an airtight container.
FLAVOURS Replace the rose harissa with Belazu Verbena
FOOD
TEAM’S Harissa or Belazu Zhoug Spice Paste (from the
TIP
world food aisle of large supermarkets).

Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. Toss 300g

tenderstem broccoli on a baking tray with 1 tbsp olive
oil and 1 tsp sumac. Split 2 pitta breads in half, then cut
into triangles. Spread over a second baking tray, drizzle
with 1 tbsp olive oil and sprinkle with another 1 tsp
sumac. Put the broccoli in the top of the oven and
the pittas below, then roast for 8-10 minutes, turning
everything halfway through, until the broccoli is tender.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, stir 1 tsp rose harissa and
1 tbsp each chopped fresh mint and parsley into a 180g
pack of full-fat cream cheese to get a rippled effect.
Spoon the dip onto a serving board/platter and arrange
the pitta chips, roasted broccoli and 200g sliced radishes
on top. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle
with more sumac, chopped fresh mint and parsley.
PER SERVING 315kcals, 19.1g fat (7.9g saturated), 9.8g
protein, 23.7g carbs (5.2g sugars), 0.7g salt, 4.8g fibre
 eat well for life.

Creamy chorizo spaghetti with poached eggs UPDATED

SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
CLASSIC

In this take on a classic carbonara you can replace the chorizo

FOOD
TEAM’S with cubed pancetta or, if you like a spicy kick, drizzle over a
TIP
little chilli oil just before serving.

Bring 2 large pans of water to the boil. Cook 360g wholewheat

spaghetti in one pan of boiling water until just al dente (2 minutes less
than the pack cooking instructions), then drain, reserving 200ml of the
cooking water. Fry 120g diced chorizo in a frying pan until crisp, then
stir in a 180g pack of full-fat cream cheese, the cooked spaghetti and
reserved cooking water with a generous grind of black pepper. Toss
everything together over a medium heat until glossy (2-3 minutes).
Stir in a handful of chopped fresh parsley, some salt and black pepper.
Meanwhile, reduce the second pan of water to a simmer, swirl it
with a spoon and poach 4 medium free-range eggs for 3-4 minutes
until the whites are set and the yolks are still runny. Dry on kitchen
paper. Divide the spaghetti among 4 warmed serving bowls and top
each with a poached egg, black pepper and a little extra parsley.
PER SERVING 629kcals, 27.1g fat (12g saturated), 29.6g protein,
61.1g carbs (5.5g sugars), 1.9g salt, 11.2g fibre

W H AT
T O B U Y...
SMART We tested these
recipes using a 180g
SUPPER tub Philadelphia
Original Full Fat
Cream Cheese

Hot-smoked salmon and asparagus tart

SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, OVEN TIME 25 MIN

The tart can be made a few hours ahead and

MAKE
AHEAD served at room temperature or gently warmed
in a low oven for 10 minutes to serve.

Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Unroll

a 320g sheet of ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry
on its paper and put on a baking tray. Spoon a 180g pack
of full-fat cream cheese into a mixing bowl, stir a little
to soften, then gently stir in 4 tbsp good quality fresh
pesto and a pinch of sea salt flakes until well marbled.
Brush 100g fine asparagus spears with a little olive oil.
Using the tip of a small sharp knife, score a border
1.5cm from the edge of the pastry. Spread the cream
cheese mixture inside the border. Top with the
asparagus, 100g peas (defrosted if frozen) and bake on
the middle shelf of the oven for 20 minutes until the
edges of the tart are golden brown and puffed up.
Remove from the oven and flake over 150g
hot-smoked salmon, then return to the oven to bake for
a further 5 minutes. Top with a handful of watercress
and drizzle over a little extra pesto to serve.
PER SERVING 602kcals, 43.4g fat (18.9g saturated), 18.8g
protein, 32g carbs (3.9g sugars), 2.1g salt, 4.2g fibre

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 93

Do artificial
sweeteners cause
weight gain?
It’s the holy grail of the food industry: a low-calorie, safe alternative to sugar that tastes
just as good. With mounting concerns that sugar is fuelling the global obesity epidemic,
the range of alternative sweeteners is growing. But, asks Sue Quinn, are sugar
substitutes all sweetness and light – or do they come with a bitter aftertaste?
S
ugar substitutes have been around
for almost 140 years – saccharin
was first produced in 1879 and
used during World War II when the white
stuff was in short supply. These days, we
consume vast quantities of sweeteners.
According to market research analysts
Euromonitor, more than 2 million tonnes
of ‘high intensity sweeteners’, as they’re
sometimes known, were consumed in food
and drink products in the UK in 2016. The
European Food Information Council says
sales of low-calorie soft drinks have
increased 15-fold over the past 30 years
and have become best sellers.
WHAT ARE SWEETENERS?
Alternative sweeteners are low-calorie
or calorie-free sugar replacements used
to sweeten food and drink. They’re also
available as ‘table-top sweeteners’ to stir
into tea and coffee or sprinkle over cereal.
Sweeteners are anything from 200 to
650 times sweeter than sugar and contain
almost no calories (between 0-4kcal/g).
Because they’re intensely sweet, only tiny
amounts are needed, so they can satisfy a
sweet tooth without racking up the calories.
There are different kinds of sweetener:
artificial, ‘non-nutritive’ or intense
94 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
THE SANE VIEW
sweeteners are calorie-free and often
found in food and drinks labelled ‘diet’,
‘calorie-free’ or ‘no sugar’. The most
common ones in the UK include
acesulfame K, aspartame, saccharin and
sucralose (see box, right). Nutritive
sweeteners contain energy in the form of
carbohydrates, so they’re low-calorie but
not calorie-free. Common forms include
fructose and others ending in ‘ol’ such as
sorbitol and xylitol. Natural sweeteners
include calorie-free stevia, extracted from
the Stevia rebaudiana plant, as well as
honey, agave, coconut sugar, molasses,
brown rice syrup and maple syrup.
ARE THEY SAFE?
Over the decades there have been many
safety scares about alternative sweeteners.
Some early animal studies, later disproved,
suggested links to cancer. More recent
independent animal studies have suggested
they might cause health issues, including
neurological and liver problems.
Detractors say some sweeteners haven’t
been studied adequately and that studies
declaring them safe weren’t impartial
because they were sponsored by the
companies that manufacture them.
ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
However, all modern sweeteners have
to undergo rigorous safety checks and be
approved by the European Food Safety
Authority. And both Cancer Research
UK and the US National Cancer Institute
have said sweeteners don’t cause cancer.
“Large studies looking at people have now
provided strong evidence that artificial
 your health.

High regular consumption of artificial sweeteners

could cause spikes in blood sugar levels and increase TRUE OR FALSE?
insulin resistance which, in turn, could increase the Oicial heath policy states
that alternative sweeteners
risk of developing type 2 diabetes can help weight loss
T TRUE T FALSE
sweeteners are safe for humans,” states …AND SOME CONCERNS The long-term effects of
Cancer Research UK. Some studies suggest that consuming consuming large quantities
But even if sweeteners are safe, the artificial sweeteners over the long term is of sweeteners are unknown.
question remains: are they healthy likely to make people gain weight. An T TRUE T FALSE
options? There’s conflicting evidence. investigation published in the Canadian
Evidence suggests long-
Emerging research indicates that, rather Medical Association Journal underwent a
term consumption of large
than helping with weight loss, long-term review of 37 studies involving more than
quantities of sweeteners
consumption might actually have the 400,000 people. It found a link between might increase the risk of
opposite effect and cause weight gain. regular consumption of sweeteners and type 2 diabetes, obesity
weight gain, obesity, high blood pressure, and cardiovascular disease
THE BENEFITS diabetes, heart disease and other problems. T TRUE T FALSE
The European Food Safety Authority has “Given the increasing use of non-nutritive
approved claims by manufacturers that sweeteners, caution is warranted until the Some medical experts
sweeteners help prevent tooth decay, risks and benefits of these products are suggest drinks containing
control blood sugar levels and reduce calorie fully characterised,” the study concluded. sweeteners are unsuitable
intake. An enquiry into carbohydrates and It’s unclear why sweeteners might for children
health by the Government’s Scientific trigger weight gain. It could be the body T TRUE T FALSE
Advisory Committee on Nutrition (SACN) becomes confused when it consumes According to a theory,
in 2015 also concluded they were safe. something sweet that has no calories, sweeteners might trigger
“Replacing sugar with sweeteners in our triggering hunger. Another theory is that sugar cravings
foods and drinks can reduce the number sweeteners fuel sugar cravings, or alter T TRUE T FALSE
of calories consumed, helping us to our gut bacteria in a way that impairs our
achieve and maintain a healthy weight,” ability to control blood sugar levels.
says Professor Louis Levy, head of nutrition In theory at least, sweeteners don’t raise for the Study of Diabetes last year found
science at Public Health England. “Our blood sugar levels the way sugar does, so that sweeteners can interfere with the way
latest evidence review suggests sweeteners are considered safe for diabetics. However, the body processes glucose. The University
are safe and have a role in tackling obesity.” a study given to the European Association of Adelaide’s Dr Richard Young, who led
the study, says: “High regular consumption
of artificial sweeteners may be a path to
poorer blood sugar control in humans.”
THE 7 MOST COMMON ALTERNATIVE This could cause spikes in blood sugar and
SWEETENERS USED IN THE UK increase insulin resistance, which is when
the body fails to keep blood glucose levels
• Acesulfame K Up to 300-400 times sweeter • Sucralose Calorie-free under control. “This, in turn, could increase
200 times sweeter than than sugar. Can have a and up to 650 times the risk of developing type 2 diabetes,
sugar and calorie-free, bitter aftertaste. sweeter than sugar. obesity and cardiovascular diseases,” Dr
often blended with • Sorbitol Extracted Valued for having no Young says. Research is set to continue.
sucralose and used to from glucose, resembles bitter aftertaste; often Harvard School of Public Health advises
decrease the bitter sugar with 60 per cent of combined with other low-calorie drinks are best consumed in
aftertaste of aspartame. its sweetness and 30 per low-calorie sweeteners small amounts over a short period of time.
• Aspartame 200 times cent fewer calories. Can to dilute its sweetness. And because the long-term effects of these
sweeter than sugar and have a laxative effect if • Xylitol Low-calorie sweetened drinks ‘are unknown’, the
low calorie. The most you have a lot of it. sweetener obtained from advice is for children to avoid them.
controversial sweetener, • Stevia 200-300 a variety of plants. Xylitol
once linked to cancer, times sweeter than is a polyol, a kind of THE BOTTOM LINE
a theory later disproved. sugar, extracted from carbohydrate. Polyols Alternative sweeteners are widely
• Saccharin The oldest the leaves of a plant are banned from soft regarded as safe, but emerging evidence
artificial sweetener. native to Central and drinks in the EU because suggests that consuming large quantities
Calorie-free and South America. of their laxative effect. over the long-term may have health
implications including weight gain.
 V IS FOR VEGETARIAN

IT’S ALL ABOUT

THE BALANCE
A low-carb diet shouldn’t mean a no-carb diet, says Annie Bell. You just need to tweak
things to achieve a better balance – and these glorious meat-free recipes do that in style

Roast asparagus
and red onion
with farro

RECIPES ANNIE BELL

PHOTOGRAPHS CON POULOS
STYLING SUSIE THEODOROU
 eat well for life.

My approach to eating well, without

having too many carbs, is to bump up
protein, to include fats and to avoid
processed foods and added sugars.
A key trend of the low-carb diet is to
replace refined grains such as pasta,
white bread and rice with non-starchy
carbs such as green veg, aubergines,
mushrooms and celeriac, and there is
a lot to recommend it. Eating this way
is about as good as it gets. ANNIE BELL

Watercress and 30-60 seconds until nice and

pistachio soup
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN,
COOKING TIME 15 MIN
Pistachios give this soup a
soothing homespun texture,
thick and faintly mealy. Their
scent after a quick spell in hot
butter works a treat with the
watercress, while the
pomegranate challenges its
slight bitterness. It’s a soup that
suggests that all is well with the
world. You might like to crumble
a little goat’s cheese over the
soup for added pleasure.
buttery, stirring constantly. Add the
watercress and stir until it wilts. Add
the celeriac and cook for a minute
longer, stirring occasionally, then
pour in the boiling stock and add
some seasoning. Simmer for
6 minutes, then whizz it, in batches, A soup with added
in a blender until smooth (see tips). pistachio power
2 Gently reheat if necessary and
serve in warm bowls with a thread
(1 tsp) of pomegranate molasses
and a few extra pistachios.
PER SERVING 185 kcals, 12.3g fat
(5.1g saturated), 4.2g protein,
11.2g carbs (9.9g sugars), 1.4g salt,
3.4g fibre.

Make the soup up to 48 Roast asparagus and red

MAKE hours in advance and keep
AHEAD
in a sealed container in the
fridge. Or freeze for up to 1 month.
You could also use a stick
FOOD
TEAM’S blender or a food processor.
TIPS
Remember when whizzing
hot liquid in a blender to remove the
cap and cover with a folded tea towel.
• 1.1 litres vegetable stock (if you’re
not cooking for vegetarians you
can use chicken stock)
• 50g unsalted butter
• 50g pistachio kernels, coarsely
chopped, plus a few extra to serve
• 250g watercress
• 300g celeriac, peeled, cut into
PORTRAIT: NASSIMA ROTHACKER
onion with farro • 350-400g fine asparagus, halved
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, lengthways ANNIE BELL
OVEN TIME 25 MIN • 2 red onions, halved and thinly trained as
sliced into half moons a chef before
changing
This accommodating little • 50g farro
career to
dish is ideal for when you’re not • 1 tbsp small capers, rinsed food writer
completely sure about when you • Handful coarsely chopped – and has
might sit down to eat: served hot, flatleaf parsley since upped
her health
ambient or cool it will still be • Chia seeds to scatter (optional) credentials,
great. And, should you be feeling • Lemon wedges to serve completing
particularly hungry, it welcomes an MSc in
Human
a lightly poached egg or some 1 Heat the oven to 210°C/190°C fan/
Nutrition.
griddled and sliced chicken. gas 6½. Combine the lemon juice She’s written
Most farro sold today is quick- and garlic with 2 tbsp of the olive oil numerous
cook and takes less than 15 in a large bowl. Add the asparagus cookbooks,
of which
minutes – a boon for a grain. and toss to coat, then season well Low-Carb
and spread over the base of a large Express is

5-7cm chunks and finely sliced
• 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses
1 Bring the stock to the boil in a
small saucepan. Melt the butter
in a large saucepan over a medium
heat, add the nuts and fry for
Leftovers will keep in
MAKE
AHEAD the fridge for 2-3 days,
covered.
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• 1 garlic clove, crushed to a paste
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
roasting tin. her most
recent.
2 Spread the onion over a baking
sheet, separating out the slices,
drizzle over the remaining oil and
toss to coat. Roast the asparagus for
about 20 minutes until lightly golden
and, at the same time, roast the →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 97
 Find yellow /golden ground
FOOD
TEAM’S linseeds and soya flour in
TIP
larger health food shops or
online at hollandandbarrett.com or
wholefoodsonline.co.uk.

• 50g ground yellow linseeds (or

grind them – see Annie’s tip)
• 50g ground almonds
• Pinch Maldon sea salt
• 1 heaped tbsp soya flour (see tip)
• 1 rounded tsp baking powder
• 2 medium free-range eggs

1 Heat the oven to 240°C/220°C fan/

gas 9 with a large (at least 20cm
wide) baking sheet inside.
2 Combine the ground linseeds,
almonds and salt in a large bowl. Sift
over and mix in the soya flour and
baking powder. Whisk the eggs with
75ml cold water in a medium bowl
until well blended, add to the dry
ingredients and stir to blend. Leave
THE FLAVOUR IS
the mixture to stand for 5 minutes,
ALL FOR REAL
Red pepper, feta during which time it will thicken up.
and olive fake-accia 3 Without stirring, tip the dough onto
a large sheet of non-stick baking
paper, lay cling film over and use
your fingers to gently spread the
dough into a 20cm circle about 1cm
onion for 25 minutes, stirring halfway one of these centrally on the thick. Tidy the edge with your fingers,
through to caramelise it evenly. table, by the end, sliver after then peel off the cling film. Bake for
3 Meanwhile, bring a medium pan of sliver will have been carved of 20-22 minutes until golden or use in
salted water to the boil and cook the and there’ll be little or nothing the topped recipe below.
farro for 15 minutes or until just left. With a blend of linseeds and PER SERVING 172kcals, 14.7g fat
tender. Drain into a sieve. almonds, it also packs a punch (1.8g saturated), 6.6g protein,
READER
OFFER 4 Stir the farro and the onion into the nutritionally, broadening out the 1.2g carbs (0.6g sugars), 0.4g salt,
These recipes are asparagus, then mix in the capers range of fibre you’ll be getting. 2.2g fibre
from Low Carb and taste for seasoning. Transfer to Just don’t call it a focaccia or
Express by Annie a platter and eat hot or at room a pizza – this is delicious in its Red pepper, feta and olive
Bell (£16.99; Kyle
fake-accia

*OFFER SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PLEASE ALLOW SEVEN DAYS FOR DELIVERY

Books, out on temperature. Stir in the parsley to own right. And, like a pizza base,
5 April). To buy it serve and scatter with chia seeds, you can dress it up in endless SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
for the special if wished. Serve with lemon wedges. ways – see my next recipe. OVEN TIME 20-22 MIN
price of £11.90
PER SERVING 186kcals, 10.5g fat
including P&P,
please call (1.5g saturated), 5.6g protein, Flaxseeds and linseeds are With toasted cheese, roast
01903 828503 15.4g carbs (6.2g sugars), 0.2g salt, ANNIE’S the same thing. The yellow peppers, olives and tomatoes,
TIP
quoting the code 3.7g fibre ones used here are milder this is pizza-esque in its appeal.
Carb KB001*.
and sweeter than the brown (you It’s great for eating cold, too.
Fake-accia will probably need to grind your
MAKES 1 X 20CM BREAD. SERVES 6. own). I cannot praise these little • 1 unbaked fake-accia (see recipe,
HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, OVEN TIME seeds highly enough. They have a left)
20-22 MIN high fibre content (they contain both • 100g cherry tomatoes, halved
soluble and insoluble fibre) and • 100g roasted red peppers, cut
This is something like a nutty they’re one of the richest sources of into thin strips
soda bread, delicate and tender. the essential omega 3 alpha- • Small handful rocket
Come suppertime, I find if I put linolenic fatty acid. leaves

98 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 eat well for life.

• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus • 75g blueberries 3 Add half the remaining butter to the
extra (optional) • 25g ricotta or young goat’s cheese pan and swirl to melt, then tip in the
• 50g feta, coarsely crumbled • 1 tbsp dark rum egg mixture and cook for 3 minutes.
• 30g pitted black olives, halved • Ground cinnamon for dusting Just before the end of this time,
scatter the apple slices over the
1 Heat the oven to 240°C/220°C fan/ 1 Whizz the eggs, milk, stevia, the surface, along with the blueberries,
gas 9 with a with a large (at least saffron liquor and vanilla extract in and dot with the remaining butter
20cm wide) baking sheet inside. a blender until foamy, then add the and the ricotta or goat’s cheese.
Slide the fake-accia, still on the lemon zest and juice and whizz Place under the grill for 3-4 minutes
paper, onto the hot baking sheet and again. Heat the grill to medium. or until golden and puffy at the
bake for 10 minutes until golden. 2 Melt half the butter in a 24cm sides, then drizzle over the rum and
2 Meanwhile, toss the tomatoes, non-stick frying pan with a dust with cinnamon. The frittata is
peppers and rocket together in a heatproof handle over a medium best enjoyed after about 15 minutes
medium bowl. (I’m assuming you’re heat and fry the apple slices for a of standing, or freshly cooled.
using ready-roasted peppers in oil. few minutes until translucent and PER SERVING 128kcals, 7.5g fat NEXT
If you’ve roasted your own peppers, lightly coloured, turning the slices (3.5g saturated), 7.0g protein, MONTH
Celebrate spring
add a drizzle of oil to the mixture). and stirring frequently, then 6.0g carbs (5.3g sugars), 0.3g salt, with vibrant new
3 Scatter these over the part-baked transfer these to a bowl. 0.5g fibre veggie recipes
dough, then top with the feta and
olives and drizzle 1 tbsp oil over
everything, including the crust.
4 Bake for a further 10-12 minutes
until tinged with gold and toasty at
the edges. Leave to cool to room
temperature. Use a spatula to
loosen the fake-accia and slip it
onto a board before cutting.
PER SERVING 191kcals, 15.5g fat
(2.8g saturated), 8.3g protein,
2.4g carbs (1.7g sugars), 0.8g salt,
2.7g fibre

Apple and blueberry

frittata
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
PLUS 15 MIN STANDING

This semi-sweet omelette has

something of a clafoutis about it.
The sweetness comes from just
a little stevia and the natural
sugars in the fruit, with spices
that we associate with baking
to evoke comfort.

• 4 medium free-range eggs

• 100ml skimmed milk
PAN-TASTIC IDEA
• 1½ tbsp granulated stevia
Apple and
(equivalent to 1½ tbsp sugar) blueberry frittata
• Small pinch saffron, ground and
mixed with 1 tsp boiling water
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• Finely grated zest 1 lemon, plus
1 tbsp juice
• 20g unsalted butter
• 1 eating apple, peeled, cored and
thinly sliced lengthways

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 99
eat well for life.

HEALTHY MAKEOVER

NEW TAKE Our less calorific, fibre-packed

ON A CLASSIC version is simple to make and just

Lighter cottage pie
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN
We used a lean (5% fat) beef
HOW WE mince and swapped the
DID IT
usual mash for a cauliflower
and bean topping. The creaminess of
the beans means there’s no need to
add extra butter to the mash.
Make but don’t bake the pie
MAKE and keep it covered in the
AHEAD
fridge. Bring back to room
temperature, then bake as in the
recipe for an extra 10-15 minutes or
until golden and bubbling.
Freeze the unbaked pie (without
cheese) for up to 3 months, wrapped
in cling film. Bake from frozen for
45-50 minutes. Top with grated
cheese after 15 minutes.
(discard any fat) and set aside.
2 Heat the olive oil in the pan,
add the onion and gently fry for
5 minutes until starting to soften.
Stir in the carrots and mushrooms
and cook for 2-3 minutes more.
Return the drained mince to the pan
and add the stock, chopped tomatoes
and Worcestershire sauce.
3 Season with salt and pepper,
cover with a lid and simmer for
15 minutes, then uncover and
simmer for 5 minutes more.
4 Meanwhile, bring a pan of water to
as comforting as the original
the boil and heat the oven to 200°C/
180°C fan/gas 6. Boil the cauliflower
for 10 minutes until very tender.
Drain, return to the pan and add the
drained beans. Use a potato masher
to mash the cauliflower and beans
coarsely, then season to taste.
5 Transfer the mince mixture to the
ovenproof dish and top with the
cauliflower and bean mash (see
Make Ahead). Grate over the cheese,
then bake for 25-30 minutes until
golden and bubbling. Serve with
peas or other green veg.

• 400g lean (5% fat) British beef

RECIPE: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. FOOD STYLING: ROSIE RAMSDEN. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE
mince
• 1 tsp olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 3 carrots, finely chopped
• 100g chestnut mushrooms, sliced
• 300ml beef stock
• 400g tin chopped tomatoes
• 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

FOR THE TOPPING

• 1 cauliflower, roughly
chopped
• 400g tin butter beans,
drained and rinsed
• 40g lighter mature
TRADITIONAL OUR MAKEOVER
cheddar COTTAGE PIE VERSION
661kcals 363kcals
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
26.7g fat 8.7g fat
• 1.5 litre ovenproof dish (14g saturated) (3.7g saturated)
40.8g protein 34.9g protein
1 Heat a large non-stick deep 53.6g carbs 30.4g carbs
(10.4g sugars) (17.8g sugars)
frying pan (with a lid), add the
2g salt 1.3g salt
beef mince and fry for 5-8 minutes
7.7g fibre 12.3g fibre
until browned. Drain the mince

100 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 BE A BE T TER COOK
BE A BE T TER COOK
8 PA G E S O F T I P S A N D K N OW - H OW T O G ET YO U C O O K I N G
S M A R T E R , FA S T E R A N D W I T H G R E AT E R C O N F I D E N C E
M E ET
OUR
EXPERTS

A PRIL 2018
JEN
BEDLOE
Food
editor

→
LOTTIE delicious.
COVELL KITCHEN p102
Acting food
lifestyle editor Cookery tips and
tricks, including
three big-on-
flavour salad
dressings

OLIVIA

→
SPURRELL LEMON CURD
Cookery HOW-TO p104
assistant
You can’t beat
a homemade
curd for citrussy
tang – our version
is simple to make
and store
LUCAS
HOLLWEG
Chef and food
writer

XANTHE
CLAY CHEF’S STEP BY STEP p107
Chef, writer,
and preserves Fah Sundravorakul shows how
& freezing to make chicken katsu curry
queen just like they do in Japan

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 101
THIS MONTH IN THE delicious. KITCHEN...
While the delicious. team are testing recipes, they’re often debating the best ways to do things
as well as answering cooking questions that arise in the test kitchen. What do you do if you’ve over-
whipped your cream? Why do chefs whisk butter into risottos at the end? What’s a hassle-free way
to make hasselback potatoes? And what fish and seafood are in season at this time of year? It’s the
kind of information you won’t find anywhere else, and it will help take your cooking to the next level.

M A K E THE BOU NT Y L A ST
BUTCHER’S
CUTS
SCRAG
JERSEY ROYAL POTATOES CH
EEK
NECK
END
RUMP/
BY XANTHE CLAY
New potatoes are one of the first
FILLET
RIB LOIN
CHUMP

joys of spring, sometimes

overlooked in favour of their more
pushy fellow spring vegetable,
asparagus. A freshly dug new
potato has a fine flavour that’s worth preserving
FREEZE New potatoes don’t freeze brilliantly, as they
can go watery or mealy. Really small, waxy specimens
fare best as they have a lower water content. Cut
them into olive-size chunks and boil for five minutes
in salted water until just tender, then toss in butter
and freeze in bags for up to 3 months.
PRESERVE There are wonderful Indian potato pickles,
such as aloo achaar, but none that lasts more than a
few days in the fridge. For longer-term storage, try
drying them instead. Slice small waxy new potatoes
1 2mm thick (a mandoline will help here).
1-2mm here) Boil in salted
water for 3 minutes or until barely tender. Drain well,
then spread out on oven trays lined with
non-stick baking paper. Dry at 60°C (or in
a warming drawer) for 5-10 hours until
the slices are crisp but not coloured.
Pack into bags or jars and store
somewhere cool and dry for up
to 2 months. Eat as they
are, fry in oil for
extra-crisp crisps
or soak in water
overnight and use
in soups, stews
gratins and
Spanish-
style
tortillas.
Thinking about spring
lamb? Look beyond
SHOULDER
LEG
roast leg and slow-
cooked shoulder with our
BREAST
guide to some lesser-used FORE HIND
SHANK SHANK
cuts. This month British lamb is
likely to be from animals born in
winter or year-old lamb – called
hogget. Younger lamb is
imported from New Zealand.
BARNSLEY CHOP A double-sided loin chop on the bone. Shaped like a droopy
moustache, each side of the chop contains some under-fillet as well as loin.
How to cook it Best griddled, grilled or pan-fried.
NECK FILLET A long, thin, boneless cut from the eye of meat that runs through
the neck. It has a bit of fat, so lends itself well to braising but it can also
be cut into cubes for kebabs or butterflied lengthways for a lamb steak.
How to cook it If trimmed and from a young animal, you can roast it: sear it
first, then give it 10 minutes at 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Rest before slicing.
SCRAG END Inexpensive neck cut with lots of bone and connective tissue.
How to cook it It can be braised whole with veg, herbs and wine, or cut into
chops for hotpots. Not the prettiest of cuts but lots of flavour.
BREAST A fatty cut (it’s like pork belly), breast is often boned, stuffed with
a breadcrumb filling and rolled before slow roasting. It also makes good
broth and can be cut into ribs that turn crisp when fiercely roasted.
How to cook it Try rubbing with punchy North African or Chinese spice
blends. Or poach the meat, press it and chill, then coat in breadcrumbs
and fry it. Delicious with mayonnaise flavoured with capers or anchovy.
RUMP/CHUMP A cut taken from the pad of meat just before the rear legs.
How to cook it It’s often cut into chops or sliced for steaks but it can also be
cooked as a mini roast. Brown it well, then cook fo or 15-20 minutes
at 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7 and rest well before sliccing.

COOK’S When chopping soft herbs such as

TIP basil and mint, lay 6-10 leaves one
on top of another to make a pile, then roll up
and slice with a sharp knife. This is called ‘ch
hiffonade’.
 BE A BETTER COOK
R ECIPE R ESCU E COOK’S Stirring butter
TIP into cooked
OVER-WHIPPED CREAM risotto at the end of the
When the consistency is right, whipped cream should cooking time is a
fall from the whisks in loose, cloud-like dollops. Whisk traditional final step
it too much and it starts to stiffen. If that happens, don’t known as ‘mantecare’.
try to stir in more cream or the mixture will get thicker.
Instead, stir in a splash of milk. The result will be less
Mixing in the butter adds
stable than pure whipped cream but will be fine for a richness that brings the
spooning onto a pudding. If the cream is so whipped that dish together to create
it looks like homemade butter, you may as well finish
the right consistency and

delicious. KITCHEN
the job. Wash off the buttermilk with cold water, then
mix in salt to taste and spread on hot muffins. mouthfeel. See our cover-
star risotto recipe on p22

THE HOME SMOKING

GOOD LIFE “If you can eat or drink it,
you can smoke it…”
Smoking adds great
flavour to your food
– and you don’t need
to build a smokehouse
in the back garden,
says Lucas Hollweg
THE BASICS
Hot smoking involves smoking at a
temperature of 80-120°C so the food
cooks as well as smokes. It’s usually safe
to eat the food without further cooking;
smoked mackerel is hot smoked.
Cold smoking bathes the food in ‘cool’
smoke (generally at below 30°C), so the
food is flavoured by the smoke but stays
raw and usually needs cooking. Smoked
salmon is an exception. It’s been cured
before smoking, so can be eaten as it is.
WHAT CAN YOU SMOKE?
If you can eat or drink it, you can smoke
it. Fish, meat, seafood, tofu, veg, butter,
cheese, milk, even water and cocktails…
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
or 30 minutes-plus for large fillets/whole
fish. Rinse and dry before smoking.
For meat/poultry, mix equal amounts
of salt with light brown sugar (and any
herbs/spices you want: five-spice is
good for duck). Rub in and leave for
15-60 minutes, then rinse and dry.
ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT
Hot smoking is easy enough to do
yourself, but you can buy stovetop
smokers (such as the Cameron from
souschef.co.uk) and smoking bags woods give a mild, sweet result; oak
(from lakeland.co.uk). The latter seal in gives a mellow smokiness. You can also
the food next to a sachet of woodchips, smoke with hay or a mixture of rice and
which infuses it with flavour as it cooks. tea leaves, such as lapsang souchong.
Put a few teaspoons of sawdust in the
Cold smoking requires more kit, such as pan, cover with foil and pierce a few holes
an electric smoker. You can buy smoke in the top. Open the windows. Heat the
guns (lakeland.co.uk) that infuse food pan until the sawdust starts to smoke.
with a hint of smoke in a few minutes. Put the rack on top, then the food. Cover
the pan tightly with a lid/foil, then turn
HOW TO MAKE A SIMPLE HOT SMOKER the heat to its lowest until the food is
You’ll need an old oven tray; pan or wok smoked to your liking – it can take time
with a close-fitting lid; kitchen foil; a to get it right, but don’t leave the pan

WHAT ABOUT PREP? wire rack that fits inside the pan a few una
unattended. You can always finish
Meat and fish benefitt from quick curing centimetres off the bottom; sawdust. cookking meat/fish in
before hot-smoking to draw out some What kind of sawdust? Chemical-free a paan/oven. Let the sawdust cool before
moisture and add flavour. hardwoods. throowing it away.
For fish, sprinkle witth coarse Apple and Worrks best for quick-cooking fish fillets
salt on both sides and leave for fruit and scallops, or small cuts of poultry
5-10 minutes for sma all fillets suchh as duck or pigeon breasts. →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 103

TECHNIQU E How to make lemon curd
A B
D E
MAKES 250ML. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
Curd is a zingy alternative to jam. Spread
it on toast or use it in sponge cakes or
swirled into ice cream or yogurt
Curd will keep chilled in a sealed,
MAKE sterilised jar for up to a month.
AHEAD
Freeze in bags for up to 3 months.
Vary the flavour to suit your taste:
NEXT try swapping 1 lemon for 2 limes
TIME
and add a teaspoon of rum or
70g grated fresh ginger.
1 Put the grated zest and juice of 2 large
lemons in a heatproof glass or
stainless steel bowl set over a pan of
barely simmering water (don’t let the
bowl touch the water). Warm for 3-4
minutes [A], then add 175g caster sugar
and stir gently until dissolved. Strain into
a heatproof jug (discard solids).
NEW VIDEOS ONLINE NOW
Want to improve your kitchen skills?
Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk and
discover how to… Make cheat’s gnudi • Sh
oysters like a pro • Bake a hot cross bun l
• Roast potatoes from frozen – and more
104 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
C
F
2 Whisk in 3 large free-range eggs
[B], then pour the mixture back into
the bowl and put back over the pan of
hot water [C]. Stir for 10-12 minutes in
a figure-of-eight motion, scraping the
bottom of the bowl so it doesn’t stick and
start to curdle. When it starts to thicken,
turn down the heat slightly. It’s ready
when the curd drops off the spoon leaving
a little drip and a trail in the bowl [D].
3 Turn off the heat and, stirring
occasionally, let the curd cool for
3-4 minutes before stirring in 35g
unsalted butter [E]. Put cling film on the
surface of the curd so it doesn’t form
a skin [F], then leave to cool to room
temperature. Decant into sterilised jars.
Learn how to sterilise your jars at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/video/
how-to-sterilise-jars
TR EN DW
WATCH
Chilli sauce
Britain’s love of the
t hot stuff
has never been k keener. But
with a growing va ariety of chilli
sauces on offer, do
d you know
what to reach forr, when?
HOT CHILLI SAUCES A range of spicy
condiments that a are a storecupboard
essential for mosst chilli heads. Many
of the hottest ver sions are based on
Caribbean recipes, with a thick mix of
fiery chillies in a fruity, spicy, vinegar
base. The milder Thai sriracha sauce
has a moreish sweetness and often
a garlic backnote that’s as good stirred
into mayo as it is splashed over Asian
food. For bloody marys, oysters and
pepping up your welsh rarebit, Tabasco
is the best bet (the Louisiana company
now produces jalapeño and chipotle
versions, as well as the classic sauce).
SWEET CHILLI SAUCES The syrupy Thai
version, nam chim kai, is most widely
available, but variations are found
across Asia, sometimes with added
ingredients such as ginger and sesame
seeds. Most are a mix of chilli, rice
vinegar, sugar (or fruit-based
sweetening), garlic and often soy or
fish sauce. Use as a condiment and
dipping sauce or stir into marinades.
COOK’S
TIP
To make
hasselback
potatoes, sit each potato
in turn in the bowl of a
wooden spoon, then use
a sharp knife to cut slits in
the tato. The ed of the

By CJ Jackson, CEO of The Seafood School at
Billingsgate and Seafish UK ambassador
April can be a tricky time for buying fish as
many species are producing roe, which can
leave them skinny and in poor condition.
Farmed fish are a good option now, as is…
1  FISH ROE
Female fish produce roe
(eggs) and males produce milt
(to fertilise the eggs). Herring
milt (soft roe) and eggs (hard
roe) is a delicacy. In spring
some roe is available fresh:
cod, coley, ling and haddock are
harvested commercially. Cold-
smoked cod roe is available
year round and is used to make
taramasalata. Other roe from
Pacific salmon (keta), trout,
capelin and lumpfish are sold
lightly salted in jars and add
colour and texture to dishes.
Caviar is the most exclusive
roe. It once came from wild
sturgeon caught in Iran and
Russia but it’s now mainly
farmed in Europe. Caviar is
pricey but it takes up to 20 years
for the fish to grow to maturity.
Arënkha (formerly Avruga) is
a caviar substitute made from
MSC-certified smoked herring.
Great ways to cook Fresh roe
can be wrapped in baking paper
and poached until firm. Slice it
when cold, coat in egg and
breadcrumbs, then deep-fry –
fish and chip shops often sell it.
2  POLLOCK
Atlantic pollock (or lythe) is
sold as an alternative to cod
(they’re closely related), but
availability is sporadic and only
sm ll quan
mall quantities are landed,
which means it can be pricey.
Pollock has an olive green
back, silver belly and a fine
puckered lateral line. Its flesh
is similar in texture to coley –
translucent with tightly knitted
flakes, turning sweet and white
when cooked.
Great ways to cook Steam with
ginger, spring onion, chilli and
soy sauce, or roast with lemon
and serve with tartare sauce.
3  SCALLOPS
King scallops are one of
two scallop species that are
wild-harvested and farmed
around the UK coastline. In the
wild, they’re caught either by
dredging (which has a high
environmental impact) or
hand-diving, which is the
preferable method. In the UK
you can buy scallops in or out
of the shell, fresh or frozen.
The guts are discarded, leaving
a sweet white muscle and the
orange roe. Ask for dry scallops,
which haven’t been soaked in
water and are sweeter.
Great ways to cook Season
and pan-fry the whole scallop.
Thirty seconds on each side in
a hot pan should colour the
exterior and leave the middle
juicy and tender. The roe can be
dehydrated in a very low oven,
powdered and used to flavour
fish
sh soups
so and risottos.
5 WAYS TO
BE A BETTER COOK
USE UP
LEFTOVER
CARAMEL
SAUCE
LAYER chocolate mousse in a
pot with caramel sauce. (Find a
chocolate mousse recipe at deliciousmagazine.co.uk.)
SWIRL into a chocolate brownie batter.
SPOON over ice cream, pancakes or waffles.
delicious. KITCHEN
BROWN apple slices in a frying pan with butter, then add
caramel sauce and simmer until soft. Serve with
cream or ice cream.
SPREAD over the bottom of a lined cake tin, add apples,
pears or other fruit and cover with victoria sponge
batter before baking as a caramel upside-down cake.
3 EASY DRESSINGS
FOR SPRING SALADS
CREAM & TARRAGON Mix the juice of 1 lemon with
½ tsp caster sugar. Whisk in 3 tbsp extra-virgin
olive oil, then 4 tbsp double cream. Stir in 2 tbsp
each finely chopped shallots and chives and
some chopped fresh tarragon, then season.
Great with… a simple lettuce salad
ANCHOVY Mash 6 salted anchovy fillets with
1 garlic clove. Whisk in 1 egg yolk, 1 tsp dijon
mustard and some black pepper. Whisk in
200ml light olive oil, drop by drop at first, then in
a thin stream to make mayonnaise. Mix in 2 tbsp
lemon juice plus the zest of ¼ lemon, a pinch of
chilli flakes and 25g grated parmesan. Thin with
water to pouring cream consistency.
Great with… lettuce and croutons, bitter leaves or
for dunking any vegetable.
GINGER & SOY Mix 1 crushed garlic clove and
2 tsp grated ginger. Stir in 1 tbsp clear honey and
25ml rice vinegar, then slowly whisk in 4 tbsp
olive oil, 2 tbsp soy sauce and 1½ tbsp water.
Great with… salads and veg, both
raw and cooked – it’s particularly
good with cabbage.
festival fever.

NOMINATE
AND WIN!
It’s your chance to make a diference, and
nomination is quick and easy. Go online and
tell us about your favourite local food hero PERTH SHOW
3-4 AUGUST
for a chance to win a cooker worth £1,300

T
here’s still time to nominate your favourite food heroes in
the 2018 delicious. Produce Awards. Is there a baker, IRISH GAME FAIR
cheesemaker, farmer, winemaker or smokehouse you think 23-24 JUNE
deserves recognition? Share your knowledge and nominate them
right now: visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/produceawards – it only
DALES FESTIVAL
takes a couple of minutes to nominate and, as well as doing a good OF FOOD & DRINK
deed, you’ll be in with a chance to win a state-of-the-art cooker. 16-17 JUNE
NANTWICH
Hurry, though: nominations close at the end of April. FOOD FESTIVAL
Of course, producers can enter themselves too. Do you grow, 31 AUG TO 2 SEP
rear or make a British product you’re proud of? Do your dedication
and skill make your product stand out? Are quality and LEAMINGTON FOOD
ALDEBURGH FOOD
sustainability essential to your ethos? If so, enter & DRINK FESTIVAL
& DRINK FESTIVAL
yourself into the awards at the web address above. 8-9 SEP
29-30 SEP
HURRY AND ABERGAVENNY
FOOD FESTIVAL
NOMINATE NOW! 15-16 SEP
WHY OUR AWARDS ARE SO SPECIAL Nominations close
for entry on
The delicious. Produce Awards are ESSEX FOOD &
30 April 2018
dedicated to unearthing and celebrating the TASTE OF DRINK FESTIVAL
most exciting, innovative and talented small- THE SOUTH 14-15 JULY
21-22 JULY
scale artisan producers from the northernmost tip of
Shetland, right down to the Isles of Scilly. And, in between,
the awards scour every corner of the UK: Northern Ireland,
the Isle of Wight, the Channel Islands... In the past two years JOIN US ON THE ROAD - ARE WE IN YOUR AREA?
we’ve discovered and celebrated fantastic people and small Get the dates in your diary… delicious. is hitting the
businesses, giving them space in delicious. magazine and road this summer, touring the UK’s best food festivals
on our website to tell the world about what they do. to do the regional judging for the delicious. Produce
Awards. Cookery expert Valentina Harris will oversee
the fun – come along and watch, and meet Valentina,
WIN! Nominate a producer the judges and our friends in the Fisher & Paykel
Social Kitchen. It’s going to be a blast…
for the Produce Awards 2018
and you’ll have the chance
to win a Fisher & Paykel
freestanding 90cm dual fuel
stainless steel cooker with
two ovens (RRP £1,300). It
would be a beautiful addition
to your kitchen.

106 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 BE A BETTER COOK
PHOTOGRAPHS FAITH MASON
FOOD STYLING JEN BEDLOE
STYLING MORAG FARQUHAR

CHEF’S STEP BY STEP

CHEF’S STEP BY STEP

CHICKEN
KATSU CURRY from Yamagoya
Katsu curry, a crunchy, breadcrumbed-and-fried fillet served with a special curry
sauce, is a favourite across Japan. It’s traditionally made with pork but can be made
with chicken breast too. Each family and restaurant has their own variation, some
adding fruit, extra spices and herbs to the sauce, depending on their taste. The sauce
is usually mildly spiced but at some restaurants you can select your spice level so it
can be extremely hot. Ultra-crisp Japanese panko breadcrumbs are key to the
recipe; the bigger the crumbs, the crisper and better the result.
FAH SUNDRAVORAKUL, C0-FOUNDER OF JAPANESE RESTAURANT YAMAGOYA
 A BIT ABOUT FAH
Thai-born, London-
based restaurateur
Fah Sundravorakul
brought Japanese
restaurant Yamagoya to
its permanent home in
London’s The Cut in
2017. Like the original
restaurant, which was
founded in 1969 on
the island of Fukuoka
in Japan, the London
spin-off specialises
in various styles of
ramen, Japan’s
famed noodle
soup. Yamagoya
(which means
mountain hut)
A B
also serves
other Japanese
fast food-
style dishes
including
gyoza and the
house special,
katsu curry.

Yamagoya chicken katsu
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR 20 MIN,
SIMMERING TIME 40 MIN, PLUS SOAKING
Make the curry sauce up to
MAKE 3 days head, then cover and
AHEAD
chill. Reheat to serve.
Japanese curry roux is the
KNOW- secret to katsu curry. You
HOW
can make it yourself but the
ready-made blocks give an excellent
result. Buy them from Asian food
stores and online. We used S&B
Japanese Golden Curry Sauce Mix
– Medium Hot, from Waitrose, Ocado
and japancentre.com.
• 400g sushi rice
• 2 large free-range chicken breasts
• 40g cornflour
• 4 medium free-range eggs, beaten
• 2 x 150g packs panko breadcrumbs
F G
• Vegetable oil for deep frying
• Sesame seeds to serve
FOR THE CURRY SAUCE
• ½ large carrot
• 100g potato
• ½ medium onion
• 3 tbsp dark soy sauce (or to taste)
• ½ tsp garam masala powder
• 40g Japanese curry roux (see
Know-how)
1 Rinse the sushi rice in a sieve
under cold running water until the
water runs clear. Put the rice in
a bowl, cover with cold water and
leave to soak for 20-30 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, for the sauce, bring
450ml water to the boil. Chop the
carrot and potato into 1cm cubes
[A], then chop the onion. Add the
chopped carrot and potato to the
boiling water. After 5 minutes add
the onion and boil for 10 minutes
more, constantly skimming the
water with a large metal spoon to
remove any scum.
3 Remove the cooked veg with a
slotted spoon (reserve the cooking
water) and put in a blender or food
processor. Whizz to a fine purée [B].
4 Mix the vegetable purée, soy sauce
and garam masala into the pan of
reserved vegetable cooking water
until combined. Cook over a medium
heat until the mixture comes to the
boil [C], then reduce the heat to low
and simmer for 10-15 minutes,
stirring occasionally.
5 Turn off the heat and wait for
5 minutes, then stir in the curry
roux [D] until it melts completely.
You may need to add a splash of
water to loosen the sauce if it

108 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

C D
H I
thickens too much – it should be a
spoonable consistency. Keep warm
on a very low heat until needed.
6 Cook the rice according to the
packet instructions. Heat a deep,
heavy-based frying pan with about
5cm oil until it reaches 180°C on a
digital probe thermometer (or until
a cube of bread sizzles and browns
in about 30 seconds).
7 Meanwhile, slice each chicken
breast in half horizontally to make
2 thinner fillets [E]. Use a meat
tenderiser or the tip of a sharp knife
to tenderise the chicken [F] (see
Fah’s tips, right). Season both sides
of the chicken with salt and pepper.
8 Put the cornflour, eggs and
panko breadcrumbs in 3 separate
shallow bowls/containers [G]. First
coat the chicken in cornflour, then in
beaten egg, then finally in the panko
breadcrumbs [H], pressing down
firmly to make sure there’s
a good coating of crumbs sticking
to the fillet.
9 Fry the breadcrumbed fillets
in the hot oil, one at a time [I], for
4-5 minutes until golden and the
chicken is cooked through [J].
Transfer to a board or tray lined
with kitchen paper to drain, then
keep warm in a low oven. Once all
the chicken breasts are cooked,
slice each one into thin strips.
10 Divide the cooked rice among
4 plates and arrange the sliced
chicken next to the rice. Spoon the
katsu sauce over the chicken and
sprinkle with sesame seeds to serve.
PER SERVING 831kcals, 21.2g fat
(2.4g saturated), 38.7g protein,
120.4g carbs (6.6g sugars), 3.4g
salt, 2g fibre
BE A BETTER COOK
CHEF’S STEP BY STEP
E
J
FAH’S TIPS FOR KATSU
CURRY SUCCESS
→ Use the largest panko
crumbs you can find. Larger
breadcrumbs give a crisper
texture to the chicken fillets
when they’re deep-fried.
→ If you’d like to add some
sweetness to the dish, you
can add cubed apple when
you’re boiling the potato and
carrot (step 2). I tend to use
green apple.
→ To tenderise meat, it’s
useful to invest in a meat
tenderiser, but if you don’t
have one, use the tip of a NEXT
MONTH
sharp knife to pierce the
Mmmm...
chicken breasts all over [F]. Nutella
doughnuts

TEST
REPORT
THE COOKERY SCHOOL
WHERE Swinton Cookery
School, Yorkshire
(food.swintonestate.com)
THE COURSE Spanish Tapas
Temptations, £85 for one-day course,
including a light lunch prepared during
the class, plus tea and coffee
TESTER Rebecca Almond
WHAT IT’S LIKE It’s a rare occasion when
you get to cook a Spanish tapas feast in
an imposing British castle, but this was
one such day. Driving into the Yorkshire
Dales National Park, the first glimpse of
the 20,000-acre Swinton Estate is nothing
short of breathtaking. The long driveway
snakes past manicured lawns where deer
graze freely, and up to the turreted castle.
The cookery school is in the converted
stables. I fell instantly for the kitchen.
There’s space aplenty, bright but not stark
lighting, and though the induction hobs
and granite worktops look professional,
the ambience feels more country kitchen.
WHAT I LEARNED Tutor Kevin Hughes is an
advocate of simple, delicious food.
“There’s no point in complicating
WHERE I STAYED
Swinton Park Hotel (hotel.swintonestate.com)
The jewel of the Swinton Estate is the
towering castle dating back to the 1800s.
Its 32 large rooms flaunt four-poster
beds and huge modern bathrooms with
posh toiletries and plush dressing
gowns, not forgetting the complimentary
sloe gin. As for the food, we enjoyed head
110 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
cooking,” he says. A former chef-lecturer
at Leeds City College, he joined Swinton
in January 2017 and is entirely at ease in
his role as head cookery school tutor.
Kevin’s energy is infectious – if the
welcome coffee hasn’t geed you up for the
day ahead, his introduction to the course
surely will. He talked us through the menu
and how we were to set about making the
dishes. He also offered to teach us anything
else we liked (apparently ‘how to poach an
egg’ is a popular request), then deftly
popped some proved dough into the Aga
to bake, ready for the impending feast.
There were just three of us on the course
(there’s room for 12) and the day was an
enjoyable mix of communal learning and
hands-on experiences, with some getting-
chef Mehdi Amiri’s stunning dishes in
the hotel’s 3-AA-rosette restaurant,
Samuel’s. Fancy something simpler?
Head to the bar for snacks, sandwiches
and classic brasserie-style grub.
Breakfast is a feast – arrive hungry.
B&B from £195 per room
YORKSHIRE TAPAS
In a grand setting, tutor
Kevin Hughes inspires at
Swinton Cookery School
to-know-you chat and lots of laughter.
Kevin demonstrated some of the dishes
(he prepped squid and clams to make
calamari with aïoli, and clams with sherry
and serrano ham); others we learned by
making them ourselves. A fellow course-
goer and I blackened peppers on a gas
hob while Kevin and another made
the marinade to transform them into
a wonderfully smoky tapas dish. With
concise, clear recipes and working under
Kevin’s expert eye, I felt comfortable
taking a station by myself to cook chorizo
in red wine (oh the aromas!) and a huge
Spanish tortilla made for sharing.
THE VERDICT The resulting spread of tapas
could have fed a dozen or more: a true fiesta
of food, and even though we were in a
sleepy corner of Yorkshire, the atmosphere
was equally lively. We all thrived off the
teaching, the relaxed feel and – crucially
– the fun of the day, as well as the quality
of dishes made by our own fair hands.
Kevin knows how to make learning about
food more than just interesting – he makes
it exciting. And that, in my book, is the
most important take-home skill of all.
The school is part of the Independent
Cookery Schools Association
(independentcookeryschools.co.uk).
 in the know.

THE MAKE-AT-HOM
ME
RECIPE
Spanish-inspired
potato omelette
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN ,
HOB TIME 35-40 MIN
Make the omelette up to 24 hours
MAKE in advance, cool and keep in a
AHEAD
sealed container in tthe fridge.
Serve cold or, to reheat, put on a baking
tray and warm through in a low oven.
• 1 onion, sliced
• 4 tbsp rapeseed oil
• 25g butter
• 400g waxy potatoes, finelyy sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 8 medium free-range eggss, beaten
• Handful fresh flatleaf parssley,
roughly chopped
1 Put the onion and oil in a medium frying
pan (with a lid) over a low-medium heat
and cook for 6-8 minutes until starting
to turn translucent and softe en.
RECIPE: SWINTON COOKERY SCHOOL. PHOTOGRAPH: KATE WHITAKER. FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON
2 Add the butter and sliced potatoes,
then quickly mix all the ingredients.
Cover with the lid and cook for 15 minutes
until the potatoes are tender, stirring
now and then to ensure even cooking.
3 Once the potatoes are soft, stir in the
garlic and cook for a further minute.
Beat the eggs in a jug and pour over
the potatoes. Put the lid back on and
cook gently on a low-medium heat for
15-20 minutes. Turn the omelette out
onto a board, then flip back into the pan
to cook the other side until fully set (firm
to the touch) and golden brown all over.
4 Carefully turn out the omelette and
serve in slices, warm or cold, sprinkled
with the chopped parsley.
PER SERVING 412kcals, 27.3g fat (7.1g
saturated), 18g protein, 21.9g carbs
(3.2g sugars), 0.6g salt, 3.2g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Open
a refreshing young Spanish
rosado or a modern
white such as
a verdejo. →

THE TAKE-
HOME TIPS
Kevin Hughes’
expert advice
• If you don’t have a
pestle and mortar or a
garlic crusher, put a
peeled garlic clove on a
chopping board, chop
roughly, sprinkle with
salt, then use the angled
blade of a chef’s knife to
scrape it back and forth
in a wave motion,
pressing down as you do
so to grind the garlic to a
paste. The salt acts as
the grinding element.
• For a vibrant yellow
mayo, use rapeseed oil
instead of olive oil.
• If your homemade
mayo or hollandaise is
too thick, stir in
a drop of warm water.
THE COOKBOOK
Goat: Cooking and Eating
by James Whetlor
(£20; Quadrille)
TESTED BY Susan Low

I first heard James Whetlor on a radio

programme several years ago, speaking
passionately about the ethical arguments in
favour of eating British goat meat. Whetlor
is the founder of Cabrito, which takes kid
goats from a nearby Devon dairy farm and
raises them for meat. (Cabrito was
shortlisted for a delicious. Produce Award
– see p16 – in 2016.) As is the case with veal
calves, young male goats have no role to
play on a dairy farm, so they’re routinely
euthanised soon after birth, a practice
Whetlor finds ethically questionable.
The same clear-eyed passion comes
across in his new book. The introductory
chapters are engagingly written, well
argued and unexpectedly absorbing.
Goats, he explains, were the first livestock
animals to be domesticated,
and even though they’ve
never been an important
meat animal in Britain
(sheep are better suited to NEW KID ON THE BLOCK
the terrain) they played an Aromatic Turkish-
important part in our style goat pilaf
ancestors’ transformation
from hunter-gatherers to
farmers. The goat’s history peanut curry and a Turkish- Cabrito’s online shop (cabrito.co.uk).
mirrors human history. inspired kid, cabbage and The solution? “Consumers have the
The ethical argument bulgur wheat pilaf, but power to make changes through the
comes across loud and clear I was also tempted by purchasing decisions they make,” Whetlor
too: “On a fundamental level Jamaican curry goat, writes. Without a market, kid goats will
I do not think it is right that Mexican kid mole and more. continue to be considered worthless – so
we allow an animal’s life to have Both recipes I cooked were paragons of demand your goat!
absolutely no value,” he writes. The goal of concise precision (wordy recipes drive me PHOTOGRAPHY AND DESIGN The cover is striking,
Cabrito, he says, is “to end the waste of the spare) and worked perfectly – not always and Mike Lusmore’s food photography is
male kids in the British goat dairy system”. the case with chefs’ recipes. The curry was clean and appealing. A small annoyance:
It’s refreshing to read a cookbook with spicy, nutty and rich, the pilaf had a hint the book’s a bit small, and it kept slamming
such a well argued rationale. of sweetness and aromatic spices. itself shut when I was cooking from it.
QUALITY OF THE RECIPES Whetlor worked as a The only tricky bit was buying the goat WHO’S IT SUITABLE FOR? Readers with an ethical
chef for 12 years in London before returning meat. Even at Borough Market where the sense. If helping to fuel the market for
home to Devon and working at River world’s most exotic ingredients come out ethical meat isn’t enough, half the royalties
Cottage, and some of the recipes in the to play, I had a job tracking it down. And from book sales will go to the Farm Africa
book are from fellow chefs such as Mark that brings us to a fundamental problem. charity, which works to reduce poverty in
PHOTOGRAPHS: MIKE LUSMORE

Hix and Gill Meller. Goat’s a popular meat
around the globe and the recipes are
suitably diverse, divided up by cooking
method: slow, quick, over fire, roast, baked
– but no dessert recipes, which is probably
a good thing. I opted for a West African
A book of recipes based on a single hard-
to-find ingredient is likely to have a small
market; and given this book’s quality, that’s
a shame. You could substitute lamb and the
recipes would (mostly) work just as well.
And you can buy various cuts of goat at
the Tigray region of Ethiopia. Want to be
part of the solution? Buy the book and/or
make the recipes (search ‘goat’ at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk for two of them)
and ask your butcher to stock goat meat.
VERDICT ++++ +
 in the know.

HOT NEW COOKBOOKS

A TABLE IN VENICE:
RECIPES FROM MY HOME
Author Skye McAlpine
is British by birth but
has lived in Venice since
childhood, absorbing
the city’s rich history
and food culture. The
home-style recipes and
photography are gorgeous,
as is Skye’s writing.
A beautiful, evocative
book for armchair
travellers and food lovers.
£26, Bloomsbury
JAPAN: THE COOKBOOK
Phaidon’s books are always
stunning and this one, written
by California-born Nancy
Singleton Hachisu, is no
exception: understated
photography and styling,
plenty of history and context,
and beautiful recipes for
everything from soups
and stir-fries to one-pots
and noodles. This isn’t
‘Japan-lite’; it’s the real
deal for Japanophiles.
£29.95, Phaidon, out 6 April
PRAWN ON THE LAWN: FISH
AND SEAFOOD TO SHARE
Authors Rick and Katie
Toogood own the combined
fishmonger’s and seafood
restaurants Prawn on the
Lawn in north London (see
p11) and Padstow in Cornwall.
These recipes for tapas-style
dishes, with plenty of Asian
and Euro influences, are
fuss-free and flavour-packed.
The book takes the fear factor
out of seafood cookery.
£18.99, Pavilion Books
THE SOURDOUGH SCHOOL
Baker, author and teacher
Vanessa Kimbell runs
sourdough-baking
courses from her home in
Northamptonshire and this
well researched and
beautifully photographed
book is based on what she’s
taught her students. The clear
step-by-step photography
makes keeping sourdough
starters alive and baking
great bread look easy.
£19.99, Kyle Books, out 5 April

THE TAS TE TES T GREEK & GREEK-STYLE YOGURTS

HOW WE TEST
GREEK YOGURT GREEK-STYLE YOGURT
We conduct our tests without
packaging, so our tasters
don’t know who produced
each product or how much it
costs. And to prevent one
tester influencing another, the
panel aren’t allowed to confer
during the tests, so the results
you read here are unbiased.
SUPERMARKET SUPERMARKET BRANDED WINNER BRANDED SUPERMARKET SUPERMARKET
TASTE TEST WORDS: PHOEBE STONE. BOOK REVIEWS: SUSAN LOW

WHAT WE LOOKED FOR WINNER RUNNER-UP Yeo Valley Organic RUNNER-UP WINNER RUNNER-UP
Greek yogurt contains only
milk and live/active cultures,
M&S Greek Waitrose 1 Greek Style Tims Dairy Aldi Brooklea Asda Greek Style
and has been strained of much
Yogurt, £2.20 Greek Natural Natural Yogurt, Greek Style Greek Style Natural Yogurt,
of the whey. Although it doesn’t for 450g Strained Yogurt, £1.80 for 450g Natural Yogurt, Natural Yogurt, 80p for 500g
have Protected Destination of Immense body £1.89 for 500g Acidic tang £1.85 for 500g 68p for 500g A fluid, smooth
Origin status, Greek yogurt and creaminess An exceptionally balanced by lush Tangy with a This yogurt yogurt with a
sold in the UK must have been without being creamy, dairy- creaminess and good flavour has a medium- moreish lactic
made in Greece. If made dense. Nice rich yogurt great flavour. and whipped thick texture flavour and
elsewhere it must be called tartness and that’s full of The smooth cream texture. with a fresh clean finish.
Greek-style yogurt (and may
an appealing flavour. This texture makes it It’s nicely rich almost citrussy A good choice
be thickened artificially). Good
strained yogurt should be
snowy-white is refreshing, a perfect match but contains flavour and for whizzing
thick, creamy and smooth with appearance with a subtle for granola and cream and milk well rounded into fruity
a characteristic sour tang. make it the sharpness. cereal. Major solids. Asda, aftertaste. smoothies. →
overall winner. supermarkets Ocado, Waitrose

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 113
in the know.

pasta maker and mincing IT CAN MIX IT

THE GADGE T attachment are available, but you WITH THE BEST
Solid kitchen
Bosch Optimum have to pay extra for them. workhorse
9GX5S21 £700, ANY DRAWBACKS? Carries a fairly that quietly
hefty price tag. The mixing tools gets on with
John Lewis
go into the motor head at an the job
TESTER Aggie MacKenzie
awkward angle, which takes a bit
of getting used to. I found it almost
WHY BOTHER? If you’re looking for impossible to take the liquidiser
a fully-specced but gimmick-free, apart for cleaning – it was a
grown-up, robust kitchen machine two-person job. Afterwards
that will fulfil all your food prep it was fiddly to reassemble.
needs, this should meet the mark. THE VERDICT? If you’re
WHAT’S GOOD ABOUT THIS ONE? It’s designed a serious cook and
for the serious cook. Built-in scales want to invest in
(though they only measure in a machine you’ll get
5g increments so there’s a margin a lot of use from, this
for error in precision baking) and is worth looking at.
built-in timer so you can preset the If you have a John
(quiet) motor. It comes with a solid Lewis near you, I’d
glass liquidiser and a huge stainless recommend asking
steel bowl (with cover) that takes up them for a
to 12 egg whites/1.5kg flour. There’s demonstration
a neat retracting cable too. Useful to get a feel for
accessories such as a citrus press, how it works.

WIN a knife set worth £576

C
ook any recipe from the magazine this month and
send us a picture for your chance to win a set of
three ZWILLING Diplôme kitchen knives,

*CLOSING DATE 30 APRIL 2018. FOR FULL T&CS GO TO DELICIOUSMAGAZINE.CO.UK/COOKTHERECIPE

plus a magnetic storage block. Made in Seki, Japan,
by one of the world’s oldest manufacturers of
COOK IT
top-quality kitchen products, the ZWILLING
LIKE
Diplôme knife series has been developed together delicious.
with Le Cordon Bleu school of culinary arts.
The winner will receive the three knives essential
to every kitchen – and every good cook – pictured from top
Pure precision left: chef’s knife, Japanese-style santoku
uk if and
knife d paring
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in your kitchen – knife, along with a magnetic bamboo block
keep them to hand
allowing you to store your new knives safely.
with this magnetic
bamboo knife block Manufactured using a special steel thaat’s
also used for razor blades, the range is
designed for ease of use, whether you’re left
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FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN…
Make any recipe from the April issue,
take a photograph and share it with us* FEBRRUARY’S
WINNNER
• Nikola Bakošová
TO ENTER & FOR Ts&Cs, GO TO deliciousmagazine.co.uk/cookthereciipe winss a Michelin-
starrred break

114 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

LOOSE ENDS
Don’t let this month’s special ingredients linger in your kitchen.
Instead make the most of them with these smart and easy ideas
BROWN MISO
MISO SOUP
FROM
SAPPORO- Bring 1 litre
STYLE BUTTER
CORN MISO water to a low
RAMEN
P119
simmer in a
medium pan. Mix
50g brown miso with a splash
of hot water, then add to the pan
with a bunch of chopped spring
onions, 150g seasonal green
vegetables and a couple of
nests of dried noodles. Simmer
for 5 minutes. Serve with sliced
red chilli and fresh coriander.
MISO VINAIGRETTE
Whisk together 2 tbsp brown
miso, 1 tbsp rice vinegar, 1 tbsp
soy sauce, 1 tsp crushed palm
WORDS: HOLLY HOLMES AND OLIVIA SPURRELL. ILLUSTRATIONS: ALICE CLEARY
sugar (or granulated sugar),
a pinch of chilli flakes and
2 tbsp toasted sesame oil.
Use to dress Asian salads.
MISO-BAKED SALMON
Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C
fan/gas 6. Mix 2 tbsp brown
miso, 1 tbsp honey, 1 tbsp
mirin, 1 tbsp soy sauce and
½ tsp toasted sesame oil in
a large bowl. Put 2 salmon
fillets in the bowl, cover with
the marinade and marinate,
skin-side up, for up to an hour.
Drain the salmon (discard
marinade), wrap in foil and bake
leftovers.
for 10-15 minutes. Serve with rosemary and orange syrup’. anise and a cinnamon stick.
steamed rice and green veg. When making the syrup, infuse Heat very gently over a low
with a few strands of saffron heat for 30 minutes (don’t let
PECORINO instead of rosemary. the oil bubble). Cool, strain,
SPRING LUNCH SAFFRON COCKTAILS then store in sterilised jars
FROM
ASPARAGUS, Sprinkle grated Make a saffron syrup: gently or bottles for up to 6 months.
PEA &
MINT pecorino over heat 175ml water, 4 tbsp lime
RISOTTO
P22
griddled juice, 225g sugar, 5 crushed PALM SUGAR
asparagus and cardamom pods and 5 saffron RICE PUDDING
FROM
top with a poached egg. threads in a pan until the sugar THAI STYLE WITH COCONUT
SHAVED RADISH SALAD has dissolved and the saffron TUNA AND
BROCCOLI Put 50g palm
SALAD
Finely slice 200g mixed radishes has infused. Strain, then stir in P49
sugar and 50g
(such as watermelon radish, the grated zest of 1 lime. Add desiccated
mooli and breakfast radish). 2 tbsp of the syrup to vodka coconut over a low heat in
Toss with a drizzle of truffle and lemonade or gin and tonic. a saucepan until melted and
oil, a squeeze of lemon juice, Serve with lime wedges. starting to caramelise. Pour
chopped fresh parsley leaves over rice pudding and sprinkle
and shavings of pecorino. SICHUAN PEPPER with lime zest to serve.
PECORINO GOUGÈRES SICHUAN SWEET GINGER TEA
FROM
Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk TOFU WITH PEPPER AND Put 3 English breakfast teabags
and search for ‘rarebit stuffed CARAMEL
AND SICHUAN GARLIC STEAKS in a teapot, pour over 1 litre
PEPPER
gougères’. When making the P58
Pan-fry rump boiling water, then add a 5cm
choux pastry, replace the or sirloin steak, piece of sliced fresh ginger,
parmesan with pecorino and basting in melted butter mixed 50g palm sugar and 5 bruised
top with extra grated pecorino. with crushed garlic. For the cardamom pods. Leave to infuse
last 2 minutes of cooking, for 5 minutes before drinking.
SAFFRON add a few crushed sichuan GINGER FLAPJACKS
ORANGE peppercorns to the butter Replace the demerara sugar
FROM POLENTA CAKE and use to baste the steaks. in ginger flapjacks with palm
SAFFRON
LOAF WITH SAFFRON Serve with steamed pak choi. sugar and replace 50g of the
P39
SYRUP SPICED STIR-FRY OIL jumbo oats with coconut flakes.
Visit delicious Pour 500ml rapeseed oil into Search ‘easy ginger flapjack
magazine.co.uk and search a deep pan with 3 tbsp sichuan bars’ at deliciousmagazine.co.
for ‘orange polenta cake with peppercorns, 5 whole star uk for a good recipe.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 115
 CULINARY
PILGRIMAGES
Dishes worth travelling for
‘It’s not the destination but the journey that counts’ or so the saying
goes. But for the highly food-motivated, it’s what’s waiting on your
plate at journey’s end that is most important. Here, chefs and food
writers Russell Norman, Tim Anderson and Nuno Mendes share the
destinations and dishes that have inspired them most

CITY OF WONDERS, CLOCKWISE FROM

THIS PICTURE Venice’s Grand Canal;
the Rialto bridge leads to the
colourful market; traditional
bàcaro (wine bar) All’Arco

A VENETIAN PILGRIMAGE
Russell Norman on the dishes that entice him to Italy’s most beautiful
of cities – as many times as life will allow
Venice is an easy
city to love. It’s
breathtakingly
beautiful, famously
romantic, steeped
in fascinating history and full of
architectural gems and priceless
art. It also has a unique cultural
identity which, when you scratch
the surface, reveals a fiercely proud
population with an impressive
culinary heritage.
I’ve been visiting for over
30 years, sometimes as a tourist,
once as a honeymooner, most
recently to research its markets,
produce and home cooking for
my new book. In fact, since
autumn 2016 I’ve been living
here, writing (and eating).
It will come as no surprise, then,
to hear I have developed quite a
taste for Venetian food. In fact,
there are some dishes I associate so
strongly with the city that a trip
here gets my taste buds tingling
before I have even set off.
PHOTOGRAPHS: JENNY ZARINS, ISTOCK, GARETH MORGANS. FOOD STYLING: REBECCA WOOLLARD. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS
I love the deliciously light veal
meatballs at Trattoria Ca d’Oro
Alla Vedova (Calle Ca’ d’Oro,
Cannaregio 3912; Tel: +39 041 528
5324), always stacked high at the
bar and so popular that occasionally
they disappear faster than the
kitchen can fry them. Then there is
the delicate and tender fritto misto
at Paradiso Perduto (ilparadiso
perduto.wordpress.com), vying for
pole position with their cacio e
pepe, a masterclass in superlatively
comforting cheesy pasta.
But the dish I come back for,
time and time again, is the baccalà
mantecato at All’Arco (Calle de
l’Ochialer San Polo 436). This
traditional recipe, so typical of
Venice and the Veneto, could
arguably be its signature dish. It’s
a meticulous preparation that
involves soaking dried salt cod for
48 hours in frequently refreshed
cold water, flaking the flesh into a
large bowl with a little garlic and
parsley, then beating vigorously
for several minutes with a large
wooden spoon while introducing
a thin stream of olive oil. The result
is a fluffy white mousse of such
delicacy and flavour that
moderation is impossible.
But even more than the dish that
draws me there, it’s the place itself
that I would nominate as the object
of my pilgrimage. All’Arco is a
bàcaro, a small bar serving Venetian
snacks and local wines. It’s about
the size of a suburban domestic
kitchen with room for just 20 people
standing. But it serves some of the
best food in Venice. Because of the
limited space and restricted cooking
facilities (there’s a single hob and a
Scratch the surface
and the city reveals
a fiercely proud
population with an
impressive culinary
heritage
basin), most of what father and son
Francesco and Matteo make is
artfully constructed on small toasts
(crostini), or on slabs of grilled
polenta. They are guided entirely by
the nearby Rialto food market and
will only use ingredients that are in
season and of exceptional quality.
It is the philosophy of All’Arco
that I summon here with my spring
offering of English asparagus,
gorgonzola, toasted walnuts and
mint on grilled sourdough. Italian
cooking is all about keeping things
simple and using the freshest
ingredients you can find. In the
spirit of that tiny place, the only
cooking equipment you need is a
griddle pan and a hob to heat it on.
Russell Norman’s latest book, Venice:
Four Seasons of Home Cooking (£26;
Fig Tree), is out now.
Russell’s asparagus, gorgonzola,
walnut and mint bruschetta
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
If you’re not
FOOD
TEAM’S a fan of blue
TIP
cheese, replace
the gorgonzola with feta
for a salty, savoury hit.
• 50g walnut halves
• 125g fine asparagus
• 4 thick slices
sourdough bread
• ½ garlic clove
• 120g gorgonzola
(see tip)
• Extra-virgin olive oil
to drizzle
• A few sprigs fresh
mint, roughly torn
1 Heat a large dry
griddle pan over a high
heat for a minute or so
until smoking hot. Toast
the walnuts for a couple
of minutes, turning
frequently, until toasted
but not burnt, then chop
roughly and set aside.
2 Lay the asparagus
spears carefully across
the griddle pan and cook
for 2-3 minutes on each
side until softened and
charred. Remove from
the pan and set aside.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 117
hungry traveller.
3 Toast the sourdough
in the same pan for a
minute or so until griddle
lines appear, then flip
over and toast the other
side. Turn off the heat
and transfer the grilled
sourdough slices to a
board or 4 plates.
4 Rub one side of each
slice of bread lightly
with the garlic, then
gently crumble over the
gorgonzola. Cut the
asparagus in half
lengthways (or leave
whole as in the picture),
then lay evenly on top of
the cheese. Drizzle over
a little olive oil and
sprinkle over the toasted
walnut pieces, mint,
a pinch of salt and a
twist of black pepper.
PER SERVING 359kcals,
22.4g fat (7.6g saturated),
13.7g protein, 24.3g
carbs (2.3g sugars),
1.8g salt, 2.8g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE
The Piedmont white grape
arneis is just right here,
light and dry with a nutty
hint – or go for gavi. →

NOODLE NIRVANA IN JAPAN
5JN "OEFSTPO àOET IJT TQJSJUVBM IPNFGSPNIPNF JO 4BQQPSP
In 2005 I was awarded
a research grant to
study noodles in
Japan. It was amazing
fun, if uncomfortable
because of my shoestring budget.
For example, I stayed at a hostel
called Kyoto Cheapest Inn, where
I slept on a linoleum floor and was
charged extra for pillows. I also
recall a gruelling 13-hour train
journey that made me feel like my
ass was going to fall off.
My research took me to noodle
hotspots around Japan. I loved
everywhere I went but Sapporo, on
Japan’s northernmost island of
Hokkaido, was my favourite. As a
Wisconsin boy who loves Japanese
food, Sapporo resonates with me.
Let me explain: Hokkaido was
once considered a frozen, barbaric
wasteland, largely because the
climate there doesn’t support many
Japanese staples, particularly rice.
But in the late 1800s, the Japanese
government hired European and
118 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
SAPPORO, A NORTHERN
STAR, CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT City lights and
nightlife; ramen shop;
Sapporo brewery beer
hall; quirky Mugishutei
beer bar; spiny crabs
ready for cooking
American agriculturalists to help
establish food industries suited to
Hokkaido’s chilly prairies, and the
island became known for foods
atypical of a traditional Japanese
diet, including sausages, sweetcorn,
lamb, potatoes, milk and, of course,
barley and hops, to be made into
the world-famous Sapporo beer.
Bizarrely, many of these are the
same things I grew up with in
Wisconsin, which has a similar
climate and terrain, and a similar
history of Northern European-style
farming. And when these hearty,
Germanic-Midwestern flavours
combine with Japanese ingredients
and dishes, you get some of the
most satisfying and delicious food
on the planet.
But it isn’t just the Wisconsinian
comfort foods that make Sapporo
special. I fondly recall dining at an
Ainu restaurant there, a once-in-a-
lifetime experience considering how
few exist. The Ainu, indigenous to
Hokkaido, now number just 25,000
and the restaurant I went to was
actually in an Ainu family’s home.
Their generosity and warmth stood
out. I was their only guest, so I got
to spend a lot of time talking to
them – in severely broken Japanese
and English. It was a wonderful
experience, the food was lovely
– simple dishes featuring foraged
vegetables, game and salmon – but
the memory that stands out the
most is when the patriarch learned
I was from Wisconsin and said,
“Ah! Green Bay Packers!” – our
The food resonates
with me personally, as
a Wisconsin boy who
loves Japanese food
beloved football team. That was just
one of many highlights from my
first trip to Sapporo.
I loved the city so much that
I went back in 2007. The local
speciality known as Genghis Khan
– thinly sliced lamb and vegetables,
barbecued at the table – is
unmissable, especially if you have it
inside the 19th-century beer hall at
 hungry traveller.

Tim’s Sapporo-style butter corn miso ramen

SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 10 MIN

the Sapporo Brewery (sapporo-bier-
garten.jp). Then there’s the local
salmon and its glistening orange
roe, served as sushi or piled onto
rice bowls. The crab is a must as
well, especially if it’s from Kani
Honke (kani-honke.jp), where
spiny specimens shuffle around in
PHOTOGRAPHS: TIM ANDERSON, ISTOCK, FAITH MASON. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR
Complete the recipe
MAKE
AHEAD to the end of step 3
up to 48 hours
ahead. Keep the broth,
mince, garlic, spring onions
and sweetcorn in separate
airtight containers in the
fridge. Reheat the broth and
mince separately, then
complete the recipe from
step 4 to serve.
• 1.2 litres good quality
fresh chicken stock
• 10g dried mushrooms
(shiitake, porcini, or any
kind will do)
• 120g brown miso (use red
miso or barley miso if you
can get it)
• 4 spring onions
• 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra
for frying, if needed
• 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 198g tin sweetcorn, drained
• 1 small red onion, roughly
chopped
• 2 anchovy fillets in oil,
drained
• 250g pork mince
• 1 tsp chilli flakes
the pan and whisk to
dissolve, keeping the broth
at a low simmer. Meanwhile,
bring 2 litres water to the
boil in a separate saucepan.
2 Finely slice the green parts
of the spring onions and set
aside. Coarsely chop the
white parts. Put the 2 tbsp
oil in a frying pan over a
low-medium heat and add
the garlic, frying slowly until
golden and crisp (take your
time with it; don’t let the oil
get too hot or it will burn).
Remove the garlic from the
oil with a slotted spoon and
drain on kitchen paper.
3 Return the pan to a high
heat and add the sweetcorn.
Cook for 3-4 minutes until
browned, then remove with
a slotted spoon and set
aside. Add a little more oil to
the pan if needed and return
to a high heat. Add the
spring onions (white parts)
and the red onion. Fry for
4-5 minutes until starting
to colour, then add the
anchovies and mash into the
sesame seeds, pepper,
remaining miso and the
mushrooms, then stir-fry for
8-10 minutes until the pork
is cooked through and
slightly browned, breaking
up any chunks of mince or
miso. Remove from the heat.
4 Blanch the cabbage and
beansprouts in the pan of
boiling water for 30-60
seconds, then remove with
a slotted spoon to a bowl and
toss with the sesame oil.
5 Cook the noodles in the
same pan of water according
to the pack instructions. Stir
the broth, then ladle into
4 warmed deep bowls. Drain
the noodles and divide among
the bowls, top with the other
ingredients and, finally, add
the butter just before serving
so it doesn’t fully melt before
it gets to the table.
PER SERVING 609kcals, 32g
fat (12.4g saturated), 17.6g
protein, 59.3g carbs (11g
sugars), 4.3g salt, 6.8g fibre
TIM’S TIP Enjoy piping hot
with a cold Sapporo beer.

artificial ponds before being
dispatched, then perfectly cooked.
And to go with? Beer, and lots of
it – whether it’s fresh local lager or
something more robust, Sapporo is
simply silly for suds. I’d recommend
paying a visit to Mugishutei
(mugishutei.com), the oldest
speciality beer bar in Japan, run by
a burly American named Phred.
He’ll sort you out with some truly
world-class (and dangerous)
imperial stouts and barley wines.
But my favourite example of the
wonderful fusions found in
Hokkaido cuisine is Sapporo’s
famously rich miso ramen, topped
with slowly melting butter and
plump sweetcorn – hard to find in
restaurants outside Japan, but
actually surprisingly easy to
re-create at home, even if you’ve
never cooked Japanese food before.
• ½ tbsp white sesame oil using a spatula. Add the For more ideas for brown
seeds, toasted in a dry pan pork mince, chilli flakes, miso, see Loose Ends →
• ¼ tsp black or white pepper
• ¼ hispi cabbage (also
called pointed or
sweetheart cabbage), core
removed, roughly chopped
• 150g beansprouts
• 2 tsp toasted sesame oil
• 240g fresh or frozen ramen
noodles (or dried will do)
• 60g butter, divided into 4
1 Combine the chicken stock
and dried mushrooms in a
pan and bring to a simmer.
Bubble gently for 10 minutes
to rehydrate the mushrooms
and flavour the stock, then
remove with a slotted spoon,
squeezing them out as you
do. Chop roughly and set
aside. Add 80g of the miso to
 LISBON REVIVAL, CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT The beach has
happy memories for Nuno;
Lisbon spans the river
Tagus; seafood restaurants
pack the city; Portugal’s
famous pastéis de nata;
traditional tiled restaurant

NOSTALGIA FOR LISBON Lisbon) I’m sentimental about the

Nuno Mendes on the dishes that draw him back home, time and again
I was born and raised
in Lisbon and my first
food memories are
from there. I live in
London now but I go
back to Lisbon nearly every month.
I love the place. I chose to leave it
behind – for study first, then to see
the world – but I was always sad to
leave it. It has so much – beautiful
beaches, beautiful mountains. It’s a
port city and it was always a dynamic
city, a centre of cultural convergence.
It’s been influenced by its place at
the centre of the Age of Discovery,
when Portuguese sailors ruled the
waves and Lisbon seemed the
centre of the world.
NEXT The city has existed for more than
MONTH
Los Angeles on
1,000 years but what I’m enjoying
a shoestring now is that there’s a lot of youthful
budget energy, with young people pushing
things forward. It feels invigorated
and there’s a sense of optimism –
it’s great to be there now.
It wasn’t always that way. I’m 44
years old, and for most of my life my
memories are of Lisbon being a sad
place. We went through a lot of
difficult times – not just in the city
but throughout the country, during
the Salazar years – so it’s refreshing
to see my birthplace going through
such a positive era.
There are dishes I crave when I go
there. I have to eat pastéis de nata
(custard tarts) – everyone does. And
açorda, which is a very Portuguese
dish, a sort of bread porridge that
dates back to times of deep poverty
when basic ingredients had to be
stretched. Made with the right
seafood, it’s incredible.
Being a Lisboeta (a native of
beach – it’s a kind of saudade, a
longing for endless carefree days.
That clarion call of sun, sea, sand
and seafood is hard to resist. The
marisqueiras (shellfish restaurants)
around Guincho beach west of
Lisbon serve fabulous seafood
dishes. The quality of the fish
and seafood in the region is
I chose to leave
Lisbon behind but I
was always sad I had
to leave it
outstanding, and the way it’s
cooked… wow.
At Restaurante Panorama
Guincho (panorama-guincho.com)
they serve fantastic seafood and
rice dishes. In the seaside town of
Cascais, just outside Lisbon, there’s
Mar do Inferno (mardoinferno.pt)
where they make amazing seafood

120 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

rice and açorda. At both places the
settings are very special.
I have a lot of memories of going
to the seaside, first with my parents
and grandparents and later with my
partner. The people working there
knew my name and used to play with
me when I was a kid. My parents and
grandparents are gone now – but
even if I went there with my kids
now, people would probably start
playing with them. It has that kind
of feel. It’s special, that connection.
We’re known in Portugal for our
pork and clam dishes and this is the
most famous one. As a chef, I often
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDREW MONTGOMERY, ISTOCK
combine seafood and pork in the
same dish, which some people find
unfathomable. I smile when I hear
this as it’s perfectly normal back
home. The briny clam juices add
a delicious savouriness to the meat.
Nuno Mendes’ Lisboeta: Recipes from
Portugal’s City of Light (£26;
Bloomsbury) is out now. Photography
© Andrew Montgomery.
Nuno’s Alentejo-style pork and clams (carne de porco à alentejana)
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, PLUS 6 HOURS, OR OVERNIGHT, MARINATING
Marinate the pork up
MAKE
AHEAD to 12 hours ahead,
covered in the fridge.
You can find Ibérico
FOOD
TEAM’S pork fat online at
TIPS
souschef.co.uk, or
substitute lard.
• 300g pork loin or neck, cut
into 2cm cubes
• 2 tbsp Ibérico pork fat
(see tips)
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 70ml dry white wine, plus
extra for cooking
• Generous pinch smoked
paprika (pimentón)
• 300g clams
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• Freshly squeezed orange
juice, to taste, plus wedges
to serve
• Handful fresh coriander
leaves, finely chopped
• Drizzle extra-virgin olive oil
1 In a bowl, mix the pork,
pork fat, bay leaves,
garlic, 70ml wine and
paprika. Cover and leave
to marinate in the fridge
for 6 hours, or ideally
overnight (see Make Ahead).
2 Rinse the clams under
running water and discard
any open ones. Drain the
pork from the marinade
(reserve the marinade), heat
the olive oil in a large lidded
pan over a medium heat, add
the pork and cook for a few
minutes until browned all
over. When the pork is
almost cooked, add the
clams along with an extra
hungry traveller.
splash of wine, the
reserved marinade and
orange juice. Cover and cook
for 2 minutes, then discard
any unopened clams.
Remove the pan from the
heat, stir in the coriander
and toss well. Taste and
adjust the seasoning and
drizzle with extra-virgin
olive oil. Serve straight from
the pan with orange wedges
alongside. Sautéed potatoes
would be great with this.
PER SERVING 214kcals,
10.3g fat (3.1g saturated),
21.6g protein, 2.7g carbs
(1.8g sugars), 1g salt,
0.5g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE
A dry, aromatic white from
Portugal’s Douro Valley is
the best choice.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 121
hungry traveller.
GREAT ESCAPES
Whatley Manor:
luxury in the Cotswolds
MICHELIN-STARRED WHY IT’S GREAT First impressions count,
COTSWOLD CHARM
Oysters with
they say, and the manor’s long drive
seaweed are on and grand gates set expectations
the tasting menu high. While the bags were quietly
created by chef whisked off, we were given a quick
Niall Keating –
above in the hotel tour: private cinema (£40 to hire,
kitchen garden; with popcorn); a new 12-seater
our writer hailed Green Room for ‘food adventures’;
the bed ‘the most
and a luxury spa with hydrotherapy
comfortable ever’
pool. Expectations fulfilled.
THE FOOD BIT Executive chef Niall
Keating took over The Dining Room
restaurant at the start of 2017 and
soon earned a Michelin star for his
12-course tasting menu (Wed-Sun
eves). There’s no à la carte, so if you
don’t fancy downing a dozen little
courses, opt for the more casual
Grey’s Brasserie for steaks, pasta,
fish and the like: three courses, £35.
The Dining Room menu is
fashionably terse: ‘Tortellini, black’
was a single tortellini (tortellino?) of
squid ink pasta filled with minced
pork and black garlic; it burst in the
mouth releasing rich gingery broth.
Some of the courses were exquisite
122 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
(smoked eel tempura; aloe vera
sorbet with pickled grape and citrus
oil beads); some very good (oyster,
seaweed mignonette; kohlrabi, wood
ear); and others a bit hit and miss
– the ‘egg white custard, noodles,
chicken broth’ didn’t work for me
texture-wise, and one course was
simply the lightest sourdough roll
with the creamiest butter – it was
good bread, but strange.
The matching wine flight veered
towards the biodynamic and natural,
and head sommelier Daniel Davies
poured with wit and charm. Adding
to the theatricality, chefs sometimes
brought the food to the table and
talked you through the dishes. By the
end I was exhausted – I don’t think
I’ve ever concentrated so hard and
for so long on nuances of flavour.
THE ROOMS Large and luxurious. The
biggest, most comfortable bed I’ve
ever slept in. I cheered the dead-
simple ‘all lights out’ button by the
bed – complicated lighting systems
drive me insane (ditto shower taps).
WHAT’S NEARBY The hotel gardens are
pretty in spring, but if you love plant
life make a beeline for the stunning
Abbey House Gardens nearby – and
don’t forget to look in on the tomb of
Athelstan, the first king of England,
in the 12th-century abbey. Prince
Charles’s gardens at Highgrove are
also within striking distance as is
Westonbirt Arboretum. But, to be
honest, you’ll be doing well if you
manage to drag yourself from your
comfy bed as far as the spa.
WORDS: HUGH THOMPSON. *OFFER VALID UNTIL END OF JUNE 2018
WHAT’S NOT SO GREAT No kettle in the
room for tea, only a pod coffee
machine. Breakfast was fine – lovely
Yorkshire Dales yogurt with healthy
choices alongside the usual full
English – but lacking the wow factor.
COST From £325 per night including
breakfast; £110 for 12-course tasting
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deliciousmagazine.co.uk 123
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FOOD LOVER’S CROSSWORD
No. 52
See how much you really know about
the world of food with Hugh Thompson’s
culinary conundrum. Answers next month
ACROSS
1 Poison found in water and soil – also present in rice (7)
6 Swiss dish of grated potato that’s fried as a flat disc (5)
7 Sicilian Easter cake with ricotta, marzipan and candied fruit (7)
9 Atholl _____ : Scottish oatmeal, whisky and cream liqueur (5)
10 Anglo-Indian word for a snack – also a chocolate fridge cake (6)
13 Offal (rare these days) with the texture of soft scrambled eggs (6)
15 Informal name for cheap wine (5)
17 In 1913 the Kaiser said to 4 down, “I am the _______ of Germany,
you are the _______ of chefs” (7)
18 Wicker fishing basket, also a trap for lobsters and crabs (5)
19 Russian dumpling – a pasta shell filled with meat or fish (7)
DOWN
1 Large rectangular pork pie without hard-boiled eggs (5)
2 Another name for vitamin B3, often added to cereals (6)
3 Tasty decapod crustacean, good potted or dressed (4)
4 French chef who modernised 19th century professional cooking (9)
5 Alcoholic drink made from fermented apple juice (5)
8 Thistle-like plant whose seeds are crushed for vegetable oil (9)
11 Strong style of Belgian beer – surprisingly not thrice brewed (6)
12 Seed, fruit, root, bark or part of a plant used to flavour food (5)
14 Seasonal Norwegian cod from the Barent’s Sea – highly prized (5)
16 Brown seaweed popular in Japan, now common in health shops (4)
Solution to no. 51 ACROSS: 1. Ginseng 6. Ounce 7. Robusta 9. T-bone 10. Mildew
13. Coburg 15. Latte 17. Edamame 18. Canal 19. Sherbet DOWN: 1. Garum 2. Easter
3. Goat 4. Angostura 5. Jerez 8. Ballotine 11. Lovage 12. Pluck 14. Ghent 16. Eels
128 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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THIS MONTH WE ASKED What dish are you looking forward to most in April?
Editor Karen Barnes Leftover hot cross buns
Deputy editor Susan Low Purple sprouting broccoli with anchovies, garlic and lemon
Editorial and features assistant Phoebe Stone Rhubarb crumble
Food editor Jennifer Bedloe April’s cover recipe – full of fresh green goodies
Acting food lifestyle editor Lottie Covell Purple sprouting broccoli – the best!
Cookery assistant Olivia Spurrell Wild garlic pesto tossed through pasta with lemon
Art director Jocelyn Bowerman Jersey royals with everything
Art editor Martine Tinney Jersey royals with butter and herbs
Managing editor Les Dunn Steamed asparagus with butter and lots of pepper
Deputy chief sub editor Hugh Thompson Asparagus with parmesan shavings
Senior sub editor Rebecca Almond Roast lamb with asparagus
Senior sub editor (maternity cover) Sara Norman Buttery, minty jersey royals
Wine editor Susy Atkins Gadget tester Aggie MacKenzie
Contributors Xanthe Clay, Lucas Hollweg, James Ramsden
Marketing director Julia Rich 020 7803 4129 Rhubarb crumble
Digital editor Rebecca Brett 020 7803 4130 Bank holiday brunch
Digital editor (maternity cover) Vic Grimshaw 020 7803 4130
Asparagus with poached egg
Digital producer Isabeau Brimeau Griddled asparagus with butter and garlic. Yum
Digital editorial assistant Ellie Donnell Spring roast lamb with potato dauphinoise
Podcast producer Gilly Smith Braised leeks (I’m Welsh)
With thanks to: Hebe Hatton, Alice Gossop, Holly Holmes,
Jesse Kempner, Sophie Rose-Hunt
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 for your iles.

APRIL 2018

RECIPE INDEX

42 83 32 22
STARTERS, SIDES & NIBBLES FISH & SHELLFISH • Sapporo-style butter corn • Spanish-inspired potato
• Charred broccoli with • Fish finger kimchi rice with miso ramen 119 omelette 111
anchovy and tahini sauce 50 edamame and a fried egg 83 • Sausage spaghetti with • Spinach dhal with roasted
• Dip and salad sharing • Hot-smoked salmon and spinach pesto 86 cauliflower and squash 91
platter 92 asparagus tart 93
• Fake-accia 98 • Mackerel with potato hash 83 POULTRY SWEET THINGS
• Homemade chips 40 • Mouclade 68 • Honey and mustard baked • Apple & blueberry frittata 99
• Leeks with Breton • Omelette Arnold Bennett with chicken and rice 87 • Chocolate and ginger studded
vinaigrette 67 horseradish & chives 28 • Lemon and garlic chicken frangipane galette 31
• Pork rillettes 67 • Prawn, cabbage & sichuan schnitzels with quick • Crepes dentelles with apples
• Red pepper, feta and olive pepper stir-fry 41 puttanesca sauce 85 and caramel 70
fake-accia 98 • Prawns with tamarind • Orange and tarragon chicken • Giant pan cookie 43
• Roast asparagus and red caramel and black pepper 58 traybake 92 • Hazelnut macaroon and
onion with farro 97 • Prawn, vegetable and quinoa • Oven-baked chicken, bacon chocolate fancies 46
• Shallot & dill marinated broth 89 & barley risotto 23 • Macaroons 44
beetroot carpaccio with • Smoked haddock and jersey • Roast chicken with buttery • Miso caramel banoffee
crispy halloumi 33 royal stew 18 stuffing balls 24 éclairs 60
• Spiced cauliflower • Thai-style tuna and broccoli • Chicken katsu 108 • Peach cake with raspberry
cheese 24 salad 49 sauce and ice cream 32
• Tofu with caramel and VEGETARIAN & VEG-BASED • Saffron and orange blossom
sichuan pepper 58 LAMB • Asparagus, gorgonzola, crème caramels with
• Watercress and pistachio • Lentil and kidney bean dhal walnut & mint bruschetta 117 cardamom and orange
soup 97 with fried lamb chops 90 • Asparagus, pea & mint rhubarb 63
risotto 22 • Saffron loaf 38
MAIN COURSES PORK • Butternut squash &
BEEF & GAME • Alentejo-style pork and cauliflower laksa with rice OTHER
• Cheesy Texas meatballs 72 clams (carne de porco à noodles 84 • Anchovy dressing 105
• Lighter cottage pie 100 alentejana) 121 • Crispy tortilla rice bowl 88 • Cream & tarragon
• Lightly cured pan-roast • Creamy chorizo spaghetti • Goat’s cheese & sun-dried dressing 105
pigeon with sorrel sauce with poached eggs 93 tomato risotto 22 • Ginger & soy dressing 105
and crispy bacon 54 • Nachos with pulled pork • Jollof beans (black-eyed • Kir Breton 67
• Slow-cooked beef stew 42 and sweetcorn salsa 28 beans in tomato sauce) 76 • Lemon curd 104

TERMS & CONDITIONS 1. All information forms part of the terms and conditions. 2. Open to UK residents 18 and over, except employees (and families) of Eye to Eye Media Ltd or any other associated
company. 3. Prizes are as offered. No cash alternatives. Subject to availability. 4. To enter, visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/promotions and follow the instructions. No purchase necessary. One entry per
household. 5. Emails will not be accepted and entries received after the closing date will not be considered. 6. No responsibility is taken for entries lost or delayed. 7. Winners selected by an independent
panel. The judges’ decision is final; no correspondence will be entered into. 8. Winners will be notified directly and the names listed at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/promotions. 9. Winners agree to take part in
publicity. 10. Information given will not be supplied to a third party. 11. Eye to Eye Media Ltd reserves the right to amend these Ts&Cs, or to cancel, alter or amend the promotion, if deemed necessary in its
opinion. SANDALS RESORTS COMPETITION Prize is a 7-night holiday at Sandals Grenada Resort & Spa including return economy flights from London for two adults. Accommodation is on a Luxury
Included® (all-inclusive) basis in a deluxe room with a king-size bed. Sandals Resorts reserves the right to relocate prize winners from the stated resort to an alternative Sandals resort if rooms become
unavailable for the travel dates requested. Prize must be taken before 30 April 2019. Prize subject to Sandals Resorts’ normal Ts&Cs and subject to availability; excludes peak seasons and cannot be
confirmed until 90 days prior to departure. Once dates are agreed an admin fee applies to change them. Blackout dates may apply, including 1 July to 31 August and 1-31 December 2018, 1 January to
Easter 2019 and select US bank holidays. Domestic transfers not included. Prize excludes telephone calls, spa treatments and other extras. By entering this competition you consent to your details being
shared with Sandals Resorts’ parent company located outside the European Economic Area. ABTA J3152. Promoter: Unique Vacations (UK) Ltd.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 129
a good rant.
I’m very sorry I tried to
eat at your restaurant
The new raft of no-bookings restaurants
are annoying enough without the additional
irritation of power-tripping door staf,
says writer and food lover Lauren Bravo
T
S Eliot declared April “the
cruellest month” – a sentiment
that seems confusing (had he not
met January?) until you find yourself
standing in the rain, without a brolly,
waiting for your dinner.
This season of sudden, squally showers
is all well and good if you’re watching
nature’s showcase through the windows
of an oven-warmed kitchen, but not if
you’ve set your sights on that impenetrable
fortress of the food scene: a restaurant that
doesn’t take reservations. The trend began
in London but, like the hype, it’s spreading
– so if your local pavements aren’t yet beset
by hordes of hungry punters, just wait.
The no-bookings restaurant brings
much to whinge about. There’s the panic
on approaching the place pre-6pm to find
a queue already snaking out the door.
There are the cold feet, the sharp elbows,
the slew of frantic WhatsApps. The having
to eat your dinner at either a geriatric
5:30pm or a basically-breakfast 10pm,
both of which necessitate extra meals to
keep you going. Not to mention never
being able to take your in-laws because
you don’t want to make them stand in the
street for an hour – or the difficulty for less
130 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
able diners who simply wouldn’t be able to
stand in the street for an hour, not even
for the best cacio e pepe in the world.
But my special peeve is reserved for the
door staff. Not the harried, apologetic
ones – lord knows they have enough to
put up with – but the ones who make you
feel like a total idiot for even daring to ask
for a table. You know, the power-trippers:
part bouncer, part St Peter with an iPad.
“I... I don’t suppose there’s any chance
of a table for two is there?” you whisper,
knowing before the words have left your
They make you feel like
an idiot for daring to ask
for a table… They’re part
bouncer, part St Peter
with an iPad
lips that the answer is going to be a mix
of pity and mockery. “Tchuh!” comes the
reply, a noise somewhere between a laugh,
snort and scoff. “We don’t have anything
until at least 9:45pm – two weeks on
Thursday.” Then they tell you to move out
of the way of the actual, sainted
customers, and try to sweep you out
like old crumbs. You apologise for your
audacity (imagine! Trying to arrange to
give them money in exchange for food!)
and reverse out, bowing, before going to
sit quietly in Burger King and think about
what you’ve done. Or perhaps you pout and
sigh, hoping if you look desolate enough
they might suddenly remember a secret
table by the loos and give it to you out of
pity. Or maybe you splutter and rage? It
doesn’t matter, because the end result is
the same. No dinner for you, chump.
I understand that the alternative to
the no-reservations approach is hot
restaurants with three-month waiting
lists, and nobody wants that either. But if
we’re stuck with no-bookings restaurants,
can we please curb the attitude that goes
with them? A sympathetic smile, that’s all
I ask. A tacit acknowledgement that this
whole hoopla is vaguely ridiculous, and
a “better luck next time”.
The warm welcome may indeed be
dispensable so long as there are queues
out the door, but every hot new place cools
off eventually – especially if it’s pouring.
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
So please don’t leave us with a sour taste
before we’ve even made it to a table.
Do you agree with Lauren or do you
take a different view? Tell us at
info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk and
we’ll print the best replies
 find your
Slow
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