AK

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CA
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DEAR FELLOW ENTHUSIAST

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CONGRATULATION`S ON YOUR CHOICE OF AN AK 427 COBRA KIT.

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THE AK 427 WAS INTRODUCED IN 1990 AND IS THE RESULT ENTHUSIASTS
LIKE YOURSELF WANTING TO SEE A QUALITY PRODUCT THAT WAS
STRONG WITH A FLEXIBILTY OF BUILD ENABLING THE USE OF
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DIFFERENT ENGINE GEARBOX COMBINATIONS COMBINED WITH THE
STRENGTH AND RELIABILITY OF JAGUAR RUNNING GEAR.

WE HOPE YOU HAVE MANY HOURS OF ENJOYMENT WITH YOUR BUILD,

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THE BUILD MANUAL IS FOR YOUR REFERENCE BUT REMEMBER WE ARE
ONLY A PHONE CALL OR E-MAIL AWAY SHOULD YOU NEED ANY HELP
OR ADVICE. WE CONTINUALLY STRIVE TO IMPROVE AND UPDATE
THE KIT AND MANY IMPROVEMENTS ARE DUE TO OUR HANDS ON
APPROACH AND AK OWNERS FEEDBACK.
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THE AK 427 IS DESIGNED WITH FLEXIBILITY IN MIND,YOU BUILD

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FROM THE BASIC CHASSIS BODY PACKAGE OR FROM A ROLLING

CHASSIS,WE EVEN DO TURNKEY OPTIONS,THIS FLEXIBILITY
ENABLES YOU TO SPREAD THE COST TO SUIT YOUR CIRCUMSTANCES.
AS WELL AS THE BASIC KIT,WE ALSO SUPPLY SOME OF THE SPECIALIST
PARTS REQUIRED IN THE BUILD WITH OPTIONS FROM STAINLESS STEEL
ENGINE BAY CLADDING TO HEADER TANK`S AND WASHER BOTTLES.
AK

WHATEVER YOUR REQUIRMENTS, AK WILL ENDEAVOR TO MEET YOUR

NEEDS

WE WISH YOU GREAT SUCCESS WITH YOUR PROJECT.

KEN , JON and DAN FREEMAN.

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INTRODUCTION

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WE WOULD ADVISE THAT YOU READ THIS BUILD MANUAL IN ITS
ENTIRETY SO AS TO FULLY FAMILIARISE YOURSELF WITH THE
CONTENTS HEREIN.
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ALTHOUGH EVERY EFFORT HAS BEEN MADE TO APPROACH THE
BUILD COMPREHENSIVELY, THIS IS NOT A DIFINITIVE WORK AND
IS INTENDED AS A GUIDE WITH WHICH TO ASSIST AND ADVISE YOU
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DURING THE BUILD PROCESS.

DUE TO THE VERY NATURE AND CONCEPT OF BUILDING A REPLICA

CAR IN COMPONENT FORM AND THE DIFFERENCES WITH WHICH
EACH CUSTOMER WILL APPROACH THEIR PROJECT, THERE IS GOING
TO BE AREAS NOT ADDRESSED, WITH THIS IN MIND THE CUSTOMER
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SHOULD APPROACH THE BUILD AWARE THAT THERE PARTICULAR

CHOICES WILL AFFECT THE FINAL OUTCOME.
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WITH THIS IN MIND WE ARE ALWAYS HERE TO HELP AND ADVISE

SHOULD ANY PROBLEMS AND/OR QUERIES ARISE?
WE HAVE SOLVED MANY PROBLEMS FOR PREVIOUS CUSTOMERS
DO NOT HESITATE TO ASK, YOU WONT BE THE FIRST.
AK

GOOD LUCK.

KEN, JON and DAN

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 CONTENTS

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CHAPTER ONE…………. Your AK 427
Specification
Engine and Gearbox options
AK 427 Kit contents

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Optional Parts Manufactured by AK
Donor list
Parts suppliers list and approximate costs
CHAPTER TWO…………. Preparation
Safety
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Tools
Workarea
CHAPTER THREE……… Chassis/Body
Chassis support and preparation
Body storage
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CHAPTER FOUR………… Running gear/Suspension

General information
Selection of suspension/Running gear
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Front suspension stripping/preparation

Rear suspension stripping/preparation
Ready to rebuild
CHAPTER FIVE………….. Chassis build
Front suspension fitting
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Rear suspension and differential fitting

Brake lines/pipes
Fuel tank
Fuel pump and fuel lines/pipes
CHAPTER SIX……………. Engine/ Gearbox/ Exhaust
General information
Fitting
CHAPTER SEVEN……….. Cooling System
Radiator/fitting
Header tank
Plumbing/hoses
Electric fans/thermostatic control

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CHAPTER EIGHT……….. Body/Fitting
Preparation/fitting body
Roll bar & seatbelt brackets
Windscreen
Door locks
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Screen washers
Boot Hinges/locks/bonnet stays
Lights/Head /Indicators/Brake/Number plate
Petrol filler/Pipework
Nudgebars/Overriders
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Seatbelts
CHAPTER NINE…………. Cockpit/components Mechanical
Pedal box assembly
Steering column
Handbrake
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Heating system
Wiper motor/wipers
Instrument panel/instruments/Switchgear
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CHAPTER TEN…………… Electrical

Wiring loom/Fitting
Cockpit
Engine bay
Dashboard
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Front lights
Rear lights
CHAPTER ELEVEN……… Cockpit/Components Upholstery
Carpets
Door panels
Seats
CHAPTER TWELVE…….. Finishing
Wheels/Tyres
Hood.

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 YOUR AK 427

SPECIFICATION

CHASSIS………………… Ladder frame construction of 75 x 50 x 3.2 section steel

for the main rails and 25 x 25 for the backbone section,
floors are paneled in 12 gauge steel for extra stiffness.
The chassis is jig assembled for accuracy of and comp-
nent fit ensuring correct suspension geometry
SUSPENSION……………. Front

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XJ6/POST 1974.Front Upper and lower wishbones,swivel
hub assembly,stub axles,AK supplied mounting plate for
coil over shocks,AK supplied coil over shock absorbers

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Rear
XJ6/POST 1974.Driveshafts and lower wishbones shortened
supplied by AK on an exchange basis,rear axle tie bars
supplied by AK,rear diff mounting bracket supplied by AK
rear hub assemblies.

SD1 steering columnSC

STEERING……………….. Rack and pinion modified and supplied by AK and Rover

BRAKING SYSTEM…….. Pedal box, servo, master cylinder (Dual circuit) sourced from
Morris Marina,Pedals modified by AK,or AK manufactured
pedal box using rover 214/216 master cylinder incorporated
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with front and Rear calipers and Discs (vented front) from
Jaguar XJ6.
FINAL DRIVE……………. Differential from Jaguar XJ6/12/s
RATIOS 3:54:1 for Rover 3500
3:31:1 Larger capacity(350 ci)
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3:07:1 With 4 speed box

2:88:1 Automatic box
Utilising Jaguar Or Rover Propshaft shortened to fit.
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BODY………………………. GRP body gel coated to customer choice constructed in mold

With only three main components (multi layered chopped
Glass mat layed for strength in key areas,Cockpit and Boot
Jig bonded to shell for accuracy and rigid monocoque,double
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Skinned Bonnet,Boot and Doors,complete with interior side

Panels and Dashboard.
WHEELS/TYRES.………… Halibrand replicas with spinners 16inch or 17inch,check with
AK for correct OFFSET.

ENGINE & GEARBOX APPLICATIONS

GENERAL INFO………….. The AK 427 is designed to accept various Engine and Gear
box combination`s, listed below are some that have been
applied previously to the AK chassis,and have proved to be
reliable,easily fitted and giving excellent performance in
keeping with the concept of the original.

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 YOUR AK 427

ENGINES………………….. ROVER V8, 3500cc/3900cc/4200cc/4500cc/5000cc/6300cc

Although expensive to tune in its standard forms ie 3.5ltr
3.9ltr and 4.2ltr this is a very capable engine of light weight
compared to alternatives and extremely reliable with an
output of 165bhp to240bhp,the tuned versions of all the
above whilst an expensive process can yield power outputs of
over 350bhp the power to weight ratio of this engine and its

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CHEVROLET (small block) 265ci/283ci/302ci/327ci/350ci
4 bolt mains, cast iron or aluminium cylinder heads,solid or

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hydraulic or solid lifters, power outputs of 170 bhp to 380bhp
achievable,these engines are easily obtainable and comparat
ively inexpensive to tune compared to the rover, although it
is heavier due to being a cast iron block.

FORD V8, 221ci/260ci/289ci/302ci/351ci the 289 being the

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original choice of these engines as fitted by Mr Shelby himself
like all the above Chevrolet engines the Ford power units
lend themselves to tuning with high outputs attainable

BIG BLOCK CHEVROLET AND FORD,whilst these engines

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Appeal is obvious,a tight fit and cooling can cause there own
headaches.

GEARBOXES……………… ROVER 5 speed for Rover engines

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CHEVEROLET,T5 or T10,Trimac or Getrag

FORD, T10 or 4 speed top loader or or any of the above as

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fitted to chevy with suitable adaptors.

AK

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 YOUR AK 427

LEADING DIMENSIONS
& DESIGN WEIGHTS

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ORT
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AK

AK 427 DESIGN WEIGHTS.

AXLE 1 638 kg

AXLE 2 780 kg

GROSS 1400 kg

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 YOUR AK 427

AK 427 KIT CONTENTS

CHASSIS…………………………Ladder type with partial backbone and full steel lowered

Floors

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BODY…………………………….Finished in white gel coat,(colours optional)

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• scuttle hoop bonded into full inner tub
• body temporarily bolted to chassis
• doors and bonnet pre-hung
• top and bottom radiator frame
• steering rack
• track rod ends
•
•
•
•
steering arms
steering rack to column extention SC
front shock absorber mounting plates
engine and gearbox mounting plates
•
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wiper motor bracket (attached to scuttle hoop)
• steering column bracket (attached to scuttle hoop)
• handbrake mounting bracket
• handbrake cable
• rear axle tie bars
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• shortened rear wishbones (exchange)

• shortened driveshafts (exchange)
• roll bar mountings
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• front and rear nudge bar mounting brackets

• dashboard (blank)
• interior trim panels
• glove box moulding
• modified pedal box (exchange)
•
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all body holes marked or pre-cut

• holes drilled and tapped for door locks
• rear differential mounting bracket

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 YOUR AK 427

OPTIONAL PARTS SUPPLIED BY AK

(all prices plus VAT)

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COIL OVER SHOCKS (6 of)

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PETROLTANK STAINLESS STEEL (14 gall)

HEADER TANK (stainless steel polished)

WASHER BOTTLE (stainless steel polished)

REAR WHEEL ARCH STONEGUARDS

(stainless steel)
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SIDE VENT`S (stainless steel)
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BONNET AND BOOT GAS RAMS plus fitting kit

STAINLESS STEEL ENGINE BAY CLADDING

(cut and folded)
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STAINLESS STEEL ENGINE BAY CLADDING

(fitted prior to delivery)
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SEAT SHELL`S

SEATS --- LEATHER

SEATS --- VINYL

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UNDERFLOOR EXHAUST SYSTEM and MANIFOLDS

STAINLESS STEEL SIDEPIPES and MANIFOLDS

AK MANUFACTURED PEDAL BOX –

uses ROVER 214/216 servo/master cylinder

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 YOUR AK 427

DONOR PARTS LIST

JAGUAR POST 1974 (VENTILATED FRONT DISCS)

FRONT AXLE GET SCRAP YARD TO CUT OFF COMPLETE SUBFRAME

REAR AXLE COMPLETE ON SUBFRAME

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RATIOS 3.54:1 For 3500 Rover engine
3.31:1 Larger capacity engines

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3.07:1 For 4 speed gearbox
2.88:1 With autobox

PROP SHAFT Jaguar (or Rover prop)

JAGUAR XJS

HAND BRAKE ASSEMBLY

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(or new item from Jaguar approx £60:00)
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ROVER SDI
RADIATOR (standard for Rover 3500, 3 row core No BTP 1019 for larger capacity engines)
STEERING COLUMN (complete with attachment bolts and lower column support bracket)
ENGINE AND GEARBOX
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REV COUNTER (use chip to convert triumph or Jag to 8 cyl)

WASHER BOTTLE & PUMP (small bottle)
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MARINA or ITAL
DUAL CIRCUIT PEDAL BOX COMPLETE or AK manufactured pedal box assembly
WIPER MOTOR,GEARBOXES & CONNECTING TUBES
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POLO MK1

HEATER

TRIUMPH

ACCELERATOR PEDAL
DASH WITH ALL CLOCKS (2.5 or dolomite or Jaguar)

ALLEGRO or METRO

2 ELECTRIC RADIATOR FANS

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 CHAPTER TWO

PREPARATION

SAFETY………………….. There are many dangers in the workshop,we cannot stress

enough the need for safety, you need to be aware of the inherent hazards surrounding you whilst
building and stripping mechanical components and in using electrically operated power tools.

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REMEMBER…

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DO DON`T
Use eye protection when using power Attempt to lift heavy components without aid
tools,and when welding or under the always get help.
vehicle.
Take short cuts to finish a job.
Keep loose clothing and long hair out
of the way of tools and moving parts.

Remove rings wristwatches and any-

Thing that may get caught.
SC Use damaged or ill fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.

Leave tools or parts or oil and fuel spills lying

Around always clean up.
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Ensure that jacking equipment/axle
stands have sufficient load capacity. Allow children or pets near the vehicle whilst
it is supported on jacks/stands, or whilst using
If working alone get someone to check power tools/welding equipment
on you periodically
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Smoke near inflammable chemicals

Make sure you have sufficient time to
complete tasks
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The completion of this project is more easily embarked upon if you use common sense when
applying safety procedures and cleanliness in the work area as part of your routine before
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and after and during the build process each day.

GRP. Glass reinforced plastic (fibreglass) is a hazardous material and adequate precautions
should be taken in its use and preparation,

HAZARDS.

I. Dust in the air from filing, drilling, cutting and sanding.

II. Sharp edges and splinters.
III. Fumes from resin.

WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING ,FACEMASK and KEEP WORK AREA WELL

VENTILATED.

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DUST. Can cause irritation to the eyes and skin, block nasal passages and cause respiratory
Problems clean all work area after working with GRP. ie. After sanding, cutting and
Drilling.

EYES. Wear protective eye glasses whilst carrying out operations with electrical tools, such
As grinding, drilling, sanding.

FIRE. The workshop will be full of combustible materials and the fire hazard cannot be
Overstated, it is in your own interest to invest in a fire extinguisher and take simple
precautions to prevent the risk of fire.

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I. NO SMOKING in the workshop.

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II. ALL PETRO CHEMICALS stored in a steel locker/drawer
III. ELECTRICAL TOOLS unplugged and wire coiled neatly (trip hazard).
IV. RAGS AND PAINTBRUSHES used with chemicals (petrol/thinners) tidied away
so as not to be ignited by sparks from welding/grinding

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SUPPORTING THE CAR. It cannot be stressed enough that the chassis/car is supported on
sturdy axle stands or ramps NEVER work on the vehicle only supported on a jack or unsuitable
items such as wooden blocks or bricks.
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TOOLS………….

If you consider the outlay already on purchasing your AK, it is obviously worthwhile to invest
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in adequate tools for the job in hand.

Depending on which jaguar was donor vehicle early cars were imperial, later cars metric, you
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will require :

SOCKET SET. 3/8in to 1 ¼ in AF . or 10mm to 32mm. ½ inch drive with long and short
extensions and universal/wobbly joint attachment. 3/8 inch and ¼ inch drive sets would also
be useful.
AK

COMBINATION SPANNERS 3/8 in to ¾ in AF. or 10mm to 19mm.s

SCREWDRIVERS various sizes, flat bladed and crosshead/posidrive.

MOLEGRIPS, ADJUSTABLE SPANNERS, ALLEN KEYS (hex wrenches) FILES, HAMMER

RUBBER MALLET and HAND DRILL

PLIERS. Various long nose, square jaw and circlip pliers(for internal/external circlips)
wire strippers/crimpers, side cutters.

STANLEY KNIFE, SPIRIT LEVEL, VARIOUS SAWS (for metal and wood).

ELECTRICAL TOOLS…. Grinder , sander, Drill and various bits.

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MISCELLANEOUS…….. tape measure/ruler , spirit level , marker pens, masking tape.

SPECIAL TOOLS…… pullers, spring compressors ( Hire shops are good source for these)

WORKSHOP/GARAGE.

Working on or around the vehicle requires space, a double garage is preferable but not

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available to all, so consider your work area and storage facilities, room to lie on the floor and
stripping down of donor parts and storage of same.

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Keep the floor areas clean and tidy, so consider shelving for storage, various containers for nuts/
bolts/screws and all the other bits and pieces you will acquire during the build process.

Also consider storage of tools and availability, a workbench is a bonus but workmate will suffice
you will also need the use of a vice and electrical sockets.

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Invest in a FIRE EXTINGUISHER a fire blanket and a bucket of sand , you may need them !
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THINK CLEAN : THINK TIDY

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THINK SAFE
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IT IS ALSO ADVISABLE TO SECURE YOUR WORKSHOP.YOUR PROJECT IS VERY

VALUABLE AS ARE THE TOOLS TO BUILD IT.
AK

With all this in place you are now ready to embark on your project.

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 CHAPTER THREE

CHASSIS/BODY

CHASSIS SUPPORT/PREPARATION……

The chassis /bodyshell is received with the body temporarily fitted to the body, it is advisable
at this stage before removal of the bodyshell to mark the exposed chassis rails in the engine bay
with a piece of chalk, or to make a template of the engine bay area as this will assist in the

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positioning/fitting of brake lines and fuel lines.

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You will have also receive other items necessary for your build, namely nudge bar brackets,
shortened wishbones, roll bar brackets, various nuts and bolts for body to chassis fitment.
A full list can be seen in the chapter <YOUR AK 427>.

SUPPORTING CHASSIS.

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The chassis needs to be on level ground, supported on axle stands and at a height to enable
getting underneath, to enable the correct set-up of the suspension components the chassis will
need to be level front to rear and side to side.

PAINTING CHASSIS.
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The AK chassis is fully painted by AK unless specified by the customer that they wish to prepare
and paint the chassis themselves, you can also paint it again yourself at this stage if you wish.
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BODYSHELL STORAGE…..
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Removing the body from the chassis will require the help of a up to four able bodied people as
the bodyshell is heavy, store the body away unless you are dressing out the engine bay and/or
you are using a coloured gel coat and are preparing it yourself.
AK

also some items that will need to be fitted to bodyshell before refitting to chassis, such as pedal
box and heater assembly.

IMPORTANT NOTE RE: BODY STORAGE. ONCE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE
BODY FROM THE CHASSIS IT NEEDS TO BE STORED ON A LEVEL SURFACE
WITH THE BOOT AREA SUPPORTED, TO ASSIST IN THIS YOU WILL FIND
WATCHING CLOSELY THE DOOR GAPS AND MAINTAINING THE GAP THAT
WAS APPARENT WHEN MOUNTED ON THE CHASSIS.

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 CHAPTER FOUR

RUNNING GEAR/SUSPENSION

THE INFORMATION ON STRIP DOWN & OVERHAUL OF

SUSPENSION COMPONENTS IS INTENDED AS GUIDANCE
ONLY, YOU MUST USE THE RELEVANT WORKSHOP

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MANUAL AS THE PRIME REFERENCE

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GENERAL INFORMATION

DONOR VEHICLE.
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The chassis of your AK has been designed to work with the suspension components and running
gear from the XJ6 and XJ12 Jaguar, post 1974 series 2 or 3 models.
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SELECTION.

The purchase of a complete Jaguar donor vehicle is necessary as you will require the log book
from the vehicle, although it is possible to obtain parts required from vehicle dismantlers and
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purchase a scrap jaguar for its logbook.

When selecting your donor vehicle, it is in your interest to select as low a mileage jaguar or one
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that you have inspected the suspension components to ascertain the amount of refurbishment
required, it is also important to select a vehicle with the ventilated disc and four piston calliper
set-up as this is superior to the earlier solid disc and three piston caliper arrangement on earlier
cars.
AK

: IMPORTANT NOTE :
YOU MUST USE THE FRONT VENTILATED DISC
AND FOUR POT BRAKE CALIPER SETUP, THIS IS
FOR SAFETY AND SUPERIOR BRAKE EFFICIENCY

You also need to take the final drive ratio into consideration and check it is suitable for your
engine/gearbox combination, refer to information in chapter <YOUR AK 427>.

FINAL DRIVE RATIO determines the acceleration and maximum speed of the vehicle, a high
figure (ie, 3:54:1) gives faster acceleration but lower maximum speed, a low figure (ie 2:88:1)
gives lower acceleration but higher maximum speed.
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The suspension components are mounted in subframe assemblies, you need to remove these
from the donor vehicle first, then remove the suspension components and brake components
from subframes, rusted nuts and bolts are best soaked overnight if possible with penetrating
oil or similar to aid the strip down procedure, wire brushing around nuts bolts and threads
will aid removal and make the task a lot easier.

FRONT SUSPENSION STRIPPING/PREPARATION.

Work on one side at a time, begin with the removal of the brake calipers and discs, you will need

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coil spring compressor for next step, removal of coil spring,

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:WARNING:
THE FRONT SPRINGS ARE UNDER A GREAT DEAL OF TENSION
UNTIL THE PRESSURE IS RELIEVED HANDLE WITH CARE AS
THIS EXERCISE CAN BE DANGEROUS

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After removal of the six retaining bolts holding spring platform to lower wishbone remove the
spring, undo nuts securing upper and lower ball joints separate from stub axle carrier and
remove carrier. Remove both wishbones; the upper wishbone is in two halves; also note carefully
the position and number of camber shims for replacement during rebuild.
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Repeat procedure for the other side.

Clean all components with paraffin and wire brush ready for painting, do not paint bearing
surfaces, use an enamel or hammerite or have parts powder coated,
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make a list of parts that will need replacement.

You will not require the following parts: dustshield / steering arm / shock absorbers / anti roll
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bar / subframe. refer to diagram front suspension, as some of the above parts are AK
replacement items.

When reconditioning/rebuilding the front suspension, it is advisable to renew as many of the

items listed below as possible for your own safety, they are in all likelihood worn and need
replacement.
AK

ie: upper and lower ball joints / bearings and races / bushes /new ventilated discs / refurbished
exchange calipers.

REAR SUSPENSION STRIPPING/PREPARATION.

Remove the suspension components from the subframe first, this will involve the removal of the
tie plate which is under the final drive housing and ties the subframe together, the bolts securing
this plate are invariably rusty, the six bolts into the subframe halves can be chiselled or ground
off, the bolts which fix the plate to the final drive housing need to be unscrewed as once the final
drive is placed into the AK chassis a metal plate is fixed to the underside of the final drive
housing to protect fuel line which runs under the housing.

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NOTE: remove the top centre bushes from the rear shock absorbers, you will
require them for fitment of the front shock absorbers when rebuilding.

Keep the shims from drive shafts to disc, as these are required for camber set-up, and the shims
from the inner pivot mounting.

The driveshaft universal joints will need to be removed and the driveshaft flange and splined
yoke kept, the driveshafts are returned to AK for shortened items along with the wishbones.

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: PLEASE NOTE :

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AK WILL SUPPLY YOU WITH SHORTENED REAR WISHBONES
AND DRIVESHAFTS ON AN EXCHANGE BASIS.

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The bolt and bush holding the original pressed steel radius arm in position are also required for
fitment of radius arms supplied by AK, you will notice the bolt has half of the hexagonal head
removed; this is so it will pass the shock absorber flange, retain this bolt and bush.

make a list of parts that will need replacement.

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You will not require the following parts: radius arms / shock absorbers / coil springs / subframe.

When reconditioning/rebuilding the rear suspension, it is advisable to renew as many of the

items listed below as possible for your own safety, they are in all likelihood worn and need
replacement.
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ie: driveshaft Ujs / Lower wishbone needle rollers / rear discs / hub carrier bearings /
refurbished exchange calipers.
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Drain gear oil from final drive/differential .

The final drive /differential examine for any pinion backlash, renew the two driveshaft output
seals and the front input seal (there is no need to dismantle the differential to do this).
AK

Clean all components with paraffin and wire brush ready for painting, do not paint bearing
surfaces, use an enamel or hammerite or have parts powder coated.

READY TO REBUILD

With all donor parts refurbished and necessary components replaced with new items, along with
the exchange driveshafts and wishbones from AK, you should also have purchased the six coil
over shocks required and can now rebuild the front and rear suspension assemblies and fit them
to AK chassis.

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 CHAPTER FIVE

CHASSIS BUILD

: IMPORTANT :

THE INFORMATION REGARDING REBUILDING AND REFURBISHMENT OF

SUSPENSION COMPONENTS IS FOR GUIDANCE ONLY, YOU MUST REFER
TO THE RELEVANT JAGUAR WORKSHOP MANUAL AS THE MAIN

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REFERENCE FOR THE REBUILDING PROCESS AND TORQUE SETTINGS

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FRONT SUSPENSION / REBUILD AND FITTING.

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PARTS REQUIRED ……. refer to diagram for AK front suspension.

Upper wishbone / wishbone pivot shaft / Camber shims.

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Upper and lower wishbone bushes.
Lower wishbone / Lower wishbone pivot shaft.
Upper ball joint / distance piece / castor control shims.
Lower ball joint.
Stub axle carrier / stub axle.
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Wheel hubs.
Wheel bearings / bearing races / seals.
Ventilated discs
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Brake callipers (4 piston type)

Track rod ends (for steering rack, AK supplied part).
Steering arms ( AK supplied part).
Mounting plate for shocks (AK supplied part).
Coil-over shock absorbers (purchased from AK).
All nuts / bushes / washers.
AK

Locking wire.
Shock absorber bushes from rear suspension.

REBUILD / FITTING.

Fit the two upper wishbone arms to the upper pivot shaft using the required bushes and
washers.

Fit top/upper ball joint between the wishbone arms using the castor control shims, start with
three between front wishbone arm and ball joint casting and distance piece (this is a temporary
set-up, castor will/may be adjusted later with car at ride height, they must also be fitted to avoid
distortion of bushes at pivot shaft). (figs 5.1 / 5.2)

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(fig 5.1)
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 (fig 5.2)

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Fit complete upper wishbone to AK chassis at the mounting point toward front of chassis into

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the bolt holes provided; remember to use camber shims (saved from stripping front suspension)
between pivot arm and chassis; (fig 5.3)

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(fig 5.3)

Fit lower wishbone arm to chassis mounting point (these are handed, check and fit to correct
side), (lower balljoint hole cranked forward).Fit bottom/lower ball joint to stub axle/hub
carrier, which in turn is then placed between upper and lower wishbones (remember to use
AK

nyloc locking nuts on ball joint threads).

Assemble coil-over shock using coil springs and damper, using the bushes removed from the
rear shocks during dismantling, place into the mounting eyes of shock absorber which can then
be attached to the upper shock mounting on the AK chassis, extend shock assembly thru lower
wishbone and attach lower shock mounting to coil-over shock mounting plate, this can then be
attached with four bolts to the underside of lower wishbone, ( NOTE: fit so adjusting screw on
shock absorber is accessible when vehicle is on road wheels).

Assemble ventilated disc to hub, tighten bolts to disc diagonally, torque bolts to specified setting
in workshop manual, fit complete hub/disc assembly to stub axle (refer to workshop manual re;
procedure for adjustment) remember to fit split pin to castellated locking washer.

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Next the brake caliper and steering arms (note; bolts thru caliper and steering arms need to be
wire locked).
Attach supplied track rod ends to steering rack which has been pre-fitted to the AK chassis, and
then attach to steering arms fit and tighten bolt.

Repeat procedure for other side.

: IMPORTANT :

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EXCEPT FROM THOSE ALREADY MENTIONED ABOVE, ALL RELEVANT
TORQUE SETTINGS FOR FRONT SUSPENSION SHOULD BE DONE WITH

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CAR ON ITS ROAD WHEELS, AND SHOULD BE DONE AGAIN AFTER CAR
HAS DONE 300 to 500 MILES.

REAR SUSPENSION / REBUILD AND FITTING. SC

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PARTS REQUIRED ……. Refer to diagram AK rear suspension.

Differential (new pinion seal and output shaft seals fitted).

Differential to chassis mounting bracket (AK supplied part).
Inner pivot mounting / wishbone spacer tube / shims.
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Inner pivot (fulcrum) shaft.

Wishbone (shortened exchange item from AK ).
Wishbone needle roller bearings and seals.
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Driveshaft (shortened exchange item from AK).

Driveshaft yoke and flange.
Driveshaft universal joints.
Hub carrier and hubs (rebuilt, refer to jaguar workshop manual).
Hub carrier bearings and seals.
Outer pivot (fulcrum) shaft.
AK

Shims (camber control).

Brake discs (solid).
Brake calipers.
Pivot shaft for coil over shocks.
Coil-over shock absorbers (purchased from AK).
All nuts / bolts / washers.
Grease nipples.
Locking wire.

REBUILDING / FITTING.

When fitting the rear suspension and differential it is more appropriate to part assemble the unit
first before fitting to the AK chassis.

23
 AK
SP
O RT
SC
AR
S

(fig 5.4)

24
It is important to note the rear brake discs need to run centrally through the brake calipers, this
can be achieved by the use of alignment shims between the differential output flange and the
inner mounting face of the brake disc, a trial fit is necessary and is achieved by temporarily
fitting and removing brake caliper and brake disc and packing with alignment shims until the
brake disc runs centrally through the brake caliper, once this has been achieved the brake
caliper can be permanently fastened into position, (remembering to wire lock the bolts into
position).

Fit inner pivot mounting bracket to differential also with required shims between mounting
bracket and differential casing, wire lock bolts into place. fit distance/spacer tube into mounting
bracket; (fig 5.5)

S
AR
SC (fig 5.5)
RT
at this point fit assembly into AK chassis, lift into place with hydraulic jack and secure using
four bolts removed during stripdown, these are wire locked into place after full rear suspension
system is installed but before the bodyshell is put on as access is difficult afterward.
O

Installation of the wishbone can now be done after first assembling the pivot bearing assembly
into it; (fig 5.6)
SP
AK

(fig 5.6)

the wishbone mates to the inner pivot mounting bracket using pivot shafts and differential to
chassis mounting bracket ( AK supplied part; figs 5.4 / 5.7) you may have to loosen the four
bolts at top mounting of differential as some adjustment to align everything is in order to allow
the pivot shaft to pass through, secure into place with nyloc self locking nuts re-tighten
differential top mounting four bolts and wirelock into place.

25
 AK
SP
O RT
SC
AR

(fig 5.7)
S

26
Camber shims (which have been saved from stripping rear suspension) will now need to be
inserted between the outside face of the brake disc before fitting the driveshafts and driveshafts
secured to the disc/differential output flange mounting bolts with new nyloc self locking nuts.

Hub carrier assembly can now be put into position on wishbone outer pivot using nyloc self
locking nuts on outer pivot shaft, hub carrier assembly can be pivoted upward and splined yoke
from drive shaft inserted, torque driveshaft locknut to the specified torque.

Jaguar rear suspension has a pressed steel radius arm from the wishbone near the outer pivot to
the floor pan to control movement front to rear, on the AK the set-ups front to rear movement is
controlled with a tubular radius arm with rubber bush attachment to the wishbone and a jaguar

S
track rod end (note: imperial thread not metric) on threaded adjustment attaches forward to the
chassis (fig 5.8).

AR
SC
O RT
SP

(fig 5.8)
AK

use special bolt and lock washer kept from strip down to fasten rubber bush end to wishbone,
secure ball joint with nyloc lock nut. Do not attach ball joint end to chassis just yet.

Next fit a pair of assembled coil-over shocks to each side of the suspension assembly insert pivot
shaft through shock lower mounting and wishbone securing both sides with appropriate washer
and nyloc lock nuts, support wishbone assembly with hydraulic jack to attach shock upper
mounting to chassis, once again insert pivot shaft and secure with appropriate washers and
nyloc lock nuts, ( NOTE: fit coil over shock so the adjusting screws are accessible when vehicle is
on road wheels, facing toward differential or front and rear of vehicle respectively, this is to
enable adjustment of shock absorbers)

27
Finally the radius arm track rod end can be adjusted to align with mating hole in chassis also
Remembering to fit locknut to the track rod end, secure ball joint to chassis using washer and
nyloc lock nut.

SUSPENSION SETUP

INFORMATION

The adjustment of the Jaguar suspension as used on the AK 427 is enabled by the use of metal

S
shims, the process is referred to in the jaguar workshop manual, the instructions as to set-up as
Contained in this section are specific to your AK 427

AR
All adjustments/settings to the front and rear suspension are to be carried out with the chassis
Completely levelled fore and aft and side to side.

In order to make the adjustments the coil over shock absorbers are not in place/removed if they
have been fitted and in the case of the rear suspension the radius arm is not place/ remove if fit-
ted.
SC
A template for a gauge to assist in set-up is available from AK.
RT
REAR SUSPENSION

SETTING/ADJUSTMENT

To set the camber on the rear suspension you will need to raise the rear hub carrier with the aid
of a hydraulic jack (shocks and radius arm removed) , lay a straight edge along the top surface
O

of the chassis were the roll bar attachment points are, raise hub carrier and using a ruler / mea -
sure the distance between the top of the hub carrier and the upper surface this needs to be
150mm. (fig 5.9)
SP
AK

(fig 5.9)

28
raise or lower the hub carrier until this is achieved. Place a spirit level or the gauge against the
face of the hub, (fig 5.10) at the correct setting this needs to be 0 degrees to ¼ degrees negative
camber, to adjust this measurement shims need to be inserted between the the drive-shaft flange
and the brake disc/diff output flange, using two nuts on the bolts which hold the driveshaft to the
disc / diff output flange screw these down on the threads pulling driveshaft closer to the disc
until the desired measurement is achieved at the hub face,

S
AR
SC
O RT

(fig 5.10)
SP

the gauge needs to be reading 0 degrees (zero) or ¼ degrees negative camber, there should now
be a gap between driveshaft flange and disc in which shims can be inserted to assess the
required amount, it is advisable to add one extra to account for compression of shims when nuts
are fully tightened, with the required amount of shims determined remove nuts pull away
AK

driveshaft place shims against disc face refit driveshaft and fully tighten nyloc lock nuts, recheck
hub face measurement for 0 (zero) to ¼ negative camber , refit coil overshocks and radius arm ,
repeat procedure for other side.

FRONT SUSPENSION

SETTING/ ADJUSTMENT
CAMBER

Camber to the front suspension is already built into the AK427 chassis, however check this once
full assembly is in place (minus the coil over shocks) by use of the gauge or spirit level on the hub
face as per rear suspension, the setting should be 0 degrees to ¼ degrees negative camber, if any
adjustment is required this is done by inserting dependant on donor vehicle, 3 to 4 shims of
29
the correct thickness between the upper wishbone pivot/fulcrum shaft and the wishbone attach-
ment point on the AK427 chassis.

SETTING/ ADJUSTMENT
CASTOR

To set the castor angle to the front suspension is accomplished with the use of shims between the
mating faces of the top balljoint and the upper wishbone with track rod ends removed, raise the
wishbones with hydraulic jack so they run level/horizontal slightly lower than level, (fig 5.11)

S
AR
SC
RT
(fig 5.11)

Turn hub carrier /disc assembly so it runs parallel to the chassis, (fig 5.12)
O
SP
AK

(fig 5.12)

place the gauge against the straight edge of the two caliper mounting points on the hub carrier
assembly, with the gauge in place 3 to 4 shims will need to be inserted at the top balljoint/ wish-
bone mating face to achieve a castor angle of 5 ½ to 6 degrees of castor. (fig 5.14)

30
 S
AR
SC (fig 5.14)

repeat process for the other side, re-attach track rod ends and locknuts ensuring equal thread
RT
both sides, toe in can be adjusted temporarily at this stage by raising wishbones hub assembly
as before until both sides are level/horizontal and adjusting track rod ends equally until both
disc/hub assemblies run straight ahead.

AK usually set toe in at 4 mm or parallel, use of a string line between the rear of the disc over to
O

the rear of the other disc, then checking with same string line at the front of the discs until an
equal measurement is achieved. Tighten locknuts and lower suspension.
SP

Once wheels are fitted and the car is sitting on terra firma check all nuts and tighten to specified
torque settings as stated in the workshop manual.
AK

31
BRAKE LINES/HOSES

INFORMATION.

Reference to the workshop manual is essential when reconditioning all brake components, if in
any doubt consult qualified specialist help.

DUE TO THE PERFORMANCE CAPABILITY OF YOUR AK

S
IT IS ESSENTIALTHE BRAKING SYSTEM IS ABLE TO
FULFILL THE TASK AND THE DEMANDS MADE OF IT.

AR
At AK we use and recommend the use of new and reconditioned brake components, DO NOT
just use the brake components as they came off the donor, considerable wear will almost
definitely have been incurred.

PARTS REQUIRED.

Dual circuit master cylinder/servo (marina)

SC
Ventilated front discs (jaguar)
RT
Solid rear discs (jaguar)
Brake calipers (jaguar)
Brake pipe 3/16 copper approx 6 metres
Goodrich braided front hoses (AK supply part)
Brake unions male/female
3 way connector brake unions x2
O
SP

METRIC AND IMPERIAL BRAKE COMPONENTS/UNIONS WERE

USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF JAGUAR CARS, SERIES ONE
AND EARLY SERIES TWO CARS WERE UNF, LATER CARS USED
METRIC,DO NOT INTERCHANGE IMPERIAL AND METRIC UNIONS.
AK

The brake lines run along the inner face of the in board offside chassis rail that runs front to
rear to the rear calipers and across the inner face of the front lower side to side chassis rail for
the front calipers (fig 5.15/16/17)

Attachment to the chassis is enabled with rubber lined p-clips or plastic push in clips, these must
be evenly spaced and not more than twelve inches/ 300 mm apart, SVA requirement.

(REFER TO SVA MANUAL FOR ANY CHANGES AND INFORMATION).

32
 AK
SP
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SC
AR
S

33
Use the correct pipe-bending tool and cutting and flaring tool. Using a piece of string to measure
approximate length of brake pipe needed cut to length remembering to file away any burrs,
Place appropriate fitting/union over brake pipe and make appropriate flare dependant on fitting
type. When bending pipe using correct tool take care to form bends of an even radius DO NOT
KINK, DISCARD IF KINKED.

If template was made of engine bay chassis rails as suggested in chassis support/preparation the
next stage is made a lot easier.

FITTING BRAKE LINES.

S
Starting at the offside chassis rail

AR
Fit 3 way union to inner face of chassis rail just below the bracket for brake hose to front
caliper from the left fitting of 3-way connector run brake pipe from this along front chassis rail
inner face and up to bracket/brake hose attachment point on nearside of chassis, run brake pipe
from top opening of 3-way connector to bracket/brake hose fitting above on offside chassis rail,
further run third brake pipe from right opening on 3-way connector around chassis rail along

SC
top of triangulated chassis rail upper surface for approx 6 inches and form a bend upwards for
further attachment later after body shell is fitted. (fig 5.15)
O RT
SP

(fig 5.15)
AK

Next : looking toward the rear of the chassis from the front

to the top face of the rear chassis rail on left side of cut out for differential to propshaft fit the
second 3-way connector with it`s top opening toward the differential casing and side openings
parallel to the chassis rail, from top opening run pipe up to left caliper (still looking toward rear
of chassis) from right hand opening run pipe along top of chassis rail bend pipe following half
moon cut out, once back on the top face of chassis rail and in line with fitting on right caliper
bend pipe up to caliper. (fig 5.16) from the left hand opening pipe follows along top of rail then
forward down to the inner face of offside chassis rail toward front of chassis rising on to top of
rail in engine bay area of chassis and as per front fitting along triangulated chassis rail
and upward ready to connect to master cylinder after fitment of body

34
 S
AR
(fig 5.16)

SC
ORT
SP
AK

(fig 5.17)
35
DO NOT run brake lines under chassis rail so as to prevent damage in the event of the vehicle
grounding out ie: sleeping policeman

:IMPORTANT:

WHEN BRAKING SYSTEM IS FULLY INSTALLED IT MUST BE TESTED FOR

LEAKS AT ALL CONNECTIONS WHILST APPLYING FULL PRESSURE TO
THE BRAKE PEDAL.

S
FUEL TANK

AR
INFORMATION

AK can supply a stainless steel fuel tank complete with sender unit to the correct dimensions,
however if you wish to undertake the fabrication of your own tank AK will provide the relevant
dimensions.

SC
If fabricating your own tank note position of attachment points to chassis

FITTING
RT
The AK fuel tank is mounted to the underside of the rear chassis frame, there are five attach-
ment points for the fuel tank mounting, lift into place with hydraulic jack or a friend use nyloc
lock nuts to secure to frame (fig 5.18)
O
SP
AK

(fig 5.18)

36
FUEL PUMP AND FUEL LINES

INFORMATION

Dependant on fuel system ie: carburettor or fuel injection type of pump and were to mount will
need to be taken into account. With fuel injected systems it is important to mount the fuel pump
as near to the fuel tank as possible and to use a high pressure fuel filter, preferably the one that
came with fuel injection system, high pressure fuel hose will be required as the pressure from the
pump will be 60 psi on average, normal fuel hose is not rated at this pressure, use hose specific to
fuel injection.

S
For ROVER V8 engines, which use an electric pump this is usually mounted to the nearside

AR
inner chassis rail between the cut out in the rail and the backbone brace, the fuel line runs along
the INNER FACE of this chassis rail also (NOT UNDERNEATH ) (fig’s 5.17 /19)

SC
O RT
SP

(fig 5.19)
AK

FORD V8 usually use mechanical fuel pumps the fuel lines for this runs up the inner nearside
chassis rail as per Rover V8 but the fuel line continues further along the rail closer to were the
pump will be on the engine. (fig’s 5.17 /19)

CHEVEROLET V8 usually uses mechanical fuel pump also its fuel lines will need to run along
the inner face of the offside inner chassis rail (fig 5.17)

At the rear of the chassis the fuel pipe passes over the chassis rail (fig 5.20) and then under the
differential before being fitted with a fuel filter before entering the fuel tank outlet.

37
 S
AR
SC
RT
(fig 5.20)

A protective plate will net to be fitted to the underside of the differential to protect the fuel line
in the event of the vehicle grounding.
O
SP
AK

38
 CHAPTER SIX

ENGINE/GEARBOX/EXHAUST/PROPSHAFT

GENERAL INFORMATION.

Your chassis is now ready to accept the installation of your choice of engine and gearbox,
although it is possible to fit said items once the bodyshell has been introduced to the chassis, it is

S
preferable to install the engine and gearbox now, which in turn eases the installation of all of the
necessary ancillary components,

AR
when ordering your chassis you will have specified engine and gearbox choice, the chassis will
have the necessary mounting points, however the original mounts/hardware from whichever
engine and gearbox you have chosen will be required, as will the various ancillary components
ie: starter motor / alternator.

FITTING
SC
Installation can be undertaken with the engine/gearbox attached or separately, in either case it is
RT
wise to invest in the hire of an engine hoist/cherry picker for this operation, it is not safe or
healthy to try this operation using manual labour.

If the gearbox is already filled with oil fit something over the output shaft to stop oil leaking all
over your garage/workshop floor, as the engine/gearbox need to tilt toward the rear to go in.
O

Care should be taken when lower engine/gearbox combination into chassis, check for clearance
and be careful not to scratch paintwork once engine mounts are aligned, support rear of gearbox
SP

with a block of wood or hydraulic jack whilst fitting the gearbox mounting and tightening bolts
(tighten to torque settings specified in owners workshop manual for engine and gearbox of your
choice).

Install the starter motor and the alternator ready for the next stage as you will need to check
clearances for the headers/ exhaust manifolds.
AK

EXHAUST

Consideration as to the exhaust system should also be made at this point, ie: underfloor system
or sidepipes and the headers / exhaust manifold, original or fabricated by your self or an after-
market supplier, AK can fabricate these items for you.

39
 :IMPORTANT NOTE:

CLEARANCE OF STEERING COLUMN EXTENSION / FOOTWELLS AND

STARTER MOTOR SHOULD BE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT WHEN ASSESSING
THE MEASUREMENT AND INSTALLATION OF EXHAUST HEADERS/SYSTEM

S
UNDERFLOOR SYSTEM.

AR
If fabricating your own headers/manifolds or using aftermarket fabrication company, In order
to ascertain the clearance for headers/exhaust manifolds/system you will need to place bodyshell
onto chassis after installation of the engine to take measurements, remove bodyshell to fabricate
the
Header/manifolds

SIDEPIPES SC
As with underfloor system (above) but as well as clearance in the engine bay you will also need
to determine the exit points in the bodyshell for the sidepipes and cut out the required
RT
bodywork.

PROPSHAFT

If using any of the various American gearboxes you will need to retain and use the complete
sliding yoke assembly from the gearbox, which will then need to be fitted to the Jaguar
O

propshaft.

If using the rover gearbox you can use the Rover or Jaguar propshaft.
SP

Whichever you chose, in all cases the propshaft will require shortening and the required output
shaft fitting, this job is best suited to your local propshaft specialist who will also balance your
newly shortened propshaft and refurbish any worn Ujs.
AK

40
 CHAPTER SEVEN.

COOLING SYSTEM.

INFORMATION.

The cooling system incorporates a crossflow radiator (Rover SD1) a header tank which is uses a
pressurised cap and the system should have a thermostat with which to control the temperature
at the same to as allowing the engine to reach its optimum operating temperature .

S
The coolant circulation is from a pulley driven impeller at the front of the engine driven by the
crankshaft pulley .

AR
The cooling system is fitted to the chassis prior to the introduction of the bodyshell , dependant
on your engine choice positioning/sizes of the various hoses will vary but some parts remain
common to all installations .

Remember to use anti-freeze in the cooling system as this inhibits corrosion as well as providing
frost protection .
SC
PARTS REQUIRED ……
RT
Top and bottom radiator frame ( AK supplied as part of build )
Radiator (Rover SD1 , to 3 row core No BTP 1019 if using large capacity V8 )
Header tank (AK can supply a stainless steel one)
Cooling fan/s
O

Adjustable thermostatic switch

Temperature sender and thermostat (specific to engine)
Hoses ( main top and bottom hoses and heater hoses )
SP

Hose clips various sizes.

Plastic quik fit mounting kit for fans to radiator ( or fabricate own bracketry )
AK

FITTING

Introduce the lower radiator frame to lower mounting at front of main chassis rails, use the 4
attachment bolts supplied, 2 each side to fasten frame into place.

Bring upper radiator frame into place and using supplied bolts also attach to the mounting
points on chassis located top surface of cross box section at front of chassis. fig 7.1.

At this point bring radiator into place using locating pegs at the bottom of the radiator place the
original radiator rubber mounts (or rubber washers) onto the locating pegs and locate pegs into
holes in lower radiator frame. Now attach the upper frame to top of radiator using bolts through
the upper frame into original mounting holes at top of radiator.

41
 S
AR
SC
RT
(fig 7.1)

HEADER TANK
O

Header tank is mounted onto the same box section as the upper radiator frame , after first
placing strips of masking tape along top rail position header tank on top of rail and mark the
attachment holes onto the masking tape , drill and tap these holes remove the tape and replace
SP

header tank and bolt into place .

RADIATOR FAN/s

Choice of fan/s used is up to the customer and specific to there engine needs , ensure adequate
AK

cooling is provided for your engine , either two 10 inch fans or one 16 inch usually will suffice
bracketry can be fabricated by the customer or the use of plastic quik fit mounts are a reliable
and trusted method , take care not to damage the core when mounting fans to the radiator .

THERMOSTATIC SWITCH

Usually supplied with its own fitting instructions ,

the capillary that senses the water temperature needs to be placed into the top radiator hose
were it fits to the top radiator inlet, the capillary connecting tube should then be coiled (helps
absorb vibration) the length of this determines the placement of the adjustable thermostatic
switch, Ak `s method is to use a stainless steel plate across the upper radiator mounting frame
and then fit the adjustable thermostatic switch into this.

42
HOSES

Finally fit the coolant hose top and bottom check for fouling on any moving part, ensure all hose
clips are fastened securely , leave extra length on heater hoses until after body is fitted and these
can then be trimmed and attached to the heater inlet and outlets, run a thin bead of silicone
sealant around heater outlets before attaching hoses enabling a greater seal.

Once all is fully connected fill with water and antifreeze and check for any leaks and once you
are able to run the engine and the wiring to the electric fans is connected and working check for
airlocks , run engine up to temperature and adjust thermostatic switch until fans switch on.

S
AR
SC
O RT
SP
AK

43
 CHAPTER EIGHT.

BODYSHELL/FITTING

INFORMATION.

The AK body is supplied with the cockpit (seat tub) / boot tub/ front & rear wheel arches
bonded into the shell as an integral part of the whole assembly, doors and bonnet are pre-fitted

S
and the bonnet and boot lid and doors all are double skinned, a scuttle hoop is mounted within
the seat tub and spans across the seat tub under the dashboard it is bonded into place and once

AR
the body shell is fitted it is through bolted onto chassis.

Most customers will have had the body/chassis sent to the paint shop of there choice prior to
building, if this is the case it is preferable for all holes to have been cut in the body for the
ancillary parts beforehand.

SC
If body was supplied in gel coat (coloured) finish the preparation will require the removal of the
body mould flash lines and many hours of rubbing down and polishing, it is preferable to cut all
body ancillary holes before embarking on this task.
RT
PREPARATION

Some preparation of the body is required prior to fitting to the rolling chassis, an access hole for
the fuel filler inlet and sender unit will need to be cut (fig 8.1), the fitting of the pedal box and
O

heater box is also a necessity (referred to in there specific chapters).

A trial fit is always recommended to check for clearance as the body once finally attached with a
SP

flexible sealant is difficult and messy to remove, also making sure there will be no trapped
fuel/brake lines, the gearshift hole can be marked and cut and dependant on were the fuel pump
is mounted (if it is across the rear chassis rails behind the differential) partial removal of some of
the boot floor forward of tank will also be required).
AK

Cover inlet to fuel tank to prevent any ingress of dirt and/or dust

Removal of the bonnet is beneficial before body fitment and will need to be done ,also enlisting
the assistance of 3 to 4 helpers will aid and ease the task.

IMPORTANT NOTE
THE BODY SHELL IS HEAVY AND FOR SAFETY REASONS AND
TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO PERSONS OR PROPERTY IT IS
NECESSARY TO ENSURE THERE ARE ENOUGH BODIES TO LIFT
AND MANOUVER THE BODY SHALL INTO POSITION

44
 S
AR
(fig 8.1)

FITTING BODY
SC
RT
Once you are satisfied with the preparation of the body and ensured all access holes are cut
and the required parts attached (pedal box / heater) and having undergone a trial fit to establish
clearance, you can now fit the body to the chassis.

It is necessary to run a bead of sealant along the chassis rails were the seat tub sits and also
O

across chassis cross member were roll bar and seat belt brackets attach and around fuel tank
support rails, first clean the chassis were sealant is to be laid then run a ½ inch bead of sealant
along chassis rails as seen in diagram, (fig 8.2).
SP

With the aid of helpers lift body over chassis and making sure inner front wings clear the front
supports lower front of chassis over them, once cleared lower rear of body onto chassis (as the
body was originally pre-fitted at the AK factory it has already been aligned with the chassis) it
should just sit in place as body can only fit into previously pre-fitted position, if it fails to seat
AK

completely on chassis check for obstructions (why a trial fit is necessary).

Once in firmly seated onto chassis the attachment bolts supplied with your kit can be used to
bolt the body into place, several of the attachment points in the seat tub are threaded for bolts
provided. (fig 8.3)

The scuttle hoop however bolted right through chassis rail through its attachment footplate with
the 4 supplied nuts & bolts, 2 each side. (fig 8.3)
The front inner wings to the support brackets use 4 nuts & bolts supplied, 2 each side. Rear of
chassis is bolted through boot floor with 2 supplied nuts & bolts. (fig 8.4)

Refitting of the bonnet can now take place, and if required the front support attachments
loosened to aid adjustment once done tighten down fully.

45
 AK
SP
O RT
SC
AR
S

(fig 8.2)

46
 S
AR
SC
RT
( fig 8.3)
O
SP
AK

( fig 8.4)

47
 FITTING OUT THE BODY

ROLL BAR and SEAT BELT BRACKETS

INFORMATION

The seatbelt and roll bar brackets supplied with your kit are supplied in 3 or 4 parts depending
on your choice of roll bar whether it be single hoop drivers side/ twin hoops both sides or full
width hoop variety.

S
The brackets are attached to the chassis in the boot tub sandwiching the fibreglass body between
them and the chassis, there function as the top seat belt mount determines that they are attached
and constructed to a safety standard and it is important to bolt them in place securely using

AR
nyloc locking nuts.

PARTS REQUIRED

Seat belt/roll bar brackets (left and right side)

Roll bar support bracket
Nuts and bolts SC
O RT
SP
AK

( fig 8.5)
FITTING

The holes for affixing the brackets in place in the boot tub are pre-drilled at AK but may still
need opening out slightly to enable easy insertion of the bolts, the seatbelt/roll bar brackets are
sided and are positioned in the boot with the roll bar support tube outermost when looking into
the boot, (fig 8.5 /6).

48
First fit will be temporary as you need to mark and make the holes for the seatbelt attachment
eyebolt to attach to, the hole is made under the scuttle lip at the rear of the cockpit/seat tub, to
do this place the right hand seat belt bracket in place on the raised platform in the boot, insert
the bolts through the brackets base plate and the fibreglass skin into the chassis below, from
underneath the vehicle put on at least two of the nuts and tighten so as to hold bracket in place
whilst marking the positions of the seatbelt eyelet bolts.

S
AR
SC
O RT
SP

( fig 8.6)

Using the bracket as the template and using a marker pen draw around the top of it onto the
AK

rear boot wall (cockpit rear wall), at the top of the bracket is the pre drilled and threaded
attachment plate for the eyebolt, you need to mark were this is and approximate were to make
the hole, (fig 8.7)

Remove the bracket and if you drill a hole in the rear wall through to the cockpit just under the
scuttle lip it will give you and approximation of were to make the hole for the seat belt under the
scuttle lip,

drill the hole under the scuttle lip with a small drill bit to see if it is in line with the attachment
plate on top of the bracket, if it is drill large hole and open out with a file until the eyebolt can be
inserted and screwed into the bracket, once this has been achieved the seatbelt/roll bar bracket
can be bolted down fully onto the chassis.

49
 S
AR
( fig 8.7)

Repeat for the passenger side.

SC
The roll bar support bracket is a simple matter of bolting into place after checking the alignment
of the chassis mounting holes through the fibreglass skin. (fig 8.5 /6)
RT
ROLL BAR/s

INFORMATION
O

The roll bar for the AK is made of stainless steel tube bent to form a hoop, were as this was a
support and safety feature in the original, for our purposes the roll bar is purely cosmetic, one or
two roll bars can be fitted as is your preference.
SP

FITTING

HOLES FOR ROLL BAR ARE NOW PRE-CUT AT THE FACTORY FOR ALL NEW KITS.
This following applies to older kits only (find the approximate centre of were the roll bar passes
AK

through the body into the boot and fits into the roll bar supports, to do this follow a vertical line
straight up from the centre of the roll bar support bracket to the underside of the body and drill
a small hole, then gradually open the hole out with a round file until the roll bar can be inserted
and locates with the roll bar support brackets, take your time and open out the holes for the roll
bar to pass through as this task will be done by eye and self judgement).

The roll bar will need some of its length removing to obtain the correct height (using centre line
thru roll bar measure approximately 10 ½ to 11 inches from top of the body to the top of the roll
bar).

Before final fitting of roll bar, slide the escutcheons over the bar refit the roll bar and slide the
escutcheons down onto the body, mark and drill holes to fit escutcheons to the body, a small
amount of sealant underneath will prevent water ingress.

50
WINDSCREEN

INFORMATION

The windscreen is purchased as a complete assembly, furnished with glass pre-fitted to the
frame and held in place by a rubber seal, support legs are to be found at either side of the wind-
screen with which to attach it to the vehicle, there is also a rubber seal along the bottom edge of
the windscreen were the frame makes contact with the body, the windscreen is fitted to the

S
scuttle and is supported/attached by the support legs through holes in the body to the scuttle
hoop.

AR
When the windscreen is fitted it is done so with a pre determined rake, this is achieved by
measuring and cutting a piece of timber (2x1”) and 36 inches long and placing between rear of
screen top frame and the centre of the scuttle lip at the rear of the cockpit/seat tub.

PARTS REQUIRED

Windscreen
Support stays x2
SC
Escutcheons x2
RT
Bolts x4
Sealant

FITTING
O

Usually best performed with the aid of a helper as the windscreen is heavy and awkward (avoid
damage to paint/bodywork)
SP

The rubber seal at the base of the screen will be such that the lip is facing forward of the wind-
screen. In order to create a tighter more waterproof seal between windscreen and body it is
advisable to reverse this seal so it faces rearwards, then bend forwards as screen is lowered into
position (fig 8.9) this will hopefully negate the use of any sealant under the rubber seal.
AK

This is best done before the windscreen support stays are fitted to the windscreen, if they have
not been fitted already.

With the rubber seal reversed and the support stays fitted to windscreen it can be lowered into
place on the scuttle forward of the cockpit/seat tub, the two support stays are inserted through
the holes pre-cut at AK, as screen is lowered pull rubber seal forwards toward front of vehicle
and as windscreen weight is lowered onto seal it will stay facing forward providing a tighter seal.

51
 S
AR
SC ( fig 8.8)
RT
Once the screen is in place put the piece of timber cut to 36 inches length between top wind-
screen frame and scuttle lip at rear of cockpit, using G clamps or similar clamp support legs to
scuttle frame under dashboard scuttle. (fig 8.8 /8.10)
O

Once positioned with the correct rake adjustment and securely clamped to the scuttle hoop, now
drill two holes through support stays into scuttle frame (cut thread with a tap in the scuttle
SP

frame holes to accept bolts),

AK

( fig 8.9)

52
 S
AR
SC
O RT
SP

(fig 8.10)
AK

Bolt the windscreen into place and remove piece of timber used for measuring windscreen rake
and G clamps, the screws attaching windscreen to support stays can be removed now and
windscreen removed from between stays to allow the escutcheon plates to be pushed down the
support stays to cover the body holes were support stays pass through, it is advisable to put some
sealant in the support stay hole before fixing escutcheon into place to prevent the ingress of
water at this point, re-attach windscreen remembering to pull rubber seal at base of windscreen
forward as it meets up with body.

53
DOORS

INFORMATION

The doors on the AK are double skinned and pre-fitted by AK at the factory, they are hung on
two hinges which are attached to the scuttle hoop, two bolts to each hinge fasten to the inner
door skin and allow some adjustment. the mounting plate for the door locks is already incorp-
orated inside the door skin for the door locks.

S
Some gapping of the doors may be required achieved by filing the door edge to achieve an even
gap.

AR
DOOR LOCKS

INFORMATION
SC
The door locks used on your AK are required to comply with the regulations set out in the SVA
manual, the locks will have an anti burst double latch incorporated in there action as a safety
measure to avoid the door coming open without proper operation of the lever.
RT
The lock usually used for your AK has these requirements as well as maintaining a classis
appearance preferable for your cobra, the door locking system comes in to parts comprising of
the door lock and the latch/striker.
O

Locks fit to the inner door skin were a strengthened mounting plate is already sandwiched into
the inner skin to attach lock too.
SP

The latch/striker attaches to the door frame upright and is attached to a mounting bracket/plate
supplied with your kit from AK, there is a small cut out were the latch/striker is to be positioned.

PARTS REQUIRED….
AK

Door locks x2
Door latch/striker x2
Latch/striker plate x2 (AK supplied)
Timber (for packing out around door frame and support of latch/striker plate)
P38 plastic filler/resin

FITTING

In order to correctly ascertain the position for the door latch it is necessary to decide on door
panels and if the lock will sit on the door panel or in a cut-out so the lock sits directly onto the
door skin (this will determine were the latch/striker needs to be positioned relative to the lock).

54
If the door lock is to sit on the door panel (AK preference) then a spacer or the door panel will
need to be used to position lock onto the door remembering that the thickness of the panel will
be plywood panel the padding and the leather covering, this will determine the thickness of the
spacer if not using the covered door panel as the spacer.

S
AR
SC
O RT
SP

(fig 8.11)

Before commencing you will need to remove the escutcheon/cover from the door lock to reveal
AK

the four countersunk mounting holes of the lock.

With the spacer/door panel fitted to the door, tape the door into its shut position with some
masking tape, temporarily fit the latch/striker to its mounting plate then fit latch/striker into the
door lock, offer both up to the door with the door in its closed position, the latch/striker has a
cut-out in the door frame were it is positioned and the holes for the lock are pre-cut and
threaded, (8.11).

Once satisfied with the positioning of the lock and latch, mark through the four holes of the lock
through the panel/spacer, remove the lock assembly and latch, drill holes through door panel
/spacer in line with the pre-drilled door lock holes

Replace door panel and fit lock assembly to the door.

55
With the door lock now attached bring door into closed position once again to position the latch,
with the latch in position in the lock (ensure it is fully engaged) attach the latch mounting plate
to the latch and door frame, once satisfied with its position fix into place using p38 and leave to
set.

Whilst the p38 sets you will now need to cut the timber to act as support for the latch mounting
plate and also for supports for the inner cockpit panel (fig 8.12).

S
AR
SC
O RT
SP

( fig 8.12)
AK

The wooden supports once cut to shape (ensuring a tight fit behind the door latch plate) can be
secured into position with p38 also, allow the p38 to cure before attempting to open/close the
door.

SCREEN WASHERS

INFORMATION

The screen wash system in your AK is operated by the wiper/washer stalk on the right of the
steering column, the system comprises of a washer fluid/container to hold the water a 12-volt
pump/motor and two washer jets, the pump/motor is mounted to your washer fluid container it

56
is part of SVA regulations and compulsory in the UK that a windscreen washer system is fitted
and working to your vehicle, the washer jets also need to comply with the regulations re: there
curvature and height, the fluid container as to its capacity ie: minimum of 1 litre.

PARTS REQUIRED

Washer bottle/container (AK can supply a stainless steel item if required)

Washer jets x 2
In line non-return valve

S
Windscreen washer tubing
T-piece

AR
FITTING

After deciding on were you want to mount your washer fluid container (AK fit there`s to the
passenger foot well that runs into the transmission tunnel, (fig 8.12) this also provides as point

SC
were the wiring can pass through the bulkhead to provided the 12 volt current to the motor/
pump ) fit container securely to position fit washer motor/pump to container.
O RT
SP
AK

( fig 8.12) a

Position and drill holes for washer jets, take a centre line up the bonnet to the windscreen and
measure out (7 inches 180mm) in either direction, once washer jets are fitted cut and fit tubing
remembering to use t-piece to split to the two washer jets and non return valve, to assist in
fitting tubing over connections heat the ends in some hot water.

Test system once the wiring is connected.

57
BOOT LID

A trial fit of the boot lid is necessary to adjust for an even gap all around, (fit the d-section
rubber to the boot lid opening first and ensure that the boot sits level with the bodywork) you
may need to file down the lip to achieve this.
To gap the boot lid evenly all around file down the edge until this is achieved.

BOOT HINGES

S
You will note that on the underside of the boot lid there are two flat areas were the boot hinges
are positioned, transfer an approximate centre line from these to the outer/upper surface of the

AR
boot lid, then mark on the outer/upper surface of the boot lid the centre line of the boot and then
measure an equal distance from the line to the approximate hinge positions transferred
originally to the boot lid surface, now with the hinge positions marked an equal distance from
the centre line (9 inches- 230mm),(fig 8.14) you can position and fit the hinges, mask off the area
with tape, and it is usually better to fit the hinge to the scuttle first then the boot lid.

SC
O RT
SP
AK

( fig 8.14)

BOOT LOCK

Using the centre line of the boot lid you will need to drill a ¾ inch hole in the outer skin for the
handle boss to pass through (you can use the lock gasket to mark this out) place masking tape
over the area to mark the position and before drilling, also a ½ inch hole in the inner skin for
the square shaft to pass through. (fig 8.15).

58
There are small locating tabs in the escutceon/baseplate of lock which will require small notches
to be cut/filed into the lock hole you cut, this helps to locate the lock into position.

S
AR
SC
O RT
SP
AK

( fig 8.15)

To ascertain the position up the centre line for the hole, trial fit the lock assembly to the access
hole in the boot lid, (the access hole may need opening out/modification) ensure the square hole
in the lock for the shaft to pass through is in line with the centre line of the boot lid, which will
then line up with the holes for the boot handle square shaft.

Once positioned correctly and lock and handle holes drill holes for fixing screws and fix into
place, remember to refit the gasket to the boot handle.

59
BONNET

The bonnet on your AK has been pre-fitted originally at the factory, however you will have
removed it during the build, replacement is just a reversal of the removal procedure but you will
need to before fitting the d-section rubber seal to the bonnet opening file or cut down the lip that
the seal attaches to, trial and guesswork will be required to gauge the correct height that will
allow the bonnet to sit level with the bodywork.

BONNET LOCK

S
As with the boot lid the bonnet has two flat areas on its underside were the bonnet locks are
positioned, you will need to mark out the centre line on the bonnet and measure an equal

AR
distance to the position for both bonnet locks (as with the boot lock you can use the lock gasket
to mark out the holes for the locks) make the holes for the boss and square shaft of the bonnet
lock to pass through, (place masking tape over the area to mark and before drilling) (fig 8.16)

SC
O RT
SP
AK

( fig 8.16)

Open the holes out gradually until lock fits (lock is positioned so the escutcheon/baseplate runs
across the bonnet from side to side), there are small locating tabs in the escutceon/baseplate of
lock which will require small notches to be cut/filed into the lock holes you cut, this helps to
locate the lock into position.

Drill holes for fixing screws and remembering to refit the gasket, fix lock into position.

60
From the under side of the bonnet you will need to fit the locking catches to the square shafts of
the bonnet locks (these are locked in place with small allen screws) (fig 8.16)

The square shaft will need shortening once the latch position has been found.

In order for the locks to full engage securely it will be necessary to fit locking plates (fabricate
with some stainless steel) these bolted to the bulkhead under the scuttle in the engine bay and
provide a stronger closure/attachment for the lock. (fig 8.17).

S
AR
SC
O RT
SP

( fig 8.17)
AK

FUEL FILLER

The driver’s side rear wing has a recess for the petrol filler (this allows AK/s to comply with
SVA regulations even with the flip top Aston filler cap).

PARTS REQUIRED

Fuel filler cap and flange (Aston quick release type)

Fuel hose (wire reinforced type)
Breather tube/hose
Hose clips

61
FITTING

Offer up the gasket from the fuel filler cap to the recess in the drivers side wing, centralise the
gasket the mark the inner circumference with a marker pen, if you have a hole saw large enough
this can be used, alternatively drill several pilot holes inside the circumference line previously
marked, using a saw cut between the holes inside of the line, using a half round file open up the
hole to the line, offer up the fuel filler to check for clearance, once filler inserts into hole the filler
can be fitted to the recess after marking and drilling the fixing holes using the filler flange as the
template for the fixing holes.

S
AR
SC
O RT
SP

(fig 8.18)
AK

:NOTE:
IF USING THE ASTON FILLER CAP ENSURE IT IS FULLY SCREWED
DOWN ONTO THE THREADED FLANGE BEFORE FITTING, IT HAS TO
BE POSITIONED AT AN ANGLE FACING OUTWARD AND TOWARD THE
REAR OF THE VEHICLE: SEE DIAGRAM.

62
Before drilling the fixing holes in the recess first screw the Aston filler cap tightly down onto the
threaded flange so the cap can be positioned correctly into the recess in relation to the rear wing
(the cap won’t open fully if positioned incorrectly) (fig 8.19).

S
AR
SC
(fig 8.19)
RT
The wire reinforced fuel filler hose needs to pass through the boot/wheel arch wall (drivers side
rear) from the boot space into the wheel arch were it connects to the filler flange under the wing
using hose clip (ensure hose clip is fully tight). (fig 8.18).
O

Repeat with the fuel tank neck fit wire reinforced fuel hose and attach with hose clip, the smaller
vent pipe is a breather fit smaller bore hose and pass through hole in boot wall to wheel arch
with the fuel filler hose and fix it to it with a cable tie.
SP

LIGHTS
AK

The AK 427 light positions are moulded into the body shell except for side repeater/indicators
and rear fog lamp, it is mandatory for any motor vehicle used on the public highway to be fitted
with the appropriate lighting.

To comply with SVA regulations lighting has to be E-marked and also positioned at a specific
height on the vehicle and have minimum angles of visibility.

As most of the lighting positions are moulded into the body shell the position requirement is
adhered to, all is necessary is that you purchase the correct E-marked lighting.

Below is a list of the compulsory lighting required for a motor vehicle to comply with SVA
regulations.

63
 Front position side lamps x2
Dipped beam headlight x2
Main beam headlight x2
Direction indicators x4
Hazard warning signal lamps (as above: indicator lamps)
Rear position tail lamp x2
Stop lamp x2

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Side repeater lamp x2
Rear registration plate lamp x1

AR
Rear fog light x1
Rear retro reflectors. x2

As can be seen from the list the main lighting positions are moulded on the body shell, the
builder needs to be aware that the rear indicators are positioned above the brake/sidelights and

SC
side repeaters just above and in front of the side vent in the front wings.

The fog lamp can normally be positioned on the rear valance under the boot lid, the reflectors
on the body shell just under the rear stop lights or can be incorporated into the rear nudge bar.
(fig 8.20)
O RT
SP
AK

( fig 8.20)

The body mouldings are a guide as to the light fitting, the individual lights should be used to
mark out the precise position, drill pilot holes and open out with a file accordingly trial fitting
the lights as you enlarge the hole.

64
OVERRIDERS/NUDGEBARS

INFORMATION

Mounting brackets are supplied to fit the front overrider`s to the chassis, New type fits directly
to front inner wings. Older type the brackets attach to the chassis mounting either side of the
radiator ,when positioned they angle downwards from the chassis, the rear mounting points are
in the boot just inside the boot shut to the left and right metal brackets have been fibreglassed
into the boot floor this is also the case under the boot floor behind the rear valance.

S
The overrider’s use threaded stud to fix to the mounting bracket (most builders fit stainless steel
or chromed tubing over this as a sleeve for the cosmetic appearance).

AR
The builder can choose to just fit overrider`s or fit overrider`s and nudge bar.

If fitting both they will need to be drilled and bolted together and the threaded stud fitted to the
overrider`s (make sure this is of sufficient length to reach the mounting brackets through the
body.

PARTS REQUIRED
SC
RT
Overrider’s x4
Nudgebars x2 front and rear
Threaded stud x2 36 inches long
Stainless steel or chrome tube to sleeve over the stud
Nuts and washers for threaded stud
O

FITTING
SP

First temporarily fit the overrider brackets to the chassis (they will need holes drilling in them to
accept the overrider studding).
Cover the area either side of the grill/radiator opening with masking tape, with the stud and
sleeve fitted to the overrider`s, offer up to the body so as to mark holes onto the masking tape
were the sleeved stud will need to pass through this is achieved with trial and judgement (there
AK

are no fixed points to measure).

Were the holes need to be made for the sleeved stud to pass through bodyshell you will find due
to the contour of the body this dictates holes will not be a perfect circle, but slightly oval,
drill a pilot hole and gradually open out with a round file continually offering up the overriders
nudge bars until the desired size and position is achieved.

Once the sleeved stud can pass through the bodyshell push in until the stud touches the
mounting brackets, keep checking alignment and mark on the brackets were the stud touches
and then remove overriders/nudgebar and also the mounting brackets, drill the required holes
into the brackets for the threaded stud, refit and once again offer up the overriders/nudgebar.

NEW STYLE BRACKET post August 2002

Bolts directly to inner wings and consist of just the 90-degree angle steel. see (fig 8.21).
65
You can now bolt it into position, (nuts will need to be used both sides of the stud/bracket to
clamp assembly securely). (fig 8.21)

S
AR
SC
O RT

( fig 8.21)
SP

SVA RADIATOR APERTURE DEFLECTOR

As a requirement of SVA regulations the front opening to the radiator is fitted with a deflector
wing/bar to prevent injury to persons in the event of an accident, it is a requirement that the
AK

aperture is not large enough to allow the SVA testers knee form sphere to pass through, the AK
deflector when positioned in the centre of the opening prevents this and also complies with the
SVA regulation.

FITTING

Brackets will need to be fabricated to attach the wing/deflector to the overider brackets or an
alternative is to use 90-degree angle brackets and attach/fix the deflector to the inner wings
using bolts or rivets through the deflector and the inner wings, (fig 8.22).

66
 S
AR
SC
O RT
SP

( fig 8.22)
AK

SEATBELTS

The seatbelts for the AK are the 3 point harness variety , and are attached to the chassis rails
were they meet the floor toward the rear in the seat tub for the lower attachments, the upper
attachment is under the scuttle to the previously fitted eyebolt. (fig 8.7 / 8.23)

:IMPORTANT:

THE CORRECT FITTING OF SEATBELTS MUST BE ADHERED TO, THE SAFE

FITTING IS IMPERATIVE. FOLLOW THE SEATBELT MANUFACTURERS
INSTRUCTIONS. THE USE OF HIGH TENSILE BOLTS TO ANCHOR THE
SEATBELTS IS REQUIRED BY LAW.

67
The lower seatbelt mounts are threaded to accept the fixing bolts, the fixing bolts required are
specific to the fitment of seatbelts and are of high tensile steel usually but not always these bolts
will be marked with 8.8.

The threads for the fixing bolts may need chasing out with a tap of the correct thread to ease the
fastening of the bolts. (7/16 UNF)

S
AR
SC
O RT
SP
AK

( fig 8.23)

68
 CHAPTER NINE.

COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL

INFORMATION

The pedal box and heater box are both fitted to the bulkhead from inside the engine bay, there
attachment however is from inside the cockpit, although covered in this chapter, both of these
items are best fitted to the bodyshell prior to fitting the body to the chassis.

S
The scuttle hoop under the dashboard area of the cockpit has the attachment points/brackets for
the steering column and wiper motor pre-fitted although the steering column bracket is pre -

AR
drilled the wiper motor bracket the flat steel plate welded to scuttle on the right is not pre-
drilled this in order to allow positioning/adjustment of wiper motor.

The handbrake attaches to the drivers side outer chassis rail in the cockpit area using the
supplied bracket (this will need drilling to attach lever to it and also to attach to chassis).

PEDAL BOX ASSEMBLY

INFORMATION
SC
RT
Pedal box assembly consists of mounting plate pedals and servo/brake master cylinder, removal
of the master cylinder is preferable before fitting pedal box assembly to bulkhead, (retained to
servo by two nuts) . You will have dismantled the pedal box earlier to have the brake and clutch
pedal modified, reassembled pedals to pedal box before fitting to your AK as it is not possible to
fit pedals to pedal box once it is in the car. If not already fitted remember to fit the brake light
O

switch also.

FITTING
SP

With pedals reassembled to pedal box mounting plate, introduce pedal mounting plate to the
drivers side bulkhead from inside the engine bay, there are eight holes already pre-drilled as is
the pedal box opening for the eight bolt studs fitted to the pedal box , push firmly against
bulkhead and either support with something or have someone hold it in place whilst washers and
attachment bolts are fitted to the eight bolt studs. Refit the master cylinder now if you wish or
AK

once bodyshell is on chassis.

STEERING COLUMN

INFORMATION

The upper column bracket/attachment point is in the drivers side cockpit area and consists of
two brackets welded to the square tubing scuttle frame just to the right of the transmission
tunnel , also directly in line with the bracket/attachment point is a pre drilled hole about an inch
in diameter in the bulkhead/firewall to the left of the pedal box assembly, this is for the splined
end of the steering column to pass through to the lower steering column support .
The lower support bracket can be modified if preferred by filing/grinding the mounting
escutcheon sides. (fig 9.1)
69
 S
AR
PARTS REQUIRED
SC (fig 9.1)

The rover steering column from your donor vehicle complete with upper attachment bolts and
adjustable tilt bracket, lower column support (bracket splined end passes through) and wiring
RT
harness for wipers/lights and horn/washers.

FITTING
O

The Rover steering column is attached to the two attachment brackets using the existing rover
column attachment bolts , the splined end support passes through the hole in the bulkhead and is
supported using the mounting bracket/ bush which is bolted to the bulkhead/firewall in the
SP

engine bay. using the two holes in the bracket drill appropriate holes in the bulkead above and
below the 1 inch hole the splined end of column passes through. The supplied steering rack to
column extension can now be fitted to the steering rack, ensure the roadwheels point straight
ahead and fit the extention with the longer end toward steering rack fit the lower universal joint
to steering rack aligning splines and pinch bolt with groove in steering rack splined attachment
point, repeat procedure for upper universal joint making sure steering wheel if fitted is in
AK

straight ahead position.

HANDBRAKE

INFORMATION

The AK supplied handbrake attachment bracket needs to be drilled to accept the XJS
handbrake lever, the triangular part of the bracket is drilled with three 8mm holes as per
diagram the uppermost hole for the central support bolt of handbrake lever and the two
attachment holes below to secure lever to bracket, the bracket also needs two holes in the
rectangular base drilling to attach to the chassis. (fig 9.2)

70
 S
AR
FITTING
SC (fig 9.2)

The bracket is attached to the offside outer chassis rail just above the seat belt mounting bolt
hole. There is already one hole drilled in the chassis for body to chassis attachment bolt, place
RT
approximately 1.5" to 2" in front of the bolt. Drill and tap chassis M8 / M10, bolt into place.
(Alternatively you can drill all the way through the chassis rail and nut and bolt).
O
SP
AK

(fig 9.3)

71
The AK supplied handbrake cable will now require fitting, the adjustment end toward calipers,
a hole for the cable to pass through will need to be drilled in the rear of the cockpit wall, pass the
cable from under the offside/drivers rear wheel arch through the hole and attach to the
handbrake lever assembly, attach the adjustable end to the rear brake calipers, you will also
need to secure the cable outer to the underside of the wheel arch using a cable tie so it does not
foul on the rear wheel. (fig 9.4)

S
AR
SC
O RT
SP

(fig 9.4)
AK

72
HEATING SYSTEM

INFORMATION

As with the pedal box it is preferable to fit the heater box to the body before fitting body to
chassis, as it is also attached from inside the engine bay.

The heating system consists of heater box and matrix salvaged from Volkswagen polo, two
windscreen demister vents (it is a requirement of SVA regulations to be able to demist the
windscreen).

S
PARTS REQUIRED…….

AR
Heater box complete with matrix from mk11 polo.
Side entry heater vents 1 ½-inch outlet. x2 (plastic)
Heater ducting 1 ¾ inch I.D. 1 metre
Demister vent x 2 (chrome)
Heater/vent box (AK supplied)
Fresh air ports

FITTING
SC
x 2 (to fit to AK heater vent box) (sink waste pipe can be used)
O RT
SP
AK

DO NOT REMOVE FLANGE (fig 9.5)

73
Where the heater box mates to the bulkhead DO NOT REMOVE the angled plastic flange
from the matrix/mounting face of the heater box case, (fig 9.5 is incorrect) this assembly can be
introduced to the bulkhead/firewall from inside the engine bay, it needs to be positioned
centrally on the angled face just above the transmission tunnel, mark around the the heater box
with a mark-er pen, then put heater assembly to one side, the rectangular outline you have
marked now needs to be drawn again 10 to 15 mm inside the original line so as to leave a
mounting surface for the heater box, you will then need to cut an opening in the bulkhead
following this line. (fig 9.6)

S
AR
SC
O RT
SP

(fig 9.6)
AK

After first coating the mating surface with a sealant/glue (gripfil works well) the heater box
assembly is then held in place from inside the engine bay whilst from inside the cockpit self-
tapping screws are inserted through the fibreglass into the plastic surround of the heater box.

HEATER VENT BOX

You will now need to make two holes in the fibreglass heater box distribution cover supplied by
AK on the upper face, using fresh air ports or plastic waste pipe (usually used under the sink)
make holes and fit to the heater vent box, then attach this box over the opening inside the
cockpit that you made for the heater box. ( fig 9.7),

There is a mating/attachment flange at the top of the heater/vent box for bolting/screwing into
the scuttle hoop, seal around the box with some form of sealant to prevent air leakage.
74
Next position and fit the demister vents to the top of the dashboard close enough to allow an
even coverage to allow the blown air to demist the windscreen (the positions are marked
approximately by AK before the body/chassis leaves the factory), slots will need to be cut in the
top of the scuttle/dash and fixing holes, using the demister vents as a template place masking
tape on the upper dash/scuttle were they are to be placed, mark the slot and fixing holes then
remove demister vent and drill and file slots for the air form heater/blower to pass through,
introduce the side entry vents to the underside of the scuttle/dash and using sealant/glue fix to
underside of slots then secure using nut and bolt fixing through the holes in the demister vent
through scuttle/dash into the side entry heater vents, finally cut the heater ducting to length and

S
fit to top of AK supplied heater box and to the side entry heater vents.

AR
SC
O RT
SP
AK

(fig 9.7)

75
WINDSCREEN WIPERS

INFORMATION

The wiper system for the AK 427 is a three blade system , the system is left hand parking
Ie: drivers side.

The system must be self-parking, perform a minimum 110 degree sweep of the windscreen, have

S
at least two speeds one of which performs a minimum of 45 cycles per minute to comply with
SVA regulations, .

AR
The amount of the sweep of the wiper system is determined by the wiper gear in the wiper
motor, the self-parking of the wipers when system is switched of is enabled by small plastic ramp
attached to the wiper gear, it is the position of this which determines which side wipers park.

SC
O RT
SP
AK

(fig 9.8)

76
PARTS REQUIRED …….

Wiper motor (complete with gear if possible) (Lucas or BLMC)

Rubber base pad
Bracket/clamp
Wiper gear (if not pre-fitted to motor)
Wiper rack
Bundy tubing
Wiper wheel boxes x3
Spacer tubing for wheel boxes x3 (rubber hose can be used)

S
Wiper arms x3 (bayonet type 5.2mm adjustable)
wiper blades x3 (10 inch bayonet fit 5.2mm blades)

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Before fitting the wiper motor to your AK the wiper gear will need to be installed in the wiper
motor (if not already pre-fitted) , on the wiper gear there is a small raised plastic ramp which
can be position in varying places on the gear this determines the self park of wipers when
switched off (Ie : system will complete its sweep of windscreen and park /rest wipers at base of
screen on drivers side) , position the ramp so when wipers are switched off the rack is in the fully

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extended position out of the motor , this will ensure that with the rack running through the
wheel boxes rack and tube positioned at the bottom (fig 9.8 /9.10) the wiper arms will park on
the right hand/drivers side .
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(fig 9.9)

FITTING

Cover the scuttle in front of the windscreen with masking tape using the measurements in
diagram , place the wiper escutcheon / bezel and gasket with the rear edge up against the
rubber seal at base of windscreen , (position can be checked by placing wiper blade and arm
over escutcheon / bezel to check wiper is in correct position in relation to screen) mark the
centre using the gasket as a template then drill smaller hole than required through the scuttle at
an angle equivalent to that of the escutcheon / bezel , open out the hole with a round file
maintaining the angle until the wheel box will fit through from underneath the scuttle (ie: in the
cockpit) fit spacer tube to wheel box ( rubber hose can be used , cut to length and angle).

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Temporarily fit wheel boxes in place, wheel boxes should be positioned with rack at the bottom
so rack will run underneath .

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(fig 9.10)
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WIPER MOTOR

Fit the rack to the wiper motor but do not fit the tubing at this time , the wiper motor complete
with rack can be mounted to the plate provided in the upper right hand corner of the scuttle
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hoop in the cockpit just to the right of the steering column mounting.

Separate the backplate from wheel boxes and run rack through them ensuring wheel boxes are
positioned so rack is at the bottom replace covers and fasten.
Offer wiper motor up to mounting plate complete with rubber base plate and clamp / bracket
ensuring there are no kinks in the rack and it has a smooth run ,whilst holding motor in position
mark holes for the attachment bolts ,remove motor and drill required holes , further offer up
wiper motor and bolt into place .

The outer tubing for the rack will need to be cut to length , determine the length of each piece by
measuring from wiper motor to wheel box and then from wheel box to wheel box were rack runs
through allow extra ½ inch as the tube needs to be flared to enable clamping into place by wheel
box , ensure tube runs smoothly with out any sharp bends or kinks , thoroughly lubricate the
wiper rack with grease then insert it through the tubes clamping them in wheel boxes as you go .
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INSTRUMENT PANEL

The instrument panel supplied with your AK is constructed of GRP/fibreglass and moulded to
fit the bodyshell under the dash/scuttle, it will have come pre-fitted to the underside of the
dash/scuttle and is attached with several butterfly nuts and washers.
It is complete with an open glovebox, it is also necessary to cut out the steering column aperture,
several threaded studs are glassed into the back of the instrument panel with which to attach to
the mounting lip provided under the dash/scuttle for that purpose,

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some preparation is required before trimming the instrument panel with your desired
upholstery, namely the apertures for the various instruments and switchgear.

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PREPARATION

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Using the various instruments/ switches and warning lights mark out the positions and sizes for
the apertures to be cut, you can use the relevant hole saws to aid this task or alternatively drill
pilot holes around the inside of the marked apertures then cut away the excess using a half
round file to smooth the circular apertures and flat file for the switches.
RT
Usually the chosen covering for your instrument panel will be folded into the apertures which
will require that the apertures are made slightly larger to accommodate the instruments/
switches as well as the chosen covering.

Once the instrument panel has been upholstered to your requirements the various instruments
and switches can be re-fitted and the wiring to said items embarked upon.
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:NOTE:
THE APERTURES WILL NEED TO BE LARGER THAN THE INSTRUMENTS AND
SWITCHES BY UP TO 2mm TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THE THICKNESS OF
THE COVERING MATERIAL
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FITTING

To fit the instrument panel to the bodyshell is just a case of offering it up to the small lip under
the dash/scuttle and fastening into place with the supplied butterfly nuts and washers, the lower
part of the instrument panel can either be attached using self tapping screws thru the side panels
into the transmission tunnel or fixing brackets sourced by the builder to the panels with which to
attach to the transmission tunnel. (9.11)

During the fitting of various other items and fitting and checking wiring the instrument panel
will be in and out several times, it is wise to delay permanent fitting until all necessary work has
been carried out.
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(fig 9.11)
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INSTRUMENTS and SWITCHGEAR

Most builders will fit a full compliment of gauges/instruments, but the requirements of the law
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and SVA regulations dictate specific instruments and warning lights are compulsory.

Speedometer
Brake warning lamp
Fog light warning lamp
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Full beam warning lamp

Indicator warning lamp
Hazard warning indication lamp

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 CHAPTER TEN

ELECTRICAL

WIRING LOOM

INFORMATION

Electrical installation in the AK is a 12 volt negative earth, comprising of a 12volt battery which

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is to be located in the boot offside recess, an alternator for charging said battery and pre-
engaged starter motor, the battery supplies the current to the ignition system lighting and other

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electrical circuits and provides reserves of electricity when the current consumed by the
electrical system exceeds that be produced by the charging system (alternator).

With this in mind it is extremely important that the wiring system (loom) can cope with
demands put on it and it is adequately earthed, started motors require a lot current and put
great demands on the system and it is necessary to use the correct gauge and amperage of wiring
throughout.
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IT IS A REQUIREMENT OF SVA REGULATIONS THAT THERE IS
ADEQUATE ELECTRICAL SUPPRESSION to the IGNITION SYSTEM.
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AND THAT ALL CABLES ARE SECURED TO THE BODY/CHASSIS

It is possible to construct the wiring harness yourself from scratch but unless you are a skilled
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auto electrician it can be seen as quite a daunting task,

The wiring loom supplied by AK is purpose built for your needs and complete with harnesses
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and plugs to directly plug into your wiper/washer/lights and indicator harness on the Rover
steering column, it is complete with relay box and relays, fuse box and fuses, voltage stabilizer
and there are separate connectors and harness for connection to the dashboard instruments
for which you make up your own wiring to clocks/instruments.

The loom is complete with wiring diagram and wiring identification list, there is sufficient
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length of wire for all connections.

PARTS REQUIRED

AK Wiring loom
Battery 12 volt negative earth
Positive battery cable (red) (15 feet approx) 135amp due to long run of cable
Negative battery cable (black)
Positive battery terminal/connector
Negative battery terminal/connector
Battery cut-off switch/key
Instruments ( speedometer/rev counter/volt meter/ fuel gauge/temp gauge etc)
Rocker Switches (fog lights/heater/hazard warning etc) (must comply with SVA)
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Warning lights (ignition/brake fluid level/indicators/full beam)
Cable ties /cable clips
Spade connectors (male and female)
Bullet connectors
Rubber grommets
Loom tape

FITTING

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Lay the full loom out on the floor, although the loom is supplied as one piece it is separated into
legs for different areas of the car, using the loom layout diagram and wires list, prepare the loom

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for fitting to the car by firstly identifying the different legs and label them with masking tape, as
the wires are colour coded for each individual item the legs can be identified this way.

LEG 1 ENGINE BAY

LEG 2 OFF-SIDE FRONT LOOM
LEG
LEG
LEG
LEG
3
4
5
6
OFF-SIDE TO REAR INTO BOOT
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INSIDE COCKPIT (across scuttle hoop)
NEARSIDE FRONT LOOM
COCKPIT (across scuttle hoop)
LEG 7 STEERING COLUMN
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Once you have identified and labelled the individual legs of the loom, proceed to label the
individual wires as to there various connections using the wires list supplied with the loom and
supplied in this chapter for your perusal along with loom layout diagram.
O

With the loom completely labelled place LEG 4/6/7 into the cockpit across in front of scuttle
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hoop.
At the top of each of the foot wells behind the scuttle hoop top left of passenger foot well and top
right of drivers foot well are access holes for the loom to pass through,
LEG 2 passes through top right/drivers side foot well access hole to engine bay,
LEG 5 runs across the scuttle hoop in the cockpit before then passing through access hole top
left/ passenger side foot well into engine bay,
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LEG 1 runs around the raised part of the floor pan drivers side across front of drivers foot well
below pedal box and through access hole into engine bay (fit rubber grommet over cable were it
passes through to engine bay.

For LEG 3 to pass into the boot an access hole needs to be made in the rear bulkhead run LEG 3
along under drivers side door and up rear bulkhead make a hole for loom to pass through into
wheel arch space and from wheel arch into boot space.

LEG 6 must be secured to the scuttle hoop as it passes from driver`s side over to passenger side,
You will find that the fuse box relay connector and plugs to dashboard harness will all be on/in
passenger side, the fuse box and relays need to be mounted up under the scuttle and secured
remembering you will at times need access to the fuses and relays, a steel plate can be fabricated
to bolt to the scuttle for the fuse box and relays to be mounted on, ( fig 10.2).

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(fig 10.1)

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(fig 10.2)
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Once all individual legs of loom are to there respective areas the various connections can be
made to each component,
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there are earth connections at various parts of the loom ( BROWN wire) it is important a good
clean connection is made for these to the chassis, there is one as part of LEG 6 attach this to the
scuttle hoop after first drilling and tapping a hole to attach it.
The earth on LEG 5 and LEG 2 can be bolted to the chassis to body mounting under the front
wheel arches.

Most components will require spade connectors however the connections to the headlights will
more than likely be bullet connectors, make sure all connections are secure and spade
connectors are covered with protective boot, spade connectors can be soldered if required and
wire connections covered with heat shrink, secure the loom using cable ties that run under wheel
arches were loom passes to front lights and ensure were wiring runs it is secured to body or
chassis, loose wires will chaff with the vibration and movement of the vehicle leading to shorts in
the electrical circuit and possibly to a fire.

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BATTERY CABLE

The positive (live/red) battery cable runs the length of the vehicle due to the battery being
mounted in the boot, as with all long runs of cable it is wise to use a higher amperage of cable to
avoid overheating of cable and current drop.
The cable passes through the hole at the foot of the driver’s foot well along with LEG 1 of the
wiring loom.

Ensure a rubber grommet is used were cables pass through bodywork, the battery cable runs

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across foot well along the length of vehicle under the door frame up the rear bulkhead through
access hole made for LEG 3 of wiring loom here it passes under offside rear wheel arch were it is

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secured with cable ties installed by AK then through into the boot area above recess at rear of
boot off side were the battery mounts.

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(fig 10.3)

The battery cut off switch is bolted to the chassis and used as the earth/negative lead to the
battery, bolt bracket for switch to chassis using attachment bolt for boot floor to chassis next to
battery position, bolt battery cut-off key switch to bracket and negative/earth lead to switch and
battery, when you remove the key from the switch this separates the earth and cuts current to
the electrics. (fig 10.3)

Were the battery is mounted in the boot it is important that it is firmly secured using retaining
bracket or strap or a battery box can be utilized, ensure adequate ventilation if using battery
box.

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(fig 10.4)
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(fig 10.5)

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(fig 10.6)

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WIPER WIRING

When using the AK wiring loom it is in some cases necessary to change the pin configuration on
the wiper stalk/on-off switch, when an intermittent relay is placed in the relay block of the
wiring loom and intermittent is selected on the wiper switch/stalk it causes the fuse for the
wipers to blow, to solve this problem carry out the procedure below.

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The wiper stalk is on the right hand side of the column and has 4 positions when facing the
steering column these are:-

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SPEED 2
SPEED 1
OFF
INTERMITTENT

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Remove the wiper switch assembly from the rover steering column the wires have bullet
connectors to pins on the stalk/switch, below is the original wiring pin numbers/wiring colour
code, followed by the new configuration.
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CURRENT PIN CONFIGURATION

PIN 1… GREEN / BLUE

PIN 2… BROWN / GREEN
PIN 3… BROWN /GREEN + LINK WIRE TO WASHER (BLACK)
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PIN 4… YELLOW / GREEN

PIN 5… BROWN / LT GREEN
PIN 6… WHITE / GREEN
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PIN 7… RED / GREEN + LINK WIRE TO PIN 8

PIN 8… RED / GREEN + LINK WIRE TO PIN 7

CHANGE TO
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PIN 1… GREEN / BLUE

PIN 2… BROWN / GREEN
PIN 3… BROWN / LT GREEN + LINK TO WASHER (BLACK)
PIN 4… WHITE / GREEN
PIN 5… RED / GREEN + LINK WIRE TO PIN 8
PIN 6… YELLOW / GREEN
PIN 7… BROWN / GREEN
PIN 8… RED / GREEN + LINK WIRE TO PIN 5

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 CHAPTER ELEVEN

COCKPIT/COMPONENTS UPHOLSTERY

INFORMATION

This chapter covers the fitting of your interior carpet/ side panels/door panels seats and
dashboard, all these items the trim level is a matter up to the individuals choice, carpet sets can

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be purchased from a professional carpet trimmer as can the trimming of the seats/door
panels/and dashboard be contracted out to an upholstery trimmer.

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If the builder chooses to do this himself with a little care and forethought the task can be made
much easier.

The use of cardboard or paper templates to fashion up the door panel/dashboard material and
carpet will ensure a proper fit before cutting the material/carpet.

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The time and care taken with this will determine the overall quality of the cars presentation.
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CARPETS

The carpet for your AK will need to be cut to size and glued into place using upholstery/carpet
glue (sourced from your carpet supplier).
O

The alternative is to get a carpet set made up by sourcing out to a qualified trimmer.

The diagram provided (fig 11.1) gives an idea as to the order it is best to fit the carpet into your
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AK, cut templates if deemed necessary and mark onto carpet before cutting, check fit then apply
the glue to the area you are about to fit the piece of carpet and to the back of the carpet and then
give sufficient time for the glue to become almost dry as this will give a stronger bond.

Allow the carpet glue to dry sufficiently before fitting carpet finally to it, as it is a contact glue be
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sure of your positioning.

When carpeting the transmission tunnel the three pieces required will need to joined with trim
if required this can be sourced out to a qualified trimmer.

NOTE
ANY OVERSPRAY CAN EASILY BE REMOVED BY SPRAYING
DUCK OIL OR WD-40 ONTO A CLEAN RAG AND RUBBING THE
AREA FIRMLY.

The same process is used when carpeting the boot tub also.

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(fig 11.1)

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INTERIOR SIDE PANELS

The interior side panels supplied with your kit are made of fibreglass and are handed for the left
and right sides of the cockpit/seat tub area (fig 11.2), they are screwed to the timber inserts (put
in place when the door locks were fitted) they are also held in place by the door opening trim.

The trim panels are covered when you fit the carpet or can be carpeted before fitting inside the
cockpit.

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A trial fit is recommended as the panels will require some trimming to obtain a good fit, you will
find the panels are stepped toward the front so as to fit around the scuttle hoop supports (fig
11.2))

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(fig 11.2)
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DOOR PANELS

The door trim/panel can be attached to the door in a number of ways, if you had upholstery
buttons fitted when you had panel trimmed it is a simple case of drilling the holes were these are
on the panel (the door lock once re-fitted will also hold the panel in place), other alternatives are
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to use trim clips or several dome headed screws and cup washers.

SEATS

The seats for your AK do not need to sit on runners but are fixed directly to the floor, because
they are of a fibreglass shell ,if they do not have a strengthening insert in the base then make one
up with a piece of plate stainless steel or equivalent so the seat base is sandwiched between the
strengthening plate and the cockpit/seat tub floor , four fixing nuts and bolts will be required to
hold seat securely drill through strengthening plate the seat base the carpet and the floor and
insert bolts through the holes in strengthening plate/seat base and carpet floor and using
washers to spread the load and nyloc nuts on the bolts fix the seats securely (you will need to get
under the vehicle to tighten the four nuts).

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 CHAPTER TWELVE.

FINISHING

WHEELS AND TYRES

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AK can supply wheels and tyres with the correct offset.

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For 16 inch wheels.

tyre sizes

Front… 215/55/16 speed rating.. WR or higher

Rear … 245/55/16
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speed rating.. WR or higher

Offset and rim width - Please contact us

Front…
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Rear…

For 17 inch wheels

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Front… 215/50/17 speed rating.. WR or higher

Rear… 255/45/17 speed rating.. WR or higher

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Offset and rim width - Please contact us

Front…

Rear…
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Check the tyre pressures are correct, the manufacturer may recommend lower pressure due to
the lower weight of the car.

Front… 25 lbs psi.

Rear… 26 lbs psi.

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SUSPENSION

The dampers are adjustable on the AK as is the spring setting, the dampers control the bound
and rebound which is adjusted by a knurled knob at the base of the damper body fully turn the
knurled knob toward the - minus then back toward the + plus, 7 clicks to start with and further
adjust to suit the ride you prefer after suspension has settled.

The spring platforms can be screwed up or down but initially after SVA they need to be set to
maintain a gap between the top of the tyre and wheel arch of 1 ½ inches 60 to 70 mm as they will
settle as you use the car and will need re-adjustment.

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RIDE HEIGHT

The ride height will need adjusting during first usage several times as the suspension settles
but for the car to stay within the law when used on the public highway the front indicators
should be 350mm from the bottom of the indicator to the road surface.

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The toe in/out on the front wheels needs to be set at 4 mm, your local garage or tyre fitters can
do this as can AK.
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SPEEDOMETER

The speedometer calibration needs to set before the SVA test to comply with the regulations the
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speedometer is allowed a maximum under reading of the speed of 20 percent, there can be no
over reading of the speed.
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INDICATED SPEED MIN.TRUE SPEED

mph mph

35 26
AK

40 30
45 35
50 39
55 44
60 48
65 53
70 58

RUNNING IN

After 500 miles it is important that all nuts and bolts are checked to make sure none have
become loosened.

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