42

5 Mini Cheeseburger in Polymer Clay

by Sherry Wen
8 Braai Culture Caddy: Decoupage
by Denelda van der Westhuizen
10 Little Decorative Painted Houses
by Ronel Flemming Swart
14 Charly: Needle Felted Dog
by Charlize Stone
45 Needle Felted Emoji Fridge Magnets
18 Mosaic Tree Stump Table by Charlize Stone
by Petro Strijdom
20 A Sucker Stick Flower Pot for Mom 46 My Doll's House Journey: The Nursery
by Life is a Garden by Colleen Amos
22 Painted Porcelain Mug Set 48 Peyote With a Twist: Necklaces
by Cá Momberg
by Lizelle Hards and Christina Wynbergen
26 Primitive Folk Art Doll
by Sharon Calverley 62 Angel in Red: Decorative Painting
34 Print a Silk Scarf by Ronel Flemming Swart
by Melanie Brummer
68 Enamel Painting Fun for Kids
38 Leather Stationery Folder by Sue Human
by Geert Schuiling
42 Mosaic Karoo Sunset 70 Floral & Fruit Mosaic Mirror
by Ursula Janke by Mosaic Arts

2 Craftwise
 08 4
53
60
Editor’s Letter
Subscriptions
Back Issues
72 Smalls
73 Suppliers Index

32 Advertorial: How to use an OLFA Rotary Cutter

36 How to upcycle the fabrics in your stash

by Melanie Brummer

54 What to do in (and out of) the garden in May

by Life is a Garden

58 Vital Vegies for May: Sexy Spinach

by Life is a Garden

65 Pewter Inspritations
by Sandy Griffiths

66 Find Your Happy, Go Camping!

by Sue Human 10
Craftwise 3
 Who has their fingers in my brain??
Watching Mark Zuckerberg testifying before the US Senate
committee earlier this week I was struck by a whole range of
thoughts. Firstly was the realisation that technology has moved into a
realm than not even the young founder of Facebook envisaged or
even dreamed of. We all understand the term evolution and that
nothing ever stays the same, but the phenomenal rate of change is
what has left us all bewildered. That in just a few years the software
has become so powerful that sentences and even images can be
analyzed by algorithms to determine their suitability for a particular
segment of the population. Facebook software then decides who
should see or not see that text or image. You post a random photo of a
group. The software algorithms scan that photo and identify each
person in the group, linking their facial features to the Facebook
profiles and all other profiles in Facebook owned apps that you may
have on your phone or tablet. Just a few years ago that was beyond
science fiction, now it is a daily fact. I find that very scary.
The second thing that struck me hard was seeing a single person
having so much influence over so many people's lives - 2.2 BILLION at
the end of 2018. History has thrown up very powerful leaders who
hold sway over countries and even continents, but here we are seeing
a whole new world ruler in the making, with the power to manipulate
and even bring down entire governments. The power to influence and
direct people's political views, buying habits and lifestyles. In fact
there is no sphere of humanity that
escapes this influence. Before we accuse
Facebook of being the one and only enemy
of mankind, we should also consider that
there are other social media platforms
used which allow a level of instant sharing and debating which
circumvents all filters and controls. The US president's ability to cause
world choas with just one knee-jerk Tweet is a prime example. One angry
bellow from Trump and world markets plunge into hysteria. Methinks we
have gone one bridge too far with technology and I doubt if there is any
way back now. Twenty years ago if you read a newspaper headline that
upset you, all you could do was "phone a friend" and let off steam. Now
with just a few thumb movements you can scream your unhappiness at
the world and do your own bit to increase mass hysteria. Eventually I
suspect, we will all get to the point of mass numbness and we will
collectively shrug and say: "who cares..." And we are getting closer to that
point every day.
Enough philosophizing for now. In our little world of crafts, changes are
fortunately less sudden and less scary. So let me leave you in peace to
peruse this issue and get your hands dirty - but in a good way!

letters@craftwise.co.za 086 427 4480 PO Box 193, Mossel Bay 6500

The print version of Craftwise Magazine is sold in Craft Supply Shops,

Stationers, Supermarkets, Chain Stores & Newsagents throughout Southern
ISSN 1029 2837 Africa. Available by subscription worldwide in both print and digital formats.

PUBLISHING EDITOR
Owen Calverley
owen@tucats.co.za
SUB-EDITOR
Sharon Calverley
sharon@tucats.co.za
DESIGN CONSULTANT
Kim Kritzinger
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CK1995/51811/23 The copyright of designs featured in this magazine remains with
PO Box 193, Mossel Bay, 6500, South the originators of the designs and such designs may not be used
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 Mmmini cheeseburger and chips to go...

by Sherry Wen

Have you ever looked at your Big Mac and thought: "hmm, it
looks smaller than I remember..." Well here is the ultimate
mini burger and chips project from our newest contributor
Sherry Wen, a polymer clay artist who lives inTaiwan.
Beautiful as collectors' items or for putting on the table in a
miniature house!

REQUIREMENTS
Ÿ Polymer clay Ÿ Cutting surface
Ÿ Sculpey Transluscent Liquid (liquid clay) Ÿ Toothbrush
Ÿ Blade tool Ÿ Aluminium foil
Ÿ Needle tool Ÿ Sandpaper (texture)
Ÿ Toothpicks Ÿ White silica sand
Ÿ Sucker sticks Ÿ Domestic oven

Craftwise 5
 INSTRUCTIONS
THE CHEESEBURGER

The bun
Start by mixing a bun-coloured clay. I used
ecru: white: translucent clay in the ratio of
1:1:2.

Burger patty
Tint the bun with chalk pastel. I used light I used dark brown clay and translucent clay
brown followed by medium brown. in the ratio of 2:1. Chop the clay into little
bits and use aluminium foils to gather the
bits together to form a patty. Don't press
them too hard - they must have a ground
beef texture.
Roll a small ball of bun clay, roughly 1 cm in
diameter (left below). Press gently to form
the bun shape (right below).

Place the bun in the freezer for 5-10

minutes. Upon removing the clay from the
freezer, slice the bun in half. This gives a Build an even better burger with these
sharper cut edge of the bun which looks toppings:
more realistic.
Cheese
Mix orange and yellow clay to get a nice
To add texture to the bun, I used a tooth cheddar colour. Once you have achieved
brush all over. You can also press the the colour you like, add an equal amount of
aluminium foil slightly onto the top of your translucent to your coloured clay. Roll this
bun, leaving a wrinkled appearance. out into a thin sheet and cut out a small
square.

Texture the inner edge of the bottom bun

with needle a tool as some parts of the
inside of the bun might be visible.

6 Craftwise
Lettuce
Mix one part of green clay with three parts
of translucent. Roll this clay out into a
paper-thin sheet. Don't forget that clay
can stretch, too. Use a needle tool to tear
off various sized pieces.
Mayonnaise
Chop up some white clay into smaller bits.
Add an equal amount of liquid clay or TLS
(Translucent Liquid Sculpey). This does not
have to be exact. Using a wooden craft
stick, smash and smear the two clays
together until they become a thick
frosting. Thin, by adding more liquid clay
until your frosting is of the desired
consistency.
Tomato sauce
Mix a small amount of liquid clay with an
equal amount of red chalk pastel and a
pinch of dark pink chalk pastel.
Assembly and baking Roll the clay out into a sheet of 1.5 mm
Place the patty on the bottom half of the thick and cut out a rectangle. Press the
bun, pressing gently to combine. Then rectangle against a piece of sandpaper to
follow up with the toppings as you wish. add texture to both sides.
I used a toothpick to spread a little bit of
white clay frosting for mayonnaise, and
added tomato sauce. Let the 2 colours mix
in spots before pressing the bun on top of
the rest of the burger. Drag some sauces
down onto the toppings and patty or
create little drips. This will enhance the
messiness and realism of the burger.
Brush the rectangle with light and medium
brown chalk.
Bake your cheeseburger in a preheated
oven with manufacturer's recommended
times and temperatures and let them cool.
Brush varnish on the meat and fillings, and
a very thin coat on top of the bun.
Cut out skinny lengths of clay to form the
fries. If your plate is oven-safe, you can pile
your fries directly on the dish for baking;
pile them on your baking sheet just as you
want them to be in the finished piece. Add
some tomato sauce on the fries or on the
side as you wish. Bake according to the
manufacturer's instructions and let cool
completely.
French fries
To make chips, mix translucent with a
pinch of yellow.
Brush the fries with varnish and sprinkle a
bit of white sand on them. Once the
varnish has dried completely, dab on a
little bit more varnish to seal the sand in
place.
Now why not try a triple decker
cheeseburger?
Craftwise 7
 by Denelda van der Westhuizen
for Creative Talents Craft Shop

Braai Culture
We South Africans love to braai and it is a fundamental part of who we are! This braai
sauce and spice caddy with matching firelighter holder is perfect for keeping your braai
area neat and tidy. Not only that - they make great Father's Day gifts.

8 Craftwise
REQUIREMENTS
Ÿ Wooden caddy and wooden firelighter
holder
Ÿ Assorted paintbrushes
Ÿ Braai Culture scrapbook paper
Ÿ Braai Culture sticker sheet
Ÿ Tumbleweed creative chalk paint
Ÿ Sandpaper
Ÿ Podge
Ÿ Rubber roller
Ÿ Emery board
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Make sure the wooden items are
clean and dust free.
2. Remove the metal hooks and paint
the areas that will not be covered with the
scrapbook paper.
3. Paint the items with the chalk paint.
Use a medium tipped brush to apply the
paint. Allow to dry and apply a second
coat if necessary. Sand lightly so that it is
smooth to touch. Wipe the excess dust off
with a damp cloth.
4. Cover the front of the caddy with
page 1 (wood effect) of the Braai Culture
scrapbook paper. Cut the paper to size
adding a small overlap on the sides.
5. Apply podge to the wood and
carefully lay the paper onto the wet podge.
6. Use a rubber roller and roll over the
paper to secure it and to remove the
excess glue and any bubbles under the
paper. Wipe the excess podge off with a
damp cloth.
7. Using the same technique as above,
attach page 5 (red check) to the sides of
Ÿ Jute rope
Ÿ Scissors
Ÿ Glue gun
Ÿ Clear gloss varnish
All products available from Creative
Talents 016 427 1030
the caddy.
8. For the front of the firelighter holder
I used page 3 (coloured stripes). Remove
any excess paper with an emery board, fine
san paper or a craft knife.
9. Apply a coat of podge to all the
surfaces of the caddy and firelighter holder
and allow to dry.
10. Cut out items from pages 6 and 18 to
embellish the fronts of the caddy and
firelighter holder. Podge the paper
embellishments in place.
11. Once they are dry you can stick on
any of the stickers from the sticker range
that you like.
12. Use the glue gun and drop a small
blob of glue on the one end on the caddy’s
handle. While the glue is still sticky place
the end of the jute rope in the glue.
Caution: Don’t burn yourself! Wrap the
jute rope around the handle of the caddy
and end the handle in the same fashion as
you started, using the glue gun.
13. Add the jute rope details on the front
of the firelighter holder using a glue gun to
secure the rope.
14. Varnish the caddy and the firelighter
holder with clear gloss varnish. Allow each
coat to dry before you apply the next one.
Three coats will work best for the items.
15. Lastly stick on the cut-out
embellishments. Voila! A lovingly made gift
for the man in your life!
Craftwise 9
 Little Painted Houses

These cute little fantasy houses are not only fun to paint, but add a whimsical touch to
your décor. My houses are displayed in my kitchen but they will work equally well on a
windowsill or sideboard - wherever you want to display them! They remind me of little
houses The Borrowers would live in.

10 Craftwise
REQUIREMENTS
Ÿ 3 wooden houses (I bought mine Titanium white Mustard seed
from Paperworld, 012 250 1477) Black Moon yellow
Ÿ Your choice of wooden cut outs Buttermilk Country blue
suitable for the theme you want Oyster beige Brilliant red
to paint Driftwood Festive green
Ÿ Embellishments: strips of pewter Mississippi mud Yellow ochre
(or tin), buttons etc. Burnt umber
Ÿ Deco-Art Decorating Paste Soft black
Ÿ Small pallet knife Paynes grey
Ÿ Americana stencils (your choice) Prussian blue
Ÿ Assortment of paintbrushes Teal green
Ÿ Americana paint (I used the same Black green
colours for all three houses): Hauser med. green
by Ronel Fleming Swart
email: ronelsart@gmail.com

INSTRUCTIONS

The Owl House or as few cut outs as you like - after all it is
I had tremendous fun cutting and making your little village!
pewter strips for the roof. You can attach
to roof using a glue gun or thin double-
sided tape.

2. Sketch in the wooden planks, strips,

freehand. You want the final look to be like
an old weathered barn. Basecoat with The Teddy House
driftwood adding in depth with your brown
colours. Paint in thin lines with Paynes
grey to resemble planks. I used dark
Prussian blue highlighted with buttermilk
for the windows.

3. Paint in the garden (we have done

1. Sketch the doors and windows very
accurately. This is entirely your design so
you can draw in all types of windows,
doors etc. The houses have four sides, so
you can really have a lot of fun making four
different sides.
flowers many times in the previous issues -
refer back to them to see how).
I used black green for the shadowy green
areas and highlighted with lighter greens.
The flowers I dotted in.
4. Paint in your window treatments and
sign. I attached owl buttons and painted
little sheep cut outs. These I just glued in
place with a glue gun. You can add as many

Craftwise 11
 1. Basecoat with Prussian blue.
Highlight with white. Sketch in the
windows and the awning.

2. Paint in the teddies in the windows.

(You have painted teddies in previous
issues - refer back to them).

3. Now paint the awning with teal

green and white.

4. For the roof effect -use decorating

paste and a pallet knife to make the roof
resemble thatch. Once dry, paint dark
brown and highlight with yellow ochre and
moon yellow.

Blue Bird House 2. Accurately measure and sketch in

1. Basecoat with Mississippi mud windows (see above).
then use different browns and beiges to
paint in the stonework. 3. Paint the inside of the windows with
moon yellow to depict light in the
windows.

4. Sketch in and paint the bird cages.

5. Apply decorating paste to the roof

with a pallet knife. When dry, paint with
Payne's grey.

6. Dry-brush over the roof with

different shades of green then highlight
with citron green.

7. Attach the signboard to front of

house (if you decided to use one). Attach
bird embellishments.

8. Paint in garden and flowers in

window.

I hope you have enjoyed making your little

houses and that you enjoy painting the
next project - the angel!
5. Again I have used buttons and
wooden cut outs to embellish the house.
Ronel
12 Craftwise
 Charly

the
Dalmation
by Charlize Stone

Charly, the last in our Kennel Club Series,

stands just 15 cm high
14 Craftwise
REQUIREMENTS
ŸWool roving: white (100 g), elephant grey
(15 g) and black (15 g)
ŸNeedle felting sponge
INSTRUCTIONS
Use white wool roving to make the head,
legs, body, ears and tail. Use the diagrams
as an indication of the size and shape of
each body part.
Place wool onto the sponge and poke it
with the felting needle. The more you
poke in one place the more compacted
that part will become. For round shapes
you will roll the wool into a ball and turn it
while poking it continuously.
You can adjust the size and shape of all the
body parts by either poking it some more
or adding small amounts of roving where
needed.
Head:
Punch indentations on both sides of the
head (above the muzzle) to form the eye
sockets. Make sure the eye sockets are
ŸFelting needle ŸStrong thread
ŸReverse/inverted felting needle
Ÿ12 mm glass eyes
aligned. Add small amounts of white wool to the
inside of each lower eye lid to add some
Shape the mouth by needle felting a character.
vertical line from where the nose will be to
the mouth area and needle felt an inverted Use white roving for the ears. Start off
“v” to form the mouth. with a small amount of roving, you can
always add more. Your ears should be nice
Use the black roving to make a little nose. and thin when finished, about 3-4 mm.
Attach it to the face by carefully needle Use the diagram as a reference.
felting it along the base. You can make 2
nostrils by poking tiny holes on either side Attaching the ears: Place one ear on the
of the nose. side of the head with the base in the shape
of an “u” and attach it to the head by
Use strong thread to insert the eyes. felting along the bottom outer and inner
Thread it through the wire loop of the glass edge of the ear.
eye and thread both ends through the
needle. Insert the needle where the eye Attach the other ear the same way.
socket is and push it through to the back of
the head. Repeat this step for the other
eye and make sure they are aligned. Start
with one eye, pull the thread tightly so that
the eye appears sunken in its “socket”.
Secure the thread by tying a few knots.
Repeat with the other eye.
Now the fun part starts…making the spots.
Use Elephant Grey to make the spots – it is
your Dalmatian, so you can decide on their
size and shape.
Take a little white roving and needle felt it
to the back of the head to cover the thread
ends sticking out.
Make 4 small eyelids using black wool and
attach each eye to the face by carefully
felting it around each eye.
Poke along the outside of the eye with
your felting needle until the eyelids are in
place.
Craftwise 15
 Add black roving on top of the grey leaving
a small grey border – this creates a more
natural transition from the white to the
black.
Do not make the spots at the back of the
head yet, that you will do after you have
attached the body.
Now attach the body to the head by needle
felting the neck edge onto the bottom of
the head.
Turn your Dalmatian sideways and upside
down to secure the body to the head from
all angles.
Felt the legs onto the body, but not too
much - first make sure that your dog can
stand up straight and that all 4 paws are
touching the ground before securing it.
Attach the tail to the back of the body.
SOURCE: Contact Charlize for kits and products on 060 963 3606 or e-mail: info@charlizestone.com
Website: www.charlizestone.com Facebook: Charlizestone
16 Craftwise
Add spots to the back of the head as well as
the rest of the body, legs and tail.
When the spots are done, your dog will look
complete, but he isn't! Now we add the
finishing touches and this is where your
inverted felting needle comes in.
Use this needle to start poking your dog
from just behind his nose all the way back to
the tip of his tail! Inverted felting needles
have barbs pointing in the opposite
direction as regular felting needles, so it
pulls the fiber outward instead of pushing
and felting fiber inward. We use this needle
to create a softer, more furry look. See the
photos below where I used the inverted
needle only on one half of the face. It is
subtle but makes a huge difference in the
overall look.
While working with your inverted needle, it
will feel as if you are unpicking all your hard
work... Just keep going until you have
covered the whole dog.
Now carefully cut off the long fluff by
holding the scissor blades flat and close to
the body – see photo.
Congrats! Your little Charly is all done!
 FRONT LEG
Make 2, 1 reversed
HEAD
Side View
NOSE

EAR
Make 2

HEAD
Top View

HIND LEG
Make 2
1 reversed

TAIL

BODY

Craftwise 17
 Mosaic a
Tree Stump Table

This wooden stump is actually my husband's braai table!

I decided that it was a perfect candidate for a makeover. You could by Petro Strijdom
use a tree stump or a small table - whatever you have on hand! for Trunell Crafts

18 Craftwise
REQUIREMENTS
Ÿ Flexible tile adhesive
Ÿ Grout: dove grey or black
Ÿ Rubber kidney or old credit card for grouting
Ÿ Ceramic or glass tile for background
Ÿ Variety of ceramic houses, flowers, trees, bushes and other inserts of your choice
Ÿ Tile nipper
All products available from Trunell
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Place the ceramic inserts in a round
design along the edge of the stump and
glue using the flexible tile adhesive. I
decided to leave about 1,5 cm of space
around the edge with no tiles and leave the
wood visible. The edges of the inserts
create an interesting border in itself.
2. Cut the tiles for the background in
smaller pieces and mosaic the inner circle
of the design. Leave to dry.
3. Mix the grout as per manufacturer’s
instructions until you get the consistency
of mayonnaise.
Tip: Ceramic tiles are porous so the grout
needs to be quite runny. If it is too thick it
will be difficult to fill the gaps in between
the tiles.
4. Work the grout over the tiles with a
rubber kidney or your hand, making sure
the grout fill all the spaces.
5. Use a rubber squeegee or kidney to
remove the excess grout from the surface
of the mosaic before completing the
grouting.
6. Use a toothpick or old toothbrush to
clean the grout around the inserts.
7. Use a paper towel to clean the
rest of the grout of the tiles and then polish
it with a soft cloth.
Craftwise 19
 REQUIREMENTS by Life is a Garden

Tin cans (with holes made in the bottom for drainage)

Ÿ Glue
Ÿ Ribbon

20 Craftwise
A Sucker Stick flowerpot for Mom
Mom, the modern day superhero, always running around after us and making sure we have everything we
need. With Mother's Day coming up, there's no better time to show our moms how much they mean to us.
A hand-crafted gift from the heart is the best way to surprise mom this Mother's Day. It's time for the dads
to take the stage and help their little ones make the perfect present for mom - an ice cream stick flower pot.

There's no doubt about it - moms will love these colourful flower pots. They are easy to make, with a little bit
of assistance, your child can accomplish this without a problem.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Step one is for dads. Prepare the tin
cans by making holes in the bottom. This
can be done carefully with a large nail or
sharp screwdriver.You can get the tin cans
ready the day before.
3. The next step calls for creativity.
Allow your little one to paint the ice cream
sticks with the craft paints.You will need to
wait for them to dry before moving on to
the next stage.
5. Complete the look by tying a ribbon
around the pot. and your flower pot is
complete! All that's left is to surprise mom
on Mother's Day with your beautiful
creation.

2. Now it is your kiddies turn.Your child
can start by filling the cans. First place
some stones at the bottom, follow this
with some soil and finally the plant.
4. Help your child to apply the glue to
the painted ice cream sticks and to stick
them around the tin can. Use the rubber
bands to hold them in place while the glue
dries.
For more information on bringing Life
to your Garden, visit our website
www.lifeisagarden.co.za or join the
conversation on our Facebook page:
lifeisagardesa

Craftwise 21
 Happy Mother's Day!
Painted Porcelain by Cá Momberg from Glacermo cc

I love recycling, reusing and redesigning any object and turn it into DIY gifts that are
handmade with a Bohemian look. I am sure all of you have sets of plain porcelain mugs,
saucer, pitchers, egg holders, plates, etc., just waiting to be doodled on and transformed
into a work of art! In this project I will explain how to use porcelain pens. I love doodling
and these porcelain pens give me much more control than paints. No pattern included
for this project - create your own free-hand geometric and organic patterns.

22 Craftwise
REQUIREMENTS
Make sure that you prepare and clean the surface of the
purchased ceramic cup and saucer properly.

Ÿ You get different types of porcelain pens - I used Fire at Home

Brilliant Porcelain Pens. Black and other assorted colours
Ÿ Purchased white coffee mug and saucer
Ÿ Rubbing alcohol
Ÿ Cotton balls
Ÿ Plain white paper
Ÿ Pencil
Ÿ Wet wipes (Those you get at restaurants are perfect!)
Ÿ Needle or toothpick

All products are available from Glacermo cc. Contact Cá Momberg on 072 222 9500. Email:glacermo.sales@gmail.com or visit our website
www.glacermo.co.za or our Facebook page www.facebook.com/Glacermo

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Firstly always read the instructions
on your specific type of porcelain pens.
Instructions differ from supplier to supplier
especially the baking temperatures.
2. Wipe the glazed mug and saucer
clean using cotton balls dipped into
rubbing alcohol. Let them dry. This will
ensure that there is no dust or oil from
finger marks on your piece which could
cause the porcelain paint to pull away and
leave a bare spot.
3. Start by drawing a design either on
paper with a pencil or directly on the
glazed mug and saucer using any colour
porcelain pen. I like to draw directly on the
mug with a black pen.
5. When you are satisfied with how the
pen works, start drawing a design on the
mug and saucer.
NOTE:
Don't worry if you make a mistake on your
piece. To clean up the design or correct a
mistake you can scratch paint off with your
nail or a needle/toothpick. You can also
erase your design using wet wipes or
cotton balls dipped in rubbing alcohol.
TIP:
Start in the centre, turning the saucer as
you work to avoid smudging.
6. Leave the painted pieces to air dry
for 24 up to 72 hours. The longer you wait
before baking the better the adhesion of
the design to your pieces.
It states that these pieces are dishwasher
safe but there so many different settings
and types of dishwashers on the market
that I would recommend you hand wash
your finished item.
Not only are these DIY decorative cups
and saucers great for decorating your own
dinner table, they are perfect for giving as
Mother’s Day or birthday gifts. You could
fill the mugs with chocolates or sachets of
coffee. Wrap with cellophane and you have
a fantastic gift!

7. Place the finished pieces in a COLD

oven. (Placing the mug and saucer into a
cold oven allows the ceramic to warm with
the oven and helps prevent cracking).

8. Set the oven’s temperature to 160°C.

Turn on the oven. After reaching the
baking temperature of 160°C bake the
pieces for 90 minutes. After 90 minutes
turn off the oven.

4. Before you use the porcelain pen.
Give it a good shake and softly press the
nib down onto a piece of scrap paper to
get the ink flowing. If you press the pen to
hard a blob of paint will emerge and
smudge your piece.
It is important to allow the pieces to cool
inside the oven. (Again the gradual
temperature change helps prevent
cracking). When the oven is completely
cool you may remove your mug and
saucer.

Craftwise 23
 www.honeydewbears.co.za

www.beyondlaser.co.za
mark@beyondlaser.co.za
T 011 674 1645
M 082 920 9258

CNC Co2 Laser Cuttin Machines

Non metal cutting and engraving.
Such as wood, perspex, leather, paper,
cardboard etc. Suitable for arts & crafts,
Advertising, Leather apparel, Model and
Studio industry.

CNC Routers En ravin Machines

Cutting and engraving, prototyping
and carving in a wide variety of materials.
Suitable for manufacturing arts and
crafts, decorating and advertising.

Imperial Steam by Neil Bennett

24 Craftwise
Craftwise 25
 Primitive Folk Art Doll by Sharon Calverley

I have always been attracted to anything "Folksie" and

enjoy doing punchneedle art, making dolls - including
those weird little Primitive Folk Art Dolls. Although I have
heard some people comment that they are ugly, I like their
unique little faces and funny bodies! Primitive Folk Art style is
a very characteristic art form, usually having a rough, simple
look to them that suggests a lack of formal artistic training.

Photos courtesy Pinterest

A very good example of a muslin doll

This art form dates from early American period and

you will often find the following themes: angels,
crows, dolls and rag dolls, pineapples (which mean
welcome and good luck), saltbox houses, sheep and
willow trees. Early cloth doll bodies were
homemade with scraps of fabric from clothes that
could no longer be worn. Nothing was thrown out or
wasted back then! Most dolls were constructed with
a front and a back which included the legs - the arms
were usually attached separately. These dolls were
dressed depicting the locality of the maker (e.g.
Amish). Some dolls had features, some didn't, some
were embellished with embroidery and some not. It
all depended on what the doll maker had on hand. A mom and baby doll with facial features
Dolls would be stuffed with other materials i.e.
26 Craftwise
sawdust, straw, or cotton. When
looking at these dolls I like to think
of a mom who has gathered
together whatever she has on
hand to make a little child happy. I
don't think it mattered to the child
what the doll looked like - it was
theirs! Our doll is going to be
primitive but pretty - I don't like
making scary dolls for children!
REQUIREMENTS
Ÿ (2) 20 x 14" body fabric. Here you
can choose to use a knit or t-shirt fabric
if you want, then tea dye it or you can
use a brown mottled cotton fabric.
INSTRUCTIONS
The body:
Copy the body patterns onto copy
paper. Cut out and glue onto cardboard.
Cut out shapes along lines. If you want
shorter arms and legs, you can adjust
the pattern at this stage.
1. Fold the body fabric in half, right
sides together. Using the heat away
pen, trace the body parts onto the
fabric, leaving enough space between
each piece.
2. Reduce your stitch size to either a
1.8 or 2 and stitch around the drawn
shapes, leaving the openings indicated
on the pattern open. Remember to
double stitch the start and end of your
stitching line to prevent the seam
unravelling when you stuff the pieces.
3. Cut out with a seam allowance of
¼" (6 mm).
4. Press with an iron and you will see
the ink disappear. Clip around curves
where necessary and turn right side
out. Push out pieces neatly.
5. Stuff well. I like to use the back of
a paintbrush to stuff - then I can get
into all the funny little areas! When you
I used a ColourSpun hand dyed brown
fabric
Ÿ Off cuts of fabric for clothes and wool
for hair
Ÿ Heat erase pen
Ÿ Doll stuffing
Ÿ Thread to match fabric
Image of a very early muslin doll
Ÿ Red and dark brown/black
embroidery thread and matching
needle
Ÿ Medium length doll's needle
Ÿ Firm, strong thread
Ÿ Blusher
Ÿ Tiny buttons for eyes and dress
Ÿ Stiff cardboard for making templates
Ÿ Clear adhesive
Ÿ Paper scissors
Ÿ Sewing machine and usual sewing
requirements
8. Hand stitch in place. Pin arms to
shoulders. Stitch in place. She does look
a little bit like a gorilla, but don't worry -
she must!
stuff the legs, only stuff up to the
dotted line on the pattern. Stitch across
the dotted line then continue stuffing
up to the next dotted line. This will
allow the legs to bend and the doll to
"sit".
6. Turn over and hem the body and
top of arms and legs. The legs and arms
you can hand stitch closed - but not the
body. I like to do the face once the hair has
been attached. That way I get a better
7. Insert the legs into the body and idea of what she will eventually look
pin in place. Make sure that the feet are like. I might change the position of the
facing inwards. eyebrows - or make her smile.
Craftwise 27
 "Sanna"

28 Craftwise
differently.
The hair:
1. Tear thin strips from the off cut
fabrics. The more ragged they are - the
better.
2. Cut a 14 cm x 10 cm piece of firm
cardboard. Tightly wind the yarn around it.
3. Using a double strand of thread that
matches your yarn, stitch along the top
edge of the yarn, making sure you
incorporate each piece of yarn. Go over it
backwards and forwards until you have
them securely joined. Slide off the
cardboard.
Make another 2-3 rows of hair - depending
on how thick a head of hair you want.
4. Join the fabric strips into rows. Pin
the hair to the back of the head then
attach by hand. Continue adding the hair
and fabric strips until you are happy with
the final look.
When you are happy with the amount of
hair you can trim it to the look you like. I
trimmed the front section a little bit
shorter and opened up some of the strands
so that the hair looked fuller.
The face:
This is actually easier than you would think
and the heat away pen makes this process
a dream!
1. Using the face on the pattern as a
guide, sketch in the face with the heat
away pen. What is nice about this pen is
that if you don't like the look - go over it
with a warm iron and the ink disappears.
Simply redraw!
Now use the doll needle, and insert the
needle through the back of the head:
2. Using a single strand of red
embroidery thread, back stitch in the
mouth.
3. Outline stitch the nose with one
strand of red embroidery thread then
roughly fill the centre of the nose with 2
strands of thread.
4. Stitch the eyebrows and lashes. I
used a long stitch for the eyelashes with a
holding stitch in the middle. The eyebrows
were back stitched.
Go over the face with an iron to remove
any ink that is showing.
5. Attach the buttons using the doll
needle and 2 strands of black embroidery
thread. If you haven't got tiny buttons you
can French knot the eyes.
Remember - you musn't try to get
everything perfect with this type of doll.
The more imperfect the features are - the
more endearing the dolls are!
The dress:
If you want a slightly aged look to the
dress, age the fabric with tea or coffee. You
can also add lace to the skirt and sleeves if
you wish. I haven't because I wanted the
dress plain as it would have been in those
days.
1. Copy the bodice pattern onto copy
paper and glue onto cardboard. Cut out on
the lines.
2. Fold fabric right sides together and
draw around bodice shape. Cut out.
3. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch
from the neck down to the sleeve edge (on
both sides). Clip into the neck, close to the
start of your stitching. (See pattern).
4. Turn a small tiny hem on the end of
both sleeves.
5. From your fabric off cuts cut a 24" x
8" length for your skirt. Hem one of the
long sides - the other will be the top of
your skirt.
6. Gather the top of the skirt to fit the
bodice. Join the side seams. Pin the bodice
to the skirt (right sides together). Baste
then stitch in place.
7. Remove the basting stitches.
8. Press the seam allowance around the
neck to the back. Using 2 strands of
embroidery thread, work a running stitch
around the neck, starting and stopping in
the middle of the neck.
9. Attach a small button in the centre
of the bodice.
10. Squish her up and fit the dress. You
will have to wiggle and wrestle a bit to get
her in (a bit like putting on tight jeans!).
She will eventually see your point and put
Craftwise 29
 her dress on!

11. Pull up the embroidery thread around

Primitive Doll Templates

the neck and tie off.

12. I made a very rough ribbon from left over

fabric and tied it around her body.
all full size
A little bit of blusher on her cheeks and she is
ready to go out!

Sleeve opening
Cut 2 on fold
BODICE

ARM
Cut 4
Waist opening
Neck opening

30 Craftwise
x x

LEG
BODY Cut 4
Cut 2

leave open
Craftwise 31
 ADVERTORIAL
The top 5 ways to use an OLFA Rotary Cutter
What can you do with a rotary cutter—it's more like what can't you do with one?
SEWING
Back in 1979, the first rotary cutter was
introduced by OLFA, and it revolutionized
sewing, making fabric cutting safer,
quicker and more precise. Today, sewing
enthusiasts continue to depend upon the
rotary cutter because of its accuracy and
speed. It can handle any type of fabric
without causing shifting or distortion in
pattern lines, which can occur with
scissors. Plus, the rotary cutter rolls right
through slippery or stretchy fabrics like
silk, satin and knits more smoothly than
ordinary sewing shears, which can hack at
the material and leave behind jagged
edges. Medium-size versions, like the
28mm Straight Handle Rotary Cutter (RTY-
1/G), are perfect for making straight and
curved cuts for clothing. For cutting into
curves, tight corners and trimming seams,
the Original 18 mm Rotary Cutter (RTY-4)
works best. It's more manoeuvrable than
its larger cousin. Want to keep material
from ravelling before you get a chance to
sew it? Or finish non-woven fabric like
32 Craftwise
synthetic fleece to make a pretty lap
throw? Outfit your rotary cutter with the
OLFA 45 mm Pinking Rotary Blade (PIB45-
1) and cut away. The blade does the same
job as pinking shears in half the time. You
can even add seam allowances to patterns
that lack them. After pinning the pattern
on your fabric, place both on the OLFA
Self-Healing Rotary Mat (RM-MG). Align a
ruler so it is 50 mm beyond the pattern
line, run your rotary cutter along your
ruler—and voilà, you have a 50mm seam
allowance.
QUILTING
Nothing can turn out the numerous strips
and blocks needed for patchwork patterns
faster than a 45 mm rotary cutter! In a
couple of quick swipes, you can prepare
pieces for all kinds of patterns, including
nine-patch designs, log cabin quilts and
more. Smaller cutters, like the OLFA 18
mm Rotary Cutter (RTY-4) and 28 mm
Rotary Cutter (RTY-1/G), are sized right for
petite shapes like the kinds found in
appliqué designs. The pint-size blades on
these tools slide easily along tight corners
and sharp curves, allowing you to cleanly
cut shapes in no time flat.
Does your quilt pattern include circles or
half-circles? No problem! The OLFA Rotary
Circle Cutter (CMP-3) is up to the task. This
model features an 18 mm blade that will
smoothly cut clean circles with just the
twist of your wrist.
UPCYCLING CLOTHING
Repurposing old or worn clothing is all the
rage these days and a rotary cutter makes
modifying store-bought garments super
simple. If you want to transform a pair of
old jeans into a high-low skirt or a handy
tote bag, turn to the OLFA Original 60 mm
Rotary Cutter (RTY-3/G) to cut out the
shapes before sewing. Or use the OLFA
Deluxe 45mm Rotary Cutter (RTY-2/DX) to
cut across the chest, just below the
armholes, of a colourful knit T-shirt to
fashion an infinity scarf. Slice narrow strips
on one edge to create fringe, then add

knots or beads and you've created a one-
of-a-kind accessory. You can even re-size
a too-tight knit top by using the 45 mm
rotary cutter to slice up the sides, then
sewing a panel of lace or contrasting
material to the edges to create a more
comfortable and more stylish fit.
PAPER CRAFTS
Whether you're interested in
scrapbooking, card making, quilling or
any kind of craft involving paper, a rotary
cutter can be your best friend. Just as with
sewing and quilting, paper crafts call for
the kind of accurate, smooth cuts that a
rotary cutter delivers with ease. Turn to
OLFA's Deluxe 45mm Rotary Cutter (RTY-
2/DX) to create clean, straight lines or
swap in a decorative-edge blade like the
45mm Wave Rotary Blade (WAB45-1) for
eye-catching edges.
HOME DÉCOR
Need a valance for your breakfast nook
window? Considering reupholstering your
favourite armchair? Or are you thinking
about dressing up your dining room walls
with wallpaper? Keep your rotary cutter
at the ready it will come in handy for all
kinds of DIY decorations. The OLFA
Original 60 mm Rotary Cutter (RTY-3/G) is
ideal for use with heavy-duty upholstery
fabrics and can handle anywhere from six
to eight layers of material at once.
TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS
Apply even pressure as you roll your
rotary cutter through fabric, paper or
whatever you need to cut. This will ensure
a clean slice every time. Pair your rotary
cutter with a straight ruler or curved
cutting guide for the highest level of
accuracy. Keep your head directly over
your cutter as you roll it forward to clearly
see your cutting line.
When cutting several pieces of fabric at
one time, align the grains when layering
the fabric. This will ensure that your
pieces are identical and will prevent strips
or pieces from puckering when they are
sewn together since the grains will all be
going in the same direction.
Visit the OLFA web site and YouTube
channel, and browse through the many
videos available: from changing the blade
on a rotary cutter, to proper use and care
instructions and finding the right cutter for
you.
Craftwise 33
 Print a silk scarf
by Melanie Brummer

with a pink art deco design

REQUIREMENTS
Ÿ Habotai silk Ÿ Hand carved
scarf lino stamp
Ÿ Aquatex Ÿ Towel
fabric paint Ÿ Blanket
in rave pink
Ÿ Pallet knife
Ÿ Sponge
roller
Ÿ Rubber roller
Ÿ Plastic
bucket lid
Ÿ Newspaper
Ÿ Spray bottle

34 Craftwise
In recent articles I have shown you how to carve your own lino stamps and now I am going
to show you how best to print them.
INSTRUCTIONS
Note about the paint
Many people try to print their fabrics
using oil based fine art paints for lino
printing. I have used acrylic screen
printing ink or fabric paint for many
years because it dries much quicker.
Aquatex fabric paint is available in
luminous colours and I used the rave
pink for this project. This means that
the pattern on this scarf will glow
under UV light. These rave colours
are UV active if applied to a light
coloured surface.
This is the method I used...
First I line the table with my old
printing blanket. It not only catches
spills and messes, it also creates a
padded surface for printing. The soft
padding allows some give so that all
of the surfaces of the stamp make
contact with the fabric so that the
paint is properly transferred. It you
try to print on a rigid surface, you will
struggle to get the prints to transfer
properly.
I use the pallet knife to scoop paint
onto the plastic lid and I coat the
sponge roller with an even coating
of paint. I use the spray bottle with
water in to keep the paint on the
paint tray moist. If you are printing in
hot dry weather, the spray bottle is a
life saver. A gentle spritz of water will
prevent the acrylic paint from drying
out.
For best results, iron the fabric
before you start to remove any
creases. For this project I did not iron
out the creases, so that I can show
you what happens when you don't.
Sometimes a gentle crease like this
one might cause a line across the
print. See Photo 1.
I placed the stamp carefully, ink side
down, onto the corner of the
vintage silk, and ran the rubber roller
over the back of the stamp to apply
the pressure that would transfer the
paint from stamp to cloth.
Afterwards, I peeled it carefully
away to reveal the first print.
I repeated the process to cover the
fabric, row by row. Photo 2.
In between prints I place the stamp
on newspaper when inking up. I use
a fresh page every time so that the
back of the stamp stays clean as I
work. If I place the stamp on the
same spot every time to ink up, the
whole stamp eventually becomes
messy to work with. By inking up on
a fresh surface every time, I keep
the back of the stamp clean, as well
as the fabric that I am printing on
because I have more control over
the process.
One of the biggest challenges of a
repeat print like this is lining up the
prints. I do not back my lino stamps
with wood so that I can see the
edge of the stamp. I find it easier for
registration if I do not back the
stamps in the traditional way.
Photo 3 is an example of what
happens when the stamps are not
properly aligned.
Once I finished printing the fabric, I
ironed the silk scarf at 140 degrees
Celsius for six minutes, as
recommended by the supplier, so
that the print is wash fast.
When I have finished, I scrape the
ink that is trapped in the sponge
roller back into the bottle. You will
be amazed at how much paint you
can save this way. Once the scarf is
ironed and draped, you do not
notice the imperfections in the prints
at all.
If you would like to know more of my
secrets for creating interlinking
stamps for printing on cloth, send
me an email with the words… “I
want to learn the secrets of tiled
prints” in the tagline and I will send
you a complimentary eBook that
shares detailed step-by-step tutorials
with pictures.
info@dyeandprints.co.za
Craftwise 35
Image courtesy of Pinterest

How to up-cycle
the fabrics in your stash by Melanie Brummer

O ver the years I inherited fabrics

from a number of sources. My
Mom, my friends, thrift stores, my
own projects...the remnants piled up. Then
in 2016 I was gifted even more by my
I find stripping the item down into its most
useful pieces first and then seeing what is
left is a way to work. I sort all of the pieces
together that will make suitable handles
and straps for bags so that they are easy to
https//www/facebook.com/groups/74977031
1856711.

I find the most important thing I can do is to

partner, at a loss what to do with his Mum's
sentimental fibres. It was time to do
something about it. The cloth was piling up
and I did not even realize it.
find when I need them.
Often items need to be washed and aired
before I can begin to work with them.
sew a bit every day. Making time to sew
every night before bed time has been
therapeutic and a huge stash buster. It is
amazing how many small projects you can
get done in this way!

Over the past year I have explored a number
of new ways to re-think old cloth. It is a
fascinating process. The textiles in the
collection span back as far as a hundred
years. Sentimental doilies and
handkerchiefs handed down and down
again. Each piece required a different
approach.
Some pieces are easy to dis-assemble and
turn into functional cloth for other projects.
Others are not.
The reason up-cycling and mending of cloth
went out of fashion is because it became
cheaper to buy new than to spend precious
time remaking old so that it does not look
like it belongs in the garbage.
The pieces of cloth that I end up with are Below are some examples of upcycled
odd sizes and shapes, so I work with each fabrics that I stamped with my hand carved
piece as an individual opportunity to create lino stamps. So go ahead - upcycle, recycle
something magical. I toss away any hope of and re-use!
mass producing anything with any accuracy.
While the size and shape are challenges,
some of the colours and prints are too.
Some fabrics are faded or stained beyond
practical use.
I often add a coat of dye to fabrics like these
to hide the splotches and make them part of
a bigger pattern.
I have learned that lino block prints are a
wonderful way of re-inventing prints and
colours that do not work for me.

It takes time and some thought and
planning to figure out what to do with all of
the odd textile items. Taking the old
garments apart can take as much time or
more than making the new item, which can
be frustrating for beginners.
I like to work on small projects that I can
finish quickly, and that I can quickly forget
lest I mess it up. If you are looking for more
ideas for up-cycling your fabrics, visit this
link to view inspiring projects in a supportive
community:

36 Craftwise
Wish you could carry your whole library with you?

You can!

www.zinio.com/craftwise OR www.magzter.com/p/Craftwise
 Leather Stationery Folder
by Geert Schuiling for Woodheads

Keep all your stationery items together and ready to travel - a useful
gift for traveling moms and dads!
38 Craftwise
REQUIREMENTS

Ÿ Leather (refer to template for sizes)

Ÿ Two D-rings
Ÿ Revolving punch
Ÿ Steel ruler
Ÿ Craft knife
Ÿ Cutting mat
Ÿ Pencil or marking pen
Ÿ Needles
Ÿ Thread
Ÿ Matches or lighter

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Print the pattern out to scale and
paste onto firm cardboard. Cut out along
the solid lines and punch the holes to
prepare for marking the leather. Place the
cut out pattern onto the leather and use a
marking pen or pencil to trace the
perimeter lines and holes.
4. Stitch all inner pouches onto the
body by only stitching the inner lines
(marked in pattern) using a saddle
stitching technique. Note: the top hole
marked with an X on the pattern will
remain open to end off with a double loop
stitch.

2. Cut out the leather using your knife

and steel ruler then punch the holes out
with the revolving punch plier.

Scale: 1:2
Closing Strap 1000 x 15mm
5. Decide on the type of stitching you
wish to use around the edge (cross whip or
saddle stitch), then sew right around the
outside edge. End off by knotting and
burning the wax thread ends.

3. Use the two D- rings and stitch with

a double cross stitch at the one end of the
strap then stitch the other end onto the
body.

6. Roll it up, fasten the strap around it

and then gift wrap it for the lucky Mom or
Dad!

Craftwise 39
 leave hole open for double stitch
Body x1
430 x 255mm
Scale: 1:2 Pocket x1 Pocket x1 Pocket x1
135 x 121mm 133 x 121mm 135 x 121mm
TEMPLATES

Craftwise
40
 Pocket x1 Pocket x1
135 x 65mm 133 x 65mm

Pocket x1
135 x 65mm

Craftwise 41
 REQUIREMENTS
Ÿ Wood base 36 cm x 36 cm canvas
Ÿ Ceramic tiles 10 mm x 10 mm: 25 red, 5 purple, 36 blue, 25
dark green, 30 grey, 50 white, 36 cobalt blue, 36 light blue,
5 orange, 5 brown
Ÿ Ceramic imprint tiles: 1 red heart, 2 pink spots, 1 duck egg
curl, 2 white flower with green grass, 3 green leaf imprint, 1
duck egg flower pattern, 1 purple flower pattern
Ÿ Inserts: 3 small doves, ½ sun, 5 super small white happy
flowers, 1 windmill, 1 black stem, 4 white stems, 4 green
stems, 1 door, 4 med windows blue, 1 hen, 3 chicks, 2
red magnolias, 1 dog, 1 front facing sheep, 7 small
yellow daisies, 2 lilly happy leaves

42 Craftwise

This is scene two of a three-part landscape depicting life in the Karoo. Scene 1 entitled "Starry Starry Night"
was featured in a previous issue of Craftwise. The third scene will be featured later in 2018.
INSTRUCTIONS
TO START
1. Take a pencil and draw a line around the
inside edge of the frame onto the board.
This helps as a guideline when you remove
it from the frame to work on and stops you
going to the edge of the board. This step is
very important as it helps when you put
your picture back into the frame.
2. Trace the pattern onto the wood base.
TILE LAYOUT
1. Create scene by using the tiles and
cutting them if necessary for the tile effect.
I have cut the white ones in half to create
the bricks.
2. I have created flow lines to give
movement to the sky and around the
windmill. The imprint tiles give the effect
of different ploughed farm lands. The
stems were cut for the fence and stalks.
3. When doing the cactus I drew the
shape needed behind the tile and nibbled
the round edge. The leftover bits were
inserted between the fence poles.
4. When you have filled all the space
leave the project to dry overnight before
grouting.
by Ursula Janke of The Clay Club
GROUTING
Empty most of the bag of grout into a
container and slowly add water, stirring all
the while until you have the consistency of
toothpaste or cake batter.
A good indication of the right consistency
is when you stop stirring: if the mixture
retains peaks and valleys – add more
water. If it immediately settles – add more
grout. The right balance is if the grout
sluggishly settles.
Now liberally smear the grout over the
surface of the tiles, ensuring that you force
grout between all the tiles and those on
the edge of the mosaic. Take a little grout
with your finger and rub between the tiles
of the border and the base all around the
edge to ensure that you have filled the
little gaps.
Using a spatula, remove as much of the
excess grout as possible. Sprinkle a little
dry grout over the entire mosaic and leave
to dry for a few minutes. Using old
scrunched up newspaper in a circular
motion, remove all the extra grout. If you
find a pothole or crater, rub a little grout
into the gap until it is filled.
Leave the project to dry for half an hour
and remove any remaining grout with your
fingernail or damp cloth.
Put the picture back into its frame.
Craftwise 43
 PATTERN

Enlarge to 36 x 36 cm

44 Craftwise
 Emoji
Emoji
Fridge Magnets

This is a very easy needle felting project for

beginners & kids. Due to the sharpness of the
felting needles, supervision is recommended
for all children.

by Charlize Stone

REQUIREMENTS
Ÿ Yellow, brown, orange, blue and white merino roving
Ÿ Felting needle
Ÿ Felting sponge

INSTRUCTIONS
Take approximately 2 g of yellow roving for Glue a magnet to the back of your Emoji,
each Emoji. Needle felt it into the shape of let it dry and then you're done!
a ball and flatten the front and back.
How to mix 2 colors:
Put the colors you want to mix together
and pull them apart lengthwise - repeat a
few times. Then pull them apart sideways
and repeat until the 2 colors are mixed to
your liking.

Blushing Emoji:
Use brown for the mouth and eyes.
Mix a tiny amount of orange and yellow
and add it to the cheek area to make him
blush.
Laughing Emoji:
Use brown roving to make the eyes,
eyebrows and mouth.
Mix a small amount of orange and brown
for the inside of the mouth and add white
for the teeth. Warning: Making Emoji fridge magnets is
Use blue to make 2 small teardrops, add a addictive and with all the different Emoji's
little white to each teardrop and felt them out there, you might need to consider buying
onto the face. another fridge!!

Craftwise 45
 MY DOLL'S HOUSE JOURNEY
We are getting towards the end of this series now as we
complete one of the most important rooms in a colonial-era
house: the nursery. Here the noisy babies and younger children
could sleep, play and be fed by their nanny so that they did not
disturb the peaceful and dignified atmosphere which
permeated the rest of the house.
I used furniture edging on the floor and then placed a piece of
upholstery fabric on top of it. I love butterflies so I have used
them as the main decor on the walls.
The toy box is made from blocks of wood with beads for feet
and a bit of planking across the back.
The doors of the room are rectangles of supawood with panels
pasted on top and painted.
The toy basket is a shot glass filled with colourful wooden
beads.
46 Craftwise
The shelves in the recess are made with ice cream sticks which
I painted white and filled with material scraps. The teddy
standing next to the shelves is one of the smallest I ever made.
The toys come from my friend Beryl.
The walls are covered with fabric and as with all the other
rooms, I used torchan lace to create the mouldings on the
ceiling.
The light shade is covered in butterflies.
My darling son bought me a whole box full of dolls so the dolls
house now has a family - thank you Gavin!
Till next time...
Colleen
Room #8 : The Nursery by Colleen Amos

The lampshade has small butterflies glued The toy box made from blocks of wood. The buttercup yellow door made from
to it. pieces of supawood.

The shelves made from ice cream sticks. The fully occupied nursery with the nanny taking care of the kiddies!
(Essential raw materials used throughout
the house!)

Craftwise 47
 Peyote Twist Necklaces

by Lizelle Hards

by Christina Wynbergen

Bead artists Christina Wynbergen and Lizelle Hards have both used a
Peyote Twist technique to make these two stunning beaded necklaces but
with subtle variations. Lizelle's on the left creates a snakeskin pattern, while
if you look carefully at Christina's on the right you will see a daisy pattern.

48 Craftwise
 Bead weaving has a history dating back millennia to a time when shells and animal bones
were used as beads in necklaces. Every possible combination of different loom and off-
loom stitches and techniques has been used and published many times. However, Gerlinde
Lenz from Germany managed to create a revolutionary a new technique. While doing bead
crochet, she wondered whether she could create an item that looked like a rope with
diagonal peyote. Thus a new technique that took the beading world by storm was born -
Peyote with a Twist – not crochet (also called Peytwist or PWAT). This strong, versatile bead
weaving stitch is an off-loom technique that looks just like bead crochet. Although this is an
advanced beading stitch that requires knowledge of peyote stitch and the reading of
peyote charts, the design possibilities are endless!

REQUIREMENTS: Lizelle's Snakeskin Necklace (left)

Bead Legend
Chart #: A Chart #: B Chart #: C
8-1052 8-457L 8-401F
Galvanised Gold Metallic Light Bronze Opaque Matt Black

Ÿ Miyuki Rocaille seed beads 8° (three contrasting colours)

Ÿ 1 x big eye needle
Ÿ Fireline
Ÿ 1 x clasp of your choice
Ÿ Clear glue for attaching clasps (both necklaces)
INSTRUCTIONS: Lizelle's Snakeskin Necklace
Start with 10 beads, from the upper right.
Join after completing row 11, so that the join
/ closure bead becomes the first bead of row
12. Repeat row 12-19 as many times as
needed to obtain the length of the rope
required.
Row 1&2: (L) (1)A, (3)C, (2)A, (1)B, (3)A.
Row 3: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (1)A, (1)C, (1)A.
Row 4: (L) (3)A, (2)B.
Row 5: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (2)A, (1)C.
Row 6: (L) (1)A, (1)C, (1)A, (2)B.
Row 7: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (1)A, (2)C.
Row 8: (L) (1)A, (1)C, (2)A, (1)B.
Row 9: (R) (3)A, (2)C.
Crystal Beads, Czech Beads
SuperDuo, MiniDuo
Brick & Tile Beads
Silky Beads, Seed Beads
Miyuki Beads, Beading Kits
String Materials
Row 10: (L) (1)A, (1)C, (1)A, (1)B, (1)A. Beading Tools
Row 11: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (1)A, (1)C, (1)A. www.beadsdirect.co.za
Row 12: (L) (2)A, (2)B.
Row 13: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (2)A, (1)C. Unit C2, Prospect Close,
Row 14: (L) (1)C, (1)A, (2)B. 311 Regency Drive, Route 21,
Row 15: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (1)A, (2)C. Irene, Pretoria
Row 16: (L) (1)C, (2)A, (1)B. Tel: (021) 345 5466
Row 17: (R) (3)A, (2)C.
Row 18: (L) (1)C, (1)A, (1)B, (1)A.
Row 19: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (1)A, (1)C, (1)A.
Diagram and photo examples are overleaf.

Craftwise 49
 Row 1-11 completed should
look like this:
Join by taking the needle through the join
bead (which is the last bead of row 1). See
next two photos.
Continue the rest of row 12 in even count
peyote stitch. Continue with the pattern,
using the first bead of the seam column as the
first bead of alternative rows.
50 Craftwise
A - Join Bead
Start here
Insertion point
Ending the rope (filling the valleys):
Use decreasing peyote stitch to end the rope.
Decrease each row by one bead, while still
following the pattern, until the last row
consists of only one bead. Once completed go
through the last row again, and weave your
thread into the rope, securing the thread as
you go along. Repeat the process with the
other end of the rope and finish your piece by
attaching a clasp / bead caps.
Finishing off:

REQUIREMENTS: Christina's Secret Daisy Necklace

Ÿ Czech seed beads 8° (two contrasting colours) Bead Legend
Ÿ Fireline Chart #: A Chart #: B
Ÿ 1 x #10 beading needle 8-1052 8-457L
Ÿ 2 x eye pins White Pearl Ceylon Opaque Pale Pink Lustre
Ÿ 2 x bead caps
Ÿ 1 x clasp of your choice

Start with 10 beads, from the upper right. Join after completing row
A - Join Bead
11, so that the join / closure bead becomes the first bead of row 12.
This is a single-seam pattern. Repeat row 12 and 13 from Part A until
the necklace is about one third of the required length (±70 rows). Start here
Continue the pattern using Part B for the next one third of the
necklace and then use Part C to complete the last third.

Part A: Row 19: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.

Row 1&2: (L) (2)A, (6)B, (2)A. Row 20: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 3: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A. Row 21: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 4: (L) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A. Row 22: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 5: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 6: (L) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 7: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 8: (L) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Insertion point

Row 9: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.

Row 10: (L) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 11: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 12: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 13: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 14: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 15: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 16: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 17: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 18: (L) (3)B, (1)A.

Craftwise 51
 Part B Diagram
Part B: Row 24: (L) (1)B, (1)A, (1)B, (1)A.
Row 1&2: (L) (1)A, (6)B, (2)A. Row 25: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (3)A.
Row 3: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (1)A, (1)B, (1)A. Row 26: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 4: (L) (1)B, (3)A. Row 27: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (3)A.
Row 5: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A. Row 28: (L) (1)B, (1)A, (1)B, (1)A.
Row 6: (L) (1)B, (3)A.
Row 7: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (1)A, (1)B, (1)A.
Row 8: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 9: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 10: (L) (1)B, (1)A, (1)B, (1)A.
Row 11: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (3)A.
Row 12: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 13: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (3)A.
Row 14: (L) (1)B, (1)A, (1)B, (1)A.
Row 15: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 16: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 17: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (1)A, (1)B, (1)A.
Row 18: (L) (1)B, (3)A.
Row 19: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 20: (L) (1)B, (3)A.
Row 21: (R) (1)A, (1)B, (1)A, (1)B, (1)A.
Row 22: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 23: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.

Part C Diagram
Part C Graphic
Row 1&2: (L) (1)A, (6)B, (2)A.
Row 3: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 4: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 5: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 6: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 7: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 8: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 9: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 10: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 11: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 12: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 13: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 14: (L) (3)B, (1)A.
Row 15: (R) (1)A, (3)B, (1)A.
Row 16: (L) (3)B, (1)A.

To end off:
Sew away all loose ends.
Sew the eye pins securely to the ends of your work. All items are available from Beads Direct, 012 345 5466
Add the bead caps, cut the pins shorter and form a loop. or email info@beadsdirect.co.za.
Add the clasp. Beads Direct also sell on mail order.

52 Craftwise
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 What to do
in (and out of)
the garden in May
T he mild month of May is a perfect time
to add new plants to your garden. Plant
some winter and spring beauties on
Workers' Day (you will be at home on the
public holiday on 1 May!) and see how smart
plants can 'work' for you in the seasons to
come…
Trending – 'Colour blocking'
Colour blocking is a fashion trend which
originated from the artwork of Dutch
painter, Piet Mondriaan. He used clean, and
simple lines, and solid colours opposing
each other on the colour wheel. This trend
works very well in the garden too, if you
plant bold patches of opposing, but
complementary colour combinations. An
example: blue delphiniums paired with
bright orange calendulas. You can even add
a little grey in there by using bold swathes of
silvery grey sedge grass (Festuca). Midnight
blue and bright yellow is another good
combination and you can do this by planting
a mass of dark blue pansies set off by bright
yellow violas. If you're not sure about this
concept, visit a top GCA garden centre's
54 Craftwise
seedling tables and flowering perennial
displays (many indigenous daisies, diascias
and nemesias are flowering now), where
you will clearly see which colours go
together well. Colour blocking doesn't stop
with plants – you can paint a background
wall in a contrasting, but complementing
colour, to the plants near it.
Spoil mom!
Mother's Day is on Sunday 13th May. As
moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) are always
available in bloom and stay that way for
months on end, why not spoil your mom or
grandma with a beautiful specimen to keep
her company with its floral elegance
throughout winter? You will find the widest
variety and healthiest specimens at your
nearest GCA garden centre. They will also
have smart cover pots in stock to display it
in.
Smart planting
Heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica) is
the heavenliest, 'fake bamboo' available! In
large pots, they mean good luck at your
by Life is a Garden
front door and they are the 'zen' in Zen
gardens. You can plant them in a row in the
narrow space, with its changing sun and
shade patterns between the house and a
boundary wall. They will soon supply a lacy
look with their rust-tinted leaves in the cold
months, small white flowers in spring, and
post box red berries in autumn. They will
grow heavenwards with their slender and
tall branches, giving you privacy, while their
roots are not dangerous.
Camellia (Camellia japonica) – large
evergreen shrub or small tree with glossy,
dark green leaves. Suitable for shade or sun
(not baking hot!). Very cold and frost hardy,
and truly not a water guzzler when
established. They produce masses of the
most beautiful and delicate flowers from
late winter until spring. Many hybrids with
different flower shapes are available in an
array of colours from pure white, to all
shades of pink and red.
Pork bush (Portulacaria afra) - not really
known as a low hedge plant but one of the
best indigenous plants to put to this use, as it
does not mind being pruned frequently and
can do the job of being a barrier perfectly in a
dry garden. It is extremely drought resistant
and fast-growing. Once established, it will
basically look after itself.

New Zealand Flax (Phormium) with their

long, leathery, sword-shaped leaves that are
held in fans emerging from fleshy roots,
always make a bold statement in the garden
and there are many hybrids in a wide array of
foliage colours to choose from. They thrive in
full sun or dappled shade and can withstand a
fair amount of winter cold, although some
hybrids can be damaged by frost. A little
protection with frost cover can overcome
Camellia
this. GCA garden centres report that the
following two hybrids are amongst their top
sellers:
- Tenax 'Rubra' – a well-known, cold-hardy
cultivar with a graceful, arching habit with a
cascade of narrow, deeply bronzed foliage.
- 'Fire Chief' – Upright growth habit with
rich crimson red leaves with darker red
margins. Full sun intensifies the foliage
colours.

Jade plant (Crassula ovata 'Red Edge') – the

jade plant is probably the most widely grown
succulent in gardens as well as containers.
Spectacular forms are found in nature and
selected for the nursery trade such as 'Red
Edge' with bright green fleshy leaves with red
margins. This fast-growing succulent
produces a mass of star shaped flowers in
winter and is a very attractive rockery or
accent plant for dry gardens. Very cold and Jade Plant
drought resistant.

Naturalising spring bulbs

To create a most spectacular spring meadow
and to enjoy the beauty of a wider range of
veld flowers every year, look out for the
following perennial bulbous plants:

Blue Stars (Aristea major) – handsome

structural plant with blue flowers
Flames (Chasmanthe floribunda) – perfect for
mass planting, orange flowers
Weeping Anthericum (Chlorophytum
saundersiae) – grass-like with masses of
starry white flowers for sun or light shade
Fortnight Lily (Dietes bicolor) – sun or light
shade, lots of yellow flowers with brown eye
Red-hot Poker (Kniphofia praecox) – tall,
striking spikes of yellow/orange flowers
Sweet garlic (Tulbaghia fragrans) – sweetly Red Hot Pokers
scented, long lasting mauve flowers

Craftwise 55
 Bush Lily (Veltheimia bracteata) –
attractive, glossy green foliage and long Arum Lilies
spikes of dusky pink flowers for light shade
Watsonia borbonica 'Pink' – very decorative
spikes and excellent cut flower
White Arum Lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica)
– creamy white spathes and large showy
leaves for moist, shady areas

Bedding bestie
Our bedding bestie for May is stocks
(Matthiola incana) - one of the most
romantic winter and spring flowering
annuals to plant. Foliage is soft and velvety
greyish green, and the densely packed
flower spikes are extremely fragrant
(available in shades of dark purple, rose,
cream, pink, and white). There are some
secrets to growing them successfully:
- Never plant them in a bed where they
have previously grown
- Prepare the soil with ample compost,
general fertiliser like 2:3:2, and a light
dusting of lime
- Space the seedlings about 35cm apart
- Do not handle them by touching their
stems, rather handle them by the leaves.
Keep well-watered, but don't overdo it.

Enjoy a good cut flower!

Rose care for May

- Keep on spraying against fungal
infections like black spot, mildews and rust
which are much more active in cooler
weather.
- Aphids can still be problematic and Stocks
more difficult to destroy in summer,
seemingly due to higher sugar levels in the
plant cells, which attracts them. Use
systemic insecticides as sprays or soil
drench.

Pruning to do
Yellow Aphids
- Prune plectranthus species and varieties
as soon as they have stopped their autumn-
flowering.
- It is best to wait for the first frost to
arrive and then cut off the dead frosted top
growth of dahlias.
- Chop chrysanthemums down to
encourage bushy growth.
- Cut back Japanese anemones,
Michaelmas daisies and daisy bushes.

Pest watch
Conifer aphids which cannot be seen by the
naked eye, become active from May to
September. Damage done like yellowing

56 Craftwise
foliage, shoot dieback and the eventual
demise of the whole plant, can only be seen
after the end of winter. Preventative
treatment is therefore recommended from
May to September, by applying systemic
granular or liquid insecticide every two
weeks. Drench the soil if a liquid formulation
is used, or spread granular insecticide over
the rooting zone into the soil, and water in
well afterwards.
Inland gardening
(Gauteng, Free State, North West,
Mpumalanga and Limpopo)
- Water newly planted bulbs deeply every
four days - they should never dry out
completely. Those in pots will need more
Frost netting between
rows of veggies
regular watering. You can still plant all
spring-flowering bulbs like daffodils,
ranunculus, and more.
- Also plant a few hyacinth bulbs for
indoor aroma and colour. Plant the bulbs in
moist, quality potting soil in a shallow bowl
and place in a dark cupboard until the flower
spikes break ground.
- Sow some wild grass seed somewhere
in your garden to encourage birds in winter.
These seed mixes are available in seed
packets at most outlets selling flower and
vegetable seed.
- Hellebores, those old stalwarts in cold
gardens, will be sprouting new foliage so
you can remove the old, tatty leaves and
give them a fresh layer of compost. They will
soon be in flower.
- Plant the seeds of sugar snap peas in a
circle to grow them up a cane tepee. Also
plant a patch of peppery edibles by
alternating rows of tatsoi, rocket, radish and
pak choi.
- Cut down the last tomatoes, bring the
unripe fruit indoors and place with a banana
to ripen fully.
- Start covering plants against frost at
night.
- Plant more seedlings of: Snapdragons,
Bellis perennis, lobelias, primulas, phlox,
Iceland poppies and petunias.
- Mow lawns with the blades set high and
water when dry. You can still do a last over-
seeding with some seed types. Visit your
local GCA to see which one will be the best
for you.
Coastal gardening
(Western Cape, Northern Cape, Eastern
Cape, and KwaZulu-Natal)
- Now is a good time to lay instant lawn
sods or to over-seed damaged areas.
- If your plants are not doing well it is
probably due to poor soil and the aftermath
of drought. Invest in a bulk load of compost
to add to all planting areas. Do not dig it in,
just spread it out on the surface to be gently
worked in by micro-organisms. Keep thick
layers of compost away from the main
stems of plants, as it can cause rotting.
- Sprouting is a fast and fun way to grow
healthy edibles on a window sill. Sprout
some mung beans, chickpeas, lentils and
Alfalfa to use in salads and stir fries.
- For micro eating, sow a mix of salad
greens, radishes, baby spinach and beets
thickly in a window box. Snip off the
germinating young stems and leaves to use
on sandwiches, or in your daily smoothie.
- Fill up window boxes and hanging
baskets to get them ready for spring. Use
perennials like gazanias, geraniums,
diascias and osteospermums. Add pansies,
violas and primulas in there too.
For more information on
bringing Life to your Garden,
visit our website
www.lifeisagarden.co.za or
join the conversation on our
Facebook page:
www.facebook.com/lifeisag
ardensa.
Craftwise 57
 Vital Veggie for May:
Sexy Spinach

by Life is a Garden

Spinach is not only full of flavour, but full of goodness too! It's high in iron, Vitamin A, Vitamin C and is low in calories - so good for
the waistline too! What most of us eat as spinach is usually Swiss chard because it is so much more available, being easier to grow,
heat tolerant and more productive.

For more information on bringing Life to your Garden, visit our website www.lifeisagarden.co.za or join the conversation on
our Facebook page: www.facebook.com/lifeisagardensa.

58 Craftwise
The Swiss chard varieties are 'Fordhook
Giant' which has dark green leaves and
broad, white midribs, 'Lucullus' which has
long, light green leaves, and 'Bright Lights'
which has red, yellow or orange midribs
and dark green leaves. (Image below).
Growing
Swiss chard and spinach are among the
easiest vegetables to grow. They
germinate easily, don't take up much
space and are easy to harvest. But, they
are gross feeders and if you want to
harvest on a continual basis regular
feeding is the secret for success.
• Prepare and enrich the soil before
planting with generous amounts of
organics as well as bonemeal for root
development.
• Both vegetables can be sown in situ.
Swiss chard can also be sown in seed trays
as it transplants better than spinach.
• Keep the soil moist during
germination – about five days.
• Seedlings should be spaced, or
thinned out, to about 20cm apart.
• Feed with a liquid fertiliser about
two weeks after germination and once a
month after that, or more frequently if you
are harvesting regularly.
• Succession planting is
recommended (this means planting
another crop in the same space once the
first crop has been harvested).
Harvesting
One of the most compelling reasons for
growing your own spinach is that it wilts so
quickly and shop bought produce cannot
match the quality of freshly picked leaves.
Leaves should be ready for picking about 8
weeks after sowing. They can be cut or
twisted off at the base of the plant.
When the growth is no longer vigorous
and the leaves start to flop, the picking
season is over and the plants should be
dug out and put on the compost heap.
Cooking secrets
• Always cook spinach with the lid off.
By keeping the lid on you trap the sulfur
that is released with cooking and that is
the reason for the bad smell.
• Don't overcook spinach; just bring it
to wilting point. It looks fresher and tastes
better if it is still bright green. It is also
healthier, in spite of the belief that it needs
to be cooked to release iron and other
nutrients.
• Boil spinach in very salty water (like
sea water) to preserve its flavour.
• The bitterness comes from the white
rib. Double fold the leaf and cut out the
white rib completely before cooking. The
white rib can be added to soups and stews
or put on the compost heap.
• The nicest way to prepare spinach is
to wilt it in a little olive oil over a medium
heat. Add salt and pepper and a little
lemon juice.
• Puree spinach and use it as a base
for green sauces. It can also be used to
bulk up a coriander or basil pesto.
• Bright Lights' stems add colour and
crunch to salads, or use as Swiss Chard,
but don't cook too long or it will lose its
vibrant red colour.
Chard and brinjal salad
1 bunch Swiss chard, chopped roughly
1 brinjal, halved and sliced
1 packet bacon, chopped
1 round feta cheese
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
Coat the brinjal slices in olive oil. Add a
splash of olive oil to a pan and cook the
bacon until crispy. Add the brinjals and
cook until softened. Add the spinach and
wilt. Season with salt and pepper. Place on
a serving dish and sprinkle with feta to
serve.
Craftwise 59
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60 Craftwise
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Craftwise 61
 Angel in Red

62 Craftwise
 REQUIREMENTS
• 12 x 18 canvas (ArtCanvasFactory.com) • Americana metallics in:
Glorious gold
• Americana acrylic paint in: Neon fiery red
Prussian blue
Natural buff • Americana word stencil as well as the
Mocha wing stencil by Ronel Fleming Swart
Buttermilk • Assorted paintbrushes email: ronelsart@gmail.com
Cranberry wine • 4th Dimension scrolls
Red alert • Old music sheets and glue
Dioxazine purple
Brilliant purple
Burnt orange
Ocean blue I wish to thank ArtCanvasFactory.com for supplying me with their great new canvases
White and I can really recommend them to you. I also wish to thank all our readers who came
Yellow ochre to greet me at the recent HobbyX when I was there for 4 days at the Faber-Castell stand.
Burnt umber

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Sketch in your angel or trace the
pattern provided onto your canvas. You can
use Saral transfer paper or dressmakers'
carbon to do this. Alternately you can use a
window or lightbox.
3. I used Dioxazine purple with my flesh
colours as a shadow for her face. Outline
the facial features with burnt umber then
highlight with natural buff.
4. Paint in the eyes. Add a light dot.
For her lips I used a very natural colour.You
can make them darker if you wish.
7. Paint in her hair then highlight it with
orange and yellow.
You can add some flowers to her hair if you
wish.
8. Tear up some paper and glue to
foreground. I attached a pretty scroll fitting
to the top of the canvas for hanging.

2. Paint the background with Prussian
blue then underpaint the dress with yellow.
Always, always underpaint red with yellow.
5. I just loved painting this dress. The
brighter, the better although white or cream
would just have been just as pretty. Again, it
is down to personal taste. Here I used warm
colours like purple, gold and fiery red neon
to brighten up the red. Dab in some flowers
and slightly darker areas around the
neckline and sleeves.

6. Stencil in the wings with a mix of

yellow ochre and buttermilk. Try not to
make it too bright.

Craftwise 63
 Enlarge to fit your canvas

64 Craftwise
Pewter Inspirati n
1. Hand turned bowl with pewter protea. Bowl is made from wild olive wood.
artist: Sandy Griffiths

2. Steam punk protea. Canvas is covered with copper leaf and aged with paint. Protea design by Monique Day-Wilde.
3. Milk jug. Two photographs, showing front and side of jug. Pewter bird and flower completed with blue glass stain. The bottom of the jug is
done with copper leaf.
4. Sliding doors. Mixed media using cardboard covered with gold leaf and aged with metallic green paint, pewter and acrylic paint.
5. Hibernation. Mixed media using acrylic paint, pewter and gold leaf.

1 5

3
4

Craftwise 65
 Find Your Happy, Go Camping!
S o when it comes to Birthdays, I am
THAT MOM. I think they are a rare
and beautiful opportunity to
celebrate a life, raise somebody up, give
appreciation AND have a fabulous party
with cake and presents all at the same
time. And then of course there is the main
reason – an excuse to be creative!
I always go completely over the top
and usually get whispered comments like,
“I wonder what her child's wedding will be
like” and “this is just mad, crazy, and
completely unnecessary”. I carry on
regardless and secretly wonder why most
of my close friends become suspiciously
unavailable about 6 weeks before my
child's birthday. Around this time is the
only time that my husband has major
regrets that he is an engineer and
completely denies any claim he has ever
made that there is not a lot that he cannot
do, achieve, make or fix. Any media
enthusiastically displaying wonderful
amazing party ideas becomes the enemy
in our house as I begin planning. Any good
intentioned helpful person that starts a
sentence with “oh you know what you
could do...” gets immediately interrupted
and quickly put to silence with my
husband's favourite line:
“Any suggestions regarding the
making of birthday décor is subject to
Section 12.5 of the Constitution, which
clearly states that freedom of speech is
unconditionally revoked in terms of
section 78.8 of the Birthday Party Law in
that any ideas regarding the making of
birthday décor shall be deemed to be an
undertaking by the "Suggestor" to bring
said ideas to fruition and shall be binding
and irrevocable”.
66 Craftwise
I have only one like-minded friend who
sees the value in creating magic, beauty,
wonder and excitement for children's
birthdays. After all, there are only just a
few short years before your child would
rather pick fleas off a gorilla than spend
time with you. Yes, it is sadly true. And any
conversation where you tend towards
reminding said child of painful child birth,
sacrifices, sweat, blood, tears, sleepless
nights, meaningless jobs, unfulfilled life
dreams... is simply met with a scornful
“well, I didn't ASK to be born”. You may
remember these words as your own, when
you were that same age. SIGH!
So this year, on Millah's 9th birthday,
everyone was relieved when she decided
she wanted to invite just 10 friends for a 3
night Camp Away. I excitedly began my
usual media research only to be met with
tons of “smors” wordplay and pictures of
pitched tents in backyards. Has no-one
ever had a Camp Out party - “OUT”, in
actual real live camping places? It would
appear that we are the first. And when you
have a wild, salty river, a sky full of stars,
mud and no civilization (other than two
toilets and a roofed area) you realize that
there is not much need for beautifully
designed party tables, hanging décor, an
extravagantly themed entrance, an OTT
unlawfully expensive cake, decorated with
"plastic" icing that nobody likes anyway
and other bits us moms work tirelessly
over to create a magical scene. The magic
is the wild.
I could however get creative with the
invite… And, of course I needed to “brand”
the whole party – which included a Camp
Away banner for all the guests to write on,
midnight feast boxes, a scavenge hunt,
by Sue Human
individual riverside picnic packs and a
certificate for each wild adventurer
(including achievements such as the
muddiest, skillful pranking, best fisher-
person and most expert at getting lost).
The invite box of essential camping
take-alongs promised swimming, fishing,
music, camp fires, midnight feasting, mud
bathing “and a whole bunch more running
wild and general mad crazy hooligan-
eering." What it failed to mention was – an
attack from an angry swarm of hornets as
we rudely invaded their wild space (note
for future camping emergency kit, include
bee, hornet and wasp allergy medication),
wild monkeys, no drinking water on site,
sharing our wild salty river with jellyfish,
catching fish with lice (weird but true) and
the small matter of absent-mindedly
watching 5 children float down the river on
a large tube, all of us looking on dreamily
from the jetty until someone said, “uuuh
guys, they look like they might possibly
need rescuing”. Luckily, we were not that
far from civilization and a passing ski boat
was flagged down to be our hero rescuers
of the day.
Our big party activity was a braai
competition in which two teams had to
make potjie for our dinner (yes, I know
what you are thinking, clever, clever way to
get myself out of cooking and get the kids
excited about cooking). The kids were
surprisingly excited and even more
surprisingly competitive. And what a
beautiful environment in which to cook up
a potjie.
We had a few rules, choices with
ingredients and judges too. They had to
name their "restaurant" and design a dish-
of-the-day poster too. The Birthday Girl's
team won (it would seem that her practice
with dry frying seeds and exploring spices
and recipes in the week preceding the party
was worth the effort). While everyone was
expecting a lot from her as we all know she
loves to cook, what we were not expecting
was the tears and disappointment from her
5 year old cousin when her team lost. She
was beside herself with the reality that “her
Nanna”, being the head judge, did not seal
the first prize for her team. Nanna had a lot
of explaining to do.
The party was the best fun ever! It was
however, still a major amount of effort, with
10 children and 9 adults to feed at a
campsite with no drinking water and
absolutely no kitchen or any useful kitchen
things such as crockery, cutlery, stove,
fridge, etc. Not to mention the Millah's Banner
photographic bunting I do every year for
Millah, to celebrate her past year. But I only
have myself to blame for starting such a
labour intensive scrapbook-memory-
making tradition. As much as I gnash my
teeth throughout the intensely time
consuming process, it is the perfect way of
celebrating a person's year, visually
displaying the memories and the people
that made her year amazing. All of us
gather around, look at the photos, relive
and laugh about time spent together and
make more memories in the process.
And the cake? A communally
constructed super sweet explosion of
sugary ingredients from the "you should
never feed these things to your children"
list, cooked on the braai. And it was eaten
camping communal style too. Just perfect.
With the children's ages varying from 4
The braai competition begins...
to 12, it was heartwarming to see how
everyone embraced "The Wilds". A few of
the older girls were at first horrified that
there was no shower but after the first leap
into the river, I never heard mention of
washing again. It was truly magical.
Especially the bit concerning no computer
screens. Who knew that wild river
swimming, a hammock, mud, sleeping
under the stars, pillow fights, pranking and
tyre tubes could be so enthralling! I even
planned to do enamel painting on camping
mugs and plates, but in those 3 day the kids
were too busy, we never had to entertain
them and they never got bored.

As the invite said: “Living Simple, Simply

Living”. And for me, something else on the
invite is true too, “When I am quiet, I can
hear it calling me. Find Your Happy, Go
Camping.”

Fishing is such fun!

Craftwise 67
 Enamel Painting Fun For Kids
by Sue Human

If you are inclined towards camping, and have kids, you really NEED to do this with them. It
is a great way for family members to take ownership of their crockery and be responsible
for helping with the washing up too. No clean plate = no food.

5. On the plate – brush the stamp in the

REQUIREMENTS same way you did for the cup and leave
for 30 seconds to get tacky. Gently place
Ÿ Craft Enamel Paint (we used Humbrol) the stamp into position on the plate and
Ÿ Assorted paintbrushes apply light pressure. Lift it up gently.
Ÿ Wooden skewer
Ÿ Thinners or Turpentine
Ÿ Enamel cups and plates
Ÿ Craft stamps

4. On the cups: Place the stamp onto

REQUIREMENTS
1. Firstly you need to wipe the mug and
plate clean with a serviette or toilet paper
dipped into thinners or turpentine.
the table, painted side facing up. Position
exactly where you want the print, and roll
the cup along the top of the stamp, firmly
but without sliding. If you smudge, remove
the print with turpentine or thinners and
try again.

2. Paint the rubber stamp lightly but

thoroughly with your choice of paint and a
paintbrush that will fit the size of the
image.

3. Wait for about 30 seconds for the

paint to get tacky. This helps prevent
smudging when you stamp.

68 Craftwise
6. Use the paintbrushes to paint free
hand onto the cups and plates. The cups
are tricky as they are shiny and curved. The
paint is also tricky to work with as it is both
thick and runny at the same time.

When wanting to achieve fine lines and

detail, I found it easier to do a thinner and
lighter layer first, and then come back
when it is dry to do a final solid layer. The
paint also gets sticky quickly when it is
exposed to air.

Mix in a drop or two of thinners or

turpentine to thin it down if necessary. I
found it difficult to gain the control
necessary to do the names with a
paintbrush. We used the pointy bit of a
wooden “sosatie” stick almost as a pencil.
When writing, let the sosatie stick "hit the
ground running", if you simply put the
point down on the cup, it will form a blob
of paint resulting in lines of uneven
thickness.

Craftwise 69
 by Mosaic Arts

We have long admired the beautiful hand-

painted pottery of Ardmore in Kwazulu Natal.
Their vibrant use of colour and exuberant, no-
holds-back decoration is a pleasure to
behold. Using their bold design as a point of
departure we made this baroque shaped
mirror. Here is how we did it.

70 Craftwise
REQUIREMENTS
Ÿ Baroque shaped supawood frame
Ÿ Large central mirror
Ÿ Picture-hanging hook
Ÿ Variety of inserts
Ÿ Mosaic tiles
INSTRUCTIONS
We have these lovely wooden shapes with
the mirror ready-made-up for your
convenience. If you are using your own
shape, stick the mirror onto the wood with
mirror silicone. It is important to use mirror
silicone to prevent your mirror from
tarnishing over a long period of time.
Decide where your inserts will be placed.
Be exuberant and remember to use
colours that compliment each other. Stick
the inserts on using a good sized blob
of silicone behind each insert. We put
millefiori and glass pebbles and nuggets
inside the flowers for a layered look. Stick
these in with a small blob of silicone
taking care that it doesn't squeeze out
underneath.
The border colours must compliment the
inserts. Cut a small border around both
the mirror and the edge of the frame. We
varied the colours as the result is more
interesting and sparkly.
Choose your background colour to
enhance the inserts and make them stand
out. We used a mother-of-pearl mosaic
with a gorgeous luminescence. Cut the
Ÿ Mirror silicone
Ÿ Wood glue
Ÿ Tile cutter
Ÿ Grey grout
background colour using your tile cutter
and sticking the mosaic with wood glue to
the wood. Note how we used flow lines in
the mother-of-pearl background to create
an elegant, finished look.
Before grouting let the mosaic dry for a
few hours. Protect your mirror with a piece
of newspaper stuck with masking tape to
the mirror as you don't want the mirror to
scratch. Dove grey grout is a long standing
favorite for many mosaics where a pastel
look is the desired result. It enhances the
design, where white grout tends to
disperse the design and look amateurish.
Mix your grout to a paste with water. Fill all
the joints between the mosaic pieces using
a squeegee and your fingers to get into the
nooks and crannies between the inserts.
Sprinkle dry grout over and rub down with
newspaper.
An easy cost-effective way to finish the
edge is to mix some grout powder with
wood glue to a thick paste. Smear the
paste on the wooden edge. It dries to the
same colour as the grout and makes the
wood look like cement.
Now don't forget to screw on the hanger at
the back. Make sure it is centered and
that you use screws that wont stick
through the wood and break the mirror.
The result is a stunning fun mirror to
enhance a special corner!
Craftwise 71
CLASSES / COURSES
ART CLAY SILVER
We recommend an introductory
hands-on workshop to get
inspired! Contact Dragon Glass,
011 849 6430 or 082 457 2951
(business hours) or e-mail acs-
sa@artclaysilversa.com for
details of an instructor near you.
[ref: sml8]
Ladybird Crafts - Mosaic,
Decoupage, Paint Effects &
Gilding. Group Workshops &
Weekly Classes in Pta East.
Mosaic with tiles, china, ostrich
shell & smalti. Decoupage
furniture, gild & distress. Under
glass decoupage. Contact Carol
Tait cell 0824565923/
ladybird@mweb.co.za
www.ladybirdcrafts.co.za.
[ref: sml87]
CRAFT / ART SUPPLIES
HANDSPUN WOOL: Specialising
in Angora Rabbit Wool (bunny
wool), and merino Sheep wool,
available in natural and dyed.
Alpaca and mohair occasionally
available. All wool is balanced
2ply, unless specified.
Mail order or visits by
arrangement. Contact Yolande
on cell 0732786125 or visit my
website,
www.angorarabbits.co.za.
[ref: sml103]
GLASSWORK
DRAGON GLASS - suppliers of
all you need for the craft of
Warm Glass. Our range of
instructional videos is recognised
world wide, NOW AVAILABLE
ON DVD! Agents for the full
Thompson Enamel range,
“Vidriarte” glass sheet and
accessory products, and CBS
dichroic coated sheet glass, all
Float compatible. We supply
kilns, and all other tools and
consumables for the craft -
including our superior kiln
wash/mould release! Contact
Stan or Heather (011) 849 6430
or e-mail:
dragon@dragonglass.cc
[ref: sml22]
MISCELLANEOUS
Itz van Allez, your one stop arts
and crafts shop. All under one
roof. We do decoupage blanks,
paper, serviettes, beads,
scrapbooking, pewter, mosaic,
lazer items, polystyrene, mirrors,
feathers, etc etc. We also do
classes and mail orders. Contact
us on Tel:021 911 0962, Fax: 086
5172699 Cell: 082 4524524,
email: surika@mweb.co.za
ONLINE
SHOP:www.itzvanallez.co.za
[ref: sml62]
VIDEOS
DECOUPAGE UNDER GLASS -
AVAILABLE ON DVD
This video titled “Decoupage
Under Glass and Advanced
Background Techniques”, is now
available from Dragon Glass.
Join us in a visual workshop.
Step-by-step instructions on
how to create masterpieces
under glass. Includes
instructions on glue-chipped
glass, and lots more! Contact
Stan or Heather on (011) 849-
6430 or email:
dragon@dragonglass.cc
[ref: sml31]

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 ART & CRAFT

CARDMAKING/RUBBER STAMPING

DECOUPAGE & 3D DECO.

FABRIC PAINTING/ PATT.
SUPPLIERS

STITCH CRAFT/FABRIC
TEDDY BEAR MAKING

MAIL ORDER SERVICE

PAPERCRAFT/MACHÉ
CERAMICS/POTTERY

PARCHMENT CRAFT

REGULAR CLASSES
WOODEN BLANKS
KILNS/FURNACES
CANDLE MAKING

GLASS PAINTING

CRAFT MARKETS
SCRAPBOOKING
LEATHER WORK

STAINED GLASS
PEWTER / SHIM

SILK PAINTING
SOAP MAKING

WARM GLASS
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QUILLING
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MOSAICS
BEADS
ART
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