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Locate 26 in the usual way and curve the new scye, as indicated. The effect is to throw the front part of the forepart forward, as
The under-arm dart, 38, is moved forward about 1¼”. and is is shown by the solid-line contour of the front edge. The dash
terminated at M. 1½” down from the chest line. contour is that of the normal pattern.
The front dart, 39, is placed in very much the same position as It win be seen, too, that the centre line automatically changes. The
that on the normal draft. In this case it is represented as being solid line squared from 22 is the normal one; the dot-dash line
taken right through to the bottom edge—a frequent feature in passing from 22 through 30 is the new centre line, 30 having been
this style, especially when it is desired to keep the edge close. The dropped to the “drape” waist line.
best way of doing this is to slit the pattern up from the bottom
to P, about 1” from 24, and to open out in the manner indicated
by the dot-dash lines. The solid lines between these show the
adjustment of the dart for seaming. (Fuller description of this
pattern manipulation will be given later.)
DIAGRAM 17.
64 Gentlemen’s Garments
Pattern Manipulation
Diagram 18
Section A Section B
Section A Section B
Point 1 is located about 1½” back from the neck point. Cut the pattern through from 1 to 2, as shown. (The rear section
Point 2 is about 9” from the bottom of side-seam. will remain as cut.)
Draw a line from 1 to 2. On the front section, cut along the pocket mouth (already marked)
The pattern is now cut; up along the line from 2 to 1. from 3 to 4; then cut up from 4 to E, the latter point, in this case,
being ¾” back from the neck point. The section is now in two
Now move the front part forward at the bottom (placing the finger
pieces.
at 1) until point 2 comes to point 3—1” in this case.
With the finger at E, move the rear piece from 4 to 5 and from 3 to 6.
The dot-dash lines show what happens when this is done. The
opening at 2–3 may be increased or decreased according to taste. This movement will cause 1 to pass up to 7 and will produce the
outline indicated by the dot-dash lines.
Now mark the standard front dart, making its suppression about
the same amount as shown on earlier drafts, as at 4 and 5. The front dart is now suppressed in the usual way, as at 8. The
dotted lines are those in which the dart will be cut, seams having
Advance ¼” at 2 and 3 and extend the dart down, as indicated by
been allowed so that the two edges of pocket mouth are the same
the solid lines.
length after the dart has been sewn up.
It will be seen that the across-chest contour has been increased,
This operation is done first, when the coat is being made. The
the front section of the divided forepart having come forward at
rear section of the forepart is then sewn on to the front. Balance
the lapel crease line and the front edge; the solid line contour at
marks should be put in at A and B, for the contour of 7–6 must be
gorge, lapel point, and right down the front being the new outline
exactly the same as that of 1–9; below the pocket mouth 3–2 on
of the forepart.
the front section will sew to 9–2 on the rear section.
If it is not desired to open the bottom of dart as much as is shown
Again, a certain amount of additional chest contour has been
in this diagram, the front portion can be drawn in the dotted line.
produced; at the same time, the bottom edge has been shortened.
Note: The pocket mouth is shown as it will be marked after the The latter effect is often asked for as a style feature.
extended dart seam has been sewn up.
DIAGRAM 18.