Professional Documents
Culture Documents
A Different
Kind Of Stardom
Profile by Shaun Wallbank
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Clearly big waves can present high stress and potential catastrophe, although resilient surfers are good at creating success in these high-risk situations, can manage the stress well, recover quickly Resilience may be defined as the positive capacity to deal with stress and catastrophe. Resilient individuals have high ability to create good outcomes regardless of risk, demonstrate competence under
from intense wipe-outs and mindfully utilise heavy ocean experiences for ongoing enhancement of their big-wave riding performance. stress, recover well from trauma and use challenges for personal growth, thus ensuring better adaptation and management of future hardships.
“I’m frothing on this joint, the wave goes seriously dry on so many
waves. I reckon the one of Jimmy is epic, it’d be good to see him get
rewarded with some shots. He goes so hard, probably the hardest out
of all the Tassie lads and really hasn’t had the recognition he deserves.”
- Email from photographer Stu Gibson in May, accompanying this shot
from a newly surfed Tassie slab.
Around the time James realised that on went out of his way to get his boys stepping up came at just the time it out of surfing I had to make it work so many more factors these days.” gave him techniques on everything There was also one other, unex- into the mix at that time, but Sarah
surfing could possibly be his lifeline, in the water. “I remember Dad didn’t was most needed. “If I could pinpoint by the time I was 25.” James focused During this period of self-discovery from how to deal with feeling self- pected but cheerier, hurdle to has always supported what I do, and
his father vaulted back into action. have much money, but he made the moment where the wheels were his attention on gathering as much James began to appreciate that the conscious to being down about overcome. “Well, yeah, my time frame helped me through tough times. She’s
“Mum’s sickness was a blessing in sure we had a roof over our heads,” set in motion for me becoming a pro media attention as possible and soon lack of direction and instability he things not turning out as planned. It’s did get pushed back a year,” laughs a pillar of strength.”
disguise,” says Hollmer-Cross. “Dad recounts James with pride. “He even surfer, that was it.” learnt his talent and courage alone had encountered in his younger funny to think that a man who rides a happy Hollmer-Cross. James got Harry was born in January
realised the severity of the situation took us to Indonesia once.” His mother, As modern technology brought the were not going to get him to the level years were having a profound effect waves that require making split- together with his girlfriend, Sarah 2004, and James now had all the
and did everything he could to look although sick, realised that James’ sixth State closer to the mainland, he dreamt of. “I realised I had the on his personal skills. “I had to second decisions so as to avoid lethal Hawson, and after a whirlwind romance motivation he needed to chase his
after Tyler and me, including taking surfing was his ticket and got behind James was one of the first Taswegian capacity to become a pro surfer, but work really hard to communicate consequences could be anxious a bub was on its way. “There was three dream career. “I was young, but I had
us surfing.” Hollmer-Cross senior him 100 percent. “She was really ill, surfers to grab the opportunities I had to go above and beyond to get and trust people,” he says. With about whether a photo of it ends up months of passion before we found out the responsibilities of being a father
recognised that his sons had a passion but I knew all she wanted was for me presented by the balls. “I set myself noticed by people in the right places. encouragement from his parents on a magazine cover, but that’s what Sarah was pregnant. It was really hard and partner and wasn’t going to blow
for wave riding and from that moment was to make it,” says James. Mike’s a goal. If I was going to make a living It’s not just about the talent, there are James talked to a lot of people, who makes James different. to imagine throwing another person it completely.”
Research on resilience in children identifies good cognitive functioning in terms of self-regulation and intelligence, and positive relationships with competent adults as “protective factors” in situations The core mentality of big-wave riders is simple – they want it and they love it, and so they GO! To give a little more detail, in 2000 I conducted research with more than 30 big-wave riders and found they
of adversity. Living the surfing life and committing to the extreme pursuit of big-wave riding presents abundant opportunity to evolve the mind and cultivate meaningful relationships with family, the local shared a natural thrill-seeking, confident and goal-oriented personality, a high level of mental strength and control, a calm, confident and committed mindset in the moment when charging big waves, a
surfing community and the natural energy of the ocean. The positive feelings of freedom, exhilaration and joy experienced from regular wave riding also serve to cultivate a happy, resilient human being. deep desire to ride big waves and an intimate, personally meaningful relationship with the ocean.
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There’s no denying that a certain and that’s when I felt things were doing some other trips, maybe even the start. No matter what happens,
big wave under a certain cliff gave really progressing,” he says. “I’d been some contests.” Surely not the WQS? I want my family to be set up.”
James and his surfing compadres a surfing for Rip Curl for a few years, “Nah, no chance, but I just got back James and Sarah are now engaged.
leg up into the surfing industry. As but that moment validated their faith; from the Rip Curl Padang Padang Six-year-old Harry is riding waves
the surf world was consumed by slab they could see the value in having me Invitational in Bali and one day I’d at Park Beach and the couple are
fever, James, Tyler and lunatic mates onboard.” As Rip Curl’s investment love to do the trials at Chopes. If planning to add another member
including Marti Paradisis and Dustin in James began to reap dividends they ever invite me,” he laughs, with to the hyphen clan. He might not be
Hollick followed the bootie steps of more support was forthcoming. More a “hint hint, nudge nudge” glint in the typical nine-to-five family man,
Shipstern’s godfather Andy Campbell possibilities opened up, and as with his eye. but like his surfing, he’s giving it
into the surf world’s conscience. his surfing, James dived straight When discussing the early days everything he’s got.
You've got to hand it to them, if in. “Being nominated for awards is James doesn’t play down the hard James has made the most of
taking off on a wave at Shipstern great,” says James, “but finding new times. Without the financial support what he’s got, survived some hard
is the difference between celebrity waves is just as important to me.” With of his girlfriend, Sarah, he knows knocks and has been supported by
and hermitism, then a life of solitude continued support from his sponsors he wouldn’t have realised his goals. good people around him. He reckons
looks pretty damn attractive. James was realising his goals and, “I owe her a lot,” he says, “and my that’s what makes life challenging
In 2009 the hours spent floating slowly, his dreams. brother, Tyler, and parents too, and worth living. These days when he
in cold, dark water were starting to Dancing around watery graves is without them I’d be nowhere.” It’s gets driven deep down the mineshaft
pay off and James was spat on to still on the agenda these days, but clear that as James’ ambitions are of a collapsed slab, James is more
the lunatic-riddled big-wave stage. James is looking to branch out. “I’ll realised he won’t soon forget the relaxed than anyone. He knows if you
“I came third in the Ride Of The Year always love surfing the big stuff at people who helped him along the hang on long enough, you’ll eventually
section at the Billabong XXL Awards home,” he says, “but I wouldn’t mind way. “They’ve been my pillars from come back to the surface.
In terms of performance mindset, elite big-wave riders simply accept the risks, prepare well for the demands of the ocean and stay clearly focused on what they want – the big drop or massive barrel
– rather than what they don’t want.
And though extreme ocean conditions can present high stress and potential for catastrophe, for big-wave riders this place is viewed as a wonderful sanctuary that nurtures the soul and cultivates
many positive qualities for happiness and success in surfing and in wider life.
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