ACETATE FIBERS

Word ‘Acetate’ derived from

Acet  Acetic acid

Ate  Chemical salt

hence

Acetate  Salt of acetic acid

CELLULOSE ACETATE

Compound of cellulose and acetic acid

 Cellulose Acetate  54 – 55 % combined acetic acid

 Cellulose Triacetate  60 % combined acetic acid

ACETATE POLYMER

 These are polymers of whose –OH have been acetylated

 Cellulose triacetate produced first so known as primary acetate
 Primary acetate is then hydrolyzed to produce cellulose acetate known as secondary acetate

Po ACETATE

 40% crystalline
 60% amorphous

So ACETATE

 60% crystalline
 40% amorphous

HISTORY

 First developed in ENGLAND during world war I by Henri and Camille Dreyfus
 Commercial production was begun in US in 1924 under the trade mark of CELANESE

ACETYLATION OF CELLULOSE

 Cotton linters or wood chips are converted into sheets of pure cellulose
 Cellulose is steeped in glacial acetic acid under a controlled temperatures for a period of time
 Then it is mixed with acetic anhydride. A small amount of sulfuric acid is added as a catalyst
 This dope is mixed with excess water, causing the cellulose acetate white flakes to be precipitate
  These flakes are then dissolved in acetone and filtered several times to remove impurities
 This result pure white spinning solution
 If delustered yarn is to produce small amount of titanium dioxide is added
 Spinning solution is extruded in column of warm air through spinneret and solvent recovered
 Filaments are stretched and wound onto beams, cones, or bobbins ready for use
 This technique of spinning is called DRY SPINNING

PHYSICAL FORMS OF ACETATE

 Filament yarn
o Monofilament yarn
o Multifilament yarn
 Textured yarn
 Spun yarn(size of filaments are reduced in 1 – 6 inches)

TRADEMARKS OF ACETATE FIBERS

TRADE MARK MANUFACTURER TYPE

Avtex acetate Avtex fibers Inc. Multifilament
Celanese acetate Celanese fibers marketing Co. Multifilament , Staple, Tow
Chromspun Eastmen chemical products Inc Multifilament
Estron Eastmen chemical products Inc Multifilament
Estron SIR Eastmen chemical products Inc Multifilament

CAHRACTERISTICS

 Shrink resistant
 Wrinkle resistant
 Easily washable
 Generally washable at high temperatures
 Maintains creases and pleats well
 Particularly effective in clothing where crease or pleat retention is important, such as skirts
and dresses.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

 Handle
o Soft
o Smooth
 o Crisp and resilient
 Comfort
o Breatheable
o Dries quickly
o No static cling
 Drape
o Linings move with the body linings conform to the garment
 Luster
o Light reflection creates a signature appearance
 Performance
o Colorfast to perspiration staining
o Colorfast to dry cleaning
o Air and vapor permeable
 Tenacity
o Weak fiber with breaking tenacity of 1.2 to 1.4 g/denier
o Rapidly loses strength when wet
 Abrasion
o Poor abrasion resistance
 Heat retention
o Poor thermal retention
 Heat setting
o Triacetate softens on heating
o Sticking and glazing can occur during ironing at temperatures above 180 oC
o Show more resistant to glazing after heat setting at high melting point at 300 oC

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES

 Effect of acid
o Resistant to weak acid
o Dissolved in strong acid including glacial acetic acid even at low temperatures

 Effect of alkali
o Cellulose acetate is saponified by the action of alkali
o Triacetate is more resistant to alkali. Only mild surface saponification occurs with sosium
hydroxide at elevated temperatures.
o Delustring occurs at temperatures above 85oC

 Effect of solvent
o These fibers are swollen by certain chemicals. This technique is used in carrier dyeing
o Tetrachloroethylene solvent is used for dry cleaning purposes.
 PRE-TREATMENT

 Scouring/ Desizing
 S- finish
 Bleaching
 Heat setting

SCOURING

 1 – 2 ml/L detergents at 60oC – 80oC are sufficient

 Anionic detergents are preferred
 pH must not exceed 9.5

S- FINISH

 Partially saponify the fiber to reduce acetyl value from 62% to 59%
 Carried out with 3 – 6 g/L sod.hydroxide at 80oC – 85oC for 60 – 90 min depending on machinery
type and liquor ratio
 Advantages
o Improved soil resistance
o Improved resistance to glazing
o Increased resistance to gas fume fading
o Increased fastness to wet and dry rubbing

BLEACHING

 Historically sodium chlorite applied at 75 – 85 oC at pH 4 with oxalic or formic acid. This type of
bleaching is followed by anti chlor treatment.
 Hydrogen peroxide gives low degree of whitness specially in blends with natural fibers.
o pH should not exceed 10
o bleach activator may be added to give sufficient whitness
 TAED(tetra acetylethylenediamine)
 SNOBS(sodium nonanoyloxybenzenesulphonate)

HEAT SETTING

 Dry heat –setting is most common method using hot air as heat transfer medium at stenters
 Air flow must be balanced
 Wide width must be supported to avoid snagging and distortion
o Occurs rapidly in range 210oC – 220oC
o Alowly in range of180oC – 210oC
DYEING

PARAMTERS TO CONTROLL DYEING

 Addition of chemicals such as alkali ,acid or electrolyte

 Time
 Temperature

Most important parameters to control dyeing is TEMPERATURE.

DYE BATH ADDITIVES

Dispersing agent

 To assist in dye size reduction

 To maintain uniform dispersion during dyeing
 Although dispersing agent is grinded with disperse dye yet additional dispersing agent is added as
a wise precaution.

Leveling agent

 Increased migration
 Increased leveling
 Increased fiber penetration
 Less tendency of listing and ending in jigger machine

Carrier

 Preferably used for triacetate fibers.

 Use for dark to medium shades with disperse dye
 Improved penetration of dye
 Improved wet fastness
 Diethyl phthalate mostly recommended

CLASSES OF DISPERSE DYE

1.Low Energy(E type)

 These dyes have low molecular weight ,low polarity , high dyeing rate and low
sublimation fastness.
2.Medium Energy(SE type)

 These dyes have moderate molecular weight, moderate polarity,moderate dyeing rate and
moderate sublimation fastness.

3.High Energy(S type)

 These dyes have high molecular weight ,high polarity , low dyeing rate and high
sublimation.

DYE – FIBER INTERACTION

The dye-fibre affinity is the result of different types of interactions:

 Hydrogen bonds
 Dipole-dipole interactions
 Van der Waals forces

Hydrogen bonds

Disperse dyes have hydrogen atoms in their molecule, which are capable of forming hydrogen bonds with
oxygen and nitrogen atoms on the fiber.

Dipole-dipole interactions

Dipole-dipole interactions result from the asymmetrical structure of the dye molecules, which makes
possible electrostatic interactions between dipoles on the dye molecules and polarized bonds on the fiber.

Van der Waals forces

Van der Waals forces take effect when the molecules of the fibre and colourant are aligned and close to
each other. These forces are very important in polyester fibres.

ACETATE PRODUCTS TO BE DYE

 Loose fiber/stock
 Yarn
 Fabric
o Dyeing on jigger
o Dyeing winch
o Dyeing on jet

LOOSE FIBER/STOCK DYEING

 Liquor is circulated for a short time under ambient temperature, then drained
  Dye bath is set at 40oC with dispersing agent and pH 5 – 6 with acetic acid or buffer
 Disperse dye(pre dispersed) is added
 Temperature is raised to
o 85oC for acetate
o 98oC for triacetate
o 110oC in case of pressurized machine
 Liquor flow is from in to out throughout the dyeing process
 Temperature is maintained atleast for 1 hour
 Dyebath then drained
 Rinse cold
 Rinse warm at 40oC
 Heavy shade are soaped or mild reduction cleare
o 2 g/L sod.hydrosulphite
o 2 g/L sod carbonate
o Detergent (non ionic)
o Temperature 40oC for acetate and 55oC for triacetate
 Neutralizing and washing

YARN DYEING

 Wound on a perforated cone

 Winding density is kept low
 Same conditions are given as in case of loose fiber/stock

FABRIC DYEING ON JIGGER

 Half of dispersed and sieved dye is added

 pH is adjusted to 5 – 6
 Temperature is raised
 At dyeing temperature rest of the half dye is added
 Appropriate time is given depending on shade depth
 Dyebath is drained
 Rinsing through warm water

PROBLEMS IN JIG DYEING

 Tension under hot, wet conditions lead to fabric extension
 Open jiggers leads to cooling of fabric rolls
o Reduced dyeing rate
o Specially at selvedges
 Ending is more common

REMEDIES
  Use saturated steam
 Used high pressure jigger or close lid jigger

FABRIC DYEING ON WINCH

 Dyebath is set at 40oC and pH 5 – 6 with suitable dispersing agent

 Fabric lubricant and anti crease agents must be added
 Circulation time for 10 min are given
 Dispersed and sieved dye is added
 Temperature is raised
o to 85oC for acetate
o to boil for acetate
 Temperature must be raised at rate of 1oC /min
 Appropriate dyeing time is given depending on shade depth (30 – 60 min)
 Dyeing bath then cooled at rate of 2oC / min at 55oC and then drained
 Rinsing followed by reduction clearing

SPAECAIL CARE IN WINCH DYEING

 Fabric must not prone to rope creasing or formation of ‘crack mark’

 Care must be taken to avoid crease formation
 Fabrics must be pre relaxed to dyeing

FABRIC DYEING ON JET

 Same procedure as followed in winch dyeing but soft gentle action must be given in jet

SPECAILITY

 Temperature can be raised to130oC

 Dyeing can be carried without carrier
 Wide range of dyestuff can be used
FASTNESS PROPERTIES

 Wet fastness
o Poor to moderate

 Light fastness
o Moderate to good
o Catalytic fading
 Individual dye show good light fastness but combination shade show poor light
fastness
o Anomalous fading
 In combination shade fading of one dye is catalyzed by other dye
 Tetra substituted anthraquinone derivatives most frequently act as activator
 Gas fume fading
o Also known as abnormal fading
o Fading on long term storage
o Anthraquinone based dye show this type of fading
o To prevent this gas fading inhibitor is used, mostly based on diphenylacetamide.